# converting a wet launch trailer to dry launch



## redsonfly (Jun 8, 2007)

I have a 2015 Continental aluminum trailer with leaf springs which requires me to dunk the trailer to launch and retrieve the boat.
Is there any way I can convert this trailer to a dry launch style trailer like the Ramlin that came with my whipray years ago?
If so what steps are involved, as the trailer would have to be lowered.
Does it make economic sense to do this or just replace the trailer?
Some of the ramps do not allow for a wet launch trailer, especially at lower tides.


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## ADicus (Feb 15, 2013)

I believe it's mainly in the design but anything can be modified! I think the biggest thing is the bunks are further back on the ram-lin allowing a better reach to the water it also has to do with your trailering height i think ram-lim suggests 18-22" ball height to obtain the proper angle for dry-launch. don't forget to spray lube your bunk carpet too I learned that the hard way first time i launched my boat alone pushed her off the bunks and everyone for miles i'm sure heard the chalk board screech. Good luck!


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## jmrodandgun (Sep 20, 2013)

I did it with an ez loader. It's a bitch, especially if you're working with a galvanized trailer. The two main things you need to do is is lower the frame of the trailer closer to the axle. I kept my leafs rather than convert over to torsion but I had to modify the fenders but they are plastic so it's no biggie. Next thing you need to do is lower the rear bunks and put a big keel roller on the rear cross member. Once you get the trailer as low as it can go, and the rear bunk as low as it can go you can start messing with weight distribution. I You're also going to want to change out your winch to a numerically higher gear ratio. Not only are you now launching dry but also loading dry.

What makes it a pain in the ass is lowering the bolster brackets on a galvanized trailer. Welding them on is a pain and the factory brackets may or may not get the rear of the bunks low enough. Thankfully I was able to get low enough by drilling new holes in the bolster bracket itself. Drilling holes in a galvanized trailer is asking for trouble, the brackets are cheap so throw a few spares in your parts bucket.

Don't forget to add a walking board. I used a 2x6 with skateboard grip tape.

One last thing. You may or my not be able to move your axle forward. Check your tongue weight to be make the call. Also, if you opt to keep your leafs like I did, it's plausible to raise the rearmost spring hanger only. Try that first, you may get lucky and not have to mess around with it too much. Since you have an aluminum trailer you can weld the bolster brackets directly to the frame which will help. 

I heard some discussion the other day about Isopthalic Polyester Fire-Retardant Resin I-beams as trailer bunks. Might be worth checking into.


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

Good post above. A torsion axle is the fastest way to lower a trailer, but there are other options that get you most of the way there. Is your axle above or below the spring? If below, you might be able to mount the axle above the spring and thereby lower the trailer the diameter of the axle. You'll likely need to attach bump stops to the bottom of the trailer frame over the axle to prevent it from slamming into the frame after a particularly big bump. The great thing about a dry launch trailer is that you can launch at really crummy ramps, but just remember that really crummy ramps are often at the ends of really crummy roads where ground clearance can be important.

Nate


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## redsonfly (Jun 8, 2007)

WhiteDog70810 said:


> Good post above. A torsion axle is the fastest way to lower a trailer, but there are other options that get you most of the way there. Is your axle above or below the spring? If below, you might be able to mount the axle above the spring and thereby lower the trailer the diameter of the axle. You'll likely need to attach bump stops to the bottom of the trailer frame over the axle to prevent it from slamming into the frame after a particularly big bump. The great thing about a dry launch trailer is that you can launch at really crummy ramps, but just remember that really crummy ramps are often at the ends of really crummy roads where ground clearance can be important.
> 
> Nate


Thank you for the responses, it has given me the information to analyze my trailer and perform the necessary modifications.
I especially ike not having to re engineer the trailer by changing to another axle, my axle is indeed below the trailer springs, so that will make a difference for sure, and the brackets that hold the bunks can be re-drilled and lowered. Adding a roller to the back of the trailer I have would be quite simple.
Thank you al for the great ideas and taking the time to share them!


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## AfterHours2 (Aug 2, 2010)

If you can get a torsion axle with the same size spindles as the one you have now, it shouldn't cost over $200 to do the swap. I personally prefer the torsion axle over standard just because of the maintenance. If your planning on using the trailer for a long time, it would be a wise investment.


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

AfterHours2 said:


> If you can get a torsion axle with the same size spindles as the one you have now, it shouldn't cost over $200 to do the swap. I personally prefer the torsion axle over standard just because of the maintenance. If your planning on using the trailer for a long time, it would be a wise investment.



I have a torsion axle and have waxed my bunks. If there is enough water I can dry launch but its hard to load it dry
I also forgot about the slick bunks once. Bam....screeeeech


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

My new trailer started out with torsion axles, so I was ahead of the game there. I lowered the rear of my bunks by 3 inches and left the front alone. I had to lower the side bunks as well and raise my winch stand so the boat eye met the bow stop correctly. I've got an 18" roller I'm replacing the 12" roller in the picture with. If I moved the axle forward it would be even more effective, but I'm going to leave it alone for now. I can now dry launch without getting the rims wet, and I can recover on most ramps without dunking the hubs.


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