# Project: Strip down and start over!



## Robert_Baltean (Feb 26, 2011)

So I piced up a 15' aluminum boat and trailer at a cheap price.  Now I know why it was so cheap. :-/ 







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Anyway, I have big plans for it so I decided to get to work. I started out by gutting the inside. That was the easy part. After taking off the deck, I realized I wasn't satisfied with the folded tin foil that was holding it up.







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I rushed to the hardware store and piced up 3 pieces of 1"x1" square tubing. 8' in length. They ran $30 a piece! :'( Anyway, I decided to reinforce the bow deck frame.







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When that was complete, I realized there wasn't enough storage space up front. Since I'm 170lbs and plan to put a 25hp tiller on it (120lbs) I decided to transfer some more weight to the front. I extended the deck 17" and reinforced it. That took the deck to 6'...Just in case I feel like breakdancing. 







[/img] I plan to make the extended portion my batteryX2, onboard charger, Radio and speaker storage. I plan to aim the speakers toward the rear of the boat. I'm not sure if I need to put any in the rear too. I ran out of time so and it was time to clean up. I found myself burried under a pile of tools like that show "Horders."

I plan to have it completed by the end of April. Boy do I have a lot of work ahead of me. This is my first time rebuilding a boat so I'm welcoming tips, tricks, warnings and advice. [smiley=2cents.gif]


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## Robert_Baltean (Feb 26, 2011)

I think I need to proof-read more. [smiley=1-mmm.gif]


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## makin moves (Mar 20, 2010)

off to a good start. You will only need two speakers, I have two in the front pointing back and they are more than loud enough ;D


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## pole_position (Dec 5, 2009)

looks like a cool build ,don't give up yet! hell w/proof reading!


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## Robert_Baltean (Feb 26, 2011)

I have too much invested in it. Can't give up now. 

I should finish bracing the center beams (cracks) and reinforce the rear deck this early next week. I checked the wood in the transom and it appeared to be in good shape. I will flip it over and sand away the sloppy paint and filler on the hull. 

Can anybody recommend something/method to fill in the holes? 

Oh and a Thank You is due to "MissD" from this forum for selling me her 25hp Yamaha.


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## swaddict (Dec 19, 2009)

> Can anybody recommend something/method to fill in the holes?


For aluminum, I can't remember the name but it is sold at West Marine and is specifically for filling in small holes and rivets. The product is a flexible epoxy.


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## Robert_Baltean (Feb 26, 2011)

> > Can anybody recommend something/method to fill in the holes?
> 
> 
> For aluminum, I can't remember the name but it is sold at West Marine and is specifically for filling in small holes and rivets.  The product is a flexible epoxy.


Is it called "Gluvit"? I read a little about it and people swear by it. I haven't stripped the paint to expose the holes. I know there are some because of the way the current "?filler?" was applied. Its horribly done.


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## swaddict (Dec 19, 2009)

> > > Can anybody recommend something/method to fill in the holes?
> >
> >
> > For aluminum, I can't remember the name but it is sold at West Marine and is specifically for filling in small holes and rivets.  The product is a flexible epoxy.
> ...


Yes, that's it


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## Robert_Baltean (Feb 26, 2011)

I'm not much of a minute by minute poster.  I have finished my boat. I need to do some minor adjustments but here is the finished product.  Yamaha 25hp, MinnKota 80lb, Garmin 441s, 3 bank charger, radio, ozium led strips, and some other stuff I can't remember to write down. More pictures can be found at this link.

http://s874.photobucket.com/albums/ab309/2006Tacoma4x4/Sea%20Nymph%20Build/








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## tbutler (Dec 16, 2008)

Very nicely done!


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## Bush_Whacker (Jul 8, 2009)

Wow! Nice job!


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## makin moves (Mar 20, 2010)

sick


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## paint it black (Nov 3, 2007)

Looks great! 
But that black carpet looks like it might get a bit warm on those sunny days!


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## Flounder_Joe (Apr 21, 2011)

R Salt ,Looks good to me I built a 16' Alumcraft about 10 years ago with a 30yam. mine didn't look as good as yours, I am envious. looks like a great job.


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## Robert_Baltean (Feb 26, 2011)

Thanks guys. Its come a long way. I had the pleasure of working on it in the sun. The carpet was not as bad as I thought. It's gonna work. I need to do a couple more tweaks to it but one major one....... 

I have to lower the motor about 5". I picked up a "Mini Jacker" from Bass Pro Shops. I'm going to install it upside down. I can't see why it wouldn't work. Any suggestions? My other option is to cut down a portion of the transom. I might have to cut it anyway to clear the tiller handle. Getting rid of the motor is not an option. I tried to find an extention for it but couldn't find one for my model. Its a 1998 25hp 2 stroke. 3 cylinder. Pull start only.


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## flyfisheraa573 (Jun 26, 2008)

nicely done


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## Flounder_Joe (Apr 21, 2011)

R SAlt ,go to flats class C.A. Richardson did a ad for some guy who built tiller handles for any make or model or around 175.00, hope this helps.


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## Robert_Baltean (Feb 26, 2011)

> R SAlt ,go to flats class C.A. Richardson did a ad for some guy who built tiller handles for any make or model or around 175.00, hope this helps.


Its the shaft on the motor thats too short. I need an extention for the motor. I have to convert it to a 20" shaft or cut the transome to fit.


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## FlatsjunkieSC (Apr 12, 2011)

where did you get that pole ?? make it urself?


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## Robert_Baltean (Feb 26, 2011)

> where did you get that pole ?? make it urself?


www.skinnywaterproducts.com
Talk to Kate. There was a review on here somewhere. I liked it and ordered one. I also got the anchor bracket from them too. Push pole slides right in.


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

I wouldn't mount the Mini-Jacker upside down. You'd reverse the stresses and put welds under tension that were designed to be under compression. Mount it upright as designed, but lower on the transom. You should have enough clearance to run the motor without lowering the transom, but you can increase the setback using 1" aluminum stock for shim material if necessary.

Nate


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## Robert_Baltean (Feb 26, 2011)

> I wouldn't mount the Mini-Jacker upside down.  You'd reverse the stresses and put welds under tension that were designed to be under compression.  Mount it upright as designed, but lower on the transom.  You should have enough clearance to run the motor without lowering the transom, but you can increase the setback using 1" aluminum stock for shim material if necessary.
> 
> Nate


I thought about that too. I will have to see just how low it will have to be mounted first. It might look stupid being that low. I will play with it this weekend. Do you really think mounting it upside down will damage it? Its only a 25hp engine?


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## wjpitts (Apr 27, 2011)

I'm new here and think this may be my first post on this forum, so howdy.

Maybe the pics are misleading, but the cavitation plate looks about even with the bottom of the boat. Have you run it?   

Also, if I'm thinking about the right "mini jacker" it's cast not welded, so I don't think it would matter how you mount it although I think your tiller handle would hit the transom if you mount it too low.

That is a great looking boat and a great job. Where did you get the grab bar/cooler rack/console?


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## Robert_Baltean (Feb 26, 2011)

> I'm new here and think this may be my first post on this forum, so howdy.
> 
> Maybe the pics are misleading, but the cavitation plate looks about even with the bottom of the boat. Have you run it?
> 
> ...


Very observant for your first post. You are correct about the Mini Jacker being cast not welded. I was looking at that this evening. The picture looks deceiving. Its 4" higher than the bottom of the semi V. I did run it. It was a disaster! It was fine at idle speed but when you tried to take it up a notch, it wouldn't bite. The water was too turbulent. Its amazing what 4-5" can do. As far as the tiller handle goes,...I have just enough room to drop it 5" without any issues. Tilting the motor is another issue. Thats going to be a trial and error thing. I've decided to mount it upside down first. Observe how it does and frequently check for any pressure cracks. If it doesn't work, I will cut the transom. (Thats if I catch it in time and don't have to fish my motor out the water)

The grab rail was custom fabricated here locally. Built around the cooler.


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## wjpitts (Apr 27, 2011)

You shouldn't have to go down the full distance because of the setback. With 4" of setback you should be able to run it about an inch higher.

I have that same motor on my tin can and really like it.


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## popcorn (Apr 11, 2010)

Great job! I had a Polarkraft once that I had to cut the transom down to 15". It is not that big a deal. You just figue out how much, lay it off with the appropriate angles and go to work with the jigsaw. Then you need some 0.50 aluminum bent into a cap. Notch at the appropriate locations, form to fit and attach with pop rivets. If I still had my old boat I'd post some pics, but alas, it was sold to finance other projects.


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## Robert_Baltean (Feb 26, 2011)

I think I'm gonna run it at even. But can always take it up a notch. How fast will it push your "tin can"?


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## wjpitts (Apr 27, 2011)

I have an Alumacraft 1648 (1972 model). It's a riveted boat so it's pretty light, but I have wood decks and floors in it. With just me and my fishing gear, it will run about 30 mph.

I need to redo my decks and carpet. Your rebuild is definitely inspirational. 

Have you been to tinboats.net? It is a great site all about aluminum boats.


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## Robert_Baltean (Feb 26, 2011)

> I have an Alumacraft 1648 (1972 model).  It's a riveted boat so it's pretty light, but I have wood decks and floors in it.  With just me and my fishing gear, it will run about 30 mph.
> 
> I need to redo my decks and carpet.  Your rebuild is definitely inspirational.
> 
> Have you been to tinboats.net?  It is a great site all about aluminum boats.


I scanned it looking for which product to seal the rivets with. I went with Coat-It. It seems to have worked out pretty well so far.


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## Dailey (Jan 6, 2011)

Sweet rig, How wide is you boat? I was looking at a old bass tracker but felt it might be to narrow.


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## Robert_Baltean (Feb 26, 2011)

5 foot even.


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## wjpitts (Apr 27, 2011)

How high is your grab bar and would you prefer a different height? I'm thinking about getting one made for my work boat. Is there anyting you'd change about it?


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## Robert_Baltean (Feb 26, 2011)

> How high is your grab bar and would you prefer a different height?  I'm thinking about getting one made for my work boat.  Is there anyting you'd change about it?


Its 36". If I could change it, I would put the shelf my GPS is mounted on a touch lower and recessed under the 180 degree bend. For added protection.


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