# Keeping your skiff in tip top shape?



## rovster (Aug 21, 2018)

This might sound basic and elementary but what kind of maintenance routines and products do you guys do keep your skiffs in tip top shape. Getting close to pulling the trigger on a new skiff so wanted to get an idea of what I should be doing.

In my family most of the boats have been “beaters” so maintenance is basically a wash after use and flush the engine. We do a yearly maintenance on the engine and grease up the trailer bearings but otherwise nothing special.

Some of you guys’ whips look spectacular wanted to know what the secret was lol.

thanks!


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## TX_Brad (Jun 8, 2018)

I’m interested as well. Right now I basically wash and flush after each use, dry exterior and interior hatches, garage storage with the hatches left open, followed by annual motor service and waxing the hull. I want this sucker to look new as long as possible.


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## rovster (Aug 21, 2018)

We’ve never waxed our boat so this is a once a year thing? Also interested in what should be done for anticorrosion both for fittings and trailer.


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## TX_Brad (Jun 8, 2018)

rovster said:


> We’ve never waxed our boat so this is a once a year thing? Also interested in what should be done for anticorrosion both for fittings and trailer.


I've got an aluminum trailer, so I wash/rinse it with freshwater after every use, check torque on the lug nuts every 2 or 3 times out or before a long trip, and grease the hubs at least 2 times per year. Corrosion X or some anti-corrosion on the threads/undercarriage twice a year as well, and I try not to submerge the hubs as much as I can.

For waxing, I think that is just for me, to make it look better, but in my mind it helps with longevity. I'm always open to new/better ideas, as much as I spent on a boat I want it kept new as long as I can.


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## Guest (Jan 26, 2020)

Keep it off I95!


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## Charles Hadley (Jan 20, 2019)

Spray and wipe down all your bright work with Aluma guard,I do my trailer as well.


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## commtrd (Aug 1, 2015)

Getting my new skiff ceramic coated, boat-motor-trailer. That helps somewhat to maintain good condition.


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## Lagoonnewb (Apr 16, 2017)

Wash after each use, including the trailer, wax the boat 2 times a year and that’s really it. Make sure to dry out hatches and gutters if you can, and just normal maintenance on the motor. It’s not really difficult to keep a skiff looking good in my opinion.


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## DBStoots (Jul 9, 2011)

Few more tips: use dielectric grease on all electrical connections; use Woody's Wax on the non-skid and all of the metal (poling platform, grab rails, etc.). Do the regular maintenance every 100 hours or 1x per year, whichever comes first. Keep your eyes on the tires: proper inflation; if you store the trailer outside, watch for dry rot and you may want to replace every two years regardless of mileage.


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## Jumbo Jet (Mar 18, 2018)

I applied 2 coats of Ceramic when I brought mine home from the factory...
hull, center console, motor and wheels on the trailer. After each use I wash with a Kranzle pressure washer, foam cannon and boars hair brush on an extended handle. Motor flushed after every use as well. Once a month I’ll apply Sonax Spray and Seal over the hull and trailer. Super easy, spray on/rinse off. The ceramic topped with Sonax makes regular washes a breeze. Aero Metal Polish on the fenders, topped with Sonax Spray and Seal. Boat is garage kept, so all hatches left open and a small fan runs inside the bilge for a couple days after each wash.


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## crboggs (Mar 30, 2015)

Salt Away and a good brush will go a long way...


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## commtrd (Aug 1, 2015)

For polished aluminum, a can of NevrDull cotton wadding with whatever the polishing compound is in that stuff really works wonders. Takes a bit of elbow grease, but really gets rid of unsightly water spots and protects the metal. 

Learned about that stuff when working on crew boats long ago. Very in-depth training there...
=)


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## Seymour fish (May 13, 2018)

rovster said:


> This might sound basic and elementary but what kind of maintenance routines and products do you guys do keep your skiffs in tip top shape. Getting close to pulling the trigger on a new skiff so wanted to get an idea of what I should be doing.
> 
> In my family most of the boats have been “beaters” so maintenance is basically a wash after use and flush the engine. We do a yearly maintenance on the engine and grease up the trailer bearings but otherwise nothing special.
> 
> ...


Coat every electrical connection you can find with dielectric grease, at the get-go


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Keep mine covered, which has it's own problems
I try to crank the motor once a month, if it's not used. I like to run a little Dawn through the cooling system to keep the corrosion down. Wax the hull once a year. Pump grease in to my baring buddys before any trip. Pull the wheels, check tires, touch up paint on wheels.
I wash my boat with dawn and add a little bleach it it has mold on it
Check all port holes to see if any under floor is wet. Put a fan over the hole if there's any moisture.
After i dunk it in saltwater i wash all with fresh water. I like to wash my torsion axle from underneath and go behind the wheels with the hose. 
Treat all electric connections with dielectric grease. Take off motor cowling spray any thing that needs anti corrosion
Then get under the trailer to check wiring on lights. Hookup lights to make sure they work
Aren't boats fun


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

use it frequently.


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## rovster (Aug 21, 2018)

Already learned a few things. Thanks all. Will look into some of these products for sure. Any special care for electronics and trolling motors?


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## Matts (Sep 2, 2015)

Yeah, the ceramic coat allows me to just rinse it most of the time. It’s supposed to last 3 yrs so we will see. No wax yet and it’s a year old. Manufacturer states no wax.


commtrd said:


> Getting my new skiff ceramic coated, boat-motor-trailer. That helps somewhat to maintain good condition.[/QUO


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## jay.bush1434 (Dec 27, 2014)

I wash my boat with a soap/wax combo pretty regular. While soap and wax are kinda working against each other, the wax creeps in around the screw heads, hinges, other deck fittings and seems to really help prevent surface corrosion and spot rust. I wipe the boat down with a synthetic chamois cloth to dry it. 
I like using Starbrite Ultimate detail spray on the smooth surfaces of the deck, aluminum and the SeaDek. 
My front hatch has plug that drains to the hull so I’ll pour the bucket of soapy water down in there and let it rinse out inside the hull and bilge.


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## Capnredfish (Feb 1, 2012)

The usual. Clean, wash, dry and keep it in the garage. If you want it perfect, don’t use it.


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## efi2712micro (Sep 17, 2015)

Seymour fish said:


> Coat every electrical connection you can find with dielectric grease, at the get-go


inside the console too or just the trailer's?


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## Buffalo Bob (Aug 28, 2019)

Jumbo Jet said:


> I applied 2 coats of Ceramic when I brought mine home from the factory...
> hull, center console, motor and wheels on the trailer. After each use I wash with a Kranzle pressure washer, foam cannon and boars hair brush on an extended handle. Motor flushed after every use as well. Once a month I’ll apply Sonax Spray and Seal over the hull and trailer. Super easy, spray on/rinse off. The ceramic topped with Sonax makes regular washes a breeze. Aero Metal Polish on the fenders, topped with Sonax Spray and Seal. Boat is garage kept, so all hatches left open and a small fan runs inside the bilge for a couple days after each wash.


What is the Ceramic you are referring too? .... As you know I just picked up my new Mosquito. I want to be sure I do not overlook anything to keep it looking new as long as possible. Thanks!


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

I used the Starbright Restoration and admiral wax on the hull when I got my boat and I use Woodys somewhat regularly on everything!


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## TX_Brad (Jun 8, 2018)

Buffalo Bob said:


> What is the Ceramic you are referring too? .... As you know I just picked up my new Mosquito. I want to be sure I do not overlook anything to keep it looking new as long as possible. Thanks!


It's a ceramic top coating application, applied after a wax or when boat is cleaned. It seals out dirt/salt/hard water allowing everything to be simply rinsed off and keeps the boat looking like its been waxed. Also helps with UV rays and fading of colors There are DIY kits you can buy, or pay upwards of $1500 to have a Pro do it.


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## BobGee (Apr 10, 2019)

DBStoots said:


> Few more tips: use dielectric grease on all electrical connections; use Woody's Wax on the non-skid and all of the metal (poling platform, grab rails, etc.). Do the regular maintenance every 100 hours or 1x per year, whichever comes first. Keep your eyes on the tires: proper inflation; if you store the trailer outside, watch for dry rot and you may want to replace every two years regardless of mileage.


X 2 on the Woody Wax. I do that every couple of months and use Woody Wash in between.


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## Zika (Aug 6, 2015)

I'm a big fan of 3M boat wax. Apply twice a year after washing. AlumaGuard on the trailer at least once a year.

I've been using Orpine boat soap/wax after trips and started adding a good splash of white vinegar to the bucket. It really helps with the hard water deposits that are common with the water at my boat storage facility.


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## Buffalo Bob (Aug 28, 2019)

I do use Orpine boat soap for washing boats. I was not aware of the it having a wax additive also (guess I should read directions!).
I am a big fan of Woody's wax for non-slip and aluminum trailer!


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

It's one of those things where it's like keeping up with your relationship with your wife/girlfriend/spouse. If you have the privilege of being their 1st love/marriage, then you have got to keep up with the maintenance, dote over it and keep the relationship up by doing what you know needs to be done, to keep happy and overall looking good and have a relationship that last. Otherwise, it'll grow stale, lack luster and you'll always be bitchin about it and end up going your separate ways, getting tossed to the curb or leaving you stranded.

If it's that 2nd or 3rd marriage with them or whatever, then there's that evaluation period and you need to consider how much love and work it needs to either work for you and be something that last, and then do it with love and enthusiasm for it, or you'll end up getting bored or they'll give up and then you end up going from one to another. Stressful for some, but like a brother I have, it's what ends up happening to him, time and time again, which he's ok with. So if they are in bad shape and was abused or neglected, then there is a LOT of work ahead of you for it to work out in the long run and be a good thing that last. So that will need even more continued work to keep it up and keep the relationship reliable. 

Whoa, I may have drank too much coffee this morning.


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## Water Bound (Dec 12, 2018)

For the hull- Starbrite Polish w/ PTEF 3 times a year. Easy wipe on, wipe off. It’s great stuff!

Topside-
Every 3 or 4 trips, Starbrite Deck Cleaner w/ PTEF
Every trip (whole skiff and trailer), Woody Wax Wash N Wax

Best thing though- I picked up a small electric pressure washer and keep the Wash N Wax in built in the dispenser. Then Spray the entire skiff and trailer, let it sit a couple of minutes (normally flush the motor during this time), then rinse with the 40 deg nozzle tip. Takes 10 mins


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## crboggs (Mar 30, 2015)

devrep said:


> use it frequently.


Maybe the best advice in this thread...boats break down faster when they sit idle...IMHO...


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## Matts (Sep 2, 2015)

TX_Brad said:


> It's a ceramic top coating application, applied after a wax or when boat is cleaned. It seals out dirt/salt/hard water allowing everything to be simply rinsed off and keeps the boat looking like its been waxed. Also helps with UV rays and fading of colors There are DIY kits you can buy, or pay upwards of $1500 to have a Pro do it.


You should be able to ask the folks at Beavertail about it. I know how Chittum has somebody else doing the ceramic coating for him. A friend of mine just had their large boat ceramic coated here in Texas so I’m sure other people are doing it. I do think it’s about $12-$1500 for the average size skiff.


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## jmrodandgun (Sep 20, 2013)

I let the detail shop take care of it once a year. Usually in March. A couple hundred dollars and they do everything. The rest of the year all I have to do is hose it off. If it's really gross I'll scrub the deck with a blue deck brush and wipe the hull sides with a wet microfiber towel. Whatever coating they use seems to hold up in between details. It's expensive but it saves a bunch of time at the end of a day.


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## Matts (Sep 2, 2015)

I’m sure it’s not perfect, but I have noticed that compared to my old mosquito, which was almost brand new, the Chittum has very little material stick to the side of the hull after pulling it out of the water. For the most part, you can just rinse it off and you’re good to go. I do sometimes lightly scrub the top deck due to heavier wear. I think Chittum may be coating the trailers as well. People used to stuff for the cars to apparently.


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

So it's got to be covered when not in use. Fully washed down and thoroughly rinse and flushed after each use, with cleaners that will not eventually strip the gloss off of it. You have to use conditioners and protectants that will keep the fiberglass glossy and free of oxidation and grime. That also goes for all the brightwork and hardware (basically anything metal) and anything plastic, rubber or electrical. It's best to either restore or replace anything that is breaking down due to the elements. I mean, if you have a screw that keeps on rusting, then it should be removed, reconditioned or replaced. Otherwise, it'll keep on rusting and eventually fail.

Drive and use the thing like you want it to last. If you run it hard and put it up wet, then it wouldn't last long and eventually things will start going wrong. It's simple math. If you run it hard, then it'll need lots of maintenance. If you don't want to constantly work on it, then don't run it hard, be careful what you do with it when in use and clean it up good and tuck it into bed at night after each use.

Like the guys said above there are lots of good products to use. I use the following;

* Star Brite products - they have a lot of good stuff. Yes Woody's wax is also good.
* Whink Rust Stain remover on any spot on the gelcoat that has rust stains. Then coat it with wax of some kind on that spot, once cleaned.
* Corrosion-X for electrical protectant
* QMaxx SALT or Boeing T-9 for any metal hardware protectant (I mostly use SALT tho).
* Rupp Alumaguard on anything aluminum (also protects other metals). I talked to the company Rupp that makes it and they say it's also great for anything rubber or plastic. So I use it to wipe down those surfaces too and it works well for that.

Then regular mechanical maintenance on the OB, anything mechanical on the boat and on the trailer.

If you don't run that OB on a regular basis, then it can be as bad as over running it. At least, hook it up to the hose and run it for a few mins at least once a month if you are not using it at all. Otherwise, at least get out there here and there for the boat and for your sake. Even if its for a short run and a short fishing trip. It's good therapy for both you and the boat. 

Nothing really replaces keeping it covered when not in use. Like how the salt can do damage on anything metal and mechanical, the sun will do the same damage to your gelcoat or paint. So find a covered spot in a garage or carport or have a custom cover made for it (a good one, not a crap one that you get in a box).


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

Matts said:


> I’m sure it’s not perfect, but I have noticed that compared to my old mosquito, which was almost brand new, the Chittum has very little material stick to the side of the hull after pulling it out of the water. For the most part, you can just rinse it off and you’re good to go. I do sometimes lightly scrub the top deck due to heavier wear. I think Chittum may be coating the trailers as well. People used to stuff for the cars to apparently.


What stuff?

It maybe that Chittum is using an epoxy in the gelcoat as oppose to regular resins, or epoxy paints or paints like Awlgrip. A buddy had a boat and the gelcoat constantly needed buffed out and waxed, otherwise, every dark water run would stain it and hold the grime. So he took it down and had it painted with Awlgrip and then it always looked like new and one coat of wax would work for a long time to keep it shiny and free from stain and grime.


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## Matts (Sep 2, 2015)

Backwater said:


> What stuff?
> 
> It maybe that Chittum is using an epoxy in the gelcoat as oppose to regular resins, or epoxy paints or paints like Awlgrip. A buddy had a boat and the gelcoat constantly needed buffed out and waxed, otherwise, every dark water run would stain it and hold the grime. So he took it down and had it painted with Awlgrip and then it always looked like new and one coat of wax would work for a long time to keep it shiny and free from stain and grime.


The ceramic coating they are using.


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## windblows (May 21, 2014)

Jumbo Jet said:


> I applied 2 coats of Ceramic when I brought mine home from the factory...
> hull, center console, motor and wheels on the trailer. After each use I wash with a Kranzle pressure washer, foam cannon and boars hair brush on an extended handle. Motor flushed after every use as well. Once a month I’ll apply Sonax Spray and Seal over the hull and trailer. Super easy, spray on/rinse off. The ceramic topped with Sonax makes regular washes a breeze. Aero Metal Polish on the fenders, topped with Sonax Spray and Seal. Boat is garage kept, so all hatches left open and a small fan runs inside the bilge for a couple days after each wash.


Can you come take care of my boat? Seriously though, that sounds like what I WANT to do every time, but get lazy on some of it. I use the boat at least once a week so it becomes a chore. I'll look into this Sonax


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

Jumbo Jet said:


> I applied 2 coats of Ceramic when I brought mine home from the factory...
> hull, center console, motor and wheels on the trailer. After each use I wash with a Kranzle pressure washer, foam cannon and boars hair brush on an extended handle. Motor flushed after every use as well. Once a month I’ll apply Sonax Spray and Seal over the hull and trailer. Super easy, spray on/rinse off. The ceramic topped with Sonax makes regular washes a breeze. Aero Metal Polish on the fenders, topped with Sonax Spray and Seal. Boat is garage kept, so all hatches left open and a small fan runs inside the bilge for a couple days after each wash.


What Ceramic did you use and share a little more about the Sonax Spray and Seal.


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

Matts said:


> The ceramic coating they are using.


What ceramic coating are they using?


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## wooddrow (Dec 31, 2013)

Jumbo Jet said:


> I applied 2 coats of Ceramic when I brought mine home from the factory...
> hull, center console, motor and wheels on the trailer. After each use I wash with a Kranzle pressure washer, foam cannon and boars hair brush on an extended handle. Motor flushed after every use as well. Once a month I’ll apply Sonax Spray and Seal over the hull and trailer. Super easy, spray on/rinse off. The ceramic topped with Sonax makes regular washes a breeze. Aero Metal Polish on the fenders, topped with Sonax Spray and Seal. Boat is garage kept, so all hatches left open and a small fan runs inside the bilge for a couple days after each wash.


My process is very similar to this. I also live inland so after every use I dunk and flush the trailer when I get back in a freshwater lake. I've feel like the drying process is equally as important as the washing process. I vacuum out the bilge with my shop vac and hand dry with a terry towel the rest of the boat. I cannot stand a rust stain, however all the "stainless" hardware makes it almost inevitable even with a stringent cleaning process.


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## EsteroS (Aug 27, 2018)

I keep a pump up sprayer full of dawn and water. After use, i spray down everything, scrub if needed, then rinse. It's cheap and the dawn really works on most grime and is fine on seadek too.


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## Matts (Sep 2, 2015)

Backwater said:


> What ceramic coating are they using?


no clue


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## WylanB (Jan 14, 2020)

I've been thinking about ceramic coating my next skiff. Is it really worth the $1.2-$1.5K? How long does it last?


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## TX_Brad (Jun 8, 2018)

WylanB said:


> I've been thinking about ceramic coating my next skiff. Is it really worth the $1.2-$1.5K? How long does it last?


IMO, it’s not worth it. I’ve heard 3-5 years on the good coatings. My neighbor had his bay boat done and it peeled/flaked off during the first run and they had to redo it. I’d rather just wax it myself as needed and save the dough.


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## mxbeebop (Mar 22, 2013)

I use hot water tapped off my water heater to rinse down my skiff and trailer. Its very effective.


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## manny2376 (Mar 15, 2007)

Star bright non skid in a spray bottle, a nice deck brush and I recently got an electric Green works power washer. Spray, brush, rinse, salt away during the flush, then wipe everything down with a microfiber towel. About 30 min total. 

My secret weapon is Turtle wax “wax and dry” on the hull. It’s dirt cheap, easy to use and leaves an amazing shine on the hull for what it is. That being said, my hull was fully wet sanded and detailed a little over a year ago. It has been exponentially easier to keep clean since, using the above method. 

x2 on the dielectric grease on anything electrical. I also store the skiff with all the hatches open and try and start/flush every two weeks or so of it sits.


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

Everything as mentioned by others...flush, wash, dry, wax at least once a year, etc. The obvious (and most important) way to preserve your gelcoat, never approach a dock/structure faster than you're willing to hit it


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## Zika (Aug 6, 2015)

EsteroS said:


> I keep a pump up sprayer full of dawn and water. After use, i spray down everything, scrub if needed, then rinse. It's cheap and the dawn really works on most grime and is fine on seadek too.


That's good for clean-up and Dawn is biodegradable. But I'm pretty sure Dawn will also strip wax, which would then have to be re-applied.


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## FMH (Aug 24, 2015)

I've been using Zip Wax for years on everything. Wax (Collinite) every 3 months. Flushed every trip , garage kept with all hatches open.


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

devrep said:


> use it frequently.


I'd love to but the weather here in N GA has been miserable. Had a trip with JDAd that was canceled cause of weather


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## EsteroS (Aug 27, 2018)

Zika said:


> That's good for clean-up and Dawn is biodegradable. But I'm pretty sure Dawn will also strip wax, which would then have to be re-applied.


You know I never thought of that. I coated my skiff hull with ceramic, but my bigger boat I wax, so may change how I clean it


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## Water Bound (Dec 12, 2018)

I met a captain at the ramp once, had a Pathfinder with 3000 hrs on it and it looked great. I asked what he used to take care of it...he laughed and said Blue Dawn with a splash of bleach! 



EsteroS said:


> You know I never thought of that. I coated my skiff hull with ceramic, but my bigger boat I wax, so may change how I clean it


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## Charles Hadley (Jan 20, 2019)

Dish soap strips all waxes off paint and gel coat,cleans great but if you wax slicks or use aluminum spray conditioner and wash with dish soap you wasted your time and money. Ask a professional detailer what he thinks if dish soap.


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## Lowtidelowlife (Aug 19, 2014)

Really liking what woody wax has done for the nonskid. Gut hooked a sail yesterday on a kingfish rig and had to harvest for the smoker. Deck was covered. Didn’t even have to scrub the nonskid. Just rinsed when I got back to the dock. You have to be pretty conservative with the amount of wax you use on the nonskid though or else, weLL the nonskid won’t be nonskid.


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## Jumbo Jet (Mar 18, 2018)

Buffalo Bob said:


> What is the Ceramic you are referring too? .... As you know I just picked up my new Mosquito. I want to be sure I do not overlook anything to keep it looking new as long as possible. Thanks!


Sorry for the late reply. I’m using Gtechniq Crystal Serum, but you can use Crystal Serum Light, as that version is available to the public. Gtechniq is a German company. Most of the leading manufacturers of high end detailing products are German/European. Crystal Serum has a hardness level of 10H, as where Crystal Serum Light has a hardness level of 9H. Application is extremely simple. Please, please, please do not pay someone $1200 to apply a ceramic coating. A 50ml bottle cost $90 on Amazon, and you can treat your entire boat in about an hour. All you need is a pair of rubber gloves and a few soft microfiber towels for removal. The 50ml bottle will easily cover your boat twice. Wait 24 hours in between applications, and the vehicle or boat must be stored indoors overnight while it cures. 

https://usa.gtechniq.com/products/auto/protect/exterior/paint/crystal-serum-light

Spend a couple extra bucks on the high quality Korean made microfiber towels. The cheap ones from Sams or Costco are Chinese made towels and will shed easily and usually come with tags sewn in. I only use the Chinese towels for cleaning door jams and detailing the engine bay. Other than that, they never touch my paint. The Rag Company sells Korean towels, and I highly recommend the “Eagle Edgeless” towels for buffing/detail spray and the “Dry Me a River” waffle weaves for drying. Both are tag free . 

https://www.theragcompany.com/eagle-edgeless-600-16-x-16-microfiber-towel-grey/

https://www.theragcompany.com/dry-me-a-river-korean-waffle-weave-towel/

Hope that helps! Please let me know if you need anything else! 

Mark


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## Jumbo Jet (Mar 18, 2018)

Backwater said:


> What Ceramic did you use and share a little more about the Sonax Spray and Seal.


Sonax is a German manufacturer of high end detailing products. Their Spray and Seal is a new synthetic sealant that is as simple as “spray on, rinse off”. No buffing is required at all. It is activated with water and bonds instantly with the surface once rinsed. I wash and rinse with an electric pressure washer (Kranzle), but a hose wand works just as well. I use Spray and Seal on the trailer as well. Wash the vehicle/boat like usual and rinse. Leave it wet, apply Sonax Spray and Seal over the section you wish to treat, and rinse immediately. I use a gas powered leaf blower to dry the car/boat, leaving the surface 90% dry, then use a waffle weave towel to dry the remaining water. 

https://www.sonaxusa.com/spray-sealant.html

The ceramic coating is supplying most of the protection, so the Spray and Seal is more or less just for fun and extra slickness. But if you don’t have a ceramic layer, the Spray and Seal is a very easy way to add an extra layer of solid protection. 

Hope that helps!

Mark


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## Jumbo Jet (Mar 18, 2018)

Zika said:


> That's good for clean-up and Dawn is biodegradable. But I'm pretty sure Dawn will also strip wax, which would then have to be re-applied.


Dawn has a high alkaline content and is terrible for regular washes. Dawn will strip any layer of wax you have applied, taking you back to square one. It is best to wash with a safe PH balanced car or boat shampoo/wash.


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## TX_Brad (Jun 8, 2018)

Jumbo Jet said:


> Sorry for the late reply. I’m using Gtechniq Crystal Serum, but you can use Crystal Serum Light, as that version is available to the public. Gtechniq is a German company. Most of the leading manufacturers of high end detailing products are German/European. Crystal Serum has a hardness level of 10H, as where Crystal Serum Light has a hardness level of 9H. Application is extremely simple. Please, please, please do not pay someone $1200 to apply a ceramic coating. A 50ml bottle cost $90 on Amazon, and you can treat your entire boat in about an hour. All you need is a pair of rubber gloves and a few soft microfiber towels for removal. The 50ml bottle will easily cover your boat twice. Wait 24 hours in between applications, and the vehicle or boat must be stored indoors overnight while it cures.
> 
> https://usa.gtechniq.com/products/auto/protect/exterior/paint/crystal-serum-light
> 
> ...


Where do you apply the coating? Do you do the whole hull and top side, or only areas that won't see water (above water line)?


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

Water Bound said:


> I met a captain at the ramp once, had a Pathfinder with 3000 hrs on it and it looked great. I asked what he used to take care of it...he laughed and said Blue Dawn with a splash of bleach!


That's what I use mostly, but it seems like a vicious cycle and the grime seems to cling more and more. The bleach will clean biodegratables and the Dawn removes the dirt and oils. But like Zika said, it breaks down any wax you have on the boat over time. Decades ago, I use to use Gain laundry detergent and it was an amazing cleaner, but it broke down any wax in short order.

So I have the boat in a restore project and fine sanding and buffing out the gelcoat and going to try something different this time, hoping it will last and keep me from having to wax it more frequiently. So I might look into the ceramic coating, if is as good as people say it is.

Also, years ago, I started using Polyguard product, a silicone based product that is applied, once the hull was cleaned with a stripper that pretty much removes everything down to the gelcoat. Once applied, you were good for a year and then you had to do it again. With lower use, it would in fact last. But with higher useage, it needed to be re-applied several times a year. The total kit was about $69 and the company was based in Miami and I've seen them here and there at the boat shows. But haven't used it in like 10years and it seems like the company went out of business. I know because I've tried looking them up last week to ask them if they have something better that I could get once the boat was done. Anyone heard of them and/or know what happened to them (any Miami boys know?)?


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

Jumbo Jet said:


> Sorry for the late reply. I’m using Gtechniq Crystal Serum, but you can use Crystal Serum Light, as that version is available to the public. Gtechniq is a German company. Most of the leading manufacturers of high end detailing products are German/European. Crystal Serum has a hardness level of 10H, as where Crystal Serum Light has a hardness level of 9H. Application is extremely simple. Please, please, please do not pay someone $1200 to apply a ceramic coating. A 50ml bottle cost $90 on Amazon, and you can treat your entire boat in about an hour. All you need is a pair of rubber gloves and a few soft microfiber towels for removal. The 50ml bottle will easily cover your boat twice. Wait 24 hours in between applications, and the vehicle or boat must be stored indoors overnight while it cures.
> 
> https://usa.gtechniq.com/products/auto/protect/exterior/paint/crystal-serum-light
> 
> ...


That is some really great info that you shared. I was wondering about that since we had my wife's new car treated with a ceramic coating that they offered (at a premium $$) and they warrantied it for 6yrs against scratches, blemishes, fading, hazing, etc. So they claimed it was a no-wax system.

Then a few months ago, I ran into a shop that did ceramic coatings as a business. It was all they did and showed me an new F250 they just finished that was a $1400 job (outrageous $).

So now my thoughts are, maybe after my gelcoat get's sanded, micro sanded (they are talking about stepping up from 1000 grit, 1500 and then to 2000 grit), then buff it out. The plan was to then to professionally buff on several layers of a hard wax. But this subject got me to thinking....should I apply the ceramic coating on after it's micro sanded, after it's buffed or after it's professionally machine applied hard wax? Thoughts? If recommended applying the ceramic before the hard wax, to I nix the wax completely, or apply it after the ceramic? Thoughts?

The ceramic could be a game changer. Why wouldn't I then strip the oil coatings, wax and such off all my metals, including all the brightwork on the skiff, including the aluminum trailer and then apply the ceramic coating over all that? Then just spray on something like what you are using there (like the Sonax) or some spray on wax to help protect the ceramic coating? Thoughts?

So another question is, do you do the hull bottom and freeboard (sides) with it only (and I can also see doing the console), or also do the deck and non-skid as well? Or is it too slick to do the deck and non-skid?

Here's a fun idea, a guy I know uses Pledge spray on furniture wax to spray down all his fishing reels, which he says it sheds the water right off his reels and so the saltwater never even touches the metal to start any corrosion. He says he's been doing that for years with no issues. Now he's spraying his hull sides and bottom with it. Lol Just say'n.

I have to admit that I've been trying to think outside of the box and I have been looking at other methods to protect the final finish of the gelcoat restore project, including a spray on liquid vinyl product called "Liquid Shield" in lue of waxing the boat. But worried that water will lift it off the surface.
https://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Shield-Protection-Accessories-Preparation/dp/B07WG9TSWV/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=2J6B76P9IFT3C&keywords=3m+scotchgard+clear+paint+protection&linkCode=ll2&linkId=ca88a8ae3450d6c8c1b7ff521278b48a&qid=1580227797&sprefix=3m+scotchguard+,aps,388&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyR0U0U05YUDQxWUFOJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODIxMDM2M0swMlJYN1ZIRkJUUCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNTMwMDgzMUdMMTVCOFlVMEVVMSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Anyone with experience with this stuff on any parts of the boat?


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## Jumbo Jet (Mar 18, 2018)

TX_Brad said:


> Where do you apply the coating? Do you do the whole hull and top side, or only areas that won't see water (above water line)?


I applied ceramic to my entire hull, center console, the screen of my Suzuki C10 gauge, the slicks in between the nonskid, live well, the entire engine. I removed the wheels from the trailer, cleaned throughly and applied ceramic to the wheels and inner barrels. 

Gtechniq will come with rubber gloves and a small foam applicator, as well as an eye dropper. The supplied foam applicator will work great for the wheels and other tighter areas. However, for faster and smoother application, it is best to buy a small foam block and a micro/suede applicator when applying to the hull.

https://www.amazon.com/Applicator-M...jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==


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## Jumbo Jet (Mar 18, 2018)

Backwater said:


> That is some really great info that you shared. I was wondering about that since we had my wife's new car treated with a ceramic coating that they offered (at a premium $$) and they warrantied it for 6yrs against scratches, blemishes, fading, hazing, etc. So they claimed it was a no-wax system.
> 
> Then a few months ago, I ran into a shop that did ceramic coatings as a business. It was all they did and showed me an new F250 they just finished that was a $1400 job (outrageous $).
> 
> ...



Ok, there’s a lot of questions in here, so hopefully I can answer these in order, lol

1. Car dealers offer ceramic coatings as an extra sale on the back end of the deal when you reach the F&I guy. I couldn’t even guess what brands they use, as a car dealer is going to buy from whomever sells them bulk at the cheapest price. Once ceramics hit the market a few years back, and people began to realize the benefits, about 50 companies popped up out of nowhere. Some good, some bad, but for the most part, they will provide the proper protection. A ceramics durability/longevity is rated with an “H”. You will see anything from 5H to 10H. Most of the higher end brands will be a 9H. A ceramic by its nature is extremely hard when it cures, which adds that extra layer of scratch protection. It is also extremely hydrophobic, which makes regular washes a breeze.

2. To be fair to the shop that applied the ceramic to the F250 for $1400, that high price is for the prep work, not just a simple ceramic application. There is a tremendous amount of prep that goes into a vehicle prior to application. Wash/clay, often two steps of polish, isopropyl wipe down, and finally ceramic. If they’re doing it properly, they most likely had the truck for 2 days. 

3. Once your prep work is complete, in your case, you’re talking wet sanding and final polish...the entire hull will have to be wiped with an isopropyl/water mix to remove any and all oils left over from the polishes, other wise the ceramic will not bond properly to the gel coat or paint. That being said, you CAN NOT apply ceramic over a wax, the surface must be properly prepped and wiped down before application. Once the ceramic has cured (24 hours) feel free to apply a wax on top. However, at this point it will be just for fun or extra pop and slickness. The ceramic is doing all the heavy lifting 

4. You can apply the ceramic to the entire hull, console, engine and slicks. Personally, I’m not brave enough to try it on my nonskids, lol. Once cured, it is extremely hydrophobic and slick. I’ll bet it’s an ACL or meniscus tear waiting to happen, lol. 

Hope that helps!

Mark


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## Vincent A Sawchuk (Jan 29, 2019)

Water Bound said:


> For the hull- Starbrite Polish w/ PTEF 3 times a year. Easy wipe on, wipe off. It’s great stuff!
> 
> Topside-
> Every 3 or 4 trips, Starbrite Deck Cleaner w/ PTEF
> ...


Link to pressure washer with built-in reservoir, please.


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## Water Bound (Dec 12, 2018)

I put a couple caps of the Wash n wax in the reservoir then fill it with water. 

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Greenworks...old-Water-Electric-Pressure-Washer/1000731276



Vincent A Sawchuk said:


> Link to pressure washer with built-in reservoir, please.


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## SomaliPirate (Feb 5, 2016)

Star Brite boat wash and a brush after every trip, hose down trailer. Woody Wax the nonskid about every 4th trip and wax everything else twice a year with Star Brite polish. I use the gel version of Bar Keeper's friend on stubborn stains, but it strips wax so you have to rewax after you use it. I spray Corrosion X heavy duty on anything not galvanized on the trailer 2 or 3 times a year.


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## Vincent A Sawchuk (Jan 29, 2019)

Water Bound said:


> I put a couple caps of the Wash n wax in the reservoir then fill it with water.
> 
> https://www.lowes.com/pd/Greenworks...old-Water-Electric-Pressure-Washer/1000731276


Thanks I'm going to add this to my cleaning schedule!


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## topnative2 (Feb 22, 2009)

nu-finish..........you will be surprised


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## SHO-Nuff (Oct 26, 2019)

To summarize all the previous posts, regularly wash and maintain you boat to keep it looking great. Everyone has their "favorite" product that is "magic" on a boat. 

Boat maintenance is simple, but time consuming. I stick to using marine/boat specific products. I choose mostly Starbrite, but not only them. Woody Wax "Wash N Wax" is a great boat soap as is Orpine "Wash N Wax." As mentioned before, Starbrite Non Skid deck cleaner is amazing, just read and follow the directions, seriously read the directions. I'm not a fan of Woody Wax on non skid, I prefer Starbrite Non Skid Wax's longevity. Aluma Guard, is amazing on your aluminum, Stainless gets waxed. For wax, Maguires or Starbrite carnauba on paint and Collinite Insulator for gel coat. But, you have to apply wax to a smooth base. If your finish looks rough then do a 3 step compound/polish/wax. Vinyl conditioner on your soft goods after a good cleaning. But the best advice I saw in the above posts is to chamois your boat after each cleaning. Water, even fresh, is full of minerals and other things that are not good for your boat's finish. And to who ever recommends using Dawn, Bar Keepers Friend or bleach on boats, boat detailers appreciate your business.

The ceramic products, when applied by a professional, work amazing for about 18-24 months. You must follow directions supplied by professional applicator for cleaning. Use ONLY their recommended cleaning products after application.


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## trekker (Sep 19, 2015)

Wash it often.


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## SomaliPirate (Feb 5, 2016)

trekker said:


> Wash it often.
> 
> View attachment 114944


Nope...just no.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

trekker said:


> Wash it often.
> 
> View attachment 114944


Yikes


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

Jumbo Jet said:


> Sonax is a German manufacturer of high end detailing products. Their Spray and Seal is a new synthetic sealant that is as simple as “spray on, rinse off”. No buffing is required at all. It is activated with water and bonds instantly with the surface once rinsed. I wash and rinse with an electric pressure washer (Kranzle), but a hose wand works just as well. I use Spray and Seal on the trailer as well. Wash the vehicle/boat like usual and rinse. Leave it wet, apply Sonax Spray and Seal over the section you wish to treat, and rinse immediately. I use a gas powered leaf blower to dry the car/boat, leaving the surface 90% dry, then use a waffle weave towel to dry the remaining water.
> 
> https://www.sonaxusa.com/spray-sealant.html
> 
> ...


Love the whole idea of a Ceramic coating on my skiff. I'm definitely going to check it out.

While I was doing some digging, I found this video on a new Ceramic spray coating by Turtlewax that can either work as a maintenance coating over the original coating (supposively better than Sonax) that can either be sprayed over a Ceramic application during routine maintenance, to add ceramics to the original coating, or it can be added over a good wax coating. I'm going to try this one too.


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## Capt. Moose (Dec 12, 2015)




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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

Capt. Moose said:


>


And I suppose you have a better solution.


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## BobGee (Apr 10, 2019)

Backwater said:


> Love the whole idea of a Ceramic coating on my skiff. I'm definitely going to check it out.
> 
> While I was doing some digging, I found this video on a new Ceramic spray coating by Turtlewax that can either work as a maintenance coating over the original coating (supposively better than Sonax) that can either be sprayed over a Ceramic application during routine maintenance, to add ceramics to the original coating, or it can be added over a good wax coating. I'm going to try this one too.


It would be great if that works well. Keep us posted.


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

BobGee said:


> It would be great if that works well. Keep us posted.


Boat is in the shop now getting lots of custom re-fit stuff done. it's also getting the gelcoat wet sanded, stepping down from 1000grit, 1500 and then to 2000 and getting seriously machine buff down from there. Had kicked around the idea of even doing several coats of clear acrilic or something like that. But I'm going to try the professional grade of the ceramic that Jumbo Jet is posting, unless I find something better between now and then (probably about 4-8wks from now). I'll post some stuff up after completed. Going to also do a Line-X smooth keel guard before the ceramic. The Turtle Wax spray-on Ceramic Coating was just something I can add and maintain the Professional grade or Lite liquid Ceramic by Gtechniq. So I'm ordering the Turtle Wax Ceramic to try it out on one of my vehicles to see how it does (I'm always looking for low maintenance help).


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## Jumbo Jet (Mar 18, 2018)

Backwater said:


> Boats in the shop now getting lots of custom re-fit stuff done. Boat is getting wet sanded, stepping down from 1000grit, 1500 and then to 2000 and getting seriously machine buff down from there. HAd kicked around the idea of even doing several coats of clear acrilic or something like that. But I'm going to try the professional grade of the ceramic that Jumbo Jet is posting, unless I find something better between now and then (probably about 4-8wks from now). I post some stuff up after completed. Going to also do a Line-X smooth keel guard before the ceramic.


Best of luck! Excited to hear and see your results.


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

Jumbo Jet said:


> Best of luck! Excited to hear and see your results.


Update, talk to someone at an authorized car detail shop that is a customer for the Pro version of Gtechniq Pro version of the Crystal Serum Ultra ceramic coating He said he tried doing a preped sanded and buffed out gelcoat on a boat and it took about 5 times the serum and also took 5 times as long, curing each coat a day. He says he'll never do that again, because gelgoat is too porous for the stuff. 

So I spoke to someone at Gtechnig today and he says sure you can use the "Lite," But the better solution for boats, saltwater and gelcoat is either C1 or even better, the C0v2 Aero Coat and claims it states can be used on gelcoat. https://usa.gtechniq.com/products/auto/protect/exterior/paint/c0v2-aero-coat

But then he said that they are releasing a new Marine specific formula that has some properties of the C0v2 Aero Coat, but adds another element and also ceramics. But it's a 2 step, 2 layer process of a base coat and a top coat. But it's about twice the price as Aero and will be released on their website in a week or 2. So it's the "Marine" formula.

So while we are on this tangent off the OP, has anyone had their gelcoat sanded, buffed and prepped, then clear coated (with layers even) with a high end acrylic or enamel paint and had any success with it?


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## Jumbo Jet (Mar 18, 2018)

Backwater said:


> Update, talk to someone at an authorized car detail shop that is a customer for the Pro version of Gtechniq Pro version of the Crystal Serum Ultra ceramic coating He said he tried doing a preped sanded and buffed out gelcoat on a boat and it took about 5 times the serum and also took 5 times as long, curing each coat a day. He says he'll never do that again, because gelgoat is too porous for the stuff.
> 
> So I spoke to someone at Gtechnig today and he says sure you can use the "Lite," But the better solution for boats, saltwater and gelcoat is either C1 or even better, the C0v2 Aero Coat and claims it states can be used on gelcoat. https://usa.gtechniq.com/products/auto/protect/exterior/paint/c0v2-aero-coat
> 
> ...


Great info! Thanks so much for sharing


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## Chasingreds (Apr 1, 2019)

I know this is an older post, but was curious if anyone had a recommendation they use for rust removal? Have some rust lines around my stainless on the stern.


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## BobGee (Apr 10, 2019)

Chasingreds said:


> I know this is an older post, but was curious if anyone had a recommendation they use for rust removal? Have some rust lines around my stainless on the stern.


Wink Rust Stain Remover.


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## BobGee (Apr 10, 2019)

BobGee said:


> Wink Rust Stain Remover.


Spelled Whink


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## OSoloskiffy (Aug 14, 2018)

TX_Brad said:


> Where do you apply the coating? Do you do the whole hull and top side, or only areas that won't see water (above water line)?


You can apply this anywhere you think you might need it. Watch where you apply it. It will be very slick especially when water is added in. Even if salt water hits it.


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

WylanB said:


> I've been thinking about ceramic coating my next skiff. Is it really worth the $1.2-$1.5K? How long does it last?


I got Hybrid Solutions ceramic wax by Turtle Wax, $14 save some money and do it yourself


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