# Pathfinder 17t restoration



## FishNCoach (Jul 19, 2016)

Greetings Microskiff fans! I've just fully restored my 1998 Maverick Pathfinder17t. I bought the boat in Florida and took it home to South Texas. I used the boat with minor upgrades for 4 years and decided to give it a facelift when the stringers came loose , as they were known for. I could hear a knock when I hit chop. So I found a local fiberglass guy who quoted a good price for the repair and to flip it and restore/paint the hull. I didn't want to pull the cap be a use it was too labor intensive so I had him cut the floor to do the stringers. I stripped the boat myself to cut cost and to assure everything would be reinstalled with attention to detail. When the fiberglass/hull job was finished, the work began! I had Safeflor installed in the bottom deck. I'm so glad I did! It took me about two weeks of work to finish the rigging task. I rewired everything with heat shrink connections, all new stainless screws and bolts, new rub rail, latches, gauges, switches, fuse boxes, fuel lines and other detailed work. I also added a manual jack plate. I felt the motor could be raised but didn't want to drop $800 on a hydraulic unit. It works great and easy to adjust. I have other goodies I plan to add in the future ( low profile tower, new trolling motor, possible repower, and a power pole ) but the boat rides and looks 100% better! I have an hds5 Lowrance unit with a sonic hub and Bluetooth, a stickpin anchor, stainless three rod holder, stainless drink holders on the console, and a keel shield. I've included photos of the task.( I have more.. Would only let me post 10! Lol) I'll be happy to answer any questions and if you have any suggestions , they would greatly be appreciated.


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## JMZ400 (Aug 30, 2015)

Excellent job on this boat. Thanks for creating this thread. I know if I have to ever tackle this job your photos and experience with be called upon


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## FishNCoach (Jul 19, 2016)

Here are additional pics


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## zthomas (Jan 14, 2014)

Yep, outstanding.

Question: It looks like you don't have the black, screwed-on keel piece that most 17Ts seem to have. Was it on there, and then you removed it and covered the holes? I'd like to get rid of mine, mainly because I don't care for having 30 holes all through the bottom of the boat, but I'm not sure how it would affect turning, which is already kind of "exciting" at speed. If you had it and then removed it, did you notice much change in performance?


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## FishNCoach (Jul 19, 2016)

I was taking on water through those screws and my bilge was constantly turning on( before the rebuild ) I filled the hull with water to find out where exactly the problem was and it was the screws .. The constant years of pounding loosened them.. I tried resealing them but to no avail so I pulled it off and had it fiberglassed .. I think the purpose of that thing was for tracking when you poled the boat. But I have not noticed anything different in performance .. The boat would have been better if they actually put a keel in the hull design .. Like the Hewes Tailfisher.. That was a good design/upgrade to that hull. I also glassed the self drain holes on the side .. Was taking water in there also.. Since the boat is in two pieces, those brass plugs flex and eventually wear out. So I plugged them and put two small drain holes in the back bottom of the floor and the water drains to the hull and out the bilge pump if needed. I rarely get water inside when out fishing. The only time I get water is when I wash it and I just open the drain plugs and let it flow out... I get zero water in my hull now.. Hope this helps! Keep the questions coming .. Since I literally rebuilt this boat myself, I know every nook and cranny about it ! Lol


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## zthomas (Jan 14, 2014)

Very interesting.

I pulled mine off and quickly found that most of the screw holes went all the way through into the bilge. Only a few appeared to be actually leaking though.

I bought all new fasteners and let everything dry in the garage for a week or so, then packed every hole with 4200, filled the shallow "channel" on top of the keel piece with 4200, and re-installed.

That was a messy, unpleasant SOB of a job, on my back on the garage floor with that crap everywhere. So far though, it at least seems to be dry and solid.

If I discover more leaking, though, that's good to know that it doesn't affect performance too much. I've actually been toying with the idea of trying to add some little vertical stabilizers along the outboard edges of my trim tabs to try and keep the stern from sliding quite so much.

On the overboard drains, mine were glassed over when I got the boat, but I've been planning to put them back in. I just don't like the idea of being completely dependent on bilge pumps to keep the boat from sinking. I understand they're a little below waterline, and don't mind keeping them plugged most of the time. But I'm not wild about the idea of water leaking between the hull and liner. I guess maybe I'll just plan to replace them when they start leaking.


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## FishNCoach (Jul 19, 2016)

I agree but I had to weigh out the options.. Take water in the hull or leave the self bail drains should the boat get swamped.. I generally fish in very shallow water and as stated previously, I've never really had to drain water through those plugs other than washing .. I know there is a what if factor .. But I'll play the odds. I do have a question if anyone can answer... My engine (1998 Yamaha C60) runs/ starts great. All 3 cylinders are at 110. But occasionally at high rpms, say 4900-5200 the engine bogs down. I back off the throttle and then go and it runs fine. I have throughly cleaned the carbs, replaced fuel filter, plugs and water separator yearly, and adjusted the carbs.. Still does it. 
My next task will be replacing the thermostat... But can anyone give me and answer? Do I just bite the bullet and take it in? Any suggestions will be appreciated ! Thanks guys!


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## Rusty60 (Aug 5, 2016)

When you say "bog's down", do you mean you lose power? If so, it sounds like a fuel starvation issue and you may need to replace your anti-siphon valve at the tank.

I have a 17T and a Yamaha 60 and had a similar issue when I first bought it back in 2009.


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## FishNCoach (Jul 19, 2016)

Rusty60 said:


> When you say "bog's down", do you mean you lose power? If so, it sounds like a fuel starvation issue and you may need to replace your anti-siphon valve at the tank.
> 
> I have a 17T and a Yamaha 60 and had a similar issue when I first bought it back in 2009.


Great! Where is the anti siphon valve ?


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## Rusty60 (Aug 5, 2016)

http://www.microskiff.com/threads/pathfinder-17t-fuel-starvation.2351/

Try this link, should give you some verbal and image references for the swap out. Hope this helps.


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## hawkman (May 19, 2018)

As a new boat owner - of a 1998 17T - I'm scared to find out if I need this type of work. I've only had it out once so far for a quick run. I do have a leak it seems. After being on the water for only 10 minutes or so, there is water in the bilge - and I have not pumps. However, after 30 minutes, there seems to be no more than before.

FishNCoach - how do you wire that stern nav light? I think I'd rather go that option than have a pole light to take in or out.

Also - my boat only has one rod holder on each side - and the span from there to the holes in the bow platform area are just to great to safely keep a 6.5 to 7-foot spinning rod secure. Also, the bottom 'hook' is just too low for a spinning reel anyway.

Cheers.


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## Guest (May 19, 2018)

Anti siphon valve, pulling air in system, weak fuel pump, colapsing fuel line, does the c60 have a quik connect fuel line? 


FishNCoach said:


> I agree but I had to weigh out the options.. Take water in the hull or leave the self bail drains should the boat get swamped.. I generally fish in very shallow water and as stated previously, I've never really had to drain water through those plugs other than washing .. I know there is a what if factor .. But I'll play the odds. I do have a question if anyone can answer... My engine (1998 Yamaha C60) runs/ starts great. All 3 cylinders are at 110. But occasionally at high rpms, say 4900-5200 the engine bogs down. I back off the throttle and then go and it runs fine. I have throughly cleaned the carbs, replaced fuel filter, plugs and water separator yearly, and adjusted the carbs.. Still does it.
> My next task will be replacing the thermostat... But can anyone give me and answer? Do I just bite the bullet and take it in? Any suggestions will be appreciated ! Thanks guys!


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## Rusty60 (Aug 5, 2016)

hawkman said:


> As a new boat owner - of a 1998 17T - I'm scared to find out if I need this type of work. I've only had it out once so far for a quick run. I do have a leak it seems. After being on the water for only 10 minutes or so, there is water in the bilge - and I have not pumps. However, after 30 minutes, there seems to be no more than
> Cheers.


That sounds pretty typically for those models. Your “leak” will most likely be the seam below the rub rail where the cap meets the hull. It’s amplified when you trim the engine up and the rooster tail pushes water against that seam at the transom mini sponsons.

Just keep a silicon reseal it in your pm schedule about every few years.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Rusty60 said:


> That sounds pretty typically for those models. Your “leak” will most likely be the seam below the rub rail where the cap meets the hull. It’s amplified when you trim the engine up and the rooster tail pushes water against that seam at the transom mini sponsons.
> 
> Just keep a silicon reseal it in your pm schedule about every few years.


I’d use 3M 5200 or 4200 on the cap to hull joint behind the rubrail and any big voids around the transom. Make sure it’s sealed 100% before you screw the rubrail back on. My Maverick had the same issue, it’s a known issue with all those hulls from that builder.


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