# Df20a pull start problem/adding alternator



## Subtraction (Dec 21, 2021)

Hello, I have a 2017 Suzuki Df20a which is the pull start only with manual tilt/trim model.

Supposedly the alternator is an “option” local dealer was of no assistance. It would seem there is a “battery charging kit” anyone able to direct me on what exactly I’d need to get?

Again the dealer was of no help with this issue either… if I happen to accidentally pull the starter cable too far out it’ll get stuck fully extended. If I put it into gear and get under way after about 15 seconds it’ll retract itself back in.

But the handful of times it’s gotten stuck and the engine is off… I have to remove the cowling and take off the bolts for the starter assembly. Once they’re all loose and I jostle it around the cable will suck back into the assembly.

Anyone have suggestions on how to go about fixing this properly?

Thank you!


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Make sure your bolts are not so tight they are causing the rope to not retract. Could be binding it up?


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## Subtraction (Dec 21, 2021)

That would make sense with the whole loosening the bolts and jostling around the assembly. I got the outboard from my dad sine he wasn’t using it any longer. It’s got maybe 20 hours on it at most and he claims it did it since day one.

Id taken it to a local suzuki dealer to have them troubleshoot that and do all the suggested maintenance stuff. They claimed there were no issues and couldn’t figure out what I was talking about in regards to the pull start getting stuck.


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## Hairball (May 8, 2016)

The battery charging kit includes a rectifier/regulator and associated wiring and attaches to the engine where the electric starter would go it you had the electric start model. The alternator windings are already on the engine. It is not hard to install. Just bolting the rectifier/regulator in place, connecting some wires, tying up the wires, and connecting to the battery with you own writing. Instructions are included. I purchased the kit online from a company that deals with Suzuki outboard parts.


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## Hairball (May 8, 2016)

I believe 32000-89L03 is the current kit part number


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## Subtraction (Dec 21, 2021)

Hairball said:


> I believe 32000-89L03 is the current kit part number


WoW thank you so much! I’d seen that part number but it seemed too cheap/simple to be all I needed! Very much appreciate that write up and part number!


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## michaelgxx (10 mo ago)

Subtraction said:


> WoW thank you so much! I’d seen that part number but it seemed too cheap/simple to be all I needed! Very much appreciate that write up and part number!


Fortunate you do not need a part for Yamaha. I paid more for a 40 HP carb part than for a 4 blade prop for my new 30 HP Suzuki. The 2003 Yamaha did not have EFI just the old Flintstones style carbs.


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## Subtraction (Dec 21, 2021)

michaelgxx said:


> Fortunate you do not need a part for Yamaha. I paid more for a 40 HP carb part than for a 4 blade prop for my new 30 HP Suzuki. The 2003 Yamaha did not have EFI just the old Flintstones style carbs.


I keep debating trying to find one of those 2 stroke Yamahas either a 30 or 40. But that’s my big concern is having to throw a bunch of hard to source and/or expensive parts at it. More speed would be fun yet realistically I spend 90% of the time with the motor trimmed up and using the trolling motor. So I figured I’ll try and stay satisfied with this Df20a for now.

Ordered that battery charging kit from boats.net. I’m gonna have a 60ah Dakota lithium dl+ batteries that they say can be charged with an alternator unlike my current Amped Outdoors. Was thinking I might be able to run off just that single battery by itself with the alternator instead of my current 2 battery setup of 1x 60ah and 1x 100ah lithiums.


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## Finsleft258 (Oct 7, 2018)

Subtraction said:


> That would make sense with the whole loosening the bolts and jostling around the assembly. I got the outboard from my dad sine he wasn’t using it any longer. It’s got maybe 20 hours on it at most and he claims it did it since day one.
> 
> Id taken it to a local suzuki dealer to have them troubleshoot that and do all the suggested maintenance stuff. They claimed there were no issues and couldn’t figure out what I was talking about in regards to the pull start getting stuck.


It's the recoil spring. They get a little bit of rust build up or the grease dries out and they "stick" meaning the coils can't freely slide against one another. A good silicone grease fixes the issue in most cases. Open up the assembly and apply the grease between the coil sections almost like packing a bearing. Be careful though. You don't want to have the coil jump out of its capture points. They can be a PITA to reinstall. If it is super corroded, you may need to remove it and clean it out replace it.


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## Subtraction (Dec 21, 2021)

Finsleft258 said:


> It's the recoil spring. They get a little bit of rust build up or the grease dries out and they "stick" meaning the coils can't freely slide against one another. A good silicone grease fixes the issue in most cases. Open up the assembly and apply the grease between the coil sections almost like packing a bearing. Be careful though. You don't want to have the coil jump out of its capture points. They can be a PITA to reinstall. If it is super corroded, you may need to remove it and clean it out replace it.


Thank you! I’m going to try and tear into it this weekend and will do as you suggested.


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