# Setting up a tunnel hull



## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

For that size hull a 90-115hp jet is ideal. Get the jet tunnel and hydraulic jackplate with a transom that matches the motor height. I had a 16' jet tunnel with a 60/45 Mercury and it was OK but not ideal for the areas I fish. A good forum to check out for outboard jets is tinboats.net and a good business that sells and sets up outboard jets is called...Outboard Jets. Keep the hull light and weight forward by keeping fuel in the bow and having a forward console. 
http://outboardjets.com/
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewforum.php?f=85&sid=a35fc76f9d488458c37b07482e7c861c


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

With a properly set up jet foot on a tunnel hull, you won't need a jack plate. Before you decide on a jet, be aware that the economy and speed will be significantly worse than a prop and that if you're running in an area with significant weed, you could have problems. I've had more than one jet rig, and unless I were running on clear, shallow, rocky rivers, I wouldn't have another. With a good tunnel hull/jack plate combo and the right prop you can run nearly as shallow, have fewer weed problems, save gas, go faster, make a lot less noise and have better control around the dock, especially with any current and wind.


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## jtf (Jan 16, 2014)

Vertigo, that's been my use with the prop tunnel setup. Wish Alweld put a bigger tunnel on the Marsh. It's a great build quality other than the tunnel. 

Batteries/fuel/etc are forward. Need to find someone running the Alweld tunnel before I decide. Would rather have a prop. Can switch to the Alumacraft instead, about the same price but Alweld is better built.

Problem with tinboats is lots of opinions, not experience about Alweld. But the same is for NC dealers; one said prop tunnel is offered, other says no tunnels offered. So I'm stuck and will probably switch to Alumacraft. Factory isn't any help, asked how a 3" tunnel is ANY HELP with a prop and got answer "we sell lots."

Factory says their 3" tunnel is the ticket with prop...I can't see it. Had five metal boats with either jack plate or tunnel/prop.


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## Zum (Apr 3, 2016)

Factory says their 3" tunnel is the ticket with prop...I can't see it. Had five metal boats with either jack plate or tunnel/prop.
I run a smaller C1652V Crestliner(2006)with the same type tunnel...a jet tunnel
I use a prop, tillered...40hp in the past, down to a 30hp now, no jack plate. 20" transom with a long shaft outboard I can run it high. I'm can't remember what limits me first, turns with some blow out or the fact my outboards water pick ups stop pumping good. I get approx.28mph by myself, throws some spray at WOT a jack plate might stop.The cavitation plate is an inch or more above the tunnel top. My skeg has been broken in the past(never fixed) so my prop is pretty much equal with the end of it. I still curl the tip of an aluminum prop once an awhile(of plane) but without some type of protector, that's going to happen.
I know it's not the same boat but at least it's a prop with a jet tunnel, aluminum boat also.


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

I've run prop tunnels, jet tunnels, jets with no tunnel, props with no tunnel, and any other combo you can think of. After due consideration, if I ever buy another boat it will be a very shallow V (almost flat) with no tunnel. This type hull gets on plane faster and shallower than any other prop, will run almost as shallow as a tunnel, and is way more efficient and faster than a jet and will probably pole better. It will also float in less water than a tunnel jet or prop. The problem in my area is limestone rock at random intervals. Running shallow is fine, but if you don't know the territory, you're going to find a rock no matter how shallow you're running. Hitting a rock drafting 4" does just about as much damage as hitting it drafting 8". Might as well draft 8" go faster, float higher, save gas and stick to known tracks.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

most of my damaged props and skeg scars have come at low speed.


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