# Freshening up my 14' Sears Gamefisher



## Brett

Welcome aboard Gilla

Another rebuild, I'm gonna enjoy watchin' you fix this one up.
Looks absolutely stock. Post pics, ask questions, we're happy to help.


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## Justin_K

Brett thanks for the warm welcome.

Yes this boat is completly except for a couple extra screw holes here and there over the years. It does look like someone already replaced the transom, at least to me. This all coming from someone who has never worked with fiberglass or painted anything other than small piece of metal. ;D

I was over tonight and looking at the seats and was able to just pull them out to get a look under them and saw the styrofoam under the rear seat. Here is a couple pics, I will most likely leave the front green piece in when ever I do paint or put the floor in though.


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## Justin_K

Well I picked up a 2001 Suzuki 25hp four stroke the other day.  It was not idling so I ran a gallon of fresh high test with some additive for cleaning the fuel systems of small engines made by BG products and it has started idling alot better and at times on its own without the choke pulled out at all.  Also the engine was painted camoflage.  With some Gum Cutter and a polishing pad installed in a air drill it has been coming off well but still have some left to take of but I have all winter for that.










I pulled the boat up to work ( I work at a small car dealership in service) so I could work on the boat today.  Made a good bit up progress on cleaning up the inside of the hull and bottom of the seats of all the old adhesive that held them together.



















I also noticed that there is some cracking in the very bottom section of the hull in the corners of the fiberglass that are going to need to be repaired before I put it in the water, I'm not sure if they will leak but just want to make certain the boat will float without having to bail water.   ;D  I am open to any repair techniques or advise for this.










I hung the motor this morning just to make sure the front of the trailer would not come off the ground with 160 pounds hanging off the transom, and it did not but the tongue weight is fairly low.  The one thing I noticed this evening was that the bottom mounting section of the engine is not touching the transom.     So just to get the boat in the water and run it to make sure everything is working before winter comes and I can plan my project properly I was thinking of putting a 2x6 behind this area and maybe thru bolting it for a trip or two.




























I need some advise on the transom though from you experts please.  Looking at the bottom outside of the transom it looks like I should cut out the old transom and make a new one that is flat from the bottom of the boat up to the top of the transom so I can bolt the engine in place without having some type of block in there in the open space.

I am also trying to decide on if I want to install a full floor in this boat or just fix the inside bottom fiberglass and then just reinstall the seats for now.  I am a little worried that If I dont glass in a full width floor and rebuild a new transom that with the weight of the Four stroke engine I am asking for problems.

Let me know what you all think.

Thanks

Justin


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## mark_gardner

i definitely agree that at the least you should put a block in there to fill the gap and most definitely bolt the motor on, it should handle the weight of the motor as i has a similar motor on my mud minnow and had no problems with it handling the weight, good luck and post some pics as you move along thru the rebuild


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## Brett

> I also noticed that there is some cracking in the very bottom section of the hull in the corners of the fiberglass that are going to need to be repaired before I put it in the water, I'm not sure if they will leak but just want to make certain the boat will float without having to bail


Hand sand the crack and 3 inches each side of the crack.
Vacuum out the dust and use compressed air to clean out the crack.
Wear a filter mask, fiberglass is nasty stuff.
Mix a 3 ounce batch of FLAG epoxy and hardener,
with milled glass fiber to the thickness of creamy peanut butter.
Using a glove protected fingertip push the epoxy mix
into the crack, along the entire length of the crack.
Keep the application smooth, you won't enjoy sanding it when it hardens.
After filling the crack and smoothing out the repair,
and the epoxy starts to gel, a water wet finger tip can smooth out
any minor imperfections and bumps in the work.
After the filler hardens completely, light sanding to scuff the epoxy,
clean up, and lay a strip of 6 inch wide biaxial fiberglass centered along the length of the crack,
mix low viscosity epoxy and hardener, wet out the cloth.
Work out the air bubbles, let harden overnight.


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## Justin_K

Thanks for the instructions Brett. 

With alot of bare fiberglass exposed on the inside of the boat do you think that I should apply a coat of Resin all over the floor and sides before I paint it or will a Rustolium type paint adhere fine without the resin?


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## Brett

You could gloss coat the interior with a thin layer of epoxy.
It would seal the exposed fibers and give you a good surface to paint over.
Use a foam gloss finish roller to apply a low viscosity no-blush resin.
It applies just like varnish. Wait a week before finish painting.


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## beyondhelp

Looks kinda familiar... I need to get going on mine. 










http://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1241373131


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## beyondhelp

> Thanks for the instructions Brett.
> 
> With alot of bare fiberglass exposed on the inside of the boat do you think that I should apply a coat of Resin all over the floor and sides before I paint it or will a Rustolium type paint adhere fine without the resin?



Mine has been painted with Rustoleum, house paint, car paint, umm.... some other junk I can't identify. 

I'd hate to see another boat end up looking like mine did/does...











I'd take Bretts advice and see if you can put a layer of epoxy down. The non skid area will be a little tougher. I suffered through a ton of sanding etc... The Rustoleum worked fine but it's pretty slippery. Then when it stops being slippery, Mold takes over. I think I'm going to roll on gelcoat once my mods are done.


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## Peter2006

Your motor looks like a 20 inch shaft lenght.
You will nee to build your transom up to 20 inches high and make it approx 2 1/2 inches thick with that heavy 4 stroke.
That's going to be a nice build.


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## beyondhelp

Mine flexed like a wet noodle in several ways with the benches cut out. The bottom of the hull where it curves up to the bow would bow and flex even with the benches in. Beyond that it would rack if you pulled down on one corner and the whole thing would change shape. I'd hate to see you create damage in your haste to run it. I know I've been chomping at the bit to get mine back in the water so I can't blame you.


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## Justin_K

PDLYNCH,

The Suzuki I picked up is actually a short shaft, I kinda wish it was a long shaft so I could get the 5" more of freeboard on the top of the transom to compensate for the weight of the four stroke. I am thinking like you on the thickness of the transom, I just need to figure what materials I can use to get the thickness and strenght but not add a ton more of weight back there ontop of the engine.

Beyond,

Hell yes I am chomping at the bit. ;D I am still not sure if I want to fix the concern area in the bottom fiberglass and then epoxy the entire inside and then put the seats back in and run it that way or if I want to put any type of floor in it. 

Hey Brett do you think that I will only need one gallon of the epoxy resin to put down one coat on the entire inside of the boat or will I need more.

Thanks for the replies and suggestions guys.


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## Brett

Low viscosity epoxy goes on like varnish.
I think a quart of epoxy with a pint of slow hardener will be more than enough. 2 to 1 mix.
I'd use MAS no-blush epoxy. Apply with a gloss finish foam roller.

like this...

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/FinishingTheGrassSlipper#5266706800333552034


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## Justin_K

Thanks Brett

So it sounds like for the entire project of fixing the exposed fiberglass fibers in areas that are all over the inside and outside of the boat I should plan on getting a half gallon. Also will I be able to use this low viscosity epoxy on the bottom inside and outside of the hull to lay down the fiberglass where needed and also to glass in the new transom?

Sorry for all the questions about this stuff but I just want to make sure I am prepared before I tear into this. 

Also do you have any suggestions for the type of wood I should use when I build the new transom.

Thanks again


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## Brett

I used MAS low viscosity no-blush epoxy to prime and fiberglass the entire hull inside and out, during the
construction of the Slipper. It's waterproof, tough, and easy to use. With a little practice anyone can get
great results. I'd think that the quart of epoxy and pint of hardener would seal your entire hull.
Layup of fiberglass will require more. The quantity of epoxy needed to wet out 1 square yard of fiberglass
is equal to the actual weight of 1 square yard of fiberglass, measured in ounces.
Marine plywood is the best, but if the cost is prohibitive, well, I used Home Depot 3/4 inch exterior
for the Slipper's transom. Sealed tight with epoxy.


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## Justin_K

Great this really helps me out Brett. Now I am thinking about just getting a Gallon of this epoxy and going ahead and putting the full floor and stringer system in there while I am replacing the transom. This way I dont have to worry about skimping in any areas that aren't seen if I am running low.

Plus there is a Free Mckee Craft 14' hull about two hours north of me that I have been eyeing up for my next project, just not sure how much I want to have laying around at one time where I have free storage for this stuff. ;D


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## Justin_K

Ok Brett

I am looking at the 635 resin from this site http://www.shopmaninc.com/epoxy.html    Which fiberglass would you recommend me using when I put the new transom in and also to repair the bottom of the hull.  http://www.shopmaninc.com/epoxy.html

Thanks again


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## Brett

That 635 epoxy looks good to me, and as the temps are dropping
you'll probably need the medium hardener for temps below 80° F.
That 10 oz E-glass ought to be strong enough for what you're doing.
I'm partial to multiple layers of 6 oz to work in tight corners.


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## Justin_K

Ok well I have done nothing in the last 2 1/2 months on the boat. Just been waiting on a little cash and motivation. Well I finally ordered the fiberglass and epoxy resin for this project this morning. 

My brother got out to look at the boat earlier this week so he is now itching to get going on this project. I am planning on getting it up to work tomorrow afternoon and then he is coming by sometime Saturday. We are going to cut out the old transom and probably put two pieces of 3/4" exterior plywood to make the new transom. We plan on using liquid nails to hold them together along with some screws and attach secure it to the boat with 3M's 5200 and let it cure. 

Then get to laying the resin and fiberglass hopefully the following weekend, schedules permitting.

I am also going to run the Suzuki for the first time since I installed the new impellar and hopefully it will idle again like I had it back in October so I dont have to overhaul the carbs.


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## Justin_K

Well my brother came to work this morning and after a bit had the back of the boat looking like this.   











Here is a picture of him drawing the outline on the cardboard.










My dad showed up to help out this afternoon also.  Here is the two pieces of 3/4" pressure treated boards and it looks like we will use a 1/2" board on the outside to help match up the back corners flush with the transom.  It is turning out to be a little more work than what we thought.  Mostly because of the two sections on the top sides in the first picture that point towards the middle/topside of the transom, if they were not there it would be quicker. Just need to cut out the topside of the transom once we get the 1/2" board on the back also.










Hopefully this will be coming together nicely here in the next couple of weeks.  I will keep you all posted.


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## Justin_K

We got the transom placed in the boat last Saturday afternoon.  We used the 3M's 5200 between the wood and fiberglass of the boat.  I was reading the 5200 label this afternoon and noticed that it says after it is cured in 7 days that it is still flexible.  Do you think this will be a problem even with having a healthy amount of 8oz E glass with epoxy resin holding the transom in there?  Here is some pictures.




























The other question that I have is should or will we need to grind or sand off 5200 off the wood before we start to put on the resin or glass?

Thanks again


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## natez

Im not sure if you have to sand or not but i would just to get it smooth.You might wana try and put a fillet /radius in those corners.Build em up to a 1/2" radius ,it will help the glass tape lay flat and eliminate air pockets.Some air bubbles are gonna happen ,but if you dont ,the glass will have a void between the two bonded areas.Did you apply resin or your sealant to the transom edges before installing 
it in your boat? I would heavy coat all the edges of your ply and double tape transom to floor and transom to sides Overlaping each layer a couple of inches.Looks good ,you will get it done.Not a pro by any means Just my 2 cents,from building my first boat.Good luck


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## Justin_K

Well I have got the bottom inside and outside of the transom glassed in with two nice layers after taking the sander to the corners and putting a nice radius on them. That really helped keep the air pockets out, thanks for that advise. I got two layers of glass on the inside and outside side corners also and that transom in nice and solid not. Cut the hole for the brass plug fitting and put a couple layers of epoxy and two layers of glass on that and put it in the transom, let it dry overnight in the shop and put 5200 inside the hole to completely seal it up.

I flipped the boat upside down on the trailer and just need to sand down the keel since it has been repaired before, someone put a long layer of glass there previously and there is a couple of small cracks on the keel. Once I get the keel sanded I will put another layer of glass on it and then be ready for a water test.

The one thing that I want to do before I mount the engine is to paint the bottom. Instead of using paint I would like to find something that I can mix into the epoxy resin to get it to be a bright white and put one good layer of colored resin onto the bottom. Any suggestions for this?

Thanks


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## modefan101

Well I am taking a chance here but what the heck. Gill or anyone else, would anyone happen to have a close up or know the info that is on the hull for the boat information such as the weight and max HP? I picked up a 86 per the title 14' but the plate was removed and painted over. my email is [email protected]


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## Justin_K

I just looked at the plate from my boat. It states that the max HP is 25. Max pounds of people 600# and total weight is 800#'s.

Hope this helps.


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## Brett

the capacity plate from another 80's Sears 14 foot gamefisher trihull.


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## beyondhelp

I'm going to pretend i never saw that...


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