# Am I on the right track?



## gunner284 (Aug 25, 2012)

I have a Gamefisher (Force) 9.9hp 2 stroke, '94 model, which is not running. It's in very good condition but doesn't start or run properly. I can get it to start if I add some Seafoam or carb cleaner in the carb air intake but it will only run for a few seconds and then stop. I have two gas tanks and it doesn't seem to make a difference which I use. The gas is less than 2 months old and has Stabil added (in addition to the proper oil mix). I've been expecting the next step is to disassemble the carb and clean it but seeing that it runs, albeit briefly, when "fuel" is added to the carb I'm wondering if it might be something other than the carb. The various tubing appears to be in good condition, I don't see any indications of fuel or air leaks. Any suggestions?


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## anytide (Jul 30, 2009)

carb. -idle jets clogged ?
will it run when choked -rough but still run?


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## gunner284 (Aug 25, 2012)

Idle jet clogged was my initial thought. Today I couldn't get it to start at all unless Seafoam or carb cleaner was introduced into the carb directly. If that was done it would start and run for maybe 5 seconds and then die. I'm just hesitant to pull the carb apart (since I've never done one before) if that's not the problem.


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## anytide (Jul 30, 2009)

will it try run when full choked -rough but still run? :-?


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## gunner284 (Aug 25, 2012)

Not without something added to the carb. With Seafoam added to the carb - yes.


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## anytide (Jul 30, 2009)

new problem ? -has been sitting for long time ?


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Clean the carb, install a filter and go fish.


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## gunner284 (Aug 25, 2012)

Yes, it sat for about 15 years. I guess a carb cleaning is in order and we'll see what happens.


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## anytide (Jul 30, 2009)

yes clean everything , carb , lines , tanks . good filter...watch out for water too..
-run the gas out while flushing everytime...
thank me later....


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## Swamp (Jul 12, 2010)

Probably the carb or filter.  Check the filter first and then pull the line feeding the carb.  Use the main fuel line primer bulb to make sure there is no line blockage.  Chase down blockage if that is what it is (I always suspect a bad primer bulb if the filter checks out).  If not buy an OEM service manual, yes I know they cost more but you get what you pay for here.  Marineengine.com has many reprints of out of print manuals at a reasonable price (YMMV).  Clean carb.  The vast majority of the time you won't need to replace anything in the carb.  These carbs are simple, usually a fixed main jet and only an adjustable low speed needle valve and/or idle.  Just pay real close attention to how it comes apart and before you pull any needle valves count how many turns (by 1/4 or 18th of a turn) it takes till the needle gently bumps the seat.  Don't crank it shut, you can cause damage if you do.  You will reverse that to get the same adjustment when you reassemble the carb.  Clean every hole, nook, and cranny with carb cleaner (watch your eyes for spray).  I really prefer the flammable, bad for you, environmentally unfriendly stuff.  I hate the new "safer" versions.  Reassemble and reinstall.  If you still have the same issue then you probably need to rebuild the fuel pump (but you will have a nice clean carb!).  When you dismantle it check the diaphragms for flexibility.  Stiff or "crinkly" diaphragms are a give away.  Be careful if you dismantle the fuel pump, some of them have spring assemblies in them and not only can they go flying, but they need to be reassembled exactly the same way (there may be more than one way if you shift diaphragm orientation).  They can be tricky if you don't pay attention.  Take notes or better yet pictures. FYI OEM fuel pumps are sometimes replacement items, after market rebuild kits may exist at a considerable cost savings.  Example, I just bought a rebuild kit (Sierra?) for a '70 6hp at $12-$13.  Evinrude wanted $60 for an assembly.  That was a no brainer.

Oh another word of advice, use the proper size screw drivers that are in proper shape (not undersized, dull or broken) when working on the carb.  Especially when pulling valve seats or jets.  Tools in good repair can save you some serious headaches here.  A stripped or broken main jet sucks.

I'm not sure how safe Seafoam is to use uncut with fuel(no idea).  I use an old pump oilier filled with fuel/oil mix when I test engines.

YMMV.  Don't stress, enjoy doing it yourself.

Swamp

ETA: If you do get a manual and/or get a carb rebuild kit, they may talk about or include plugs and or lead shot.  Unless the carb is so bad that it needs a COMPLETE rebuild there is no need to pry lead shot or any semi permanent plugs.  Usually when things get that bad it's time for a new carb anyway.  On the other hand you have nothing to loose at that time either strip it down and soak it in carb cleaner for a few days.  Over the years I've only come across a very few carbs that where that far gone and even fewer that could still be salvaged.  IMO


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