# Trolling motor plug inside the hatch



## efi2712micro (Sep 17, 2015)

Sold a BT3 with the TM plug on top of the deck and got a HPXS with the plug under the deck in the front hatch. Service shop told me that it is the best place to have it but need to cut some glass to have the cable go under between the hatch and gutter. Concerned about compromising dryness.

So to the Q, who has a plug on top of or under the deck? For the latter, how do you run the cable under if you have a quick release TM you use only 10% of the time?


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Battery Tender plug by the puck would be what I would do.


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## efi2712micro (Sep 17, 2015)

Mac - just to make sure, not looking to wire a tender (keeping it external) but connect a removable TM to the 3-prong power plug. Did I misread your suggestion?


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

I would not go notching hatches for a wire, I’d rather have one hole for a Battery Tender plug than cutting hatches for the sake of keeping a marine grade connection dry. Many people use them on the deck and some mount them on the front bulkhead for a horizontal plug that doesn’t get in the way but then you have wire strung across the deck. Keep it close to the removeable puck and keep the wire short. 
I have one I’m waiting to install.


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## efi2712micro (Sep 17, 2015)

M


Smackdaddy53 said:


> I would not go notching hatches for a wire, I’d rather have one hole for a Battery Tender plug than cutting hatches for the sake of keeping a marine grade connection dry. Many people use them on the deck and some mount them on the front bulkhead for a horizontal plug that doesn’t get in the way but then you have wire strung across the deck. Keep it close to the removeable puck and keep the wire short.
> I have one I’m waiting to install.


My thoughts exactly!!! That’s the set up I had on my BT3 and it never failed me for the 2 years I had it!


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## Water Bound (Dec 12, 2018)

I’m sure each hatch is different, but I didn’t have to notch mine. First time I just bent the cord to the shape of the gutter and the cord compresses the gasket enough to close. Still dry and the cord now retains the shape of the gutter


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## efi2712micro (Sep 17, 2015)

Thought about that and used a piece of cable to try but these hatches are pretty tight plus the casting platform is sitting in top of it. Compression would end up damaging the cable I fear! Appreciate the insight!


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## FSUDrew99 (Feb 3, 2015)

I love my top mounted TM plug on my Opsrey. It is right next to the TM and I cut the cord down. I hate to see these nice skiffs with a shitty looking 5' long TM cord running to a plug on the bulkhead or up under a hatch. Looks sloppy.


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## T Bone (Jul 24, 2014)

I am the opposite. My plug is located near the puck on the deck of my skiff and if i could do it over again, i would move it to the bulkhead. No mater how watertight the plug on the deck is, water always finds a way inside of it, which leads to corrosion.


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## Frank Ucci (Jan 20, 2019)

I've had 3 different boats with trolling motor plugs mounted on the bow deck. They all eventually failed due to water getting into the plugs, causing them to corrode. I was using Marinco plugs. On my newer boats I have a small hole in the deck near the trolling motor puck which leads into the bow compartment. The hole is trimmed with a Moeller plastic motor well drain tube. I have attached heat-shrink terminal ends on my trolling motor cables, which I pass through the hole and attach to powered terminal posts inside the bow compartment. It's not particularly elegant, but it works very well. Perhaps using a higher quality plug and planning to replace it every season or two might be the best idea.


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## efi2712micro (Sep 17, 2015)

T Bone said:


> I am the opposite. My plug is located near the puck on the deck of my skiff and if i could do it over again, i would move it to the bulkhead. No mater how watertight the plug on the deck is, water always finds a way inside of it, which leads to corrosion.


Thanks T Bone! How long of a wire do you run on deck! I find keeping the deck as clean as possible is the best way to keep shit from happening. We had a bull red throw in one jump the bucket and the ruler in the water while breaking a rod in the rack. Concern is that a cable across the deck will also get hit eventually. Is that a concern?


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## sandyharris (Jan 12, 2015)

Not mine but it's how I'm going to do mine.......


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## efi2712micro (Sep 17, 2015)

Frank Ucci said:


> Perhaps using a higher quality plug and planning to replace it every season or two might be the best idea.


Thanks Frank! That might be the ticket. The Marinco plug I had on my previous boat was quite tight and dry. I will see if there are better ones unless someone on the forum has the answer.


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## efi2712micro (Sep 17, 2015)

sandyharris said:


> Not mine but it's how I'm going to do mine.......
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inside the hatch is exactly how mine is set up! Is it a HPX?


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## sandyharris (Jan 12, 2015)

efi2712micro said:


> inside the hatch is exactly how mine is set up! Is it a HPX?


Yes......belongs to a NOLA guide.......


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## NativeBone (Aug 16, 2017)

Frank Ucci said:


> I've had 3 different boats with trolling motor plugs mounted on the bow deck. They all eventually failed due to water getting into the plugs, causing them to corrode. I was using Marinco plugs. On my newer boats I have a small hole in the deck near the trolling motor puck which leads into the bow compartment. The hole is trimmed with a Moeller plastic motor well drain tube. I have attached heat-shrink terminal ends on my trolling motor cables, which I pass through the hole and attach to powered terminal posts inside the bow compartment. It's not particularly elegant, but it works very well. Perhaps using a higher quality plug and planning to replace it every season or two might be the best idea.


Can you share some pics?


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## Tautog166 (Jul 7, 2018)

I used a cable clam for TM power and nmea cables. The power cables are on quick connects that connect to the 60amp breaker inside the hatch. If I take off the TM I just use an undrilled rubber stopper on the cable clam.


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## DBStoots (Jul 9, 2011)

Or, try this: https://pwrpux.com/shop?olsPage=products. Paul Payne was the Service Manager for Hell's Bay Boatworks. He invented this trolling motor quick release bracket that eliminated the need for power cords.


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## Water Bound (Dec 12, 2018)

Thanks for the link! I did not know he left, HB lost a valuable asset!



DBStoots said:


> Or, try this: https://pwrpux.com/shop?olsPage=products. Paul Payne was the Service Manager for Hell's Bay Boatworks. He invented this trolling motor quick release bracket that eliminated the need for power cords.


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## Frank Ucci (Jan 20, 2019)

NativeBone, Here you go...


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## K3anderson (Jan 23, 2013)

Paul Payne from HB recently came out with a cool thing that might help you. https://pwrpux.com/?fbclid=IwAR0fPFtEXx-qewdwpLFg6y1hW059Nno0Xiq4VsZlL9RcJcNwUf2I2iKWOJ0


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## K3anderson (Jan 23, 2013)

K3anderson said:


> Paul Payne from HB recently came out with a cool thing that might help you. https://pwrpux.com/?fbclid=IwAR0fPFtEXx-qewdwpLFg6y1hW059Nno0Xiq4VsZlL9RcJcNwUf2I2iKWOJ0


He showed it to me last time I was down there. Then there are no plugs on the deck at all. He should probably have the video



__ https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=199105184492627


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

That is slick!


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## K3anderson (Jan 23, 2013)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> That is slick!


I guess he has been testing it on skiffs for like a year or two and now its finally in production.


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## NativeBone (Aug 16, 2017)

Frank Ucci said:


> NativeBone, Here you go...
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Very nice! Thank you sir!


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

K3anderson said:


> I guess he has been testing it on skiffs for like a year or two and now its finally in production.


Ballpark cost?


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## Water Bound (Dec 12, 2018)

According to their website...$499 


Smackdaddy53 said:


> Ballpark cost?


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Water Bound said:


> According to their website...$499


If you designed anything, tested it and put it on the market you wouldn’t give it away either.


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## Water Bound (Dec 12, 2018)

Agreed, I've had conversations with Paul where the knowledge alone was worth $500! 



Smackdaddy53 said:


> If you designed anything, tested it and put it on the market you wouldn’t give it away either.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Water Bound said:


> Agreed, I've had conversations with Paul where the knowledge alone was worth $500!


I’m pissed I didn’t think of it!


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## stussing (Oct 29, 2018)

I installed a Battery Tender plug on the bulkhead. Have all of the wires wrapped so not an issue on the deck. The plug stays dry.


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## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

Your shop probably has never installed a Battery Tender surface mount plug in socket... Can't tell you how happy I am with the one we installed on my old Maverick skiff - right next to the trolling motor... The socket isn't cheap at around $80. It locks up solid, is bone dry, and completely trouble free.... It also seals up tight when you're not using it... 

If the shop you're dealing with hasn't used them you might also want to look around for an outfit that does use them....


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## finbully (Jan 26, 2013)

sandyharris said:


> Not mine but it's how I'm going to do mine.......
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This is a good concept and what MBG will provide from the factory as an option. The SS thru hull is fine but I don’t use the ugly fitting that is screwed into the SS thru hill. I simply use a #10 rubber stopper, drill a hole thru the center and pass the power cable through it. I have had this set-up on two boats since 2012 and have experienced zero water leaks. When the TM is not on the deck, simply screw in the SS cap. Like Capt. Bob said the Battery Tender plug is the go-to setup.


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## Mako 181 (May 1, 2020)

I recently used a Power Winch plug. Don't feel it will last to long. 
Wait & See.


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## mmccull5 (Nov 15, 2012)

I had the gas cap on the deck with the plug under the front hatch on my previous two boats. It was a pain to remove, albeit I only did it two times a year.

Have Paul's power pux on currently. If it holds up, it will certainly be a gamechanger.


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