# Lower unit mangled



## anytide (Jul 30, 2009)

lpg said:


> Wasnt able to logon via my old username(lawrenceg I think), but anyways made this account
> 
> Pretty sure I destroyed my lower unit this morning... went bonefishing (still havent boated one) out of blackpoint.
> 
> ...


sorry to hear that, could just be the drive shaft tip / pinion gear ?
save your money.........

send me your old username/ email and i'll check into it.


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## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

The outfit I use is SeaPower and I recommend them highly. They'll have to tear into it before being able to give you a quote....
(305) 238-1386

Here's something that most don't know about.... Most marine insurance policies cover "underwater hazards" - Keep your account as simple as possible and you might just be covered..... Good luck - a master mechanic back in the late seventies encouraged me to file a claim when I tore up a lower unit... Surprise, surprise -it was fully covered...


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Doesn't sound cheap. To me, it sounds like a twisted drive shaft.


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## timemachine (Sep 1, 2014)

maybe pull the bottom off and try to see what is buggered up. I would scan ebay for the parts.


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## lpg (Sep 1, 2015)

will report back when I have a chance to open it up, really scared to see the damage. 

snook season just opened down here and Im boatless


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Mine cost $1,500 to rebuild the lower unit


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

permitchaser said:


> Mine cost $1,500 to rebuild the lower unit


But it took your mechanic 3 attempts to fix it and then stole it from you...lol


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## Capt. Eli Whidden (Jun 7, 2012)

Eric's Outboards in Miami might be able to help. Could be an easy fix or a costly one. Good luck.


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

My lower unit was sent to Tampa or St Pete to have the shaft straightened and all new gears. All dogs were smooth or broken teeth. The previous owner must not have waited for the engine to get to 500 rpms. I have been told not to baby a shift but jam that baby in gear


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## MariettaMike (Jun 14, 2012)

DuckNut said:


> Doesn't sound cheap. To me, it sounds like a twisted drive shaft.


BOAT= Bring Out Another Thousand

http://shop2.evinrude.com/Index.aspx?s1=lp11ub2m5140ld30dfr0uah094&catalog_id=0&siteid=1

Not sure that would explain the engine running rough. Maybe the flywheel could have spun or twisted on the crank to move the timing off? Or its just running rough because of the drag caused by the grinding gears.

Either problem is more expensive than just straightening a propeller and/or propeller shaft if you had just left it in gear and trimmed up before coming off the throttle.


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## lpg (Sep 1, 2015)

quoted around 1900 for a rebuild in shop..or I think around 2700 + labor for new

tough decision, as shop rebuild is 30 day warranty, vs new, with one year.... worried about saving money now to have it break down in the middle of the everglades.


if I have a LU rebuilt by a good shop, should I be worried about a failure? Its SeaPower, as Bob and many recommend..


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## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

Did you file a claim with your insurance? That damage should be covered by a normal policy....


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

lpg said:


> Wasnt able to logon via my old username(lawrenceg I think), but anyways made this account
> 
> Pretty sure I destroyed my lower unit this morning... went bonefishing (still havent boated one) out of blackpoint.
> 
> ...



I love Mikes reply - - -> B.O.A.T...... LOL Luv that reminder!

THIS is why I always tell peeps to "slow Down" and observe waters real closely that you are unfamiliar with, for this very reason! I even recommend to hit those new areas when the tide is dead low and the water is gin clear (like on a calm winter low tide day when the fish are not biting as well) and do your exploring then. That way you can get a fix on all the "real" channels and sight in any obstacles. Do that especially if you're going to make this your new home waters or will be back to fish it frequently. Otherwise, in an area you just visit occasionally or a one shot trip, just slow down and watch your bottom and bottom colors for immediate changes (aside from depth on your recorder) instead of driving around with your head in the clouds! You'll save your lower unit and keep from damaging the reef or grass flats as so many dummies do! I'll also tell you I've heard of people completely ripping the outboard off the boat (destroying the whole outboard) and damaging their transom. That's also where operating a boat and alcohol doesn't mix very well either, especially in unknown turf.

There is a possibility that you just spun a prop if there is no apparent physical damage to the lower unit like scratches, dings or breakage or even the prop itself. If the lower unit is clean, then it might just be that, a spun prop. Check to make sure no lower unit fluid is leaking or seeping out from the prop area. Newer props have a built in "fuse" that is made out of a rubber bushing and can sound like heck when it happens. It basically helps keep the lower unit shaft and gears from being completely destroyed if you hit something and the prop suddenly stops but the shaft keeps turning. Once it happens, any revving up the rpms will cause it to rattle and vibrate. But an low rpm idle will allow you to limp on back home. An all out destroyed LU may not have even allow you to limp back home on an idle.

If you believe this is the case, try removing the prop and replacing it with a spare. Remove the cotter pin. Take a 2x4 piece of wood and place it between the prop blades and the skeg. Take a socket and a breaker bar and remove the nut and washers. Next slide the prop off and check closely around the seals to make sure there is no leakage. The LU fluid will feel like thick oil and can be in a variety of colors, depending on what brand, how old it is and if there is water mixed in it. If it's clean aside from the normal prop grease, then go ahead and replace with a new or spare prop and install it back the same way you took it off. I would also check your LU fluid to make sure it's not milky, which is a sign of seal damage and water intrusion. If it is, then seal replacement is not that expensive if nothing else is damaged. At that point, you can take the spun prop in to a prop shop to have a new rubber bushing installed and the prop checked for further damage. They can usually fix any prop. If you don't know of a good prop shop, let me know and I'll get you the name of a good prop shop here that you can send it to so they can rehab it.

If your lower unit has serious apparent damage on it, you may want to price out a new replacement. I happen to live close to a good on-line marine parts house that also allows walk-in traffic. They are very competitive and can price out just about any part you need. Here's there link.

http://parts.promarineusa.com/CGI-BIN/LANSAWEB?WEBEVENT+L8C392417331507015F6403K+M50+ENG

Believe it or not, a lower unit is pretty easy to remove if you are mechanically incline. There are some youtube vids on how to do it if you want to tackle it on your own and order your new replacement parts, then re-assemble. Otherwise, do what Capt LeMay said and take it to a reliable mechanic and get an estimate.

Ted


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## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

If a pro does your lower unit it should be as good as new.... Just don't tear it up again. Most aren't aware that grounding out also rules out any warranty claim on a new motor - something to think about. That insurance claim is the thing most never think of (if you're insured....).


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## lpg (Sep 1, 2015)

lemaymiami said:


> If a pro does your lower unit it should be as good as new.... Just don't tear it up again. Most aren't aware that grounding out also rules out any warranty claim on a new motor - something to think about. That insurance claim is the thing most never think of (if you're insured....).


Ended up getting the sled back on Friday. Rebuild of lower and service came out to around $2200.

Still waiting on Progressive insurance as to whether it will be covered...

Took it out this morning to Flamingo and it ran fine.Some snook, reds and (almost) a tarpon. Nice to be back in the game.

Seapower in Miami was great. Eric at the front desk put up with me and all my calls, and got me back on the water pretty quick.


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## RunningOnEmpty (Jun 20, 2015)

$2200 is a lot of money! I also have Progressive on my boat. I even pay extra for this sort of thing and was wondering if it's worth it?


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## lpg (Sep 1, 2015)

RunningOnEmpty said:


> $2200 is a lot of money! I also have Progressive on my boat. I even pay extra for this sort of thing and was wondering if it's worth it?


Including service. Also had a coil replaced, about $100 and a new "neutral switch" whatever that is....

It is what it is, thats why you try to work with a good shop that you trust..


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## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

A n neutral safety switch prevents you from starting a motor when the shifter is in gear.... When it starts to go bad you end up having to play with the shifter to be able to start the motor (and once it's bad you can't engage the starter at all....).
My experience with Seapower (and Eric and everyone that works there) has always been first rate as well.


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## jamarcusray (Nov 20, 2014)

I honestly had an awful experience at SeaPower this past spring with a repower. I will spare you the details (PM me if you really want to know), but I have chosen to take my business up to Dusky in the future.


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## lpg (Sep 1, 2015)

jamarcusray said:


> I honestly had an awful experience at SeaPower this past spring with a repower. I will spare you the details (PM me if you really want to know), but I have chosen to take my business up to Dusky in the future.



Well, happy to say, put about 70 miles on the boat today in the backcountry of the glades. With a 30 day warranty, wanted to make sure it would hold up.

Jamarcus, sent you a PM. Interested in what happened, couldn't have been happier with them. Maybe not the cheapest but my boat seems good as new.


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## jamarcusray (Nov 20, 2014)

lpg said:


> Well, happy to say, put about 70 miles on the boat today in the backcountry of the glades. With a 30 day warranty, wanted to make sure it would hold up.
> 
> Jamarcus, sent you a PM. Interested in what happened, couldn't have been happier with them. Maybe not the cheapest but my boat seems good as new.


I just responded to your PM. I'm glad you were able to get it fixed quickly.


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