# Abel Deep Clean



## brokeoff (Sep 2, 2016)

I’m looking to do a deep clean on a Super 9/10N. Opened it last night and found salt, dirt, grass, and sand.

Looking for something for the cork and something for everything else. Where do I find that blue stuff?

I am going on a trip in two weeks so I’d like to do this all myself.


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## ifsteve (Jul 1, 2010)

Cork - 100% neats foot oil

Lube - PENN Precision Reel Grease

Been using this combo for years.


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## brokeoff (Sep 2, 2016)

Awesome. Is there anything that you use to break down the old grease and dirt? I'm reluctant to get any harsh chemicals near the cork.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Maybe use Simple Green? That should break down the grease but not damage the cork. Especially if you are careful and don't over do it. The Neet foot oil is some great stuff!


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## brokeoff (Sep 2, 2016)

Simple green was the answer I got from google. I'll take most of the grease off with brushes/q-tips then finish with simple green.


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## texasag07 (Nov 11, 2014)

I would think dish soap and a tooth brush would work for cleaning everything up.


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## TheAdamsProject (Oct 29, 2007)

Agree with all the above. You will be good to go and good luck on the trip.


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## Finn Maccumhail (Apr 9, 2010)

I don’t know about an Abel but I’m pretty sure Tibor specifically says to not use neats foot oil on the cork. Might want to check that on the Abel too.


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## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

bel


Finn Maccumhail said:


> I don’t know about an Abel but I’m pretty sure Tibor specifically says to not use neats foot oil on the cork. Might want to check that on the Abel too.


Abel specifically says neatsfoot oil.


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## TheAdamsProject (Oct 29, 2007)

Tibor has their own lube and Abel says to specifically use Neat Foot.


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## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

I've done a ton of clean/repair on every kind of reel from big FinNors on down to small fly reels over the years...

Here's my routine... Disassemble carefully if you choose -but many times on fly reels -- not necessary except for removing the spool to access the interior (and never disassemble any reel without a clear schematic from the maker...). I use plain old mineral spirits for cleaning out old grease/lubes - usually with a toothbrush using a minimum of spirits (if you go to any hardware store these days you'll find quality mineral spirits listed as paint thinner..). Work on a given area with a wet toothbrush and constantly dunk the dirty brush back into the small tub of spirits to clean the dirt and old lube/grease off off you toothbrush... When done use a clean paper towel to blot up and remaining wet areas then allow the reel to dry before re-lubing... If possible avoid any solvent on the cork drag, period (if the drag is on a plate simply remove the plate before cleaning with toothbrush..).

When your reel is clean and dry re-lube - for oil use a high quality gun oil (Gunslik, Break Free, etc.). Avoid "three in one" oil like the plague since as it dries out it turns into varnish (ask me how I know...). For grease on moving parts (but not the cork drag...) I use Kendall GT high temp grease (it's blue in color and a single tub will last you a lifetime.. More is not better with grease... use it only where needed (remember grease catches dirt and holds it in place until you remove the old grease.... Use what the manufacturer recommends for cork drags (Me, I prefer to use Shimano's drag grease, part # DRAGGR...).

In use... after each day on the water simply strip off the fly line down to the backing then rinse off compete reel and fly line in freshwater (use the fan setting with the hose - a hard stream may push salt into places you can't reach... When done, wind the line back onto the reel while wet - then loosen the drag and you're ready to go... Resist the temptation to immerse the reel into a soapy solution since that removes lubricant while cleaning... You need that lubricant to stay in place...
Hope this helps - along with flushing out your reel at the end of each day... do the same for your rod - paying particular attention to the guides and reelseat areas...


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## Finn Maccumhail (Apr 9, 2010)

el9surf said:


> Abel specifically says neatsfoot oil.


Cool. I’ve never used Abel reels so I wasn’t sure I just wanted to check as it’s an expensive reel.


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## brokeoff (Sep 2, 2016)

I received the oil and grease yesterday. Last night I broke down the reel and gave it a scrub with a plastic brush and water. It's looking clean and I just want to make sure the grease goes back on correctly.

I have another matching reel to use as a guide. I wanted to know if the "teeth" on the drag plate get grease applied directly to them or if the grease that I have seen there was just transferred from the pawl. Also, if there any tool I can use to apply a small bead of grease near the center of the drag plate where the bearings (i think?) touch.


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## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

The tip of a small screwdriver makes a pretty good tiny spatula for placing grease exactly where you want it. And yes, it's the "teeth" that get the grease -but only just a bit is all that's needed. It will transfer to the tip of the pawl in use...

For bearings (if you can access them) I'd use a different approach after you clean them thoroughly and dry them off... Use a good quality gun oil on each side of the bearing covers - then work it into the bearing (I like to mount a bearing on the end of a small paint brush handle (or the tip end of a pair of small needle nosed pliers) so that the inner bearing is held in place while you spin the bearing back and forth with your finger to work the oil down into the race. Once your race is lubed with oil then a light coating of grease on the bearing covers pretty much water-proofs the bearing (and holds the oil in on the race). Reel bearings I've treated that way last for years in hard, hard commercial use (I learned to do this with spin and plug casting reels with multiple bearings that are badly exposed to saltwater...).

Hope this helps.


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