# Trailer Lights



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

This is a beat to death issue but I'm going to post it anyway
My left back light went out after my last trip to Fl and dunking it for 5 days
I've been looking for a tin coated copper harness because the copper wire rots after about 5 years. I'm not putting just copper wire back on there
So I'm going to get a new light and patch it up during fishing season then this Fall I'll tackle this. I'm not a trailer light expert but there's wire on there now I just have follow it and replace it
My biggest problem is finding a tinned copper harness


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## jlindsley (Nov 24, 2015)

I would replace the system entirely so your lights are never submerged. Have them run up the guide rails on trailer.


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## DBStoots (Jul 9, 2011)

Watch the video

etrailer wiring upgrade kit with junction box


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## Fairweather (Aug 17, 2020)

jlindsley said:


> I would replace the system entirely so your lights are never submerged. Have them run up the guide rails on trailer.


I did that with mine. Works great.


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

jlindsley said:


> I would replace the system entirely so your lights are never submerged. Have them run up the guide rails on trailer.


I don't have any guide rails on my trailer nor will they fit


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

DBStoots said:


> Watch the video
> 
> etrailer wiring upgrade kit with junction box


I couldn't open the link


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## NealXB2003 (Jun 8, 2020)

I just chased down a similar short in mine last week. Turns out they stuffed 5' of wire up in the trailer frame instead of cutting the harness to length.


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## coconutgroves (Sep 23, 2013)

permitchaser said:


> I couldn't open the link


Google is your friend:



https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories-and-Parts/Spectro/38656.html



Nearly all trailer light problems are due to grounds. I don't agree about wiring where nothing gets wet - its a boat trailer, it is supposed to get wet. Use water proof connections, get something that solves the ground problem, run LEDs.


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## Snakesurf (Jun 18, 2019)

NealXB2003 said:


> I just chased down a similar short in mine last week. Turns out they stuffed 5' of wire up in the trailer frame instead of cutting the harness to length.


That was just in case you wanted to lengthen your trailer.LOL. Some people take no pride in their work and half ass everything.


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## Fairweather (Aug 17, 2020)

coconutgroves said:


> Google is your friend:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Good point about grounding. I somehow never could get an acceptable ground through the hitch to my truck chassis, so I made a short jumper using large gauge wire and clamps like you would have on jumper cables and clamp one end on the trailer and the other end to a good ground point on my truck chassis and I haven't had a problem since.


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

coconutgroves said:


> Google is your friend:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


That trailer box looks cool but not waterproof. Most trailer harness are 3 wire and there only 4 lights so why 6-7


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Also most harness come 18' I need one longer and tinned copper. I guess I could use my 14 gauge to make it longer


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

I just got two 100 ft spools of 16 awg tinned wire.
One at $13.89 and one just over $15.00 delivery included.
didn't get it for the trailers but would work there too.

Prices very widely but if you check ever few days you can get a deal.


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

mro said:


> I just got two 100 ft spools of 16 awg tinned wire.
> One at $13.89 and one just over $15.00 delivery included.
> didn't get it for the trailers but would work there too.
> 
> Prices very widely but if you check ever few days you can get a deal.


Thanks @mro where did you get it. Also you will need 3 wires. I may just stick with 14 gauge to last longer


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

I'm going to look for water proof LED lights. Any suggestions?????


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Did some research and found these at Harbor Freight. LED with epoxy sealed wire


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## fishnpreacher (Jul 28, 2018)

Check the gauge wire used in the light. I bought some once that had 20 or lighter wire in the light....lasted about a month. The harness was 16.....foolish to have bought it


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

fishnpreacher said:


> Check the gauge wire used in the light. I bought some once that had 20 or lighter wire in the light....lasted about a month. The harness was 16.....foolish to have bought it


I try to go back as far as I can to use 14 gauge


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## Steve_Mevers (Feb 8, 2013)

I agree 100% about tinned wire. I bought 2 strand 14 ga tinned wire from West Marine right off the spool. Got about 50' of it and made my own harness. Bought two LED lights and it has works great the last several years. I got to agree with everyone that a lot of the problems are associated with the ground. I think if I were to do it again, I would just get 3 strand and run an independent ground to the lights rather than grounding them to the trailer. But either way, get tinned wire, it last so much longer than the non tinned crap they sell for trailer harnesses.


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## Mako 181 (May 1, 2020)

I only use Dry Launch lights. Get them wet for years and never have to replace them.
I believe they are #701.


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Well I hooked these up to my 12v battery like I always do but they didn't come on. So when it stops raining I'll take the battery out and hook them up to the trailer ground
I'm looking up Dry launch lights Thanks


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

I hooked up one of the new lights and connected the ground boom I got light. So we'll see
couldn't find dry launch lights


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

I don't know about you but the copper wire on my trailer for lights is just about toast. Maybe one more year. I found 16 gauge tinned wire on Tiny Boat Nation site. I can get 25yds spools in green, yellow and brown.
So what's the best way to attach the wire to the trailer frame. I know there are metal clips but those don't do well on a saltwater trailer. The guy who rebuilt my trailer put plastic self adhesive but they all fell off
I'm going to rewire my trailer soon as this fall


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

I got those two off eBay.
Sorry, that info should have been included...
Amazon was about double as well as most of the adds on eBay.

For trailer lights.
I run the wires through the trailers frame.

Had a transport trailer at work that had problematic lights and no way to run the wires inside the frame. I was just going to wirer tie them emplace along the frame but walking through the shop I saw my pile of industrial hose.
I wire tied some 5/8" rubber hose to the inside of the frame, then used a vacuum to suck a piece of rag with mono tied to it through the hose to pull the wires through.
Where the wires exited the hose I used some "gasket maker" type automotive sealant then a piece of heat shrink.


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## Steve_Mevers (Feb 8, 2013)

permitchaser said:


> I don't know about you but the copper wire on my trailer for lights is just about toast. Maybe one more year. I found 16 gauge tinned wire on Tiny Boat Nation site. I can get 25yds spools in green, yellow and brown.
> So what's the best way to attach the wire to the trailer frame. I know there are metal clips but those don't do well on a saltwater trailer. The guy who rebuilt my trailer put plastic self adhesive but they all fell off
> I'm going to rewire my trailer soon as this fall


I learned a great trick from a trailer manufacture about 20 years ago on how to run wire on aluminum channel frame trailers. He drilled a small holes about 2' apart all the way down the bottom of the aluminum channel. Then he inserted a wire tie through the hole, around the wire and back out the hole and then zipped the ends together. I have been doing that ever since.


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

First I’m not drilling holes in my trailer frame. As you know it’s an I beam. I thought about running some pvc to hold wires but that’s just somewhere water can get in
@mro can you post the clips again


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

permitchaser said:


> can you post the clips again


What clips are you referring to?

*_*

Amazon $9.50, free ship (50 feet)



Amazon.com



for led lights 16 awg tinned is more than enough.
If you were to run pvc pipe you could seal the ends like I did to my hose so it would become water proof. Instead of using the "gasket maker" stuff i used I don't see why silicone calking wouldn't work and it's only a few bucks. I just used what I had on hand.


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

mro said:


> What clips are you referring to?
> 
> *_*
> 
> ...


Some kind of clip to hold wire on the inside of the trailer I beam. I might just hot glue it on


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

Might take a look at this.
If this won't do I'd call them to see if they something else that will.









Heyco SunRunner Stainless Steel Cable Clip | Webo Solar


Shop Heyco SunRunner Stainless Steel Cable Clip | CALL US and get answers fast! | Flat shipping rates.




webosolar.com


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

mro said:


> Might take a look at this.
> If this won't do I'd call them to see if they something else that will.
> 
> 
> ...


That's the ticket. SS is what I need thanks @mro


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

Ask if the clip works on the thickness of the metal your attaching it to


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## LastCast (Jun 13, 2012)

Before I put on the pole lights I replaced all of the wiring with bilge wire. It's tinned and double insulated never had wiring issues sine. The pole lights are now about ten years old


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

I soft hooked up the new year trailer lights and took my 12v battery to the front of the trailer. Hooked black to the ground pig tail then put the red on each post. Running lights came on the left then stop/turn came on. I couldn't see the other side but I'm going to hook up my truck as soon as I recover FROM the Kidney Stone Surgery yesterday. 
by soft hook up I used crimp connections that I will replace with shrink solder/glue then shrink sleeves over that


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## Hat Trick (Oct 27, 2019)

jlindsley said:


> I would replace the system entirely so your lights are never submerged. Have them run up the guide rails on trailer.


Ditto on this approach. I fought with submersible trailer lights for 10 years then got the ones to mount on top of my guide posts. I have NEVER had a problem since.


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

I don’t have a way to mount my lights higher on my trailer so they get wet


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

https://www.etrailer.com/Boat-Trailer-Parts/CE-Smith/CE27600K90.html?feed=npn&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google%20%7C%20Shop%20-%20Boat%20Trailer%20Parts&adgroupid=89022318194&campaignid=202804817&creative=404001548300&device=c&devicemodel=&feeditemid=&keyword=&loc_interest_ms=&loc_physical_ms=9032047&matchtype=&network=g&placement=&position=&gclid=CjwKCAjw55-HBhAHEiwARMCszpP8qBTpJ_S-PWV0BFFr4dIMJE9fJFUZKhXGTOlcG5glCUSXjoEN2xoC5GUQAvD_BwE



I have a set of bolt on side bunks on the Nymph trailer.
When I get around to it (hopefully soon) I'll be putting some on a little 12 footer trailer too.
They are a real help loading in the wind or cross current which I do alone 90 percent of the time.
That said... my lights are mounted on the trailer and get submerged each use.


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Thanks @mro but that won't get the lights up. Guess I'll have to get a new trailer...not


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

I was working on my right light again couldn’t get it to work called @fishingprecher he said is the side light working, yes then check the wire from the side light to the rear light. Well I did and what do you know the brown wire was disconnected so I cut all old wire off and replaced it from the side light to the rear light. I used 14 gauge tinned copper. Then success. Then I sprayed everything with dielectric spray


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## Joe Capin (Apr 5, 2017)

following


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## jesseoshea (Jul 10, 2018)

The double insulated and tinned wire at west marine is expensive but is a great product. Attach your own pigtail at the coupler end that doesn’t get dunked. Solder and heat shrink your connections at the lights


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