# SUV 17 Float-on trailers torsion axle 2011



## topnative2 (Feb 22, 2009)

You may want to double check your wheel clearance. 

I added 2" alum blocks to the axle to raise the frame to get more clearance at the back when trailering and ,subsequently, discovered that my tires had been rubbing the underside of the wheel fenders.

Just an FYI. I am out of state so I handled it myself.


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## blondmonkey777 (Oct 18, 2012)

couldn't you just move the fenders up higher ?


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## Recidivists (May 9, 2011)

Topnative2 and I both raised our FloatOn's because of clearance issues:


Before





































After









I used 1 1/2" stock, as I didn't want to increase my saltwater depth to include the hubs on launch/retrieve.

For some reason, FloatOn decided I only needed two bolts through the outside portion of my I-beam to mount to the torsion axle mounting bracket (which btw, has four slotted holes). 

Topnative2 has four bolts.


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## Recidivists (May 9, 2011)

> couldn't you just move the fenders up higher ?


They were mounted at the highest available point on mine, so no. 

I think we both like the fact that we are 1.5-2 inches higher for other reasons, as well.


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## topnative2 (Feb 22, 2009)

1. I raised the frame to get motor clearance because the wheels are to small to tow 20" shaft motors anywhere close to vertical

2.. fender height was an unknown issue for me at the time---- but not w/ others---the shiny spots on the underside changed that

3.no room for bolts to be moved enough on fenders to raise them up

4.can not raise bunks because stanchions are welded from the factory [smiley=1-doh.gif]


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## makin moves (Mar 20, 2010)

One of these days I need to get mine to them. Same clearance issue which has caused the fenders to start crack at the bends.


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## Recidivists (May 9, 2011)

Has anyone else thought about adding another 2 X 4 to the guide ons for a better fit?

I haven't measured the excess space b/w the guide ons and the hull, but I think adding them would make the trailer more capable.

P.S.:  Top and I probably over engineered our lift spacers, choosing aircraft grades of aluminum scrap.  Perhaps a high density or high molecular weight PE would work as well, but I wanted the shear strength just in case.  I got mine from http://www.networkmetalsinc.com/, Top from https://www.metalsdepot.com/, and there's a guy on Ebay that sells Fortal scrap if you can find two identical or very similar pieces at http://stores.ebay.com/FORTAL-Aluminum?_trksid=p2047675.l2563.

Just have to drill it.


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## Gramps (Nov 1, 2007)

Rec - I believe there is NO over-engineering when it comes to attached the axle(s) to the trailer! I would do it the same way as you.

Re - guide on: Are you referring to decreasing the distance between the guide ons, ala making a 4x4 or just making them longer?


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## Recidivists (May 9, 2011)

Making them thicker, ala a 4x.


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## topnative2 (Feb 22, 2009)

I took a test 2x4 and stuck it alongside the current one and it will be enough. I do not think u can go any thicker.

I am more concerned about how much of the forward hull is unsupported after the bunks stop????

can of worms :


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## Recidivists (May 9, 2011)

I'm not gonna make the guide-ons thicker. I can still wash and wax this way.


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## davefishing (Dec 16, 2011)

Recidivist thanks for the post and pics. What are the specs on the nut and bolts you ended up using with the 1 1/2 inch lift?


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## Recidivists (May 9, 2011)

Float-On uses Rockwell American torsion axles.  There might still be a tag on the bottom of yours.










Identify what axle and mounting kit here on page 5 and 9:  http://rockwellamerican.com/sites/default/files/catalog/sec-a.pdf 

I used 1/2" x 3" stainless bolts, fender washers, and lock nuts for the holes in the i-beam.  I used some leftover 1/2" x 2.5" stainless bolts, fender washers, lock washers, and lock nuts on the inside holes because I already had them.  The slotted holes on the mount will accommodate 5/8" bolts easily, but Float-On equipped mine with 1/2" so I figured it was O.K.  I probably will replace the 2.5" inch bolts  with 3's because they don't engage the lock nuts fully.

I drilled 5/8" holes in the 7075 aluminum plate and chamfered the edges.  If you don't have a drill press, nice bit, and lube just take it to your local machinist for the half hour rate.

Remember to grease everything.


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## davefishing (Dec 16, 2011)

Thanks, My trailer has a axle from tie down engineering. You have motivated me as I have been thinking of doing this since I got my boat. Already have the 1 1/2 plates just need the hardware and some time.


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## topnative2 (Feb 22, 2009)

O.K.--- I raised the frame 2" and all is wunnerful
.
No issues trailering down w/ only a slight tilt.


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## topnative2 (Feb 22, 2009)

Now I have moved the winch mount about 2" forward and this will allow me to place a wedge and ,mount it to the frame, to support the bow.
This has been a concern on mine for awhile but procrastinated as usual 

Also, helped get the tie down straps off the stern corners of the boat.


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## topnative2 (Feb 22, 2009)

Also, I had to raise the winch mount 7/8" which required longer "U-bolts" (6 1/4").I used a piece of PT ripped to 3" wide.

This released all tension placed on the hull from the winch pulling down on snug up  because of a low mounting height.

Now the hull is "level" and snugs up to the stop perfectly.


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## cutrunner (Jun 8, 2010)

> Also, I had to raise the winch mount 7/8" which required longer "U-bolts" (6 1/4").I used a piece of PT ripped to 3" wide.
> 
> This released all tension placed on the hull from the winch pulling down on snug up  because of a low mounting height.
> 
> Now the hull is "level" and snugs up to the stop perfectly.


Pics or it didn't happen 

I didn't know you 2 (recidivist, top native2) had ankonas :-?


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## topnative2 (Feb 22, 2009)

Due to patent application that will not be possible.


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