# Grab rail floor mounting....



## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Robtattoo said:


> I'm kinda loathe to ask this, but: Nidacore false floor. What's the best/strongest way to attach a grab rail? I'm permanently bonding the floor, so however I do it needs to be 100% fail proof. There's no center/jump seat I'll be adding it to the floor only. Also, I'm a big fat bastard.....it's gotta be strong.


Can you thru bolt it before bonding the false floor? This would allow you to add a backing plate too if you're worried about your fat ass 

I would also add a collar of thickened epoxy (similar to potting fasteners in core).


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## Guest (Jun 11, 2018)

The nida won’t like compression so what yobata said is dead on. You can cut out a section of honeycomb and insert a piece of 1/4” aluminum or stainless plate. Then like yobata said, use some thickened resin to fill the void, now glass over the area. Mark and drill the holes then run correct tap through the holes in the plate, now you have a solid way of mounting your grab bar that is remivable if the need ever arises. I prefer stainless over aluminum in this application because of the corrosion between stainless/aluminum and stuck bolt problems that the dissimilar metal causes.


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## predacious (Sep 1, 2016)

Boatbrains said:


> The nida won’t like compression so what yobata said is dead on. You can cut out a section of honeycomb and insert a piece of 1/4” aluminum or stainless plate. Then like yobata said, use some thickened resin to fill the void, now glass over the area. Mark and drill the holes then run correct tap through the holes in the plate, now you have a solid way of mounting your grab bar that is remivable if the need ever arises. I prefer stainless over aluminum in this application because of the corrosion between stainless/aluminum and stuck bolt problems that the dissimilar metal causes.




composites require "thru bolting and sleeving" 

in some cases,fasteners are blind,requiring a specific technique - no,that technique doesn't involve "toggle style bolts",those will fail....

specific technique requires removing core,without damaging inner skin of glass - use a sharpened allen wrench,short side.remove coring and fill the area with a thickened EPOXY,not a cheap polyester resin.after it kicks,locate the fasteners and drill the correct sized holes - use machine screws,not self tapping.example : you're using 1/4-20 screws,drill holes @ 7/32",sharpen screws on a grinder,dab of 3m 5200 and run that screw in - the epoxy will thread,just like a nut.you want to remove it ? back it out - inexperienced individuals will tell you 3m 5200 is permenant,those people are mistaken...

that's the technique to use...

tell me,if you're working on installing a grab bar,you've no access under - exactly how do you plan to cut out and add a piece of metal ?

aluminum plates,used during the lay up is fine,however,if the plates were not done at lay up,it's gonna be challenging ...tapping 1/4" aluminum isn't needed,there's a much better way to do that as well...

"honey comb" "nidacor" - this core is made from recycled milk jugs - it has excellent compression resistance - it's like an "I beam"


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## Guest (Jun 16, 2018)

Predacious, op has several threads going. He has floor removed so he has access. I agree with your method when doing it blind, can you tell me more about your better way than plate below floor for mounting sir? I’ve installed many many flybridges, platforms, flats towers, ect... and this is how I’ve always done it. But I like to learn new methods any chance I can. Also, I should have said honeycomb doesn’t like clamping forces, ie compression from both sides.


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## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

Since the floor isn't in place it would be a simple matter to secure one (or more) backing plates to the underside of the deck where the rail will secure... after threading them for the bolts of choice (and as noted stainless plate(s) will be best for stainless machine bolts). Then drill out the deck to accomodate stainless sleeves that come right to the surface of your deck so that once the floor is installed each bolt securing your rail will mate to a sleeve under pressure (no possible compression of the composite core). Done properly it would look very professional and leave a smooth deck if removed...

I'm currently facing an issue brought on by my aging customer base (anglers barely able to stand - but still want to fly fish, etc... - no you don't just get to fish young, fit anglers if you're full time and doing it for some years...) so I'm considering a leaning post of some kind for my old Maverick... it will have to be using the same kind of blind installation that you use for through bolted deck chairs if I decide to go that route...


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

I assume this is for the gheenoe. Since the floor is out and will only be an inch above the hull why couldn't you put a 10" square glob of epoxy where you think you will mount it and then tap into the glob and bolt it down.

Also many of the bars I have seen on the gheenoe a have one side of the bar mounted to the side of the boat and one to the floor. Also have seen a single post grab bar.


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