# Trailer rebuild or replace?



## jmrodandgun (Sep 20, 2013)

My EZ loader trailer is a turd. The bunks are too high, leaf springs and hangers need to be replaced, rollers were too small and mounted with the wrong brackets.

So far I've replaced the 4 inch rollers with 10 inch rollers and new brackets. This was to save the hull from digging into the sharp corners of the 4 inch roller brackets. I'm trying to figure out if it's worth replacing the springs and hangers. 

I'm thinking I can drop the rear bunk brackets down and pick up the rear rollers so that it has some weight. Also lower the frame closer to the axle with smaller spring hangers. I don't think the boat is heavy enough to bottom out the wheels inside of the fenders even on the rough Louisiana roads. 

Is this even worth the hassle or should I just order a true dry launch trailer and be done with it?


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## Flycast (Aug 29, 2012)

Does the boat fit the trailer properly? If it doesn't all the adjustments might not make the diff you want. 

On both of the ez loaders I've owned you could adjust bunk height both front and rear. And over the years I've replaced the rear and forward bunk brackets as needed, along with the bunks. And leaf springs get trashed eventually if you're having to dunk it. 

If you can make those modifications and have a trailer that does the job you want its a lot cheaper than buying a new one.


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## jmrodandgun (Sep 20, 2013)

I took some measurements of my friends ramlin last night and I think I can match the set up pretty close unless my math is wrong.

Here is what I learned. Both trailers are the same dimensions in relationship to the hull. His boat is little longer and so is his trailer frame. His boat sits further up on the frame so that his rear keel roller is near even with the transom. My rear keel roller is ~ three inches forward of the transom. His axle is also further forward. 

I've done the math and here is what I came up with.

- Lower rear bunk brackets and make my own double sheer brackets. Single sheer brackets just don't seem logical. Probably perfectly safe but our roads are shit and I've seen more than one single sheer bracket cause bolt failure. 
- Move axle forward 3 inches 
- Move winch stand forward to retain tongue weight and bring the boat further up on the trailer. Tongue weight should remain identical. 
- Raise forward keel roller for slight pressure on the hull and keep the bow from digging into the cross member.
- Make my new spring hangers to lower the frame down closer to the axle as well as give a rearward sloping angle. 
- Refit plastic fenders
- Walking board. 

I may end up having to use a torsion axle if the frame bottoms out on the axle but It should be fine for the short run. The springs haven't started sagging yet so I suspect they are reaching the end of their life span.

That sucker should just slide right off. I'll have to start using a transom saver anti wiggle jiggle device but I'm fine with that.


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