# Bent shaft on Ulterra, DIY?



## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

Never have taken a trolling motor apart, but I have repaired, rebuilt, changed motor brushes, seals and bearings on hundreds of motors. I've never had to replace the brush holders. That being said, the motors I've worked on were commercial and industrial both AC and DC from 7 to 100 amp motors.

If the manufacture recommends replacing the brush holders and their not expensive I'd replace them. If I was sure there's no problem with them then I wouldn't.

Check the commutator where the brushes make contact. Not unusual that it can have "burn" marks. I used to clean the commutators with 400/600 and 1000 grit wet/dry sand paper depending on how good/bad their condition was.
Then use "brush seater stone" to seat the brushes. This minimizes the arcing as the brushes wear to "fit" the commutator (arcing wears/damages the copper bars of the commutators).

I'd also check Utube to see if your particular motor has a video showing your repair...


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## fishnpreacher (Jul 28, 2018)

Is the shaft bent outside the housing, or is there some bend in the bearing/seal area? The bearing, seal, or housing could have some damage if so.


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## Bonesonthebrain (Jan 2, 2020)

fishnpreacher said:


> Is the shaft bent outside the housing, or is there some bend in the bearing/seal area? The bearing, seal, or housing could have some damage if so.


The shaft is definitely bent right where the shear pin is, hoping there is not any other damage, but will not know until I get it apart. The motor works fine, but I an worried about whether the seal was compromised and water got in the housing. Seller had to know about this, wish they would have told me before I used the motor.


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## andy race (Jan 15, 2018)

on the ulterra's the brushes were right behind the end plate, prop end on the few i've repaired, not difficult at all, other models i've repaired had the brushes on the opposite end, in the nose cone so to speak, still not terribly difficult but a little more tricky. I would print out a diagram to make sure you get the shims/thrust washers and bearings in the correct locations, especially the seals in the end plate, can't remember exactly but i think there are 2 that have a card board type spacer between them. also use a seal puller so you don't mar or scratch the coating where the seal sits, if you use a screw driver you most likely will chip the surface.


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