# non waxed poly resin and sanding



## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

You need to seal it off from air for it fo fully cure.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

You need to seal it off from air for it fo fully cure.


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## david_kohler (Jun 29, 2009)

Thanks, but how do sand in-between coats if the resin stays tacky or is it really not that tacky enough to clog the grit of say 80 grit sandpaper?


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## cutrunner (Jun 8, 2010)

The whole point of the no wax is so you don't have to sand inbetween coats if you do your next layer within the accepted window of time since the last layer.


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## david_kohler (Jun 29, 2009)

If I'm filling a hole and using 3 layers of cloth to build it back up to match the existing and my patch it a little bigger than the whole, I'm used to sanding the patch around the edges to make it match. Will this gum up the paper? It's a painted hull and very thin at that. It would be nearly impossible to get the last patch to lay smooth and at the exact height of the surrounding area. Sorry for the confusion and I really do appreciate the help.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

I have been told not to sand it cause it will gum up the paper. That is why I bought epoxy. Can someone with more experience chime in please.


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## david_kohler (Jun 29, 2009)

> I have been told not to sand it cause it will gum up the paper.  That is why I bought epoxy.  Can someone with more experience chime in please.


I've seen were some have said to add wax to the final coat of poly.

I might tell my friend the only way I'm will to help is with epoxy. I redid my boat with west systems too. I built some parts with poly but did a final coat of epoxy because the rest of my boat was done with it.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Shallow, you will be fine. It might clog some but it won't be like sanding wet caulking.

Although epoxy is a better choice, many boats are repaired using esters.

If the hull is really thin then epoxy might be a poor choice as it flexes differently than ester.


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## david_kohler (Jun 29, 2009)

> Shallow, you will be fine.  It might clog some but it won't be like sanding wet caulking.
> 
> Although epoxy is a better choice, many boats are repaired using esters.
> 
> If the hull is really thin then epoxy might be a poor choice as it flexes differently than ester.


Thanks Ducknut, that's the answer I was hoping for. I just keep picturing sanding wet glue.


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

You can sand laminating polyester resin.
In fact it's often necessary on many layups, where an air bubble
forms between layers due to uneven tension in different sections
of the woven roving. Can't sand the laminating resin with fine grit.
On the few hulls I've had to re-stringer, a 36 grit disc
on an electric grinder removed the problem and feathered the edges.


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## NoeSmyrnaBch (Aug 19, 2013)

i didn't add any wax and I didn't have any real issues with my build. As mentioned, sanding by hand isn't really an option unless you hate your arms...and yes you will go through some paper but its not THAT bad. Like DuckNut said...its not wet...just a little tacky from my experience. Not sure what he's using but I was using the FGCI Boatyard resin.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

FGCI as well, all levels of their resins. I do not use their epoxy.


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