# 1967 super skeeter build



## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

Hey everyone, Here is pics of my 1967 Super Skeeter rebuild. I've had to stop for several reasons but slowly continued to build it when I can.  Enjoy,

When I purchased her she had major damage. It had a tree growing through the middle of the boat, a torpedo hole in the hull, cracked side rail, The transome was totally rotten, and the stringers bad. This was one of the first commercial bass boats sold to the public. It's like a 57 chevy. You can't just trash it. 






































Here is what I'm aiming for:



Even tho I've taken a long time to get where I'm at now, I'm still happy of how it has turned out so far.
Now, Here is what I plan on in the future,
   All the PVC will be covered with 2 matt and 1708 to make the stringers.
   The bottom has to be repaired IE cracks and damage but I'm planing on putting some type of coating like Ryno coating so the bottom won't get messed up from scratches.
   I'll put a 35 hp but this thing was ran with a 50 hp 2 stroke back in the 60's.

Enjoy and Happy New year.


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## joeeth (Nov 18, 2013)

There is something similar to this for sale in Chattanooga. Do you think it will run shallow?


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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

Yes, the hull is only 4 inches high before the upword angle.


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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

Hello everyone,
   I've had several people PM me about my Supper Skeeter. It has been a while since I did any rebuilds to the boat. I have finely added my stringers. The stiffness is great. Here is what I've done so far.

1. Sanded down the old paint. WOW alot of grinding.
2. Replaced the transome.
3. Glassed and installed 2 bulkheads
4. Installed my pvc chase / stringers 
5. Glassed in 1 layer of matt and 1708.

Now, I need to sand down the ruff ends and flip it over to repair the hull. I have a gap between the cap and hull that needs to be filled. There are several things the hull will need until I'm happy with it. But, I'll just keep chugging along singing a song  LA LA LA LA!!!! any way here are some more pics of my glassed stringers / PVC Chase. In the pictures the center stringer will be for the fuel line, the port sill be for the electrical lines. The one on the starboard side will be an extra chase. 


http://s1018.photobucket.com/user/muddminnow/media/skeeter35_zpsb76e6a7e.jpg.html]







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## 'Nano-Skiff' (Aug 27, 2012)

Looks really good Hunter! Can't wait to see it finished. I'll have to head your way for a ride!


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## Gramps (Nov 1, 2007)

Wow, that's quite the project you have going there, thanks for sharing!

Nice looking shop you have there, are you in the boat building/repair business?


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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

Nano-skff,  Any time just pack a lunch,
Gramps, Thanks,  It has been a great stress relief to me. I'll be happy when I finish it and catch my first fish. 

The shop is a friend of mine. He is OV Orol at B&B Boats in Orlando Fla. He has been building and repairing boats since 1971. He has been a God send in helping me repairing this. When I first brought it to him and said I want to fix it, He looked it over and explained how difficult task it would be.  Especially with my lack of knowledge with boat building. From a peice of junk to where it sits now is pruff of his knowlege and help twords my project.
  OV is a good and kind person and makes great boats. Some of the boats he has built is called Fly Craft F18SS, Fly Craft Bay Stalker and Mosquito Bay Skiff, Buzz, Buzz Light and the Buzz Light XTR. If I wanted to have a boat built He would be the only choice for me because he understands how important each boat is comming from his business  and entering into a new boat owner family.


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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

Hello everyone,
   Here is my latest build pics for my Super Skeeter. I added closed cell foam I got free. But, I need to do several things

1. Attach the foam with some kind of glue that will not produce any heat when it chemically bonds. 

2. Attaching the floor

I'm thinking about using 1/4" plywood for the flooring in my Skeeter and glass it top and bottom two times each. Usually 1/2" is used but the foam and fiberglass stringers should keep it from flexing. 

Reasons why I'm thinking of using wood vs Nida core is 
1. I can't screw down anything to the Nida Core flooring to hold something strong. 
2. The cost of wood and glass is cheaper and the weight should not be much different.
3. Products availability.

Here are the latest pics.




I'll post the rest after my new computer finishes uploading them to photobucket


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Great build mudd!

Where are you going to put the foam as that might dictate how it gets mounted?


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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

Ok, I think I've got it now.

Here are the pic


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

A couple observations:
There is a plastic film on that foam you need to take off before anything will stick to it.

When you add the floor you will get condensation in the space as 100% of the space is not filled- you should add some weep holes.

The way you have it laid out is fine- I would not even bother with glue as the floor will hold it in place well enough.

Looking back at your other pics it looks like you might be leaving more space above the sole. If that is the case then waterproof construction adhesive will work.

Explain your plans a little more.


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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

Hey Duck,
   Here it my plans  I think
The foam would be glued down to the hull with the Mastic (water proof stuff) and the spacing between the foam and fiberglass would be filled with the mastic stuff as well. This would hold down the foam but also seal any voids between the hull and flooring.

1. Foam board glued down and voids filled with water proof stuff called Mastic.

2. The flooring 1/4" plywood glassed both sides 2 times matt.

3. attaching the floor to hull and glassing it in.

What do you think?


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## joeeth (Nov 18, 2013)

> A couple observations:
> There is a plastic film on that foam you need to take off before anything will stick to it.
> 
> When you add the floor you will get condensation in the space as 100% of the space is not filled- you should add some weep holes.
> ...


I constantly find myself amazed at how knowledgeable everyone is on this forum. That is the reason I come here everyday. 

Cool build and I love seeing guys pitch in to make sure each boat is as great as it could be.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

On my last few builds I have used 3/8" ply covered with 6oz cloth on both sides for the floor and decks and they work great. 

I'm not 100%, but if you do the math you might find it will weigh and cost less then 1/4" with multiple layers of mat.


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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

I never thought about 3/8 ply. sounds like a better solution FC. Thanks,


i'm thinking of using plywood because I can screw down things like the cooler mounts and they won't move around. FC do you have a problem with this happening on the 3/8 ply?


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

It might be ok, definitely better off then 1/4". I always use backing plates, or I glass blocks to the floors surface to mount things to. Any time you screw directly into and penetrate a sealed compartment you are pretty much guaranteed to get a leak eventually.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

1. Foam board glued down and voids filled with water proof stuff called Mastic.

No. Glue it down if you want - not necessary. Don't waste the time and money filling the voids with mastic...it will create hard spots and you may shorten the hulls lifespan. 

2. The flooring 1/4" plywood glassed both sides 2 times matt. 

Again, weight. You do not need glass on the bottom because it will not be subject to abrasion. FC had the right idea- 3/8". Couple reasons: 1) by the time you glass 1/4 you have added just about as much weight as the 3/8 is already and 2) that weight cost you an extra $100.

Coat the bottom and all sides with epoxy before gluing down to seal it. Then install and work on the top after it is installed. Use low viscosity lay-up epoxy with 1208 0/90 and you will have a built in non-skid floor. 

3. attaching the floor to hull and glassing it in.

Since you already have a nice grid system and it looks like the foam is taller than your grid you will need to build up the pipes. Rip some plywood and glue it to the top of the pipes so they are level with the foam. The foam will support your floor between the pipes.

FC cautioned about water intrusion and he is right. Plan your layout before you glue everything down. Then mount some more wood under the floor where you plan to screw to - it will definitely keep more water out as your mounting screws can be limited so they don't go through the extra wood. Also over drill the screw holes and fill with epoxy and then re-drill to the screw size.


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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

Thanks for the help guys. I've been away for some time on personal business. 

DuckNut: I didn't think about the mastic getting hard and making an issue with the fiberglass. I'll just fill up the voids with extra pcs of foam. 

The foam board and the fiberglass/pvc stringers (for the most part align very close to level. I think it is a good idea to glass in some wood over the stringers to help with mounting the floor down. 

FC: The water from condensation or screw intrusion leaks that will get in is a real possibility. Here is what I was thinking about,

1. Drilling little venting holes on the bow side of each pvc / stringers that runs from port to starboard. I think I just need the holes at the rear corner on the starboard side of each section. Now I'm confused HA HA HA. 

I'm going to sit on the starboard side at the stern tilting the boat to starboard and lifting the bow. Now imagine where I should put my holes. My drain plug is going on the starboard side of the transom. This will have an area to catch water to bail out with the pump. 
Hope this helps... 

Here is another thought:

Glass in wood for the stringers, ditch the blue foam, fill the spacing between the glass stringers with the 2 part foam, cut with a hot wire, level with the stringer wood glassed in.

In doing all this, do I still need to put in venting holes?


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

> fill the spacing between the glass stringers with the 2 part foam, cut with a hot wire


Careful...toxic gases when cut with hot wire. Just buy a 99 cent spiral wrapped guitar string and use it like a saw.

The less empty space, the longer it takes to condensate, so your plan B is a better option.



> I think it is a good idea to glass in some wood over the stringers to help with mounting the floor down.


Don't waste your time. Just mix up lots of thickened epoxy and make a bigger pile on the low spots and put the floor in.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

I agree, I don't think a hot wire is suitable for 2-part foam. It trims easily though, maybe an electric knife/turkey carver could help.

Here is the way I see things, either the void spaces need to be completely sealed, or completely unsealed. I'm not a fan of having weep holes cause to me it just means I've guaranteed to have water sitting in places I do not want.

If you leave it unsealed then the foam just needs to be sort of secured off the floor a bit or have a channel so water can move past it. I am not a fan of this, but it does work.

Or you can fill and seal the compartments, but you must make sure they are filled as much as possible and completely sealed. Think of boats like boston whalers, or carolina skiffs, these are great boats that have filled and sealed areas. These boats will last a very long time without any issues, as long as some drill crazy dinkus doesn't try screwing anything into the floors improperly. Condensation can build in void spaces, but if you pack the void with foam then the condensation has minimal, if any, effects. 

Worst thing you can do is drill into a sealed area. Plan ahead and add pucks. Then drill, fill, drill, and seal. I'll add some quick picks of what I mean if I get a few minutes here.


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## tomahawk (Mar 9, 2012)

I used one of these because I had it. It worked pretty good.

http://www.lowes.com/pd_471904-295-DESAW_0__?productId=50084020&Ntt=


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

This is just my opinion, but this is how I see things when talking about compartments and void spaces, filled or not.


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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

Hello all,
   I've been busy making a living and put this on the back burner. In the mean time, the wheels have been turning and smoke coming from my head about how to encapsulate closed cell foam with fiberglass and resin without melting the foam. I started making test models and came to the conclusion that by using something called Mastic from the air conditioning community, I could paint the foam (all around the whole piece) with mastic, add the mastic to the floor filling any possible voids. This will glue the foam down to the hull, fill any gaps, and will allow me to have a false floor, closed cell foam filling the voids, providing flotation for the boat and I can glass over the mastic without damaging (melting) any of the foam. The mastic is used in the A/C world to seal the fiberglass duct board which is used to build plenums and air ducts in residential and commercial construction.  

I contacted the manufacture of the Mastic product. They said the mastic is not water proof. It was water resistant. They said "if the water sat on the product, in time the dried mastic would dissolve.  (Polyurethane resin that boats are built of is not water proof. It is water resistant.) Even though the product "mastic" was not invented for this application, I believe I can still use it and make it work.

Now, if it works, anyone wanting closed cell foam in their boat has an option to the 2 part foam. 

This has several advantages:

1. The closed cell foam sheets won't grow and bust out decking.
2. No holes to cut to pour the 2 part foam.
3. The supplies are at local stores like Home Depot, Lowes, and any A/C suppliers like Johnstone, Blacks supply, ect...
4. expense 1 gal of Mastic $25.00.  Closed cell foam ?

Disadvantages... I can't think of any right now but if anyone can please voice their thoughts here.   

I'll send pics soon.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

well since no one else jumped in guess I'll add my $0.02. I know you are always looking for low cost alternatives, but this is pretty bad. Mastic has no place in a boat. It will absorb water and is fairly heavy. I just don't see any advantage to using the stuff.
If you want to glass over foam just use epoxy, it won't melt any type of foam. You could easily pour the foam, cut it level and use a coat or 2 of epoxy to seal it before bonding down the floor with thickened epoxy. Plus you can get a quart kit for around the same price as the mastic adhesive, which is more then enough to do your boat.

If you just don't want to use 2-part pourable foam then use sheets of styrofoam like I did on my last project. Just cut then so they fit fairly snug and the floor will hold them in place.


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## CurtisWright (May 9, 2012)

My $0.02 on a professional repair. Please don't chastise me. This is just what I would do. Grind out everything you have put in there. Prep the floor and put down a layer of 1708 biaxial and a 3/4 oz Matt. Before this cures, saturate the scored side of some 3/4" divynal ( already cut to fit perfectly in your boat) with resin and bed it down into the Matt. Roll the top of the core to remove as much air as possible. If you have bagging materials then vacuum bag the core down. If not cover the repair with a big tarp and shovel about 3" of sand over the top of it to hold it down while it cures. You can buy sacks of playground sand for 3$ at lowes. About 2-300lbs should do the trick.

Let it cure and then grind all the high spots and burrs down and lay 2 layers of 1708 biaxial over the top and up the sides if you want some extra thickness there. 

Your done now and the boat will be strong and last forever.

What your building now will likely be waterlogged and need re work in about 5 yeas.


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## trplsevenz (Oct 29, 2012)

Cwright is on the money. The new cored floor will be your integral stringer system. You will be money ahead to do this one time. There is a reason that a/c mastic is not marketed for boat building.


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