# Need some more help with my repairs



## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

sorry heres the picture


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## Ron_W. (Dec 14, 2006)

As far as glassing on the inside, do it on the inside where you can but with a light hull like that several layers of glass on the exterior is adequate. 

The drain hole tube is brass but could have a leak between the tube and hull which would be though to repair. If that's the case I expect you would have to remove it and install a new one, probably plastic installed with a good dose of sealant.


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## Un-shore (Sep 27, 2007)

The repairs made to the bottom are good as far as flotation goes, but if you have holes on the inside of your bote then water can get in to the repairs you just made and ruin the fiberglass. Do like Ron W. said, but if you have spots that you are worried about and can't get to you can try what I did. I think you should be okay though if you are talking about a single layer of glass. When you did the outside the inside should be repaired also. 
I had a concern with a skiff that I am repairing because there is two layers of glass with wood between them. What I did is with the bote upright and with the bow slightly tilted down I poured thinned topside paint into the bottom of the bote. Then I worked it into every nook, crack, hairline crack, and possible location that water gathers. I wrapped a baggie over the plug and put a thin coat of silicone grease on it to keep it from sticking. 
My objective was for the paint to soak in to wherever water could go and seal the cracks up. The one concern I have is that I wanted the paint to be thinner than water and have learned lately that alcohol (paint thinner) eats up fiberglass. Big problem in fiberglass fuel tanks, maybe not so much a problem with what I did. I let the mixture soak in over a few hours tilting the trailer up and down to get it everywhere along the keel (under seats), working it in with a brush where I could. I then followed with non thinned topside paint. If I where to do it again I might not thin the paint ,or not so much anyway. 

As far as the leak around the plug sleeve goes, dremel out around the sleeve on both sides about 1/4"-3/8" wide and just deep enough so you are into the glass and fill with epoxy. Are you sure it is the hull that is leaking? Is the plug old or need adjustment?


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

thanks for the reply guys, I have decided on a corse of action, I'm going to rig up a roller on a stick and fiberglass the tunnel under the seat, then do the same thing when I paint, should be fine when I'm done, and as far as the plug goes I'm going to grind the area around it and refiberglass it then I'll test it again, if it still leaks I'll tak further action, I actually ruined a new plug by tightening it to much so I really think the tube is fine it the seal thats bad.


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## Guest (Dec 18, 2007)

> ..as far as the plug goes I'm going to grind the area around it and refiberglass


 [smiley=badidea.gif]

5200. It will remain flexible.


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## iMacattack (Dec 11, 2006)

[smiley=badidea.gif]... 

Do what Capt. Ron said!


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

> Do what Capt. Ron said!


too late :-? I've already done the repairs!

I didn't want to use the 5200 because I'm going to be painting the boat in the next few weeks and I don't want it flaking off. as far as the drain plug goes I've already fixed it, I took my dremel with a cutting bit and made a channel about 3/16" wide and 1/8" deep on both the inside and outside. then I filled it in with fresh resin. it doesn't leak at all now! once I'm done painting I may reinforce it with 5200.


now as far as for under the bench is concerned this is what I did:

heres a pic of what I'm takin about.









I took a peice of threaded rod and stuck a foam roller on it, well that didn't work out cause the foam shreaded when I tried squeezing it into the small space. So I took some shop rags and cut it up and bolted it onto the rod, this is what I ened up with:









it worked out great, I sanded everything I could get to, then I cleaned it all inside and out with acetone using my rig. then I masked off the area so the resin only got on the areas I wanted it to, dunked my rig in the resin and ran it through several times from both ends. when I looked in the hole (by almost standing on my head) and shined a light through it I could see that all the surfaces were nice and wet with resin. I feel much better about this repair now and when I paint I'll use the same setup to paint the inside under all the benches.


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## Mille Kentk (Jun 5, 2020)

I make repairs in the house and am at the stage of installing doors. It was a problem; I solved it using https://gezit-doors.com/. There I found great doors for a small price that fit the overall design. I liked the service and delivery speed.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

This is a 13 year old thread about boats, on a boat forum. You might want to ask elsewhere.


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

Trollbot!


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Mille Kentk said:


> I make repairs in the house and am at the stage of installing doors. It was a problem; I do not know how to choose the right door. Tell me who to contact or how to measure.


If you are not smart enough to measure the hole in the wall, then you are definitely too stupid to replace the doors yourself.

Might I suggest leaving what you have. Open the door, lock the lock, step outside and close the door. See, the doors work great - problem solved.


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## timsol (Jun 27, 2020)

Good time of day. I also make repairs in the house. Now I need to make floors all over the house. I decided to make everything from Magnesium Oxide Boards. I think this is the best modern solution. Also such plates can be used both on a ceiling and on walls. I think it will work well.


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## Salty Dawg (Mar 10, 2020)

.


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