# Conchfish 16 Whipray skiff Build



## Sethsawyer

Conchfish 16 build.

Hey Guys,

This will be my first posts here on microskiff. I finally took the plunge and started building a Conchfish, and since everyone else is documenting their builds I thought why not. Well, feel free to comment with any ideas or recommendations. 

In my Conchfish 16

I will be modifying the spray rails to look more like Chris's 10wt.
No liner to keep the hull as light as possible.
I will use the rounded/crowned transom, and add spacers for trim tabs.
Toying with the idea of a removable poling platform.




Last week I Cut both half stations together proud of the station lines and then used a belt sander to sand to the final shape.


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## Sethsawyer

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Built a standard ladder strong back on wheels. Leveled my strongback, and Plumbed a top and bottom string to align my stations.


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## Sethsawyer

View attachment 70340






Taped my stations with masking tape


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## 17376

What did you do different with the spray rails?


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## bryson

Looking good! Did you shape the edge of the keel? I came close to doing that with mine but ended up deciding just to square cut it.

You building it in GA? Would be cool to have a little east coast get together at some point. I think Travis is in Jax, the cedar strip one is in Pompano, and there's a guy in upstate SC that's doing one too.


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## 17376

Bryson what do you mean shape the keel?


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## bryson

Travis Smith said:


> Bryson what do you mean shape the keel?


It looks like he cut it to the true keel dimensions (not the 3/8 half breadth) and then shaped the edge back to match where you would cut it if you were doing a square cut. It will give a little surface for the foam strips to land on instead of having them just touch the corner. You can see it in the last 2 pictures pretty good.


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## Sethsawyer

I’ll get more technical if the lines look really good after I strip the hill, but basically I adjusted the two spray rail points vertically.

Station
Transom:-9/8”
1: -6/8
2: -3/8
3: no change
4: + 3/8
5: + 6/8
6: + 10/8
7: + 16/8
8: + 20/8
9: + 21/8
10: + 21/ 8

Gives it a nice taper very similar to older higher spray rail whiprays


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## Sethsawyer

Yes building in GA

And yes I shaped the keel 

Gonna start stripping in 3/4 h80 
Divinitycell


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## Sethsawyer

Cut my strips to 1 1/2” so I can use clamps to align the strips between stations.
Butted two 8’ strips together and glued them together to get full length strips.
Ran strips along the hull in several spots to check the stations to make sure everything was fair. Found one station that one of my points needed to be fixed.


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## Sethsawyer

Using harbor freight clamps to keep my strips aligned.

Added 1/2” to the dimensions closest the base line on chime a, and butted it up to the inside corner. Both chines will be a little proud of the strips, but I plan to sand flush.
Using toothpicks to make a fair joints between strips and chines while gorilla glue dries.


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## bryson

Moving right along! What is that in the second and third pictures that looks like hot glue?


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## Sethsawyer

bryson said:


> Moving right along! What is that in the second and third pictures that looks like hot glue?


Yes, I used hot glue so I can move my clamps and start the next strip and keep everything fair. You have to keep the hot glue gun really cool or it puts divots in the foam when you pop the glue off. I have just used hot glue in the past stripping cedar, and it keeps things moving really fast. I will end up puttying some divots, but I felt like that will be way less work than puttying strips that do not stay fair between stations. 

I Prefit my strip using clamps, add glue screw and clamp everthing fair, and then use hot glue to lock it in place, and in about 30 seconds hot glue is dry, and then I can move my clamps and start the next strip. I beveled my foam strips to eliminate gaps between strips. I didn't spend a ton of time on this but it only takes a second with a sanding block and 40grit sandpaper to get it pretty close to perfect.


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## jonny

Looking great so far man. Still confused by the keel. I guess it will make sense when you get there. What are you gonna do with the floor? Double core with some thick core? No floor makes for a big step onto the deck. Doing a false floor instead of a liner doesn't add much weight. And gets those steps to a comfortable 15" or so. Allows for a chase or flotation foam if wanted.


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## Sethsawyer

I shaped my keel closer to the true shape of my bow to make aligning strips a little easier. My current plan is no false floor. Still undecided though. I am going back and forth between double box with the open/cooler spot for my rear deck, and the standard single hatch capped rear.


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## Sethsawyer

Little more progress


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## Sublime

Sethsawyer said:


> I shaped my keel closer to the true shape of my bow to make aligning strips a little easier. My current plan is no false floor. Still undecided though. I am going back and forth between double box with the open/cooler spot for my rear deck, and the standard single hatch capped rear.


Sounds oh so familiar. I think I have settled in on no false floor, but doubling the core on the bottom. Double boxes in back as it is the most natural way to sit and run a tiller. I'd really like no hatch up front, but I am still undecided about that. 

What are your plans for power?


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## Sethsawyer

planning on 25hp 2 stroke if i can find something decent or Yamaha 25hp 4 stroke.


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## Guest

Looking great!


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## Pole Position

If you dont mind me asking, did you compare the cost of foam vs cedar strips, and if so, approximately how much difference was there?


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## Sethsawyer

Pole Position said:


> If you dont mind me asking, did you compare the cost of foam vs cedar strips, and if so, approximately how much difference was there?


I originally planned on building in cedar

Price was pretty close from my rough estimates and based on Travis's build. foam to strip the hull 
4x sheets of 3/4"
1x sheet of 1/2" or 3/8" 
around 850-900 

you have to do around 3/4" x 3/4 strips with cedar and factoring the waste from ripping the cedar to size and scarfing joints the price difference wasn't great enough to justify the extra work.

If anyone knows the guys who built the cedar strip conchfish they could give you their cost. for the bare hull.


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## Sethsawyer

Hey, What size trim tabs would you guys recommend for a Conchfish 16. . I am planning on cutting out partial pockets and mounting my tabs horizontally, and before I start cutting foam I want to get my tabs. What do most Whiprays have?

12x9?


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## 17376

12x12


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## jonny

I am running these and really like them. They are not as sensitive to adjustment. Like the bigger tabs. All my previous skiffs had 12x9. Which are for designed for boats much larger. And they really move those little boats around. The short tabs offer clearance like a pocket. But without the noise from recessed pockets. The only draw back back. Is that they don't help as much as big tab for staying on plane at slower speeds. But I'll take the that slight draw back. For the better trim and clearance. They are also stronger. Due to the all metal connection from the actuator to the tab. The tabs that I have broken in the past. Was the plastic piece from the actuator to tab. I would really look into a false floor. If you are already gonna double core. The weight difference is maybe 5 pounds. And you have a level walking surface. And better step height. I have had no floor models. And the curved floor is a bit annoying at times.

http://www.lencomarine.com/index.php/products/trim-tabs/limited-space


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## Pole Position

jonny said:


> I am running these and really like them.....


Have you got a link to which brand/model you are talking about?


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## Sethsawyer

Got her stripped. 

Tomorrow I will clean up the edges and get her prepped for the fill coat and putty.


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## Sublime

Awesome. And I am a total slacker on my build.


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## Guest

Kicken butt brother! Lookin great!


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## jonny

Sorry forgot the link
http://www.lencomarine.com/index.php/products/trim-tabs/limited-space


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## Sethsawyer

Ran the orbital sander over the hull. I cleaned up and rounded the edges. I should be ready for my fill coat and putty tomorrow.


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## albrighty_then

Sethsawyer said:


> View attachment 71292
> View attachment 71294
> Ran the orbital sander over the hull. I cleaned up and rounded the edges. I should be ready for my fill coat and putty tomorrow.


How do you feel about the high of your strong back? My back kills me if I lean over too much.


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## albrighty_then

Sethsawyer said:


> View attachment 71292
> View attachment 71294
> Ran the orbital sander over the hull. I cleaned up and rounded the edges. I should be ready for my fill coat and putty tomorrow.


How do you feel about the high of your strong back? My back kills me if I lean over too much.


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## Sethsawyer

I'm 5'5" so to much higher would be a pain to work on the center of the boat. It is a pain to work on the lower spray rail, but I wouldn't raise it much.


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## makin moves

The only problem I see is how easy you make it look! People are going to say I can do that look how easy it is. Beautiful work!


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## Sethsawyer

thanks, for the encouragement guys.


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## Sublime

I hope you have been working on this for over a year, but just now getting around to posting pictures.


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## KurtActual

Damnit. I REALLY want to build one of these! Love the pics of the stripped hull. Looks so good.


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## jonny

Sublime said:


> I hope you have been working on this for over a year, but just now getting around to posting pictures.


That's was exactly my thoughts. He must have had a stash of pics from the last twelve months. And just uploaded them in few days. To make the rest of us feel incompetent.


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## devrep

I'm not a boat builder but doesn't the strong back need to stay level and straight in every direction? I see you have it on wheels and it looks like you wheeled it outside. does this mess anything up?


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## Sethsawyer

Yep, usually to set up your Stations you level your strong back and get everything true after that if nothing bends/flexes while wheeling it around it would still create a fair hull. The hull is no longer attached to the strong back So even if it shifts a little now shouldn’t be a big deal. I plan to wheel it to the starting location and check for level before I glass to make sure I don’t have any twist in the hull.


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## millerrep

Really looks good! We may see diab and corecell selling 1 1/2 strips.


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## mtoddsolomon

This looks awesome. How many boats have you built? I’m dying to build one and you’re making it look way too easy


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## Sethsawyer

This is my first big boat build. I have built cedar and composite canoes, but nothing this big.


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## TheAdamsProject

mtoddsolomon said:


> This looks awesome. How many boats have you built? I’m dying to build one and you’re making it look way too easy


I am thinking the same thing. Too cool.


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## Sethsawyer

Did my puttying and fill coat. I mixed up too much putty, and I ended up doing a messy job. Seemed to cure way faster than the neat epoxy. Ended up sanding more than I wanted, but it came out pretty good. I used pvc for my upper spray rail fillet and a big popsicle stick for my lower. I will build a ledge, clean up my shear line, check everything for level, and then I should be ready for glass.


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## flyclimber

Are you adding the poling strakes?


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## Sethsawyer

Yes, Being a light and short boat the strakes will definitely help when poling.


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## Sethsawyer

Built my ledge to lay up a lip of glass. Once I set up my ledge it is obvious my shear line is messy. I wish I had a ledge before I stripped. I will be adding a lot of small strips of foam, and puttying them in before I can glass. I will cover my ledge with clear packaging tape to make sure everything releases.


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## texasag07

Wow all I can say is wow!


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## jbayley

bryson said:


> Looking good! Did you shape the edge of the keel? I came close to doing that with mine but ended up deciding just to square cut it.
> 
> You building it in GA? Would be cool to have a little east coast get together at some point. I think Travis is in Jax, the cedar strip one is in Pompano, and there's a guy in upstate SC that's doing one too.



Any info on the one being built in upstate SC? I am located in Greenville and I’m Interested in buying the plans... would love to get in touch with the builder up this way.


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## flyclimber

jbayley said:


> Any info on the one being built in upstate SC? I am located in Greenville and I’m Interested in buying the plans... would love to get in touch with the builder up this way.


Link is here. https://www.microskiff.com/threads/conchfish-178-build-sc-lowcountry.63748/page-2#post-577094


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## bryson

Hey @jbayley, the guy building in the upstate is @Capehorn 19, but he doesn't have a build thread on here. The link @flyclimber posted is for my build - I'm in SC, but in the Lowcountry.

I'll take this to PM so we don't derail Seth's thread, but I'm up that way a good bit since my wife's family is from there. Maybe we can all meet up.


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## Sethsawyer

Instead of a lip of glass I decided to define/support my deck with core. This will allow me to overlap glass layers to completely glass my deck and hull together.


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## Sethsawyer

I also plan to router out pockets on the hull for trim tabs. I will mount the hinges horizontally in the cutouts on the bottom of my hull.


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## KingFlySC

Dude this thing is looking killer. I have been planning on starting a Bateau LM18 later this year but all y'all with conchfish builds are swaying me.


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## Sublime

Looking good. Thanks for the dimensions. Been trying to decide on my overhang.


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## Sethsawyer

Travis used a 2.5" overhang. I just had the 1.5" strips left over.


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## Ralph.the.fisherman

Excellent build. If I only had space, time, and skill to do something like this. Along with an understanding wife. Think your gheenoe is getting jealous?


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## Sethsawyer

Got my trim tab cutouts finished.


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## millerrep

Just sitting here staring at this. Your hull looks like a machine cut it, the consistent lines and radii are really nice. Best luck !!


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## Sethsawyer

Thanks for all the positive comments guys. My hull is ready for glass, but I am waiting for the weekend. My plan for glass.

1. Us my blower to blow off all the dust, bugs, and crud off the hull.
2. Scrub the hull down with a green scrub pad and water.
3. Wipe it clean with clean water and a rag and let it dry.
4. Glass the first layer. Glass layers butted up(not overlapped) trimmed at the spray rail. mix about 1 cup 16oz epoxy at a time roll it on and then squeegee all the excess epoxy out of the glass being especially careful of any places epoxy can pool. No spots should look shiny. It should all have a nice Matt finish. 
5. Check the first layer every hour or so until the first layer is no longer sticky, You should still be able to dent the epoxy with a fingernail easily. (partially cured epoxy will still form a chemical bond with the next layer) 
6. Glass my second layer butt glass layers, and cover the whole hull.
7. Repeat for my final whole layer of glass. I will place a 3" on biax strip at the bow and lower chines at this stage.
8. When this layer is no longer tacky, but still not fully cured I will add my first fairing coat.

All layers should lay on top of partially cured epoxy eliminating any chance of blush, and making a chemical bond. If any layer cures hard I will scrub with water and sand before I glass the next layer.


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## bryson

Sethsawyer said:


> Thanks for all the positive comments guys. My hull is ready for glass, but I am waiting for the weekend. My plan for glass.
> 
> 1. Us my blower to blow off all the dust, bugs, and crud off the hull.
> 2. Scrub the hull down with a green scrub pad and water.
> 3. Wipe it clean with clean water and a rag and let it dry.
> 4. Glass the first layer. Glass layers butted up(not overlapped) trimmed at the spray rail. mix about 1 cup 16oz epoxy at a time roll it on and then squeegee all the excess epoxy out of the glass being especially careful of any places epoxy can pool. No spots should look shiny. It should all have a nice Matt finish.
> 5. Check the first layer every hour or so until the first layer is no longer sticky, You should still be able to dent the epoxy with a fingernail easily. (partially cured epoxy will still form a chemical bond with the next layer)
> 6. Glass my second layer butt glass layers, and cover the whole hull.
> 7. Repeat for my final whole layer of glass. I will place a 3" on biax strip at the bow and lower chines at this stage.
> 8. When this layer is no longer tacky, but still not fully cured I will add my first fairing coat.
> 
> All layers should lay on top of partially cured epoxy eliminating any chance of blush, and making a chemical bond. If any layer cures hard I will scrub with water and sand before I glass the next layer.


That's pretty much what I was thinking as far as primary bonds between layers, except that I plan to have a small overlap rather than butt joints between cloth. Are you butting them up strictly to save some fairing time? Also, how wide is your cloth (i.e.: where do you expect the butt joints to be)?


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## Sethsawyer

yeah just cutting some fairing, but butting joints is a pain so I may overlap them a little bit. 50" glass

joint at the centerline for 1st layer

3rd layer just flip the side of the full sized glass.


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## DuckNut

Don't butt the glass - overlap. Then overlap on the opposite side for the next layer. Overlap 2 -3" over centerline for final.

Be careful of the water. If you still have foam exposed you could trap water in the tiny pits and fishers and that is undesireable.

You are doing a superb job.


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## 17376

I wouldn’t use water either..


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## sjrobin

If you have not considered it, any bolts or screws in the hull need to have a phenolic base installed flush in the foam. Bow eye, transom tie downs and trim tabs


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## Chris Morejohn

sjrobin said:


> If you have not considered it, any bolts or screws in the hull need to have a phenolic base installed flush in the foam. Bow eye, transom tie downs and trim tabs


Sorry to jump in here but do not ever use Phenolic in a core skiff ever anywhere. It absorbs water, will exspand and cause high bumps. Seen it sooooo many times in other skiff builders including HB skiffs. It’s great stuff for old school sailing boat blocks and deck hardwear pads.
Use higher density core, compression tubes, high density powdered fillers mixed with the resin you’re building with, or just build in with multiple layers of 10 oz cloth. 
For the bow keel area....
Use multiple 10 oz cloth strips instead of BIaxel cloth. Way better abrasion resistance as the layers and weave is tighter. Biaxel will peel off or fracture. 
Just my 2 cents here.


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## DuckNut

Sethsawyer said:


> mix about 1 cup 16oz epoxy at a time roll it on and then squeegee all the excess epoxy


If you go this route have all of your mixes premeasured and ready to mix together. Time is critical at this point and you don't want to be playing around with measuring.

I would not go this route. I would mix up 1/3 of what I need and have the other mixes sitting on the side line (IF I was working alone). Better yet is to have a friend do the mixing while you are spreading.

Start to finish is crucial.


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## 17376

I lay out two rows of solo cups one row of red for resin one row of blue for hardner. Have them all pre filled to your desired amount. 

Pour them as you need into a mix bowl. I use a drill with paint mixer on it for about a minute


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## millerrep

I’m a fan of wiping / washing with warm water and shot of ammonia. Then clean water rinse done the night before. Run a fan in the shop all night to insure its dry. Keep some headbands handy it may be hot, and dabbing up sweat is a pain. Staging some batches can work well. Man, love the sound of the squeegee with a perfectly wet layer of glass. Excited for you !


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## Chris Morejohn

sjrobin said:


> My point is use a material other than foam and cloth for all fasteners. Also especially important in the cap for the poling platform and all hinges and the cockpit deck if you are going to fasten anything to the cockpit deck. HB still uses a
> type of non water absorbent glass phenolic for fasteners. Bolts will compress even
> high density foams. Chris, I have not looked at the Conchfish plans in detail so you may have included how to plan fastener locations and best methods to support fasteners


There is so much good advice here. 
While working a Isla Marine I saw so many raised up decks from HB and other skiff builders using Phenolic in the decks for compression. 
I will draw some of what I do up and post on my blog. The thing is if you know in advance where your hardware is going to go then a real high density core put in place will work.
But if you decide to add something later and it’s not there then you have to think things out.
One way is to drill your holes out for the fastenings then redrill a bigger hole from the underside and then backfill with WEST MARINES high density filler. Once cured you can redrill and this can help in compression.
You could install a compression tube from the underside. These can be small pipes in glass or metal. You then use a backing plate to hold them in place till the boats are tightened up. Now the deck hardware can’t compress these tubes. They are used in sailboat rigging thru bolts in most masts.
If getting towers made custom you can get wider feet installed. I like having a single 1/2” bolt welded to the middle of the pad. Then the down tube is welded over it. Now whenyiu install its only one bolt right in the middle of the pad so great caulking and the pads 1 bolt gets an even compression. Very clean deal, but you have to plan ahead. All my stern and bow pushpits on my sailboat are done this way.

The easiest way to deal with epoxy Blush is to use peel ply. This is a very light Dacron type cloth you wet out on the last layer of the layup. Basically you lay up your part and then lay on this cloth, feels like laying on a flag cloth. I use the resin that’s there and just add what’s needed to lightly wet out. 
Once all is cured you then just grab the edge of this cloth and peel it of. It takes all the surface blush off with it. I use it all the time in epoxy building. Saves all the washing and sanding.

Remember that epoxy resin is not very forgiving when mixing. You have to be very accurate in the ratios.


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## Battfisher

Wiping with Acetone won’t adequately remove blush?


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## Chris Morejohn

Battfisher said:


> Wiping with Acetone won’t adequately remove blush?


Acetone just dilutes it and you end up just wiping all he diluted blush ove the hull. If you use lots new ragand lot of acetone then it can get cleanish. What happens is you contaminate the small voids and such.
For a small part- area it’s ok but a whole hull. You will have so much fumes yo will be at risk for fire.
Use peel ply.


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## Battfisher

Chris Morejohn said:


> Acetone just dilutes it and you end up just wiping all he diluted blush ove the hull. If you use lots new ragand lot of acetone then it can get cleanish. What happens is you contaminate the small voids and such.
> For a small part- area it’s ok but a whole hull. You will have so much fumes yo will be at risk for fire.
> Use peel ply.


I’m massacring the interior of a ‘79 Gheenoe at a snail’s pace, so I have a couple of small patches that I need to glass over. I’ll hit them with acetone. I am almost done, so I’ll need to clean the entire interior before I prime and paint. I’ll do the soap and scrub then.


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## Sethsawyer

Glassed two of my three layers this weekend. I Had a few small air bubbles in the inside corners of chines. I cut the glass off the bubbles and sanded and patched with the next layer. I ended up doing half the hull at a time for my first layer which allowed me to not feel rushed.


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## RJTaylor

sjrobin said:


> My point is use a material other than foam and cloth for all fasteners. Also especially important in the cap for the poling platform and all hinges and the cockpit deck if you are going to fasten anything to the cockpit deck. HB still uses a
> type of non water absorbent glass phenolic for fasteners. Bolts will compress even
> high density foams. Chris, I have not looked at the Conchfish plans in detail so you may have included how to plan fastener locations and best methods to support fasteners


G10 works great for this.


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## Sethsawyer

Ok, I am about to start making my poling/spray strakes. I will attach after I fair.

Those that have whiprays or Chris if you see this. 

looking at the plans it looks like the poling/spray strakes look to be about

6' long

1.5" tall, 2" wide with a inside edge at a 90 degree angle to the hull. 

does this sound about right?

Also this will cause the strakes to stick out past the bottom of the hull more and more as you head closer to the aft of the hull. Should I taper the strakes height from 1.5" to O" as I head aft to match the center height of the hull?


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## Chris Morejohn

Seth Your skiff is looking great. Your tabs inset is clean. Nice that you showed everyone how it’s done. You can bolt right through the hull bottom and just have big fender washers inside or a strip plastic or fiberglass.
The reverse spray strake that I first used on a one-off skiff I built in core in 1996 was just a radiused 1”x3/4” strip of clear fir wood that I temporarily screwed and glued down to the finished faired hull. I then filleted as shown. After curing I glassed over with 2 layers of 7oz. Cloth. The cloth is not needed for strength. Being glued on will be just fine. It’s just a good base for painting and oysters.
I like to leave them off till last for ease of fairing.
When you glass over just give yourself about a 1” strip on the hull. Then you just have to lay a putty layer down that and onto the hull by another 1”. This will fair in quickly.
To me the positioning deal is making sure the front edge is not above the waterline. So for your build you will float in 4” or less of water. The run aft should go just far enough to not be too much deeper than the hulls arched bottom. The main thing with these is to catch and deflect the hull spray coming out just in front of you.
I am 6 hours behind east coast time here in Hawaii. I will be building 2-3 one-off skiffs this next winter in NC to record in videos and photos for the book I’am writing. I want to meet as many of the CF builders I can then so will look you all up.


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## Pole Position

Chris: if you don't mind me asking, where in N.C. are you planning to relocate?


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## Chris Morejohn

Pole Position said:


> Chris: if you don't mind me asking, where in N.C. are you planning to relocate?


Mt. Olive for the duration of my build- book project.


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## K3anderson

Wow. That is all.


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## devrep

hi Chris. as a former resident of the PNW it is a beautiful place to live but very PC. I'm thinking names like "spankthemermaid" will drive the snowflakes into meltdown  hopefully BC is better than Oregon and Washington states in that respect.


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## mtoddsolomon

devrep said:


> hi Chris. as a former resident of the PNW it is a beautiful place to live but very PC. I'm thinking names like "spankthemermaid" will drive the snowflakes into meltdown  hopefully BC is better than Oregon and Washington states in that respect.


Think he's talking about Mt. Olive, North Carolina


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## Chris Morejohn

devrep said:


> hi Chris. as a former resident of the PNW it is a beautiful place to live but very PC. I'm thinking names like "spankthemermaid" will drive the snowflakes into meltdown  hopefully BC is better than Oregon and Washington states in that respect.


Ha! Well I’am a good ole southern born boy myself. I am a first born American from a Swedish mom an a Cuban dad that both immigrated to America and met in Santa Barbara. I was born in La Jolla San Diego California. 
Kinda funny to think of a west coast kid being involved in east coast boats.
I built my first flats all core skiff in Key Largo in 1983 at 23 years old to my design.
My wife is Canadian, we love BC and the PNW so are in the process of relocating out there selling our Bahamas home and making the move west.
Our oldest daughter lives in Ft. Lauderdale and is going to have our first grandchild in a couple weeks. 
Rachel and I will spend the fall and winter in NC working on my book, plans business, videos and build a Couple 2-3 skiffs to use in recording all the info I need to go along with how to build skiffs etc.
NC is close to the mountains ,the Cape and the grand kid.Will be a nice change of pace from sailing life.
I’ve never worried about putting my foot in my mouth and not being PC.


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## devrep

mtoddsolomon said:


> Think he's talking about Mt. Olive, North Carolina


in a previous post he explained that the NC move was temporary, then BC.


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## Sethsawyer

Glassed my transom with three layers of 10oz. Scrubbed my hull with water and scuffed with sandpaper. I then laid my glass up so I can glass my last layer tonight.


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## DuckNut

I think you're going to finish before BB.


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## Guest

DuckNut said:


> I think you're going to finish before BB.


Maybe, but I am good with it.


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## State fish rob

Chris Morejohn , Welcome to NC. I’m fairly new to this site , the guys on here hold you in very high esteem. You have a lot to be proud of. Good luck in your endeavors


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## devrep

Sethsawyer said:


> View attachment 74176
> View attachment 74178
> View attachment 74174
> View attachment 74180
> View attachment 74182
> 
> 
> Glassed my transom with three layers of 10oz. Scrubbed my hull with water and scuffed with sandpaper. I then laid my glass up so I can glass my last layer tonight.


you gotta be getting excited...


----------



## Sethsawyer

Outer hull is glassed. Reinforced the bow with a 1”, 2”, and 3” wide strip of 10oz. I was really careful with this layer, and I very carefully checked and rechecked to make sure there were no air bubbles in the corners or edges. When I found one I used the roller to push glass towards the bubble if it was in an inside corner. If the bubble was on an edge I used the roller to pull glass away from the edge, and then dabbed with a little epoxy. It is really easy to make bubbles in corners squeegeeing the hull so most of my squeegee strokes where towards the inside of the chines.


----------



## Smackdaddy53

That’s just bad ass


----------



## Guest

Looking good!


----------



## devrep

nice!


----------



## seapro17sv

devrep said:


> nice!


I've been following your build, and you're doing an exceptional job. Will you be adding the fin keels, or leaving them off? I helped my buddy Don with his Conchfish build, and now in the process of helping out another buddy, Scott, with his build. How many yards of the 50" cloth have you used, and how much do you think will be needed total to finish? Was 4 sheets of foam enough to plank the hull, and will you be buying more for bulkheads. Thanks for any answers, just trying to put together an order. We have the stations on the strong back and ready to go. I can't wait to see what you do on the inside after the flip. Great work so far, very impressive, and fast and cleanly done. Mike


----------



## Sethsawyer

My current plan is no keels, but I have been Toying with the idea of using Aluminum angle iron screwed into the lower chines kinda like tabs. That way I can drag the keels across oysters and be fine. If they get torn up I could grind them down or replace em. I am too worried about composite fins and oysters. 

Materials used so far for hull and outside glass:

1 sheet of 1/2” for the chine flats
4 sheets of 3/4” to plank the hull
I have enough 3/4 to double my transom thickness and some 1/2 and 3/4 scrap
3.7 gallons of epoxy
About 2.5lb of micro balloons
Maybe a 1/2lb of silica
33yds 10oz glass


I will use 1 sheet 1/2” for bulkheads
3 sheets 3/4” for deck, spray strakes and misc
i bought 15 gallons of epoxy 
My guess on glass. 80yds
My guess is I will use no more than 10lbs of glass bubbles and about 2lbs-3lbs of silica. 
Travis could chime in if my estimates are off.


----------



## seapro17sv

Sethsawyer said:


> My current plan is no keels, but I have been Toying with the idea of using Aluminum angle iron screwed into the lower chines kinda like tabs. That way I can drag the keels across oysters and be fine. If they get torn up I could grind them down or replace em. I am too worried about composite fins and oysters.
> 
> Materials used so far for hull and outside glass:
> 
> 1 sheet of 1/2” for the chine flats
> 4 sheets of 3/4” to plank the hull
> I have enough 3/4 to double my transom thickness and some 1/2 and 3/4 scrap
> 3.7 gallons of epoxy
> About 2.5lb of micro balloons
> Maybe a 1/2lb of silica
> 33yds 10oz glass
> 
> 
> I will use 1 sheet 1/2” for bulkheads
> 3 sheets 3/4” for deck, spray strakes and misc
> i bought 15 gallons of epoxy
> My guess on glass. 80yds
> My guess is I will use no more than 10lbs of glass bubbles and about 2lbs-3lbs of silica.
> Travis could chime in if my estimates are off.


Thanks Seth, that's a big help. On my Buddy Don's Conchfish he added the fins, but left off the poling strakes. The boat poles like a dream, strakes not needed, and the fins work great in high speed tight turns. I'm blown away by the boat in general; light as a feather, poles with ease, drafts about 3" without passengers and a 25 Yamaha, top end 28mph with stock prop. Jumps up on plane immediately with almost zero bow rise. I've been poling my FS18 for 3 years and it has its share of road rash from Oysters, but I have 3 coats of epoxy and Graphite powder under the Awlgrip, and none of the scratches have gotten down to the glass. Here is a pic of Don's with the fins. Cool looking for sure, definitely better looking than Aluminum angle stock. Just glass the bottoms really heavy and they'll last forever. Mike


----------



## Sethsawyer

You might be convincing me. 

Is that keel 1/2 core, tapered and glassed or wood? And how long did you build the keel?


----------



## Chris Morejohn

seapro17sv said:


> Thanks Seth, that's a big help. On my Buddy Don's Conchfish he added the fins, but left off the poling strakes. The boat poles like a dream, strakes not needed, and the fins work great in high speed tight turns. I'm blown away by the boat in general; light as a feather, poles with ease, drafts about 3" without passengers and a 25 Yamaha, top end 28mph with stock prop. Jumps up on plane immediately with almost zero bow rise. I've been poling my FS18 for 3 years and it has its share of road rash from Oysters, but I have 3 coats of epoxy and Graphite powder under the Awlgrip, and none of the scratches have gotten down to the glass. Here is a pic of Don's with the fins. Cool looking for sure, definitely better looking than Aluminum angle stock. Just glass the bottoms really heavy and they'll last forever. Mike
> View attachment 74590


Glad you like the design and Donny’s build. The fins are there to act as keels when turning to help guys that don’t know how to turn at high speeds. They are also the to catch that spray that comes out the stern area and direct it aft. Thanks for the photo. 
The fact that you all are building to my specs you will end up with a very light strong skiff. Lighter than an all carbon Chittum skiff because of many factors, no Gelcoat, better build tolerances, simple no gimmick interiors etc. the angle aluminum idea I posted a couple years ago on my blog. I suggested it for guys that turn at high speeds and don’t ease the throttle for a second to get the chine to dig in. 
The CF design will not slide at all even without this keel. But I like the keel myself.
Can’t wait to see the hull flipped. And the simple interior.


----------



## seapro17sv

Chris Morejohn said:


> Glad you like the design and Donny’s build. The fins are there to act as keels when turning to help guys that don’t know how to turn at high speeds. They are also the to catch that spray that comes out the stern area and direct it aft. Thanks for the photo.
> The fact that you all are building to my specs you will end up with a very light strong skiff. Lighter than an all carbon Chittum skiff because of many factors, no Gelcoat, better build tolerances, simple no gimmick interiors etc. the angle aluminum idea I posted a couple years ago on my blog. I suggested it for guys that turn at high speeds and don’t ease the throttle for a second to get the chine to dig in.
> The CF design will not slide at all even without this keel. But I like the keel myself.
> Can’t wait to see the hull flipped. And the simple interior.


When we built Don's we used Okoume for the chines and spray rails, any reason for using 1/2" foam instead? Do the fin keels add any drag and reduce speed at all, and if the boat won't slide without them, what's the reason for adding them? Just trying to get ready for Scott's. We have the stations on the strong back, just need to pick up materials. Thanks guys. Mike


----------



## seapro17sv

Sethsawyer said:


> You might be convincing me.
> 
> Is that keel 1/2 core, tapered and glassed or wood? And how long did you build the keel?


Forgot to answer the other questions. His keels are foam, but length I can't recall offhand, maybe Chris will chime in. My guess is 32-36"


----------



## Chris Morejohn

seapro17sv said:


> Forgot to answer the other questions. His keels are foam, but length I can't recall offhand, maybe Chris will chime in. My guess is 32-36"


Here’s the hull lines with a scale on it. I’am waiting at a bus stop so don’t have my ruler with me.
They are not needed.


----------



## Sethsawyer

seapro17sv said:


> Forgot to answer the other questions. His keels are foam, but length I can't recall offhand, maybe Chris will chime in. My guess is 32-36"


Planned the build to be all composite Mostly for resale.I would glass the flats with 4oz before I install or use 3/4” if I do another build. The 1/2” has a little sag between stations and I will have to fair it more than I wanted to.


----------



## Sethsawyer

Spread a pretty thick fairing coat on the hull. I Didn’t get it stiff enough and it sagged in some spots. Next time I will make sure it is peanut butter consistency. Added fairing to a few low spots due to the sag and started sanding.


----------



## bryson

Looking great!


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## Sethsawyer

Ok, a couple questions. I am hoping to be done fairing by next weekend, and I am about to order my paint.
*About how much paint will be needed for a 16ft boat?*
I feel pretty confident rolling and tipping so I need something that I can roll and tip. Awlgrip is pretty popular, but I don't know if it is worth the $$$.
*Anyone use any of the other paints that might be a bit more affordable and still get great results?

Also, I want to do an epoxy primer any recommendations?*


Also, after I fair with a microballoon fairing mixture most of the research says to seal with epoxy. 
*If I am using an epoxy primer should I still do a coat of neat epoxy?

thanks*


----------



## fjmaverick

I have been impressed by the results I see with rustoleums marine coatings.


----------



## Guest

A high build epoxy primer should suffice. 

Liquid coverage... sq ft x thickness desired in mils / 1604 will get you very close always! Just round up!


----------



## Sublime

I'm going to do some more research into Epifane's line of paint. Most of their stuff is brush, roll or spray and is wet sandable and repairable. The Boatworks Today has some paint vids also. I think one is on the Quantum 99 line of paints by Engineered Marine Coatings


----------



## Bluwave

Sethsawyer said:


> Ok, a couple questions. I am hoping to be done fairing by next weekend, and I am about to order my paint.
> *About how much paint will be needed for a 16ft boat?*
> I feel pretty confident rolling and tipping so I need something that I can roll and tip. Awlgrip is pretty popular, but I don't know if it is worth the $$$.
> *Anyone use any of the other paints that might be a bit more affordable and still get great results?
> 
> Also, I want to do an epoxy primer any recommendations?*
> 
> 
> Also, after I fair with a microballoon fairing mixture most of the research says to seal with epoxy.
> *If I am using an epoxy primer should I still do a coat of neat epoxy?
> 
> thanks*


Awlgrip is great for the nonskid but a bad idea for the hull. You'd want to use Awlcraft 2000 if you ever want to buff scratches or fix dings in the paint.


----------



## seapro17sv

Sublime said:


> I'm going to do some more research into Epifane's line of paint. Most of their stuff is brush, roll or spray and is wet sandable and repairable. The Boatworks Today has some paint vids also. I think one is on the Quantum 99 line of paints by Engineered Marine Coatings


I can't speak for anything but Awlgrip because that's the only paint I've used on boats for 25 years. It's very pricey, but, it is easy to work with, a rock hard finish that will never fade or chalk, retaining a shine for many years. It's not repairable by buffing out, but I think their Awlcraft is if you're going to spray. Not sure though since I have never used the Awlcraft. Quarts are the smallest size, so you need to buy at least a quart of each color you'll be using, plus the catalyst and reducer. Definitely runs into some serious money, but you'll never need to paint the boat again due to sun damage, fading, chalking, etc. I would say you would need 2 quarts of the main hull and deck color, and a quart each of any other color used. For each quart you need a pint of catalyst, then you can get away with a quart of reducer because you don't use as much. I've always used the Awlgrip 545 primer, but on the last boat I used the System 3 Yacht Primer and I'll never use the 545 again. Much nicer to work with, and not toxic, being a water based epoxy. It has a light grey color instead of bright white, but it's a dream to work with in comparison. You would need at least a gallon, and you can order it through Boat Builder Central for $100 a gallon.


----------



## Bryson Turner

Sethsawyer said:


> Ok, a couple questions. I am hoping to be done fairing by next weekend, and I am about to order my paint.
> *About how much paint will be needed for a 16ft boat?*
> I feel pretty confident rolling and tipping so I need something that I can roll and tip. Awlgrip is pretty popular, but I don't know if it is worth the $$$.
> *Anyone use any of the other paints that might be a bit more affordable and still get great results?
> 
> Also, I want to do an epoxy primer any recommendations?*
> 
> 
> Also, after I fair with a microballoon fairing mixture most of the research says to seal with epoxy.
> *If I am using an epoxy primer should I still do a coat of neat epoxy?
> 
> thanks*







Let me know if you need any grab bars, poling, or casting platforms! Would be happy to help


----------



## 17376

I’d recommend Interlux perfection!! It goes on very smooth and easy. I have used Awlgrip, Interlux and others. Awlgrip is PITA to put on. You also can’t remove runs and polish it. Save the money too!


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## BassFlats

I believe Seapro 17sv is correct in Awlcraft is spray only.


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## Chris Beutel

System 3 Yacht Primer is great to work with plus it's water clean up. I've only painted one boat and I used Interlux Perfection and it turned out great. I rolled and tipped it and it looks like it was sprayed on. You will need to buy some thinner but it's really easy to use.


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## Pole Position

Fwiw, I got an email from Jamestown Distributors today saying the Interlux was on sale--may be worth checking out.


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## SeaDrifter

Very impressive work and the speed of your progress!



Michael


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## 17376

Where did you use 1/2”?


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## Sethsawyer

Chine flats


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## Sethsawyer

Still fairing........


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## State fish rob

Too cool


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## Pole Position

Are you able to use that 1/2" Divinycell anywhere else--bulkheads maybe? I'd hate to have to buy a full sheet just for the flats...


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## Guest

1/2” is great for bulkheads and for hatch coring!


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## Sethsawyer

Ok, I am almost finished fairing.... well as good as i’m going to get for now. So instead of just turning the lights off and shining a flashlight along the hull to look for shadows(low spots) I Started fairing and puttying in the dark with a flashlight to show high and low spots. Just propped it against a putty knife to keep it from rolling. It really helped me focus on my trouble spots. I will add some epoxy with chopped strand/silica to my radius edges and fair. Add my spray/poling strakes. Fair that in then flip. I didn’t need as big of a radius as I gave my edges. If you look at my deck lip it has at most a 1/4” radius and the glass conformed fine.


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## Guest

Looks great!


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## bryson

Looking really good -- pretty smart idea to check your surfaces in the dark with a flash light.


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## DuckNut

A shop light mounted horizontal at the height of the hull and a straight edge will work great for casting shadows.

Great job.


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## Sethsawyer

I found a good deal on a merc 25hp two stroke in Wisconsin. My brother checked it out and picked it up. I will grab it when I visit in a few weeks. Now I need a trailer. I would like something I can dry launch, and buy In the Jacksonville or the savannah area. Any ideas/dealers or trailers already for sale would be great.


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## 17376

Advanced boat trailers Jacksonville.. AS1616 is a replacement for a Whipray/Conchfish


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## Rick88

I can get ramlin trailers at a great price if you decide to go that route also


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## Sethsawyer

Travis, I’ll check them out thanks.


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## DuckNut

What about having that Tig guy make you a true custom trailer to carry your custom skiff?


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## Sethsawyer

Cut my spray strakes. Ripped two 1” x 8’ strips of scrap 1/2”, and glued them together, and then set my table saw to 1” with a 30degree bevel. After some measuring my strakes will be 4’ long and placed 16” from centerline and about 12 inches past the lower chines.this should keep the front of the strakes no deeper than 4” and the rear level with the hull bottom. 

I also started making sharp chines by mixing chopped fiber and silica for durable chines. Put it in pastry bags to spread it easy. I used strapping tape attached to the hull to help keep one edge clean and keep it in place.


----------



## Panamakid

Travis Smith said:


> Advanced boat trailers Jacksonville.. AS1616 is a replacement for a Whipray/Conchfish


I am looking at this trailer as well. It’s $1395 in st. Pete few hundred more here in Jax.


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## Sethsawyer

Panama kid: What’s the contact info for the st.pete seller. Thanks


----------



## Panamakid

https://www.advantagetrailercompany...ilers-as1616-skiff-boat-trailer-Zn3b|lac.html


Let me know if your gona buy maybe we can make a deal on two


----------



## devrep

looks like a good price for an alum I beam trailer with torsion axle.


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## Sethsawyer

Cut my spray stakes leading and trailing edges to shape, layed down tape and then screwed them down. I will glass a few layers over tape, pull the tape trim excess glass and then bond to the hull with epoxy and probably some 4oz glass. This is so I can have 20oz or so of glass covering the strakes, but only have to fair the 4oz.


----------



## Sethsawyer

I Glassed my strakes and when I pulled the tape to clean up the excess glass I noticed I had a few air bubbles. I then drilled a few 1/8” holes at the air pockets and used a syring with some neat epoxy to fill the bubble. I was still not happy with my bow line so I ran a centerline string with a plum bob attached the the bow side of the string and started adding putty to try and get a “perfectly” straight bow line.


----------



## Sethsawyer

First round of bowline putty


----------



## 17376

Make sure you use something like thickened milled glass to make it very strong there! Doesn’t have to be that exactly..


----------



## Guest

Yes, you don’t want a sanding mix. You want a hard/structural mix for the keel/bowline or it will dent/chip on the trailer roller and bottom!


----------



## Sethsawyer

Travis/boatbrains thanks Good save. I used milled glass for my chines,but just slapped micro balloons on my keel. I will sand that down to glass at the bow line and re putty with milled glass.


----------



## Guest

Throw some cabosil/fumed silica in the mix too! Just spread it nicely because it will be hard as nails!


----------



## Sethsawyer

Trim tab pockets are set up so I will use stainless countersink machine screws that will sink into a fiberglass glass plate that is faired to the hull. 

Ok, spray strakes and my trim tab pockets took way longer than I thought, but the boat is pretty much ready to flip. I will do a coat of neat epoxy to seal everything and give me a solid base base for when I start sanding primer.


----------



## Smackdaddy53

That looks amazing!


----------



## SC on the FLY

really nice, what do you plan to cover the hull with?


----------



## Sethsawyer

Whisper grey awl grip was my original plan for paint, but after everyone’s recommendations I am still trying to decide. Going to go no floor, with a classic full front and rear deck for my layout.


----------



## Sethsawyer

View attachment 77610
Flipped her over for a minute to fair my rubrails. I couldn’t get to them on the strongback. I had to put station 2 and 7 in to get a look at what she will look like later.


----------



## KingFlySC

I really like what you did with the spray rails. Lines look great.


----------



## Sethsawyer

Kingfly: thanks for the compliment. 

Better view of the lines. 

When I added my deck/rub rail support I lowered the sheer 3/4” to look a little slimmer and cut down on windage since this boat will draft at least 3/4” less than the production version


----------



## DuckNut

Sethsawyer said:


> since this boat will draft at least 3/4” less than the production version


I doubt that. You'll have it so loaded down with celebratory beers you'll need a bigger motor.


----------



## Sublime

Sethsawyer said:


> Better view of the lines.
> 
> When I added my deck/rub rail I lowered the sheer 3/4” to look a little slimmer and cut down on windage since this boat will draft at least 3/4” less than the production version


Mine will be about the same depth but because I'm not doing walkable gunnels on mine. So I won't be laying out a whole cap and placing it on top. The windage factor makes a big difference in these boats.


----------



## Sethsawyer

I am about to cut my core foam for my sump pump and drain line. Have you guys just cut in your wet bilge a 6”x 4” or so spot for a bulge pump right in front of the drain plug or did you remove the foam in the whole wet bilge? Also any dimensions on the wet bilge? My plan is 20” wide transom. 10”x20” tilt upper opening tapering to a 6”x20” bottom of the hull bilge. Does that sound big enough? Thanks


----------



## DuckNut

The splashwell is just to catch some water when the wave comes over when you come off plane.

The other purpose is so you can clamp the motor onto the transome.

Make it whatever size you want and looks good on the cap. Little worry of water coming over the stern.


----------



## Sethsawyer

I am cutting foam and drilling holes so I can overfill and then redrill holes after I glass the interior for every bolt/screw going through or in the hull. 

Anybody have any brands of threaded inserts you use for a cooler or casting platform tie down. Looking at 1/4”, but I am not sure what will work best.


----------



## Guest

I use aluminum plate glassed into bottom of floor/decks for attachments like grab bars and such. I measure where these items are going and place the aluminum strategically. Then, I just drill and tap to size. Has never let me down! Just use some clear silicone or tefgel on your threads to avoid any galvanic reactions between the bolts and plate.


----------



## Sethsawyer

Coated the inside of the hull with neat epoxy, filled screw holes and seams with epoxy thickened with micro balloons-and a little silica, Sanded everything with 60grit, and then added filets, After those cured I scuffed up my filets with 60 grit. I may wait till next weekend to glass. I really like laying on no longer tacky, but “green” epoxy so I don’t have to worry about blush and sanding. 

The 2x2s are keeping the hull to shape. The hull wanted to bow out so I placed stations in the hull to determine the desired hull width and then screwed on scrap wood to the 2x2s to keep the hull at the right width.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Sethsawyer said:


> Coated the inside of the hull with neat epoxy, filled screw holes and seams with epoxy thickened with micro balloons-and a little silica, Sanded everything with 60grit, and then added filets, After those cured I scuffed up my filets with 60 grit. I may wait till next weekend to glass. I really like laying on no longer tacky, but “green” epoxy so I don’t have to worry about blush and sanding.
> 
> The 2x2s are keeping the hull to shape. The hull wanted to bow out so I placed stations in the hull to determine the desired hull width and then screwed on scrap wood to the 2x2s to keep the hull at the right width.
> View attachment 78946
> View attachment 78948


Seth, really looking good. For plates to tap into I use 1/4” fiberglass plates. This way there is never any issue of electrolysis to deal with later. You need about 4 threads to make the fastening never come loose. If making up plates layup matt and many layers of cloth. It’s cheap, light and if ever wet will not expand like aluminum can, will. The drain setup you did is fine. What everyone should think about is that part of the hull is under no load. Just make the bottom skin and the inner skin mate up. That’s enough. 

Another thing to think about is... a light skiff can add weight to it for a days fishing alone. A heavy skiff can’t ever get rid of that extra weight that’s already built in.


----------



## mtoddsolomon

Seth, This look incredible. Best home built boat I've seen since researching home built boats. Keep up the good work, I'm looking forward to seeing the final product.


----------



## DuckNut

Sethsawyer said:


> Coated the inside of the hull with neat epoxy, filled screw holes and seams with epoxy thickened with micro balloons-and a little silica, Sanded everything with 60grit, and then added filets, After those cured I scuffed up my filets with 60 grit. I may wait till next weekend to glass. I really like laying on no longer tacky, but “green” epoxy so I don’t have to worry about blush and sanding.
> 
> The 2x2s are keeping the hull to shape. The hull wanted to bow out so I placed stations in the hull to determine the desired hull width and then screwed on scrap wood to the 2x2s to keep the hull at the right width.
> View attachment 78946
> View attachment 78948


If the hull is bowing, it could be twisting as well. Take your string and go down the centerline and take some measurements and shore up like you did. If only off by a little you can correct that when you make the cap and squeeze the hull inside the cap.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

You have to support the keel of the skiff properly. If not the hull without its innner skin could bend if not watching out.
This means it’s good to have the keel, that is the centerline of the skiff supported its length. 
Once it’s sitting up right and perpendicular then you can check your beam measurements. 
Truth is at this stage if wanting a few more inches of beam then as long as the keels straight all you do is glass the inner skin, making sure the hull is not twisted.
To keep to my design beam the best way is to run a string down the middle, measure the beam at two points, like where you will put your forward bulkhead or one of the station molds. Once close-happy then put in a temporary support on the out side of the hull and then glass the inside. Once glassed she will be stiff and will be hard to twist.


----------



## Sethsawyer

Glassed up two 2.5”x2.5” 1/4” thick plates of glass that I will use to secure stainless plates that will have removable eyelets for securing a cooler that will act as my seat for a passenger. When I don’t need the cooler I can remove the eyelets and i’ll Only be left with the small stainless plates proud of the hull floor. I Routed out the spots for the plates, and then glued them in flush with the inside of the hull.


----------



## jonny

By far the cleanest home built so far. You are making it look easy. Which I know from my experiences it is not. I take it this is not your first rodeo.


----------



## Chris Beutel

Looking really good. I think trying to plan out everything you are going to need is the hardest part. Hopefully you will avoid that one moment where you say, "Man, I wish I would have done that." Your build is definitely helping me with my list of things to consider in my next boat.


----------



## Sethsawyer

Chris Beutel said:


> Looking really good. I think trying to plan out everything you are going to need is the hardest part. Hopefully you will avoid that one moment where you say, "Man, I wish I would have done that." Your build is definitely helping me with my list of things to consider in my next boat.



Agreed, though I am pretty sure no matter how well you plan you always think back and go man I wish I had done this or that. That’s when you start planning/building the next boat.

But seriously the biggest thing I have done wrong on this build is doing sloppy filets, puttying, or epoxy work. Every time I have had to sand and sand and sand because I didn’t do a really neat job Like forgetting to wipe up those epoxy gobs pushed out of the filet got me working a lot more carefully the next time.


----------



## Battfisher

But seriously the biggest thing I have done wrong on this build is doing sloppy filets, puttying, or epoxy work. Every time I have had to sand and sand and sand because I didn’t do a really neat job Like forgetting to wipe up those epoxy gobs pushed out of the filet got me working a lot more carefully the next time.[/QUOTE]

x2 on the clean up after epoxy application. My eyes aren't what they used to be, so even being careful I end up with that epoxy line above filets. I use the small barrel sanding/grinding head on my dremel (looks like 60 grit sandpaper wrapped around a tiny toilet paper roll) and it makes the removal fairly quick and easy.


----------



## Sethsawyer

I glassed the inside of the hull with my first layer of 10oz. I ended up getting a little ambitious and decided to do everything including the transom glass at once. This was a mistake. Felt rushed and didn’t check everything over as well as I could have. Because of this I have some air bubbles in a few corners and edges. I managed to fill most with a syringe, but the others I will cut out/ patch . I am going to wait till she cures and then cut out the bubbles sand these trouble spots scuff then do my next layer.






View attachment 79264


----------



## Sethsawyer

Ok, I am trying to decide on my front deck layout. On the one hand the classic whip ray single hatch.








Or a two hatch set up with one big dry hatch and the front hatch would be a shallow anchor locker/ spot to put my trolling motor plug. It would be a wet hatch that would drain to the cockpit or out the bow. Anybody have a skiff with a anchor locker like this and if you have a drain out the bow how does it look. I want to say I saw a maverick that had a bow locker that drained out the bow, but I don’t remember the drain set up.


----------



## bryson

Sethsawyer said:


> Ok, I am trying to decide on my front deck layout. On the one hand the classic whip ray single hatch.
> 
> View attachment 79582
> 
> Or a two hatch set up with one big dry hatch and the front hatch would be a shallow anchor locker/ spot to put my trolling motor plug. It would be a wet hatch that would drain to the cockpit or out the bow. Anybody have a skiff with a anchor locker like this and if you have a drain out the bow how does it look. I want to say I saw a maverick that had a bow locker that drained out the bow, but I don’t remember the drain set up.


I don't have much experience with either setup, but if I had a dedicated anchor locker and/or wet storage, I would love for it to drain overboard. Things that go in there can get fairly gross (especially with the pluff mud in the SC lowcountry), and it would save you from having to rinse the cockpit.


----------



## Sethsawyer

bryson said:


> I don't have much experience with either setup, but if I had a dedicated anchor locker and/or wet storage, I would love for it to drain overboard. Things that go in there can get fairly gross (especially with the pluff mud in the SC lowcountry), and it would save you from having to rinse the cockpit.


Same pluff mud Georgia. I really don’t want that muck all in my cockpit.


----------



## dldsm7

bryson said:


> I don't have much experience with either setup, but if I had a dedicated anchor locker and/or wet storage, I would love for it to drain overboard. Things that go in there can get fairly gross (especially with the pluff mud in the SC lowcountry), and it would save you from having to rinse the cockpit.


Agree with you Bryson. Been on a skiff with 2 forward hatches and having a dedicated one for the anchor and line has been great. That one didn't drain like you are saying, that would be a great little addition (if you don't mind a small hole in the front of the hull)!


----------



## Tigweld




----------



## Tigweld

I put a false floor in the anchor locker, above the waterline, and drilled a drain hole straight through the hull.


----------



## Pole Position

Where are y'all placing the trolling motor batteries?


----------



## Sethsawyer

Pole Position said:


> Where are y'all placing the trolling motor batteries?



Front dry hatch as far aft as possible


----------



## Sethsawyer

Once I got everything scuffed and cleaned up I used the last of my glass and some bigger pieces of scrap to do my second inner layer of glass to the upper spray rail. It came out almost bubble free, A couple small bubbles along the drain channel. I should be able to fill them by drilling a hole and filling with a syringe.

50yds of glass finished my outer 3 layers and two inner layers, and I have used 10 gallons of epoxy to glass and fair the outside of the hull, and do two inner layers, and that’s with wasting/ sanding away about a gallon of epoxy since I was new to fairing/ puttying.




















I am about to head to Michigan for a few weeks of vacation so there won’t be any updates till I get back.


----------



## 17376

You must not be getting any rain!! Today is the first day I’ve been able to do anything! It seems like we have had a foot of rain in the past week.


Glad you’re going on vacation.. now it will look like I’m flying through my build.


----------



## Sethsawyer

Travis Smith said:


> You must not be getting any rain!! Today is the first day I’ve been able to do anything! It seems like we have had a foot of rain in the past week.
> 
> 
> Glad you’re going on vacation.. now it will look like I’m flying through my build.



You are flying. Both Your conch fish are looking awesome. I am just hoping when I get to it my paint job looks as good as your ice blue one.


----------



## 17376

When you think you’re done fairing, fair some more lol!! Then high build primer and sand a little more


----------



## Sethsawyer

Lol, whoever said boat building was 90% sanding was speaking the truth. Sometimes it even feels like 99% sanding.


----------



## Guest

X2 on the high build primer & Follow with a sealer. You’ll want to be wet sanded down to 400 grit. Followed by a soap and water bath, a couple rinse downs, then wax and grease remover. Do these steps before primer, before sealer, before top coat and she’ll look great and no peeling paint!


----------



## Sethsawyer

What do you use as a sealer?


----------



## Guest

Standard 2k “non high build” primer is what I usually use. Use a contrasting color to your highbuild and your top coat. By the time you wet sand the “sealer” to 400 you will see any blemishes that need addressed.


----------



## seapro17sv

Boatbrains said:


> Standard 2k “non high build” primer is what I usually use. Use a contrasting color to your highbuild and your top coat. By the time you wet sand the “sealer” to 400 you will see any blemishes that need addressed.


Seth, Did you use just glass bubbles for the fairing prior to glassing, and are you using glass bubbles after glass for final fairing? I'm assisting my buddy Scott with his CF16 and I tried the bubbles, but don't like the way they spread, and when building plywood boats I've mixed in some micro balloons for what I thought was a smoother mix. Also, do you wet out the foam first before spreading the fairing mix, or just spread it over the dry foam? I've been following your build from the start, and keep going back to look at what you've done. You're doing a beautiful job. Mike


----------



## Guest

I’m not Seth but... always wet the foam out prior to glassing or you run the risk of delamination/separation of foam from skin. I won’t use glass bubbles/ micro balloons prior to glassing, they are meant for am easy sanding filler. I mix up a structural putty with fumed silica and maybe some chopped fiber depending on application.


----------



## Sethsawyer

Yes, following Chris’s recommendation I used micro balloons with a little silica for all gap filling, And fairing. The only places I used structural mixes were working on my bow fairing and filling my overly rounded chines after glass. The micro balloon mix is just as strong if not stronger than the foam core.

For foam gaps/ screw hole filling: I Wet out the foam and then while it’s still tacky I squeegeed my peanut butter consistency microballon/silica mix

For fairing the outside of the hull: After wetting out the last layer of glass and when it is still tacky Squeegee in your first fairing coat using micro balloons and a little silica. This will completely fill the weave. I will fair The inside of the hull after I tab in my bulkheads etc.

Spreading while the surface is wet/tacky let’s you use a really stiff fairing/filling coat and it will still spread well, stick well, and not sag.


Micro balloons insulate the epoxy so use slow hardener and expect about half the normal working time so don’t make big batches and get it spread on the hull ASAP


----------



## sidelock

Sethsawyer said:


> Once I got everything scuffed and cleaned up I used the last of my glass and some bigger pieces of scrap to do my second inner layer of glass to the upper spray rail. It came out almost bubble free, A couple small bubbles along the drain channel. I should be able to fill them by drilling a hole and filling with a syringe.
> 
> 50yds of glass finished my outer 3 layers and two inner layers, and I have used 10 gallons of epoxy to glass and fair the outside of the hull, and do two inner layers, and that’s with wasting/ sanding away about a gallon of epoxy since I was new to fairing/ puttying.
> View attachment 79746
> View attachment 79748
> View attachment 79750
> 
> 
> I am about to head to Michigan for a few weeks of vacation so there won’t be any updates till I get back.


Nice clean work !


----------



## Bluwave

Boatbrains said:


> X2 on the high build primer & Follow with a sealer. You’ll want to be wet sanded down to 400 grit. Followed by a soap and water bath, a couple rinse downs, then wax and grease remover. Do these steps before primer, before sealer, before top coat and she’ll look great and no peeling paint!


Correct me if I'm wrong, but why would you sand with 400 before high build primer? Awlgrip recommends 100-150 grit.

Also, they need to make sure they use the right high build primer. Awlgrip's high build primer is designed for use above the water line. 

Awlgrip High Build (above waterline) - https://www.awlgrip.com/products/primers/high-build

Awlgrip Pimer (below waterline) - https://www.awlgrip.com/products/primers/hullgard-extra


----------



## Guest

Bluwave said:


> Correct me if I'm wrong, but why would you sand with 400 before high build primer? Awlgrip recommends 100-150 grit.
> 
> Also, they need to make sure they use the right high build primer. Awlgrip's high build primer is designed for use above the water line.
> 
> Awlgrip High Build (above waterline) - https://www.awlgrip.com/products/primers/high-build
> 
> Awlgrip Pimer (below waterline) - https://www.awlgrip.com/products/primers/hullgard-extra


I meant to say take the sealer to 400, I take the primer to 220 though. The finer grit “to a point” will give more tooth for the paint to grab at the same time giving you a better visual of what the finished product will look like. The deeper the sand scratches are the more product you’ll have to apply to fill them and cover just to sand back off with a finer paper anyway.


----------



## seapro17sv

Sethsawyer said:


> Yes, following Chris’s recommendation I used micro balloons with a little silica for all gap filling, And fairing. The only places I used structural mixes were working on my bow fairing and filling my overly rounded chines after glass. The micro balloon mix is just as strong if not stronger than the foam core.
> 
> For foam gaps/ screw hole filling: I Wet out the foam and then while it’s still tacky I squeegeed my peanut butter consistency microballon/silica mix
> 
> For fairing the outside of the hull: After wetting out the last layer of glass and when it is still tacky Squeegee in your first fairing coat using micro balloons and a little silica. This will completely fill the weave. I will fair The inside of the hull after I tab in my bulkheads etc.
> 
> Spreading while the surface is wet/tacky let’s you use a really stiff fairing/filling coat and it will still spread well, stick well, and not sag.
> 
> 
> Micro balloons insulate the epoxy so use slow hardener and expect about half the normal working time so don’t make big batches and get it spread on the hull ASAP


Thanks Seth for the quick response. When my buddy Don built his CF16 last year Chris recommended just glass bubbles for the fairing prior to glassing, but I like to use 2 parts Bubbles, to 1 part micro balloons because I think it makes a creamier smoother spreading filler. I only use some silica on vertical surfaces to prevent sags. I think wetting out the foam first is the key though. Thanks for the info. Mike


----------



## Sublime

Hey Seth. Did you miter cut the 1 1/2" wide strip of foam here? I would think it hard to do since the angle is different at each station.


----------



## Sethsawyer

Hand beveled the foam strip to fit using a dry wall sanding block and 35 grit paper


----------



## Fritz

This is great stuff Seth!

I love the foam lip, and the ledge on the stations seems like a great idea, but aren’t you just moving the bevel from the lip to the hull by making the contact area for the lip square?


----------



## Sethsawyer

You will have to bevel or fill with thickened epoxy to make the deck lip/ sheer line flat to maximize contact with the deck with or without the foam lip.


----------



## DuckNut

Sublime said:


> Hey Seth. Did you miter cut the 1 1/2" wide strip of foam here? I would think it hard to do since the angle is different at each station.
> 
> View attachment 80900


I would guess the bevel would not be that hard if you used a flush cut saw. You would probably end up with a perfect mate.


----------



## Sethsawyer

Picked up my 25hp merc 2 stroke in Wisconsin.


----------



## Fritz

Seth,

You lowered your spray rail in the bow with the taper neutral at station 3 then rising slightly. Is that mostly aesthetic?

You stripped your entire hull with foam, I’ve seen another build where they used a large single piece of foam in the aft third or so, where the hull is flat. Did you consider this? Is it ‘six of one... half a dozen of the other?” Seems like might save some little bit of weight and work by going with large pieces when the section is flat enough.

Thanks,


----------



## Sethsawyer

Fritz said:


> Seth,
> 
> You lowered your spray rail in the bow with the taper neutral at station 3 then rising slightly. Is that mostly aesthetic?
> 
> You stripped your entire hull with foam, I’ve seen another build where they used a large single piece of foam in the aft third or so, where the hull is flat. Did you consider this? Is it ‘six of one... half a dozen of the other?” Seems like might save some little bit of weight and work by going with large pieces when the section is flat enough.
> 
> Thanks,


Taper is mostly aesthetic but lower spray rails will be dryer, but will slap in rougher sea. 

A lot of people use big pieces of foam to cover the aft bottom of the hull. I am not sure if you will save much weight ,but you will save time. I have just stripped canoes before so I stuck with something I have done before.


----------



## No Bait / Lures Only

Panamakid said:


> I am looking at this trailer as well. It’s $1395 in st. Pete few hundred more here in Jax.


Trailer price is a deal!


----------



## Sethsawyer

I’m back in town. Glassed my final inner layer of glass, and I am starting to fit up my bulkheads.


----------



## bryson

Killing it man, looking great!


----------



## Sethsawyer

What permanent fuel tanks are you guys putting in your conchfish. I want to order one but nothing seems exactly what I want.


----------



## 17376

Build a platform under the front deck that will hold two 6 gallon tanks. If they go bad, pull it out. I wouldn’t run aluminum...


----------



## Sethsawyer

Travis Smith said:


> Build a platform under the front deck that will hold two 6 gallon tanks. If they go bad, pull it out. I wouldn’t run aluminum...



Portable? Or permanent?


----------



## 17376

Portable... I know you said permanent.. but if you’re out in say the Everglades fishing for the week and you get a crack in a aluminum tank.. your trip is over. Get one in the portable tank, go buy a new one and carry on


----------



## 17376

This is what I’m doing in the CF for backcountry 16.


----------



## jglidden

http://www.moellermarine.com/moelle...n-permanent-below-deck-boat-fuel-tank-032519/

I currently plan on using this one, but that is subject to change

Edit: I will be able to remove it through my deck hatch


----------



## Guest

What size tank do you need? What dimensions are you working with. I went with a 12 gallon permanent from Sea star solutions/west marine. Price was fair and they have many dimensions available!

This is for a different design but you should be able to find something close.


----------



## 17376

Maybe I’m a moron or something.. I bought several of those from west marine and none of them over 15 gallons would fit my configuration. Maybe if my bulkhead was back further..


----------



## Sublime

Travis Smith said:


> This is what I’m doing in the CF for backcountry 16.
> View attachment 84500


Perfect. And a bungee to keep them from sliding back. I like it.


----------



## 17376

There is also a divider between the two.


----------



## Sethsawyer

Travis Smith said:


> Maybe I’m a moron or something.. I bought several of those from west marine and none of them over 15 gallons would fit my configuration. Maybe if my bulkhead was back further..


No fumes in the enclosed hatch? Portable tanks are way cheaper and I really only need about a 6-9 gallon tank. I just don’t want to cut corners.


----------



## Sublime

I want to say I saw an East Cape that had a portable tank in an "enclosed" hatch, but they had louvers or something in the bulkhead of a certain size that made it legit. For sure, not anything to mess with. I'm going with an open bulkhead so I may go the portable route.


----------



## firecat1981

USGC says a portable tank can be in a compartment that is open to the atmosphere. To be considered open, for every cubic ft of volume in the compartment, you must have 15sq inches of venting cut out.
It's not hard to achieve, but putting louvered covers on would make it sketchy.


----------



## Pole Position

Travis....are you accessing the gas tanks through a hatch or just leaving the forward bulkhead open? Also, where are you putting the tm batteries?


----------



## 17376

All of these edges are fiberglassed after being glued. You aren’t just relying on glue. A lot of manufacturers don’t even use a permanent glue/ thickened epoxy etc. 


SJ if aluminum tanks are the way to go, why do I continuously see people having to cut their decks or floors out to replace them? 

P.P the only way to build a “correct” hatch or tank is to have it so you can replace it through the hatch. I’m installing vents.


----------



## Sethsawyer

Ok, I wasted a lot of time measuring and looking up gas tanks, but I think I will probably vent and Use a 6 gallon portable as far forward as possible. After that I used a bunch of cardboard to make some patterns. for my rod holders and final deck supports. I am hoping to have all my bulkheads tabbed in by the end of the week.


----------



## DuckNut

Travis Smith said:


> SJ if aluminum tanks are the way to go, why do I continuously see people having to cut their decks or floors out to replace them?


Aluminum will last well past the point of plastic tanks cracking from exposure ONLY if they have airflow and are not in constant contact with water.

For some reason people think foaming them in place is a good idea. This is a recipe for rapid failure. Then they decided that coating them with coal tar is a better idea. One separation and you will get a hole corroded in the tank. Open air suspended so water goes away and the tank will last- any other condition - use plastic.


----------



## bryson

@Sethsawyer I know you're already past this point, but did you have to worry about blush with thickened epoxy?

I'm thinking primarily of the first layer of glass -- so you do a coat of neat resin on the foam to ensure a good bond, then while it's still green you add some thickened resin to fill the screw holes and gaps. Since I assume you'll want to sand it before glass, it will all need to cure completely. Do you need to wash any blush off first, or can you dive right into sanding?


----------



## Bob

For these light, low HP skiffs portable tanks make great sense. The biggest advantage for me is i don't haul my boat to a non-ethanol gas station to get it filled. I don't need to deal with filling a permanent tank from 5 gallon jugs with a funnel and splashing gas all over my deck. I can take my portable tanks when I'm running other errands and don't have the hassles noted above. I went out last Sat. for 6 hours and burned 2 gallons of gas. There's no need to have 12 or 15 gallons sitting in a permanent tank getting old. JMHO & everybody's got one.


----------



## Sethsawyer

bryson said:


> @Sethsawyer I know you're already past this point, but did you have to worry about blush with thickened epoxy?
> 
> I'm thinking primarily of the first layer of glass -- so you do a coat of neat resin on the foam to ensure a good bond, then while it's still green you add some thickened resin to fill the screw holes and gaps. Since I assume you'll want to sand it before glass, it will all need to cure completely. Do you need to wash any blush off first, or can you dive right into sanding?


I washed down first with water only then used a towel to pick up all the water/dissolved blush. Then sand. This Might of been overkill the slow cure marine epoxy hasn’t blushed much at all at these hot summer temps. Just make sure you let the water evaporate completely before glassing. If you guys figured out by looking at my glass pictures I didn’t succeed at laying more than one layer of glass at a time and usually did partial layers let those cure just hard enough to sand:bevel my glass edges. I Didn’t bevel my edge on my first layer and ended up with tiny air bubbles along the seam.


----------



## bryson

Sethsawyer said:


> I washed down first with water only then used a towel to pick up all the water/dissolved blush. Then sand. This Might of been overkill the slow cure marine epoxy hasn’t blushed much at all at these hot summer temps. Just make sure you let the water evaporate completely before glassing. If you guys figured out by looking at my glass pictures I didn’t succeed at laying more than one layer of glass at a time and usually did partial layers let those cure just hard enough to sand:bevel my glass edges. I Didn’t bevel my edge on my first layer and ended up with tiny air bubbles along the seam.


That's good to know, and good idea on beveling the edges. I plan to do basically the same thing, it sounds like. Lay a layer of glass, then lay the next layer while it's still uncured, but no longer tacky.

What did you use to bevel the edges? I have a card scraper I was thinking might work well for epoxy that's still pretty green.


----------



## Sublime

I'd love to use peel ply but dang it is expensive just to throw in the trash afterwards.


----------



## Sethsawyer

bryson said:


> That's good to know, and good idea on beveling the edges. I plan to do basically the same thing, it sounds like. Lay a layer of glass, then lay the next layer while it's still uncured, but no longer tacky.
> 
> What did you use to bevel the edges? I have a card scraper I was thinking might work well for epoxy that's still pretty green.


Beveled with an orbital sander just gunks up paper if you bevel a little early. I usually did a quick scuff with a sanding block if it was hard for my fingernail to dent the epoxy. Again probably overkill.


----------



## Fritz

Sublime said:


> I'd love to use peel ply but dang it is expensive just to throw in the trash afterwards.


USComposites had it for about $5.50 to $5.10 per yard, but that is a 60” by 36” yard. So closer to $3 per yard.


----------



## Sethsawyer

Sublime said:


> I'd love to use peel ply but dang it is expensive just to throw in the trash afterwards.


Peel ply’s weave is really tight so it does not conform to curves well.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Hey guys, last word from me for at least 6 weeks as I will be off sailing tomorrow morning on my last leg of the Pacific voyage. I have 2600 miles to go.
You can use vinegar, or diluted vinegar to clean off the blush. Do like Seth says and make sure it’s wiped up and flushed off. Let it dry.
The key thing is to get the core onto the jig how ever you see fit. Then remove the screws. Then lightly fair the hull with a foam sanding pad with a slow speed sander, or by hand with a flat board and 40 grit. Round all the edges about 3/8” so the cloth will bend around easily when glassing.
Vacuume all off well. Then fill big gaps with glass bubbles adding just 10% silica to thicken. Fair them off lightly.
Now you can resin coat the entire hull. If there are low spots don’t worry about them now. Just let cure, wipe off the blush if using epoxy resin and then start laying on your cloth.
You can lay the hull up in sections. I use a very sharp chisel to trim off the edges when just hard enough or when fully cured. I save all my grinding discs to use on sanding the edges when they are clogged up. The main thing is to just nock off the small Tits that will cause an air bubble. 
The cool thing about epoxy is you can have a bit more time to work the cloth and resin and no smell.
If using polyester resins you have a bit less time and the smell of styrene but polyester cures very quickly so you can just move right along and you don’t have to worry about the blush.
You all are doing a great job, 
Will be back online when I reach the matrix in BC.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Sethsawyer said:


> Peel ply’s weave is really tight so it does not conform to curves well.


Oh, if using peel ply don’t worry about getting it around the tight curves and into the hard spots in one piece.
Just use it for the big easy spaces.
I cut it up into smaller pieces and lay it over how ever it works. Does not have to look pretty as you are just going to peel it off soon. Looks kinda like a bad paper mache job. All the places you cant use it then just wipe off with vinegar or sand.
There are many types of peel ply. Some are stiffish. Stuff I use is light blue in color.


----------



## Backcountry 16

Sublime said:


> Perfect. And a bungee to keep them from sliding back. I like it.


That picture is from Steve's whipray he's the one that sold me on this easy tank replacement. I will catch hell for this next statement this is the last boat I plan on having.


----------



## Backcountry 16

Pole Position said:


> Travis....are you accessing the gas tanks through a hatch or just leaving the forward bulkhead open? Also, where are you putting the tm batteries?


 He's building it for me access thru the front hatch correct trolling motor will be in the back and removable. Batteries and gas tanks in close proximity scare me.


----------



## Sethsawyer

Decided to go with a moeller 6 gallon bow tank for my gas tank, and it fits like a glove. Glassed all my bulkheads, but I spent a long time figuring out my rod holders. I really was just trying to do basic rod holders and that still took a lot of time. Now just time to scuff and prep and I will be ready to tab everything in.


----------



## 17376

Seth what are you running on the back?


----------



## Sethsawyer

Travis Smith said:


> Seth what are you running on the back?


1995 25hp two stroke merc


----------



## 17376

Hell yea!! That 6 gallon tank will be plenty!


----------



## flyclimber

I know you are down the line, Are you doing forward facing or rearward facing tubes? If you can why you chose that path?


----------



## Sethsawyer

flyclimber said:


> I know you are down the line, Are you doing forward facing or rearward facing tubes? If you can why you chose that path?


Has to be forward to fit fly rods. I am doing three tubes on each side .


----------



## Sethsawyer

The 17.5 could go forward or back. I like rear facing better. ...... next build


----------



## sjrobin

Sethsawyer said:


> Has to be forward to fit fly rods. I am doing three tubes on each side .


This will result in having much more space for reliable electrical rigging.


----------



## Sublime

Another question please. I know you said the next build you would do things a little different here. But in this sketch, your rub rail is fastened to this highlighted face?


----------



## Sethsawyer

Been a little distracted with all the flood tides this week so not a lot of progress.


Sublime said:


> Another question please. I know you said the next build you would do things a little different here. But in this sketch, your rub rail is fastened to this highlighted face?
> 
> View attachment 86026


Yep, rubrail will go along there. I plan to build my deck on my hull instead of laying it up separate on a mild. So there will be a total of 5 layers of glass along that outer deck edge two from the outer hull one from my inner hull glass and two for the deck glass. I”l cut my deck foam to fit my hull and then drop in hatches, and then glass the deck onto the hull. If it works well I’ll show how I do it. I”l have to fair a bit more but everything will be glassed together inside and out.


----------



## Fritz

Seth I’m really looking forward to seeing how you do your deck, so I hope it works.

Are you buying the drop in hatches? If yes, where?


----------



## Sublime

Sethsawyer said:


> View attachment 86048
> Been a little distracted with all the flood tides this week so not a lot of progress.
> 
> 
> Yep, rubrail will go along there. I plan to build my deck on my hull instead of laying it up separate on a mild. So there will be a total of 5 layers of glass along that outer deck edge two from the outer hull one from my inner hull glass and two for the deck glass. I”l cut my deck foam to fit my hull and then drop in hatches, and then glass the deck onto the hull. If it works well I’ll show how I do it. I”l have to fair a bit more but everything will be glassed together inside and out.


So the 1.5" horizontal strip is consistent around the perimeter of the hull? Will be interested to see the process. Thanks for sharing.


----------



## Sethsawyer

Sanded down a 3/4” wooden dowel to make my drain tube. Covered the dowel in thin plastic painter floor covering plastic and taped it around the dowel with a tiny piece of tape in the middle. About three wraps of glass around the dowel. Everything dried and I slid the plastic and tube off the dowel and then twisted the plastic till it released. Then I drilled a hole in my transom and glassed the tube in with a structural filler and glass. I cut my cockpit drain into the foam before I glassed, but I wanted a little bigger drain channel so I took 1” pvc pipe placed it in my already glassed in drain channel covered it with packaging tape and layed up two layers of glass. Peeled and scuffed that up and then glued and glassed it down with an additional layer of glass. Then I started tabbing in my bulkheads. I used 3” strips of scrap glass to tab everything in and man the raw edges make a mess with all the little glass strings that slip out. I know it will all sand down, but It now makes sense why all the stitch and glue plans have you buy lots of fiberglass tape.


----------



## Fritz

Seth are you planning a garboard style drain plug or just a regular boat plug? I was thinking a threaded stainless plug would bridge the entire distance of the transom. Should be a lot easier to pull the plug and run the water out of your boat, doing it your way. 

I like that pvc drain idea, I might have to ‘borrow’ that idea.


----------



## Sethsawyer

Fritz said:


> Seth are you planning a garboard style drain plug or just a regular boat plug? I was thinking a threaded stainless plug would bridge the entire distance of the transom. Should be a lot easier to pull the plug and run the water out of your boat, doing it your way.
> 
> I like that pvc drain idea, I might have to ‘borrow’ that idea.


I didn’t say this but the pvc was just a mold. I pulled the plastic and then glassed down just the glass. 

Simple fiberglass tube with a standard drain plug. Not as pretty as a stainless threaded set up, but simple, no screws below the waterline, and will be easy to pull my plug for sure. Also for your trim tab pockets make sure you have a plan for what your screws will sink into . Chris recommended a 1/4” or so thick glass plate and then use short machine screws.


----------



## Fritz

I was thinking I could/might use through bolts on the back of the trim tab hinge line. The forward holes on the hinge will definitely need screws and I was planning just what you suggest. All screws would be easier.

Are you going all screws on your trim tabs?

I like that you pulled the pvc out, makes the inside diameter bigger and you don’t a couple extra feet of pvc. Thanks for clarifying!


----------



## Sethsawyer

Yep, all self tapping machine screws tapped into the glass plate. My screws do not poke through the inside skin so totally sealed.Then glass over that so no path for water to get into the boat.


----------



## Sethsawyer

Filleted and glassed everything else in today. Next up pvc rod tubes and a single pvc chase tube similar to how Travis did his conchfish and I’ll be ready to start working on the deck.


----------



## Sethsawyer

Ok, got my rod tubes (1” thin wall pvc from the big blue store) all set up. Haven’t glassed them in because I am going to run my drains out my lower rod tube, and hadn’t figured out exactly my plan till tonight. Got my venting for my portable 6 gallon tank all rigged. The tank I bought has a fuel gauge. I removed that and the glass plate. It already has a removable threaded cap with an o ring to seal in the glass plate so I made a 1/4” fiberglass plate cut to fit, and tapped a 1/4” connector to run my vent line. I will use a quick connect fitting on both my fuel line and vent so I can remove the tank to fill/mix oil. Cut and fit my deck foam. Deck took 3 sheets of foam with lots of scrap left over.


----------



## Backcountry 16

Sethsawyer said:


> View attachment 87518
> View attachment 87520
> View attachment 87522
> View attachment 87524
> View attachment 87526
> View attachment 87528
> View attachment 87530
> View attachment 87532
> View attachment 87534
> Ok, got my rod tubes (1” thin wall pvc from the big blue store) all set up. Haven’t glassed them in because I am going to run my drains out my lower rod tube, and hadn’t figured out exactly my plan till tonight. Got my venting for my portable 6 gallon tank all rigged. The tank I bought has a fuel gauge. I removed that and the glass plate. It already has a removable threaded cap with an o ring to seal in the glass plate so I made a 1/4” fiberglass plate cut to fit, and tapped a 1/4” connector to run my vent line. I will use a quick connect fitting on both my fuel line and vent so I can remove the tank to fill/mix oil. Cut and fit my deck foam. Deck took 3 sheets of foam with lots of scrap left over.


I'm also doing portable tanks interest in seeing your vents.


----------



## Sethsawyer

Backcountry 16 said:


> I'm also doing portable tanks interest in seeing your vents.


https://www.amazon.com/attwood-8838US6-Universal-Sprayless-Connector/dp/B007G2JFBA connected to tank

3/8" fuel line connected to 5/8" fuel line with a https://www.amazon.com/Reducer-Hose-Brass-Fitting-Water/dp/B07H2ZHNCM 5/8" vent line will connect to this an exterior vent that will be placed on outside of hull https://www.perko.com/catalog/fills_and_vents/67/gas_tank_vent_with_swivel_elbow/ or this one https://www.gemlux.com/954. I haven't decided on my vent. I will probably go with the flush mount gemlux.

I originally planned to just direct connect a 5/8" fitting to the tank, but then removal of the tank for filling is a pain, and your vent is always open losing gas while not in use. The 3/8" connector/line should still allow plenty of air into the tank while running these smaller outboards. The quick disconnect using the sprayless connector for the vent and fuel line should make it a snap to disconnect and pull the tank.


----------



## Fritz

Seth your boat is fantastic, I can’t wait to see how you are going to do your deck.


----------



## Sethsawyer

DISCLAIMER: I am not a pro and the way I built my deck may be inefficient, and require massive amounts of extra fairing, but it has allowed me to try different ideas and lay my foam core on the hull and see how everything will look. I have made more than one change after I have looked things over. Foam core is so forgiving, if you mess up all you need is a little gorilla glue and your deck looks like new. I also am coring my hatch gutters and plan to use only 1 layer of 10oz inside and outside the gutters and they should be more than stiff enough.






When I cut my deck, I cut it into three major sections that I can work on separately. The sections will join at the rodholders which are 1” thick so half inch overlap for the deck or gunnel pieces. I used 3/8 x 3/4” strips of core to define my overhang on my gunnels and decks.












I used a jigsaw to cut out my hatch openings.












i used two 3/4”x 3/4” stripspacers to make 1 1/2” deep gutters






1/2” x 2 3/4” core to make the 2” wide bottom of my gutter, and 1/2” x 2” core to make my inside lip.






Added some small pieces in the corners to keep my rounded edges.
I will round some edges, fill a few gaps, filet my gutters, and I should be ready for glass.







I used the foam cut out of the openings for the lid, though a little adjustment will be needed to account for the thickness of the glass.

I plan to glass the bottom of the deck, glue it down, fill the gaps between the deck pieces and then glass everything together and to the hull.


----------



## 17376

Looking good..


One layer of 10 oz inside and out on the gutters won’t be strong enough.. too much flex


----------



## bryson

Really looking forward to watching this unfold! With the care you've put into the hull I'm sure the deck will be top notch as well.


----------



## Sethsawyer

Watching all these other conchfish builds are great. I picked up a cool idea checking out @Fritz build from @Bob. I am using 1” thin wall pvc for my rod tubes and didn’t love how hard it was to get rods in and out so I hadn’t glassed them in thinking I might use something bigger, but I Fanned out my tubes using a heat gun and an oil bottle, and then I used a heat gun on my tubes to get the tube openings perpendicular to the bulkhead, and it is like night and day. I will have to shape my cutout in my bulkhead to get the tubes to sit flush, but I”m happy with how much easier the rods slid in and out.


----------



## yobata

I also use an oil bottle to help the rod slide in and out easier


----------



## sjrobin

Sethsawyer said:


> Watching all these other conchfish builds are great. I picked up a cool idea checking out @Fritz build from @Bob. I am using 1” thin wall pvc for my rod tubes and didn’t love how hard it was to get rods in and out so I hadn’t glassed them in thinking I might use something bigger, but I Fanned out my tubes using a heat gun and an oil bottle, and then I used a heat gun on my tubes to get the tube openings perpendicular to the bulkhead, and it is like night and day. I will have to shape my cutout in my bulkhead to get the tubes to sit flush, but I”m happy with how much easier the rods slid in and out.
> View attachment 89010
> View attachment 89012
> View attachment 89014


I like your process choice, but a two inch pvc pipe opening is too small at times, especially if a lot of fly rods are being exchanged and the wind is blowing.


----------



## Sethsawyer

sjrobin said:


> I like your process choice, but a two inch pvc pipe opening is too small at times, especially if a lot of fly rods are being exchanged and the wind is blowing.


I am still on the fence about whether or not i will go to 1 1/4" pvc. Though the flared inside diameter of 1" is 1.5"

Thanks


----------



## Sethsawyer

I should be ready to glass my deck down this weekend. *Who recommends fairing/painting before I glass my deck down? *It seems like it would be easier before I place the deck down. I plan to glass the deck to the inside of the hull, but I could still fair most of the interior. I am not going to be super crazy about my interior fairing, nonskid will cover most of the cockpit. Inside the hatches I am going to lightly fair and paint just to make it easier to clean.


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## 17376

Fair, run wires , paint do everything before the deck


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## 17376

You don’t need to glass the deck.. it’s plenty of strong with thickened resin


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## Chris Morejohn

Sethsawyer said:


> I should be ready to glass my deck down this weekend. *Who recommends fairing/painting before I glass my deck down? *It seems like it would be easier before I place the deck down. I plan to glass the deck to the inside of the hull, but I could still fair most of the interior. I am not going to be super crazy about my interior fairing, nonskid will cover most of the cockpit. Inside the hatches I am going to lightly fair and paint just to make it easier to clean.


Seth, I have completed my sail to BC so back online now.
The best way to secure the decks is to just fillet all the sheer in place in all the areas that you can get to. The easiest way is to bond the deck to the hull flange. Then just flip the skiff upsized down and you can then set it up on a couple of sawhorses. Now it’s real easy to fillet and radius in all the deck sheer, rod racks bulkheads to the deck. We did this to every HB skiff. I had aluminum tolls made up at a good height so it was easy to do. To roll your skiff you will need a couple of helpers. Just slide it outside and lay down a blanket or some foam or a couple of tires and she will be easy to tilt up and roll. Your skiff should be weighing around 300 lbs so not much weight. You are doing a fantastic job.


----------



## Fritz

Chris Morejohn said:


> Seth, I have completed my sail to BC so back online now.
> The best way to secure the decks is to just fillet all the sheer in place in all the areas that you can get to. The easiest way is to bond the deck to the hull flange. Then just flip the skiff upsized down and you can then set it up on a couple of sawhorses. Now it’s real easy to fillet and radius in all the deck sheer, rod racks bulkheads to the deck. We did this to every HB skiff. I had aluminum tolls made up at a good height so it was easy to do. To roll your skiff you will need a couple of helpers. Just slide it outside and lay down a blanket or some foam or a couple of tires and she will be easy to tilt up and roll. Your skiff should be weighing around 300 lbs so not much weight. You are doing a fantastic job.


Are you doing this upside down so gravity helps hold the bonding stuff down and in place?

Also, what are you using to bond with, is epoxy with silica good enough?

And welcome back, how was the sail?


----------



## DuckNut

Typically the deck slips over the hull, not inside. But I do not have the plans so I can not answer affirmatively.


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## Chris Morejohn

Fritz said:


> Are you doing this upside down so gravity helps hold the bonding stuff down and in place?
> 
> Also, what are you using to bond with, is epoxy with silica good enough?
> 
> And welcome back, how was the sail?


Like I said, bond the deck to the hull. When flipped over it’s very easy to stick your head up inside the hatches and around the gunnels to make the fillets now instead of when it’s right side up you have to do everything upside down. 
I recommend using 3M glass bubbles or QCell glass spheres as the putty mix. You can add 10% silica if wanting. Too much silica and it can get hot and leave cracks. Silica is ground up rock. Look at the spec sheets you have from me to see the putty radiuses needed. 
The sail was a real challenge, but I had a great time over the 31 day passage.


----------



## Smackdaddy53

Chris Morejohn said:


> Like I said, bond the deck to the hull. When flipped over it’s very easy to stick your head up inside the hatches and around the gunnels to make the fillets now instead of when it’s right side up you have to do everything upside down.
> I recommend using 3M glass bubbles or QCell glass spheres as the putty mix. You can add 10% silica if wanting. Too much silica and it can get hot and leave cracks. Silica is ground up rock. Look at the spec sheets you have from me to see the putty radiuses needed.
> The sail was a real challenge, but I had a great time over the 31 day passage.


That’s a heck of a solo journey Chris! Did you arrive with a buddy named Wilson?


----------



## Finsleft258

Chris Morejohn said:


> Like I said, bond the deck to the hull. When flipped over it’s very easy to stick your head up inside the hatches and around the gunnels to make the fillets now instead of when it’s right side up you have to do everything upside down.
> I recommend using 3M glass bubbles or QCell glass spheres as the putty mix. You can add 10% silica if wanting. Too much silica and it can get hot and leave cracks. Silica is ground up rock. Look at the spec sheets you have from me to see the putty radiuses needed.
> The sail was a real challenge, but I had a great time over the 31 day passage.


Question: Why are the 3m and Qcell adequate, but not silica? Silica sand may be crushed rock, but colloidal silica is a manufactured product. I'm fairly confident the latter is the only one available from fiberglass suppliers.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Finsleft258 said:


> Question: Why are the 3m and Qcell adequate, but not silica? Silica sand may be crushed rock, but colloidal silica is a manufactured product. I'm fairly confident the latter is the only one available from fiberglass suppliers.


Well I have been a seat of the pants builder all my life. I feel and see what happens over time in my own builds and others. Too much Cabosil or silica makes for a very hard fillet. Just not needed with an overall bond. The glas bubbles radiuses will be plenty strong for the bonds. It’s easier and it’s just what’s worked for me over the years. I like cabosil to help epoxy resin putty on vertical surfaces not to sag. It’s good for that. Microballons to me are not ever needed near any of my design builds. You don’t need to fair that smooth. To me it’s down to 120 grit then primer.


----------



## Sethsawyer

I was planning to filet and then glass in rod tubes. Or is this overkill as well?

would Filet be plenty


----------



## bryson

Sethsawyer said:


> I was planning to filet and then glass in rod tubes. Or is this overkill as well?
> 
> would Filet be plenty


I worry a little about the rod tubes too. I know it's pretty common practice, but the idea of PVC tubes being "glued" to fiberglass with epoxy just seems like it could develop cracks at the glue joint over time.


----------



## Finsleft258

Chris Morejohn said:


> Well I have been a seat of the pants builder all my life. I feel and see what happens over time in my own builds and others. Too much Cabosil or silica makes for a very hard fillet. Just not needed with an overall bond. The glas bubbles radiuses will be plenty strong for the bonds. It’s easier and it’s just what’s worked for me over the years. I like cabosil to help epoxy resin putty on vertical surfaces not to sag. It’s good for that. Microballons to me are not ever needed near any of my design builds. You don’t need to fair that smooth. To me it’s down to 120 grit then primer.


Too stiff. Got it. Obviously not cost effective for a one-off build, but what about using methacrylate products like Plexus? Would there be a benefit from the extra bond strength or would that still contribute to too much point loading at the interfaces?


----------



## seapro17sv

bryson said:


> I worry a little about the rod tubes too. I know it's pretty common practice, but the idea of PVC tubes being "glued" to fiberglass with epoxy just seems like it could develop cracks at the glue joint over time.


I've done PVC rod tubes and hatch drains on 3 Bateau Okoume ply hull boats, and rod tubes on my buddies HB Glades Skiff, 7 years ago with zero problems. Drill a hole in the bulkhead, rough up the PVC and use thickened epoxy to glue it in about 3/16" back from the face of the bulkhead. I over drill the diameter a hair and center the pipe using a little shim. If there's room I use a little trim router with a small round over bit and run it around the hole, if no room I hand sand. After the epoxy sets up I use fairing filler inside and out. Never had so much as a crack in the paint.


----------



## Sublime

Those look really good.


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## Sethsawyer

seapro17sv said:


> I've done PVC rod tubes and hatch drains on 3 Bateau Okoume ply hull boats, and rod tubes on my buddies HB Glades Skiff, 7 years ago with zero problems. Drill a hole in the bulkhead, rough up the PVC and use thickened epoxy to glue it in about 3/16" back from the face of the bulkhead. I over drill the diameter a hair and center the pipe using a little shim. If there's room I use a little trim router with a small round over bit and run it around the hole, if no room I hand sand. After the epoxy sets up I use fairing filler inside and out. Never had so much as a crack in the paint.
> View attachment 89924


awesome thanks, your FS18 looks great. I went through the bits and pieces you posted about the build. Great stuff


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## firecat1981

Well if it's that much of a concern you can always make glass tubes.


----------



## DuckNut

Finsleft258 said:


> Question: Why are the 3m and Qcell adequate, but not silica? Silica sand may be crushed rock, but colloidal silica is a manufactured product. I'm fairly confident the latter is the only one available from fiberglass suppliers.


Silica sand and colloidal silica are both made from quartz. Colloidal is made by heating the rock to extreme temperatures. The result is a particle with a very high surface area and hence becomes ridiculously hard.

Carbon Core has a pre made bedding compound that is designed for this and is a real nice product.


----------



## jglidden

I know a guy who could probably be persuaded to find some scrap fiberglass tubing and send it over to ya


----------



## Sethsawyer

Haven’t gotten much done. I have spent a ton of time researching electrical, figuring out what my wiring will look like Ordering all the little stuff to fit out my hull, and getting my hatch drains and chase tube fitted. My plan is to fair the cockpit. Glue all my rod tubes ext. in. Then paint before gluing my deck down. I still haven’t decided if I will paint my storage or just leave it raw to save some weight. Paint cleans so much easier though. Drainage tube is flexible 3/4”pvc that fits standard schedule 40 fittings. 1” chase tube with T’s to allow me to run wiring into or out of the front/rear hatch.


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## RogueTribe

Looking fire!


----------



## yobata

Sethsawyer said:


> View attachment 91404
> View attachment 91406
> View attachment 91408
> View attachment 91410
> View attachment 91412
> View attachment 91414
> Haven’t gotten much done. I have spent a ton of time researching electrical, figuring out what my wiring will look like Ordering all the little stuff to fit out my hull, and getting my hatch drains and chase tube fitted. My plan is to fair the cockpit. Glue all my rod tubes ext. in. Then paint before gluing my deck down. I still haven’t decided if I will paint my storage or just leave it raw to save some weight. Paint cleans so much easier though. Drainage tube is flexible 3/4”pvc that fits standard schedule 40 fittings. 1” chase tube with T’s to allow me to run wiring into or out of the front/rear hatch.


Seth, excellent work first of all!! Have you considered adding another 1" chase on the port side from the front compartment to the motor well for the gas line? I ran a chase on both sides because I liked the idea of a gas line not being in the same chase as electrical wiring


----------



## Sethsawyer

yobata said:


> Seth, excellent work first of all!! Have you considered adding another 1" chase on the port side from the front compartment to the motor well for the gas line? I ran a chase on both sides because I liked the idea of a gas line not being in the same chase as electrical wiring


Hadn’t planned on two chase tubes, but Definitely would make it easier to run future wires, if needed. One tube will be tight. 

Question: I am planning on having a bulge pump. Obviously I want my thru hull above the waterline, but how high do most people put them?


----------



## Smackdaddy53

Sethsawyer said:


> Hadn’t planned on two chase tubes, but Definitely would make it easier to run future wires, if needed. One tube will be tight.
> 
> Question: I am planning on having a bulge pump. Obviously I want my thru hull above the waterline, but how high do most people put them?


Mine is just a couple of inches below the rubrail. You don’t want to go too low or when you stand on that side of the skiff it will take on water.


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## DuckNut

Put your bilge about where the one is in the pic but run your tube up to and anchor it to the underside of the deck. This will have an air pocket and prevent water coming in.

Run an extra chase from bow to stern on both sides. So easy to do and make life so easy in the future if you need it.

Paint the hatches, seriously? It will add 4 oz's to the boat. This should be a no brainer.


----------



## Zika

This. You've worked too hard to start scrimping now.


----------



## Snookdaddy

I prefer to run the thru hull fitting in the back through the transom. Pretty much eliminates water coming in the boat.


----------



## flyclimber

Snookdaddy said:


> I prefer to run the thru hull fitting in the back through the transom. Pretty much eliminates water coming in the boat.


Not that it matters much but my bilge is in the back of the boat with the hose dumping out right beside the motor.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

View attachment 91960

Typical West Indies bilge pump setup. Hose just runs into the bilge. Does not help you when you forget to put the stern plug in when launching at the boat ramp though.


----------



## WC53

Chris,
I had seen an image that showed the CF with maybe the Lithium and beryllium to compare size, weight etc. I can’t find it again, would you have and idea of where to look 

Thanks


----------



## Chris Morejohn

WC53 said:


> Chris,
> I had seen an image that showed the CF with maybe the Lithium and beryllium to compare size, weight etc. I can’t find it again, would you have and idea of where to look
> 
> Thanks


----------



## WC53

Thank you sir


----------



## Sethsawyer

Fairing the inside of my boat makes me understand why boatbrains still isn’t finished with his skiff. Lol, puttying and sanding all these corners and edges takes a while. Again I realize what I am doing wrong right as I am getting close to finishing that step. Wasted some epoxy and filler and am sanding way more than a pro would ,but it is looking better each day


----------



## Guest

Looking great!


----------



## sjrobin

Sethsawyer said:


> Hadn’t planned on two chase tubes, but Definitely would make it easier to run future wires, if needed. One tube will be tight.
> 
> Question: I am planning on having a bulge pump. Obviously I want my thru hull above the waterline, but how high do most people put them?


Straight back through the transom above the pump. Short tubing run and simple access.


----------



## sjrobin

Also fuel line to port side, bow lights (electrical) starboard where the battery should be because most engine cowlings electrical exits starboard side. Simple but important location decisions.


----------



## Guest

Looking great!


----------



## Sethsawyer

Ok, a week of fairing and the before and after pic don’t look a whole lot different unless you look real close 

After placing my rear deck on my hull ( more than once). The rear hatch is just one big giant storage. Seems like it might be really tough to keep stuff organized. I could add one or two bulkheads to split my rear storage into two or three storage areas and keep the single hatch or break it into separate lids. 

Weight savings are not going to be noticeable. Only thing I lose it the ability to store really big stuff, but my 4 man tent and camping gear will still fit either way. 

Any opinions from people with a big single rear storage. Do you wish your storage was separated? and those with separate storage do you ever wish it was all one storage compartment?


----------



## Bob

If it was mine, I would keep it a large space and then use pull out bins/crates to keep things organized. Milk crates & 5 gal buckets are great for that. If you need to reorganize for a camping trip or for larger items then you have the space to accommodate them. If you put in permanent partitions you lose that flexibility.


----------



## Smackdaddy53

I like my large seat storage but if I was going to build my own the way I wanted I’d make it with customizable storage with partitions that can be moved like a tackle box.


----------



## hunterbrown

I would keep the back hatch undivided and use some kind of bins if you need to organize things. My boat has a monster back hatch and it’s great to be able to put larger things in there, a stripping bucket fits easily with all of the stuff I normally keep in there. Not as easy to undo a glassed in divider as it is to move a milk crate.


----------



## jonny

What I like is a crate/bins zip-tied to those DriDek mats. This keeps stuff in place. And the grid pattern allows easy customization. That you can easily change if needed. They are elevated off the floor. Which helps keep things dry. And allow wet things to air out. You can trim them easily to fit the whole area. The only draw back is they are a bit heavy. Maybe eight to ten pounds to do a big space. But they are tough and last forever. Plus they really protect the hull from scratches, dings and dents. Like if your buddy drops a anchor or something on it.


----------



## Pole Position

Like most others, I like the one large space; my only concern---and it doesn't appear to be an issue judging by the above pics--would be if you needed the additional dividers/bulkheads for added support for the deck as you will most likely have the weight of 2 people plus the poling platform to support ( ?? ) Lord knows, dont rely on anything I say....


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Sethsawyer said:


> View attachment 93666
> View attachment 93668
> Ok, a week of fairing and the before and after pic don’t look a whole lot different unless you look real close
> 
> After placing my rear deck on my hull ( more than once). The rear hatch is just one big giant storage. Seems like it might be really tough to keep stuff organized. I could add one or two bulkheads to split my rear storage into two or three storage areas and keep the single hatch or break it into separate lids.
> 
> Weight savings are not going to be noticeable. Only thing I lose it the ability to store really big stuff, but my 4 man tent and camping gear will still fit either way.
> 
> Any opinions from people with a big single rear storage. Do you wish your storage was separated? and those with separate storage do you ever wish it was all one storage compartment?



Lots of old fishing guides and guys my age have told me many times how they liked a locker to be big enough to climb into In case of a terrible lightening storm. 
When spearing crawfish and scalefish commercially in the Bahamas out of a 33’ Sea Vee we would get stuck out on the banks in huge lightening events. There were three of us. The driver and the diver would go sit on the bottom with the 2 hookahs available and I would climb into the anchor locker with no metal about.
Never got hit but it felt better than being exposed.
Another thing about big lockers is if you ever get stuck on a bank or broke down you can survive a nightof mosquitoes by being able to get in your locker.
None of those guides told me where their clients went though. Guess ignorance is bliss.


----------



## jonny

hunterbrown said:


> I would keep the back hatch undivided and use some kind of bins if you need to organize things. My boat has a monster back hatch and it’s great to be able to put larger things in there, a stripping bucket fits easily with all of the stuff I normally keep in there. Not as easy to undo a glassed in divider as it is to move a milk crate.
> 
> View attachment 93670
> View attachment 93672


What’s the dimensions on that lid? That’s a YUGE hatch!


----------



## Chris Morejohn

I am not kidding about where to hide in a lightening storm. Here’s a few examples in a Lithium skiff and Piranha 18. Helps being born short though.


----------



## Sethsawyer

Ok, while I am waiting a week or so for fairing epoxy to cure enough to prime the interior of my boat I am planning my poling platform. I am going to attempt to build my poling platform in carbon fiber. if it crashes and burns I will buy aluminum, but I think I can pull it off. 

What are the standard dimensions for the poling platform deck. 

Also, platform height. I am torn between 24" and 28" above the rear deck. who has a recommendation on height pro's and cons of taller than 24" or even taller than 28". Favorite height, i am interested in any suggestions. I plan to line up the rear of the platform with the transom instead of centering my platform on the transom to make it easier to pole solo.....or with my 50lb son on the bow. With the crowned rounded transom I lose some aft buoyancy. If this doesn't sound like a good idea let me know why you think pushing it farther aft is a good idea.


----------



## flyclimber

I can measure mine when I get home but it's not super tall, the thing I do like is when I have someone on the bow on a casting platform they are about the same height as I am and can see the same way I can from the platform. The sight lines are closer that way.


----------



## Sublime

I had the platform on my Spear built at 24” off the deck. I really liked it.


----------



## Tigweld

Deck size 30x20”,

15” outboard? If so 24” tall, from top of rear deck to bottom of platform deck


----------



## Sethsawyer

Tigweld said:


> Deck size 30x20”,
> 
> 15” outboard? If so 24” tall, from top of rear deck to bottom of platform deck


yep 15" outboard


----------



## David Carr

Seth awesome build,

Did you measure your deadrise? Looks like 3 or 4 Deg.


----------



## DuckNut

Chris Morejohn said:


> Lots of old fishing guides and guys my age have told me many times how they liked a locker to be big enough to climb into In case of a terrible lightening storm.
> When spearing crawfish and scalefish commercially in the Bahamas out of a 33’ Sea Vee we would get stuck out on the banks in huge lightening events. There were three of us. The driver and the diver would go sit on the bottom with the 2 hookahs available and I would climb into the anchor locker with no metal about.
> Never got hit but it felt better than being exposed.
> Another thing about big lockers is if you ever get stuck on a bank or broke down you can survive a nightof mosquitoes by being able to get in your locker.
> None of those guides told me where their clients went though. Guess ignorance is bliss.


Not fair Chris...you're only 5'4"


----------



## omegadef

DuckNut said:


> Not fair Chris...you're only 5'4"


That's what I was thinking. I'm just gonna have to get struck.


----------



## Sethsawyer

I Decided that I want a grab bar attached to a removable cooler. so I grabbed some scrap foam taped it to my cooler and started figuring out the ideal cooler location, and strap down points. I am using Kennedy strap tie downs, but I didn’t want them to catch my toes when I am not using my cooler so I made some inserts similar to leash plugs for surfboards. They will be completely glassed in and flush with the cockpit floor.


----------



## Sethsawyer

Flood tides, and work have my build crawling along. Got my strap downs glassed in.  I glassed two layers under/around my inserts. filled all my cracks and then glassed it in. I cut a piece of foam to the shape of the recess, and covered it with clear tape to push the glass into my insert to keep things neat. Now I just need to fair it in, do a little more sanding, and I will be ready to prime the interior.


----------



## hillcharl

Sethsawyer said:


> View attachment 95032
> View attachment 95040
> Flood tides, and work have my build crawling along. Got my strap downs glassed in. I glassed two layers under/around my inserts. filled all my cracks and then glassed it in. I cut a piece of foam to the shape of the recess, and covered it with clear tape to push the glass into my insert to keep things neat. Now I just need to fair it in, do a little more sanding, and I will be ready to prime the interior.


Awesome idea! should look very clean when you're finished!


----------



## Sethsawyer

Finishing up my electrical plan. I am going to add a bulge pump. What do most of you guys use? Manual, manual with a separate auto float, or the all in one manual/auto? Or doesn’t really matter, and what flo rate. 500gph? Or is this not enough? Brands that are better?


----------



## Backcountry 16

Sethsawyer said:


> Finishing up my electrical plan. I am going to add a bulge pump. What do most of you guys use? Manual, manual with a separate auto float, or the all in one manual/auto? Or doesn’t really matter, and what flo rate. 500gph? Or is this not enough? Brands that are better?


The bigger the better and definitely put in a float on it. I had a Spear without a float and was in the keys and woke up to it pouring rain needless to say I high tailed it to the dock and flipped on the bilge with ankle deep water in the cockpit didn't sleep much the rest of the night as the chair under the pavilion wasn't very comfortable I will never have another bilge without a float on it. Just my 2 cents


----------



## Smackdaddy53

Auto/manual with float, not the sensor junk. Bigger the better and hot wire so the battery switch is bypassed in case you moor it and it takes on water with battery switch off. I had twin 1200gph on my last skiff.


----------



## hunterbrown

Sethsawyer said:


> Finishing up my electrical plan. I am going to add a bulge pump. What do most of you guys use? Manual, manual with a separate auto float, or the all in one manual/auto? Or doesn’t really matter, and what flo rate. 500gph? Or is this not enough? Brands that are better?


I have had good luck with the rule pumps with the internal float switch on several skiffs but I have talked to at least three people who had their boats sink using these pumps. Actually had another customer try to talk me out of it when I was buying one at the store. That said, I'm about to swap out my 1100 gph automatic with a 2000 gph and external float switch for peace of mind. 

I think the hose sizes on pumps smaller than 1100 are different than 1100 and up.


----------



## Zika

Had two Rule pumps fail. I won't buy another. When you need a bilge pump, you want it to pump the most amount of water in the fastest time possible. The electrical drain is negligible, so opt for bigger with a float switch and wire directly to the battery for peace of mind.


----------



## firecat1981

After to many failures I'm getting away from Attwood and Rule this time, and going with Johnson SPX with a seperate float switch directly wired to the battery.


----------



## flyclimber

I had a rule with a non float switch. only had to really test it once.


----------



## Sethsawyer

Interior is all faired. I originally didn’t plan on fairing my dry storage areas, but My OCD kicked in and I faired anything you can see when you open the hatches. Cooler tie downs are faired in. I am putting my gas tank way forward and I was worried it would slid on its side all the time, but I didn’t really want to build a whole shelf so I fitted up some corner pucks that the gas tank will sit in. Glassed faired and then glued them in. I will attach a bungee to my lowest rod tube. Gas tank should be locked in place, but still easy to remove.


----------



## 7665

I may have missed it but do you have to vent the gas tank? I’m going back and forth on a couple of options on my cf build


----------



## Sethsawyer

Yep, the silver cap on the 6gallon tank is threaded, and I will connect my vent line with an Atwood quick connect fitting. Both gas and vent will disconnect so I can pull my tank out to refill.


----------



## 7665

Sethsawyer said:


> Yep, the silver cap on the 6gallon tank is threaded, and I will connect my vent line with an Atwood quick connect fitting. Both gas and vent will disconnect so I can pull my tank out to refill.


Looks awesome. Can’t wait to see it


----------



## David Carr

Seth how many 4x8 sheets of divinycell did you use? Boat looks great...


----------



## Sethsawyer

David Carr said:


> Seth how many 4x8 sheets of divinycell did you use? Boat looks great...


Conchfish 16:

I used 7 sheets 3/4" 2 sheets 1/2". 

If I did it again I would use all 3/4" and just modify the stations to incorporate 3/4" core


----------



## David Carr

Thanks bro. Can't wait to see the finished product.


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## Sethsawyer

I have primed my two storage areas. I will putty in all my rod tubes and chase tubes, and then after that dries I will prime my cockpit and then Roll and tip. I went with Awlgrip 545 primer and I will be using ice blue awlgrip.

My questions what is everyone using for rolling and tipping? I really don’t want the headache of cleaning brushes. They always seem to have a little crud in them that makes me have to buy new ones, but if I have to is there anything cheaper than the awlgrip thinner for cleaning brushes. 

So basically. Any recommendations on favorite roller/brushes. Any disposable options. Anybody doing the double roller method? Better cleaning methods for the 40dollar brushes people use. Thanks


----------



## Guest

Make/find yourself a brush tub that you can sit the brush in and put a lid on. Use acetone to clean the brush in a separate tub then store the brush in the awlgrip thinner. You can also store in the acetone then rinse with the awlgrip thinner before using.


----------



## Sethsawyer

Ok, I should have bought my slam latches before I built out my hatch openings. I am putting my slam latches over the gutter so the water that leaks through the latch just ends up in in the gutter. To use 2” slam latches my gutter would need to be 2.75”-3” wide at the at the latch. So I cut into my hatch lips to get the extra space I needed, and I will use glass for the catch and the new top of my gutter lip. I also rolled and tipped my storage areas and now I will putty in all my tubes and then roll the cockpit.


----------



## DuckNut

Awesome work Seth


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## Sethsawyer

Ok, it has been a while since my last post, but I am a total amateur at the whole boat painting stage so I didn’t think I had anything really useful to show. I am ready for my nonskid in my cockpit, but I plan to do all my nonskid at once so I am going to flip. Paint my hull bottom. Glass my deck on, fair and then paint my deck slicks and then nonskid everything. So far I will say I could have spent more time fairing/priming and making sure my interior was really flawless, but if I wanted close to perfect I would have had to spend more time than I am willing to spend. Lol, this boat will be rubbing oysters a week or two after I am done so spending excess time finishing isn't worth it to me. My finish so far looks “good”, but far from the popped out of a mold “perfect”.
I made recesses so my hinges for my hatches will sit flush with the deck, and I used 1/4” glass plates for my hinge screws since the cored gutters would have made it wonky through bolting one of the two bolts for my hinges.


----------



## bryson

She's coming together really nicely! Any reason you don't want to glass the deck on before flipping to paint? The flip after glassing the deck would give you an opportunity to clean up any epoxy that squeezed out without having to work overhead. Also if you had any areas you wanted to tape, that would be a good opportunity.


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## Sethsawyer

I have been going back and forth on glass before or after, major reason to flip now is it is still light enough so that I can flip with my neighbor and my wife on our own....barely, and then when that dries flip and bring it right over to the trailer. Then glue the deck on/glass. It will be flipped up anyways when gluing on the deck, and I plan on masking well, and cleaning up all the epoxy squeeze out when I am gluing the deck on and everything is still wet.


----------



## bryson

Sethsawyer said:


> I have been going back and forth on glass before or after, major reason to flip now is it is still light enough so that I can flip with my neighbor and my wife on our own....barely, and then when that dries flip and bring it right over to the trailer. Then glue the deck on/glass. It will be flipped up anyways when gluing on the deck, and I plan on masking well, and cleaning up all the epoxy squeeze out when I am gluing the deck on and everything is still wet.


Makes sense, can't wait to see the process!


----------



## Net 30

Quality of work is over the top - you got some mad skills brother!


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## Sublime

Nice work Seth. I'm sure it looks great. You know where all the little imperfections are, so your eye probably goes straight to them. Anyone else will probably never notice.


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## Sethsawyer

Ok, i hit a snag. I was all but ready to drop my deck on, but I really didn’t like the lines of my gunnels. So using the station points of the inside of the spray rails then adding 4” towards center I redrew my gunnel lines on my deck. This made my gunnels 10” wide at the stern to 14” wide at the bow It looked so much better I hacked into my foam and now I need to cut about an inch off my forward rod holders. It will amount to probably an extra week week and a half of build time, but it will cost me zero extra dollars and I know if I hadn’t I would have hated my gunnels.


----------



## Fritz

Seth how are you doing your deck?

I thought you were going to piece it together, then glass the thing in place, on the boat. 

I’m not far from thinking about a deck myself and was hoping not to do the thing separately in it’s own mold.


----------



## Sethsawyer

Fritz said:


> Seth how are you doing your deck?
> 
> I thought you were going to piece it together, then glass the thing in place, on the boat.
> 
> I’m not far from thinking about a deck myself and was hoping not to do the thing separately in it’s own mold.


It is in pieces bottom. The bottom of the pieces are already glassed. pieces meet at the rod holders and I will lay glass over the whole deck ,glassing the deck to the hull, after it is glued to the hull.


----------



## Fritz

Thanks man, this is my plan as well.


----------



## flyclimber

@Sethsawyer What radius did you choose for the cockpit? I have gotten more fond of the Chittum larger size, I think!


----------



## Sethsawyer

flyclimber said:


> @Sethsawyer What radius did you choose for the cockpit? I have gotten more fond of the Chittum larger size, I think!


Radius? In the corners? Traced a Big roll of tape at the bow and full roll of electric tape aft. Definitely not as big as the Chittums.


----------



## flyclimber

Sethsawyer said:


> Radius? In the corners? Traced a Big roll of tape at the bow and full roll of electric tape aft. Definitely not as big as the Chittums.


5 Gallon bucket or maybe a 1 galllon bucket? Everytime I see your updates I get a little bit more excited to try my own.


----------



## Sethsawyer

My week has been mostly waiting for epoxy,putty, and paint to dry on my rod holders that I had to cut down for my gunnel mod. Then since i decided not to make a deck mold....... which would have been much faster. I glassed up two layers of 10oz glass cut into strips that are 1.6” wide and glued then filleted, and glassed to the underside of my deck for my cockpit gunnel trim. After I glue my deck to my hull I will lay my two layers of deck glass over these to give them a total of 5 layers of glass. Then I will trim to 1.5”


----------



## omegadef

Why the pipes in the corners of the hatch channel?

Edit:
Nvm, saw it earlier in the build. That hatch channel will definitely drain.


----------



## SeaDrifter

Looking sharp! I can’t wait until I start my build. In some ways I have by placing materials orders. I had no idea how quickly all the little things would add up.

Can’t wait to see your finished product!!!


Michael


----------



## Sethsawyer

Ok, I think I am dropping my deck on this weekend. I was planning on flipping first, but around my transom I think I want to glass my deck on and fair that area a little. 

My question for those with whipray's or skiffs with toe rails. Do you like them? I actually like the look, and mine would probably be glassed core and then painted black instead of the starboard. Are they worth the hassle. Do they really help with fly line/keeping stuff from falling off the deck?


----------



## flyclimber

Sethsawyer said:


> Ok, I think I am dropping my deck on this weekend. I was planning on flipping first, but around my transom I think I want to glass my deck on and fair that area a little.
> 
> My question for those with whipray's or skiffs with toe rails. Do you like them? I actually like the look, and mine would probably be glassed core and then painted black instead of the starboard. Are they worth the hassle. Do they really help with fly line/keeping stuff from falling off the deck?


They do help a little. Your best would be to have toe rail plus Line tacks. I'll be doing that on my HB as soon as I can figure a way out to get them to go in straight.


----------



## Sethsawyer

Decided to do my nonskid in my cockpit. Man paint makes everything look so much better. I finally glassed my hatch drains I have been putting them off and they were definitely a hassle, I am sure making a mold would have been simpler, but coring my hatches after foam core, fillets, wet out, I only used one layer of glass inside and out of my gutters and they are rock solid. Overall, came out pretty neat only one major air bubble I cut and filled.


----------



## SeaDrifter

It’s the little things that make or break a build and your attention to the details make it a definite win! 



Michael


----------



## Sethsawyer

Picked up my trailer. Lol, now I have another project. Gotta add my rear keel roller and see how low I can get my rear bunk and then drop my forward bunk a pinch. Probably going to cut the overly large bunks down and Cut the bunks so there is little to no overhang at the rear. Wish I could adjust my torsion axle.


----------



## flyclimber

Sethsawyer said:


> View attachment 103198
> View attachment 103200
> Picked up my trailer from seaside trailers. $ 1650 for a 1500lb rated all aluminum torsion with about 50% stainess hardware. Lol, now I have another project. Gotta add my rear keel roller and see how low I can get my rear bunk and then drop my forward bunk a pinch. Probably going to cut the overly large bunks down to normal 2x6 size. I would drop my torsion axle down a couple notches, but I am not sure I can adjust this axle.


Swap it may be easier. 

https://www.dexteraxle.com/products/torsion-axles/torflex-light-duty/600---1-100-lb-capacity


----------



## texasag07

Did you buy that rear hatch or build it? I really like the size of it. If you bought it do you mind sharing where it came from.


----------



## Sethsawyer

Sethsawyer said:


> View attachment 103198
> View attachment 103200
> Picked up my trailer from seaside trailers. $ 1650 for a 1500lb rated all aluminum torsion with about 50% stainess hardware. Lol, now I have another project. Gotta add my rear keel roller and see how low I can get my rear bunk and then drop my forward bunk a pinch. Probably going to cut the overly large bunks down to normal 2x6 size. I would drop my torsion axle down a couple notches, but I am not sure I can adjust this axle.





flyclimber said:


> Swap it may be easier.
> 
> https://www.dexteraxle.com/products/torsion-axles/torflex-light-duty/600---1-100-lb-capacity


Cool axles. I think with my bunks sloped and dropped I will be good enough though I read up on some guys using ratcheting straps to overstretch their torsion axles to lower and drop the weight rating for light skiffs. Not sure I am that dedicated to “dry launch” rigging my trailer.


----------



## Sethsawyer

texasag07 said:


> Did you buy that rear hatch or build it? I really like the size of it. If you bought it do you mind sharing where it came from.


Thanks, Built it.


----------



## Hardluk81

I bought that same trailer a few months back. At first I thought it was a little high but after I put my boat on it really isn’t. I had side bunks welded on and added a roller to the back. Also cut down the back bunk brackets as low as I could and left the front. I was also going to trim the bunk boards back like you are talking about. After pulling the carpet off one was rotten so I ended up replacing them with new 2x6. I have a couple more things I want to do to it but after all that I just wanted to go fishing.


----------



## Hardluk81

Oh, one more thing. Check your hubs and make sure they are adequately greased! Long story but I also replaced a hub before I ever got to use my boat.


----------



## Sethsawyer

Fishing and family ate up most of my boat building time this week, and then I glued my deck down, wet out my foam, and i realized I didn’t have enough glass to finish my deck. Oh well, I ordered 20 more yards and by my math that gives me more than enough so I can just lay glass over my deck, and not have to puzzle piece my glass together to glass my deck. I started on my casting and poling platforms. I am going to build the legs of my platforms out of foam core carved into dowels, bent to shape and then covered in two biaxle and one uni carbon sleeve. Filleted and glassed to my platform and feet. Should cost me about $200 in carbon/sleeve for poling/casting platform, grab bar, and tiller extension.







Glued my deck down with Glass bubble Thickened epoxy glue
I Used waxed screws to lock my deck to my foam cores lip. Removed the screws and filled the holes after the glue dried







I sanded my foam down to sit flush to my lip which gave it a little bit of crown. About 3/16”drop from center to edges. There will be a bit of fairing needed after I glass. This is due to my lip not being perfectly level, but I should be able to get it laser straight without to much effort.







I Cut two 3/4” foam strips to 1.5” glued together with gorilla glue then ripped them down to 1.25” square and trimmed/sanded till round finally using 1” thin wall pvc cut in half with sandpaper glued inside to get final true round consistent shape. I am using structural foam because I plan to leave my foam in the final piece and wanted something that would add stiffness/strength to my final piece instead of just acting as a mold.


----------



## Sublime

Interested in seeing the platforms come together. I've been thinking along similar lines.


----------



## Zika

Looking good. Interesting approach with the poling platform. Did you do any calculations on stress/sturdiness beforehand? Just curious as to how much weight it can support over time?


----------



## commtrd

The platforms will be interesting to see constructed then how they fare in real use. Will have to glass them very heavy and integrate cross-bracing creatively. Wondering if weight difference will be appreciable between foam construction and welded aluminum? Could build them of carbon fiber too.


----------



## Sethsawyer

commtrd said:


> The platforms will be interesting to see constructed then how they fare in real use. Will have to glass them very heavy and integrate cross-bracing creatively. Wondering if weight difference will be appreciable between foam construction and welded aluminum? Could build them of carbon fiber too.


Will be carbon fiber. Not trying to save weight. I will overbuild, but carbons cool and I don’t have welding equipment.


----------



## LanceD

Sethsawyer said:


> View attachment 70402
> View attachment 70404
> View attachment 70406
> 
> 
> Cut my strips to 1 1/2” so I can use clamps to align the strips between stations.
> Butted two 8’ strips together and glued them together to get full length strips.
> Ran strips along the hull in several spots to check the stations to make sure everything was fair. Found one station that one of my points needed to be fixed.


Sorry to go back to the beginning but had a quick question. Did you cut out the transom pattern in wood? From following the picks looks like you mounted the foam straight to the A/B cut outs? Thanks in advance.


----------



## Sethsawyer

No wood transom. Foam transom cut and formed to the A and B transom frames.


LanceD said:


> Sorry to go back to the beginning but had a quick question. Did you cut out the transom pattern in wood? From following the picks looks like you mounted the foam straight to the A/B cut outs? Thanks in advance.


----------



## Sethsawyer

Deck is all glassed down. And my cockpit glass lip is trimmed to 1.5”. I didn’t get to fair before it cured so I scrubbed with water wiped with towels, and scuffed. Going to rough fair the deck, flip, paint the bottom, and then flip and then paint the deck. Played around with my drains and they drain a hose at full blast running water over the deck into the gutters. Being almost finished is killing me. I now have a “ complete” hull but all the fairing/finishing/painting takes time.


----------



## lemaymiami

Keep on trucking - it will turn into a finished product to be proud of...

The only thing I see that might be problematic is that drain hose (or pipes)... On a finished skiff it would be very handy to have them as close to the deck (up off of the floor as high as possible) before dropping down to meet the drain to allow all the different stuff you'll want to stow on that side.... No such thing as too much usable space on a small skiff. At least that's my take on it.


----------



## Sethsawyer

lemaymiami said:


> Keep on trucking - it will turn into a finished product to be proud of...
> 
> The only thing I see that might be problematic is that drain hose (or pipes)... On a finished skiff it would be very handy to have them as close to the deck (up off of the floor as high as possible) before dropping down to meet the drain to allow all the different stuff you'll want to stow on that side.... No such thing as too much usable space on a small skiff. At least that's my take on it.


Thanks for the tip definitely would like my drainage lines as out of the way as possible


----------



## GaG8tor

Man, that thing looks good not painted


----------



## albrighty_then

Looks great dude


----------



## Chris Beutel

Looks really good. All the little stuff eats up a bunch of time. Definitely on the home stretch.


----------



## PG350

Simply amazing skills. When building my boat I have to do things based on my limited skills and not what I really want but what I am capable of. You seem to be capable of anything boats.


----------



## Smackdaddy53

Sethsawyer said:


> Thanks for the tip definitely would like my drainage lines as out of the way as possible


It’s still possible, just stick a 90 on the front drain, you can still drain out the same hole in the splash well just keep the plumbing as tight to the deck as possible. 
I wish my hatch gutters were that heavy! Maverick was saving weight everywhere they could at the expense of structural integrity. Mine are thin and very flimsy.
Looking great, well done!


----------



## Sethsawyer

Thanks for the encouragement guys

Was busy all weekend good kids and family time so not much boat building time. Smackdaddy53 great minds must think alike after your comment I bought some 90 degree fittings, and played with my drains. They are routed as close to the deck as possible and as close to the hull sides as I could get them. Man huge improvement. I will probably tweak them a little to optimize drainage when I do my final rigging. But they are out of the way and no longer visible when opening the hatches. Coring the hatches was a PAIN, but with only 1 inside and 1 outside layer of glass they are crazy solid.


----------



## Tigweld

Nice


----------



## brokeoff

Sethsawyer said:


> Conchfish 16:
> 
> I used 7 sheets 3/4" 2 sheets 1/2".
> 
> If I did it again I would use all 3/4" and just modify the stations to incorporate 3/4" core


Do you recall how many sheets you used just for the hull?


----------



## Sethsawyer

I used 4 sheets 3/4" and 1 sheet 1/2" for the hull with a little left over 3/4"


----------



## Sethsawyer

Laying down fairing compound













after sanding....a lot of sanding












Harbor freight 10amp sander with some scrap foam screwed to the disk then spray adhesived a sheet of 60grit to the foam.







I Faired my deck and hatch gutters. I used a notched spreader then went back over it to fill the notches after it hardened up a little. Seemed way easier to lay down a thin consistent layer of fairing compound using the notched spreader. I Then used the Chris Morejohn sander to rough fair. That sander knocks down high spots crazy fast. I didn’t feel confident using it for final sanding so I then touched up with an orbital and longboard. Laying down fairing compound took at least three times longer than sanding. Lol, hatch gutters were a pain. Looks pretty good still a few pockmarks and one area that needs a little more love. I have a list of little things left to do besides final paint, but getting there.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Sethsawyer said:


> View attachment 106700
> Laying down fairing compound
> 
> View attachment 106702
> View attachment 106704
> after sanding....a lot of sanding
> View attachment 106706
> View attachment 106708
> Harbor freight 10amp sander with some scrap foam screwed to the disk then spray adhesived a sheet of 60grit to the foam.
> View attachment 106710
> 
> I Faired my deck and hatch gutters. I used a notched spreader then went back over it to fill the notches after it hardened up a little. Seemed way easier to lay down a thin consistent layer of fairing compound using the notched spreader. I Then used the Chris Morejohn sander to rough fair. That sander knocks down high spots crazy fast. I didn’t feel confident using it for final sanding so I then touched up with an orbital and longboard. Laying down fairing compound took at least three times longer than sanding. Lol, hatch gutters were a pain. Looks pretty good still a few pockmarks and one area that needs a little more love. I have a list of little things left to do besides final paint, but getting there.


Yep that’s the sequence for sure. I like the idea of using a piece of core to make up the sanding pad. It’s great for just doing the overall flat fairing, then like you say out come the long boards and the loss of finger tip skin.
Really looks good. She looks light too.


----------



## rvd

Just caught up on your build, looks great!


----------



## Charles Hadley

Sethsawyer said:


> View attachment 106700
> Laying down fairing compound
> 
> View attachment 106702
> View attachment 106704
> after sanding....a lot of sanding
> View attachment 106706
> View attachment 106708
> Harbor freight 10amp sander with some scrap foam screwed to the disk then spray adhesived a sheet of 60grit to the foam.
> View attachment 106710
> 
> I Faired my deck and hatch gutters. I used a notched spreader then went back over it to fill the notches after it hardened up a little. Seemed way easier to lay down a thin consistent layer of fairing compound using the notched spreader. I Then used the Chris Morejohn sander to rough fair. That sander knocks down high spots crazy fast. I didn’t feel confident using it for final sanding so I then touched up with an orbital and longboard. Laying down fairing compound took at least three times longer than sanding. Lol, hatch gutters were a pain. Looks pretty good still a few pockmarks and one area that needs a little more love. I have a list of little things left to do besides final paint, but getting there.


Where I come from that's a wax comb


----------



## Charles Hadley

Skiff looks good


----------



## Sethsawyer

2 layers of glass for my hatch lip. Trimmed to 1.5”






hatch lids glassed.






hatch fairing finished lip cut to 1 3/8”






I casting and poling platform poling platforms. Poling is 20x32x 1” used two sheets of 1/2” core rough cut glued together and then edge rounded and sanded smooth.






Final wash down after I finally got her flipped and prepped for paint. I finally got a handful of guys organized to help me flip her. Well me and my neighbor where waiting for everyone else to show, and he just said “you want to try?” Flipped her easy just the two of us. She will be light.


















1st coat of primer






this pic didn’t want to go with the other hatch pics, but took my strips of glass glued them, filleted them and glassed them to my hatch lids.


----------



## Sethsawyer

Cleaned the garage and moved the boat so I could get better light. Two overhead lights directly above the boat rolled it back and forth so when I painted each side I had good lighting. At 10ft she is stunning. Definitely not perfect when you do a serious inspection, but I doubt the redfish will notice.


----------



## Patrick Burton

Beautiful


----------



## kamakuras

You have done an outstanding job. Mad skills. You are in the home stretch now.


----------



## jglidden

Stellar work! My boat looks like a dang accordion compared to yours! haha


----------



## Bluwave

This thing looks amazing. Nice work!


----------



## bryson

There's some Monday motivation. Not sure how I missed it when you posted. Looking fantastic!


----------



## Sethsawyer

She is on her trailer. I still need to paint the deck, and finish my poling/casting platforms but the end is in sight. I really don’t love the trailer. It is way too tall, but I will probably switch my 13” tires out with some smaller ones while I am fishing local, and then someday get a new axle so I can drop her down without the wimpy tires. Still need to build my guide on bunks as well.


----------



## Zika

The light at the end of the non-tunnel.  Very nice.


----------



## GaG8tor

Sick, man! Good work


----------



## flyclimber

Sethsawyer said:


> View attachment 111364
> 
> She is on her trailer. I still need to paint the deck, and finish my poling/casting platforms but the end is in sight. I really don’t love the trailer. It is way too tall, but I will probably switch my 13” tires out with some smaller ones while I am fishing local, and then someday get a new axle so I can drop her down without the wimpy tires. Still need to build my guide on bunks as well.


Just swap the axle! then build the fenders! It was easier than I thought and I have a great template if you would like it! Two sheets of sheet metal and some aluminum angle.


----------



## Sethsawyer

flyclimber said:


> Just swap the axle! then build the fenders! It was easier than I thought and I have a great template if you would like it! Two sheets of sheet metal and some aluminum angle.


Ok, so perfect axle is wider than your frame so the spindle can swing outside your frame so you can bolt/ weld the axle directly to the frame right? Any place I should look other than eastern marine to check prices/look for the right size?


----------



## flyclimber

Sethsawyer said:


> Ok, so perfect axle is wider than your frame so the spindle can swing outside your frame so you can bolt/ weld the axle directly to the frame right? Any place I should look other than eastern marine to check prices/look for the right size?



Correct! That's the way mine is setup now. All moving parts are outboard of the frame rails and this axle just bolts on with 4 1/2" bolts. 

I have more experience with Dexter axle and you actually specify your axle and they custom make it. It doesn't come with hubs so keep that in mind! I went with a 10* up instead of the typical 0* for the torsion arms. I can DM more pics if that would help!


----------



## Sethsawyer

flyclimber said:


> Correct! That's the way mine is setup now. All moving parts are outboard of the frame rails and this axle just bolts on with 4 1/2" bolts.
> 
> I have more experience with Dexter axle and you actually specify your axle and they custom make it. It doesn't come with hubs so keep that in mind! I went with a 10* up instead of the typical 0* for the torsion arms. I can DM more pics if that would help!


Pics are always good. Rough estimate on the axle price?


----------



## flyclimber

~$265 for mine shipped


----------



## Sethsawyer

You 


flyclimber said:


> ~$265 for mine shipped



I will be looking at these for sure. 



I Messed with my hatches today. I didn’t plan ahead when I built my gutters and using my 3/4” lid there was no room for my weatherstrip seal on my hatch lip. My lid would have been proud 1/8-1/4”. So I now have a new design feature I routed out about a 1/4” channel for my seal and even tweaked my channel in a few places so that now my hatch lids sit nice and flush with the weatherstrip compressed in place.






Roughed out






channel. I then sanded/ beveled/ faired the channels in prep for glass. Slam latches work great.








Good enough


----------



## The CuNazz

Nice!


----------



## Guest

@Sethsawyer, I’ve mostly stayed quiet here but... Only because you are rockin’ it brother! Very nice work, can’t wait to see the wet test footage!


----------



## Guest

flyclimber said:


> Just swap the axle! then build the fenders! It was easier than I thought and I have a great template if you would like it! Two sheets of sheet metal and some aluminum angle.


Great advise, build it how ya want it! I saw a price list from a manufacturer “who will remain nameless” earlier today for a new
trailer and about went in to defib! Not a chance in hell I would pay that or recommend them to anyone, I don’t care how much nicer or better built than others they “think” their product is!


----------



## texasag07

If replacing the axle to get a better stance, check out McClain trailers out of Texas they custom build axles and they are a dealer for the vaulted hub axles, they advertise a no maintenance sealed hub with 5 year warranty. I have two friends who are maintenance adverse and one has about 8-9 years on a trailer that gets dunked and another has 7 years without ever having to open the hub and the bearings still seam tight.

I replaced my trailer axle with one as well about 8 months ago on a trailer that has about 3-4K miles and gets dunked weekly and everything is still nice and tight.

They are a little pricey, about double the cost of a standard axle.


----------



## bryson

Just curious, what made you switch from this one you were discussing earlier in the thread?

https://www.advantagetrailercompany...ilers-as1616-skiff-boat-trailer-Zn3b|lac.html


----------



## Sethsawyer

bryson said:


> Just curious, what made you switch from this one you were discussing earlier in the thread?
> 
> https://www.advantagetrailercompany.com/-continental-trailers-as1616-skiff-boat-trailer-Zn3b|lac.html


The location was farther than I wanted to drive. The Karavan is a full I beam trailer not C channel for close to the continental price, and the local dealer in Jacksonville that sells the continental charged $ 1900 for the same trailer. If I did it again I would have bought the cheapest used aluminum I beam trailer that would work, and rigged it out all myself with new axle etc.


----------



## GaG8tor

Don’t know if it was mentioned earlier in the thread or not, but I live in close proximity to you. Was wondering where you got your materials. Core, epoxy, and glass.


----------



## Guest

GaG8tor said:


> Don’t know if it was mentioned earlier in the thread or not, but I live in close proximity to you. Was wondering where you got your materials. Core, epoxy, and glass.


You got the bug!


----------



## GaG8tor

Boatbrains said:


> You got the bug!


I got it Bad


----------



## Sethsawyer

GaG8tor said:


> Don’t know if it was mentioned earlier in the thread or not, but I live in close proximity to you. Was wondering where you got your materials. Core, epoxy, and glass.


Lol, pm sent.

Work and my kids baseball and gymnastics kept me busy this week, and then I had to fix a few trouble spots on my deck before final paint. While I was waiting for epoxy to dry I started working on my platforms. Mocked up my design on the boat then built a level support. I will remove the side supports then lay my first layer of carbon. Then I will pull the legs and do my final two layers over the whole length. Then glue everything together sand/ putty the top of the platform Then lay carbon over the top. I am hoping to be able to bright finish, but if my work gets messy it will get paint. 26” tall. Platform 32x20”. Feet at the deck dimensions 44x9” Steps/side supports will be same thickness as deck. just added to get a better look at final shape.
View attachment 113030
























View attachment 113040


----------



## Sublime

Skillz


----------



## bryson

Looking great! Are you wrapping the legs with cloth or using a pre-made sleeve?


----------



## Fritz

Seth that’s fantastic!

How did you do your bent legs and are they stiff? 

I saw a Chittum with a carbon platform top only, they finished the bottom, or more likely popped it from a mold with the bottom side down so it was shiny. The top had SeaDek so it didn’t need to be nice.


----------



## Guest

Looks great!


----------



## Sethsawyer

Bryson: platform leg layup: PVC core dowel, 1 uni carbon sleeve sandwiched between 2 bi-axle carbon sleeves.

Fitz: Core legs are stiff, they take and hold the curve really well. I pretty much just drilled smaller than needed holes in my platform then used a file to enlarge and give the holes the angle I wanted the legs to end at, and clamped my platform to my jig. Then cut holes in 2x4s spaced equal distance from the center of my platform to secure the bottom of the legs. Then just cut my legs to the same length and tacked them with screws to the foam core at the top of my platform when I liked the curve, making sure the length ended up the same for my leg pairs. Planning out the layup to minimize messy joints is the tricky part. I think i have a plan that will keep my work looking really neat. I'll post it if it works out.

Planning on painted non skid instead of sea deck for standing areas.


----------



## GaG8tor

Outstanding


----------



## texasag07

Very cool


----------



## Tigweld

Did you make a mold for the platform deck?


----------



## Sethsawyer

Tigweld said:


> Did you make a mold for the platform deck?


no mold, though that probably would have made a lighter part since I wouldn't need to fill coat. Hand layup with two fill coats of epoxy to give me enough epoxy to sand smooth without cutting into the carbon.


----------



## Guest

Sethsawyer said:


> no mold, though that probably would have made a lighter part since I wouldn't need to fill coat. Hand layup with two fill coats of epoxy to give me enough epoxy to sand smooth without cutting into the carbon.


Either way, looks great!


----------



## Tigweld

Very nice


----------



## Zika

Sethsawyer said:


> Planning on painted non skid instead of sea deck for standing areas.


Good plan. I know sea dek is in vogue now and it has benefits, mainly as a cushion. It's a little more difficult to keep clean and my feet tend to stick when I'm on the poling platform. Instead of being able to slide step to dis-mount I have to lift, which impacts balance at times.

If I have another skiff built, the platform top will be non-skid matched to the deck.


----------



## lemaymiami

Non-skid will have your feet sticking as well I'm afraid - so you pays your money and takes your choice....


----------



## Zika

lemaymiami said:


> Non-skid will have your feet sticking as well I'm afraid - so you pays your money and takes your choice....


Never had trouble with the non-skid on the platform of my previous boats. The Bayshore also had teak toe rails that served as warning borders.


----------



## Guest

Zika said:


> Never had trouble with the non-skid on the platform of my previous boats. The Bayshore also had teak toe rails that served as warning borders.


I have a serious love hate with teak!


----------



## Guest

Mahogany too!


----------



## Zika

Boatbrains said:


> I have a serious love hate with teak!


I felt your pain. Lot of work maintaining, but when it's right, it's beautiful!


----------



## Guest

Zika said:


> I felt your pain. Lot of work maintaining, but when it's right, it's beautiful!


Amen to that!


----------



## GaG8tor

Saw it in person today. Let me tell you guys. The interior finish, cockpit and belowdecks is simply amazing. Easily 10 times better than any production boat I’ve ever seen. Including the 30k stripped down “value” version that I saw last weekend. @Sethsawyer has done a fantastic job with this build. A real standup guy too as he gifted me his stations.


----------



## Guest

GaG8tor said:


> Saw it in person today. Let me tell you guys. The interior finish, cockpit and belowdecks is simply amazing. Easily 10 times better than any production boat I’ve ever seen. Including the 30k stripped down “value” version that I saw last weekend. @Sethsawyer has done a fantastic job with this build. A real standup guy too as he gifted me his stations.


That’s awesome! I’ll give you a call tomorrow. Sorry, I got busy and it slipped my mind!


----------



## GaG8tor

Boatbrains said:


> That’s awesome! I’ll give you a call tomorrow. Sorry, I got busy and it slipped my mind!


No worries brother. Life happens


----------



## JJones

A little late to ask but is your skiff set up for a 20in or 15in transom? I am currently building a CF16 in Charleston SC and have been following yours and others builds.


----------



## Sethsawyer

15” transom


----------



## JJones

What’s your count on yds for cloth , gallons of resin and core so far


----------



## Sethsawyer

i used roughly
19 gallons epoxy
90 yards of glass
9 sheets of core


----------



## Renegade

The carbon platform is sick. Is there a reference resource for that technique?


----------



## PG350

Outstanding job. I wish I had your skills.


----------



## Sethsawyer

Working on rigging now. Hoping to splash next weekend.


----------



## Guest

Looks great!


----------



## SC on the FLY

Sethsawyer said:


> i used roughly
> 19 gallons epoxy
> 90 yards of glass
> 9 sheets of core


About how much $ in material do you have ? Any idea of man hrs at this point?
Looks dynamite by the way


----------



## SC on the FLY

Sethsawyer said:


> View attachment 109286
> 
> 
> Cleaned the garage and moved the boat so I could get better light. Two overhead lights directly above the boat rolled it back and forth so when I painted each side I had good lighting. At 10ft she is stunning. Definitely not perfect when you do a serious inspection, but I doubt the redfish will notice.


Did you use awl products to paint ? Looks nice


----------



## bryson

Moving right along! Really enjoyed meeting you and getting to check out the skiff this weekend. You've done such a great job. Look forward to seeing her floating!


----------



## Sethsawyer

@SC on the FLY 
Finished Hull built with divinity cell, awlgrip paint, stainless hardware, and the minimal electrical ran me about 5k. I think using carbon core brand core, 1part poly paint, and knowing what I am doing I could build closer to 4K, but awlgrip was pretty easy to use and looks great. 


@bryson 
Great meeting you as well, keep up the stellar work. Get glassing that interior.


----------



## JJones

Can’t wait till that day for my build, looks awesome


----------



## Sethsawyer

Gased, Rigged, and ready for her wet test. Still need to make my carbon poling and casting platform, and make my electrical pretty, but she Is water ready.


----------



## bryson

A thing of beauty! Congrats!


----------



## Zika

Outstanding work, Seth. You'll appreciate every fish caught aboard this one!


----------



## Guest

A thing of beauty! Well done sir, well done!


----------



## Backcountry 16

Well done Seth a thing of beauty


----------



## GaG8tor

She’ll get put through the wringer if you test her this weekend for sure. Very nice


----------



## 7665

looks awesome!


----------



## JJones

Congrats, on point


----------



## kamakuras

Beautiful, can’t wait to hear how it performs.


----------



## Backcountry 16

Seth why did you add the aluminum plate to.the transom just curious?


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Seth, 
Congratulations on your build. It has been a pleasure to watch it go along.
I figure you are out today going for a run. I hope she has come out as you had envisioned.
Well done.


----------



## Fishshoot

Wow!


----------



## makin moves

What's the celebratory drink later? It's well deserved!


----------



## Sethsawyer

Thanks for the congrats everyone. I am still wet testing her, but here are a few teasers. Runs 28ish on average WOT by myself and saw 31mph with the wind and tide in my favor.


----------



## Tautog166

Congratulations! Time and effort well spent. I’ve enjoyed following your build.


----------



## makin moves

What more could you want, and floating high too!


----------



## Backcountry 16

That thing is purty setting in the water


----------



## Mountolive

I’m so happy for you. Thank you for sharing the build. It is such an achievement.


----------



## GaG8tor

Wow! That’s awesome man.


----------



## Smackdaddy53

Great looking skiff man. Well done! You have to take a rod with you on the maiden voyage...


----------



## Chris Beutel

Looks great and fantastic speed. Definitely a great build. Thanks for posting, I picked up a lot of pointers.


----------



## Fritz

Congrats Seth, just a beautiful skiff!


----------



## Sethsawyer

Floats pretty shallow

Thanks again guys. Chris thanks for making an amazing set of plans available, and thanks for all the help and answered questions. 

I Got out at low tide with my son and mom. Boat ran 26 mph at WOT with the 2 adults and my 9year old kid. Trim tabs really soften the ride in the light chop We had today. Didn’t really run conditions to really test the spray rails and how “dry” the skiff runs, but spray strakes and lower pocket chines cut and directed the light chop. 12” tabs are definitely more than She needs, but it Jumps on plane crazy fast. And tabs all the way up made it feel like a longer skiff on plane. Just gotta go real easy on the tab adjustments.

She turns really well at speed Very little to no slide. It was turning so well I kinda went to far and tried to hard turn at close to WOT. Definitely got some slide out of her. 
Turns on pole great. Tracked more than satisfactory. Had to Pole against the wind and tide to get out of a couple creeks and well that still sucked.... lol, but I doubt there is a skiff that makes that fun. I poled from the bow and I didn’t notice a huge difference over a square stern skiff even with the crowned rounded transom, but with less wind I will probably solo pole and fish from the bow. 

Even with no false floor/stringer the hull felt rock solid no wobble/vibration even pounding through chop. Not sure if the cored lower chines added some stiffness or the 3/4” core or both, but it felt solid. 

Overall does everything as advertised. Great little skiff.


----------



## Mc_Fly

Just read through the whole thread. Fantastic job, would love to see it in person.


----------



## Sethsawyer

@mosquitolaGOON asked me to show some pics of how I vented my tank






Bought a 10 dollar replacement moeller fuel withdrawal






cut the pick up line To allow air to freely enter tank.






Unscrewed and pulled out the fuel gauge and cover.






Installed quick connect fittings on both connections.







Most external vents hook up to 5/8”hose so I had to buy a 3/8”-5/8” connector







Ran a Little extra fuel/vent line so I can pull it out of the front to access the disconnects to remove the tank


----------



## Tigweld

Perfect


----------



## trekker

Awesome build. 

Did your strongback hold true when rolling it out onto that sloped driveway?


----------



## Sethsawyer

trekker said:


> Awesome build.
> 
> Did your strongback hold true when rolling it out onto that sloped driveway?


I had already released my foam core from my stations before I moved it, but I did recheck for level and added a couple shims to re level. If I build again I would do all my core work and exterior glassing before moving.


----------



## Sethsawyer

I will post a full write up if everything works out,but started laying down carbon for the poling platform.






Side supports/steps






cuts so I could bend the foam more.






Feet made from 6layers of 11od carbon.






Wet out my foam, let that dry(green no longer tacky then fit up and wet out my first layer of carbon.






1st layer all wet out. Short Hanging poles are my casting platform legs.


----------



## Charles Hadley

Wow! Bad ass! You definitely have skills


----------



## Tigweld

How wide are the front legs, at bottom?


----------



## Sethsawyer

At feet Front inside pipe 40” wide. 7” front to back. When I mocked it up on the boat Tiller will all but kiss the front left leg at full right(tiller left) turn. But still had full range of motion.


----------



## GaG8tor

Platform is awesome. I bet it is super light.


----------



## Fritz

Seth what is your plan for UV protection on the exposed carbon?

I use West System with the 207 Special Clear hardener just for this purpose, but I get bubbles, no matter how hard I try. I’m thinking a base coat of the 207, then finishing with a gloss urethane that promises up protection.


----------



## Sethsawyer

Fritz said:


> Seth what is your plan for UV protection on the exposed carbon?
> 
> I use West System with the 207 Special Clear hardener just for this purpose, but I get bubbles, no matter how hard I try. I’m thinking a base coat of the 207, then finishing with a gloss urethane that promises up protection.


I am planning on a poly clear-coat for UV protection and shine


----------



## Sethsawyer

Got her slimed.


----------



## DBStoots

Very nice. I have so much admiration for those of you who are talented enough to do this. Congratulations on the build and tight lines!


----------



## Guest

Sethsawyer said:


> View attachment 119322
> Got her slimed.


And PROPER! Well done sir!


----------



## GaG8tor

Nice catch. Looks calm where you are. I was on Jekyll and it had to have been blowing 30plus all day.


----------



## Sethsawyer

The Carbon casting and poling platform are really time consuming, well mostly just waiting between coats of epoxy/layers of carbon sleeve. I could have done several steps together and saved a bunch of time, but hindsight’s 20/20.

Casting platform is all but done. 







1” thick core deck






wet out carbon 11oz for bottom of







Pvc foam core dowels 1 layer carbon biax sleeve 1 layer of uni carbon sleeve.






Cut holes through the deck for the legs. Clamped the platform on a level support at desired height and glued legs in making sure to check for square/level of legs. I tapped the legs to the cement after checking/adjusting for square.






sanded the legs flush to the top of the deck wet out the foam and then wet out top 11oz carbon. Then gave the carbon 3 coats of neat epoxy to fill the weave. Tipped out the epoxy with a chip brush.






Garage was really cold and the epoxy didn’t want lay down clear. So I went over it with a hair dryer.







G







Cleared up fine even with the cold temps.






finally gave the legs a final layer of carbon biax sleeve to look good/cover the filet and reinforce the deck leg connections. Still need to give the legs a few more coats of epoxy and then paint, but 6lbs so far for a 15.5” tall platform.


----------



## Guest

Even though I might get called a cheerleading, know it all, so called expert, that claims to have been in the industry for a while... I’m gonna go ahead and say, Hey man Nice job, what a good job man!


----------



## Sethsawyer

@Boatbrains without you and many other cheerleaders, followers, and so called experts. I couldn’t have built this boat. So to everyone, thanks for all the cheerleading and advice. 

But seriously without the inspiration of previous builders I would not have been confident enough to complete this build, and sometimes the smallest comment and piece of advice got me thinking and helped solve problems during the build.


----------



## Sethsawyer

Carbon fiber Poling platform is ready for final sanding and paint/clear. This thing was time consuming, but I am mostly happy with the end product. Keeping all the cloth edges pretty was a challenge for a bright finish. It is currently 9.2lbs I only weight 140lbs but with the platform feet clamped to my strong back it felt solid when I climbed up on top of it. Jumping on the front and back of the platform i could feel some flex, but solid enough for me and everybody I know that will climb on the platform. Dimensions 32x20” deck 26”tall.


----------



## Zika

Seth, what an outstanding job! The skiff looks beautiful and the special touches like the custom platforms make it truly unique. Enjoy the fruits of your dedicated labor!


----------



## trekker

Awesome work.


----------



## GaG8tor

Sick, man


----------



## Smackdaddy53

That hull...those platforms...just awesome


----------



## GatorTrout

Wonder if those platforms will hold a 6’3” 225lb dummy like myself. Lol


----------



## Sublime

Awesome job.


----------



## Sethsawyer

View attachment 123174
View attachment 123176












Platforms are finally finished. Tape lines ended up messy, but I am calling it good enough. 4 coats of a Awlgrip clear for uv protection. Matching ice blue Awlgrip with nonskid for the decks. Holes in the platform are for my push pole holders. I am building. Should be able to move it to the front or rear platform depending on if I am by myself or with someone else.


----------



## salt_fly

Sethsawyer said:


> View attachment 123174
> View attachment 123176
> View attachment 123178
> View attachment 123180
> Platforms are finally finished. Tape lines ended up messy, but I am calling it good enough. 4 coats of a Awlgrip clear for uv protection. Matching ice blue Awlgrip with nonskid for the decks. Holes in the platform are for my push pole holders. I am building. Should be able to move it to the front or rear platform depending on if I am by myself or with someone else.


Just exceptional! So now tell us...How does it ride? How does it pole? How dry or wet is it? What are your numbers in speed, draft, weight, etc.? What would you do differently if you did it again? Any second thoughts on materials or methods? Was it worth all the time and effort? What advice do you have for those of us who are contemplating a build in the future?


----------



## bryson

Looks so sharp!


----------



## Fritz

salt_fly said:


> What advice do you have for those of us who are contemplating a build in the future?


If you can talk yourself out of it, do that. 

Also, SethSawyer makes this look a lot easier then it might actually be.


----------



## Guest

Fritz said:


> If you can talk yourself out of it, do that.
> 
> Also, SethSawyer makes this look a lot easier then it might actually be.


You’re doin a pretty damn good job yourself sir!


----------



## Sethsawyer

salt_fly said:


> Just exceptional! So now tell us...How does it ride? How does it pole? How dry or wet is it? What are your numbers in speed, draft, weight, etc.? What would you do differently if you did it again? Any second thoughts on materials or methods? Was it worth all the time and effort? What advice do you have for those of us who are contemplating a build in the future?



Numbers/stats/wet test ect.

WOT with a 25hp Runs 28-29mph solo I expect to run 28ish when I am toting the trolling motor/battery.
25-26mph with two onboard.
Ok, my comparison boat is a gheenoe so it rides like a yaht and is super dry even in nasty chop compared to my gheenoe. I would recommend the spray strakes to anyone building they are worth the effort. Most chop gets knocked down by the strakes when it gets really rough especially in following sea conditions the spray rails get a workout, but average conditions the strakes, and lower chines contribute to a really dry ride.
Drafts a real world 4” solo. 5” draft with two onboard. If you can keep perfect level keel it will draft less than that.
Super easy to pole and turn. It suffers the light weight syndrome of getting harder to pole in decent wind. Bow does turn nicely into the wind though which helps.

After the build thoughts.

Pros: I enjoyed the build. This is really the most important part if you think you will enjoy the build go for it. It’s kind of like fly tying on a really grand scale. Its fun building/making one more piece of what gets you out there stalking fish. And it’s cool telling people I built this at the launch.

Cons: your skiff will not be as pretty, be as fast, or pole as well as what you envision. You will be able to build a super functional, great looking skiff, but unless you have a background in auto paint ect. Building your first skiff you will not produce a turn key Yaht finished skiff. My skiff has paint runs, spots that when the light hits it isn’t fair, and lots of little things that will bug me until I beat it up enough not to care. I spent a literal year spending most of my free time working on my skiff. If I built again I could probably drop that down to about 6months, but still it is a lot of time. If your goal is to save money you will probably be disappointed. It costs as much or more than a used skiff if you have cash in hand and can wait on a deal. 

Overall, if you want to build a skiff because you like the design and you want to build a skiff go for it. If you just want a cheaper, “better” skiff you will probably be disappointed. All that said I enjoyed the build and the skiff is awesome, and I will be building another one............someday


----------



## Tigweld

Great job on the boat, great post


----------



## Bonecracker

The guys that build them for a living get to be picky, so don't get to caught up in having a perfect skiff, they do not exist!! The blood, sweat, and tears have made this build worth while so go "SLIME" the hell out of her and enjoy the ride along the way! Cheers Mate!!


----------



## bryson

Sethsawyer said:


> After the build thoughts.
> 
> Pros: I enjoyed the build. This is really the most important part if you think you will enjoy the build go for it. It’s kind of like fly tying on a really grand scale. Its fun building/making one more piece of what gets you out there stalking fish. And it’s cool telling people I built this at the launch.
> 
> Cons: your skiff will not be as pretty, be as fast, or pole as well as what you envision. You will be able to build a super functional, great looking skiff, but unless you have a background in auto paint ect. Building your first skiff you will not produce a turn key Yaht finished skiff. My skiff has paint runs, spots that when the light hits it isn’t fair, and lots of little things that will bug me until I beat it up enough not to care. I spent a literal year spending most of my free time working on my skiff. If I built again I could probably drop that down to about 6months, but still it is a lot of time. If your goal is to save money you will probably be disappointed. It costs as much or more than a used skiff if you have cash in hand and can wait on a deal.
> 
> Overall, if you want to build a skiff because you like the design and you want to build a skiff go for it. If you just want a cheaper, “better” skiff you will probably be disappointed. All that said I enjoyed the build and the skiff is awesome, and I will be building another one............someday


Well said. I'll also add that there will be times that you absolutely don't want to work on it, and you'll wonder why you didn't just buy a decent used skiff in the first place. Many times. So much sanding... so much...


----------



## Guest

They are a lot of sweat equity, but so worth it in the end! Built not bought means you get to do it exactly like you want! I can help ya’ll with the runny paint, fairing, etc... as well as a few others on here can. I want to help you all make these home builds better than a factory produced boat and you guys have the ability to do so no doubt! You spend hours/days sanding and shaping foam and putty to get them just right, what’s a few more hours to get a 5star finish! 

Here is where I will start for a high quality finish.
(1) Once final fairing is complete, please use a high quality high build primer and apply according to the TDS. Two to three applications may be needed to get all the lows filled in. Sanding between applications of course. This is your true final fairing and this should be stupid easy to sand!
(2) apply a finish primer/sealer according to the TDS and prep for topcoat according to the topcoat’s TDS
(4) Please select a good 2k topcoat with appropriate reducer (slow, med, fast) for your environmental needs and apply according to TDS.

Now before anyone says anything about 1k paints and “cheap paints” know this, I don’t care what you think... there is not a 1k paint that will be as tough, hold a shine, or be as low maintenance as a quality 2k paint. Automotive 2k urethanes are fine for these builds and can be had much cheaper than some of the big name marine paints can but most will need sprayed. One of the reasons I always push the Valspar LIC40 is not only is it a 2k urethane, it is an industrial grade paint that is hard as nails and can be brushed or roll n tipped as well as sprayed! Fellas, you put a lot of effort, time, tears, and blood in to your builds and have all impressed me with your skills so far as hobbyists! Take a bit more time and you won’t have to say, I ran some paint, it’s not perfect, etc... I want to hear ya’ll saying, I built this skiff for me, to my needs, and the quality is unmatched by any production builder! Because, other than some cosmetics from what I am seeing from ya’ll... it’s true! Sorry for the long read, James


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## Sethsawyer

This will be my last active post on this thread. She is all finished. I planned on making a Carbon tiller extension and cooler grab bar, and I will probably in the future, but the weather is to nice not to be fishing. 

Fish caught on a silver/gold beadchain flash clouser.


Thanks for all the support.


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## Guest

Nice!


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## Tigweld

Well dun


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## Charles Hadley

Boatbrains said:


> They are a lot of sweat equity, but so worth it in the end! Built not bought means you get to do it exactly like you want! I can help ya’ll with the runny paint, fairing, etc... as well as a few others on here can. I want to help you all make these home builds better than a factory produced boat and you guys have the ability to do so no doubt! You spend hours/days sanding and shaping foam and putty to get them just right, what’s a few more hours to get a 5star finish!
> 
> Here is where I will start for a high quality finish.
> (1) Once final fairing is complete, please use a high quality high build primer and apply according to the TDS. Two to three applications may be needed to get all the lows filled in. Sanding between applications of course. This is your true final fairing and this should be stupid easy to sand!
> (2) apply a finish primer/sealer according to the TDS and prep for topcoat according to the topcoat’s TDS
> (4) Please select a good 2k topcoat with appropriate reducer (slow, med, fast) for your environmental needs and apply according to TDS.
> 
> Now before anyone says anything about 1k paints and “cheap paints” know this, I don’t care what you think... there is not a 1k paint that will be as tough, hold a shine, or be as low maintenance as a quality 2k paint. Automotive 2k urethanes are fine for these builds and can be had much cheaper than some of the big name marine paints can but most will need sprayed. One of the reasons I always push the Valspar LIC40 is not only is it a 2k urethane, it is an industrial grade paint that is hard as nails and can be brushed or roll n tipped as well as sprayed! Fellas, you put a lot of effort, time, tears, and blood in to your builds and have all impressed me with your skills so far as hobbyists! Take a bit more time and you won’t have to say, I ran some paint, it’s not perfect, etc... I want to hear ya’ll saying, I built this skiff for me, to my needs, and the quality is unmatched by any production builder! Because, other than some cosmetics from what I am seeing from ya’ll... it’s true! Sorry for the long read, James


don't forget to tell them about the importance and function of guide coating the high build primer before sanding BB


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## Guest

Charles Hadley said:


> don't forget to tell them about the importance and function of guide coating the high build primer before sanding BB


Yes, ya gotta use a daggum guide coat if ya want it to look good!


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## Fritz

Congratulations Seth all around on job well done and thanks for all the help and inspiration you have provided. 

Classy way to end a build and cripes it almost looks like that boat sits on the water, not in it.


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## Open Fly -The Later Years

Boatbrains said:


> They are a lot of sweat equity, but so worth it in the end! Built not bought means you get to do it exactly like you want! I can help ya’ll with the runny paint, fairing, etc... as well as a few others on here can. I want to help you all make these home builds better than a factory produced boat and you guys have the ability to do so no doubt! You spend hours/days sanding and shaping foam and putty to get them just right, what’s a few more hours to get a 5star finish!
> 
> Here is where I will start for a high quality finish.
> (1) Once final fairing is complete, please use a high quality high build primer and apply according to the TDS. Two to three applications may be needed to get all the lows filled in. Sanding between applications of course. This is your true final fairing and this should be stupid easy to sand!
> (2) apply a finish primer/sealer according to the TDS and prep for topcoat according to the topcoat’s TDS
> (4) Please select a good 2k topcoat with appropriate reducer (slow, med, fast) for your environmental needs and apply according to TDS.
> 
> Now before anyone says anything about 1k paints and “cheap paints” know this, I don’t care what you think... there is not a 1k paint that will be as tough, hold a shine, or be as low maintenance as a quality 2k paint. Automotive 2k urethanes are fine for these builds and can be had much cheaper than some of the big name marine paints can but most will need sprayed. One of the reasons I always push the Valspar LIC40 is not only is it a 2k urethane, it is an industrial grade paint that is hard as nails and can be brushed or roll n tipped as well as sprayed! Fellas, you put a lot of effort, time, tears, and blood in to your builds and have all impressed me with your skills so far as hobbyists! Take a bit more time and you won’t have to say, I ran some paint, it’s not perfect, etc... I want to hear ya’ll saying, I built this skiff for me, to my needs, and the quality is unmatched by any production builder! Because, other than some cosmetics from what I am seeing from ya’ll... it’s true! Sorry for the long read, James


Well said brother ! We all need little encouragement now and then.
Regards
Capt Dave Jackson


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## Open Fly -The Later Years

Sethsawyer said:


> View attachment 123682
> View attachment 123684
> View attachment 123686
> View attachment 123688
> View attachment 123690
> This will be my last active post on this thread. She is all finished. I planned on making a Carbon tiller extension and cooler grab bar, and I will probably in the future, but the weather is to nice not to be fishing.
> 
> Fish caught on a silver/gold beadchain flash clouser.
> 
> 
> Thanks for all the support.


Seth, that is a beautiful skiff! You should be very proud.
Nice catch ! I love to chunk my own clousers.
Regards
Capt Dave Jackson


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## Open Fly -The Later Years

Boatbrains said:


> Yes, ya gotta use a daggum guide coat if ya want it to look good!


Hey guys, what the hell is a guide coat ?
Regards
Capt Dave Jackson


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## Open Fly -The Later Years

2002 Hells Bay Waterman 18


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## SeaDrifter

bigmamoo said:


> Hey guys, what the hell is a guide coat ?
> Regards
> Capt Dave Jackson


After I rough fair I lightly dust the area with rattle can paint and sand with a block. The areas that are low or need attention will be evident with this "guide coat".



Michael


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## Mike Haydon

There are also other things to use a guide coat. Other paints can gum up your sandpaper faster. You can use store bought guide coats that are like a powder. Or some use #2 pencil. All work, some just a little better than others. 


And @bigmamoo the guide in a coat pic was funny! Lol!


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## Charles Hadley

3


Mike Haydon said:


> There are also other things to use a guide coat. Other paints can gum up your sandpaper faster. You can use store bought guide coats that are like a powder. Or some use #2 pencil. All work, some just a little better than others.
> 
> 
> And @bigmamoo the guide in a coat pic was funny! Lol!


3m dry guide coat is best,as you rub it on it goes in places spray on doesn't.


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## Mike Haydon

Charles Hadley said:


> 3
> 
> 3m dry guide coat is best,as you rub it on it goes in places spray on doesn't.


Thanks Charles, that is what I was referring to when I said like a powder. Had a brain fart!


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## Guest

Charles Hadley said:


> 3
> 
> 3m dry guide coat is best,as you rub it on it goes in places spray on doesn't.


And a single tub will do 3 boats! For those that believe they will hit the budget



Mike Haydon said:


> Thanks Charles, that is what I was referring to when I said like a powder. Had a brain fart!


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## Charles Hadley

Boatbrains said:


> And a single tub will do 3 boats! For those that believe they will hit the budget[/QUOTEor the same boat 3 times


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## trekker

Travis Smith said:


> Looking good..
> 
> 
> One layer of 10 oz inside and out on the gutters won’t be strong enough.. too much flex


How much glass do you suggest?


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## 17376

Maybe 3 layers of CSM and some 10oz in between all that


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## Yako

Great build, I have enjoyed reading it all as I contemplate doing one myself.


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