# Got An Alweld. My Work Is Cut Out For Me



## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

Once you pull the floor - it might be a good idea to do a "water test" on that old hull so you'll know what you're facing before the whole rebuild process. The test is simple and all you need is to get the hull level on the trailer or on wooden supports if the trailer can't be levelled... Plug the drain hole and use a garden hose to run enough water into the hull that it comes up to the chines on each side. All you're doing is finding leaks and you'll need a flashlight as you get up under the hull looking for drips (bring a magic marker and mark each one so you won't miss one as do your repairs. Do not over fill your hull with water since it probably won't stand the weight... Hope this helps.

Aren't boats fun?


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## Dschouest42 (Jul 12, 2017)

If I encounter any leaks, would JBWeld be a good alternative to aluminum welding? I'm not the best welder around


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

Dschouest42 said:


> If I encounter any leaks, would JBWeld be a good alternative to aluminum welding? I'm not the best welder around


If welding isn't an option, I've heard of people riveting patch panels over any holes along with a sealant like sikaflex or another flexible seam sealer. Never tried it myself, though.

I would stay away from JB Weld, or really any solution that relies solely on an adhesive bond.


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## jmrodandgun (Sep 20, 2013)

The key is an easy fix. Those keys are not unique to the motor so replacements are easy to find. Or you can just bypass it all together. 

Are you keeping the side console or going to a tiller?


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Dschouest42 said:


> If I encounter any leaks, would JBWeld be a good alternative to aluminum welding? I'm not the best welder around


No, I would take care of it the right way from the beginning and have any leaks welded.


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## LowHydrogen (Dec 31, 2015)

Cool project!! The price is definitely right.

I can't speak to marine plywood but chemicals in regular PT plywood will react with bare alum when wet. The results look a lot like electrolysis, just something to keep in mind.

Is this a riveted boat or welded? I assume welded. No to the JB weld because it will make it harder to fix it right when it leaks...and it will.

Edit: typing the same time as @Smackdaddy53 ...what he said


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## Dschouest42 (Jul 12, 2017)

Thanks for the input y'all.

Worse comes to worse, if there's leaks, I'll pay for the aluminum welding materials and use my Paran's welding machine to weld them. Hopefully my bubblegum welds hold lol! I can tac decently but i gotta work on puddle control.

I am keeping the console steering. I'm very comfortable with a helm, and the console will be a good place for a chart plotter (I have an old Elite 4 that is just what I need), and a place to mount a radio.

This week I'll be tackling the key issue, buying new tires and repacking the bearings, and buying a new fuel tank. Going with a 6 gallon tank as I trust having more fuel than less.

The biggest headaches are going to be the power tilt and the regulator. Im gonna ask my local Johnson Evinrude dealer if they have any wiring diagrams or schematics I can get copies of.


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## jmrodandgun (Sep 20, 2013)

Dschouest42 said:


> Worse comes to worse, if there's leaks, I'll pay for the aluminum welding materials and use my Paran's welding machine to weld them. Hopefully my bubblegum welds hold lol! I can tac decently but i gotta work on puddle control.


It's not so much a question if your welds will hold or not, it's a matter of how much damage you cause from attempting this repair. 

A few things you should consider before going at this one yourself. First, thin gauge aluminum that's been in a marine environment poses some unique challenges when welding. All kinds of crap gets ground into the aluminum and it's just a bitch to work with. Secondly, unless you can TIG very well, this is best left to someone who knows what they are doing. Spool guns run hot and fast and are not the correct tool for the job. I had a casting platform collapse under me that someone stuck together with a MIG. I've seen too many people turn a relatively simple repair into a giant mess with BB's everywhere and holes blown through the material.

If you take your time and prep it well, it will be a fast job for a qualified welder. If you get to burning holes in it with a spool gun, it will take longer to grind out all your mistakes than the original repair work would have required.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

jmrodandgun said:


> It's not so much a question if your welds will hold or not, it's a matter of how much damage you cause from attempting this repair.
> 
> A few things you should consider before going at this one yourself. First, thin gauge aluminum that's been in a marine environment poses some unique challenges when welding. All kinds of crap gets ground into the aluminum and it's just a bitch to work with. Secondly, unless you can TIG very well, this is best left to someone who knows what they are doing. Spool guns run hot and fast and are not the correct tool for the job. I had a casting platform collapse under me that someone stuck together with a MIG. I've seen too many people turn a relatively simple repair into a giant mess with BB's everywhere and holes blown through the material.
> 
> If you take your time and prep it well, it will be a fast job for a qualified welder. If you get to burning holes in it with a spool gun, it will take longer to grind out all your mistakes than the original repair work would have required.


Right on!
I modified a 1979 Polar Kraft aluminum hull and did a lot of cutting and welding on it but it took a lot of prep work and clean cuts to do it right. Your hull is thicker than mine was so that is already a plus.


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## GullsGoneWild (Dec 16, 2014)

You wont have any problems with marine plywood. We had a 97' Allweld that we sold this year. I cant remember the thickness of our marine plywood but it was at least 1/2" thick but I think closer to 5/8". We added foam between the stringers under the ply wood and added a top coat of sealant.


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

I restored an older Duracraft a few years back, and when I pulled the deck off discovered dozens of small holes in the hull. I had a professional welder attempt to repair these holes, but the results were less than satisfactory. Welding old, thin, dirty, corroded aluminum isn't that easy. I'd recommend some combination of aluminum patches, adhesive and rivets if you find holes. As far as deck goes, 1/2" ply will do if it's well supported. Cover all ply, especially marine fir, with glass cloth and epoxy for added strength, rot resistance and a better, smoother surface.


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## Dschouest42 (Jul 12, 2017)

GOOD NEWS! I got the engine to run... for a minute or so. Now, I think I flooded it trying to restart it.
Here's the current situation:
I have what I believe to be a manual choke on the starboard side of the engine, a little red tab that turns forward and aft. When pushed backward, as I prime the bulb, there is fuel coming from the top of the top carburetor. When pushed forward, I get pressure on the bulb. I have been using a pull chord to try and start it, but with an injured shoulder, its just not catching.
I think it is just flooded. Tomorrow, Im going to use my car battery and jumper wires to try and get the starter to engage and see if itll start like that.

Im sorry Im so new at this and asking for so much help, but it really is all appreciated!


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## Dschouest42 (Jul 12, 2017)

UPDATE:
ITS ALIVE! ITS ALIVE!!!
I went back today, cause Im an impatient fellow, and I wired the battery on my truck to the starter solenoid and the ground. I moved the manual choke opposite where it was, moved the neutral throttle forward, and cranked. It took a few minutes, but, she caught, and she ran for over 30 minutes!
I tried the switch on the engine for the power tilt. It worked, however, there is no hydraulic oil in the motor, so it didn't move or budge. Either way, this makes me feel relieved. I have two problems I was worried about (starter and power tilt motor) not actually affecting me. I have also figured that the switch or relay for the power tilt on the control box is out. That won't be too hard to fix.
Next up is to change the steering cable. I undid the steering previous, and the motor moved around like a champ. That means the cable is locked up. Im going to go ahead and change the wheel, helm, and cable in one go.
This project is coming along better and better than I ever imagined. Im going to enjoy this guy once I have everything fixed, put a new deck and new coat of paint on her, and slime her up!


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

The JB Weld Marine epoxy is some pretty good stuff. Pin holes can be repaired with it or use an aluminum rivet with liberal use of 5200.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

There is a product called Super Alloy 1 that you can braze the leaks with a propane torch. I used it in the past and it really works great and is simple to do. If you have acetylene then use the #5 not the #1


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## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

If and when you do that water test and find out just exactly what condition the bottom is in.... Welding aluminum properly is tough - this is one item I'd make a point of finding someone that does a lot of aluminum welding for a look and an opinion (cost estimate). Aluminum fabricators (in Louisiana there are probably folks that build aluminum skiffs from scratch - and more than a few of them around....). One of the nice things about aluminum is that you can actually have an entire bottom replaced or reinforced if necessary - all of that will depend, of course, on whether it's worth it or not. I ran an aluminum, riveted hull from 1976 through 1982 (and we had to put it back together two times during those years...) so I've had my share of re-riveting, coating the bottom with Steel Flex, etc. Aluminum hulls not only get pinholes - but also stress cracks (where flexing portions come up against reinforced areas that don't flex...)

One other small point, while you're working on the motor and get it started - make sure the lower unit has muffs and a hose hooked up. Small motors need water or they very quickly overheat.... While on the hose you'll also quickly find out how your water pump is performing...

Aren't boats fun?


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## Dschouest42 (Jul 12, 2017)

lemaymiami said:


> If and when you do that water test and find out just exactly what condition the bottom is in.... Welding aluminum properly is tough - this is one item I'd make a point of finding someone that does a lot of aluminum welding for a look and an opinion (cost estimate). Aluminum fabricators (in Louisiana there are probably folks that build aluminum skiffs from scratch - and more than a few of them around....). One of the nice things about aluminum is that you can actually have an entire bottom replaced or reinforced if necessary - all of that will depend, of course, on whether it's worth it or not. I ran an aluminum, riveted hull from 1976 through 1982 (and we had to put it back together two times during those years...) so I've had my share of re-riveting, coating the bottom with Steel Flex, etc. Aluminum hulls not only get pinholes - but also stress cracks (where flexing portions come up against reinforced areas that don't flex...)
> 
> One other small point, while you're working on the motor and get it started - make sure the lower unit has muffs and a hose hooked up. Small motors need water or they very quickly overheat.... While on the hose you'll also quickly find out how your water pump is performing...
> 
> Aren't boats fun?


Oh yeah, I made sure I had rabbit ears on it. I don't wanna ruin the water pump or impeller. But I'll most likely change out the impeller soon.
The water test will have to wait, with that storm looming in the Gulf. I might go but a tarp to cover the boat up thataway no leaves get into it and make a bigger mess.
Now, even when the boat was full of water, there wasn't any apparent leaking, even though I'm sure there was water under the false floor. I'll investigate it after this weekend.
For now, I. Just gonna start drawing up blue prints for a false deck, and see about making an ice chest radio. Cause nothing beats running with some classic rock jamming!


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Well I have to say I am probably an expert on this topic (LOL). I have 1967 welded boat that had over 20 corrosion holes in it and local welding shops would not touch it. I did not want to give up on the old girl so I fixed suing 1/8 ich aluminum plate, closed/sealed rivits and West systems G/flex epoxy. The patches have held strong now for over a year with heavy use in salt water. 

Here is one of my posts.

https://www.microskiff.com/threads/aluminum-hull-repair-without-welding.31769/


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