# DIY stripping bucket



## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

I decided to make my own bucket out of necessity recently. I needed a way to store my fly rod ready to cast for fishing solo. The collapsible basket I was using worked great but lacks the rigidity to support the weight of the rod and reel. Not ideal for fishing solo.

Next issue was my refusal to pay $200 for a bucket. I don't care who makes it, or how nice it is. So the search was on. Lots of round trash cans, some are thin cheap plastic, others metal. I was looking for something heavy duty and also the right measurements.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/RUBBERMAID-355000GRAY-Rigid-Liner-12-1-8-gal.-Gray/40927152

It's on amazon with free shipping for prime members as well.

Items needed: Rubbermaid trash can, automotive edge trim, foam mat, hose with lead weights, zip ties

Tools: sharpie, jig saw, drill, 80 grit sand paper
Total cost around $65 to build complete. I had everything on hand so all I needed was the trash can, so $40 for me.

All I need now are some stickers to drown out the grey. If anyone has some extras let me know.


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## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

Under the green foam mat with the zip tie fingers are quite a few 1 oz lead weights inside of garden hose. That hose is rolled up and zip tied to the green mat so the insert comes out as one piece.


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## floridascuba (Mar 15, 2012)

Looks great


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## NoeSmyrnaBch (Aug 19, 2013)

Awesome! Thanks for sharing. Trying to decide on a bucket vs. some sort of mat. I find it hard to strip the line into the bucket consistently, which so far, is my only hang-up with them. I do need some place to quickly and quietly store the rod while poling myself along.


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## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

NoeSmyrnaBch said:


> Awesome! Thanks for sharing. Trying to decide on a bucket vs. some sort of mat. I find it hard to strip the line into the bucket consistently, which so far, is my only hang-up with them. I do need some place to quickly and quietly store the rod while poling myself along.


The two little notches I cut out on the top of the bucket hold the fly rod ready to go, line already stripped in the bucket. 
I tried the mat and it was great till it was windy. To your point the line doesn't always make it in the bucket but it works 90% of the time and that's enough for me.
If I'm doing short little strips no issues. If I'm stripping super fast it's more of a challenge but one I can live with.


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

Looks great dude! 2 thumbs up!!!

You can also just set the rod in the bucket, reel side down, which might make it a little more stable on it's own. Also maybe a foam pad glued to the bottom to help it to be more quiet if your moving it around the deck alot. 

You could also consider cutting one side down (opposite from your handle) to open up the throat to help make it easier to throw line into. The tall inside side acts like a backboard to throw your line at and it channels it down to the bottom.


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## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

Backwater said:


> Looks great dude! 2 thumbs up!!!
> 
> You can also just set the rod in the bucket, reel side down, which might make it a little more stable on it's own. Also maybe a foam pad glued to the bottom to help it to be more quiet if your moving it around the deck alot.
> 
> You could also consider cutting one side down (opposite from your handle) to open up the throat to help make it easier to throw line into. The tall inside side acts like a backboard to throw your line at and it channels it down to the bottom.


I built this to my liking and am done with it.

I didn't want to store my rod vertically with the reel inside of bucket. Then I have a 9ft rod sticking up getting in the way of my push pole movement. Storing the rod laying on its side on the top of the bucket is much easier when fishing alone. It reduces the amount of movement when clipping the pole to my hip and picking up the rod for the cast. I can make that transition without taking my eyes off the fish. 

I have seadek so I don't need foam on the bottom. Also prefer the tall back to the cutout side.


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

Sure, I understand. Got to go with what you are trying to accomplish.

The vertical thing, was only a thought to lower the center of gravity of the weight, but I understand where that extra 7ft would get in the way of your pole swinging around.

Sea Dek is great stuff!

Not sure what you meant by _"prefer the tall back to the cutout side." _ I was referring to leaving the handle side the same way it is (tall and therefore, tall back) and cutting down the other side like you see most is them.


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## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

Backwater said:


> Sure, I understand. Got to go with what you are trying to accomplish.
> 
> The vertical thing, was only a thought to lower the center of gravity of the weight, but I understand where that extra 7ft would get in the way of your pole swinging around.
> 
> ...


So is the cutout side so you don't hit your stripping hand on the edge? For me the height isn't an issue as it is, not going to hit my knuckles on it. I don't see the benefit of the cutout side otherwise.

As for weight I have a bunch of garden hose coiled up in the bottom under the foam mat. The hose is loaded with lead so it's not going anywhere.

Was contemplating drilling holes so water doesn't collect but that was the only thing I haven't gotten around to.


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## BayStYat (Sep 12, 2012)

Great looking set up. I just glued a 25lb workout plate to the bottom. I can run 30 and mine is very stable.

The cut out is for less drag as the line leaves the bucket. the cutout faces the direction of the cast.


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## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

BayStYat said:


> Great looking set up. I just glued a 25lb workout plate to the bottom. I can run 30 and mine is very stable.
> 
> The cut out is for less drag and the line leaves the bucket. the cutout faces the direction of the cast.


Makes sense, didn't think about that. For my needs I have to keep the front edge.


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

el9surf said:


> So is the cutout side so you don't hit your stripping hand on the edge? For me the height isn't an issue as it is, not going to hit my knuckles on it. I don't see the benefit of the cutout side otherwise.
> 
> As for weight I have a bunch of garden hose coiled up in the bottom under the foam mat. The hose is loaded with lead so it's not going anywhere.
> 
> Was contemplating drilling holes so water doesn't collect but that was the only thing I haven't gotten around to.



Like the one Bay is selling on the recent thread titled 

*Strip and feed and carbon marine stripping baskets

*


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## T Bone (Jul 24, 2014)

Where did you get the automotive trim?

Also, could you give a little more step by step process? Very interested in doing this, your turned out great!


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## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

T Bone said:


> Where did you get the automotive trim?
> 
> Also, could you give a little more step by step process? Very interested in doing this, your turned out great!


This was an extremely easy project, so if this seems overly simple and detailed don't laugh. You asked for a step by step

Flexible auto trim was from discount auto parts. $11 bucks for the pack, enough for 3 of these buckets.
I drew the notches on the top edge of the trash can with a sharpie and took a jigsaw to them. Take 80 grit sand paper to smooth the rough edges. I found a small rectangular container to trace the handle cutout. Drill a hole in the center large enough to fit the jigsaw blade and then cut the handle hole.

If you want to cutout the front as suggested previously to reduce line drag just trace and cut to your liking. I opted to keep the front edge so I could hold my rod in place ready to go.

The trim has adhesive in the channel, just open it up and press it on, it will folow the contour. Make sure the edges of the trash can that have been cut are smooth so you have better contact fo the adhesive.

The insert is nothing more than foam mat, hose, lead weights and zip ties. I had leftover eva foam excercise mat, it doesnt absorb water and is pretty tough.

Just trace the radius onto the foam with the bottom of the trash can for one, and the and the top of the trash can for the other and cut out with scissors. The tracing from the bottom of the can will be slightly smaller diameter than the top.

Fill up hose with lead weights or galvanized nuts, rocks or whatever you have laying around that will ad weight. Ace sells plastic tubing, I had leftover garden hose from one that the coupling had broken on.

Tape the hose shut once you have the weights inside, and tape the hose in a radius the same as the bottom foam cutout. Use electrical tape for this. Zip tie the hose to the cutout so the edges align with4 zip ties. You can add a second radius of hose inside the initial radius to add additional weight if needed.

Take the top foam cutout and poke very small holes and pull zip ties through facing upwards for fingers. I did a pattern with a sharpie so they were evenly spaced but I don't think it really matters too much. The base of the zip tie will catch so it doesn't pull all the way through. Align the top foam with the weighted base and poke 4 holes along the edges and zip tie the top foam cutout to the bottom foam base oreo style so the hose is trapped in the middle. These zip ties that attach the top foam piece will go around the hose and through the botton foam so everything is tied together at this point.

Now that the base is one solid unit Push the zip tie fingers back down so their base hits the foam floor. Trim the upward facing zip tie fingers to your liking, drop the insert in the can and you are set to go.

As mentioned this is super easy and can easily be done in less than an hour start to finish. Total cost if you have to buy everything shouldn't be more than $70.


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## T Bone (Jul 24, 2014)

Thanks el9! Sounds easy enough, and it looks awesome for a much better price then the production ones!


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