# Jack Tar Ducking Skiff paint



## Guest (Oct 21, 2018)

Well, I’m not Ducknut but...
If applying over gelcoat no primer is needed really.
Wash boat with dawn and rinse thouroughly.
Wipe with wax and grease remover
Sand with 220-320 thouroughly and
Wipe with wax and grease remover again.
Manufacturer states thinning not recommended, so don’t thin.
Manufacturer states dry film thickness should be just over 2mils so 2-3 thin coats ahould do it.


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## Back Country (Dec 30, 2017)

Sounds good. Thank you, sir!


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## Guest (Oct 21, 2018)

You are welcome!


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

That is exactly it. Make sure all grease and wax is off.

It is oil based paint so it is very thin and I have found the small 4" rollers are all that is needed.

It the paint is ever scuffed up sand and repaint.

DEP have a good degreaser, available at big box store.

While you are buying the degreaser buy a drill bit mixer because the solvent will be settled on the bottom. I like the one that looks like a fan, not a paddle blade.


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## Back Country (Dec 30, 2017)

I checked the big box websites: Zep offers several different degreasers (Industrial Purple, Fast 505, Heavy-Duty Citrus, All-Purpose). Is it the Industrial Purple that you use or one of the others?


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## Guest (Oct 21, 2018)

Just give it a good wash and rinse with original Dawn dish liquid.

I follow this with a mix of 1part acetone, 2parts distilled water, 2parts isopropyl alchohol.
This recipie is my own for wax and grease remover. It just works! 
The industrial purple is good stuff, but make sure you rinse several times.


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## Guest (Oct 21, 2018)

Put the acetone/alchohol solution in a cheap spray bottle, get a box of cheap cotton rags, spray/wipe, repeat using as many clean rags as you need/can! I use this method even when applying gelcoat which is way overkill for gelcoat but critical when applying high end paints! 99% prep work, 1% applying the coating!


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## Back Country (Dec 30, 2017)

This is great, Boatbrains, I'll give it a try. One thing I like about it is that I already have the all the stuff to mix up the solution. I learned many years ago (the hard way) that any time you're going to apply a finish to a surface, if you don't do the prep properly, you're pretty much wasting your time and money.... hence all the questions. Thanks again!


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## Guest (Oct 21, 2018)

No problem, I think many of us have learned those tough lessons. But hey, we learned! That solution is basically the same stuff that is in the $15 qt wax and grease removers that are on the shelf.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Doesn't really matter but I keep purple on hand.

Key point being to get the grease, oil, wax off by whatever means it takes.

Buy rags like BB said and get them through the wash machine - DO NOT use dryer sheets.


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## Back Country (Dec 30, 2017)

Thanks to both you guys; this has been a huge help!


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## Guest (Oct 22, 2018)

Well... get it painted and we wanna see pics as ya go!


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

DuckNut said:


> Doesn't really matter but I keep purple on hand.
> 
> Key point being to get the grease, oil, wax off by whatever means it takes.
> 
> Buy rags like BB said and get them through the wash machine - DO NOT use dryer sheets.


Curious about the dryer sheets - can you explain?


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## Guest (Oct 22, 2018)

yobata said:


> Curious about the dryer sheets - can you explain?


You should wash and dry your rags before using and dryer sheets “WILL” leave a residue on the rags that can cause paint failure such as bubbles, lifting/peeling, and fish eyes in your finish.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

yobata said:


> Curious about the dryer sheets - can you explain?


There is a chemical on them that melts in your dryer and is like a wax. Using these will put a residue on your hull.

This residue also builds up in dryer vents and traps lint and clogs vents. The result is your dryer takes longer to dry and even a potential fire hazard.

Feel the difference between a new one and a used one. The difference is on whatever was dried.


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## Back Country (Dec 30, 2017)

I’m resurrecting this thread because I’ve got a few more questions for those of you with far more experience have than I have. It’s been a long slow process getting the Gheenoe back in shape …. weather, work, family obligations, all the things that typically can slow down a project. Very soon I’ll be at the point where I can begin painting the boat.

I understand that I can apply my Jack Tar to gelcoat that’s been prepped properly, and without using a primer. I’ve got a gallon of paint and I’ll only be painting the upper part of the outer hull (bottom will be epoxy & graphite). I’m going to have a fair amount of paint left over, and I figured I would use in for the inside of the boat too.

So, after all that yammering, here are my questions:

1. The inside of the boat is covered in glass with epoxy resin. Do I need a primer? Based on what I’ve been reading about System Three Silvertip Yacht Primer, it seems to fit the bill. Yay or nay? System Three recommends trying test strips of paint on their primer, which of course I can’t do unless I buy the primer first. Anyone with first-hand experience on this combo of primer and paint?


2. I’ve got some semi-gloss white Rustoleum Topside left over from another project, and I thought that I might mix it with the Jack Tar olive drab to make the inside of the boat a lighter shade of green; both are alkyd enamels. Will this work?


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## Guest (Apr 10, 2019)

Back Country said:


> I’m resurrecting this thread because I’ve got a few more questions for those of you with far more experience have than I have. It’s been a long slow process getting the Gheenoe back in shape …. weather, work, family obligations, all the things that typically can slow down a project. Very soon I’ll be at the point where I can begin painting the boat.
> 
> I understand that I can apply my Jack Tar to gelcoat that’s been prepped properly, and without using a primer. I’ve got a gallon of paint and I’ll only be painting the upper part of the outer hull (bottom will be epoxy & graphite). I’m going to have a fair amount of paint left over, and I figured I would use in for the inside of the boat too.
> 
> ...


I can’t recommend mixing the paints, but before ya do and potentially trash goo material try mixing an oz of each then painting on something. They should be fine but one might have something in it that affects the other.


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## BassFlats (Nov 26, 2018)

Some people say you don't need to prime epoxy. It may be true, but I always use a primer compatible with the topcoat. You might be able to mix the Rustoleum with the Jack Tar. But, I would buy a pint of the Rustoleum green to mix in to be safe.


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## Guest (Apr 10, 2019)

I will add to @BassFlats suggestion on priming. Priming first will fill/cover any pinholes and show imperfections that you might want to fix before top coating. I like a high build primer for this purpose myself.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Back Country said:


> So, after all that yammering, here are my questions:


1: I am going to be blunt so take it as that. System 3 is what ($100+) a gallon. If they had paint failure the customers would not be happy and write bad reviews. You are painting for a utility function, not a yacht finish. I have never used primer with anything I have painted with this paint.

2: Mix a little and try it. What is the worst that will happen. You will have plenty from the gallon left over to repaint if you don't like it.

That paint has stuck great on everything I have used it on. My motor needed repainting a couple years ago and it was covered in grease from the grease points, covered in anti corrosion spray. I sprayed it down with the degreaser and pressure washed it clean. Clean at this point was a relative word because I could still feel grease residue. I then painted it. It is still sticking for about 5 years with only a couple small chips that came off. I did not care because it is a duck boat and used as such. If I wanted a yacht finish I would have used a completely different product.

I made a layout boat out of epoxy and painted it with this paint. It stuck very well except for the places I did not get all of the blush off. I cleaned, scuffed and repainted - worked just fine.

I am lazy when it comes to painting. The first coat should be thin and the second heavier. I just paint like I am going to cover it in one coat. 2 days later I do a second the same way.

You can't mess this up, it is probably the most forgiving paint there is. Remember, this is industrial paint, not box store paint.


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## Back Country (Dec 30, 2017)

Thanks, DuckNut, I was hoping to hear from you because I know you've used this paint a lot. You de Man!


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