# New (to me) skiff & hull crack. How bad is it?



## Texan556 (Jul 21, 2018)

So I just brought home a 1995 hobie power skiff (manufactured by jetcraft). Everything looked solid while making the purchase. I drag it home, get some rain (she leaks a little into the hull). Needs new rubber boot for the control cables under the console & the console needs to be resealed to the deck. Finally squeezed it into the garage & I notice a drop of water hanging under the hull. Seemed like a weird place so I crawl under & find a hair line crack where the water is coming from. It’s coming out very slowly, maybe 10 min before a drop forms. And I’m pretty much a newbie when it comes to boat repairs, so I’m concerned. Mainly b/c it’s all the way through. Do I need to address this immediately? Or run it for a while & watch the crack? I was hoping to get a couple years out of her before putting her in the shop, the gel coat on the deck has some cracking & other little imperfections that I wanted to address over time.


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## Texan556 (Jul 21, 2018)




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## Guest (Aug 6, 2018)

If she’s leaking from the bottom, I strongly reccomend gettin it fixed. Water will force it’s way in everytime the boat is in the water and more when under power!


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## Texan556 (Jul 21, 2018)

Boatbrains said:


> If she’s leaking from the bottom, I strongly reccomend gettin it fixed. Water will force it’s way in everytime the boat is in the water and more when under power!


Yeah that’s exactly what I was thinking, just looking for more knowledgeable opinions than my own lol. Any idea on what something like this is going to cost me?


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## Guest (Aug 6, 2018)

Tough to put a price on it. Glass man is probably gonna want to put a grinder to it before he gives an estimate. That small crack could have 5-6” damage around it if it was ran like that. Again, tough to say from a photo. But, do get it looked at.


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## Guest (Aug 6, 2018)

If you absolutly have to go fishen, you could try to spooge some marine tex in there, but that would only be a temporary thing!


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## Texan556 (Jul 21, 2018)

Boatbrains said:


> Tough to put a price on it. Glass man is probably gonna want to put a grinder to it before he gives an estimate. That small crack could have 5-6” damage around it if it was ran like that. Again, tough to say from a photo. But, do get it looked at.


I understand, was hoping for a ball park estimate. I just blew everything I had saved up on buying the boat. So needless to say I’m disappointed that I have to get it worked on before I can go fish. Looks to be that this section of the hull has had previous repair. There’s an off colored section about 10x10in around where the crack is.


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## Guest (Aug 6, 2018)

Your a little far away or I’d offer a hand!


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## Texan556 (Jul 21, 2018)

Boatbrains said:


> Your a little far away or I’d offer a hand!


If I’d have know I would have kept on driving south from Panama City when I picked it up but thanks, maybe someone local wants to help out a brother!


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

I need some help to make sense of the pictures:

The first two photos are of a water drop and not a silver fastener, correct?

Where is the water forming, is it near the bow's v section or the transom?


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## Guest (Aug 6, 2018)

Yobata, I think I smell what your cookin? I tried to zoom in, if you look right below the water drop in this pick it appears to be a crack? I am assuming this is where the op’s water is coming from.


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## Texan556 (Jul 21, 2018)

yobata said:


> I need some help to make sense of the pictures:
> 
> The first two photos are of a water drop and not a silver fastener, correct?
> 
> Where is the water forming, is it near the bow's v section or the transom?


It’s a water drop, I wiped it clean for the third pic. And it’s directly under the console.


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## Texan556 (Jul 21, 2018)

Boatbrains said:


> View attachment 36314
> 
> Yobata, I think I smell what your cookin? I tried to zoom in, if you look right below the water drop in this pick it appears to be a crack? I am assuming this is where the op’s water is coming from.


And yes the crack is where the water drip is coming from. It flexes ever so slightly to right side of the crack & squeezes out moisture. Assuming that it only flexes to the one side since that’s the direction of water flow under power. And that tells me it’s starting to deliaminate the outer coat.


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## Guest (Aug 6, 2018)

Can you access it from the inside?


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## Texan556 (Jul 21, 2018)

Boatbrains said:


> Can you access it from the inside?


Not without cutting an access hatch. There’s only a 3”ish hole for the cables to run through.


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## Guest (Aug 6, 2018)

Given the fact that there appears to be multiple cracks, you’ll be better off repairing from the inside! An outside in repair is doable but I don’t reccomend it. Something has caused a week spot there, could be a factory flaw and a bulkhead added migh stop it from happening again. Could be a busted loose bulkhead in there? Previous owner might have smacked something hard? Won’t know until ya get in there.


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## Texan556 (Jul 21, 2018)

Boatbrains said:


> Given the fact that there appears to be multiple cracks, you’ll be better off repairing from the inside! An outside in repair is doable but I don’t reccomend it. Something has caused a week spot there, could be a factory flaw and a bulkhead added migh stop it from happening again. Could be a busted loose bulkhead in there? Previous owner might have smacked something hard? Won’t know until ya get in there.


Looks like I’m up shit creek without a paddle, for a while. That doesn’t sound like a cheap fix and I’m tapped out on cash.


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## Guest (Aug 6, 2018)

Pack some marine tex in there and go fishen brother. Just check the spot when you get back each trip. If it looks like it’s dripping again, grind out the old putty and pack some more in until you can get it repaired properly. It might not be as bad as I made it sound either, internet phots can be misleading when it comes to this sort of thing. Take it to a glass guy and let him check it out before you get too bummed.


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## Texan556 (Jul 21, 2018)

Boatbrains said:


> Pack some marine tex in there and go fishen brother. Just check the spot when you get back each trip. If it looks like it’s dripping again, grind out the old putty and pack some more in until you can get it repaired properly. It might not be as bad as I made it sound either, internet phots can be misleading when it comes to this sort of thing. Take it to a glass guy and let him check it out before you get too bummed.


Oh I’m bummed either way. It needs to be addressed properly and sooner than later. Thought I had a solid hull w/ no leaks like I was told. And on a temporary fix I’m not comfortable running it across waters I want to fish. A 2 ft chop is only going to make the cracks get worse.


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## Guest (Aug 6, 2018)

I understand that!


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## Salt of the Water (Feb 26, 2018)

Go see George at South Texas boatworks in Pearland if you feel like you have to take it to a shop. He does good work at very reasonable prices. Without seeing the inside, I'd guess <$500 to get this patched up on the bottom of the hull and the deck over the top of it repaired.

Or if you have some mechanical aptitude, cut it open and fix it yourself. Round deck plates make decent cheap access hatches. 

Required tools:

Angle grinder
Sander (if you want it to look decent when you're done)
A dremel would help in some of the tight spots but if you don't have one I wouldn't go get one
Epoxy resin - I'd get a gallon so you have some left over for any future repairs, or any through deck holes you want to make as you make the boat your own. 
http://www.uscomposites.com/epoxy.html#epoxhard *EPOX-635314*

Fiberglass cloth (I'd use multiple layers of 6oz woven, but you could go with a thicker biaxial and use less layers)
chip brushes or a squeegee to spread epoxy
A deck access plate and stainless fasteners, or some core to re-build wherever you cut away the deck.


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## jmrodandgun (Sep 20, 2013)

Are these the hulls that have all the balsa wood in them?


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## Texan556 (Jul 21, 2018)

jmrodandgun said:


> Are these the hulls that have all the balsa wood in them?


From all the research I’ve done the jetcraft did not have the balsa wood transom. But I can’t find anything that tells me what was used. The transom feels solid.


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## Texan556 (Jul 21, 2018)

Salt of the Water said:


> Go see George at South Texas boatworks in Pearland if you feel like you have to take it to a shop. He does good work at very reasonable prices. Without seeing the inside, I'd guess <$500 to get this patched up on the bottom of the hull and the deck over the top of it repaired.
> 
> Or if you have some mechanical aptitude, cut it open and fix it yourself. Round deck plates make decent cheap access hatches.
> 
> ...


I have the mechanical aptitude and most of the tools. But I’ve never done any fiberglass repair and not so sure I want to dive in head first on the hull. Pearland is a bit of a drive for me, it may be worth it if I can’t find some good recommendations closer. Northwest Fiberglass Inc is right around the corner from my house.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Texan556 said:


> From all the research I’ve done the jetcraft did not have the balsa wood transom. But I can’t find anything that tells me what was used. The transom feels solid.


I think he was referring to if they used balsa as a core to stiffen the hull more than the transom as the crack is in the hull. If they did then there is more work that will be needed.

Any fiberglass repair joint can fix this. The crack is a simple fix, what may be hiding on the inside will be the question.


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## Texan556 (Jul 21, 2018)

DuckNut said:


> I think he was referring to if they used balsa as a core to stiffen the hull more than the transom as the crack is in the hull. If they did then there is more work that will be needed.
> 
> Any fiberglass repair joint can fix this. The crack is a simple fix, what may be hiding on the inside will be the question.


Yeah I caught that after I had replied. But from my understanding hobie only used balsa in the transom. I could be wrong, wouldn’t be the first time.


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## GullsGoneWild (Dec 16, 2014)

Texan556 said:


> View attachment 36302
> View attachment 36304
> View attachment 36306
> View attachment 36308
> So I just brought home a 1995 hobie power skiff (manufactured by jetcraft). Everything looked solid while making the purchase. I drag it home, get some rain (she leaks a little into the hull). Needs new rubber boot for the control cables under the console & the console needs to be resealed to the deck. Finally squeezed it into the garage & I notice a drop of water hanging under the hull. Seemed like a weird place so I crawl under & find a hair line crack where the water is coming from. It’s coming out very slowly, maybe 10 min before a drop forms. And I’m pretty much a newbie when it comes to boat repairs, so I’m concerned. Mainly b/c it’s all the way through. Do I need to address this immediately? Or run it for a while & watch the crack? I was hoping to get a couple years out of her before putting her in the shop, the gel coat on the deck has some cracking & other little imperfections that I wanted to address over time.


Its JMB. I haven't read the whole thread but wanted to say I hate this for you. I know how amped you were to be picking up a new sled. These guys wont steer you wrong. i'll check in with ya later in the week.


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## NativeBone (Aug 16, 2017)

@Texan556 check out some instructional videos @

https://www.youtube.com/user/boatworkstoday/videos

Designed for DIY and is legit.


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## Guest (Aug 6, 2018)

NativeBone said:


> @Texan556 check out some instructional videos @
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/user/boatworkstoday/videos
> 
> Designed for DIY and is legit.


Agreed, this guy is knowledgable and does good videos.


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## Salt of the Water (Feb 26, 2018)

The Gougeon book (free pdf) is also a great reference for working in epoxy. If you can get it open and some pictures of the extent of the damage, there's guys on here that can talk you through a layup schedule that'll have it stronger than original. 

https://www.westsystem.com/the-gougeon-brothers-on-boat-construction/


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Texan556 said:


> Yeah I caught that after I had replied. But from my understanding hobie only used balsa in the transom. I could be wrong, wouldn’t be the first time.


I would tend to agree that he hull is just glass. I have no clue about the transom.

Move the boat back on the trailer to give yourself some working room and get to work. this is an easy fix and would be a great first project as nobody can see it.


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## Texan556 (Jul 21, 2018)

DuckNut said:


> I would tend to agree that he hull is just glass. I have no clue about the transom.
> 
> Move the boat back on the trailer to give yourself some working room and get to work. this is an easy fix and would be a great first project as nobody can see it.


If the crack didn’t run all the way through I’d feel more comfortable working on it myself. However cutting an access hatch & the potential for stringer/bulkhead problems worries me. I’d rather have it fixed right the first time by people who know what they are doing. Yeah it will cost me, but at least I know I have a solid hull after.


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## jmrodandgun (Sep 20, 2013)

Are these boats filled with foam?



Texan556 said:


> However cutting an access hatch & the potential for stringer/bulkhead problems worries me


It shouldn't worry you. Worst case you take the console out and cut the hole to find a lose stringer. Take a picture and someone here could probably tell you how to fix it. At the very least you saved some labor hours for a shop to remove the console. Do as much prep work as you can while you're in there. I bet with good access to the problem area it wouldn't cost more than a couple hundred dollars to have a glass guy touch it up. You could probably cobble something together with a little help. It doesn't have to be pretty or light, it just has to be strong.


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## Texan556 (Jul 21, 2018)

jmrodandgun said:


> Are these boats filled with foam?
> 
> 
> 
> It shouldn't worry you. Worst case you take the console out and cut the hole to find a lose stringer. Take a picture and someone here could probably tell you how to fix it. At the very least you saved some labor hours for a shop to remove the console. Do as much prep work as you can while you're in there. I bet with good access to the problem area it wouldn't cost more than a couple hundred dollars to have a glass guy touch it up. You could probably cobble something together with a little help. It doesn't have to be pretty or light, it just has to be strong.


The original hobies had glassed in foam pods, but I don’t believe there was anything in the hull. I can’t find as much info about the jetcraft built hobies. 

I can easily remove the console, cutting through the deck is what worries me. I figure if I go too deep then I’m just causing further damage.


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## jmrodandgun (Sep 20, 2013)

Maybe I'm wrong but it seems to me that whatever is going on with the flexing will need to be looked at from the inside. If someone has to cut a hole it may as well be you. I'm sure someone will come along and tell you exactly how to do it but when I removed the floor of an old bass boat I just drilled a small hole to see how thick the material was and set the depth of the circular saw accordingly. Easy peasy.


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## Boneheaded (Oct 4, 2017)

The deck on my original Hobie is 1/2" foam core, with one piece 'grid" stringers if you cut the deck anywhere you may find foam. A concern could be that the leak is soaking into the foam making the boat heavier, (foam is very itchy btw) Ive cut a larger opening under the deck and dug out foam for aluminum plate to bolt console to. Another thing of concern may be that the Hobie one offs may not be built to the same quality as originals.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

guys, I'm pretty sure he doesn't want to do this himself..The asshole who sold you this boat knew about it. theirs more to this than meets the eye.


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## Boneheaded (Oct 4, 2017)

Here’s and old shot stripping my boat down. But a good idea of you’re working with when you get into the deck. Nothing to fear.


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## Texan556 (Jul 21, 2018)

Boneheaded said:


> The deck on my original Hobie is 1/2" foam core, with one piece 'grid" stringers if you cut the deck anywhere you may find foam. A concern could be that the leak is soaking into the foam making the boat heavier, (foam is very itchy btw) Ive cut a larger opening under the deck and dug out foam for aluminum plate to bolt console to. Another thing of concern may be that the Hobie one offs may not be built to the same quality as originals.


You’re right I don’t think they were built to the same standards & I was ok with that. I don’t plan on crashing the surf in 5 footers. But having the flats deck seemed like a good trade off to me. Not to mention it was a fair amount cheaper & 8 hr less of a drive than yours ;-)


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## Texan556 (Jul 21, 2018)

devrep said:


> guys, I'm pretty sure he doesn't want to do this himself..The asshole who sold you this boat knew about it. theirs more to this than meets the eye.


You’re right, I really don’t WANT to do it. Fortunately he may not be an asshole after all. Got off the phone with him a while ago and he said to get quotes & call him back. Said he’d make it right & that he’d never seen the issue, as he told me.


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## Texan556 (Jul 21, 2018)




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## Guest (Aug 6, 2018)

Texan556 said:


> View attachment 36386


Wow! If he lives up to this, this planet might just make it a few more years!!! I know it’s the right thing to do, but not many would! Good luck, hope he does come through for you!


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## RunningOnEmpty (Jun 20, 2015)

Texan556 said:


> I have the mechanical aptitude and most of the tools. But I’ve never done any fiberglass repair and not so sure I want to dive in head first on the hull. Pearland is a bit of a drive for me, it may be worth it if I can’t find some good recommendations closer. Northwest Fiberglass Inc is right around the corner from my house.


YouTube is awesome for learning this stuff. You can do it.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

glad to hear his response.


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