# Do you use screws or let the Fiberglass hold it together?



## biasedmind (Jun 23, 2018)

If you think my design needs more support I have the pattern and wood to cut braces to attach to the front side of the old seat.


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## TripSmith (Sep 18, 2019)

In my opinion, fiberglass done correctly should hold it just fine. Probably could have gotten away with 1/2" or less to save some weight. 

But things like this depend on varying factors. You can do a thin fiberglass or thick fiberglass, it depends on if you are glassing all the way around or not I guess.... You can just paint it with epoxy and be done with it if it will support itself.... Or you can glass all the way around it (usually done when using foam board vs strong ply like you have)


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

Just curious,
do you plan to stand on the bow?


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## biasedmind (Jun 23, 2018)

No plan to stand on it. Maybe kneel on it if the the trolling motor gets hung, or if I add a stake out pole mount to the trolling motor. Those sides are only 12" wide. The rail around the boat has a wood core. It's the only other wood in the boat aside from the transom I'm redoing.


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## Rollbar (Oct 20, 2016)

Nice.
Bronze, galvanized screws and glass would be the best bet I would think.
Looks very good/good job.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Coat the bare wood with epoxy. While that is soaking in and kicking mix up some thickened and spread it where the pieces meet. After that cover with a couple sheets of glass. You'll be fine.

Look at any of the foam core builds on here- none of them are screwed. In fact, any screws used to position pieces are removed.

If this is going on a car 3/4 is going to be heavy.


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

biasedmind said:


> No plan to stand on it.


The reason I asked is that to me,
standing space is at a premium on 12 footers, even 14's and I like to fish standing


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## FrankZinCLE (Jul 11, 2019)

I 


biasedmind said:


> If you think my design needs more support I have the pattern and wood to cut braces to attach to the front side of the old seat.


I will be using coosa board I am using for the transom and the to mount be the rail on the floor for the nose of my 12 MFG at leave 12 inches so I can add the removable motor mount


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

If there is no need to remove the cap, glass it in, but don’t leave a screw in the mix. Screws only hold things in place until the epoxy kicks; if left, they add no strength thereafter, but they form a “hard spot” in the composite that expands and contracts differently than the surrounding materials and thereby concentrates cyclic load on a focal area, causing fracture of the adjacent epoxy over time.

If you need to get under the cap, over-drill the holes, masking tape over the bottoms, fill the holes with epoxy, redrill the holes to size and finally stick the deck down with stainless bolts.

It is much easier to stick it down properly with epoxy than set it up properly for bolts IMO.

Nate


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## biasedmind (Jun 23, 2018)

What's ya'll opinion if I said I had poly vs epoxy?


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

No problem, but don’t use it with plywood. It will also melt styrofoam. I think some of the high tech cores are polyester resin compatible, but I don’t know which ones.

Nate


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## biasedmind (Jun 23, 2018)

Since when can you not use poly with plywood? I know epoxy is better to at preventing water penitration but I've never heard you can't use poly with ply.


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## biasedmind (Jun 23, 2018)

Well now I went down the internet hole of plywood and poly. Seems to be a split opinion. The loudest appear to be against it. Since I already purchased my materials I guess we will see if I'm one of the "I didn't have a problem" people. I was already planning on precoating my pieces we shall see.


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