# FS18 topsides done



## JoshW (Mar 17, 2007)

On to the bottom, as soon as I can rally the troops to get her flipped over.  Should be any day...er, week now.

























































Soon...

Josh


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## deerfly (Mar 10, 2007)

looks really great, what kind of finish did you use?


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## Cracka (Jul 1, 2007)

That was quick Eric, I looked at the piccies, logged in and there was your Q.

Also Josh what did you use for the non-slip.  These close up photos are great the finish looks real nice.  That sump in the rear of the cockpit, how did you go about that, if you don't mind me asking.  Also, looking in the rear hatch, it appears (could be just optical illusion too) there is a boxed in section part way across the transom, is that so.

Mick


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## JoshW (Mar 17, 2007)

Man ya'll are pickin ma bote apart 

Deerfly-the paint is actually Lowe's Porch/Floor Enamel. I had it tinted to a color of my preference. I had started out with the intention of using Interlux Brightsides for the deck/cockpit, got the cockpit done, and realized I didn't want to spend the money (probably $120+ ) to paint the deck/cockpit, so I switched to Lowe's Valspar Porch/FLoor enamel at $20/gallon, rather than the interlux at $40/pint 

Cracka-I would avoid the sump drain in the back if I were doing it again. I'd run a couple drains on either side of the rear cockpit, as close to the sole as possible, without recessing them into the floor. My sump looks like crap, too small an area to get into and sand effectively, so it's pretty rough. My intention with that boxed off area between the transom knees was to have the cockpit drain go to there, with a bilge pump mounted in there to pump it out. Now I think I'm just going to go with an inline bilge pump on the tube that comes from the cockpit drain, then to a through hull fitting to dump overboard. No need to have loose water in there in retrospect. 
As to the non-skid, it is an aggregate they sell in small cans at Lowe's. After Priming, I simply taped off the area's I did not want non-skid'd, painted the non-taped areas, then used a large salt shaker loaded with the aggregate to apply the non-skid. After you get the non-skid right (might take a couple coats/reapplications), pull the tape off and paint over the entire surface several times, till everything is uniform.

EZPZ ;D

Josh


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## Cracka (Jul 1, 2007)

Awesome mate.  Yeah the sump idea sounds a bit too complex, I'll take on board your idea with just 2 drains into a bilge area.  I was thinking of puting a sole in that rear area as well as the area between frames B and C, not sure if it will add too much weight just in 6mm.  

By the way, did you use 6mm for the cockpit sole, if so, did you glass 1 or both sides for strength.  Either way to do you get any spring in it.

Hope you don't mind the Q's.   

Mick

P.S can't wait to see it finished


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## deerfly (Mar 10, 2007)

> That was quick Eric, I looked at the piccies, logged in and there was your Q. Mick


regardless of what you may here from other sources, timing is everything.


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## JoshW (Mar 17, 2007)

I'd take it even a step further and eliminate the bilge area altogether. I'd run drain pipes from the cockpit drain fittings along the sides of the hull (out of the way)back to the transom and terminate them with some one way thru hull valve fittings. I think that would be a much better and foolproof setup than relying on a bilge pump. Maybe figure out a way to plumb in a bilge pump as well, as a backup, but rely on a non-mechanical setup as your primary means of clearing the cockpit.

YOU can't wait to see it done? HA! I've been dealing with this thing (off and on, mostly off) for over a year now!


Josh


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## deerfly (Mar 10, 2007)

> Deerfly-the paint is actually Lowe's Porch/Floor Enamel.Josh


the reason I asked, well one reason anyway  was I just used this stuff below on a little prototype poling platform for my Hi-Sider and I am not happy with the durability of the enamel. I sprinkled the non-skid into a wet coat as well and I am very happy with that as an application technique as well as the resulting texture. But the adhesion to the West System epoxy was not very good. After curing for 4 days and then one boating trip with my tiller exstention bungied to the platform, the finish wore through to the epoxy. You can scrape more away with your fingernail without too much effort as well. I realize you didn't use this enamel, but I'm posting this as a note to others that may be tempted to try this "budget" marine finish. I didn't use a primer and that may have helped. Next time though I'll use a catalyzed finish for something that gets high wear like this. True it costs more up front but I think the long term durability is well worth it.


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## Cracka (Jul 1, 2007)

Yeah not a bad idea either I suppose it would have to be a decent size though, what 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" diameter pipe and fittings if you happened to get a dump over the front and put a fair bit of water in.

How is your cockpit sole?

Mick


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## JoshW (Mar 17, 2007)

What kind of epoxy did you coat the wood with, and how did you prep that surface prior to painting? I'd bet you've got epoxy blush (amine) on the surface of the platform between the epoxy and the paint. Just something to consider.


Josh


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## JoshW (Mar 17, 2007)

Cracka-
Sole is 1/4" okoume ply, filled with foam underneath. 

Josh


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## Cracka (Jul 1, 2007)

Did you glass it Josh or just epoxy. Do you get any spring with the 1/4".

Mick.


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## deerfly (Mar 10, 2007)

> What kind of epoxy did you coat the wood with, and how did you prep that surface prior to painting? I'd bet you've got epoxy blush (amine) on the surface of the platform between the epoxy and the paint. Just something to consider. Josh


West System 105+206 hardener. I sanded the whole thing with 120grit using a random orbital sander, blew the dust off with compressed air and wiped it down with acetone and finally a dry clean cloth before applying any finish.


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## JoshW (Mar 17, 2007)

Finally got the first coat of paint on the hull itself.  Went on remarkably easy, more so than I anticipated.  Look pretty decent to boot.
Two more coats of paint, flip and rig, and she should be done. 

Josh


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## MATT (Apr 30, 2007)

Josh, Don't let Capt Ron see this post or wet test your boat.


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## JoshW (Mar 17, 2007)

> Josh, Don't let Capt Ron see this post or wet test your boat.


 :-?


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## deerfly (Mar 10, 2007)

looks really great, I can't wait to see it in the water and slimed.  You must be pretty excited to be this close to finishing it too eh?


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## Cracka (Jul 1, 2007)

Josh she is looking great mate, you're real close now.  Mate, I'm excited I can only imagine how you feel, I bet you can't wait to get it in the water, I can't!!!!!! [smiley=1-biggrin.gif]

It looks like you got a great finish, did you roll and tip?

Mick.


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## flyfshrmn82 (Oct 12, 2007)

Looks tippy  

Nice job man. Impressive. [smiley=1-beer-german.gif]


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