# 2001 Hell's Bay Waterman



## [email protected] (Nov 6, 2013)

I promise this will be that last thread I start for my skiff. I think I have like 3 others floating around but can't ever seem to find them.

Anyways I'm actually starting to make progress on her so I decided to make another one. Got the console sold last week so I spent the weekend removing it and the rigging. Also gave her a much needed bath. Hoping to get all the switches and trim tabs moved back to the rear bulkhead this Sunday. And if all goes as planned have all the holes patched and respray the nonskid by the end of next month. Im going to put a piece of seadeck over the binnacle hole till then.


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## shiprock8 (Sep 23, 2013)

Great skiff, and you have a clean slate to work with. Are you putting a tiller on that engine?


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## [email protected] (Nov 6, 2013)

Yes, should be ordered by the end of the week.


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## [email protected] (Nov 6, 2013)

Need some help. Does anyone know if the 2 rear compartments behind the 2 rear hatches are filled with foam for flotation? I have a birdsall TM puck I want to remove and I'm hoping it's not thru bolted so I won't have to cut a hole in the rear bulkhead in the port side rear hatch to reach the nuts on the back side. If they are not foam filled would it help to fill them with 2 part foam to help with draft?


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## Dillusion (May 21, 2012)

> Need some help. Does anyone know if the 2 rear compartments behind the 2 rear hatches are filled with foam for flotation? I have a birdsall TM puck I want to remove and I'm hoping it's not thru bolted so I won't have to cut a hole in the rear bulkhead in the port side rear hatch to reach the nuts on the back side. If they are not foam filled would it help to fill them with 2 part foam to help with draft?


The TM bracket was probably installed with rubber/metal expanding toggle bolts if it's in a hard to reach area. If that's the case, you can rip them out without reaching under and you just need to do some repair work after.


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## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

Filling voids with foam doesn't help with draft. Draft is a result of the diaplacement of the hull. If you want to reduce draft you need to remove weight. If the boat were to become swamped with water then yes added foam would help with bouyancy to potentially keep it from sinking but only as a secondary measure.


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## [email protected] (Nov 6, 2013)

Thanks Matt and El9. I should of explained that a little better. I knew it wouldn't make it draft less, but I didn't know if it would help keep the draft the same between a light load and heavy load. Do you think it would be worth filling them with foam? I'm already going to have holes in the port side and I'm eventually going to respraying the decks. So it wouldn't be that much of a hassle. Just drilling a hole and filling with 2 part foam thru a funnel. Then patching the holes, which I already have a dozen or so. What's 1 more. Lol


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## Snookdaddy (Jan 5, 2008)

Spruce,

Your Waterman shouldn't have any space for the filling of foam... Take you phone and snap a picture of the topside of the rear puck, leaving enough room to see the transom and take another picture of the underside of the hatch showing where the puck is mounted.. All screws, bolts, ect. should be accessible from underneath the hatch, unless 1 or 2 of the fasteners were drilled into the top of the transom..

Post pictures here..

I would remove the puck and fill the holes with thickened epoxy, then finish. 

** Helpful hint: If the puck was installed with 4200 or 5200, do not try to pry the puck up... Use a length of Power Pro and saw back and forth on the bond between the puck and the hull.. This works and will not tear up your deck..


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## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

Good idea on the power pro never thought of using it like that.


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## [email protected] (Nov 6, 2013)

Snookdaddy, Hell's Bay built their rear hatches different then Tom built his. I was kinda mad when I looked in my buddies Gordon built waterman. His hatches go all the way to the transom like yours did. Would of given me just enough room in my port side live well to keep 2 slot reds for the few tournaments I fish a year. On the plus side I looked thru an old hole in my starboard side hatch and it looks like the space I'm talking about is filled with foam. I'm hoping this wont effect me adding a 4' power pole later down the road.


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## mwolaver (Feb 6, 2014)

Spruce, my '02 HB waterman boxes go all the way transom...at least from what I can see and measure. They seem to go quite a bit further aft than yours....

Enjoying the thread. Mark


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## Snookdaddy (Jan 5, 2008)

I stand corrected...  I've never seen one that the hatch didn't go all the way back to the transom..

I'd bet that those are toggle bolts and you could probably use a power drill and remove each bolt and just leave the toggle in the space..


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## Chasintail22 (Jun 22, 2009)

Evan, my hatches are the same as yours. There is a space behind the rear wall of each hatch that I've always assumed is filled with flotation foam (since there's literally nowhere else it could be in the skiff). That being said, it does limit you from using or accessing any type of through bolt in that said area. Our trim tabs are just screwed into the hull, most likely just bonded with 5200. 14 years and they're still kicking. Now a power pole on the other hand that's a different story. I wouldn't want to just rely on screwing them into the transom without any type of through bolt, given the amount of stress that's on it when you stick the boat. Plus you'll have to run your hydraulic lines up from it, along the underside of the cap lip, over the transom into the skiff, then bring them into the hatch where your pump would be. The power pole micro might be a better idea since you could get the one that you could clamp on the rear lip, and then just run a battery pack with it. Cut the pole to about a 3' height and you should be fine.

BTW, don't forget to swap those push pole holders to the right side before you respray the deck! ;D


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## castawaycustoms (Jan 27, 2008)

Just knock out those false bulkheads in each locker, dig out the foam, and re awlgrip or gelcoat inside the lockers. You will have access to the transom if you need to through bolt anything and have more storage. Did it to one of my Watermans years ago.


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## jacobhicks112 (Sep 23, 2014)

is there somewhere i can buy the black rails on the deck?


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## Dillusion (May 21, 2012)

> is there somewhere i can buy the black rails on the deck?


Directly from HB


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## [email protected] (Nov 6, 2013)

I plan on doing some wiring on the skiff this weekend. Can anyone tell me what size fuze/wire I should use for my T&T switch. I plan on just using one of the old rocker switches I used for my trim tabs. I spoke with the guy I sold my console to today and he said he would send me his tiller parts from his 50hp Merc when he gets his conversion wrapped up. So I'm going to hold off on buying one till I see if his will work. (His motor is a little newer than mine but from what I have researched and the pics he's sent me I should be good to go.) I also ordered a new trim tab before christmas from a web site a fellow member suggested. It was the cheapest place around but as of yesterday it hadn't shipped. I canceled the order and placed a new order from amazon and it shipped the same day. Plan on installing that too.


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## [email protected] (Nov 6, 2013)

Got my trim tab in. Hope I can get everything wired up this weekend.


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## Dillusion (May 21, 2012)

There is a way to calculate needed fuse amperage, but I just do it like this:

LEDs = 3A since they use basically no power and 3A is the smallest fuse (pink)
Bilge pumps = 10A since that's what the directions call for (red)
Trim Tabs/12v outlets = 15A since they are 12v systems and they don't make a 12v fuse (blue)


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## [email protected] (Nov 6, 2013)

Thanks Matt. When the T&T switch was on the binnacle there was no fuse for it. (Or at least not in my fuse panel.) Does it need one or is there a fuse somewhere on the motor? Also when I had my skiff rewired they did not use a breaker. I also see that ECC doesn't use one on the Glide either. (If you don't know me, I really like the Glide and how clean they do their wiring.) Do I need to add one between my battery selector switch and fuse panel, if so what size?

Thanks guys,
Evan


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## crisslackwater (Nov 1, 2014)

Rather than a fuse panel, you might consider a breaker panel.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/5052/ST_CLB_Circuit_Breaker_Block_-_6_Position_with_Negative_Bus


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## [email protected] (Nov 6, 2013)

Went to a Capt. meeting for a fundraiser redfish tourney tonight. Picked up a pair of Smith Optics Touchstones for $95 and a Carbon Marine 34" tiller ext. for $130. So stoked!!!!


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## Bissell (Feb 27, 2010)

The fuse for T&T is on your motor. You'll be fine running 14-16g for those. Some pumps are 5 amp.you should be fine with no breaker, even if you turned everything in the boat on you wouldn't draw enough power to burn up 8g wire. Bilge, bub, nav, and LEDs.


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## [email protected] (Nov 6, 2013)

Just want to say thanks for everyone's help and input. Few more questions... I picked up a 34" carbon marine tiller extension at a silent action last night. Has anyone mounted their T&T switch to the end of one? Or should I just move the kill switch with a water tight quick disconnect plug for the wires incase I want to take it on and off. (My brother trailers his Gman with it off so it doesn't put stress on the tiller arm bushings) Also I'm just starting to get into fly fishing and I have yet to take a trip on my skiff. (I spend way more time on my good friends 16 waterman than mine. I'm ready to get her back on the water!!! He's got all the bells and whistles. That's one of the reasons I converted mine back to a tiller, to keep her as light and simply as possible. For when we're not tournament fishing and just want to go strictly pole and throw artificial.) Anyways I would be lying if I told you, I'm function over form. I'm really not a big fan of the black toe rails and with me respraying the non-skid now would be the time to remove them. Anyone have any feedback on them or does a stripping basket work just as well?

Installing the new trim tab tomorrow and redoing some wiring. I'll post some pics tomorrow evening of my progress. Also if anyone wants me to post anymore pics, or any specific pics just let me know.


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## JRP (Sep 24, 2012)

The great thing about the carbon marine tiller extension is not only is it light but easily removable a big plus if your running in creeks with bends for quicker turning response being closer to motor .Just use the kill switch on tiller handle mount the trim tilt switch on the bulked or gunnel where you can trim the motor with your right hand keeping left hand on throttle grip.I still have the tiller handle here to fit your motor sure would be a big savings over ordering one its like new Pm me if interested .


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## [email protected] (Nov 6, 2013)

I'll get with you if the guy I sold my console to doesn't come thru. Do you have everything? Throttle cable bracket, tensioner set up, and the shift handle and all the likage? How much, and where are you located? If anything I would like to bring me skiff to you so we can hook it up to make sure everything is there.


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## JRP (Sep 24, 2012)

We already went over all this with multiple texts photos ect the price was $200 I tried to make it real easy now you are putting way to many complications into something simple .I live in South Dade if you were closer I would be glad to just bring everything to your house you live 5hrs each way from me hopefully the other one will work out for you. Thanks


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## [email protected] (Nov 6, 2013)

Sorry if I rubbed you the wrong way big dog. I've bought 2 tiller kits from 2 Merc dealers now for $50 & $100 and was told that both of them would work and they didn't. There's a few small parts that I guess people don't think I need. Guess that's my fault for trying to catch a deal. I just dunked my phone and had to replace it so all my texts are gone. Again sorry, wasn't trying to "Complicate something easy". Just a young kid trying to stretch a dollar I don't have.


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## tomahawk (Mar 9, 2012)

I feel your pain man. I bought a motor that was originally a tiller and the previous owner had converted it to a remote. He claimed to have all the parts for the tiller, but of course he didn't. This place has exploded diagrams on line with the part #'s for everything and you can purchase from them as well. http://www.boats.net/parts/search/parts.html
I bought the rest of the parts needed from them such as missing bolts, spacers and such. Some of it was back ordered but I did get everything reasonably fast. Good luck.


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## flytyn (Aug 21, 2012)

Post your pics when done


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## Snookdaddy (Jan 5, 2008)

> Anyways I would be lying if I told you, I'm function over form. I'm really not a big fan of the black toe rails and with me respraying the non-skid now would be the time to remove them. Anyone have any feedback on them or does a stripping basket work just as well?


Spruce,

I've had skiff with and without the front "toe rails" and their only useful purpose is to keep a beer from rolling over the side.. They're useless for flyline in anything over 5mph wind.. I have them on my Waterman now and I don't see the purpose at all... and, I fly fish 98% of the time..

Take them off and sell them for $75 to someone who thinks they need them.. A fly bucket is much better in windy conditions..


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## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

Toe rails are useless, I took mine off before I had mine awl gripped. The cf tiller arm is great, had one on my last skiff. I kept mine on while trailering pointed upward, but was careful to tie it in place with thin bungee string to keep it from hitting the platform. Carbon fiber isn't extremely strong when it comes to impact resistence, so keep that in mind.


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## Net 30 (Mar 24, 2012)

> *Toe rails are useless*, I took mine off before I had mine awl gripped. The cf tiller arm is great, had one on my last skiff. I kept mine on while trailering pointed upward, but was careful to tie it in place with thin bungee string  to keep it from hitting the platform. Carbon fiber isn't extremely strong when it comes to impact resistence, so keep that in mind.


Don't know if I agree with that. They don't do much for trapping fly line but they have saved my azz more than a few times when I ran towards the bow fighting a fish and the stupid rail let me know my foot was about to go off the front end. It's kinda nice to have a rail to snub you toe against when you get caught up in the moment. I'll take any help I can from ending up in the drink.


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## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

Never thought of them for that use, but then again I don't normally fall off boats 
Guess if I'm that far forward or off center I'm asking for it. For me I'm probably just as likely to trip on them getting off the boat at the dock. Functionality is marginal at best. In terms of looks the skiff looks cleaner without them.


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## [email protected] (Nov 6, 2013)

JRP or anyone else that knows. What is number 9 in this diagram (Switch, electric tiller)

http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Merc2/Mercury/40%20%283%20CYL.%29/0P325500%20%26%20Up/Bottom%20Cowl/parts.html

Another part I had know idea I needed.

And thanks Tomahawk. I wish I knew about this when I bought my first tiller arm.


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## tomahawk (Mar 9, 2012)

Looks like maybe the neutral safety switch. It should still be there.


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## Godzuki86 (Nov 30, 2013)

My toe rails aren't removeable, so I have no option. But, I have had them keep things from rolling off the deck. Whether it's the rail or the edge of the boat, I try to feel with my feet as best as possible so I don't go swimming.


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## [email protected] (Nov 6, 2013)

Thanks Hawk. The guy I sold my console to sent me some pics of his motor and I noticed it. Mine doesn't have one. Guess I need him to send that too.


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## Chasintail22 (Jun 22, 2009)

Toe rails are all about personal preference. I find that they are a very classic look, and therefore I added them to my Waterman last year. Love the look. To each their own! But you are correct, if you do want them off, now is the time to do it when you respray the deck.

One word of advice, make sure your steering tensioner works now that it's a tiller setup. Mine is shot and I can barely get it to put tension on my motor. When running this is a pain in the a** since the motor torque wants to pull the boat left naturally, and ends up being a fun arm workout. I was able to get a little more tension by messing with it recently, which has definitely helped, but really need to get it working perfect.


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## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

Chasintial22
You can adjust the torque tab to eliminate most of the motor pull. Tensioner definitely helps make life easier


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## [email protected] (Nov 6, 2013)

Came home to a box on the front porch. Was already dark out but I couldn't take it. Had to slap her on and see how she looked. Glad I held out and didn't buy a new one. Looks like I have everything to complete the conversion. The tiller arm and mounting bracket were in very good condition, no chips or scratches. I just bolted it on for now. Hoping I can hook all the wires up tomorrow. Glanced over everything real quick and I might have to find someone in the Daytona Beach area with the same motor to look at a couple wires. Like I said before. A lot more parts than I expected. If anyone has the same motor and wouldn't mind shoot me a PM. 

Thanks,
Evan


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## orlgheenoer (Dec 10, 2006)

Hope to god you had a thermacell or at least those 15mph west winds are keeping the evil critters from carrying you off.


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## JaredFacemyer (Jul 29, 2009)

Getting closer!!!


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## [email protected] (Nov 6, 2013)

Got some more work done today. Not much, but a little. Turns out I did not get everything I needed. Missing some wires between the push button kill switch and the main harness. And the lanyard kill switch and the main harness. Thinking about dropping her off at the local Merc guy and having them finish her up. I never knew how many wires were on a little 40hp 2stroke. Not that theres a bunch of different wires but the same wire keeps breaking off into two. I think between the 2 kill switch theres like 5 or 6 splits in the wire.

I cant find the part number for what I need so Im probably going to have to build my own harness from this diagram. (Sorry its a link, wouldn't let me save it to my computer.)
http://boatinfo.no/lib/mercury/manuals/40-50-55-60.html#/106

Anyways, here's some more pics.


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## orlgheenoer (Dec 10, 2006)

Looks WAAAAAYYYYY beter man congrats. let me know if you need a little help. will trade glass work for bow time.


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## [email protected] (Nov 6, 2013)

ORL, I might have to take you up on that glass work. How hard you think it would be to patch that old binnacle hole and the 4 bolt holes that held the console on. I know you cant match non-skid so I would just want to patch it and roll some left over awlgrip the previous owner gave me from when he resprayed the cockpit floor. Maybe throw some griptex in it too. I know its not going to look amazing but it will hold me over for a bit. Was planning to have the whole deck resprayed with my tax return. But the old lady is down my throat about buying a house. Guess I have to grow up sooner or later.    

Anyways where do you live at and whats your work schedule like? We can get out either way when I finish her up.


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## grovesnatcher (Sep 25, 2007)

Looks good it's fun driving the tiller and that thing should scoot with that set up. Enjoy watching the progress!


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## [email protected] (Nov 6, 2013)

Thanks Grovesnatcher.

Sorry for the lack of updates. I finally got hired on with the USPS after 3 months of emails and paperwork. Between that and fishing I haven't had much down time. Anyways I've been stuck on the wiring for about 3 days and come to find out I had everything right just not enough juice in the battery to get any spark. Thru a buddies old battery in her tonight and she fired right up. For the most part everything is done. Just need a solid day to clean all the wiring up on the motor and wire up my trim and tilt and tabs.


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## [email protected] (Nov 6, 2013)

I swear Im working on her. Brought her to my buddies dad's house late last week and worked on her Thursday and Friday after work.










Fished Saturday and planned on finishing her up after work on Sunday. Went in to work and got sent home. If you were on the Lagoon Sunday I'm sure you understand why I went back out. (GLASS!!!!!)

Its cool, I've got Monday off. So again the damndest thing happened. I pulled up to my buddies dads house with all intentions of working on the boat. 










Next thing I know I was at Sea Shores looking like this.











Maybe my girlfriend is right. Maybe something is wrong with me.


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## Orlandomako (Jan 13, 2015)

fish and do boat work on bad weather days!


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## [email protected] (Nov 6, 2013)

Got everything wrapped up for the most part. Waiting for a few more things in the mail and she'll be good to go. (Steering tensioner bolt and gear selector switch mounting tab.) Their both on back order so it might be a week or so. Ill try to post some more pics up tonight. Next thing is some patch work and new nonskid. Money's a little tight from the 2 weeks off between my old job and the new one. So it might be a few months. Looking like the extra seadek I got with the skiff might come in hand after all.


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## kooker (Feb 22, 2010)

What kind of trailer is that? Did you paint it?


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## [email protected] (Nov 6, 2013)

I'm guessing your talking about my buddies trailer. The black one? It's a Ramlin painted over from the factory. It's also cut down to fit in his garage. It literally has no tung. Pulls great, fallows right behind the truck. But it's a B!TCH to back up. You can't see it and it turns with the slitest move I've the wheel.


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## [email protected] (Nov 6, 2013)

Well, finally got her out for a quick test run. Have to say it's going to take some getting used to. Feels like a whole different skiff. Im digging the quick/tight steering!


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## Godzuki86 (Nov 30, 2013)

Congrats! Now you just want to go cruise around all the time huh?!


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## [email protected] (Nov 6, 2013)

Oh ya!!! I told myself I was going to keep her off the lift after I finished her up. It's really not a good skiff for Spruce Creek without a TM. But it's a pain in my @$$ to put her in, drive the truck back home, and walk back to the ramp just to take her for a joy ride. (No parking at the community ramp) So I guess she's back on the lift till I get the tiller thing out of my system.


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## [email protected] (Nov 6, 2013)

After nearly a month of waiting I finally got my tensioner parts and gear selector sensor mount in. I've been driving her without any tension for the past 2 weeks and its been wearing my arm out. After 15 minutes of just cruising my arm is dead. All thats left to do is cut my tiller extension down. Im going to start out by cutting 6" off (Its way too long) and then cut an inch or two at a time to dial her in. (I'm probably going to hold off after cutting the first 6" off till I get a grab bar made to mount to my 45qt yeti. I can always take more off but theres no adding once she's gone  ;D  ;D.) I also need a new anode. I just noticed mine does not have one at all. Surprisingly she did not pull when I had the side console, Or I would have noticed when I first bought the motor.

Anyone know how the carbon marine tiller extension end cap is held on. Is it just popped into place or is it glued in. Either way I'm hoping I can reuse it with a little sandpaper and 5200. Haven't decided if I'm going to put the spare rocker switch I have for another trim and tilt location. (Besides the one I have on my rear bulkhead next to my trim tabs.) Or extend the wires from my kill switch with a quick disconnect plug. Otherwise I'm stuck with just the emergency lanyard kill switch. Anyone that has any suggestion on what they think would work the best or what worked for them with their tillers? Please chime in...


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## fatalbert43 (Dec 13, 2006)

Might want to check your trim tab on the motor and adjust it correctly. Ideally the trim tab should handle the majority of the prop torque when cruising around.

I've had many tillers up to 70hp and 90% of the time it's a trim tab adjustment that fixes the drivability of a tiller motor.


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## Snookdaddy (Jan 5, 2008)

> Might want to check your trim tab on the motor and adjust it correctly. Ideally the trim tab should handle the majority of the prop torque when cruising around.
> 
> I've had many tillers up to 70hp and 90% of the time it's a trim tab adjustment that fixes the drivability of a tiller motor.


And...  I've found the best way to do that is on the water with a ratchet and correct socket on board..  

- Run for a few minutes and see which way the outboard is pulling..  Pull up to a sand bar, tilt up the outboard and adjust the tab in the opposite direction..

- Run for a few more minutes and repeat the process until there is virtually no more torque on the outboard.

Do this will little to no tension on the friction bar..  You should not have any fatigue from the outboard tugging your arm..  

- You hand may "fall asleep" on long runs due to the lightweight Carbon Marine tiller. Ask me how I know...


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## Net 30 (Mar 24, 2012)

Just curious - any regret with getting rid of the side console in favor of the tiller?


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## Snookdaddy (Jan 5, 2008)

> Just curious - any regret with getting rid of the side console in favor of the tiller?


You were probably directing this at Spruce, but I went from a 16' Waterman tiller to a 18' Waterman side console and have some experience with both..

I loved the tiller on the 16' Waterman.. I had a 25hp Merc on the back. Super simple to maintain and kept the cockpit uncluttered..   The only downside was running long distances (10 miles one way in the glades), sometimes my hand would get numb.  *I still miss that boat!*

The side console works great on my 18' Waterman,  where I'm usually running longer distances during tarpon season or down in the Glades.  My 18 has a Merc 60hp and covers distance faster for longer runs..  The side console still allows huge cockpit space and has room for gauges to monitor the outboard.  Less fatigue than the tiller, but more to go wrong maintenance wise..  

I would have a tiller on a 16' in a heartbeat with 25 - 40hp, but would opt for the console on the 18' with 60hp and above power..


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## [email protected] (Nov 6, 2013)

> Just curious - any regret with getting rid of the side console in favor of the tiller?


As of right now I'm in love with the tiller. Looks better, I can actually use my starboard rod racks, I have more room for my cooler, and it's just a blast to drive. Not saying that won't get old over time. So I'll check back inn in a few months. That being said if it was a SC from the factory I probably would have kept it. My fishing partner has a 16' waterman with a side console and all the bells a whistles. That played a big factor in me doing the conversion. I wanted something stupid light and simple. I feel like I have the best of both worlds now.


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## JaredFacemyer (Jul 29, 2009)

> > Just curious - any regret with getting rid of the side console in favor of the tiller?
> 
> 
> As of right now I'm in love with the tiller. Looks better, I can actually use my starboard rod racks, I have more room for my cooler, and it's just a blast to drive. Not saying that won't get old over time. So I'll check back inn in a few months. That being said if it was a SC from the factory I probably would have kept it. My fishing partner has a 16' waterman with a side console and all the bells a whistles. That played a big factor in me doing the conversion. I wanted something stupid light and simple. I feel like I have the best of both worlds now.


The best boat is one your buddy owns


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## Net 30 (Mar 24, 2012)

> > Just curious - any regret with getting rid of the side console in favor of the tiller?
> 
> 
> As of right now I'm in love with the tiller. Looks better, I can actually use my starboard rod racks, I have more room for my cooler, and it's just a blast to drive. Not saying that won't get old over time. So I'll check back inn in a few months. That being said if it was a SC from the factory I probably would have kept it. My fishing partner has a 16' waterman with a side console and all the bells a whistles. That played a big factor in me doing the conversion. I wanted something stupid light and simple. I feel like I have the best of both worlds now.


I agree it's best to bring the skiff back to her original pedigree as a tiller….she's gonna look great when you're all done!

I always had a tiller jon boat for duck hunting and found it was great for short runs and hauling lots of stuff. As I got older, I found the side console made running easier with less arm fatigue and more comfortable using a wheel vs the tiller.

I agree with Snookdaddy that anything over a 40hp would be quite a workout with a tiller.


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## [email protected] (Nov 6, 2013)

Took the old girl to the Lagoon for the first time since the conversion. I knew it was going to be a tuff day with the weather calling for 12-13mph winds and no sun. Lets just say the weather man was wrong again. Started out over the projected winds and quickly moved up to 20mph+ with gust up to 30mph. The North wind had the water very low and places that were stacked with fish on Tuesday were a ghost town. Ran from Cedar Creek to Georges Bar and didn't see a fish. Called it a day around 1:00pm and headed to the car wash for a quick bath and then to the local outfitters to pick up some gear and BS till the girl got off work. Very pleased with how she ran. But should of bought a BT Strike.   ;D  Got a little wet on my way back to the ramp.

Snapped a few picks after flushing the Merc and bringing all my gear in.


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