# Etec just dies



## Finsleft258 (Oct 7, 2018)

The jump in temperature is due to it not circulating water. This is the case with most engines. The temperature probe will pull the heat from the block and register a higher temperature without cooling water flowing.

What HP group?


----------



## JCE (Mar 10, 2019)

Finsleft258 said:


> The jump in temperature is due to it not circulating water. This is the case with most engines. The temperature probe will pull the heat from the block and register a higher temperature without cooling water flowing.
> 
> What HP group?


2011 - 150 Etec. This time it thru an error code for an exhaust valve so replaced it. Also found fuel ball was very soft. Sea trial tomorrow so we will see


----------



## JCE (Mar 10, 2019)

Finsleft258 said:


> The jump in temperature is due to it not circulating water. This is the case with most engines. The temperature probe will pull the heat from the block and register a higher temperature without cooling water flowing.
> 
> What HP group?


E150DPX11B. Sorry realized I didn’t provide


----------



## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

The very first thing I’d do is borrow a known good portable fuel tank (completely by-pass your existing fuel system) and run it on the water to see if that cures your problem since it might not be your motor...


----------



## JCE (Mar 10, 2019)

lemaymiami said:


> The very first thing I’d do is borrow a known good portable fuel tank (completely by-pass your existing fuel system) and run it on the water to see if that cures your problem since it might not be your motor...


thanks this is what we did yesterday and it seemed to resolve the issue so longer sea trial today after new primer ball and fuel lines.


----------



## MatthewAbbott (Feb 25, 2017)

I was having a similar issue with my 30hp etec. It would run (idling) for 30 minutes and die. It would restart and immediately die. Primer bulb would be soft. It ended up being the vapor separator (vst).


----------



## JCE (Mar 10, 2019)

Thanks. All seemed ok today after 20 minute run. Looks like another set of hoses falls victim to the ethanol monster


----------



## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

Next time you're at a reputable marine hardware store - make a point of looking at their fuel lines (will be on big spools...). What you're looking for is fuel line clearly marked "USCG RATED - ACOL" that's not all the info on the line itself but it will be repeated over and over again so you can be sure that the line is meant for fuel with alcohol in it... I'll tell anyone to avoid any fuel line that doesn't have those markings on it, period, since it probably was not meant to survive what alcohol can do to a fuel line.... That's the best reason I know of to avoid buying fuel lines at any big discount store since none of their lines are clearly marked....

Remember as well that you also have the fuel tank itself to be concerned about since a clogged fuel pickup or "gunk" in the bottom of a tank can produce the same troubles that a bad fuel can... You also have to take a look at the vent on any tank to make sure it's properly venting since an airlock in a tank can shut you down after a few minutes running time as well....

Aren't boats fun?


----------



## JCE (Mar 10, 2019)

lemaymiami said:


> Next time you're at a reputable marine hardware store - make a point of looking at their fuel lines (will be on big spools...). What you're looking for is fuel line clearly marked "USCG RATED - ACOL" that's not all the info on the line itself but it will be repeated over and over again so you can be sure that the line is meant for fuel with alcohol in it... I'll tell anyone to avoid any fuel line that doesn't have those markings on it, period, since it probably was not meant to survive what alcohol can do to a fuel line.... That's the best reason I know of to avoid buying fuel lines at any big discount store since none of their lines are clearly marked....
> 
> Remember as well that you also have the fuel tank itself to be concerned about since a clogged fuel pickup or "gunk" in the bottom of a tank can produce the same troubles that a bad fuel can... You also have to take a look at the vent on any tank to make sure it's properly venting since an airlock in a tank can shut you down after a few minutes running time as well....
> 
> Aren't boats fun?


Thanks. Yes I had to replace the fuel fill and overflow / vent line in the beginning of the season. There were all original lines and replaced with marine grade acol lines. Lessons learned from alcohol . Can’t wait to get out on NJ and get to ethanol free gas


----------



## JCE (Mar 10, 2019)

MatthewAbbott said:


> I was having a similar issue with my 30hp etec. It would run (idling) for 30 minutes and die. It would restart and immediately die. Primer bulb would be soft. It ended up being the vapor separator (vst).


Thanks Matthew. Did the computer show this. Only code I had was for a bad exhaust valve. BTW nice BT. I’m looking at a mosquito and strike


----------



## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

Something to think about... although alcohol laced fuel can cause problems in fuel tanks and in the lines... I've been running E-Tecs now since 2005 continuously (and just had engine #4 installed yesterday...) running nothing but gas with ethanol without the slightest motor problem at all... You do have to watch your system that gets the fuel to the motor - but E-Tecs will run on almost any fuel - they're not fuel sensitive like other makes are...


----------



## MatthewAbbott (Feb 25, 2017)

JCE said:


> Thanks Matthew. Did the computer show this. Only code I had was for a bad exhaust valve. BTW nice BT. I’m looking at a mosquito and strike


I believe it did. I took it to a shop so I’m not sure what the code was though.


----------

