# Smallmouth 6wt rod



## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

Is this for smallmouths in small rivers or lakes. I don't think the BVK is the best option for that type of fishing. Instead, I'd consider the Mangrove, the Bob Clouser rod, The Pro II series or if it's open lakes, then the TiCrx in a 6wt. I'm assuming your bugs are big and weighted. How deep are the fish holding that you are trying to reach? What size hook and weight do you want to fish your bugs with? How big are the bugs? Or, are the bugs surface flies or poppers. Any pics of the bugs you can display?


----------



## CrappieFisherman (Mar 15, 2015)

Backwater said:


> Is this for smallmouths in small rivers or lakes. I don't think the BVK is the best option for that type of fishing. Instead, I'd consider the Mangrove, the Bob Clouser rod, The Pro II series or if it's open lakes, then the TiCrx in a 6wt. I'm assuming your bugs are big and weighted. How deep are the fish holding that you are trying to reach? What size hook and weight do you want to fish your bugs with? How big are the bugs? Or, are the bugs surface flies or poppers. Any pics of the bugs you can display?


I plan to fish local rivers and streams in the VA/MD area. For depth, I'm not planning too deep, but definitely plan to throw a weighted leader or a sinking tip line when I am in the larger, deeper rivers where I need to get down in current.

I plan to throw clousers, decievers, ck baitfish, and clawdads mostly, with some topwater thrown in. Nothing too large, with the largest being around size 2 (i have an 8 weight if I want to go bigger).


----------



## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

CrappieFisherman said:


> I plan to fish local rivers and streams in the VA/MD area. For depth, I'm not planning too deep, but definitely plan to throw a weighted leader or a sinking tip line when I am in the larger, deeper rivers where I need to get down in current.
> 
> I plan to throw clousers, decievers, ck baitfish, and clawdads mostly, with some topwater thrown in. Nothing too large, with the largest being around size 2 (i have an 8 weight if I want to go bigger).


Ok, good info to reply to.... 

Definitely try a Mangrove, Clouser Rod and a Pro II side by side and throw the same weighted fly with the bend of the hook cut off, hopefully casting on some pond water or something like that and try to see which one feels better for you. Your basically casting in close quarters and need a rod that can load short, throw heavy flies and have some backbone to handle some river smallies. The Mangrove might just be your rod. The Clouser rod is basically a Pro II with the TiCrx coating to better withstand impact from weighted flies. The older ones were shorter rods (8'10" I believe) and would be my choice for you over the 9 footer, if you can still find one online or in a fly shop.

Ted Haas


----------



## CrappieFisherman (Mar 15, 2015)

Backwater said:


> Ok, good info to reply to....
> 
> Definitely try a Mangrove, Bob Clouser Rod and a Pro II side by side and throw the same weighted fly with the bend of the hook cut off, hopefully casting on some pond water or something like that and try to see which one feels better for you. Your basically casting in close quarters and need a rod that can load short, throw heavy flies and have some backbone to handle some river smallies. The Mangrove might just be your rod.


Thanks for the reply. Do you know the differences between the mangrove and the bob clouser?

Additionally, do you know of any other rods by other manufacturers in this price range ($300) worth looking at? TFO does make some good no frills rods that get the job done, and I have yet to find anyone that really has a bad opinion on their performance...


----------



## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

CrappieFisherman said:


> Thanks for the reply. Do you know the differences between the mangrove and the bob clouser?
> 
> Additionally, do you know of any other rods by other manufacturers in this price range ($300) worth looking at? TFO does make some good no frills rods that get the job done, and I have yet to find anyone that really has a bad opinion on their performance...


Redington Preditor would be one to compare them to. But then again, what is the distance you are casting and how swift is the river currents (i.e... none, slow, med, fast). What's your tree cover behind you and are you fishing from a boat / drift boat on the bank on foot or standing in the stream throwing up stream? Are you mending the line?


----------



## CrappieFisherman (Mar 15, 2015)

Backwater said:


> Redington Preditor would be one to compare them to. But then again, what is the distance you are casting and how swift is the river currents (i.e... none, slow, med, fast). What's your tree cover behind you and are you fishing from a boat / drift boat on the bank on foot or standing in the stream throwing up stream? Are you mending the line?


 Less line mending than stripping...for where I fish, trees are usually less of an issue, and I fish a good mix of swift water and still. As for distance, while I'd like to throw a million feet like the next guy, I'd say 30-60 feet is the typical sweet spot, with times where I need to reach out to 70-80.

For my smallie trips, I am purely wade fishing.

Thanks for all of the help in directing my search...all good questions.


----------



## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

Curious, what is your 8wt and your 4wt and what do you like and dislike about each rod? That will help me/ or other people to get you dialed in the best choice that fits your casting preferences. Do you also use the 8wt for the smallies?


----------



## CrappieFisherman (Mar 15, 2015)

Backwater said:


> Curious, what is your 8wt and your 4wt and what do you like and dislike about each rod? That will help me/ or other people to get you dialed in the best choice that fits your casting preferences. Do you also use the 8wt for the smallies?


The 4 wt is a Bass Pro 270 fly rod. This particular rod is 8'6" and is used for surface poppers, dry flies, and small streamers (including small clousers up to size four). Overall, the rod is a mid flex, and is a pleasure to cast up to around 50-60', and then the mid flex really falls apart. Why I'm not looking at a BPS fly rod is the warrenty. Only having a one year warrenty is just not enough when close to the same price could get a lifetime.

The 8 weight is a TFO Pro Series II, and is a faster action rod, although still not fast enough to be outside the range of medium action. While not a bad rod, especially when casting a sinking line, I struggle with casting into the wind, shorter <25 casts, and longer >75' casts. With that said, the TFO Pro II is definitly my goto bass rod, as it just has more versitility compared to the BPS 270...although many of that versitility comes from it being an 8 weight. I've also noticed the 8 weight is really heavy on my wrist, and I definitely feel it after a long day of fishing, although that could be poor casting technique, as I am still learning (only been seriously fly fishing for over a year).


----------



## LowHydrogen (Dec 31, 2015)

CrappieFisherman said:


> The 4 wt is a Bass Pro 270 fly rod. This particular rod is 8'6" and is used for surface poppers, dry flies, and small streamers (including small clousers up to size four). Overall, the rod is a mid flex, and is a pleasure to cast up to around 50-60', and then the mid flex really falls apart. Why I'm not looking at a BPS fly rod is the warrenty. Only having a one year warrenty is just not enough when close to the same price could get a lifetime.
> 
> The 8 weight is a TFO Pro Series II, and is a faster action rod, although still not fast enough to be outside the range of medium action. While not a bad rod, especially when casting a sinking line, I struggle with casting into the wind, shorter <25 casts, and longer >75' casts. With that said, the TFO Pro II is definitly my goto bass rod, as it just has more versitility compared to the BPS 270...although many of that versitility comes from it being an 8 weight. I've also noticed the 8 weight is really heavy on my wrist, and I definitely feel it after a long day of fishing, although that could be poor casting technique, as I am still learning (only been seriously fly fishing for over a year).


I'll try to be brief.. 
If wind is the enemy, then line speed is your friend. You don't always need an ultra fast rod to achieve a decent amount of line speed, because that same ultra fast rod will hurt you when really close in (the <25' casts you mention) try double hauling but go further (longer) and more aggressively (faster) if you develop a nasty tailing loop (likely, at least for me) delay the haul till a little later in the fwd stroke (when rod is at or a breath past midway through the stroke.

If your wrist hurts..

Concentrate on your grip on the rod, I notice the same thing among people trying to learn to TIG weld, they're concentrating so hard on how to weld and the puddle isn't doing what they want, that they start this crush grip business. Your wrist should not be breaking over (windshield wiper) but you're also not trying to reform the cork by grip lol.

With all that said, there's a Hell of a deal on these right now, and only ones left are in 6wt. May suit your needs, don't know for sure, I've never thrown one but @Backwater probably has.. we'll see what he says...

Good Luck
LH

http://www.steepandcheap.com/tfo-pr...pZ2h0IEZseSBSb2RzOjE6MjpzYWNDYXQxMjExMDAwNQ==


----------



## CrappieFisherman (Mar 15, 2015)

LowHydrogen said:


> I'll try to be brief..
> If wind is the enemy, then line speed is your friend. You don't always need an ultra fast rod to achieve a decent amount of line speed, because that same ultra fast rod will hurt you when really close in (the <25' casts you mention) try double hauling but go further (longer) and more aggressively (faster) if you develop a nasty tailing loop (likely, at least for me) delay the haul till a little later in the fwd stroke (when rod is at or a breath past midway through the stroke.
> 
> If your wrist hurts..
> ...


Wow, that is a nice deal! Hey, I like shiny things as much as the next person, but I also like green pockets 

Thanks for the tips on casting, and line speed vs rod action. I'll be more focused on my grip to see if I am trying to create a new diamond handle by holding it too hard (definitely could be the case).


----------



## LowHydrogen (Dec 31, 2015)

Also @CrappieFisherman that's a pretty cool blog you've got going! It's nice reading that kind of stuff written by a normal guy not some shill pushing the latest greatest whatever. 

I should have mentioned/asked in that last post, I struggle with sinking lines when going for longer distance, you mentioned throwing a weighted leader,
1. Are you using fluorocarbon leader? if so, are you tying it yourself, and what flavor are you tying (lbs?,lengths? particularly the butt section?) Reason being, if you could switch to fluoro (sinks easier than mono) and just add a split-shot or two, you may see much easier casting by going with a little longer fluoro leader (slightly weighted) from a normal WF floating or bass taper.
2. Do you tie your own flies? If not, are they bought from someone who ties locally? If yes to either of these you could have some or your slower sinking patterns tied/under-wrapped with lead wire in conjunction with the fluoro leader, to get them to sink faster without throwing a sink tip line.

The disclaimer...If you can't tell, I'm not a fan of sink-tips on single handed rods, Spey/Skagit is another story, but I mostly don't like them single-hand because I suck at casting them. Most "true" fly fisherman would encourage spending time learning to cast them more effectively, then after you do, turn around and tell you that sinking line isn't "true" fly fishing lol. I mostly don't like them on single-hand rods because I cant cast them very far and I really have hell roll casting them with any distance or accuracy (both drawbacks of my casting ability more than the line). When I do use them (I do) I almost always drop 1 rod weight with the line (example 8wt rod with 7wt 4"-6"/ips) and that seems to help overcome my shortfalls and give me a bit more distance.

Sorry for the long post, but it's hard to convey some of the topics without getting into the minutiae.

LH


----------



## CrappieFisherman (Mar 15, 2015)

LowHydrogen said:


> Also @CrappieFisherman that's a pretty cool blog you've got going! It's nice reading that kind of stuff written by a normal guy not some shill pushing the latest greatest whatever.
> 
> I should have mentioned/asked in that last post, I struggle with sinking lines when going for longer distance, you mentioned throwing a weighted leader,
> 1. Are you using fluorocarbon leader? if so, are you tying it yourself, and what flavor are you tying (lbs?,lengths? particularly the butt section?) Reason being, if you could switch to fluoro (sinks easier than mono) and just add a split-shot or two, you may see much easier casting by going with a little longer fluoro leader (slightly weighted) from a normal WF floating or bass taper.
> ...


Thanks for the compliments! I started the blog more for kicks, and to have family see what I've been up to, but I find that it also gets me to pay more attention while I am out fishing, as well as what is working, and what isn't, so it's been a great personal learning tool. ...and no worries on lengthy posts, that's why I like this site, because people care enough to go into the minutiae.

The leader I sometimes throw is:
http://www.basspro.com/RIO-Freshwater-VersiLeader/product/1402050911381/
http://www.basspro.com/RIO-Freshwater-VersiLeader/product/1402050911381/
After the weighted leader ends, I attach a 4' section of tippet, usually 16lb fluoro. It's rare that I throw on a sinking leader, but I find it really helps when I am fishing in deeper whitewater (I fish near some of the dams on the Potomac River) and want the fly to get down a foot or so. The weighted leader is really not needed for calmer water.

The full sinking line I throw is only for when I am fishing a lake or reservoir, especially now while it is so warm. During these times, I like to work a clouser or half-n-half just above the bottom for largemouth...for rivers, I wouldn't dream of trying to throw a sinking line while wading...just...seems...like that won't end in anything other than aggravation 

I do enjoy tying my own flies, and, yes, I have some lead wire for exactly what you're mentioning 

As for roll casting a full sink line...yeah, I gave that up after many, hilarious, attempts. I'm sure some can, but I definitely cannot. This also goes for waterloading...yeah that ends with my getting wrapped by my own line. With that said, I find that regular casting with a full sink line is easier. The heavier, and smaller diameter, line loads the rod faster, and I need fewer false casts to shoot the line. I'm not as accurate, but it works for me since often I'm not trying to hit a plate when working a sinking line, and a hula hoop is all I'm after (I am working an area, and searching for the fish, since I cannot see the deeper fish). Now, even though I find I can cast easier, casting a sinking line all day will beat you up!


----------



## LowHydrogen (Dec 31, 2015)

Cool. I've never seen that product before, but it looks kind of like a MOW tip on a Skagit setup.

Speaking of such things, have you ever considered a Skagit rod. I've just started learning it in the last year or so. They're really suited to what you're describing, river fishing fast water with limited room for backcasting. Think about being able to easily bomb out 100+' of sink tip line with minimal effort and virtually no line going out behind you.

At any rate, whatever rod you go with, let us know how it does. We like to have the feedback about what works where. I'm not sure if they have a 6wt or not but Allen has their Azimuth series on sale right now for $150, half of what they were $310. http://www.allenflyfishing.com/azimuth-rod-series this is probably a bit faster rod than you're looking for but thought it was worth a mention since it's a decent deal. I just reviewed the same rod in a 10' 7wt. You should be able to find it here in the fly forum.

LH


----------



## CrappieFisherman (Mar 15, 2015)

LowHydrogen said:


> Cool. I've never seen that product before, but it looks kind of like a MOW tip on a Skagit setup.
> 
> Speaking of such things, have you ever considered a Skagit rod. I've just started learning it in the last year or so. They're really suited to what you're describing, river fishing fast water with limited room for backcasting. Think about being able to easily bomb out 100+' of sink tip line with minimal effort and virtually no line going out behind you.
> 
> ...


Skagit sounds interesting...seems like you have a very heavy head, allowing you to load very quickly, and transfer lots of energy...far closer to spin casting in physics, but still allowing a featherlight fly to be cast...everyone has their own definition of fly fishing, but I feel that, at its core, fly fishing is about casting the line, which carries the lure/fly, versus casting the lure which carries the line.

...I'm also liking all of these sales...going to force me to buy my 6 weight earlier than originally planned


----------



## LowHydrogen (Dec 31, 2015)

Yes heavy head comparatively speaking and you're actually water loading the rod, Skagit is a sustained "anchor" cast. With a TON of variations, snap T, circle spey, double spey, perry poke.....and on and on

Check out this video, his snake roll isn't the greatest likely because he's positioned so high above the water and holding 40 ft of line out the tip but......you'll see how dynamic and powerful the cast is with very little force and strain by the caster. It's a great casting method for people with shoulder injuries because you're not really raising your arms. Just watch the line bang the rod at the end of the cast, that's what you want because that abrupt stop will turn over that heavy tip and massive flies if needed. The drawback being the head lands with some authority making it only suited to rough water, deep water, or fish that can't be easily spooked by line landing hard... but in the right situation....man that dude is casting 110 feet with NO BACKCAST!! haha


----------



## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

Hey CrappieFisherman, I was going to suggest the TFO Clouser rod in the 9ft 6wt. The Pro series is softer than the Pro II. You may even try casting the Pro II series in a 6wt. I think the winds might effect the Mangrove in the 6wt if you are having problems with that. Again, I would also try out the Redington Predator.

But here's a rod we've been recently talking about, was ranked high in the 8wt shootout and is currently on sale. I think for the price, it's a hot rod.

http://www.bigsupplyshop.com/Fenwick-A906-4-AETOS-9-4-PC-6wt-FLY-RO-1365138_p_56387.html






We can talk about casting, but I agree you really need a good 6wt.


----------



## CrappieFisherman (Mar 15, 2015)

Backwater said:


> Hey CrappieFisherman, I was going to suggest the TFO Clouser rod in the 9ft 6wt. The Pro series is softer than the Pro II. You may even try casting the Pro II series in a 6wt. I think the winds might effect the Mangrove in the 6wt if you are having problems with that. Again, I would also try out the Redington Predator.
> 
> But here's a rod we've been recently talking about, was ranked high in the 8wt shootout and is currently on sale. I think for the price, it's a hot rod.
> 
> ...


I haven't been fully sold on a rod just yet, but I remember reading about that Fenwick...and at $100, I can afford to take a chance...going to give it a night or two...especially since I won't be able to try it before I buy it.


----------



## coconutgroves (Sep 23, 2013)

Ross FlyStik. Inexpensive, great length for tighter conditions, and a great bass rod. I use the 6 and 8 for all bass species. Easy to cast and can handle some heavy sink tip lines. And you won't cry if you break one. I just snapped a Winston 6 wt on a recent bass trip. Luckily a cold beer was close by to comfort me.


----------



## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

Have you guys ever seen a rod that was labeled a 5/6 or 7/8. etc..?? It's because it's designed for a 5wt sinking line or 6wt floating line, etc.. since the sinking lines are heavier. By the way CF, what is the sinking line you are throwing?

LH, don't let me see you throwing split shots on your tippets!   Using a clear intermediate sink tip line (fishes almost lke a floater) will keep from having to use that, if not a full sink line. Also the sinking leaders and you can also use an add-on lead core line to give added weight without throwing split shot around, which ends up looking ugly in your casting.

Btw with wading in rivers, I hope you boys are using stripping baskets. If not, I don't feel sorry for you! 

LH, there are some limited amount of wrist breaking in a good cast. The where, when and how much is the key.

LH, you can use skagit and spey casting techniques with single handed rods as well, especially in flowing rivers. Just wouldn't be able to throw as far. Also, you don't have to roll cast a sink line for your cast. Your just simply using a roll cast to get the line out up off the water and then back cast it and shoot it back out. Otherwise, just slowly pick it up as if you were water loading, instead of trying to rip it up off the water.

Ted Haas


----------



## LowHydrogen (Dec 31, 2015)

@CrappieFisherman ,
Allen will take that Azimuth back if you don't like it as long as you don't pull the plastic off the grip/butt. Just an FYI based on that comment, so if you were undecided I'd go with one I could return and try it first.

@Backwater,
Split shots...Yeah guilty as charged, not a common practice at all, but then again, *ALL SHAME* leaves me if the fish are biting and I don't have flies with barbell eyes to get me where I want to be LOL. I've got a basket but when this one is broken/done/lost, I'm building the $2.00 "BHaasKET" with the zip ties!!! Looks as or more effective as the one I've got now lol.


----------



## CrappieFisherman (Mar 15, 2015)

The sinking line I am using for my 8 wt is the Orvis Hydros HD Depth Charge @ 250 G. I definitely like the line, and I had one of those $25 off coupons, so that made the price a bit easier...I tend to spend money on my lines.

Stripping Baskets! When I am occasionally wading up to my chest, who needs a stripping basket  ...but, yeah, that "BHaasKET" looks like a winner....if I do end up trying to use a intermediate or full sink line in moving water, a basket will be a requirement.

Interesting tip on retrieving the sinking line...I'll have to try that roll cast to bring the line up, although I have caught a few fish stripping close to the boat to retrieve the line.

Also, good to know Allen takes returns. Btw, that Ross FlyStick looks nice, but I couldn't find anyone currently selling them...did they get discontinued?


----------



## siouxsioux (Jul 30, 2016)

A lot of good rods out there in your price range like the Echo 3 ( might be right over 300). Not sure what kind of rivers you are trying to cover for small mouth but since someone already mentioned spey casting, have you looked into any switch rods? When covering a larger river for bass, striper, steelhead or ever large browns. I use a 6-8wt switch with a skagit head. With a 6wt switch you could also cast an 8wt WF line if you weren't interested in spey casting. This is a Beulah 6-7 10'4 switch.









Rod reel and skagit you could pick up for around $450 used from spey pages.

here are a few.

4wt switch which is more of a 6wt rod.
http://www.speypages.com/speyclave/92-spey-classifieds/273785-echo-switch-rod-106-4weight.html

6-7 beulah - this is a bad bitch of a rod
http://www.speypages.com/speyclave/92-spey-classifieds/243569-fs-beulah-106-6-7-a.html

Sorry if this is out of left field, but why not open a new can of worms.


----------



## CrappieFisherman (Mar 15, 2015)

Siouxsioux, one day I'll probably take the plunge into spey rods, but I'm still trying to master a single handed rod  Additionally, while the primary goal of this 6 wt is to wade fish for river smallies, I'd like to get double duty out of it, and use it on my boat.


----------



## siouxsioux (Jul 30, 2016)

I hear ya. A lot of folks use the shorter switch rods and an overhead casting only rod, depending on the type of river you fish. I take my switch on the boat for striper a good bit because the extra foot and a half on the rod helps add some serious distance. 

Or some just use it as a conversation piece.


----------



## bjtripp83 (Aug 10, 2015)

Ross Rx, always discounted guess b/c not a popular seller, but i love throwing rio redfish on my 6 wt. 

http://www.backcountry.com/ross-rx-...jZvhSNB515xt0BOIJ00F8RoCWeTw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds


----------



## coconutgroves (Sep 23, 2013)

@CrappieFisherman - looks like my info is out of date. I'm usually good on keeping up with this stuff. Ross quit making fly rods mid last year. While I have never used them, Sage had a bass series out, though they are substantially more than what the FlyStik was. What a bummer - those are great rods for the money. At 7'11" they packed a punch when casting.


----------



## CrappieFisherman (Mar 15, 2015)

coconutgroves said:


> @CrappieFisherman - looks like my info is out of date. I'm usually good on keeping up with this stuff. Ross quit making fly rods mid last year. While I have never used them, Sage had a bass series out, though they are substantially more than what the FlyStik was. What a bummer - those are great rods for the money. At 7'11" they packed a punch when casting.


 yeah, I get the sense that the fly rod business is very fickle, and difficult to get established...and stay there


----------



## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

coconutgroves said:


> @CrappieFisherman - At 7'11" they packed a punch when casting.


Well most 6wts at that lenght will pack a good punch. But not the best for wading where you need help keeping line up off the water and also for mending. That's why I think a 9ft rod is better for him.


----------



## CrappieFisherman (Mar 15, 2015)

Ok, just had a chance to throw the Mangrove and Clouser.

Granted, I haven't fished either, but here is what I noticed:

The Mangrove felt good casting and picking up line from various distances. It had a bit slower flex, and I could feel the rod load more. Because of all of this, the rod did feel much lighter in my hand, even though the weights of the two rods aren't all that different. With that said, the Mangrove did start to struggle at the longer distances.

The Clouser felt like a much stiffer rod, and had a faster action in comparison. Closer range casting was a bit of a struggle, but longer distances felt the rod load better, and punch harder. Of the two, this rod is definitely the rod that will hand distance and wind better, with tighter loops. With that said, it is also less forgiving. If you are a good caster, this rod will be great for keeping the fly in the strike zone, with the ability cast far, strip a few feet, and recast with most of the line still out. As the expert at the shop explained, this was what the Clouser rod was designed for.

Of the two, my preference is for the Mangrove. I plan to purchase in late September, so I should still have plenty of time to wet test against some smallies. For reels, I was going to pair with the Lamson Liquid...that three pack is just too good to pass up.

Many thanks to all for the help!


----------



## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

CrappieFisherman said:


> Ok, just had a chance to throw the Mangrove and Clouser.
> 
> Granted, I haven't fished either, but here is what I noticed:
> 
> ...


I know that is the problem with the Mangrove (softer action and struggles with distance) I have a question tho. Were you throwing a floater or sink tip? If the floater and you want to use a sink tip, then I would go back to that shop and throw both rods again with the heavier sink tip and see how both rods behave, especially on some water like a casting pond or retention pond. You may see the behaviors change.


----------



## CrappieFisherman (Mar 15, 2015)

Unfortunately, they do not have a casting pond at the shop. For the test, I was only throwing floating lines, without a heavy fly or sink tip. True, this does mean I won't get the best representation of these rods. Unfortunately, I don't have a fly shop around with the ability to test in water.


----------



## Ed Constantini (Aug 8, 2016)

CrappieFisherman said:


> Hey Everyone,
> 
> I'm starting my research on a new 6 wt fly rod for targeting smallmouth bass. Already, I have 2, 4, and 8 wt rods (see my gap), so I'm not worried about a 6wt not handling the really big bass bugs, since I have an 8 wt for that.
> 
> ...


I have fished here in Minnesota and used the TFO Mangrove here in Minnesota on the Mississippi River that holds SM Bass over 20", it is a very versatile rod and I would say it has a fast action not a slow one. Here is a link to Tim Holschlag's Smallmouth Angler web-site that discusses the pluses of the TFO Mangrove series. http://www.smallmouthflyangler.com/articles/arti_best-rod-smallmouth-bass-fly-fishing.php
Tight Lines


----------



## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

Ed Constantini said:


> I have fished here in Minnesota and used the TFO Mangrove here in Minnesota on the Mississippi River that holds SM Bass over 20", it is a very versatile rod and I would say it has a fast action not a slow one. Here is a link to Tim Holschlag's Smallmouth Angler web-site that discusses the pluses of the TFO Mangrove series. http://www.smallmouthflyangler.com/articles/arti_best-rod-smallmouth-bass-fly-fishing.php
> Tight Lines



Good info. You guys up north thing everything we have for saltwater is fast! 

Welcome to the MS Fly Fishing forum!


----------

