# Australian Skiff build



## Guest (Jan 15, 2019)

Very cool! Are you not concerned with weight? Seems you have chosen two pretty heavy cores if I am not mistaken. For your main hull coring you only need a 5lb density foam such as divinycell h80 or equivlent. Just a thought but you might have a different corelite product than I am familiar with also...


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## Troy_time (Jan 15, 2019)

Oh yes should say the corelite is pvc h80
Same as divinycell 
Nearly half the price in Australia


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## Fishshoot (Oct 26, 2017)

Looking forward to following this one!!


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## EvanHammer (Aug 14, 2015)

This is gonna be badass.


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## Padre (Jul 29, 2016)

I go to Australia every other year. I am scheduled for 2019. When you get it done, I'll come pole you around. Oh yeah, I bring a bottle of whiskey for my mates who take me fishing.


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## Troy_time (Jan 15, 2019)

Padre said:


> I go to Australia every other year. I am scheduled for 2019. When you get it done, I'll come pole you around. Oh yeah, I bring a bottle of whiskey for my mates who take me fishing.


More then welcome to come out with me when it’s done


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## Troy_time (Jan 15, 2019)

About to start to cut my strips.
Does any one have any recommendations for what size works well?
Was thinking 3 or 4 inches


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## Rick hambric (Jun 24, 2017)

3in with a bead and cove joint works well. It’s cost you time with a router, but gives you a better end product


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## Pole Position (Apr 3, 2016)

If I'm not mistaken, Travis Smith used Gorilla glue on his Conchfish 16 to adhere the strips.

https://www.microskiff.com/threads/conchfish-16.51470/page-4



" 2. Anytime you are joining two things, you don’t want a “dry” joint. Using the gorilla glue filled this joint. There is really no pressure on the joints as there is 4 layers of glass over it on each side."


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Looking forward to this.


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## BassFlats (Nov 26, 2018)

Use the widest strips you can get away with. I built a round chined boat in the past and had to use 1" wide strips. Looking at your stations ,I think you are able to go wider. I glued mine together with pre- thickened epoxy from a caulking tube, but mine were wood strips and my cloth wasn't that many layers.


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

Pole Position said:


> If I'm not mistaken, Travis Smith used Gorilla glue on his Conchfish 16 to adhere the strips.
> 
> https://www.microskiff.com/threads/conchfish-16.51470/page-4
> 
> ...


I've read a little bit of discussion on this -- apparently the gorilla glue works well, but not necessarily any better than thickened epoxy, and is more expensive per ounce. It is more convenient, though, so it may be worth it to you.

Really look forward to watching the build! I'm already thinking about doing something similar after my Conchfish build.


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## Pole Position (Apr 3, 2016)

I'm probably getting in over my head here as Lord knows Im clueless, but it is my understanding that you want a bit of a gap in the seams as you get a better bond when fairing w/ the epoxy/filler than you would having a number of hard spots, that being said, if one did the cove/bead joint, would that create a number of hard spots? I'm asking for a friend....


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Pole Position said:


> I'm probably getting in over my head here as Lord knows Im clueless, but it is my understanding that you want a bit of a gap in the seams as you get a better bond when fairing w/ the epoxy/filler than you would having a number of hard spots, that being said, if one did the cove/bead joint, would that create a number of hard spots? I'm asking for a friend....


The gaps won't hurt anything. On my Conchfish build I will probably use Gorilla Glue to glue my strips to each other. My understanding is the foam core will break before that bond does. Any remaining gaps, I'll fill with an epoxy filler/putty.


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## Flatbroke426 (May 5, 2018)

I'm looking forward to following your progress. You did right reaching out to Chris. He has an amazing mind for boat building.


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## Pole Position (Apr 3, 2016)

Sublime said:


> The gaps won't hurt anything. On my Conchfish build I will probably use Gorilla Glue to glue my strips to each other. My understanding is the foam core will break before that bond does. Any remaining gaps, I'll fill with an epoxy filler/putty.


Yeah, that is what I was trying to say ie gaps are good / hard spots are not...


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## BassFlats (Nov 26, 2018)

Gorilla glue is probably adequate in this situation because it is being encapsulated on both sides with resin and cloth. Other than that, it has no reliable use in boat building.


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## Guest (Jan 18, 2019)

The hard spots won’t make a difference in this type of build because they aren’t enough to make a difference. Gorilla glue/ bonding putty either is fine. I like the Gorilla glue method myself. It clamps good, fairs easy, and it is very convenient!


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

Boatbrains said:


> The hard spots won’t make a difference in this type of build because they aren’t enough to make a difference. Gorilla glue/ bonding putty either is fine. I like the Gorilla glue method myself. It clamps good, fairs easy, and it is very convenient!


I wouldn't be as worried about hard spots as I would voids, or areas where the foam might touch but there's no epoxy between the two pieces. I would think to accomplish that, you'd need to fill the cove before setting the bead in it, but that's just a guess (I have no experience with that at all). I'd rather go with square cut planks and leave a slight gap to make sure I get contact with the epoxy along the entire joint.


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## Guest (Jan 18, 2019)

Just keep in mind that all that gap filling adds up to weight increase. A little putty/glue on the cove, screw and clamp and your done. Either way works and is plenty substantial for a skiff build. Just keep it in line with the plans and don’t overthink it, you’ll be fine.


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

Boatbrains said:


> Just keep in mind that all that gap filling adds up to weight increase. A little putty/glue on the cove, screw and clamp and your done. Either way works and is plenty substantial for a skiff build. Just keep it in line with the plans and don’t overthink it, you’ll be fine.


That's true, but it's minimal. Say you have a 1/16" gap, 3/4" core, and the gap averages 18 ft long (obviously a couple will be longer due to curvature, but many will be less as they work down the hull). If you have 50 seams to fill, that's about 500 cubic inches of thickened epoxy, or just over 2 gallons. Thickened epoxy should be slightly lighter than neat epoxy, but let's just say it's about 8 lbs per gallon.

That's 16 lbs or so total -- not even 16 lbs extra. So say you end up using twice as much in this method rather than bead and cove, so you are adding an extra 8 lbs doing it this way, spread along the whole hull.

For me, it's a no brainer to fill a gap I can clearly see, with the confidence that I've got a good bond where I didn't miss any areas. Bead and cove would be stronger (more surface area on the bond), but these areas aren't carrying high loads. As far as assembly goes, I think you would need to dry fit all the panels, then remove them to fill the coves, then reassemble. With a nice gap you can just cram the putty in there until it comes out the other side, and it's easy to visually inspect the joint as you go.

Just one man's opinion, though -- there are many ways to get it done. So much for not overthinking, right?  

Sorry for the tangent, I'm at work and my mind is wandering while waiting on this program to finish chugging along.


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## Guest (Jan 18, 2019)

I agree with both ways lol! It’s all about what works for you. I don’t honestly think one way is stronger than the other as the glue used is way stronger than the 5lb foam anyways lol!


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## BassFlats (Nov 26, 2018)

The other thing to keep in mind when using gorilla glue,is it expands. One of its benefits is your joints do not need to be totally tight. Obviously, the tighter the joint the better. There might not be a whole lot of filling to do because of the expanding foam glue. Wear gloves and crappy clothes.That stuff is difficult to remove. And depending on the humidity, it can start foaming quickly.


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## Rick hambric (Jun 24, 2017)

The best filler I’ve seen with a bead/cove joint is Corebond putty. It’s light, easy to sand, and is designed for bonding with pvc foam. Lookup HHH Boatworks on Instagram. They have some good pics on this subject


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Rick hambric said:


> The best filler I’ve seen with a bead/cove joint is Corebond putty. It’s light, easy to sand, and is designed for bonding with pvc foam. Lookup HHH Boatworks on Instagram. They have some good pics on this subject


Corebond is POLYESTER based, right?


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## Rick hambric (Jun 24, 2017)

yobata said:


> Corebond is POLYESTER based, right?


Yes along with the DIAB divilette. It will work just fine when bonding the core together. After you fair and sand the core, epoxy will adhere to it just fine.


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## Troy_time (Jan 15, 2019)

Was thinking of using this product to fair the gaps


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## Troy_time (Jan 15, 2019)

Stations all up, ready for core
I dare say will just go with straight cuts or bevel the edges a little 
I feel the time to bead and cove would be better fairing


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## Troy_time (Jan 15, 2019)

Having run a string line and straight edge over it
There seems to be some low spots.
Do I just pack these out as I go ?


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## BassFlats (Nov 26, 2018)

The bead and cove will ,to an extent, align itself. This is very helpful between the stations. This and getting the stations as true as possible will cut down on extra filling and sanding.


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## Troy_time (Jan 15, 2019)

Spent some time making sure I have got everything true as I could

There will definitely be some areas that will need packing , which I say comes down to converting everything from inches to mm and expanding the whole boat , which has highlighted the areas from plans that were not 100% true

Now comes down to some advise 
I’m going straight transom, like the new marquesas 
Now should I be adding a angle rake in it ? Ie has like a factory engine wedge


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## BassFlats (Nov 26, 2018)

What kind of a transom angle did the designer specify. I like a 10 degree transom angle for looks and function. I don't know if you are planning to use a jack plate or if you fish very shallow water. The greater the transom angle, the higher you can mount your motor.


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## Guest (Jan 21, 2019)

Are you planning on power tilt n trim? If so go with around 14* on transom amgle. 
You can use a batten over your frames to correct for the low/short measurements now, fix those stations now so your not fighting it with the expensive stuff!


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

interesting structure you're working in.


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## Troy_time (Jan 15, 2019)

Yep will be going power tilt and trim 

I have some off cuts of mdf and was thinking of using it to pack it out before coring 

Plans look like they ask for 10 degrees

Never really running super super shallow, always in around a foot and half of water

I’m working in under my house. A very nice old queenslander


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

I had to look up the architecture, lovely country homes. Very like the old florida homes with large verandas and shaded overhangs to keep the sun off the windows. also raised on pilings like many old florida homes in coastal regions.


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## jonny (May 1, 2007)

I used h80 cut in 1" strips. Held together with Gorilla glue. The glue works great and expands to fill the gaps. And yes the foam will give before the glue. Make sure you have some kind of release on the stations. I used a low grip painters tape. And suran wrap on larger areas. Tooth picks can be handy for temporarly pinning pieces together.


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## Troy_time (Jan 15, 2019)

Went with 4” strips on the larger flat areas, ended up going with gorilla glue and will then go back over and will with epoxy filler.









Been slow going with work being super busy and having a new born.
But just taking my time


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## Chris Morejohn (May 12, 2014)

Sitting onboard my sailboat anchored off of Rapa Nui Easter Island with WiFi and I can’t get ashore because the swell is so big this morning. Time to write.
I will chime in here. The whole thing with core building is this. You need station molds to define your shape. You then need to afix the core to its as quickly, cheaply and as easily as possible to be able to fiberglass over the core.
REMEMBER THIS... when you start to fiberglass the core you will resin coat your whole hull. By doing this the resin will flow and run into all your voids. Just like it does with kerfed core. But better.
This means all you have to do is use just enough whatever glue-putty type works for you to just hold the core in place till you start fiberglassing the hull.
There will only be hard spots, edges if you use too much Silica in your putty. Don’t use more than 10% to thicken.
Now for all the guys out there that are giving advice but most likely have never built a one-off Skiff in core....
Here’s my 2 cents worth..
Bead and cove is a mess because you HAVE TO apply the glue to it first every strip. Very hard to get resin putty in that curve. I hate it. Takes TOO MUCH TIME.
Make all your strips as wide as possible in flat areas. Once glassed on both sides it’s all good.
Adding pizza pie pieces in anywhere is ok. It’s core and when it’s all glassed it’s all one piece.
Don’t worry about the weight of the resin or putty in the gaps for a hull shape like this one. 
Most skiffs that are hand laid up with Kerfed core in a mold have some air voids in the core. Water will get in there for sure. Water weighs more than resin.
Don’t stress, just get the core on, then putty in big gaps, Fair for glassing, then glass the hull.
Pull off, grind out all the drips and goo, Fair, fill and glass the inside. 
I will be at sea for a month on my way to the Marquesas islands so will check in again in the future,
Have fun with that Skiff build downunder. Hah, we are both in the same hemisphere now.


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## BassFlats (Nov 26, 2018)




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## Troy_time (Jan 15, 2019)

Moving along with the core now

Now for chine and spray rail
I noticed a few guys doing them in timber or coosa 
Just wondering why that was
I’ll be laying 4 layers of 400g inside and out and the chine will have double ups on that
So would laying it with core be fine then


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## Guest (Feb 10, 2019)

In my opinion you will be fine just using the same core you have built the rest with. Not sure why some used coosa in that area. Wood, maybe to keep the rail height higher vs adding 3/4” core in there???


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## Pole Position (Apr 3, 2016)

I was thinking that the spray rails / chine were supposed to go on first before the hull strips ( ?? ).....and I think Boatbrains is correct why 1/4" wood/coosa is used regarding the height.

( And keep in mind that I was one of the posters Chris referenced who was offering advice having never built a boat before )


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## Troy_time (Jan 15, 2019)

Ok I’ll go with just using the core on them, the height saving of 8mm really doesn’t seem worth buying something for themg

Have left them to the end as with the boards either side, as the hull really curves and can get a much better fit for the line with the strips going on, as in some areas it it a lot rounder then I would have thought, meaning if I did them first I would have 1.5 to 2 “ gap around it


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## Guest (Feb 17, 2019)

Any word from down under?


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## Troy_time (Jan 15, 2019)

Slow going this week

Sick kids, so no sleep 

But got a little more done 

Will need to get some more core 
So will take it to a total of 9 sheets needed , I was hopeful doing it with 8 

Also have used 2 gorilla glue and will need one more 

Would say for any one else not altering the plans you would easy do it with 8 sheets


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## Guest (Feb 17, 2019)

Lookin like a boat!


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## Troy_time (Jan 15, 2019)

Little more done this morning 

Feels slow going , only getting an hour each morning before work


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## Guest (Feb 19, 2019)

That’s all it takes brother, keep pluggin and before ya know it you will be fishen!


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## Tip'n'Tail (Jan 2, 2017)

Hey Troy, are there a full set of plans for the Megalops 18 or did you just work off the line drawing on Chris Morejohn's blog?


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## Troy_time (Jan 15, 2019)

Just off the drawings, and a extra guidance from Chris 
Chris didn’t have time before his trip to do a full set, as I wanted something with more freeboard to suit the conditions over here. 
He had been super helpful with answering the questions I have had.
The plans seems to be a little off here and there 
I’d say if anyone else wanted to do it, to get them drawn up in CAD, just so you get a better flow. 

So with my boat , I added 5” freeboard, expanded the dimensions by 10%, built in where the sponson would have been and went with a vee bottom instead of flattening out


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## Rick hambric (Jun 24, 2017)

So I’m other words.... you turned a megalops into a megaladon???


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## Guest (Feb 20, 2019)

Rick hambric said:


> So I’m other words.... you turned a megalops into a megaladon???


Hell yeah!


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## Guest (Feb 20, 2019)

This is what it’s about folks! Get some plans and use your imagination, take your time, and anyone can build a sweeeet rig of their liking! Keep at it Troy, she’s gonna be nice!


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## Troy_time (Jan 15, 2019)

Small progress 

Just chines and spray rails to fill in now


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## Guest (Mar 6, 2019)

Oh hell, I better get busy!


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## Troy_time (Jan 15, 2019)

Boatbrains said:


> Oh hell, I better get busy!


I don’t think you’ll have any troubles turning your skiffs out before me

I’ve set a goal to be finished in November 
Ready for the start of the run of baby marlin


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Troy_time said:


> I don’t think you’ll have any troubles turning your skiffs out before me
> 
> I’ve set a goal to be finished in November
> Ready for the start of the run of baby marlin


He's sandbagging. He probably already has the x-caliber complete.


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## Troy_time (Jan 15, 2019)

Sublime said:


> He's sandbagging. He probably already has the x-caliber complete.


Oh I’d say he’s out fishing in it now


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## Guest (Mar 6, 2019)

Sublime said:


> He's sandbagging. He probably already has the x-caliber complete.





Troy_time said:


> Oh I’d say he’s out fishing in it now


I only wish! I’m sure @Think-like-a-Snook wished too! Soon enough though, soon enough!


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## Troy_time (Jan 15, 2019)

What’s everyone mix for filling the gaps between the boards 

Was thinking 70/30 q-cell / silica 

Just got to glue the spray rails in place


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## Guest (Mar 11, 2019)

That should be fine!


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## Troy_time (Jan 15, 2019)

First order of epoxy has arrived 

Now to fill gaps and fair out the hull ready for glassing


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## Chris Morejohn (May 12, 2014)

Pole Position said:


> I was thinking that the spray rails / chine were supposed to go on first before the hull strips ( ?? ).....and I think Boatbrains is correct why 1/4" wood/coosa is used regarding the height.
> 
> ( And keep in mind that I was one of the posters Chris referenced who was offering advice having never built a boat before )


Oh man, I did it again.. stuck my foot in my mouth. Thruth is I was not referencing you but a couple unnamed others that have emailed me asking tons of basic build questions and then give advice here that to me is way misleading. The plans for this build here I gave for free plus my email time. 
At present I am in Nuku Hiva with WiFi. As I feel anyone building from my plans is like having an outside kid being born I want to give help, support and some personal guidance. Sites like this one are incredible for the immediate info, support and advice. I wish I had more time to give but at present I’am way off the matrix grid.
I will again add a few thoughts here. 
First off just remember that all production skiffs are made up of Kerfed core sheets. That’s small little squares. Some skiffs being infused can use flat sheets with vent holes In flat sections.
This means that all your personal skiffs if bought from a builder are just built of little checkerboard squares with resin filling in the gaps. 
Next thing I will say here is this, there are many ways to build a hull in core. This hull shape lends itself to using big flat sheets on the bottom and sides. You could core this boat in Kerfed core very quickly in big sheets. 
The main thing is to get the core on the jig, fill in the big gaps with putty and resin then glass.
The hull lines for this design are on my blog available for free. I lofted and drew out, cut the original stations, had the hull cored using bead and cove dry fitted, glassed and initial fairing done in 4 days. I have built lots of boats, Skiffs so this time is normal for me. I give my advice, opinions here based on building boats since 1976 and having grown up on a sailboat since 1973. Take your time, enjoy the process. After a few Skiff builds you will figure out how to save time, make cleaner cuts etc.
Now the next thing for home builders and tweakers to consider is when you take a hull shape like I gave to this gentleman is that I have spent lots of time figuring out it’s displacement and how it will float as to my build specs.
Once you add 10% volume to its design you have in essence changed my design from a big technical Skiff to.. well a nice big Skiff. Too big for this site I’am sure. Now this build will not float anywhere like my original design was meant to float and perform. If built as to my specs it will end up being a very tippy cranky Skiff that will be very weak. The hull layup scantlings totally change from a Micro Skiff build to a big bayboat build. I just got ashore and read what’s been done. It’s all fine but what he asked me in emails now changes because I was never informed about the 10% volume added. Totally different game plan now.
Email me and I will give new specs as a guidance. This hull now needs to be built heavier or it will not perform or hold up to what it’s will be used for.
Now if build properly then with the added freeboard and displacement it will be a fine Skiff. Otherwise it will be a disaster for sure. In truth it’s not my design anymore. 10% of volume in the underwater hull skin is huge in volume and displacement. 
As for transom angles I always use 12degrees as a minimum stern angle. Anything less and you loose performance in trim. Best to always look at the original designs stern angle.
I am at times outspoken in advice here regarding my designs. This is because I am protecting my designs and you the home builder that will be out $ if doing things wrong or with not good real information.
Please note here that is have found in my time building that....
Polyester resin will never stick to epoxy....ever.
Epoxy resin will feel and look like it’s sticking to polyester resin but in time it’s bond will fail for sure.
Otherwise the build is going along well....


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## Chris Morejohn (May 12, 2014)

I talked to the builder yesterday and got the info of what’s up. I will explain here what I would do as to how to glass a one off cored hull in epoxy or polyester resin. This process is what I have done. There are many other ways to go about it. This is my version.
Firsts off this method is for all my designs, just the types and layers of cloth will change depending on the skiff size, motor, weight etc. so a CONCHFISH 16 hull is going to weigh all up 300-330 lbs it needs lighter cloth for the skin where as this skiff should weigh around 1500+ lbs unrigged. Needs a thicker skin inside and out and all has to be built accordingly.
IF USEING EPOXY RESIN....for the hull build then you need to follow these guidelines.
- when using epoxy resin you have to remove the amoine blush from its cured surface each time the resin cures. If not it acts like a wax coating and the next layer will not bond well. You can use acetone, vinegar, alcohol or what we used in the Virgin Islands 29 years ago which cost us $60.00 a drum was white Cruzan Rum when building large wood catamarans.
You can also use peel ply which to me is the best method. And I still sand afterwards.
What all this means is when you roll on a coat of epoxy over the core to bond the strips together you have to be ready to fill in the gaps with putty at the same time. If not the gaps will not be easy to get the blush off of.
Do this in sections.
Once the hull is coated and filled in you can then Fair off the putt. I would use my sanding disc setup that I showed on Travis thread.
Once fair, you are ready to layup the cloth.
Precut all your cloth for the outside and roll up neatly and all being marked in felt pen on the hull and the cloth sections. Make sure you know which side starts where.
When using epoxy resin it’s very hard to layup using 1-1/2 oz. matt cloth as a first base layer. For this hull I would still use a layer of 1-1/2 oz. matt then a layer of 18oz. Roving on top. Just roll on resin to the hull, lay the matt section on top, roll on lots of resin to soak in, use a hard roller to roll out the air and get it laying down nice and then lat out the 18oz roving on top and wet out till alls clear. Use a squeegee to move excess resin to the next section and move along. 
I would layup just the bottom first to the chine stopping just inside the inner edge of the chine. That is have no cloth hanging out to have to grind off later. Do your sections in 60” widths. Butt the sections up and do not overlap to get bumps.
You can just overlap say 1/2-3/4” at the keel. Easy to Fair this area out later.
You can then continue onto the sides of the hull.
Once this first skin is done and all is rolled out from air your day is done. If using peel ply on the last layer it will be real easy for the next days layer.
If not you have to wash off the Amoine blush. Rums to much today to waste so I now use vinegar.


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## Chris Morejohn (May 12, 2014)

Ok now you have a well bonded first hull skin for a big Skiff. You can use Biaxel cloths instead of what I have recommended. I don’t like Biaxel cloths as they take lots of resin, are very hard to use on curved surfaces as they are stitched together and have no weft and weave. Can move about very easily.
I also have repaired lots of hulls built with this material and you can literally tear them apart by hand between the layers. I hate the stuff. But go ahead and use if you are comfortable using it.
Now once the first layer is down, cured sand or grind all bumps off and make sure all is neat.
Start the next layer 1/1/2” forward of the first layer so all seams are now lapped by that much.
Because you are using Epoxy resin you can just now add 2 more layers of 18oz. Roving on top at the same time.
If using bixial do the same thing.
If you have an extra hand I would as the skin is just curing mix up some fairing and squeegee that in the weave to fair out. This all then bonds real well. When all is cured you now have a nice surface to start your fairing on.

Alternatives to this would be to add 5 layers of 10oz cloth in long sheets rolling and setting out each layer at a time, adding the next layer right on top of the next before it cures.
Once the hull is skinned and faired you then remove and set up right.
ITS VERY IMPORTANT TO BLOCK THE HULL UP PROPERLY NOW!!!!
The hull with just the one outside skin will be very weak wobbly even in core.
Make sure the keel is support well as are the hull sides or your hull could drupe and get wider.
For the inside of this hull I would suggest building the rest of the boat in polyester resin for it costs way less, is quicker to use and you can layup using 1-1/2 oz matt in most areas.
For the inside skin I would use one layer 1-1/2oz. Matt, 2 layers 18oz. Roving all at the same time in sections as described before.
Then the rest of the boat can be built as you want. To save $ core such as Nida core can be used in lots of places.


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## Chris Morejohn (May 12, 2014)

Now if using POLYESTER RESIN, 
You don’t have to worry so much about secondary bonding as you do with epoxy resin.
The rules with polyester, vynelester resin is that you have around 48 before you need to think about the next layer. What you do is if you start up on it the next weekend is you just need to rub the skin with a scotch brite pad to agitate the glass area. Also keep the skin clean from dust and moisture.
I like epoxy resin because there is no smell, you have more time to layup with it, it bonds very well to itself and to cores.
I like polyester resin because it cures quickly and I can really move along with it. It bonds very well to isteslf and to cores. It’s still very reasonable in cost. I have skiffs that I have built in it over 30 years ago still going strong. But it has styrene so it smells. 

I can be reached for questions for my designs at all times as I sail by using the Garimin link shown. You have to use 160 character texts to talk to me. I have it on all the time.
Picture shown are a few days old of a small Tazard fish as the French Here call a Wahoo. Caught it on a handline. 
The Micro Skiff on our deck is a 110 lb design, build of mine from close to 30 years old. The rash shows it’s constant use.
Keep up the great builds, take care


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## Troy_time (Jan 15, 2019)

Small update 

Spend some time sanding to get it as best I can 

Started to fill in gaps and screw holes

Was first time mixing up resin and fairing mix
Definitely is something to learn 

How much resin do you normally mix up for a batch for fairing mixture









So that will be this weeks job


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## Troy_time (Jan 15, 2019)

Have worked out a good mix

So resin is 3:1

Every lot on the measuring cup
I add 2 cups q cels and 2/3 silica 
So if I do the second measurement on the I do 4 cups q cell 1 1/3 silica 

Add it all in a ice cream container with a lid and shake it


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## Troy_time (Jan 15, 2019)

All my fibreglass has arrived


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## Flatbroke426 (May 5, 2018)

Troy_time said:


> View attachment 69778
> All my fibreglass has arrived


YAY Goodies! lol


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

I like it already! Give @Boatbrains a run for his money!


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## Troy_time (Jan 15, 2019)

flyclimber said:


> I like it already! Give @Boatbrains a run for his money!


Ha I’m sure he will be well onto his 2nd and 3rd run before I’m finished

I need my next lot of resin to turn up so I can glass it
But plenty of work sanding and cutting the glass yet


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## Guest (Apr 16, 2019)

Lookin good brother!


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## Troy_time (Jan 15, 2019)

Gaps all filled

Start Sanding tomorrow


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## Troy_time (Jan 15, 2019)

What’s everyone thoughts on adding a 2” lip around the top

Will give me a little more to bond the deck onto, help with something to brace from side it side and will allow me to paint before I flip over 
As I feel trying to turn this bad boy over to paint once I’ve done stringers, floor and bulk heads is going to get heavy


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## Troy_time (Jan 15, 2019)

Sanding is getting there
A few spots to fill up and a few screw holes and then ready for some glass next weekend


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## Troy_time (Jan 15, 2019)

Little more sanding done 

Changed the transom angle too 12 degrees 
Cut out the first thermolite board for the transom with help from my daughter 

Forgot how itchy it is to cut, normally baby powder up but wasn’t thinking 

Motor will be 25” leg 
Transom height is 34.5” (865mm)

*What splash well width should I be cutting out for the engine ? *

Want to cut it out before gluing in


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## Guest (Apr 25, 2019)

Lookin good!


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## Troy_time (Jan 15, 2019)

Transom double all cut and sanded 

Ready to glue together


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

that's a really tall transom.


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## Troy_time (Jan 15, 2019)

devrep said:


> that's a really tall transom.


It’s only 5 inches of extra free board 
Wanted the extra safety for when it gets rough

Have taken many waves over the transom and bow in my scout


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## Troy_time (Jan 15, 2019)

So been doing some research on paint 

Been quoted the same price for 
Alwcraft 2000 and Alexseal 501 
Imron ms600 isn’t available in Australia 
International is about the same price point also 

I plan to roll and tip at this stage for ease of the place I’m painting in 

What have people used and found easy to get great results?


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

any progress photos?


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## Troy_time (Jan 15, 2019)

devrep said:


> any progress photos?


No updates really, winter has come early here, so only seeing tops of 20 degrees 

There is a few area I’m not to happy with so just trying to fair the hull some more before glassing


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## Troy_time (Jan 15, 2019)

Getting ready for first the couple of layers for tomorrow


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## Troy_time (Jan 15, 2019)

So 5 hours later 
32 litres of resin 
2 layers are completed


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## Chris Morejohn (May 12, 2014)

Troy_time said:


> So 5 hours later
> 32 litres of resin
> 2 layers are completed
> 
> ...


Nice, well done Troy.


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## JMcGee (Sep 10, 2019)

Great read. Thinking about my first build. This has been extremely helpful.


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## JMcGee (Sep 10, 2019)

Question about the transom. Do you plan on reinforcing the transom with something else besides the composite material? 

I’ve been working on a design similar to your boat and question myself on how to build the transom.


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## Troy_time (Jan 15, 2019)

JMcGee said:


> Question about the transom. Do you plan on reinforcing the transom with something else besides the composite material?
> 
> I’ve been working on a design similar to your boat and question myself on how to build the transom.


It will have 3 layers of 18 oz woven on both sides 

So that’s the 19mm thermolite doubled up to make 38mm plus the 6 lays in total 
Should make it about 45-48mm think


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## Fritz (Jan 17, 2017)

I was just thinking about this build, we might be ready for another round of pictures. Hint......


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## Troy_time (Jan 15, 2019)

Finally got some time again to spend on the boat, winter is nearly over so starting to get some warmer days 

Started to get excited to get it moving again


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## Troy_time (Jan 15, 2019)

Got the last layers of glass on the hull
And started on the transom but ran out of epoxy 

Will start fairing this week

Would love for everyone to share some tips 

I got a pre mix fairing compound


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

Troy_time said:


> Got the last layers of glass on the hull
> And started on the transom but ran out of epoxy
> 
> Will start fairing this week
> ...


I like to use a small V notched spreader first to attain an even thickness, doing a small area at a time, than immediately going back over with a flat spreader to knock down the ridges. For me it goes very fast, and I use less filler, requiring less sanding. West System sells the notched spreaders.


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## Troy_time (Jan 15, 2019)

seapro17sv said:


> I like to use a small V notched spreader first to attain an even thickness, doing a small area at a time, than immediately going back over with a flat spreader to knock down the ridges. For me it goes very fast, and I use less filler, requiring less sanding. West System sells the notched spreaders.


That’s a great idea

Picked up a v notch this morning


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## Tautog166 (Jul 7, 2018)

That’s looking great!


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## Troy_time (Jan 15, 2019)

Done icing the cake , now to sand


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## GaG8tor (Jul 8, 2019)

How’s this thing coming along?


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## Troy_time (Jan 15, 2019)

GaG8tor said:


> How’s this thing coming along?


Very slow
Things have turned a little in life
Going through separation atm
So living where the boat isn’t atm

but she’s faired to about 70%
She’s been flipped over
And have the first front half of the inside fibreglassed 

she’s a bloody big boat


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## GaG8tor (Jul 8, 2019)

Sorry to hear that. You’ll get her done.


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## Troy_time (Jan 15, 2019)

One step forward
Give me a week or so to get set up again and back into it


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## GaG8tor (Jul 8, 2019)

Good to see ya back at it


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## Mike Haydon (Dec 19, 2019)

Man that thing is big. I didnt realize just how big until you posted that last pic. Hooe life is going better for you now and you can get this thing finished to enjoy!


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## Troy_time (Jan 15, 2019)

Mike Haydon said:


> Man that thing is big. I didnt realize just how big until you posted that last pic. Hooe life is going better for you now and you can get this thing finished to enjoy!


ha everyone has said that once it’s out of the shed 
She’s 6.2 m( 21 ft nearly ) long 
And 2.4 ( 8 ft ) wide 

going to be deck space for days


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## Mike Haydon (Dec 19, 2019)

No doubt. Building a skiff barge. Lol. Sounds like you know what you need for over there though and I cant wait to see you launch it.


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

I wonder what ever happened to this build, that skiff was huge on the trailer!


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## Tarpon2023 (8 mo ago)

Wow great to see downunder getting in on this.


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