# Chart plotter current draw?



## DBStoots (Jul 9, 2011)

Interestintgly, I was running a Simrad NSS evo3S 9" with the FMT chip and I also would get a low voltage warning after leaving the Simrad on for an extended period without the engine running. On Friday, I fished for the first time with a new Simard NSS evo3 12' installed and did not get the warning a single time. Not sure if the new processor in the evo3S uses more power. I look forward to seeing some responses from the electronics experts we have on the Forum.


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## Darkside (Oct 11, 2019)

I also have a nss12 evo3 w/fmt & if it runs with engine off for extended period I get the low voltage warning.


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## matt_baker_designs (Nov 27, 2012)

I get the low voltage at times on my Simrad evo3 12 when I start the motor. Usually it happens mid-day after I’ve been running the livewell for a while. It kind of drives me nuts. I’m thinking of adding another battery, a smaller lithium, to just power the Simrad.


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## Mike Haydon (Dec 19, 2019)

This is crazy that you cant run these things without killing the battery. Is there a way to remove the FMT and run it to see if that makes a difference? I'm following because I will be buying a gps soon.


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## Noxicfish (Dec 15, 2009)

I recently had the same issue with my skiff. 
First time the battery left me stranded after fishing most the day off the beach last summer. Was able to jump battery off from one of my trolling motor batteries and get home. PC1200 showed it was dead and replaced it.
Fast forward a year later started having the same issue with low voltage alarm.

Upgraded to a PC1500 and has been better. Have noticed this more so when I have the livewell pump on for a good bit along with my lowrance carbon on for a while with FMT.

When it’s just the unit on I can go longer. Never had issues before. Haven’t been able to pinpoint further but I ensure I have a jumper cable long enough to reach from bench seat in my ECC EVO to the console now after last summer.


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## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

Before you get all fired up... Pull that starting battery and have it checked out - it may be on its way out... Secondly most aren't aware that a dual battery setup to provide 24 volts for a trolling motor.. also will allow one of your trolling batts to provide 12 volt power on it's "low side" without hurting its 24volt usage... I wasn't aware of that until we installed a trolling motor on my old Maverick that was previously set up with two batteries ( a primary batt and a #2 batt) that were joined by a common battery switch to allow either battery to be used as a starting battery or allow them to be combined for a very strong 12volt start... 

In short with a bit of work and some extra battery cable as well as a battery switch you can re-configure your current setup so that whenever the starting battery is low (batt #1) you can use the switch to start your motor with batt # 2 ( the low side of your trolling motor setup) then once your motor is started, switch back so that your motor is properly charging your starting battery (provided it's actually a good battery...).

Hope this helps... and... "Aren't boats fun?"


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## mt hwy (Mar 18, 2021)

Yeah, I wasn’t sure about that. So even though the two TM batteries are wired together in series to produce 24 volts - I can still wire or jump in parallel off one of the TM batteries to jump or boost, providing 12 volts to my starting battery? If so, that’s a good solution. All three batts are in the center console, so maybe a short set of jumper cables so I could pull off either TM battery, or like you say Bob just wire to one with a switch. Also, I assume you can charge a TM battery while running if that Battery is connected to the starting Battery?

I did pull all three Batteries and fully charged them with a good charger and then load tested each - repeated that several times, all batteries held up solidly when load tested. Those PC1200’s just aren’t that big capacity. I’m not panicking too badly … yet!


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## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

If you’ll look at how dual batts can generate 24 volts, you’ll see that only one batt gives 24 volts the other batt is the only one that still can provide 12 volts (not both of them…).


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## mt hwy (Mar 18, 2021)

I’ll look into pulling 12 v from one of the TM series batts. I was recently following a thread on those portable battery boosters/power packs - NOCO seemed to be the hot brand, guess I need to consider something like, too.


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## ISLA Mapping (Jan 12, 2020)

Mapping chips have zero to do with more or less draw on a battery. If the low battery is happening with ISLA charts running its also going to be happening with the chips removed and running the cartoon like charts in the unit. The next time it happens remove any mapping chips from being engaged. It sounds like a weak battery in the system or a weak link in the connection between the battery and and unit. Ive run S models and non S models in 12 and 16 inch sizes all day long on a single good house battery on a skiff with never an issue and in many cases the engine is off for more than a couple of hours. I run two batteries for the trolling motor and a separate house battery to start and run the display. A typical day for me can be as long as 10 hours out. I have purchased a brand new battery before that appeared to test fine with a standard tester but under any load it failed. Best to load test any new battery before taking it home to make sure it will hold up. Also, have one of those small very compact emergency battery jumpers. They are cheap at about $30 fit in any hatch easily and pack a lot of power to jump start any weak battery in an emergency.


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## mt hwy (Mar 18, 2021)

ISLA Mapping said:


> Mapping chips have zero to do with more or less draw on a battery. If the low battery is happening with ISLA charts running its also going to be happening with the chips removed and running the cartoon like charts in the unit. The next time it happens remove any mapping chips from being engaged. It sounds like a weak battery in the system or a weak link in the connection between the battery and and unit. Ive run S models and non S models in 12 and 16 inch sizes all day long on a single good house battery on a skiff with never an issue and in many cases the engine is off for more than a couple of hours. I run two batteries for the trolling motor and a separate house battery to start and run the display. A typical day for me can be as long as 10 hours out. I have purchased a brand new battery before that appeared to test fine with a standard tester but under any load it failed. Best to load test any new battery before taking it home to make sure it will hold up. Also, have one of those small very compact emergency battery jumpers. They are cheap at about $30 fit in any hatch easily and pack a lot of power to jump start any weak battery in an emergency.


Thank you for the reply, I didn’t know if FMT had anything to do with current draw, or not. Same battery layout for me, using three Odyssey PC1200’s which are rated at 540 CCA - two for 24 volt TM, one for cranking/display. I’m gonna upgrade cranking/display battery to an Odyssey PC 1500 which is rated for 850 CCA - over a 50% increase, and yes, will get a compact jump starter, and then check connections, etc


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## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

One other little gremlin to look out for in your electrical system - and that is bad spots (weak connections, corroded wire where you can't see it, bad splices, etc.). On more than one occasion I've been stumped by something electrical not working properly. One of the things a skilled electrician will do (not me, I can do the basics but not the skilled electrickery stuff...) is to check each wire with a an external meter (the kind that has a pair of arms you close around any wire to find out exactly what voltage its actually carrying...without any physical penetration...). Find a wire that's only allowing 7 or 8 volts to pass and you're well on your way to finding the bad spot (or bad wire, or bad circuit..).

Hope this helps, "aren't boats fun?"


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## mt hwy (Mar 18, 2021)

Good point, continuity Tester light might just light up and show current and you think ya got 12v when you don’t have 12v. And I don’t like jabbing the thin sharp point thru the wire insulation in a marine environment. I’ve had a sharp bend or kink in wire rotting thru or an old splice creating exactly the situation you describe on my 10 year old skiff, one after another …


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