# Conchfish 16



## 17376

Since everyone doesn’t have IG or not a member of Bateau.com, I will doing a build thread here. I started today build a strong back and was also able to cut some mold frames out. Here’s is the progress so far.


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## yobata

I tried searching for your build thread on Bateau but could not find it. Could you provide a link? I am very interested in watching your progress. Will you be updating both Bateau and this site or is one going to be more detailed than the other?

Thanks!


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## Fritz

If this is gonna be like a Whip then I too would love to follow along.


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## 17376

Read the attached link. CM states that this is his updated Whipray design of his new way of thinking.

http://chrismorejohn.com/conchfish-16-plans-for-sale/


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## 17376

I will detail a lot of things. Such as building a one off deck, hatches that are totally foam core, no wood in this boat at all. I haven’t found any good videos or real information on foam core that was actually informative. So I will posting videos and pictures of things like that or anything else you all might want to know or learn about.


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## hillcharl

I’m looking forward to watching your build!


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## Pole Position

yobata said:


> I tried searching for your build thread on Bateau but could not find it. Could you provide a link??


https://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=63175


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## albrighty_then

Can you do me a favor and hurry up and build this thing? Haha just joking, this is going to be an interesting build, I'll be following it. I've been wondering how to go about building a composite skiff like this.


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## 17376

I’ll try my best to hurry. I think it will take me about 3 months to do it. I’m going to try and go south tomorrow to get foam but it may be Monday. 

Anyone heading north from ft Pierce/Vero Beach towards Jacksonville?


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## not2shabby

This will be a great build. Best of luck! Following closely...


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## 17376




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## 17376

It’s coming together! Was able to get all the frames up. Now I have to cut out chines/spray rails. Then it will be ready for foam.


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## Backcountry 16

I am always so impressed with how you guys build these boats.


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## 17376

Thanks, I have built many wood boats. This is my first full foam core. I think it will be even easier due to the fact that the foam is easier to shape than wood. I also have to create the front “stem” to shape the bow.


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## Backcountry 16

Yes the one your selling is sweet looking also nice work.


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## 17376

Thanks! Someone in Jax beach bought it.


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## Backcountry 16

Travis Smith said:


> Thanks! Someone in Jax beach bought it.


Nice perfect timmti for you huh it was a hell of a deal.


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## Pole Position

A couple of questions:
What brand of foam did you order, and what was the thickness?

Are Chris' plans relatively easy to follow?


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## 17376

I went with Airex T92. The plans call for 5/8 thick, but he said 3/4 would be fine.

Yes and no. A set of plans from Bateau are easy compared to these. It is broken down into 1/32’s. Those measurements are from a CAD drawing showing the frames. His personal written measurements are to the 1/8th but not shown on a frame drawing. It in a box that has chine A to Chine B for example. I will try to take a picture of what I’m talking about later.

He really recommended not to use expensive epoxy such as S3 or West Systems. He said find an epoxy that you enjoy working with preferably 1:1 or 2:1. 

This boat can also be built with polyester. I’m not familiar with it and know it isn’t waterproof.


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## yobata

@Travis Smith Are your stations just MDF? Why didn't you make some of the stations that will become the bulkheads and the transom from the core material? It might save you some time later?

Also, did you have the plans printed to scale to precisely shape the stations or just from measurements?

Looks awesome just sitting on that strongback!!


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## 17376

I used MDF as I will be building another one off, off of this. The bulkheads will be foam core so I didn’t want to damage the foam using them on the mold.

I used the measurements from the plans. You don’t get accurate measurements or tracing from full size paper. 

I just got off the phone with gulf stream composites. The shipping on the Airex is going to be 300+ dollars.


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## albrighty_then

Travis Smith said:


> I used MDF as I will be building another one off, off of this. The bulkheads will be foam core so I didn’t want to damage the foam using them on the mold.
> 
> I used the measurements from the plans. You don’t get accurate measurements or tracing from full size paper.
> 
> I just got off the phone with gulf stream composites. The shipping on the Airex is going to be 300+ dollars.


You can cut the foam into quarter sheets, that's what I did and it saved a lot on shipping. I'm not sure if you need full sheets or not.


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## 17376

I thought about it but I think it’s going to be better to have full length strips to get a better shape.


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## not2shabby

Excuse my ignorance. What are the dimensions of a full sheet?


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## yobata

Where are you located? Maybe a closer supplier (even if the price per sheet was more expensive) would be a better option?


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## 17376

I am in Jacksonville and I don’t know of anyone here who sells it.


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## yobata

Atlantic Coast Marine in Jax has the ability to order core material, but I have no idea about their pricing


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## 17376

I’ll call them thanks


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## 17376

I got it within about a 1/16th of an inch and gave up for the night. I am going to try and get it a little closer tomorrow.


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## yobata

Were measurements for the stem included in the plans? Looking good!!

Is the plan to cut the core into strips (similar to a cedar strip build)?

Also sorry for so many questions, but if you can't tell, I'm really enjoying your build thread!


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## 17376

Yes all the measurements are included.You can also extend this boat out to 17 feet.The plans doesn’t really specify how to cut the foam. However I am probably going to run 2 to 3 inch strips from about mid way forward. Once I get the foam I will decide how I will cut it.

Ask as many questions as you all want. I will answer them to the best of my knowledge.


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## yobata

Is core going on the chine notch part? How tall is the transom, 15" or 20"? What fastener are you using to fix the foam strips to the frames? 

I'll share this link with you for a polymer nail/staple producer that may be useful since you can easily sand it off and it doesn't require removing and filling the holes with epoxy: http://raptornails.com


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## 17376

It calls for 1/4” ply but I think I am going to run foam. Idk how thin they have though. I haven’t decided on transom length yet. I am thinking 15” with jackplate. So it can be light as possible. I was going to use finish nails with my finish nailer. Once flip just pull the nails out with the frame. But that is a better idea thanks


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## Rick hambric

If you’re on instagram, there’s two guys building these. One is mantis inshore (building a foam core) and the other is conchfish16(wood strip) you can use ply for the chines or Coosa. Coosa is the better choice. If you use foam then you would need to cut the notch bigger. 
There are very good poly resins out there that will make a wonderful boat, a good middle ground is using vinyl ester Resin. But to each his own. Unless you are going to leave the skiff in the water for months/years at a time, poly would make a damn fine skiff for a lot less $$$ than epoxy.


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## 17376

I have never work with polyester. Wouldn’t the laminate schedule change? Right now 4 layers of 10oz cloth. Wouldn’t you have to run a mat?


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## Rick hambric

Travis Smith said:


> I have never work with polyester. Wouldn’t the laminate schedule change? Right now 4 layers of 10oz cloth. Wouldn’t you have to run a mat?


The schedule would change. Starting from outside moving in—- 10oz, 1.5oz chop, 10oz, 1.5chop. Foam/wood core, 1.5 chop, then last internal layer of 10oz.


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## 17376

Inside and out touching the foam would be mat then cloth. I would also be loosing two layers of material inside and outside. Would that be recommended?


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## 17376

I got the all glued up before work. I will finish the chines tomorrow then begin the bow foam. I plan to be glassing next weekend


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## Rick hambric

I missed one layer of chop above. It’s correct now. It’s the schedule Chris told me they used at HB. The core was 3/4in H80. If it’s an epoxy build then no need for chop. If you save $$ on resin and go to vinyl or poly, then you need the chop. Talking $600 in resin saving vs $100 of chop.... also you can use kevlar for the inner 10oz layer on the outside of The hull. It has a coarser finish so you don’t want it to be the outer layer as all it would do is give you more work faring.


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## 17376

ok thanks for the information. Now as far as mixing fairing material or peanut butter is it done the same way?


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## millerrep

Wow, this is a great project! Best luck, I like the plan to do a second one.


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## 17376

thanks man!!! hoping to be glassing this coming weekend as long as the weather holds up


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## Rick hambric

Travis Smith said:


> ok thanks for the information. Now as far as mixing fairing material or peanut butter is it done the same way?


If you go poly or vinyl, just buy a 5gal bucket of fairing mix. Much easier and less to worry. I’d still make epoxy putty for fillets though.


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## 17376

Thanks Rick for all the information. If I were to do epoxy fillets, polyester or vinlyester wouldn’t stick to it I thought????? 

Well I got some more done. Working shift work 12 hour shifts kicks your ass when you’re trying to dedicate a couple hours a day to building a boat. But here’s my progress today.


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## Rick hambric

Sand the filets and you should be fine. Vinyl would be better as it matches epoxy a little closer on the chemical structure.


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## Rick hambric

Without prepping, poly/vinyl will make a chemical bond to previous poly/vinyl that hasn’t cured rock hard, where epoxy is only a mechanical bond. If the existing material has fully cured then it will need to be prepped (sanded & cleaned) to accept a proper mechanical bond.


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## 17376

Ok thanks!! Have you used us composites resins? Or anyone else?


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## 17376

I was able to get more done.


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## jonrconner

Looking really nice, good work!
And what is that old car?
JC


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## 17376

Thanks man!! And it’s a 63 Dodge Dart GT convertible


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## jonrconner

I was thinking Valient, I was close!
JC


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## 17376

Basically the same car


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## Pole Position

I saw from the pics on the InstagramConchfish16 that he had rounded the stern; are you going to do that, and if so, how ( fairing material )??

Congrats on the progress-- at the rate you are going you will be thru in no time.


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## 17376

The transom has some rounding to it but the corners won’t be really rounded like his


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## 17376

Moving right along. However with NE FL weather I don’t see my self glassing anytime this week. 

It took me 4 sheets of 3/4” Divinycell and about a half of sheet of 1/2” for the chines. I still have some 3/4 and 1/2 left over.


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## Plantation

Looks killer so far!


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## 17376

Thanks man


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## Guest

Looking good Travis, can’t wait to see the finished product!


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## 17376

Thanks man!! I’m excited


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## permitchaser

Looking good, can't wait to see it on the water.


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## 17376

Couple of months and it will be water ready.


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## Guest

If you were this side of the peninsula I’d jump in and help. I think you got it under control though!


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## 17376

You’re only a couple hours away!! Haha


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## Guest

Right, with probably the most famous speed trap on the planet between us!


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## 17376

Waldo


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## yobata

Travis Smith said:


> View attachment 28854
> View attachment 28855
> Moving right along. However with NE FL weather I don’t see my self glassing anytime this week.
> 
> It took me 4 sheets of 3/4” Divinycell and about a half of sheet of 1/2” for the chines. I still have some 3/4 and 1/2 left over.


Wow Travis! That looks great! I have a couple of questions for you:
1. I remember there being strikes on that skiff, are you adding those and if so before or after the outside skin is laid up?
2. It looks like you are using Gorila Glue to join the strips of foam core, can you talk about the thinking here? Are you at all worried about the bond? Would it have been a better idea to use an epoxy? Or does it even matter because you will use a (poly if I remember from earlier) resin later on that will bond with the skins on the laminate?

Thanks! And again, looks great so far!!


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## millerrep

Man your moving on this. Did you switch your core to Divinycell, you mentioned Airex early on. What density is the Dcell. Have you decided on the resin, expoxy ? Poly / Vinyl ester ? I know it is a ways out, but what are plans for paint? Thinking I need to do one or two of these! I'll say it again great project, a one off sister ship of a Whipray!!


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## 17376

Thanks man!!
1. I will add them afterwards. Once the hull is completely glassed I will glue them on.

2. Anytime you are joining two things, you don’t want a “dry” joint. Using the gorilla glue filled this joint. There is really no pressure on the joints as there is 4 layers of glass over it on each side.


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## 17376

I found a really good deal at fiberglassflorida on Divinycell. I couldn’t bypass it. I used H80 3/4 inch. CM called for 5/8” H80. So a little thicker. I ordered 15 gallons of epoxy and 50 yards of glass from bateau today. I don’t mind spending the money, I just like doing it right. I have a fear of polyester though I know lots of boats are built with it. 

I will be running awlgrip paint. That is the best on the market. I will probably spray it this go around. I had some issues with the primer last time that left dimples and I had to resand everything.

As far as the deck paint I will use awlgrip and like a silica to sprinkle on it.


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## Pole Position

I am in total agreement using the epoxy....it is a small part of the total cost of the boat---what the hell is an additional $400.00 plus/minus ---and is a far superior product.

Again, congrats on the progress--really impressive.


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## 17376

That’s how I looked at it. I’m hoping I only use around 15-16 gallons.

Thanks man


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## 17376

I got almost the whole boat skimmed with thickened epoxy. I was filling cut marks, screw holes, and the gaps between the pieces where they meet.


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## yobata

What's the layup schedule for the outside skin?


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## 17376

4 layers of 10oz


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## kamakuras

Why 4 layers of cloth vs 3 called for in the plans if I may ask? And damn you are fast!


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## 17376

The plans I received were blurry so I asked Chris and that’s what he stated to do. Maybe the three layers is with cedar strip and not foam core possibly


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## 17376

If your plans are clear can you forward them to my email?


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## kamakuras

Travis Smith said:


> If your plans are clear can you forward them to my email?


Yeah man I will take pictures and send them to you. Mine are clear. His lamination schedule on the plans is 2 layers on the entire hull and a third only to the upper chine radius. I am going to just do three on the entire hull to simplify things. Also for transom I am doing two layers of 1708 and tabbing into the hull. Inside I am doing a panel of 3/4 Coosa for added strength and two more layers of 1708 on the transom. But that is overkill according to Chris. Chris' lamination schedule per the plans is for 5/8 core using epoxy resin. 

Your build is super clean by the way and your experience shows. Hopefully my hull #2 will be as.nice.


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## 17376

[email protected]

Thank you.

What does it call for transom thickness? 1 1/2 of Divinycell?

Why 1708? That isn’t compatible with epoxy, correct?


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## yobata

Travis Smith said:


> [email protected]
> 
> Thank you.
> 
> What does it call for transom thickness? 1 1/2 of Divinycell?
> 
> Why 1708? That isn’t compatible with epoxy, correct?


1708 or 1208 is 17oz biax or 12oz biax with a 8oz ChopStrandMat (1.5oz CSM in that standard of weighting). The CSM has styrene which dissolves with polyester resins (and I believe vinyl ester as well). It is not required for epoxy and will only make you use much more epoxy resin to wet it out without adding strength...


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## 17376

That’s what I was thinking


yobata said:


> 1708 or 1208 is 17oz biax or 12oz biax with a 8oz ChopStrandMat (1.5oz CSM in that standard of weighting). The CSM has styrene which dissolves with polyester resins (and I believe vinyl ester as well). It is not required for epoxy and will only make you use much more epoxy resin to wet it out without adding strength...


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## kamakuras

It was recommended to my be the guy at us composites and is what the guys doing the cedar conchfish used. I was also concerned about the amount of resin for wetting it out.
Chris said for the transom to use a layer of 3/4 core inside and out for the transom. I have had so many different opinions on the lay up Chris included it gets confusing.


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## yobata

kamakuras said:


> It was recommended to my be the guy at us composites and is what the guys doing the cedar conchfish used. I was also concerned about the amount of resin for wetting it out.
> Chris said for the transom to use a layer of 3/4 core inside and out for the transom. I have had so many different opinions on the lay up Chris included it gets confusing.


Most people using composite cores are using polyester or vinylester resins, so their go to recommendation is the 1708. Feel free to call up Boat Builder Central (looks like that is the supplier you are going with) and ask. Jacquez from BBC/Bateau explained it to me about 3-4 years ago... Its more expensive than 17oz biax and you end up using more epoxy resin without adding any strength. *IF* you are using poly/vinyl ester resins, it is required because the styrene helps with lamination


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## 17376

It’s more less to get thickness not strength. I also don’t know why he would rather use cloth that biaxial since biaxial is so much stronger. Maybe I could add a layer of biaxial instead of cloth.???any ideas?


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## yobata

I am by no means a naval architect/engineer/designer, and would like to hear a lam schedule from someone that is. But if it were me, I would email Chris and ask. I would imagine something closer to: (inside out) core, 10oz cloth, 12oz biax, then 6oz as the outermost layer. And for less fairing/sanding, maybe use some peel ply. I would also run 6" 12oz biax tape at the chines/keel/transom areas.


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## Rick hambric

yobata said:


> I am by no means a naval architect/engineer/designer, and would like to hear a lam schedule from someone that is. But if it were me, I would email Chris and ask. I would imagine something closer to: (inside out) core, 10oz cloth, 12oz biax, then 6oz as the outermost layer. And for less fairing/sanding, maybe use some peel ply. I would also run 6" 12oz biax tape at the chines/keel/transom areas.


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## 17376

I am definitely running a little extra glass on those parts. I have a roll of left of biaxial tape that I will be utilizing. I was able to get two layers of 50” on it tonight. I will sand it tomorrow and get another layer on it.


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## yobata

Rick hambric said:


> View attachment 29036


Rick, I believe this schedule you posted is for poly or vinyl ester resin, not the epoxy that Travis is using..


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## Guest

Yobata, I believe you are right. Travis, if you have any doubts on your layup schedule do email CM like Yobata suggested. He can adjust for epoxy, biax vs cloth, ect... at the end of the day he wants to see his designs be the best they can be and I’m sure he has an answer for you.


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## 17376

I washed the boat today with soap and water to get rid of any contaminants. Once it dries I will sand and finish the other layers of glass.


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## jonrconner

Looks amazing, so cool to be building one of CM’s newest designs!
JC


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## 17376

Yea it is. Im excited to have it done.


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## 17376

Final layer of glass!!


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## Tigweld

I like the hair dryer


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## Hardluk81

Damn, wish I would have found this thread sooner. I would have brought by some beer or something in exchange for letting me watch how you are doing some of this. Nice work!


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## millerrep

Sweet, that piece of glass could cause butterflies when mixing the fist batch. Great stuff!!


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## Guest

Looking good! Almost time for the longboard though! Lol!


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## 17376

Tigweld said:


> I like the hair dryer


Thanks, I like using it to get the glass to lay down in some spots. It helps a little.



Hardluk81 said:


> Damn, wish I would have found this thread sooner. I would have brought by some beer or something in exchange for letting me watch how you are doing some of this. Nice work!


I wish you would have too!! Don’t worry I’ll buy the beer this weekend! I’ll let you help me out with the long board. Hahaha


millerrep said:


> Sweet, that piece of glass could cause butterflies when mixing the fist batch. Great stuff!!


I know!! It all laid down very well. And of course I decided to lay an extra piece of glass on the bottom to the bow. Guess what...it didn’t want to lay nicely like the others. But got it pretty good. Always my luck.


Boatbrains said:


> Looking good! Almost time for the longboard though! Lol!


I can’t wait!! Hoping for paint in two weekends!!

Don’t worry I’ll invite everyone over for the “cookout”. The longboards will be ready!!


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## Guest

Travis Smith said:


> Thanks, I like using it to get the glass to lay down in some spots. It helps a little.
> 
> 
> I wish you would have too!! Don’t worry I’ll buy the beer this weekend! I’ll let you help me out with the long board. Hahaha
> 
> I know!! It all laid down very well. And of course I decided to lay an extra piece of glass on the bottom to the bow. Guess what...it didn’t want to lay nicely like the others. But got it pretty good. Always my luck.
> 
> 
> I can’t wait!! Hoping for paint in two weekends!!
> 
> Don’t worry I’ll invite everyone over for the “cookout”. The longboards will be ready!!


If you get plenty of takers on that, HF has a decent LB pretty cheap! Seriously, man you are smokin on the build and boat is lookin great!


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## 17376

Boatbrains said:


> If you get plenty of takers on that, HF has a decent LB pretty cheap! Seriously, man you are smokin on the build and boat is lookin great!


Thanks man!! 

I have a Hutchins Air Straight Sander!! Work smarter not harder.


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## Fritz

Travis I am amazed and intimidated by how quick you are getting this skiff built! Looks fantastic so far, a home built Whip that's gonna be better then the original, I can't tell you how cool that is to me.


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## Pole Position

Have you decided if you're going to install a console or keep it as a tiller steer?

Also, what fiberglass schedule did you end up going with?

As others have said, you are smoking on this build; at this rate, you're gonna blow that initial 3 month estimate all to hell.


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## Chris Beutel

Travis, that is amazing how quickly it went from some strips of foam to a hull! If you need any help laying glass during the day I'd love to get some experience. Thanks for posting all the pics.


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## Bluwave

Amazing work! This makes me want to build one.


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## 17376

Fritz said:


> Travis I am amazed and intimidated by how quick you are getting this skiff built! Looks fantastic so far, a home built Whip that's gonna be better then the original, I can't tell you how cool that is to me.


Thank you so much! It does look good so far. A lot of sanding left ahead of me. I don’t think it will be better but it will be awesome!! CM is a hell of a builder.


Pole Position said:


> Have you decided if you're going to install a console or keep it as a tiller steer?
> 
> Also, what fiberglass schedule did you end up going with?
> 
> As others have said, you are smoking on this build; at this rate, you're gonna blow that initial 3 month estimate all to hell.


I haven’t quite decided if it’s going to a side console or tiller. I am definitely going without a floor and maybe a center fishbox cooler with seat. I went 4 layers on the bottom and 3 on the sides. I think I will have it done well before then.


Chris Beutel said:


> Travis, that is amazing how quickly it went from some strips of foam to a hull! If you need any help laying glass during the day I'd love to get some experience. Thanks for posting all the pics.


Thanks man! I will definitely get you to come over and get some hands on.


Thanks everyone for everything!!


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## 17376

Bluwave said:


> Amazing work! This makes me want to build one.


Thanks!! I encourage everyone to build one hahah


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## kamakuras

How many gallons of epoxy did you use?


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## 17376

Right at 4.5 gallons


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## 17376

First nice day in a couple weeks! I was able to get a coat of fairing on! The first coat I put on a little “runny”. It helps to get down into the cloth indents.


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## 17376

First round of fairing


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## Farmer brown

Looks good.
How many layers are going on the inside?
I would love to get a copy of those plans


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## Pole Position

Farmer brown said:


> I would love to get a copy of those plans


http://chrismorejohn.com/conchfish-16-plans-for-sale/


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## Farmer brown

Thanks pole position


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## EdK13

Travis Smith said:


> First round of fairing
> View attachment 29799


NICE!


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## No Bait / Lures Only

Travis Smith said:


> Ok thanks!! Have you used us composites resins? Or anyone else?


I used us composites epoxy and 1708 for a pirogue repair project, worked better than West.


Travis Smith said:


> Ok thanks!! Have you used us composites resins? Or anyone else?


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## No Bait / Lures Only

very impressive build, this should crank up some for new foam core builds...


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## trekker

Travis Smith said:


> View attachment 29235
> Final layer of glass!!


Great build my friend. I use US composites epoxy. Good stuff. Down south you may want the slow hardener.

In this pic, are you cutting the overlap piece off or did you wet that out?

Asking because I had all kinds of fun trying to get the glass on my front to lay down. Just wondering if that is a technique I dont know about.

Thanks.


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## 17376

I ended up using marine epoxy from Bateau.com. I leave it hanging as it seems to hold it down better. I only wet it out to the bottom of the core. I also use a hair dryer on the glass and it seems to help too. I don’t like using cloth, I prefer biaxial.


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## 17376

Second round of fairing


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## Guest

Lookin good!


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## yobata

@Travis Smith looking so good!!

1. When did you remove the screws holding the foam to the frames? Before the skim coat of thickened epoxy? And if so, when you removed the screws how did the foam stay in place, just the gorilla glue??

2. How did you radius your corners at the chines, etc in preparation to the cloth? Did you use a router or just sanded by hand?


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## Guest

I think he plans on just pulling the screws through the core and then filling the holes afterwords.


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## 17376

I removed all the screws after the gorilla glue dried. It stayed in place fine. I used a belt sander and I hit all the edges. And now that I am almost done with fairing, I sharpen the edges.


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## jonny

Man you are killing it! What layup are you going with on the inside? By choosing epoxy over other resins. Saves you from using CSM. But did you contiplate a outer layer of CSM for sanding/fairing?


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## 17376

Thanks man!! I will be running three to four layers inside too. I will be running some 12 oz biaxial for the transom. I have now decided to run a 50 probably. And full deck as the majority of people say a Whipray rides better heavy.


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## trekker

Travis, did these plans require lofting?


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## makin moves

Haven't seen any updates. The way your going your probably out fishing on it.


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## 17376

I’m not quite sure what you’re considering lofting. Sorry for my stupidity. Maybe someone else can chime in. 

The weather here north Florida has been crazy lately. I haven’t messed with the boat in a while. I have probably 6”s if standing water in my back yard. It has rain everyday and is really humid. I was able to put on a little fairing today. It’s almost ready for primer.


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## jonrconner

Lofting is just expanding the planned lines to full size.
JC


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## trekker

Travis Smith said:


> I’m not quite sure what you’re considering lofting. Sorry for my stupidity. Maybe someone else can chime in.
> .



Basically, how did you build ur forms? Did it come with full size patterns to trace, or did you get measurements to make them.

Thanks.


----------



## 17376

trekker said:


> Basically, how did you build ur forms? Did it come with full size patterns to trace, or did you get measurements to make them.
> 
> Thanks.


You lay out measurements basically connect dot to dot


----------



## Rick hambric

jonrconner said:


> Lofting is just expanding the planned lines to full size.
> JC


What Chris typically sells are scaled drawings. 1.5”=1ft you then draw out to full size and connect the dots. Or use a cad software and plot the work points then take that to a cabinet shop to have the stations cut out on a cnc table.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Wow, Travis you are moving right along. I’am amazed you are taking the time to answer all these questions.
Let me say to you all that Travis is doing an excellent job. He’s getting it done quickly because he’s just working on it instead of just dreaming about building one.
There are lots of ways to build Skiffs like this using epoxy or just plain ole cheap as you can buy polyester resin.
Epoxy is great because it does not smell like polyester resin and it can have a slower working time.
Rick Hambric is miss leading you all with the info that you can put polyester resin, on top of epoxy. NEVER SHALL THE TWO RESINS EVERY MEET! Don’t ever do this. The other printed stuff he showed is just a copy of my emails to him answering a shitload of questions just like yobata.
And after all the time spent still no Skiff to show for it. Geeze come on and just get out in the shop and start on something.
The cloth layups can be just like I show on the plans. I don’t like 1708 and all the tri axels because you get lots of little air bubbles in the weave and they are to me not as strong as a good 10 oz. cloth layup. Try laying up a one off like Travis showed with the cloth in 1708. A nightmare and a whole lot more resin.
I will give a cautionary note here, all people that sell fiberglass supplies are salesman. They want to sell you stuff. Be careful as they are not going to build the Skiff, you are. Look at the plans. Listen to the guy who designed the Skiff. His name is on the line not the salesman’s.
Now as to my plans. Yea they are old school plans. That means they are like all the others from the past 150 years. What you get is numbers that you have to layout on your own using your brain, your hand and a pencil. It takes 6th grade math, English knowledge, to draw up the stations. Having cad patterns takes all the fun out of actually learning the process of figuring out the treasure map that is called a set of plans. 
I am very happy to see a guy like Travis getting it done. There are a dozen people building to this design right now along with a whole bunch more building to my other designs up to 37’. All it takes is just basic skills with the mind set that it’s just one day and step at a time. Yes and some $ to buy the materials. Sites like this can give great inspiration and shared knowledge. But beware, some guys have never had glue on their hands but will quote you the gospel according to them.
One last note here, traditionally when buying a set of plans you are purchasing the right to build one vessel from those plans. Any more and you have to pay the designer another plans fee again for each vessel built.
I have not written this on my plans as I want to see a fleet of these skiffs out there instead of a few extra $.
On my blog site....hogfishdesign.wordpress.com You can see most all my designs and I feel most anyone can find a way to download them and get your own info there for FREE. I have posted all this stuff to hopefully inspire others to get going and design and build their own boats. Remember, what I say is just an opinion based on my past work and experiences. Does not mean it’s the way to go. Lots of ways to build a skiff.


----------



## Rick hambric

Rick hambric said:


> What Chris typically sells are so-called drawings. 1.5”=1ft you then draw out to full size and connect the dots. Or use a cad software and plot the work points then take that to a cabinet shop to have the stations cut out on a cnc table.


 Scaled not so called. Just re read my post and realized I was autocorrected damnit! @Chris Morejohn , I have been slowly putting the prices together. I buried my mother today and all things in my life have taken a backseat for the past month. I’ll be in touch sir.


----------



## Guest

Rick, sorry to hear about your Mother. I dread that day in my life.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Rick hambric said:


> Scaled not so called. Just re read my post and realized I was autocorrected damnit! @Chris Morejohn , I have been slowly putting the prices together. I buried my mother today and all things in my life have taken a backseat for the past month. I’ll be in touch sir.


Rick, my mom passed away 4 months ago, my condolences and I feel your loss. I was only correcting you on the epoxy thing. Trust me nothing will stick to epoxy other than epoxy if prepaided properly.
Otherwise, you know you want to do it. Just do it. You already have enough info. Get going, it only starts with a jig and then some stations, a then...... best of everything my friend


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## Rick hambric

Travis, didn’t mean to derail... back to your awesome conchfish!!!!!!


----------



## PropGunOne

Chris Morejohn said:


> One last note here, traditionally when buying a set of plans you are purchasing the right to build one vessel from those plans. Any more and you have to pay the designer another plans fee again for each vessel built.
> I have not written this on my plans as I want to see a fleet of these skiffs out there instead of a few extra $.
> On my blog site....hogfishdesign.wordpress.com You can see most all my designs and I feel most anyone can find a way to download them and get your own info there for FREE. I have posted all this stuff to hopefully inspire others to get going and design and build their own boats. Remember, what I say is just an opinion based on my past work and experiences. Does not mean it’s the way to go. Lots of ways to build a skiff.


I wondered about this. They’re not always clear, but there’s enough information on some of these drawings to easily reverse-engineer your own skiff from. Glad to see that’s by design.

But that said, there’s nothing like having your own copy of the plans framed on the wall while your skiff is out on the water.


----------



## 17376

@chrismorejohn

Wow, thanks Chris for all the kind words. I will always take time to respond to questions. I am always willing to help anyone with anything I can. As Chris said take it one day at a time. Due to rain in north Florida, I haven’t got much done in the past month. But now that the weather is a little better each day I take 30 minutes to an hour and sand. The sanding can be a PItA. But do a little at a time to not get burned out. The fairing is almost done. I am currently building the chines up. 

I am using pvc trim board screwed into the side of the boat. Then I mix thickened wood flour epoxy to build the chine.


----------



## bryson

I get excited whenever I see this is a new post -- thanks for sharing everything you've been doing with us. I think that sometime in the next year I'm going to start a build, and it very well might be this boat built in a very similar manner (foam and epoxy), so this is very helpful.

Thanks again, and keep up the good work!


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Travis, here’s what I use to Fair the hull in minutes. That is all the flat surfaces. You still have to long board the radiuses. I always start with the core having a big radius so as the glass builds up its till easy layup. Then you can put any type of radius on. I use 30% silaca and the rest glass bubbles. I never use wood dust as it will swell later with moisture. The flat pad is the same size as a sheet of sand paper. I glue it on with quick dry contact adhesive to a 1/8” sheet of ply that is glued to a 7” foam pad. Use a slow buffer or what I use is a variable speed grinder. Nothing faster than 2500 rpm.
The whole thing to think of when building like this is that the putty does all the work. Don’t ever grind raw glass. Just sand and fair putty. As they say “putty and paint will make the devil look like a saint”.


----------



## bryson

Chris Morejohn said:


> Travis, here’s what I use to Fair the hull in minutes. That is all the flat surfaces. You still have to long board the radiuses. I always start with the core having a big radius so as the glass builds up its till easy layup. Then you can put any type of radius on. I use 30% silaca and the rest glass bubbles. I never use wood dust as it will swell later with moisture. The flat pad is the same size as a sheet of sand paper. I glue it on with quick dry contact adhesive to a 1/8” sheet of ply that is glued to a 7” foam pad. Use a slow buffer or what I use is a variable speed grinder. Nothing faster than 2500 rpm.
> The whole thing to think of when building like this is that the putty does all the work. Don’t ever grind raw glass. Just sand and fair putty. As they say “putty and paint will make the devil look like a saint”.


That looks heavy duty! So the paper is directly on the ply and the ply is glued to a regular foam pad for the grinder/buffer?


----------



## Pole Position

Chris Morejohn said:


> Travis, here’s what I use to Fair the hull in minutes......


Somebody would do the entire free world a favor posting a youtube on how to do this.....just sayin"


----------



## 17376

Thanks Chris!! I will build one of these and do a step by step process of it. That is if Chris don’t mind. 


And Chris to correct myself earlier. I am using 404 west systems filler. But I’m not sure that is technically a wood flour or what it is? Maybe you know.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

bryson said:


> That looks heavy duty! So the paper is directly on the ply and the ply is glued to a regular foam pad for the grinder/buffer?


It’s easy to make. Buy a 7” foam pad that fits a 5/8” arbor. That’s standard thread size for polishers, buffers and such. Now buy a sheet of door skin. That’s 1/8” ply you buy to replace your kicked in door in your house. It’s about $12.00 a sheet. The rest you can use for patterns. Now cut this to 8-1/2”x11” or what ever the sand paper size is. Now glue this onto the flat side of the foam pad using epoxy glue. Make sure it’s centered.
Now to glue the sheets of sand paper on you buy feathering disc adhesive in spray form or just tube and smear around form. Spray or goo around on the ply sheet. Slap the sheet of sandpaper a few times to it till it’s starting to stick. Bingo it’s stuck on. Now when using this set up what the corners of the ply as they dissapear when it’s turning. I wear jeans when sanding. Lay it flat and let it Coast over the hull. You can tilt it just a little as the ply will bend. Put on plenty of putty, like a nice cake. It will fly off real fast and level. Once you see glass move on. 
I use it on round hulls, convex ones like in the picture and can Fair a CONCHFISH hull in less than 2 hours time. Takes way longer to apply the putty.
I use 3M glass bubbles for all my fairing. The least expensive and the best. Use silaca to bulk up a bit or when on vertical surfaces. Stay away from WEST products as they are set up to make $. You can buy enough Glass bubbles in one box to build and fair 3 Skiffs for less than $200.00. Going the boutique WEST route you would be paying $1,500.00 for the same amount.
I have used this set up since 1978.
Wear a full facemask if you have one unless you have big fans.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Today finds me with good WiFi in Bocas Del Toro Panama. I’am on my way sailing slowly to the Canal to transit in September.
I have been able to read and see all of the pictures on this post. I will shed some info here to hopefully clear up some questions.
To draw up the station molds on my plans you need to know how to use a tape measure, an angle for drawing out a square grid, a bendy batten, some finish nails, hammer and a pencil. You just draw up a square grid and as Travis said you then connect the dots... which are the measurement points.
Look up Wooden Boat magazine for all the ways to ( pick up the lines from your drawing) it’s easy and very rewarding when you put it all together.
Once you understand how all this goes together you will start to look at all the other boats hull shapes and start to think of what will work for your own needs.
When I drew up the Plans for the CONCHFISH and the LITHIUM skiffs it was a few years ago and all guys were talking about was building in stitch and glue and in wood, ply. That’s why they are drawn out this way.
BUT you can build in core the same way. Just use a bit thicker core 3/4”. 
I like to build with cloth because of the weight and costs you save in resin use. Because Cedar is very stiff you don’t need that much glass. Same thing with core.
PLEASE LISTEN HERE. If building a full deck on any skiff that is glued and glassed to the stern you don’t have to build the stern up like it’s a production skiff. The deck glued and glassed on holds the stern in place. Most Production skiffs are just stuck together so they can get cracks and flexing issues at the stern joint. Not a problem with one-off skiffs.
Good consistent glass work is way stronger than a bunch of extra glass. Think one piece. Think of how strong the ends of a beer can are. It’s still the same thickness through out the can.
These CONCHFISH home builds should weigh with a full deck and floor somewhere around 325 lbs if built in core.
In cedar they will weigh a bit more. A typical HB skiff or a Gordon built skiff will weigh close to 485-500 lbs in the Whipray model if lucky today. A Chittum skiff would be very happy to weigh anywhere near what your homebuild will weigh.
What would be great is if you all put a site together on this site or Instagram, Facebook or so to help each other in buying materials and sourcing. There are lots of deals out there to be had on Craig’s list and so on. You just have to be ready to buy. 
You can stretch this design out to 17-1/2’ by just adding another station in. You don’t need to make the rounded stern. Its what I drew in 1997 so I put it in the plans.
Anyone that wants a free set just look up on my blog and print out the info.
Once you understand how to draw stations from my hull lines drawings then you can build to all the drawings that have numbers on them. You just look up my details for reference.
I charge the plans fee because I end up answering Lots of questions to the builders and this is my fee. It’s been great getting to know the builders but I’am hoping you all can share enough from what you are learning so I can stop with the email questions and just post my designs for free.
It’s very rewarding to see all the interest, involment, and energy that’s happening with this little skiff design evolution that I first drew up in 1993. Thanks


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## 17376

I built a sander today that Chris told us about. Let me tell you, this thing is bad ass! I used a harbor freight polisher. I didn’t have any plywood so I used a 1/2” piece of divinycell. I am going to try and attach a video of the minute I used it. It removed a lot of material.


----------



## permitchaser

Travis Smith said:


> I built a sander today that Chris told us about. Let me tell you, this thing is bad ass! I used a harbor freight polisher. I didn’t have any plywood so I used a 1/2” piece of divinycell. I am going to try and attach a video of the minute I used it. It removed a lot of material.


I'd wear a mask


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## 17376

I always wear a mask. I was gonna talk in the video but didn’t. It was only for a few minutes with the fan blowing


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## Pole Position

Dayum that thing moves a lot of material quickly. Was that the blended epoxy / wood filler, and what grit were you using?


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## 17376

It was fairing material 410 West. I was using 80 grit.


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## DuckNut

Travis Smith said:


> I always wear a mask. I was gonna talk in the video but didn’t. It was only for a few minutes with the fan blowing


Who cares about talking, you can edit your voice in afterwards.

Your lungs are far more important.


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## Guest

Like DN said, Travis please protect yourself! This is something that hits home with me, ppe is always a must! We want to see your next builds on here! You only get one set of lungs!


----------



## Muice

Chris Morejohn said:


> Anyone that wants a free set just look up on my blog and print out the info.
> Once you understand how to draw stations from my hull lines drawings then you can build to all the drawings that have numbers on them. You just look up my details for reference.
> I charge the plans fee because I end up answering Lots of questions to the builders and this is my fee. It’s been great getting to know the builders but I’am hoping you all can share enough from what you are learning so I can stop with the email questions and just post my designs for free.
> It’s very rewarding to see all the interest, involment, and energy that’s happening with this little skiff design evolution that I first drew up in 1993. Thanks


I’ve been modeling up this hull in CAD in my free time based off of the drawings posted on Chris’ website for an upcoming build (I’ve been given an ultimatum that I can’t start on the build until I finally finish rebuilding our house). So once I finish up this damn shoe moulding and painting cabinets/doors I’ll be starting. 

Since Chris awesomely seems cool with RE’ing the boat off of what hes posted on his website I would be willing to share the file (with Chris’ approval of course) with those interested. No timeline on when that will happen as I’m juggling a toddler, a busy work schedule and rebuilding a house. Just wanted to throw that out there. 

Thanks Chris for sharing your knowledge and inspiring future generations of boat builders with your plans. I’ve finally got the fire under my ass to finish this house because I can’t wait to start this build. 

OP, beautiful work so far man. Can’t wait for you to enjoy her.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Muice said:


> I’ve been modeling up this hull in CAD in my free time based off of the drawings posted on Chris’ website for an upcoming build (I’ve been given an ultimatum that I can’t start on the build until I finally finish rebuilding our house). So once I finish up this damn shoe moulding and painting cabinets/doors I’ll be starting.
> 
> Since Chris awesomely seems cool with RE’ing the boat off of what hes posted on his website I would be willing to share the file (with Chris’ approval of course) with those interested. No timeline on when that will happen as I’m juggling a toddler, a busy work schedule and rebuilding a house. Just wanted to throw that out there.
> 
> Thanks Chris for sharing your knowledge and inspiring future generations of boat builders with your plans. I’ve finally got the fire under my ass to finish this house because I can’t wait to start this build.
> 
> OP, beautiful work so far man. Can’t wait for you to enjoy her.



Please feel free to share what you end up with the world. The more self built skiffs out there the better I feel. I am presently cruising on my sailboat in Panama till November and then I will be sailing out into the Pacific en route to BC Canada via Easter Island and on up. This trip will take my wife and I till next July. So I will not be taking the time to answer emails except to the people who have bought plans. With all these great builds being shown online all these guys are showing the world howits done. It’s great.
For me going back through the Panama Canal out into the pacfic after 43 years is a new lease on life. I will be looking for new boats to dream of and will be leaving my flats Skiff world to this side of the canal and you all.
I will say it here one more time, all the stuff on my blog is there to use for free. 
Have fun on your build.


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## Guest

Chris, You are such an inspiration and kindred spirit. May the seas be fair and your adventures be grand! Looking forward to reading about them, thanks for sharing your knowledge and adventures with is all!


----------



## DuckNut

Muice said:


> I’ve been modeling up this hull in CAD in my free time based off of the drawings posted on Chris’ website for an upcoming build (I’ve been given an ultimatum that I can’t start on the build until I finally finish rebuilding our house). So once I finish up this damn shoe moulding and painting cabinets/doors I’ll be starting.
> 
> Since Chris awesomely seems cool with RE’ing the boat off of what hes posted on his website I would be willing to share the file (with Chris’ approval of course) with those interested. No timeline on when that will happen as I’m juggling a toddler, a busy work schedule and rebuilding a house. Just wanted to throw that out there.
> 
> Thanks Chris for sharing your knowledge and inspiring future generations of boat builders with your plans. I’ve finally got the fire under my ass to finish this house because I can’t wait to start this build.
> 
> OP, beautiful work so far man. Can’t wait for you to enjoy her.


Why don't you get Chris a copy so he could sell them for those who want to have their pieces CNC cut?

It would be a great gesture and maybe he will keep designing hulls for us.


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## 17376

DuckNut said:


> Why don't you get Chris a copy so he could sell them for those who want to have their pieces CNC cut?
> 
> It would be a great gesture and maybe he will keep designing hulls for us.


I believe he already has it in CAD. Nathan Shawl I believe does all of that for him. 

Why do people want to go the CAD route? That takes the “building” out of the boat. It makes a person think when all you have are a set of measurements that you have to lay out on a piece of mdf. 

Chris offering his plans for free on his site just shows what kind of person he is. He isn’t in the business for the money like many are. Thanks for that Chris!!


----------



## Muice

Travis Smith said:


> Why do people want to go the CAD route? That takes the “building” out of the boat. It makes a person think when all you have are a set of measurements that you have to lay out on a piece of mdf.


The CAD route has a lot of benefits and I don’t think it takes the “building” out at all. Just like how people learn differently, some people visualize differently. I dont have an artistic bone in my body yet I got a rough 3D rendering of the boat drawn up in CAD in about 30 minutes - so it helps me visualize the end goal. It also helps me space plan my garage to show my wife that she can in fact still park in the garage during the build! More than likely I will loft the stations but as I progress I’ll have something to compare to.

Also just to clear things up, if I do provide CADs I would never even consider emailing @Chris Morejohn with a question about his hull and expect him to answer without paypal’ing him the $250 first. (ETA -I don’t want that to sound retaliatory to Chris’ post above, the intent of this comment is that it would be assanine for one to expect support on a build the designer has not seen any profit from) 

I like Chris’ idea of developing a community around the design that can support itself.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Muice said:


> The CAD route has a lot of benefits and I don’t think it takes the “building” out at all. Just like how people learn differently, some people visualize differently. I dont have an artistic bone in my body yet I got a rough 3D rendering of the boat drawn up in CAD in about 30 minutes - so it helps me visualize the end goal. It also helps me space plan my garage to show my wife that she can in fact still park in the garage during the build! More than likely I will loft the stations but as I progress I’ll have something to compare to.
> 
> Also just to clear things up, if I do provide CADs I would never even consider emailing @Chris Morejohn with a question about his hull and expect him to answer without paypal’ing him the $250 first. (ETA -I don’t want that to sound retaliatory to Chris’ post above, the intent of this comment is that it would be assanine for one to expect support on a build the designer has not seen any profit from)
> 
> I like Chris’ idea of developing a community around the design that can support itself.


The CONCHFISH plans that I have been selling come in two forms. One you get my original hand drawn hull lines and offsets for how I wanted to originally build the Whipray except I have now changed the upper spray rail making it wider. I drew in the stern as originally drawn being curved. 
Then Nathan Shawl did the plans on his computer drawing it up and fairing it out. It’s hard for computers to fair my hull designs out because my visions go from one type of hull shape aft and change to another going forward. This I see in my head and because I have built lots of boats I know from instinct and experience what shapes I can get away with.
Nathan and I have worked closely going back and forth with HIS hull lines of my hull lines to figure out how to get the computer to work with what I know can be had in reality and what IT sees in mathematical fiarm.
Remember computers are just calculators. They don’t know a break through shape when it gets put into them. They have to have a good computer technician help them fair in my crazy transition lines.
Now all my past designs up till I met Nathan Shawl I just drew up and lofted the stations and laid them out on a strong back jig and started laying battens over them. The worst I would be out might be 1/8-3/16” here and there in my transition area in the curve of the bilge. This is typical boat building one off. I would then just Fair the stations quickly by eye and start to plank the boat. To do this with a planked hull takes me 2-1/2 days to be ready to glass. 
Now if it’s to be a biggger boat say 30-45’ I draw the hull lines up old school full size on the floor and fair with long battens. This is called lofting up the hull lines.
What all this means is with my CF plans you are getting two hull shapes to choose from but are very close in shape. 
Now I feel that it’s great to get anyone into building and if using a computer makes it happen then fantastic. It’s the same thing with boating today. I grew up using a sextant for navigating. Just think of what it’s like having to keep track of what you think you are doing going through the water all the time. Keeping a written logbook. No VHF when I was young, just a compass and your wits. 
When the GPS came along it changed my life. Makes things so much easier and less stressfull.
So yes please carry on with what ever gets you going.
I am presently designing and finishing up new designs for 5 new skiffs for five different companies that are all different. They will be coming to light in the market this coming year. I make a few $ from doing this. I can do this work on my boat anywhere. 
What is killing me is when some guys that buy my plans after 5-8 email questions back and forth, when they get the plans the first thing they ask is “what do I do now?”.
I won’t have the time to answer these emails anymore this coming year because I will be sailing off the grid. So it would be great for others to pass on their info and I will get to be out of the loop. I will keep on posting all the hull shapes that my clients give me permission to show and everyone will either way see the refinements of my designs as they go along.
Where I am anchored now is the world of a thousand Pangas and Cayucos. The Cayucos are built in one piece of a hollowed out tree and are 30-40’ long. They go along really well with a 15 hp on the stern. No wake and really smooth running. But you have to have lots of room when you go in a turn and they weigh a ton. The Pangas do all the tourist hauling back and forth. They run along great, are dry but pound like crazy.
You know when ones coming by the spanking noise. I would love to redesign their mid section forward.
So many boats, so little time...


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## Canebrake51

Fair winds! Makes me want to build a boat!


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## Tx_Whipray

This is my favorite thread on the board right now...


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## Guest

Any updates Travis? We need pics!


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## 17376

I removed it from the mold to sand off the over hanging fiberglass. Now I can put plywood under it to create the rail around it. Here it is before I sanded some of the glass off. It is literally raining everyday when I get off.


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## GoGataGo52__20

Lookin good man


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## Guest

Travis Smith said:


> View attachment 34294
> I removed it from the mold to sand off the over hanging fiberglass. Now I can put plywood under it to create the rail around it. Here it is before I sanded some of the glass off. It is literally raining everyday when I get off.


Looking good, just keep at it! I know the feeling with the darn rain and am feelin your pain! The weather kooks are saying we might have a wet el nino winter too!


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## Pole Position

Geezus, that has some huge spray rails. Did the sander work as well as you hoped?


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## 17376

Yes it worked amazing... hopefully no spray inside!!


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## Guest

Travis, what’s the weight like so far? Does she feel light when your moving it around?


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## 17376

Boatbrains said:


> Looking good, just keep at it! I know the feeling with the darn rain and am feelin your pain! The weather kooks are saying we might have a wet el nino winter too!


I will be done by September. I will be jobless after the 31st. I will be working on it 8 hours a day. I hope it isn’t a rainy fall/winter. I have to fish every day. Or maybe I will go south and fish awhile.


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## 17376

I would say around 60 lbs. my girlfriend and I picked it up and flipped it on mid air without touching the ground.


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## Guest

Nice! Hopefully the job situation is by choice!


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## Guest

When ya get her done, bring her to this coast and you can put some rash on her bottom!


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## 17376

Boatbrains said:


> Nice! Hopefully the job situation is by choice!


Been in law enforcement I was 19. I was done and burnt out. I want to do my own thing. I have always wanted to do charter fishing so I am in the process of getting all of my things done for that. I will have the boat done soon to do that. I am sure it will be hard at first to get my name out there but I pray it will eventually take off.


Boatbrains said:


> When ya get her done, bring her to this coast and you can put some rash on her bottom!


Where are you at? I am definitely down. We’re planni to fish the keys in October.


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## Guest

First let me just say thank you for your service!
Guiding will be slow taking off, but once you get goin you should do just fine. I can tell from this site that you’ve got the personality for it!
I am in Homosassa, fish out of Ozello mostly! I avoid the hoopla on the Homosassa, Crystal River, and Chass as much as possible! Boatless at the moment, which sucks BAD... but that will change soon enough lol!


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## 17376

Thanks man! Hopefully it will kick off by spring/ summer next year. I have scalloped over there but never fished there. I will definitely come over there and try it. I’ll let you know when!


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## Guest

Sounds awesome Travis!


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## 17376




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## bryson

Looks great! Got any pictures of laying up the rail/lip around the sheer? I know you mentioned putting some ply under it -- did you just let your glass tape run up the edge a little to bond it to the hull?


----------



## 17376

bryson said:


> Looks great! Got any pictures of laying up the rail/lip around the sheer? I know you mentioned putting some ply under it -- did you just let your glass tape run up the edge a little to bond it to the hull?


I put plywood down with packing tape all over the top of it and laid glass 3” on plywood and the rest up the side of the boat. Now that is easily faired in. 

I didn’t want to do it with the rest of the glass because I was afraid of it getting bubbles in it as I was laying the complete skin. So I opted this way. When I flip the boat over, the over lapping glass inside will go over the lip.

I also chose not to make a channel on this part as I will make a channel lip on the deck that will hang over this. Once deck and all is complete it will be glued together and boat flipped over so I can access under the gunnels.


----------



## Guest

Looking good Travis!


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## 17376

Thanks man


----------



## Pole Position

Travis...now that you've gotten pretty deep in the build, I was wanting to get your thoughts on how the process of a foam build vs S&G compared, especially on the difficulty. I'm guessing the S&G has to be easier given that it is so forgivable, albeit being heavier and the inability to easily make some contours ( ??? ). Also, do you think the foam build uses significantly more epoxy?

Anyhow, no need for a 10 page essay, but I would appreciate any insight. Thanks in advance...


----------



## G McC

Looks great Travis! This thread has got me thinking about trying a build with my son. He's been getting really interested in the robotics club at school. Hit me up once you are up and running as a guide.


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## 17376

I actually like working with the foam more than s and g. It seems easier to me. You can shape it very easily. I am at about 7-8 gallons right now. That’s with the outside glass and fairing. I don’t think it uses more in a sense. It only uses more because of having to put more layers of glass due to strength. I won’t go back to wood I don’t believe.


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## 17376

G McC said:


> Looks great Travis! This thread has got me thinking about trying a build with my son. He's been getting really interested in the robotics club at school. Hit me up once you are up and running as a guide.


Thanks man!! That would be a great project for you two!! It’s fun to do. I will as soon as I’m done.

And I frequently fish in Sebastian area so anyone who wants to fish and test the boat can anywhere between here and there.


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## G McC

I'm in St Augustine, you're welcome to come down and fish with me on my boat while your building


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## firefighter813x

I just read all ten pages and am stoked to see the completed project. Very cool!


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## 17376

Thanks man!! Hope to be done by September with the hull


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## Cut Runner

Just read it all. Awesome


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## 17376

Thanks


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## 17376

I have the frames just laying in there. I will lay those out on divinycell this week and tab them in when I lay the glass. It sanded down very easily. I think I will make my cockpit around 6’ long. Run 6 rod tubes. 3 each side. I haven’t decided yet on how wide of gunnels I want to run. Any suggestions?


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## Guest

Uh oh, she’s right side up!


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## 17376

Fiberglass and bulkheads to be tabbed in this week. Once I cut out the bulkheads, I will fiberglass both sides before putting them in. I prefer doing them before they go in.


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## Chris Morejohn

Looks great Travis, 
I will say for everyone looking at the inside here. The gaps are no big deal. Fill them with thicker putty. Fair off, vacuume out well, then resin coat. Let cure, then lay your glass in.
I always glass my bulk heads first. I do the whole sheet at One time. I can use all the pizza pie pieces somewhere down the road. Also I never used Coosa board for builkheads. I understand it easy as it’s stiff. But it’s heavy. 
I always glassed bulkheads with 1 layer of 7oz cloth on each side. They are only in compression. Anymore glass is a waste of $ and time. Tab in with 2 layers of 1-1/2 oz. matt or 1 layer of the biaxel scraps you have.
Remember any weight you save you can use with gear and stuff. These skiffs like you are building can weigh about 300-325 lbs finished. A 40hp, 2 guys, gear and stuff and you will be going along at 29 + mph.

As for buying a 2 stroke in the Bahamas, call Spanish Wells Marina. They are the Yamaha dealer there. Get a price and ask them the cost to ship to you on the freight boat or if they can get a fishing boat to drop to your in Ft. Lauderdale. They cost the same throughout the Bahamas as it’s one family that has the dealship.


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## Guest

Travis, I also glass my bulkhead, stringer, and floor/deck boards before cutting and installing. I like it because I have better control over the layup this way. I have a small 5x9 layup table that I use to layup the full sheets on and I lay them up glass on table, core on glass, weight on core and then flip and repeat. This gives me a nice smooth level surface to work with.


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## yobata

Boatbrains said:


> I have a small 5x9 layup table that I use to layup the full sheets...


Those dimensions can only mean one thing!!


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## Guest

yobata said:


> Those dimensions can only mean one thing!!


Thanks Yobata, now I gotta watch balls of fury!


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## Guest

It’s actually a sheet of 5/8 tempored glass, I have 2 trying to come up with a way to suspend the second one so I can lay up both sides of a board at one time and just lower the heavy ass sheet of glass on top for weight and finish!


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## Chris Morejohn

I always bought my sheets of core by the box. I kept a sheet of 3/4” ply on top to keep the sheets flat and not trying to look like a potato chip. I would slide out a sheet and lay it on top of a 4’x8’ sheet of Formicad plywood that was waxed and perfectly flat. I glassed on top of this and hand rolled out air. When just cured I would flip and glass the opposite side. These sheets would end up perfectly flat. Very light and extremely strong. I would make up 7-8 in a day and these I would use for the build. Please just think that all bulkheads supports and such are only in compression. Why add weight. When you glass and glue the hull and deck together it’s like the end of a beer can. Very strong. When I see a 1/4” of glass on a Beavertail bulkhead I see total ignorance of structural engineering and building. A huge weight, cost loss. Just think outside the box. The bottom matters, the sides less so and inside it’s just the joints-connections. These skiffs if built to my plans will weigh 150 lbs less than a Chittum Skiff at $56,000.00. They are the same size. When you are done launching your CF16 go out and buy a new car with the savings.


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## Guest

Chris, this is pretty much the same I lay mine up. I have the extra sheet of glass and just figure I’d use it to speed up production without sacrificing the quality!


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## Chris Morejohn

Boatbrains said:


> Chris, this is pretty much the same I lay mine up. I have the extra sheet of glass and just figure I’d use it to speed up production without sacrificing the quality!


Sounds great, always many ways to skin a cat.


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## Hardluk81

If it was mine I would make the gunnel line up with the flat part of the floor. How wide would the cockpit be if you did this?


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## yobata

@Hardluk81 has a good point, and I believe you said no false floor/sole on this build, so it makes perfect sense to stop you from the chine cutout


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## Chris Morejohn

Makes no difference, once the hull is glassed and the two bulkheads are in place the boat will not twist. Make the cap from 3”-18” Wide it does not matter for strength. All it needs is to be glued all together.
I would suggest to measure a Whipray or such or go by my plans. What made these skiffs perform so well is they were all glued and glassed up as one piece. At the time in 1997 all the competition were riveting or screwing there decks onto the hulls. Totally different now since the Whipray came to light.the more you add the stiffer she will be as long as it’s all glued together. A early Waterman is not as rigid as a Whipray because of the missing floor and such. Still no big deal. It’s all about what you need. I like a cut off Clorox bottle as a bailer and no floor. So...


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## Guest

Amen on the clorox bottle bailer brother!


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## 17376

Hardluk81 said:


> View attachment 36312
> If it was mine I would make the gunnel line up with the flat part of the floor. How wide would the cockpit be if you did this?


That makes perfect sense. I think it’s around 48” between the two chines.

I will definitely be glueing it together as Chris said.


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## GoGataGo52__20

Man lookin sick!


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## 17376

Thanks


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## Pole Position

How many sheets of Divinycell do you think you will end up using?

Did you put the strakes on before flipping, and if so, how did you attach them?

Thanks in advance--the build looks great


----------



## Rick hambric

Gents, for you guys that are thinking about building one of chris’s skiffs or want to join the conchfish fleet, one of The guys building one started this as a q&a for the other CF builders. It was just done so it’s waiting for people to add to it! 

http://morejohnbuilders.freeforums.net/


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## mwolaver

Travis, your question on gunnels: I have an early 16' waterman with a full cap, including "walk around gunnel" cover boards. It has a very finished and classy look. After having fished a number of times in an earlier model with no mid-ship cover boards, I will say it is far easier to get rods in and out and does not affect the fishability at all. Walking down the gunnel on one of these boast is not the same as on a full-sized skiff. I would go so far as to say, it is almost never done. So, if your lay up in the hull is stiff enough already, I think you should consider not having full sized cover boards. My $.02. Great looking boat! Mark


----------



## Rick hambric

Throw some plywood on it, fish it a few times in a backwater pond and then make the deck how you like. It won’t be pretty, but it will give you a good idea of what you can and can’t do.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Ri


Rick hambric said:


> Gents, for you guys that are thinking about building one of chris’s skiffs or want to join the conchfish fleet, one of The guys building one started this as a q&a for the other CF builders. It was just done so it’s waiting for people to add to it!
> 
> http://morejohnbuilders.freeforums.net/


rick,
Thanks for posting this. I have signed up. This looks to me the best way for me to help others along. I can just go to this site and explain my methods there. Just bear with me as I’am not around WiFi all the time.


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## Guest

Chris, you da man dude!


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## 17376

I got all the interior crevices and holes filled with thickened epoxy. It is really for glass.


----------



## Monty

Looks awesome. I'm envious. Good luck on the guiding in the future and THANK YOU for your service in law enforcement.


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## 17376

Thanks man!! Im praying it all works out.


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## 17376

@Chris Morejohn can you please explain to me the process you build a fiberglass tank? What type of resin? I am using MarinEpoxy boatbuildercentral. Thanks man


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## 17376

And what size of tank?


----------



## Hardluk81

Hey Travis when do you normally work on this thing? I’ll be working out at the mayport navy base for a while. I could come lend a hand after work if you need. I also have a 25hp yami w/ SRA3 prop if you want to test it. I think your gonna want a little more hp though.


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## 17376

I try to work on it in the morning time since it’s cooler. Any day usually since I’m not working right now. I might try it once I’m done. Thanks for the offer.


Hardluk81 said:


> Hey Travis when do you normally work on this thing? I’ll be working out at the mayport navy base for a while. I could come lend a hand after work if you need. I also have a 25hp yami w/ SRA3 prop if you want to test it. I think your gonna want a little more hp though.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Travis Smith said:


> @Chris Morejohn can you please explain to me the process you build a fiberglass tank? What type of resin? I am using MarinEpoxy boatbuildercentral. Thanks man


This is how I build a fiberglass tank in polyester resin or epoxy.
I build a 4x8’ sheet of flat plywood and wax it. Or you can use an old sliding glass door or a good sheet of glass. Wax em up smooth. Use mold wax. I then lay up 4 layers of 1-1/2 oz matt hand rolled out and finish with a 10 oz. cloth. When cured I peel this sheet off the waxed ply- glass.
Her you then cut out your sheets like you would an aluminum tank. Make a pattern first out of Door skin or card board.
Now you fillet together the whole tank from the inside leaving the top on last. Before adding the top I glass tape the engine with a 4” Wide tape so 2” is on each side. I use 2 layers 1-1/2 oz matt.
Grind and clean up the inside. Now you can coat the inside with a coat of epoxy resin if built in epoxy.
If using polyester you need to use vynelester resin or resin that’s made for fuel.
When the top of the tab
No is fitted I install bronze through hulls through it and glass in a copper tube for the pickup.
I then place on the top of the tank and glass all the edges with 4 layers 1-1/2 oz. matt.
Once all is done you can close off the fills and vents and pressure test for leaks.
You must do perfect glass work, no air bubbles. All neat. Especially the corners.
I have over 40 tanks still being used built by me from 40-800 gals that were built 38-42 years ago.
Look up WEST Systems book on boat building. They give good directions for. Building fuel tanks in epoxy and plywood. There are other ways but I will describe them offline.


----------



## 17376

Chris Morejohn said:


> This is how I build a fiberglass tank in polyester resin or epoxy.
> I build a 4x8’ sheet of flat plywood and wax it. Or you can use an old sliding glass door or a good sheet of glass. Wax em up smooth. Use mold wax. I then lay up 4 layers of 1-1/2 oz matt hand rolled out and finish with a 10 oz. cloth. When cured I peel this sheet off the waxed ply- glass.
> Her you then cut out your sheets like you would an aluminum tank. Make a pattern first out of Door skin or card board.
> Now you fillet together the whole tank from the inside leaving the top on last. Before adding the top I glass tape the engine with a 4” Wide tape so 2” is on each side. I use 2 layers 1-1/2 oz matt.
> Grind and clean up the inside. Now you can coat the inside with a coat of epoxy resin if built in epoxy.
> If using polyester you need to use vynelester resin or resin that’s made for fuel.
> When the top of the tab
> No is fitted I install bronze through hulls through it and glass in a copper tube for the pickup.
> I then place on the top of the tank and glass all the edges with 4 layers 1-1/2 oz. matt.
> Once all is done you can close off the fills and vents and pressure test for leaks.
> You must do perfect glass work, no air bubbles. All neat. Especially the corners.
> I have over 40 tanks still being used built by me from 40-800 gals that were built 38-42 years ago.
> Look up WEST Systems book on boat building. They give good directions for. Building fuel tanks in epoxy and plywood. There are other ways but I will describe them offline.



Thanks Chris!! 

Couple questions

1. Is west systems epoxy gas proof? Or is it a specific epoxy from them?

2. Can I wax or use tape on my bulkhead(between the two and floor of boat) where I want the tank and use them as a mold? 

3. What psi do you test it to?


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Travis Smith said:


> Thanks Chris!!
> 
> Couple questions
> 
> 1. Is west systems epoxy gas proof? Or is it a specific epoxy from them?
> 
> 2. Can I wax or use tape on my bulkhead(between the two and floor of boat) where I want the tank and use them as a mold?
> 
> 3. What psi do you test it to?


Travis,
I would suggest asking WEST technical team about how their epoxy works with gas. Should be fine is my guess. 
I used to build my tanks in in fiberglass like I show in the plans. It’s very easy that way. You end up getting a sub floor too. Lots of space in the bow. If you want to go that way let me know and I will explain it here and the other site in detail.
I can’t remeber what psi the coast guard said to go to. Ask an aluminum guy. He will know.
For me it’s just get the sides or the lid to bulge and hold it there and put soapy water around looking for leaks.
Once it’s built they are pretty bulletproof, especially if you go with the version I drew on the plans.
At the last Miami boat show the Coast Guard officer in charge of all new designs stopped and talked to me at the Piranaha Noatworks booth and I asked him all about using fiberglass as fuel tanks. He said it’s not a poproblem with them. Just has to follow their guidelines.
To me everyone would build one my way if they could relie on their workers to do a good job. Not easy today.


----------



## Poomay

A question for the professionals... for this project, would the cost/reward benefits be worth it to substitute a layer of Kevlar or carbon fiber for the hull? Would you put this down as your first layer then cloth the other 3 layers for hull?


----------



## 17376

Chris Morejohn said:


> Travis,
> I would suggest asking WEST technical team about how their epoxy works with gas. Should be fine is my guess.
> I used to build my tanks in in fiberglass like I show in the plans. It’s very easy that way. You end up getting a sub floor too. Lots of space in the bow. If you want to go that way let me know and I will explain it here and the other site in detail.
> I can’t remeber what psi the coast guard said to go to. Ask an aluminum guy. He will know.
> For me it’s just get the sides or the lid to bulge and hold it there and put soapy water around looking for leaks.
> Once it’s built they are pretty bulletproof, especially if you go with the version I drew on the plans.
> At the last Miami boat show the Coast Guard officer in charge of all new designs stopped and talked to me at the Piranaha Noatworks booth and I asked him all about using fiberglass as fuel tanks. He said it’s not a poproblem with them. Just has to follow their guidelines.
> To me everyone would build one my way if they could relie on their workers to do a good job. Not easy today.


Good afternoon Chris,

Thanks for the reply back. I’m not sure if you have read the other site post I posted. I will be transferring all of your tips and tricks from this thread to the other forum. I am going to break it all down into separate post so people can go there for more technical questions etc.

I just got off the phone with west systems. They said to use 105 and 206. They said with non-ethanol gasoline their resin and Hardeners are great. Do not ever make a mistake and put ethanol gas in the gas tank because it will begin to degrade the tank. They recommend after building the structural part of the tank to coat the inside with 5 to 6 coats of resin in order to protect it more. 

Chris if you wouldn’t mind explaining it in detail for us that would be great. You can either email me and I will post it or posted here on this site and I will copy it to the other site. We all really appreciate the help you gave us.

Thank you,
Travis


----------



## 17376

Another update guys, I just got the email back from Jeff at bateau.com

I use their marinepoxy a lot. He contacted technical support for me. They stated that their epoxy It is fine for building gas tanks. They gave about the same directions as West did. They said to be sure to let it post cure for at least seven days. They also said not to put ethanol gas in the tank.


----------



## Guest

Great update Travis!


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Poomay said:


> A question for the professionals... for this project, would the cost/reward benefits be worth it to substitute a layer of Kevlar or carbon fiber for the hull? Would you put this down as your first layer then cloth the other 3 layers for hull?


Kevlar is a sales tool. It’s not needed in skiffs. It was always an option when I built at HB and all my other builds. 1 layer of 10 oz Kevlar cloth is all I ever put in the outside laminate of my HB skiffs. Truth is it has a bit more impact resistance than a layer of eglass but to me it’s not worth it. But everyone wanted to pay the extra $ for it. It takes about 4 yards for a hull bottom. It has to have a layer of cloth or better matt laid over it.
You don’t want to be abraiding it because it will just puff out and wick water in.
If you hit something real hard your hull will puncture no problem with it. Unless you do multiple layers.
I could gone and on. Not for me but if you want it than go ahead. ANY SKIFF YOU SEE WITH KEVKAR ON THE INSIDE OF THE HULL BUILD IS WASTING MONEY, YOURS. You don’t get impacted from the inside of your hull. So stupid.

Now carbon is a very stiff fiber. If used properly it can make things very stiff and stronger for the same thickness in layers at a greater cost.
No Skiff needs it anywhere ever unless you want to pay for it.
The HB Whiprays I built 17-19 years ago had 1 layer of Kevlar in the hull bottom only, carbon on top of the center stringer and sometimes around the deck by the hatches. I bought a bunch of carbon for nothing from a guy that just walked in the door selling stuff hence I used it here and there.
All these skiffs were built using basic polyester resin and then vynelester resins all hand laid up. Then vacuum 
Bagging around hull # 55. They are way lighter than most of today’s skiffs and have lasted quiet well with good owners over the years 

My last build was the 18’ Lithium Skiff I built in Islamorada last summer. I built her in vynelester resin with a solid glass hull. All very low tech. Total weight of fully rigged skiff with a 50 hp tiller was 920 lbs.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Travis Smith said:


> Good afternoon Chris,
> 
> Thanks for the reply back. I’m not sure if you have read the other site post I posted. I will be transferring all of your tips and tricks from this thread to the other forum. I am going to break it all down into separate post so people can go there for more technical questions etc.
> 
> I just got off the phone with west systems. They said to use 105 and 206. They said with non-ethanol gasoline their resin and Hardeners are great. Do not ever make a mistake and put ethanol gas in the gas tank because it will begin to degrade the tank. They recommend after building the structural part of the tank to coat the inside with 5 to 6 coats of resin in order to protect it more.
> 
> Chris if you wouldn’t mind explaining it in detail for us that would be great. You can either email me and I will post it or posted here on this site and I will copy it to the other site. We all really appreciate the help you gave us.
> 
> Thank you,
> Travis


Travis, 
I will write it up to you with drawings by tomorrow night. You always need to let everything gas off for days.. that’s why I have several projects going ll the time so I wait for the off gassing. Will cause blister later from the gasses trying to escape. 
I would always want a glass tank if I had the skill to glass it up. It’s basically you need to not have air bubbles and you need to be neat. I will explain in ad nausem detail.


----------



## Poomay

Chris Morejohn said:


> Kevlar is a sales tool. It’s not needed in skiffs. It was always an option when I built at HB and all my other builds. 1 layer of 10 oz Kevlar cloth is all I ever put in the outside laminate of my HB skiffs. Truth is it has a bit more impact resistance than a layer of eglass but to me it’s not worth it. But everyone wanted to pay the extra $ for it. It takes about 4 yards for a hull bottom. It has to have a layer of cloth or better matt laid over it.
> You don’t want to be abraiding it because it will just puff out and wick water in.
> If you hit something real hard your hull will puncture no problem with it. Unless you do multiple layers.
> I could gone and on. Not for me but if you want it than go ahead. ANY SKIFF YOU SEE WITH KEVKAR ON THE INSIDE OF THE HULL BUILD IS WASTING MONEY, YOURS. You don’t get impacted from the inside of your hull. So stupid.
> 
> Now carbon is a very stiff fiber. If used properly it can make things very stiff and stronger for the same thickness in layers at a greater cost.
> No Skiff needs it anywhere ever unless you want to pay for it.
> The HB Whiprays I built 17-19 years ago had 1 layer of Kevlar in the hull bottom only, carbon on top of the center stringer and sometimes around the deck by the hatches. I bought a bunch of carbon for nothing from a guy that just walked in the door selling stuff hence I used it here and there.
> All these skiffs were built using basic polyester resin and then vynelester resins all hand laid up. Then vacuum
> Bagging around hull # 55. They are way lighter than most of today’s skiffs and have lasted quiet well with good owners over the years
> 
> My last build was the 18’ Lithium Skiff I built in Islamorada last summer. I built her in vynelester resin with a solid glass hull. All very low tech. Total weight of fully rigged skiff with a 50 hp tiller was 920 lbs.[/QUOTE
> 
> Exactly the response I was looking for...advice and opinions are much appreciated, thanks again.


----------



## Poomay

Exactly the response I was looking for...advice and opinions are much appreciated, thanks again


----------



## 17376

@Chris Morejohn thanks man! 

How well do you think a 30 Suzuki will push it?


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Travis Smith said:


> @Chris Morejohn thanks man!
> 
> How well do you think a 30 Suzuki will push it?


With two guys 26-28 mph loaded. With one guy light 31-32 mph. Wide open


----------



## 17376

I would be happy with that!


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Here’s how I built my glassed in tanks. No drawings needed I hope.
First off Coast Guard rules state that no part of the fuel tanks side can be made up of the hull skins.
This is how I deal with the rule.
First off i get a five gallon bucket of water and fill it up. I then pour into the bow area slowly to not get water verywhere the bucket repeating till I get the amount of fuel in gallons in the bow area. So for you say 20 gals. Now you have a small vee shaped pond of water in your bow. When calmed take a felt pen and just at the waters edge trace it all the way around the pond.
Now bail out and dry off.
Next grind your inner hull laminate well above the felt drawn waterline up say 5”.
It’s got to be a good secondary bond here. Vacuume our well.
Now wax all the inside of the hull real well everything below the felt tips water line. The whole area where the fuel will be. Do not buff out like waxing a mold. Just say. 4 coats of wax everywhere.
This will be your separation of your soon to be laid up fuel tank from the hull skin.
Now lay in 4 layers of 1-1/2 oz. matt one on top of the other rolling out real well with a hard grooved roller to get all the air bubbles out. These layer need to go all the way up to the 5” above the waterline felt tip pen mark.
This will be your fuel tank. This skin is your fuel tanks sides. The top 5” will be it’s attachment hold down flange to your hull skin.
Now lay up the tanks lid with the same amount of matt. 4 layers of 1-1/2 oz. matt on a flat waxed sheet of glass or Formicaed sheet of ply. 
When cured peel off then add in your pickup,vent and fill through hulls and tube.
Make sure all this fits the hull side as close as can be. 
You can add a baffle if you want but it’s a small tank. I wouldn’t bother.
Now lay the lid down and its edge should fit right along the felt pens waterline. Or close to it.
You can fillet the whole top in using Silaca to thicken the resin you will be using. 
Now glass this in by using 10” Wide 1-1/2 oz. matt tape going along the whole edge.
Hard roll this very well so mo air bubbles. Watch the three corners to make sure they are rolled out very neatly.
Voila !
Now you have a fiberglass fuel tank that is not part of the hull except it’s flanged attachment point.
Tanks I have built this way from 1983 onwards have never failed and are in perfect shape.
It’s easy and if built in polyester cheaper than aluminum.
I will include a picture of a boat I built in 1984 for Carl Navarre. Pres. Bush used it every year to fish the Keys.
It’s still in the same family since I built it.


----------



## 17376

@Chris Morejohn thanks for the directions. Is it OK to use 1.5 oz mat with epoxy?


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Travis Smith said:


> @Chris Morejohn thanks for the directions. Is it OK to use 1.5 oz mat with epoxy?


Yes but it’s not as easy as polyester resin. The matt makes it so there’s no air bubbles.


----------



## 17376

Ok Chris thanks for the reply!!


----------



## 17376

So I have a little dilemma! I bought 1/2” divinycell for the deck thinking it would be ok. Conchfish 16 told me that 1” is what they will be using for the deck. So since I have a few pieces of 1/2” leftover, I am going to put in a subfloor by doubling the 1/2” and glassing it. So my question is... to make it self bailing, should I run a drain from the cockpit floor out the back of the boat and plug it inside? Or should I run a drain to the bulge area and let the bulge take care of pumping it out of water gets in there while out fishing.? If the answer is number one, do I need a bilge area?


----------



## Guest

Travis, I would do the cockpit drain out the back and still have a small bildge area for a pump just in case! JMHO though!


----------



## 17376

Ok.. so the plan is to come forward about 30” with a bulkhead. That will be the back deck with a sealed hatch. Cockpit floor with drain out the back. The cockpit will be about 6’ long then the front deck and sealed compartment starts. What would the purpose of the bulge be? (Hole under sub floor, compartment drains)


With that thought in mind... if the cockpit fills up with 10” of water, exp it’s level with the water line of the river. It’s not going to bail bc it’s now equal right?!?!?! Start bailing by hand? 


My thought of running it into the bulge from the sub floor, I would have the bulge pumping it out and by hand. Just picking y’alls head...


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Travis Smith said:


> Ok.. so the plan is to come forward about 30” with a bulkhead. That will be the back deck with a sealed hatch. Cockpit floor with drain out the back. The cockpit will be about 6’ long then the front deck and sealed compartment starts. What would the purpose of the bulge be? (Hole under sub floor, compartment drains)
> 
> 
> With that thought in mind... if the cockpit fills up with 10” of water, exp it’s level with the water line of the river. It’s not going to bail bc it’s now equal right?!?!?! Start bailing by hand?
> 
> 
> My thought of running it into the bulge from the sub floor, I would have the bulge pumping it out and by hand. Just picking y’alls head...


I will draw up a sketch and explain what the options are. Look at an original Whiprays setup. Stern well with a stern drain. If your floor is the right height you can Drain the cockpit into the stern well with the stern plug out and the boat will self bail at rest forever. When you are aboard you have to plug the stern well and then rely on the stern bilge pump. 
There are other ways to do it.
Chittum Skiffs has a similar set up that is way more complicated and the way they execute it can lead to major leak problems if not installed and built properly.
I will get back with the options, very busy at the moment


----------



## Guest

Chris Morejohn said:


> I will draw up a sketch and explain what the options are. Look at an original Whiprays setup. Stern well with a stern drain. If your floor is the right height you can Drain the cockpit into the stern well with the stern plug out and the boat will self bail at rest forever. When you are aboard you have to plug the stern well and then rely on the stern bilge pump.
> There are other ways to do it.
> Chittum Skiffs has a similar set up that is way more complicated and the way they execute it can lead to major leak problems if not installed and built properly.
> I will get back with the options, very busy at the moment


Even better, let the man that designed it show us!


----------



## Smackdaddy53

I wish my Maverick cockpit drained into a bilge sump pan so it would catch most of the sand and debris and not get as much in my hull or better yet split the drain into two compartments with drain plugs to the outside so no debris gets in the hull at all.


----------



## 17376

Thank you guys for the replies! 


Chris Morejohn said:


> Look at an original Whiprays setup. Stern well with a stern drain.


Thanks Chris I look forward to seeing a sketch of it! And if I knew of a original Whipray in Jacksonville I would look at it. I have never even seen a Whipray in Jacksonville.


----------



## 17376

Got all the glass laid!! I got a few bubbles in it!! Not too many though!


----------



## bryson

Looks great!


----------



## Guest

Looking good man!!! Won’t be long!


----------



## 17376

Thanks guys


----------



## Guest

How many layers did you end up doin on the inside? Still 10oz cloth?


----------



## 17376

3 layers bottom two sides


----------



## 17376

I spoke with Chris and he said that the 1/2” core that I bought will be just fine for the deck so back to the old and cheaper plan.. no Liner!! 


So I cut out and fiberglassed a drain in. I will sand off the excess glass that is sticking above the drain. I am going to lay a piece of fiberglass on a piece of glass. Let it cure and cut it out to lay over the drain area to seal it. Then glass over it..


----------



## Guest

No liner= no added weight!


----------



## 17376

Correct


----------



## bryson

Travis Smith said:


> View attachment 37460
> 
> I spoke with Chris and he said that the 1/2” core that I bought will be just fine for the deck so back to the old and cheaper plan.. no Liner!!
> 
> 
> So I cut out and fiberglassed a drain in. I will sand off the excess glass that is sticking above the drain. I am going to lay a piece of fiberglass on a piece of glass. Let it cure and cut it out to lay over the drain area to seal it. Then glass over it..


Looks good! Is that channel just cut through the core to the outer glass, so it's about 3/4" deep?


----------



## 17376

Yes it’s through the core but it didn’t go through the outer glass.


----------



## Guest

Travis, has Chris got back with you on the self bailing splash well design yet?


----------



## 17376

He has not. However since I am going back to the old idea I don’t need it now. 

I am still going to have a motor well and that channel I cut will drain to there. I will have a plug and bilge pump there


----------



## 17376




----------



## Guest

Uh oh, you’ll be fishen soon!


----------



## bryson

Looking great! Not sure why, but dropping bulkheads in really makes it look like a boat! What's the thickness?


----------



## trekker

Travis, whats the beam on this beast?


----------



## 17376

trekker said:


> Travis, whats the beam on this beast?



I don’t have exact measurements but I’d say around 68”


----------



## Chris Beutel

Looks great Travis. With the bulkhead in there it really gives me an idea of your layout.


----------



## 17376

Yea it will be a simple layout! Your boat is coming along too!!


----------



## 17376

She is so light!! The other half and I lifting it for you all! She also got rod holders today. They will get glued in tomorrow. And inside will get fairing.

Here’s the video


----------



## Guest

She is so light!! The other half and I lifting it for you all! She also got rod holders today. They will get glued in tomorrow. And inside will get fairing.

I’d say that’s pretty darn light! Have you watched Chris’ videos on the wet test yet? I think you’ll be pleased with the performance results so far!


----------



## 17376

Boatbrains said:


> I’d say that’s pretty darn light! Have you watched Chris’ videos on the wet test yet? I think you’ll be pleased with the performance results so far!


Yes I did!! Pretty awesome!!


----------



## Guest

Travis Smith said:


> Yes I did!! Pretty awesome!!


Just gives ya a little more somethin to look forward to! All that work is gonna pay dividends with this build I do believe!


----------



## 17376

I am excited to finish it. Almost there. Hopefully start the deck this week


----------



## GoGataGo52__20

Man that thing is gonna fly, how many hp?


----------



## 17376

I will be running a 30 or 40!! I haven’t completely decided yet.


----------



## GoGataGo52__20

True 30 would be lighter, but if you go with a 40 might as well go for the 50 it’s the same weight...


----------



## 17376

That’s my dilemma! I built the boat light to have a light set up! After seeing one pushed 25mph yesterday with a 20. I think a 30 would push mine around 31-32


----------



## GoGataGo52__20

Mine isn't the lightest but I get around 25 with 2 people and with the wind by myself 28 with a 30 hp etc, but that's also with trim tabs, and a jackplate to get the most out of it I can.


----------



## el9surf

Just read all 14 pages. All I can say is wow. I'm amazed to see such a good looking skiff coming together so quickly.


----------



## 17376

Thanks man!!


----------



## mtoddsolomon

el9surf said:


> Just read all 14 pages. All I can say is wow. I'm amazed to see such a good looking skiff coming together so quickly.


Same, I read through this last night after talking to @bryson about it yesterday. I really want to build one someday.


----------



## 17376

mtoddsolomon said:


> Same, I read through this last night after talking to @bryson about it yesterday. I really want to build one someday.


I think everyone should build one haha!! It’s fun!! The hell with these production boats.


----------



## bryson

Travis Smith said:


> I think everyone should build one haha!! It’s fun!! The hell with these production boats.


And if this particular skiff isn't for you, then he's got several other awesome designs! I plan on building the Conchfish around the beginning of the year, depending on how things go with my first kid due in October. I've got a bigger flats boat too, but if I were building one for my primary boat, it would be the Lithium/10wt design, or maybe the Jackfish/Piranha. I can lose hours looking through those design posts.


----------



## 17376

I really like the lithium.. I didn’t see that those were for sale until after I bought the Conchfish


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Here’s some more pictures to feed the fire. Not to take away from Travis, who is moving along quite well considering you are building in your spare time.
I posted on the other thread page about a guy in fla that will be offering custom decks a such.
The custom designs I do for clients like Piranha boats ,the Isla Marine 10 Weight, STIK Skiff and others are one’d outright by them. I like to do a design and then not worry about royalties later. 
I do have updated design plans for some of my past designs having changed things I felt could be improved on from the years since they were launched. These include all y past HB designs.
Enjoy some build pictures,


----------



## KurtActual

Man, this build is epic. I would really love to build my own, but have very basic tools and skills, plus zero knowledge or understanding of fiberglass work.


----------



## Pole Position

[QUOTE="Chris Morejohn, post:
I do have updated design plans for some of my past designs having changed things I felt could be improved on from the years since they were launched.
[/QUOTE]

Has Nathan completed the updated Slippery Dick plans?


----------



## 17376

It’s very easy man!! Just wet out some resin and throw glass on it lol


----------



## hillcharl

I may have missed this, but what are you going to do for nonskid on the decks?


----------



## 17376

I will sprinkle non skid over wet paint


----------



## 17376

Started the deck!


----------



## Guest

Whatcha using for your layup table and temp forms?


----------



## 17376




----------



## 17376

I used flat panel doors. I got them for 4.99 a piece at a local store. They have like a Formica top. And I am using pvc trim board for the lip.


----------



## 17376

Cheapest plywood I found was about 17 so this was much cheaper


----------



## trekker

Are you using epoxy to attach the pvc board pieces?


----------



## 17376

trekker said:


> Are you using epoxy to attach the pvc board pieces?


Those are just temporary boards. Once the fiberglass dries to all of this and the core is all glass in, the deck will separate from all of this.


----------



## Guest

Trekker, think temporary mold.


----------



## Guest

Travis, If you are still plannin on building a second skiff with your jig... might be time and $ ahead to just go ahead and lay up the second deck now. It’d be quicker than setting up the table again and laying it all out again! Just a thought.


----------



## 17376

I like your thinking!! I don’t think I will build another Whipray. If I do it would be a 17.8 or whatever it equates to or a marquesa if CM has plans to it.

Or if anyone wants to buy one hahahahaha but they would have to more their bulkheads to where mine are.


----------



## EvanHammer

Couldn't figure out the series of holes until you explained they are doors


----------



## trekker

Travis Smith said:


> Those are just temporary boards. Once the fiberglass dries to all of this and the core is all glass in, the deck will separate from all of this.


So you are not coring the deck. Traditionl lay up?

Unreal.


----------



## EvanHammer

trekker said:


> So you are not coring the deck. Traditionl lay up?
> 
> Unreal.


He's probably laying down glass, then core, then glass. Then pulling it from the mold, flipping it over, and bonding it to the hull.


----------



## 17376

Evan is correct.. I will lay down two layers of 10oz then 1/2” divinycell then another layer of 10oz. Remove if from the mold and glue it the boat hull and frames.


----------



## Guest

Trekker, the reason for building like Travis is, is it makes for a whole lot less fairing! It is also easier to lay out guttered hatches and such and make it all look good when building this way.


----------



## 17376

Two hours in this morning and I’m almost done with all of the putty in the corners


----------



## Indoman

Travis Smith said:


> Evan is correct.. I will lay down two layers of 10oz then 1/2” divinycell then another layer of 10oz. Remove if from the mold and glue it the boat hull and frames.


I know this lay up schedule is time tested, but it still seems crazy to me that all it takes to support a full grown man on a deck is 1/2” core and 3 layers of glass. But then I’m also amazed at what little material is involved in tabbing in a transom. Just seems like the weight and torque of an outboard would rip it right off. “The whole is greater than the sum of it’s parts”.

Love watching this build!


----------



## Guest

It’s all about understanding the materials you are using! Most people and companies find it easier to over build than to just do it correctly. Travis is doing it right! He is listening to the designer that has proven the layup schedule works for his design. Would I do it differently, probably... but I have my own schedules in my mind that I know work also! A fiberglass/ resin matrix creates some very strong products!


----------



## trekker

Go pic heavy on this deck build if you can. Pretty sweet.


----------



## Guest

If you check out Chris Morejohn’s blog Trekker, he has a one off deck build tutorial on there with pretty good details that a novice can understand.


----------



## 17376

Still not finished with it


----------



## Guest

Awesome! You probably know this, but Use a little water when you finish smoothing the radiouses and they’ll lay down real real nice so almost no fairing needed when popped outta mold.


----------



## 17376

Yes I have been using water however this isn’t smoothing out like playdo.. I also rounded the wood I used for the gutters.


----------



## 17376

First coat of PVA. I will do two more coats tomorrow then I will start glassing


----------



## Guest

Looking great man!


----------



## 17376

I was going to tape it like you told me but I ran out of tape. So the heck with it..


----------



## Guest

Travis Smith said:


> I was going to tape it like you told me but I ran out of tape. So the heck with it..


I know that feeling all too well lol!


----------



## Guest

Your family and friends all ok? Just heard of a mass shooting up your way bud!


----------



## Guest

All, please do not derail Travis’ thread with comments on my last post!!!


----------



## 17376

Boatbrains said:


> Your family and friends all ok? Just heard of a mass shooting up your way bud!


Thanks for asking yes that’s about 5 miles from my house.

As far as I know everyone is good my immediate family is fine.


It’s Just in time for the Governor election so it will all be about gun control


----------



## 17376

How many coats of PVA do you think I should use? I have never used it before


----------



## Guest

I do 2-3 coats from a paint gun, very thin coats though. I also use release wax on the wood before the pva the wax helps fill pores and grooves.


----------



## 17376

I filled in the crevices I found in the wood prior to the PVA however I did not use wax on it do you think I will be OK with three coats of PVA on it?

Are used a spray bottle For the PVA and then I even it out with a brush


----------



## Guest

After you pull your part from the mold give it a couple soap and water baths before sanding and fairing. The pva will just dissolve and wash right off, don’t try solvents as they will not work, regular dawn dishliquid and water is what it takes. Water mostly!


----------



## Guest

You should be fine with 2-3 coats, looks pretty heavy to me so she shouldn’t stick!


----------



## 17376

I did apply a Liberal amount up on the wood itself


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Travis, looks good. Make sure where your hatch is going to lay down on the inner flange lip is 5/8” thick at the least to allow for the glass thickness on the hatch. If you use gaskets it has to be thicker.
I would suggest you smooth out your clay radiuses with your finger tip as good as you can now. Makes sanding easier. Also the hatch edge radiuses if big then hen the hatches will have to match them. 
If you follow what I show on my blog then all will pull out.
Make sure to drill lots of vent holes in your core if it’s smooth sheets so it lets air out when bonding.
To the rest out there, remember the deck it being supported by the bulkheads, rod racks, sheer, stern, rod tubes and all the rest of the vertical supports. All will be glued together in one piece.
That’s how you get a very strong light Skiff.
Have fun


----------



## Guest

Great advise as usual Chris!


----------



## 17376

Chris I went 3/4” on the flange lip. I did smooth it out more since that video.

Yes I have smooth divinycell. 

Do you recommend using thickened epoxy to glue down the core or just lay it wet on wet?


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Travis Smith said:


> Chris I went 3/4” on the flange lip. I did smooth it out more since that video.
> 
> Yes I have smooth divinycell.
> 
> Do you recommend using thickened epoxy to glue down the core or just lay it wet on wet?


Use thicked epoxy. Drill out 1/8” holes for the air to get out. Use a serrated squeegee to growl the putty on and wet out the core with resin. Just push down lightly and add light weight like pint cans or your tools.


----------



## 17376

@Chris Morejohn ok thanks 

In your blog it looks like you laid core all the way to the lip and hatches. Is that correct?


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Travis Smith said:


> @Chris Morejohn ok thanks
> 
> In your blog it looks like you laid core all the way to the lip and hatches. Is that correct?


Look at the plans drawings and the drawings on the blog. You taper them and end them about 1/2” away from the edges. Lots of builders just but and fill with putty but that addas weight, cost and you don’t get the extra glass on the edges.


----------



## Chris Beutel

Travis Smith said:


> View attachment 38876


That is really cool. I am looking forward to seeing how this comes together. Way over my head.


----------



## 17376

Thanks man!! You could easily do it.


----------



## DuckNut

Travis

These work awesome for the radius's









Heat them up, run them along the clay, clean up the extra that squeezes out.


----------



## 17376

What are thise?


----------



## yobata

Travis Smith said:


> What are thise?


They are clay shaping tools - $8 on Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/AIBER-Sculpting-Modeling-Double-ended-Decoration/dp/B01F554LOU


----------



## DuckNut

yobata said:


> They are clay shaping tools - $8 on Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/AIBER-Sculpting-Modeling-Double-ended-Decoration/dp/B01F554LOU


Yep, that's them.

They also use them for cake decorating.

When you use them the excess clay will come out the sides of the ball and there will be a perfect little separation of the fillet and the excess that makes it simple to remove the excess with a putty knife.


----------



## 17376

Ok I’ll take a look at it


----------



## 17376

The biggest I found was a 12 mm y’all think that’s ok?


----------



## Guest

I’ve never used them with clay, they do work good for wax fillets though.
DN, do they work good with modeling clay? I know it’s pretty stiff stuff to shape.


----------



## yobata

Travis Smith said:


> The biggest I found was a 12 mm y’all think that’s ok?


The link I sent earlier has them up to 17


----------



## 17376

I got two layers of glass on the mold! I will start the foam core tomorrow. And the last layer.


----------



## Guest

You’ll be slimin her in no time dude!


----------



## 17376

I hope so!!!


----------



## 17376

I am on 14 of 18 gallons of resin...I have wasted probably a gallon or more.. I laid out and started glassing a gas tank about a week ago.. I hated it and didn’t like how it looked so I trashed the whole thing.


----------



## Guest

Even at 18 gallons with your core choice and laminate schedule your under 300#’s still!


----------



## 17376

I think so!! We will see soon!! I will weight it


----------



## DuckNut

Boatbrains said:


> I’ve never used them with clay, they do work good for wax fillets though.
> DN, do they work good with modeling clay? I know it’s pretty stiff stuff to shape.


Yes they work on modeling clay. Just a bit more rubbing needed but they work fine.

If you really knead the clay it becomes very pliable and easy to work. If you just roll it out and stuff in place it remains a bit stiffer.


----------



## 17376

All of the foam core is cut out. Tomorrow I will glue and glass


----------



## Guest

Movin right along!


----------



## GoGataGo52__20

Sweet!


----------



## Chris Beutel

Travis Smith said:


> View attachment 39332
> All of the foam core is cut out. Tomorrow I will glue and glass


You are keeping me motivated with my build. Love seeing the daily progress.


----------



## 17376

At the rate you’re going you’ll catch me and will be testing the boats together. Your boat is looking great.


I have ran out of stuff to use for wait to hold the Divina cell in place. So I I am gluing half now and then half and a couple of hours. I think once the thick and the pox he starts to set it will hold itself down and I will be able to MoveOn.


----------



## 17376

Sorry for all the incorrect spellings. I am using talk to text while driving.


----------



## EvanHammer

If you have any empty buckets around (I have a garage full of them, plus empty peanut butter jars, since I save them for things I'm never going to organize/store) you can fill them with water and use them for weight.


----------



## 17376

I don’t but I’m going to get some as we speak. I am trying to get this glassed today.


----------



## EvanHammer

Travis Smith said:


> I don’t but I’m going to get some as we speak. I am trying to get this glassed today.


Too bad you don't live close to me because I also have some milk crates full of chains and some buckets of bolts - both make great weights. I should find a picture of all the shit in my garage when it flooded :/


----------



## bryson

Any reason you chose to build the deck from a mold rather than laying the foam out and glassing over/around it, the way you would do a floor or something? I assume it will be much easier to fair, but was wondering if there was any other reason.

Making great progress!


----------



## Pole Position

Let me go ahead and ask a dumbass question....w/o regard to the pros / cons of the materials, could you have used wood rather than the divinycell to make the decks? If possible, it seems that it would have been a helluva lot easier( ?? )


----------



## 17376

Yes I could have used wood. A good choice of wood would have been Meranti or okoume. I personally do not think it would have been easier due to the fact that I used a router up against the jig and cut the foam out for somewhat of a uniformed shape . I do not believe the wood would have cut that easy. as far as gluing it goes I personally think they would be the same because you need weight on either in order for it to stick to the fiberglass skin. 


I just wanted a fully foam core boat


----------



## 17376

bryson said:


> Any reason you chose to build the deck from a mold rather than laying the foam out and glassing over/around it, the way you would do a floor or something? I assume it will be much easier to fair, but was wondering if there was any other reason.
> 
> Making great progress!



I chose to go this route because I feel you would be more encapsulated and tied together. Once this is fully glued onto the hull it will help prevent the hull twisting too.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Travis, make sure you have vent holes in your foam. Otherwise you will get air pockets.
You will be able to hear the air pockets before glassing the last bottom layer if you scrape a Quarter over the core. You will notice the noise difference and you can carve out the core and bond in a better piece.
Wood-core deck shown in my plans is a very nice clean way to build but takes a bit longer. You hav to be a bit neater when glueing up. The best way is he way you’re going for sure both for weight and resale.
Make sure you glass all the channels, sheer, and cockpit edges well before removing. I will try and draw up what I mean today. Show here with a picture.


----------



## 17376




----------



## 17376

Chris I drilled 3/16 holes all throughout the core. I was using a screwdriver and tapping around until I heard a hollow spot. Then I would put a brick on it


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Travis Smith said:


> Chris I drilled 3/16 holes all throughout the core. I was using a screwdriver and tapping around until I heard a hollow spot. Then I would put a brick on it


Great, just checking. Looks all good. Kind of like watching over a grand kid being born I guess. I’am in BC Canada on an island for 6 weeks so I can be reached.


----------



## 17376

Awesome man!!! Appreciate all the help...


How many layers of glass do I need on the hatches? I have a layer a layer of 1 1/2 oz and 2 layers of 10 oz.


----------



## 17376

I also installed some stiffeners. In the deck and will also be putting them into the hatch lids also.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Travis Smith said:


> Awesome man!!! Appreciate all the help...
> 
> 
> How many layers of glass do I need on the hatches? I have a layer a layer of 1 1/2 oz and 2 layers of 10 oz.





Travis Smith said:


> I also installed some stiffeners. In the deck and will also be putting them into the hatch lids also.
> 
> View attachment 39512



All looks good. Here are some sketches to explain my design thinking.
I have always felt that to have Kevlar on the inside of a Skiffs skin adds added resin weight and cost for no reason as it’s only a small % stronger than regular eglass and harder to work with and repair.
Now just look at the top view of a simple skiffs supporting bulkheads, rod racks, sheer and transom area.
All of this is glued inplace. The small square Ft. Areas inbetween will not flex if bonded well so the deck can’t move.
Please remember that when your Skiff is floating you are walking on a hull that is floating on water so your decks are not being compressed at the weight rate as if they were on solid land.
Lots of give with water. Now jump on your deck with your Skiff in your back yard and then maybe it will give a bit and you could feel that. Still the core and glass will go back to its original state.
You don’t need anymore glass on the underside of the deck than shown for skiffs of this size.
The key to durability is making sure the edges of the sheer, cockpit and hatches are glassed like shown. No airpockets here or bubbles please.
I would plan on glassing in the stern well deck to its bulkheads for ultimate strength.
It is also very good to radius in from inside as much of the deck to the bulkheads and sheer. Just flip the boat over when it’s bonded. Put it up on supports and it’s very easy this way. That’s what we started at HB.
Have fun


----------



## 17376

Thank you Chris!! It’s easier understanding your drawings. I kind of went over kill on the hatches then adding two layers 10oz and a layer of 1 1/2 oz. 

How big should the motor well be?


----------



## Tigweld

Travis, how did the hull laminate schedule differ from your deck? Couldn’t find it in the thread(if it was discussed what page)

Thanks


----------



## yobata

Tigweld said:


> Travis, how did the hull laminate schedule differ from your deck? Couldn’t find it in the thread(if it was discussed what page)
> 
> Thanks


https://www.microskiff.com/threads/conchfish-16.51470/page-4#post-423988


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Travis and all,
Some more quick sketches.
The sump that was used on the Hells Bay Skiffs during my time were developed by Flip Pallot. He explained to me what he wanted when I started on building the first interior plug and mold for the Whipray.
This version to me is perfect if understood and used properly.
First off it works with a self bailing floor only.
If you are not going to have a selfbailing floor in a skiff you have to have a bilge pump to get the water out.
If you are aboard a shallow water Skiff the self bailing floor will not be able to be high enough in most all skiffs when you are aboard with others. This means you will have to plug the stern from water getting in and use the bilge pump when operating.
If not having a floor in your Skiff then you will have to use a bilge pump to get excess water out.
I only use a cut off Clorox bottle to bail out water and I never have a drain hole in my personal skiffs. One less thing to deal with. But I’am old school.
So if no floor the only thing you have to think about is how to drain the water to the bilge pump to be bailed out. If having a stern box bulkhead in the way to the stern you will need a sump. I show a few ideas.

The Chittum Skiff version makes for an open aft locker but you still need to have a well above to be able to tilt your engine. Now if you are using a jackplate at the start you could get away with no well at all.
You can then use a version of the Chittum internal box that holds the bilge pump.
The problem with the Chittum box to me is if you need to bail the boat in an emergency, say your battery is dead you will have to reach over the stern to unplug so you can self bail when under way. Not a big deal but not fun when your skiffs stern is going under. If you have a well that goes to the hull bottom then you can just reach down from above and un plug.
The other liability of the Chittum setup is your bilge pump is not seen till you open your aft hatch and unscrew the inspection plate to unclog it through a 7” hole. Not easy even for a small guy like me. Any work that needs to be done to it is a major project. Also if it’s full of water it can leak into the locker if the twist on lid is not screwed down properly so this low box in the Skiff will be completely full of water most of the time. To me it was a cool concept but has too many flaws and is complicated for my old school thoughts.

Now Flips version if used properly is dead simple.
When aboard you reach down and plug the well from inside the well. Now the water will flow aft and be pumped out. Got crap in your bilge pump reach down unhook and lift up and check it out. Very easy if set up right. By this I mean enough room in the well for the pump and hose.
Today HB and and others have corrupted this system with the bilge pump being so far inaccessible as to be dangerous. You need a trained Glades Python to get down where it’s hidden.

If wanting to self bail at the dock overnight you just un plug the stern. This lets water in up to its sea water level. If your Skiff is loaded it will flow up and onto your floor. If your floor is above the load waterline then it will just flow out and stay the same level. 
If you forget to put the stern plug back in when getting aboard you will have wet feet till you remember.
Having a self bailing floor is great in big squalls and rainstorms so you don’t have to go check on the bilge pump or bail out with my Clorox bottle in the middle of the night. You must always tie your Skiff off so it won’t catch the dock on the tide and fill with water that way. Not fair to the system.

All my early Waterman skiffs with their stern boxes could self bail by just unplugging the stern. The floor would flood to about 2-1/2 - 3” and stop. The hulls flotation bouancy would take over and that was it. Let her rain all night and she would stay at the seas water level. When boarding this Skiff you would get wet feet while you put the stern plug in and the bilge pump took over and bailed out the sea water.
So lots of ways to do it. Let me know of new ways.


----------



## 17376

Deck is flipped over... it turned out pretty good.. I do have some wood that stuck. So I’m sure it will be a pain to get off...


----------



## bryson

Nice! Doing it that way should really cut down on the time spent fairing.


----------



## yobata

Travis Smith said:


> Deck is flipped over... it turned out pretty good.. I do have some wood that stuck. So I’m sure it will be a pain to get off...
> 
> View attachment 39600
> View attachment 39602


So... Have you hopped on top of it yet?


----------



## 17376

No.. it’s not glued and doesn’t have all of the bracing in it.


----------



## mtoddsolomon

I look forward to seeing updates on this thread, If I could convince the wife that I need my evo and another skiff i would have started buying supplies already.


----------



## Guest

mtoddsolomon said:


> I look forward to seeing updates on this thread, If I could convince the wife that I need my evo and another skiff i would have started buying supplies already.


Easier to ask forgiveness!


----------



## Pole Position

mtoddsolomon said:


> I look forward to seeing updates on this thread, If I could convince the wife that I need my evo and another skiff i would have started buying supplies already.


Go ahead and order supplies and don't tell her--- that way, you'll only get hollered at ( or worse ) once.


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## Chris Morejohn

Travis, if the hatch channels are stuck just concentrate on prying out one corner. Or just chisel out one corner. Once you have a side out you can use a small pry to lift out. I know this because ....well it happens.
Looks great. 
Just sand till the shine and wax is off, no more.


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## 17376

It’s actually not the gutters.. on the gunnels, the Formica just a sq ft stuck.


----------



## Guest

That’s good news there!


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## 17376

I probably won’t be working on it for a few days... I put in about 12 hours yesterday. Towards the end of the my eyes started to get a little irritated. By the time I was done around 10pm my eye lids were swollen. Now today they’re still swollen. I went out for about 20 minutes or so to flip the deck and they became more inflamed. I am thinking that I have gotten an allergy to epoxy.... fml


----------



## Guest

Could be, I have noticed similar with my eyelids in the heat when glassing/grinding poly/vinyl too. Hope it clears and all is well!


----------



## 17376

I have heard of people working with this stuff for years and getting an allergy to it and having to stop working with it.. I hope I don’t get it that bad


----------



## Guest

I know once you develop a sensitivity to these things they don’t usually go away. I have to be extremely careful when working around products that contain isocyanates, “hosplital trip” careful!


----------



## 17376

Thanks for telling me that lol...


----------



## Guest

did you do any sanding? The dust can really cause irritation around the eyes especially if you were sweating!


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## 17376

No sanding at all.. just laying glass.


----------



## Guest

It could be a fluke! Mabe ya rubbed your eyes somehow or got a little mist off a roller on ya. Just make sure you keep covered and well ventilated area next round of glassing amd watch for symptoms. The styrene in poly and gelcoat kills me when I spray if it gets on my face somehow! I look like I stuck my face in a deep fryer!


----------



## 17376

I need a bubble with arm slots lol... mine isn’t that bad and knock on wood it doesn’t get that bad.


----------



## yobata

Let's get back to the real questions: 1. Why are you not posting more photos, you skiff tease?! 2. I know you think that you're giving us enough updates, but I need more. Redundancy is never a fault, shower me with pics!! I want to see her from all angles ... 

meyeaw!


----------



## Pole Position

Out of curiosity, do you put any extra reinforcement / backing plates, etc on the decks where the poling / casting platform will be located now, or just wait till later?


----------



## Guest

If it were me and I know where things are going, I would remove one skin in the area and fill with thickened epoxy or place phenolic blocks in using thickened epoxy then glass back over it for mounting blocks. If I were using poly resin then I would use thickened poly in place of the epoxy.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Boatbrains said:


> If it were me and I know where things are going, I would remove one skin in the area and fill with thickened epoxy or place phenolic blocks in using thickened epoxy then glass back over it for mounting blocks. If I were using poly resin then I would use thickened poly in place of the epoxy.


Boatbrains, the past year when I was working at Isla Marine in the Keys I saw lots of HB skiffs with phenolic block inserts that had swelled up lifting the deck. I have never used this stuff for inserts. So just an observation.
On all my decks I have just relied on proper backing plate from below. I feel the core has enough compressive strength. Now you have to have a secre tower setup and proper feet too so it does not work and the coreners don’t dig in if moving.
If going the route of cutting out the skin from below before gluing the deck on I agree with using putty fillers with cabocil or silaca as the thickening powder. I like to just lay in multiple layers of 1-1/2 oz matt and cloth to build up and then I can drill and tap the 1/4-20 bolts in place and not need the have nuts and washers. Or best of all just add the nuts and washers last. Very watertight and strong, but a bit more work.
You differently know your stuff. If using epoxy and wanting a real dense filler use west’s highdensity filler along with silaca. Will be as hard as rock too.
The cool thing about building a one off deck like this is you can glass on all kinds things to it like around the stern and fill in stuff from above and then just fair over for the final paint job. This is great when wanting a side console to flow right into the deck and other such stuff..


----------



## Guest

Chris Morejohn said:


> Boatbrains, the past year when I was working at Isla Marine in the Keys I saw lots of HB skiffs with phenolic block inserts that had swelled up lifting the deck. I have never used this stuff for inserts. So just an observation.
> On all my decks I have just relied on proper backing plate from below. I feel the core has enough compressive strength. Now you have to have a secre tower setup and proper feet too so it does not work and the coreners don’t dig in if moving.
> If going the route of cutting out the skin from below before gluing the deck on I agree with using putty fillers with cabocil or silaca as the thickening powder. I like to just lay in multiple layers of 1-1/2 oz matt and cloth to build up and then I can drill and tap the 1/4-20 bolts in place and not need the have nuts and washers. Or best of all just add the nuts and washers last. Very watertight and strong, but a bit more work.
> You differently know your stuff. If using epoxy and wanting a real dense filler use west’s highdensity filler along with silaca. Will be as hard as rock too.
> The cool thing about building a one off deck like this is you can glass on all kinds things to it like around the stern and fill in stuff from above and then just fair over for the final paint job. This is great when wanting a side console to flow right into the deck and other such stuff..


Chris, thank’s for the heads up about the phenolic block! While I have never seen it myself, I will take your word and continue using thickened putty!


----------



## 17376




----------



## Guest

Ah, good times! I take it you are feelin better!


----------



## 17376

You and Chris already answered pole position’s question..

I feel fine...my eyes are still swollen.. but I had to do some work. It drives me crazy sitting inside..


What is the best way to get clay off?


----------



## Guest

Travis Smith said:


> You and Chris already answered pole position’s question..
> 
> I feel fine...my eyes are still swollen.. but I had to do some work. It drives me crazy sitting inside..
> 
> 
> What is the best way to get clay off?


Good question, when you find the answer please tell me! I usually just use a soap and water bathe with a scrub brush after scraping as much as I can. Seems to work but is work! If someone has a better way, I’d sure like to hear it.
A small electric pressure washer might do the trick then a soap and water bath to remove residue???


----------



## 17376

I just might give the pressure washer a try..


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## Chris Morejohn

I use a wood wedge to scrape off. About 1-/12” Wide. You get a slight round groove in it and the sides catch lots of clay. Now I am not complaining but as this is your first deck you have big radiuses so a bit more clay. Next time you could make your clay worms very thin. Less work later.
Now I look for any really big bad air bubbles if any. If so grind out with a burr bit and fill with putty.
Now once the 98% of the clay is gone I trim sheer and all hatch gutters. I then use my flat sanding pad contraption to sand the sheen- wax off. Then I use a Radom orbital to sand the radiuses till wax and clay is just gone. I sand the hatch channels by hand with 40 grit till wax is gone. 
I now straitened up all edges that will be seen like the hatch Chanel and cockpit lower edge. The sheer will have a rubrail hiding the lower edge so not seen. Use a long board that is stiff. Say 12” long.
Once this is done I then make sure the underside of the deck is ground and smooth. You can paint or Gelcoat it now leaving out the areas to be bonded. Make sure the bare areas have been grinded so no blush and ready to bond.
Once deck is bonded you can then glass in stern well and any other stuff onto the deck. Then you can Fair it if needed and sand up to 80 grit.
Now it’s ready for primer. Prime, fill holes you missed sand to 120-180 and finish coat. Then nonskid.
Remember that the deck will be seen first so it’s the most beautiful important thing visually on the project.


----------



## 17376

Thanks for all the tips.. couple of things.. could I use a router and straighten up/even out all of my radiuses? Do I need to build them up or are these ok? What do you recommend for a non-skid?


----------



## Chris Morejohn

You can’t use a router. Sand fair and round edges with some putty on them with a 12” hard board with sand paper by hand. 
Lots of ways to do non skid but best looking is to use awlgrip rough non skid partials sprayed on.
Next best if not having a spray gun is to roll.
I can explain when later in detail how to do it all ways. I learned a great way from Brian Floyd this past year in spraying, just amazing finish.


----------



## Gatorgrizz27

Pole Position said:


> Out of curiosity, do you put any extra reinforcement / backing plates, etc on the decks where the poling / casting platform will be located now, or just wait till later?


I’m not the OP or an expert, but with a tiller motor and not knowing exactly where the poling platform feet will sit for clearance, I made sure the deck had some additional bracing in the general area, then plan to connect the front and rear legs with a plate like some of the HB Glades Skiffs have. That should make a normal reinforced deck strong enough, as well as prevent it from rocking back and forth over time like happens on some skiffs.


----------



## 17376




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## Guest

Lookin good


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## devrep

hey Travis, nice work. You're going to have a Whipray for a fraction of the cost and the satisfaction every time you use it of having built it yourself!


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## 17376

Thanks y’all! I could never see myself paying that much for a Whipray.. so next best thing...


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## Guest

Travis Smith said:


> Thanks y’all! I could never see myself paying that much for a Whipray.. so next best thing...


Or maybe better!


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## Fishshoot

It may end up being the next Better thing! I enjoy watching this thread and appreciate you taking the time to share it all with us!


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## 17376

Anytime!! Thanks for all the feedback.. I hope that this build will get people to buy more plans from CM. Let’s support him and not these big companies who screw us when buying their boats...save 40k on a Whipray and build it yourself.


----------



## jonrconner

Travis Smith said:


> Anytime!! Thanks for all the feedback.. I hope that this build will get people to buy more plans from CM. Let’s support him and not these big companies who screw us when buying their boats...save 40k on a Whipray and build it yourself.


Chris deserves all the credit we can give him, he’s the most generous person you’ll ever find and it’s an incredible privilege to have affordable (or free) access to his designs and the endless depths of his boatbuilding knowledge. Skiffs would not be what they are without him!
JC


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## 17376

jonrconner said:


> Chris deserves all the credit we can give him, he’s the most generous person you’ll ever find and it’s an incredible privilege to have affordable (or free) access to his designs and the endless depths of his boatbuilding knowledge. Skiffs would not be what they are without him!
> JC


Yes he does.. it shows you what kind of person he is.. not in it for the money.. and more than willing to give his knowledge..


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## Chris Beutel

Travis Smith said:


> View attachment 40084
> View attachment 40086
> View attachment 40088


That is looking really good Travis. I'm glad you are back at it.


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## 17376

Thanks Chris!! 

Here are some more pictures.. this tropical storm soaking the whole state of Florida is killing me. I need to be able to do more work in a day. Fairing the cap


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## Guest

Somebody has been busy! Lookin good!


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## 17376

Thanks man!! Not really about a ten minute sanding job.


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## trekker

Looks good Bud.


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## 17376

Thanks guys


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## 17376

So I picked up a spotless, has one small scratch, 30hp Yamaha 3 cylinder. It is a fresh water engine.


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## 17376




----------



## makin moves

She's clean! Nice score!


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## Pole Position

She's gonna scoot---guessing you'll see low to mid 30s ( ?? )...


----------



## 17376

I think so!! It’s gonna fly


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## Guest

Very nice, clean Yami Travis! You should see many years good service out of it as long as you take care of it. Congrats, you deserve it!


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## 17376

Thanks lol it was an older gentleman 85... he is getting too old to stand up and pull start it. Says less than 100 hours...


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## 17376

Getting the transom, motorwell mocked up. Now that I know what engine I’m using.


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## bryson

Coming right along! That motor should be a great fit for that boat, good find. Love seeing the progress!


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## 17376

Thank man!! I hope it pushes it fine


----------



## lsunoe

Everything looks awesome Travis. I think I've read this thread through 5 times, lots of good information in here. I'm almost 100% sure I'll be starting a build on this by next May. I'll be finishing up my Master's in Naval Architecture and I want to build a skiff to get familiar with the process and everything that goes into it and then design my own skiff to build. All of my experience is with big steel and aluminum ships so this is a very fun change of pace. Keep up the good work man.


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## GoGataGo52__20

Man you got a sick motor man, those things are like gold!


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## Chris Beutel

Travis Smith said:


> Getting the transom, motorwell mocked up. Now that I know what engine I’m using.
> 
> View attachment 40352
> View attachment 40354


Will you put a sole in the rear hatch or cover up the drain tube for dry storage? That motor looks sweet. It's like those guys that find classic cars in old barns!


----------



## lsunoe

One quick question for you. While I was looking at his plans on the blog, I was looking at the table of offsets and for station 1 the offset for waterline 4 is larger than the offsets for waterlines 5 and 6, however, his drawing doesn't depict it this way. Can you clarify on this for me please?


----------



## Chris Morejohn

lsunoe said:


> One quick question for you. While I was looking at his plans on the blog, I was looking at the table of offsets and for station 1 the offset for waterline 4 is larger than the offsets for waterlines 5 and 6, however, his drawing doesn't depict it this way. Can you clarify on this for me please?


Well it’s good to see you can read offsets. There are 2 sets of hull lines. The one you are referring to is my original design drawing. You can if you look close enough see where I erased the filled in lower chine and widened out to what I first wanted. You can also see where I added the extra width to the upper chine.
What you see is a mistake on my part. I put in the 2.7 when it should be something in between the two above and below. But because it’s a strait fair line from chine edge to the sheer it’s no big deal. 
This is why you need to loft other designers designs full size to “ fair out “ their lines, ah... wrong numbers.
I find when I find these mistakes here and there my mind just flipped the number.
Now only a couple of builders so far have lofted out and built from this plan.
The ones that everyone is building from is from a computer drawn set of lines and well a computer is not a human so makes no mistakes when fairing out lines and drawing in the numbers.
I have not posted tye computer cad plans on my blog as my partner and I want to sell those plans. We split the sales in half.
So for anyone out there that is taking the little bit of time it takes to redraw from my plans that are shown on my blog....if you see a discrepancy photograph it and email me and I will look it over and say...ah, yea it’s backwards was a bit dyslexic there.
Isunoe, thanks for the heads up, and any other questions on your quest to design your vision feel free to email me.


----------



## lsunoe

Chris Morejohn said:


> Well it’s good to see you can read offsets. There are 2 sets of hull lines. The one you are referring to is my original design drawing. You can if you look close enough see where I erased the filled in lower chine and widened out to what I first wanted. You can also see where I added the extra width to the upper chine.
> What you see is a mistake on my part. I put in the 2.7 when it should be something in between the two above and below. But because it’s a strait fair line from chine edge to the sheer it’s no big deal.
> This is why you need to loft other designers designs full size to “ fair out “ their lines, ah... wrong numbers.
> I find when I find these mistakes here and there my mind just flipped the number.
> Now only a couple of builders so far have lofted out and built from this plan.
> The ones that everyone is building from is from a computer drawn set of lines and well a computer is not a human so makes no mistakes when fairing out lines and drawing in the numbers.
> I have not posted tye computer cad plans on my blog as my partner and I want to sell those plans. We split the sales in half.
> So for anyone out there that is taking the little bit of time it takes to redraw from my plans that are shown on my blog....if you see a discrepancy photograph it and email me and I will look it over and say...ah, yea it’s backwards was a bit dyslexic there.
> Isunoe, thanks for the heads up, and any other questions on your quest to design your vision feel free to email me.


Chris, thanks so much for taking the time to reply. I have learned a great deal from all of the information you're so willing to share and I am very thankful for that. I'm sure I'll be pinging you with a couple questions over the next few months as I lead up to the Conchfish build.

I have converted several ships offsets into 3D using Rhino and other CAD software as I feel it really gives an appreciation for how beautiful the roots of shipbuilding are. 

Sorry to derail Travis, I'm really looking forward to seeing your progress.


----------



## trekker

Travis, when you laid up the deck, did you do the whole thing at once ? Or did you do glass/core and let it cure and then come back later and do the glass on the other side?

Thanks.


----------



## devrep

perfect motor for that boat.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

I have drawn up my past tunnel design here for a client in Abu Dhabi that will be building the CONCHFISH in mast production. 
Everyone from the gulf states will know what’s up here for sure. This is what I fine tuned in 1998 for the HB skiffs. I have written about how this design came to be. I just looked at what was being used and this is about as small as I could find to work well with my hull shapes.
It’s not the definitive shape,size for sure. 
I do know that what’s shown here works really well though with this skiffs hull bottom.
You can see the drawing maybe better on my blog hogfishdesign.wordpress.com


----------



## trekker

Chris Morejohn said:


> View attachment 40684
> View attachment 40682
> View attachment 40686
> View attachment 40688
> I have drawn up my past tunnel design here for a client in Abu Dhabi that will be building the CONCHFISH in mast production.
> Everyone from the gulf states will know what’s up here for sure. This is what I fine tuned in 1998 for the HB skiffs. I have written about how this design came to be. I just looked at what was being used and this is about as small as I could find to work well with my hull shapes.
> It’s not the definitive shape,size for sure.
> I do know that what’s shown here works really well though with this skiffs hull bottom.
> You can see the drawing maybe better on my blog hogfishdesign.wordpress.com



You're the man!! Thanks for sharing.


----------



## Guest

Ok Travis, it’s been a few days now. We need updates and pics sir, withdrawls are setting in!


----------



## 17376

Haven’t done much. Just sanding and I fiberglassed the transom in. Just doing some inside fairing and sanding this week.


----------



## 17376

What size of rod tubes should I use?


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Travis Smith said:


> What size of rod tubes should I use?


Good day, it’s cold and raining out here in BC this morning.
Use thin wall PVC 1-1/2” diameter. I like to glue on end caps short ones as that makes them really watertight at the ends.
The heating and squishing the ends system is fine too.


----------



## 17376

Thank you Chris.. the east coast is preparing for the hurricane.. I’m sure us here in north Florida will have a crap ton of rain this week. 


Chris do you prefer making them flat to the bulkhead or making a lip on them?


----------



## mwolaver

Travis Smith said:


> Thank you Chris.. the east coast is preparing for the hurricane......
> Chris do you prefer making them flat to the bulkhead or making a lip on them?


I vote for flat. Fly line...


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Travis Smith said:


> Thank you Chris.. the east coast is preparing for the hurricane.. I’m sure us here in north Florida will have a crap ton of rain this week.
> 
> 
> Chris do you prefer making them flat to the bulkhead or making a lip on them?


My sailboats in Panama safe and our home in the Bahamas is so far so good.
Make them flush with the bulkheads. Just putty in any gaps. Put a bit of putty on the inside part too. Add putty to the sides of the pvc forward on the support there. They will never move.
Stay safe everyone in the zone. Thinking of you all.


----------



## 17376

Thanks Chris.

And as Chris said, everyone be safe.


----------



## trekker

This is how mine turned out. I cut a 90 in a plastic spreader used that to flush it up. Didnt turn out perfect, but I hadn't discovered the smoothing properties of cabosil yet.

And nevermind the non skid on the bulkhead. While skidding the floor I noticed a thin spot on the BH. "Touched it up" before it dawned on me the roller had non skid on it. Said to hell with it and skidded em both.


----------



## 17376

@Chris Morejohn 

Random question...on the port side at the stern, there is a small hatch. What is it for?


----------



## 17376

I will probably leave mine over hanging some and just cut it off flush afterwards


----------



## hunterbrown

Travis Smith said:


> @Chris Morejohn
> 
> Random question...on the port side at the stern, there is a small hatch. What is it for?


It's a crustacean well for keeping a few crabs or shrimp. Normally they are set up for some kind of flow through system with no pumps. A lot of people will put some kind of aeration device for shrimp or a few pinfish.


----------



## 17376

Does anyone have a picture of what it looks like inside of it? How it flows.


----------



## MariettaMike

Chris Morejohn said:


> ....I saw lots of HB skiffs with phenolic block inserts that had swelled up lifting the deck....


Are you sure it was swelling and not from a turnbuckle pulling up on the deck for a long time?


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Travis Smith said:


> Thank you Chris.. the east coast is preparing for the hurricane.. I’m sure us here in north Florida will have a crap ton of rain this week.
> 
> 
> Chris do you prefer making them flat to the bulkhead or making a lip on them?


My sailboats in Panama safe and our home in the Bahamas is so far so good.
Make them flush with the bulkheads. Just putty in any gaps. Put a bit of putty on the inside part too. Add putty to the sides of the pvc forward on the support there. They will never move.
Stay s


MariettaMike said:


> Are you sure it was swelling and not from a turnbuckle pulling up on the deck for a long time?





MariettaMike said:


> Are you sure it was swelling and not from a turnbuckle pulling up on the deck for a long time?


I have deleted all the photos of all the Phenolic but it for sure swells from moisture getting to it through the thin layer of glass skins. You can find it swell where there are hinges too. I saw it happening on HB skiffs and others.
The small hatch is as described above. A crab hatch. Crabs don’t need water just a damp towel. Shrimp will survive all day in a plastic bag set on top of ice. So no real need for a baitwell unless using pinfish or small fish.
I just drew in a sample deck. I feel everyone will build their own version.


----------



## MariettaMike

Chris Morejohn said:


> I have deleted all the photos of all the Phenolic but it for sure swells from moisture getting to it through the thin layer of glass skins. You can find it swell where there are hinges too. I saw it happening on HB skiffs and others.


So what do you recommend using at anchor points?

Having had trolling motors and anchor points fail from doing nothing but using fender washers I would rather take my chances on a little swelling.


----------



## 17376

Read the post it was already answered


----------



## 17376

@Chris Morejohn im hopefully going to glue this cap on this week if the weather cooperates... what is the best way to glue it? Set cap on hull or flip the hull to the cap? What to use as a glue?


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Travis Smith said:


> @Chris Morejohn im hopefully going to glue this cap on this week if the weather cooperates... what is the best way to glue it? Set cap on hull or flip the hull to the cap? What to use as a glue?


Travis,
Make sure the deck Is clean and all prepared to what you want to see. I usually paint all the underside except the 2” around every edge that I will be able to putty in and fillet. 
Once you are happy with the fit vacume off everything to be glued. Because it’s epoxy make sure all the shiny blush areas are cleaned off with vinegar.
The hull must not be twisted in any way. Make sure the sheer is level everywhere.
You can slide in 2x4 short blocks inbetween the deck and the skiffs sheer. Put in just enough to hold the deck off the hull the width of the 2x4. This means it will be raised up 3-1/2” or apart this much.
This is enough room to apply your bonding putty.
Because you are using epoxy resin to build with I would look at the temperature of what your outside shop could be. Then decide if you will need to use a slower hardener if it’s going to be too hot out.
It’s nice to have an extra hand when mixing the resin and adding the fillers. 
If you could get an extra helper I would set up each of you 1 person per side of the Skiff with your clean buckets and an idea of how much putty quantity needs to be mixed.
Mix up your bonding putty and start spreading out on the Skiffs sheer flange.
Just get some on as quick as possible and go right on around. It does not have to be neat.
With 2 people or more this goes quite fast. 
Once putty is in place then start removing the blocks starting at the bow. The deck will start to lay down as the blocks are removed.
Once all the blocks are out make sure the bow decks point lines up with the hulls stem. Very important!
Now lightly clamp this off. Now go aft and make sure the stern is on correctly with the predrawn centerline.
Now clamp lightly.
From here you can clamp down or weighdown the deck to the hull. Don’t use too heavy weights or pressure or you will squeeze out the bonding putty.
Ok now it’s all done. If you can clean up any putty that has squeezed out.
Let it cure. Once cured the nicest way to Fillet the deck to the hull is to roll the Skiff upside down. Slide it out into the yard and lay down a blanket on the grass and with 2 other friends you can roll over.
Then lift Skiff up onto saw horses. From here it’s easy to fillet everything together. This will take about 3 hours.
Really make sure the outer sheer to hull joint is puttied in completely. When all this is done the Skiff will be very watertight at the sheer and all the bulkheads. She will never twist.
Now flip back over. But at this point you could finish and paint the hull before flipping upright.


----------



## 17376

Thanks Chris for all the input!! 

Did some more sanding today on the cap. I am waiting for more fairing and epoxy to get here. Then that will be finished and ready to go on.


----------



## Guest

Looks good dude!


----------



## 17376

Thanks man!!


----------



## 17376

Rod holders all glassed up. I will fair and glue those in tomorrow. I will be painting inside the hatches this week to prepare for deck install. They’re talking about rain this weekend so that might put a damper on things.

The rod holders are 1” wide and glassed completely.

Ignore the screw holes. That’s how I held them together while the glue dried.

View attachment 41222


----------



## Chris Morejohn

On a lighter note before the big weather event.
Angelo Genovese one of the builders of a wood composite CONCHFISH has come up with the official







View attachment 41234







logo for these skiffs. He will be selling tee shirts and logos to go along with his Skiff and for others.
Looks great to me. 
3 more builders added to the list this past week.


----------



## 17376

Chris Morejohn said:


> 3 more builders added to the list this past week.


Meaning you sold 3 more sets of plans or 3 people interested in the shirts?


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Travis Smith said:


> Meaning you sold 3 more sets of plans or 3 people interested in the shirts?


Sets of plans. Lots of interest. The CONCHFISH is going to be built in Abu Dhabi with molds to build in production for fishing out in the Arabian Sea. They have great spearfishing and flyfishing for permit and lots of other species out there. The fleet is growing.


----------



## 17376

@Chris Morejohn thats awesome.. I get emails or messages on here everyday asking about plans or interest/information on the boat.


----------



## mtoddsolomon

I will build one of these with a tiller and a high end trailer. Not might, maybe or anything else. I will have this in my garage and with me catching fish within the next year


----------



## 17376

I hope so!! That would be awesome. I am going to pick my aluminum trailer up Friday!


----------



## 17376

What do y’all recommend for painting inside the hatch? I am using awlgrip aqua mist for the whole boat however I want white inside the hatches. I also don’t want to spend the money for white awlgrip...


----------



## yobata

The cheap option is Rustoleum topside but it's not a 2 part paint. 

My vote is to not skimp at this point. Do it right the first time and use a quality two part paint or you will end up having to touch up once in a while


----------



## Guest

I agree with yobata, your in it this far already... no time to skimp. Use a good two part paint. You could use a qualty “bedliner” type product also, this will make it a little quieter inside the hatch and is very durable! The bedliner will weight more than paint though.


----------



## 17376

I used monstaliner on my FS18 and that was some durable stuff. I grounded for days to remove it when I built hatches for that boat.


----------



## EdK13

Chris Morejohn said:


> On a lighter note before the big weather event.
> Angelo Genovese one of the builders of a wood composite CONCHFISH has come up with the official
> View attachment 41232
> View attachment 41234
> View attachment 41230
> logo for these skiffs. He will be selling tee shirts and logos to go along with his Skiff and for others.
> Looks great to me.
> 3 more builders added to the list this past week.


Better late than never-


----------



## EdK13

yobata said:


> The cheap option is Rustoleum topside but it's not a 2 part paint.
> 
> My vote is to not skimp at this point. Do it right the first time and use a quality two part paint or you will end up having to touch up once in a while


Being a guy that paid to remedy one part half ass repairs- do it right.


----------



## Tigweld

Will the rodholders be glassed in or glued?


----------



## 17376

Yes they will be glassed in


----------



## trekker

I see myself ordering a sey too.

Chris, what's the minimum HP i can get by with?


----------



## jonrconner

There are lots of the HB predecessors of this boat with 25hp.
JC


----------



## 17376

He recommends a 25-40


----------



## 17376

The Conchfish got new wheels!!


----------



## 17376

She has color inside the hatch.


----------



## Guest

What paint did you go with?


----------



## 17376

BLP it’s a local company.. two part epoxy paint. Two boats ago I painted it with it..


----------



## DuckNut

BLP is great paint. I have recommended it on here many times.

This is a fantastic build Travis


----------



## 17376

Thanks!! I have used it for years on cars.. great auto paint. The guy at the store said there is a group of guys in Tampa I think who orders a bunch to pai t boats with


----------



## Net 30

Build looks great. 

Sure wish someone would pop a mold and start making these on a limited basis (hint-hint).


----------



## DuckNut

Travis Smith said:


> Thanks!! I have used it for years on cars.. great auto paint. The guy at the store said there is a group of guys in Tampa I think who orders a bunch to pai t boats with


There is. But they only order the non tintable white and they put it on some really big boats.

I have to order it because there is nobody around who sells it. There is one place semi local that stocks their Camo paint but won't even order anything else, so I have to order directly from them.


----------



## 17376

I would love too!! I would really enjoy it..


Will they actually ship it to you?


----------



## yobata

Net 30 said:


> Build looks great.
> 
> Sure wish someone would pop a mold and start making these on a limited basis (hint-hint).


There's supposedly a guy in Edgewater that is doing just that.

https://www.microskiff.com/threads/...flats-skiff-launched.54524/page-2#post-458840

His email is wrong on that post, it's [email protected] not kiff* at gmail...


----------



## 17376

I don’t know that they are building the Conchfish. I think they are doing the piranha


----------



## Fishshoot

Piranha boatworks in Sanford is doing the plumb bow boat


----------



## DuckNut

Travis Smith said:


> I would love too!! I would really enjoy it..
> 
> 
> Will they actually ship it to you?


They do and I guess I first used it roughly 25 years ago.

Really wish someone local would start carry it.


----------



## 17376




----------



## devrep

did you use thin wall irrigation pipe? It should have bent a lot easier than that.


----------



## 17376

It is the thinnest they had.. the schedule 40 was probably 3/16 thick and this was probably 1/8 thick... it was a pita. It was starting to crimp. I had to heat it to get it this much.

It’s 1.5” PVC if anyone was wondering


----------



## Chris Beutel

Travis Smith said:


> View attachment 41570


You have been busy. Looking good. I'm in that slow phase of installing cleats getting ready for foam and the sole.


----------



## Smackdaddy53

Travis Smith said:


> It is the thinnest they had.. the schedule 40 was probably 3/16 thick and this was probably 1/8 thick... it was a pita. It was starting to crimp. I had to heat it to get it this much.
> 
> It’s 1.5” PVC if anyone was wondering


The trick is fill the PVC with sand past where you want to bend it and it will hold heat longer and not want to crimp when you bend it.


----------



## 17376

In my previous boat I used schedule 40 and it flexed with no problem and I never even heated it. At least no one will see it besides what y’all see here lol

Chris you’re nearly done. Before you know it y’all will be fishing out of it.


----------



## yobata

I heated schedule 40 with a heat gun to bend and it didn't burn like that. Hopefully it's a good enough sweep that it won't catch rod tips


----------



## lsunoe

Travis, do you have a build spread sheet going to keep track of everything you've purchased for the build so far? Would definitely be interested in seeing it if you had one.


----------



## lemaymiami

Why the caps on your rod tubes... I'd want them open so they could dry out after using... Retained moisture in small areas isn't anything to encourage for me since I'm on the water so much.... 

I'm enjoying your build and will look forward to your next posts... All those years ago when me and other guys I knew built, or restored/customized small skiffs we were making it up as we went along - with nothing to guide us but our own mistakes... It sure would have been nice if a fraction of what's available now were where we could find it back then... Microskiff and other sites rock - any way you look at it...


----------



## 17376

I’m probably on the water around 200 days a year. I have never had an issue with rod tubes being sealed. I don’t want water going through an open rod tube into a “sealed” compartment.


----------



## 17376

Primer is wet in these pictures! But it is primed!! Block sanding tomorrow.


----------



## 17376

@Chris Morejohn are these edges too sharp?


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Travis Smith said:


> @Chris Morejohn are these edges too sharp?


Travis,
The only place you could soften is the stern transom edge coming up to the upper chine.
All the rest are good for performance.
You will have to add some small wedges in on the stern for the trim tabs to be square with the centerline.
Theses cab be in starvpboard or a piece of hardwood. Just the width of the trim tab mounting flange. 
Otherwise looks great.


----------



## 17376

Thanks Chris for checking the pictures out so quick!! I forgot about them.. thanks.. I have some of the aquaplas I used on the transom left... will that work? Or I have some okoume or meranti.


----------



## DuckNut

I am so glad to see someone else paints like me...a beautiful 25 foot job


----------



## 17376

I suck at spraying. I only sprayed primer bc it makes for less sanding than rolling.. the awlgrip I will roll and tip.


----------



## devrep

I can see rolling the non skid but I hope you're going to spray the hull, not roll it.


----------



## lsunoe

@Travis Smith heres a stern pic of my buddy’s 2001 16 Waterman Mosquito Lagoon. Not sure if this helps or not.


----------



## 17376

Thank you for the picture!!! It does help and with chris’ Advice.

I actually was planning on rolling and tipping... that’s the only way I have ever painted a boat.. besides spraying primer.. that is the only way my friend Mike does his painting on boats. And his boats come out incredible. Here is his post and some of his work.. https://www.microskiff.com/threads/bateau-sk14-for-sale.47071/


@seapro17sv


----------



## DuckNut

Travis,
If you spent less time on social media and more time on the project, we would be looking at pictures of you posing with fish.

And this darkness thing, that is why Edison invented light bulbs.


----------



## 17376

That’s true!! Hell who needs sleep.. i can sleep when I die.. I’ll pull it out front under the street light and go ahead paint it tonight while its raining.. what’s a little water! Lmao!


----------



## devrep

Travis Smith said:


> Thank you for the picture!!! It does help and with chris’ Advice.
> 
> I actually was planning on rolling and tipping... that’s the only way I have ever painted a boat.. besides spraying primer.. that is the only way my friend Mike does his painting on boats. And his boats come out incredible. Here is his post and some of his work.. https://www.microskiff.com/threads/bateau-sk14-for-sale.47071/
> 
> 
> @seapro17sv


Mike's boat does look good but a sprayed finish is really nice and isn't that hard to do. We used a cheap harbor freight spray gun on our last skiff refurbish and it came out really nice. We aren't experienced painters either. You could master this with some reading and study. Or find someone to help that paints. It would be a sweet finishing touch.


----------



## 17376

I may end up doing that.. I know I would have to get different converter for the awlgrip though.


----------



## DuckNut

Travis Smith said:


> I may end up doing that.. I know I would have to get different converter for the awlgrip though.


You already have the paint so find a pro to shoot it and have a perfect finish.

Hell- that would give you two - three more days on the innerweb.


----------



## 17376

I would rather spray it, screw it up, and have to redo it than to get someone to do something that I have completely built.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Travis, the wedges have to take the water and the compression which is not much. Anything that won’t rot or swell will do.
Rolling is a fine way to go. Get a helper to roll and you just tip. Buy a box or a dozen 2”-3” foam brushes and just do it. It will take 2-3 thin coats to get a really good finish but if you paint the hull light grey it covers so fast. Using other colors it could take 4 coats.
I just roll and tip till it’s covered stopping for 40 minutes between coats. Once she’s working a bit of Salt water makes her look great.


----------



## 17376

Thanks Chris!! I am using ice blue awlgrip which is like a super light almost white blue. I bought a gallon so I’m hoping that’s enough!!


----------



## Tigweld

More than enough for 2


----------



## lsunoe

Travis, where will you be running your wires for Nav lights and fuel line to the bow? Don't remember seeing anything about that in this thread but I definitely could've overlooked it


----------



## 17376

Everything will ran high and dry right under the gunnels....

I’m not saying i have a epoxy reaction.. this is what it looks like after dealing with it yesterday...


----------



## Guest

That looks like it is annoying! Definitely a reaction of some sort!


----------



## 17376

Yea it’s definitely annoying!!


----------



## seapro17sv

Travis Smith said:


> Yea it’s definitely annoying!!


Damn Travis, you're a lot uglier than when I saw you in October. I guess some people are more sensitive to the epoxy than others. A gallon of paint will do 2 or 3 boats, so no worries if you mess up somewhere and need to sand and repaint. As Chris said, lay the paint on really thin and tip lightly with a wide foam brush or a high quality natural bristle brush. Foam might be the best way to go though, so I'd try that first. Looks like you'll be fishing pretty soon. My buddy Don is moving along really fast as well, and started his deck last week. I'll post some pictures of his at some point, since I don't think he's taking many pictures. Mike


----------



## 17376

Thanks mike!! I think you have a tutorial on awlgrip on bateau right?

Don’s boat is looking really good!! How much are you helping him?


----------



## Chris Beutel

Travis Smith said:


> Everything will ran high and dry right under the gunnels....
> 
> I’m not saying i have a epoxy reaction.. this is what it looks like after dealing with it yesterday...
> 
> View attachment 41842


I had a similar reaction last week weekend when I was gluing in all the cleats. It was super hot and I was constantly wiping my eyes with my forearm. I think my eye lids got irritated by all the wiping and the little bit of epoxy fumes made it worse. Fortunately it was gone the next morning. 

You should be all sealed up soon so hopefully your eyes will get a break.


----------



## devrep

I hope you guys are protecting your lungs. Years of doing all kinds of sanding, grinding and inhaling various chemicals can take a toll. I'm dealing with it now.


----------



## 17376

Idk why it is affecting Me... it doesn’t bother my skin, just my eyes. I wear a respirator. I guess I’ll need goggles.


----------



## Cut Runner

That's rough..
Be aware the human body can only handle so much (everyone is tolerance is different but it's bad for you either way!!) Epoxy fumes ...
When you start reacting like that, that can mean you've reached your limit. Keep pushing it and you can and will fall into anaphylactic shock.
Be safe


----------



## devrep

This doesn't come with filters, you have to order the filter for your particular use but it has great reviews, esp people say it doesn't fog up. Will protected your eyes and lungs but its probably hot in there...https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007JZ1LG6/ref=biss_dp_t_buying_options


----------



## 17376

I am thinking about buying it. I’m sure wiping my face with my shirt probably doesn’t help any....

Both days I have got it I worked most of the day on it.


----------



## jonrconner

Are you using fans to blow through your work area? If not they’re cheap!
JC


----------



## mtoddsolomon

Not to derail too bad but, can someone explain roll and tip? Again, Travis this is awesome and every picture makes me want to go ahead and start so I'm soaking up as much knowledge as I can.


----------



## 17376

JC I have two shop fans blowing. It too isn’t an enclosed area. 

MTodd when you roll paint it creates bubbles. So as you roll it, you come behind the roller and lightly tip it to pop the bubbles. It will flow out itself and it’s very hard to see if it rolled or sprayed.


----------



## seapro17sv

Travis Smith said:


> Thanks mike!! I think you have a tutorial on awlgrip on bateau right?
> 
> Don’s boat is looking really good!! How much are you helping him?


At some time in the past I've tried to explain the roll and tip method on the Bateau forum, but I don't know when, or how to find it...Don is pretty much doing the entire build alone, I helped lay out the molds, and glass the bottom, but otherwise I'm there more for advice and guidance if needed. We live about 25 minutes apart and have different schedules, and besides that he's quite capable without my help. I know when I built my first boat I didn't want any help, and I think we're similar in that way. I think most of us builders want complete control of the process, have our own ideas of how to approach each step, and mostly need some advice and feedback at times to avoid any mistakes that would waste time and materials. He's determined to have it completed within a month, and ready for some fall fishing, so you're both on similar schedules. Hope your allergic reaction clears up quickly so you can get back on it. Be careful. Mike


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Travis And all,
To avoid fumes the only way to totally avoid them is to wear a full face mask. Your eyeballs are an open Mucous membrane that will absorb all chemicals directly into your system. Fortunately for me I learned this early on.
I use these masks when the air flow is constrained. At 60years old if I open a can of awlgrip my stomach starts to hurt. I have been carefull and maybe have a strong system but I feel everyone should be very carefull with these chemicals.
I am glad to be pretty much done with this type of work with these products.
Wear the full face mask, sweat like crazy but survive.


----------



## Guest

Amen Chris!


----------



## yobata

mtoddsolomon said:


> Not to derail too bad but, can someone explain roll and tip? Again, Travis this is awesome and every picture makes me want to go ahead and start so I'm soaking up as much knowledge as I can.







Around the 1:15 mark


----------



## lemaymiami

Here's another tip for anyone doing hot sweaty work and having eye problems... Instead of wiping your eyes, keep a small water bottle with a spray head (the kind that folks use to mist the leaves on indoor plants), have the one with the problem close their eyes then liberally spray off the entire face until it runs with clean fresh water - then dry it off with paper towels by pressing them up to the face without rubbing at all... I learned long ago that most of the skin protection on your face will drip into your eyes when you sweat - and nearly blind you - rubbing your eyes only makes it worse... That fresh water rinse off is an almost instant cure for nasty chemicals in sunscreens in your eyes... Another of those "ask me how I know" moments...

None of this is for folks that are working with fiberglass or related stuff for a living. Folks in the "business" should listen to what Chris Morejohn had to say... For serious exposure to fumes go to the same kind of rig that pros use when operating in a spray booth... or wish you did as you get older....


----------



## Guest

PPE is a must! I am suffering some of the consequences of these chemicals now at the ripe old age of 40! I make sure to use my ppe always. When I was younger though, I worked at a sport boat production plant and was told a respirator wasn’t needed because the shop had great ventilation... it did, but I wish I had been more dilligent in my request for mor ppe!
Also, the visual and irritating symptoms are only whats on the surface It’s what it’s doing to your organs “liver, kidneys, lungs” that leaves the lasting effects guys!


----------



## 17376

yobata said:


> Around the 1:15 mark


This video is wrong. You will get sags if you go horizontal instead of vertical.


----------



## 17376

https://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=62330


----------



## lsunoe

Any updates for us Travis?


----------



## 17376

Nope no updates lol


----------



## 17376




----------



## lsunoe

Man looks awesome. Can't wait to find some time to start one


----------



## devrep

man if I did that here right now there would be 10,000 love bugs in the paint. They were insane on the garage side of my house yesterday.


----------



## bryson

Looks great!! Haha I was itching to see more than just that little teaser you posted on Instagram!

What paint did you use? Spray or roll and tip?

Man, I'd be going nuts just wanting to float this thing with a bunch of sandbags or something to see how she sits. Congrats on a big milestone!


----------



## texasag07

Wow that some clean work!


----------



## 17376

Thanks guys!! Luckily the fan is keeping most of the bugs off.. 

I rolled and tipped with awlgrip. It’s really an excellent paint. I will say that I like Interlux perfection better though. And it was a lot cheaper.

She will see the water this weekend.


----------



## Guest

That is awesome Travis! I bet you are like a proud new popps right now! So shiney and smoove!


----------



## 17376

Lol I’m sick of seeing this thing!! 

Thanks man


----------



## jonrconner

The hull looks fantastic, really great job!
It looks like you’re skipping the reverse spray rails? Wondering why.
JC


----------



## DuckNut

Bravo brother, bravo!!!!!!


----------



## Guest

ChrisMorejohn will be proud! She really does look great! Do ya got a name for her yet?


----------



## trekker

Looks awesome !


----------



## Indoman

Wow Looks great. How many coats is that?


----------



## 17376

Thanks guys!!! I don’t have a name lol.

That was two coats. I will put several more on.


----------



## Smackdaddy53

Well done, she looks great!


----------



## 17376

Thanks man


----------



## 17376

This is the final coat. I tried my best to get as much reflection as I could.


----------



## Guest

Looks great dude! Now, flip, finish, fish!


----------



## 17376

I will probably flip it tomorrow. I think it should be dry by then? What do you think? I have sea dek coming Friday to scan the topside and cockpit. I will definitely sea dek the cockpit, all the side walls, bulk heads and rod holders. Idk if I will do the deck yet or not.


----------



## Guest

What color sea deck are you going with?


----------



## Guest

Let it sit a few days before flipping. No point gettin in too big a hurry now.
Also not sure if you know this or not, but wait a few months before applying any wax or polish. This will give it the time it needs for the paint to completely off gas. Waxing too soon can cause solvent pop.


----------



## 17376

I don’t really know what color of sea deck I want to go with. The boat is a really light blue. What color do you all think I need suggestions.


Also I have a couple of runs. What is the best way to get these out? I know wet sand. But with a buffet after or do a clear coat?

And no I didn’t know that


----------



## bryson

I have no experience with Awlgrip personally, but I don't think you typically cut/buff it. Sounds like @Boatbrains might know though.

I really just wanted to chime in to say congrats! Looks like you're getting close to never seeing it upside down again!


----------



## Guest

Travis, which awlgrip did you use?


----------



## 17376

Bryson thanks man!! I won’t have it flipped back over until I rip a hole in it with oysters.

https://boatbuildercentral.com/proddetail.php?prod=awlgrip-topcoat


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Travis Smith said:


> I don’t really know what color of sea deck I want to go with. The boat is a really light blue. What color do you all think I need suggestions.
> 
> 
> Also I have a couple of runs. What is the best way to get these out? I know wet sand. But with a buffet after or do a clear coat?
> 
> And no I didn’t know that


Looks great, as for a few runs my advice is to not show anyone where they are and forget about it. Salt water does wonders. 99% of people will never notice once up right. 
Let it sit a few days to harden. As advised let it gas off for a month at least. 
If the runs bother you after a month the paint will be real hard then you can hard sand them down to 600-800 grit and buff out. Awlgrip is a pain. Emron and automotive paints are way better at buffing. I would just not bother till later.


----------



## Guest

Travis, after reading over the product data sheet I have to advise against a cut and buff. Manufacturer says don’t do it! Now, if you can’t live with the runs try this. Mix up some more paint and apply to some scrap material deliberately making it run. Make a nib by taping the ends of a new razor and scrape the cured sags down to the tape level. Now wetsand out the rest of the sag, and buff. This will show you what your results will be on the hull.


----------



## Guest

Chris Morejohn said:


> Looks great, as for a few runs my advice is to not show anyone where they are and forget about it. Salt water does wonders. 99% of people will never notice once up right.
> Let it sit a few days to harden. As advised let it gas off for a month at least.
> If the runs bother you after a month the paint will be real hard then you can hard sand them down to 600-800 grit and buff out. Awlgrip is a pain. Emron and automotive paints are way better at buffing. I would just not bother till later.


Well said Chris!


----------



## devrep

do yourself a favor and don't over do the sea dek. The stuff rots in the sun after several years, gets goey and is a pain to remove.


----------



## 17376

Thanks guys!! Might not see them much once it’s flipped due to where they are. 

SeaDek really it’s that bad?


----------



## texasag07

If the boat is kept covered when not in use the sea deck will last for quite a few years.


----------



## seapro17sv

Travis Smith said:


> Thanks guys!! Might not see them much once it’s flipped due to where they are.
> 
> SeaDek really it’s that bad?


Travis your hull looks great, and as Chris said, no one will ever see a few runs once the boat is flipped and in use. My FS18 paint job is not as good as yours and I can't even remember where the runs are located, and have to look close to find them. Besides, if you're really going to fish this thing as it should be fished, you'll get some scratches soon enough. Awlgrip cannot be buffed out, their Awlcraft for spray only can be buffed and repaired. No need to ever wax even if it sits in the sun for years, it's not like gelcoat which gets chalky in the Florida sun pretty quick. My ketch still had a good shine 12 years after I painted it, and it was never covered from full sun exposure. Awlgrip is some tough stuff..... I'm not a fan of Seadeck either, having just a helm pad on my other boat. After a few years in the sun it fell apart, and it's no fun getting the old glue off, and besides it's stupid expensive.....I can't wait to see the finished boat. I'll post some pictures of Don's build soon, he's close to being finished as well. Mike


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Hey, last year in the Keys Brian Floyd gave me a Sea Deck sample to try out. I put three small rectangles in my Dinghy seat tops to try out. 
In the mean time I Watched the crew at Isla Marine redo or replace old Sea Deck with painted nonskid.
Now I have good friends that are making good $ in the Sea Deck Business so I’am sorry here....
But to me it’s the stupidest thing I have ever come across in the small Skiff world. My wife hates sitting on it, and we have just small 12”x18” pads that we have been trying out. It’s very hard to keep clean. Next time we paint the insides it’s going to be ground off.
I feel if you like it underfoot just wear Crocs.
It adds weight to skiffs for sure compared to a layer of Awlgrip and nonskid. Especially when wet. 
I can see the appeal for sure. It looks great in photos but in reality it’s a rubberized door matt.
I can’t belive I just said this all in public but I really dislike the stuff. Maybe I’am too old school. Nothing like a good non skid under bare feet in the morning.


----------



## 17376

Well that’s all I needed to know from you guys. I will stick to non skid then. Thanks for that. Saved me a couple thousand. Beer is on me now for you all lol!!

And thanks about the paint questions!


----------



## sjrobin

Travis Smith said:


> Thanks guys!! Might not see them much once it’s flipped due to where they are.
> 
> SeaDek really it’s that bad?


Yes, it is.


----------



## hunterbrown

I agree with the other posts on seadek. I bought a gladesmen that had the entire floor covered in old seadek and had to remove it all. Took several days to get all the glue off and it took a lot of gelcoat with it. I sanded it and repainted with awlgrip and was much happier. The only place I would consider putting it now is on platforms and small pads under the gunnels for reels. Works well on under gunnel rod holders too.


----------



## 17376

It’s coming along. It’s upright. And now I have a platform.


----------



## Guest

Didn’t take ya long to jump on that platform that probably fits near/if not perfect lol!


----------



## 17376

It does fit perfect!!


----------



## Guest

That’s awesome!


----------



## Tigweld

It fits the rounded transom?


----------



## Smackdaddy53

Looking great!


----------



## 17376

Thanks and yes


----------



## kamy329

now that you have it flipped spend enough time to get the decks as close to perfect as you can, then spray it with awlgrip awlcraft, it can be wet sanded and buffed. you will be looking at the results every time you get on the boat. awlcraft is a spray only product that can be touched up and buffed out for years


----------



## 17376




----------



## Guest

Well, how’d she do?


----------



## 17376

It ran 27 with 4 of us. I need a new prop I am on the rev limiter. I think I can get 30 out of with 4 of us.. overall did great.


----------



## Guest

I’d say that’s pretty good! Get it finished up before propping. I bet you’ll see 35 when she is propped right! You’re losing a lot bouncin the rev limiter!


----------



## 17376

Yea I definitely will wait! It’s a 9 pitch on there


----------



## Guest

Yeah, that’s a lil’ torque monster. Get a tach hooked up. I bet she’ll turn a 12p or 13p.


----------



## 17376

Oh yea it will jump right on plane!

Here’s my platform back from powder coat.


----------



## Guest

Heck, looks like she’s only draftin about 3-4 inches with you in the back and under way!


----------



## 17376

That is my friend in it there at the ramp. I was trying to get a better picture but that was it. Started getting dark


----------



## Guest

Still, draft looks good!


----------



## 17376

Absolutely!! Once it’s all done we will see a true draft. I will take it to a sand bar and measure


----------



## kamy329

boat looks great, hope you take my advise and look at Awlcraft2000 it really is not that hard to spray, and if you have any runs it is easy to wet sand and buff to a mirror finish.


----------



## Guest

I agree with the awlcraft recommendation. But I like to spray!


----------



## Chris Beutel

Travis Smith said:


> View attachment 42950
> View attachment 42946
> View attachment 42948


She looks great Travis! I can't wait to see the finished product.


----------



## trekker

Travis, sorry for asking another question............ i was re reading the thread and noticed how clean your cuts were on the foam.what did you use to cut them?

Thanks.


----------



## 17376

I won’t be using awlcraft as I’m not spending more money on a different painting. I have enough paint to finish the boat and that’s what I’m using. The run I did have on the outside I cut off with my pocket knife. And you can barely tell it’s there. Thanks for the recommendations! 

Chris it will be done soon. I will meet up with you all one afternoon and take y’all fishing and let you check it out.

Trek no worries on the questions. I will answer all of them. If you need answer quickly you can always PM me your number and I’ll text you back quicker.

As far as cutting it, I used my pocket knife a lot and I used my table saw to rip it.


----------



## kamy329

Travis Smith said:


> I won’t be using awlcraft as I’m not spending more money on a different painting. I have enough paint to finish the boat and that’s what I’m using. The run I did have on the outside I cut off with my pocket knife. And you can barely tell it’s there. Thanks for the recommendations!
> 
> Chris it will be done soon. I will meet up with you all one afternoon and take y’all fishing and let you check it out.
> 
> Trek no worries on the questions. I will answer all of them. If you need answer quickly you can always PM me your number and I’ll text you back quicker.
> 
> As far as cutting it, I used my pocket knife a lot and I used my table saw to rip it.


completely understand I did not mean to come across as telling you what to use, your boat looks great. I just really like awlcraft and know how easy it is to use


----------



## Guest

Travis, by all means use what paint ya got already! It’s great paint! Was just backing kamy329 ‘s suggestion for anyone reading and considering a build. Both are great paints at the end of the day!


----------



## 17376

I totally understand!! Next build lol!


----------



## Guest

Travis Smith said:


> I totally understand!! Next build lol!


Just remember what kamy329 said, the Awlcraft has to be sprayed! This is where the Awlgrip like you are using really shines, roll/tip, watch it flow out and shine!


----------



## 17376

I didn’t know until yesterday that this awlgrip on a boat isn’t supposed to stay in the water for more than a few days. It’s known to create blisters. And I guess the other positive thing to awlcraft.


----------



## bryson

Looks great! Can't wait to see how it performs after you play around with props! I think that motor you picked up is going to be perfect.


----------



## 17376

The engine is more than enough. Thanks..


----------



## Backcountry 16

What motor are you going with?


----------



## lsunoe

Backcountry 16 said:


> What motor are you going with?


He picked up an awesome 30hp 3 cyl Yamaha 2 smoke


----------



## Backcountry 16

lsunoe said:


> He picked up an awesome 30hp 3 cyl Yamaha 2 smoke


Probably rick88 old motor


----------



## 17376

No not his old engine. This one is in mint condition from a friend in north Georgia


----------



## Backcountry 16

Travis Smith said:


> No not his old engine. This one is in mint condition from a friend in north Georgia


Cool can't wait to see it done you guy's that build these boats amaze me


----------



## 17376

Thanks man!


----------



## 17376

Coming along.


----------



## Rick hambric

looking good!!!


----------



## 17376

Thanks man!


----------



## Guest

Looks great Travis, your gonna enjoy this one!


----------



## bryson

Looks really good!

Did you end up deciding to put a floor in? I don't see the chines on the interior anymore.

If so, did you build a stringer and have it raised, or just bond another core panel directly to the outer core?


----------



## devrep

hatch gutters look great, did you run drains thru hull or into the cockpit? You using springs, gas struts or friction hinges? I installed the moonlight type springs on the hatches of both my boats. Cost effective and work well.


----------



## 17376

I did end up putting a sub floor in. It was kind of a surprise for y’all. That’s why it wasn’t documented here. 

I made a stringer system and put in it. I didn’t make it to CM specs. I made it like I have on other boats. Then I used 3/4” glassed 10oz on each side. Then it was bonded to the stringers and the chines.

I do t have any springs or struts on the hatches yet. I ran the drains into the cockpit. 2 1” drains on each hatch.


----------



## Smackdaddy53

Travis Smith said:


> I did end up putting a sub floor in. It was kind of a surprise for y’all. That’s why it wasn’t documented here.
> 
> I made a stringer system and put in it. I didn’t make it to CM specs. I made it like I have on other boats. Then I used 3/4” glassed 10oz on each side. Then it was bonded to the stringers and the chines.
> 
> I do t have any springs or struts on the hatches yet. I ran the drains into the cockpit. 2 1” drains on each hatch.


Just an idea, my Maverick bow hatch gutter and recessed bow light use drain tubes and are plumbed into the under gunnel rod tubes so there are no drain fittings on the bulkhead. I see no issues with it like this and it’s clean.


----------



## bryson

Travis Smith said:


> I did end up putting a sub floor in. It was kind of a surprise for y’all. That’s why it wasn’t documented here.
> 
> I made a stringer system and put in it. I didn’t make it to CM specs. I made it like I have on other boats. Then I used 3/4” glassed 10oz on each side. Then it was bonded to the stringers and the chines.
> 
> I do t have any springs or struts on the hatches yet. I ran the drains into the cockpit. 2 1” drains on each hatch.


Nice! I know you were on the fence about adding a floor or not -- what helped make the decision to add it?

Also, did you happen to get any pictures of that process?


----------



## No Bait / Lures Only

Boatbrains said:


> Yeah, that’s a lil’ torque monster. Get a tach hooked up. I bet she’ll turn a 12p or 13p.


I have a 13pitch solas if you need.


----------



## Chris Beutel

Travis Smith said:


> Coming along.
> 
> View attachment 43708
> View attachment 43710
> View attachment 43712


Looking really good Travis!


----------



## 17376

Thanks man!!


----------



## 17376

Push pole on, seats, and all the drain hoses done.


----------



## Pole Position

Looks great --- really think you made the right call on the width of the gunnels.


----------



## 17376




----------



## Guest

Looks amazing Travis, that’s something to be proud of brother!


----------



## Guest

No cad program, no cnc router, no big shop full of the latest and greatest tools and technology... just a desire to build, a set of plans, and the heart and mindset to follow through and forge ahead! Congratulations and I hope she’s everything you hoped for when starting this build!


----------



## Smackdaddy53

She’s a peach! That has to be satisfying...and that 2 stroke!


----------



## Rick hambric

She’s georgous!


----------



## makin moves

Amazing build. Enjoy it!


----------



## lsunoe

Took exactly 5 months to the day. Amazing work man. You should be proud of this one.


----------



## Fishshoot

WOW!! That is great lookin skiff! Awesome job on the build!


----------



## Hardluk81

Just in time for some flooded grass. Go get some scratches on it!


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Congratulations Travis, 
I can tell you all that I am as excited as you all are at seeing this beauty coming to life than you can imagine. What Travis has shown us all ( with a bunch of other builders of these skiffs and others designs almost done) is that all it takes is good ole American get it done work ethic. Anyone can build a world class Skiff, it just takes a bit of cash, and some hours. This project took 5 months of part time work, time away from fishing, family, relaxing and well, life but it’s over and now this craft can start making its way. 

To all that can take a bit of time out of your life, all my past hull designs are on my blog..hogfishdesign.wordpress.com for anyone to download and build from.

Also, Travis had enough time left over during his build to provide a fantastic feed back account of it, on social media, in 3 -4 venues answering all questions and ah.... have a kid in the oven. 

Thanks Travis


----------



## Backwater

Travis Smith said:


>


Freakin sweet!!!


----------



## Guest

Chris Morejohn said:


> Congratulations Travis,
> I can tell you all that I am as excited as you all are at seeing this beauty coming to life than you can imagine. What Travis has shown us all ( with a bunch of other builders of these skiffs and others designs almost done) is that all it takes is good ole American get it done work ethic. Anyone can build a world class Skiff, it just takes a bit of cash, and some hours. This project took 5 months of part time work, time away from fishing, family, relaxing and well, life but it’s over and now this craft can start making its way.
> 
> To all that can take a bit of time out of your life, all my past hull designs are on my blog..hogfishdesign.wordpress.com for anyone to download and build from.
> 
> Also, Travis had enough time left over during his build to provide a fantastic feed back account of it, on social media, in 3 -4 venues answering all questions and ah.... have a kid in the oven.
> 
> Thanks Travis


Well said Chris!


----------



## trekker

Very nice. Thanks for sharing the build.


----------



## devrep

looks awesome!


----------



## devrep

hey if you're going to dry launch maybe raise the forward end of the bunks higher than the stern to facilitate sliding off. Look at any HB on its trailer.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Donny Stickney’s CONCHFISH is going to hit the water tomorrow. Donny started on his build 2-1/2 months ago building part time. He has built in my designed in keellets on the lower Chines. We will all see what they do soon.


----------



## LowHydrogen

Helluva build!! Congrats!!


----------



## Rookiemistake

I miss my tiller. How easy was it? Cause yall make it look simple.


----------



## yobata

Very nice! Now you just need the vinyl stickers


----------



## devrep

needs a dark side decal...


----------



## Chris Beutel

Travis Smith said:


> View attachment 44086
> View attachment 44088
> View attachment 44090
> View attachment 44092
> View attachment 44094


She looks sweet. I can't wait to see it in person. I built my hatch frames tonight. Slowly getting there.


----------



## 17376

Thanks guys! Sorry it has taken me so long to reply back. I have been running the boat all weekend. I fished out of it this morning for about an hour between rain. I was able to put one red and one trout in the boat. 

I got 34 mph out of the boat. That was safety gear, Yeti 35 full of water, and 2 people. I have some pictures of it in the water. It was floating pretty level and ankle deep. I am sure CM will chime in, it was about an inch above the bottom chine. Im thinking about 3 1/2 - 4". 

I can leave the scuppers open and it stays dry without people in it. 

CM couldn't say it any better. I set my mind and did it. 

I do have decals coming. Eric Kimes will be posting information on here about anyone who wants stickers or shirts. I had a decal made for the bulkhead and custom FL numbers. They should be here this week. 

I wouldn't say the build was hard but just time consuming and irritating at times. 

I will be adding toe kicks around the bow here soon. Once all of this rain is cleared this week. 

Thanks for all the compliments and feedback. I am very thankful for you all and the information you have given me. 

@Chris Morejohn And Chris has steered me in the right direction and gave me his opinions many of times. I am very glad to have someone like CM to provide me with this. 


I will continue to provide stuff as I go along and other things I add. Trolling motor, gps and other things to come. Oh and fish pictures.


----------



## Backcountry 16

Travis the boat turned out beautiful you should be very proud of her. My hats off to you.


----------



## 17376

Thanks man. I am very proud of it.


----------



## Guest

Told ya she’d hit 35 lol! That’s awesome man!


----------



## 17376

34 isn’t 35 lmao!!!! It’s cruising on this little thing.


----------



## 17376




----------



## 17376

First feesh!


----------



## DuckNut

Great job Travis.

I see a winter project...paint that motor to match.


----------



## 17376

I wouldn’t touch that engine. It’s all original and in mint shape.


----------



## Guest

Travis Smith said:


> 34 isn’t 35 lmao!!!! It’s cruising on this little thing.


Give it time, you’ll learn her little secrets and be hitten it lol! She just needs a little massaging to get there!


----------



## 17376

Lol I thought I would by taking a person and cooler out but I loss speed


----------



## Rookiemistake

Man that is clean. I am jealous of that skiff. Ive cought reds on lures ive built and flies ive tied but damn on a boat ive built would be on another level. Awesome design and clean lines congrats
And thats faster speed than i get out of my bt osprey with a 50


----------



## 17376

Thanks man! I see you’re inJax. I’m sure you will see me around. I fish a lot. 

It probably weighs around 275-300.


----------



## Guest

Rookiemistake said:


> Man that is clean. I am jealous of that skiff. Ive cought reds on lures ive built and flies ive tied but damn on a boat ive built would be on another level. Awesome design and clean lines congrats
> And thats faster speed than i get out of my bt osprey with a 50


Well get yourself a set of plans, some resin, cloth, core, and paint and start a thread! We’ll help from here lol!


----------



## 17376

I like the sound of that.


----------



## Rookiemistake

Whats the total cost if yall dont mind


----------



## Guest

Materials cost I couldn’t say, I could estimate from dimensions though. But the forum help is free as long as ya don’t mind a couple of us bein smart a$$es now and then!


----------



## Devin1128

Hey Travis this is Donny in ormond beach that's my Conch Fish I just finished that CM posted on here . I just wanted to say thank you for posting all of your hard work and answering so many questions . I followed your build from the beginning and it helped me tremendously and really inspired me to do one , I now have the skiff I've wanted for a long time and would have not known about this build or have had the confidence to do one on my own if you wouldn't have started this thread . So thank you very much and good luck with you future guiding career, if you ever want to come down and snook fish hit me up .


----------



## sjrobin

Travis Smith said:


> View attachment 44386
> View attachment 44388
> View attachment 44390
> View attachment 44392
> View attachment 44394
> View attachment 44396


What is the fuel tank capacity?


----------



## MAK

Devin1128 said:


> Hey Travis this is Donny in ormond beach that's my Conch Fish I just finished that CM posted on here . I just wanted to say thank you for posting all of your hard work and answering so many questions . I followed your build from the beginning and it helped me tremendously and really inspired me to do one , I now have the skiff I've wanted for a long time and would have not known about this build or have had the confidence to do one on my own if you wouldn't have started this thread . So thank you very much and good luck with you future guiding career, if you ever want to come down and snook fish hit me up .


I’ve been following all the hard work and great documentation that Travis has done with his build. Also trying to obsorb all the tips and information Chris Morejohn has been providing in this msg thread and through his links. It’s been hard to not jump in and start ordering materials and the plans. I’m in the middle of a couple auto restorations right now and I’m afraid if I start another project I’ll never complete any of them... The design looks like it would be perfect for around here so maybe one of these days I’ll get to tackle building such a nice skiff. When I saw you were in Ormond I checked again and see Travis is in Jax, a lot closer than I thought. I’m in Flagler Beach. Maybe I can get an up-close look sometime in the future. Congratulations to you both.


----------



## Rick hambric

Devin1128 said:


> Hey Travis this is Donny in ormond beach that's my Conch Fish I just finished that CM posted on here . I just wanted to say thank you for posting all of your hard work and answering so many questions . I followed your build from the beginning and it helped me tremendously and really inspired me to do one , I now have the skiff I've wanted for a long time and would have not known about this build or have had the confidence to do one on my own if you wouldn't have started this thread . So thank you very much and good luck with you future guiding career, if you ever want to come down and snook fish hit me up .


Donny, how bout post a vid on how the winglets work while on plane?? I’ve been wondering my arse off!!


----------



## Mountolive

Hi. 

My name is Eric Kimes. I'm part of the wood core Conchfish 16 build in Pompano Beach. The wood core skiff is being built by a group of friends all working together. 

We got a Conchfish 16 logo design together. The design has been approved by Chris Morejohn. I attached pictures of the decals and tee shirt colors. Prices are as follows: Decal (either color) $11.00 / Short Sleeve Tee Shirt $20.00 / Long Sleeve Tee Shirt $25.00. The shirt colors and decal colors are shown in the attachment. These prices are before shipping. We aren't making money on the orders, just paying the cost for materials and set up at the shirt printer. Orders are being taken through Saturday October 13, 2018. Please indicate your size, short or long sleeve, and color. Payment by paypal if you want them shipped or cash with local pickup in the Pompano Beach FL area. My cell is 919-432-7112 if you want to send me a text. 

You can follow our wood core build on Instagram. The IG account we update to is @conchfish16 
facebook is Conchfish 16 Build Team

Sincerely, 
Eric


----------



## Jason

Travis what was your fiberglass experience prior to starting your build? These builds are making it very hard not to dive in as well.


----------



## yobata

Jason said:


> Travis what was your fiberglass experience prior to starting your build? These builds are making it very hard not to dive in as well.


----------



## GullsGoneWild




----------



## Guest

You won’t!


----------



## Devin1128

Will do Rick I should be close to done with break in on the motor this weekend , I can't wait to see what happens myself , and Mac you can check out my skiff sometime soon if you want I spend a lot of time in the tomoka marsh during the winter not far from you .


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Rick hambric said:


> Donny, how bout post a vid on how the winglets work while on plane?? I’ve been wondering my arse off!!


Rick, Donny just sent me an email telling me that it spins on a dime at speed, tracks great when poling, he’s getting 25 mph with athe 25 hp at half throttle.
I posted a few years ago on my blogs how to add a simple keel to help in the turns. He is the first to follow my lead. Very easy to do on any Hells Bay or other skiff. Cost next to nothing.


----------



## MAK

Devin1128 said:


> Will do Rick I should be close to done with break in on the motor this weekend , I can't wait to see what happens myself , and Mac you can check out my skiff sometime soon if you want I spend a lot of time in the tomoka marsh during the winter not far from you .


Yeah, I’ve been down to Tomoka a couple times in my boat. It’s a 5-6 mile run. Would love to see it this winter. Thanks


----------



## ReelFisher

Say it ain't so! https://jacksonville.craigslist.org/boa/d/16-flats-boat/6725100063.html


----------



## 17376




----------



## 17376

Sale pending


----------



## Guest

On to the next???


----------



## 17376

Something a little bigger. Definitely sticking with something of chris’


----------



## hcft

did it sell? No idea you were in Jax! I would have loved to see it.


----------



## flyclimber

hcft said:


> did it sell? No idea you were in Jax! I would have loved to see it.


I'm in JAX too I would absolutely wanna see it before it leaves to a new home!


----------



## 17376

I have a deposit on it. I could probably meet tomorrow afternoon guys


----------



## flyclimber

Show it at Blackfly's tie night!


----------



## makin moves

I like builds! Sell away. Then get to work! We are waiting. You finished your build and the president thread took off again. Way to go.


----------



## 17376

If someone buys CM’s plans and pays me to build it, I can get another build thread going quicker  

That sucks going from something that is exciting like a build thread to a political debate. That’s why I don’t watch TV. I spend most of my time in the woods or on the water.


----------



## Chad Cohn

Maybe I missed something but why are you selling already?


----------



## Smackdaddy53

Chad Cohn said:


> Maybe I missed something but why are you selling already?


Some people have a sickness...


----------



## 17376

Haha


----------



## Backwater

Travis, I got to thinkin. Maybe you should have pulled a mold of of all your finished glass parts before you sold it. Then you could have went into production and many of these boys would buy one off of you.


----------



## EdK13

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Some people have a sickness...


Hmmmm... Ya don't say...


----------



## 17376

I still have it so I think I will do that.


----------



## Guest

Yhat is a great idea!


----------



## Hardluk81

Do you still have the strongback?


----------



## 17376

Yes I have everything


----------



## Hardluk81

If you want to sell it shoot me a PM with a price.


----------



## Boykintom

Travis, you may have posted a list of your expenses for this build, but if so I didn't see it. Do you have a ballpark figure on what it would cost to duplicate your build? By the way, you do great work!


----------



## Sublime

Just read all 36 pages and all I can say is wow. 

@Travis Smith , were you happy with the height you built your strong back? If I attempt this, I may look at welding a steel frame with big casters so I can roll it outside in good weather. I could also make it where the height is adjustable and if I got really high tech, I could make it tilt. That would save a LOT of bending over.


----------



## Fishtex

You could build a strong back onto a boat trailer. It would require less material and the trailer frame is already square and true so you could temporarily bolt some long 2x6’s, a few cross members, and then your molds. You can roll it out on the drive way to work and roll it back in. When it’s time to flip, bolt the bunks, etc back on. No need to build a cradle.


----------



## Sublime

Plans received over the weekend. When I get my strongback and stations up, I'll start my own thread.


----------



## Guest

Sublime said:


> Plans received over the weekend. When I get my strongback and stations up, I'll start my own thread.


Awesome, looking forward to the build! Wood or composites?


----------



## Sublime

Boatbrains said:


> Awesome, looking forward to the build! Wood or composites?



Foam core. I might build it out at 17 ft though.


----------



## Guest

Sublime said:


> Foam core. I might build it out at 17 ft though.


Nice!


----------



## Tx_Whipray

Sublime said:


> Foam core. I might build it out at 17 ft though.


Subscribed. 
Too bad you don't live closer...I'd be happy to come by and drink beer and point out all the stuff you're doing wrong.


----------



## sjrobin

Tx_Whipray said:


> Subscribed.
> Too bad you don't live closer...I'd be happy to come by and drink beer and point out all the stuff you're doing wrong.


Let me know when you need help, PM your address.


----------



## kamakuras

Fishtex said:


> You could build a strong back onto a boat trailer. It would require less material and the trailer frame is already square and true so you could temporarily bolt some long 2x6’s, a few cross members, and then your molds. You can roll it out on the drive way to work and roll it back in. When it’s time to flip, bolt the bunks, etc back on. No need to build a cradle.


The good thing about building the cradle is you can turn it into a table to build your deck.


----------



## Sublime

kamakuras said:


> The good thing about building the cradle is you can turn it into a table to build your deck.


Yeah, I'm going to just build an all wood strongback. And like you said, I can take my stations off and lay down door skins or whatever I come up with to do my cap on. I _do_ want to put it all on wheels though so I don't have to fill my garage and everything in it up with dust when I do my fairing etc
.


----------



## KurtActual

Man, if I knew the first thing about any of this, I'd build one too. Such an attractive hull. Sublime, you're just down the road from me, would love to see yours when you finish!


----------



## Sublime

KurtActual said:


> Man, if I knew the first thing about any of this, I'd build one too. Such an attractive hull. Sublime, you're just down the road from me, would love to see yours when you finish!



You’re welcome to see the process anytime after I get started.


----------



## kamakuras

Sublime said:


> Yeah, I'm going to just build an all wood strongback. And like you said, I can take my stations off and lay down door skins or whatever I come up with to do my cap on. I _do_ want to put it all on wheels though so I don't have to fill my garage and everything in it up with dust when I do my fairing etc
> .


The name escapes me but there is this particle board covered in smooth white skin at Home Depot and Lowe’s that I have been using that as long as you keep it dry is the best. Just wax it well and tape the joints. Get at me on IG if you need anything.
mantisinshore


----------



## mtoddsolomon

kamakuras said:


> The name escapes me but there is this particle board covered in smooth white skin at Home Depot and Lowe’s that I have been using that as long as you keep it dry is the best. Just wax it well and tape the joints. Get at me on IG if you need anything.
> mantisinshore


ive been following closely, your build is looking amazing! The seams between the foam is incredible!


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## Cut Runner

Melamine. You can do one better by sanding it perfectly smooth with a d/a and 320 grit then wax or pva


kamakuras said:


> The name escapes me but there is this particle board covered in smooth white skin at Home Depot and Lowe’s that I have been using that as long as you keep it dry is the best. Just wax it well and tape the joints. Get at me on IG if you need anything.
> mantisinshore


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## C Brueckner

Sublime said:


> You’re welcome to see the process anytime after I get started.


I work down in Freeport and would really enjoy swinging by sometime to see your progress. Im tossing around the idea of doing a build also (Like everyone following this thread lol). Having a local build to follow would be really great with seeing first hand what it takes to build one of these one off skiffs.

Corey,


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## Collin Elrod

Corey, I actually live down in Richwood and am starting my build, I’m about done cutting out the stations and am going to build the strong back soon. You are welcome to come by and look whenever!


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## C Brueckner

Collin Elrod said:


> Corey, I actually live down in Richwood and am starting my build, I’m about done cutting out the stations and am going to build the strong back soon. You are welcome to come by and look whenever!


That would be great, Thanks man.


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## Guest

I noticed a lot of questions about lofting on here and thought this video might help some folks with their builds. I’m not sure if @Chris Morejohn drawings and offsets are done in the same fashion but maybe he or @Travis Smith can chime back in. This video is for a canoe yes but might help you folks understand better what is going on with all those numbers. Hope it helps, James


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## Sublime

Collin Elrod said:


> Corey, I actually live down in Richwood and am starting my build, I’m about done cutting out the stations and am going to build the strong back soon. You are welcome to come by and look whenever!


Cool, I’m just up the road 5 or 10 minutes. I’m starting to mark out my stations today. I’ll message my cell to you.


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## Chris Morejohn

Jumping in here one last time. 
I will be off sailing the very remote South Pacific in a couple weeks and will be out of WiFi range for the next 10 months. So I won’t be on here till next August.
I want to thank everyone that’s joined the CONCHFISH build family and all of the rest of you all for helping out with great advice. 
It would be great if the others starting their builds just added onto this thread and then all the info and experiences would be on one thread. Just a thought.
For all the buyers of the CONCHFISH plans I can be reached via the link I will make sure you all get using my Garmin Enreach.
For anyone that wants to purchase a set of plans you can contact my partner Nathan Shawl [email protected] to receive them and ask any questions about them.
Also anyone building from the plans can email Nathan any questions if needed.
My wife Rachel reads my emails and she can also direct questions to me via my Garmin setup if needed.
I also want to say if there is anyone building one of these skiffs by just using my blog site I would love to know to add to the CONCHFISH family list. Right now there are 22 sets of plans sold of this design.
I also want to thank the Micro Skiff site for enabling such a great site. 
There is nothing like building and using your own boat. Enjoy the process.


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## KurtActual

With Chris' approval, I began my own Conchfish. It's about a 1/16th size though.


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## Guest

KurtActual said:


> With Chris' approval, I began my own Conchfish. It's about a 1/16th size though.


I bet she floats in less than a half inch!


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## KurtActual

Haha weighs nothing!


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## flyclimber

Boatbrains said:


> I bet she floats in less than a half inch!


Take that Chittum!


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## D. C. Ward

Travis Smith said:


> I was able to get more done.
> View attachment 28702
> View attachment 28703
> View attachment 28704


How are you finishing it out at the stem? Letting them run long then cutting the angles on each side so they fit together?


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## jglidden

BUMP. Anyone considering a build should take the time to go through all 37 pages and copy and paste any comment from CM, Travis, and others about the build process into a word file that you can search with CRTL +F . Very valuable stuff. Thanks guys


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## Sublime

jglidden said:


> BUMP. Anyone considering a build should take the time to go through all 37 pages and copy and paste any comment from CM, Travis, and others about the build process into a word file that you can search with CRTL +F . Very valuable stuff. Thanks guys


Been doing that since I first saw Travis build his. I refer to my excel sheet often.


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## commtrd

Boatbrains said:


> Right, with probably the most famous speed trap on the planet between us!


I think the trap at Golden Meadows north of Fourchon would actually qualify for that one...


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## commtrd

It would be real neat to see one of CMs boats stretched out to 20’. Does he have any plans for a 20’ skiff, especially with a tunnel?


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## Fritz

commtrd said:


> It would be real neat to see one of CMs boats stretched out to 20’. Does he have any plans for a 20’ skiff, especially with a tunnel?


I thinks it’s been done, or something very close, might even be or become a production boat...

https://www.microskiff.com/threads/decided-to-build-a-boat.67188/


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## commtrd

Yes I already went thru that thread which was why asking if CM had plans for that 20' hull. That is a super good looking boat.


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## Chris Morejohn

commtrd said:


> Yes I already went thru that thread which was why asking if CM had plans for that 20' hull. That is a super good looking boat.


The hull in the thread is a great version the builder created himself with some influence from my past designs.
If wanting a finished skiff I would buy from him. Maybe he would sell bare hulls, but his deck build looks perfect.
Now if wanting a 20’ hull just take the design you like of mine, contact me and we could stretch the design of most all my skiffs that are 18’ long to start with.


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## Fritz

[QUOTE="Chris Morejohn, post: 640890, member: 7559"
Now if wanting a 20’ hull just take the design you like of mine, contact me and we could stretch the design of most all my skiffs that are 18’ long to start with.[/QUOTE]

Chris, if you were stretching a Chonch to 20’, would you stay with the same laminate schedule, three layers of 10oz inside and out up to the spray rails and two above... or would you change that?


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## Smackdaddy53

commtrd said:


> Yes I already went thru that thread which was why asking if CM had plans for that 20' hull. That is a super good looking boat.


I thought you already had money down on a Stilt? Fickle fickle


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## commtrd

I do but... the thought of rolling my own and maybe saving $20k (or more) well somewhat enticing. Plus the Stilt is 5' wide, and if I can get another 10 to 12" in width I would really like that a lot. The narrowness of the Stilt is the one thing that bothers me and it's a pretty big deal. And I have always wanted to build my own boat. Anyone can spend a bunch of money to buy a boat, but not many guys can say they fish on a boat they personally built. I think that matters a lot. Thinking about this a lot.


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## Chris Morejohn

Fritz said:


> [QUOTE="Chris Morejohn, post: 640890, member: 7559"
> Now if wanting a 20’ hull just take the design you like of mine, contact me and we could stretch the design of most all my skiffs that are 18’ long to start with.


Chris, if you were stretching a Chonch to 20’, would you stay with the same laminate schedule, three layers of 10oz inside and out up to the spray rails and two above... or would you change that?[/QUOTE]
Good question, the thing you and everyone that’s building a one off skiff has to consider is how, where you will use your skiff. It’s not hard to build a very strong lightweight skiff using lowtech cloths. But having a skiff that weighs from 300-400 lbs is great if fish protected places from wind and big chop. If too light you will get blown all over the place no matter what hull design you are in.
Production skiffs will for sure weigh more than what you the home builder can build. 
For a 20’ long skiff with a flat bottom I would be looking for this hull to weigh 550 lbs at the least or it will be a handful in a breeze to pole. Removing floors and side decks and building to my specs you will end up with a feather which in the right place will be a dream to pole, but not fun when in open water in a breeze.
So... to answer I would need to know the interior design of what’s wanted to come up with the lamination schedule to fit the length.
Everyone is obsessing over super light weights when they should be making up a weight and wish list first and then looking at the final build weight needed.
I visited the CONCHFISH16 last night of the YouTube video. This skiff has a wood strip hull with 1” thick cored deck, bulkheads and is built like a 30’ sport fish to Merritt standards. Its a super solid skiff that floats with 2 big guys aboard in 6” or less of water with the 30 Tohatsu and fully gassed up with gear aboard. It’s the skiff I would like to be on as an all round weight.
For guys that want a CF 20’ skiff length I would beg the guy that built the 20’ mold to sell hulls. It looks fantastic.


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## commtrd

I contacted that guy to see if he will build that hull with a tunnel. Personally I think a tunnel is very beneficial to have in this area.


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