# Mud Minnow rewire and rehab



## mpsig13 (Jan 6, 2011)

I recently acquired a 1999 mud minnow w/a 02 merc 25hp 2 stroker. The hull needs some cleanup but will come out the other side just fine. However it needs to be rewired front to back. I'm not familliar with electrical other than some basics as using tinned stranned wire is a must. I've noticed a lot of the gheenoes have the battery positioned at the bow of the boat and thats the way this one came. 

My plan is to use 6 gauge from the terminals of the battery. The ground will go to a bus block and the positive will go to the battery switch. 

From the switch I will use 6 gauge to go to a 40 amp breaker. 

From the breaker and the ground bus I was planning on using 10 gauge to run back to the stern to a blue sea systems 12 slot blade fuse terminal with a built in ground bus. 

From there I would be rigging switches in succession using 16 gauge wire. 

All components (bildge pump, live well etc would have 18 gauge run to them. 

The only exception would be the stereo where I plan on using 16 gauge because I'm unsure of the amp draw but it shouldnt be over 10 amps. 

Any thoughts from the gurus would be appreciated. I dont want to set the new ride on fire. 

Also when determining necessary wire gauge do you measure the distance from the fuse panel location to the item to be powered or from the batery itself????


----------



## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

I calculate the wire gauge needed as if I was running direct from the battery to the item,
then back to the battery. So it's the total round trip distance that determines the gauge I use.
Even though I'm using a buss bar and fused switch panel in the circuit, I like to err on the safe side.

http://bluesea.com/files/resources/newsletter/images/DC_wire_selection_chartlg.jpg


----------



## mpsig13 (Jan 6, 2011)

> I calculate the wire gauge needed as if I was running direct from the battery to the item,
> then back to the battery. So it's the total round trip distance that determines the gauge I use.
> Even though I'm using a buss bar and fused switch panel in the circuit, I like to err on the safe side.
> 
> http://bluesea.com/files/resources/newsletter/images/DC_wire_selection_chartlg.jpg


Based on the chart you provided I'm estimating the distance from the front compartment to the rear fuse panel and back as 20 but maybe 23ft with bends in the wire) so I'll make it 25ft. It appears as if 6 gauge is the recommended. that doesnt leave a hole lotta room in the rigging tupe thats for sure but better safe than fire. Thanks for the response. 
How about the breaker is 40 amps to little? Thanks


----------



## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

Breaker amperage is calculated based on total maximum circuit draw.
Breaker should be sized to 20% more than total needed.
This allows for minor surges without tripping, but will trip if a short takes place.


----------



## mpsig13 (Jan 6, 2011)

the whole system might draw 25 amps so I went with a 3o amp breaker as the next available choice was a 40. If it trips I'll go bigger but 25 amps is if everything is on all at once....here are some finished photos...


----------



## Dillusion (May 21, 2012)

Looks awesome!

Did you repaint the inside of the hatches?


----------



## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Had good servicer and fair prices here

http://gregsmarinewiresupply.com/Zen/


----------



## mpsig13 (Jan 6, 2011)

> Looks awesome!
> 
> Did you repaint the inside of the hatches?


nope. used some bargain brand degreaser and some elbow grease oh and a shop vac for the loose stuff.. Gonna go back threw some areas with a plastic bristle brush and se if I cant get some more dirt out of the corners


----------

