# 13' Gheenoe rebuild



## NoeSmyrnaBch

Got the rear completely fiberglassed in, rear deck hatch has been cut out and I've started sanding/fairing the rear under-deck area for paint.
It'll hold a 6 gallon tank, which I don't plan to use often but nice to know it'll fit in through the top hatch.
You can see where I wanted to make the original cutout for the hatch but I completely forgot about the knee walls that I glassed in for support both for the rear deck and to tie the transom into the boat a little more so I had to trim it down 2" on each side.


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## smeth

Nice, I'd like to do something like that to my Dad's Gheenoe. What size motor will it have?


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## kensfl45

Nice project. I just read through the build thread on the other site.

Among other things, you did nice job cutting the edges of the bulkhead to match the contour of the boat floor and sides. Can you describe how to do that?


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

> Nice project.  I just read through the build thread on the other site.
> 
> Among other things, you did nice job cutting the edges of the bulkhead to match the contour of the boat floor and sides.  Can you describe how to do that?


Funny you should ask about that. That was the thing that I struggled with the most so far. I started by using a compass and tracing the contour of the hull onto cardboard as a template but found it hard to do properly and didn't get great results. I finally ended up using a contour gauge from the flooring section of home depot. It's not the perfect tool (a little too small) but was able to make it work.


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

> Nice, I'd like to do something like that to my Dad's Gheenoe. What size motor will it have?



I picked up a mid 90s 9.9 mariner for it off Craigslist. Figured that should be plenty and if not I can mood it to a 15 from what I understand. The main reason I went the mariner is for the shift mechanism being on the tiller handle. I'll be running it with a tiller extension so I didn't want to be running back to put it in or out of gear constantly.


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## cutrunner

Awesome build.
For your first fiberglass build you seem well versed, and are using appropriate materials.
The 13 is my favorite gheen


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

Thanks Cut. I knew I didn't want to do this again so I figured avoiding wood was a good first step. It's been a bit of a learning curve and I've had to back track a few times but its getting easier.


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

Been sanding and fairing the rear bilge area today between rain showers and thunder storms. I hate this part and really ready to get some paint going. Was hoping to paint tomorrow but I think I have more prep work to do unfortunately.


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

A couple of update pictures:

Rear bilge area ready for primer:


















Front and rear under-deck areas primed and painted. The rear area will get one more coat since the front has 3 now after my decision to do away with the Krylon webbing spray that I used  :-/ 









Close up of the paint in the rear bilge area:










The paint is Rustoleum Topside paint in semi-gloss white. Lays down very nice, this was hand brushed with the absolute cheapest brush I could find (15 pack for $10). It's still wet in the pictures, so that's why its so shiny. The decks and commonly seen areas will probably get done with a nicer brush, but overall I'm super happy with the paint so far. I figured while I work on refinishing the outside the Topside paint will have time to cure and harden since people seem to say it takes a while to reach full hardness.


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

Finally pulled the trigger on some slam latches. I went back and forth on this decision...trying to decide if I wanted to go cheap and live with them or just pony up and get the good ones. As you can see, I decided on the better latches after a bad experience with the cheap ones on our other boat. $60 in two latches sucks, but the plus side is I ordered them on the 4th and they were here this afternoon 
They are the Gem-Lux Stellar latches and they are WAY nicer than the the cheapies we used on the other boat. Not to mention, they met my ultimate criteria and are incredibly smooth and sit VERY flush. Extremely low profile. Super happy with these if you can't tell lol









Still working to fully flush in the hinges, they're getting there. 









Battery sitting neatly under the front. Its a tight fit through the hatch opening but it works well.









View from the inside:









Just need to finish up the hinge areas and get some paint on the decks. Think I'm going to try my hand at spraying the inside of the boat in preparation for spraying the outside. We'll see how that goes lol


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## tdg

Looking good nice latches.


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## jdpber1

That battery couldn't be any more in the bow if you tried wow. Off to a good start.


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## Shalla Wata Rider

Great job ,it's gonna be a killer skiff when you're done .How are you going to address the open honeycomb on the hatches and deck?  :-/


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

> Great job ,it's gonna be a killer skiff when you're done .How are you going to address the open honeycomb on the hatches and deck?  :-/


I've been filling it with high density filler mixture and shaping it to fit. It sucks...I can assure you I'll never use any sort of honeycomb board again. Every single opening requires tons of work. I have a few hours just in building up the filler and sanding it on the rear bulk head cutout openings. 
At least its light weight!

Stressing now about how I'm going to run fuel and bilge lines. Poor planning around the rear deck area on my part has reared its ugly head in this problem. The support walls from the transom to the rear-most bulk head for the rear deck are in the way of the lines exiting the deck where they need to. Trying to find a way to build a PVC chase tube that I can somehow install easily with the deck when it goes on. 

1 step forward...2 steps back


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## roger

> Nice project.  I just read through the build thread on the other site.
> 
> Among other things, you did nice job cutting the edges of the bulkhead to match the contour of the boat floor and sides.  Can you describe how to do that?


You can get a very good fit by doing what is called spiling. Spiling is a technique that uses a board and a spiling stick to transfer the shape of the hull onto sheet goods (plywood, composite panel, etc.). This is one of those things that is fairly easy to do but maybe not so easy to describe but I'll give it a shot.

First you need to set up a board in line with the bulkhead location. I usually use a piece of 3/4" MDF about a foot wide. You'll need to temporarily secure the board to the hull.

Once you have the board set, you can use the spiling stick to mark multiple points of the hull. A spiling stick is just a stick with a point on it. I generally use  whatever I have at hand (1/2 x 3/4 pine is good) that is long enough to reach the  points I want to mark.

To use the spiling stick, lay it against the board and push it to the point you want to transfer. Mark on the board around the spiling stick. Repeat as much as you feel you need to accurately replicate the curve of the hull on the sheet goods. When you are done, you'll have what looks like a bunch of rectangles randomly drawn on the board.

Once you have all the points marked, remove the board from it's temporary location and lay it on your sheet goods. Place the spiling stick on the marks you made previously and then mark the point on the sheet goods.

I hope this makes sense. Like I said before, it's a pretty easy technique to use but not nearly as easy to describe.


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

Got the motor started last night for the first time. Will need a good carb cleaning and all the basics but hopefully that will be it. 

Still need to find a small jack plate....


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

Made some progress this afternoon. Got my rear foam poured, finish-sanded the front deck with 220 and faired the edge finally. Came out very good actually. Picked up the parts for my bilge bump. Had to get creative with the pump tubing and where it will exit the deck and out the boat. Still trying to tie up some loose ends with that. I picked up a Johnson 1000gph bilge and auto-float switch. Takes up a lot of room in the rear hatch area but it'll be worth it if something should happen.

Ran out of both my high density and fairing fillers today so tomorrow will be work on the bilge area again I think, and some sanding of the rest of the inside of the boat. 

Poured foam









Front deck sanded









Finished Plascore edge (pretty happy about this)


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

Today has been a very good day for the Gheenoe!

I got up this morning and just went out in the garage to look at where everything stood. I got the itch and broke out the hole saw and dremel and a few minutes later had my fuel line hole cut into the rear part of the rear deck. Came out good, just need to glass in the tube itself. It'll be flush mounted with the surface of the deck and the fuel line has some free play, but not enough to let it get all sloppy back by the motor. Obviously the motor will be on a jack plate so it won't have such an "S" curve to it. Should just come out the hole and have a nice arc to the fuel fitting on the motor. Also faired the front edge of the rear deck, and put a final barrier coat of resin down on the front deck and started fairing the remaining part of the front bulk head. Couldn't complete that because I need some more fillers for the resin to finish fairing but should be done shortly. Once that is done and I give the deck one more good sand it'll be ready to paint. The rear I'm still working on. The bilge pump thru-hull fitting is giving me fits. I can't find one that I like that has enough thread for my transom (right at 1.5") and will work the way I want. Can't decide if I should go 90* down through the deck or straight fit and send it out the side of the hull. Guess at this point it doesn't really matter much (does it???)



















So, not having any more fiberglass stuff to do today, I though...eh I'll see if I can find a service manual online for my motor. After about an hour of searching I found one! Then I started reading and looked at the fuel section. Went out to the garage and pulled the carb and cleaned it out real good. Found that the needle valve was stuck, i assume thats what was causing my difficult starting. Threw in two new NGK plugs and she cranked on the first pull. I was so worried that I made a mistake by buying the motor without seeing it actually run for more than a second with starting fluid. I knew it fired and had good compression but wasn't sure what else I was in for. It does have a bad coil pack, its arcing to the bracket and causing a misfire. Looks like the coil pack itself is cracked, actually both of them are but only one is arcing out. Will be ordering replacements here in a few minutes.


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

Got new coil packs in the mail today, swapped them out and started it up. Runs super smooth now!

I also worked on the bilge fitting that goes through the deck and exits the transom. Its all cut and ready to go in, and the hole in the deck for it has been filled to make it a tight fit. Started the final thing before installing the decks which is finishing the fairing on the front and rear bulkheads that face into the inside of the boat. 

Thinking about making a test run with it soon to see how it works out and what (if anything) I should do about adding a false floor in the center. We'll see...


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## 'Nano-Skiff'

super nice. really impressed.


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## racer04

nidacore was used for decks? I don't know how many layers I should put to make it sturdy but I also only have one side glassed with one piece of 1 1/2 ounce chop glass on it.... :-?


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## racer04

I've been filling it with high density filler mixture and shaping it to fit. It sucks...I can assure you I'll never use any sort of honeycomb board again. Every single opening requires tons of work. I have a few hours just in building up the filler and sanding it on the rear bulk head cutout openings. 
At least its light weight!

I think I am going to have same problem? I cant just lay the core that's a 90 degree angle and just glass into the angle? 

sorry if I don't make sense I suck at explaining :-/


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## Shalla Wata Rider

Fly,  The way I've dealt with the edge on nida and other comb products is to band the edges with a strip of teak or mahogany . It is better if you can band first then glass over the core and banding at the same time ....or glass first then router out the comb and glue in a band. As for one matt on the deck...it must be glassed on both sides no matter what . One matt will be a little flimsy unless you add a little camber or it is well supported . Bands should be about a half inch of glassable surface  and you should hot coat first especially if you use polyester.... thin the resin a little with acetone so it will penetrate the wood when hot coating ... I hope this helps ....keep up the good work


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

Yes I filled the exposed edges of the honeycomb with resin that had high density filler mixed in. This way I could sand it to a finished edge that was somewhat rounded. Any edge that won't be seen (aka bonded to an edge somewhere) I didn't fill. 

I used 2 layers of 7oz. Chopped mat on one side and a layer of fab-mat in the other and I can't make it flex, even over the area that has the least support. 

I think you can do what you are asking though, with mating them up together. My decks have a little overhang from the bulk head so water won't drip on the switches and into my rod tubes so that wasnt an option for me.


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## racer04

Wow 7 ounce mat I'm new to fiber glassing but I've never heard of that thick I'm going to have to look around either that or I was going to make a bulk head in the middle and just cut out two faces of bulk heads worth but I'm trying to keep weight down


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## racer04

I read how you make the bulk heads but im still not sure. im making bulk head decks tomorrow if I get enough help by tomorrow night to do them. I want to know how to make it fit the exact curves and contour lines of the sides of the boat until 3/4 of an inch from the top of the deck(where the top piece will be fitted and mounted into a flush deckon top) I was going to use a card board piece to get a fairly good estimate? :-?


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

> I read how you make the bulk heads but im still not sure. im making bulk head decks tomorrow if I get enough help by tomorrow night to do them. I want to know how to make it fit the exact curves and contour lines of the sides of the boat until 3/4 of an inch from the top of the deck(where the top piece will be fitted and mounted into a flush deckon top) I was going to use a card board piece to get a fairly good estimate?  :-?


I think it was 7oz...been a while since I got it. Check out Higgs on Nova road in Holly Hill. Awesome guys and they have a decent fiberglass section.

As for the bulk heads...that was probably the most difficult part of the build to get right. I spent a lot of time trying different things to get a good fit. A compass, ticking sticks, eyballing it....nothing worked well except a contour gauge. Go to home depot and ask the person in the flooring or tile section for a contour gauge. Think it was like $10 and worth its weight in gold for me in this build. I used the contour gauge to transfer the shape to cardboard, cut it out and checked the fit, making corrections where necessary. Once I was happy with the fit I transferred the cardboard cutout shape onto my plascore and glassed it. Then I had to trim any remaining glass that overhung the plascore and seal the edges. I would also recommend sanding/fairing the bulkheads before putting them in the boat, that way you only have to do light sanding once they are in and on a harsh angle to sand.


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## racer04

I go to higgs that's where I got everything the heaviest matt they have is 1 1/2 ounces? which is what I am using, I will b e putting another piece of glass on it tonight and see what it does. also how does the contour gauge work?


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

> I go to higgs that's where I got everything the heaviest matt they have is 1 1/2 ounces? which is what I am using, I will be putting another piece of glass on it tonight and see what it does. also how does the contour gauge work?


Maybe I'm thinking of something else...I dunno where 7oz came from. I'm using the thickest chopped mat they have (2 layers) on one side of my plascore, and the fab-mat (1 layer) on the other. Its stupid strong and nice and light.

Contour gauge:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3AKAHYWJntY



Got the rear deck bonded in today, and finished up some sanding on the decks. Hopefully the front deck will be bonded in tomorrow or Tuesday.


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## racer04

I got the contour gauge you are a life saver ;D


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## racer04

You also have two bulkheads which I do not and I'm sure that helped tremendously with being structurally sound so I do not know if it is going to work. I'm going to out one more on top of the one I have now and see what it does.... Did yours flex without the fab mat on the bottom? :-?


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

Decks are bonded on finally. Gonna give it a quick test run this weekend to decide if I want /need to do a false floor in the bottom. Think I might anyway but who knows.


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## david_kohler

> Decks are bonded on finally. Gonna give it a quick test run this weekend to decide if I want /need to do a false floor in the bottom. Think I might anyway but who knows.


I knew your boat would see water first! I believe you will want a false floor. It makes it so much nicer to move around in and if you put a cooler on the floor it will sit level.


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

Yeah that's kind of what I was thinking. Plus I can make a grab bar mount too, which i think I'm going to need. Great.... More building lol. Maybe it will be ready by next summer!


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

Big setback today. I either mixed something wrong or had too much temp difference on my garage floor where I put the plastic down to glass on (garage floor is the only flat thing I have to use on such a large piece). It didn't kick and bubbled my floor paint. Think between the floor cooling and the glass kicking on top of the plastic sheet I got some moisture or something. Major bummer.

Off to order the material for my jack plate! :-/


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

Round 2 of the false floor tonight is curing on the work bench. Hope it turns out better than the last. :-/


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## racer04

praying for ya! mine ended up coming out good just needed minor fixing.


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

Started on the floor tonight. I glassed this piece up the other night but ran out of resin so I picked some up today. Hope to get the floor in tomorrow and test run it soon!


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

Got some work done today on it finally and feel like I finally made some good progress.

Got the floor installed. Turned out to be a bigger job than I had anticipated. I also cut the floor I made in half length wise. It was going to span the 2 feet in the middle of the boat but I didn't like the way it sat by the front and rear bulk heads so I cut it down to 1ft wide. Glad I did, it went in much better, looks more uniform, and didn't require as much work. Its 1/4 nidacore and its actually really strong. I was a little nervous about it but it worked out well with the schedule 40 PVC under it and then bonded to the hull along the sides.

Also got the bow eye installed. Flipped the axle on the trailer this morning, got my winch and bow-stop installed and re-installed the bunks too. Still needs some work and some smaller rims/tires for the trailer but its getting there. 

Pics from today:

Floor being bonded in:









somewhat leveled and glassed in:

















Obviously still a lot of work to do with filling fairing and sanding.


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## racer04

What did you use to make your deck level? Looks like some kind of compound you used and sanded it all flush


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

> What did you use to make your deck level? Looks like some kind of compound you used and sanded it all flush


It's a mixture of West systems high density filler and resin, with some low density mixed in to thicken it up a bit more.


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## racer04

have you found our heard of anything easier than that since then? I think they make a single compound that would cost less and be just effective. I just forgot what it was.


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

> have you found our heard of anything easier than that since then? I think they make a single compound that would cost less and be just effective. I just forgot what it was.


I'm sure there is something out there. But I doubt I could find it locally and with shipping would it be that much cheaper? Surplus unlimited on ISB has the West Systems stuff so I just stop there after work and grab what I need. Its messy, expensive, and a pain, but it works...lol


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## racer04

Haha I'll do a little more search. Also I got some stuff called duraglass it worked awesome for filling in cells and laying a filet for the bulkhead if you need anymore stuff like that


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

Well, I've found that metal working is not my cup of tea. I got my ass handed to me by trying to make a jack plate. I'm sure I could have stuck with it and finished it, but the risks were not worth the reward should it fail or not work as desired. Total waste of 2 nights and some budget money but lesson learned I guess. I'll stick with fiberglass building and leave the metal to the gurus.

Bobs mini narrow is on the way :-/


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## racer04

That's what I have, works great and has a good 6 and some change in set back! If it makes you feel better I attempted to build my own poling platform and that didn't pan out to well... Needless to say I have a new one from Ankona going I be ready in a week! 


Doesn't hurt to try! :


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## david_kohler

Man that stinks! Did you get the aluminum from the guy I told you about? I know someone who wants to build one and I wasn't sure if he had the right angle stock. I know you'll like the bob's unit.


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

> Man that stinks!  Did you get the aluminum from the guy I told you about?  I know someone who wants to build one and I wasn't sure if he had the right angle stock.  I know you'll like the bob's unit.


Yeah I did actually. He had the 3" structural angle I wanted and cut it to size. A little cheaper than buying and shipping from the place in Orlando. 

The Bob's looks nice, a little more setback than I wanted but I'm sure it'll be fine with enough weight up front or a fin plate on the motor.


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## david_kohler

> Man that stinks!  Did you get the aluminum from the guy I told you about?  I know someone who wants to build one and I wasn't sure if he had the right angle stock.  I know you'll like the bob's unit.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I did actually.  He had the 3" structural angle I wanted and cut it to size. A little cheaper than buying and shipping from the place in Orlando.
> 
> The Bob's looks nice, a little more setback than I wanted but I'm sure it'll be fine with enough weight up front or a fin plate on the motor.
Click to expand...

I have a bob's jack plate and I like it for my classic.  Had it on there for four years and can't wait to put it back on.  He's got a nice shop set up for him, I wonder what he would have charged to do the rest. I'm sure he wasn't what you were expecting. lol


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

> Man that stinks!  Did you get the aluminum from the guy I told you about?  I know someone who wants to build one and I wasn't sure if he had the right angle stock.  I know you'll like the bob's unit.
> 
> 
> 
> Yeah I did actually.  He had the 3" structural angle I wanted and cut it to size. A little cheaper than buying and shipping from the place in Orlando.
> 
> The Bob's looks nice, a little more setback than I wanted but I'm sure it'll be fine with enough weight up front or a fin plate on the motor.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> I have a bob's jack plate and I like it for my classic.  Had it on there for four years and can't wait to put it back on.  He's got a nice shop set up for him, I wonder what he would have charged to do the rest.  I'm sure he wasn't what you were expecting.  lol
Click to expand...

This is very true! lol. Very nice guy and indeed quite a nice shop. Wish my garage was half that clean and organized. I guess it needs to be for his wheel chair but still...

excited to see the bobs plate. I hate waiting for shipping lol


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

Plate is in, mounted, and got a motor bolted to it. I had to mount it up and take it for a splash. I'm nowhere near ready for paint or even finished building really, but the itch was too great...had to scratch it. 

The motor is awesome. 1 pull and go. Plenty of power and quiet. Love it

The Gheenoe itself rides good too, but I have to work on some weight distribution and setup. Even with my wife up front it rides pretty bow high and porpoises pretty bad at any kind of speed. Going to switch to storing fuel up front and look into a Stingray JR fin for the motor. I'm also going to play with the settings on the jack plate to see if I can get a little more tuck on the motor to help. 

Overall a successful test though, I got a lot of good info out of it and it didn't sink lol

Need to make a few rod holders for the sides, and come up with how I want to do the grab bar, then its sand, sand, sand, sand, paint, and fish!


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## PG350

I used to have a 13ft and ran a 2 stroke 15hp Johnson. I had to put a hydrofoil on mine to keep from porpoising. With the foil/fin it ran awesome and was the most fun boat I have owned. The fin completely fixed all problems on my boat.


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

> I used to have a 13ft and ran a 2 stroke 15hp Johnson.  I had to put a hydrofoil on mine to keep from porpoising.  With the foil/fin it ran awesome and was the most fun boat I have owned.  The fin completely fixed all problems on my boat.


That's exactly what I was hoping to hear! I can't imagine a 13 with a 15 though....the 9.9 seems more than I'll need for me and the dog or me and the wife. 

Thanks


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## manatiburon

> Plate is in, mounted, and got a motor bolted to it. I had to mount it up and take it for a splash. I'm nowhere near ready for paint or even finished building really, but the itch was too great...had to scratch it.
> 
> The motor is awesome. 1 pull and go. Plenty of power and quiet. Love it
> 
> The Gheenoe itself rides good too, but I have to work on some weight distribution and setup. Even with my wife up front it rides pretty bow high and porpoises pretty bad at any kind of speed. *Going to switch to storing fuel up front* and look into a Stingray JR fin for the motor. I'm also going to play with the settings on the jack plate to see if I can get a little more tuck on the motor to help.
> 
> Overall a successful test though, I got a lot of good info out of it and it didn't sink lol
> 
> Need to make a few rod holders for the sides, and come up with how I want to do the grab bar, then its sand, sand, sand, sand, paint, and fish!


This is what I did with mine, and I think should work with yours (although I kept the bench, you might still fit one of these with minor mods)


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

> This is what I did with mine, and I think should work with yours (although I kept the bench, you might still fit one of these with minor mods)
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I've only got a 3gal tank and I was able to fit it up front without issue. Thinking the hydrofoil is going to be my saving grace...at least I hope.
> 
> We do have the same grinder though ;D
Click to expand...


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## racer04

I would suggest a set trim tab of angels 1/8 in aluminum before I out one of those on my motor they are extremely bad for them and wear them slap out between all the washers and stabilizers. But who am I?


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## DuckNut

Post a pic of how your motor sits in running position.


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## racer04

Sorry for asking this since it's weeks after you've done it but how did you put the blacks on your transom to hold up the nida? Also are they wood?


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

> Sorry for asking this since it's weeks after you've done it but how did you put the blacks on your transom to hold up the nida? Also are they wood?


I had some small sheets of scored divinycell that I cut up and bonded to the transom with the West systems high density filler and resin. I have some of the divinycell left if you need it for your transom depending on how much you'll need.


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

Ok, back to the harsh reality of filling, sanding, and more sanding. For some strange reason, I thought smoothing the interior of the Gheenoe seemed like a great idea. (actually, it was because I was putting in a floor and couldn't match the texture...)

2 evenings with it so far and its getting there...slowly. I'm tired of sanding dust thats for sure. (pics are from the first wipe of filler)

Also started work on my small (and I mean SMALL) jump seat/grab bar mount. No pics of that yet but soon.


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## PG350

Something about that first pic just pops. Looks like a work of art.


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## manatiburon

That's looking slick! Hang in there, smooth surfaces are though but it will be all worth it once you throw that first topcoat! Excellent job [smiley=bravo.gif]


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

Not sure why today was the day, but I couldn't get the grab bar out of my head. Its been in the back of my mind....kicking around trying to figure out what I wanted to do, and if I could pull it off.

Anyway, after a failed trip to lowes and home depot yesterday trying to build it in the aisle and my head...I returned today with a new idea borrowed from the forums here.


1" Schedule 40 PVC, a box of screws, and some spray paint later, I"m on the way home. I created a jig on my workbench with some drywall screws and known straight pieces of wood.









Then cut down the PVC pipe to 7' and filled it with warm sand that I had baking in the oven (wife loved that one lol). Also used a heat gun on low setting and began to bend. First attempt failed (was using heat gun on high) but the 2nd was pretty good. Its not perfect, but as close as it can be with bending PVC in such a tight loop









Let it cool with the help of a fan for about 30 minutes









Added a 1/4" piece of pipe about 16" up, filled it with some leftover pourable foam I had, and found some tupperware bowls from Ikea that were the perfect size and shape for the feet. Cut a 1 1/4" hole in them, filled with resin mixed with high density filler and smooshed it in. Cut off the bowls, sanded the pipe and layed down some paint (its the rustoleum camo paint in flat black...the only camo thing I've ever bought lol)









The feet will get bonded to the floor, and the top of the grab bar will get wrapped with paracord most likely so hopefully the paint will stay on a while.


----------



## DuckNut

Hey Noe- the pipe bends so much easier with the print facing up ;D

Just kidding- you did a great job. You going to anchor it to a box or something?


----------



## manatiburon

Nice Job! If you are interested in making a mini console for the grab bar, you can re-cycle the middle seat if you still have it. Just an idea...


----------



## NoeSmyrnaBch

I am probably going to make a small dashboard with a cup holder,  still thinking it out.  As far as mounting,  there will most likely be a small (very small) jump seat /storage bin and I will try to anchor it to that as well as bonding into the floor. All still very much a work in progress. 

I'll have to remember to bend with the print facing up next time lol


----------



## DuckNut

You are going to have to anchor to something that is also anchored to the floor. The leverage is just too much for the leg mount.

Great job.

You and Tarpanero are going to have to get together.


----------



## NoeSmyrnaBch

> You are going to have to anchor to something that is also anchored to the floor.  The leverage is just too much for the leg mount.
> 
> Great job.
> 
> You and Tarpanero are going to have to get together.



Yeah, that kind of what I was figuring. I have some Aquaplas material left over from the transom so I think I'll build a small seat/console out of that and anchor to it since it has the ability to hold fasteners. Was hoping to keep the floor plan as clear as possible but you're right about needing another anchor point.

I've been following tarponero's build closely! Good stuff for sure. This place is great for the wealth of knowledge and ideas (such as the idea on how to bend my grab bar)


----------



## manatiburon

We should certainly plan a gheenoe day out in the bay for sure! DN is right on track in regards the extra support. You could also have a set of 90 degree tabs glassed around the base of the legs, that should reinforce the base. Also try to get it as short as you can comfortably use it; the taller it is, the more stress you will put into the bases. just my .02.


----------



## NoeSmyrnaBch

> We should certainly plan a gheenoe day out in the bay for sure! DN is right on track in regards the extra support. You could also have a set of 90 degree tabs glassed around the base of the legs, that should reinforce the base. Also try to get it as short as you can comfortably use it; the taller it is, the more stress you will put into the bases. just my .02.


I think the plan is to bond the feet in with some high density filler (the under side of the feet have a slightly recessed area where I can fill in some of the mixture), and then fillet around the feet and glass that into the floor as good as I can, then mount to the front compartment that I'll build. Right now its at 3ft in height, which seemed comfortable when standing and pretending i was driving 

I'm down for a meet once I get it painted, but I need to do some trailer work before she goes too far.


----------



## DuckNut

Go check out Paint it blacks (if I remember right) console setup. 

Just in case it is not his, the owner made a rectangle frame that was attached to the grab bar and the cooler was just set into the opening. The cooler just lifted out for ease of use and the frame provided the necessary support as the front legs are roughly 2' away from the grab bar.


----------



## NoeSmyrnaBch

> Go check out Paint it blacks (if I remember right) console setup.
> 
> Just in case it is not his, the owner made a rectangle frame that was attached to the grab bar and the cooler was just set into the opening.  The cooler just lifted out for ease of use and the frame provided the necessary support as the front legs are roughly 2' away from the grab bar.


I had thought about that, but the issue with my setup is space and my requirement for an open floor plan as much as possible. I certainly don't have 2ft to play with. I have a small seat I built quickly that was 10x10, but with the feet on the grab bar it doesn't fit in too well. I think I'm going to build some brackets to fit around the legs of the grab bar and mount to the small box seat. It will have to be enough. I'm not a huge guy so hopefully I won't put too much force on the bar.

Always open to ideas and suggestions though.


----------



## NoeSmyrnaBch

Decided to add some more bracing to the grab bar. I'll be running some additional pvc pieces down the sides of the seat base that will also mount to the grab bar and the false floor. Hopefully that will give me some strength if I end up going forward too hard. Pretty sturdy now so I think it'll be fine.

Really toying with the console idea, but putting it up at a reasonable height will block my view if I do want to sit on the back deck and drive....not sure about that yet but it can always be added later. Not a priority for now.


----------



## racer04

if you add the mini poling platform to sit on you probably could? that's what my friend has got and it works out sweet. 

also thank you for the scraps! that stuff is awesome and easy to work with


----------



## NoeSmyrnaBch

> if you add the mini poling platform to sit on you probably could? that's what my friend has got and it works out sweet.
> 
> also thank you for the scraps! that stuff is awesome and easy to work with


Yeah, kind of what I was thinking with the platform.

Glad the Divinycell worked out for you, its pretty good stuff


----------



## NoeSmyrnaBch

I couldn't resist. I put in the grab bar this morning while waiting for the A/C guy to come fix my still somewhat new A/C unit at the house...thank god for warranty.

Anyway, after the grab bar set, I had to try it out of course! Dunked her again this afternoon with the wife. MUCH better ride this time with my weight in the middle. I also adjusted the bobs mini jack plate to give me a little more tuck on the motor which really seemed to have helped. She runs flat and smooth now and I think I can bring the motor up some which is nice. I had a grin from ear to ear the whole time we were on the water today. Need to finish sanding the floor, mount my rod holders and get to painting the inside!   ;D

I also have to share this....

We stopped on an island to hang out for a bit about 3/4 of a mile from the boat ramp. There was a girl in a decent sized bay boat playing with her dogs on the island. She eventually loaded up and shoved off....only to find the motor wouldn't start. We packed up and headed over. She was trying to paddle the boat back against the wind...wasn't gonna happen. So I had her throw me a line and i tied it to the motor handle and pulled her back to the ramp. This little thing makes quite the tugboat lol


----------



## NoeSmyrnaBch

Progress has been really slow now with this ridiculous time change. I get home from work and its dark and raining 

Anyway, I did manage to roll on a final coat of resin inside the hull today so a quick light sand and its primer-time for the inside. Hopefully this weekend some time!


----------



## NoeSmyrnaBch

Well, no paint this weekend, decided to out and play around instead. Took the dog out early yesterday and then the wife later in the day.

It runs good with the little 9.9 for not having done any sort of tuning or setup...just slapped it on and ran. 

Quick video if you want to see it in action:
https://vimeo.com/79016420


----------



## PG350

I am planning on doing the same, I am going to use my boat while she is still being developed. 

This time change is stupid, I go to work in the dark and get home in the dark. 

Do you have any pics of how you mounted the grab bar?


----------



## NoeSmyrnaBch

I'm just going to tell you that using it while working on it is a very BAD idea. If you are like me, you'll end up wanting to use it more than work on it lol. 

Grab bar is bonded to the floor with high density filler and resin. I made some feet using some old tupperware containers, filled them with the filler/resin mixture and stuck the PVC in. It works good, the PVC does flex a little and it probably needs some more bracing, but in the couple of times I've used it, its been fine. I think the PVC will break before the bond to the floor does.


----------



## NoeSmyrnaBch

So I have been battling something on and off for the past 3 weeks. Not sure what, but I haven't felt so bad in a very long time, especially the past 5 days or so. Progress has been very slow because of it. I finally felt up to getting some work done today. Did a final sand on the inside and put down a coat of primer. Also fixed some little stuff here and there.


----------



## NoeSmyrnaBch

Got my first coat of paint down tonight. Certainly not ideal conditions (painting with the garage door half open under lights, with fans running to keep the bugs away).
This is lightly thinned Rustoleum Topside semigloss white rolled on and tipped. Very happy with it so far, laid down really nice. Shadows make it look kind of strange in these pictures. Hope to get the 2nd coat down tomorrow before dark if I can sneak out of work a little early.


----------



## manatiburon

Maybe a little late but...

  I will wait a few days between layers with enamel. My experience, including the gheenoe I just painted with the same type of paint, is that the longer you allow those layers to harden, the better. I have mine in between 2-3 days, with the boat exposed to the heat of the day and I can still smell the enamel...


----------



## NoeSmyrnaBch

Yeah i agree. I put the first coat down pretty light. 2nd coat is down now and it will sit for a few days. I have done under the decks already and did the same schedule and they have held up well with me dropping tools and putting things in and out of the hatches so far. 

It will need at least one more light coat i think. It's not perfect but it looks pretty good.


----------



## NoeSmyrnaBch

So I have been eyeing a 16ft stiffy hybrid push pole locally on Craigslist. Emailed the guy 2weeks ago but he would not budge on the price. Saw he dropped the price this week so I went over to get it today. When I got there his brother was there and said his brother (the seller) can't work a tape measure. Turns out it's a 21 ft pole. It has been repaired but it looks like it was done right and is in good shape. So for under $200 I have a push pole that's too large lol. 

Not sure if I should cut it down or what. Probably try it as it is and see how I like it.


----------



## racer04

looks pretty good! haven't had a moment to spare to work on my boat :-/ glad yours is coming along nicely


----------



## racer04

Also did roll and tip this? or is it sprayed? 

a 21 ft push pole is way to long for a noe imo. you can probably cut it, I cut my (fiberglass pole) and epoxied the tip back in and it has not split or messed up in all the oysters I slam it down into. there's videos I think on you tube you can watch that I saw awhile ago and was pretty informational. its not rocket science though


----------



## Rediculous

My skiff is 14', and my pole is 22'. I wish it was 2' longer. I know someone who will take it off your hands, if you wanna sell it.


----------



## NoeSmyrnaBch

> Also did roll and tip this? or is it sprayed?
> 
> a 21 ft push pole is way to long for a noe imo. you can probably cut it, I cut my (fiberglass pole) and epoxied the tip back in and it has not split or messed up in all the oysters I slam it down into. there's videos I think on you tube you can watch that I saw awhile ago and was pretty informational. its not rocket science though


Thanks. I rolled and tipped it, not sprayed. I was going to spray but by the time I got all the equipment (spray gun, filter/dryer, decent air hose, etc.) I just decided to roll/tip. I have done it before, but it didn't come out this good. The trick seems to be thinning it down a bit. 



> My skiff is 14', and my pole is 22'. I wish it was 2' longer. I know someone who will take it off your hands, if you wanna sell it.


Thats kind of why I want to try it out and see how it goes first. I may keep this for the larger 17' boat my buddy and I own and sell the aluminum pole we have for it and get something smaller. Just depends on how this works out. If I decide to sell it I'll let you know.


----------



## racer04

I guess if I poled around open areas id want a titanic size push pole also but for tight technical poling like I do its impossible in a 4-6 ft canal area been there done that with a 21 footer lol it sucks, but its personal preference and what type of fishing you do I guess. I've found 18 to be a perfect all around pole


----------



## NoeSmyrnaBch

Some pictures of the final paint job inside. 4 thinned coats total over about 8 days. Came out very good i think.  Hatch lids are now in primer, just need to paint them.

Then it's time to flip it and finish the outside and start using it!!!


----------



## Gramps

Man that looks nice Noe! You've done a great job bringer her back from the brink.


----------



## manatiburon

Bravo!  Looks better than factory!


----------



## DuckNut

Looks great. Paint came out real nice.


----------



## Shalla Wata Rider

Wow that thing looks great ! Are you doing seadeck? (sorry if I missed what your going to do for non-skid) Also liked that fishing video above you test run link on last page.


----------



## NoeSmyrnaBch

> Wow that thing looks great ! Are you doing seadeck? (sorry if I missed what your going to do for non-skid) Also liked that fishing video above you test run link on last page.


Thanks! Yes, some sort of seadeck or hydroturf stuff is in the plans. Haven't decided on a color yet, I'll wait to see what the outside color turns out like before I make that call I think. I wanted to do the teak looking seadeck, but man that stuff is expensive. Hydroturf's wood mat looks terrible, but its cheaper. I may just end up with gray  :-/

Glad you liked the video...hopefully there will be a lot to come from the gheenoe.

Ended up spraining/tearing some muscles so progress has been pretty slow lately. I need to flip it to start on the bottom. I don't think I can manage that right now but I'm dying to work on it. I'm ready to be on the water with it. Next doc appt isn't until the end of the month so I may be down for a while.  

Hatch lids are painted, rod tub covers are in, and I'm waiting on my new cordless drill setup to get here so I can finally cut a hole with a hole saw without having to charge the battery on the drill 3 times lol


----------



## NoeSmyrnaBch

Rolled it out today and got some fairing and sanding done on the outer sides. The chines were in pretty rough shape from the previous owner banging it around, and I struggled with them at first trying to get the filler in and round them out properly. Decided to take an old credit card and cut it to the shape of the chine. Made life much easier. Just need to finish sanding them and lay down a few coats of resin over it. As a side note, the sanding sponge things do not work well for this. Picked some up thinking it would give me something to hold onto and keep a somewhat flat surface but they just immediately clog up and then all they do is push dust around.  :


Some nasty gouges and weird low spots that needed to be filled.









Filled in holes from the old Gheenoe logo that was riveted on, and some chine work:


----------



## NoeSmyrnaBch

Time for an update...FINALLY..some progress.

I manged to get 2 coats of primer on the sides after finally fairing everything and being happy with it. I'm liking the Rustoleum primer so far. Put down a coat, hit it with 220 real quick and then lay down another coat. 

Also managed to get the thing flipped today finally. Have to make a few quick cosmetic repairs and round the keel by the drain plug again (been dragged flat by previous owner). Then it'll be primed and then its PAINT TIME!!! 

Couple of pics from  before we flipped it today. Dont mind my messy driveway, the wind was nuts today.

Happy with the transom. Lots of work here to fill in damage by the P/O's "Trim tabs", and to re-round the outer edges of the transom.









Sides primed (what you can't see here is all the time spent re-shaping the chines. They were beat to hell):









Gettin' there....


----------



## Shalla Wata Rider

Lookin' good Noe ', Great attention to detail...Keep it Up, your'e on the back stretch...


----------



## NoeSmyrnaBch

> Great attention to detail...


Perhaps to a fault...its the only reason its not done yet lol


Picked up my paint tonight. Need to fix a few things on the bottom tonight and hope to get it primed tomorrow


----------



## NoeSmyrnaBch

Well, its not Little or Shalla's builds...but its still going...

Fist coat is down! Stoked! Color came out exactly like I wanted (home mixed with gloss green and gloss white rosto topside). Rolled and tipped. Its not perfect but it'll work. I didn't sand the bottom very well because..well...its the bottom and who cares. 

note to self, buy a better brush next time for tipping. This True Value top-of-the-line brush required a very wet edge at all times in order not to have the bristles clump together. Oh well


----------



## LWalker

Looking good. I love that color....nice mixture. Did you thin it or use any hardener?


----------



## NoeSmyrnaBch

> Looking good. I love that color....nice mixture. Did you thin it or use any hardener?


Thanks. Thinned it with a little mineral spirits, no hardener. The under decks have held up very well without it while I've been working on it (dropping tools, fuel on test runs, etc) so right now I don't see the need. I may kick myself for it later but we'll see.


----------



## permitchaser

I love the color helps you sneak up I'm them


----------



## Wolfscout

New here but I like your re-make.  I'm fixing to drastically do something similiar on my tired old Gheenoe.  It's a 1986 15'9'









I've only added front Nav light and a rear folding light since I took that image about.... 5 years ago. LOL


----------



## NoeSmyrnaBch

Thanks, Larry. Drastic is the only way to go when it comes to re-building!  


Finally got two good coats of paint on it with all this crappy weather. Turned out really good. Debating on another coat..I know they said not to do 3 with the Rustoleum but I had no issues with three on the inside, it hardened up nicely, and I've been putting it on pretty thin. I need to carpet the bunks on the trailer while its off, and I was thinking about painting the trailer to clean it up a bit. Still unsure about that..seems like a lot of extra work for not much gain. I need to just finish and fish the damn thing already.

Also picked up a new tow vehicle yesterday. A 2012 Frontier. Now I can tow either the Gheenoe or the real boat


----------



## nebecape28

Hi she is lookin good. I used rustoleum on a 35 ft pearson sail boat a few years back. I used it on the decks I did 1 coat then one coat and covered with none skid sand after drying I did one more over coat to bed the sand that lasted 5 years before I had to recoat I lived on that sailboat full time so the decks had daily use between my dog and I. PS that boat was in salt water cheers


----------



## NoeSmyrnaBch

Thats what I want to hear!


----------



## Wolfscout

I do plan to go some drastic. Mine's been painted about 4 times in since I bought her and I've always used rustoleum.
I'm wanting to add a front deck for bowfishing and a rear pole deck. However I'm thinking my old model is too narrow for that.


----------



## NoeSmyrnaBch

Got it flipped today. Almost dropped it but thankfully it landed on the trailer bunks almost exactly right. Last time I get the neighbor to help (left means right to him I guess...)

Anyway. Got the jack plate back on it, installed the rod tube covers, hatch pulls, and started cutting out the holes for the nav lights up front. Really loving how it looks. I still need to pick up some new rub rails, for the mean time I sprayed the ones I had black to get an idea of how they will look. 

Now comes all the little stuff...I have a feeling its going to add up to quite a bit of work to finish it up. 

Crappy phone pic in the dark makes the color look weird.


----------



## manatiburon

Nice job! You are certainly putting together a nice fishing machine. Really diggin' the color, here's your 'Noe's bigger sister... 








Rustoleum should make a seafoam color by now!  ;D


----------



## NoeSmyrnaBch

> Nice job! You are certainly putting together a nice fishing machine. Really diggin' the color, here's your 'Noe's bigger sister...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rustoleum should make a seafoam color by now!  ;D


Crazy how similar they are. I think mine is actually just a tiny  bit darker than yours, but you could probably only tell side by side. 

That pic reminds me, I need to get my FL numbers cut and installed!

I did get the front hatch installed and also installed the shark eye nav lights. Coming together quickly now


----------



## manatiburon

Keep on at it! You will be in the water in no time! Post some pics of the shark eyes if you can, I am thinking about it, but I'm not a big fan of making holes in the hull... your install might be what I need to get it done


----------



## NoeSmyrnaBch

I measured about 100 times before I started with the hole saw. Even still...I was seriously sweating it..even though I knew I could fix it if I messed it up lol

Here's a quick pic of one side with the LED shark eye light. They aren't wired up just yet...waiting on new rub rails to run the wiring.










Hope to get my new rub rails and nose cap this weekend so I can finish up the wiring and get on the damn water!


----------



## tomahawk

Drag that thing outside for a good daylight pic already...


----------



## NoeSmyrnaBch

If I could get home before dark one day I will.  Work sucks!


----------



## david_kohler

> If I could get home before dark one day I will.  Work sucks!


 ;D X2 can't wait to see it on the water. I know your dying by now.


----------



## NoeSmyrnaBch

> If I could get home before dark one day I will.  Work sucks!
> 
> 
> 
> ;D X2  can't wait to see it on the water.  I know your dying by now.
Click to expand...

I won't be able to get it on the water until I can get some new rub rails, which is apparently very hard to do. I've tried talking with the shop and was told initially that they may be able to work out a Saturday pickup but that email conversation has gone stale apparently now that its Friday. I can't get there during the hours they are open (M-F 9a-4p) with my work schedule so I dont know what to do now. Maybe I can find someone to pick some up for me if I paypal them the $$$. That's really all I'm waiting on to finish my wiring and get on the water!!!!


----------



## Dmagee

Bow lights look good, actually the hole boat makes the lights look good.


----------



## manatiburon

> I measured about 100 times before I started with the hole saw. Even still...I was seriously sweating it..even though I knew I could fix it if I messed it up lol
> 
> Here's a quick pic of one side with the LED shark eye light. They aren't wired up just yet...waiting on new rub rails to run the wiring.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hope to get my new rub rails and nose cap this weekend so I can finish up the wiring and get on the damn water!


Really dig the lights man! Kudos for a clean install!


----------



## NoeSmyrnaBch

only thing I don't like is that they are above the deck. Need to make a cover for them, looks like crap from inside the Gheenoe. 

Hope to pick up my rub rails tomorrow or Tuesday and finish it up.


----------



## manatiburon

Ditch the factory nose cap and make your own. I made mine out of leftover resin and glass, so it was 'free', that way you can make it just long enough to cover the ligths.


----------



## NoeSmyrnaBch

I might. I just purchased a new nose cap from the shop when I ordered my rub rails. I'll see how it looks and move on from there I guess. 

On the plus side, I did get my registration numbers cut and installed. One step closer!  
I've worked out a deal with one of the guys from the Gheenoe shop to pick up my rub rails after hours...just waiting to hear back from him and then its wire, wire, wire...FISH!


----------



## NoeSmyrnaBch

Couple of updates and pictures. 

Ordered my Nylatron rod for the push pole holders. Thanks to LWalker I'm going to try to build some like his.

Finally got in touch with someone at hydroturf and ordered my samples today too.

Got my tie-downs in tonight on the bunks and jack plate so no more cambuckle straps over the back deck and rub rail. This will be a lock quicker too with the quick straps. Will need to keep an eye on the dissimilar metals of the jack plate and eye bolts to see if they are going to corrode. The eye bolts will also double as the mounts for my poor-man's power pole(s) in the back.


















Think I have decided to keep this nose cap and trim about an inch off the back to make it fit. Will give me a good platform to mount a trolling motor too, and to assist in building something to cover the shark eyes since they had to be put in above the deck.









New kicks for the trailer. Current tires are good but the current rims are about to rust through. These and the trailer are going to be black eventually.









Started messing around with ideas for the casting platform. Its too tall right now, sitting with the top surface at 15". Needs to be about 12" I think. This will also double as the jump seat in front of the grab bar. Having a hard time trying to figure out a quick mount that will recess or be nearly flush on the deck and floor. Open to ideas if anyone has any.


















Shark Eyes installed










Tucked in for the night:


----------



## permitchaser

Did u make the casting platform. If so out of what and what size tubing. Schedule 40 or 80


----------



## Shalla Wata Rider

Lookin' Awesome Noe...You will be spring ready!!!!  [smiley=1-thumbsup3.gif] [smiley=1-beer.gif]


----------



## natasha1

yea, i want a 13 now! awesome stuff man.


----------



## NoeSmyrnaBch

> Did u make the casting platform. If so out of what and what size tubing. Schedule 40 or 80


Just some sched 40 I had to mock it up. It probably will end up being redone with some furniture grade to make it look nicer and be a little stronger, though this thing is plenty strong for my skinny ass.


I really am stuck on the tie-down for it though. I want something like the bluepoint setup (drilled/tapped carriage bolt that's been squashed) but at $60 each I'm having a pretty hard time with it. I looked at the Birdsall and it looks decent for about half the price. Only problem (with either of those) is I can't get under the false floor to put one in front of the grab bar. That may end up being my biggest problem. It may just end up being a wild ride for the passenger  

Tried to piece one together from home depot this afternoon but their cap coupling nuts don't allow a thread to be inserted from both ends (whats the point?!).


----------



## permitchaser

Thanks man I am going to make one and use a stainless turn buckle to hold it down. I have not figured how I'm going to attach it up the deck. I hate drilling holes in it :'(


----------



## NoeSmyrnaBch

> Thanks man I am going to make one and use a stainless turn buckle to hold it down. I have not figured how I'm going to attach it up the deck. I hate drilling holes in it :'(


Yep, that is exactly my problem. I'm too cheap to buy what I want lol. I'm sure I'll just end up biting the bullet and getting the birdsall mounts at least...if not the bluepoint. Why skimp at this point ya know..? :-?


----------



## gillz

Great Job So far [smiley=1-thumbsup3.gif]


> This will also double as the jump seat in front of the grab bar. Having a hard time trying to figure out a quick mount that will recess or be nearly flush on the deck and floor.


I had a thought while reading your post. Since you want to have the platform double as a jump seat, you could use some rare earth magnets under the deck and in the feet to hold it in place. You would just have to play with different sizes/strengths to make it strong enough to hold but not too strong where it puts too much pressure on the platform to pull it off.


----------



## cutrunner

Looking good man, I've been trying to stay away from this thread because there's a soft spot in my heart for the 13, and I don't need to be doing another rebuild lol
Have fun, you'll love the boat


----------



## permitchaser

> Did u make the casting platform. If so out of what and what size tubing. Schedule 40 or 80
> 
> 
> 
> Just some sched 40 I had to mock it up. It probably will end up being redone with some furniture grade to make it look nicer and be a little stronger, though this thing is plenty strong for my skinny ass.
> 
> I did some research on furniture grade and schedule 40 and they seem to have the same wall thickness...0.113 so schedule 80 has more wall thickness
> 
> I really am stuck on the tie-down for it though. I want something like the bluepoint setup (drilled/tapped carriage bolt that's been squashed) but at $60 each I'm having a pretty hard time with it. I looked at the Birdsall and it looks decent for about half the price. Only problem (with either of those) is I can't get under the false floor to put one in front of the grab bar. That may end up being my biggest problem. It may just end up being a wild ride for the passenger
> 
> Tried to piece one together from home depot this afternoon but their cap coupling nuts don't allow a thread to be inserted from both ends (whats the point?!).
Click to expand...


----------



## NoeSmyrnaBch

> I did some research on furniture grade and schedule 40 and they seem to have the same wall thickness...0.113 so schedule 80 has more wall thickness



Initially I thought that too, but while they may be similar in thickness, the furniture grade is more UV resistant, made of a different type of plastic, comes in the color I want so it won't scratch and reveal white, and the fittings are tapered at their ends so they won't grab a fly line as easily. Its the right choice over regular PVC, even the SCH 80. Also, in this case the majority of the force will be directed down along the legs, and at 12" there isn't much room for them to bow out or give. Making a 3 or 4 foot poling platform on the back would be a different story.


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## PG350

Looking good. You are doing to your 13 what I always wanted to do to my old one but did not have the skill to do. Good job.


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## permitchaser

> Thanks man I am going to make one and use a stainless turn buckle to hold it down. I have not figured how I'm going to attach it up the deck. I hate drilling holes in it :'(
> 
> 
> 
> Yep, that is exactly my problem. I'm too cheap to buy what I want lol. I'm sure I'll just end up biting the bullet and getting the birdsall mounts at least...if not the bluepoint. Why skimp at this point ya know..? :-?
Click to expand...

What material did u use for the top. I saw the 5.25 and didn't know if it was the price or something else


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

> Thanks man I am going to make one and use a stainless turn buckle to hold it down. I have not figured how I'm going to attach it up the deck. I hate drilling holes in it :'(
> 
> 
> 
> Yep, that is exactly my problem. I'm too cheap to buy what I want lol. I'm sure I'll just end up biting the bullet and getting the birdsall mounts at least...if not the bluepoint. Why skimp at this point ya know..? :-?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> What material did u use for the top. I saw the 5.25 and didn't know if it was the price or something else
Click to expand...

You're spot on..that was the price. Its a piece of starboard I found at the local marine surplus place. Figured for that price I could find something to do with it...seems like this might work out. Its on the small side for standing but it'll be a good compromise piece to use as a jump seat so it doesn't take up too much room when placed as the seat. That, and I've got decent balance


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

Ok, so some updates on my garage queen. I really need to get this thing in the water. Hopefully this weekend.

Motor's back on! WOO!!!









Starting to look like its ready to fish out of. Rod holders are in. They are certainly nothing fancy to look at but they do exactly what i wanted. I can store two rods per side plus a stick pin if needed, and they are COMPLETELY out of the way. Nothing to tangle lines with, bump shins on, or rip off. They also contour the rod to the shape of the hull so I don't lose precious inches of walk room around the grab bar.


















Push pole holders are install. Again, not exactly what I was after since I had to modify the center one but it works and I can push it out of the way when not in use.





















Nose cap isn't mounted yet. I can't get it back far enough with my rub rails. How far should it stick out in front? Currently its past my bow-eye and as far  back as it'll go









Hydroturf samples. Thinking I'm going to use the gray over white with the straight cut. Thoughts?









Future platform configuration possibilities. Just goofing around at this point:


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## PG350

Wow, looking great. Love everything about it.


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## shiprock8

Awesome! Great job.


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## LWalker

Nylatron. I like. How did you like working with it?


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## Shalla Wata Rider

Great Job Noe!That's the Total Skiff Make Over! keep those pics coming


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

> Nylatron. I like. How did you like working with it?


That is some seriously strong stuff. Much harder than I expected it to be. Used a forsner bit on my buddy's cheap-o drill press and it was bouncing the chuck around pretty bad but we got through it and cleaned them up in the belt sander. Very happy with them though. 

Thanks for the how to on them. Much appreciated 


Hopefully will have some in the water pictures this weekend as long as the weather is decent.


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## Troutmaster

I love the way you did the grab bar, was that hard to do?


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## jtgriffin

Hey NSB, this build is truly fantastic. This is exactly what I want to do to my 13 if I ever get the time. 

One question for you. How stable are the decks to actually fish off of on the 13? 

I got a yeti for Christmas and am thinking of putting it on a front deck to use more as a seat but I'm not sure how stable everything will be. Any thoughts here from the experts? 

Again, great build.


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

> Hey NSB, this build is truly fantastic. This is exactly what I want to do to my 13 if I ever get the time.
> 
> One question for you.  How stable are the decks to actually fish off of on the 13?
> 
> I got a yeti for Christmas and am thinking of putting it on a front deck to use more as a seat but I'm not sure how stable everything will be. Any thoughts here from the experts?
> 
> Again, great build.


Thanks!
The 13 is very stable for me on the water from what little time i've spent with it. The yeti would be fine, though I've heard they are about 15" tall and I think that is probably about the max height you would want to be on the front if you have a high deck like mine.


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## permitchaser

That's one cool boat. Great job on the build. Let see pictures of the first catch


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

Tried to get out today but I rode over to the ramp, took one look at turned right back around. First sunny day we've had for a while and the wind is crazy from the north east. White-cap city. So much for getting it wet this weekend


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

So I managed to sneak out of work about 4 today. Got home, changed and hooked up the Gheenoe. 
Finally got to dunk it in its ready-to-fish form tonight. Its been a long road but tonight was absolutely awesome, even with some wind and cool weather blowing in.

She poles AWESOME from the front platform. Its quiet, even in some pretty decent chop, and its quick. Tracking could be a little better but not a deal breaker by any means (probably more that I need to get the feel for it).

Threw the fly rod at a few boils but no hook ups. It didn't matter, I was out there to just enjoy it and put it through the paces.

Poling and fishing alone is going to be interesting. I'm sure I'll end up with a trolling motor, but I really don't want to. Maybe as a last resort. 

Anyway, on to the crappy cell phone pics. Time was limited so I didn't get the shots I wanted (didn't even take the real camera...maybe this weekend)

Heading out of Riverbreeze to the south









Poling from the front platform. Definitely need a new pole. This aluminum one isn't going to cut it after being spoiled with the carbon one I picked up for the bigger boat.









Back at the ramp:


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## Rediculous

Looks good, man. Why no platform in the rear?


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

> Looks good, man. Why no platform in the rear?


Thanks. 
Not real sure to be honest, other than weight distribution while i'm out by myself. The hatch is kind of large in the rear so it makes getting that open rather difficult too, but that's not a great excuse because the front of the bulk is open.


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

Finally, a couple of on-the-water pics from this afternoon. There were a few times I didn't think it would get this far. Looking back its come a long way from when I picked it up last April. I'm extremely happy with how it performs. Rough estimate of 20mph with me and the wife this afternoon, loaded with a full tank and a couple of bags of gear. If only the fish had been biting....oh well can't win them all.


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## Recidivists

Looks great!


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## Shalla Wata Rider

Awesome job Noe [smiley=1-beer-german.gif] Great to see it back in the shallows...keep the pics coming buddy.


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

Put a new poling "platform" on it today. I had been poling from the bow backwards, but its too noisy poling into a wind. I added some weight up front and then threw a cooler on the back (yeah, its not a yeti like all the cool kids have...but its not in my budget...yet). Also picked up a few stake out poles from Anytide (thanks, much better than the PVC I was using lol)

Snapped a few pics from this afternoons outing.


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## kfa4303

Practically perfect in every way, if you ask me. Congrats on a great build!


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## manatiburon

Beautiful finish! Looks like a mean fishing machine! Kudos on a job well done.


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## cutrunner

Came out great! Its sure hard to beat a 13, especially when you rebuild it yourself


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

Thanks guys. It really is a stupid-fun little boat. Fun to pole, floats in absolutely nothing, and nothing to really maintain. Doesn't get much better for fishing around here in the lagoons.


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## papo

awesome build, i cant wait to start on my 13' and this thread has really motivated me. I had one question, how is the paint holding up how long did you wait before you got it wet after paint.


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