# 91 johnsen Re-Rebuild



## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

finally got some filling done tongiht. 








filling started








lots of filler.
tomorrow night ill get in and do some more sanding.


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## habanalure (Feb 6, 2012)

I think Johnsen boats make great polling skiffs. I love the lines.
I have one that I have been postponing to modify due to other projects.
I'll follow your post with great interest. Please keep the pics coming

Great Job!


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

well tonight didnt turn any better!!! i decided i was going to open up the back floor area to allow for better drainage and i turned up some more mold and water! so tomorrow the floor comes out!!


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## tomahawk (Mar 9, 2012)

Looks like non sealed Home Depot plywood. There is a lesson here, don't use it. Sorry about your setback.


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

after a very long day all the old floor and stringers are out. i got about half of the floor ground down hopefully a couple more hours gringing tomorrow and she'll be ready for new stringers.


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

Looks like you have a job on your hand but looks like you are doing it right! I had a Johnson Skiff once. Get little skiffs. What length is it. I actually think the Arkona used that hull for their basic plug then modified it to become the Native.

Great job and looking forward to seeing the step by step process. Keep the pics coming!


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

it is a 15'. back was pretty sore from all the work yesterday so i didn't make much progress today. :-[


> Looks like you have a job on your hand but looks like you are doing it right!  I had a Johnson Skiff once.  Get little skiffs.  What length is it.  I actually think the Arkona used that hull for their basic plug then modified it to become the Native.
> 
> Great job and looking forward to seeing the step by step process.  Keep the pics coming!


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

so i have made a TON of very little head way! so spent the last few days prepping for getting the main bulkheads in. i made some templates first out of cardboard. 

















then i transfered those templats onto some foam and left them a little large so i could really sand them to fit as perfect as i could get them. 








then i used the foam templates to trace out on my 3/4" plascore. 








then i decided i was going to add in a 1/2 piece of 2" pvc under the floor to allow drainage from the front compartment to the back. 
next i glassed the bulkhead fronts, I used 6oz biax first layer then 1 1/2oz matt over top.

























i have them right now wet out ontop of a piece of melamine. 








then i used the remaining resin to glass in my drainage tube from front to back.


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## ccolding (Feb 4, 2010)

Are you going to lay stringers between the bulkheads? Or is there a floor in already?


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

yeah once i get those two bulkheads installed im going to build stringers between them to set the floor on. i dont plan on putting putt much of a floor in the front or back other than places im going to mounth my batteries ( 1 front 1 back) and place where im going to mount my gas tank('s)


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

so i got the first side of the bulkheads glassed i think they turned out pretty well. id hoped to have both sides done by now but that darn thing called work keeps getting in the way!! lol


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

well last night i got the edges on the first side trimmed up and got the other side glassed. i had some difficulty getting the glass off the melamine board so i used some PVA on it last night. hopefully tonight i can get them trimmed up and get them installed in the boat!!!! 
















i also decided on my gel coat colors. going to do the hull in seafoam green and the decks in lite tan.


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

made some headway today. got the bulkheads installed in the boat. i used high density adhesive to bond them in. tomorrow im going to put some 6" tape in on top of my filets. pretty darn happy with how it installed and turned out today!


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

so i put 6" fiber strips from bulkhead to hull today. a few of my friends seem to be concerned that the plascore will not be strong enough for decking the way i have discussed doing it so i was hoping a few of you could chime in. currenlty i intend to use a 6oz biax on the top and botom of the plascore then a 1.5 oz chop matt on top of that. no one seems to think thats will be strong enough. i am using 1/2" plascore. anyone have any opinions/suggestions here?


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

got all of my stringer templates completed last night.


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

slowly but surely making some progress. i got all of the stringers made and ready to be installed. im going to cut my foam to go in before i install them. i boat my fuel cell and battery to go in the front and im working on getting all the templates made for front end.


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## Jared T. (Apr 13, 2014)

What size tank is that?


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

it's a 5 gallon.


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## ccolding (Feb 4, 2010)

I like it, looking good.


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## Bob_Rogers (Oct 14, 2009)

Watching this with interest as I have a 1992 factory flats edition - there's a small soft spot in the cockpit deck that will need attention someday.

What engine will you mount?


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

aaron, I didn't see any fresh layers of glass over the inside bottom and sides of the hull.  Maybe before you glass in the stringers (I know you already did the bulkheads)  glass in a layer of 1708 to all additional strenght.  Then glass in the stringers and remember to glass the underside of all your decks before you glass the decks in.   I've seen that mistake done many times.


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## Jared T. (Apr 13, 2014)

> aaron, I didn't see any fresh layers of glass over the inside bottom and sides of the hull.  Maybe before you glass in the stringers (I know you already did the bulkheads)  glass in a layer of 1708 to all additional strenght.  Then glass in the stringers and remember to glass the underside of all your decks before you glass the decks in.   I've seen that mistake done many times.


I agree with backwater for giving fresh layer of 1708.


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## NoeSmyrnaBch (Aug 19, 2013)

Saw it last night in person. Looks awesome so far. I don't know about needing a layer of 1708, it seems pretty firm as-is. Are these hulls notoriously weak?

He's off to a great start, can't wait to fish from it


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

I had one and know that they were mostly built with chop.  That 1708 bi-axle will give it more strength and stiffen up to keep it from doing that wormling effect and help keep it more puncture proof.  Plus the added resin freshens the old glass up and helps give it new life.  Once you glass that in and the stringers but before you add the deck, I would paint the inside bottom with epoxy white, including the stringers, but not up the sides where you will glass the deck to the sides.  I would also glue the underneath of the glassed deck to the top of the stringers and the top of the side chines with a resin paste made with Cabosil and the resin you use to glass with.


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## Jared T. (Apr 13, 2014)

> What engine will you mount?


If you don't mind me asking, why a 5 gallon and not something larger? I am leaning towards an 18 gallon on mine.


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

Thanks for the advice backwater i plan on taking your advice and already started in the front area. i ground up the whole front area and laid in two coats of matt up there i didn't figure i needed to go so crazy with thickness there since im not putting any real weight on the floor however im pretty pleased how bad the floor looked andhow good it looks now. i got the bulkhead made to seperate the gas tank from the battery compartment up front and i got the front bulkhead made to seperate the front storage area from the anchor well area. i made some stainless plates to bond into the floor to bolt the gas tank in. i used the high density adhesive to do the initial bond tonight im going to add some glass into it tomorrow to really secure itinto the floor. 

Jared T im only putting a 25 hp on it so 5 gallons of gas should run me around for several trips i dont know why i would need more gas than that. i used to make 2-3 trips on 6 gallons with my 70hp on my previous boat. 18 gallons of gas is a lot of weight.


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)




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## Jared T. (Apr 13, 2014)

It is a lot of weight. The plan is to not have full all the time. More so for trips in the Everglades spanning a few days and longer runs.


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

Did I see you mounted the tank in sideways? Why? Also, make sure you either paint the stainless steel brackets with resin or epoxy paint first, as well as the aluminium brackets. Then add a piece of flat rubber to go in between them. This will keep electrolysis from happening between the 2 metals, especially when saltwater is around.

Remember, for the rest of the hull if you want to add strength and not necessarily weight and added thickness, then I would go with 1708 bi-axle cloth as opposed to just mat cloth, which is nothing more than chop (low strength). It's worth the few extra bucks and you can get it in 2nd run which is cheaper and will still do you good.

Call these guys, they have the 2nd run stuff cheap (like around $6/yd+/-.

https://www.fgci.com/default.aspx


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

Thanks Backwater again!! so the brackets i made i grabbed a piece of what i thought was stainless out of my scrap pile turns out it was aluminum however i started back on it last night i am going to completely cover the brackets with resin and a large piece of glass then i bought some 1/4" rubber to give it a bit of isolation when i actually get to installing it. i figured someone would notice it was installed sideways and your right it is. i did that because of the way the filler neck comes out of the tank if i installed it in the front like it is designed the filler would have ended up right on the bow and i just didnt like/want that id rather it come out the near the back of the front deck. we fly fish so one less line trap!!! lol. i really appreciate all of the feedback and help. i am going to order some 1708 before i get into the main floor area.


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

also not sure i said it before but i am going to put in a false floor in the front to cover the battery/charger and gas tank so you wont really see the tank once im done.


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

Cool.
I'm a fly fishin fool too myself, so I know exactly what you mean by having a clean deck. You should chine in on the fly board here on microskiff. Also, I might be coming up to New Smyrna in July to do a lil fly fishing with some disabled vets. Do you belong to the fly club up there?


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

no im to embrassed to admit to anyone i fly fish! lol  i fly fish in the since that i own a fly road/reel. i actually just chucked my fly for the first time in probably 9 months the other day. i had wicked tennis elbow and couldnt do it for a while so im deff ready to get back in the slot. hopefully by july ill be on the water. i just bought a cmc trim and tilt yesterday. got a great deal on one so im super pleased now i just got to get off my you know what and get this thing done.


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

i got quite a bit done today for the first time in a week. i got the front anchorwell/hatch bulkhead put in, i got the battery well bulkhead put in, the front fuel cell/battery well supports put in for the front hatch false floor and the drainage line for the anchor well put in. also i finished getting the fuel cell mounts fileted in and then i add another piece of biax over then and the entire front floor.


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

slowly chiseling away at it. i got all of the stringers mounted to my floor template and then i cut out my foam sections for udner the floor! doesn't look like much but it was a long hot day!


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

ive been out of town working so havent really got to do to much but im hoping for a good weekend. i want to build some cedar rod holders that are also supports for the walk on gunnels. anyone have any suggestions on how to glass them or protect them and leave the beauty of the wood? i plan on using some 1" thick cedar i have.


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## tomahawk (Mar 9, 2012)

Epoxy coat with at least 3 coats and clear coat for UV protection. If you want to glass it, cover in 4 oz glass.
I tried some Raka UV epoxy with disappointing results on carbon fiber as an FYI.


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## NoeSmyrnaBch (Aug 19, 2013)

Cedar is naturally water resistant (not proof), so I think a few coats of a quality epoxy (not the stuff at Higgs) would be all you'd need. Think of all those cedar strip kayaks and boats that people build.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

If you epoxy, you will have to protect with another coating. Skip the epoxy and just use spar varnish.


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

we tried the spar on another project and we put 8 coats of it on the wood and after a year the wood was rotten so not sure how much faith i will put in it however this wood will be exposed so maybe better results. i got a lot done this weekend although it still doesn't look any different! i glued and filled in my piping from front to back, i took Backwater's advice and i put a coat of 1708 on the floor and gunnel and wow your right it really stiffened the floor up. i got my template made for my floor and got the floor cut out of plascore and got the bottom of the floor covered in 1708. i hope tongiht to get the topside done and get the stringers put in the floor. i also got my bulkheads all smoothed out so they are ready for gel coat when i get that far just seemed like a good time to get that sanding done as i hope my floor wil turn out as well/better than my other parts so there shouldt be much need to block it out. i think i am then going to transition in the back of the boat so that i can get everything in the floor area the way i want it so that i can paint/gel coat the interior before i move onto the deck.


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

anyone have any suggestions on how to make something smoothed out? by that i mean i ready about guys using visuqueen and using a spreader to smooth out the glass while its wet however everytime ive tried this not matter what i do i get wrinkles in the finished product.


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

ok well some big things tongiht first and formost i have quit using tinypics so i shouldn't have anymore screwy uploaded pics!! im going to go back and fix some of the ones that are jacked up. so finally tonight i got stringers installed in the boat!!!!! 








hopefully tomorrow ill get the other side of the floor finished. one side is glassed and looks pretty darn good i think. plus i want to paint under the floor are before i put it in.


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

finished up the stringers tonight. i got filets put in on all of them. tomorrow night i am going to tape off and pain underneath the floor area and finish glassing the floor intself.


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

well after replacing my sprinkler pump i finally got to work on the boat a little. i got the top side of the floor glassed tonight. i did two layers of 1708 i think it turned out better that anythingn else i have done i think. i found a new roller that made a huge difference in wetout. once i got that done i taped off the under floor area and put first coat of paint on it. going to try to get 3-4 coats on it before i put the floor in.


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

well i ended up helping my dad most of the day on his gheenoe so i didn't get a lot done. i got the floor pulled up and got the excess glass cut off the edges and removed all the PVA. i got the front end painted well i got two coats on it anyways. with the floor preped i hope tomorow to get the floor actually put in.


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

so i got a little work done today. i made a lot of dust i started fairing the gunnels and the area above the floor. i got the floor fit and ready to be put in tomorrow.


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

got the floor and gunnels prepped and the floor glued in!!! theres a lot of adhesive on there in the pic but that so i can fair it smooth and lay glass in to make it flow nicely and hopfully not have to fair to much there!!


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

tonight i got the gunnels covered in 407 and i got the floor area adhesive smoothed out. 

i got the glass cut for the floor to gunnel and got it installed and looking pretty good.


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## tomahawk (Mar 9, 2012)

Looking good man. You are rolling!


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## flyfshrmn82 (Oct 12, 2007)

Impressive. Can't wait to see more...


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

thanks for the props!! much needed I HATE SANDING!! after 4 long hours last night riding multiple sanders the interior area looks pretty good. i have a few more areas to work out but 95% ready for gel coat!! so couple questions. i have never used gel coat so im going to entering uncharted territory here. i intend to spray it and i believe i have a gun with big enough tip to spray it and i will of course test it before i commit it to the boat. but anyways my question is about how much fairing do i need to do. i tried to take some close up pics. i did the floor on a sheet of malamine and to the eye and mostly to the tough it looks super smooth however i see all these small round recesses and by small i mean smaller than a 32 i would say. here is a close up shot of them. 

this is the same shot but my camera is about a foot away from the deck to give you a idea how small they are. thats dust in the holes btw.


but heres the holw thing in all its sanded glory!!


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

Sweet!!! Nice work dude!!! [smiley=1-beer.gif]


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

so i am really contimplating making the decks our of devinycell rather than plascore. can anyone weigh in on if the cost is worth it i mean i realise that ill be able to finish it a lot easier well i hope anyways.


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

nothing really to show this weekend. i cut the transom down so it loooks a little more astetically pleasing to me. i finally got my mind wrapped around my layout and how i am going to do things in the rear area. i decided i am going to ad some floatation area in the back. i got the floor cleaned up from past lives and then i got the floor bad sots fillled, i got some really nice filets on the transom and tunnel so i can glass over that area soon and i smoothed out the tunnel area it was pretty rough. tomorrow night i am going to start on making my wall/bulkheads to seperate the storage area from flotation area and also get to work on making the walls for the live well.


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## Bob_Rogers (Oct 14, 2009)

Maybe I'm missing something, but how are you draining water out of the cockpit deck?


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

Bobber nope your not missing anything i havent actually put the drainage holes in yet. i will put those in as soon as i get the rear deack area sorted out. i got the rear deck/baitwell pieces into glass tonight. well i got them half glassed anways. i get the other half done tomorrow. 

here is all the pieces layed out ready for glass on my malemine sheet. 


here are a couple i took last night after i got the pieces roughed in and you can see how i cut the transom down.


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## Slingblade01 (Jun 11, 2015)

Looking forward to seeing this when you finish..Looking good


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

i got the rear area all glassed and bonded in yestereday. 


 the foam pieces are just in there to help hold everything in place. 

made a nice little piece to go in to drain the water out. 
 i didn't take a pic but that was fully glassed underneath what is now the livewell area.


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

well i have been doing a lot of little things and hitting lots of small walls. im working on getting everything plumbed and ready to go. i got my bilge pump plumbing and port drilled and test fit, i got my livewell overflow ready to go, i got my livewell overflow drain almost ready to go i have install the drill and install the thruhull tube for it tomorrow. i started to get my livewell pumps installed and hit a road block there that requires a trip to the marine store in the morning then hopefully ill get that done and get the aeriator installed pretty quickly. i got my fuel line conduit run back close to the motor so its ready for line. tomorrow i just have to finish getting my electronics area prepped and get my conduit in the back plumbed into place then i can move to the front of the boat and get more electronics plumbing installed and cut the front anchor hatch open and get my rod holder tubes installed. after lots of discussion and another person on here getting theres boat done and seeing it in the water with a 40 hp 4 stroke on it i have abandoned my desire to install sponsons on the back. i picked up a sweet deal on a poling platform that couldnt fit any better if i built it myself!!


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## erikb85 (Jun 13, 2014)

Good find there. Looks perfect for that boat.


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

So i have been working on the boat but just doesnt feel like i have got a ton done. ive got most of the wire pullled in the boat. all of the plumbing whether it be electrical, water or fuel is all prepped for installation. i got my gunnel support templates made tonight so ill start getting those prepped here soon. already have the wood i want to use planed down and ready to go. 




i also took all of the im going to say linex off the poling platform i bought. it was pretty light before but now its super light! i would like to get it powder coated anyone have any recommendations for a powder coater in the volusia county area?


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

i worked tonight on getting my wood glued up for my gunnel supports/rod holders. ended up with about 1 1/2" thick pieces of cedar. i will probably cut them out sunday. hopeing to flip the boat tomorrow and geto fixing, and repairing the bottom.


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

ok been a while but between work and well lets face it sanding is sanding doesnt ever really look like much progress however had a very big weekend. i finally got the tunnel smoothed out and flat. i got all the dents,dings worked out for the most part. got all the spider cracks out. and last but not least we have gel coat!!! so love someone to chime in here. i decided i was going to spray my gel coat i bought two harbor freight guns one HVLP and one LVLP as i saw several other posts about guys using them with good results. now the LVLP gun seemed to put the most product out and on however i mixed the stuff up at 1% and it still kicked in my gun before i got it all used and i was only mixing 16oz at a time. needless to say i ruined to guns becuase in part i was unprepared to clean them i didn't have a long enough brissel brush to clean out the LVLP and the HVLP in my opinion was just a piece of crap!!!! i read about people reducing the gel coat but i read a lot of conflicting things about that so i did not reduce it. so after throwing my hands up on the guns luckily i had a back up plan and broke out my ultra smooth rollers. didnt turn out to bad but would have looked a lot better out of the gun. so here is some finishing saning pics and gel coat as it sits

rouging the transom up getting it smoothed out. 
 

the tunnel was a mess




after lots of sanding and sanding and sanding and well you guessed it sanding finally ready for gel


tac coat of gel laid with gun


second coat rolled on



last coat of gel




so some more sanding and hopefully she will look pretty.


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## flyfshrmn82 (Oct 12, 2007)

A little trick I learned when it comes to wet sanding....  My good friend Mr. Black spray paint.  Lightly spray over the area and it will act as a visual identifier.  It will tell ya where you have already sanded and where you missed some spots.  It keeps you honest and keeps you from getting lazy.  My second friend is Mr. Soapy water.  I wet sanded my boat to 4000 grit.  Spray paint in between ever step up in sandpaper.  

Looking good man. Keep up the good work. Stay discipline. It's all about the finish work


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## Jared T. (Apr 13, 2014)

Looking awesome! Can't wait to see it finished!


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

thanks for the compliments and the info! so where did you start with your wet sanding? any recommondations of final wax? only reason i ask is i read a lot of people starting at like 320! that seems a bit gritty i was thinking more like 600-1000? any recommondations on how long to wait between gel application and beginning finish sanding? 




> A little trick I learned when it comes to wet sanding....  My good friend Mr. Black spray paint.  Lightly spray over the area and it will act as a visual identifier.  It will tell ya where you have already sanded and where you missed some spots.  It keeps you honest and keeps you from getting lazy.  My second friend is Mr. Soapy water.  I wet sanded my boat to 4000 grit.  Spray paint in between ever step up in sandpaper.
> 
> Looking good man.  Keep up the good work.  Stay discipline. It's all about the finish work


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## flyfshrmn82 (Oct 12, 2007)

I wanna say that I started at ~600 in between coats.  Once fully cured (which will depend on environment) a medium-light sanding, followed up with a clean and dry wipe off is all that's required between coats.  Some people might wipe off with acetone, but that can introduce contaminates/moisture to the surface before applying the next coat.  I rolled and tipped on my first coat (lots of little pin holes in the old fiberglass) then sprayed on another 3 coats.  After my final coat, I started at 1000, then 2500, then 4000 if I remember correctly...?  After the final wet sand I used a 3M rubbing compound (comes in a gallon jug) and used air tools to apply.  After the rubbing compound, I applied a couple coats of Maguiars Flagship Marine Wax (black bottle) but you can use what ever you want.


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

well it deffinetly looks great!! im a little past some of those steps but i guess im going to be hopefull!!



> I wanna say that I started at ~600 in between coats.  Once fully cured (which will depend on environment) a medium-light sanding, followed up with a clean and dry wipe off is all that's required between coats.  Some people might wipe off with acetone, but that can introduce contaminates/moisture to the surface before applying the next coat.  I rolled and tipped on my first coat (lots of little pin holes in the old fiberglass) then sprayed on another 3 coats.  After my final coat, I started at 1000, then 2500, then 4000 if I remember correctly...?  After the final wet sand I used a 3M rubbing compound (comes in a gallon jug) and used air tools to apply.  After the rubbing compound, I applied a couple coats of Maguiars Flagship Marine Wax (black bottle) but you can use what ever you want.


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## rhettstark (Aug 13, 2014)

Any more progress?


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## mab108 (Nov 1, 2015)

Awesome build. Question - once you glassed tlur stringers in what/how did you put your floor down? Glue to the tops of the stringers and also filet where floor meets the hull on the sides?

Thanks!


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

mab108 said:


> Awesome build. Question - once you glassed tlur stringers in what/how did you put your floor down? Glue to the tops of the stringers and also filet where floor meets the hull on the sides?
> 
> Thanks!


yes that is exactly what i did.


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

so life kinda got in the way for a while!! back on the build finally!! since last post i have added some nice wooden rod holders to the boat. got the boat ready for paint/gelcoat inside. i decided i did not think i would be able to gel the hatch areas as well as i would have liked so i got some several can's of topside paint hunter green and white to blend together to make my gel color, and some black and tan for my splatter. i did three coats of the green then added the splatter on top. it turned out better than i hoped in some ways and worse in others. the runs in the splatter were very aggravating but i could not seem to figure out a way to get them to stop so i just decided it adds character! as you can see in some of the pics i got the decks glassed up and they turned out really well!! sorry i have not taken the PVA off yet so that i what looks like it;s peeling off is. i can't be more pleased how smooth they turned out. i did 2 coats of 1708 on both sides same as i did the floor. i have decided i am going to do a wooden rub rail as you can see in some of the pics i am mocking it up just to see how it would look ill make it happen once i get the decks installed. i used my router and made a jig/fence to cut the hatches out with. my plan is to build a mold now and make a gutter style hatch system so we will see how that goes next.


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

i glassed both gunnel decks at same time








no matter how i wanted to do the front deck the 1708 just wasnt wide enough so i had a overlapping seam as you can see in the next pic where the black marks are is where my glass lined up. turned out perfectly smooth so im really pleased. 








the reason there is seams is there is two coats of 1708 on both sides so i did the seams opposite each other so i didn't have one place iwth 4 seams. 








test fitting a piece i made to see if i would like the wooden rub rail.









never mind the chupacabra!








finally it looks like a boat!!!















i couldn't do any of this if it wasn't for my pops!! he doesn't know how much i appreciate all the help he has given me on this!








this is my jig i used on the front and back deck to cut out the hatch. they are the same size front and back. 















first coat








second coat








third coat with splatter








this is the 4th coat of spar i intend to do atleast 8 coats.


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## tomahawk (Mar 9, 2012)

Nice work!


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## taco29403 (Jun 16, 2015)

What kind of wood are you using for the rub rail?


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## Shicks007 (Apr 30, 2014)

Looking really good!


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

taco29403 said:


> What kind of wood are you using for the rub rail?


well i am kind of on a budget so it's either going to be poplar or maple


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

Got some good work done on the boat this weekend. i got the gunnels and bulkheads gelcoated before we start putting decks on. im super happy with how my gel coat gun performed!! also got some of the accessory installed like the bilge pump, the livewell pump, rear tie downs, and a few other things. here is some pics of the gel coat.








this is the first coat. did a light tac coat.








second coat


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

third coat








finished product obviously not sanded or polished yet but looks pretty good right out of the gun!


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

moved onto getting started on the electrical tongiht. got the livewell and bilge pumps installed as well as the conduit for all the wiring installed upto the switch backbox. 








i added some protection to the wiring since this will also be for storage. 
















back box for the switches. tomorrow hopefully ill get to actually wiring up the switches.


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

I have enjoyed the thread can't wait to see it on the water. Love the color


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

finally i got something completed!! all of the wiring is installed and for atleast what lighting,pumps, charger etc... is installed is up and running. the only part left electrically is the nav lights, motor and trim and tilt unit but all the wiring is run and ready for connection once those actually get installed. im super happy with how it turned out and pretty proud of how clean it is. somethings could have been better but hey could have been a lot worse! lol. i installed a premade amerimarine 6 switch setup with circuit breakers. i installed a 50 amp circuit breaker for my trolling motor and a master cut off switch for the front battery. i have a 1200 gph bilge pump installed, 1 850 gph livewell pump, 1 850 gph aeriator pump. inside the livewell i also have two overflows one that is my main overflow that is on a removable riser tube so i can drain the livewell the other one vents out the side of the boat in the event primary fails i dont flood my boat. i have two batteries in the boat the front battery runs all of the accessories, live well, ligthing, trolling motor etc... the rear battery is just for the outboard and trim and tilt. i have them totally seperate with the exception i have a connector in the front if i need to i can tie the front and back battery together if i ever need a jump start. i installed a 6 amp dual on-board charger. i put the receptacle for it inside the anchor well as well as a 12 volt plug for when i go shrimping. i love to do night fishing so i added some RGB leds around the boat. i put them inside clear PVC tubing as i had them in the last boat and even thought they say waterproof they really didn't hold up so well so that will give them plenty of elemental protection. 

Tonight i started on the molds for my hatches so tomorrow night i will be making molds!! 









charger plug and 12 volt plug inside anchor well. 








front batter disconnect and fuel gauge








front battery, onboard charger and terminal strip for all front junctions. 
















rear pump area





































i installed my fuel gauge inside this piece of 3"PVC. the cap is removable so you can get to back side of gauge but i put a o-ring inside it to me a good seal and a screw to hold it in place.


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

made some progress tongiht on the hatches. i am staring on the deck portion of the hatch. i made a mold that will form my "gutter" for the hatches. i got it squared and placed on my melamine and siliconed in place to round the corners. i also did some touch up on my stuff under the decks that did not get painted. 









got the gauge and conduit matched. 
















tomorrow ill get PVA on it and hope for the best! this will be my first attempt with a mold!


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

well hopefully i layed up enough glass tonight. i layed up 3 12oz layers. what a task that was!! crossing my fingers it turns out like i hoped tomorrow!!








this is the front edge of the mold. i added the piece of wood and laminated over it so that i would have strength on the back side of the hatch as well as something i could screw my hinges into. 








the deck is upside down here surrounding my mold.


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

I got the deck pryed off the mold! wont make the mistake of just using PVA over the bare end of the wood again! doh. anyways i had to add two more coats of glass to the back side to get it to what i feel is thick enough. i added two pieces of 1708 to it all the way around. it is much firmer now!! also added another piece of wood that i laminated in just on the back side of the hatch to add some more support to the deck. when i glass the deck to the boat that piece will be glassed to the gunnel as well. I would also like to thank Joel Shine at Gulfstream Composites for waiting on me yesterday to pick up some more material. anyone needing material should check him out very reasonable prices and very knowledgeable.
































i decided i will try coating my mold pieces with resin then adding pva over them and hopefully i will actually be able to pull my mold out not destroy it. 









i think it turned out pretty good for a guy working in his garage with no experience!


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)




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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

That is very cool!!!


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## Benjamin F&H (Nov 20, 2015)

Cool re-build!


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## jdpber1 (Aug 21, 2013)

looking good


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

well i got the mold for the rear deck and the mold for the hatches laid out tonight. i will get the pva on tomorrow and hopefully get the rear hatch in done tomorrow.


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

i got the floor of the boat gel coated today and added texure. i taped off area i did not want textured and sprayed my first tac coat of gel. i used a cottage cheese container i poaked some small holes in the lid filled up with my fine sand that i baked to make sure it was good and dry. then i applied it as even as possible and pulled the tape from the area i did not want texture. i then added my second and third coats of gel over top. 








the area i did not want texture








first coat with sand applied








second coat








3rd coat and removed tape etc


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## lowcountry88 (Sep 21, 2015)

looking good!


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## amsoilguy (Apr 2, 2016)

How is that GAF polyiso working for you? Is it very rigid once you glass it? Im going to redo my Johnsen and this GAF is cheap!! Your build is VERY nice!


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

amsoilguy said:


> How is that GAF polyiso working for you? Is it very rigid once you glass it? Im going to redo my Johnsen and this GAF is cheap!! Your build is VERY nice!


not sure if i accidently said i used it or not but i just used that stuff for making my templates i did not fiberglass it. you can not fiberglass it as the resin will just melt it unless you used epoxy resin that might work. the whole boat well stringers and bulkheads i used plascore to build the boat with.


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## amsoilguy (Apr 2, 2016)

scsdiver said:


> not sure if i accidently said i used it or not but i just used that stuff for making my templates i did not fiberglass it. you can not fiberglass it as the resin will just melt it unless you used epoxy resin that might work. the whole boat well stringers and bulkheads i used plascore to build the boat with.


That makes sense! I didn't catch it in the thread if you did. I didn't think you could use that! hahaha I did think for a minute that you may have figured out something new lol. Thanks!


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## Catmandew (Feb 18, 2016)

tip for the mold, use several coats of hi temp mold wax before using the pva. That way you'll be cleaning the pva off the part instead of the mold.


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

Catmandew said:


> tip for the mold, use several coats of hi temp mold wax before using the pva. That way you'll be cleaning the pva off the part instead of the mold.


thank you!!


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

well the bulkheads have been cut to accept the gutters for the hatches. so next few nights are going to be pretty big for me!!


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## rhettstark (Aug 13, 2014)

any new updates?


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## Finn Maccumhail (Apr 9, 2010)

Looking great.

Maybe I missed it but what kind of wood are you using for your rod holders?


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## Carivera (Jan 13, 2017)

Did you ever finish it? Kind of left us hanging...


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