# Pouring Transom



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

Has anyone poured a transom or know anywhere that does it in the Orlando area? I have a 14' Johnsen/Mitchell and was thinking about redoing the transom before installing a poling platform. I know I can buy the materials for about $2-300 but I don't know the process. I do know how it works but I don't know how thick or if it needs to be epoxied or glassed over after.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Yes and this is the only way to go in my opinion.

You need to build a template out of cardboard and then transfer it and make the piece out of fiberglass. Tab that piece in about 1.25-1.5" away from the outer skin. You will need to support the two skins so they don't bow from the weight - keep them as straight as possible.

After you pour you will need to put a cap of fiberglass over the top and then make sure it is all tabbed to the gunnels.


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## predacious (Sep 1, 2016)

using cardboard ? 
that may not be the ideal method


sounds like you're replacing a transom,yes ?


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## RunningOnEmpty (Jun 20, 2015)

I'm not impressed with that method unless you have no choice. How does that stuff properly bond to the transom skins down at the bottom without really getting in there with a grinder?


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## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

predacious said:


> using cardboard ?
> that may not be the ideal method
> 
> 
> sounds like you're replacing a transom,yes ?


Yeah. It is an older boat and I want to put a platform on. I would feel a lot better with a new transom.


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## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

RunningOnEmpty said:


> I'm not impressed with that method unless you have no choice. How does that stuff properly bond to the transom skins down at the bottom without really getting in there with a grinder?


I was wondering the same thing. I figured I would need to get down to resin. Will the pour adhere to the resin like PB epoxy? Not sure. These are the things I was wondering. I would rather have someone else do it since I have no experience with it.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

The stuff is way better than wood.

You have to either dig out all of the old transom material or cut the inner skin off. Clean up the inside of the outer hull. Make a pattern out of cardboard. Then take that pattern and transfer it to fiberglass. Wet it out and then install it about 1.5" away from the existing outer skin. You will need to tab it in all the way around except for the top. Then build whatever you can to support the two skins so they won't bow out from the weight of the compound. Pour the stuff in the middle until full. Let it cure and then cap it off with glass.


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## RunningOnEmpty (Jun 20, 2015)

Kevin Booker said:


> I was wondering the same thing. I figured I would need to get down to resin. Will the pour adhere to the resin like PB epoxy? Not sure. These are the things I was wondering. I would rather have someone else do it since I have no experience with it.


Fiberglass needs a really good mechanical AKA secondary bond that requires roughing up the surface with nothing finer than 80 grit. That transom in the video lacked any of that. I use 36 grit by hand after using the high speed tools. I was reading that the high speed grinder causes the old resin to heat up and it reduces the mechanical bond. It's a pretty simple job if you don't mind itching LOL. Protect yourself because glass in the lungs is really bad!


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## predacious (Sep 1, 2016)

poured transoms:

the above is correct,concerning surface prep - the surfaces need to be clean and ground.

cardboard will prove difficult to remove,and it will not hold a shape well.

another option is using a piece of core material - 1/2" coosa board,tabbed to the hull's bottom and sides - this will create a "dam".use starboard strips,cut to fit the spacing between the transom skin and the coosa board - put them in,leaving enough for you to remove them as you pour.mix the product,and begin pouring,as the level comes up,remove the the strips and the product will conform to fit the area - after it's poured and kicked,glass everything over - overlapping the hull sides and hull's bottom - glass over the top,after you "level" off the product.let it all kick again,and fair/refinish as you wish

pour method isn't bad.the ceramic is tough to drill - be aware of that

replacing a transom core using a lamination mix of thickened epoxy and coosa board,along with a clamping method,is the approach I like to take,but that's me

some mfgs use a ceraminc poured transom in their lay up,when the boat's being built and still in the mold - nothing wrong with that !


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## fjmaverick (Sep 18, 2015)

Only thing I have noticed with the poured transom is the straighter the transom the easier the install. Ive seen sea cast bow out slightly on transoms that were contoured.


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