# Riverhawk B60 rebuild



## albrighty_then (Jan 11, 2017)

First time poster, though been on microskiff for a while gathering info for my first boat. Finally moving up from my Cuda HD kayak. Just picked this sweet ride up along with a magic tilt trailer for 200 bucks, which Ii think was a freaking steal. I have been searching for about a year on a project i can afford as a student and this just fell into my lap. Building my own boat the way I want it has been something i have wanted to do for a long time. This is going to be a long drawn out process being that I am in chiropractic school and time is an issue, but I plan on having her done shortly after I graduate. I am going to put in a front and rear deck with rod tube inserts, false floors. Going the wood and epoxy route as I have a little knowledge working with them. I have also been tossing around the idea of putting in a side console, or just leaving it as a tiller setup. Here are a few pictures of the beginnings. Ill be updating through out the coming months!


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## Backcountry 16 (Mar 15, 2016)

Worth 200 bucks all day you did good


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## John Lee (Aug 19, 2017)

I'd like to see one with a side console. Never seen one


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## topnative2 (Feb 22, 2009)

I use to own a B60...the manuf. is in winder ga....they use stuff called nyloboard that is then classed to make their decks...knowing the boat ...I recommend glassed nidacore for weight savings and to add stiffness...because the boat flexes a lot....had a lot of fun w/ mine
https://boatbuildercentral.com/categories.php?cat=47


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## albrighty_then (Jan 11, 2017)

topnative2 said:


> I use to own a B60...the manuf. is in winder ga....they use stuff called nyloboard that is then classed to make their decks...knowing the boat ...I recommend glassed nidacore for weight savings and to add stiffness...because the boat flexes a lot....had a lot of fun w/ mine
> https://boatbuildercentral.com/categories.php?cat=47


Yea I've just heard nidacore is difficult to work with and uses polyester resin which I have 0 experience with, you think okume and epoxy would be too heavy?


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## albrighty_then (Jan 11, 2017)

Yea my main issue is weight distribution with 2 people in the back with a full fuel tank


John Lee said:


> I'd like to see one with a side console. Never seen one


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

albrighty_then said:


> Yea my main issue is weight distribution with 2 people in the back with a full fuel tank


I've built 3 of the Bateau boats, all with Okoume plywood and epoxy, and it's great to work with and very light. A full sheet of 1/4" is 20 lbs. and 3/8" is 30 lbs. Even if you used the entire sheet of either thickness it wouldn't add much weight to the boat, and you would probably use only 60-70%. Just epoxy the underside a few coats and glass the top side with 4 or 6oz. woven. 1/4" is plenty strong enough if supported well with framing underneath. If you're dead set on some type of composite board call Boat Builder Central in Vero and they'll steer you in the right direction. Also, I've seen lots of builds on there site utilizing one of the composite boards, and I can't recall anyone using polyester resin. Mike


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

albrighty_then said:


> Yea I've just heard nidacore is difficult to work with and uses polyester resin which I have 0 experience with, you think okume and epoxy would be too heavy?


I'm doing a similar project on a skiff a little larger than the B60 and I personally wouldn't recommend wood. I think it would be good to line the inside hull floor up to the outside chine with some coring material, like Nidacore or scrimmed (scored grid) divinycell in 1/2". So grind all inside gelcoat off and grind off any fiberglass that is not a part of the bottom on the hull. I recommend a generic boat builder's grade 2 part epoxy with a fairly long set time, so you have time to work with it. You can buy that on-line for about half the price of West Systems. Also get some 2nd run 1708 bi-axle cloth (lest money that the 1st run stuff, but still works great for small projects like that). Pre-cut all your pieces.

So you wet out the inside of the hull with the epoxy. Then install the 1st layer of 1708. You can then install the coring material, then the last layer of 1708. When that kicks and sets over night, it will be solid as a rock and you will have no flex in the hull. From that point, you can build out the rest of the boat. I wouldn't use nidacore for the bulkheads and stringers, but you can use it to core the flooring. I would use some sort of high density foam board for the bulkheads and stringers and glass each side with the 1708 and then tab it all in with 5-6" 1708 tabbing strips (which comes in a roll). On the topside of the decks, you can use mat for a smoother finish.

In the end, you will have a skiff that is lighter. Those B60's has a lower freeboard than you think once on the water. Limiting as much excess weight as possible will help lowering power requirements and get you in the skinny stuff. Believe me, the weight of everything all adds up quickly in a small skiff like that.

Ted


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## albrighty_then (Jan 11, 2017)

Backwater said:


> I'm doing a similar project on a skiff a little larger than the B60 and I personally wouldn't recommend wood. I think it would be good to line the inside hull floor up to the outside chine with some coring material, like Nidacore or scrimmed (scored grid) divinycell in 1/2". So grind all inside gelcoat off and grind off any fiberglass that is not a part of the bottom on the hull. I recommend a generic boat builder's grade 2 part epoxy with a fairly long set time, so you have time to work with it. You can buy that on-line for about half the price of West Systems. Also get some 2nd run 1708 bi-axle cloth (lest money that the 1st run stuff, but still works great for small projects like that). Pre-cut all your pieces.
> 
> So you wet out the inside of the hull with the epoxy. Then install the 1st layer of 1708. You can then install the coring material, then the last layer of 1708. When that kicks and sets over night, it will be solid as a rock and you will have no flex in the hull. From that point, you can build out the rest of the boat. I wouldn't use nidacore for the bulkheads and stringers, but you can use it to core the flooring. I would use some sort of high density foam board for the bulkheads and stringers and glass each side with the 1708 and then tab it all in with 5-6" 1708 tabbing strips (which comes in a roll). On the topside of the decks, you can use mat for a smoother finish.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the good info man, you've got me thinking about going with a core a little more. I've never heard of lining the hull like that, do you mean like a false floor all the way to the nose? Or actually line the hull? That just seems difficult with curvature of the boat. Thanks for the help I've got a experience with wood and epoxy but when it comes to composites I'm next to clueless. I know I don't want to over weight my boat


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

Actually line the hull bottom with it. Both the nidacore and the scored divinycell are flexible to follow the curvature of the inside hull bottom. Then, if you want to, install a false floor where it rest on the outside chines on each side and make the stringers grid tall enough to support the floor.


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## topnative2 (Feb 22, 2009)

regarding weight distribution.....put the TM battery way up front(nose) and get a lawn mower/atv battery for starting and put it in the back


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## predacious (Sep 1, 2016)

albrighty_then said:


> Thanks for the good info man, you've got me thinking about going with a core a little more. I've never heard of lining the hull like that, do you mean like a false floor all the way to the nose? Or actually line the hull? That just seems difficult with curvature of the boat. Thanks for the help I've got a experience with wood and epoxy but when it comes to composites I'm next to clueless. I know I don't want to over weight my boat



wood is trouble !! I can't understand why anyone would use wood - it's 2017
nidacore 1/2" 13mm is $50,for a 4x8 sheet. 

nidacore - scored,or divinycell,scored,set it down into a coating of lightweight putty - polyester based.epoxy is better,yes,but with composites,epoxy isn't needed.most composites are polyester based,using polyester products goes with that,also allows the finish coating to be gel coat.using epoxy,you're going to need a separation coat of a vinylester product,in the event you're planning to use gel coat....adding a layer of 1 1/2 oz chop strand matt over top of the core you've added,seals the deal...just beware,nida core will NEVER hold ANY kind of fastener - nidacore is plastic honeycomb,it's made from recycled milk jugs/water bottles,it's covered in a scrim backing.

cored hull - this adds stiffness/strength,using a lightweight core material,such as nidacore,adds minimal weight. dropping a false deck over top of the bottom,bonding that false deck with some cor grip putty,then glassing in down with 1708,will provide a secure mounting point.penske/coosa board works well for a false deck - cut the side of the core material,where it will meet the inside of the boat,at a 45* - grind it further to allow 1708 to be dropped over it - be sure and line the strings of the 1708 in the correct direction - few will understand that statement

a core matt,will add stiffness,with even less weight added to the hull - a layer of core matt,followed by 1 1/2oz chop strand adds a considerable amount of stiffness to the hull's sides....


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## albrighty_then (Jan 11, 2017)

Got a little done on her today, had to go back and get a 60 grit floppy disc because the 80 was not cutting it with the gel coat, wish I would have got 35. This stuff is a pain to grind down. I havent had much time to work on it with finals this week, but any progress is progress!


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

albrighty_then said:


> Got a little done on her today, had to go back and get a 60 grit floppy disc because the 80 was not cutting it with the gel coat, wish I would have got 35. This stuff is a pain to grind down. I havent had much time to work on it with finals this week, but any progress is progress!
> View attachment 16275
> View attachment 16276
> View attachment 16277


I have had good results with one of these for tough grinding areas:









https://www.harborfreight.com/4-1-2-half-inch-nylon-abrasive-wheel-94017.html


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## albrighty_then (Jan 11, 2017)

Got a little work done today on the b60. I have all my foam cut for the false floors and stringers and got them glued/filleted and glassed. It's either raining or cold here so this is the first chance I've had to do any glass work. Im hoping to have the floors and front/rear bulk heads done soon to give some rigity to the hull. then I'll be grinding out the old side foam boxes. Feels good to finally be making some progress and not just be grinding gelcoat haha


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## albrighty_then (Jan 11, 2017)

Inching away but making progress, got the floors glassed in today, next step will be front and rear bulkheads. Then I'll be removing the side boxes. Glad to be seening some stuff get done!


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Are you going to end up with a high spot in the middle where those panels are?


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## albrighty_then (Jan 11, 2017)

Yes unfortunately, I'm toying with the idea of leveling it out but it would take alot of epoxy or some kind of putty which would be expensive. Any idea of another way to?


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## albrighty_then (Jan 11, 2017)

yobata said:


> Are you going to end up with a high spot in the middle where those panels are?


Since im putting tuff coat on the floors I was thinking I'd lay some kind of filler in those angles under the tuff coat to give it a more level look. I used 3/4 in foam 1/2 or 3/8 would have looked better in hindsight lol


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## Flatbroke426 (May 5, 2018)

Question for you. Did you allow a way for water to escape down the hull if it gets in under the deck?


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## albrighty_then (Jan 11, 2017)

Flatbroke426 said:


> Question for you. Did you allow a way for water to escape down the hull if it gets in under the deck?


No I didn't, I figured if I completely sealed it I wouldn't have that problem.


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## SOUGNIP (May 11, 2018)

albrighty_then said:


> No I didn't, I figured if I completely sealed it I wouldn't have that problem.


Hey man looking good... ive been lurking around and hella interested in how yours hawk turns out. One year ago today i purchased a B52 for super cheap boat/motor/trailer 500 bucks. mega steal. Unfortunately, a month later i deployed... I have about 70 days left before i head home and itching to getting to rebuilding it. Brah!!! how hard has it been working with that nidacore specifically cutting out thoaw stringers and what are you using to glue them down...EPOXY?


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## Flatbroke426 (May 5, 2018)

It’s looking great. Your doing a great job. I look forward to hear how the tuffcoat comes out. I’m debating what to use on mine.


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## albrighty_then (Jan 11, 2017)

SOUGNIP said:


> Hey man looking good... ive been lurking around and hella interested in how yours hawk turns out. One year ago today i purchased a B52 for super cheap boat/motor/trailer 500 bucks. mega steal. Unfortunately, a month later i deployed... I have about 70 days left before i head home and itching to getting to rebuilding it. Brah!!! how hard has it been working with that nidacore specifically cutting out thoaw stringers and what are you using to glue them down...EPOXY?


I used airex on mine, it's easier to use than nidacore. I used epoxy to glue the stringers down, and then I used pc epoxy puddy for the fillets, I'll be using the epoxy and filler for the rest of the fillets when I run out of PC. It's a total blast to be working on it man, you'll enjoy it all except for the grinding you have to do for prep, that sucks lol. If you have any questions hit me up, I'm no expert but most of the work isn't bad at all.


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## albrighty_then (Jan 11, 2017)

Flatbroke426 said:


> It’s looking great. Your doing a great job. I look forward to hear how the tuffcoat comes out. I’m debating what to use on mine.


The main reason I'm using tuff coat is bc I'm not using 1708 glass for my foam, I'm using 1700 with no mat on the back. So it doesn't have the extra impact protection. I'll def let you know!


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## albrighty_then (Jan 11, 2017)

Small update, got the forward and rear bulkheads glassed in, side boxes cut out and ground down, and began glassing in the first layer of the transom. Had to seriously Jerry rig the aquaplas to get it to adhere to the back glass lol thought some might get a kick out of it. Hopefully have the transom fully glassed in this weekend and then on the finishing the bulkheads and decks. Slow progress but it's coming along.


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## LowHydrogen (Dec 31, 2015)

Nice man, keep pluggin' along! Looking at what you have left, it looks like you'll be ready for fall reds.


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## Flatbroke426 (May 5, 2018)

Looking great..


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## albrighty_then (Jan 11, 2017)

Got the transom glassed in and curing this morning. Couple things I'd do differently so far for anyone else on a similar project: make the tansom about 3/4 shorter and glass it in at the top better (mine was so messed up I had to go to the top), make the bulkheads to where the deck will be just below the rub rails (mine is about an inch below), glass the bulkheads before putting them in instead of trying to do it vertically, same with the floors at least the bottoms becasue I have some small dips in places where the bulkheads were uneven, also make sure any areas you can no longer get to are completely sealed before you hose it out ie under the floors lol.


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## riptide (Dec 31, 2009)

do a search on my b60 its called "riverhawk refit" let me know if you have any questions


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## riptide (Dec 31, 2009)

https://www.microskiff.com/threads/riverhawk-refit.16318/


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## albrighty_then (Jan 11, 2017)

riptide said:


> https://www.microskiff.com/threads/riverhawk-refit.16318/


This is great man thank you


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## albrighty_then (Jan 11, 2017)

Moving right along guys, got the rest of the bulk heads glassed and tabbed in today. Next will be rod holders and tubes and starting to plan how I will run all my electronics, I'm starting to see some light at the end of tunnel


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## albrighty_then (Jan 11, 2017)

Got some stuff done the over the last month, everything is set to really finish it up. I need to paint the compartments, then just glass in the decks and do a little wiring, and finish the top coat. I just graduated and am starting a new job Monday so time is gonna be tight, but I'll at least have it done before it gets too cold to glass. Then winter stripers are on!


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## SOUGNIP (May 11, 2018)

Looking good brother. I’m finally back and settled in to my new place in Washington state... getting cold and salmon fishing slowed down so I hope to be getting started on my 52. What did you you use to sand and prep


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## albrighty_then (Jan 11, 2017)

An angle grinder with a floppy disc will be your best bet to get through the gel coat. Just be careful with how deep you go as the hull isn't very thick, I went through a couple times and had to fill and patch. You'll have a blast, it's alot of work prepping though lol.


SOUGNIP said:


> Looking good brother. I’m finally back and settled in to my new place in Washington state... getting cold and salmon fishing slowed down so I hope to be getting started on my 52. What did you you use to sand and prep[/QUOTE


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Cant wait to see it finished


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## albrighty_then (Jan 11, 2017)

Weather has been awful all Jan and Feb for me to get any work done. I managed to get all holes patched and faired, also finished the hatches. Looking to have it painted on the next clear weekend. Then I'm on the home stretch


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## albrighty_then (Jan 11, 2017)

Had no idea how to get a lip on the hatches but it ended up working out well.


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## jonny (May 1, 2007)

Dang looks like my old b60. I had one of the early ones. You are not in the Kennesaw/Marietta area by chance are you?


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## albrighty_then (Jan 11, 2017)

jonny said:


> Dang looks like my old b60. I had one of the early ones. You are not in the Kennesaw/Marietta area by chance are you?


Actually I am, she your old ride?


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## jonny (May 1, 2007)

albrighty_then said:


> Actually I am, she your old ride?


Hard to know for sure. I had that exact same color combo and trailer. It's definitely the right vintage. We're there any small holes drilled on the transom? I had a poling platform on it. The guy I sold it to was gonna pull it off. He was just gonna be fishing the Hooch and ponds.


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## albrighty_then (Jan 11, 2017)

jonny said:


> Hard to know for sure. I had that exact same color combo and trailer. It's definitely the right vintage. We're there any small holes drilled on the transom? I had a poling platform on it. The guy I sold it to was gonna pull it off. He was just gonna be fishing the Hooch and ponds.


 There were holes but I don't think they were wide enough for a poling platform.


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## albrighty_then (Jan 11, 2017)

Got her primed and painted, and some graphite epoxy as keel and side protection. Also some new hubs, rims and radial tires. Replacing the bunks and carpet next and rewiring it. Then all is ready for my move to Brunswick next month where I'll finish the decks and hang a motor!


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## albrighty_then (Jan 11, 2017)

Not much to see with all the confish builds haha. Been a while since I've had a chance to work on the b60, finally getting settled in at the new place. Got the back deck ready for glass and the console framed out. starting to look like boat now.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

albrighty_then said:


> Not much to see with all the confish builds haha. Been a while since I've had a chance to work on the b60, finally getting settled in at the new place. Got the back deck ready for glass and the console framed out. starting to look like boat now.
> View attachment 89566
> 
> 
> ...


Looking great!


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## albrighty_then (Jan 11, 2017)

Got the hatches almost done, just need to put the rim on then paint and install the electrical components. I should be done with her besides the motor this month!


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## albrighty_then (Jan 11, 2017)

Painted and non skid done, she's almost there.


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## BassFlats (Nov 26, 2018)

Looking good. You're almost there. I may of missed this answer, but what are you thinking of for an engine.


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## albrighty_then (Jan 11, 2017)

BassFlats said:


> Looking good. You're almost there. I may of missed this answer, but what are you thinking of for an engine.


20 zuke or hatsu!


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## albrighty_then (Jan 11, 2017)

Few small things accomplished, fishfinder, motor and controls, and rubrail all that is left


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## Zika (Aug 6, 2015)

Looking good. Nice work.


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## albrighty_then (Jan 11, 2017)

Decided Im not going to drop 4k on a motor, picked up this 1990 evinrude 20 for 300. Just got done rebuilding the powerhead, painting the rest of it next. Should be under 800 with a fresh 2 stroke.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

albrighty_then said:


> View attachment 116028
> View attachment 116030
> Decided Im not going to drop 4k on a motor, picked up this 1990 evinrude 20 for 300. Just got done rebuilding the powerhead, painting the rest of it next. Should be under 800 with a fresh 2 stroke.


Wow! Was this motor submerged?


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## albrighty_then (Jan 11, 2017)

yobata said:


> Wow! Was this motor submerged?


Was sitting in this guys yard for like 7 years he said. Had ants in the cowling. Cylinders tested 128 after I cleaned it up a little.


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## Mike Haydon (Dec 19, 2019)

Wow, your brave with that one. And I have been known to sleep on the couch for the things I bring home! Lol

Did you actually rebuild or get everything freed up and pressure test?


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## albrighty_then (Jan 11, 2017)

The only major work I did was honing the cylinders and replacing the rings. They tested 128 in both that's why I decided it was worth it. However there was extensive corrosion everywhere else. I've replaced alot of parts and was able to clean up and save a good bit too. Had to retap about half the bolts into the head which was really nerve racking. Overall I have about 700 in it which is still a steal in my book. Hopefully I can get it all back together and it actually run next week haha. Ive never done anything like this and I didn't take enough pictures taking it apart.


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## albrighty_then (Jan 11, 2017)

She's done today, just waiting on controls. Going to rewire the harness. So close but so much more to do.


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## Boatpaddle (Feb 25, 2020)

Wow, that's some really good work. Can't wait to see more pictures. You should be very proud of that boat.


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## Flatbroke426 (May 5, 2018)

albrighty_then said:


> 20 zuke or hatsu!


Go the Tohatsu. youll be glad you did


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## albrighty_then (Jan 11, 2017)

Got controls and tilt hooked up, all that's left is hanging the motor and the rub rails, I just opened a business so time and money are short but I'll have her rigged and fishing within the next month or two


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## Robert King (Jun 23, 2020)

awesome job man, I am down in Forsyth. Planning to rebuild my father in laws starting this fall.


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## albrighty_then (Jan 11, 2017)

It has been an absolute blast doing this thing, I actually just finished the motor tonight so hopefully will have her wet next weekend.


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## albrighty_then (Jan 11, 2017)




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## Back Country (Dec 30, 2017)

What an incredible transformation. Beautiful work!


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## Moonpie (May 12, 2020)

Great job on the restoration and best of luck with your new business.


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## Zika (Aug 6, 2015)

Nice job. Now you can really enjoy it!


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## Ron Mexico (Jul 19, 2018)

Nice work! Really enjoyed following along with this build. I just picked one up that is replacing my 15' Classic. It already has the interior laid out like and want and is in great shape. 

I do have a question for you. Did yours have a false floor to begin with? Mine does and I'm wanting to install a standing bar, but I'm unsure about how much room I have between it and the hull.


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## albrighty_then (Jan 11, 2017)

Ron Mexico said:


> Nice work! Really enjoyed following along with this build. I just picked one up that is replacing my 15' Classic. It already has the interior laid out like and want and is in great shape.
> 
> I do have a question for you. Did yours have a false floor to begin with? Mine does and I'm wanting to install a standing bar, but I'm unsure about how much room I have between it and the hull.



Mine did not have one, but the floor I put in is 3/4 and in the middle I'd say I have an 1 1/2 clearance between the floor and hull. The way the boat angles after the middle say 6 inches there isn't much clearance at all

I do have a question for you. Did yours have a false floor to begin with? Mine does and I'm wanting to install a standing bar, but I'm unsure about how much room I have between it and the hull.


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## Mike Haydon (Dec 19, 2019)

@albrighty_then you get this thing running yet? I have to know. Thanks, Michael


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## albrighty_then (Jan 11, 2017)

She's all done and I finally cought my first Georgia redfish. Pushing about 16/17 at 3/4 throttle and having some cavitation issues after that. I'm putting a permaplate and a cupped prop next week, hoping maybe close to 20mph wot. I'll be starting a berrylium this fall or winter. This little boat has been a blast and actually handles open water pretty good for what it is.


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