# Dry Launch



## topnative2 (Feb 22, 2009)

use the bow line w/ a slip knot or loop it around the stanchion ane tie off to a cleat


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## FSUDrew99 (Feb 3, 2015)

Should probably next time I wax my bunks to just wax the bottom half.....


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## sjrobin (Jul 13, 2015)

New carpet? If so, just wait it will get sticky.


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## FSUDrew99 (Feb 3, 2015)

sjrobin said:


> New carpet? If so, just wait it will get sticky.



No not new. Good shape and just waxed really well haha


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## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

FSUDrew99 said:


> Should probably next time I wax my bunks to just wax the bottom half.....


This is the key. Don't wax the front foot or two of the bunk.


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## Blackdog317 (Jun 20, 2015)

This works good for me....

View attachment 6451
View attachment 6452


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## Capnredfish (Feb 1, 2012)

As black dog displays. But I just wrap the stand half wrap. I also walk up to bow with dock line in hand when I am putting it back on trailer. When I get up on the bow it wants to start sliding back down when I bend over to clip it on. Sometimes I don't need it, but have it ready. Don't over do the bunk lube. To much lube is like a loose p---y. Too much of a good thing.


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## bw510 (Sep 1, 2011)

You can leave it clipped and the tension from the clicker should slow it down and or hold on the the strap as it unwinds so it dosnt go to fast then clip the hook to the back of the trailer. 
That's what I do.


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## PeteS (Dec 30, 2016)

Ok, I gotta ask a stupid question. Waxing the bunks please explain this
I have owned several boats and am waiting on my new Beavertail to be built and this is the first time I have ever heard of waxing the bunks, obviously I assume it helps with loading/unloading at the ramp but how/what/why would you use to perform this


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## FSUDrew99 (Feb 3, 2015)

PeteS said:


> Ok, I gotta ask a stupid question. Waxing the bunks please explain this
> I have owned several boats and am waiting on my new Beavertail to be built and this is the first time I have ever heard of waxing the bunks, obviously I assume it helps with loading/unloading at the ramp but how/what/why would you use to perform this


Waxing the bunks helps with less friction between the boat and the carpet. My waxing every once in a while it helps the boat not stick to the bunks in launch is easier in the water while dry launching.


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## GullsGoneWild (Dec 16, 2014)

use paraffin wax. the kind used for canning. Its like $2.00 per pound.


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## PeteS (Dec 30, 2016)

Thanks, guys.
I assume you just rub it on and the carpeting must be dry?


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## EasternGlow (Nov 6, 2015)

Nice flemish.



Blackdog317 said:


> This works good for me....
> 
> View attachment 6451
> View attachment 6452


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## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

PeteS said:


> Thanks, guys.
> I assume you just rub it on and the carpeting must be dry?


Leave the wax in your car while you fish. When you get back to the ramp the wax will be a little softer and the bunks will be warm and dry. That's the easiest time to apply.


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

PeteS said:


> Thanks, guys.
> I assume you just rub it on and the carpeting must be dry?


Nah. Many guys apply the wax like a huge crayon to the bunk carpet after they launch and let the sun melt it in to the bunk carpet all day. Before reloading or after launching doesn't really matter; it is a six of one, half dozen of another situation. I don't think wet or dry is that terribly important either. Once it cooks all day, the wax will soak in and the water will evaporate out. My trailer isn't really set up to dry launch, so I get "close enough" and push it off the trailer while the end of the bunks are still a few inches above the water. I need to work on my trailer so that it works a bit better.

...but, as noted, the wax can make steep ramps interesting.

Nate


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

I just wrap the bow line around the winch stanchion and slip it as I push off. A cleat would probably be better.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

I hate drilling thru galvanizing to mount cleats and stuff.


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## tailchaser16 (Sep 23, 2008)

I use a snap shackle, Pricey but it works:

Attach the bottom of the snap shackle to your safety chain with a regular shackle and the spring loaded part goes on your boat under your winch hook. (Yes it must be under as you will not be able to get the winch hook off once it all comes tight).
Once you back the trailer down, you release the winch, boat slides back a foot or so and the safety chain will come tight. Undo your winch hook and with a quick yank on the release clip off pops the shackle and your boat slides right off.











View attachment 6494




https://www.westmarine.com/buy/ronstan--snap-shackles--P002_060_001_002?recordNum=40


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## DBStoots (Jul 9, 2011)

Blackdog317 said:


> This works good for me....
> 
> View attachment 6451
> View attachment 6452


Brilliant!


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## Breeze (Aug 7, 2016)

So educate in me on dry launching??? Do you submerge the trailer to load the boat at the end of the day???


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## FSUDrew99 (Feb 3, 2015)

Breeze said:


> So educate in me on dry launching??? Do you submerge the trailer to load the boat at the end of the day???


For my trailer at least I can back it down so that the bottom of the bucks just barely touch the water. The hubs are still dry and you can drive the boat keel in between the bunks and give it a little gas. Your buddy or whoever can then attach the winch and winch you up the rest of the way. Sometimes I throttle to roll over the keel roller gently and make it easier to latch the winch too.


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## FSUDrew99 (Feb 3, 2015)

tailchaser16 said:


> I use a snap shackle, Pricey but it works:
> 
> Attach the bottom of the snap shackle to your safety chain with a regular shackle and the spring loaded part goes on your boat under your winch hook. (Yes it must be under as you will not be able to get the winch hook off once it all comes tight).
> Once you back the trailer down, you release the winch, boat slides back a foot or so and the safety chain will come tight. Undo your winch hook and with a quick yank on the release clip off pops the shackle and your boat slides right off.
> ...



I am definitely going to pull the trigger an attach this to my safety chain over the regular chain hook. Thanks!


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## FSUDrew99 (Feb 3, 2015)

This could be just as good and still SS and not the West Marine 1000% mark
up. 

https://www.amazon.com/BQLZR-Stainless-Shackle-Swivel-Hardware/dp/B00RMBKSCK


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## T Bone (Jul 24, 2014)

tailchaser16 said:


> I use a snap shackle, Pricey but it works:
> 
> Attach the bottom of the snap shackle to your safety chain with a regular shackle and the spring loaded part goes on your boat under your winch hook. (Yes it must be under as you will not be able to get the winch hook off once it all comes tight).
> Once you back the trailer down, you release the winch, boat slides back a foot or so and the safety chain will come tight. Undo your winch hook and with a quick yank on the release clip off pops the shackle and your boat slides right off.
> ...


Where on the safety chain do you attach the snap shackle? On the hook part or on the chain?


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## T Bone (Jul 24, 2014)

Blackdog317 said:


> This works good for me....
> 
> View attachment 6451
> View attachment 6452


When using this cleat, when do you release the winch hook and the safety chain?


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## FSUDrew99 (Feb 3, 2015)

T Bone said:


> Where on the safety chain do you attach the snap shackle? On the hook part or on the chain?



Replace the safety chain hook and replace the with the new snap shackle.


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## Blackdog317 (Jun 20, 2015)

T Bone said:


> When using this cleat, when do you release the winch hook and the safety chain?


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## Blackdog317 (Jun 20, 2015)

T Bone said:


> When using this cleat, when do you release the winch hook and the safety chain?



I remove the safety chain and winch strap now. The dockline will hold the boat as long as you wrap the cleat with enough line and some locking loops.

I did leave the winch strap on until I learned how the boat would react on different ramps. Now that I have enough lube on the bunks for my skiff not to stick on the carpet, the slope on different ramps is the biggest variable. I'm still learning and figuring things out with this boat and trailer. Only a few trips to the water since buying the skiff.


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## Blackdog317 (Jun 20, 2015)

T Bone said:


> When using this cleat, when do you release the winch hook and the safety chain?



I release the winch hook and safety chain once I am done prepping all my gear. When I back down the ramp to launch, the dockline attached to the cleat is the only thing keeping the boat on the trailer.


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## tailchaser16 (Sep 23, 2008)

FSUDrew99 said:


> This could be just as good and still SS and not the West Marine 1000% mark
> up.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/BQLZR-Stainless-Shackle-Swivel-Hardware/dp/B00RMBKSCK



Good find! I went with the one from West Marine as it has a weight capacity listed on the sizes of the hook.
Careful: Do not unhook the winch until you back down. If forget your boat will slide down a bit and jerk once the chain comes tight.

I cut the hook off of my chain and added a regular shackle then the snap shackle.


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## Jason Cooper (Dec 6, 2016)

Dry launch. Meaning the trailer doesnt get wet? Or i dont get my feet wet?


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## LowHydrogen (Dec 31, 2015)

Jason Cooper said:


> Dry launch. Meaning the trailer doesnt get wet? Or i dont get my feet wet?


Neither should get wet. But if you're having to walk in water, get a piece of aluminum diamond plate or a carpeted 2*10 and have it run down just off the center of your trailer that way you can walk up or down your trailer to catch/launch without having to walk around in the mud or water. Just Google images of boat trlr walk plank, and you'll get some ideas.

Also the cheap silicone tent waterproofing spray from any box store will make trailer bunks slicker than greased owl shit. Also, it's in aerosol can super easy to apply.


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## Blackdog317 (Jun 20, 2015)

Here is a Maverick and a Beavertail dry launch trailer as examples.

View attachment 6615
View attachment 6616


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## FSUDrew99 (Feb 3, 2015)

Blackdog317 said:


> Here is a Maverick and a Beavertail dry launch trailer as examples.
> 
> View attachment 6615
> View attachment 6616


I need to add a platform/wallboard like this to mine


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## Zhunter (Feb 19, 2014)

Dry Launch is not getting your hubs wet


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

I put poly bunks on my trailer and my buddy took the winch strap off while I wasn't looking and he dry launched me about 3' before the water at the ramp...when he hit the brakes I was in the water quick.


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## Padre (Jul 29, 2016)

I can back my trailer down to where the bunks aren't in the water and the lower roller is just barely out of it. I walk down the trailer and my SUV is so light, I can pick up the bow and pull it half way up the trailer, then i hook the strap to the bow eye and crank it the rest of the way.


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## mtoddsolomon (Mar 25, 2015)

I sprayed my bunks with Silicon spray all over and launch at some pretty steep ramps and so far haven't had an issue with it going with out me nudging it a little. I do walk down the trailer frame and i'm counting down the days until i slip off and bust my shin, I definitely want to add some walkboards.


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## Jason Cooper (Dec 6, 2016)

Ahh. Looks like I need a couple rollers!


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

This is my trailer setup and I can dry launch (hubs out of water) and recover without the bunks in the water. I have replaced that 12 inch roller with an 18 inch roller since this picture was taken.


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## Tilly_Copano (Feb 12, 2017)

I just bought a used skiff. The trailer is a 2014 coastline but it is not set up to dry launch. Can I just add the rollers? Is it worth it now since the trailer has always been completely dunked?


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

Tilly_Copano said:


> I just bought a used skiff. The trailer is a 2014 coastline but it is not set up to dry launch. Can I just add the rollers? Is it worth it now since the trailer has always been completely dunked?


Don't worry about the history too much. Hubs, bearings and axles are replaceable parts, so if they fail, you get new ones. If the frame were rusted through from dunking, don't waste the money (or use it at all), but otherwise you might find dry launching helpful. The less the hubs are exposed to water, the longer they will go between failures. Not getting your feet wet is only a side benefit. The first concern is the weight of your skiff. If it is pretty easy to push around on the trailer, it might be worth the work to reconfigure your trailer.

The ability to dry launch requires the bunks to be as close to the axle(s) as possible. Most trailers are already set up with the bunks as low as possible in relation to the keel rollers, but if your keel rollers are riding higher than necessary, you can figure out how to lower them by looking at them. They are pretty self explanatory. You can then lower the bunks to match.

Do you pull your trailer over deeply rutted roads to remote primitive launch sites? You might not want to lower the bunks in respect to the axle if that is the case. When the trailer is level, the axle will always be the lowest point on level ground no matter how the trailer is set up, but the stern of the boat can drag easily through/over dips and bumps in the road if the bunks are low.

Does the trailer have torsion axles (u-bolted or welded to frame) or conventional axles (u-bolted to a spring pack)? Torsion axles lower the trailer the most and you can switch to a torsion axle if you'd like on most trailers; it just takes money.

You could also mount a conventional axle on top of the spring pack instead of below, but this will always require you to add a bump stop to the frame above the axle and will never be as low as a torsion axle.

While it is tempting position the boat further behind the axle so it reaches the water before the axle, you have to position the boat on the trailer so that you have the correct tongue weight for the trailer hitch. If you slide it too far back, the tongue weight will be too light and the boat will bounce on the hitch excessively. My hitch is rated up to 100# of tongue weight if I remember properly and I have mine set at about 70#.

Nate


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## Blackdog317 (Jun 20, 2015)

Willy Le dry launching his Maverick.




__ https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10206576148137248


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## Padre (Jul 29, 2016)

Blackdog317 said:


> Willy Le dry launching his Maverick.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Willard!!!!


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## PeteS (Dec 30, 2016)

Blackdog317 said:


> Willy Le dry launching his Maverick.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


So thats possible just from waxing the bunks?


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

el9surf said:


> This is the key. Don't wax the front foot or two of the bunk.


I wish you told me this before I waxed my bunks. Unhooked it on a ramp later and forgot I waxed. Boat went flying off the trailer and clunked in some shallow water. Wont do that again. Talk about your dry launch


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## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

permitchaser said:


> I wish you told me this before I waxed my bunks. Unhooked it on a ramp later and forgot I waxed. Boat went flying off the trailer and clunked in some shallow water. Wont do that again. Talk about your dry launch


Yeah you have to be careful to not unhook the boat till it's ready. Otherwise you can have disaster on your hands.


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

el9surf said:


> Yeah you have to be careful to not unhook the boat till it's ready. Otherwise you can have disaster on your hands.


Yep I may be dense but I don't un hook till I have enough water to launch. You can't stop my big fat boat once it gets going


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## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

permitchaser said:


> Yep I may be dense but I don't un hook till I have enough water to launch. You can't stop my big fat boat once it gets going


Give it a few months and the wax will start to wear down. When you reapply you can start a foot or two back and you will be all good.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

I am going to set my trailer up like this for my HPX Tunnel since the new torsion axle has only been wet twice but already sprayed the whole trailer down with CorrosionX Green. I need to fab side guide on boards and bolt a square tubing crossmember under the bunk boards and extend the ibeams on both sides so I can bolt on BoatBuckles and add a roller at the rear to dry launch and load. I like the concept.


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## jonny (May 1, 2007)

el9surf said:


> This is the key. Don't wax the front foot or two of the bunk.


I have been using silicone spray for decades now. It last a very long time. But like el9surf said. Do not do the entire bunk. You will dump it on the concrete. I actually only do about half. With these light skiffs you can easily give them a little nudge to get going. These keeps you and not gravity in control of the decent.


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## Redfishonthefly (Nov 12, 2016)

The best thing and cheapest that I’ve use so far on my bunks , Maguires tire shine… it’ll last about four months and seems to work longer after a couple of applications.


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