# What would you add or remove from your skiff?



## shallowfish1 (Feb 25, 2011)

Lot of ground covered in your post so I'll just address two items I know something about: 

You say that a StickIt anchor will be cumbersome, but that has not been my experience. I use mine quite a bit and it's easy to deploy, takes up little deck space and is very lightweight. I use it to stake off after hooking up in open water or to set up in a good spot and spray a bunch of casts. Also works great to stick the skiff on calm days along the beach. Several of my friends have powerpoles on their boats. They're a fine piece of engineering but they take up space, invariably have mechanical issues, and clutter up a skiff (in my humble opinion).

As for a trolling motor, some purists in here will tell you that you should not use one but in reality they're very useful for the solo wrangler. I agree with your logic that a manual version is the best bet given your goals. I'm intrigued by some of the features on the autopilot versions but in very shallow water with rocks and heavy grass and whatnot it makes more sense to be able to raise and lower the motor quickly and place it in deeper pockets with precision. Also, I often detach mine, tilt the prop at an angle to the surface, rock the boat back and forth to break the seal on the hull and motor across skinny sections that would otherwise require getting out and pushing. Can't do that with an autopilot. 

Best of luck with rigging your skiff.


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## Atomic (May 26, 2017)

You sound like you have everything pretty well thought out. I agree that a trolling motor is a huge relief, what a difference using one versus not having it. You say you don't want any storage, where do you plan on keeping your safety equipment?


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Run faster, draft less.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Post pics! Or have you not started the build yet? 

Also, I really appreciate having rod "storage," as in rod tubes and holders under the gunnels... you can prob squeeze at least 2 per side to hold 9' fly rods


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## AfterHours2 (Aug 2, 2010)

I had a Gladesmen that originally came with a poling and casting platform. I opted to remove the poling platform and either poled or used a SUP paddle from the bow casting platform. I would rather have full range of my tiller motor and with a poling platform on a narrow transom, that's not going to happen. Basic clamp on rod holder for the casting platform off to the side, doubles as a push pole holder while you cast. I put down sea deck so the push pole would be silent when I stored to cast. I always had a stick it anchor in the under gunnel rod holders to tie off to a flush cleat(bow and stern) to anchor. Never had a trolling motor, as these style skiffs can easily be paddled or poled. Hope this helps..


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## EastTNoutdoorsman (Feb 29, 2016)

I only have a very minor thing to add...If you're right handed you may want to mount the trolling motor on the starboard side if the bow. I found that while it's a minor inconvenience reaching over to steer with my left hand it's greatly reduced the amount of tangles I have to deal with. Just my personal preference. Sounds like you've thought about it a ton, so you have have thought about already. While plugging a few holes to switch the mount over is a piece of cake after the build you're doing, if you'll mount battery centrally it might a difference where you run your wiring. 

And I agree with yobata...We want pictures!


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## SWFLrunner (Mar 27, 2017)

I have a fairly simple setup

No cleats on my boat at all. I tie off to the platform on the rear, bow eye on the front. Use carabiners on the ends of the ropes for quickening things up if it matters. Granted I don't anchor often, I do have a front hatch for anchor storage and use the bow eye for the rare times I anchor.

I use my stick anchor alot flats drifting and a SUP paddle to get around. Stick anchor mount by Anytide attached to the platform. One rod holder on the platform comes in handy, I have two but one is enough, need to add one to the grab bar. I stow rods in the tubes when moving around.

Simple electrics, 4 gang switch, bilge pump, fish finder, battery switch, and breaker, electric start outboard. I have an optima blue top which is way more battery than I need without a TM and heavy. I need to downsize it. I will probably add a USB charger port. No need for lights currently.


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## Gatorgrizz27 (Apr 4, 2015)

Thanks for the feedback so far, I'm sure we have all been on boats where we wish something was laid out differently, luckily building from scratch allows me to get exactly what I want as long as I think it through.



Atomic said:


> You sound like you have everything pretty well thought out. I agree that a trolling motor is a huge relief, what a difference using one versus not having it. You say you don't want any storage, where do you plan on keeping your safety equipment?


I plan to use a storage tote like this one under the open rear deck, I'll add some elastic loops for sunscreen, bug spray, pliers, etc, to the outside, as well as a small dry box for my keys and cell phone.

https://www.amazon.com/Plano-1719-00-68-Quart-Tote/dp/B00CW8N1AO

The goal will be to not have to open the box under ordinary situations, keeping everything dry and away from the salt. An extra one can be added with camping gear when needed. In my experience, hatches are just a place for things to go and rust or mildew away, unless you take everything out of the boat, wash it, and lay it out to dry after every trip.



yobata said:


> Post pics! Or have you not started the build yet?
> 
> Also, I really appreciate having rod "storage," as in rod tubes and holders under the gunnels... you can prob squeeze at least 2 per side to hold 9' fly rods


I will start a build thread when I make some more progress, right now I only have the frames built and stacked up in my shop. Unfortunately it's not large enough to build the boat along with the stuff I do for my business. I've got a couple sets of built-ins and a vanity to knock out, then I can set up the jig and hopefully get most of the boat completed while we are working on trim jobs, pergolas, etc at customer's houses.

I plan on 4 under-gunnel slots for fly rods, hopefully that will be sufficient. The right side facing forward and the left side facing back seems ideal for both a guys fishing on the bow and stern simulateouly, as well as switching off between one on the bow fishing and one poling.



AfterHours2 said:


> I had a Gladesmen that originally came with a poling and casting platform. I opted to remove the poling platform and either poled or used a SUP paddle from the bow casting platform. I would rather have full range of my tiller motor and with a poling platform on a narrow transom, that's not going to happen. Basic clamp on rod holder for the casting platform off to the side, doubles as a push pole holder while you cast. I put down sea deck so the push pole would be silent when I stored to cast. I always had a stick it anchor in the under gunnel rod holders to tie off to a flush cleat(bow and stern) to anchor. Never had a trolling motor, as these style skiffs can easily be paddled or poled. Hope this helps..


I may have to get creative with the poling platform, or not build one until I determine it is needed. The top of the transom will be 40" wide, and the boat widens significantly where the forward legs will mount. I haven't picked up an outboard yet to see if it will be able to clear the platform or not. I could always just pole from my cooler, but I had planned to put it on the bow when fishing solo from the back in order to balance things out. I know I could pole the boat backwards from the bow also, standing on the cooler.



EastTNoutdoorsman said:


> I only have a very minor thing to add...If you're right handed you may want to mount the trolling motor on the starboard side if the bow. I found that while it's a minor inconvenience reaching over to steer with my left hand it's greatly reduced the amount of tangles I have to deal with. Just my personal preference. Sounds like you've thought about it a ton, so you have have thought about already. While plugging a few holes to switch the mount over is a piece of cake after the build you're doing, if you'll mount battery centrally it might a difference where you run your wiring.
> 
> And I agree with yobata...We want pictures!


I'm not sure I'm following correctly. You have the trolling motor mounted on the right side of the bow, but then hold the fly rod in your right hand and reach across your body with your left hand to operate the motor? I can see that working if it is mounted right on the tip of the bow, but I think mine will have to be back and to the side slightly. I had considered mounting the motor on the right and just holding the fly rod in my left hand and switching to cast, but my rope activated "power pole" needs to be mounted on the same side as the trolling motor to avoid juggling 3 things between 2 hands. If I were to mount it on the right, it would be in the way when poling from the stern, as I typically pole on that side.

I'll try to explain how I visualize it working: fly rod in my right hand, ready to cast, operate trolling motor with my left hand. Left hand turns trolling motor off and grabs "power pole" rope from the left side of my belt to stake out if needed, then can grab the fly line to make a cast. If the wind is blowing or swinging me around, I can easily pause my casting and run the trolling motor to get things back under control, with my fly rod still in my right (casting) hand.

I understand it seems a bit complicated and unnecessary if you haven't fishing in tidal creeks with wind. In the 4-5 seconds between controlling the boat and picking up the rod to make a cast, you can be 20-30 feet past the fish, swung around 90-180 degrees, or pushed up against the grass or a bank where you don't have a clear area for your back cast. It's much different than drifting a flat.

It was storming down on the coast when I got up to fish this morning, so I slept in an hour went out on the river instead. With 5 mph winds and a 1 mph current, I could easily pole my jon boat with the fly rod resting on the bench at my feet, stop the boat, loop the pole into my belt, pick up the rod, and cast. It's a much different ball game normally though.

I'm hoping my elevated bow cap will keep the fly line from catching on the trolling motor, as well as the wind from blowing it off the deck. Unfortunately, I won't be able to use a stripping bucket on my left side with the motor also mounted on the left, at least while operating it. I could mount the motor on the right side, keep the "power pole" rope on the left, and have a stripping bucket on my left side with the fly rod standing up in it. Ugh. I may have to wait until I can actually stand on the front deck and strip and cast line to see how everything should work together.


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## EastTNoutdoorsman (Feb 29, 2016)

My motor is mounted to where I can stand inside the cockpit and still reach up to steer. That way I can more comfortably use it when covering more water while trolling along a river bank. As you can guess from my name I fish lakes and rivers more than salt, but I do out there several times a year.

The location of my trolling motor let's me face the right side of the boat and still strip line with my left hand piling it closer to the bow and still away from the trolling motor. Sure the boat would maneuver better with the motor closer to the bow but not dealing with tangled fly line is worth it for me. 

If I ever upgrade to an ipilot I'm sure it'll go by the nose, but I don't want a foot control and that damn tiller handle (like everything else) is a fly line magnet. So really it's the damn fly line's fault.

Also, I have found myself just keeping my rod in my right (casting) hand just to avoid another step in swapping hands when making minor corrections, but if steering around a point or docks I'll definitely switch hands.


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

Gatorgrizz27 said:


> Hi all, I apologize in advance for the lengthy post, but I'm trying to cover all the bases and include pertinent information. I've been building a new plywood/epoxy skiff, it is similar in concept (not necessarily performance or build quality) to a HB Glades Skiff or ECC Gladesmen, at 17' long, 48" max bottom width tapering to 36" at the transom, powered by a 25 (still unsure whether 2 or 4 stroke).
> 
> I primarily fly fish alone in tidal creeks, and have been working on a setup that will be as efficient and simple as possible while having tools that make fishing more enjoyable. I would appreciate any feedback as to what you all have found ideal in terms of boat setup/convenience/stuff being in the way.
> 
> ...


I've posted pics of my Bateau FS18 on the sight, so you may have seen it. It sounds similar to the skiff you're building, mine being 18'6" long and 55" at the widest point of the beam. I'm very happy with the decision to have a completely clutter free cockpit without console or grab bar. I designed the poling platform to allow full swing of the tiller, fully tilt the motor, and be low enough at 27" to be comfortable to sit on and drive, and also for ease of climbing up and down. Since the boat is self bailing at rest, all 3 hatches drain into the cockpit and drain out the transom allowing for 3 water tight storage areas and no wet bilge. I decided against a trolling motor because I like to pole, and where I fish 90% of the time it's 16" or less in depth, plus I have another boat with a trolling motor. I have mine set up for 4 spinners and 2 fly rods under the gunwales, with the fly rods both facing aft between the spinners into rod tubes, and the 7'6" rods without being into rod tubes. I also made sure the reels would hang in the holders without touching the cockpit sole. Electronics are minimal; a 4 switch Blue Seas waterproof panel, USB, cigarette lighter plug combo, fuel gauge, and running lights, all powered by a used group 24 wheel chair battery, probably under 20 lbs. that I've never had to charge after over a year of fishing, at least 75 trips. I have a bow eye for cranking the boat onto the trailer

















































, and a little stainless pad eye on the bow deck to tie off, and use the poling platform to tie off aft. Zero cleats, the only deck obstructions being the push pole holders. I spent a lot of time thinking threw the build, and after more than a year of hard use i can't think of anything I'd change. Hope this helps, good luck with your build. Mike


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

seapro17sv said:


> I've posted pics of my Bateau FS18 on the sight, so you may have seen it. It sounds similar to the skiff you're building, mine being 18'6" long and 55" at the widest point of the beam. I'm very happy with the decision to have a completely clutter free cockpit without console or grab bar. I designed the poling platform to allow full swing of the tiller, fully tilt the motor, and be low enough at 27" to be comfortable to sit on and drive, and also for ease of climbing up and down. Since the boat is self bailing at rest, all 3 hatches drain into the cockpit and drain out the transom allowing for 3 water tight storage areas and no wet bilge. I decided against a trolling motor because I like to pole, and where I fish 90% of the time it's 16" or less in depth, plus I have another boat with a trolling motor. I have mine set up for 4 spinners and 2 fly rods under the gunwales, with the fly rods both facing aft between the spinners into rod tubes, and the 7'6" rods without being into rod tubes. I also made sure the reels would hang in the holders without touching the cockpit sole. Electronics are minimal; a 4 switch Blue Seas waterproof panel, USB, cigarette lighter plug combo, fuel gauge, and running lights, all powered by a used group 24 wheel chair battery, probably under 20 lbs. that I've never had to charge after over a year of fishing, at least 75 trips. I have a bow eye for cranking the boat onto the trailer
> View attachment 11113
> View attachment 11116
> View attachment 11117
> ...


Man that is a beautiful build! Nice job!


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## Gatorgrizz27 (Apr 4, 2015)

Thanks Seapro, I have seen your builds, you do great work. I was planning to build an FS18 for awhile, but wanted something just slightly wider, and it didn't seem to be as versatile as I was wanting for the time and cost to build one. Jacques has just released the Laguna Madre though, which is a slightly wider FS18, and I will likely end up building in the future. My current project is a quick and cheap build to run for a few years and see how it works for my needs. I appreciate the info on your setup as well, it seems like I'm on the right track!

Do you mind telling me what the widest part of the bottom measures, as well as the bottom of the transom, if it is convenient to measure? I had asked on Bateau but Jacques has been on summer vacation for a few weeks. Just wanting to see how it compares to what I'm building, at 48" and 36-40".


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

Gatorgrizz27 said:


> Thanks Seapro, I have seen your builds, you do great work. I was planning to build an FS18 for awhile, but wanted something just slightly wider, and it didn't seem to be as versatile as I was wanting for the time and cost to build one. Jacques has just released the Laguna Madre though, which is a slightly wider FS18, and I will likely end up building in the future. My current project is a quick and cheap build to run for a few years and see how it works for my needs. I appreciate the info on your setup as well, it seems like I'm on the right track!
> 
> Do you mind telling me what the widest part of the bottom measures, as well as the bottom of the transom, if it is convenient to measure? I had asked on Bateau but Jacques has been on summer vacation for a few weeks. Just wanting to see how it compares to what I'm building, at 48" and 36-40".


The widest point on the bottom of the FS18 is 42.5" and the transom is 35". The new Laguna Madre is 10" wider from what I've been told, but I do not have the plans. I would love to build it some day though.


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## Gatorgrizz27 (Apr 4, 2015)

seapro17sv said:


> The widest point on the bottom of the FS18 is 42.5" and the transom is 35". The new Laguna Madre is 10" wider from what I've been told, but I do not have the plans. I would love to build it some day though.


Awesome, thank you!


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## blackmagic1 (Jul 3, 2014)

I would just put a little mushroom anchor up front with me


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## jmrodandgun (Sep 20, 2013)

Wouldn't mind having a mezzanine or maybe nice fighting chair.


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## fjmaverick (Sep 18, 2015)

IMG_4465




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fjmaverick


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Jun 5, 2017









blackmagic1 said:


> I would just put a little mushroom anchor up front with me


Love my stainless steel cajun anchor. I still carry the plunger but hardly use it. The cajun anchor fits in the under gunnel rod holders and deploys in seconds.


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## blackmagic1 (Jul 3, 2014)

fjmaverick said:


> Love my stainless steel cajun anchor. I still carry the plunger but hardly use it. The cajun anchor fits in the under gunnel rod holders and deploys in seconds.


I love my PowerPole and remote. If I'm planning on needing quick, quiet, deployment, I have it set to where it's just above the bottom. Just a tap and I'm stuck.


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## fjmaverick (Sep 18, 2015)

blackmagic1 said:


> I love my PowerPole and remote. If I'm planning on needing quick, quiet, deployment, I have it set to where it's just above the bottom. Just a tap and I'm stuck.


Different application. I throw that off the front, it buries itself in mud or sand and I tie it to the bow cleat.


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## richg99 (Nov 28, 2009)

I've never used this device, but...it seems to make a lot of sense to be able to use and store a stick type of anchor easily. It swivels from horizontal to vertical and stows the stick anchor at the same time. I have no idea of the cost, but..Google is your friend.
Swivel Stick... http://www.floridasportsman.com/2014/08/29/new-paddle-craft-gear-2014/

I am considering buying a micro for use on the Texas flats. I'll be looking more carefully into this device at that time, too. 
richg99


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## richg99 (Nov 28, 2009)

I Googled it up, now that you have me interested! Ha $200.00
http://www.swivelstick.net/product-p/swstan-001.htm


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

I built for the same uses and with a similar end goal. Here is what I have learned:

Unlike you, I planned on never needing a trolling motor. I am an idiot. Don't doubt yourself. Get the TM. I fish alone more often than not. I love poling, but I can't pole and fish effectively alone. At best, I can only controlled-drift with the wind and current. Even with another person in the bow to handle the actual fishing, poling across an 8' deep trough in a flat in high wind or fast tide is miserable. If you fish lakes or rivers in addition to the marsh, not have a TM drastically limits your ability to fish deep or fast water. I need a big hand steer TM with a BigFoot foot bracket for the bow. IPilot would be great, but I can't afford such niceties at this time.

I have a pin anchor and love it for water under 6'. My complaint is that I currently tie off to it the a rope, which is slow and clunky. I need a bracket that holds the pin vertically in the bracket using a tension band, ready to deploy. This is a very simple mechanism that avoids ropes (ropes are the devil; more on this below). Bending down to pick up an 8' long fiberglass anchor pin up off a non-skid deck is too slow, too loud and takes your eyes of the water. Pulling a rope to raise and lower a rear-mount pin is too Rube Goldberg-ian and still takes your eyes off whatever you were stopping the boat to cast at. Rope running through eyelets when you drop the pin is still loud.

Lay out your boat so you never have to lay anything on the deck. Store things in the most functional position allows you to store things quickly and quietly. Have a pole holder mounted to the platform and also have a push pole caddy on your hip when you pole from the bow. Avoid bending down to do anything. Have your rod stored so you can clip the push pole into a holder, depress the pin anchor and pick up your rod with out bending over, making too much noise or looking down.

Avoid anchor ropes on the deck. No matter how conscientious you think you are, you will always be standing on them if you need to deploy the anchor rapidly.

I'd use Hydro-turf instead of non-skid on the decks. Non-skid is too loud when you slide anything across it like a cooler, tackle box, push pole, anchor pin or stand-up paddle board paddle. I'd also place Hydro-turf under the entire length of the push pole as it sits in the holders. You will hit the boat ever time you take it in and out of the holder no matter how hard you try.

Find a good way to store your landing net out of the way. I fish for crappie when I get a chance, so a landing net is non-negotiable, but there is no good place to keep the dang thing so it is ready to use and not stuffed up under the bow. I need a vertical (or slightly angle out) rod holder at all four corners of the cockpit and would keep the landing net in the one that is least in the way.

Nate


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## Gatorgrizz27 (Apr 4, 2015)

Thanks for the reply Nate, I saw your build awhile ago and just read through it again tonight. This is the trolling motor I picked up, it looks like a batch of refurbished ones just showed up for around $200. The trapdoor design makes it easy to take the motor off, and with the bracket up there is nothing to snag on. With it down it can be used to stake out or as a mount for lights, etc. 

http://www.academy.com/webapp/wcs/s...51_520457_-1?gclid=CMi-6MCirtQCFY-3wAodZWIB3w

The bracket pictured at the bottom of this page is what I'm using to hold my stakeout pin, it's nice that I can put the trolling motor into it also. 

https://www.minnkotamotors.com/productType.aspx?id=1304

I agree the rope system is a little hokey, but it's the best option I've come up with so far and I think it should work smoothly. The rope will run under the gunnel and pop out behind the front casting deck where it is held by a sailing cam cleat. That should allow me to tuck the slack end of the line into my waistband and anchor without bending over or looking back. I can then drop the line down onto the floor or tuck it back in if I want to reposition easily. 


I saw your skiff has a 40" bottom width, if you were to do it again would it be the same or wider? I'm planning on a 48" max width at the bottom, tapering to 40" at the transom. I'm trying to get the most stability while minimizing transom drag. 

I'm also uncertain on the sheer height, I'm thinking about 16" on the sides and a few inches higher in the bow. The boat won't be self-bailing and its often choppy here so I'd rather have a little more safety margin.


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

This is what I will end up with:

http://shallowwatersolutions.com/troller_anchoring_arms

The TM mount and anchor pin are on the same bracket. The tension band will hold pin vertically, ready to be used until you need it, then you just push it down like a plunger.

I originally drew my hull with a 36" bottom and 6" of flare on either side resulting in a 48" width across the top of the middle station. I later decided that was excessively narrow based on comparable hulls, so I scaled the width of my line drawing up in Google Sketch to make the biggest boat possible with the minimum number of joints. I settled on a 40" bottom because that corresponded with a 48" width across the back of the widest deck. My front deck is 6' long. If I made it wider than 48", I couldn't cut it from a single sheet of ply. 

The stability at 40" is adequate and I wouldn't change it for my purposes. I wanted it narrow so a small motor could easily push it and it would pole well. One of these days I will hopefully find out if it does. I can fish reasonably comfortably by myself or with another person, but my dog makes the boat wobble too much because she insists on following me around as I fish, forcing me to dance around her to balance the boat. I can do it without falling in, but it is too loud. This hull works great for hunting in the marsh with the dog because she doesn't feel the need to follow me around.

My hull is 15" deep, which is pretty standard for a flat bottom hull that fills the same niche as a jonboat. I planned on a 15" transom, but once I cambered the decks, the transom ended up being 16.5" tall, which is a funky height. Even with a jackplate, I have to get a 20" shaft outboard because a 15" shaft mounts too low to tilt up. For fishing, I like the 15" shear, but if it was just a hunting boat, I'd drop the shear to 12" and camber the decks to 15" on midline to further reduce its profile. As is, I've never taken water over the bow when punching through big sportfisher wakes and I do not take this hull in to big water where real waves can stack up. What little spray that comes in doesn't make it to the cockpit because the deck camber pushes it back out.

Nate


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## shallowfish1 (Feb 25, 2011)

SeaPro, that skiff you built is a thing of beauty. I've really enjoyed different aspects of this forum but none more so that the creativity and ability of the folks who customize or (especially) build their own rides. I do not possess that sort of talent and I'm deeply impressed by it.


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## Padre (Jul 29, 2016)

I have never seen this on any skiff but I use them on my SUP's and if I ever have another skiff built, I am going to ask if the can do this. I would put those plugs that they put on SUP's to strap your cooler down, on the floor in front of the center console to fit by Yeti 35 and another set long ways to fit my Yeti 75 so that I could strap my cooler down. I would also have put another set in the bow. Since they are flush, there is nothing to catch a fly line on or stub your tow on.


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## Backcountry 16 (Mar 15, 2016)

My wife on some occasions.


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## Backcountry 16 (Mar 15, 2016)

Backcountry 16 said:


> My wife on some occasions.


Removal that is.


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## Gatorgrizz27 (Apr 4, 2015)

Backcountry 16 said:


> My wife on some occasions.





Backcountry 16 said:


> Removal that is.


Haha thanks for the laugh. Luckily, I'm self-employed, so I've pretty much resorted to the fact that my serious fishing days will be during the week or when she doesn't come. Weekend family trips will be a more laid back affair. My wife actually does like to fish, but she's over it after 3-4 hours.


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## Gatorgrizz27 (Apr 4, 2015)

Padre said:


> I have never seen this on any skiff but I use them on my SUP's and if I ever have another skiff built, I am going to ask if the can do this. I would put those plugs that they put on SUP's to strap your cooler down, on the floor in front of the center console to fit by Yeti 35 and another set long ways to fit my Yeti 75 so that I could strap my cooler down. I would also have put another set in the bow. Since they are flush, there is nothing to catch a fly line on or stub your tow on.
> View attachment 11394


I've looked at those as well, I believe they are actually standard surfboard leash plugs, they are only a few bucks each.


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## Padre (Jul 29, 2016)

Gatorgrizz27 said:


> I've looked at those as well, I believe they are actually standard surfboard leash plugs, they are only a few bucks each.


And again, I think they would work well on a boat because it would enable you to put them wherever you think you might need them but if you don't, they aren't in the way.


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