# SPEED!



## Brett

Sure...pitch all the unnecessary gear in the dumpster.
The lighter the load the faster you go. Otherwise, buy a bigger outboard.


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## noeettica

Get one of these !  ...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hm9r1KwCo8Q&feature=related

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FRZ8QrFjlnc&NR=1


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## Bissell

thats why i dont think im gunna have anything that needs a battery, but the factory 9x9p alm. prop isnt gunna cut it


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## noeettica

Once you get a baseline go from there ... You will want a stingray to correct porpoising Then perhaps a 10 or 11 pitch prop ...

Get the cav plate 1.5" above bottom of boat 


after those things are done all that's left is 2 mph and It's elusive and expensive to get ...


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## Flyline

U won't get a major difference in speeed with a 15hp motor. The max speed u can get is around 26 mph light load with right propeller. I tried a powertech 3 blade polished 10" pitch stainless steel and it shoot really good with the NMZ.

If u really want more speed then get a 25.


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## Bissell

what does that prop cost?


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## TomFL

Spend your $$ on a 25hp. 

You can spend a ton of $$ and lighten the boat all you want to go from 26/27 (and still lose 3-4mph with a passenger) with the 15hp, or sell it, find yourself a 25hp and run 32-33 all day long, and lose 1-2 mph with a passenger. 

In the long run it'll be cheaper and easier. 

-T


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## noeettica

I Don't Think a 25 Hp is a good Idea on a NMZ/Highsider ...


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## Flyline

> I Don't Think a 25 Hp is a good Idea on a NMZ/Highsider ...



i ran it but id u know how to drive one. check my merc 40 pic on the outboard maintance... hitting 38 MPH with stock with pently of throttle left.


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## TomFL

> I Don't Think a 25 Hp is a good Idea on a NMZ/Highsider ...


Oh sh*t, missed that one, thought we were talking about an LT here. 

Scratch my last post then, stay away from a 25 on a hi-sider!!! You will lose an eye playing in that sandbox for sure. 

Another option is to look for one of the 18hp nissan motors, which I think were underrated. I had one and loved it, they're very light and are a great match for a 13 or 15 with an experienced pilot. That will push your hull 28 or so with stock prop. 

And they can be had for about twice the cost of a stainless propeller.

The thing to remember here is just how much time will you be saving once you go faster? If your spot is 2-3 miles away, the difference in time to get there with a boat that's even 5mph faster boils down to a handful of seconds. 

If your run is 15 miles away, it might be worth it. But who's making a 15 mile run in a gheenoe? And it'd be faster, cheaper and easier to trailer it closer!

-T


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## Bissell

i dont think im gunna get a new motor ill just tweek the one i got ;D


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## HighSide25

> I Don't Think a 25 Hp is a good Idea on a NMZ/Highsider ...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The thing to remember here is just how much time will you be saving once you go faster? If your spot is 2-3 miles away, the difference in time to get there with a boat that's even 5mph faster boils down to a handful of seconds.
> 
> 
> AGREED, TRIED AND TRUE
> 
> If your run is 15 miles away, it might be worth it. But who's making a 15 mile run in a gheenoe?
> 
> 
> ME! BUT IM SPECIAL
Click to expand...


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## Brett

By the time you get done tweaking that outboard,
you'll have spent enough money to have purchased another one.

That's ok with me, everyone needs a hobby...  

Trim tabs...
Jackplate...
Cupped stainless prop...
Port and polish the intake and exhaust...
Better reeds...

all for a gain of 3 to 5 mph    ;D

the best part is, about the time you get done tweaking and spending
you'll be bored and start looking for your next boat to play with.
And when you sell, you rarely make back the money spent.


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## Bissell

ohh sorry, when i said tweek i ment the jp tabs prop ect. not actually to the motor, shouls have been more clear lol :


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## DuckNut

> i ment the jp tabs prop ect.


. Maybe I missed it but I think they covered that.


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## Bissell

> By the time you get done tweaking that outboard,
> you'll have spent enough money to have purchased another one.
> 
> That's ok with me, everyone needs a hobby...
> 
> Trim tabs...
> Jackplate...
> Cupped stainless prop...
> Port and polish the intake and exhaust...
> Better reeds...
> 
> all for a gain of 3 to 5 mph    ;D
> 
> the best part is, about the time you get done tweaking and spending
> you'll be bored and start looking for your next boat to play with.
> And when you sell, you rarely make back the money spent.





> ohh sorry, when i said tweek i ment the jp tabs prop ect. not actually to the motor, shouls have been more clear lol


you must have missed this..


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## DuckNut

Didn't miss it at all...I was being polite in pointing out that your question was answered by the "King of Reason" aka Brett.


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## Bissell

i already knew this... but alright thanks


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## noeettica

For me It's worth it for 5 Mph ;-)

In a 13 footer 5 Mph is HUGE


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## Brett

Oh c'mon Dave, you and I both know that when you feel the need for speed,
you put a big engine in/on a small lightweight hull.
Then you find a long stretch of smooth open water,
fire her up, straighten her out, get a grip and put the hammer down.
Then hope you don't blink at the wrong moment and end up fubar-ed.



[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ok5LH8RqrV4[/media]


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## Charlie

Ouch


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## Bissell

how much of a differance in over all performance withh micro tabs make? they are way cheaper to make them than to buy them, but i wanna know its gunna be worth the time money & effort..


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## Brett

Trim tabs give you control over the hull's reactions
to changes in speed, load, balance and water conditions.
I consider trim tabs to be a necessity on any hull large enough
to allow the use of an outboard with power trim and tilt.
It's not that they create more speed, but that they
allow you to adjust hull orientation to fit what you're doing
with the engine trim and thrust. On a small hull which is
going to be used in calm inshore waters, with an outboard
that is kept at the same trim setting all the time,
balancing the load in the hull is all that's needed.
How do you know if your hull is balanced?
At the dock, look at how the hull sits in the water.
If she sits deep at the stern, too much weight aft, she'll squat on plane.
If she sits deep at the bow, too much weight forward, she'll plow.
You want the load distributed so that the hull sets level in the water.
That loading includes the people aboard.


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## Bissell

so would you say they are worth putting on my nmz?


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## Brett

It's an NMZ, not a race hull. Note the name: No Motor Zone.
I'd just go fishing. Use it in the manner for which it was designed.
A hull intended to access shallow waters, with a minimum of add-ons.
When you get bored with it, sell it. If you still feel the need for speed,
then buy something designed for more horsepower.


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## noeettica

If you are only running one motor get a Sting Ray Jr.

Loose Porpoising but drop 2 Mph ... Good trade ...


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## mcA896

> U won't get a major difference in speeed with a 15hp motor.  The max speed u can get is around 26 mph light load with right propeller.   I tried a powertech 3 blade polished 10" pitch stainless steel and it shoot really good with the NMZ.
> 
> If u really want more speed then get a 25.



Not entirely true. With a reasonably light load, speeds in excess of 45-50 MPH are attainable with a 15 HP. 

First, you cannot just go out and purchase the highest pitch prop you can get your hands on. This will likely just dog down your engine and you'll be burning up pistons faster than you can switch back to your old prop. Cupping a prop will also not necessarily result in higher speed; cup is not the same as pitch. Cup, simply put, increased the prop's "grip" on the water, allowing it to work more efficiently. Also, if you are running a heavy boat you may experience a great deal of slip. This can be combatted by cup, or an increase in diameter; larger diameter props work more efficiently than smaller diameter.

You need to look at your RPM and currently see where you are running in comparison to the mfg.'s suggested WOT RPM range. If you're below this range, you're already over-propped and need to either jack the engine up, or decrease pitch. If you're over-revving, you can afford to increase pitch without increasing engine height.

That being said, a tach is ESSENTIAL to properly propping (he he ;D) a motor. Without it, you're likely to toast your outboard one way or another.

The REAL way to get all-out speed from a small engine like this is with a surface piercing propeller, also called a cleaver. These props are typically a relatively small diameter, high pitch stainless unit with a raked leading edge and a razor sharp straight trailing edge. They are designed to work half-in and half-out of the water, meaning for every revolution of the prop, only half of it will be submerged. It's somewhat counter intuitive, because with a standard non surface piercing prop, you'd get a great deal of cavitation from running it in such a manner. But, surface piercing props work more efficiently this way. 

In order to reap the full benefits of such a prop, it must be ran much higher in relation to the water surface. Whereas with a typical propeller, you would run the cavitation plate level or slightly above the bottom of the boat, on a surface piercing prop it is ideal to run the centerline of the prop shaft directly in line with the bottom of the boat. You need a jackplate to do this, and a low water pickup to prevent engine damage due to overheating. 

Although for all-out speed running they are great, the pitfalls are many, especially for the avg. fisherman. A great deal of turning stability is lost due to less of the lower unit providing straight-line tracking, particularly in flat bottom rigs, which is why most racers implement a turn fin of some sort, so you don't constantly slide in turns. This increases draft. Also, reverse performance is very poor due to the inherently uni-directional blade shape. Slow speed performance is also poor because the propeller is working very inefficiently when fully submerged (i.e. when the boat is not fully on plane)

The other downfall is price. There is only one guy I know of who makes these props for small outboards, and his name is Ron Hill. He can make you a custom prop for any outboard, but it runs in the range of $400. But, he will modify it for you so you get the desired performance once it is constructed.

For example, APBA stock class hydros run OMC 15 engines, with surface piercing props typically in the 9x22-25 size. That's alot of pitch considering the avg. fishing prop is around 9" of pitch! And they are running upwards of 40 MPH.


Heh, a quick guide to surface piercing props for ya. Don't say I didn't warn ya.


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## Bissell

if i ever hit 40 in an NMZ i think id.... my pants!


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## Brett

Welcome to the forum ToneDef...

I want to see an NMZ with a power jackplate,
trim tabs, nosecone/low-water pickup and a cleaver,
console steering and an almost empty hull.

We'll get "Crash"....er...OSWLD to test run it for us.


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## noeettica

Ahhh I witnessed a Certain Individual Drive an LT Full speed onto the Beach 


We'll get "Crash"....er...OSWLD to test run it for us.


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