# Possibly Honda problem



## jmrodandgun (Sep 20, 2013)

Test the voltage output of the outboard. I bet you find shenanigans afoot with the voltage regulator or the silicon controller stuck open.


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## Lagoonnewb (Apr 16, 2017)

jmrodandgun said:


> Test the voltage output of the outboard. I bet you find shenanigans afoot with the voltage regulator or the silicon controller stuck open.


Well I checked it on the battery with the motor running and my volt meter was saying 13.2-13.3


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## jmrodandgun (Sep 20, 2013)

Lagoonnewb said:


> Well I checked it on the battery with the motor running and my volt meter was saying 13.2-13.3


Sounds low. What does it read without the motor running?


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## Lagoonnewb (Apr 16, 2017)

jmrodandgun said:


> Sounds low. What does it read without the motor running?


So that voltage reading was taken when the battery was at 70%. I just went out and checked and battery was at 13.3v and then with the motor running 14.2-14.3v.
However this still doesn’t explain why the battery was still being drained when out on the water


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## jmrodandgun (Sep 20, 2013)

Lagoonnewb said:


> So that voltage reading was taken when the battery was at 70%. I just went out and checked and battery was at 13.3v and then with the motor running 14.2-14.3v.
> However this still doesn’t explain why the battery was still being drained when out on the water


The 70% here is not really a unit we can use to measure anything. A 12v battery has 6 cells at a minimum of 2.2 volts per cell, Or 13.2 volts. The regulator will read that voltage and try to maintain it usually in the 14v range depending on what's going on at that moment. There are too many variable to say for sure how that 70% figure was reached or what means exactly.

The blown fuse is suspicious. Test voltage regulator. There is a little silicon controlled rectifier. Find it. Test it. It should show an open circuit.


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## Lagoonnewb (Apr 16, 2017)

jmrodandgun said:


> The 70% here is not really a unit we can use to measure anything. A 12v battery has 6 cells at a minimum of 2.2 volts per cell, Or 13.2 volts. The regulator will read that voltage and try to maintain it usually in the 14v range depending on what's going on at that moment. There are too many variable to say for sure how that 70% figure was reached or what means exactly.
> 
> The blown fuse is suspicious. Test voltage regulator. There is a little silicon controlled rectifier. Find it. Test it. It should show an open circuit.


Will hopefully have time to check that out tomorrow, the good part about all of this is that everything is still under warranty. But the nearest service center is about an hour away lol trying not to make the drive until I have to


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## State fish rob (Jan 25, 2017)

Some stuff stays hot on my factory wired boat even w/ switch off. (Ignition switch , trim tilt )Battery disconnect only way to be sure. Ive seen crazy bleed off on boat voltage from all kinds of junk.


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## Lagoonnewb (Apr 16, 2017)

State fish rob said:


> Some stuff stays hot on my factory wired boat even w/ switch off. (Ignition switch , trim tilt )Battery disconnect only way to be sure. Ive seen crazy bleed off on boat voltage from all kinds of junk.


Trim and tilt and ignition I know for sure are not hot, same with my baitwell pump and trim tabs. I think the only thing that stays hot is my bilge pump but it never fills up so I don’t think that static drain is doing much. I might just buy a spare battery and keep it with me just Incase something we’re to go wrong, I’d rather not have the extra weight so I will keep diagnosing to find the issue


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Battery shut off switches are great. Perko makes a nice one.


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## jmrodandgun (Sep 20, 2013)

Lagoonnewb said:


> Trim and tilt and ignition I know for sure are not hot, same with my baitwell pump and trim tabs. I think the only thing that stays hot is my bilge pump but it never fills up so I don’t think that static drain is doing much. I might just buy a spare battery and keep it with me just Incase something we’re to go wrong, I’d rather not have the extra weight so I will keep diagnosing to find the issue


Does your bilge pump have a float switch or is it one of the ones that checks for water by running the pump?

Keep in mind that the battery light on your cluster is for the charging system and not the actual battery itself. If that light is coming on you're having regulator/rectifier issues or a bad charging coil on the alternator.

If the light comes on after start then you'r running the ignition system directly off the battery. I'd expect to have a dead or near dead battery at the ramp if the ride home was more than a couple minutes of runt time. Your symptoms are pointing towards the back of the boat and not at the battery.


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## Lagoonnewb (Apr 16, 2017)

jmrodandgun said:


> Does your bilge pump have a float switch or is it one of the ones that checks for water by running the pump?
> 
> Keep in mind that the battery light on your cluster is for the charging system and not the actual battery itself. If that light is coming on you're having regulator/rectifier issues or a bad charging coil on the alternator.


About 90% sure it has a float switch but will double check today. The battery light only came on when I go to start the motor, never came on when the motor was running when I was cruising around.


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## jmrodandgun (Sep 20, 2013)

Maybe @Boatbrains can tell us if these Tohandas use an internal regulator on the alternator or if you can easily test the charging coil. 

Maybe the fuse could have been faulty. I know it's possible and I know it has happened. I've been around a ton of broken shit and I've never seen it. Not even fiddling around with British cars.


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## Guest (Dec 4, 2018)

Not much to offer on a honda. I believe it’s most likely all in one reg/rect. But can’t guarantee. I do believe all advise give this far has been dead on which is why I haven’t chimed in with my two pennies yet.


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## Lagoonnewb (Apr 16, 2017)

Being everything electrical is a nightmare for me I’m 100% out of my comfort zone. I can do the basics and so far what has been mentioned seems within my reach lol

Is it possible the bad charging coil/rectifier is intermittently failing? That might explain why when I tested the battery voltage last night it showed 13.3 static voltage and 14.2-3v when motor is running. But before I charged the battery I had low static voltage.


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## State fish rob (Jan 25, 2017)

Jumper box. You can use as a spare if needed. Good luck


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