# Zuke 30 hb glades skiff



## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

Has anyone run the power tech tlr, slr or slc3 on their suzuki? Any feedback if so? Getting the tiny tach put on this week and looking to start propping my boat. 


Seeing 30 mph solo out of the stock prop but the motor feels like it is working overly hard with 2 anglers in the higher rpm range.

I don't really need a cupped prop like the sra style, I haven't been able to ventilate the stock prop no matter how I run it. Was going to add a jack plate but I'm finding I can adjust the motor height enough with the trim tabs to go where I need to.


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## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

Got the tiny tach installed this evening. Anyone know where the idle rpm's should be on a new zuke 30? I haven't messed with the degree setting on the tach yet.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

This link says around 650

http://www.suzukioutboardforum.com/...30-4-stroke-fuel-inject-correct-idle-rpm.html


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## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

Thanks yobata


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## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

Found the rpm range at idle, factory set between 800 and 900. Figured I would share for anyone else that may need it in the future.


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## RunningOnEmpty (Jun 20, 2015)

el9surf said:


> Found the rpm range at idle, factory set between 800 and 900. Figured I would share for anyone else that may need it in the future.


Does your motor idle down really low after idling for a few minutes?


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## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

I didn't notice an idle change till I hooked up the tiny tach. It idles around 1000rpm's when initially started and slowly drops down to level off around 850 rpm's after about 20 - 30 seconds. 

I haven't run the tiny tach other than idling on the hose so I can't comment on rpms past that. Otherwise in the 15 hours I have put on it it doesn't idle noticably low regardless of how long I run it or let it idle.


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## RunningOnEmpty (Jun 20, 2015)

el9surf said:


> I didn't notice an idle change till I hooked up the tiny tach. It idles around 1000rpm's when initially started and slowly drops down to level off around 850 rpm's after about 20 - 30 seconds.
> 
> I haven't run the tiny tach other than idling on the hose so I can't comment on rpms past that. Otherwise in the 15 hours I have put on it it doesn't idle noticably low regardless of how long I run it or let it idle.


I'm pretty sure my IAC valve isn't working properly. The super low idle combined with a stainless prop causes some awful prop chatter.


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## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

RunningOnEmpty said:


> I'm pretty sure my IAC valve isn't working properly. The super low idle combined with a stainless prop causes some awful prop chatter.


Do you know what your idle rpm's are? What prop are you running?

I was wanting to switch to a stainless but with all the prop chatter issues I'm becoming less motivated to make the switch. In 7 months of use my aluminum prop still looks pretty decent. Was hoping for a bit more spead with a full boat, otherwise seeing 30 when running solo.


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## GatorFan321 (Jun 8, 2016)

My Suzuki 30 does not idle lower after running for a while. In fact it idled at the ramp for about 10 minutes this morning and stayed at 850-900. Mine with that Michigan Wheel ss prop chatters in forward most of the time under 1000RPM but it goes away at 1000. It rarely chatters in reverse. Goes away with a slight increase in RPM in reverse as well when its doing it. Wish there was a way to fix that annoying shit.


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## RunningOnEmpty (Jun 20, 2015)

el9surf said:


> Do you know what your idle rpm's are? What prop are you running?
> 
> I was wanting to switch to a stainless but with all the prop chatter issues I'm becoming less motivated to make the switch. In 7 months of use my aluminum prop still looks pretty decent. Was hoping for a bit more spead with a full boat, otherwise seeing 30 when running solo.


No tach yet. I have owned 2 stainless props so far, a powertech REB3 11P and a ballistic 13P. The ballistic 13P performed like the 11P PT because it doesn't have as much cupping I'm assuming? Both props ran 28/29 mph loaded with 2 people. The PT prop chattered the worst by far. This problem is common with other 4 stroke motors and the manufactures have special hubs that cure the chatter. As of now we don't have that option unfortunately. I'm testing a new solas aluminum prop this weekend and I will give you an update on the performance.


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## monzi (Apr 8, 2009)

Interesting read... Your comments about the 30 have me rethinking. I was considering a 30 hp for my Whipray. I don't need real speed, but I do need it to carry a load(two anglers and gear, most times).


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## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

What year is the hull?


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## monzi (Apr 8, 2009)

'99


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## RunningOnEmpty (Jun 20, 2015)

The cheap solas amita aluminum prop slowed me down 1.5 mph vs the stainless props. It's just as ugly as the factory prop, but the blades are a lot stronger. The prop chatter is gone now.


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## bermuda (Aug 22, 2010)

Hi - which solas did you get - is it 3 or 4 blade?

Thanks


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## RunningOnEmpty (Jun 20, 2015)

bermuda said:


> Hi - which solas did you get - is it 3 or 4 blade?
> 
> Thanks


 SOLAS Amita 3 blade 10-1/3 x 12 RH 4211-103-12. My stock 10P hits the rev limiter before full throttle so I went with the 12P. Now I'm wondering if I should have picked the 11P? You can try it for $50 and it's as good as new with the box.


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## bermuda (Aug 22, 2010)

I got the Amita4 Alum.(4213-102-11) 11 pitch 4 blade that i am going to try out this weekend - I'll let you know how it stacks up to my powertech stainless - I could prolly deal with losing a mph if the chatter goes away. I am concerned long term chatter might not be good for the motor.


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## RunningOnEmpty (Jun 20, 2015)

bermuda said:


> I got the Amita4 Alum.(4213-102-11) 11 pitch 4 blade that i am going to try out this weekend - I'll let you know how it stacks up to my powertech stainless - I could prolly deal with losing a mph if the chatter goes away. I am concerned long term chatter might not be good for the motor.


The chatter is basically the clutch dog taking a beating. It can't be good for it.


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## bermuda (Aug 22, 2010)

RunningOnEmpty said:


> The chatter is basically the clutch dog taking a beating. It can't be good for it.


Tested the Solas Amita4 Alum.(4213-102-11) 11 pitch 4 blade - See my Shadowcast 18 with new Suzuki thread for results.


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## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

Ran yesterday with the tiny tach for the first time something isn't right, maybe I need to trim the excess red wire off. Idle seems right, it's at 850. The max rpm's show around 10,000 which can't be right, the Rev limiter would have kicked in long before the rpm's actually got that high. I tried the other degree settings, they dropped the idle way down which I know isn't correct.


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## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

Messed with the tach again today and the wire placement, finally got it running right. 

Topped out max rpms at 5780 top speed around 31 - 32 with stock prop.

Manual says max rpm's are 6300 so I may have a little wiggle room to go down in pitch. Not sure if that will translate to any extra speed. Not sure if there are any benefits of higher rpms.

On another note I hit the ground pretty good yesterday. Had a group of yackers fishing the main running lane in a super shallow area. When I tried to go off to the side of them I found the bottom. In all the years fishing the Slippery creek area I have never seen anyone stupid enough to anchor up and fish in the middle of the creek. Now I'm trying to figure out if I put a slight bend in the prop shaft. When I rotate it by hand it doesn't look 100% true, not sure if Im seeing things. Took a bit of paint off the prop otherwise no visible damage. Fun times. Wish I had a rocket launcher on my boat at times.... If I did there would be a lot less boats and yaks in the lagoon lol.


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## fatalbert43 (Dec 13, 2006)

el9surf said:


> Messed with the tach again today and the wire placement, finally got it running right.
> 
> Topped out max rpms at 5780 top speed around 31 - 32 with stock prop.
> 
> ...


Check the exposed portion with a straight edge. Then......Get a zip tie and wrap around the cav plate or other fixed point; leave the tag end of the zip tie long enough to put the tip right aginst the prop shaft with a small gap. Then rotate the prop shaft; the zip tie gives you a good refferance point to determine if it is true. I use this hack method for all kinds of things, including bike rims.
This video kind of explains it as applied to a bike rim, but same concept.


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## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

fatalbert43 said:


> Check the exposed portion with a straight edge. Then......Get a zip tie and wrap around the cav plate or other fixed point; leave the tag end of the zip tie long enough to put the tip right aginst the prop shaft with a small gap. Then rotate the prop shaft; the zip tie gives you a good refferance point to determine if it is true. I use this hack method for all kinds of things, including bike rims.
> This video kind of explains it as applied to a bike rim, but same concept.


Thanks for the info just went out and checked it using that method. Looks true when I have something static for reference.


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## fatalbert43 (Dec 13, 2006)

el9surf said:


> Thanks for the info just went out and checked it using that method. Looks true when I have something static for reference.


If that seemed good then your most likely fine. If you got vibration it would tend to indicate it's in the prop.


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## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

Can't really tell if there is vibration being a tiller, you already get some vibration as normal feeback from the motor running. It's a lot easier to notice that kind of thing with a steering wheel.


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## RunningOnEmpty (Jun 20, 2015)

I hit bottom with my stock prop and it did the same thing. I think it tweaked the pressed rubber hub because it's perfect with a new prop.


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## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

Any thoughts on props? I'm tempted to leave it as is with the numbers I'm getting
Maybe look for 1 pitch down in an aluminum prop. 

With all the prop chatter experiences with ss props I'm not really too excited to drop the money on one. With the lagoon as low as it's been starting to think a jack plate would be money better spent.


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