# Sticky  All Things Rod Building



## BayStYat

anything rod building related


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## Backwater

What's a good starter set to get going?


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## BayStYat

Backwater said:


> What's a good starter set to get going?


I made my first hand wrapper out of scrap wood. cost me about $10.


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## Backwater

What about a rod turner? I've been thinking about making my own rods too.

There is a green blank out of New Zealand. Does anyone know anything about them?

Also, where's a good source for Pac Bay components.


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## BayStYat

Backwater said:


> What about a rod turner? I've been thinking about making my own rods too.
> 
> There is a green blank out of New Zealand. Does anyone know anything about them?
> 
> Also, where's a good source for Pac Bay components.


need to get a rod dryer. ebay for about $25. There are many places for components. Mudhole is a start. search rod building components on google. you will be surprised how many retailers there are.

I have American Tackle power wrapper. I can wrap guides and also finish with mine. its more $$$ but more convenient.

you can get a hand wrapper for around $50, I made my first one.

https://www.google.com/search?q=han...ved=0ahUKEwi8maPo8oLLAhWCRCYKHQ38C_MQ_AUIBygC

I really liked my hand wrapper, but the power wrapper offered more options.


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## jonrconner

The green blank from NZ is likely a CTS, they're available in many colors, they have a website, ctsfishing.com. They're super nice blanks, extremely light swing weight, great casting rods, not cheap. I have 8 of them, a friend of mine in Highland Beach sells them, Herb at hnlcustomrflyods.
JC


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## byates

Backwater said:


> What's a good starter set to get going?


A lot of info at rodbuilding.org (go to the photo section, "tools"), or rodbuildingforum.com and check the pinned topics. 2 great resources


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## BayStYat

New Batson REV7944 build starting.

Custom AA Cork with Birch inlay and green burl. Just turned it this week.


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## Backwater

BayStYat said:


> New Batson REV7944 build starting.
> 
> Custom AA Cork with Birch inlay and green burl. Just turned it this week.



Looks nice. One thing to remember, i'ts easier on your hand, over longer periods of time (with less hand fatigue) to hold a thinner cork handle vs a thicker cork handle. I've past up many rods due to the handles being too thick.


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## Snooknut

I have the pac-bay power wrapper and it saves time for sure. I bought an extra 3' piece for longer rods. Get bit outdoors is another central florida supplier that competes with mudhole. That blank you are talking about may be a company called Epic. The have both glass and graphite fly blanks


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## Snooknut

Backwater said:


> What about a rod turner? I've been thinking about making my own rods too.
> 
> There is a green blank out of New Zealand. Does anyone know anything about them?
> 
> Also, where's a good source for Pac Bay components.



http://swiftflyfishing.com


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## Backwater

Snooknut said:


> http://swiftflyfishing.com


Interesting concept about the s-glass rods. No the color of the rod blanks I'm referring to is about the same color as the BVK (not saying it's the same blank). Though that green on the Epic rods is cool.


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## Backwater

jonrconner said:


> The green blank from NZ is likely a CTS, they're available in many colors, they have a website, ctsfishing.com. They're super nice blanks, extremely light swing weight, great casting rods, not cheap. I have 8 of them, a friend of mine in Highland Beach sells them, Herb at hnlcustomrflyods.
> JC


Ooo nice but expensive.


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## jonrconner

"Ooo nice but expensive."

Well, relatively, not like Sage, but more expensive than Batson, they're up to about $400 now, they've gone up a lot in the two years. The final product is comparable (better IMO) to any of the top priced rods and you build exactly like you want it.
The Epic blanks are all trout stuff and they're are made by CTS.
JC


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## KnotHome

I built my setup using a sewing machine motor I found at good will for the wrapper and a rotisserie for the dryer. The motors are mounted on a 2X4 with a hinged 1X6 for the laid out section.


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## ifsteve

Gonna disagree a little with Ted on the cork handles. Since you are talking building your own here the size of the handle should correspond to what fits your hand. I have long fingers and while I don't like a "fat" handle a skinny one doesn't fit well and gives me crapmed fingers since I have to curl them up too tight!


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## byates

BayStYat said:


> New Batson REV7944 build starting.
> 
> Custom AA Cork with Birch inlay and green burl. Just turned it this week.


That's a great grip. Curious about the blank.....all the Revelations I've built have been satin black, and that one looks grey?

A couple of mother/son rods I did for a friend for christmas. Both MHX, a 9wt. and a 7wt.

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a232/byates103/IMG_1490_zpszg5xldtd.jpeg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a232/byates103/IMG_1480_zpsmdemvoal.jpeg


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## byates

byates said:


> That's a great grip. Curious about the blank.....all the Revelations I've built have been satin black, and that one looks grey?
> 
> A couple of mother/son rods I did for a friend for christmas. Both MHX, a 9wt. and a 7wt.
> 
> http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a232/byates103/IMG_1490_zpszg5xldtd.jpeg
> 
> http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a232/byates103/IMG_1480_zpsmdemvoal.jpeg


try this again


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## byates

byates said:


> try this again


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## BayStYat

byates said:


> That's a great grip. Curious about the blank.....all the Revelations I've built have been satin black, and that one looks grey?
> 
> A couple of mother/son rods I did for a friend for christmas. Both MHX, a 9wt. and a 7wt.
> 
> http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a232/byates103/IMG_1490_zpszg5xldtd.jpeg
> 
> http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a232/byates103/IMG_1480_zpsmdemvoal.jpeg


Byates,

That is my turning mandrel in the pic. I like MHX also. I built many MHX rods. I fell in love with Batson when I built my first RX8. Now they offer an RX9. 

Awesome looking build


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## Vertigo

These links might be of interest to rod builders. If you're strictly "Buy American", don't look.
The nano Toray carbon fly rod blanks are about $15 a pop. Unfortunately MOQ is 50.

http://www.flyfishingsupplier.com/index.php?id=product&cate=rod-building&pageid=1
http://www.flyfishingsupplier.com/index.php?id=product&keywords=rod+blank


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## GG34

Bay, the batson blanks are called rainshadow? Or is that a spinoff company from batson. I saw them on sale for cheap and thought it would be good route to go to practice with for the first build.


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## BayStYat

GG34 said:


> Bay, the batson blanks are called rainshadow? Or is that a spinoff company from batson. I saw them on sale for cheap and thought it would be good route to go to practice with for the first build.


No sir. They recently released there new line of Rainshadow blanks. 

Probably found the older models on clearance


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## GG34

BayStYat said:


> No sir. They recently released there new line of Rainshadow blanks.
> 
> Probably found the older models on clearance


OK thanks. Would they be good for a first time build?

Vertigo, I didn't see any prices on that list you posted. Am I missing something?


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## Vertigo

GG34 said:


> OK thanks. Would they be good for a first time build?
> 
> Vertigo, I didn't see any prices on that list you posted. Am I missing something?


Try this link for prices: http://leichichina.en.made-in-china...arbon-Helical-Core-Fly-Fishing-Rod-Blank.html


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## GG34

Vertigo said:


> Try this link for prices: http://leichichina.en.made-in-china...arbon-Helical-Core-Fly-Fishing-Rod-Blank.html



Got it thanks. Unfortunately, min order is 50.


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## BayStYat

GG34 said:


> OK thanks. Would they be good for a first time build?
> 
> Vertigo, I didn't see any prices on that list you posted. Am I missing something?


absolutely


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## Backwater

byates said:


> try this again


Whoa!!!


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## Backwater

ifsteve said:


> Gonna disagree a little with Ted on the cork handles. Since you are talking building your own here the size of the handle should correspond to what fits your hand. I have long fingers and while I don't like a "fat" handle a skinny one doesn't fit well and gives me crapmed fingers since I have to curl them up too tight!


Steve, if you go back to the thread we had about 4 months ago, we talked about spreading your fingers out along the handle, instead of tight gripping it. That's where thinner handles helps to make that easier.


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## GG34

BayStYat said:


> absolutely


I think you are right. They are the rx6 blanks. You can get them for under 30 bucks for a two piece.


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## Vertigo

This may be neither here nor there about fly rod handles, but it is well known among windsurfers that a thinner handle is easier to grip than a thicker one. Windsurfing is a sport that requires gripping and manipulating a boom (handle) for long periods. Although is seems intuitive that a thick foam padded boom (handle) would be easiest and most comfortable to hang on to, novices soon learn otherwise.


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## ifsteve

Ted and Vertigo, we are probably on the same page. Thin and thick are relative terms. And I agree in general that *somewhat* thinner is better. The handle should meet three criteria.
1. Sized for the rod and its application.
2. Sized to fit your hand with a lean towards thinner vs thicker.
3. Quality material.

....and I much prefer prefabbed cork handles. I have shaped my own handles from cork rings. PITA, although you can get exactly what you want if you are willing to take the time to do this.


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## jonrconner

This is what my handles look like, I'm a fan of the Ritz style grip and I feel strongly that the cork should be turned on the rod shaft as insurance that every ring will be solidly attached to the shaft with no voids, nothing worse than a squishy grip. 
This is a 10 and a 6, the six being quite a bit smaller in diameter that the ten, I also like to push the reel seat as far down as possible and use a short fighting butt, then make the grip longer than standard.
JC


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## BayStYat

jonrconner said:


> This is what my handles look like, I'm a fan of the Ritz style grip and I feel strongly that the cork should be turned on the rod shaft as insurance that every ring will be solidly attached to the shaft with no voids, nothing worse than a squishy grip.
> This is a 10 and a 6, the six being quite a bit smaller in diameter that the ten, I also like to push the reel seat as far down as possible and use a short fighting butt, then make the grip longer than standard.
> JC


Nice work Jon. I love non traditional handles. I am making a Tennessee style handle and butt, completely strait no flare.


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## byates

[/QUOTE]
Those grips look a lot like the old Scott Heli Ply and T Series grips in both shape and dimensions, which were really comfortable. Nice builds!


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## jonrconner

The Heliplies were what sold me on the grip style, still have an 888 that I use for bass fishing.
JC


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

Just started a Matrix 8wt build. My first attempt at rod building. So far the handle/reel seat/winding check are on and my guides are taped on. Hope to wrap them tonight. This could be an addicting hobby....


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## BayStYat

NoeSmyrnaBch said:


> Just started a Matrix 8wt build. My first attempt at rod building. So far the handle/reel seat/winding check are on and my guides are taped on. Hope to wrap them tonight. This could be an addicting hobby....


Awesome. Post pics of the build. It's a requirement. Ahahh


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## byates

jonrconner said:


> The Heliplies were what sold me on the grip style, still have an 888 that I use for bass fishing.
> JC


Some of my favorites ever. Still have my 8-10's and a couple of 11's. Toughest rods I've ever owned, and fun to fish.


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## BayStYat

new handles


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## byates

BayStYat said:


> new handles


well, those are just smokin' hot. What woods did you use? Stabilized I'm assuming?


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## ifsteve

BayStYat said:


> new handles


Well they are pretty or gay. Not sure yet which.....lol


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## HighPlainsDrifter

Nice thread. Birch looks nice. Still waiting on my fly ;-)

Here are a couple of my builds. The feather inlay is a fly rod, the rest are spinning.


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## BayStYat

HighPlainsDrifter said:


> Nice thread. Birch looks nice. Still waiting on my fly ;-)
> 
> Here are a couple of my builds. The feather inlay is a fly rod, the rest are spinning.


Oh man I forgot. Pm me your address. I am sorry I didn't send it. 

Feather inlay looks awesome


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## byates

HighPlainsDrifter said:


> Nice thread. Birch looks nice. Still waiting on my fly ;-)
> 
> Here are a couple of my builds. The feather inlay is a fly rod, the rest are spinning.


nice builds, and nice weave on that blue one. Like the olive leaf in gold on there too.


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## byates

Hot off the wrapper, another 7wt MHX 4pc. Going to a friend's son in CO.


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## BayStYat

Build #2 headed to the Blue Ridge Mountain area. Almost complete just need to wrap the guides and having my wife hand write all rod details. I write like a chicken.

Batson REVF794-4 walnut inlay in cork


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## Jason

Glad I found this thread, some great work in here! Just did my first fly rod to surprise my dad with. Mesquite grip turned from wood I cut from the family farm with red oak inlays. Also can't say enough good things about Batson/Rainshadow!


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## byates

BayStYat said:


> new handles


Bay, I'm really curious about the techniques used on these grips.......dyes, lamination schedule, finish,etc. Are the woods stabilized, and if so, did the process affect the lam glues? thanks.


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## BayStYat

byates said:


> Bay, I'm really curious about the techniques used on these grips.......dyes, lamination schedule, finish,etc. Are the woods stabilized, and if so, did the process affect the lam glues? thanks.


sorry byates, 

I purchased them. I know its Colorwood but as for the process I have no clue. I am not that talented with that type of wood art. HAHAHA


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## HighPlainsDrifter

Spin rod build with a Clemson theme for a customer. I'm planning of marbling the white areas. Not too shabby.


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## Backwater

HighPlainsDrifter said:


>


Are those feathers hand painted, an inlay sticker or actual feathers inlaid into epoxy?


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## BayStYat

Backwater said:


> Are those feathers hand painted, an inlay sticker or actual feathers inlaid into epoxy?


real feathers with epoxy laid over. Its not easy, he did a great job


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## Backwater

BayStYat said:


> real feathers with epoxy laid over. Its not easy, he did a great job


Sweet! Nice touch!


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## HighPlainsDrifter

Thanks for the kind words! Not sure if this will work, but here is a video of one of my latest wraps:




__ https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=1056805921054084


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## Blue Zone

Backwater said:


> What about a rod turner? I've been thinking about making my own rods too.
> 
> There is a green blank out of New Zealand. Does anyone know anything about them?
> 
> Also, where's a good source for Pac Bay components.


Ted,

I found myself wandering through this thread for the first time. Some great creations on here.

You might be thinking about Epic out of NZ. The have glass and graphite blanks in just about any color. They also sell finished rods:
http://swiftflyfishing.com/collections/fly-rod-blanks

I like their catch phrase; *Do Epic Shit*


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## Backwater

Blue Zone said:


> Ted,
> 
> I found myself wandering through this thread for the first time. Some great creations on here.
> 
> You might be thinking about Epic out of NZ. The have glass and graphite blanks in just about any color. They also sell finished rods:
> http://swiftflyfishing.com/collections/fly-rod-blanks
> 
> I like their catch phrase; *Do Epic Shit*


There is a pretty good fly club in Sarasota called the Mangrove Coast Fly Fishers that meets downtown near the water at the Sarasota Garden Club. They meet at 6pm on the 4th Wednesday of every month there. Look up a guy name Russ Ballagh (short stocky with a big belly ). Anyways, he's a great rod builder and can get you started if you wanted to do that. I've been meaning to get together with him, but he's on the south side of Sarasota and I haven't had the time to get with him.


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## Blue Zone

Backwater said:


> There is a pretty good fly club in Sarasota called the Mangrove Coast Fly Fishers that meets downtown near the water at the Sarasota Garden Club. They meet at 6pm on the 4th Wednesday of every month there. Look up a guy name Russ Ballagh (short stocky with a big belly ). Anyways, he's a great rod builder and can get you started if you wanted to do that. I've been meaning to get together with him, but he's on the south side of Sarasota and I haven't had the time to get with him.


Thanks for the tip. I closed the chapter of rolling my own (spin rods) in the early 80's. First one was a mild disaster, the next couple were ok. I'm pretty well covered with five of those green "fresh water"  rods and I doubt I could come anywhere close to their build quality. If one of mine gets trashed or gone, I'd be really tempted to try to build one of those Epics though.

I might stop by one of the meetings anyway to see what's going on so I'll look for your guy; there's a tackle shop here that will give you a discount if you belong to a fishing club.


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## bjtripp83

the color scheme will repulse even the carp in lake hartwell. sorry you had to make it, equal protection i guess. 




HighPlainsDrifter said:


> Spin rod build with a Clemson theme for a customer. I'm planning of marbling the white areas. Not too shabby.


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## HighPlainsDrifter

bjtripp83 said:


> the color scheme will repulse even the carp in lake hartwell. sorry you had to make it, equal protection i guess.


I was none too pleased. He said he wanted it LOUD. When I delivered it to him, I confiscated his flares because he can wave that rod around and easily be seen from shore.

Here are a couple more i just finished:
Rolling Stones tongue weave with black widow spiders.









Green generic pattern over blue marbling.


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## BayStYat

back to work on the Kabuto 8053 glass. This rod is absolutely beautiful to cast.


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## LowHydrogen

BayStYat said:


> back to work on the Kabuto 8053 glass. This rod is absolutely beautiful to cast.


I really like those Kabuto blanks, esp the white. I'd like to have one with the natural silk/clear wrapping on the guides. 

Nice looking rod.


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## BayStYat

LowHydrogen said:


> I really like those Kabuto blanks, esp the white. I'd like to have one with the natural silk/clear wrapping on the guides.
> 
> Nice looking rod.


let me know i can build you one. see @southlandflyco on instagram


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## andrewwa

What is your favorite 9 wt blank around $100? I am looking at the 1 pc MHX and Gatti G5. I live in NE so it will be used for the salt. I am looking for something that can handle long bellied lines, intermediates, and sinking lines.

Also, is it possible to glue on the real seat and cork, wrap the guides, and turn the cork at the very end? I have glued my reel seat and cork on my 3 wt 7'6" rx6 but am still waiting on the parts I need to build my power rod wrapper/lathe. I have everything else I need though.


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## KnotHome

andrewwa said:


> Also, is it possible to glue on the real seat and cork, wrap the guides, and turn the cork at the very end? I have glued my reel seat and cork on my 3 wt 7'6" rx6 but am still waiting on the parts I need to build my power rod wrapper/lathe. I have everything else I need though.


I haven't built enough fly rods to answer that part, but you can definitely turn your cork at the end. It's what I usually do. Just be careful when sanding the edges. I cover the seat and rod where it meets the cork with masking tape so I can work quickly and care free. Just make sure your finish is well cured.


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## byates

BayStYat said:


> back to work on the Kabuto 8053 glass. This rod is absolutely beautiful to cast.


Very nice. Did you have to get on a waiting list for that blank? I've tried to get one in the past, but always out of stock.


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## byates

andrewwa said:


> What is your favorite 9 wt blank around $100? I am looking at the 1 pc MHX and Gatti G5. I live in NE so it will be used for the salt. I am looking for something that can handle long bellied lines, intermediates, and sinking lines.
> 
> Also, is it possible to glue on the real seat and cork, wrap the guides, and turn the cork at the very end? I have glued my reel seat and cork on my 3 wt 7'6" rx6 but am still waiting on the parts I need to build my power rod wrapper/lathe. I have everything else I need though.


I have a few of the MHX 9wt 1 pc. rods, and they are great. Load a bit better with a 10wt floating, but do just fine with a 9wt intermediate or sinking. Been using a 10wt Rio Technical Tarpon taper on that rod and it is perfect. And that is a very long belly line (60'?).


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## andrewwa

byates said:


> I have a few of the MHX 9wt 1 pc. rods, and they are great. Load a bit better with a 10wt floating, but do just fine with a 9wt intermediate or sinking. Been using a 10wt Rio Technical Tarpon taper on that rod and it is perfect. And that is a very long belly line (60'?).


Thanks. That was the exact line I was looking at for when it warms up here. Do you have any other recommendations for a blank in that price range? A couple of them like the bvk and mangrove come to mind. How do they compare to an exclusive blank manufacturer?


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## BayStYat

byates said:


> Very nice. Did you have to get on a waiting list for that blank? I've tried to get one in the past, but always out of stock.


Kabuto ships a month after placing the order. Whats crazy is that once shipped it took 3 days from Japan to my door in Mississippi.


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## BayStYat

Turning the cork on the blank is scary, if you over turn your basically stuck with it. I always glue and turn on a mandrel.


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## byates

andrewwa said:


> Thanks. That was the exact line I was looking at for when it warms up here. Do you have any other recommendations for a blank in that price range? A couple of them like the bvk and mangrove come to mind. How do they compare to an exclusive blank manufacturer?


I'm a big fan of the MHX blanks, especially in that price range. I'm not a fan of those particular TFO rods in the 7-8 wt's that I've cast; can't comment on the other sizes. You might take a look at the MHX 2 pc rods if you are considering their 1 pc models. I prefer the action on my 2-pc 7wt to my 1-pc 7wt, and will be easier to repair should I need to.


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## BayStYat

I have built on many MHX and Batson blanks, Batson is MUCH better in quality and performance.


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## BayStYat

New customer rod on the bench. Batson RX9 Eternity 2 5wt 9'

yard casted 70 feet with minimal effort.


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## bjtripp83

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/2002759789/focus-fly-fishing-rods/

what do you think of this venture? just curious. not really impressed based on the information theyre supplying--e.g., first "features" discuss rod tube and sock, no mention of the material or quality of the blanks.


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## HighPlainsDrifter

Phone pics so bear with me. This is a 10' 3wt I built for a guide in NC. There is about 22 feathers in that inlay.


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## jboriol

Very cool thread...must...not...start...new hobby...Ugh!


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## LowHydrogen

Still working on my Rainshadow RX7. Ti guides, removable fighting butt, I cut the blank down to 8'6" 2" from top 4" from bottom. Here is some of the progress
View attachment 2685
View attachment 2687
View attachment 2688
View attachment 2689
View attachment 2690
View attachment 2691


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## BayStYat

LowHydrogen said:


> Still working on my Rainshadow RX7. Ti guides, removable fighting butt, I cut the blank down to 8'6" 2" from top 4" from bottom. Here is some of the progress
> View attachment 2685
> View attachment 2687
> View attachment 2688
> View attachment 2689
> View attachment 2690
> View attachment 2691


very nice. love custom!


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## LowHydrogen

Thanks man, I got the TM lite, going to epoxy soon, I've got to order another tip top, the one they sent me isn't the right size.


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## LowHydrogen

Update, the TM Lite is great. Still not finished with the rod, but took it out to cast in the yard, WOW, I think I'm a Batson convert. This thing is pretty fast and has a ton of back bone, but the tip flexes really nice. Surprised it feels as nice as it does at the tip considering I trimmed it. Was throwing 65'+ with a single back cast and very little haul. I was using Wulff BTT 8wt, the line felt a little light and I may try one of my Redfish taper lines and see how it likes that. Now the best part, this is one of the most accurate rods I have. I feel like I have better control of what my line is doing than with my other rods. Wherever I look is where my line goes, was nailing hook/curve casts around obstacles in the yard with ease, this is something that I've always had to really concentrate on to do effectively. These things are always subjective, so I guess the best way to put it into words is that the rod is powerful but easy at. Disclaimer ,I have only thrown a couple premium ($850+) rods.
Still need to try and match the fighting butt to the grip, working on that with a tea stain method..... We'll see how that goes....
View attachment 2931
View attachment 2932
View attachment 2933


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## Backcountry 16

Very nice work good looking rods you build there.


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## LowHydrogen

Thanks I'm still trying to figure out what to do to match the butt to grip, the tea helped, but still not quite there. I bought the components a little at a time when I got a good deal, mostly off eBay. So if I don't get the cork coloring just perfect it's not the end of the world, I have less than $120 in it.


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## mtoddsolomon

BayStYat, have you heard about Moonshine Rod Co? They have a rod building kit I just saw today and I asked the guy about the blanks. He said "I can say that it is very comparable to a BVK. They are great blanks and made in the same factories as many very expensive brands." For the price I thought I'd give it a shot.


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## Forcefed

A few rod builds I've completed recently.


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## byates

Forcefed said:


> A few rod builds I've completed recently.


Forecefed.....your tiger wraps look great! What were your thread make/colors on the blue/purple one?


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## Forcefed

Thanks man, they are a work in progress. The bottom tiger is teal, purple, and red bottom threads and a top black with two sacrificials.


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## Forcefed

Another inshore build, twin to the lime green build from above.


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## 994

I wish there were enough people to justify having a rod building forum here.


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## HighPlainsDrifter

Glued and turned this over the weekend. I'm going to put it on my Epic Packlight. Pretty stoked at how it came out. It may be a while before it gets mounted because I landed a couple of customers today. Once again, my personal rod gets put on the back burner. Its a good problem to have!


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## HighPlainsDrifter

Spun some thread onto a crank bait rod today:


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## browndogrods

Nice wraps, I don't have that amount of patients....... Has anyone built a Rainshadow Eternity 2 8wt? I looking to built another 8wt and am curious about these blanks. I enjoy casting the orvis Helios 2 rods, built a 7wt last Spring, but was thinking of saving a few hundred on an Eternity 2 if the reviews are solid. Rod would be primarily used for beating the mangrove banks. Thanks, BDR


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## JaxLaxFish

Can someone tell me a good place to order a Batson/Rainshadow blank? I like the look of the Revelation 8wt but I couldn't seem to find a dealer in Florida so I guess I'll have to order. Is anyone familiar with this rod? I'm looking for a rod that isn't excessively fast.


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## Forcefed

Try therodroom.com


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## devrep

My favorite handle of all time is the American Tackle Aero comfort reel seat with split grip. Just fits me perfect.


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## byates

JaxLaxFish said:


> Can someone tell me a good place to order a Batson/Rainshadow blank?


I use Utmost Enterprises. Great service, quick turnaround. Not the easiest site to order from, but the service makes up for it. Second choice is Shoff Tackle. Both offer very fair shipping rates, unlike some of the others.


----------



## Smackdaddy53

mosquitolaGOON said:


> I wish there were enough people to justify having a rod building forum here.


Let's see if we can talk Patrick into it! I got back into twisting a few. Just finished two about ten minutes ago.


----------



## Smackdaddy53

View attachment 5567
View attachment 5566

Tigers are hell to get a good picture of. Maybe I should take some in sunlight. 
The red and grey is a three layer tiger. Black and white on bottom, red with one sacrificial then grey with one sacrificial. The red looks like it is on top but the grey thread went transparent in spots and looks like smoke. It was a cool accident.


----------



## JaxLaxFish

byates said:


> I use Utmost Enterprises. Great service, quick turnaround. Not the easiest site to order from, but the service makes up for it. Second choice is Shoff Tackle. Both offer very fair shipping rates, unlike some of the others.


Thanks, hopefully I'll be getting started on this soon.


----------



## WhiteDog70810

I am thinking about getting to rod building for fun and I have some questions.

1.) What tools should I have to start? I'd lean towards used mid-grade stuff if I could find it, not the el cheapo stuff. What should I expect the initial set up cost to be?

2.) You all are turning out some beautiful stuff and I am sure it took years to develop the skills. However, is it reasonable to expect to turn out a plain, neat, serviceable rod on the first try or should I plan on making a few disposable snoopy poles to get my feet wet?

3.) How in the world do you feel a blank and know you want to build around it? I've never seen a rod blank in person in my life nor do I even know where to look. I have neven even known anyone with a custom rod. It seems like you'd have to read the product description on line, make a gut decision and order the blank sight unseen more often than not.

Nate


----------



## fjmaverick

WhiteDog70810 said:


> I am thinking about getting to rod building for fun and I have some questions.
> 
> 1.) What tools should I have to start? I'd lean towards used mid-grade stuff if I could find it, not the el cheapo stuff. What should I expect the initial set up cost to be?
> 
> 2.) You all are turning out some beautiful stuff and I am sure it took years to develop the skills. However, is it reasonable to expect to turn out a plain, neat, serviceable rod on the first try or should I plan on making a few disposable snoopy poles to get my feet wet?
> 
> 3.) How in the world do you feel a blank and know you want to build around it? I've never seen a rod blank in person in my life nor do I even know where to look. I have neven even known anyone with a custom rod. It seems like you'd have to read the product description on line, make a gut decision and order the blank sight unseen more often than not.
> 
> Nate


1. The gear isnt really the most important part of it. Its just takes time and patience. I would recommend looking at a mudhole class. There are tons of online resources if you want to learn on your own also. Plenty of people have made wrappers out of wood that work just as good as anything you buy in a store. Its a really simple concept. I have a basic crb hand wrapper and my dad has an alps power wrapper. He can wrap a rod a lot faster but it doesn't make the rod any better.

2. You can absolutely make a good usable rod the first time around as long as you take your time and pay attention. I know a lot of people that still fish with the very first rod they ever made. One of the best part about rod building is you learn how to repair rods also.

3. Pick your reel first and it should help narrow down the blank. The angle of the reel on the reel seat can factor into how you place your guides.


----------



## Fish-N-Fool

I would love to get into this, as if I didnt have enough hobbies...I do have a bunch of reloading equiptment that i no longer use. If someone would be interested in trading some rod building for reloading stuff....


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## andrewwa

Whats the best casting 12 wt tarpon blank under 200? TFO doesnt sell any of their 12wt blanks except for the TCIRX which I have cast and did not like.


----------



## K3anderson

sage One blank source?


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## HighPlainsDrifter

K3anderson said:


> sage One blank source?


You are going to have trouble finding one because of the sale that they went on. There are a few of the lighter weights out there. I saw one 909 after a google search but it's across the pond.


----------



## Finn Maccumhail

Speaking of rod blanks, anybody have experience with the Biscayne Co. Billy Baroo blanks? Specifically their 1-piece models.


----------



## HighPlainsDrifter

I finished up this MHX 9' 10wt one piece rod today. I made the grips from cork and birch bark, and turned the seat out of a piece of maple burl I had lying around. The stripper guides are Fuji, and the snake guides are REC recoils that I put locking wraps on. Reel seat hardware is Lemke titanium. This thing shoots line like its a scalded dog with its tail on fire.


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## dingoatemebaby

Beautiful wrap! I picked up Billy Vivona's book years ago but haven't found the time to try out anything this wild!


----------



## Finn Maccumhail

Bump for my Biscayne/Billy Baroo question


----------



## Rod_Gentry

Fish-N-Fool said:


> I would love to get into this, as if I didnt have enough hobbies...I do have a bunch of reloading equiptment that i no longer use. If someone would be interested in trading some rod building for reloading stuff....


Not sure what you need, but I built dozens of rods including commercially, and commercial repairs when I worked in a fly shop, pretty much by hand. I used a drill to turn the handles; did the wraps by hand without any tools at all, including thread books etc... Still think it is the best way to go; and I bought a BBQ motor at some cost for the drying, but today ebay would give you a slow motor for pennies.


----------



## byates

Finn Maccumhail said:


> Speaking of rod blanks, anybody have experience with the Biscayne Co. Billy Baroo blanks? Specifically their 1-piece models.


I have an 8wt. They are really tough rods, but need some updating as they now seem a little heavy compared to modern rods. Fast action. I really like the MHX 1-pc blanks.


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## Finn Maccumhail

byates said:


> I have an 8wt. They are really tough rods, but need some updating as they now seem a little heavy compared to modern rods. Fast action. I really like the MHX 1-pc blanks.


Thanks for the info. I was looking for the MHX 1pc blanks and I think they've been discontinued.


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## HighPlainsDrifter

Finn Maccumhail said:


> Thanks for the info. I was looking for the MHX 1pc blanks and I think they've been discontinued.


You can get 8-11wt one piece MHX blanks here:

MHX-One-Piece-Fly-Blanks


----------



## fjmaverick

Been wanting to build a fly rod lately but dont really know where to start with guides or a blank. I would like a 4 piece 4-5 wt. Something I can use in small creeks or streams when I go back home to upstate new york.

Anyone have any recommendations?


----------



## HighPlainsDrifter

What is your budget? 5 wt seems big to me for streams and small creeks. I just finished a 4wt Epic backlight that will be for sale very soon. Its a backpack rod though, 5 piece. Give me some more details i.e: target species, flys used, and length and I might be able to help you find what you are looking for.


----------



## fjmaverick

HighPlainsDrifter said:


> What is your budget? 5 wt seems big to me for streams and small creeks. I just finished a 4wt Epic backlight that will be for sale very soon. Its a backpack rod though, 5 piece. Give me some more details i.e: target species, flys used, and length and I might be able to help you find what you are looking for.


Thanks Id like to keep the cost under 300.
Targeting mostly brook trout and brown trout.
Size is 9' max.
The places I fish are north of the Adirondack mountains in and around Lake Champlain.


----------



## HighPlainsDrifter

You can get a complete 4wt setup here for under $200.
MHXFK-11

If you want to build your own grips and select individual pieces, you will spend a little more. If thats the case, I would recommend looking into Batson and Rainshadow blanks.

If you want to go fiberglass, there are some budget options there as well.


----------



## fjmaverick

HighPlainsDrifter said:


> You can get a complete 4wt setup here for under $200.
> MHXFK-11
> 
> If you want to build your own grips and select individual pieces, you will spend a little more. If thats the case, I would recommend looking into Batson and Rainshadow blanks.
> 
> If you want to go fiberglass, there are some budget options there as well.


Those epic kits look really nice. But shipping might put it just out of my price range.
I would like to get a fiberglass rod for this type of fishing but I am still new to fly fishing so something easy to throw is important as well.

The MHX kit is exactly what I need for another project 
I want to build 2 rods as wedding gifts for the bride and groom (father)


----------



## Gatorgrizz27

I built a 7' fiberglass 3 wt off a $30 eBay blank. I was skeptical but I'd read that you really can't go wrong with any 7' fiberglass 3 wt, they just seem to work well. I spent about $100 total, and the rod is super sweet casting and ridiculously accurate. I'm not a good caster by any measure, but can put the fly inside a shoe box at 20-30 yards with this rod. I took it to NC this summer and really enjoyed it, aside from dealing with 6X tippet!

I bought my parts from here, when you're going for a budget build you need to save on shipping from multiple vendors. 

http://www.flyrodbuildingkits.com/


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## Frank_Venable




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## Smackdaddy53

Frank_Venable said:


> View attachment 11496
> View attachment 11497
> View attachment 11498
> View attachment 11499


Great work!


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## westsidefly

I'm thinking about trying a build. A few guys have mention swiftflyfishing.com, is it a good place to start for a first build?


----------



## Forcefed

Finished up a new surf rod just in time for the mullet run, hopefully get to break it in on a nice poon or blacktip. Lamiglas 10ft super surf 2g with Fuji K’s


----------



## lemaymiami

Nice looking rod - the reel's not bad either...

Years ago when I was a pier rat I built quite a few big (and not so big) sticks with Lamiglass blanks. I still have a few of them around more than forty years later. When graphite came along (I'd been building rods about five years by then and was moved away from Lami (back then they just didn't have the blanks most of us were looking for in graphite). That changed over time but Lamiglass was never as strong down here in south Florida after Fisher, LCI ( the forerunner of G. Loomis), and other makes came available....


----------



## Forcefed

Always interesting to hear from you Bob. 

It’s funny you say that about Lami, as I still consider them to be on the old school side of blank building with a few exceptions. Meaning they still build a lot of moderate action rods, While the “cutting” edge surf blank builders are seem to be trending towards very fast action rods with smaller blank diameters to help keep weight down etc.


----------



## HighPlainsDrifter

This is a rod I recently built for a local charity. It's intended for popping cork fishing for sea trout and redfish here in Beaufort, SC. Fuji guides with under wraps and locking wraps, Fuji seat, Rodgeeks 7'3" blank, and birch and quilted popular grips. Oh I almost forgot, there are some feathers on there as well .


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## Smackdaddy53

HighPlainsDrifter said:


> This is a rod I recently built for a local charity. It's intended for popping cork fishing for sea trout and redfish here in Beaufort, SC. Fuji guides with under wraps and locking wraps, Fuji seat, Rodgeeks 7'3" blank, and birch and quilted popular grips.


I can't see the images


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## HighPlainsDrifter

A 6wt fly rod I built for my nephew for his birthday. Custom turned buckeye burl real seat, custom grip, single foot REC guides with a Fuji stripper, and Lemke seat hardware, on a Rodgeeks blank. Identical thread wraps throughout.


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## HighPlainsDrifter

Smackdaddy53 said:


> I can't see the images


I edited it


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## Backcountry 16

HighPlainsDrifter said:


> A 6wt fly rod built for my cousin for his birthday. Custom turned buckeye burl real seat, custom grip, single foot REC guides with a Fuji stripper, and Lemke seat hardware, on a Rodgeeks blank. Identical thread wraps throughout.


Need anymore cousins. Nice looking work.


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## Smackdaddy53

That is beautiful work!


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## SnailPowered

I am going to venture into building my first fly rod. I have built 3 spinning rods in the past that fish great! 
A bird once told me to buy fly rods rather than building then as the placement of the eyes is one of the most critical factors; get it wrong and it's just waisted time and money.

Can you guys give me some input on eye spacing? I'm most likely going to build a MHX blank for when the new boat is done and I take a keys trip, but I'm not sure if it will be a one piece or 4 piece quite yet. But the benefit will be that Mudhole is about 10 minutes from my job, so shipping isn't going to kill me.


----------



## HighPlainsDrifter

SnailPowered said:


> I am going to venture into building my first fly rod. I have built 3 spinning rods in the past that fish great!
> A bird once told me to buy fly rods rather than building then as the placement of the eyes is one of the most critical factors; get it wrong and it's just waisted time and money.
> 
> Can you guys give me some input on eye spacing? I'm most likely going to build a MHX blank for when the new boat is done and I take a keys trip, but I'm not sure if it will be a one piece or 4 piece quite yet. But the benefit will be that Mudhole is about 10 minutes from my job, so shipping isn't going to kill me.


Tape your guides on and take it out and test cast it. Make notes of where your guides are, move them and test cast again. Keep it up until the rod responds the way YOU want it to. That is the beauty of a custom rod. I disagree with the "bird". Say a company makes 10,000 blanks the guides on all those blanks end up in the same spot. Do all those rods flex the same? No. Not possible. There are a few that end up being in the sweet spot, but there are also a few that end up being not so great. Take the time to find the spine on the blank and build according to that. You will be glad you spent the time flexing and testing your build in the long run. Also, and this is just my opinion, check out CTS over MHX. They are having a free shipping promotion right now. If you are not satisfied with their blank, I would be shocked. In fact, I would probably buy it from you. Good luck!


----------



## SnailPowered

So I took a ride up to


HighPlainsDrifter said:


> Tape your guides on and take it out and test cast it. Make notes of where your guides are, move them and test cast again. Keep it up until the rod responds the way YOU want it to. That is the beauty of a custom rod. I disagree with the "bird". Say a company makes 10,000 blanks the guides on all those blanks end up in the same spot. Do all those rods flex the same? No. Not possible. There are a few that end up being in the sweet spot, but there are also a few that end up being not so great. Take the time to find the spine on the blank and build according to that. You will be glad you spent the time flexing and testing your build in the long run. Also, and this is just my opinion, check out CTS over MHX. They are having a free shipping promotion right now. If you are not satisfied with their blank, I would be shocked. In fact, I would probably buy it from you. Good luck!


I took a ride up to mud hole, and I have a slight "in" over there, for a little more I'm now thinking a Sage. But I will deffinately check out CTS prior to buying. Thanks


----------



## HighPlainsDrifter

The thread work on a St. Croix rod for specs and slot reds currently on my bench. I'll post up more pictures when completed.


----------



## BayStYat

2nd build for repeat customer

4wt for saltwater 

BATSON REV474


----------



## ifsteve

Awesome looking rod my friend!!!


----------



## David Fulton

Hello,

I want to build an 8wt, and I'm interested in Batson's Eternity2 blanks. Any tips on who has the best prices on these blanks would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Dave Fulton


----------



## Smackdaddy53

David Fulton said:


> Hello,
> 
> I want to build an 8wt, and I'm interested in Batson's Eternity2 blanks. Any tips on who has the best prices on these blanks would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Dave Fulton


I’ve had several Eternitys break while flex testing. I’d take a good look at Northfork Composites fly blanks. They are half off right now and made in Washington to order. I have about 25 of their spinning and casting blanks right now and have built on a few. They are top notch. They roll them after you order them, not sitting on a rack getting crooked like Chinese blanks.


----------



## TheAdamsProject

Smackdaddy53 said:


> not sitting on a rack getting crooked like Chinese blanks.


haha. yea ok. Thats funny


----------



## Smackdaddy53

nativejax said:


> haha. yea ok. Thats funny


Sad but true


----------



## David Fulton

Thank you for the NFC suggestion. Unfortunately, I can't justify even the reduced NFC prices.

This rod will be used mostly from a SUP, for in-shore species, like Reds. I want to build as nice a rod as I can, without spending so much that I'm going to have a stroke if something happens to it.

Other blanks that I've looked at are the Pac Bay Quickline and Batson Revelation. I'd also appreciate feedback about those blanks.

Thanks,

Dave


----------



## TheAdamsProject

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Sad but true


Its a shame they havent figured out how to keep their blanks straight while sitting in a rack like Sage, St Croix, T&T, TFO, Epic, CTS or any others. Shame they have to make them one at a time, and then sell them at 50% off and give away a cork handle with each purchase.


----------



## Smackdaddy53

nativejax said:


> Its a shame they havent figured out how to keep their blanks straight while sitting in a rack like Sage, St Croix, T&T, TFO, Epic, CTS or any others. Shame they have to make them one at a time, and then sell them at 50% off and give away a cork handle with each purchase.


Those are not all Chinese sweat shop blanks.


----------



## SnailPowered

Need some feedback from you veteran rod builders.

I just tried a Tiger Wrap on a rod build, 1st layer was a lay 3 take 1, second was a lay 2 take 1, and final layer was lay 2 take 1. 
After second layer there was some pattern, but more like cheetah print. After adding 3rd layer there was almost no pattern to be seen. I was using one coat of high build epoxy on each layer before wrapping the next.

I cut if off and in going to try again from the beginning. My only thoughts are I was packing the threads too tightly and not allowing enough of the under layer to show through.

Thanks for any insight guys.


----------



## Smackdaddy53

SnailPowered said:


> Need some feedback from you veteran rod builders.
> 
> I just tried a Tiger Wrap on a rod build, 1st layer was a lay 3 take 1, second was a lay 2 take 1, and final layer was lay 2 take 1.
> After second layer there was some pattern, but more like cheetah print. After adding 3rd layer there was almost no pattern to be seen. I was using one coat of high build epoxy on each layer before wrapping the next.
> 
> I cut if off and in going to try again from the beginning. My only thoughts are I was packing the threads too tightly and not allowing enough of the under layer to show through.
> 
> Thanks for any insight guys.


Why are you doing so many layers? I think you are covering up the pattern with additional layers. I have done some three layer tigers but only two threads, one being the sacrificial.
Also don’t forget the more coats of finish on the first layer the more movement your tiger will have. Look up Jim Throop’s article on the basics of Tiger Wraps. He is the inventor.


----------



## SnailPowered

The reason for so many layers was because I was using a metallic tape as my first layer, and was still a bit too "flashy" after my second wrap. 

I will read Jim's article over and give it another shot. 
Tiger wraps are not as easy as I thought they would be, as I have done a few basic patterns with great success. It also doesn't help that I am wrapping my rods by hand as I don't have a power wrapper.

Thank you Smackdaddy!


----------



## Smackdaddy53

SnailPowered said:


> The reason for so many layers was because I was using a metallic tape as my first layer, and was still a bit too "flashy" after my second wrap.
> 
> I will read Jim's article over and give it another shot.
> Tiger wraps are not as easy as I thought they would be, as I have done a few basic patterns with great success. It also doesn't help that I am wrapping my rods by hand as I don't have a power wrapper.
> 
> Thank you Smackdaddy!


I feel your pain! Just work your way into more complex tigers. Keep them simple at first. Don’t use too much tension and burnish lightly to keep thread spacing uniform and your tigers will turn out great. Experiment with nylon thread too, it will give some cool effects.


----------



## SnailPowered

Smackdaddy53 said:


> I feel your pain! Just work your way into more complex tigers. Keep them simple at first. Don’t use too much tension and burnish lightly to keep thread spacing uniform and your tigers will turn out great. Experiment with nylon thread too, it will give some cool effects.


I am using strictly nylon for these, as I really like the Smokey look you get when you don't use the CP on the threads prior to the epoxy.
MY end goal is to get a Smokey looking tiger and do a simple, open X pattern over it with the use of pearl nylon and silk just bordering the pattern with a color. Doing this in hopes it will give me very intricate ghost patterns, without looking too busy.
If the tiger doesn't look good or gets lost after the X pattern I will just leave it, and do my final finish over that.

Rod for my wife, teal colored 7'6" Medium action spinning St Croix blank. Really different feeling blank, lots of power in the mid section, but a very soft tip. Im hoping it will help her put some distance on her casts with the whippy tip it has.


----------



## David Fulton

David Fulton said:


> Thank you for the NFC suggestion. Unfortunately, I can't justify even the reduced NFC prices.
> 
> This rod will be used mostly from a SUP, for in-shore species, like Reds. I want to build as nice a rod as I can, without spending so much that I'm going to have a stroke if something happens to it.
> 
> Other blanks that I've looked at are the Pac Bay Quickline and Batson Revelation. I'd also appreciate feedback about those blanks.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Dave


Thank you to everyone who already replied about the Batson Eternity 2 blanks. 

I'd appreciate any additional feedback on the Eternity2, as well as the Batson Revelation and Pac Bay Quickline blank, or any other options for an 8wt that will be used mostly for inshore fishing from a SUP.

Thanks,

Dave


----------



## Pierson

Not new to rod building, but new to fly rod building. Thinking about making myself a saltwater 8 or 9wt fly rod. With my spinning rods, I like to keep the cork/reel seat configuration simple, usually avoiding cut outs and stuff like that. As I look around it seems there a LOT of different options for the foregrip/reel seat/fighting butt configuration. Looking for some advice on the whole fore grip cutout/metal insert fixed fighting butt. My gut says to keep it simple and go with a flush mounted fore grip and an 'on the blank' fighting butt. Pros cons? what do you like best? Also looking for some reel seat suggestions. Something strong & light, double up locking, aluminum, all that good stuff. Thanks!


----------



## TheAdamsProject

@Pierson I build and reccommend building with an inletted full wells to keep things clean between the seat and grip. Also, I always build with the fighting butt fixed onto the blank. I have seen guys use the removable types and they either lose the butt or find out it is now too long to fit in their tube. I have built with a number of seats but my current favorite is the Lemke LC4. He was the machine man behind Struble from back in the day and makes an incredible seat. Double locking nuts and even a cork trim piece for a smooth transition from threads to fighting butt. I buy that seat from Ron at Southwest Custom Rods. I turn all my own cork and then use a crafty cutter to inlet the grip to fit. Also, I know you didnt ask about guides but have really come to like Snake brand Eco coated. They have a concave foot that hugs the blank for super clean wraps and minimal finish. If I do not use Snakes I tend to build with recoils. For strippers I used either LN or MN frame fuji with Alconite or Sic rings. I am in Orlando area if you want to see any examples or need a few pointers.


----------



## Pierson

Hey thanks @nativejax! literally just what I needed to know.


----------



## jhreels

Thought you guys might like this: Building English pattern snake guides is surprisingly easy with the right tools. I made the tooling from some scrap aluminum and brass. The setup shown only produces #6 and #8 guides, but I can also build them in lite or heavy with different wire diameters.


----------



## Pierson

So I just finished up my first fly rod build and wanted to share with you guys. Lots of help from @nativejax to get it right so thanks for that. The blank is a Sage X 9' 8wt. I like my rods very light, simple, & stealthy so that's what I built. I have always like the simple look of the Sage factory rods but not as big a fan of the smaller hard chrome guides. I went with a supreme grade full wells grip with a saltwater anodized aluminum reel seat ending in a cork composite fighting butt. Over sized solid titanium stripping guides with Nanolite inserts. The snake guides and tip top are over sized RECOIL nickel titanium alloy in the black pearl finish. All black wraps with one silver trim above the handle. She weighed in at 3.5 ounces. Sage factory cloth bag and anodized aluminum tube to keep her safe. I have not got her wet yet but plan to test her out on some snook next week.


----------



## TheAdamsProject

@Pierson happy to help and man she is looking sharp!!! If you make your way over to the Lagoon or want some flood tide action in N.FL in a couple months you are welcome anytime!


----------



## Pierson

nativejax said:


> @Pierson happy to help and man she is looking sharp!!! If you make your way over to the Lagoon or want some flood tide action in N.FL in a couple months you are welcome anytime!


Thanks man! I make my way over to NSB about every other month or so. I'll hit you up!


----------



## saltlifedoc

Anyone have BayStYat contact info? I’ve become obsessed with this build and would love to get something similar to this built off a Eternity 2.


----------



## LowHydrogen

saltlifedoc said:


> View attachment 25367
> Anyone have BayStYat contact info? I’ve become obsessed with this build and would love to get something similar to this built off a Eternity 2.


I think he is Southland Fly Co or Southland Fly rod co on Instagram. or PM him on here and it'll send him an email


----------



## saltlifedoc

LowHydrogen said:


> I think he is Southland Fly Co or Southland Fly rod co on Instagram. or PM him on here and it'll send him an email


I sent him a PM a week or so ago just wondered if he was still building rods for new customers.


----------



## LowHydrogen

HighPlainsDrifter said:


> A 6wt fly rod I built for my nephew for his birthday. Custom turned buckeye burl real seat, custom grip, single foot REC guides with a Fuji stripper, and Lemke seat hardware, on a Rodgeeks blank. Identical thread wraps throughout.


In your opinion how's the performance on those Rodgeek blanks?


----------



## HighPlainsDrifter

LowHydrogen said:


> In your opinion how's the performance on those Rodgeek blanks?


I was really impressed with that 6wt, I really wanted to keep it for myself. I'm building an 8wt now that I like a lot, but do not love. Final coats of epoxy may slow it just a bit. I'll post it up in a few days with my impression.


----------



## LowHydrogen

HighPlainsDrifter said:


> I was really impressed with that 6wt, I really wanted to keep it for myself. I'm building an 8wt now that I like a lot, but do not love. Final coats of epoxy may slow it just a bit. I'll post it up in a few days with my impression.


I built a 8' 4wt on a mhx blank. I like the rod but noticed it was a bit slower after I finished the epoxy. I think I could have gotten by with less.... Is that a common problem if you're a little heavy with epoxy? It works fine just not as crisp as I remember it being when I tested it before epoxy. Any advice, thoughts or opinion ?


----------



## TheAdamsProject

@LowHydrogen What finish and thread are you using? I use the Threadmaster lite over size A thread. It can certainly make a difference if you compare it to a high build finish over a size D thread. You probably wouldn't notice on the 8wt but on that 8' 4wt I feel you might.


----------



## HighPlainsDrifter

Here it is. Rodgeeks 8wt with Florida Gators colors thread work, feather inlays, an alligator juniper reel seat, Lemke hardware, snake brand guides, and a cork and birch grip. I was approached by the American Heart Association to donate a rod for one of their local fundraising events. We agreed on auctioning off my services rather than donating a rod that I had already built. The winner wanted an 8wt for fishing the local flats for redfish, and is a UF alum. Hopefully, this one will make him happy.





  








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## HighPlainsDrifter

LowHydrogen said:


> I built a 8' 4wt on a mhx blank. I like the rod but noticed it was a bit slower after I finished the epoxy. I think I could have gotten by with less.... Is that a common problem if you're a little heavy with epoxy? It works fine just not as crisp as I remember it being when I tested it before epoxy. Any advice, thoughts or opinion ?


Yeah, like nativejax said, the more weight you add to the tip section, the slower the rod gets.


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## LowHydrogen

nativejax said:


> @LowHydrogen What finish and thread are you using? I use the Threadmaster lite over size A thread. It can certainly make a difference if you compare it to a high build finish over a size D thread. You probably wouldn't notice on the 8wt but on that 8' 4wt I feel you might.


Thanks for the info. That rod was done with prokote over "A" the thread, but I've since switched to the threadmaster lite due to another issue (curing clarity). The rod is nothing super special. I may eventually cut the guides off, rework, and see what that does.


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## LowHydrogen

HighPlainsDrifter said:


> Here it is. Rodgeeks 8wt with Florida Gators colors thread work, feather inlays, an alligator juniper reel seat, Lemke hardware, snake brand guides, and a cork and birch grip. I was approached by the American Heart Association to donate a rod for one of their local fundraising events. We agreed on auctioning off my services rather than donating a rod that I had already built. The winner wanted an 8wt for fishing the local flats for redfish, and is a UF alum. Hopefully, this one will make him happy.
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Super slick. Go Gators!


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## HighPlainsDrifter

Here is my latest offering. Its a 8'6" CTS Quartz Crystal Glass 6wt in their shoot color. The real seat insert and details in the grip are acrylic that I had custom poured, and then I turned it. Cigar grip done with birch bark. Lemke seat hardware, and Snakebrand guides with silk thread wraps. The feather inlay consists of 30 natural colored feathers including peacock, kingfisher, ringneck pheasant, jungle cock, various hackles, and a couple from my daughter's pet rooster. This thing is so flipping sweet (If I do say so myself).


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## jonrconner

HighPlainsDrifter said:


> Here is my latest offering. Its a 8'6" CTS Quartz Crystal Glass 6wt in their shoot color. The real seat insert and details in the grip are acrylic that I had custom poured, and then I turned it. Cigar grip done with birch bark. Lemke seat hardware, and Snakebrand guides with silk thread wraps. The feather inlay consists of 30 natural colored feathers including peacock, kingfisher, ringneck pheasant, jungle cock, various hackles, and a couple from my daughter's pet rooster. This thing is so flipping sweet (If I do say so myself).
> View attachment 28620
> View attachment 28621
> View attachment 28622
> View attachment 28623
> View attachment 28624
> View attachment 28625
> View attachment 28626
> View attachment 28627
> 
> View attachment 28620



That’s quite a piece of artwork w/o looking overdone! I’m interested in the birchbark grip, does feel anything like cork or is it hard and woody? And, did you harvest it yourself?
JC


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## Smackdaddy53

LowHydrogen said:


> I built a 8' 4wt on a mhx blank. I like the rod but noticed it was a bit slower after I finished the epoxy. I think I could have gotten by with less.... Is that a common problem if you're a little heavy with epoxy? It works fine just not as crisp as I remember it being when I tested it before epoxy. Any advice, thoughts or opinion ?


Voodoo Rods sells CPX+ rod finish that is super lightweight and they use it on fly rods for just that reason. I have only used it as a first coat on conventional rods and guide wraps but it’s some great stuff.


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## HighPlainsDrifter

jonrconner said:


> That’s quite a piece of artwork w/o looking overdone! I’m interested in the birchbark grip, does feel anything like cork or is it hard and woody? And, did you harvest it yourself?
> JC


Thanks Jon. The birch is not as soft as cork, but it's much softer than a hardwood. You can easily dent it with a thumb nail. The way I finish mine causes a very slight ridged feel in your hand which I like a lot. Its a little heavier than cork, but helps to balance out the heavier glass rod. I did not harvest this particular birch. The stuff that grows around me is not suitable. When I travel, I keep my eyes open for fallen trees though. It's very easy to harvest when you find it.


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## TheAdamsProject

The 3wt Brookie. MHX Native 7’6” 3wt with custom cork, red thread wraps with thin black inlays and white tips. Carbon fiber reel seat insert on the Fuji Skeleton with Logo. Last but not least, a mini fighting butt with a 1¢ piece from Spain set in the bottom.


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## Pierson

Gorgeous! The finish on the wraps looks so clean. What epoxy do you use?


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## TheAdamsProject

Pierson said:


> Gorgeous! The finish on the wraps looks so clean. What epoxy do you use?


Thanks man! I use Threadmaster Lite


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## HighPlainsDrifter

Sweet build nativejax!


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## HighPlainsDrifter

My latest build. A 7' North Fork spinning set up. Mahi mahi colors. Custom grips with acrylic fades, feather inlays, and decorative wrap. Fuji corrosion control guides used on this one. Within an hour of delivery, my customer sent a picture of his first fish!


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## BayStYat

2 new builds starting. 7wt Blue Halo 3rd gen and 7wt Batson 9" for Pompano


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## BayStYat

nativejax said:


> The 3wt Brookie. MHX Native 7’6” 3wt with custom cork, red thread wraps with thin black inlays and white tips. Carbon fiber reel seat insert on the Fuji Skeleton with Logo. Last but not least, a mini fighting butt with a 1¢ piece from Spain set in the bottom.
> 
> View attachment 29501
> View attachment 29502
> View attachment 29503
> View attachment 29504
> View attachment 29505


thats top notch sir!


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## ifsteve

BayStYat said:


> 2 new builds starting. 7wt Blue Halo 3rd gen and 7wt Batson 9" for Pompano


Hey buddy nice work I am sure. Going to have some epic fights from Pompano on the *9"* rod.....LOL


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## Flatsaholic

Hey guys,

I have not read through all 9 pages of this thread. If the information I am looking for is already in here I apologize. I would like to build a 12 wt for tarpon. Do you guys have any walkthrough sites or tutorials you recommend for this?


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## BayStYat

ifsteve said:


> Hey buddy nice work I am sure. Going to have some epic fights from Pompano on the *9"* rod.....LOL


hahaha, yea its a new thing.


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## LowHydrogen

Flatsaholic said:


> Hey guys,
> 
> I have not read through all 9 pages of this thread. If the information I am looking for is already in here I apologize. I would like to build a 12 wt for tarpon. Do you guys have any walkthrough sites or tutorials you recommend for this?


Prob already figured it out but Mudhole has quite a few how to videos for different stages of the rod.


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## BayStYat

Blue Halo 7wt Gen 3


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## mro

I'm getting ready to place an order with mud hole to repair an older rod and been thinking of adding a 9'-8W blank using
*Fuji Concept Single-Foot All-Purpose guides.*
Anyone use these guides? 
(titanium) on a fast action graphite blank)


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## Tailer

Question for all you rod builders. I have a few Loomis CC Pro-1 rods that I absolutely adore, but they have a good bit of wear and tear. A few of them need new cork and a few snake guides / tip-tops replaced. My question is, how feasible is it to strip the rod down to the blank and rebuild?


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## fjmaverick

Tailer said:


> Question for all you rod builders. I have a few Loomis CC Pro-1 rods that I absolutely adore, but they have a good bit of wear and tear. A few of them need new cork and a few snake guides / tip-tops replaced. My question is, how feasible is it to strip the rod down to the blank and rebuild?


Its pretty easy to remove guides. Reel seats and grips are a PIA. You risk damaging the blank as most of it involves cutting the epoxy with a razor.


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## Smackdaddy53

Tailer said:


> Question for all you rod builders. I have a few Loomis CC Pro-1 rods that I absolutely adore, but they have a good bit of wear and tear. A few of them need new cork and a few snake guides / tip-tops replaced. My question is, how feasible is it to strip the rod down to the blank and rebuild?


It can be done with a little patience and the right tools. As stated, do not nick the blank.


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## devrep

I re handled an NRX spinning rod







that had a stripped reel seat not long ago and it was pretty easy.


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## LowHydrogen

devrep said:


> I re handled an NRX spinning reel
> View attachment 41938
> that had a stripped reel seat not long ago and it was pretty easy.


Badass antique shotguns, looks like a Ducati 848 in the background, you looking to adoptlol?


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## devrep

The 848 is my son's. I have a Ducati hypermotard though. 1100 CC air-cooled V-Twin. (;


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## Tailer

Thanks for the advice guys, sounds like a good winter project. Any tips on must-have tools to make the deconstruction as painless as possible?


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## State fish rob

I’ve got a couple bins, full of rod making odds & ends 
( handles, guides , thread , glue etc , turning motor 
They need a good home ...... I’m in nc 
Let me know if anyone is interested


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## trekker

Anybody ever used a gear blank to make a fly rod ? Unable to find a fly blank that fits what Im looking for. Possible solution ?


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## Rookiemistake

Havnt built a fly rod yet but have built a bunch of inshore and offshore rods. This was a split grip i made after the split grip va full grip thread on here


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## State fish rob

Guide spacing and rod backbone are key to setting up a blank , not sure how it would transfer Maybe a crappie blank. Some crappie guys will use fly rods to troll, for the rod tip action. Wrap it up !


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## TheAdamsProject

trekker said:


> Anybody ever used a gear blank to make a fly rod ? Unable to find a fly blank that fits what Im looking for. Possible solution ?


Have done a number of them but they don't react like a regular fly rod. Many have a stiffer midsection than most flyrods. What are you wanting to do with it? The ones you typically see are spinning or cranking rod blanks that are listed as Moderate Fast.


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## trekker

nativejax said:


> Have done a number of them but they don't react like a regular fly rod. Many have a stiffer midsection than most flyrods. What are you wanting to do with it? The ones you typically see are spinning or cranking rod blanks that are listed as Moderate Fast.


I'm wanting to build a two hander about 9'6 to 9'9 to toss 500 to 700 grain lines with big musky flies in tow.


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## Hardluk81

You guys have tempted me for too long. I got a little extra jingle so I have three blanks in a cart. How long is the wait “generally” from NFC for delivery?


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## Smackdaddy53

Hardluk81 said:


> You guys have tempted me for too long. I got a little extra jingle so I have three blanks in a cart. How long is the wait “generally” from NFC for delivery?


3-4 weeks


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## Snakesurf

Nice rods, you are truly an artist with the rods and the graphite grips. I have tried a couple of graphite grips but I usually turn cork because I have so much of it. I do like your choice in reel seats too.


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## Guest

Bump.


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## TrojanBob

Hey all, never posted in this section of microskiff.com before. I committed to building fly rods, and chose to get the Mudhole turnkey kit w\ an 8wt rod to get started with. Seems Mudhole is having supplier issues and it will still be a week or so till I get it. In the meantime, I have been trying to figure out where I will buy blanks from, as I want to build a 10 wt for tarpon after getting done with 8wt.

My question is, are 4pc rods just as strong or good as 1pc rods? Would worry too much about for a redfish rod, but this is for a 10wt tarpon rod, which may be on the light side for tarpon.


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## mro

I've got a few rods. 
Not a fan of 4 piece rods altho the selection for 2 piece rods is dwindling and 1 piece rods to me are the best but trouble storing/securing/traveling.

10 wt for tarpon, OK to me up to around 60/70 pounds.
The big ladies I prefer a 12.


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## TrojanBob

I’m going to grow into rod bldg. 10wt is for big reds too. Then an 11/12 build.


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## Snakesurf

Casting Rod: Fuji Point Blank 6'9" Medium Light Power, Extra Fast Action Blank. Fuji Torzite Guides in a Spiral wrap; 1-RV 6mm, 1-KB 5mm, 4-KB 4mm and 3-KT 4mm and a 4.5mm Tip Top. This rod will do it all artificial from Top Waters to plastic Jigs to 1/8 oz. Total rod weight: 3.1 oz. Made for the Shimano Curado DC (Digital Control) baitcaster reel. Embellished with dark green and gold Tiger thread wrap and Curado matching thread colors. The natural Cork / Burl grips and butt are all turned / shaped by hand.


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## fjmaverick

Aldoni said:


> Bump.


Please report back on the blank. I'm looking to build an 8wt soon.


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## GG34

Ok so I fixed my fly rod myself for the first time. Interested in building. I've watched a couple YouTube videos but where do I even start? What is the minimum equipment? Any recs?


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## GG34

Shopping







www.mudhole.com





Any inputs on this?


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## State fish rob

Looks pretty complete , good luck.


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## Snakesurf

GG34 said:


> Shopping
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> Any inputs on this?


You need something to place the blank on that will hold tension to the blank so you can wrap the thread around the foot of the guide to hold it on the blank. The rod components you will need are: Blank, guides, tip top, rod wrapping thread, reel seat, arbor, grips, butt piece and winding checks. The epoxy you will need: A fast setting one to attach the reel seat and grips and a slow setting clear epoxy for the thread wraps that hold the guides to the blank. Some of the thread will require a sealant to keep the epoxy from changing the color, if that is what you want, it is called color protector or CP. Some threads already have it and they are refereed to as NCP and you do not need it. You Tube has plenty of videos to learn what you need and how to use it. There are places on the internet to buy components like: Mudhole, The Rod Room, Get Bit or just Google rod building. Good luck and post your first build.


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## GG34

Thanks. Just ordered all my components


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## Snakesurf

Forgot about tip top hot glue. You will also need some type of burnishing tool to help pack the thread and safety razors to cut tag ends or electrical snips. For burnishing you can use the backside of the safety razor or even your fingernails..


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## GG34

I think the kit comes with it.


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## GG34

I also have the glue from my recent repair. Any suggestions on fly rod blanks?


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## mro

i did my first rod at the kitchen table.
Used the phone book to put tension on the thread.
Rested my elbows on the table.
Razor blade to cut the thread.

You don't have to have all the fancy gear but it helps.
Later I made myself a rod wrapper, thread holder, etc...



Snakesurf said:


> You need something


 Snakesurf pretty much sums it up 
except maybe adding a sewing machine motor to spin the rod blank


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## GG34

I bought the whole kit. It was only$149 in sale from mudhole.


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## mro

GG34 said:


> I bought the whole kit. It was only$149 in sale from mudhole.


Back when I rolled my first rod $149.00 was more money than most made in a week.

Hope you get the joy that comes with your new hobby.
I still do.


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## GG34

Thanks. Looking forward to it.


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## devrep

I know the guy who owns mudhole. his name is Tom and he lives in oviedo fl. they get pretty much everything from china so no surprise they're having supply problems. he was bragging one time in a meeting about what a killing he was making and that chinese tool makers make manufacturing dies for 1/10th the cost of USA toolmakers. he's a total dick and that has nothing to do with using chinese product. just an insufferable guy.


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## GG34

devrep said:


> I know the guy who owns mudhole. his name is Tom and he lives in oviedo fl. they get pretty much everything from china so no surprise they're having supply problems. he was bragging one time in a meeting about what a killing he was making and that chinese tool makers make manufacturing dies for 1/10th the cost of USA toolmakers. he's a total dick and that has nothing to do with using chinese product. just an insufferable guy.



Do you have any other recs on a company to use? Their customer service was good at least. Spent 15 minutes answering questions for me.


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## Snakesurf

GG34 said:


> I also have the glue from my recent repair. Any suggestions on fly rod blanks?


There are just a lot of great blanks out there. 1st How much do you want to spend on just the blank and is made in America important to you? 2nd What is your preference, are you already fly fishing and what are you using? 3rd Do you want a fast rod, medium or slow? If you can answer those questions I can point you in the right direction. I started building fly rods first about 31 years ago.


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## Dadvocate

I have purchased several times from Get Bit use PayPal only. Kevin the owner is a stand up guy and staff has been helpful. They carry Rainshadow blanks that I like building inshore rods from on a budget.
I like visiting Mudhole since I'm only 40 min away. Cool showroom and large inventory. Their staff have always given good advice and great customer service.


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## devrep

mudhole is the biggest I know of. I think Jan sells tackle. I think Jan started this site?





Rod Building Supplies | Lure Making Supplies | Fly Tying Supplies | Fishing Hooks


Jann's Netcraft offers everything a true fisherman needs. Select from rod building supplies, lure making supplies, fly tying supplies and fishing hooks at affordable prices.




www.jannsnetcraft.com


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## Dadvocate

I've learned a ton from Rodbuilding.org and Bloodydecks BDoutdoors.com


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## GG34

Snakesurf said:


> There are just a lot of great blanks out there. 1st How much do you want to spend on just the blank and is made in America important to you? 2nd What is your preference, are you already fly fishing and what are you using? 3rd Do you want a fast rod, medium or slow? If you can answer those questions I can point you in the right direction. I started building fly rods first about 31 years ago.
> View attachment 152724


Beautiful. Where do you get the custom stickers.

I prefer American rods but am open to others. I'm using orvis recon and H2 now. Fast action. Been fly fishing for about 8 years.


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## GG34

Dadvocate said:


> I've learned a ton from Rodbuilding.org and Bloodydecks BDoutdoors.com


I'll check them out. Thanks.


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## GG34

Any opinions on CTS blanks?


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## jmrodandgun

GG34 said:


> Any opinions on CTS blanks?


Great sticks but they can be spendy. I simply don't see the value in their products at full price but there is no doubt about the quality. Personally, I think the epic carbon rods are better bang for your buck and they go on sale more frequently.


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## GG34

jmrodandgun said:


> Great sticks but they can be spendy. I simply don't see the value in their products at full price but there is no doubt about the quality. Personally, I think the epic carbon rods are better bang for your buck and they go on sale more frequently.


Thanks. I'm getting them at about a 20% discount. Do you think that seems more reasonable. Basically 200 for the blank.


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## jmrodandgun

GG34 said:


> Thanks. I'm getting them at about a 20% discount. Do you think that seems more reasonable. Basically 200 for the blank.


At that price point they are all good rods. Careful, don't nuke your budget on $25 stripping guides and $50 cork.


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## GG34

jmrodandgun said:


> At that price point they are all good rods. Careful, don't nuke your budget on $25 stripping guides and $50 cork.


What do you recommend?


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## sidelock

GG34 said:


> Any opinions on CTS blanks?


I build three of them for personal use and I really like them and highly recommend them # 8 MX, # 8X and a #10X. They are light, crisp and a pleasure to cast and fish. I got my blanks direct from the importer in FL.


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## GG34

sidelock said:


> I build three of them for personal use and I really like them and highly recommend them # 8 MX, # 8X and a #10X. They are light, crisp and a pleasure to cast and fish. I got my blanks direct from the importer in FL.
> View attachment 153779
> View attachment 153780
> View attachment 153781


Thanks. Very nice work. I just bought some blanks from North Fork Composites as well.


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## fjmaverick

GG34 said:


> Thanks. Very nice work. I just bought some blanks from North Fork Composites as well.


Just bought ordered some North Fork Delta spinning rods myself.

This is the mhx blank I finished wrapping last night. I have a little clean up left before finishing it today. This is only the 2nd rod I've wrapped so I'm still very much a beginner.


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## GG34

fjmaverick said:


> Just bought ordered some North Fork Delta spinning rods myself.
> 
> This is the mhx blank I finished wrapping last night. I have a little clean up left before finishing it today. This is only the 2nd rod I've wrapped so I'm still very much a beginner.
> View attachment 153930


Nice. I just finished my first one but I just did very basic wraps. How did you do those wraps?


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## fjmaverick

GG34 said:


> Nice. I just finished my first one but I just did very basic wraps. How did you do those wraps?


Its the prowrap fusion variated thread that gives it that look. No special technique required.


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## Chuck Thompson

Anybody do any rod work?was looking at getting some larger fighting butts on my Asquith and crosscurrent. Dm me if anyone is interested


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## 59441

Does anyone know where i can find a rougher cork handle? The last 3 I've used were sourced from mudhole and I'm not in love with the smooth finish of the cork. I prefer a rougher more textured finish (no synthetics either). What I prefer is unusually found on older fly rods. Does age have something to do with it maybe?


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## kjnengr

Flat_Lyin said:


> Does anyone know where i can find a rougher cork handle? The last 3 I've used were sourced from mudhole and I'm not in love with the smooth finish of the cork. I prefer a rougher more textured finish (no synthetics either). What I prefer is unusually found on older fly rods. Does age have something to do with it maybe?



I would say it has almost everything to do with age. As the cork dries, the cracks get bigger and give that rougher feel. I would say for you to buy the cheapest cork possible if you don't want the smoothest texture. Also, if you are having someone custom make you a handle, they can skip the last step of sanding it with higher grit sandpaper. That might keep some of the texture.


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## GG34

Just got into rod building. I posted a hand wrapper and dryer in the for sale section. Pretty much brand new. I upgraded to a power wrapper. Great way to get started.


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## TheAdamsProject

Flat_Lyin said:


> Does anyone know where i can find a rougher cork handle? The last 3 I've used were sourced from mudhole and I'm not in love with the smooth finish of the cork. I prefer a rougher more textured finish (no synthetics either). What I prefer is unusually found on older fly rods. Does age have something to do with it maybe?


Most cork now a days comes with a bunch of filler in the voids as well as a very light skim coat over the grip. It is very thin but gives the illusion you have much nicer cork than you really do. Put that grip on a mandrel and chuck it in a drill. Choose any sandpaper you would like and go lightly until the cork feels like you want it to. If you get real aggressive with it you will pull chunks of filler out out of the voids. 

If you have a power wrapper you can do this with factory rods as well. I just retouched some cork on a Loomis CC Pro1 where he did not like the asymmetrical shape of the grip. Chucked it in the power wrapper and turned it down a little at a time to suit his hand and grip. Much better now.


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## crboggs

The tip section on my NRX is starting to show its age and use...is there any way to bring back the shine or should I just not worry about it?


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## GG34

crboggs said:


> The tip section on my NRX is starting to show its age and use...is there any way to bring back the shine or should I just not worry about it?


Can you post a pic?


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## GG34

Just posted some unopened ProKote thread epoxy in the for sale section. Just want to get rid of it. Brand new.


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## birdyshooter

Alright. Talk me into building my own rods. I have everything I think I'd need from a rod wrapper, dryer, to a lathe. Mostly stuff handed down to me or picked up in hopes of doing it one day. I think that day is closely approaching. I'm thinking about building a 6wt Mangrove with recoil single footers and their insert stripping guides. Searching on mudhole for all the components, but these numbers and sizes mean nothing to me. Is there any kind of guide out there for this stuff? I'd hate to blindly order all of this and find out I was completely wrong. Thanks!!


----------



## GG34

I'm a new builder too. Order the kits for guides. Echo snake guides are good. I prefer recoil guides and reel seats. Expensive but nice. Check out the NFC blanks by Gary Loomis. They are awesome. I sold my production rods after I built it.


----------



## Snakesurf

GG34 said:


> I'm a new builder too. Order the kits for guides. Echo snake guides are good. I prefer recoil guides and reel seats. Expensive but nice. Check out the NFC blanks by Gary Loomis. They are awesome. I sold my production rods after I built it.
> View attachment 159060
> View attachment 159061


Very nice build. Those NFC blanks are really special and are as good as the industry has. The Recoil snake guides are are the lightest and easiest to maintain guide there is.


----------



## 59441

GG34 said:


> I'm a new builder too. Order the kits for guides. Echo snake guides are good. I prefer recoil guides and reel seats. Expensive but nice. Check out the NFC blanks by Gary Loomis. They are awesome. I sold my production rods after I built it.


Finish looks fantastic. I ordered a nfc 1 piece blank. Where / how did you figure out your guide spacing?


----------



## Snakesurf

birdyshooter said:


> Alright. Talk me into building my own rods. I have everything I think I'd need from a rod wrapper, dryer, to a lathe. Mostly stuff handed down to me or picked up in hopes of doing it one day. I think that day is closely approaching. I'm thinking about building a 6wt Mangrove with recoil single footers and their insert stripping guides. Searching on mudhole for all the components, but these numbers and sizes mean nothing to me. Is there any kind of guide out there for this stuff? I'd hate to blindly order all of this and find out I was completely wrong. Thanks!!


Do it, it is not that hard, but you are going in the right direction by asking for help. You Tube can be your best friend at this stage, I wish it would have been around when I first started because it would of saved me a couple of years of figuring things out. The first thing you need to do is learn how to wrap guides. You will need a system that works for you that you can consistently repeat. I use thin strips of tape to hold the guides in place and to hold tag ends of thread when needed. This is only one method so watch you tube and try something that will be easy for you. The next thing you will need to do is learn how to apply epoxy and be patient. The 2 different types of epoxy you will need are one for setting the reel seat and grips (fast curing around 15 minutes set time) and one for covering the wrapped guides (slow curing and around 5 hours to set). You will need a dryer unless you want turn the blank a quarter turn every 5 minutes till the epoxy sets. With guides on fly rods I do not use single foot snake because I do not like the way they cast. Double foot snakes are lighter and let the line slide through them better. It will cast better with double foot snakes. To get started I would just copy an existing rod and its dimensions and guide placement. Maybe a better blank than what you have. Let me know if want something specific and I will try to answer the best I know how.


----------



## GG34

Thanks guys. Really getting into building. I actually am in the process of selling off my production rods. The NFC blanks are incredible. 

As far as guide spacing, NFC has it in their website. I didn't use it though. I used a rod I had as a baseline and static load tested it. Worked out great. The NFC spacing chart had 11 guides on it. I have never seen that many on a 6wt. I was able to use 10. 






"Static Guide Placement - Fly Angler's OnLine"


Static Guide Placement - Part 111 - The Premier OnLine Magazine for the Fly Fishing Enthusiast.



www.flyanglersonline.com


----------



## birdyshooter

@Snakesurf thanks for the information. I have a dryer, so I'm good to go there. I'm also interested in the NFC blanks the guys are building on, but their website is quite lacking. Does anyone have a way to break these blanks down to action/feel or what they might be comparable to?


----------



## GG34

birdyshooter said:


> @Snakesurf thanks for the information. I have a dryer, so I'm good to go there. I'm also interested in the NFC blanks the guys are building on, but their website is quite lacking. Does anyone have a way to break these blanks down to action/feel or what they might be comparable to?


Fly or gear?


----------



## birdyshooter

GG34 said:


> Fly or gear?


Fly


----------



## GG34

birdyshooter said:


> Fly


They have two lines really. The classic and the gamma beta/alpha. There is a third option that is considerably cheaper at the LMX. The classic is apparently older tech but still all were developed by Gary Loomis. I've got a couple classics and after the build I immediately sold my orvis rods. They are smooth. 

The gamma beta is the newest offering and supposed to be a great day action rod. I'm getting ready to build a couple. Check out edge rods. They are the production side of the house. The gamma alpha is the moderate action rods in lower weights for trout guys.

The LMX is supposed to be a rod built to specs tight enough that they can send you just a replacement section of you break it. I don't know anyone with one. I'd pass. 

They are all 68% off right now. Have to put it in the cart to see the discount. I started with the classic just to get my feet wet. Now I'm building in the GB. By all accounts an awesome blank.


----------



## Snakesurf

birdyshooter said:


> @Snakesurf thanks for the information. I have a dryer, so I'm good to go there. I'm also interested in the NFC blanks the guys are building on, but their website is quite lacking. Does anyone have a way to break these blanks down to action/feel or what they might be comparable to?


I have just built on the F series Gamma Beta. They are fast action rods and are very similar to the G Loomis IMX or NRX rod blanks. Kind of a cross between the two. I would imagine the actions on the other LMX, etc are a bit slower and maybe slightly heavier in weight. For a 6 weight I think the LMX would be just fine in the fast version. I have built on the Mangrove and it is a nice blank but not quite as crispy or responsive as I thought it was going to be. For the price at 60% off $125 I think that the LMX FAF906-4 is a bargain and would definitely build that over the Mangrove (picture).


----------



## GG34

I've got the classic in a 6wt. It is great. Just another option. I think you can get it for under $100 in sale.


----------



## GG34

First hand turned casting handle.


----------



## Snakesurf

This is a spinning rod built for my nephew's son. It is built on a Batson / Rainshadow SP843, 7' Fast Action, Medium blank. The guides are Seaguide Hero SSG strippers and Fuji LAG runners, the seat is a Alps BAT-RPD16-1S with custom turned EVA grip, fore grip and butt piece. It was made for the Shimano 2500 Seinna Reel. Just about any any Shimano 2500 should work for it.


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## GG34

Nice snake. I hope to get to your level one day.


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## mro

I'm a fan of single foot guides.
Is the rod optimized for braid?


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## Snakesurf

mro said:


> I'm a fan of single foot guides.
> Is the rod optimized for braid?


Yes braid in the 15 to 20 # would work great for this rod. I tested it with a 10# fluorocarbon line that is slightly larger in diameter than the 8# recommended for the reel. A smaller diameter line as is braid would be great for this reel. I believe the set up would benefit.


----------



## GG34

Snakesurf said:


> This is a spinning rod built for my nephew's son. It is built on a Batson / Rainshadow SP843, 7' Fast Action, Medium blank. The guides are Seaguide Hero SSG strippers and Fuji LAG runners, the seat is a Alps BAT-RPD16-1S with custom turned EVA grip, fore grip and butt piece. It was made for the Shimano 2500 Seinna Reel. Just about any any Shimano 2500 should work for it.
> View attachment 160326
> View attachment 160327
> View attachment 160328
> View attachment 160329
> View attachment 160330
> View attachment 160331
> View attachment 160332


Snake, where did you pick up that reel seat and winding checks? How did you do the red inlay? Do you stop the thread between colors?


----------



## Snakesurf

GG34 said:


> Snake, where did you pick up that reel seat and winding checks? How did you do the red inlay? Do you stop the thread between colors?


I got the reel seat and colored nut from FTU in Houston and the blank came from there also, I picked it up when they were having a sale. I have never used that particular seat and it looked like it would be comfortable and was suitable for up locking. The style grip I was going for was like a full Wells fly grip and this seat made it look right to me. I originally got the reel and matched up the colors to the thread and the nut on the reel seat. The trim bands were wrapped separate but there are some inlayed threads in the middle of some bands. I did a tiger wrap between the rear grip and the butt piece; it does not show up very well in the pictures. In sunlight you can see much better it is a 3D type effect. Here is a picture of one that shows up better. The winding checks are ones that I had and am not sure where I got them, but I used 2 silver swooped ones on the back grip and a dimpled one on the foregrip. I always use metal (Aluminum) winding checks and coat them with wrapping epoxy. You can get them anodized in a bunch of different colors and you can spray paint them yourself if you cannot find the color you want. Here are some sites I use for components so you can order them online and they are trustworthy. Let me know if you have any questions and I will try to answer them. I am more performance based on my rods, but it doesn't hurt to bling em up a little.


Northfork Composites – Next Generation of Gary Loomis Rod Blanks










American Rodbuilders Warehouse-Fishing Rod Building Components


Provide fishing rod building component manufacturer Seaguide's full line products for fly fishing, bass fishing, ice fishing, spinning fishing and casting fishing, rod building supplies, such as reel seats, rod guides, tip tops, hook keepers, fishing rod parts, inserts, blanks, butt caps...




rodbuilderswarehouse.com









Get Bit Outdoors







getbitoutdoors.com












Mud Hole — Your #1 Resource For Custom Rod Building Tools & Supplies!


The world's largest inventory of rod building and tackle crafting components from the best brands — MHX, CRB, Pro Products, Fuji, American Tackle, Pacific Bay and more!




www.mudhole.com












Guides


REC Components



reelseats.com




Also if you are going to build rods the correct way you need to learn from this site;


https://anglersresource.net/


----------



## GG34

Thanks snake. I use a few of those websites already. I've built most of my rods off of NFC blanks so far. Love them.


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## Snakesurf

Here is a Fly Rod I just finished made off a NFC F890-4 (GammaBeta) 9' 8wt 4 piece fast blank. Seaguide Ti framed strippers (16 and 10 mm) with silicon nitride RS rings and REC double foot snakes (5 mm and the rest 4 mm). An Alps HERA7WL2 reel seat. I shaped the cork. I am using a Lamson Speedster reel with SA Grand Slam line.


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## GG34

Snake. I am just getting ready to build that rod. Can you give me the guide spacing you used? Thanks.


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## Snakesurf

NFC Recommends 11 guides but I used 10 (Tip Top is not a guide) so their set up would be 5 guides on the tip section piece of the rod. I didn't want that so I went with 10 to give me 4 on the tip section. The 2 stripper guides need to line up in a straight line to the next double foot snake guide. When looking through the large stripper the smaller stripper and the next snake guide should look like a bullseye. All rods should be built like this. That is the spacing for the strippers and the next snake guide. The height of your largest stripper and the next two guides will make this spacing. I placed the largest stripper about 2" from the ferrule end. I should have spaced it at 3" instead, I think the rod is fairly thick in this part and it would have helped a little with closing the spacing gaps. A thinner made blank or more flex in this area can benefit from the stripper closer to the ferrule end. The distance I came up with for the bullseye was 12" between the large stripper and the smaller stripper and 11" between smaller stripper and the next REC 5 snake guide. That's a place to start; just keep your Largest guide stationary and move the next smaller stripper and snake guide to line up in a bullseye. You can do this on a table top to get the right spacing and you can use twine or the tip section (without guides on it) ran through the middle of the rings to help line them up. To do 10 guides, measured from the tip (center ring to center ring): 4.5", 9.625", 15.5", 22.125", 29.625", 38" and 47.5". The next guides should be spaced at least 10" and no more than 10.5" from the 47.5" mark. The 2 stripper guides and the 8th guide from the tip should be spaced via the bullseye method with the largest stripper coming out to being 2" to 3.5" from the ferrule end. I hope I did not confuse you, but if I did, just ask for clarification. This should give you 10 guides with just 4 being on the tip section. Remember to dry fit everything and mark the rod up to make sure the ferrules are not going to be an issue. On a 4 piece rod all the guides are on the first three sections. Here is an example with a spinning rod guide alignment, it is the same with a fly rod except the reel alignment is not necessary.


----------



## GG34

Thanks Snake. I think I got it. I'll have to reread a couple times. This is the 4th NFC fly rod I've built. I've always used 10 guides. Not sure why they recommend 11. I'm using all REC titanium guides.


----------



## C Brueckner

Hey all, 

Has anyone build a rod on the Ameriglass GTX blank? I’ve been told it’s a faster action glass blank. Could be a really cool 8wt salt water rod.


----------



## 59441

Can someone explain to me why hook keepers aren't a thing for heavier (8wt+) rods?


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## mro

I don't use the hook keepers on the rods I have.
90 percent of the time (even trout fishing) I use 1/0 and larger hooks which could conceivably scratch the blank.
Most of my rods have fighting butts, first so when I set the rod down I can keep the reel from touching and the cork on the butts is easy to replace so I stick a fly into them when I need to stick it somewhere, otherwise I'll set the fly on the deck.

You can wrap a keeper to your rod w/o having a rod wrapper. Wrapped my first rod resting my elbows on the kitchen table and feed the thread through the phone book.


----------



## GG34

I put hook keepers in all my builds


----------



## 59441

Thanks yall. Good thinking mro. I've built a few rods in the past but they're nowhere near nice enough to show off here.

Northforkcomposite has a few LMX blanks on sale.. might pick up an 7wt and a proper drying rack.


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## mro

Flat_Lyin said:


> nowhere near nice enough to show off here.


Come on man 
Some where on this site I've got a a couple rods posted and I'm an amateur compared to most rod turners.


----------



## mro

Flat_Lyin said:


> drying rack.


my rod turner... is an old barbeque rotisserie motor.
Still have it 
Use it for turning epoxy "headed" flies too.


----------



## kjnengr

Flat_Lyin said:


> Can someone explain to me why hook keepers aren't a thing for heavier (8wt+) rods?



On my saltwater setups, I always just hook the fly to the reel. All of my reels either have a hole in the reel foot or the bottom of the reel where the hook can be kept. Even if my rod had a hook keeper, I still wouldn't use it. 

I built a 2 wt sometime this past summer and did not install a hook keeper. I chose to go with a recoil stripping guide and just hook my fly there.


----------



## numbskull

Winter project
Sexyloops Hot Torpedo #6. 
Lemke LC-10 seat
REC Cerecoil collectors (16-10)
REC RSFXB single foot wire. Size 4, then the rest 3's. 
Fixed fighting butt (blank mounted).
3.3 oz.


----------



## Snakesurf

numbskull said:


> Winter project
> Sexyloops Hot Torpedo #6.
> Lemke LC-10 seat
> REC Cerecoil collectors (16-10)
> REC RSFXB single foot wire. Size 4, then the rest 3's.
> Fixed fighting butt (blank mounted).
> 3.3 oz.
> View attachment 167262
> View attachment 167263
> View attachment 167264


Came out really nice and the weight is perfect. What do you think about those Cerecoils? Bill Batson wanted me to look at them when they first came out at a rod building event. I was supposed to be a tester but it never came through because I got too busy at my real job. I was actually about to buy a set for my last Fly build but already had everything needed in my building supplies for the 8wt build. If I was to use a fighting butt, I would of used a full Wells. I really like the look of the half Wells with the butt and I like a half wells on anything lower than a 7wt. I will probably start using a half Wells with a fighting butt now because it is a great idea and looks good too. Are the Lemke real seats pretty light? They look good, better than the RECs.


----------



## numbskull

The Cerecoils are nice although my experience so far is limited to one season with a Scott rod. Very light ( 2.1 grams for a 20 and 1.2g for a 16) which is similar or lighter than the torzite guides. Price is better as well. The titanium wire sits in a deep groove so any over run at the collector is still in contact with ceramic. 

The Lemke LC10 seat is very nice. A bit narrower and lighter than the REC RSLS all aluminum seat (which I bought first but plan to return) with a smaller inset collar . The machining is excellent and the tolerances tighter (on the collar at least) than the REC. They are not easy to find right now, however. I got this one from Ron Weber at Southwest Custom Rods. It was about $35 shipped. He substituted a trim ring for an end cap. A second locking nut would have been nice but I didn't think to ask when ordering and I think it would have been a tight fit for the reel foot. This one has a plastic pressure/friction washer and screws down really tight so I suspect it will be fine. 

The handle is from SL. Normally I'd turn my own but I had wanted to try their shape. It has a bulge further up the grip (a lot like Scott's wells) then a pronounced fall away. I'm liking it so far (I cast mostly with a V grip) although it is way too soon to reach any final conclusions.


----------



## Snakesurf

Thats a great price on the Lemke. FYI: Seaguide has a solid Titanium fly reel seat, but it is pricy. I like the look of the Lemke. I only buy reel seats based on the weight and quality. You have to be careful when getting a titanium seat because they may also have nickel. Nickel is heavy and will add weight. So what you thought was going to be light, turned out to weigh twice as much. It has happened to me. I think the second lock ring is overrated because I can't count the times I have had to tighten both rings while fishing anyway. Maybe you will guinea pig the Ti reel seat for us and let me know how it is. I will most likely get it on my next 5wt+ build. Review the rod and let us know how its working. You may want to try different lines. 








SEAGUIDE Titanium Fly Reel Seat Model TiFS


New Titanium Fly Reel Seats All-titanium material Perfect for saltwater fly rods Precision machined hardware Double locking nut perforated hood and nut to reduce weight All-metal style and round wood insert style available WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including LEAD, which...




rodbuilderswarehouse.com


----------



## numbskull

Snakesurf said:


> Thats a great price on the Lemke. FYI: Seaguide has a solid Titanium fly reel seat, but it is pricy. I like the look of the Lemke. I only buy reel seats based on the weight and quality. You have to be careful when getting a titanium seat because they may also have nickel. Nickel is heavy and will add weight. So what you thought was going to be light, turned out to weigh twice as much. It has happened to me. I think the second lock ring is overrated because I can't count the times I have had to tighten both rings while fishing anyway. Maybe you will guinea pig the Ti reel seat for us and let me know how it is. I will most likely get it on my next 5wt+ build. Review the rod and let us know how its working. You may want to try different lines.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> SEAGUIDE Titanium Fly Reel Seat Model TiFS
> 
> 
> New Titanium Fly Reel Seats All-titanium material Perfect for saltwater fly rods Precision machined hardware Double locking nut perforated hood and nut to reduce weight All-metal style and round wood insert style available WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including LEAD, which...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> rodbuilderswarehouse.com


Titanium is heavier than aluminum (by quite a bit) but stronger. The strength to weight ratio of the two I think is pretty close (as is magnesium). If you need the strength of steel but weight of aluminum the titanium is the usual choice. If weight is the primary concern and thickness not a major issue then aluminum is much cheaper and easier to work. Other than corrosion resistance I doubt titanium offers much advantage over aluminum for something like a fly reel seat.

I put the rod through a long test casting trial yesterday using a SA MED 5wt line. Very, very impressive at all saltwater ranges from my perspective. My first impression was 'wow this is a stiff rod'. I was skeptical but once I adapted to it it excelled and by the end of the session I was loving it. 

I suspect I should have listened to you about the Recoil single foot snakes, however. I was casting on a frozen pound but as the session went on I began to notice a lot of friction while hauling, almost like the line was dirty although there was no dirt anywhere.
I'm suspicious the line lost lubrication while casting. Whether related to dragging it back over snow and ice, or related to some effect from the thin wire of the guides (wiping or burnishing?), time will tell. The casting performance did not suffer noticeably (although my max distance casts are too inconsistent to tell for sure) but the increased resistance while hauling was unpleasant.

Edit: So I cast again today but the weather is warmer and the ice was wet. I noticed way less friction with the wet line. That is good for the way I fish but I can see were such guides may be an issue when the line is in the sun on a boat deck and has dried out before sight casting to a fish.


----------



## fjmaverick

I need to get something for finishing guides for fitment. My dad uses this at his bench. Anyone have something similar or better?








3 in. Bench Grinder with Flex Shaft


Amazing deals on this 3In Bench Grinder With Flex Shaft at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.




harborfreight.com


----------



## Smackdaddy53

What tip top are you guys using on these fly rods with ReCoil snakes? I want to use black nickel CeRecoil strippers, black nickel ReCoil snakes and a black tip and no one can tell me what size ring is on the ReCoil tip tops that come in three ring sizes. 
I really wanted to use Snake Brand running guides but they don’t come in a black version that is rated for saltwater use.


----------



## Smackdaddy53

fjmaverick said:


> I need to get something for finishing guides for fitment. My dad uses this at his bench. Anyone have something similar or better?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 3 in. Bench Grinder with Flex Shaft
> 
> 
> Amazing deals on this 3In Bench Grinder With Flex Shaft at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> harborfreight.com


I use a Dremel.


----------



## GG34

Smackdaddy53 said:


> What tip top are you guys using on these fly rods with ReCoil snakes? I want to use black nickel CeRecoil strippers, black nickel ReCoil snakes and a black tip and no one can tell me what size ring is on the ReCoil tip tops that come in three ring sizes.
> I really wanted to use Snake Brand running guides but they don’t come in a black version that is rated for saltwater use.


I use the REC tip top. Not sure if they make it in black. I've built all mine with titanium.


----------



## Capra

RECOIL DATA SPECIFICATIONS DOUBLE FOOT GUIDESSKUSizeWire Guage (Inches)Loop Dia. I.D. (Inches)Loop Dia. O.D. (Inches)Height from CL of Loop off Blank (Inches)Height from Top of Loop off Blank (Inches)Pitch (Inches)
Start of Loop
to Finish of LoopFoot to Foot
Overall Length (Inches)Foot Swage Length
(Inches)Foot PreparationRSN1/00.0180.190N/AN/AN/A0.330.930.15SwageRSN10.0200.210N/AN/AN/A0.330.930.15SwageRSN20.0200.230N/AN/AN/A0.380.980.15SwageRSN30.0220.250N/AN/AN/A0.380.980.15SwageRSN40.0240.270N/AN/AN/A0.381.080.15SwageRSN50.0260.290N/AN/AN/A0.501.200.15SwageRSN60.0280.310N/AN/AN/A0.501.200.15SwageRSNX10.0240.210N/AN/AN/A0.330.930.15Swage"X" Suffix Designates 0.004" Larger Wire DiameterRSNX20.0240.230N/AN/AN/A0.380.980.15SwageRSNX30.0260.250N/AN/AN/A0.380.980.15SwageRSNX40.0280.270N/AN/AN/A0.381.080.15SwageRSNX50.0300.290N/AN/AN/A0.501.200.15SwageRSNX60.0320.310N/AN/AN/A0.501.200.15SwageRSG60.0300.1800.240.170.29N/A0.600.15SwageRSG70.0350.2200.290.210.35N/A0.660.20Swage"X" Prefix Designates a Cupped, Swaged FootRSG80.0400.2800.360.280.450.310.790.22SwageRSG100.0450.3200.410.350.550.350.910.22SwageRSG120.0450.3900.480.390.630.391.030.26SwageRSG160.0550.4700.580.540.830.471.260.32SwageRSG200.0600.6300.750.651.020.711.650.35SwageRSG250.0600.8300.950.791.260.872.030.44SwageSINGLE FOOT GUIDESSKUSizeWire Guage (Inches)Loop Dia. I.D. (Inches)Loop Dia. O.D. (Inches)Height from CL of Loop off Blank (Inches)Height from Top of Loop off Blank (Inches)Pitch (Inches)
Start of Loop
to Finish of LoopOverall Length (Inches)Leg Length (Inches)Foot PreparationRSF10.0200.1870.230.090.24N/AN/A0.25SwageRSF20.0200.2350.280.120.29N/AN/A0.25SwageRSF30.0220.2500.290.130.31N/AN/A0.25SwageRSF40.0240.2600.310.130.32N/AN/A0.30SwageRSF50.0260.2800.330.140.35N/AN/A0.30SwageRSF60.0280.3120.370.160.38N/AN/A0.30SwageRSFX10.0240.1870.240.090.24N/AN/A0.25Swage or Grind"X" Suffix Designates 0.004" Larger Wire DiameterRSFX20.0240.2350.280.120.29N/AN/A0.25Swage or GrindRSFX30.0260.2500.300.130.31N/AN/A0.25SwageRSFX40.0280.2600.320.130.32N/AN/A0.30SwageRSFX50.0300.2800.340.140.35N/AN/A0.30SwageRSFX60.0320.3120.380.160.38N/AN/A0.30SwageRSFX ICE GUIDESRSFXI20.0240.2350.280.120.29N/AN/A0.25SwageRSFXI30.0260.2500.300.130.31N/AN/A0.25SwageRSFXI50.0300.2800.340.140.35N/AN/A0.30SwageRSFX HYBRID GUIDESSKUSizeWire Guage (Inches)Loop Dia. I.D. (Inches)Loop Dia. O.D. (Inches)Height from CL of Loop off Blank (Inches)Height from Top of Loop off Blank (Inches)Pitch (Inches)
Start of Loop
to Finish of LoopOverall Length (Inches)Leg Length (Inches)Foot PreparationMaximum Width of Swage and Grind Foot
(Inches)RSFX1H0.0240.1870.240.090.24N/AN/A0.25Swage and Light Grind0.057RSFX2H0.0240.2350.280.120.29N/AN/A0.25Swage and Light Grind0.057RSFX3H0.0260.2500.300.130.31N/AN/A0.25Swage and Light Grind0.062RSFX4H0.0280.2600.320.130.32N/AN/A0.30Swage and Light Grind0.068RSFX5H0.0300.2800.340.140.35N/AN/A0.30Swage and Light Grind0.072RSFX6H0.0320.3120.380.160.38N/AN/A0.30Swage and Light Grind0.078SKUSizeWire Guage (Inches)Loop Dia. I.D. (Inches)Loop Dia. O.D. (Inches)Height from CL of Loop off Blank (Inches)Height from Top of Loop off Blank (Inches)Pitch (Inches)
Start of Loop
to Finish of LoopOverall Length (Inches)Leg Length (Inches)Foot PreparationRSPG60.0220.1580.200.180.28N/AN/A0.32SwageRSPG70.0260.1870.240.190.31N/AN/A0.35SwageRSPG8L0.0300.2100.270.280.42N/AN/A0.38SwageRSPG80.0300.2100.270.380.51N/AN/A0.38SwageRSPG100.0370.2800.350.500.68N/AN/A0.42SwageRSPG120.0370.3430.420.630.83N/AN/A0.50SwageRSPG160.0450.4130.500.751.00N/AN/A0.60GrindRSPG200.0550.5480.660.881.19N/AN/A0.70GrindRSPG250.0600.7240.841.001.42N/AN/A0.80GrindRSPG300.0600.9051.031.251.76N/AN/A0.90GrindRSPG400.0701.1801.321.502.16N/AN/A1.12GrindRSPG ICE GUIDESRSPGI80.0300.2100.270.380.51N/AN/A0.38SwageRSPGI100.0370.2800.350.500.68N/AN/A0.42SwageRSPGI120.0370.3430.420.630.83N/AN/A0.50SwageRSPGI160.0450.4130.500.751.00N/AN/A0.60GrindRSPG MICRO GUIDESRSPGM4.00.0200.0740.110.110.17N/AN/A0.21SwageRSPGM4.50.0200.0900.130.140.20N/AN/A0.21SwageRSPGM5.00.0240.1120.160.150.23N/AN/A0.21SwageTIP TOPSSKUSizeWire Guage (Inches)Wire Loop Inside Diameter (Inches)Stainless Steel
Tube Diameter
(Inches)Stainless Steel
Tube Length
(Inches)Rod Blank
Tip Diameter
(Inches)Stainless Steel Tube
Double Wrap LoopRSCT3.50.0300.1560.1030.630.055RSCT4.00.0300.1560.1100.630.062RSCT4.50.0300.1560.1100.630.070RSCT4.5 8L0.0300.2100.1100.630.070RSCT5.00.0300.1560.1170.630.078RSCT5.50.0300.1560.1250.630.086RSCT5.5 8L0.0300.2100.1250.630.086RSCT6.00.0300.1560.1250.630.094RSCT6.50.0350.1560.1320.730.102RSCT7.00.0350.1560.1400.730.110RTTUL3.5 S0.0300.2100.1030.630.055Stainless Steel Tube
Single Wrap LoopRTTUL3.5 L0.0300.2850.1030.630.055RTTUL3.5 XL0.0300.3200.1030.630.055RTTUL4.0 S0.0300.2100.1100.630.062RTTUL4.0 L0.0300.2850.1100.630.062RTTUL4.0 XL0.0300.3200.1100.630.062RTTUL4.5 S0.0300.2100.1100.630.070RTTUL4.5 L0.0300.2850.1100.630.070RTTUL4.5 XL0.0300.3200.1100.630.070RTTUL5.0 S0.0300.2100.1170.630.078RTTUL5.0 L0.0300.2850.1170.630.078RTTUL5.0 XL0.0300.3200.1170.630.078RTTUL5.5 S0.0300.2100.1250.630.086RTTUL5.5 L0.0300.2850.1250.630.086RTTUL5.5 XL0.0300.3200.1250.630.086RTTUL6.0 S0.0300.2100.1250.630.094RTTUL6.0 L0.0300.2850.1250.630.094RTTUL6.0 XL0.0300.3200.1250.630.094


----------



## Snakesurf

Smackdaddy53 said:


> What tip top are you guys using on these fly rods with ReCoil snakes? I want to use black nickel CeRecoil strippers, black nickel ReCoil snakes and a black tip and no one can tell me what size ring is on the ReCoil tip tops that come in three ring sizes.
> I really wanted to use Snake Brand running guides but they don’t come in a black version that is rated for saltwater use.


I use a large loop or about 7.2 mm with 6,7 or 8 wt. A XL (8+ mm) would not hurt on a 8 wt but the L is big enough for me. I don't like the way the Recoil tip tops look, so I use these large loops now that are ti plated SS and have a round ring (on left). I have a bunch of these but I am not sure who makes them (long story). All 3 of these wire looped tip tops measure on the ID left to right at 7.6mm maker unknown, 7.2mm REC Large and 7.9mm G Loomis NRX (not sure who makes it but the snake guides are black REC) and are all 8wts. The ceramic ring tip top on the far left is a Fuji Arowana 7mm (T2KGST) measured from the OD of the ring. They all cast good and the oldest one that has caught the most fish is the REC tip topped one. I also painted the tube gold and put a thin coat of epoxy over it. I think the stamped barrel that holds the wire loop looks a little strange and that is why G Loomis doesn’t use them (but they use the REC on the runners and the strippers). 
The Snake brand guides use a thicker wire and are plated.


----------



## Smackdaddy53

Snakesurf said:


> I use a large loop or about 7.2 mm with 6,7 or 8 wt. A XL (8+ mm) would not hurt on a 8 wt but the L is big enough for me. I don't like the way the Recoil tip tops look, so I use these large loops now that are ti plated SS and have a round ring (on left). I have a bunch of these but I am not sure who makes them (long story). All 3 of these wire looped tip tops measure on the ID left to right at 7.6mm maker unknown, 7.2mm REC Large and 7.9mm G Loomis NRX (not sure who makes it but the snake guides are black REC) and are all 8wts. The ceramic ring tip top on the far left is a Fuji Arowana 7mm (T2KGST) measured from the OD of the ring. They all cast good and the oldest one that has caught the most fish is the REC tip topped one. I also painted the tube gold and put a thin coat of epoxy over it. I think the stamped barrel that holds the wire loop looks a little strange and that is why G Loomis doesn’t use them (but they use the REC on the runners and the strippers).
> The Snake brand guides use a thicker wire and are plated.
> View attachment 172094


Thanks, I could not find an actual measurement for those rings, they just had standard, large and extra large with no corresponding number to go by.


----------



## WC53

Snakesurf said:


> Here is a Fly Rod I just finished made off a NFC F890-4 (GammaBeta) 9' 8wt 4 piece fast blank. Seaguide Ti framed strippers (16 and 10 mm) with silicon nitride RS rings and REC double foot snakes (5 mm and the rest 4 mm). An Alps HERA7WL2 reel seat. I shaped the cork. I am using a Lamson Speedster reel with SA Grand Slam line.
> View attachment 163457
> View attachment 163459
> View attachment 163460
> View attachment 163461
> View attachment 163462


Nice looking stick. I think I am going to try that reel seat on my next build. Now some cork..


----------



## Bill Payne

Somebody just gave me a box of fly tying and rod building stuff. Some pretty old, some pretty new. These things were included. There's a bunch of them in different sizes in black and gold. Are they for building rods? Pencil for scale:


----------



## dtaylo1066

What do you think of the MHX Native blanks vs. Batson Eternity 2? I am thinking of building a 7 weight rod in the 9 to 10 foot range. I have an Eternity 2 6-wt and it's a good stick. I am also looking at North Fork Compsites LMX and Gama Beta also. Hmmm. Decisions, decisions. Any recommendations out there?


----------



## Tailer

Just finished an Epic 686 for the Tamiami Trail:










REC CeRecoil Strippers, REC Recoil Single Foots, REC Recoil Tip Top, PacBay A7 Seat


----------



## Raulie Hurtado

It’s one of those things I’m scared to try but I know if I do it once I would be hooked!


----------



## ccfly.ca

New member here, just sharing my latest epic build!


----------



## ccfly.ca

ccfly.ca said:


> New member here, just sharing my latest epic build!


----------



## Surffshr

I’d like to know y’alls thoughts on the 686. For whatever reason I’ve been wanting to try one.



Tailer said:


> Just finished an Epic 686 for the Tamiami Trail:
> 
> View attachment 189850
> 
> 
> REC CeRecoil Strippers, REC Recoil Single Foots, REC Recoil Tip Top, PacBay A7 Seat





ccfly.ca said:


> View attachment 190840
> 
> View attachment 190839
> 
> View attachment 190838


----------



## Tailer

Surffshr said:


> I’d like to know y’alls thoughts on the 686. For whatever reason I’ve been wanting to try one.


This is my second one. I built the first one a few years ago after fishing a friend's 686 for smallmouth bass and enjoying it. I sold the first one because I found it frustrating to adjust my cast when I fished it, but I have really missed owning a rod that can comfortably cast a large-ish topwater for snook and small tarpon while still being easy to cast all day and fun to fight small-ish backwater fish. For me, it's the perfect Tamiami Trail / deep-backcountry-winter-snook-from-a-canoe-rod. If I'm going to be fishing in the wind it stays home.


----------



## mick

Any intel on RODgeeks fly blanks? I've been building rods for years and love their X-Comp and C2 inshore blanks as well as their surf blanks. Full disclosure, I KNOW NOTHING ABOUT FLY FISHING BUT I WANT TO BULD A FLY ROD! I've taken one casting lesson (highly recommend Joe and the Seven Mile Fly Shop) and bought a cheap 5 wt. combo to practice with at home. The rod will be used in the waterway, creeks and rivers in southern NC for reds and trout and we take a yearly trip to Marathon in December so I'm thinking an 8 or 9 wt?????


----------



## Bill Payne

I bought a beat up bamboo rod from an estate sale. I stripped it and refinished it and I’m in the process of wrapping the guides. I have them spaced and taped on but for the life of me, I can’t get the thread started. I get two wraps on and then cross over and lock the initial wraps, but the blank is so smooth it just spins under the thread.

Am I not applying enough tension? Or too much?


----------



## Oldsenilegoat

Probably too little tension. If you pack the overwraps down tight it should tie it in. Try practicing on a blank piece and you will get the hang of it pretty quickly.


----------



## Bill Payne

Oldsenilegoat said:


> Probably too little tension. If you pack the overwraps down tight it should tie it in. Try practicing on a blank piece and you will get the hang of it pretty quickly.


Thanks. I am getting better as I go along. Only two more to go!


----------



## fishnpreacher

I refinished and restored a bamboo rod that originally had intermediate wraps about every 4 inches. I thought about leaving them off, but there were "ghost marks" or light spots on the rod where the originals were. I was forever wrapping on that rod. Intermediates will spin with too little or too much pressure, you'll learn in a hurry.


----------



## Oldsenilegoat

Bill Payne said:


> Thanks. I am getting better as I go along. Only two more to go!


I typically have my thumb on the first couple of overwraps until they take, then away to the races. It might help.


----------



## Bill Payne

Oldsenilegoat said:


> I typically have my thumb on the first couple of overwraps until they take, then away to the races. It might help.


Okay thanks I’ll try that,


----------



## Bill Payne

fishnpreacher said:


> I refinished and restored a bamboo rod that originally had intermediate wraps about every 4 inches. I thought about leaving them off, but there were "ghost marks" or light spots on the rod where the originals were. I was forever wrapping on that rod. Intermediates will spin with too little or too much pressure, you'll learn in a hurry.


I’m learning, got one more done yesterday


----------



## permitchaser

I thought this thread may be of help 
One of my guides on my fly rod came lose on one end, the foot of the guide came out
Can I widen the hole it came out of and super glue or UV it back


----------



## mick

permitchaser said:


> I thought this thread may be of help
> One of my guides on my fly rod came lose on one end, the foot of the guide came out
> Can I widen the hole it came out of and super glue or UV it back


you can give it a shot but i doubt it will work


----------



## permitchaser

mick said:


> you can give it a shot but i doubt it will work


Thanks yea it didn’t work. I’m taking it to Fish Hawk I think they have a rod repair person


----------



## mick

Snakesurf said:


> Here is a Fly Rod I just finished made off a NFC F890-4 (GammaBeta) 9' 8wt 4 piece fast blank. Seaguide Ti framed strippers (16 and 10 mm) with silicon nitride RS rings and REC double foot snakes (5 mm and the rest 4 mm). An Alps HERA7WL2 reel seat. I shaped the cork. I am using a Lamson Speedster reel with SA Grand Slam line.
> View attachment 163457
> View attachment 163459
> View attachment 163460
> View attachment 163461
> View attachment 163462


Did you epoxy the insert to the reel seat before you epoxied the seat to the blank?


----------



## WC53

Dumb question inbound,

With the recoil black guides, do you still file the feet similar to a stainless snake guide? Or you don’t want to cut the coating.

in other news just fit my first carbon grip, good lord that was easy reaming ..lol… so I am certain it wil, rotate  hopefully I don’t hate it.


----------



## Snakesurf

I don't file any guide feet unless they actually need it. I don't think I have ever filed REC guide feet. Snake Brand I had to so stopped using them. Snake Brand guides are also coated or plated whereas REC guides are actually a Ti Ni Cr alloy that will not corrode. You are not going to remove a corrosion resistant plating but may remove some color if you have to grind the feet down on the REC guides.


----------



## mick

Getting ready to start a NFC LMX-FAF9010-4 and need advice on the guides. I'm thinking SEAGUIDE double foot strippers size 16 and 10 and Recoil snakes size 6, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5.


----------



## Oncorhynchus

mick said:


> Getting ready to start a NFC LMX-FAF9010-4 and need advice on the guides. I'm thinking SEAGUIDE double foot strippers size 16 and 10 and Recoil snakes size 6, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5.


Titanium SeaGuide strippers? Or, stainless? Since Recoil are titanium I would go with the titanium stripper guides as well. As far as the size for the runners straight 5s will give you a straighter line path, but if you want to use a 6 there it's your choice. If I remember I used sizes 20 and 12 Recoil double foot strippers on my 10wt. salt water build. 16/12 will likely also work well depending on the reel size.


----------



## mick

Oncorhynchus said:


> Titanium SeaGuide strippers? Or, stainless? Since Recoil are titanium I would go with the titanium stripper guides as well. As far as the size for the runners straight 5s will give you a straighter line path, but if you want to use a 6 there it's your choice. If I remember I used sizes 20 and 12 Recoil double foot strippers on my 10wt. salt water build. 16/12 will likely also work well depending on the reel size.


I wanted to use Fuji guides for the strippers and REC black pearl snake guides but I cannot find any black Fuji guides. I am open to all suggestions!!! Thanks!


----------



## Tailer

mick said:


> Getting ready to start a NFC LMX-FAF9010-4 and need advice on the guides. I'm thinking SEAGUIDE double foot strippers size 16 and 10 and Recoil snakes size 6, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5, 5.


I use #3 or #4 runners on a 9wt: the lighter your hardware at the tip of the rod the better your blank will perform. I've never had an issue with #4 REC snakes clearing a snarl. I've built two 1pc 9wts recently, one for bonefish with #3's and a standard loop tip top and one for permit with #4's and a large loop tip top, both with #20 and #16 strippers and you can tell the difference in swing weight and tip recovery if you cast them back to back.


----------



## hillcharl

How hard is it to replace a fighting butt on an older factory rod? It's worn out and I never liked the shape of it anyway.


----------



## Oncorhynchus

hillcharl said:


> How hard is it to replace a fighting butt on an older factory rod? It's worn out and I never liked the shape of it anyway.


Not as hard as the grip or reel seat. Most rod builders can do that.


----------



## hillcharl

Oncorhynchus said:


> Not as hard as the grip or reel seat. Most rod builders can do that.


Thanks! I was planning on doing it myself.


----------



## mick

hillcharl said:


> How hard is it to replace a fighting butt on an older factory rod? It's worn out and I never liked the shape of it anyway.


It depends on what it’s made of really, if it’s just cork removing it should be easy. Getting a new one on might be the challenge.


----------



## Smackdaddy53

hillcharl said:


> How hard is it to replace a fighting butt on an older factory rod? It's worn out and I never liked the shape of it anyway.


Get some 1/8” wide masking tape and you can drill out a new fighting butt, use the tape to build up a perfect diameter arbor, slide on your new winding check and epoxy the new butt on.


----------



## hillcharl

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Get some 1/8” wide masking tape and you can drill out a new fighting butt, use the tape to build up a perfect diameter arbor, slide on your new winding check and epoxy the new butt on.


Thank you for the advise. I'm new to this, as this will be my first time doing any work on a rod. So I'm going to do some research over the weekend because I'm not quite following what you are saying about the tape and the arbor.


----------



## Smackdaddy53

hillcharl said:


> Thank you for the advise. I'm new to this, as this will be my first time doing any work on a rod. So I'm going to do some research over the weekend because I'm not quite following what you are saying about the tape and the arbor.


The tape is the arbor. You need to do a bunch of research on rod building to get the basics before you start trying to repair a rod. MudHole has a ton of resources.


----------



## John Stark

BayStYat said:


> anything rod building related


How do you clean up a faded Nrx gloom rod. The sun has killed it? Can I sand and put an epoxy on top?


----------



## hillcharl

Smackdaddy53 said:


> The tape is the arbor. You need to do a bunch of research on rod building to get the basics before you start trying to repair a rod. MudHole has a ton of resources.


Did a good bit of research over the weekend and learned a lot!


----------



## taylorisland

mick said:


> I wanted to use Fuji guides for the strippers and REC black pearl snake guides but I cannot find any black Fuji guides. I am open to all suggestions!!! Thanks!


Fuji t2 black titanium guides are probably my favorite strippers but they’re expensive. I love Them because they’re not jet black but match the color of the blank and black Pearl recoils.


----------



## Snakesurf

mick said:


> I wanted to use Fuji guides for the strippers and REC black pearl snake guides but I cannot find any black Fuji guides. I am open to all suggestions!!! Thanks!


Get Bit has them Fuji KW in Black Titanium with a SIC ring. You also may want to look at the REC Cerecoil guides in black. I would use a 20 and a 12 for strippers because of their slightly smaller diameter. 








Fuji KW Double Foot Guides







getbitoutdoors.com












CERECOIL Double Foot Rod Guides In Black Pearl PVD Finish.


CERECOIL Double Foot Rod Guides In Black Pearl PVD Finish Commonly used as stripping or casting guides on freshwater and saltwater rods. (Part# CSGB) Standard lead time 14 days



reelseats.com


----------



## WC53

For 8/9 weights anyone run 2’s out to the tip vs 3’s


----------



## Snakesurf

You could, a lot of OEM rod's use 1s on the tip section.


----------



## Snakesurf

Just finished this lite offshore build. It has REC Cerecoil guides.The blank is a Batson Rainshadow Special Edition Green finish E-Glass RCLB79ML 7’9” X-Fast rated for 20 to 40 lbs line and 2-6 oz lures. Grips and reel seat American Tackle rear grip G2 16” cut down to 14.75” with a rubber butt piece, foregrip is EDPM 12” X 1.125” and the reel seat is an Alps CAH18LX-WTS-B Black Reel Seat Size 18 that is set in the uplocking position. The guides are REC Cerecoil pearl black NiTiCr frames with zirconium inserts; stripper CSGB16, CSPGB8 and CSPGB7s to the tip, 9 total with a Fuji KG Black Ti SIC ring 8 tip top. The guides are set in a Forhan revolver style spiral wrap.


----------



## Sr SQ

Beautiful thread work Snake 
I have had great luck with the Batson blanks.


----------



## Oncorhynchus

Snakesurf said:


> Just finished this lite offshore build. It has REC Cerecoil guides.The blank is a Batson Rainshadow Special Edition Green finish E-Glass RCLB79ML 7’9” X-Fast rated for 20 to 40 lbs line and 2-6 oz lures. Grips and reel seat American Tackle rear grip G2 16” cut down to 14.75” with a rubber butt piece, foregrip is EDPM 12” X 1.125” and the reel seat is an Alps CAH18LX-WTS-B Black Reel Seat Size 18 that is set in the uplocking position. The guides are REC Cerecoil pearl black NiTiCr frames with zirconium inserts; stripper CSGB16, CSPGB8 and CSPGB7s to the tip, 9 total with a Fuji KG Black Ti SIC ring 8 tip top. The guides are set in a Forhan revolver style spiral wrap.
> View attachment 204248


Oh, just noticed this. Looks like your guides are crooked...


----------



## Janos More

Drooling... Very impressive!


----------



## WC53

Disregard, I just found an older thread that speaks to this: Since it’s all things rod building… what non fly blanks do folks like for sight casting small baits to reds in the shallows?

In fly news. Been playing with an NFC Iconoglass 4wt. Seems like it will be a great small stream rod. Will test it out in 2 wweks.


----------



## fjmaverick

I've been putting off building this Epic 890C mostly because I didn't like the reel seat it came with. Can someone give me some reel seat suggestions?


----------



## Tailer

fjmaverick said:


> I've been putting off building this Epic 890C mostly because I didn't like the reel seat it came with. Can someone give me some reel seat suggestions?


I think the REC RSLS is about as good as it gets if you don't mind the price. I've been using some of the Sea Guide seats (I get them at rodbuilderswarehouse.com) and have been happy with them for the price. The rod in the center has a frost black AFS-16 seat and the one on the right has a frost gun smoke PFS-20 seat:


----------



## Snakesurf

fjmaverick said:


> I've been putting off building this Epic 890C mostly because I didn't like the reel seat it came with. Can someone give me some reel seat suggestions?


I like the Alps HERA7WL2. Use it on all my 8-10 wt builds. Its light and I like the way it looks and secures the reel. Comes in this Titanium color and Black.


----------



## TF21

I am a fan of the REC reel seats. I like the simplistic design and if you want to go all out, the RFTS is nice because you don't have to line up the slide band and hood. They are always perfectly aligned.


----------



## numbskull

Lemke seats are worth a look.
A bit more refined than the REC stuff I’ve handled.


----------



## RaspberryPatch

For larger blanks look to Meiser RBM. I use they on Spey Rods.

https://raspberryfisher.files.wordpress.com/2022/07/sgs-handle-lower-2.jpg


----------



## Smackdaddy53

Snakesurf said:


> I like the Alps HERA7WL2. Use it on all my 8-10 wt builds. Its light and I like the way it looks and secures the reel. Comes in this Titanium color and Black.
> View attachment 213018


I built a 10 and 12 with these seats and they don’t seem to secure my Tibor reels well. Are there issues with other reels too?


----------



## Earle Waters

BayStYat said:


> anything rod building related


Early on in my quest for saltwater fly fishing I build my own stopped when I broke a few ad there were no warranties for the building time and I rather at the time been fishing at that time than building rods🥱for the past 40 plus years I prefer to get rods that have the no hassle rod warranty🤗😎🇺🇸


----------



## WC53

Anyone build with single foot ceramics? Verbotten? Looking at a 7 wt between size 7 ceramic Ti or size 2 recoil snakes. Thanks


----------



## Snakesurf

A month later here is a response; Yes I do frequently. I have found you need more singlefoot ceramic guides than you would doublefoot snakes in order for it to cast as well with doublefoot snakes. I would not put single foot snake guides on a rod because they do not work as well as ceramic or DF snakes. The single foot ceramic guides, will however add some weight to the tip section, although very little. On a 7wt I would most likely do Torzite KW 16, KW 10 strippers and L Frame (You may need to go to Seaguide for Ti Frame) 3-7 mm and 7-6 mm running guides (12 total) and a Torzite Arowana 6mm Tip Top. With DF snakes you could go with the same stripper set up then Recoil RSNX DF snake size 4 then 2s on the tip section (10 guides total). You may also want to consider the Recoil Cerecoil guides for the strippers in same size.


----------



## birdyshooter

Anyone use a basic grip/reel seat kit? Looking to make my building as simple as possible. Batson HK-4.






R4005 Batson Rod Building Handle Kits


Batson Rod Building Handle Kits



www.anglersworkshop.com


----------



## WC53

Snakesurf said:


> A month later here is a response; Yes I do frequently. I have found you need more singlefoot ceramic guides than you would doublefoot snakes in order for it to cast as well with doublefoot snakes. I would not put single foot snake guides on a rod because they do not work as well as ceramic or DF snakes. The single foot ceramic guides, will however add some weight to the tip section, although very little. On a 7wt I would most likely do Torzite KW 16, KW 10 strippers and L Frame (You may need to go to Seaguide for Ti Frame) 3-7 mm and 7-6 mm running guides (12 total) and a Torzite Arowana 6mm Tip Top. With DF snakes you could go with the same stripper set up then Recoil RSNX DF snake size 4 then 2s on the tip section (10 guides total). You may also want to consider the Recoil Cerecoil guides for the strippers in same size.


Well late, but that is almost exactly what I did. Seaguide Ti, but I added a #7 double foot then 7’s to the tip section and KT 6’s on the tip. I liked the longer foot of the seaguide Ti in 7’s vs the Fuji KT 7’s. Do I like it better? I don’t know. Seems to shoot a little better. I almost put #2 DF snakes on the tip section, but with my casting didn’t think it would make much difference.

@birdyshooter. I use the Fuji VSS grip kits, that should be any different if all the components are good (anodized seat)


----------



## KnotHome

I need to replace a stripper guide on my Scott Tidal. Does anyone know the exact thread they use? I tried calling, but haven’t received a response to my voicemail. Mud Hole wasn’t much help when I went to their show room.


----------



## RaspberryPatch

@WC53 yes, I have used single foot guides. I actually used a Sage 9wt build with double foot, and then strip it and built with single foot. Both I and my fishing partner like the single foot better.

I do not build many rods, but I have used fuji ceramic guides on heavier weights, wired single foot on lighter rods and still use snake brand double foot. Placement is done by static loading.









Winston BL5 9wt


I have had this rod blank for a long time, a rod I got to be able to cast large flies at Pike. With my re-emergence and trying to up-my-game, this was the second rod I built since starting up. UL …




raspberryfisher.wordpress.com













Sage ESN 3100 4 – my French Leader rod


I am making this transition from “assembling” rods in accordance to the manufacturer’s recipe to configuring rods to my preference. In this, I am using some older stock par…




raspberryfisher.wordpress.com


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## RaspberryPatch

So I took a broken rod and experiment on the weight of single foot and double foot guides - including the epoxy and thread. 

How much does an affixed guide weigh?

Below is one of several measurements of different guides in the blog post. It was at this time, I experiment with the aforemention guide placement on a Sage 9wt. As stated the build with the single foot won, but was this because I place the guides based on my measurements and static loading with the fujis versus Sage's recommendation of double foot. There are a lot of opinions, so I spent some time experimenting to generate mine opinion.

In the end - IMHO - especially with a 8wt or greater - line selection to the rod and a good double haul is more important.










For salt and salmon rods, I have since moved to Nylon A thread and nocp.


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## kjnengr

Tailer said:


> I think the REC RSLS is about as good as it gets if you don't mind the price. I've been using some of the Sea Guide seats (I get them at rodbuilderswarehouse.com) and have been happy with them for the price. The rod in the center has a frost black AFS-16 seat and the one on the right has a frost gun smoke PFS-20 seat:
> 
> View attachment 213003



@Tailer, what grips/fighting butts did you go with on the two rods you built?


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## fjmaverick

I literally pulled up Recs site this morning and was trying to decide the same thing.

I'm trying to get what ever is closest to this. Rec's customer service is really good so if I can't figure it out I'll call.


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## Tailer

kjnengr said:


> @Tailer, what grips/fighting butts did you go with on the two rods you built?


The rod with the black reel seat has a ritz style grip I turned myself and a REC 1.5CF butt. The rod with the grey reel seat has a full wells grip from CTS and I don’t remember where I got that butt from. 

I settled on the RSLL with REC full wells in flor grade and the REC 1.5 CF butt for my final builds. I’ll snap a pic tomorrow if I can remember. 



fjmaverick said:


> I literally pulled up Recs site this morning and was trying to decide the same thing.
> 
> I'm trying to get what ever is closest to this. Rec's customer service is really good so if I can't figure it out I'll call.
> View attachment 225794


That looks like the Salt Fighting Butt from CTS to me.


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## Tailer

Tailer said:


> I settled on the RSLL with REC full wells in flor grade and the REC 1.5 CF butt for my final builds. I’ll snap a pic tomorrow if I can remember.


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## fjmaverick

That picture is very helpful thank you. Nice looking stick! Does hardware that comes on the fixed Rec butt just glue into the reel seat?


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## Tailer

fjmaverick said:


> That picture is very helpful thank you. Nice looking stick! Does hardware that comes on the fixed Rec butt just glue into the reel seat?


The RSLL I have doesn't use the butt hardware. I just use the plain butt epoxied directly to the blank. You can get a cork check from REC for the RSLL which is a trim ring that goes at the end of the reel seat to cover the transition to the butt, but I prefer the plain look without a check, ala Hardy.









1.5


1.5" Cork Fighting Butt Composite Cork Flat End Cork Only (Part # 1.5CF) Standard lead time is 14 days



reelseats.com


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## kjnengr

For those that have experience with both, which do you prefer - REC CeRecoil stripping guides or standard Recoil stripping guides?


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## Tailer

CeRecoils. All the advantages of the original recoils without the line noise.


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## Tailer

My latest 686 build:


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## Smackdaddy53

Tailer said:


> CeRecoils. All the advantages of the original recoils without the line noise.


This


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