# Atlas Micro Jacker/Crushed F70 Cowling/New Cowling, etc.



## Bonesonthebrain (Jan 2, 2020)

Is there anything that could be touching the relay terminals or are they getting submerged?


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

The actuator has a release screw on top for just such an occasion...I recommend not forcing it if it seems seized. Heat the screw head with a mini torch and penetrating spray. Keep heat cycling and using penetrant to cool it and as it cools the penetrant will draw into the threads. Repeat until you can break it loose and release the hydraulic pressure. 

See page 2



https://www.wholesalemarine.com/content/PDFs/TH-Marine-Micro-Jacker-AHJM-4-DP-Installation-Sheet.pdf


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## NealXB2003 (Jun 8, 2020)

If it was mine, I think I would swap the relays with solenoids (assuming there is space) and replace the switch. 

Not sure how many trim switches you have, but many boats have multiple. One on the tiller or console, one on the cowl, maybe one on the bow. Could be any of those malfunctioning. Id unplug all but one until I got it figured out.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

NealXB2003 said:


> If it was mine, I think I would swap the relays with solenoids (assuming there is space) and replace the switch.
> 
> Not sure how many trim switches you have, but many boats have multiple. One on the tiller or console, one on the cowl, maybe one on the bow. Could be any of those malfunctioning. Id unplug all but one until I got it figured out.


It was the jackplate, not the trim.


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## Loogie (Jul 24, 2019)

Only two places are closing the current to the jackplate motor. The switch, which sounds like it’s operational and the jackplate motor itself. I would bet your jackplate motor has water intrusion and it’s closing the circuit. The sporadic event definitely points to water intrusion. Let us know how you solve it. Glad your new cowl wasn’t on!


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## Snakesurf (Jun 18, 2019)

It helps to put the relay harness up high in the transom. I have mine screwed to the high part of the gunwale in the transom compartment. My boat would have to sink for them to get wet.


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## NealXB2003 (Jun 8, 2020)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> It was the jackplate, not the trim.


🤦‍♂️completely misread that. Probably because my trim was screwing up a couple wks ago and I just finished chasing that down.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

NealXB2003 said:


> 🤦‍♂️completely misread that. Probably because my trim was screwing up a couple wks ago and I just finished chasing that down.


It happens a lot to me but I have made myself read things twice because I tend to gloss over some text and my brain is selective which is not always accurate!


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## Scrob (Aug 26, 2015)

Slightly off topic, but did you find a deal on a replacement cowling? My buddy mistakingly cracked his brand new F70 cowling and a new replacement is like $1100!


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## DBStoots (Jul 9, 2011)

Bonesonthebrain said:


> Is there anything that could be touching the relay terminals or are they getting submerged?


No, the relays are in the back starboard side compartment, up high.



Loogie said:


> Only two places are closing the current to the jackplate motor. The switch, which sounds like it’s operational and the jackplate motor itself. I would bet your jackplate motor has water intrusion and it’s closing the circuit. The sporadic event definitely points to water intrusion. Let us know how you solve it. Glad your new cowl wasn’t on!


Any idea how to check to see if the motor has water in it? 


Scrob said:


> Slightly off topic, but did you find a deal on a replacement cowling? My buddy mistakingly cracked his brand new F70 cowling and a new replacement is like $1100!


I paid $703 and got it from Boats.net.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

DBStoots said:


> No, the relays are in the back starboard side compartment, up high.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Did you see post #3?


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## ek02 (May 8, 2012)

We have a CMC jack plate on a Sea Ark tunnel hull. It refused to work once unless I pounded on it with a plastic hammer. I took it apart and sure enough, it was full of water, in the electric motor. I dried it out with compressed air and sealed the rubber cover with " The Right Stuff", and no more problems. The Atlas Micro Jacker uses the same hydraulic cylinder as the CMC. As Loogie said, it could have water in the jack plate motor. A bit of work to get the motor out.


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## DBStoots (Jul 9, 2011)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Did you see post #3?


Smack, the pump wasn't failing to allow the Jacker to be lowered, it was going up without being switched on. Are you suggesting that the way to check to see if water has gotten into the motor is to check for contamination in the ISO100 hydraulic fluid or SAE 20/30 non detergent oil? If so, what do I do if I find water in the fluid?


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

DBStoots said:


> Smack, the pump wasn't failing to allow the Jacker to be lowered, it was going up without being switched on. Are you suggesting that the way to check to see if water has gotten into the motor is to check for contamination in the ISO100 hydraulic fluid or SAE 20/30 non detergent oil? If so, what do I do if I find water in the fluid?


I was reading your original post in between wells pressuring up and misread the last sentence and thought it went up on it’s own and you stopped it and it was stuck in the up position and you needed to lower it manually to get the cowling off...

I would recommend removing the actuator completely so you could completely drain the fluid and reseal the top but another one of the terrible engineering features of these plates is the top bolt that holds the actuator immediately gets corroded in the top of the actuator, botn sides of the plate and inside the aluminum sleeves so you can rarely remove the actuator without cutting the bolt in several places with a grinder and cutoff wheel. Even on a fellow member’s brand new plate the bolt had to be cut to do the Hull Marine reinforcement kit.


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## DBStoots (Jul 9, 2011)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> I was reading your original post in between wells pressuring up and misread the last sentence and thought it went up on it’s own and you stopped it and it was stuck in the up position and you needed to lower it manually to get the cowling off...
> 
> I would recommend removing the actuator completely so you could completely drain the fluid and reseal the top but another one of the terrible engineering features of these plates is the top bolt that holds the actuator immediately gets corroded in the top of the actuator, botn sides of the plate and inside the aluminum sleeves so you can rarely remove the actuator without cutting the bolt in several places with a grinder and cutoff wheel. Even on a fellow member’s brand new plate the bolt had to be cut to do the Hull Marine reinforcement kit.


Think I'd be better off replacing it with a Bob's?


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

DBStoots said:


> Think I'd be better off replacing it with a Bob's?


YES, YES, & YES! Go with a remote mount hydraulic unit though, proven darn near bullet proof! And for a cleaner install you can purchase the bulkhead fittings and two short hoses direct from Bob’s for a sweet install! Let me know if ya need/ want any help as I have installed well over a thousand units!


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

DBStoots said:


> Think I'd be better off replacing it with a Bob's?


Absolutely


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## ElLobo (Sep 14, 2020)

DBStoots said:


> Think I'd be better off replacing it with a Bob's?


Just make sure the Bob’s will fit between the sponsons. I know some of the models call for the deck joint to be cut out a bit to fit the Bob’s


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## DBStoots (Jul 9, 2011)

JC Designs said:


> YES, YES, & YES! Go with a remote mount hydraulic unit though, proven darn near bullet proof! And for a cleaner install you can purchase the bulkhead fittings and two short hoses direct from Bob’s for a sweet install! Let me know if ya need/ want any help as I have installed well over a thousand units!


Would a Bob's fit between the sponsons?


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Would a Bob's fit between the sponsons?
[/QUOTE]

Bob’s Flat’s Jack
Transom side mounting dimensions:
16-3/4" W x 13-3/4" H


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

DBStoots said:


> Would a Bob's fit between the sponsons?


I own a chainsaw and know a halfway decent glass guy!🤣🤣🤣


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## Capt.Ron (Mar 5, 2014)

I had a cowling, but our shop burned down to the ground about a week ago.


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## CKEAT (Aug 26, 2015)

I installed a bobs on my ‘12 pro. Was tight but it fit.

I would not hesitate to go with the “mini”. It says 50hp but they are solid. It is what I am going to do if this atlas I have with the HMP reinforcement kit doesn’t keep it from screwing up.


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## DBStoots (Jul 9, 2011)

@Smackdaddy53 and @JC Designs I wondered about the Bob's Mini as well. Do y'all think it would work on the 70 ok?


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## Tautog166 (Jul 7, 2018)

CKEAT said:


> I would not hesitate to go with the “mini”. It says 50hp but they are solid. It is what I am going to do if this atlas I have with the HMP reinforcement kit doesn’t keep it from screwing up.


I think the mini would handle a 70 better than the micro with the HMP kit would in a relatively short time. 

If the Bob’s mini is a narrower version of their standard jack plates I think it’s good to go. 

I switched out an almost new Atlas Micro with HMP kit installed from day one to a Bob’s Action Jack as soon as one became available. I didn’t have any issues with the micro, but just felt like it was coming with an etec 90 on it. Lost money on the whole deal, but I have peace of mind. With my jack plate choice at least.


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## HullMarineProducts (Apr 17, 2020)

I know we worked through a bunch of this from the beginning - have you tried swapping out the switch for a different switch? It's unlikely that something in the actuator is causing the problem. There is either a shorted wire somewhere between the relays and the switch or the switch is bad. Just because it tests okay doesn't mean that it doesn't have an intermittent short or some sort of corrosion issue internally. A new switch is pretty cheap compared to shooting straight toward a new jackplate.


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## DBStoots (Jul 9, 2011)

HullMarineProducts said:


> I know we worked through a bunch of this from the beginning - have you tried swapping out the switch for a different switch? It's unlikely that something in the actuator is causing the problem. There is either a shorted wire somewhere between the relays and the switch or the switch is bad. Just because it tests okay doesn't mean that it doesn't have an intermittent short or some sort of corrosion issue internally. A new switch is pretty cheap compared to shooting straight toward a new jackplate.


I'll give it a try! Thanks.


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