# IT WORKS ! You can Make it bigger. Here's how...



## Rediculous (May 5, 2012)

That's a cool looking little boat. I'm curious where this project goes...


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## morrisjoshua (Feb 27, 2013)

MY only reference if a few threads on CM about guys taking there makos to a Euro style transom for a few hours i actually toyed with the idea of just adding a offshore braket.. the concept should give me a equilivant of a tunnel (running the prop up a few inches) without the hole.. but being a mirco skiff i want to fish in the 6" not run through it. 

so i just deciede on a full addition. 

My procedure is 
make print, 
build frame. 
glass addition. 
flip. 
add stringers and new transom deck
fish 

im leaviong in the current worm wood tansom to keep the hull shape and that will give my fram something to bolt too.. i should also be able to keep the "factory" transom angle .. if iits sitting there to copy



Clean area for hull print. then bag









bagged.. NOW i was to cheap to go buy wax from FCI.. they get enough of my money.. so i taped a piece of plastic i use for bagging against the hull .. I figuerd A id get a better seal (i did) and B save the 20 bucks for mold wax.. 

WHAT GOT WAS wrinkles!! :'(

again being cheap.. i didnt want to reprint so i figured id just keep the wrinkles and putty the extension to fair it out.. thats gonna be a lot of sanding..


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

I'm interested in seeing how you will match the chine and side curves so it looks fluid. Hope it works out.

Until then, shouldn't the title be "I hope it works! It might get bigger?"......J/K


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## morrisjoshua (Feb 27, 2013)

so the bagging did turn out to be a total disaster.. the skin is quite flat..


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

Wrote that before seeing the last post.

Plastic doesn't work well, I've tried in the past and got wrinkles too. What would work great is clear packing tape! You will have the tiny groves where the tape overlaps but that's it. You know it won't shift.

Also I would built a jig or add a lot thicker glass to the mold or it will shift and flex and be a pain to get true IMO.


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## morrisjoshua (Feb 27, 2013)

so after having a long argument with myself - an argument which i won - i decided on a sacrificial frame over a built in.  I plan on removing this frame once flipped. down side is a dont get a primary bond to the stringers, up side is i will not have to build the transom upside down. 

I should be elected to congress i can have arguments with anyone about surreal solutions to self created problems then boast about the work i did..  :


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## morrisjoshua (Feb 27, 2013)

glass to frame.. tiny little nails with the heads cut off for easier removal.. It took my HOURS to do this.. removing the heads off the nails is easy.. hammering  (lightly) a nail without a head is IMPOSSIBLE

The wrinkles in the Skin are the extra Resin bagging brings to the surface.. not the Glass, a quick sanding should get them off easy..


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## morrisjoshua (Feb 27, 2013)

GRIND UNTIL YOU DIE.. or find glass.. WOW this hull had a Think coat of Resin. It took me hours to get to the mat.. i gave up on trying to get to the WR .. I know the internet experts are all going to post about poor bonds.. (then dont buy this hull )

I ground up 14" thats 4" per layer bond area 

Actually i each picture above you can see the slow progress.. I'd gind a hour or so .. then do quiet work after sunset.. next day.. grind .. day 4 grind.. hey look glass !!!


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## morrisjoshua (Feb 27, 2013)

ok took 1/2 day for lay up.. 

1808 layer 1.. 45/45 looking good!


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## morrisjoshua (Feb 27, 2013)

Aircraft carrier Ronald Regan: "

... TO contact 15 miles S. Please change course.. WE are the Aircraft Carrier Ronald Regan... Rodger.."  

CONTACT : 

...Neagative Ronald Regan suggest course Change immedeatly.. Rodger"

AirCraft Carrier Ronald Regan  : 

..Contact .. We are the US Aircraft carrier Ronald Regan we will not adjust course, federal law requires you to yeild...

CONTACT : 

.. the Cape Henry Lighthouse yeilds to the Aircraft carrier Ronald Regan.. but I Still suggest you alter your course.. thats your call" 


Moral: you may think you know what your doing.. but you may be wrong.. Remeber those little wrinkles.. well after 3 layers of 1808 (45 90 and 45) look what has amplified.. 

If i was anyone id buy stock in a fairing compound company.. im going to be usiung a lot in the next day or 2 











no so bad.. 











uo oh...










eject ghost rider .. EJECT...





:'( :'( :'( :'(


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## Rediculous (May 5, 2012)

Rutt-row shaggy...


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## morrisjoshua (Feb 27, 2013)

yea ..

Whats ironic is the mod is working out perfectly.. Got a great bond the frame held true.. the glass schedule fell in perfectly even got the resin to work in this weather.. 

all the thoughts put into the structure ... but i have a problem on Basic galss work 101.. start with flat surfaces. or learn to make love sanding (this is why i am a AMATUER) 


i started filler this AM in the cold.. realized it going to take until wed to set so i gave up (lost my one full day )

i have been here before .. you get 90% of the way with filler then use gel coat to get the last mile .. sand until you arms fall off. 

I wanted to use paint since i already have that, but i have done gel coat for this problem (not this bad)  it wont kill me to do it again.. ill make it flat ..


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## oysterbreath (Jan 13, 2009)

HA! When I first saw the tittle on your thread I thought that one of those spammers got through the microskiff anti-spammer gauntlet. Anyway, do you know the make and model of your hull. I really like it! Did you ever run it as-is before making your modifications? It's looking good so far. Your chosen method is different from how I would have approached it so that makes me even more interested to see how it comes out. Good luck and keep the pictures coming!



> I actaully picked the rounded Chine becuase of another Thread here on microskiff Rounded Chine vs Square.. the one guy who actually knew something on that thread had a nice CAD draw of a hull.. I wanted to find a skiff that mathced.. without cold planking.


 Which thread was that?


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## telltail (Mar 11, 2007)

From the pic with it flipped, kinda looks like a shorter Gladesmen (with rounded sides aft)...should be a fun little boat when done. Tight lines!


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## telltail (Mar 11, 2007)

> From the pic with it flipped, kinda looks like a shorter Gladesmen (with rounded sides)...should be a fun little boat when done. Tight lines!


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## morrisjoshua (Feb 27, 2013)

oysterbreath: 

rounded chine vs square link --> 


http://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1305770050


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## morrisjoshua (Feb 27, 2013)

it does look like a glades .. I AGREE.. but its 58" wide bottom (no flair so the beam is the same.. but that means WET !! rides.. I plan on adjusting that when I do a deck. 


. Ill try to take a better picture but the hull really does that Camien thing...

it looks like it Bows up in the middle and the Transom and the Bow are lower.. Its such a unique shape.. i like it.


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## morrisjoshua (Feb 27, 2013)

oh yea.,, first post .. this is my intro.. so hear goes. 

first boat OREGON. everything up there we make out of recycled budlight cans.. Learned to TIG.. had a few sleds. different mentality for Boats (alum v Glass ) but Shallow is still king but we run jet pumps. i welded lots of holes..  You tend to "feel" your way downstream.. up stream is easy.. downstream.. not so easy..

moved To fla.. bought a mako. learned to glass.. chasing dolphin is ..... expensive.. went with a friend redfishing.. OMG.. its like pheasent hunting in a boat.. 

Decided i must have microskiff. Cruisied HB and East Cape.. wow those are really $$$$.. found microskiff.. read a few build threads.. here i am. 

Bio;s 

39 
1 kid and wife
physics major
renter ( so i build under a carport  :-/) 
willing to make mistakes
obsessed with bowling
former professional paintball player
refuse to touch non-shimano reels or lefthanded reels (though i am left handed.. yea really wierd huh) 

HI IM JOSHUA ...


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## Rosco (Nov 6, 2010)

> oh yea.,, first post .. this is my intro.. so hear goes.
> 
> first boat OREGON. everything up there we make out of recycled budlight cans.. Learned to TIG.. had a few sleds. different mentality for Boats (alum v Glass ) but Shallow is still king but we run jet pumps. i welded lots of holes..  You tend to "feel" your way downstream.. up stream is easy.. downstream.. not so easy..
> 
> ...


Nice! Welcome aboard Joshua


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## oysterbreath (Jan 13, 2009)

> oysterbreath:
> 
> rounded chine vs square link -->
> 
> ...



lol, That was my thread. I'm the fella that did the CAD hull.  I was gonna build it but found the Osprey 18 and started building it instead. Oh and welcome aboard! So I see that you are left handed TOO! And a bowler. So I guess you've heard that your right handed bowling brethern think we lefties have an unfair advantage on the lane. Something about the wax on the left hand lane being fresher since their are fewer lefties! lol


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

> Something about the wax on the left hand lane being fresher since their are fewer lefties! lol


It's true! Not the wax but the oil, less action on the left side keeps more oil down and makes for more predictable hooks.

Oldred where were you chasing dolphin? Usually they are chasing us when we try to sneek up on the reds over here ;D.


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## oysterbreath (Jan 13, 2009)

> > Something about the wax on the left hand lane being fresher since their are fewer lefties! lol
> 
> 
> It's true! Not the wax but the oil, less action on the left side keeps more oil down and makes for more predictable hooks.


Read this in a jokingly manner as that is my intent please. 

Well, well Mr righty. You'll get as much sympothy for being a right handed bowler as I would get trying to be a 5'-6" center on a basketball team! You don't see the NBA providing stools for short centers durring jump ball. ;-) Take your grimmy right lane oil like a man! lol


Anyway, back to the skiff modification. What's the angle of your transom?


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## morrisjoshua (Feb 27, 2013)

fairing putty smered.. i went heavier than i think i needed to but.. with those wrinkles im betting its goning to need a little extra


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## morrisjoshua (Feb 27, 2013)

[/quote]


Anyway, back to the skiff modification. What's the angle of your transom?[/quote]


I dunno i did'nt measure it.. Its 18" tall and has a 1/4" inchish slope .. 

hey oyster can I add lifting strakes to the bottom. I dont want to lose the rounded chines silence but after doing some reading i am concerned about the time to plane on that rounded chine hull. I was wondering if i could add lifting strakes that stay below the water line and if those would give me quicker to plane


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

You can build a lifting pad on the bottom. Think of it as a small ramp/wedge at the rear of the hull. 6" wide, 6-7" long and 3/8" high (one on each side). Maybe a little taller so you can test it and sand off if it is too much. Very much like a built in trim tab or a hook that some builders used to build into their skiffs.


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## disporks (Jan 19, 2011)

Looks like fun...have fun sanding!


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

I think you'd be better off sanding down those wrinkles first then trying to fair it. Otherwise you may end up with an odd hump, or a thick layer of filler that is structurally weak and prone to fracture.

I think I would skip the lifting strakes IMO. I tried some on my skiff and really don't think they do much. I'd go with some tabs instead, you can fab them up fairly easily. If memory serves I think I set my transom angle at 14.5 degrees.


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## morrisjoshua (Feb 27, 2013)

Filer overglass is still stronger than compromised ( ground down glass) I am not gong to cut the glass. 

The humps are noticeable on the camera but not so noticeable to the naked eye. Lighting and camera resolution is making them look much more pronounced than they really are .. I'm just pickey .. All hand laid up jobs need faring.. I'm just whining a little about this ( I hate sanding)


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## SilentHunter (Jun 14, 2010)

> Filer overglass is still stronger than compromised ( ground down glass) I am not gong to cut the glass.
> 
> The humps are noticeable on the camera but not so noticeable to the naked eye. Lighting and camera resolution is making them look much more pronounced than they really are .. I'm just pickey .. All hand laid up jobs need faring.. I'm just whining a little about this ( I hate sanding)



that depends on whos doing the laying of the fibers [smiley=titanic.gif]


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## oysterbreath (Jan 13, 2009)

> I think you'd be better off sanding down those wrinkles first then trying to fair it. Otherwise you may end up with an odd hump, or a thick layer of filler that is structurally weak and prone to fracture.
> 
> I think I would skip the lifting strakes IMO. I tried some on my skiff and really don't think they do much. I'd go with some tabs instead, you can fab them up fairly easily. If memory serves I think I set my transom angle at 14.5 degrees.



I think Fire is right on both acounts. I wouldn't add the lifting strakes either. It would be a much better idea to add manual trim tabs. that way you can dial them in. Truth be told, all the calculations in the world can't beat trial-n-error. Numbers can be made to do anything depending on how bad or great you are with them. Sea trails tell the truth and nothing but the truth. I think that's why you see so many experienced and pro builders adding and removing things from their prototype hulls befor they do a final build and configuration.

As for your fairing. Fire was right but done is done. I think you are going to end up sanding about 90% of that compound off. You will still need to fill your lows after that. One mistake I made was not doing a guide coat. I didn't see just how useful it was till I did my final painting. Only then did I see that my fairing job was less than I was capable of. Don't skip the guide coat unless you just wanna get-r-done and fish!


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

> Filer overglass is still stronger than compromised ( ground down glass) I am not gong to cut the glass.


Normally I would agree, but you already have compromise in the continuity of the glass because of the wrinkles. Smoothly laid glass is strong glass. If I were you, and I know you don't want to sand but this will work out better later on, I would sand the wrinkles smooth, then add another layer of light glass over the whole area and maybe 8-12" onto the original hull. Then do any additional reinforcing on the interior. This will make the hull bottom much more fair, make it stronger, and keep the filler buildup to a minimum. 
Just my $0.02


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## SilentHunter (Jun 14, 2010)

> > Filer overglass is still stronger than compromised ( ground down glass) I am not gong to cut the glass.
> 
> 
> Normally I would agree, but you already have compromise in the continuity of the glass because of the wrinkles. Smoothly laid glass is strong glass. If I were you, and I know you don't want to sand but this will work out better later on, I would sand the wrinkles smooth, then add another layer of light glass over the whole area and maybe 8-12" onto the original hull. Then do any additional reinforcing on the interior. This will make the hull bottom much more fair, make it stronger, and keep the filler buildup to a minimum.
> Just my $0.02



i agree 100% with above comment. thoes wrinkles wil be prone to weakspots. That is a ton of filler to fair. You might get lucky... but if you dont it will be alot of work to fix... youve gone this far IMHO do it right once so you dont have to do it again.

baby powder your body or wear a bunny suit and get your grind on. 80 grit sanding disc will cut it down fast.


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## morrisjoshua (Feb 27, 2013)

Those wrinkles have transmitted through 3 layers of 1808 and a 1 and 3/4 layer of Matt . To grind them flat would be cutting back all the glass , id be better off cutting it off and starting over: I'm not doing that. 

Like I said there not that bad , I sanded down one side today and putty'd the opposite side. I'll take filler over long strips of cut glass.


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## paint it black (Nov 3, 2007)

if I were you, I'd rip that all off and start over. Get some PVA and spray the hull, lay up a few layers of glass, then glass in some supports made of 2x4's. Then you have a mold to build an almost perfectly smooth part that'll fit right onto your hull, and be a perfect extension with minimal finish work, other than on the joint itself, and it'll be way stronger.


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## jms (Apr 21, 2011)

> if I were you, I'd rip that all off and start over. Get some PVA and spray the hull, lay up a few layers of glass, then glass in some supports made of 2x4's. Then you have a mold to build an almost perfectly smooth part that'll fit right onto your hull, and be a perfect extension with minimal finish work, other than on the joint itself, and it'll be way stronger.



that's very good advice


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

> Those wrinkles have transmitted through 3 layers of 1808 and a 1 and 3/4 layer of Matt . To grind them flat would be cutting back all the glass , id be better off cutting it off and starting over: I'm not doing that.
> 
> Like I said there not that bad , I sanded down one side today and putty'd the opposite side. I'll take filler over long strips of cut glass.


If they transmitted over all 4 layers then you have 4 layers that are somewhat compromised. So you have a lot of weight for not a lot of strength. Filler might be easier, but it is weaker and if you build it up it will crack over time, where glass strips will be strong and stable, and if you know what you are doing will actually be less work in the end.

Mistakes suck, but we all make them, and you are at the perfect point to fix them. Paint it Black's advise is probably the best course of action at this point. There isn't much point in doing all this work and spending all this money for something that could fail soon after you are finished.


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## JBMitziSkiff (Nov 2, 2012)

> Rutt-row shaggy...


X2
Please let everyone know where you go to fish once this project is complete. I had a buddy when we were younger that tried the same thing. 
nice sunny day took it out with his dog one boat wake to many and kerpluk crack taking on water he floated for about 1 hr with his dog and cooler before someone picked him up. Funny thing is it looked pretty good just floating..


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## morrisjoshua (Feb 27, 2013)

Vac bagged outside skin for nose job. Previous owner felt there way around a bunch I guess


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## morrisjoshua (Feb 27, 2013)

Paint it black .. I did make a mold off the hull with PVA.. ?? It does fit perfectly , the wrinkles are for the 2mil plastic I used for vac bagging. There tiny. 

But here is my plan y'all can tell me why I should rip it off ...

I built a 42" mold skin off the hull (36" for extension 4" for bonding , plus extra) 
Ground a 13" bonding area around the hull and a 24" bonding area down the keel. 
First layer laid on 4" of bonding area
2nd layer extends 4" further up hull
3rd layer extends 4" further 
Mat layer extends 1" further 
Keep layer extends further and 5 inches on either side of keel. 

The 1808 was also run 45 , 90 and 45.

I've righted the hull and plan on running 2 more layers of 1808 90 and 45  inside 6" into hull over divin h80 .25 core (transom is soon to be removed)

  I'm then going to run new stringers on entire length of hull with knees at new transom

I plan on installing a new sub floor on entire length.

My rear deck wil start bonded on the trasom box's to the new transom. 

Somat this point I'm bonded 4 overlaps outside for 13" along with the keel that stretches 24" in bonding area. 

I'll have 3 overlaps into the orginial hull inside. With new stringers entire length , with sub flor, and top deck both overlap. 

You still think is should rip it off now , because of some wrinkles I got in the vac bagging ? 

Yikes .. I really don't understand fiberglass .. Maybe I should quit now .. And just buy like the rest of "build-ups" here .. 

Joshua


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## morrisjoshua (Feb 27, 2013)

Under frame I was using to support mold. I'm pulling out that transom and running glass and stringers . Those box's will also be the bonding pad for he rear deck .. That's unless paint it black doesn't tell me to rip it all off ...


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## morrisjoshua (Feb 27, 2013)

The last 6" are the transom and polling platform post foundations. I left the last 6" single skin so I can wrap around for transom glass. I know it's 9 layers for offshore brackets hiding twins .. I figure my little 20 coud use 3. Either side with a 8lb foam core pour. 

Note the dry glass .. That's cutback for deck overlap.l didn't bother resin since its getting cut off .. Anyway ( chill Winston)


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## morrisjoshua (Feb 27, 2013)

Trying to visualize 

Again you can see the sanding line .. The rest is cut off and the deck glass will extend down .. That wavy glass is dry glass


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## morrisjoshua (Feb 27, 2013)

Good side profile.. You can see the fairing came out nice.. Too bad it has to be ripped off and started over . Looks like it would of been nice ;D


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## Mike1974 (Feb 22, 2013)

If you do end up starting over on this use epoxy, not poly resin.  The bond will be strong and you won't hav eto worry about the rear end of your boat falling off.  The part that you adding on i sthe part of theboat that take the most stress so you really want to do it right for safety sake.  I have no clue what poly resin costs but you can buy a good epoxy resin for about $55 a gallon online.  You can also get some great boat building and rebuilding advice at bateau2.com they also have great prices on all the stuff you need.  I like your idea and it might work, if you do it right it will last for years. And that is a sweet little poling platform!! Where did you get it?


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## morrisjoshua (Feb 27, 2013)

The boat was built with poly , poly bonds to poly better than epoxy bonds to poly. Fci recommended poly.. Even east cape doesn't use epoxy


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## morrisjoshua (Feb 27, 2013)

Carpet removed


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## morrisjoshua (Feb 27, 2013)

Removing sub floor .. Trying to locate stringers .. In this boat they were laid at angles


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## morrisjoshua (Feb 27, 2013)

Sub floor gone. Notice that hole in the center stringer .. What ever did that was dramatic.. The wood inside is mush..


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## sfsurfr (Mar 16, 2009)

Haters gonna hate!!!!

Project looks like it's coming along great to me. Should be a kickass skiff when you get done. 

epoxy or poly? Builders choice. I like epoxy b/c it doesn't have the fumes but have built plenty of shit out of poly that is still floating. When you run stringers up her she will be solid as a rock.


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## morrisjoshua (Feb 27, 2013)

I agree everyone's a expert behind a screen and 4 beers in.. 

I know I'm ignorant but, I'm asking professionals at least


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## morrisjoshua (Feb 27, 2013)

Don't look at me I'm naked


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## morrisjoshua (Feb 27, 2013)




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## morrisjoshua (Feb 27, 2013)

I'm going to bring the stringers up to the point .. The transom goes out tomorrow. Though ill be leaving the top to keep the hull shaped 

J


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

> I agree everyone's a expert behind a screen and 4 beers in..
> 
> I know I'm ignorant but, I'm asking professionals at least


Careful what you say bro. You received basically the same advice from a professional boat repair guy, a professional auto painter who also knows a ton about body work and a guy who is currently building his third boat in his garage. That is a lot of real world experience.

If you choose to ignore them, that is absolutely your right and I wish you the best, but blowing those guys off as armchair quarterbacks is serious bad karma.

Nate


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## jms (Apr 21, 2011)

> > I agree everyone's a expert behind a screen and 4 beers in..
> >
> > I know I'm ignorant but, I'm asking professionals at least
> 
> ...



i hear that...


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

> i hear that...


What the heck do you know??? You have a 1950 dinosaur towmotor [smiley=1-laugh.gif]


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## SilentHunter (Jun 14, 2010)

Were not all keyboard commando's... some of us have built a few boats... some more than others.


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## jms (Apr 21, 2011)

> > i hear that...
> 
> 
> What the heck do you know???  You have a 1950 dinosaur towmotor   [smiley=1-laugh.gif]



now that's funny !!!  

not to side track here - but...

i had a problem with the starter - the armeture broke - the drive flew off the broken shaft - not good 

searched the starter mfg - starter was no longer in production :-/ just couldn't put the old dog down...

we saved the old beast...


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## cutrunner (Jun 8, 2010)

Sure beats a payment on a new one! They are not cheap, no sir


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Kreepa, I have two words for you-
SMITH SONIAN :'(


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## morrisjoshua (Feb 27, 2013)

Stripped . Going with a balsa core wrapped up to the trim. Then glass . I have 12" of bonding area. Then stringers back to the extension.


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## morrisjoshua (Feb 27, 2013)

Gluing core 2 layers 3/8" AC , I'll install the transom core prior to the extension core so they butt up clean


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## morrisjoshua (Feb 27, 2013)

[/quote]

Careful what you say bro.  You received basically the same advice from a professional boat repair guy, a professional auto painter who also knows a ton about body work and a guy who is currently building his third boat in his garage.  That is a lot of real world experience.

If you choose to ignore them, that is absolutely your right and I wish you the best, but blowing those guys off as armchair quarterbacks is serious bad karma.

Nate[/quote]

Nate the advice was to make a mold , which I HAD ALREADY DONE, and join it to the hull, which I already did. 

Just looking at pictures and making half baked conclusions then typing away on how poor of a job I was doing only served to make one of us look foolish. - since the ironY was I have all along been constructing this as they "instructed" 

My response was basically " hey I'm Doing it they way you say I should, what the problem here "

My only real problem is I'm using a professional camera for pictures, so the resolution makes one think there are problems that's don't really exsist. The "wrinkles" could only be felt not seen, but in that one picture it looks likes a wrinkled shirt..it's as smooth as the rest of the hull. 

Yet if my effort offends so many, the mods can pull down my thread and I'll delete. I just thought It was a interesting project.


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## morrisjoshua (Feb 27, 2013)

> Stripped . Going with a balsa core wrapped up to the trim. Then glass . I have 12" of bonding area. Then stringers back to the extension.


Nate here is a perfect example. That bonding area is perfectly smooth and flat , I ground it and sanded it for 5 hours. Yet the camera picked up the resin coloration and it looks like a bumpy mess. So ?? Am I supposed of do..


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## morrisjoshua (Feb 27, 2013)

Transom took forever to get the angle correc pt and perfectly square. The knees slots for the stringer tie in are Pre cut


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## morrisjoshua (Feb 27, 2013)

Core (balsa) in place .. Thought I had enough but right side was about 4" short had to cut in a piece. I'd of liked to have both sides one sheet. I'm sure I'll hear I need to rip it off now  ;D

I plan on cutting it back 1 inch for the keel. After the PB boat show I want to try 8lb foam pour for stringers. I need to trim down the sides- get rid of the slag glass. I want to have a different shape, closer to a wooldridge Alaskan , with a kinfe shaped hull. Might be interesting


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## noeettica (Sep 23, 2007)

As a lifelong enthusiast of photography please PM me details of your equipment .... (use the confidential Tab


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## Homemadexj (Nov 3, 2011)

Pretty Cool project. I've Wondered About Doing Something Like That Before Or Maybe Adding On Sponsons. I Think When You Have It All Tied Together With New Stringers And Everything It will Be Solid.


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## morrisjoshua (Feb 27, 2013)

> As a lifelong enthusiast of photography please PM me details of your equipment .... (use the confidential Tab


I have a d800 d-slr it's a 36 mp camera., I bought it off a friends who is a professional, it's too clear in my opinion. I don't know how to tone down the contrast.


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## JBMitziSkiff (Nov 2, 2012)

What happened to this project??


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## Shalla Wata Rider (Aug 14, 2013)

> What happened to this project??


DIDO!!!


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

After some of us made suggestions on how to improve his work and this for sale thread, I don't think he is a member anymore.

http://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1371919337/10#10


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

It seemed to me that the comments on this thread were actually trying to be constructive. Even Kreeper didn't get aggressive. I guess ORS disagreed judging by how his tone changed over time. I am surprised he bailed though. I expected him to float the boat just to gloat that it didn't break in half while under power. 

The catty comments on his "for sale" thread were out of line.

Nate


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## Net 30 (Mar 24, 2012)

M.I.A.


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## HaMm3r (Dec 11, 2006)

Well, he does have one final picture on his photobucket that was never posted. Too bad, as I'm sure many of us wanted to see the finished project.

While only a glimpse, you can see a rough, unfinished transom and deck. Apparently he added a jack plate and a Merc 20 as well. It's definitely his driveway with those same pavers.


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## Recidivists (May 9, 2011)

I wonder if the Merc is in the drink?


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## 'Nano-Skiff' (Aug 27, 2012)

You gotta have thick skin to be a part of a forum nowadays. It's too bad. I just read every post of this for the first time right now apparently for nothing. Kinda selfish on his part to waste my time


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## JBMitziSkiff (Nov 2, 2012)

Jack plate on an extended DIY job....... = To much leverage and definitely a pry bar to take it off the back. Crazy talk!


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

By the looks of it - looks pretty easy to tilt the motor up as well.


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