# Trailer recommendation?



## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

I’d check with the member that builds custom welded aluminum trailers on here. His work looks great! I think his thread was “Decided to Build a Trailer”.


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## SomaliPirate (Feb 5, 2016)

B&S Trailers in Reddick builds good stuff.


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## nautilott (Oct 29, 2017)

I have an '17 aluminum AmeraTrail dry launch trailer that came with the Cayo 173. The boat sits low on the trailer which makes for an easy solo dry launch/load platform.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

I appreciate the general recommendations, but some of these trailers I'm finding are 3k plus. I might need to lower my expectations. The biggest concern is fitting it in the garage. If I need to go with leaf springs so be it. And I can swap the LED lights off my trailer too. I really need to be around $1500 or less as I found out the outboard will run atleast $1500 more then I hoped.


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

I like galvanized steel.
I don't like float-ons.
I don't like torsion axles.
I do like break-frames.
If there is no swing tongue, a slide-out will do.
I've launched 19 foot whalers without getting the hubs wet.

Your opinion may vary, it's allowed.

Give B&G trailers in DeLand a call.
They can at least give you a quote for your requirements.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

Brett, for some reason the price of steel has gone up. For continental or majic tilts..... the same model in aluminum is only a few hundred more now. Weird.

I like my break/tilt frame now, but they are getting harder to find, and really hard to find for a sizable v hull.

As far as a slide out goes, I'm all for it, but when I've asked local shops they all seem confused, or out right refuse to do it because of liability blah blah.... I'd rather a slide out/extendable tongue then a swing kit.


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## topnative2 (Feb 22, 2009)

I put a Floaton w/ a swing tongue on my 20' willy roberts ......they custom fit it


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

Prices?


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## topnative2 (Feb 22, 2009)

I honestly do not remember and my stuff is in storage.
Call them direct......


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

Yeah, anything marine related is automatically marked up by 30%.
Luxury items I guess.
Nice thing about break frames with the long inverted U channel,
the tongue can be disconnected and pulled out
while the hull is undisturbed on the trailer.
The pivot bolt is all that holds it in place.
Done that with a 17 foot whaler in a short garage.


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## formerWAflyfisher (Sep 5, 2008)

If your buying new I really think your going to have a hard time finding anything within that price range. If your buying new make sure you specify SS parts as well. If your building a new skiff, it might be worth while to spend a few more dollars to get a well made trailer. I currently have a RamLin under my HB and I have to say I do not think it’s worth the money. If I ever replace it, it’ll be from BoatMaster again. I’ve had continentals, magic tilts, shorelamders etc etc. for the money the best made trailer I owned by far was From Boatmaster. It was custome built, all SS parts and a dropped torsion axle. 2650 took about 2-3 weeks. That price was with some upgrades I wanted.


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## Indy (Aug 21, 2015)

I have a Competitor by BoatMaster. It was built for my Lostmen. All ss parts. I think it was around 2000.00. Nice trailer


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## Indy (Aug 21, 2015)




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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Check with owens and sons aka slide on, they built the trailer for my 18x60 flat, was priced right.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

So I've been calling around and not getting far with the company's listed. Problem is most of them are made to well. Even if I chose to spend the money they are made with the I beams carried all the way to the front with the winch stand behind the joint in most cases. So only a short swing tongue if any could be used. 

I need to get a "cheaper" trailer that has the main frame terminate under the hull and the tongue extending several feet in front. Obviously it's not as good a trailer, but it will get the job done the way I need.

After calling around it looks like my best options will be another continental. I just gotta choose between galvanized or aluminum frame.


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## SomaliPirate (Feb 5, 2016)

firecat1981 said:


> So I've been calling around and not getting far with the company's listed. Problem is most of them are made to well. Even if I chose to spend the money they are made with the I beams carried all the way to the front with the winch stand behind the joint in most cases. So only a short swing tongue if any could be used.
> 
> I need to get a "cheaper" trailer that has the main frame terminate under the hull and the tongue extending several feet in front. Obviously it's not as good a trailer, but it will get the job done the way I need.
> 
> After calling around it looks like my best options will be another continental. I just gotta choose between galvanized or aluminum frame.


I went with an off the shelf galvanized Continental last year. It's pretty good for a basic trailer, it's just been a process getting it set up the way I want it. I want to say TA Mahoney charged me like 1200 out the door for it.


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## Zika (Aug 6, 2015)

Not cheap, but I've been very satisfied with the quality and build of my Rolls Axle aluminum.

rollsaxle.com


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

I have a continental from TA Mahoneys now, it's been decent.

See my first post, no Rolls Axles. Had a bad experience a while back.


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## Zika (Aug 6, 2015)

Missed that reference. Sorry to hear that. I've owned three with no regrets.


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## windblows (May 21, 2014)

Try First Coast Trailers. Worth a try. Reseller of a couple brands.
Address: 3950 Lewis Speedway, St Augustine, FL 32084
Phone: (904) 460-1177


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

alum boat trailers are either I beam or box beam. most of the less expensive ones are box beam. If I could not swing an I beam one or it didn't work for the swing tongue I would rather have a galvanized trailer than a box beam aluminum one. Have heard of them bending.


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## Gatorgrizz27 (Apr 4, 2015)

It might be worth checking your local welding shop if you plan on a dry launch trailer. I’m building one with top of the line parts for $900 doing the welding myself. 

Removable tongue, 2000 lb winch, 1500 lb jack, walk boards, 3500 lb drop axle, 15” wheels, led lights, boat buckles, rear roller, guide bunks, etc. 

Obviously cold-galvanized or painted mild steel isn’t going to last long term if it’s getting dunked in saltwater, but I except it will be just fine with dry launching.


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## State fish rob (Jan 25, 2017)

Used float on brand , not just generic “float on”. For 1500 +- youll prolly have some work to do. Float on are aluminun and stainless steel. Easy to break down. Never needed the electric torch 
Good luck!


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

If you're hoping to find a new aluminum trailer that meets all your specs for $1500, you're doomed to be disappointed. You may find something used in your price range, but good new ones are going to start at around $2500 and go up. 

I second the recommendation for B&S Trailers in Reddick. I have one of their torsion axle trailers under my 18' Seaark.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

Devrep, the last one I tried was not even box, it was C-channel aluminum, it twisted as soon as I put the skiff on it. That's why I won't do business with Rolls Axle again.

Gator, I don't have the time or space to weld up my own now. And this boat won't be able to be dry launched all the time.

Rob, I'd only do a used trailer at this point as a last resort. Last one I bought I had to as much into that a new one made more sense. And I'm not looking for anything fancy, but if I find a good deal I'll considerived it.

Vertigo, I don't really care if it's aluminum. In fact I'd prefer galvanized as it's easier for me to modify the way I need. I already checked B&S they can't do what I need.

I'm pretty set now. Another continental looks like the way to go. The aluminum A1820 or galvanized Blazer 1720, will run $1750 or $1475. I can live with that.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

Back in the hunt after delays put this all on hold. I looked for a nice used trailer for a while but found nothing but expensive junk.
Best bet I've found is Magic Tilt. I can get a basic aluminum for $1900, or galvanized for $1500. Not sure which way I'll go, but since I'm not sold on keeping the boat more then a few years I don't want to invest to much.


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## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

Make a point of looking at an EZ Loader trailer in galvanized... That's what I've run for years and years. Galvanized with oil bath hubs and basic leaf spring setup..... The best part is that they're all bolt together components and with a schematic you can replace a crossmember (or any other part) with just a set of wrenches...

You'll note that all the new Egrets come on them. My current one is 14 years old now with 20,000 to 24,000 miles a year on it... and I've never had to change bearings out - not ever (and the first one was well over 400,000 miles on the road..).

Here's a trick that not many know about... You can shorten the tongue on a trailer considerably if you just get a bit longer drawbar for your trailer hitch...


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## Half Shell (Jul 19, 2016)

Also, you stated earlier you were looking to have the frame end under the hull (presumably so the swing tongue is true zero tolerance). EZ Loader makes some that do that, or it could be that the 18-20ft model is just a little short for my 21' hull but it works.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

lemaymiami said:


> Here's a trick that not many know about... You can shorten the tongue on a trailer considerably if you just get a bit longer drawbar for your trailer hitch...


He could also have the tongue as a slide in just like on sailboat trailers.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

The EZ Loader trailers are nice, but once I add the options in I'm at just below the price of an aluminum magic tilt. Which is the way I'm leaning right now.

As far as the tongue goes, its not the tongue that is the issue. If it were the swing tongue kit would work again. It's the winch stand. Making it removable with a few hitch pins would be perfect. I just wish they made a kit that way.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

How did you ever get married?


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

Married was easier as there was a time limit. Here I have no rush so I can research everything to death.


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## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

One other point about trailers you need to remember is that every manufacturer actually makes at least three models that can be used for the same hull. One that’s barely adequate, one that’s okay, and one that’s meant for hard service and high mileage... What you really need is a copy of their reference catalogs that shows all the dimensions and other specs needed to make a decision. Each manufacturer has that info and most will make it available to a potential customer. I’d walk away from anyone that won’t.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

firecat1981 said:


> Married was easier as there was a time limit. Here I have no rush so I can research everything to death.


A 9 month alarm clock? LOL

I'll put your shoes on for a minute. A galvanized trailer will last 20+ years with the exception of the axles. An aluminum one will last 20+ years except for the axles.

You will sell this boat in 4 years when you start your next build. When you sell you will not get your money back. 

Heads = aluminum
Tails = galvanized


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## anytide (Jul 30, 2009)

owens and sons is all you need.


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## m32825 (Jun 29, 2018)

DuckNut said:


> How did you ever get married?


Didn't require a trailer...


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

DuckNut said:


> A 9 month alarm clock? LOL
> 
> I'll put your shoes on for a minute. A galvanized trailer will last 20+ years with the exception of the axles. An aluminum one will last 20+ years except for the axles.
> 
> ...


I'm not disagreeing. I'd go galvanized, but it's near the price. That said, if I do build another boat in 4 years.... or 2, and it's of similar size, I'll keep this trailer.


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## Mako 181 (May 1, 2020)

formerWAflyfisher said:


> If your buying new I really think your going to have a hard time finding anything within that price range. If your buying new make sure you specify SS parts as well. If your building a new skiff, it might be worth while to spend a few more dollars to get a well made trailer. I currently have a RamLin under my HB and I have to say I do not think it’s worth the money. If I ever replace it, it’ll be from BoatMaster again. I’ve had continentals, magic tilts, shorelamders etc etc. for the money the best made trailer I owned by far was From Boatmaster. It was custome built, all SS parts and a dropped torsion axle. 2650 took about 2-3 weeks. That price was with some upgrades I wanted.


 I have a 1989 BoatMaster that I bought brand new. I have a 6000 pound Grady White on it and it is still rolling to this day.
Great Trailer !


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