# Tiller extension build



## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

Well it finally happened. The tiller extension I built over 6 years ago has met it's end. I tried to drive out of the garage with it tilted up and.....Snap!

So I gotta build another one. Now this isn't the best one out there, as there are plenty of nice ones available, but for what it is is worked great.

So I grabbed some more PVC. 1.5" a coupler, reducer, 1" and a cap.









The Yamaha tiller is tapered, so a straight pipe won't fit well. I cut a slot first in the 1.5".









Then use a heat gun to soften it enough so I can form it better to the handle. It looks subtle, but makes a huge difference in function.









Assembled 









A little sanding and a coat or 3 of rustoleum hammer coat.









When she is dry I'll wrap the handle in some grip tape and clamp it on with a few SS hose clamps.


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## Rollbar (Oct 20, 2016)

A dowel in the handle will help the flex if needed.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

the part that goes on the handle looks really thin, is that even schedule 40? A lot of things will work fine until they're stressed. Like hitting something in the water at speed and then if it breaks you are going to flip over when the motor snaps over to one side in an instant. Don't risk yourself or others to save a few bucks.


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## Zaraspook (Aug 3, 2017)

For $25 you can get a Minkota extension handle on Amazon with free shipping. They are supposed to fit any outboard. They provide 17-25 inches of extension.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

No the base is not sch 40, it won't fit over the handle, but believe me it is more then strong enough. I have been beating the hell out of this thing for years with no sign of stress or wear. When it broke after driving out of the garage it was flexed far beyond what I thought it could take. I caught it just in time after hearing it hit, but putting the truck in reverse was enough rock to finish it off.

I have hit more oyster bars, sand bars, logs..... then I care to admit. Recently lost a prop to an object strike, but it has very little effect on the tiller. I always wear my kill switch just in case though

Do not, I repeat, do not buy the MK tiller handle. It's junk, I broke 2 before building my own. I would trust mine 100 times over, but if you are concerned buy a tuff-tiller or tills pillar. For the $10 I have invested I'm satisfied.


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## trekker (Sep 19, 2015)

Zaraspook said:


> For $25 you can get a Minkota extension handle on Amazon with free shipping. They are supposed to fit any outboard. They provide 17-25 inches of extension.


They suck. I bought one......... it sits on my garage floor wedged behind my little kids bike.


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## Zaraspook (Aug 3, 2017)

trekker said:


> They suck. I bought one......... it sits on my garage floor wedged behind my little kids bike.


Thanks for the heads up. I just ordered one. I will check it out. If it doesn't look good I will send it back. I might have to fork out the money for a carbon marine extension.


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## Rollbar (Oct 20, 2016)

I have one on my trolling motor and that is about it for that handle. Not safe IMHO for a outboard/higher HP.


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## shiprock8 (Sep 23, 2013)

Thanks for the heads up on the MK extension. I will look for other solutions. Anyone out there find one that works? I have a Carbon Marine extension on my skiff but I was trying to cheap out on the Solo.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

Tuff-tiller. Anytide makes them.

Tuff-tiller.com


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

firecat1981 said:


> Well it finally happened. The tiller extension I built over 6 years ago has met it's end. I tried to drive out of the garage with it tilted up and.....Snap!
> 
> So I gotta build another one. Now this isn't the best one out there, as there are plenty of nice ones available, but for what it is is worked great.
> 
> ...


I have the same concept on my 25hp 2stroke yamaha. The only thing I did different was to cut 3 slits in the bigger pvc to fit the taper (and used sch40) evenly spaced out and drilled holes in the end of the slit to prevent the cut from expanding, instead of the one big slit like yours. I can take a photo later if you are interested...


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

I tried cutting 2 slots and 4 slots in the sch 40 but it didn't fit like I wanted. I think the handle on the 4 stroke is fatter and more tapered then the 2-stroke. I felt the extra slots added more flex and twist when I tried to form them over. After playing a bit I settled on the thinner pvc and have been happy with its strength. 
Post up anyway, I'm sure someone can use the info.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

that is irrigation pipe, it will fold without effort and you weakened it a lot further with that big slot. But its your ass and the asses of others you take out and not mine so I've said my piece.

Devrep out.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

devrep said:


> that is irrigation pipe, it will fold without effort and you weakened it a lot further with that big slot. But its your ass and the asses of others you take out and not mine so I've said my piece
> 
> Devrep out.


I know exactly what it is, and I also know, and proved, how much abuse it can take. You are very much wrong about it folding and the weakening as the slotted section is fitted around the tiller and secured as a unit making it the stronger part of the extension. It actually broke at the coupling on the schedule 40 side that was after being flexed several feet.
It's not for you, I get it, but don't for a minute think I do anything without testing first. My skiff is more then safe as are the people on it.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

I have 3 slits as thick as my table saw's blade (~1/8") shaped in a Y if looking at the PVC from the open end. And each slit got a drill bit just barely bigger than the slit, 2 SS hose clamps, and then wrapped with a small piece of yoga mat and black gaffers tape (to stop the clamps from scratching up my deck when motor is tilted up).


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