# DIY Keel Guard, including bed liner systems



## Backwater

Any of you guys look into or do one of those DIY bed liner for a keel guard? I want to do one and have found a product called *Durabak* that says they are saltwater marine compatible and UV resistant and comes in a smooth finish that can be rolled on with a foam roller. They claim it's hard but flexible (polyester) and comes in a number of colors. Also says it don't chip or peel and can be earily repairable if needed. I have a sky blue hull and they have a light blue color to match. So I'm painting the 10" wide running pad from underneath and up that width to the front of the keel. It says that a quart ($50+ $15 to ship) will do 2 coats (2nd coat gets applied 1hr after 1st coat) and says it will be a total of about 1/4" thick.

Oh, and one more thing..... They make it in clear too!

https://www.durabakcompany.com/marine/

https://www.durabakcompany.com/colored-bed-liner-paint-for-your-truck/

I have to admit, the stuff looks good and promising.

Anyone with experience with this stuff? Or any experience with something similar?

Tried looking for the stick on Keel Guards and they are expensive and most are only 5" wide.

My other option is to go to Line X of Sarasota and they can do it too, but also expensive.


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## firecat1981

It's all about the prep! If you do it right it will last a while, if not it will peel or chip up. There are tons of options now, frog spit, steel flex...... I'm going with a HBN/epoxy mix on my build, but used a similar graphite/epoxy mix in the past with great results.


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## Jason Cooper

Used the durabak nonskid on an old Wellcraft. Held up very good but was so rough it was hard to clean. The smooth Durabak has to be a good product if its anything like what I used 10 years ago


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## jmrodandgun

I don't understand the point of these.


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## firecat1981

jmrodandgun said:


> I don't understand the point of these.


It's to protect the bottom of the boat from impacts and beaching. What don't you understand?


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## permitchaser

I don't beach mine but it looks like someone else did


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## Zika

I tried one on my Bayshore. Took a day to prep and apply and another full day to peel off and clean. Absolute disaster. Had the railer all set up for drive on loading but the Keel Guard would stick like a fly on flypaper. Will never add another one to any boat I own.


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## Smackdaddy53

jmrodandgun said:


> I don't understand the point of these.


Some of us beach our boats and it wears away at the keel and also the bow eye area gets beat up from trailering. 
I’m going to go with some Durabak in Oyster White soon. I’m about to pull the cheesy plastic cladding off my Excursion and coat the areas where it was with black Durabak. I will let you guys know how easy it is to work with and how durable it really is.


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## tjtfishon

I was just considering a Keel Guard or Keel Shield myself.


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## yobata

Considered using multiple 4" wide strips of KeelEazy? It's pretty inexpensive


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## ReelFisher

I've been looking into using Raptor Tough on the keel of my boat...same stuff Beavertail uses on their new Predator boat. They come in different colors and you can apply it smooth or textured. They have pretty detailed instructions for applying on different materials and are very responsive for any questions you have.


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## Backwater

Zika said:


> I tried one on my Bayshore. Took a day to prep and apply and another full day to peel off and clean. Absolute disaster. Had the railer all set up for drive on loading but the Keel Guard would stick like a fly on flypaper. Will never add another one to any boat I own.


I'm assuming you are talking about one of those peel and stick keel guards like Keel Guard. Trying to stay away from those.

Wow, you had a Bayshore? Nice looking boat!


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## Backwater

yobata said:


> Considered using multiple 4" wide strips of KeelEazy? It's pretty inexpensive


Nope!


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## Zika

Backwater said:


> I'm assuming you are talking about one of those peel and stick keel guards like Keel Guard. Trying to stay away from those.
> 
> Wow, you had a Bayshore? Nice looking boat!


Yes and yes, for 14 years. My main guide boat. Still shed a tear about selling but I'm buying it back as soon as I win the PowerBall. And hiring a full-time guide to pole me around.


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## bryson

I'm curious about this too, but mostly for the aft section of the keel. I've got a large area that's worn down past the gelcoat, and would like to protect it without changing the running surface too much.


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## Backwater

I went ahead and pulled the trigger. The main thing I'm worried about is rolling it on while the boat is upright. Hopefully, it's thick enough to not drip with a foam roller or a hard bristle brush. I'll give a report on how it did.


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## tjtfishon

Backwater said:


> I went ahead and pulled the trigger. The main thing I'm worried about is rolling it on while the boat is upright. Hopefully, it's thick enough to not drip with a foam roller or a hard bristle brush. I'll give a report on how it did.


Let me know when you are doing this. If I have time I would consider helping you out if you like to learn about the process.


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## Bonecracker

Very interested in this Ted and hope your take some pics along the way!


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## Backwater

tjtfishon said:


> Let me know when you are doing this. If I have time I would consider helping you out if you like to learn about the process.


It will be a learning process myself. You are welcome to come on down, but nevertheless, I'll detailed how I do it. I'm trying to get it done before I switch trailers, which the new one has center line keel bunks as well. So I'll have no way to access the keel and running pad after that.

I have my fingers crossed that this stuff will be the ticket to a tough running pad and keel. For $49 for a quart plus $15 for shipping, it would be a "must-do" on the next boat. It should be here by the weekend and that's when I want to apply it on.


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## tjtfishon

Backwater said:


> It will be a learning process myself. You are welcome to come on down, but nevertheless, I'll detailed how I do it. I'm trying to get it done before I switch trailers, which the new one has center line keel bunks as well. So I'll have no way to access the keel and running pad after that.
> 
> I have my fingers crossed that this stuff will be the ticket to a tough running pad and keel. For $49 for a quart plus $15 for shipping, it would be a "must-do" on the next boat. It should be here by the weekend and that's when I want to apply it on.


I’m sure seeing it first hand would be better than reading a post..,plus an extra set of hands never hurt anyone. If it works out for a win-win...


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## Chad Cohn

I'm going to be using Herculiner on mine. SInce it's the keel I'm not concerned about color and black will be fine. Just waiting for the right time to do it. Thinking of putting my boat & trailer on jack stands for easier access for me & the creeper. I know the prep will be the biggie and I'm hoping that my OCD is strong enough to get it done...correctly. I'm using a regular heavy nap roller because I read that it will give a smoother finish. I may do my anchor or anchor locker as well. I'd love to say I'll document it but I won't because I suck at doing that. lol


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## tjtfishon

yobata said:


> Considered using multiple 4" wide strips of KeelEazy? It's pretty inexpensive


I just got a sample of this in the mail. I also have samples of Keel Shield and Keel Guard. 
I like this Keel Easy. Especially the part about taking it off with a heat gun when it needs to be replaced.
Ease of install and easy of removal seem to make this better than both the stick on as well as the painted kind


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## Fsh_paintr

Anyone ever try a roll-on bedliner on an older galvanized trailer with good results? Just curious.


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## Smackdaddy53

Fsh_paintr said:


> Anyone ever try a roll-on bedliner on an older galvanized trailer with good results? Just curious.


Sounds like a rust trap


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## tjtfishon

Fsh_paintr said:


> Anyone ever try a roll-on bedliner on an older galvanized trailer with good results? Just curious.


I think that would be a bad idea. No way to know when the metal underneath is rusted. 
Unless this is only for fresh water


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## Fsh_paintr

Yeah, I get all that but i was simply asking if anyone here already tried it, not what the potential problems were as I already understand that. Reason I'm curious is i get that it could potentially hold water inside or under if any chips were to occur in the bedliner coating, but galvanization also chips. So I'm asking if you're doing it to a trailer already galvanized, can it potentially act as a double protection in terms for saltwater use? And if you're not dunking your trailer and dry launching and washing immediately after with soap and water at the car wash anyway, wouldn't lessen any chance of problems occurring? Not sure why anyone would do this to an aluminum trailer. Definitely not sure why someone would have a steel trailer for saltwater use to begin with to be bedlined later. So was just wondering on a galvanized one if it already has a protective layer , to add another one. Not sure if its something I'd ever do myself but theres plenty of powder coated and bedlined trailers out there and wanted to see what results someone had, if its been done, doing it to a galvanized trailer.


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## tjtfishon

Backwater said:


> I went ahead and pulled the trigger. The main thing I'm worried about is rolling it on while the boat is upright. Hopefully, it's thick enough to not drip with a foam roller or a hard bristle brush. I'll give a report on how it did.


did you do this yet?


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## Backwater

Update.... I never opened it and I'm sending it back because after further reviewing of the product. Even tho it's smooth, it still has a non-slip (and possible a non-skid) texture to it (I didn't previously realized that fact before I pulled the trigger). Once it's dry and with the new low slung trailer I'm building up with 2 center line bunks that will support the running pad of the boat (trailer will have 4 2x6 bunks laying flat, with 2 of them down the keel), I fear the non slip/skid texture will interfere with some of the almost dry launches I have to do with the boat in my area. In other words, I'm afraid it will cause the keel to "stick" to the carpeted keel bunks and hinder my low water/low tide launching.

So I'm returning it and then probably running up to St Pete to Fiberglass Coatings (FGCI) and have them mix me up some light blue pigment in some thick 2 part white epoxy bilge paint. I'll let you know what I decide on once I've gone there and listen to what they recommend.

Either way I go, I'll probably have to tape off and lightly sand the gelcoat with 220-400 on my orbital sander, to give something for the epoxy to bite onto. I've done that 2 part epoxy bilge paint before and it's super slick, chip resistant and super hard. It might be the solution I'm looking for.


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## DuckNut

The texture I believe is from the roller used. I think you get a textured roller with it but what if you used a short nap roller?

Those super fast race boats have that texture on their hull as they say it imparts air under the hull and increases speed.

I still don't think the texture would be your concern. I think what would concern me would be the rubber like material regardless of texture or smooth trying to slide along carpet.


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## tjtfishon

I'm going to try the Keel Easy...


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## firecat1981

Epoxy and graphite. Cheap, easy, proven.


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## NativeBone

firecat1981 said:


> Epoxy and graphite. Cheap, easy, proven.


How do you go about purchasing? A kit?


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## firecat1981

You can buy powdered graphite from bateau.com, then mix about 25-30% by volume into epoxy and roll it on, tip if needed. Make sure to sift the graphite to make sure it mixes smoothly, 2-3 coats will do it. Touch it up every few years when it gets chewed up.


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## jay.bush1434

Fsh_paintr said:


> Yeah, I get all that but i was simply asking if anyone here already tried it, not what the potential problems were as I already understand that. Reason I'm curious is i get that it could potentially hold water inside or under if any chips were to occur in the bedliner coating, but galvanization also chips. So I'm asking if you're doing it to a trailer already galvanized, can it potentially act as a double protection in terms for saltwater use? And if you're not dunking your trailer and dry launching and washing immediately after with soap and water at the car wash anyway, wouldn't lessen any chance of problems occurring? Not sure why anyone would do this to an aluminum trailer. Definitely not sure why someone would have a steel trailer for saltwater use to begin with to be bedlined later. So was just wondering on a galvanized one if it already has a protective layer , to add another one. Not sure if its something I'd ever do myself but theres plenty of powder coated and bedlined trailers out there and wanted to see what results someone had, if its been done, doing it to a galvanized trailer.


My Ramlin trailer for my Vantage is galvanized with a flat black industrial urethane coating on it. Seems to have held up really well for almost 4 years on the Texas coast.


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## Fsh_paintr

jay.bush1434 said:


> My Ramlin trailer for my Vantage is galvanized with a flat black industrial urethane coating on it. Seems to have held up really well for almost 4 years on the Texas coast.


Thank you!


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## tjtfishon

Keel Easy

We'll see how this holds up, but definitely easier than rolling something on or installing the thicker ones


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## NativeBone

Nice tjtfoshon- any special prep? Do you scuff the gel coat before applying


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## tjtfishon

NativeBone said:


> Nice tjtfoshon- any special prep? Do you scuff the gel coat before applying


No scuffing. Just clean with acetone or alcohol. A heat gun is suggested which I purchased for $15 at Harbor Freight and was worth every penny.


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## Smackdaddy53

tjtfishon said:


> No scuffing. Just clean with acetone or alcohol. A heat gun is suggested which I purchased for $15 at Harbor Freight and was worth every penny.


And you can use it to heat shrink connectors later.


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## tjtfishon

If anyone wants to try it I ordered more than I used and have 6' left. It was $8/foot.
I ordered 12' but felt like the generous 6' I applied was adequate.


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## CurtisWright

When I was into white water paddeling we would get a piece of felt from the craft store that matched the color or our boats. Soak in in Epoxy then lay it into place and let it cure. Bang it into rocks for a few seasons, then grind / chip it off and replace.

Apparently someone has improved on this idea making some sort of Kevlar felt. I don't know about these. We used felt because you could bang into a rock, and take a chunk/gouge without risking peeling the whole keel guard off. If we used a woven cloth, then the whole thing would peel off with one good impact. They are really easy to apply.

https://www.amazon.com/Kevlar-Felt-Skid-Plates-Pre-Cut/dp/B01KAGMX3A


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## tjtfishon

Ok, too good to be true I guess. I would not recommend KeelEasy. I followed directions explicitly and started having problems with adhesion after only a few weeks.


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## NativeBone

@tjtfishon Man, I had the same happen to me.....Damn!


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## tjtfishon

NativeBone said:


> @tjtfishon Man, I had the same happen to me.....Damn!


Sorry I didn't post sooner, but I thought I would reach out to the company for a response before posting a negative review. They did respond and were friendly enough, but other than suggesting that I use "Barge Cement" to the detached area and saying it was probably due to excessive heat they were not really interested in doing anything. If excessive heat was the cause then there must be very little tolerance for heat application because I did not even gloves as demonstrated in their video. My bare hands and a heat gun...and no blisters, burns or other casualties other than their product.


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## NativeBone

I applied with a heat gun as shown in their "how to" video making sure I was extremely cautioned not to apply to much heat or for too long and the result was the same. Unfortunately, I just don't believe it's a good choice of product for an area with such contours. It doesn't lend itself to shape very easily and the adhesive lacks a bit.


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## yobata

@tjtfishon @NativeBone thank you guys for posting this valuable info! I have only seen one person use the KeelEazy product and it held up for 6+ months. The guy had it on the bow of an Ankona Native SUV 17' which has a pretty sharp bow entry, but that was 4+ years ago and who knows how their manufacturing process has changed


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## garyshort

I contacted Durabak and chatted with several folks about using on my 14' RHIB. I had ablative bottom paint already, but had scratched and light damage (exposing gel coat) from beaching on a rocky/sandy lake shore. They advised to remove the bottom paint first. Here was my process:

Taped a 4" tapeline with Duct tape on both sides of the keel.
Used an attachment to my pressure washer wand to suck and blow #50 sand and removed the bottom paint - super easy and fast, leaving a lightly rough to the touch result (remove shine of the gelcoat).
Re-taped my line on each side.
Used a weeny roller (door paint roller with very short nap) to apply the Smooth Version of Durabak.
Used 1 qt of Durabak on an approximately 13' length X 8" wide swath of keel line.
Applied 6-7 (used entire can) thin coats of the Durabak, with at least 4 hours between coats over 2 days. Make sure it is dry to the touch (not tacky).
Remove Duct tape line right after apply final coat.
Let it cure for about 10 days and then lowered back onto the trailer keel rollers.
Have been off and on the trailer multiple times and in the water for days at a time.
Super hard shell keel guard now. About 1/8-1/4" thick. Will last forever. But easy to recoat. No need to remove.

This is much better than a Gator Keel Guard or Keel Shield. Those will ALWAYS eventually fall off. Some sooner than others. Durabak will not flake off and much stronger and you can use it when you have a keel roller on your trailer. Can't use a gator or keel shield with a keel roller.


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