# wiring the tin boat



## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

If you bought cable meant for jumping batteries - it's probably pure copper... For a marine installation what you wanted was tinned copper wire... since it's much more corrosion resistant. When that pure copper goes bad on you - that's what you should get the next time...


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

lemaymiami said:


> tinned copper wire


Was expecting that.
Other than the heavy gauge it is and all the electrical components etc are for a boat/marine environment including the lugs on the 4 gauge. 

The connection on the battery wires is about as waterproof as it gets...


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Copper wire will wick moisture and corrode starting at the ends and work it’s way up the strands under the sheath. The first time you bend those connections the seal will break. Tinned wire is not too much more. You should be good for a few years just keep the terminals sprayed with CorrosionX or similar.


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> first time you bend those connections


should just flex the sealant I use...
lugs are tinned copper.

PS 
not saying tinned isn't the way to go.
but liked the plastic case they came in...
and might have been miss-priced, and I did mention to the clerk that they seemed to be pretty cheep.


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## fishnpreacher (Jul 28, 2018)

This is of no use to you, but just to share a funny what not to do. I have a friend who was wiring a tin boat, and wanted to use the boat itself as the ground, like the frame on a trailer. Would it work? Yes, but not recommended.


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## LowHydrogen (Dec 31, 2015)

fishnpreacher said:


> This is of no use to you, but just to share a funny what not to do. I have a friend who was wiring a tin boat, and wanted to use the boat itself as the ground, like the frame on a trailer. Would it work? Yes, but not recommended.


Holy balls Batman! Oof, can you say electrolysis! Basically just made the entire boat an anode.


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## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

I remember hearing of a gorgeous big Striker sportfisher (an all aluminum welded boat in the nearly fifty foot range years ago) that had a slight wiring problem that allowed electricity to flow through the hull and into the water... 

Seems one morning they came down to the dock and found bubbles all the way around the hull at the waterline... Never heard how bad it was or what they had to do to save her... Put simply, be very very careful about electrickery with an aluminum boat.... or it might just corrode out from under you... 

I had an aluminum skiff for seven or eight years starting in 1976 when we got it and rigged a complete "bonefish" interior. Fished that little skiff everywhere from Palm Beach down to Key West, caught a bunch of fish - and only had to put her back together three times.... Aluminum and saltwater is bad enough, pounding it as hard as we fished it wasn't a very good idea either... Like most of my best stories - I was a lot younger then...


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

Tin boat hull as the ground?
Could envision coming out one morning to find a bunch of rivets mysteriously missing 

Probably will post some pics next month of the completed rebuild, wiring included


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## fishnpreacher (Jul 28, 2018)

Yeah, I talked him through it. He was trying to save money, didn't have a whole lot of money to put into the boat. He had a troller up front directly wired to the battery, but wanted power to the back of the boat, and figured he could save money on the wire by using the hull as a ground


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

What are you using the solder for? IMO it should not be used on a boat as it will fracture with vibration. I'm pretty sure ABYC standards vote against it too. As far as using jumper cables go, as long as the ends of the cables were crimped with the proper tool and sealed they should last a few years.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

had a problem with my minn kota trolling motor a couple of years ago and it was corrosion creeping up the pure copper cables to the head. why on earth wouldn't they put tinned copper cables on a salt water trolling motor?


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

You can tin the ends and be good for longer than most of us if done properly fellas! I strip back the correct length, use paste flux, heat, more flux, heat, tin. The tinning will “wick” in a little way and stop the salt water from wicking up the wire. This method along with good quality adhesive lined heat shrink will seal up real well!


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## LowHydrogen (Dec 31, 2015)

JC Designs said:


> You can tin the ends and be good for longer than most of us if done properly fellas! I strip back the correct length, use paste flux, heat, more flux, heat, tin. The tinning will “wick” in a little way and stop the salt water from wicking up the wire. This method along with good quality adhesive lined heat shrink will seal up real well!


Do you ever use that liquid electrical tape under your heat shrink? It was popular on boats when I was a kid but you don't hear people talk about it much anymore.


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

LowHydrogen said:


> Do you ever use that liquid electrical tape under your heat shrink? It was popular on boats when I was a kid but you don't hear people talk about it much anymore.


I don’t. I use dielectric grease to act as a repellant should the heat shrink fail for some reason. I also try not to use but connector when splicing. I have my own way of doing a splice that is just as fast and secure.


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

I was going to put a drawer in the left hand side console but there just was no good places for these...


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

I added that black piece of ABS plastic between the battery switch and the aluminum side console panel. Just didn't like the idea of the connections so close to the metal. Got the two battery switch so I can add a second battery when I'm ready.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

mro said:


> I added that black piece of ABS plastic between the battery switch and the aluminum side console panel. Just didn't like the idea of the connections so close to the metal. Got the two battery switch so I can add a second battery when I'm ready.
> View attachment 140128


 Very smart move! Looks great


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

My replacement front nav light arrived... 
and I don't like it. The old one on the left side had an incandescent bulb corroded in place.









Little surgery










Now mounted in the old ones base.


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## fishnpreacher (Jul 28, 2018)

Nice work!


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