# Trim/tilt Gremlins



## SomaliPirate (Feb 5, 2016)

Yammy 60 2 stroke. The tilt/trim has been getting sketchy and not wanting to work sometimes. I don't think it's the switch at the controls, because when it's not working, I can hear some solenoid-y type clicking coming from back at the motor. I don't think it's the tilt/trim unit itself, because when it's working, it's working fine. What do y'all think, solenoid/relay type issue? Try to troubleshoot or just replace that stuff?


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## Sabalon (Aug 16, 2016)

Same intermittent trouble on my F70. Won’t go down for a minute then works fine. From console or on engine switch.


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## Guest (Feb 4, 2019)

Check and clean all of your grounds! If you are hearing a click at the motor when you hit the switch then the switch is working. Chances are you have a bad ground or the relay/s are on their way out.


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## SomaliPirate (Feb 5, 2016)

Boatbrains said:


> Check and clean all of your grounds! If you are hearing a click at the motor when you hit the switch then the switch is working. Chances are you have a bad ground or the relay/s are on their way out.


Hose them down with spray type electronics cleaner?


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## Guest (Feb 4, 2019)

SomaliPirate said:


> Hose them down with spray type electronics cleaner?


No! Remove them and clean them with a wire brush, steel wool, 220/320 grit sand paper and re install. Then hose them down with corrosion inhibitor of your choice. If it still just clicks, disconnect the tnt unit from relay and test relay output using a volt meter. If output is good then your tnt motor or wiring are at fault. If voltage is low or non existent then it’s the relay/s. Clean those grounds before testing as a bad ground can/will cause a bad reading.


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## SomaliPirate (Feb 5, 2016)

Boatbrains said:


> No! Remove them and clean them with a wire brush, steel wool, 220/320 grit sand paper and re install. Then hose them down with corrosion inhibitor of your choice. If it still just clicks, disconnect the tnt unit from relay and test relay output using a volt meter. If output is good then your tnt motor or wiring are at fault. If voltage is low or non existent then it’s the relay/s. Clean those grounds before testing as a bad ground can/will cause a bad reading.


Come on man, lemme have an easy fix!


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## Guest (Feb 4, 2019)

SomaliPirate said:


> Come on man, lemme have an easy fix!


Fix is easy, finding the problem takes the effort!


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## sjrobin (Jul 13, 2015)

If the tilt/trim motor is running with either the up/down switch and only tilts/trims intermittently, add fluid and check for leaks on one of the three rams.


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## MariettaMike (Jun 14, 2012)

There are three parts to a electro-hydraulic trim tilt system.

1) The controls side of the electrical system from the buttons to the relays under your engine cowling.
2) The pump motor side of the electrical system from the relays to the hydraulic pump motor.
3) The hydraulic side including the pump, fluid, and cylinder ram.
Each system has its own input and output requirements to function per design.

Worst case scenario is you loosen the left hand threaded screw for the hydraulic ram by pass with a screwdriver and tilt your engine manually. Then use the pin to trim the old fashioned way.


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## SomaliPirate (Feb 5, 2016)

Fluid, motor and rams seem to be good. Looks like its my old nemesis, electrical stuff. It will be a good weekend project for me on Sunday if I can get the axles replaced in my car on Saturday.


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## Guest (Feb 5, 2019)

Dang you hit right in the gut, ditto! I’ll just 
have to getter done


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## taffrail (Dec 23, 2018)

Boatbrains said:


> Check and clean all of your grounds! If you are hearing a click at the motor when you hit the switch then the switch is working. Chances are you have a bad ground or the relay/s are on their way out.


What he said. Was my problem.


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## SeaDrifter (Apr 4, 2018)

Mine suddenly went out without warning. The friday before last it worked just fine then when I went out the other day, nothing, just the solenoid clicking. I will check the ground this evening (clean it up real good)! I hope that cures it!!! A 2004 with only 232 hours and runs like a top! What can I say though, my fishing holes are close by...


Michael


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## SomaliPirate (Feb 5, 2016)

Ok, status update. I pulled the relay, cleaned up all the contacts nice and shiny, tightened everything down and reinstalled. Now it doesn't work at all. I just get some clicking at the relay. Stupid question: what ground am I looking for? It the relay grounded by it being bolted to the motor? I'm open to ideas, as a new relay is like $150.


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## Guest (Feb 25, 2019)

Bring it to me and I’ll diagnose it for ya brother!


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## SomaliPirate (Feb 5, 2016)

Boatbrains said:


> Bring it to me and I’ll diagnose it for ya brother!


I may have to. The flip flop didn't even work!


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## SeaDrifter (Apr 4, 2018)

Mine ended up being the motor. The previous owner coated it with JB Weld and it worked, for a little bit anyway.


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## SomaliPirate (Feb 5, 2016)

damn, JB Weld...


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## taffrail (Dec 23, 2018)

SomaliPirate said:


> I may have to. The flip flop didn't even work!


Ohms check the switch. First rule of electrical problems: Check the easy stuff first. Fuse, switch, etc. (Tiny bubbles in the wine........make boat owning easier.....)


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## SomaliPirate (Feb 5, 2016)

taffrail said:


> Ohms check the switch. First rule of electrical problems: Check the easy stuff first. Fuse, switch, etc. (Tiny bubbles in the wine........make boat owning easier.....)


Yep, switch is good, I checked that first. I'm getting some clicking at the solenoid but no juice. I think my next step is to run power directly to the TT motor to make sure that's not the issue. I learned to check simple stuff first when my old Bronco was running hot...replaced the water pump, thermostat, hoses and radiator...it turned out to be a bad temp gauge...


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## taffrail (Dec 23, 2018)

SomaliPirate said:


> Yep, switch is good, I checked that first. I'm getting some clicking at the solenoid but no juice. I think my next step is to run power directly to the TT motor to make sure that's not the issue. I learned to check simple stuff first when my old Bronco was running hot...replaced the water pump, thermostat, hoses and radiator...it turned out to be a bad temp gauge...


Yep. We really do over complicate things.


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

If the battery is not connected directly to the motor, check all connections in between, including battery switch, bus bars, and any other wire joins. Clean every connection until it's shiny and fasten tightly with a little dielectric grease. If the battery is connected directly to the motor, check the connections at both ends, clean, grease, reconnect.

Your problem is almost certainly a weak ground or connection as Boatbrains suggested.

P.S. Just because a connection is tight and looks good externally does not mean that it is good. Don't ask me how I know.


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## Marsh Pirate (Sep 15, 2016)

Be sure and check you voltage under load. You can have a bad wire and unloaded the voltage will be fine. As soon as you put it under a load the voltage will drop significantly.


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## SomaliPirate (Feb 5, 2016)

Marsh Pirate said:


> Be sure and check you voltage under load. You can have a bad wire and unloaded the voltage will be fine. As soon as you put it under a load the voltage will drop significantly.


Thanks! Didn't think of that one. I really need to call Young boats and see what they'll charge me for a complete rewire.


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## makin moves (Mar 20, 2010)

SomaliPirate said:


> I may have to. The flip flop didn't even work!


 I'm really surprised the technical tap didn't do the trick!


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## SomaliPirate (Feb 5, 2016)

Update: After diagnosing it as best as I could, it was the relay. Thanks to @EdK13 I was able to find an aftermarket relay for less than $60 versus over $150 for the Yamaha part. Got the relay in the mail, installed it and she works great. Here's that website for outboard electrical stuff if anybody is interested.

https://www.dbelectrical.com/


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