# Uncle J's 1860 flat bottom



## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

3/16" bottom, 1/8" sides and decks, side console 12" square. 1/8" floor, 2"x1 1/2" battens longitude. Pipe bow bumper with adjustable flounder lamp internal. 18" wide pad on bottom. Vance 4" jack plate. Adding under gunnel rod racks. No snag push pole holders.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

What motor are you hanging on it? 70 2 stroke Yamaha?


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Not the 2 stroke but the 4 stroke f70, as I was unable to secure a nice 2 stroke.


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## Guest (Sep 11, 2018)

She’s gonna be a cool rig!


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> Not the 2 stroke but the 4 stroke f70, as I was unable to secure a nice 2 stroke.


I have a spare 2 stroke but a little too far away.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Too far, I picked up trailer n motor, two separate trips...


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Boat finished on Friday to pick up, now the real work starts. Now my first try with a 4 stroke motors.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

I am guessing you are leaving it uncoated?


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> I am guessing you are leaving it uncoated?


Debating whether to paint deck cap n paint hull, any suggestions?


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> Debating whether to paint r sea deck cap n paint hull, any suggestions?


I would Tuffcoat everything from the rubrails in and leave the sides and bottom raw. If you paint the hull use whatever Sabine (bslittle) uses on their hulls.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> I would Tuffcoat everything from the rubrails in and leave the sides and bottom raw. If you paint the hull use whatever Sabine (bslittle) uses on their hulls.


Please elaborate as I am not familiar with tuff coat?


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> Please elaborate as I am not familiar with tuff coat?


I sprayed my last boat with it and it’s still looking good 5 years later. Check out the website. I highly recommend it for it’s ease of application and durability. I did my deck and cockpit in light grey. 
https://tuffcoatmarine.com/


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

View attachment 41208
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The red is their aluminum primer. I shot two coats of primer and 8 coats of Tuffcoat with a sheetrock hopper/gun from Harbor Freight. Very cost effective and relatively easy. It was about $80 per gallon and my 8 coats took 4 gallons. I could have done 4 coats but I’m an overachiever...


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> View attachment 41206
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> ...


Wow, who built your boat, sorta similar...
Is that the coarse not the fine texture?


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> Wow, who built your boat, sorta similar...
> Is that the coarse not the fine texture?


I “built” it. It was a 1976 Polar Kraft Mod v and I put $25k in it to build a sweet skiff. My build is on tinboats.net

It was the regular TuffCoat in Light Grey


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Nearly completed, pickup Friday.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Is the recess in the nose for a light bar?


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Is the recess in the nose for a light bar?


Yes the lights will be mounted there. Adding sharkeye lights today.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)




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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)




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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)




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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)




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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Looking good man! Looks like a tank!


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Looking good man! Looks like a tank!


Flat with skiff cap, flounder light built in, need to make templates for under gunnels rod racks. Light grey cap n floor, medium gray sides...


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> Flat with skiff cap, flounder light built in, need to make templates for under gunnels rod racks. Light grey cap n floor, medium gray sides...


Did you decide on a coating or just color? 
The under gunnel rod racks on the Conchfish thread are sweet. I bet he would share his design and you could incorporate them in your build.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Did you decide on a coating or just color?
> The under gunnel rod racks on the Conchfish thread are sweet. I bet he would share his design and you could incorporate them in your build.


Thanks for heads up. Thinking tuff coat....


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> Thanks for heads up. Thinking tuff coat....


If you want a coating that’s more like bedliner but made for aluminum you may look into having it professionally LineX’d. It’s great too but more expensive.


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## Guest (Sep 15, 2018)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> If you want a coating that’s more like bedliner but made for aluminum you may look into having it professionally LineX’d. It’s great too but more expensive.


But worth every penny on a build like this! Cry once scenario!


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## Guest (Sep 16, 2018)

This rig is gonna be awesome! Would like somethin like it for giggin mullet and flounder down here!


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)




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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

7" gps with sun shield, mounted soon


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## Net 30 (Mar 24, 2012)

Like what you did with the small side console...perfect set up. My next build I'm doing the same thing.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Net 30 said:


> Like what you did with the small side console...perfect set up. My next build I'm doing the same thing.


Boat is very affordable vs composite glass.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> View attachment 41206
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> ...


Did paint help with the aluminum heating up? As unpainted in the summer is toooo hot to touch.


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## EdK13 (Oct 3, 2013)

Sweet. Nice build. Solid.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Jack plate installed, HD hatch hinges, boat without big center console has sooo much interior space that it seems larger than 18 x 6.5. Still rigging, transducer mount, control box mount, GPS console modification. Added 2 nd battery charger wiring, added trolling motor wiring to 2nd battery. Tomorrow morning to welding shop add transducer mount, GPS bracket extension modification, control box mount.
Had the welding completed today locally. Added the 3 missing items above, so tomorrow will be installing GPS, transducer, control box.


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

Sick dude!


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> View attachment 41206
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Smack, what did u use to prep the aluminum with before priming?


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> Smack, what did u use to prep the aluminum with before priming?


Acetone


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Acetone


Thanks
Maybe re thinking DIY job.!


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> Thanks
> Maybe re thinking DIY job.!


It’s not hard. Go to Harbor Freight and pick up the cheapo sheetrock texture hopper, blue masking tape and a paint mixer paddle that chucks in your power drill and get after it.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

paint shops sell aluminum conditioner. It turns some aluminum a goldish color. You put it on and wash it off before painting. Acetone is nasty stuff.

https://welleauto.com/index.php/onl...tioner-Quart-PPG/p/50477618/category=13019529


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

devrep said:


> paint shops sell aluminum conditioner. It turns some aluminum a goldish color. You put it on and wash it off before painting. Acetone is nasty stuff.
> 
> https://welleauto.com/index.php/onl...tioner-Quart-PPG/p/50477618/category=13019529


That’s pretty much just alodine I believe. 
I used acetone and my Tuffcoat is still stuck over 4 years later. My old skiff is running the Louisiana marsh to this day. I call and check on her now and then.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

the aluminum conditioner is mostly a mild acid. phosphoric I think.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> If you want a coating that’s more like bedliner but made for aluminum you may look into having it professionally LineX’d. It’s great too but more expensive.


Getting a quote today....


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## Guest (Sep 25, 2018)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> Getting a quote today....


Brace yourself, ain’t gonna be cheap... but is worth it!


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Going to the drug store for prep h!


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## Guest (Sep 25, 2018)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> Going to the drug store for prep h!


Might wanna grab a tube of astroglide also lol! Again, it is worth the price provided your dealer is reputable and does proper prep before applying product.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Mods n revisions at welding shop done...


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

That all looks great! It’s good to see the transducer mounting channel welded on like that versus drilling through the transom. Great looking work!


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

The boat builder shaped it from 1/8" plate. Nice workmanship. Still waiting on steering and rod racks. Have some wire tie in's to make for battery charger and trolling motor. Getting closer, still a long way to complete.

Uncle J, the boat builder also has boat kits similar sized, fitted, shaped, tacked together, finish the welding to complete boat. $3000/$3800 depending on options.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Line x quote $300.00 light grey


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> Line x quote $300.00 light grey


That is either a crazy misquote or you found the deal of the century...
Everyone I’ve talked to paid at least a grand to have just the interior of their aluminum hull coated with LineX.


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## Guest (Sep 25, 2018)

If they will shoot it for $300, I’d make sure they are using linex and not something else lol! If that’s right, I’d get the boat to them yesterday before they realize it!


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Boatbrains said:


> If they will shoot it for $300, I’d make sure they are using linex and not something else lol! If that’s right, I’d get the boat to them yesterday before they realize it!


I could see $300 for some bedliner but not LineX


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## Guest (Sep 25, 2018)

Smack, even the diy urethane/epoxy Linerxtreme material I use on a lot of my projects cost that! For that kind of money, I would not be doing the diy stuff like I do! Don’t get me wrong, linerxtreme is a great and durable product, but materials would cost more than his quote of linex installed!


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Boatbrains said:


> Smack, even the diy urethane/epoxy Linerxtreme material I use on a lot of my projects cost that! For that kind of money, I would not be doing the diy stuff like I do! Don’t get me wrong, linerxtreme is a great and durable product, but materials would cost more than his quote of linex installed!


I concur


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> Line x quote $300.00 light grey


Wow I feel like judge kavanaw, all the nay sayers. Pal buddy's deal has dealers vehicles done for many years here.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> Wow I feel like judge kavanaw, all the nay sayers. Pal buddy's deal has dealers vehicles done for many years here.


I wasn’t being rude, just skeptical of a $300 quote to LineX the interior of your boat. I know of 4 people with aluminum hulls that paid at least $1200 to have everything inside the hull sprayed. Not regular bedliner, actual LineX. If you can get yours done for $300 you better jump on it!


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## Guest (Sep 25, 2018)

No rudeness or naysayin here either, I also just know what the job usually goes for! That quote is awesome, jump on it!


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> I wasn’t being rude, just skeptical of a $300 quote to LineX the interior of your boat. I know of 4 people with aluminum hulls that paid at least $1200 to have everything inside the hull sprayed. Not regular bedliner, actual LineX. If you can get yours done for $300 you better jump on it!


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> I wasn’t being rude, just skeptical of a $300 quote to LineX the interior of your boat. I know of 4 people with aluminum hulls that paid at least $1200 to have everything inside the hull sprayed. Not regular bedliner, actual LineX. If you can get yours done for $300 you better jump on it!


Cap n floor only about 100 square ft total. Details this week. Have an appointment with line x guy for Wed to apply coating.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)




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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Latest additions

Just called Lowrance about the power cord length being extremely short, basicly told me to go to local hardware buy connections n wire n DIY. Real nice, new elite 7 ti model, guess was expecting it to be complete like the 5 I just sold.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

What a heavy sob, my first 4 stroke Yamaha.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

I've had 2 Lowrance HDS's and now an elite TI and had to extend the power cables on all of them. Kinda stupid to make a cable that won't reach the console or grab bar on a 16 ft boat.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Finally put the engine on, steering, steering cable, tachometer, water pressure gauge, have to finish the wiring now. Rigging sucks!!


No Bait / Lures Only said:


> View attachment 43062





devrep said:


> I've had 2 Lowrance HDI's and now an elite TI and had to extend the power cables on all of them. Kinda stupid to make a cable that won't reach the console or grab bar on a 16 ft boat.


For the prices that they charge, it seems like u might get a finished product vs another project to do.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

So it appears the elite Ti model took the place of the HDS and the HDS model became solid gold. At least that's how they're priced now.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Boatbrains said:


> Smack, even the diy urethane/epoxy Linerxtreme material I use on a lot of my projects cost that! For that kind of money, I would not be doing the diy stuff like I do! Don’t get me wrong, linerxtreme is a great and durable product, but materials would cost more than his quote of linex installed!


What is used to prep surface before line x application?


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## Guest (Sep 29, 2018)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> What is used to prep surface before line x application?


I am really not sure about prep for linex as I’ve never done any polyurea type hot coatings. I am only versed in the epoxy/polyurethane and straight polyurethane or straight epoxy products. For all listed above an epoxy primer on aluminum is reccomended and or required by some manufacturers.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

My custom made rod racks from my template to shallow water solutions, perfect fit first try....
All wiring routed, 2 bus bars, ordered start battery for tomorrow. Who knows maybe a test ride n see if it's ok. Think maybe a couple of folding cleats, the coating contractor bumped me today for a bigger job.
As all can see this is a fishing machine and not a trailer queen, extremely basic and no frills. Cap is similar to the glades x I had. I originally asked Harry to build this one off in composite, we never made the deal n so this is an aluminum version.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

A couple photos of boat nearly completed, issues with the tachometer. Everything else worked perfectly. Motor cranked as key was touched, GPS powered up n loaded maps. Bilge pump, flounder lights, running lights worked.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

My rod racks situation of attachment to aluminum is solved, I fabricated a tiny frame of 1/2" channel that weld to sides and then rod bases slip into frames.


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## Shadowcast16 (Mar 5, 2017)

That is a beautiful, functional fishing machine right there! Congrats. I am leaning toward an aluminum skiff now.


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## Guest (Oct 6, 2018)

Shadowcast16 said:


> That is a beautiful, functional fishing machine right there! Congrats. I am leaning toward an aluminum skiff now.


#Me too! Not really, but she is a beautiful and functional looking gal!


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Shadowcast16 said:


> That is a beautiful, functional fishing machine right there! Congrats. I am leaning toward an aluminum skiff now.


The builder will take your design and fabricate it in plate. At a very fair price vs a composite one off, he must be building per customer requirements as he had 70 boats in build list. Capable of flats skiff style hulls.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

New rod racks installed







View attachment 45008


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## Guest (Oct 13, 2018)

Very nice!


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Add shock cords to rod racks and add quick disconnect connection to trolling motor feed wiring. They are killing reds now, gotta finish.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

You getting any coating done or leaving it raw?


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

I got tired of dealing with line x dealers bs and so 2 coats primer 1 top coat. Light grey cap n floor, medium grey sides. Waiting on check for trolling motor n battery n done....


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Last photos show the grey paint


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

View attachment 45324


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

rod racks installed


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

View attachment 45330
View attachment 45330
rod racks installed


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> View attachment 45330
> rod racks installed


Just a suggestion, zip tie that fuel line or wire to those rings to keep them from bouncing and chafing in the future. 
Rod racks look great!


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Just a suggestion, zip tie that fuel line or wire to those rings to keep them from bouncing and chafing in the future.
> Rod racks look great!


Might add larger size hose chafing segments on fuel line.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> Might add larger size hose chafing segments on fuel line.


I’m OCD about that kind of thing because I’m sure you’ve seen wire and hose chafing on vehicles and boats before. It’s not pretty!


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Just weighed the boat motor trailer, 2000# total with 7 gal gas n battery. Hull Weight minus trailer motor n rigging is 950# +/-, 100 # heavier than expected.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

That’s about right, that sucker is a tank! When are you going to run it?


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> That’s about right, that sucker is a tank! When are you going to run it?


Waiting on remainder of components to complete it. Trolling motor, battery, anchor, couple of cleats, anchor rope, throwable cushion.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> Waiting on remainder of components to complete it. Trolling motor, battery, anchor, couple of cleats, anchor rope, throwable cushion.


You don’t need any of that to go fish! Haha


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> You don’t need any of that to go fish! Haha


You are correct, but am toooo detail oriented to not complete my rigging, got real issues...the reds r climbing the bank here.
I don't even have a current fishing license yet, don't wanna get busted.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Adding a few black plastic cleats under the gunnels n bulkheads drill n tap for screws, out of way for casting. Ordered motor guide r3 55 50" hand control trolling motor for bow mount. Got anchor assembly now. Getting closer... Last item is battery for trolling motor..


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Added under deck n gunnel cleats for no snag issues...
View attachment 46580
View attachment 46580
]


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Added under deck n gunnel cleats for no snag issues...


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

2 cleats under bow 1 on passenger side under gunnel


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Looks good!


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Anchor with bow cleats, stake out pole tie off under gunnel cleat, only items left are trolling motor n battery.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Got to launch n bairly run the boat, got up quickly n ran up to 4600 before having to shut down. Area I launched the water was down n short. Run again tomorrow n finish test for prop n tabs. Motor does not idle n so go see mechanic. Very stable hull, impressive, dry launched. Motor after starting, wouldn't return to 800 rpm, staying 1200+ to 2000 , can manually adjust w/o cowling to 800?


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Did you let it warm up? It should idle where it needs to on it’s own.


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## Guest (Oct 23, 2018)

Pop the cowling, does your throttle cable have and preload? In other words, is the cable stopping it from returning all the way to idle? If so, adjust cable end so it preloads to idle. It only takes a couple turns one way or the other to cause this.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Ran again today, throttle out of adjustment 1/4". Then ran the boat, could only run up to 4600 rpm @ 33 GPS mph as porpoising took over. Torque outa control to right, tab straight n not adjusted. Next back to welder for trim tabs n transducer spray guard. I like engine but need to have It run without porpoise so can trim n raise for prop pitch.


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## kschaumburg (Feb 22, 2013)

how are you set up for dry launch. I have a very similar boat from sportsman fab. I have a 60 merc, I get 38 max


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## kschaumburg (Feb 22, 2013)

also, if you are going to put a troller, put the batteries up front and see if it takes the porpoising out


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Well waiting on trolling motor delivery now, and pickup battery as well. I will have the welder add fixed tabs n transducer splash guard n trolling motor mount plate on bow. Nearly done, working on it before I start fishing. I am nearly 2000 rpm low for 33gps speed now w/o trim r raise engine, as can't open the throttle cause of porpoise.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

kschaumburg said:


> how are you set up for dry launch. I have a very similar boat from sportsman fab. I have a 60 merc, I get 38 max


Dry launch trailer from owens n sons


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

I wouldn’t want to be running with the tabs down all the time to counter porpoising. As stated in an earlier post, I recommend playing with weight distribution first by getting the batteries, trolling motor and whatever else you may want in the bow hatch that will be there permanently. Trim tabs are great but they are not primarily a Band-Aid for porpoising issues. Tabs help adjust the ride of the hull while quartering waves to keep you dry, for jumping on plane faster, for running in following seas, countering a heavier passenger that makes the boat lean etc. by adjusting the attitude of the boat. I run my tabs down just a little so I can trim out past level and hit top speed but my hull can run WOT without porpoising with no tabs at all, I just can’t hit 33 mph without them.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Right now I am missing the trolling motor n size 31 battery n 5 gallons gas n my 50 quart too cool tackle box. For a total of 170# light in d bow, maybe that weight will allow the hull to stop the from porpoising. And no passengers as well. Still need a fix for transducer spray? Adding tabs without any down angle would help?


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## GitchaPull (Oct 22, 2018)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> Right now I am missing the trolling motor n size 31 battery n 5 gallons gas n my 50 quart too cool tackle box. For a total of 170# light in d bow, maybe that weight will allow the hull to stop the from porpoising. And no passengers as well. Still need a fix for transducer spray? Adding tabs without any down angle would help?


Can you raise the ducer? Do you need it to read bottom while running?


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## LowHydrogen (Dec 31, 2015)

Man that's a sweet sled, I know you posted some already but this thread needs more pictures.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

GitchaPull said:


> Can you raise the ducer? Do you need it to read bottom while running?


Adjusted it


LowHydrogen said:


> Man that's a sweet sled, I know you posted some already but this thread needs more pictures.


Ran boat again after adding size 31 battery, 40# box, 5 gallon bucket water, cinder block, 5 gallon gas can. Raised engine 1", adjusted torque tab, motor would almost reach 5000 @ 34 GPS before porpoise starting, still couldn't trim it out. So I will add tabs to transom Friday


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Hope adding tabs will solve issues so I can trim it out n see what prop is needed. Boat super stable n gets up quickly, just get past porpoise issues...also need a torque tab added to skeg n stop more torque... Marine Tex fix...


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## GitchaPull (Oct 22, 2018)

https://bobsmachine.com/product-category/true-tracker-stabilizer-plates-2/

This helped my boat Lowe with some of the porpoising. I still needed to bend the welded on tabs down some, but it definitely helped. Better out of the hole too


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

How bad was the porpoising before u added the Bob's plate?


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## GitchaPull (Oct 22, 2018)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> How bad was the porpoising before u added the Bob's plate?


 Bad. I also raised the engine 3 holes


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## GitchaPull (Oct 22, 2018)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> How bad was the porpoising before u added the Bob's plate?


 It will hold more water on the prop and let you raise it a little more


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

I was thinking of fabricating plates with aluminum plate, as I didn't want to drill through the cavitation plate.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Thanks


GitchaPull said:


> It will hold more water on the prop and let you raise it a little more


 For the information..


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Received the trolling motor today, missing the mount and box was destroyed n wrapped in tape to hold it together. Not a lot of luck trying to finish. Hodges Marine didn't offer a lot of help to remedy the order.


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## Guest (Oct 26, 2018)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> Received the trolling motor today, missing the mount and box was destroyed n wrapped in tape to hold it together. Not a lot of luck trying to finish. Hodges Marine didn't offer a lot of help to remedy the order.


Yeah, shipping service has gone straight to hell!


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Now my welder is getting non dependable and so trim tabs might have to wait. Sorta thinking about building an aluminum compression plate n see if that might help with porpoise issues. Need to see what others on the site have done. Didn't want to bolt thru the cavitation plate.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Had 6"×6" tabs welded on this morning, set @ 2d, added more weight to bow, 2-5gal, buckets, 70# concrete, tool box, 31series battery. About 275# in bow. I was able to run 5200 rpm barely start to trim @ 37 GPS, then porpoising starting.
Readjust trim tabs 3/4deg n try again. Every time able to trim out it picks up rpm n speed. Think there is more rpm with trim.
I readjusted tabs to 8deg n will test again tomorrow....


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Had to add tabs, adjusting them now. Up to 5200 @ 37 gps, n still unable to trim out...


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> View attachment 47262
> 
> Had to add tabs, adjusting them now. Up to 5200 @ 37 gps, n still unable to trim out...


Those tabs are tiny for that big ol hull. My Lencos are twice that big abd my hull and motor are around 700 pounds.
The guy that built this hull isn’t helping you figure out how to set it up? Those welded on tabs will inevitably get bent and end up cracking at the weld and aren’t adjustable. I’d get some 12x12” Lencos and be done with it, you can get a set for about $600 and have full control of your boat instead of static tabs.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Those tabs are tiny for that big ol hull. My Lencos are twice that big abd my hull and motor are around 700 pounds.
> The guy that built this hull isn’t helping you figure out how to set it up? Those welded on tabs will inevitably get bent and end up cracking at the weld and aren’t adjustable. I’d get some 12x12” Lencos and be done with it, you can get a set for about $600 and have full control of your boat instead of static tabs.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

I am on fixed income n retired, $70.00 vs $700.00, not in the budget now, still recovering from boat, motor, trailer...


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> I am on fixed income n retired, $70.00 vs $700.00, not in the budget now, still recovering from boat, motor, trailer...


I understand. If those little tabs cost $70 it was most likely free aluminum and $70 for an hour of labor. If he knows boats he should know those tiny tabs won’t change the ride in a hull that big very much. Since you are dead set on welding on aluminum plate I recommend going much bigger instead of trying to bend those small tabs down more. Try 9” long and 12-14” wide and you will probably have enough surface area to actually do some good. Once you get them performing like you want have gussets (triangle shaped pieces) welded in the middle of each tab to give them some rigidity.
I know I stated earlier that tabs aren’t really made to be band-aids for porpoising issues but it seems like either you need much bigger tabs or just a 2-3” lip angled down across the entire bottom of the transom and just leave a 18-20” gap in the center so the motor still gets water to the intakes and prop. I’m not sure why you are having such bad porpoising issues even with all the weight forward but I’m thinking that you may need to see if that prop needs some tweaking so you can hit WOT as well. 
I know you mentioned a compression plate earlier, that will help too. What prop is on it?


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Powertec red3 17, a spare prop as I wanted to see what pitch I needed. I read an article from propgods n he said that prop on f70la turned 1000 rpm less than scd3 17 which is a smaller cleaver style n turns up better. So will try test again tomorrow n see if extra angle made any difference. If I can trim the motor out prop may not too far out of rpm range.
Tabs are 6"×6".
If/when finally get tabs set will gusset w/triangle shapes.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Adjusting tabs to 10deg today helps a little to 5200 rpm @ 37/38 GPS n no extra weight in the boat. Have welder add 10" tabs tomorrow.


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## Guest (Oct 29, 2018)

Why not have him make them like this this time? This would get you adjustable tabs that are cheap and low maintenance!


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Boatbrains said:


> View attachment 47512
> 
> 
> View attachment 47510
> ...


Have him add 1/2" plate on transom n drill n tap n install those type of tabs.
Can u buy tab assembly like that?


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## Guest (Oct 29, 2018)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> Have him add 1/2" plate on transom n drill n tap n install those type of tabs.
> Can u buy tab assembly like that?


IDK, but it is easy enough to make.
Aluminum plate mounted to heavy duty hinge.
Stainless/ aluminum turn buckle and a simple fabricated upper mount.

The ones on that gheenoe are starboard, stainless hinges, tirnbuckles, and bimini top mounts.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

T


Boatbrains said:


> IDK, but it is easy enough to make.
> Aluminum plate mounted to heavy duty hinge.
> Stainless/ aluminum turn buckle and a simple fabricated upper mount.
> 
> The ones on that gheenoe are starboard, stainless hinges, tirnbuckles, and bimini top mounts.


Thanks, tomorrow have him widden them, then fab the adjustable ones....n install..


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> T
> 
> Thanks, tomorrow have him widden them, then fab the adjustable ones....n install..


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## GG34 (May 2, 2014)

You can but smart tabs for$70 bucks. Nauticas, I think? Wouldn't that be the same thing but are adjustable? I had them in an old Carolina skiff and they did wonders for that hull.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

If you keep paying this shop by the hour to tweak tabs, change tabs etc you may as well get some Lencos and be done. Maybe you have the hookup and his shop doesn’t charge $90/hour.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> If you keep paying this shop by the hour to tweak tabs, change tabs etc you may as well get some Lencos and be done. Maybe you have the hookup and his shop doesn’t charge $90/hour.


U r correct in ur concept, but I am designer by trade n probably build some manual turnbuckel style.


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## Fenceman (Sep 23, 2018)

I'd have to search to find a better picture, but this little 1260 I built a few years ago wanted to buck pretty bad with any kind of speed. I know that this isn't 100% comparative to your boat, but I built pods for it and let the bottom of them run long by 2". Pods made it better, and bending the tabs down a few degrees cured it. She's still running the river, last I knew. 

Nice boat you have there, by the way.


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## LowHydrogen (Dec 31, 2015)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> Adjusting tabs to 10deg today helps a little to 5200 rpm @ 37/38 GPS n no extra weight in the boat. Have welder add 10" tabs tomorrow.


Guys around here run permanent tabs like that on welded hunting skiffs. They adjust them with a rubber mallet lol and then when they hit something they just adjust them back. Never seen them crack or fail, and don't see why they would unless you started bending them often enough to go past their fatigue limit (unlikely).
Edit: to add these boats I'm taking about are 13-14' long and 4-5' wide, with tabs that size (6"x6"). Agree with other guys you may need some more surface area.

Most porpoiseing I've cured has been a symptom of the motor being mounted too low, how high is the cav plate above the bottom of the hull?

Sweet boat!


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

LowHydrogen said:


> Guys around here run permanent tabs like that on welded hunting skiffs. They adjust them with a rubber mallet lol and then when they hit something they just adjust them back. Never seen them crack or fail, and don't see why they would unless you started bending them often enough to go past their fatigue limit (unlikely).
> Edit: to add these boats I'm taking about are 13-14' long and 4-5' wide, with tabs that size (6"x6"). Agree with other guys you may need some more surface area.
> 
> Most porpoiseing I've cured has been a symptom of the motor being mounted too low, how high is the cav plate above the bottom of the hull?
> ...


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

This morning had 10"×10" tabs added, still does exactly the same porpoise @5200 37gps @ 10deg tab angle. Still cannot trim it out at wot. Seems like it handles better tho.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

This morning had 10"×10" tabs added, still does exactly the same porpoise @5200 37gps @ 10deg tab angle. Still cannot trim it out at wot. Seems like it handles better tho.
View attachment 47706


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Motor is about 2" above


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## Guest (Oct 30, 2018)

What is your transom angle?


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Move the console to the bow like a commercial crabbing boat. 
All jokes aside, maybe you can get some of that porpoising under control with a compression plate. Other than that maybe you may need to bite the bullet and get some Lencos in a 12x12” and be done. Move everything you can to the bow or try to find a 2 stroke 70. I know a guy that has one for sale...


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## Guest (Oct 30, 2018)

With nothing supporting the tabs they might be flexing up at that speed. They would still do more than nothing at all but not what you’d expect from a 10” tab.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Move the console to the bow like a commercial crabbing boat.
> All jokes aside, maybe you can get some of that porpoising under control with a compression plate. Other than that maybe you may need to bite the bullet and get some Lencos in a 12x12” and be done. Move everything you can to the bow or try to find a 2 stroke 70. I know a guy that has one for sale...


Have 250# foward n didn't make any difference. So far I have raised the engine, added 4" jack, 10"×10" tabs, added 250# to bow. Suggestions have been to raise engine higher, extend jack offset, add 4 blade prop, compression plate? Anything else should I investigate?


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Boatbrains said:


> With nothing supporting the tabs they might be flexing up at that speed. They would still do more than nothing at all but not what you’d expect from a 10” tab.


That's 3/16" plate


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## Guest (Oct 31, 2018)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> Have 250# foward n didn't make any difference. So far I have raised the engine, added 4" jack, 10"×10" tabs, added 250# to bow. Suggestions have been to raise engine higher, extend jack offset, add 4 blade prop, compression plate? Anything else should I investigate?


Make darn sure the hull bottom is true! Check it with a long straight edge! 


No Bait / Lures Only said:


> That's 3/16" plate


It can still flex, there is a lot of pressure on it when under way.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> Have 250# foward n didn't make any difference. So far I have raised the engine, added 4" jack, 10"×10" tabs, added 250# to bow. Suggestions have been to raise engine higher, extend jack offset, add 4 blade prop, compression plate? Anything else should I investigate?


I would keep the motor as close to the transom as possible, adding backspacing on the jack plate will just magnify your porpoising issue. 
I don’t understand why the shop that built this hull isn’t doing everything they can to help you get it tweaked and running properly. 5200 is more than a grand shy of WOT for that motor. 
You may consider having sponsons fabbed with some downward angle and then add some static tabs to the rear of them. 
I can only help so much without runninv it myself and putting my eyes and hands on it.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Did you ever state what the transom angle is? If it’s 90 degrees from the bottom of the hull you may need transom wedges. Most boats have some angle to the transom.


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## Guest (Oct 31, 2018)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> Have 250# foward n didn't make any difference. So far I have raised the engine, added 4" jack, 10"×10" tabs, added 250# to bow. Suggestions have been to raise engine higher, extend jack offset, add 4 blade prop, compression plate? Anything else should I investigate?


Ok, I am gonna go with Low Hydrogen a little here.
If I were dialing this rig in this is what I’d do at this point...
Get jack plate set and ready to adjust,
Take to water,
Raise jack plate and test, repeat!
Continue doing this until it just blows out then lower back down a little.
Try to set it so it just tries to blow out at the breakover point but doesn’t completely slip. Once you get this accomplished, try to take her on up in rpm and trim it out.


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## LowHydrogen (Dec 31, 2015)

Boatbrains said:


> Ok, I am gonna go with Low Hydrogen a little here.
> If I were dialing this rig in this is what I’d do at this point...
> Get jack plate set and ready to adjust,
> Take to water,
> ...


@Boatbrains nailed it
^That's exactly what I do. With low or 0 trim raise it up till it blows out trying to get on plane then drop it down about .5" to .75". Get on plane and put it in a hard turn, if it blows out drop it another .5" after that it's usually as good as it's going to get when you trim out without adding or subtracting something...weight-tabs-jackplate-wedges etc.

The way I understand it, porpoising happens when the motor is either too low in the water or over trimmed. Either one of those scenarios puts the motor in a situation where it is trying to dive in relation to the surface of the water. Because of the angle of approach of the cavitation plate or the foot angle when it's trimmed too high, either scenario is going to have the motor at an angle that is going to push the motor and transom down. This in turn lifts the bow, the bow continues to raise until the moment or weight in relationship to the force lifting it becomes too heavy for the motor to hold up, then the bow drops/falls resetting the improper angle to the foot or cav plate, and the whole process starts over, and bouncing down the river you go. 

@Smackdaddy53 and @Boatbrains are asking the angle of the transom because with the motor tucked all the way in it really shouldn't porpoise at all at any RPM. It should feel like the bow is plowing. Although if you have little to no transom angle you won't be able to trim much at all since really you're about 1/3-1/2 way trimmed already.

As an experiment if you do have a vertical or only slightly angled transom, would it be possible to put a piece of .25 or .5 alum flat bar behind the top of the jack-plate and re-tighten and run it again, that may be a cheap easy way of figuring out if set angle is causing your issue prior to buying and installing wedges. 

Sorry for the long post, I know how aggravating it can be dialing in a new boat, when you just want to fish, just trying to throw out ideas that may help you get it solved without throwing more money at it. Good Luck!


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## LowHydrogen (Dec 31, 2015)

Also for what it's worth I can make my 23' Mako porpoise if I trim it out too much, that's with 3 people on the bow and that thing is a F*ing TANK. With the weight you've described moving fwd I think you've essentially eliminated an unbalanced boat as the culprit. My money is on angles or motor heights.


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## Guest (Oct 31, 2018)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> Have 250# foward n didn't make any difference. So far I have raised the engine, added 4" jack, 10"×10" tabs, added 250# to bow. Suggestions have been to raise engine higher, extend jack offset, add 4 blade prop, compression plate? Anything else should I investigate?


Can you post a couple side pics of it with the motor trimmed/ tucked all the way down?


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Boatbrains said:


> Make darn sure the hull bottom is true! Check it with a long straight edge!
> 
> It can still flex, there is a lot of pressure on it when under way.


Lots if longitudinal frames, 5, 2"×1 1/2", 2 , 2"×2" angle for skid.
Currently motor height only cavitates a little getting up, not trimming out..


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Boatbrains said:


> Can you post a couple side pics of it with the motor trimmed/ tucked all the way down?


This


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

LowHydrogen said:


> @Boatbrains nailed it
> ^That's exactly what I do. With low or 0 trim raise it up till it blows out trying to get on plane then drop it down about .5" to .75". Get on plane and put it in a hard turn, if it blows out drop it another .5" after that it's usually as good as it's going to get when you trim out without adding or subtracting something...weight-tabs-jackplate-wedges etc.
> 
> The way I understand it, porpoising happens when the motor is either too low in the water or over trimmed. Either one of those scenarios puts the motor in a situation where it is trying to dive in relation to the surface of the water. Because of the angle of approach of the cavitation plate or the foot angle when it's trimmed too high, either scenario is going to have the motor at an angle that is going to push the motor and transom down. This in turn lifts the bow, the bow continues to raise until the moment or weight in relationship to the force lifting it becomes too heavy for the motor to hold up, then the bow drops/falls resetting the improper angle to the foot or cav plate, and the whole process starts over, and bouncing down the river you go.
> ...


Week 2 at experimenting with motor set up, will go this morning n check angle, n straight edge bottom.
Prop god told me the 4 blade @ 16" pitch would do the job. I wanted to exhaust all other items before buying a new prop. He did mention that the numbers I am running suggested the prop is modified..


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Per the suggestions the specs








Engine cavitation plate is 3 1/2" above the bottom.... Bottom pad true for at least 4' foward
Anyone with feedback concerning the issues I am having please chime in, thanks in advance...


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## texasag07 (Nov 11, 2014)

An easier and cheaper way to see how it would ride with more angle on your tabs, is to add more weight to the front and see if it fixes the porpoising. I recommend getting a couple bags of play sand from Home depot as it is pretty cheap and very heavy. 

It sounds like it is something more complex than just needing adjustable tabs, but we have done something similar before to get the bow down to test how it runs.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

that's a fricken nice little boat.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

tabs are nice but if you can't adjust them on the fly they are not efficient and cost you speed and fuel. I hate losing speed, esp when I already give some up for running shallow (triple cupped prop and tunnel). All tabs do is push the bow down, you can do that with weight distribution can't you?


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

devrep said:


> tabs are nice but if you can't adjust them on the fly they are not efficient and cost you speed and fuel. I hate losing speed, esp when I already give some up for running shallow (triple cupped prop and tunnel). All tabs do is push the bow down, you can do that with weight distribution can't you?


Just a stock prop for a spare is what I started with PT RED 3 17. Still trying for a baseline running wot n trimmed out, so far I haven't gotten above 5200rpm n 37/38 GPS.
Want to get performance max before going into new prop, sorta my budget rigging...


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

devrep said:


> tabs are nice but if you can't adjust them on the fly they are not efficient and cost you speed and fuel. I hate losing speed, esp when I already give some up for running shallow (triple cupped prop and tunnel). All tabs do is push the bow down, you can do that with weight distribution can't you?


It runs perfectly to 5200 @ 37 and then porpoising.


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## makin moves (Mar 20, 2010)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> It runs perfectly to 5200 @ 37 and then porpoising.


That's because she wants to take off and fly!!! You'll get it dialed in. That's going to be a great boat to you for years to come.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

What would a set of pods added to the transom do for performance?


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> What would a set of pods added to the transom do for performance?


Add floatation, squeeze more water up to the prop and act as big trim tabs by not allowing water to rise off the transom. I designed and had step pods fabbed for the boat in the beginning of this thread when you were asking about TuffCoat. I had no porpoising issues at all.


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## Guest (Oct 31, 2018)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Add floatation, squeeze more water up to the prop and act as big trim tabs by not allowing water to rise off the transom. I designed and had step pods fabbed for the boat in the beginning of this thread when you were asking about TuffCoat. I had no porpoising issues at all.


This, and if you hunt waterfowl you can build in steps for the dog.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Pods cost? $500.00??


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## richg99 (Nov 28, 2009)

These pods are pre-made. Just posting it to give you a baseline on cost/size etc. Custom made for your boat would probably be better.

https://www.explorebeavertail.com/p...0JSqCTnS2QsmUXyHXof8Tpt6gRjcLLExoCAa4QAvD_BwE


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## Guest (Oct 31, 2018)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> View attachment 47830
> Per the suggestions the specs
> View attachment 47822
> 
> ...


Is this with the motor trimmed all the way down?


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> Pods cost? $500.00??


I had Boyd’s Welding in Florida fab mine and it was $460 shipped to my door in Texas.
Don’t go with pre made pods, it’s not what you want welded to that pretty new hull. I’d go custom. Boyd’s does the best work IMO. They specialize in fuel tanks so you know they are quality.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

have you tried a stern lifting prop? I would be all over the builder if this problem is severe.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Boatbrains said:


> Is this with the motor trimmed all the way down?


No trimmed to neutral position


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

devrep said:


> have you tried a stern lifting prop? I would be all over the builder if this problem is severe.


No just this spare prop


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## Guest (Nov 1, 2018)

If you raise the jack plate will she blow out? Sorry if questions are repetitive, but you can count the things that cause porpoising on a hand.


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## Guest (Nov 1, 2018)

It has been my experience with “padded” hulls that they run best with the gearcase nosecone centerline about parallel with hull bottom. You may need to prop for this but that’s where they run best eapecially with the 6” offset.


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## Guest (Nov 1, 2018)

Also, with your transom angle the “neutral” position is a fair amount of trim and every boat acts different.


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## Guest (Nov 1, 2018)

If you can, shoot a video when on plane and trimmed over the transom at the cavitation plate and post it or pm it to me.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Boatbrains said:


> If you raise the jack plate will she blow out? Sorry if questions are repetitive, but you can count the things that cause porpoising on a hand.


I raised it once, from 2.5" to 3.5" n it only ventilated a little getting up, it's usable. Didn't try any higher.
Will raise the engine 1/2" higher n adjusted trim tabs 5deg more...


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

O


Boatbrains said:


> Also, with your transom angle the “neutral” position is a fair amount of trim and every boat acts different.





Boatbrains said:


> Also, with your transom angle the “neutral” position is a fair amount of trim and every boat acts different.


Neutral position is almost max on trim before porpoise started..


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Boatbrains said:


> It has been my experience with “padded” hulls that they run best with the gearcase nosecone centerline about parallel with hull bottom. You may need to prop for this but that’s where they run best eapecially with the 6” offset.


I am offset 4"


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

You should be able to jump on plane without cavitating and run that sucker 6400rpm with no issue. Something is definitely not right. 
Can you send a photo of the transom from the side with the motor trimmed under full tuck?


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> You should be able to jump on plane without cavitating and run that sucker 6400rpm with no issue. Something is definitely not right.
> Can you send a photo of the transom from the side with the motor trimmed under full tuck?


Will do


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> You should be able to jump on plane without cavitating and run that sucker 6400rpm with no issue. Something is definitely not right.
> Can you send a photo of the transom from the side with the motor trimmed under full tuck?


Will do


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Boatbrains said:


> Is this with the motor trimmed all the way down?


Trimmed all way down


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## Guest (Nov 1, 2018)

Try this,
Raise that motor so centerline of the bullet is slightly below the hull bottom. Tuck the motor all the way down and jump it up on plane. It should just start to blow out at break over and keep goin.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Will try tomorrow


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## Fenceman (Sep 23, 2018)

A little math, a box of beer, bottle of argon, and there ya go. Easy peasy.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Fenceman said:


> A little math, a box of beer, bottle of argon, and there ya go. Easy peasy.
> View attachment 47914
> View attachment 47916
> View attachment 47918
> View attachment 47920


Beautiful fabricated work, 1/8" plate?
Weight?


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## Fenceman (Sep 23, 2018)

A little math, a box of beer, bottle of argon, and there ya go. Easy peasy.
View attachment 47914
View attachment 47916
View attachment 47918
View attachment 47920



No Bait / Lures Only said:


> Beautiful fabricated work, 1/8" plate?
> Weight?


Thanks. Yes, all .125. Couldn't tell you what they weighed, but not much compared to what they float. 1.78 pounds per square foot or so, if memory serves. I wouldn't promise that it will cure your problem, but it usually does, in my limited experience.


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## Guest (Nov 1, 2018)

One thing to keep in mind is this hull had a pad bottom. It’s not a “v” hull or flat bottom. There is a lot going on when running this hull at planing speeds. I agree that sponsons will most likely cure the porpoise, my concern is that they might also cause some serious side effects on this hull.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Here’s the step pods I designed and had Boyd’s fab. CNC cut out of .125” plate and pressure tested for $460 which $60-70 was shipping from Florida to Texas. 
The trim tabs were an afterthought. I had no porpoising issues but decided I wanted trim tabs for holeshot and controlling the boat’s attitude quartering waves etc.


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## Fenceman (Sep 23, 2018)

Boatbrains said:


> One thing to keep in mind is this hull had a pad bottom. It’s not a “v” hull or flat bottom. There is a lot going on when running this hull at planing speeds. I agree that sponsons will most likely cure the porpoise, my concern is that they might also cause some serious side effects on this hull.


Give us the rundown on the serious side effects, if you don't mind. I can already tell you that the way I void warranties, this Piranha skiff I bought is going to need to be replaced by an aluminum version, ASAP. I'd like to avoid any major flaws on the front end of the design, instead of the back end of the build.


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## Guest (Nov 1, 2018)

Chine walking at speed is the first potential side effect. I’m not sayin it’s a definate but potential. A padded hull acts differently that a v or flat. You want that pad to be the only “wetted” surface reducing drag. I feel the pods might increase the potential for chine walking.


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## Guest (Nov 1, 2018)

Fenceman said:


> Give us the rundown on the serious side effects, if you don't mind. I can already tell you that the way I void warranties, this Piranha skiff I bought is going to need to be replaced by an aluminum version, ASAP. I'd like to avoid any major flaws on the front end of the design, instead of the back end of the build.


Looks like Sabine has already designed a great skiff unless ya wanna re invent the wheel like the rest of us lol!


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## Guest (Nov 1, 2018)

Drag would be another side effect possibly rendering the pad useless. If the boat can’t get up and run on the pad, no point in it haveing a pad.


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## Guest (Nov 1, 2018)

I’m honestly not sure why this style boat has a pad. That is a go fast design and not necessary in most of our cases. Some of the op’s problem could be the pad isn’t on a bottom with enough deadrise therefore, when the hull is trying to get up on the pad water is still dragging the back of the hull down and the hydrodynamics are fighting back and fourth! I hope I am wrong here!


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## Guest (Nov 1, 2018)

I will add, if I am right in my last observation... I think sponsons are the only way to cure it. They will mostly render the delta pad useless but will stop his porpoising and make the boat very usable.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Boatbrains said:


> I will add, if I am right in my last observation... I think sponsons are the only way to cure it. They will mostly render the delta pad useless but will stop his porpoising and make the boat very usable.


Probably killing about 4/5 GPS speed not being able to open up n trim out. Still couple more tests before pods r a consideration. Raising engine n tabs 5deg more, we will see....
During acceleration it spins up n when it locks up on pad it drops 400/500 rpm n started accelerating nicely.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Boatbrains said:


> I will add, if I am right in my last observation... I think sponsons are the only way to cure it. They will mostly render the delta pad useless but will stop his porpoising and make the boat very usable.


Would adding pods act like a 3 point hydro?


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## makin moves (Mar 20, 2010)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> Probably killing about 4/5 GPS speed not being able to open up n trim out. Still couple more tests before pods r a consideration. Raising engine n tabs 5deg more, we will see....


Before you spend more money try the sand bags up front and see if more weight foward is the cure. How does it sit in the water? Does the ass end squat?


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

60" bottom drag vs 18" drag on the pad


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## Guest (Nov 1, 2018)

I pm’d ya my number. Give me a call and we’ll discuss a little. I am thinking that with your hull bottom the pods might be the only “cure” to the porpoising and the side effect of chine walking I mentioned would not be a problem on your hull as you don’t have enough deadrise for them to cause it.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

makin moves said:


> Before you spend more money try the sand bags up front and see if more weight foward is the cure. How does it sit in the water? Does the ass end squat?


3"/4" draft


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## Guest (Nov 1, 2018)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> Would adding pods act like a 3 point hydro?


Not really. They will add stern bouyency and create some drag and lift at the same time in the stern


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

makin moves said:


> Before you spend more money try the sand bags up front and see if more weight foward is the cure. How does it sit in the water? Does the ass end squat?


He already put over 250 pounds up front and it didn’t help.


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## makin moves (Mar 20, 2010)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> He already put over 250 pounds up front and it didn’t help.


I missed that.


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## Fenceman (Sep 23, 2018)

Boatbrains said:


> Looks like Sabine has already designed a great skiff unless ya wanna re invent the wheel like the rest of us lol!


No argument there, but I’m short a few Krugerrands, and I doubt they’ll find any mutual benefit to sharing the plans with me! Lol
I have a decent shop full of tools, so I’d say it’ll be DIY or nothing...unless I have a rich uncle I’ve not yet met.


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## Guest (Nov 1, 2018)

Nuttin wrong with diy!


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## LowHydrogen (Dec 31, 2015)

I think @Boatbrains is on to something, I didn't realize this boat had a pad bottom. Never seen one on a flat bottom boat like that. All pad bottom boats I have see had lifting strakes, that eventually made their way to a keel pad. Other common factors, they had a ton of horsepower to lock the boat up on the pad, and weight in the back isn't typically an issue with those hulls because they are riding/running a bit bow high at speed anyway. 

Following this thread with interest. @No Bait / Lures Only make sure you let us know what you figure out.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

is there a picture of the bottom showing the pad? I went back thru and don't see it. looking at the stern I see a flattened center but not what I







would call a traditional pad, like this.


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## Guest (Nov 1, 2018)

devrep said:


> is there a picture of the bottom showing the pad? I went back thru and don't see it. looking at the stern I see a flattened center but not what I
> View attachment 47966
> would call a traditional pad, like this.


While not conventional, it’s still a pad and I think I have it solved! Not repaired but solved lol! At this point, I truly believe pods are what it’s gonna take to stop it. I know that contradicts my take earlier but I think it’s rapidly on and off the pad causing the “porpoise”.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

add


Smackdaddy53 said:


> He already put over 250 pounds up front and it didn’t help.


adding 250 lbs at the bow is a lot. I would try like 100 or so. unbalanced either end can cause porposing.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

did I miss why Uncle J's boats is not responsible for their boat operating correctly?


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Pictures show bottom















Raised engine another 1"


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)




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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> Pictures show bottom
> View attachment 47986
> View attachment 47988
> 
> Raised engine another 1"


Can you get one from under the front so we can see what the bottom looks like?


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Can you get one from under the front so we can see what the bottom looks like?


Ok


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> View attachment 47990


motor seems high for a non tunnel hull. usually the anti cav plate is just out of the water which whould put it just higher than the bottom of the hull.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

devrep said:


> motor seems high for a non tunnel hull. usually the anti cav plate is just out of the water which whould put it just higher than the bottom of the hull.


Not with a 4” jackplate, you are correct if he had the motor directly bolted to the transom. 4” setback gives some wiggle room to move it higher and maintain prop grip and water pressure. Even more so if he had a compression plate.


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## Guest (Nov 2, 2018)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Not with a 4” jackplate, you are correct if he had the motor directly bolted to the transom. 4” setback gives some wiggle room to move it higher and maintain prop grip and water pressure. Even more so if he had a compression plate.


Yepper, and depends on how the apron of water is coming off the bottom of that pad.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

4 1/2" high today, give it another try. Try trim all the way in n trim it out. Tabs 5deg lower.


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## Guest (Nov 2, 2018)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> 4 1/2" high today, give it another try. Try trim all the way in n trim it out. Tabs 5deg lower.


Did she improve at all yesterday after raising it?


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Boatbrains said:


> Did she improve at all yesterday after raising it?


Later today


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## Elusive Porpi (Jan 24, 2018)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> Later today


38 mph with a 70 hp is pretty fast. I'm not sure you woill get much more out of it. Only a completely different hull would go faster is my opinion. I have a 90hp on a 500# 17' hull with sponsons and the best I can do is 39. The hull is made for poling, handling, stealth, and floating shallow, not speed. Haven't seen many hulls that do it all. 

What speeds are everyone else getting out of there 70?


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Boatbrains said:


> Yepper, and depends on how the apron of water is coming off the bottom of that pad.


I think the rule of thumb is roughly 1” of rise per foot away from the bottom of the transom so if trimmed out flat his nose cone is 24” back it can be raised 2” higher than cav plate at even with hull bottom.


Elusive Porpi said:


> 38 mph with a 70 hp is pretty fast. I'm not sure you woill get much more out of it. Only a completely different hull would go faster is my opinion. I have a 90hp on a 500# 17' hull with sponsons and the best I can do is 39. The hull is made for poling, handling, stealth, and floating shallow, not speed. Haven't seen many hulls that do it all.
> 
> What speeds are everyone else getting out of there 70?


But the F70 has a WOT of 6300rpm and he’s about a thousand shy of that. The point is he wants to get the boat set up correctly so it stops porpoising so he can trim her out and see what the true max rpm is so he can tweak the prop.


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## Elusive Porpi (Jan 24, 2018)

But the F70 has a WOT of 6400rpm and he’s about a thousand shy of that. The point is he wants to get the boat set up correctly so it stops porpoising so he can trim her out and see what the true max rpm is so he can tweak the prop.[/QUOTE]

As a person who has rode in small aluminum boats set up close to that one his entire life, what he has done is about all you can do. They are just drastically back heavy. no way around it. maybe adding the passenger seat very forward in the boat can help some, but then the wet area of the boat increases dramatically. Im very interested to see if he can get some more speed out of it. Also running the motor very high on the jack plate isnt much different that trimming up if the boat is alread on the verge of porpoising.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Elusive Porpi said:


> But the F70 has a WOT of 6400rpm and he’s about a thousand shy of that. The point is he wants to get the boat set up correctly so it stops porpoising so he can trim her out and see what the true max rpm is so he can tweak the prop.


As a person who has rode in small aluminum boats set up close to that one his entire life, what he has done is about all you can do. They are just drastically back heavy. no way around it. maybe adding the passenger seat very forward in the boat can help some, but then the wet area of the boat increases dramatically. Im very interested to see if he can get some more speed out of it. Also running the motor very high on the jack plate isnt much different that trimming up if the boat is alread on the verge of porpoising.[/QUOTE]
I understand that, you are not getting my point. I’m saying for an outboard to properly and efficiently run it needs to have to correct prop to operate within it’s power band. You don’t want to dog a motor with a prop that can only run 5400 rpm or the lower end will suffer and it puts more stress on the motor. It’s exactly like running a vehicle with tires that are so large in diameter that the gearing can’t keep up and the motor and transmission are always straining. I’m a believer in hull speed and his hull might only be a 38-40mph hull but it needs to operate correctly before he can get the prop dialed in.


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## Guest (Nov 2, 2018)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> As a person who has rode in small aluminum boats set up close to that one his entire life, what he has done is about all you can do. They are just drastically back heavy. no way around it. maybe adding the passenger seat very forward in the boat can help some, but then the wet area of the boat increases dramatically. Im very interested to see if he can get some more speed out of it. Also running the motor very high on the jack plate isnt much different that trimming up if the boat is alread on the verge of porpoising.


I understand that, you are not getting my point. I’m saying for an outboard to properly and efficiently run it needs to have to correct prop to operate within it’s power band. You don’t want to dog a motor with a prop that can only run 5400 rpm or the lower end will suffer and it puts more stress on the motor. It’s exactly like running a vehicle with tires that are so large in diameter that the gearing can’t keep up and the motor and transmission are always straining. I’m a believer in hull speed and his hull might only be a 38-40mph hull but it needs to operate correctly before he can get the prop dialed in.[/QUOTE]
Well said sir! 


Elusive Porpi said:


> But the F70 has a WOT of 6400rpm and he’s about a thousand shy of that. The point is he wants to get the boat set up correctly so it stops porpoising so he can trim her out and see what the true max rpm is so he can tweak the prop.


As a person who has rode in small aluminum boats set up close to that one his entire life, what he has done is about all you can do. They are just drastically back heavy. no way around it. maybe adding the passenger seat very forward in the boat can help some, but then the wet area of the boat increases dramatically. Im very interested to see if he can get some more speed out of it. Also running the motor very high on the jack plate isnt much different that trimming up if the boat is alread on the verge of porpoising.[/QUOTE]
He has already added 250#’s forward as a test and it didn’t work. I am almost positive my theory is correct as someone who has set up both shallow water skiffs and go fast boats for a very long time. Hull speed is real. You are correct in that the boat will only go so fast, but Smackdaddy53 is also correct in that the op needs to get this thing dialed in to see it best overall performance and to avoid excess strain on the motor and gear case. After speaking to the op yesterday, I feel he is happy with the speed and just wants to get the porpoise under control and get it propped to get the best hole shot/ wide open happy spot he can.


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## Elusive Porpi (Jan 24, 2018)

Got ya. All that is needed is prop work from what it looks like to me.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

with only 4" of setback I still think the motor is too high. It looks like the anti cav plate is 5 or 6" above the bottom. NBLO have you tried it with the cav plate 1 or 2" above the bottom?


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## Guest (Nov 2, 2018)

devrep said:


> with only 4" of setback I still think the motor is too high. It looks like the anti cav plate is 5 or 6" above the bottom. NBLO have you tried it with the cav plate 1 or 2" above the bottom?


He said it ain’t blowing out as of yesterday so that leaves room to raise it.


Elusive Porpi said:


> Got ya. All that is needed is prop work from what it looks like to me.


A prop swap isn’t gonna stop porpoising in my opinion.


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## Elusive Porpi (Jan 24, 2018)

Ever thought about the "Smart Tabs"? $120


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## texasag07 (Nov 11, 2014)

Elusive Porpi said:


> Ever thought about the "Smart Tabs"? $120


They kinda work, my friend has them on his panga, but they don’t work near as good as adjustable tabs, and he wishes he had lenco’s.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

texasag07 said:


> They kinda work, my friend has them on his panga, but they don’t work near as good as adjustable tabs, and he wishes he had lenco’s.


They do the opposite of what the OP needs. They are down from the beginning and water pressure pushes them up as speed picks up offering more aid with hole shot than help with porpoising at planing speeds. The OP has static tabs that are the same size and still has the issue so it’s something else causing it. Those things are ugly as hell too, maybe ok on a beater but this guy spent lots of money, I’d want something a little more aesthetically pleasing but I’m weird. Another $350 and you can have Lencos with adjustment at your fingertips. I don’t think it’s an issue tabs or weight forward is going to cure now that we are at this point with what he has tried. Sponsons would probably help but I’m also thinking cutting the pad out and welding in a shallow vented tunnel might solve his issues. Boatbrains is on the right track I believe.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Elusive Porpi said:


> 38 mph with a 70 hp is pretty fast. I'm not sure you woill get much more out of it. Only a completely different hull would go faster is my opinion. I have a 90hp on a 500# 17' hull with sponsons and the best I can do is 39. The hull is made for poling, handling, stealth, and floating shallow, not speed. Haven't seen many hulls that do it all.
> 
> What speeds are everyone else getting out of there 70?


The speed is with a gps n still can't trim out r open it up yet.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Elusive Porpi said:


> 38 mph with a 70 hp is pretty fast. I'm not sure you woill get much more out of it. Only a completely different hull would go faster is my opinion. I have a 90hp on a 500# 17' hull with sponsons and the best I can do is 39. The hull is made for poling, handling, stealth, and floating shallow, not speed. Haven't seen many hulls that do it all.
> 
> What speeds are everyone else getting out of there 70?


How wide is your planning surface? Mine is 18"


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

devrep said:


> with only 4" of setback I still think the motor is too high. It looks like the anti cav plate is 5 or 6" above the bottom. NBLO have you tried it with the cav plate 1 or 2" above the bottom?


Yes the same @ 2"


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Boatbrains said:


> He said it ain’t blowing out as of yesterday so that leaves room to raise it.
> 
> A prop swap isn’t gonna stop porpoising in my opinion.


According to prop God's a 4 blade aggressive chopper style @16" pitch power tech would do the trick.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

devrep said:


> with only 4" of setback I still think the motor is too high. It looks like the anti cav plate is 5 or 6" above the bottom. NBLO have you tried it with the cav plate 1 or 2" above the bottom?


4 1/2" high now, was 3 1/2" n bairly ventilated getting up on plane.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> They do the opposite of what the OP needs. They are down from the beginning and water pressure pushes them up as speed picks up offering more aid with hole shot than help with porpoising at planing speeds. The OP has static tabs that are the same size and still has the issue so it’s something else causing it. Those things are ugly as hell too, maybe ok on a beater but this guy spent lots of money, I’d want something a little more aesthetically pleasing but I’m weird. Another $350 and you can have Lencos with adjustment at your fingertips. I don’t think it’s an issue tabs or weight forward is going to cure now that we are at this point with what he has tried. Sponsons would probably help but I’m also thinking cutting the pad out and welding in a shallow vented tunnel might solve his issues. Boatbrains is on the right track I believe.


I am going through the basic steps first before going to major extreme ones last.


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## Guest (Nov 2, 2018)

How did it run today? Any improvements? Did you get any video for me? I am about to throw money down that I am right on this and that she is bouncin off the stern when trimming up!


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## Guest (Nov 2, 2018)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> According to prop God's a 4 blade aggressive chopper style @16" pitch power tech would do the trick.


I seriously don’t think a prop will solve the porpoise. A prop can do a lot of things but I’ve never seen the wrong prop cause porpoising.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> They do the opposite of what the OP needs. They are down from the beginning and water pressure pushes them up as speed picks up offering more aid with hole shot than help with porpoising at planing speeds. The OP has static tabs that are the same size and still has the issue so it’s something else causing it. Those things are ugly as hell too, maybe ok on a beater but this guy spent lots of money, I’d want something a little more aesthetically pleasing but I’m weird. Another $350 and you can have Lencos with adjustment at your fingertips. I don’t think it’s an issue tabs or weight forward is going to cure now that we are at this point with what he has tried. Sponsons would probably help but I’m also thinking cutting the pad out and welding in a shallow vented tunnel might solve his issues. Boatbrains is on the right track I believe.


A tunnel is not needed where I fish, glades x without tunnel n 25 did everything I needed.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Boatbrains said:


> I seriously don’t think a prop will solve the porpoise. A prop can do a lot of things but I’ve never seen the wrong prop cause porpoising.


Got a response from the builder n he was willing to add the pods n no issues..


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## Elusive Porpi (Jan 24, 2018)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> How wide is your planning surface? Mine is 18"


Not really sure what that is. Im guessing thats the area that is in the water when on plane? My boat is basically a larger version of a BT Misquito. about 60 in wide at the stern and a 1-2 degree V. It bouces with just me in it and i have to use tabs. With a person in the front it does stop bouncing. I can then trim up some, but the speed does not change much. 

I talked with "Prop God" as well, and was told that the cleaver style prop raises the stern more, and not the bow, where as others do generate more bow lift.


----------



## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)




----------



## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

.


Elusive Porpi said:


> Not really sure what that is. Im guessing thats the area that is in the water when on plane? My boat is basically a larger version of a BT Misquito. about 60 in wide at the stern and a 1-2 degree V.
> 
> I talked with "Prop God" as well, and was told that the cleaver style prop raises the stern more, and not the bow, where as others do generate more bow lift.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

The planning surface is the pad, once the hull speed picks up the hull is now going from 60" to 18" n so 2/3 less drag than full width bottom raised up at higher speed.


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## Guest (Nov 2, 2018)

Elusive Porpi said:


> Not really sure what that is. Im guessing thats the area that is in the water when on plane? My boat is basically a larger version of a BT Misquito. about 60 in wide at the stern and a 1-2 degree V.
> 
> I talked with "Prop God" as well, and was told that the cleaver style prop raises the stern more, and not the bow, where as others do generate more bow lift.


Your stern is pretty even from side to side with that deadrise. Your planing surface is essentially the width of your boat. If you look at the op’s bottom pic you’ll notice an 18” wide flat pad that goes into a slight v then flat again. Now picture the hull getting up on that pad “planing surface” now think about the longitudinal force changing when trimming up essentially pushing down on the stern, now look at the distance between the bottom of the pad and the outside flat areas and you’ll notice it’s only a couple inches. My theory is the boat is getting up on that 18” wide pad and when trimming up it pushing the stern down causing the outside flat areas to hit the water surface effectively bouncing the stern off the water.


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## Elusive Porpi (Jan 24, 2018)

is 38 fast enough to raise the boat up on that pad? My last boat was a sterling with a great pad design, but with my 90 hp, 40 mph didnt get it there. (although it was 2x as heavy as OP's boat) If OP's boat is getting on the pad, the tabs may become useless; which actually may be happening. 

Lots of the newer bay boats run with tabs almost all the time as well until they hit 45+. They compensate the negative trim with raising the motor to free up the RPM's. and form there you can adjust the prop.


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## Guest (Nov 2, 2018)

Elusive Porpi said:


> is 38 fast enough to raise the boat up on that pad? My last boat was a sterling with a great pad design, but with my 90 hp, 40 mph didnt get it there. (although it was 2x as heavy as OP's boat) If OP's boat is getting on the pad, the tabs may become useless; which actually may be happening.
> 
> Lots of the newer bay boats run with tabs almost all the time as well until they hit 45+. They compensate the negative trim with raising the motor to free up the RPM's. and form there you can adjust the prop.


Given the pad width and the pretty much flat easy to plane bottom of the design I’d say 38 is fast enough to get it on the pad. If the v carried out to the chines I’d say he would need a but more speed but that’s not the case. OP says it is getting on it too so I’m only as good as ny intel here. 
I gad a little 18’ stratos that would get in the pad at around 40 with a tuned 115 intruder.


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## texasag07 (Nov 11, 2014)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> They do the opposite of what the OP needs. They are down from the beginning and water pressure pushes them up as speed picks up offering more aid with hole shot than help with porpoising at planing speeds. The OP has static tabs that are the same size and still has the issue so it’s something else causing it. Those things are ugly as hell too, maybe ok on a beater but this guy spent lots of money, I’d want something a little more aesthetically pleasing but I’m weird. Another $350 and you can have Lencos with adjustment at your fingertips. I don’t think it’s an issue tabs or weight forward is going to cure now that we are at this point with what he has tried. Sponsons would probably help but I’m also thinking cutting the pad out and welding in a shallow vented tunnel might solve his issues. Boatbrains is on the right track I believe.


Yeah I understand I was just speaking in general terms about the product, sorry for the confusion.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> Got a response from the builder n he was willing to add the pods n no issues..


You are welcome to use my design drawing as a baseline and edit the dimensions and angles. They worked perfectly on my hull which was a 1652 modified v hull. I welded them on flush with the bottom of the transom and they had a slight angle up because I knew my boat was bow heavy. You may want to leave them level with the pad and leave the bottom long like the other guys did and use those extended pieces for static tabs unless you think you may go for the Lencos. I think you would love the control they give you but I understand you being on a limited income/budget on this build. If not, maybe fab the pods with some angle down but I’d be concerned if the pods work too well you may have the opposite effect and plow the bow. Maybe a naval architect could look at your hull design and tell you why it’s doing what it’s doing and possibly save you some time and money. Just trying to help because I was once in your shoes fooling with a boat instead of fishing.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

texasag07 said:


> Yeah I understand I was just speaking in general terms about the product, sorry for the confusion.


I meant to quote the previous post, not yours. Sorry!


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> You are welcome to use my design drawing as a baseline and edit the dimensions and angles. They worked perfectly on my hull which was a 1652 modified v hull. I welded them on flush with the bottom of the transom and they had a slight angle up because I knew my boat was bow heavy. You may want to leave them level with the pad and leave the bottom long like the other guys did and use those extended pieces for static tabs unless you think you may go for the Lencos. I think you would love the control they give you but I understand you being on a limited income/budget on this build. If not, maybe fab the pods with some angle down but I’d be concerned if the pods work too well you may have the opposite effect and plow the bow. Maybe a naval architect could look at your hull design and tell you why it’s doing what it’s doing and possibly save you some time and money. Just trying to help because I was once in your shoes fooling with a boat instead of fishing.


From what I understand the builder welds flush at transom n angles up, and so the pad will be -1 1/2" below at transom n pods...


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> You are welcome to use my design drawing as a baseline and edit the dimensions and angles. They worked perfectly on my hull which was a 1652 modified v hull. I welded them on flush with the bottom of the transom and they had a slight angle up because I knew my boat was bow heavy. You may want to leave them level with the pad and leave the bottom long like the other guys did and use those extended pieces for static tabs unless you think you may go for the Lencos. I think you would love the control they give you but I understand you being on a limited income/budget on this build. If not, maybe fab the pods with some angle down but I’d be concerned if the pods work too well you may have the opposite effect and plow the bow. Maybe a naval architect could look at your hull design and tell you why it’s doing what it’s doing and possibly save you some time and money. Just trying to help because I was once in your shoes fooling with a boat instead of fishing.


What dimensions were your pods? I only have 10" horizontal on both sides of the pad.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> From what I understand the builder welds flush at transom n angles up, and so the pad will be -1 1/2" below at transom n pods...


That is a general rule of thumb for a hull that already runs fine with no porpoising issues and pods are added for floatation more than anything. I don’t think I would angle the pods up, that kind of negates the reason you are considering having pods added. I would probably keep them level with the bottom so you don’t magnify the bow lift issue.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> That is a general rule of thumb for a hull that already runs fine with no porpoising issues and pods are added for floatation more than anything. I don’t think I would angle the pods up, that kind of negates the reason you are considering having pods added. I would probably keep them level with the bottom so you don’t magnify the bow lift issue.


What is the width of your pods?


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> What dimensions were your pods? I only have 10" horizontal on both sides of the pad.


16” wide at bottom and 20” long fro the bottom of transom. My hull was 52” wide. You probably don’t have to keep the pods outside of the pad but I’m not sure. A naval architect could tell you what to do.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> 16” wide at bottom and 20” long fro the bottom of transom. My hull was 52” wide. You probably don’t have to keep the pods outside of the pad but I’m not sure. A naval architect could tell you what to do.


Thanks


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## Zika (Aug 6, 2015)

Elusive Porpi said:


> My boat is basically a larger version of a BT Misquito. about 60 in wide at the stern and a 1-2 degree V. It bouces with just me in it and i have to use tabs. With a person in the front it does stop bouncing. I can then trim up some, but the speed does not change much.


Sorry, but if your boat is bouncing and porpoising with just you, it's not basically a larger version of a BT Mosquito.

NBLO, sorry about your issues dialing the new boat in. Lot of good suggestions here, but glad to hear the builder is working with you to correct the performance problems. Adding a set of pods level to the bottom of the hull sounds like a logical solution for the porpoising and then you may have to tweak the prop to reach the correct engine RPM range. Good luck.


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## Elusive Porpi (Jan 24, 2018)

Zika said:


> Sorry, but if your boat is bouncing and porpoising with just you, it's not basically a larger version of a BT Mosquito


Confused on that reply. It has the same shape... u gathered a whole lot of info on that one sentence. But carry on.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

So far as it is 36gps @ 5200 rpm no issues perfect attitude running, haven't loaded the boat down going fishing yet. So I would be adding 350#, person, 2 boxes, ice, gas, trolling motor, etc.


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## GitchaPull (Oct 22, 2018)

You might want to drop down in pitch. You've got 400 rpm left without an extra 400-500 lbs in it.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

GitchaPull said:


> You might want to drop down in pitch. You've got 400 rpm left without an extra 400-500 lbs in it.


It’s an F70 WOT is 6300, not 5800 like the 2 stroke. I don’t think he’s saying he can’t get more than 5200, he just can’t get over that without trimming out more and porpoising. With a three blade it’s about 200rpm drop for each added inch of pitch but he needs to load it with his typical gear and then see if it still porpoises and figure out why it’s doing that before messing with tweaking the prop.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> It’s an F70 WOT is 6300, not 5800 like the 2 stroke. I don’t think he’s saying he can’t get more than 5200, he just can’t get over that without trimming out more and porpoising. With a three blade it’s about 200rpm drop for each added inch of pitch but he needs to load it with his typical gear and then see if it still porpoises and figure out why it’s doing that before messing with tweaking the prop.


Perfect, my thoughts.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Finally getting trolling motor mount n finish that up Monday. Re non skided the floor because of slipping issues. Try out new engine height n tab angle tomorrow morning.
Try to put this project to rest n go fishing...


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Thanks all for positive input, maybe put pods on later..hummm.


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## GitchaPull (Oct 22, 2018)

Good luck man. Hope the adjustments work and you get er dialed in. Test and tune can get aggravating when the results you are hoping for aren't coming. Mine isnt absolutely perfect either but learning how it likes to be run and adapting certainly helped


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> Thanks all for positive input, maybe put pods on later..hummm.


We’ve all been trying. I wish I was close enough to help you in person.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> We’ve all been trying. I wish I was close enough to help you in person.


No problem. Just started thinking that if 10x20 pods would help might try tabs that size. Has anyone tried new Benett electric tabs? Sorta reasonable prices?


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## Zika (Aug 6, 2015)

Trim tabs are essential for most boats, IMO, but for adjusting to load, sea conditions and certain operating scenarios (like raising the stern to pop up quickly to get on plane). Constant tabs shouldn't be necessary unless there's a problem with the hull design or engine height. Still sounds like adding the pods would be the best solution for you.

Bennett hydraulic tabs are bullet-proof. No personal experience with the electric versions, though, and would wonder about the durability and effectiveness of electric tabs the size you're describing.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Zika said:


> Trim tabs are essential for most boats, IMO, but for adjusting to load, sea conditions and certain operating scenarios (like raising the stern to pop up quickly to get on plane). Constant tabs shouldn't be necessary unless there's a problem with the hull design or engine height. Still sounds like adding the pods would be the best solution for you.
> 
> Bennett hydraulic tabs are bullet-proof. No personal experience with the electric versions, though, and would wonder about the durability and effectiveness of electric tabs the size you're describing.


I agree!
I think sponsons will be better than tabs if you could only choose one or the other but sponsons and electric tabs would be even better for adjusting ride on the fly. I was discussing this idea with boatbrains the other afternoon...have sponsons fabbed up parallel with the pad and have them welded on 3/8” above the bottom of transom so some 3/8” plate could be welded to the bottom of the pods and drilled and tapped to accept the trim tab hinges and you could have essentially flush mounted trim tabs that don’t stick out much more than the rear of the sponsons where the actuator is mounted. The tapped plate is to eliminate penetrating the sponson to fasten the tabs...Just an idea. The further back the tabs are the more leverage they will have to adjust the ride, that’s why Morejohn never added recessed tabs like my Maverick has. I like my recessed tabs but on bigger hulls you can get away with smaller tabs if they are transom mount and not flush mount.


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## GitchaPull (Oct 22, 2018)

I have heard of some guys that pods did not fix their running attitude/issues so they either beat a hook in the bottom of the pods with a mallet or used epoxy to make hook along the edge of the transom. Those were not attractive choices for me. OP's welded on tabs look much better.
I considered smart tabs but bending the small plates welded to my transom helped enough to get a little positive trim at WOT. I'm satisfied for now with what it is.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

All, u not gonna believe this: got the porpoising in check. 12 degree down on the 10x10 tabs n all is well. 39.6 gps @ 5600/5800. Able to get 6200 but tooo much slippage 38/39 gps with trim high. Need to get a prop more cup n little less pitch as was just me n 3/4 tank gas. Prop is usable but need a 15/16 pitch prop n cupping. Revisit engine height after a better prop.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Sweet! That’s a lot of angle on the tabs but if it works I’d leave it. You might load the boat down like you will typically fish and fill the tank with gas and see what she runs like.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Now I have a baseline to start prop sizing. Not enough cup for trimmed out settings n loss of speed from 5900 to 6200. Best speed was 39.6 @ 5600/5800. Very rough in the river today, lot a wind.
My first 4 stroke n not bad, might keep it if I can get all performance issues worked out.


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## Guest (Nov 4, 2018)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Sweet! That’s a lot of angle on the tabs but if it works I’d leave it. You might load the boat down like you will typically fish and fill the tank with gas and see what she runs like.


Very sound advise!


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Latest test


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## Guest (Nov 5, 2018)

So we’ve all made some comments about the tab angle, I just wanted to touch on the subject a little. NBLO said the boat is indeed popping up on the pad. With that statement, if you look at the bottom shape on page two you will see that even with the tabs at this angle there is very little tab in the water. Wedges on the hull bottom would have worked as some suggested, getting the correct size and angle would have been a big challange though!
Also, take note of the engine height here. It is way up compaired to “normal” thinking, in my experience a “padded” hull runs well with the motor up and back! The pad is actually splitting air and giving the prop a cleaner apron of water that a v or flat bottom.
Hope this clears up why I kept saying go higher, go higher!


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## Fenceman (Sep 23, 2018)

Boatbrains said:


> So we’ve all made some comments about the tab angle, I just wanted to touch on the subject a little. NBLO said the boat is indeed popping up on the pad. With that statement, if you look at the bottom shape on page two you will see that even with the tabs at this angle there is very little tab in the water. Wedges on the hull bottom would have worked as some suggested, getting the correct size and angle would have been a big challange though!
> Also, take note of the engine height here. It is way up compaired to “normal” thinking, in my experience a “padded” hull runs well with the motor up and back! The pad is actually splitting air and giving the prop a cleaner apron of water that a v or flat bottom.
> Hope this clears up why I kept saying go higher, go higher!


You said it better than I could, but that’s why my mind had a pair of pods on that rascal. Further away from the transom should get back into some water...at least in my very thin brain they do. Most importantly, he’s going fishing.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Boatbrains said:


> So we’ve all made some comments about the tab angle, I just wanted to touch on the subject a little. NBLO said the boat is indeed popping up on the pad. With that statement, if you look at the bottom shape on page two you will see that even with the tabs at this angle there is very little tab in the water. Wedges on the hull bottom would have worked as some suggested, getting the correct size and angle would have been a big challange though!
> Also, take note of the engine height here. It is way up compaired to “normal” thinking, in my experience a “padded” hull runs well with the motor up and back! The pad is actually splitting air and giving the prop a cleaner apron of water that a v or flat bottom.
> Hope this clears up why I kept saying go higher, go higher!


And like we were discussing it looks like his hull is flat at the bow then transitions into a pad with some deadrise where the traditional hulls are either some deadrise at the bow transitioning to a flat stern or deadrise the whole way. With the flat bow and deadrise at the stern the bow wants to lift and stern squat a little. With deadrise at the bow and flat at stern the stern wants to lift. Who knows, I’m just killing time at work thinking about fishing and boats...let’s see what NBLO comes up with next run.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Prop time, now have to either modify my existing prop r buy a lower pitch version to put me in the power band aka 6000/6300 to make 70 4 stroke hp....
Found a 14" pitch prop to try out.
Some one mentioned small wedges on both sides at the transom, I think my hoog hornet 16'8" had wedges molded in.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Mechanic loaned me a power tech scd3r17ym90 Propeller, I ran it in the river n it turned 6300+ rpm no ventilation issues at 4.5" high on transom. Only issue I didn't have my GPS with me, so looks like f70la will turn scd vs red prop + 500/700 more rpm. Smaller blades n diameter..


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Anyone with a PT 17scd3r ym90 want to get rid of? Ready to pull d trigger on one.


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## LowHydrogen (Dec 31, 2015)

Nice man, glad you got it going your way! I learned a lot from this thread, everything isn't always as straight fwd as it seems. You need to start taking a rod or two with you on the prop experiment runs...


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

LowHydrogen said:


> Nice man, glad you got it going your way! I learned a lot from this thread, everything isn't always as straight fwd as it seems. You need to start taking a rod or two with you on the prop experiment runs...


It's in the upper 30's now with a NW wind, have to let the sun get up.
Going today n have trolling motor base mount reinforcement welded on. 1/8" deck where I have the base plate mounted is tin canning a little, n so add a piece of 1/4" n drill n tap d base down.
This boat like fine wine, won't be done before it's time.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Propeller on order now, scd3r17 ym90, new Trolling motor mount on order, welding reinforcing pad under birdsall trolling motor mount. That should take care of nearly all items of completion.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)




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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

My modified trolling motor bracket. New prop did a touch better 40 mph gps, lowered engine 1/2" to 4"+/-. Still testing. Now the GPS crapped out, won't boot up. 2/3 months old, this boat is like beating a dead horse. New casters for jack stand as pushing 2000# up hill might have started another hernia on other side. Lots easier to push/pull. GPS issue was the brightness off setting, all is good now.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Newest issue is a gauge to monitor batteries condition, as I can't seem to buy batteries that will hold a charge. My genius dual battery charger shows my new crank battery is not fully charged. N so I need to find the problem?


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> Newest issue is a gauge to monitor batteries condition, as I can't seem to buy batteries that will hold a charge. My genius dual battery charger shows my new crank battery is not fully charged. N so I need to find the problem?


If the battery is below a certain voltage the Noco chargers won’t charge them. What kind of batteries do you have?
Not nitpicking but that trolling motor wire is going to chafe around where it exits the deck. I’d install a BatterySaver trolling motor plug there.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> If the battery is below a certain voltage the Noco chargers won’t charge them. What kind of batteries do you have?
> Not nitpicking but that trolling motor wire is going to chafe around where it exits the deck. I’d install a BatterySaver trolling motor plug there.


So if I disconnect the trolling motor to battery connection it may charge? Battery is a local shop variety as this was supposed to be a retirement budget version. I will view the wire at deck penetration tomorrow before I return d battery. Now after thinking about it this is the boat power battery not trolling motor.


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## Guest (Dec 31, 2018)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> So if I disconnect the trolling motor to battery connection it may charge? Battery is a local shop variety as this was supposed to be a retirement budget version. I will view the wire at deck penetration tomorrow before I return d battery. Now after thinking about it this is the boat power battery not trolling motor.


Do you know the voltage of the battery? If not check with a multi meter or load tester if you have one. I use a big a$$ carbon pile load tester for most battery/charging diagnostics. Sucker will suck a battery down in a hurry if you aren’t carefull though!


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Boatbrains said:


> Do you know the voltage of the battery? If not check with a multi meter or load tester if you have one. I use a big a$$ carbon pile load tester for most battery/charging diagnostics. Sucker will suck a battery down in a hurry if you aren’t carefull though!


I was watching the charger lights n it signals if it's green charged or red charging or not per specification blinking. The battery charge shows red, still charging n never to green?
Checked fuses n r good? Thanks all for ur help, bringing battery back today. Brought battery back to dealer n it was perfect, brought it back home n started my efi 150 v6 with no problem. Reinstalling it in the 18x60 uncle j flat, will watch charger issues now...


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> I was watching the charger lights n it signals if it's green charged or red charging or not per specification blinking. The battery charge shows red, still charging n never to green?


My Noco 7200 has indicators for 25,50,75 and 100% charged. How long are you leaving the charger on it? Does 25% blink or stay solid red? Are you on the correct battery charging mode? I run Optima red tops in my diesel and one Optima blue in my boat. If any of them get below 12 volts the charger won’t charge them. I have to stick another fully charged battery in line with jumper cables from positives to negatives in a series and charger leads on the fresh battery for one hour to fool the charger into charging through the good battery. After one hour remove jumper cables and charge straight to the battery that was initially below 12 volts and leave until fully charged. 
Man you have hell with stuff on this boat!!! I hope we can help.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Well I used the battery to crank my 2.5 efi 150 merc n then reinstalled in 18x60 flat, reconnected to charger all night n all is well, both gauges are green now. Tightened all connections again?


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Might have had a loose terminal or charger not on tight.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

All is good now....


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## BowhunterRN (Sep 28, 2017)

Really like this setup. I had a lot of the same issues you are describing with my Alweld 1448 with the manual welded on trim tabs. I went with the Bennett SLT tabs with good results. Atlas microjacker and power tech SRA3 prop gave me the best results. If you don’t mind, PM me with what this setup cost you to get built. I really admire Uncle J’s work. Walk around gunnels are rare to see on aluminum skiffs.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Base price was $5000., additional options were $2000. I felt like a Florida skiff builder wouldn't build a custom one off for double the price. And so I went with a plate flat n no gel coat, $20. Ace hwd paint finished n non skid.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Nearly finished with my 2014 Yamaha f70la refurbishment, 1000 hour maintance procedure, cam belt, water pump kit, fuel filter element, thermostat, engine oil change n filter, lower unit oil change, spark plugs, flushing cooling system with corrosion remover treatment. Did I miss anything?
Hopefully I can run it for a while n not have too many issues, my first 4 stroke engine...
All of 1000 hour maintance performed. Now if the weather will warm up above freezing.


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## 1gunner (Dec 29, 2014)

How about an update on this rig with some pics? I’m thinking on an Uncle J 1956 or 1960.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

What information would u like as I have it stored in a lift n been fishing about 5 trips. Gas mileage has been unbelievably good as I check aka fillup after 2 trips. $20.00 @ $3.00 gallon 93 octane is 6+ gallons. Usually I cruise at 3500/4500 rpm, 23gps/29gps. Hasn't used any oil so far n check each trip. So far I am able to fish same areas that the spear glades x floated n ran in. Impressive performance n hard turns don't slide. Feel free to contact for more information. Only negative issue is my prop is tooo much pitch n shoulda bought the 16" pitch.....only running 36/37/38 with loaded up..


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## 1gunner (Dec 29, 2014)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> What information would u like as I have it stored in a lift n been fishing about 5 trips. Gas mileage has been unbelievably good as I check aka fillup after 2 trips. $20.00 @ $3.00 gallon 93 octane is 6+ gallons. Usually I cruise at 3500/4500 rpm, 23gps/29gps. Hasn't used any oil so far n check each trip. So far I am able to fish same areas that the spear glades x floated n ran in. Impressive performance n hard turns don't slide. Feel free to contact for more information. Only negative issue is my prop is tooo much pitch n shoulda bought the 16" pitch.....


So what is your draft with full fuel and a decent load? Is there anything you would have done differently as far as the design/layout?


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

1gunner said:


> How about an update on this rig with some pics? I’m thinking on an Uncle J 1956 or 1960.


The 1960 was the same price as 1860, I think he said 19'-6," was the same as well...


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## 1gunner (Dec 29, 2014)

Yeah I’m leaning towards the 1960 with a 90.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

1gunner said:


> So what is your draft with full fuel and a decent load? Is there anything you would have done differently as far as the design/layout?


I like the boat as it is but would widen front hatch to match rear hatch n have wiring rings added in bow as well. If ur going to try polin 22" sides r too high maybe u decide ur height first. His paint tooo expensive, trailer tooo expensive, his rigging is good. Rear hatch needs drain trough or tube to work properly. Fab console longer than 12×12, had to add 6×6 for GPS/f2f...i had him install 17 gallon tank, have him level it as mine not level. Draft looks about the same as glades 4/6"...transducer channel bracket added... Trim tabs maybe...


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

1gunner said:


> Yeah I’m leaning towards the 1960 with a 90.


2 stroke 90?, as d 4 stokes r + 100# extra. Look at merc 115 4 stroke it's a bear 2.1 litres....350#+/- that will be my replacement.


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## 1gunner (Dec 29, 2014)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> 2 stroke 90?, as d 4 stokes r + 100# extra. Look at merc 115 4 stroke it's a bear 2.1 litres....350#+/- that will be my replacement.


Wow! That draft is crazy!!!! The Merc 115 command thrust is my other option. I’m trying to figure out if it’s worth the extra $.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Place in Tennessee sells for cheap jaco, calculate the draft with the computer


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## 1gunner (Dec 29, 2014)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> Place in Tennessee sells for cheap jaco, calculate the draft with the computer


Where’s this place in Tennessee???


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

1gunner said:


> Where’s this place in Tennessee???


Do an Internet search: jaco mercury outboard


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## 1gunner (Dec 29, 2014)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> Do an Internet search: jaco mercury outboard


I got a quote from Jaco today. Great prices! Looks like I’m going that route. How about that Owens trailer underneath your rig? How did that compare in price to the Diamond City trailer?


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

1gunner said:


> I got a quote from Jaco today. Great prices! Looks like I’m going that route. How about that Owens trailer underneath your rig? How did that compare in price to the Diamond City trailer?


Call owens n sons n tell him u spoke with me, I like their trailer as my other one is 1987 model n still going strong. Owen's n sons was $2200.00, diamond city was $2600.00. I had spare, with hub n bearing mount. Drive ons with raised lights. He also has plastic covers over the bunks, can launch one handed. Is a dry launched trailer. Need dual wheel Jack stand. If u plan on keeping trailer for a long time, might consider the replaceable spindle option.


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