# Aluminum Boat and/for Saltwater?



## Smackdaddy53

There are a ton of threads on here on the subject, some very recent. Search function will pull them up. 
Yes, aluminum is fine in salt. I’d look at a 40-50 for a 16’ and 50-70 for an 18.


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## Rollbar

Smackdaddy53 said:


> There are a ton of threads on here on the subject, some very recent. Search function will pull them up.
> Yes, aluminum is fine in salt. I’d look at a 40-50 for a 16’ and 50-70 for an 18.


Ok, totally forgot about search.
Sorry.


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## Smackdaddy53

Not a problem just helping you get answers quicker than waiting on new replies.


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## FishWithChris

Xpress or SeaArk will get you in what you're looking for. But you will need to make compromises with that tunnel (no major big water in rough conditions, speed, turning, etc...) 

I'd look at the Xpress XP18CC w/ Tunnel. 86" wide, 60" wide at the bottom. Slap a 70hp on there and have a good time. 

It really depends on if you want a fully fitted boat or a knock-down drag-out smash-and-dash boomstick kinda boat... Fully fitted? Xpress. Just a hardcore tank? SeaArk. 

If you're looking for just a tiller jon boat, I'd go with Sea Ark.


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## Smackdaddy53

Tunnels don’t cause any of those issues, people just read that and regurgitate bad information. In most cases it’s because the outboard is not mounted correctly, they run a tunnel with no jackplate, the prop is wrong and/or the operator doesn’t know how to run one correctly. 
Yes I have owned a tunnel hull aluminum boat and my current boat has a tunnel. Most of the boats I run down here have tunnels.


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## DeepSouthFly

I just bought an Excel stalker 1960 center console. I bought the hull and put my Yamaha F90 SHO on the back of it. It has a kick back plate plus an Atlas micro jacker. I bought it for duck hunting and fishing LA in the winter. Runs WOT 40 to 41 with full tank and me and another dude and runs stupid shallow. Floats shallow too. It's not the best riding boat since it's very flat bottom and it will slide in turns at a higher speed but that's ok for how I'm going to use it in LA. I think it's one of there more entry level priced hulls but I like the simple layout of it. 

I'm running a 24v Xi5 on it since I already had that troller on my mav so I just swap them back and forth but a 12v would tug it around just fine. Most AL boats are fairly light so I wouldn't think you would need a 24v troller.


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## Rollbar

FishWithChris said:


> Xpress or SeaArk will get you in what you're looking for. But you will need to make compromises with that tunnel (no major big water in rough conditions, speed, turning, etc...)
> 
> I'd look at the Xpress XP18CC w/ Tunnel. 86" wide, 60" wide at the bottom. Slap a 70hp on there and have a good time.
> 
> It really depends on if you want a fully fitted boat or a knock-down drag-out smash-and-dash boomstick kinda boat... Fully fitted? Xpress. Just a hardcore tank? SeaArk.
> 
> If you're looking for just a tiller jon boat, I'd go with Sea Ark.


I'm looking for a tank tunnel hull (LOL).
I did see a SeaArk that was pretty sweet 1652 or the 17' (cant remember right now) and it had flotation pods on the back (factory option) which I want add on any boat for future upgrades in the stern.
Thanks for the info.


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## Rollbar

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Tunnels don’t cause any of those issues, people just read that and regurgitate bad information. In most cases it’s because the outboard is not mounted correctly, they run a tunnel with no jackplate, the prop is wrong and/or the operator doesn’t know how to run one correctly.
> Yes I have owned a tunnel hull aluminum boat and my current boat has a tunnel. Most of the boats I run down here have tunnels.


That is what I couldn't figure out/their comments on the T-Hull.
A few were saying they were having a hard time with figuring out the prop pitch and motor set up. Takes a long time to DIAL in they say with T-Hulls.
Thanks, I would really like a T-Hull here on the West Coast/Fl


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## Rollbar

DeepSouthFly said:


> I just bought an Excel stalker 1960 center console. I bought the hull and put my Yamaha F90 SHO on the back of it. It has a kick back plate plus an Atlas micro jacker. I bought it for duck hunting and fishing LA in the winter. Runs WOT 40 to 41 with full tank and me and another dude and runs stupid shallow. Floats shallow too. It's not the best riding boat since it's very flat bottom and it will slide in turns at a higher speed but that's ok for how I'm going to use it in LA. I think it's one of there more entry level priced hulls but I like the simple layout of it.
> 
> I'm running a 24v Xi5 on it since I already had that troller on my mav so I just swap them back and forth but a 12v would tug it around just fine. Most AL boats are fairly light so I wouldn't think you would need a 24v troller.


Ok Thank you, I'll take a look at that MFG of boats.

https://excelboats.com/viperf4.html


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## Smackdaddy53

Rollbar said:


> That is what I couldn't figure out/their comments on the T-Hull.
> A few were saying they were having a hard time with figuring out the prop pitch and motor set up. Takes a long time to DIAL in they say with T-Hulls.
> Thanks, I would really like a T-Hull here on the West Coast/Fl


I recommend a good prop shop, they should be able to prop it correctly in two tries and maybe only a minor tweak. Tunnels are misunderstood.


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## FishWithChris

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Tunnels don’t cause any of those issues, people just read that and regurgitate bad information.


I'm speaking comparatively from real world experience between a 16' SeaArk Tunnel and my Xpress non-tunnel. Not every tunnel hull is the same; always best to wet-test in your environment whenever possible. 

Perfect world? I could James Bond the hell out of my boat and flip a switch and the stern pops up creating a tunnel for me and then I can flip a switch and drop it back down for the full mod-V


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## Smackdaddy53

FishWithChris said:


> I'm speaking comparatively from real world experience between a 16' SeaArk Tunnel and my Xpress non-tunnel. Not every tunnel hull is the same; always best to wet-test in your environment whenever possible.
> 
> Perfect world? I could James Bond the hell out of my boat and flip a switch and the stern pops up creating a tunnel for me and then I can flip a switch and drop it back down for the full mod-V


Understood! There are some crazy tournament guys that fabbed some tunnels that way. The top of the tunnel moves up and down like a trim tab...prettt interesting.


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## Rollbar

FishWithChris said:


> I'm speaking comparatively from real world experience between a 16' SeaArk Tunnel and my Xpress non-tunnel. Not every tunnel hull is the same; always best to wet-test in your environment whenever possible.
> 
> Perfect world? I could James Bond the hell out of my boat and flip a switch and the stern pops up creating a tunnel for me and then I can flip a switch and drop it back down for the full mod-V


More info on the SArk Tunnel. 
Some say I need a lot of HP for the tunnel and my 25 2Stroke mentioned won't work/ not enough HP.
I would be interested in your Pro's/Con's of the SArk Tunnel boat if you have time.
I don't see many with this information.
Thanks,


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## GG34

I've got an alumacraft 1546 tunnel with a 25hp. Runs about 24 mph and very shallow. I added a JP and cav plate. Thanks to at @Smackdaddy53 for advice on setup. Alumacraft is definitely not the same quality as sea ark but is priced accordingly. I am happy with the quality so far.


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## Rollbar

GG34 said:


> I've got an alumacraft 1546 tunnel with a 25hp. Runs about 24 mph and very shallow. I added a JP and cav plate. Thanks to at @Smackdaddy53 for advice on setup. Alumacraft is definitely not the same quality as sea ark but is priced accordingly. I am happy with the quality so far.


Nice. Thanks.


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## Jonathan David

Rollbar said:


> More info on the SArk Tunnel.
> Some say I need a lot of HP for the tunnel and my 25 2Stroke mentioned won't work/ not enough HP.
> I would be interested in your Pro's/Con's of the SArk Tunnel boat if you have time.
> I don't see many with this information.
> Thanks,


I have a SeaArk 1652 Tunnel Hull with a 30 Suzuki, and I haven’t had any issues as far as not having enough power. I don’t have a speedometer, but by my self it gets up and runs pretty quick. Even with another person fishing with me I have no complaints. The boat is rated for a 50 though. As for the pros & cons: you can run pretty skinny and generally don’t have to worry about hitting anything (SeaArk has a lifetime warranty, so there’s some peace of mind). Cons being that any aluminum boat will ride rougher than fiberglass. I’ve had mine for about 3 years now and I love it. Hope this helps!


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## Rollbar

Jonathan David said:


> I have a SeaArk 1652 Tunnel Hull with a 30 Suzuki, and I haven’t had any issues as far as not having enough power. I don’t have a speedometer, but by my self it gets up and runs pretty quick. Even with another person fishing with me I have no complaints. The boat is rated for a 50 though. As for the pros & cons: you can run pretty skinny and generally don’t have to worry about hitting anything (SeaArk has a lifetime warranty, so there’s some peace of mind). Cons being that any aluminum boat will ride rougher than fiberglass. I’ve had mine for about 3 years now and I love it. Hope this helps!


Excellent information!!
Can you post some pics and of the stern?
Looking to see the cab plate to bottom of the boat to get an idea on how far it would need to be raised. 
Thank you again and dispelling rumors, now I feel comfortable in getting T-Hall cause I want to skinny.


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## Jonathan David

Rollbar said:


> Excellent information!!
> Can you post some pics and of the stern?
> Looking to see the cab plate to bottom of the boat to get an idea on how far it would need to be raised.
> Thank you again and dispelling rumors, now I feel comfortable in getting T-Hall cause I want to skinny.


Here are some pics of how the motor sits trimmed all the way down. With a jack plate and the right prop, you can get a lot of performance out of these boats in regard to running in shallow water!


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## GG34

Here's my setup


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## Rollbar

Jonathan David said:


> Here are some pics of how the motor sits trimmed all the way down. With a jack plate and the right prop, you can get a lot of performance out of these boats in regard to running in shallow water!


Wow,Thanks. 
I was wondering on the cavitation plate but looks like the cavitation plate is about even with the top of the tunnel. 
How was you experience with Richey boats?

Thanks again and very nice set up.


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## Rollbar

GG34 said:


> Here's my setup


Very nice!
What hydrofoil is that?
Pics of the boat please. 
Thank you very much.


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## Rollbar

Has anyone installed a low water pickup on a small motor like these (20-30hp). 
Any recommendations on a how to, or ?
Thanks again all!


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## GG34

Rollbar said:


> Very nice!
> What hydrofoil is that?
> Pics of the boat please.
> Thank you very much.


The boat is the alumacraft 1546 MVT. It's a trans sport cav plate out of Texas. I'll add a pic when I can.


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## Jonathan David

Rollbar said:


> Wow,Thanks.
> I was wondering on the cavitation plate but looks like the cavitation plate is about even with the top of the tunnel.
> How was you experience with Richey boats?
> 
> Thanks again and very nice set up.


I have nothing but positive things to say about Richey! Especially their mechanic, John. They’ve always been honest, and have gone the extra mile for me when I bring my boat in for service. They are a dealer for both SeaArk and Suzuki. As for a low water pick up, I don’t have any experience in that realm. However, I don’t see why it’s not possible for a smaller outboard!


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## Rollbar

Jonathan David said:


> I have nothing but positive things to say about Richey! Especially their mechanic, John. They’ve always been honest, and have gone the extra mile for me when I bring my boat in for service. They are a dealer for both SeaArk and Suzuki. As for a low water pick up, I don’t have any experience in that realm. However, I don’t see why it’s not possible for a smaller outboard!


Awesome. Thanks for the info. I wrote to them last week asking a few questions and they never replied etc so I wasn’t sure how they ran their business etc but good to hear. 
Thanks again


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## Rollbar

GG34 said:


> The boat is the alumacraft 1546 MVT. It's a trans sport cav plate out of Texas. I'll add a pic when I can.


Excellent, thanks.


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## GG34




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## Jonathan David

Figured I post a pic of mine for ya for comparison


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## Rollbar

Jonathan David said:


> Figured I post a pic of mine for ya for comparison


Nice thank you.


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## Rollbar

GG34 said:


> View attachment 140900


Thank you.
Can you give me a measurement from the TOP of the transom to the TOP of the tunnel?


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## Rollbar

Jonathan David said:


> Here are some pics of how the motor sits trimmed all the way down. With a jack plate and the right prop, you can get a lot of performance out of these boats in regard to running in shallow water!


Can you give me a measurement from the TOP of the transom to the TOP of the tunnel on the SeaArk?
Thanks again,


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## GG34

Rollbar said:


> Thank you.
> Can you give me a measurement from the TOP of the transom to the TOP of the tunnel?


19.5 inches but this is the long shaft motor transom. They make one for a short shaft as well.


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## GG34

The motor is so far jacked up you could make a short shaft work if you had a jack plate.


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## GG34

Jonathan David said:


> Figured I post a pic of mine for ya for comparison


What is your grab bar setup? I'm trying to figure out how to add one.


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## Rollbar

GG34 said:


> 19.5 inches but this is the long shaft motor transom. They make one for a short shaft as well.


Yes. And thanks for the measurements. 
So 19.5 from top of transom to top of the tunnel. 
Thanks again


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## Rollbar

GG34 said:


> The motor is so far jacked up you could make a short shaft work if you had a jack plate.


Yes I have a SShaft and I was going to get the 20” transom and see if a jack plate would work or build a offset to lower the motor with a jack plate. 
I don’t see why this wouldn’t work since the object is to run skinny. more adding a water pickup to the motor. 
Don’t know, just thinking out of the box and it should work.


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## Seymour fish

GG34 said:


> Here's my setup


That looks “right”


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## GG34

Rollbar said:


> Yes I have a SShaft and I was going to get the 20” transom and see if a jack plate would work or build a offset to lower the motor with a jack plate.
> I don’t see why this wouldn’t work since the object is to run skinny. more adding a water pickup to the motor.
> Don’t know, just thinking out of the box and it should work.


I tried my boat with the original SS motor I had. It didn't work. That was without the JP or cav plate. I think it would work if I mounted the JP lower, but I switched to a long shaft motor and never tried it. The cav plate is key for my setup. Hopefully, I think I could come up a couple more inches but the JP is maxed out.

I did all the rigging myself. It is amazing that none of the GA dealers knew anything about setting a tunnel up. Most of my advice came from smack. He's a tunnel guru. Very happy with it. I run rivers a lot and they can get extremely shallow. On plane it will run in 8 inches. Maybe less. That's the conservative guess.


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## GG34

Forgot to mention I do have SS powertech cupped prop


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## Seymour fish

GG34 said:


> Forgot to mention I do have SS powertech cupped prop


SWW, PFS ?


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## GG34

Seymour fish said:


> SWW, PFS ?


SRA


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## Rollbar

GG34 said:


> I tried my boat with the original SS motor I had. It didn't work. That was without the JP or cav plate. I think it would work if I mounted the JP lower, but I switched to a long shaft motor and never tried it. The cav plate is key for my setup. Hopefully, I think I could come up a couple more inches but the JP is maxed out.
> 
> I did all the rigging myself. It is amazing that none of the GA dealers knew anything about setting a tunnel up. Most of my advice came from smack. He's a tunnel guru. Very happy with it. I run rivers a lot and they can get extremely shallow. On plane it will run in 8 inches. Maybe less. That's the conservative guess.


Thank you very much.
Seems like the JPlate mounted a little lower would work, but then again, I don't know from experience until I get a tunnel.


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## GG34

Definitely with a cav plate


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## Rollbar

Just parking this here for future if someone needs it.
https://aeromarineresearch.com


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## Jonathan David

Rollbar said:


> Can you give me a measurement from the TOP of the transom to the TOP of the tunnel on the SeaArk?
> Thanks again,


It measures about 20.5 inches


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## Jonathan David

GG34 said:


> What is your grab bar setup? I'm trying to figure out how to add one.


I found a stainless rod holder and made that grab bar from pvc pipe. It just slides in. Not the fanciest, but it works great and was very cost effective! I’ll post some pictures for you tomorrow so you can get a better look!


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## Jonathan David

GG34 said:


> What is your grab bar setup? I'm trying to figure out how to add one.


Here’s how the setup looks up close. I usually stand on the back deck when I’m driving, so this was the most ideal place to put it.


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## GG34

Awesome. Thanks. I like that.


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## Rollbar

Contacted SeaArk:
Had some time today, so I'm starting at the top and working my way down the list (waiting on a prodigy call back/20K range they said from my on-line build).

-SeaArk local Florida dealer quotes (not in stock. -Retail cost + shipping/special order).
Hull Only:
1652 SLD $6,442.50
1860 SLD $7,611.00
1652 MVT $4,901.25
1860 MVT $5,983.75
1872 MVT $7632.00
2072 MVT $7915.00
Flotation pods: $480.00
P.S. Dealer said what ever motor I wanted (transom rated), would have to be ordered as well.

Caught this Red Saturday morning.


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## Boneheaded

So i am in a similar place as the author of the thread, have a 25hp looking for a tunnel jon...I found that Alumacraft no longer makes the 15 or 16 MVT as of 2019. There are a few to be found in the used market but they seem to go quick. Found a 15x44 tunnel hull with a similar weight online from Boats Direct(3,200 + 525$ for tunnel no tax), cant vouch for them but they are made by Weld-Craft out of Arkansas. 8 week build time and you pick it up in Georgia. Been floating the idea of pulling the trigger on one of these.


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## GG34

Boneheaded said:


> So i am in a similar place as the author of the thread, have a 25hp looking for a tunnel jon...I found that Alumacraft no longer makes the 15 or 16 MVT as of 2019. There are a few to be found in the used market but they seem to go quick. Found a 15x44 tunnel hull with a similar weight online from Boats Direct(3,200 + 525$ for tunnel no tax), cant vouch for them but they are made by Weld-Craft out of Arkansas. 8 week build time and you pick it up in Georgia. Been floating the idea of pulling the trigger on one of these.


Call Mitchell marine in Lagrange. I bought my AC 1546 tunnel from there late June. They had a bunch.


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## Rollbar

https://weld-craft.com/JonBoats.htm


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## Rollbar

Jonathan David said:


> I have a SeaArk 1652 Tunnel Hull with a 30 Suzuki, and I haven’t had any issues as far as not having enough power. I don’t have a speedometer, but by my self it gets up and runs pretty quick. Even with another person fishing with me I have no complaints. The boat is rated for a 50 though. As for the pros & cons: you can run pretty skinny and generally don’t have to worry about hitting anything (SeaArk has a lifetime warranty, so there’s some peace of mind). Cons being that any aluminum boat will ride rougher than fiberglass. I’ve had mine for about 3 years now and I love it. Hope this helps!


Jonathan, how long is your tunnel on the SeaArk from stern to the start of the tunnel and is it 4" tall or 6" tall at the stern.
Thanks again,
JB


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## NealXB2003

Another excel . 1860 w/f70.


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## Jonathan David

Rollbar said:


> Jonathan, how long is your tunnel on the SeaArk from stern to the start of the tunnel and is it 4" tall or 6" tall at the stern.
> Thanks again,
> JB


It’s just shy of 5ft long from beginning to stern, and it is 6” tall.


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## Jonathan David

Rollbar said:


> Jonathan, how long is your tunnel on the SeaArk from stern to the start of the tunnel and is it 4" tall or 6" tall at the stern.
> Thanks again,
> JB


Hope this helps.


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## Rollbar

Jonathan David said:


> Hope this helps.


Awesome! Thank you very much for taking the time etc.
Been reading up on tunnel lengths and wanted to make sure it was adequate from what I was reading.


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## FLAggie

Just started reading this thread, in the market for a new skiff, been considering BT mosquito and Cayo 173 glass hulls. After more research, considering aluminum hull , areas i fish are shallow and full of oyster. Going to check out Sabine Skiffs during a trip to Texas next week, but also considering SeaArk 1652 and 1860. Need to find a dealer here near Gainesville. Any idea what a basic setup with a tiller would cost on the Seaark 1652 or 1860?


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## Jonathan David

FLAggie said:


> Just started reading this thread, in the market for a new skiff, been considering BT mosquito and Cayo 173 glass hulls. After more research, considering aluminum hull , areas i fish are shallow and full of oyster. Going to check out Sabine Skiffs during a trip to Texas next week, but also considering SeaArk 1652 and 1860. Need to find a dealer here near Gainesville. Any idea what a basic setup with a tiller would cost on the Seaark 1652 or 1860?


I would say a brand new 1652 mvt with a 40 hp tiller would be in the $10k to $12k range if you got everything new from a dealer. I figure around $5000 for the boat, $4500 for the motor, and $1500 for a trailer. 
That’s just off the top of my head using round numbers that were either given to me on quotes, or what I’ve seen on price tags at dealers.


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## Rollbar

Contacted SeaArk:
Had some time today, so I'm starting at the top and working my way down the list (waiting on a prodigy call back/20K range they said from my on-line build).

-SeaArk local Florida dealer quotes (not in stock. -Retail cost + shipping/special order).
Hull Only:
1652 SLD $6,442.50
1860 SLD $7,611.00
1652 MVT $4,901.25
1860 MVT $5,983.75
1872 MVT $7632.00
2072 MVT $7915.00
Flotation pods: $480.00
P.S. Dealer said what ever motor I wanted (transom rated), would have to be ordered as well.


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## Rollbar

FLAggie said:


> Just started reading this thread, in the market for a new skiff, been considering BT mosquito and Cayo 173 glass hulls. After more research, considering aluminum hull , areas i fish are shallow and full of oyster. Going to check out Sabine Skiffs during a trip to Texas next week, but also considering SeaArk 1652 and 1860. Need to find a dealer here near Gainesville. Any idea what a basic setup with a tiller would cost on the Seaark 1652 or 1860?


I like the 1860/1872 MVT for the width.
Note: I like the ice runner option for the SeaArk boats.
I just wonder if sand will collect (with the saltwater/rust) in the runner since it doesn't look like it is factory welded the length of the runner, but only in certain spots.

https://www.seaarkboats.com/accessory/183/ice-runners


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## Rollbar

FLAggie:
Just some companies I am researching (no particular order): Really liking the aluminum boat for ease of fixing if needed, cost and durability.

Aluminum:
https://www.seaarkboats.com/life-categories
Backwoods Landing Boats by Weldbilt
www.edgeduckboats.com
Blazer Boat Manufacturing
Home - Prodigy Boats
Excel Boats
https://www.duracraftboats.com/pages.aspx?s=1658
| HAVOC BOATS | Home
Weld-Craft Aluminum Jon Boats
Xpress Boats | The Original All-Welded Aluminum Boat
Alumacraft Boats: Aluminum fishing boats, Jon Boats and Bass Boats for sale
Alweld Boats/Lonsdale AR/Aluminum Boats
War Eagle Boats - Team Ward Aluminum Duck Boats and Fishing Boats
www.southforkcustomboats.com
www.timbercreekboats.com
www.gatortraxboats.com
www.unclejcustomboats.com
www.relentlessboatsla.com
www.castandblastboats.com/cast-and-blast-17
www.g3boats.com
www.lowcountryboats.com

Glass:
http://www.saltmarshskiffs.com/heron16
http://www.ankonaboats.com/native
Flats Boat Florida: Custom Flats Cat Boat
HOME - Skimmer Skiff Boats
Boats - Piranha Boatworks
Boat Manufacturers and Brands
www.freedomboatsusa.com/chiquita
www.tavernierskiffcompany.com
www.helmsboats.com


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## Rollbar

-Probably a stupid question and I'm not sure about my own answer seeing I'm a traditional transom kind of guy, and these new ones are very different.
-Picture for reference and not the company (random pic choice etc).
-So in regards to this new type of motor mount/transom, if I was to order a boat with this type of transom to fit my short shaft motor, then the back of the boat just behind the driver would still be the 20" correct and the motor mount/transom (if you will where the motor is actually attached in the pic) would be either the 15" or 20" choice.
-Am I understanding this correctly?
Thanks again,
JB


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## Jonathan David

Rollbar said:


> -Probably a stupid question and I'm not sure about my own answer seeing I'm a traditional transom kind of guy, and these new ones are very different.
> -Picture for reference and not the company (random pic choice etc).
> -So in regards to this new type of motor mount/transom, if I was to order a boat with this type of transom to fit my short shaft motor, then the back of the boat just behind the driver would still be the 20" correct and the motor mount/transom (if you will where the motor is actually attached in the pic) would be either the 15" or 20" choice.
> -Am I understanding this correctly?
> Thanks again,
> JB
> 
> View attachment 144092
> View attachment 144094


I’m not familiar with this style of transom (or transom mount?). However, I have to believe that the transom in the picture would still have to accommodate a specific shaft length like a traditional setup.
Do you think this would be compatible with a jack plate at all?
Like I said, I have no knowledge on this.


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## Rollbar

I figured it out.
Thanks,


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## Rollbar

Jonathan David said:


> I’m not familiar with this style of transom (or transom mount?). However, I have to believe that the transom in the picture would still have to accommodate a specific shaft length like a traditional setup.
> Do you think this would be compatible with a jack plate at all?
> Like I said, I have no knowledge on this.


Yes from what I gather, the MOTOR MOUNT where the motor is now (in the picture) can be ordered in 15" or 20".
So my SShaft would work.
The place behind the driver is still 20" height or side height to keep water out.
This is called a Hunt Deck to get in/out of the boat easily.
I'm still researching, just found another aluminum boat company and added it to the list above.


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## NealXB2003

Jonathan David said:


> I’m not familiar with this style of transom (or transom mount?). However, I have to believe that the transom in the picture would still have to accommodate a specific shaft length like a traditional setup.
> Do you think this would be compatible with a jack plate at all?
> Like I said, I have no knowledge on this.


Yes, it will accommodate a jackplate. My excel has a hunt deck (and kik up transom) and a 4"jackplate. I can get a pic tomorrow if you want to set how it all adds up.


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## Rollbar

NealXB2003 said:


> Yes, it will accommodate a jackplate. My excel has a hunt deck (and kik up transom) and a 4"jackplate. I can get a pic tomorrow if you want to set how it all adds up.


That would be great!
For now I'm working w/a 15" SShaft outboard until I get a newer motor.
I also like the MudBuddy motors but not for every day Gulf fishing, but they did say it's ok to run their MBuddy motors in the saltwater.
I have asked a dealer to give me some info on the Excel hunt deck and Kik up transom but they haven't responded yet.
*Viper F4* and *F4 Pro Shallow Water*
P.S. How do you like the Kik Up transom?
Thank you,


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## NealXB2003

The kik up transom was the #1 selling point for me. Running in timber, we're always hitting logs. Every other boat has an aftermarket kick up plate that is basically a hinged jackplate. No shock absorption and nothing to limit the travel. But the excel kik up addresses both of those. Monroe shocks dampen the blow, and limit how far up it can kick. 

A lot of folks with the add- on kick up plates fashion limit straps or chains. That keeps it from kicking up too far and breaking the tiller, but does nothing for softening the impact. Had an xpress with one of those before and it would be hard to go back. 

Only downside to the excel is it is heavy, but all of the add-ons like live well and built in gas tank add weight. The gas tank under the front deck helps with a quick holeshot but counters bow lift on the top end. They run real flat.


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## Rollbar

NealXB2003 said:


> The kik up transom was the #1 selling point for me. Running in timber, we're always hitting logs. Every other boat has an aftermarket kick up plate that is basically a hinged jackplate. No shock absorption and nothing to limit the travel. But the excel kik up addresses both of those. Monroe shocks dampen the blow, and limit how far up it can kick.
> 
> A lot of folks with the add- on kick up plates fashion limit straps or chains. That keeps it from kicking up too far and breaking the tiller, but does nothing for softening the impact. Had an xpress with one of those before and it would be hard to go back.
> 
> Only downside to the excel is it is heavy, but all of the add-ons like live well and built in gas tank add weight. The gas tank under the front deck helps with a quick holeshot but counters bow lift on the top end. They run real flat.


Excellent info especially about the ride at top-end.
Didn't know they were heavy. I asked the dealer to provide all that info.
Glad to hear the shock works, but if not stainless , might rust out w/the saltwater but maybe not.
Yes the Kik Up did catch my eye and I keep going back to look at it/feature as well as the hunt deck.
Thanks again,


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## NealXB2003

My 1860 hull weight is about 600 lbs.


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## Rollbar

NealXB2003 said:


> My 1860 hull weight is about 600 lbs.


That is the model I was looking at. 
Want a 17/18' long boat.
I''l have to wait from the dealer to see how much they are.
Thanks again, and for the pics of the boat.


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## NealXB2003

Rollbar said:


> That is the model I was looking at.
> Want a 17/18' wide boat.
> I''l have to wait from the dealer to see how much they are.
> Thanks again, and for the pics of the boat.


Excel includes the step on the back in the overall length measurement. The 1860 is really a 17' boat with a 1' step on the back. 

My buddy has the 1751. It goes through the timber better during hunting season, but the narrower width is noticeable in terms of fishing space.


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## Rollbar

NealXB2003 said:


> Excel includes the step on the back in the overall length measurement. The 1860 is really a 17' boat with a 1' step on the back.
> 
> My buddy has the 1751. It goes through the timber better during hunting season, but the narrower width is noticeable in terms of fishing space.


Thank you very much., and thanks for the picture.
I didn't know the 1860 was a 17' w/ the extra step.
I thought the internal/boat only was 18' then the step.
That is good to know.
So the 16' is a 15' and 1751 is a 16'.
Kind of confusing but not.
Thanks,


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## Rollbar

Need some input:
In regards to the SeaArk 1860/1872 MVTunnel with Floatation Pods.

1. Do you think my 25 2Stoke would push the 60" or 72" until I can get a bigger motor (can't remember if I asked that)?

2. My 2Stroke doesn't have PTT, would it be better to just buy a JPalate then the new motor w/the PTT?

3. I'm thinking I can run the 2Stroke w/out PTT and just a JPLate (w/Cavplate), and since it is a ShortShaft (can lower the JP to compensate for the 20"), I can get away with raising it up vertically for now (but what do I know).

Thanks again,
JB


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## Jonathan David

Rollbar said:


> Need some input:
> In regards to the SeaArk 1860/1872 MVTunnel with Floatation Pods.
> 
> 1. Do you think my 25 2Stoke would push the 60" or 72" until I can get a bigger motor (can't remember if I asked that)?
> 
> 2. My 2Stroke doesn't have PTT, would it be better to just buy a JPalate then the new motor w/the PTT?
> 
> 3. I'm thinking I can run the 2Stroke w/out PTT and just a JPLate (w/Cavplate), and since it is a ShortShaft (can lower the JP to compensate for the 20"), I can get away with raising it up vertically for now (but what do I know).
> 
> Thanks again,
> JB


That 1872 is a pretty large boat, last one I was on had a 90 on it. I know a 25 would work on a 1660, but with an 1860/ 1872 you might be too underpowered. However, if it’s just a temporary thing until you can put a larger motor on, I don’t see too much harm in doing so. 
As for PTT, I know plenty of people who run their boats without it. It’s mostly a preference thing. I do think that if you’re going to get the larger 1860 or 1872 you should start looking for another motor, regardless of PTT. As for your 3rd question, I don’t know enough about jack plates to give any educated input on that, but these other guys seem like they know what they’re doing. I’m sure they’ll have an answer!


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## NealXB2003

We tried a 25 on a 1650 xpress one duck season (to comply with refuge rules). It was an absolute pig with a load. With a full load, it just plowed water and never planed.


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## Rollbar

Ya especially a T-hull I would imagine.
Might give it a go an when the wife goes w/me, then she will probably drive me to the dealer and have one put on.
Plus I can remind her before I purchase, that she said might as well go all NEW!
We will see, just trying to figure out exactly what I want and the Excel is still on my mind as well as the Uncle J, which is 18weeks out in MFGing.


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## Rollbar

OK so since we are on tunnel hulls, lets talk Jets for a minute.
Example: SeaArk 1860 MVTJ; 65HP.
-So with a Jet, then I suppose the 90*HP is what Jet is needed on the label of the motor to get your maximum HP of the prop rating output of 65HP.
-Is that correct?
Thanks,

https://www.seaarkboats.com/boat/25/1860-mvjt


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## Jonathan David

That sounds about correct. If you take the lower unit off of a 90hp outboard and put on a jet, you’ll get about 65hp~ from the pump. 
https://www.collinsboating.com/manu...boards/2019-yamaha-outboards-f90-jet-6932025/
Jets are great for shallow water, but they’re just not as efficient as props. I’ve seen a few people that will buy the jet drive separately and change their lower unit depending on location or time of year.


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## Rollbar

Jonathan David said:


> That sounds about correct. If you take the lower unit off of a 90hp outboard and put on a jet, you’ll get about 65hp~ from the pump.
> https://www.collinsboating.com/manu...boards/2019-yamaha-outboards-f90-jet-6932025/
> Jets are great for shallow water, but they’re just not as efficient as props. I’ve seen a few people that will buy the jet drive separately and change their lower unit depending on location or time of year.


Ok, thanks. I'll look at the link.
I'll have to look into it more.
Jet sounds great for this area.
Just have to weigh the Pro's/Con's.


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## Rollbar

FYI: Here is some added information from a guy running a ALWELD Tunnel hull and 3blade prop.



> I have a jack plate and the short shaft and sometimes i actually run my motor about 1-1/2” above my transom. It will run but slips some depending on how worn my prop is and how choppy the water is.  Normally i run my motor at the top of the transom as if it were just hung on there. ie: normal riding height.





> I don’t use a cavitation plate or “whale fin” or whatever they’re called but i have a couple buddies who swear by them. My boat is a little unique in that i have my console towards the front which puts my body weight up front which counters the weight of the motor and fuel and battery. I’m not that fat but i have a passenger too so... if your seat is in the rear the whale fin will lift the stern and lower the bow getting you on plane faster.
> Having a short shaft motor on a tall transom is risky but it keeps my motor lower and out of the way of limbs and brush while running lines and stuff.


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## Rollbar

Went to look at a few boats today and stopped by the SeaArk dealer.
Wow! Very hot to the touch even w/the spray liner on the deck.
Metal will just be to hot unless some knows how to correct that.
P.S. Anakona said they were 9months out on builds but realistically 12months.


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## GitchaPull

Here’s my setup I’ve been putting together. Havoc 1756DB. She’s a little underpowered tho


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## GitchaPull




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## Rollbar

Very nice.
WOT w/a 90?
Thanks,


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## GitchaPull

55


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## GitchaPull

That’s with a 20 raker. Could probably swing a 22


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## Rollbar

-I was asking about the Excel boats and some were saying their foam sucks up water.
-This came from a few people who owned them.
-Not sure if it's their older year models or not.
-I do have a SeaArk dealer looking into a 1860/1872 MVT w/a 60hp Suzuki and Yamaha since the builders I want are 18+months out.
-Lot's of room on these boats, just would like to see a 1860 to see if it is wide enough.


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## JeffZ

I have a Lowe Pathfinder 1760 with a tunnel and 90/65 jet. I used it nearshore around Matlacha March 2020. It has pods and gets very shallow. With the jet I had to be very careful of surface weeds and had to pull myself off a flat once when the weed clog brought me off plane. I thought the salt water rather rough on the aluminum and hear that glass boats are much quieter. The jet does consume a lot of gas. I have been thinking that I would buy a used glass boat down there this winter but this thread has me thinking that my current boat as is, or with the jet swapped out for a prop, might be a real option. Your comments appreciated.


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## Rollbar

JeffZ said:


> I have a Lowe Pathfinder 1760 with a tunnel and 90/65 jet. I used it nearshore around Matlacha March 2020. It has pods and gets very shallow. With the jet I had to be very careful of surface weeds and had to pull myself off a flat once when the weed clog brought me off plane. I thought the salt water rather rough on the aluminum and hear that glass boats are much quieter. The jet does consume a lot of gas. I have been thinking that I would buy a used glass boat down there this winter but this thread has me thinking that my current boat as is, or with the jet swapped out for a prop, might be a real option. Your comments appreciated.
> View attachment 155347


Yes I heard the same exact thing as far as the Jet and aluminum stalking fish.
Nice boat!


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## No Bait / Lures Only

Smackdaddy53 said:


> There are a ton of threads on here on the subject, some very recent. Search function will pull them up.
> Yes, aluminum is fine in salt. I’d look at a 40-50 for a 16’ and 50-70 for an 18.


Uncle j's will build whatever u design!


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## No Bait / Lures Only

Rollbar said:


> Ya especially a T-hull I would imagine.
> Might give it a go an when the wife goes w/me, then she will probably drive me to the dealer and have one put on.
> Plus I can remind her before I purchase, that she said might as well go all NEW!
> We will see, just trying to figure out exactly what I want and the Excel is still on my mind as well as the Uncle J, which is 18weeks out in MFGing.


I have uncle j 18x60 with f70 yamaha n now 115 2 stroke. It'll get d job done. 1/8" all except transom n bottom.


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## Rollbar

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> I have uncle j 18x60 with f70 yamaha n now 115 2 stroke. It'll get d job done. 1/8" all except transom n bottom.


I have never seen a T-Hull from UncleJ who is 30 weeks out on builds.
How did your 18x60 run w/a 70hp? Some say the 60" needs at least a 115hp?
Does your have a tunnel?
Thanks,


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## No Bait / Lures Only

Rollbar said:


> I have never seen a T-Hull from UncleJ who is 30 weeks out on builds.
> How did your 18x60 run w/a 70hp? Some say the 60" needs at least a 115hp?
> Does your have a tunnel?
> Thanks,


F70la yamaha 4 stroke ran ok, 35/40 depending loads n propellers. No tunnel, but he will build exactly what u spec out. I currently have an 18" pad centered on bottom. His prices were less expensive than ones you had listed on factory hulls. I had $2000.00 options added n still $7500.00


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## No Bait / Lures Only

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> F70la yamaha 4 stroke ran ok, 35/40 depending loads n propellers. No tunnel, but he will build exactly what u spec out. I currently have an 18" pad centered on bottom. His prices were less expensive than ones you had listed on factory hulls. I had $2000.00 options added n still $7500.00
> Send me a cell n I'll send photos.


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## Rollbar

I wonder if a 90 Yamaha would work well, I don't need a speed boat.
It should by the numbers of you 70.
Ok or you can post them here if you want but I send the number anyway.
Thanks,


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## Musky Nuts

GitchaPull said:


> Here’s my setup I’ve been putting together. Havoc 1756DB. She’s a little underpowered tho
> 
> View attachment 150895


Looks fun! What does the coast guard tag say on that one?


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## GitchaPull

Musky Nuts said:


> Looks fun! What does the coast guard tag say on that one?


what tag??👀


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## Musky Nuts

Yikes!! Still looks fun


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## GitchaPull

Musky Nuts said:


> Yikes!! Still looks fun
> 
> View attachment 160238


 These are like traffic signs. They are merely suggestions.


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