# Awlgrip vs Alexseal



## ElHydro (May 18, 2017)

I used the Alexseal 501 on my 18 HPX to redo my nonskid/repaint the deck. I ended up going w/the SoftSand rubber particles and covered that w/the Alexseal. But I rolled the paint on--didn't spray. I really love the way it turned out and have had no issues. 

Andy at Boatworks Today has a bunch of great instructional videos on his website and YouTube. I have 0 professional experience w/painting but I followed his instructions and am really happy w/the results. Here's his YouTube and website:














Boatworks Today | Boating Help For The DIY


Boating Help For The DIY on Boatworks Today…




www.boatworkstoday.com


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

Alexseal all the way! Awlgrip is a good system but I prefer the repairability and ease of use of the Alexseal! The rolling additive and no sprayer is needed. It flows out just as good as sprayed when done properly.


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## MikeChamp12 (May 17, 2021)

I’ve only worked with alexseal and I love their products. I’ve sprayed and rolled the 501 paint. Haven’t done any decks yet.


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## birdyshooter (Sep 17, 2019)

Alexseal definitely is starting to look like the way to go. If I can roll it with the additive I just might give it a go. My only concern would be getting proper coverage on my mountainous non-skid on this Silver King. I’m currently rolling a one part on a small sailboat with excellent results thinning with Flow. I’ll do my research on their product line and see what I’ll I need to put it all together. Thanks guys!!


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## birdyshooter (Sep 17, 2019)

ElHydro said:


> I used the Alexseal 501 on my 18 HPX to redo my nonskid/repaint the deck. I ended up going w/the SoftSand rubber particles and covered that w/the Alexseal. But I rolled the paint on--didn't spray. I really love the way it turned out and have had no issues.
> 
> Andy at Boatworks Today has a bunch of great instructional videos on his website and YouTube. I have 0 professional experience w/painting but I followed his instructions and am really happy w/the results. Here's his YouTube and website:
> 
> ...


Andy is freaking awesome!! He makes me enjoy watching paint dry. 🤣😂🤣


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## BrownDog (Jun 22, 2019)

If putting it on the floor with texture, I would just roll it on yourself.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

if you are talking about your SilverKing. I hope you aren't making a mistake. those skiffs have that sharp pyramidal non skid. its like a cheese grater on bare knees lol. I would be concerned that even a 2 part urethane will wear off those tips and edges rather quickly. have you tried scrubbing vigorously with soft scrub with bleach and pressure washing?? mine was really bad when I got the boat and I got it bright white.

when I bought the boat










now.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

another concern I have, and an even bigger one is that to get paint to bond you have to sand before painting to give the surface some "tooth". there is no way you are going to be able to sand down into that pattern. if the paint starts peeling it will be pretty much impossible to fix. it did take some elbow grease to get mine clean, but it still looks good to this day. 

when I wash the deck every time I fish, I use a stiff deck brish and add a little laundry bleach into the soapy water. I add the bleach after I wash the hull so as not to strip the wax off the hull and then wash the deck.


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## birdyshooter (Sep 17, 2019)

@devrep yup dealing with this non-skid is my concern. I’m definitely not going to be able to sand it . Basically I’ll only be able to clean and strip the best I can then primer. My problem is that I have the two tone deck(white/blue) and it’s heavily oxidized, especially the blue. It’s wicked porous as well, stains just looking at it. Was hoping to paint to have something that would seal it and offer easier maintenance.


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

birdyshooter said:


> Alexseal definitely is starting to look like the way to go. If I can roll it with the additive I just might give it a go. My only concern would be getting proper coverage on my mountainous non-skid on this Silver King. I’m currently rolling a one part on a small sailboat with excellent results thinning with Flow. I’ll do my research on their product line and see what I’ll I need to put it all together. Thanks guys!!





birdyshooter said:


> Multiple thin coats is the key. It goes a long way.
> 
> @devrep yup dealing with this non-skid is my concern. I’m definitely not going to be able to sand it . Basically I’ll only be able to clean and strip the best I can then primer. My problem is that I have the two tone deck(white/blue) and it’s heavily oxidized, especially the blue. It’s wicked porous as well, stains just looking at it. Was hoping to paint to have something that would seal it and offer easier maintenance.


A new and degreased stainless steal wire brush and some elbow grease will give you plenty to bond to. Work the brush front to back, side to side, and 45/45 for the best results.


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## birdyshooter (Sep 17, 2019)

I’m about to go nuclear on compounding and buffing these decks and floor. If it doesn’t work out the way I like, painting will be the next option.


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## jbyrum (Jan 12, 2015)

Molded nonskid is tough to get looking good. If you decide to paint, I'd strongly suggest a full redo. I was concerned about how much grip I'd have left after multiple coats of primer and topcoat. I followed basically the same procedure in the video above and am pleased with the results.


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## birdyshooter (Sep 17, 2019)

jbyrum said:


> Molded nonskid is tough to get looking good. If you decide to paint, I'd strongly suggest a full redo. I was concerned about how much grip I'd have left after multiple coats of primer and topcoat. I followed basically the same procedure in the video above and am pleased with the results.
> 
> 
> View attachment 201366
> ...


Oh wow. So you sanded/ground off the old molded non-skid and reapplied?


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

birdyshooter said:


> @devrep yup dealing with this non-skid is my concern. I’m definitely not going to be able to sand it . Basically I’ll only be able to clean and strip the best I can then primer. My problem is that I have the two tone deck(white/blue) and it’s heavily oxidized, especially the blue. It’s wicked porous as well, stains just looking at it. Was hoping to paint to have something that would seal it and offer easier maintenance.


that weird. mine's not porous at all. I mean I get stains during use but they cone out.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

JC Designs said:


> A new and degreased stainless steal wire brush and some elbow grease will give you plenty to bond to. Work the brush front to back, side to side, and 45/45 for the best results.


I've used small stainless wire brushes to work a few small spots and they scratch the gelcoat. I'd be afraid the scratches would print thru the paint.


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

devrep said:


> I've used small stainless wire brushes to work a few small spots and they scratch the gelcoat. I'd be afraid the scratches would print thru the paint.


Not so much. The finish primer fills them mostly. Tough to explain but it works. Personally, I would hit with a square pad grinder and completely re do if it were on my boat. Some clients like the molded crap though so one has to get creative.


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## birdyshooter (Sep 17, 2019)

JC Designs said:


> Not so much. The finish primer fills them mostly. Tough to explain but it works. Personally, I would hit with a square pad grinder and completely re do if it were on my boat. Some clients like the molded crap though so one has to get creative.


Yup. Any primer should easily fill brush scratches. I’d like to save the molded non skid, because for no other reason….. it’s iconic to the boat. Thanks for the wealth of knowledge. Nothing major will take place till this fall when I’ll have more time to tinker with it.


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## jbyrum (Jan 12, 2015)

birdyshooter said:


> Oh wow. So you sanded/ground off the old molded non-skid and reapplied?


Yes, I taped off the slick finish areas so I didn't make any more work for myself. Quick hit with a disc grinder to knock off the molded texture, then fairing compound to level out my uneven sanding marks. I went back with medium grit softsand. It's got enough grip to keep you from slipping, but doesn't kill your bare feet or knees. I'd highly recommend it.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

primer should be sanded before top coating too. very skeptical but not my skiff. I think if it was mine and it was that bad and I was going to keep it I would grind off the non-skid and do over with soft sand like I've been doing with my waterman. would be weird to see a SilverKing without the original but... I've seen about a half dozen of these boats and another bunch online and never seen whet you described. maybe they effed up at the factory.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

when I ground the non-skid off my yellow boat recently, I used a 6" air sander with 36 grit PSA discs. HB used some really hard grit and it was a fight between the grit and the sanding discs to see which would sand which off. you do need a 2 stage compressor to keep one of these going though.


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

devrep said:


> primer should be sanded before top coating too. very skeptical but not my skiff. I think if it was mine and it was that bad and I was going to keep it I would grind off the non-skid and do over with soft sand like I've been doing with my waterman. would be weird to see a SilverKing without the original but... I've seen about a half dozen of these boats and another bunch online and never seen whet you described. maybe they effed up at the factory.


24hr recoat window applies to their topcoat ober finish primer as well. So… as long as he primes it tonighy and gets that first coat of top coat on tomorrow morning it will actually end up being a chemical bond vs a mechanical bond.


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## birdyshooter (Sep 17, 2019)

JC Designs said:


> 24hr recoat window applies to their topcoat ober finish primer as well. So… as long as he primes it tonighy and gets that first coat of top coat on tomorrow morning it will actually end up being a chemical bond vs a mechanical bond.


Yup. As long as you work within the windows, you can do some amazing stuff. Spraying thin is going to be the key here if I go that route.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

maybe pick a small spot and hit it with heavy then med grit buffing compound with a heavy wool pad. if it works then use a polishing compound like Finess-it and then a PTEF polish. you might go thru a bunch of pads though.


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## Capnredfish (Feb 1, 2012)

My big question. Two tone. One color with non skid and different color border.
Trying to wrap my head around a bunch of pre taping that gets removed in layers.


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