# Slow leak - 1998 Maverick Mirage 2



## Cullen904 (Jul 26, 2016)

Curious if anyone has encountered any issues with taking on water slowly on an older Maverick Mirage hull? I've gone through and re-5200 all below waterline holes. There is a thru-hull to the livewell that I've worked at sealing well too, but still having water come out post ride or fishing.

Was hoping maybe someone has experienced or heard of similar issues to help me further troubleshoot the intrusion of water.


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## fjmaverick (Sep 18, 2015)

On that hull is there any seal or gap between the hull and the deck that could be leaking? 
Check the lip under the rub rail.
What about hose clamps? Try tightening those lately?

Boat is mid/late 90s?


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## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

The next place to look is up underneath the rubrail -the last three or four feet from the transom... Some of the older Mavericks only had the cap and hull bolted together with no caulking to make the joint sealed...
In calm waters never a problem but in a choppy seaway water would get forced up into the seam (another of those “ask me how I know” moments...). I have a 1988 Maverick and had to fix that particular problem myself.
If this turns out to be your problem, call me and I’ll talk you through a fix...


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## FlyBy (Jul 12, 2013)

This^^^^


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## Cullen904 (Jul 26, 2016)

lemaymiami said:


> The next place to look is up underneath the rubrail -the last three or four feet from the transom... Some of the older Mavericks only had the cap and hull bolted together with no caulking to make the joint sealed...
> In calm waters never a problem but in a choppy seaway water would get forced up into the seam (another of those “ask me how I know” moments...). I have a 1988 Maverick and had to fix that particular problem myself.
> If this turns out to be your problem, call me and I’ll talk you through a fix...


I believe this may still be my issue. The more I've dug into this, the more I hear about the cap / hull gap problem. A few month's back, I pulled my rub rail and caulked 5200 in the gap, but not sure it sealed all the way. I'd be interested to hear your fix or solution as I don't think it could hurt to go back through that! 

I just spoke to a skiff repair guy and he mentioned to use methyl methacrylate (MMA). Not sure if I can just fill the gap or if I need to lift the cap and re-adhere.

Feel free to give me a call or text sometime - (404) 956-2899 - Cullen

Thanks guys!!!


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

lemaymiami said:


> The next place to look is up underneath the rubrail -the last three or four feet from the transom... Some of the older Mavericks only had the cap and hull bolted together with no caulking to make the joint sealed...
> In calm waters never a problem but in a choppy seaway water would get forced up into the seam (another of those “ask me how I know” moments...). I have a 1988 Maverick and had to fix that particular problem myself.
> If this turns out to be your problem, call me and I’ll talk you through a fix...


My spear glades x had the same issues n I fixed it....


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Mavericks are notorious for the gaps behind rubrail and around the top of the transom.


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## EvanHammer (Aug 14, 2015)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> My spear glades x had the same issues n I fixed it....


How did you fix it?


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

EvanHammer said:


> How did you fix it?


White marine tec epoxy putty forced into leak/void/gap...other voids I used polyester resin in a hyperdermic syringe. Voids in deck core area's drilled holes n filled with resin..


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## Cullen904 (Jul 26, 2016)

The gaps and void areas I'm seeing are fairly large. My predicted fix at this point will be pull the rub rail and unscrew the cap / hull screws. Fill the gap / void areas with Methyl Methacrylate Adhesive. Fill each of the screw holes with marine tex or MMA and re-insert screws with 5200.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

While we are on the subject of maverick, how did they attach the stringers to the hull? Glassed in or just putty? Reason I asked is I started to buy one a few different times thru the years but I read stories of failure/stringers. Just curious?


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## fjmaverick (Sep 18, 2015)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> While we are on the subject of maverick, how did they attach the stringers to the hull? Glassed in or just putty? Reason I asked is I started to buy one a few different times thru the years but I read stories of failure/stringers. Just curious?


I have heard stories of a few earlier mirages that had stringer problems. I havnt heard anything like that on the later hpx models.


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## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

Here's the thread, back in July , where we discussed this problem... My small contribution is near the very end.... Hope this helps
https://www.microskiff.com/threads/sealing-cap-to-hull.54028/

"Backer rod" comes in 25' lengths and in various diameters, 1/4, 3/8, etc and is soft closed cell foam that compresses quite a bit in tight spaces. For a caulking tool I used an old 3" brick chisel and a piece of 1/8" thick board with a rubber hammer to tamp it into place. Add the backer rod while the first run of 5200 is still soft and it will actually aid in pushing the 5200 into place where you want it.

For those that consider a complete cap off job... Here's what you're facing... the deck cap is secured to the hull with machine screws spaced about 10" inches apart and through bolted to small lock nuts (at least on my old Maverick...). Before you can do anything with the cap you have to remove the entire rubrail (screwed into the cap every 8" or so... One of the shortcomings of most Maverick skiffs is that you can't remove the fuel tank without removing the deck cap (another or those "ask me how I know" deals). It was so onerous that I swore I'd never do that twice..... The caulking routine I've described above will seal the joint properly -it's already strong enough with the machine screws so strength isn't an issue - just the water intrusion when you're running in a chop...


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## Stevie (Jun 27, 2017)

Maverick used a lot of putty in 1993....

I’m going to add this 20+ pound putty-berg from a 93 Mirage to our sculpture collection. What was originally a repainting project took this turn precisely because of water intrusion at the deck cap/ hull connection.


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## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

Every now and then I consider a complete teardown and re-build for my 1988 Maverick XL (possibly the only model they ever built without an inner liner..) Then I think about all the other "small projects" I've been involved in over the years and think better of it... 

That "berg" you're showing looks like it might be foam instead of putty... but if you've handled it - it's probably not foam...


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## Cullen904 (Jul 26, 2016)

Stevie said:


> View attachment 53526
> View attachment 53528
> View attachment 53530
> View attachment 53526
> ...


Oh boy! Thank you Stevie and Bob and everyone that has chimed in. I've learned a lot and have some ideas on how I'm going to attack it next week. I'll keep you guys posted on the outcome. Bob, the backer rod may be the assurance I'm looking for!


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## chesfisherman1 (Jan 19, 2014)

Very informative thread!
I have just spent the past 2 weeks investigating "leaks" and "cracks" on an 2010 IPB 16.
The "leak" area that surprised me the most was a basic one...transom thru hull fittings/screws.
I removed all screws and thru hull fittings that were below the waterline.
TWO of the screw/hole were obvious leak sources (old transducer mount hole-bottom right/mount bracket for aerator intake).
My aerator intake thru hull transom fitting was NOT "glassed in. 
There was little evidence an A+ professional thru hull below the waterline install.
Bottomline-check all thru hull fittings not installed by you.


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