# Proper Way to Launch a Boat?



## paint it black (Nov 3, 2007)

So I was at Flamingo today. While at the boat ramp, I noticed some guys launching a Hells Bay skiff. They backed the trailer to where the trailer tires just touched the water. Then, they stood on the trailer and pushed the skiff off the trailer. It looked rather uncomfortable, and like it would really cause some back pains. Mind you, the bunks were about 2 feet above the waterline. They did the same thing to pull out, but used an electric winch to pull the skiff up. 

I also witnessed some other guys appear to do something similar, but as they approached the ramp, the boat decided it wasn't going to wait to be pushed off and slid off the trailer and onto the hard concrete ramp. That must have screwed up their day. They put the boat back on the trailer and that was the last I saw of them. Of course I don't know if they came back or not because after that we jumped in the boat and took off. 

I have also seen pictures of guys launching these skiffs the same way. Is this a technical better way to launch, or are they just trying to save their trailers from the saltwater?


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

There's a whole post on this, let me see....

found it...

http://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1218419321


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## REELKEEN (Mar 24, 2009)

I guess I've just been doing it all my life and it comes naturally. 

If I'm by myself just tie some rope from the stern cleat to the winch. Back down the ramp and let the boat float off and then pull the vehicle anc trailer foward a little bit. 

To load it just drive it like you stole it! ;D
J/K I just take my time get lined up and figure the current out then just figure the angle of approach out in your head and ease your way onto the trailer. 

That pushing a boat off the trailer stuff is for the birds.


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## paint it black (Nov 3, 2007)

> I guess I've just been doing it all my life and it comes naturally.
> 
> If I'm by myself just tie some rope from the stern cleat to the winch. Back down the ramp and let the boat float off and then pull the vehicle anc trailer foward a little bit.
> 
> ...


This is exactly how I launch my boat and my friends boat. (I'm always the one launching it while he sits in his boat ready to power up). But after seeing these guys do it that way, and pictures of others launching these technical poling skiffs that way, I wondered if there was something to it other than not wanting to dip their trailers.


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## skinnywater3 (Feb 8, 2009)

Ramlin trailers are made so you only get the tires wet so that you can launch in more places. I can launch me G-man with all the kayakers because I just get my tires wet and push.


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## Taterides (Nov 10, 2008)

With aluminum trailers it is best to back it until the boat  starts to float. If you do not, it applies a negative load as the weight of the boat gets behind the axle. It causes a pumping of the frame where the frame is bent. Over time this  can cause metal fatigue and cracking of the I beam. Just flex a soda can back and forth and watch it crack.
   On a smaller boat, such as our, this is not quite as bad but definitely in the over 16' 1000# range needs to be backed in more.  
   Galvanized trailers have much less flex so they can  take more abuse. I personally prefer galvanized to aluminum. It just take some tlc to keep it pretty.
  I would say the proper way is to back it in. If they are drive on trailers, they have to be in the water to drive on.


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## mark_gardner (Mar 18, 2009)

> I guess I've just been doing it all my life and it comes naturally.
> 
> If I'm by myself just tie some rope from the stern cleat to the winch. Back down the ramp and let the boat float off and then pull the vehicle anc trailer foward a little bit.
> 
> ...


thats the way i launch also. if i have someone else with me i can have the boat in the water and the truck parked lickity split quick... when it comes time to get it wet, i dont mess around [smiley=chicken.gif]


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## topnative2 (Feb 22, 2009)

stern cleat!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Say what????????????? [smiley=1-mmm.gif]
All by yourself
How about backing down the ramp to the to where the tires get wet----undo winch ---take long bow line and tie/loop it around the winch [smiley=1-whoops1.gif]===
get back in truck back up at a speed u feel comfortable with brake and splash the boat----put truck in park >very important [smiley=1-crazy-eyes.gif]< use bow line to move boat or pull it in and hop on and dock it

if u screw it up w/ an audience  [smiley=shithappens.gif]---- laugh loudly and shake ur head in amazement ;D makes for a nice recovery --- and enjoy the day [smiley=1-beer.gif]>>>>>>>>>>>>>> go park the truck other people want to use the ramp ;D


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## marshman (Feb 9, 2007)

> With aluminum trailers it is best to back it until the boat  starts to float. If you do not, it applies a negative load as the weight of the boat gets behind the axle. It causes a pumping of the frame where the frame is bent. Over time this  can cause metal fatigue and cracking of the I beam. Just flex a soda can back and forth and watch it crack.
> On a smaller boat, such as our, this is not quite as bad but definitely in the over 16' 1000# range needs to be backed in more.
> Galvanized trailers have much less flex so they can  take more abuse. I personally prefer galvanized to aluminum. It just take some tlc to keep it pretty.
> I would say the proper way is to back it in. If they are drive on trailers, they have to be in the water to drive on.



huh??

again, i have to say florida is weird....trailers are designed to get wet...i can see using the method described at the edge of a road or a beach or some other "improvised" launch site....but on a ramp, just back the dang trailer in the water..thats what it is designed to do....why push and shove??


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## marshman (Feb 9, 2007)

> stern cleat!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Say what????????????? [smiley=1-mmm.gif]
> All by yourself
> How about backing down the ramp to the to where the tires get wet----undo winch ---take long bow line and tie/loop it around the winch [smiley=1-whoops1.gif]===
> get back in truck back up at a speed u feel comfortable with brake and splash the boat----put truck in park >very important [smiley=1-crazy-eyes.gif]< use bow line to move boat or pull it in and hop on and dock it
> ...



X2.....this is how people i know launch by theirselves...


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

Different styles of trailers, meant to be used in different manners.
A float on is designed to get wet. A roller set up is designed to stay dry.
If you enjoy rebuilding your trailer on a regular basis, and don't mind
spending the time and money, launch your trailer. A properly set up
bunk or roller trailer does not need to be submerged to easily
launch and retrieve your boat. You do however need to fully understand
how to configure your rollers and bunks to support the hull and allow
the hull to be slid on and off the trailer. I only get my tires wet, not just
on my latest microskiff, but also on my past offshore center consoles.
Never needed to sink my trailer when using the ramp. As for the brake
and bump method of launching, I've seen too many incidences
of said method going wrong, where the tow vehicle ended up in
the water also. Rough way to start a day.
However you go about it, keep it safe.
Pain, whether financial or physical, is life's way of saying don't do that!


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## brew1891 (Dec 10, 2006)

> So I was at Flamingo today. While at the boat ramp, I noticed some guys launching a Hells Bay skiff. They backed the trailer to where the trailer tires just touched the water. Then, they stood on the trailer and pushed the skiff off the trailer. It looked rather uncomfortable, and like it would really cause some back pains. Mind you, the bunks were about 2 feet above the waterline. They did the same thing to pull out, but used an electric winch to pull the skiff up.


Hell's Bay skiffs come with Ramlin trailers. They are designed so that the boat sits very low on the trailer. To launch the boat it is only necessary to get the tires barely wet. I put silicone on my bunks so it will slide off easier...but I do not take the strap off until I'm ready to push it off. Also, one of those really smart engineer types showed me that shaking the boat side to side before pushing it off helps break the surface tension or something like that...either way it works. It is not painful at all...usually one good push and it slides right off. The benefit of this is two fold. First it makes launching almost anywhere possible. Second, I have an eight year old ramlin that looks almost new since it sees very little salt water. So to answer your question, they were launching correctly for their particular trailer. Different methods for different trailers and boats.


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## topnative2 (Feb 22, 2009)

gotta know one's limitations................  [smiley=1-biggrin.gif] [smiley=1-beer.gif]

1.go slow

2.never ever unhook the cable until the trailer wheels  are in the water

unless u want the PAIN---it can happen to you [smiley=slapped-with-a-fish.gif]


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## noeettica (Sep 23, 2007)

I Back in until the Bunks are Half submerged ... Easy Peazzy  Get out of the truck pull the boat over to the Dock or shore ...Jump in truck and go park ... 5 minutes Tops !

Dave


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## REELKEEN (Mar 24, 2009)

Excuse my mistake. I meant Bow Cleat. I don't know what I was thinking.

On the other thought maybe I should just start loading the boat backwards, that way my buddy can back down the ramp as fast as he can go and slam on the brakes at the bottom meanwhile I'll have the motor rev'd to full throttle and take off as soon as I hit the water


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## Frank_Sebastian (Oct 15, 2007)

All I can add is a little history. Once almost all trailers were "break frame" type and many had hollow tube construction. Some were water pipe and some were square tube. If they were dunked they would rust from the inside out. The way most launched was to back in only as far as absolutely needed, but in no case, get the axle and hubs wet. The boat was very carefully balanced on the trailer so that when the trailer latch was released the frame could tilt up with a reasonable lift effort by the launcher. This caused the boat to slid off. The winch hook was secure until just before the tilt was done. The motors were always tilted up as well. (many ramps were shallow and had obstructions) The common practice was to have a line on the boat and if current or wind was a problem then a second "spring" line was fastened to the stern or amidships. It had to be controlled from the adjacent dock or shore. 

Today I use Float On trailers on a boat of any size. The automatic latch at the bow makes things easy, but you need a spotter that knows when it is latched to give the Okay to pull out. I had a 23.3 Dusky FAC until a few years ago and it was the easiest thing to launch and retrieve that I have owned. Before the Dusky I was trailering a 30' Morgan inboard. I still have nightmares about towing and launching, but the retrieval was the worst I have ever seen. The guy that bought it never seemed to have problems, but his sons fished with him almost all of the time so he had good help. My largest now is a 22'2" Aquasport and it sits on a 24' Float On. It is very easy to launch and retrieve as well, but the Dusky with twin 150s was the peach.

Spend an hour or two watching the boaters at the CR 512 ramp in Sebastian some sunday afternoon and learn from the mistakes of others. (don't snicker) LOL

Best regards,
Frank_S


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## boggob (Feb 20, 2007)

...in the water ;D


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## FSUfisher (Jul 16, 2007)

I could speculate on why they were launching weird. A couple weekends ago I was trying a brand new lake, which was mostly flooded timber with lots of hydrilla and other junk. Without thinking twice, I pulled the solo launch described before. I didn't think when I heard a loud thump as the boat slid off. When I tried to pull the trailer forward I got jerked to a complete stop. Turns out the ramp had a massive drop-off at the end and I had gone too far. To make matters worse, I had to swim the eery waters to retrieve my trailer in front of all the amused locals. Needless to say, when it was time to take out later, my trailer was hardly in the water.

The lesson of the day: Always check ramp conditions before backing in!!!


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## MATT (Apr 30, 2007)

Listen, It is ok to dip the hubs, All you do is get to the ramp and spend a few mins loading and taking the tiedown staps off, Check to make sure the plug is in and this will give your hubs time to COOL OFF.. as long as you let your hubs cool alittle dip, dip, dip and make your lunching safe for you and your skiff.


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

I've always floated them off. No salt issues, but we wash `em every trip. The trailer axles that we have broken were too light duty and broke due to metal fatigue, not corrosion. Boat trailer axles can all be submerged. The hubs require some attention, ie frequent greasing. The tilt trailers and push off trailers are designed to give you the option of launching without a ramp, but the axles can take being submerged if you have the option of floating it off. You had better wash it to keep it pretty, but no other huge concerns. Bottom line is that if your boat trailer can't get wet, you have a problem.

Nate


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## brew1891 (Dec 10, 2006)

> Bottom line is that if your boat trailer can't get wet, you have a problem.
> 
> Nate


And what problem would that be?


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## gnuraider (Nov 4, 2008)

I'm a floating, hub/axle dipper too...just park it for a few minutes while I'm doing all the pre-launch prep to let things cool off a bit, drop the trailer in, wet the bunks so she starts floating and we are all set.


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

I'm gonna go with the idea he means that a wet boat
loaded onto a trailer means a wet trailer. And washing the
boat makes for a wet trailer. So all trailers should be able to get wet.
I just prefer not to submerge mine.
Salt wreaks havoc with steel, and wiring.


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

...yeah, what Brett said.  My basic premise is that a boat trailer that can't get wet doesn't satisfy a major logical parameter, in that it must not only transport a boat to and from a water source, but also aid the movement of said boat into and out of the water, which can be assumed to result in liberal contact with said water. 

 :-? 

I will concede that our trailers are not brand new, shiny pretty, but washing will prevent structural damage due to heavy corrosion.  You will eventually have to rewire with heavier stuff than the manufacturer and solder(sp?) all the joints.  Those cute little twisty things don't cut it.  You will also destroy your tail lights much quicker, although unplugging the lights prior to backing in the water does slow the attrition.  

Many boats come with steel "tilt" trailers that are terribly under-built for the size of the boat, ie light frame, short bunks, puny axles, cheap wiring.  They do okay for short hauls to fresh water, but salt is tough on them, so you must stay on top of the washing.  The "I" beam aluminum trailers seem to be much better built, but clean them anyway.  Regardless, the trailers can handler submersion...

...BUT if you want to push your boat off the trailer, please feel free to do so as I will not pass judgment on your character for so trivial a matter.  I'll even help without bitching if you are taking me fishing. 

Nate


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

I occasionally observe that I like to hear myself talk.

Nate


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

> I occasionally observe that I like to hear myself talk.
> 
> Nate



I think that's a prerequisite to be a member here...


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## ko (Jun 9, 2007)

For the Dragonfly Emerger I have on the low-riding Float-On trailer, I back in until the water just comes to the wheels (keeps the trailer and hubs out of the salt) and the boat is light enough I can unhook it and push it off into the water. That way, the salt does not sit on the trailer all day. For hauling it out I sink the trailer till the bunks are just in the water and drive it on. No sweat. I guess I could winch it up but this is super easy and quick. Then it all gets a nice wash with salt away when I get home.


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## brew1891 (Dec 10, 2006)

My point was why would anyone "have a problem" if the manufacturer of their trailer spent loads of money on R&D and then made a trailer with the explicit purpose of having the boat pushed off and keeping the trailer well out of the water? It's not a problem of getting the trailer wet but using the trailer as designed. Maybe you have never seen or used a ramlin but once you saw one or used one you would understand that pushing is ok sometimes. It's ok to think outside the box.

As a side note, on my father's offshore boat we dunk that thing like there is no tomorrow...but that is the way the trailer is designed...and the only way that boat is coming off the trailer.


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## hmaadd29 (Aug 18, 2007)

I don't know if its the proper way but it sure is easier.  I don't like other people messing with my boat unloading or loading.  I like to do it all myself and this is the easiest and most effiecient way.  Here is an ameratrailset up the same way.  Push it off and winch it back on.


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

Easy now. My "if it can't get wet, you've got a problem" comment was targeted at the hypothetical situation in which someone built a boat trailer that couldn't get wet. I was just giving you all a hard time for worrying so much, as all boat trailers are built to tolerate submersion because no matter what the designers plan, some yahoo like me is gonna dunk it and they know it. Both methods can be useful based on the situation. I've had to grudgingly push the boat off the trailer a few times because of low water or short ramps and I can think of times it would be better to float off regardless of trailer type. As I said before, it is a non-issue, so do whatever floats your boat. ;D

Nate


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## Salty_South (Feb 25, 2009)

I get the trailer a little wet so my boat slides off easily, and then park. Same goes for pulling her out.. I get the trailer as wet as necessary, winch the boat up and go. I always wash my boat after use and I make a good effort to wash the trailer too. This is with my aluminum continental trailer.


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