# Foreman prop or cavitation plate?



## jkschwab1 (May 28, 2020)

Just got a used east cape fury with 60HP zuke that is awesome. Running it in dulac Louisiana which has lots of shallow redfish ponds. On low tide or north wind I need to be able to get up and run a few inches skinnier I have found. Adding atlas micro jack plate which will help. I talked with Jack foreman yesterday then with the folks at Shaw wing. Adding both would likely be optimal. If you had to pick one first which would it be for intended purpose? Thanks in advance.


----------



## RJTaylor (Oct 4, 2017)

In your situation, the plate would be my first addition. Keeping water around the LU seems more important at this point.


----------



## Todd Thibodeaux (Mar 31, 2020)

I would call Trans boats in Palacious Texas there cav plate is much nicer. I’ve run both. They also colormatch as well.


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

For your reading pleasure. Super clean install on a Suzuki 60 on post #10









TEXAS NON-Tunnel skiffs running Cavitation Plates


So I just wanted to see a couple skiffs currently running cavitation plates. I have heard mixed reviews about this and some "boat shops" refer me to it and others advise to keep away if not running a tunnel. I know what the plate is for and I have had tunnel bay boats with them, so I am just...




www.microskiff.com


----------



## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Tran plate and Foreman prop. Jack recommended both because they work in concert with each other.


----------



## scissorhands (Apr 8, 2012)

I would add the JP and a prop first. See what it does and then add the can plate if needed.


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Here is the Trans Plate on my old Glades X Tunnel. We were in deep water here and you can still see that it is "full" of water.


----------



## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Some people will disregard my recommendations even though they asked for them! I don’t know what I’m talking about.


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Yep. People are hesitant to drill holes in their motors. Not me. Measure twice, drill once. If you're really worried about, the any good aluminum welder could fill them back in later. Like it never happened.


----------



## RJTaylor (Oct 4, 2017)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Some people will disregard my recommendations even though they asked for them! I don’t know what I’m talking about.



How well does it shed floating grass, Smack? I'm not talking about hitting a mat, but on a long run. My rig came with a shallow blaster on it, but I had to remove it because the turtle and spartina grass was wedging under the forward lip, and killing my intake flow.


----------



## jkschwab1 (May 28, 2020)

thx for info. will measure prop and distance b/w sponsons with jack plate in place(going on this week) then call trans sport back. will order foreman prop for sure; may do both at once.

only other thing to consider is intake screens, which some suggest. we run in all mud; pretty much no sand. not unusual for motor to pee dark muddy water underway then clear as approach adequate water. any opinion on that? thx.


----------



## jay.bush1434 (Dec 27, 2014)

Jackplate and Foreman prop. 3 of my friends are running Furys with Zuke 60's and the Foreman prop. That prop is dialed in 100% for the Fury and the EVOx. They all have jackplates FYI. I have that prop and engine on my EVOx.


----------



## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

RJTaylor said:


> How well does it shed floating grass, Smack? I'm not talking about hitting a mat, but on a long run. My rig came with a shallow blaster on it, but I had to remove it because the turtle and spartina grass was wedging under the forward lip, and killing my intake flow.


If you’re getting grass in there you need to jack it up higher!


----------



## Todd Thibodeaux (Mar 31, 2020)

This is my set up. This is where it runs.doesn’t hurt the turtle grass and never overheats. Could t do it without zephyr low water pickup ,foreman prop an Tran cavitation plate.


----------



## Bruce J (Mar 4, 2018)

Jack also recommends the NewWater cav plate, which I put on my boat. It is expensive at $500 (as I recall), but it comes gelcoated and pre-cut for your








motor. I really like that you don’t drill into the motor‘s plate to mount it, as with some cav plates.


----------



## jpipes (May 6, 2012)

I have a foreman prop on my Fury with a 90, and I am adding a permatrim to see if it helps any with holeshot. Also going to give a powertech cff4 a go.


----------



## CKEAT (Aug 26, 2015)

@Smackdaddy53 low water pick up cures the grass clogging the intakes. I had this problem and is why I sold the last skiff and moving to a tunnel, compression plate, cupped prop and low water pick up from smack.

Hard to solve all the skinny water issues but I think this set up does it.


----------



## Capt.Ron (Mar 5, 2014)

You don’t need either one.


----------



## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Capt.Ron said:


> You don’t need either one.


----------



## CKEAT (Aug 26, 2015)

Capt.Ron said:


> You don’t need either one.


Not for south LA, not same game


----------



## CKEAT (Aug 26, 2015)

But he asked so we obliged


----------



## jkschwab1 (May 28, 2020)

We r running in some shallow ponds with mud bottoms. I have run them a good bit and will benefit from a jack plate-of that I am certain. Foreman prop on order. The transport cavitation plate is next. Thanks for all the advice and info.


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

jkschwab1 said:


> We r running in some shallow ponds with mud bottoms. I have run them a good bit and will benefit from a jack plate-of that I am certain. Foreman prop on order. The transport cavitation plate is next. Thanks for all the advice and info.


Looks like the guy in the link I put up, got the 70 horse and bigger plate for his Suzuki 60 and mounted it on top of his cavitation plate. The smaller plate can only be mounted underneath supposedly. Something to consider with Jack’s props.


----------



## Capt.Ron (Mar 5, 2014)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> View attachment 170378


Guess I’ve been doing it wrong for the last 10 years. Or wasted my time learning the channels.


----------



## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Capt.Ron said:


> Guess I’ve been doing it wrong for the last 10 years. Or wasted my time learning the channels.


Congratulations! PM me your address and I will send you a gold star.


----------



## Capt.Ron (Mar 5, 2014)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Congratulations! PM me your address and I will send you a gold star.


I’d be angry too if all we had were 15” redfish.


----------



## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Capt.Ron said:


> I’d be angry too if all we had were 15” redfish.


You are a dumbass, find somewhere else to peddle your bullshit.


----------



## MudSkipper (Jan 11, 2021)

CKEAT said:


> Not for south LA, not same game


You don't need one 95percent of the time. However, there will be times when you wish you had it.


----------



## iMacattack (Dec 11, 2006)

Ron & Smack. Enough. Kiss and make up or ignore each other.


----------



## crboggs (Mar 30, 2015)

I have both on my Glades X and would recommend both.


----------



## Rich11111 (Jun 6, 2018)

jkschwab1 said:


> I talked with Jack foreman yesterday then with the folks at Shaw wing. Adding both would likely be optimal. If you had to pick one first which would it be for intended purpose? Thanks in advance.


What I did is add the Foreman prop first after I had just repowered a Beavertail B2 with a Hatsu. Foreman and others on this forum were correct in that you then should pick up the engine to its highest level, though this went against the Hatsu dealer suggestion. Foreman knows his product. The 60 hp Hatsu did have the larger aftermarket water intakes installed at time of the motor mounting. I noticed a marked improvement with shallow get up. I replaced a 60 Hp Etec. I then added the Shaw wing and which made the performance even better. Since you asked to pick one, I would go with the prop first. You did mention getting a jackplate. Agree with your statement that both would be optimal. I don't know the area you fish which may make a difference?


----------



## jkschwab1 (May 28, 2020)

Fish south Louisiana muddy bottom marsh
Getting up in low water can be 6-8”
Prop will be here soon
Can’t wait
Most people saying do cab plate too so I’m gonna


----------



## Capt.Ron (Mar 5, 2014)

jkschwab1 said:


> Fish south Louisiana muddy bottom marsh
> Getting up in low water can be 6-8”
> Prop will be here soon
> Can’t wait
> Most people saying do cab plate too so I’m gonna


what engine do you have? I have a shaw-wing in my garage if you want to try it.


----------



## Capt.Ron (Mar 5, 2014)

jkschwab1 said:


> Fish south Louisiana muddy bottom marsh
> Getting up in low water can be 6-8”
> Prop will be here soon
> Can’t wait
> Most people saying do cab plate too so I’m gonna


I used to run a 5 blade and a Shaw-wing when I had my etec. They help a little , but what I found. On our soft bottoms my boat would still squat and dig. With the tabs down. But it does help when you need to jump a flat. If you’re fishing the north side , bring a scrub brush to clean out your water pick ups “you may have to make something to reach under the wing. Since I’ve repowered, I have everything set up for long runs.


----------



## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Capt.Ron said:


> I used to run a 5 blade and a Shaw-wing when I had my etec. They help a little , but what I found. On our soft bottoms my boat would still squat and dig. With the tabs down. But it does help when you need to jump a flat. If you’re fishing the north side , bring a scrub brush to clean out your water pick ups “you may have to make something to reach under the wing. Since I’ve repowered, I have everything set up for long runs.


Because you were running a 5 blade and the boat wasn’t set up right. If you get weight, prop, plate, tabs and feather the throttle you can holeshot without trimming down.


----------



## crboggs (Mar 30, 2015)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> you can holeshot without trimming down.


A little negative trim can help raise the stern instead of pushing it down...especially in skinny situations where a blip of the throttle can scoot you over bars or shoals...


----------



## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

crboggs said:


> A little negative trim can help raise the stern instead of pushing it down...especially in skinny situations where a blip of the throttle can scoot you over bars or shoals...


That’s what tabs are for. Tab down and the stern will lift with forward movement. If you can avoid pointing the prop down you won’t blow out a big hole in the bottom with the thrust. I used to tuck the outboard to hole shot, learned a better way and the propwash is clean. Always learning.


----------



## jkschwab1 (May 28, 2020)

Capt.Ron said:


> what engine do you have? I have a shaw-wing in my garage if you want to try it.


Thx Cap
I’m running a zuke 60


----------



## Capt.Ron (Mar 5, 2014)

mine may not fit, it was modified from a 2 smoke 70 Yamaha to fit my old etec


----------



## Capt.Ron (Mar 5, 2014)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Because you were running a 5 blade and the boat wasn’t set up right. If you get weight, prop, plate, tabs and feather the throttle you can holeshot without trimming down.


it shot out of the hole, the prop was built for the boat. I don't need to burn flats anymore to get where I fish.


----------



## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Capt.Ron said:


> it shot out of the hole, the prop was built for the boat. I don't need to burn flats anymore to get where I fish.


Good


----------



## crboggs (Mar 30, 2015)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> That’s what tabs are for. Tab down and the stern will lift with forward movement. If you can avoid pointing the prop down you won’t blow out a big hole in the bottom with the thrust. I used to tuck the outboard to hole shot, learned a better way and the propwash is clean. Always learning.


True...once you have enough forward movement that your tunnel and tabs come into play. But that initial jump needs neutral trim at a minimum unless you want the prop pushing your stern down, which would also push your tab edges (and skeg) down...which can cause contact with the bottom that can push your nose down. That's when you look around sheepishly to see if anyone saw your failure to launch. (Happens to us all...if we're honest about it...) 

And honestly if you are skinny enough that you can't launch cleanly with neutral trim, tabs, and a tunnel you probably need to be looking for a hole to launch from or poling to deeper water. 

Launch and running trim definitely differ IMHO. If I am up and running and know I've got a shoal or something in the 3" range I always raise the tabs and throw a "tic" or two of negative trim in there...that allows the entire hull to ride higher with the tunnel / Foreman prop doing all the work. That can get interesting...gotta be careful not to let the skiff swap ends if you are running a tight channel.


----------



## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

crboggs said:


> True...once you have enough forward movement that your tunnel and tabs come into play. But that initial jump needs neutral trim at a minimum unless you want the prop pushing your stern down, which would also push your tab edges (and skeg) down...which can cause contact with the bottom that can push your nose down. That's when you look around sheepishly to see if anyone saw your failure to launch. (Happens to us all...if we're honest about it...)
> 
> And honestly if you are skinny enough that you can't launch cleanly with neutral trim, tabs, and a tunnel you probably need to be looking for a hole to launch from or poling to deeper water.
> 
> Launch and running trim definitely differ IMHO. If I am up and running and know I've got a shoal or something in the 3" range I always raise the tabs and throw a "tic" or two of negative trim in there...that allows the entire hull to ride higher with the tunnel / Foreman prop doing all the work. That can get interesting...gotta be careful not to let the skiff swap ends if you are running a tight channel.


I understand all of that. Message me, I’ll send you a video if you want to check it out.


----------



## coconutgroves (Sep 23, 2013)

jkschwab1 said:


> Fish south Louisiana muddy bottom marsh
> Getting up in low water can be 6-8”
> Prop will be here soon
> Can’t wait
> Most people saying do cab plate too so I’m gonna


No trying to bust your chops here, but you aren't getting up in 6 to 8" of water. Your skiff would be sitting on the bottom.

I am going to say you have a 12" prop on your boat.

Midline on that prop is 6" - that means half of your prop would be out of the water.

For reference, a beer can is 5" high - a bottle of Yuengling beer is 9" (that's for you @Capt.Ron  ).

In my experience, many people say they are much shallower than they really are. It really does require having the prop submerged, which in many cases will be at least 12 to 15" of water at the minimum.

Now you do mention mud, which means you can blow a hole through the mud, sinking down what is needed to bury your entire prop and get some lift to get out of there. But that is a mess. And also hard on the engine. I just pole to a deeper spot.

Ultimately, my home waters of Texas are very different than Louisiana. For Texas, a jack plate is a must if you pole skinny water. A compression plate can really help in addition to this. I would not run without either.


----------



## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

coconutgroves said:


> No trying to bust your chops here, but you aren't getting up in 6 to 8" of water. Your skiff would be sitting on the bottom.
> 
> I am going to say you have a 12" prop on your boat.
> 
> ...


It is possible to get on plane with your hull sitting on bottom and half the prop out but not just any boat setup and not just hammering the throttle. You have to be able to drive a boat and I mean really drive it. As Seymour says...”riding on the ragged edge”.


----------



## coconutgroves (Sep 23, 2013)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> It is possible to get on plane with your hull sitting on bottom and half the prop out but not just any boat setup and not just hammering the throttle. You have to be able to drive a boat and I mean really drive it. As Seymour says...”riding on the ragged edge”.


No doubt you can do it - but I've seen countless people try this where I run and blow holes in the grass, have their overheat alarm go off, and then get stuck, only to pole out.

There is a reasonable threshold people have to learn for each type of boat. When I see people fail at this, it hurts the environment, is hard on the engine, and is screwing up the fishing surrounding it.


----------



## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

coconutgroves said:


> No doubt you can do it - but I've seen countless people try this where I run and blow holes in the grass, have their overheat alarm go off, and then get stuck, only to pole out.
> 
> There is a reasonable threshold people have to learn for each type of boat. When I see people fail at this, it hurts the environment, is hard on the engine, and is screwing up the fishing surrounding it.


It’s not easy especially if your rig is not equipped. Kind of like trying to drive through mud with street tires and two wheel drive!


----------



## jkschwab1 (May 28, 2020)

It’s pretty shallow and the bottom is soft mud-no sand in this marsh
My need a foot to get up but on plane it is less accessing these areas
It can get messy with the mud
Thanks for all the advice
I’m getting jack plate(decided on Bob’s over atlas micro after discussing with smack-I too have had actuator problems with atlas). That and the foreman prop will go on this week. Will report on performance.


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

With a non tunnel, I'm guessing, from previous experience, that at the highest setting you'll be able to run it, you'll have 6 to 9 inches of skeg / prop hanging below the bottom of the hull.


----------



## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Sublime said:


> With a non tunnel, I'm guessing, from previous experience, that at the highest setting you'll be able to run it, you'll have 6 to 9 inches of skeg / prop hanging below the bottom of the hull.


It could probably run higher with a heavily cupped prop and compression plate but then you get back into the water pressure issue because of the intakes sucking air.


----------



## Capt.Ron (Mar 5, 2014)

coconutgroves said:


> No trying to bust your chops here, but you aren't getting up in 6 to 8" of water. Your skiff would be sitting on the bottom.
> 
> I am going to say you have a 12" prop on your boat.
> 
> ...


I just wish I knew what I was doing so I could give advise........ p.s. at least we've never gotten stuck


----------



## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Capt.Ron said:


> I just wish I knew what I was doing so I could give advise........ p.s. at least we've never gotten stuck


Anyone can plow mud.


----------



## Capt.Ron (Mar 5, 2014)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Anyone can plow mud.


I have better things to plow. Thoughts and prayers.


----------



## matt146 (Aug 18, 2013)

I run a fury with a foreman prop and compression plate and love it for winter time. I want to play with powertec to get a little more speed for summer time. I also have a jack plate


----------

