# Charlotte Conchfish 16 Build



## Taylor Cullen (Dec 26, 2019)

Wil add photos once I have three post. Like most folks, I also have a instagram: Crocfish16 if you care to follow along there


----------



## GaG8tor (Jul 8, 2019)

I’ve seen it on IG. Looks like you’re moving along well.


----------



## Taylor Cullen (Dec 26, 2019)




----------



## wooddrow (Dec 31, 2013)

if don't mind me asking, what kind of $$ are these boats costing to construct?


----------



## Sethsawyer (Apr 5, 2019)

5-6k for the hull. Water ready 10-15k depending on motor, trailer, and poling platform costs.


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Sethsawyer said:


> 5-6k for the hull. Water ready 10-15k depending on motor, trailer, and poling platform costs.


Yep, with a new decent trailer, new 30 horse, jack plate, platform, tabs yada yada yada, I'm hoping to come in right at $14k. I guess that's one good thing about me being so slow is paying cash as I go.

Following on IG


----------



## commtrd (Aug 1, 2015)

Cost-wise these builds are much more affordable by far. Someday hope to build one just to say "Yep I built that" =) One observation, looks like the deck is actually much more difficult to construct than the hull is?


----------



## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

I still have a question on re-sale: many potential purchasers will not be familiar with the Conchfish and/or may not trust a home-build over a shop-built boat. I am looking forward to seeing a few of these listed in the classifieds


----------



## commtrd (Aug 1, 2015)

I suspect that in TX at least, it will be extremely difficult to get any money back out of a home-build on a sell attempt. Just knowing how the majority of TX fishermen are; extremely brand-conscious as a construct of social media LOL. Sad but true. Plus not so many guys who fish technical poling skiffs compared to over there in FL, so not as much of a market here I would guess.


----------



## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

yobata said:


> I still have a question on re-sale: many potential purchasers will not be familiar with the Conchfish and/or may not trust a home-build over a shop-built boat. I am looking forward to seeing a few of these listed in the classifieds


I look at it the same way I look at a full rebuild on a car/bike/boat. Take lots of pictures, document everything, and be able to explain why you did what you did, as well as how you did it.

I think the value will be based on the confidence in the builder and their methods/knowledge. Take the Beryllium that Chris Morejohn is building right now -- it's technically a home build, but will probably have more value than most other home builds of a similar skiff.

Anyway, look forward to watching another one get built! It's fun to see each builder's individual vision as it comes together.


----------



## kamakuras (Feb 23, 2012)

yobata said:


> I still have a question on re-sale: many potential purchasers will not be familiar with the Conchfish and/or may not trust a home-build over a shop-built boat. I am looking forward to seeing a few of these listed in the classifieds


We will see how mine goes in a year or so once my new shop is built.


----------



## 7665 (Jun 9, 2014)

Sublime said:


> Yep, with a new decent trailer, new 30 horse, jack plate, platform, tabs yada yada yada, I'm hoping to come in right at $14k. I guess that's one good thing about me being so slow is paying cash as I go.
> 
> Following on IG


Yup.


----------



## Taylor Cullen (Dec 26, 2019)

wooddrow said:


> if don't mind me asking, what kind of $$ are these boats costing to construct?


Thats a great question, we will have to see. I would say 4-5k for the hull and then 4-5k for a motor and trailer. From there the sky is the limit


----------



## Taylor Cullen (Dec 26, 2019)

commtrd said:


> Cost-wise these builds are much more affordable by far. Someday hope to build one just to say "Yep I built that" =) One observation, looks like the deck is actually much more difficult to construct than the hull is?


Exactly. Most interested in the actual construction. The savings over buying new is great, but the fun is in the build itself.


----------



## Mike Haydon (Dec 19, 2019)

I believe the conchfish and other @Chris Morejohn plans will cary a significant market value in coming years as long as you purchased the plans from him and the builds continue. The more that are built the better the market, meaning more eyes seeing it in action and not just on the ol interwebs. Not saying any home build wont be of value but I believe his actual plans and laminating schedule will prove more valuable.
That being said I plan on starting a build of my own in the coming months and am not worried about resale. Some just want to say we did it.


----------



## Taylor Cullen (Dec 26, 2019)

Glassing didn’t go quite as planned. Had the resin kick off on me while trying to lay the second layer. So, I have a good amount of air bubbles and dry spots on the second layer. Do y’all suggest grinding these out and filling with fiberglass, or can I get away with filling the dry spots w neat or thickened epoxy? The thought of cutting a ton of small pieces of glass is very appealing and bc it will be cover by an additional layer of glass doesn’t seem completely necessary. What are y’all thoughts?


----------



## Mike Haydon (Dec 19, 2019)

Can you show us with a couple pics? You dont want air bubbles at all if u can help it. It's just a possible failure point and wont be as structurally strong. I would cut out or sand through. If the void is deep enough you might add the glass back in but sounds small enough to sand through. Make smooth as possible and glass over. The dimples and rough areas can be faired after your done glassing and each layer will make them less and less prevalent. I'm sure others will chime in.


----------



## Taylor Cullen (Dec 26, 2019)

Here is an area w three small bubbles that I have ground down on the second layer. These are probably easy enough to fill w glass and go on my way but the chime area are a little more difficult.


----------



## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

Personally I'd sand the hull like normal, and just know that you'll go through the glass in some places. Mark all the places you go through with a marker, then repair all those areas. That way you know you have the correct amount of glass everywhere, and no air bubbles.


----------



## Guest (Mar 22, 2020)

grid’em out, patch’em up, lay next layer and move on.


----------



## Mike Haydon (Dec 19, 2019)

If they are not any bigger than the pic I would just move forward. Patch them if it's the second layer. If it's the first I would just fill with some neat resin let it kick and move on to adding the next layers. Being its Chris's design and layup schedule hopefully he will chime in.


----------



## Sethsawyer (Apr 5, 2019)

IF it was me since it is the middle layer. I would cut out the dry spots then if smaller than a quarter fill with thickened epoxy. Anything bigger than that patch then sand the patch/ epoxy flush and then glass my next layer. Not a big deal at all. This is the great thing about this build method so easy to fix minor stuff like this.


----------



## Guest (Mar 22, 2020)

Mike Haydon said:


> If they are not any bigger than the pic I would just move forward. Patch them if it's the second layer. If it's the first I would just fill with some neat resin let it kick and move on to adding the next layers. Being its Chris's design and layup schedule hopefully he will chime in.


Never, ever leave air in a laminate... period! And, those dry areas will not take any resin in now that they have been wet! These areas are sure failure spots. He needs to grind them out, properly prepare the surface, patch the areas, get on with glassing! I’m not sure why ya’ll second guess the guy that is here offering professional advice with over two decades building and repairing FRP products and outboard engines under his belt and is offering the advise for free but I can stop anytime you cowboys want! And this has zero to do with a lamination schedule and everything to do with an area that needs repaired. You can’t repair a spot by slopping more goop on top. Sorry to sound so harsh, but I am constantly giving sound advice, answering many pm’s, emails, texts, etc... from folks on here and a lot of folks get on here and want to argue or second guess what I am saying. I have done repairs and built stuff for a few on this site and they can vouch for my work. I have given lessons to a few on here and they can vouch that I don’t give bad info, I have consulted a few folks on here and they can vouch that I am honest, transparent, trustworthy, and do my honest best to lead you folks in the right direction with your projects! 
Hell, there are other people in the industry on here that will tell you I am giving proper repair procedures and advice!

OP: sorry for the derail, grind it out and fix it right buddy or you’ll have to live with the fact that those spots are not bonded and will separate and that separation will continue to grow as the heat/cool cycles continue through the life of the boat, James


----------



## Charles Hadley (Jan 20, 2019)

Amen!


----------



## Mike Haydon (Dec 19, 2019)

Boatbrains said:


> Never, ever leave air in a laminate... period! And, those dry areas will not take any resin in now that they have been wet! These areas are sure failure spots. He needs to grind them out, properly prepare the surface, patch the areas, get on with glassing! I’m not sure why ya’ll second guess the guy that is here offering professional advice with over two decades building and repairing FRP products and outboard engines under his belt and is offering the advise for free but I can stop anytime you cowboys want! And this has zero to do with a lamination schedule and everything to do with an area that needs repaired. You can’t repair a spot by slopping more goop on top. Sorry to sound so harsh, but I am constantly giving sound advice, answering many pm’s, emails, texts, etc... from folks on here and a lot of folks get on here and want to argue or second guess what I am saying. I have done repairs and built stuff for a few on this site and they can vouch for my work. I have given lessons to a few on here and they can vouch that I don’t give bad info, I have consulted a few folks on here and they can vouch that I am honest, transparent, trustworthy, and do my honest best to lead you folks in the right direction with your projects!
> Hell, there are other people in the industry on here that will tell you I am giving proper repair procedures and advice!
> 
> OP: sorry for the derail, grind it out and fix it right buddy or you’ll have to live with the fact that those spots are not bonded and will separate and that separation will continue to grow as the heat/cool cycles continue through the life of the boat, James


@Boatbrains , chill out bud. We all said the same thing. If you look at my first post you will see I said to sand them open. Never once said leave an air pocket. I said that an air pocket would not be structurally sound. And as far as me saying chris may chime in was to say it is his layup schedule and his plans and would take his advice over any other because of that. If it was an X-caliber plan set I would have said the same for you. We are all giving advice and I only know of a few that have actual production boats floating around that came to fruition from designs they created. I may not have built a complete boat but have done hundreds of repairs and rehabs to boats and cars.
In his picture they looked to be already ground out.


----------



## Guest (Mar 22, 2020)

Mike Haydon said:


> If they are not any bigger than the pic I would just move forward. Patch them if it's the second layer. If it's the first I would just fill with some neat resin let it kick and move on to adding the next layers. Being its Chris's design and layup schedule hopefully he will chime in.


This is the message I was referring to. What I was stating is that it has zero to do with the laminate schedule or Chris’ plans and everything yo do with a bad lay up that needs repaired. And if it’s the first layer a coat of neat resin isn’t going to make it bond any better as the resin that is there is already kicked and will prevent a proper wet out. And that if it’s the second layer... see what I said about if it’s the first layer.



Mike Haydon said:


> @Boatbrains , chill out bud. We all said the same thing. If you look at my first post you will see I said to sand them open. Never once said leave an air pocket. I said that an air pocket would not be structurally sound. And as far as me saying chris may chime in was to say it is his layup schedule and his plans and would take his advice over any other because of that. If it was an X-caliber plan set I would have said the same for you. We are all giving advice and I only know of a few that have actual production boats floating around that came to fruition from designs they created. I may not have built a complete boat but have done hundreds of repairs and rehabs to boats and cars.
> In his picture they looked to be already ground out.


I’m about as chill as it gets... But WTF does someone going in to production with their own design have anything to do with this thread? 
The areas may be ground/sanded already but my seasoned eye tells me there is dry glass there and EVERY BOOK ever written on FRP whether boats, auto body, carnival rides, airplanes, or spaceships all say the same thing bubba! 
Lastly, I saw your first post and you were on the same page with it. Cheers!


----------



## Mike Haydon (Dec 19, 2019)

Boatbrains said:


> This is the message I was referring to. What I was stating is that it has zero to do with the laminate schedule or Chris’ plans and everything yo do with a bad lay up that needs repaired. And if it’s the first layer a coat of neat resin isn’t going to make it bond any better as the resin that is there is already kicked and will prevent a proper wet out. And that if it’s the second layer... see what I said about if it’s the first layer.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Again I said to grind it down in my first post. The neat resin was just to level the area a bit more before glassing as to not leave such a deep impression to be faired later. The less mud the better.
As far as the production boats, I said that because chris has done that and it's his plans. But I only said that after your rant about you being an expert.

We were saying the same thing but you post my follow up to my first post and get all upset. Seemed like you were bashing what I said. If you weren't then I say that's the problem with a keyboard and not seeing someone in person. Expressions and demeanor say more than verbiage but I cant see that. Sorry if you took it wrong when I said chill out.

Taylor's, sorry for the derail. I'm done with it.


----------



## Guest (Mar 23, 2020)

@Mike Haydon, maybe it was a “misunderstanding” Or “misinterpretation” on my part. If so, I apoligize. I wasn’t only speaking of you in my rant, there have been many many others that type a good sentence but would totally fail in the real world of this industry!








This post immediately followed mine and I took it the way I took it. So again, if misinterpreted I apologize. We can still go fishen buddy. And to the OP, I am sorry about the derail and feel free to have my posts deleted if you want. Carry on, God bless!


----------



## 17376 (May 5, 2017)

Too many women on here anymore! I’m trying to limit my time on here.


----------



## Mike Haydon (Dec 19, 2019)

That's why I quit talking about it. BB and I are still friends. Lol


----------



## Guest (Mar 23, 2020)

Mike Haydon said:


> That's why I quit talking about it. BB and I are still friends. Lol


Hell, I’m friends with everybody!


----------



## Taylor Cullen (Dec 26, 2019)

Thanks for the advice guys. More time, but the one thing COVID has given me is more time to work on the boat.


----------



## Taylor Cullen (Dec 26, 2019)

Finished the fiberglass last night. I have a few dry spots and bubbles I will have to grind out and make perfect. Ordered another 7.5 gallons of epoxy which will hopefully allow me to finish the build, and start fairing. Hoping to start laying the fairing compound by next weekend and be in a position to flip the hull by the end of the month. Looks like we will be staying at home until mid May, which provides lots of time to work on the boat!


----------



## Mike Haydon (Dec 19, 2019)

If you are still getting dry spots in your layup you need to use smaller pieces of glass. The overlaps are gonna cause more fairing but you will end up with a much stronger hull. Those dry areas if ever allowed to open say from an oyster it will start to blister.


----------



## Taylor Cullen (Dec 26, 2019)

Got her flipped over yesterday. All in all I’m very happy with it. I still have some exterior fairing to do but was tired of sanding so I wanted something new to work on. I got all the excess gorilla glue cleaned up and will resin coat today. Hoping to fill any gaps this week and then start glassing the interior by the weekend.


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Taylor Cullen said:


> Got her flipped over yesterday. All in all I’m very happy with it. I still have some exterior fairing to do but was tired of sanding so I wanted something new to work on. I got all the excess gorilla glue cleaned up and will resin coat today. Hoping to fill any gaps this week and then start glassing the interior by the weekend.



That'll be my temptation as well. I've been looking at the bottom of mine for a LONG time.


----------



## Taylor Cullen (Dec 26, 2019)

How are y’all tackling the fiberglass in this area? Are y’all pulling a filet against the raw glass on the bottom of the hull and the sides of the exposed foam, or beveling the foam down the meet the raw glass? Or a combo of both?


----------



## Sethsawyer (Apr 5, 2019)

Both filet and beveled the top edge of the foam. If I did it again I would Make my aft square cutout where the bilge pump goes bigger than I did to make a little bigger area to hold pump and switch and that little bit of water you do not want in the cockpit. Mine is real tight getting the bilge pump and switch in there. If you are doing a False floor this is not as important.


----------



## Taylor Cullen (Dec 26, 2019)

Thanks Seth, my rear pad is 5”x6”. Think I still need to go bigger?


Sethsawyer said:


> Both filet and beveled the top edge of the foam. If I did it again I would Make my aft square cutout where the bilge pump goes bigger than I did to make a little bigger area to hold pump and switch and that little bit of water you do not want in the cockpit. Mine is real tight getting the bilge pump and switch in there. If you are doing a False floor this is not as important.


----------



## Sethsawyer (Apr 5, 2019)

Taylor Cullen said:


> Thanks Seth, my rear pad is 5”x6”. Think I still need to go bigger?


Yes, figure out what size bilge pump and what size float switch and then room to put the plug in with a little finger room. If I did mine again it would be at least 5” bow to stern and 10” wide.


----------



## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

I'll echo what @Sethsawyer said. I pulled a fillet on the bottom edge and rounded over the top. Cut a pretty solid bevel on the edge around the sump. Also, I made my bilge sump pretty much the same size as my motorwell -- I think the cutout ended up being around 9x18 or so. You don't really have anything to lose by going as large as possible. This picture was after coating with neat resin but before adding the radius. Also before cloth obviously.


----------



## Tautog166 (Jul 7, 2018)

Taylor Cullen said:


> How are y’all tackling the fiberglass in this area? Are y’all pulling a filet against the raw glass on the bottom of the hull and the sides of the exposed foam, or beveling the foam down the meet the raw glass? Or a combo of both?
> View attachment 132628


This would be a perfect time to epoxy in a shoot through transducer. It would be depth only though. No sidescan. 

Nice work.


----------



## Taylor Cullen (Dec 26, 2019)

bryson said:


> I'll echo what @Sethsawyer said. I pulled a fillet on the bottom edge and rounded over the top. Cut a pretty solid bevel on the edge around the sump. Also, I made my bilge sump pretty much the same size as my motorwell -- I think the cutout ended up being around 9x18 or so. You don't really have anything to lose by going as large as possible. This picture was after coating with neat resin but before adding the radius. Also before cloth obviously.
> 
> View attachment 132712


Makes sense. Thanks Bryson


----------



## Taylor Cullen (Dec 26, 2019)

Tautog166 said:


> This would be a perfect time to epoxy in a shoot through transducer. It would be depth only though. No sidescan.
> 
> Nice work.


It would. Probably not going to mess w any electronics for this build. Trying my hardest to keep it as simple as possible


----------



## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

Taylor Cullen said:


> It would. Probably not going to mess w any electronics for this build. Trying my hardest to keep it as simple as possible


That's another reason I made the sump large. If I add a GPS/sounder in the future, I have enough room to do so. Otherwise you'd have to remove core somewhere else.


----------



## Taylor Cullen (Dec 26, 2019)

Got the interior glass finished and got the two main bulkheads built but not glassed in. Splash well is built and will be glassed in next. Making progress but pretty tedious work


----------



## Mike Haydon (Dec 19, 2019)

Have you said what you are doing for hatches?


----------



## Taylor Cullen (Dec 26, 2019)

Mike Haydon said:


> Have you said what you are doing for hatches?


Going to do one forward and one aft hatch and thats it


----------



## Mike Haydon (Dec 19, 2019)

Are they going to be custom or the plastic pre made stuff?


----------



## Taylor Cullen (Dec 26, 2019)

Mike Haydon said:


> Are they going to be custom or the plastic pre made stuff?


All fiberglass. Currently planning on making them myself. If I can find a decent deal on premade hatches and channels I will consider buying them but everything I have seen is very expensive.


----------

