# suv float-on trailer fix info



## topnative2 (Feb 22, 2009)

I have the float-on trailer for my suv and I found that the setup was just not working for me. The trailer is an excellent rig but the front cross memeber is straight across which makes it necessary to completely sink the trailer to get the boat on. And, then you can not winch it tight w/o pulling forward to get the bow high enough to fit/snug in the stand.

The simple solution was to install a 12" roller on the cross member which allows the bow to roll across the cross member and the bow is then high enough to snug up. Also I do not have to sink the trailer nearly as far before.
Not a brainiac move but hope it helps.


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## Recidivists (May 9, 2011)

Thanks top. Will probably do the same upon delivery.


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

Only two minor things to add Top...

Use only the gold polyurethane rollers (never the cheapo black rubber ones)
and well greased stainless roller shafts to avoid rust and binding, especially on a float-on.


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## Guest (Feb 19, 2012)

> I have the float-on trailer for my suv and I found that the setup was just not working for me. The trailer is an excellent rig but the front cross memeber is straight across which makes it necessary to completely sink the trailer to get the boat on. And, then you can not winch it tight w/o pulling forward to get the bow high enough to fit/snug in the stand.
> 
> The simple solution was to install a 12" roller on the cross member which allows the bow to roll across the cross member  and the bow is then high enough to snug up. Also I do not have to sink the trailer nearly as far before.
> Not a brainiac move but hope it helps.





Can you post a pic of how you mounted it? I have the same issue with my Float-on.


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## topnative2 (Feb 22, 2009)

got the poly-- sw trained
did not grease : shoulda but I am in fw ---that be my alibi


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## topnative2 (Feb 22, 2009)

I took off the poly skid strip that it came w/ and mounted the roller assembly on the back side of the cross member w. the top of the bracket even w/ the top of the cross member--works for me 
I will post when I can.


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## makin moves (Mar 20, 2010)

sweet I need to do the same. Post pic when you can thanks


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## topnative2 (Feb 22, 2009)

Photo bucket and I are not getting along rt. now 
send me a pm w/ email address and i will send pics.


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## Guest (Feb 20, 2012)

Here are the pics you emailed to me. [smiley=1-beer.gif]


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## Guest (Feb 20, 2012)

Seems like a defect! I guess everyone is having this problem with the SUV's it seems. I'm going to call Float-on and see if they will send me one at no cost.


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

I'm of the opinion that if a hull has a keel or vee bow, every cross frame needs a center roller.
Doesn't matter if it's a float-on, break-frame or cheapo galvanized. Only flat bottom hulls
(ie: flat from stem to stern) can get away with using only bunks and without centerline rollers.
The extra rollers will allow launching and retrieving at even the shallowest/flattest ramps.
Costs a little more to set up, but saves on gel-coat repairs in the long run.


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## topnative2 (Feb 22, 2009)

Great points ref. shallow ramps and rollers [smiley=1-mmm.gif]


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## topnative2 (Feb 22, 2009)

Upon laying on my back in 30d. weather, I do believe that I will be adding another roller on the crossmember behind the axle as B. suggests.> which will certainly do the trick even if I have a Brain f--- one morning!


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## Guest (Feb 25, 2012)

> Upon laying on my back in 30d. weather, I do believe that I will be adding another roller on the crossmember behind the axle as B. suggests.> which will certainly do the trick even if I have a Brain f--- one morning!



Weather sucks! Were having a cold front pass by that took us from the mid 80's - mid 60's. ;D


You have a 14' SUV? I wonder if the 17' would act different on the trailer. I'll add 2 rollers and see how it works.

The best place to mount would be one on each cross beam were the bunks are bolted on?


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## topnative2 (Feb 22, 2009)

I have the 17'. 
Yup! on the crossmembers--- one in front of axle and the one behind.
I do not think there is enough ground clearance on the very back one.
Ck the pics. the mnting height is perfect higher is not better because of the bow configuration.

trailerpartsdepot.com is the cheapest by mail. and it is a kit u will still need to need the nuts and bolts


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

> I do not think there is enough ground clearance on the very back one.


There is a bracket specifically designed for the float-on rear frame.
looks like this...











I believe the bracket is sold by FloatOn trailers

http://www.floaton.com/trailer4.html


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## topnative2 (Feb 22, 2009)

Excellent , phone call is in order--- I like the curved crossmembers?????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????


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## Shadowcast (Feb 26, 2008)

> Seems like a defect! I guess everyone is having this problem with the SUV's it seems. I'm going to call Float-on and see if they will send me one at no cost.


I had no issues like this with my Float On and it had an SUV on it. The Float On's are worth their weight in gold, IMHO. I would call Mel or the guys at Float On and I am sure there is a simple solution to take care of it.


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## Guest (Mar 3, 2012)

I was the one who brought the 1st Float on trailer issue to Mel.

The bunks were not in contact with the hull from front to back. They could not be moved (welded) so they cut the brackets and then it fit great. Float-on had to fix a bunch of new trailers and Mel had to track down customers who already had their skiff and might have a problem. 

The problem that a bunch of us are having has been discussed in this thread.

I have called Float-on about the issue and they are going to figure this problem out and call me back.


And yes for the price the Aluminum Float-on is a very nice trailer and the problems will be solved.


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## copperhead (May 30, 2008)

Hey guys,

Whatever the trailer issues are, I'd like you to contact me first.  BrazilNut's trailer was the first with the welded brackets that were off a bit and I thanked him for his keen observations.  There was his and 4 other trailers (still at our facility) that were fixed before going out to customers (not a bunch and none recalled from the field).  

I myself wouldn't call it a defect,  if the skiff is loaded at the correct angle (meaning submerged trailer depth), it won't even touch the cross member.  But I've had feedback that some ramps,  the angle can't can't be reached and will hit the front cross member's rub strake.  So far we've changed the material on the front cross member for those isolated cases for better protection.  We may need to go to a roller on that front member if necessary on future models.

Regardless,  we strive to make a continuous set of improvements based on our customers' feedback (on everything we represent).    As always, drop me an email, text msg to call you, or a call (but most times you wil get my voice mail and I'll call back) when you see how we can improve.  Yours/ours collective experiences will help us deliver the best skiff products at the best value.

Thanks!

Mel


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## topnative2 (Feb 22, 2009)

The bunks need to be raised for sure. You have to tow w/ the motor tilted up which I do not like and maybe a higher tire. 
no dog in this fight  i am putting on 2 additional rollers as suggested from B. for a total of three and all is well
roll em roll em roll em [smiley=1-beer.gif]


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## topnative2 (Feb 22, 2009)

Just read CH's post .....Did.......... So, when i sunk mine enough "correct depth"and winched  up --I had to get back in the truck and pull forward  to raise the bow up enough so I could finish snugging it up. 
All ramps are not equal but trailers should work at "all" ramps.
The front roller as a fix worked for me but i am going for overkill w/ three. :
Murphy's Law is my shadow.


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## topnative2 (Feb 22, 2009)

O.K. I put on 3 rollers --- u can get by w/ 2.

I suggest keeping the mounting plate even w/ the crossmember top because it puts the roller  at the rt. height.

I would prefit the bracket and get a measurement of the remaining bracket extending below the crosmember and then cut it off---makes for a flush/neat appearance.
I used a metal cutting blade on a skillsaw for the work AND A VICE................

A fun day   any ques. PM


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## Shadowcast (Feb 26, 2008)

I have posted this on other threads regarding this issue...and I am curious why I never had an issue. I had a Float On trailer for my SUV 17 and I never had an issue like what I have been reading about. The Float On, to me was a dream to launch and load every time. I never had any damage to the skiff from the trailer. Florida Goat has my old SUV with the Float On and can attest to it. 

When I would launch the SUV, I would back it down, get the tires probably about halfway wet (depending on the slope of the ramp and the tide) and then push the skiff off of the trailer and tie it to the dock. When loading it on the trailer, I eased up about halfway up the trailer, got out and wenched it the rest of the way up. NEVER had an issue. Pulling the skiff was nothing. Maybe I got lucky, but I am pretty sure I had the same Float On trailer made for the SUV that everyone else had.....and I will have a Float On when it comes to the ShadowCast.


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## Recidivists (May 9, 2011)

Regardless, if the trailer doesn't have a second roller, I will put one on myself. Don't like to think about tying my shoes, I just do it. Like Brett said, "every cross frame needs a center roller."


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## topnative2 (Feb 22, 2009)

O.K.--- It all depends on the amount of slope of the ramp. If the ramp has a significant angle/slope the trailer is not set up to accomodate it. 
This means that the trailer is not tuned in for "all" occasions.
I have had float-on,loadmaster, shorelander confab, etc..........from the Keys to the Lagoon,to pine island to Ga.

The problem all boils down to the supports for the bunks not being high enough----- it is not getting the boat high enough off the trailer to allow for steep ramps.

One should not have to get back in the truck and pull up to snug up the boat---everything should be accomplished at the loading spot---
Drive it on and attach the hook --get off the boat --and snug up attach safety chain and pull up. Period.

The trailer is a great trailer that is not set up rt.

The SUV is excellent and an absolute joy to run and fish out of-------and built strong to last a long time . 
The $30-40,000 rigs can take a hike as fas I am concerned----


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