# Upgrading Bilge in Gheenoe Classic



## JustSomeDude (Apr 11, 2020)

Former luker, first time poster.

Like many, I'm taking this pandemic has an opportunity to work on the boat. Since I got the Gheenoe a year ago the bilge has never worked and I'm going to try to switch it out for a new one. Based on an older thread: https://www.microskiff.com/threads/bilge-pump.23674/ I think I'm going to follow Tom_C's advice and try to take out my old bilge and replace with an Attwood Sahara S1100: https://www.amazon.com/attwood-4511...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Because the Attwood S1100 has a built in float I should be able to remove the old float arm and wiring. 

I think I'm going to also have to take out the 2 position switch and replace it with a 3 position switch correct?

Any advice/input would be greatly appreciated.


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## JustSomeDude (Apr 11, 2020)

Bump


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## Viking1 (May 23, 2010)

I see that you have fuses on the USB and Cigarette Lighter, make sure that you have an inline fuse also for the new bilge pump. Your new panel looks like it has 2 way switches, I could be wrong. If they all are 2 way switches you can still wire it so that you can have your bilge turn on automatically when the water gets high enough. you just have to wire the float wire to a separate switch. Good Luck!


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## noeettica (Sep 23, 2007)

Does the old system still work ?

If so keep it and just add the new one 

Perhaps run the new one from an SLA not connected to the boats electrical system

As you know these little boats need all the help they can get . I have swamped from the bow / the stern and flipped from port and starboard . (Those two boats SOLD)


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

JustSomeDude said:


> 3 position switch correct?


That pump should have three wires.
Black = negative

the other two wires,
one connects to the internal "float" switch and the other is direct to the pump.

Positive lead goes to the center of your three way switch, and the pump leads go "top and bottom" of the switch.
Should come with a wiring diagram.

My take on bilge pumps is that they are cheep and I always keep at least one new pump in the boat as a spare and have a back up plan for powering a pump if the switch or something else goes wrong. 

For my little tin boat (17' Nymph) I've got one pump in the back next to the transom with a float switch, then one up toward the front in the deepest part of the hull plus one spare stowed in the "glove box".

I've also keep the bilges squeaky clean in all my boats.


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## JustSomeDude (Apr 11, 2020)

@Viking1 right now the bilge is wired to a 2 pos switch that is above that 4 switch panel. If I did get the Attwood, it looks like it would require a 3 pos switch for on/off/auto so I was thinking of wiring to the 4 switch panel if I can figure out to free up one of the switches. Right now, they are all for lights it seems. 

@noeettica The old bilge system never worked since I bought the classic a year ago. 

@mro Thanks for the tips on wiring. I don't know if I'd have the ability to switch out a bilge out in the field so I'd probably keep my little manual pump bilge I use in my canoe in the event it ever did fail while I'm out fishing. 

Thanks for the responses guys. I think with the pump I'll need heat shrink tubing, heat shrink butt connectors, ring wire terminals, and bronze washers as well according to Tom_C's bilge installation instructions.


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