# New to me trailer, are these issues?



## KurtActual (Sep 25, 2017)

So my previous post about the Mitzi on the huge trailer can be dismissed. I bought a Dragonfly Marsh Hen, and have some "concerns" over the trailer.

First concern was the amount of rust on the leaf springs.
Looks like plenty of solid metal left, but how long do I have until they should be replaced?
(And how do I shop for new ones)









Secondly, the hub and lug nuts are also pretty rusty.
Same questioning applies. Should I disassemble and inspect?









Lastly is the uneven wear pattern on the tires.
The 2nd and 4th columns of tread are "significantly" more worn than the other 3.









The boat was only towed long enough to get it from the previous owner's house to my own. I'd like to be sure it is roadtrip worthy before planning my first outings.
Thanks guys.


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## SomaliPirate (Feb 5, 2016)

The springs look like they'll probably be ok for another half season or so to me. If I were digging into it, I'd probably replace them though just so I don't have to do it later. I'd definitely pull the hubs and replace bearings if you don't know their history. I'd probably replace those tires and lug nuts too. Get some PB Blaster and an impact wrench and none of this should be a problem.


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## LowHydrogen (Dec 31, 2015)

To me they don't look all that bad, like @SomaliPirate said, I'd change them when you get a good opportunity. In the mean time, I would spray the nuts with PB and keep a spare tire/rim/hub with me in case you have an issue before you're ready to work on it.

You may want to also look at the spring shackle bolts, I can't see them from the pics but they can fail prior to the springs because the water / salt stays in the bushing/sleeve part. 

Where's the boat pics!?!?


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## KurtActual (Sep 25, 2017)

Spring shackles and bolts are surprisingly less rusty than the springs, lug nuts, and hub caps.
Any suggestions on starting points for shopping/researching leaf springs, bearings, hubs, etc?

Thanks gents!


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Bring it to a trailer repair shop for an estimate. View the items n prices, decide which items u can do n can't n go from there.....


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## SomaliPirate (Feb 5, 2016)

I use a local trailer shop for parts or TA Mahoney if I'm down in Tampa. There are plenty of places online but they'll probably hit you pretty hard for shipping springs and hubs and whatnot.


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## KurtActual (Sep 25, 2017)

Thanks guys. Used to doing my own auto/home work, so assumed I could do this too.


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## LowHydrogen (Dec 31, 2015)

Nice ride man!

I buy my stuff from a local Napa, but this place still has real parts people, not a pimple faced kid asking if your trailer is 2wd or 4wd. YMMV based on location.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

I kind of like that camo rubrail - goes well with the color of the skiff


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## KurtActual (Sep 25, 2017)

Agreed @yobata
I think it is a hydrodip or something. It has a cool fish skeleton pattern on it, but it is only the surface, which gets rubbed off. Imagine that, haha.

And thank you @LowHydrogen 
I'll probably bring the trailer by a local shop, see what they say, then do some Googling (cause that's what 33 year old millennial do)


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## DW2018 (Aug 21, 2018)

It's hard to tell in the top photo but it looks like the leading edge of the lowest leaf is separating from the one above it. I'm no expert but my understanding is that's a sign they should be replaced. A local trailer shop replaced both springs for about $230. 

The hubs on my new-to-me trailer were also pretty rusty. Replaced them with Vortex sealed hubs, about $67 each. There's some discussion on the forum about them, generally positive reviews. 

Given the corrosion showing on the springs and hubs, you might want to take a look at any wiring that might have been routinely submerged, it might be due for replacement too.

Great looking skiff!


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## manny2376 (Mar 15, 2007)

IMO replacing anything that’s worn on that trailer is what I would recommend. The few hundred bucks is worth the peace of mind. Having a bearing failure or a flat is just a pain in the ass that can easily be prevented with proper maintenance. Getting all repaired also give you a blank slate, and you can maintain from there. Having had a bearing failure on the road out of ENP in July has left me with a little PTSD when it comes to trailers.


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## Zika (Aug 6, 2015)

Fortunate to have a great local trailer shop that I normally use. But I have had good experiences with this on-line source for ordering accessories. Worth comparison shopping, anyway.

https://www.easternmarine.com

And I agree with the previous posters. If you can afford it, worth the peace of mind to have everything re-done so you're starting with a baseline and your own maintenance.

Enjoy the new skiff. Mark builds some cool boats.


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## not2shabby (Sep 14, 2016)

Where are you located?

I recently replaced leaf springs with a custom torsion axle and replaced bearings/hubs for less than $300. I did the work myself but worked with a local shop to order a ProSpec (custom) Dexter axle and I'm very happy with it. It's some of the best $$ I've spent on the skiff.


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## tailchaser16 (Sep 23, 2008)

I wouldn't worry about the leaf springs they look like they have some life left. How long depends on how how often you use. Spray them with WD-40 after every trip and you could go farther.

I would change the hubs & wheel bearings first. https://www.trailerpartsdepot.com/c-25-fh-hub-wheel-bearing.aspx

Check air pressure on sidewall of tires and maintain that always. 

Get a spare.


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## nautilott (Oct 29, 2017)

I'd dump the tires. You don't know what they have been through and how much air pressure they've been running, which could aversely affect the sidewall cord integrity. You can look on the sidewall to see how old they are from the DOT numbers. The first two numbers are the week and the last two are the year they were produced. If they don't show those four numbers, they are WAY old...and not to be trusted.


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## Boneheaded (Oct 4, 2017)

trailer leafs/bearings/hubs/ axels, is all very doable. Northern Tool and equipment is youre best friend you can get the hubs, axel and springs there. Finally not sure how much you tow but cosider upgrading to 13''s for highway travel, got a pair from walmart on galvanized rim for 115 shipped to my door.


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## Salt of the Water (Feb 26, 2018)

I’ve bought two used trailers and restored both of them. It’s easy to do yourself and will save you some money over getting a shop to do it.


If you don’t have a spare tire currently, I’d buy 2 new tires and then keep the existing ones for spares. Your current ones look worn but not cracked. May want to verify that everything is squared up and pulls true. Mount both spares on the trailer if you can. If not mount one and store one.


You can replace just the bearings in the hubs and re-pack them with fresh grease, but new galvanized hubs are cheap insurance in my mind. On both of my trailers I bought and installed new hubs, then put the old hubs in cases the new hubs came with and put fresh bearings and grease in them. Your trailer doesn’t have a ton of weight, but those little tires (12s?) are spinning many more rpms than your vehicle tires so hub maintenance will be critical.


If you keep an eye out at academy they sometimes clear out their smaller hubs and tires at half price (they don’t sell as fast as the big ones). I ended up getting 2 packs of tires at amazon cheaper than I could find them locally.


I keep the following in a tote that I call my trailer box and take it with me on any trailer trip farther than an hour from the house:

· refurbed old hubs and a tub of grease

· disposable gloves

· breaker bar, crescent wrench, and sockets

· a couple wood blocks for chocks or beating on bearing buddies

· grease gun

· rubber mallet and small sledge

· spare tire for the small boat (big boat trailer spare doesn’t fit)


Mcclain on I-10 has galvanized and stainless trailer hardware (u-bolts, nuts, brackets, etc) in a wider assortment than anywhere else in Houston and usually competitive with online prices.


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## KurtActual (Sep 25, 2017)

Dude, you guys came through strong. I appreciate everyone's input. The pricepoint of the skiff was low enough that I have plenty left over to overhaul the trailer, even just for peace of mind.
@not2shabby I am in Hockley, TX (NW Houston) can you PM the shop info? Think they could work over the phone since I am not local?


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## jmrodandgun (Sep 20, 2013)

Did you have to dip into your beer money fund to fix the trailer? 



KurtActual said:


>


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## EvanHammer (Aug 14, 2015)

jmrodandgun said:


> Did you have to dip into your beer money fund to fix the trailer?


That's what I was thinking too.


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## Plantation (Nov 24, 2015)

I would also look into what not2shabby said and purchase a torsion axle. I will never again dip leaf springs in the salt. I used to go through leaf springs every other year or so and once while on the road. Torsion axles can lower that trailer if desired and are less maintenance in my experience. Probably save you money over the long haul. I speak for myself but thats what I would do.


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## fishnpreacher (Jul 28, 2018)

If you have the spare $$ go ahead and replace hubs and tires. Replace the bearings in one (or both) of the old hubs and keep for a spare. It would be worth having a competent trailer shop look at the axle and springs. I have a friend who trailered his boat nearly 300 miles, then broke an axle just a few miles into his return trip. A rollback and a trip to a marina got him back on the road. Can't be too careful out there.


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## KurtActual (Sep 25, 2017)

Yeah, waiting to hear back from @not2shabby on his trailer shop. Would love to lower the trailer a bit and have a nicer ride for the old girl.
Plans are new springs, hubs, wheels, and tires at a minimum. If reasonable, I'll convert to a torsion axle.
Thanks again gents.
Also, no, I choose Natty Light by choice. Drink one back to back with a Michelob Ultra, they're identical, except in price. I quit drinking craft beer when I moved out of the PacNW.


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## EvanHammer (Aug 14, 2015)

You can measure your frame width and call McClain for a local price on a torsion axle. Easy to install and it will come with new hubs on it.


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## KurtActual (Sep 25, 2017)

Update: I am stubborn and didnt want to haul the boat to a shop.
Pulled the hubs, and found them well greased, but needing to be serviced.

















Did enough googling to find out I have 1-1/16th inch spindles. So I went to Academy and bought two fresh hubs.
Next on the list are the springs. They may be addressed with a new axle, I havent gotten there yet.


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## Jpscott1 (May 2, 2017)

I would buy new leaf springs and ubolts. Cant see in the pic- but you probably want to replace the bolts that affix the leaf springs to trailer frame as well. The spindle looks fine to me- so I would probably not replace the axle if it is solid. You should be able to locate the parts from the trailer manufacturer. eTrailer.com is also a good resource. I would use an angle grinder/side cutter to remove the old ubolts. I would not even try to remove those old rusted bolts with a wrench.


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## krash (Jan 9, 2007)

If you decide to replace axle, I'd go springless, torsion style axle !


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## Salt of the Water (Feb 26, 2018)

I agree with *Jpscott1*, spindles look good and what we can see of the axle makes it look like it's in good shape. I wouldn't be scared to run those leafs for a while. You could spot check one with a wire wheel to clean it up and see if it's just surface rust or actual concerning corrosion.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

not2shabby said:


> Where are you located?
> 
> I recently replaced leaf springs with a custom torsion axle and replaced bearings/hubs for less than $300. I did the work myself but worked with a local shop to order a ProSpec (custom) Dexter axle and I'm very happy with it. It's some of the best $$ I've spent on the skiff.


I am in the process of doing the same! I ended up doing a significant amount of measuring and CAD. I will do a post about it but I should be able to dry launch almost anywhere. I dropped about 5-7 in from the trailer height. My new dexter axle was around $250. 

To the OP I figured if all the high end trailers were using the torsion there must be a reason. I would keep the hubs and go with the torsion axle. I have a lighter skiff and it bounces pretty hard on the springs. I am hoping that with the new torsion it will be a even smoother ride.


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## KurtActual (Sep 25, 2017)

Yeah the ride is stupid bouncy. I think the springs they used are way-overkill anyways.
There is a company down the road that says they're a Dexter dealer. After I splash the skiff for the first time this weekend, I'll be making a visit to that shop.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

You just have to keep on them. They have been slammed since I tried to get a quote back in late November. I should have my axle sometime this month.

EDIT: I am going direct to Dexter, not a retailer.


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## KurtActual (Sep 25, 2017)

I'd love to see your trailer when you've got it rigged up!


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## not2shabby (Sep 14, 2016)

freeclimber said:


> I have a lighter skiff and it bounces pretty hard on the springs. I am hoping that with the new torsion it will be a even smoother ride.


Your Devilray is lighter than my 17.8, but you can get the elastomers/rubber in the torsion axle set up custom for the load. I am SO pleased with how the trailer pulls and how smooth the ride is with the new axle. My skiff is about 1,000lbs loaded and I had Dexter set it up with 1,200lb elastomers. The trailer was so rough and bouncy with leaf springs and now it's smooth as silk even on our terrible roads.


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## KurtActual (Sep 25, 2017)

My hull: ~200#
Motor: ~115#
Rigging: ~100#(max)

Trailer paperwork says 1500# capacity, and from what I can find on those springs, they're 2200# range.

I think a torsion axle would be terrific.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

not2shabby said:


> ... *smooth as silk* *even on our terrible roads*.


That is what I am hoping for! I felt terrible driving though West Palm Beach on 75 across to 95 N from the Chokoloskee to West Palm Beach. No issues yet though on the sprung trailer. The new axle should be here in a week.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Some ACE hardware stores have trailer parts including springs and u bolts


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## KurtActual (Sep 25, 2017)

Thanks yobata.
Just installed a new hub last night, will do the second one tonight. Bought "bearing savers" to go with them. Already in contact with Dexter to research torsion axles, which would mean new fenders too.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Not necessarily. You can pretty much put the axle in the same place as the springs. Or change it. 

I went with the latter and made my trailer have more squat (Lower and wider axle). I will most likely need some new fenders of sorts.


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## KurtActual (Sep 25, 2017)

Yeah, I think I'd like to lower it. Right now I can tow without tilting the motor, it rides so high.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

KurtActual said:


> Yeah, I think I'd like to lower it. Right now I can tow without tilting the motor, it rides so high.


Yep I have the same problem. Turns out the axle won't be ready to ship till the 14th.


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## Steve_Mevers (Feb 8, 2013)

At the recommendation of a trailer shop, I replaced the open end lug nuts and started using solid lug nuts with some marine grease (like the ones below). You can use the trailer all year in the saltwater and they come off very easy and never rust onto the lugs. https://www.amazon.com/McGard-74043...ocphy=9012215&hvtargid=pla-448949428310&psc=1

I would replace the tires with Maxxis 8008 tires and watch how they wear, make sure you keep them at the recommended tire pressure. If they start wearing on the inside or oustide edges it usually means you have a bent axle.


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