# Splicing Split Fly Line



## nehlz (Aug 26, 2016)

Hey Guys,

Yesterday I had a great trip up to the lagoon, other than the fact I made a booboo and let a little bit of loose line drag over the side of my gunnel when I went to idle away, and my fly line got dragged into the water and into my prop - slicing it clean in 2 . 

Is there a legit way to make a secure, low profile splice? Luckily the break is in the running line.

Honestly I'm thinking I should just replace it for peace of mind and the fact the line is already beat up, but figured I'd ask and maybe someone can enlighten me. Breaking $90 fly line is painful.

BTW The line is the clear floating cortland liquid crystal 7 wt.

Thanks


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## Gervais (Nov 28, 2016)

I tried it once and it didn’t work out well for me. You tie a square knot in it, then place a piece of clear shrink tubing over the knot and the 1/2” long tag ends. Then you use a lighter to carefully heat the shrink tubing and melt the outer lair of the fly line but not the core. Then roll it on a flat surface smoothing the joined line. Last step is to carelfully cut off the shrink tubing which is not easy. I don’t know if this would even work with mono core but that’s all I could find on it in the past


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## nehlz (Aug 26, 2016)

Thanks Gervais - I was thinking if it was mono core you could strip back the outer layer (like stripping electrical wires) and blood knot the mono together, and doing the same clear heat shrink over that. Not sure if anyone has tried that. Stripping off the outer layer would keep the knot profile down and the heat shrink would act as the new outer layer.


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## SkiffsDoWha (Dec 23, 2016)

That sucks. I had a similar issue with my cat...pulled off the LQ Guide to clean it, turned my back for a moment and next thing I knew I had 15’ bitten off the back of the running line. I looked it over and said f-it I’m just reattaching the backing and moving on. Had it been much farther up I would have looked into stripping to the core/welding/using braided mono to splice. These lines are a little tricky to fix.


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## nehlz (Aug 26, 2016)

SkiffsDoWha said:


> That sucks. I had a similar issue with my cat...pulled off the LQ Guide to clean it, turned my back for a moment and next thing I knew I had 15’ bitten off the back of the running line. I looked it over and said f-it I’m just reattaching the backing and moving on. Had it been much farther up I would have looked into stripping to the core/welding/using braided mono to splice. These lines are a little tricky to fix.


Oh wow the cat's teeth sheared it clean off? That really sucks - my cats steal all of my natural tying materials. They love to tear up the deer hair haha.


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## Gervais (Nov 28, 2016)

nehlz said:


> Thanks Gervais - I was thinking if it was mono core you could strip back the outer layer (like stripping electrical wires) and blood knot the mono together, and doing the same clear heat shrink over that. Not sure if anyone has tried that. Stripping off the outer layer would keep the knot profile down and the heat shrink would act as the new outer layer.


Just keep in mind however you join it back together it’s probably only going to be 50% as strong at best with the type of knot you would need to use. Also, if it’s not really smooth it could catch a guide when fighting a fish and you could have bigger problems.


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## trekker (Sep 19, 2015)

Fold it over itself to make a loop. Use tying thread. Wrap tight. Add fleximent (or similar). Wrap some more. Add fleximent. Let dry.


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

Where in the running line is it. In other words, how far from you fly line tip (in front of the head) is it. What line did you say it is?


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## TheAdamsProject (Oct 29, 2007)

Cortland makes braided hollow mono just like those hollow core loops you can nail knot onto your line. It would create a chinese finger trap type of sleeve. I would cut a piece of the braided mono in about a 8" piece, run each piece of line 4" inside and nail knot each side a few times and since it is in your running line you should be ok. If it was in the head to would probably hinge on you pretty bad. I would give it a shot. https://www.cortlandline.com/collections/fly-line-extensions/products/braided-mono


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## ZaneD (Feb 28, 2017)

Let us know the results if you attempt the splice. Personally I would scrap the line and replace it, IMO we spend too much time and money on fishing to skimp on fly line. Use it to make croakies for your glasses or a braided lanyard for nippers


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## jimsmicro (Oct 29, 2013)

I like the shrink wrap idea but I wouldn't melt the outer casing of the fly line personally. I also wouldn't tie a square knot, maybe a uni to uni using a low amount of wraps since the line is such large diameter. Then I'd slide the shrink wrap over that and gently heat it being careful NOT to melt the fly line.


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## Finn Maccumhail (Apr 9, 2010)

I'd junk the line and get new but if you're absolutely committed the only way I can see that would result in the line still being smooth and functional would be to use a length of hollow core (Hollow Ace, etc), use the splicing tool to open it up on one end and feed the fly line into it, then cinch down with a nail knot and coat with zap-a-gap or the like. Then repeat with the other end of the fly line on the other end of the hollow core. And make sure to get the ends of the fly line as close to each other as possible so there's very little gap.


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## ZaneD (Feb 28, 2017)

ZaneD said:


> Let us know the results if you attempt the splice. Personally I would scrap the line and replace it, IMO we spend too much time and money on fishing to skimp on fly line. Use it to make croakies for your glasses or a braided lanyard for nippers


I would also add that IF I were to try a fly line splice, I would use a 4'-5' piece of 130# hollow core braid "finger trap" style with glue and whip finish on each end. Very similar to how you would splice a top shot or wind-on leader onto an offshore setup.


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## Finn Maccumhail (Apr 9, 2010)

ZaneD said:


> I would also add that IF I were to try a fly line splice, I would use a 4'-5' piece of 130# hollow core braid "finger trap" style with glue and whip finish on each end. Very similar to how you would splice a top shot or wind-on leader onto an offshore setup.


This is exactly what I was trying to say in my prior post.


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

I agree with most others about using hollow core, but I would lean towards the braided mono @nativejax suggested, since it will be a little stiffer than your typical braid.

If I were you, I would probably buy another line, and keep the repaired line as backup in case something like that happens again when you're on the water. It could be the difference between finishing out a day of fishing and going home early.


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## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

Where do you live? I can fix it for you if you are local and want to meet up. If it's in the running line far enough back that it's not going in and out of the guides on every cast it's not a big deal. The connection will still go through the guides easily but would be annoying if it's passing the guides on every cast. I would use 50 lb braided mono spliced to both sides, nail knotted down with invisibraid and glue. I use a similar spliced connection at the rear of most of my lines and have never had one fail.


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## nehlz (Aug 26, 2016)

Wow, 

Thanks for all of the messages and offers to help out. Lots of great people on here. After taking a look at the line again, I think the split may be too close to the head, wand after looking at the overall (rough) condition of the line I may just bite it and buy another one. I have other lines but really liked how I could get away with more with the clear line, I feel like you can present closer without them seeing it.

I will let you know if I decide to try to fix it.

Thanks

-Stephen


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