# I'm gonna give this a shot!!



## msabol (May 18, 2010)

Hello folks, a newbie here. I've been lurking for a while and after following SeaHorse's progress I thought I'd try this as well. I'm getting an older 14' Stumpnocker($200) and will hopefully turn this into my own little backwater dream boat, or it will be the first of many beer filled evenings leading to my placement in a funny farm. Here are the pics I have so far, in fact, I haven't even seen the boat as of today...I'm getting it tomorrow. 







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## drewrossi (Jan 30, 2010)

Can't wait to see the progression!!!


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## flyfisheraa573 (Jun 26, 2008)

> Can't wait to see the progression!!!


X2!

nice little platform...should turn into a top shelf machine...good luck


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## JimCameron (Jan 3, 2010)

The best $200 you will ever spend. Keep us posted and keep the great photos coming.


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## noeettica (Sep 23, 2007)

Welcome [smiley=1-beer-german.gif]

Cool beans !


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## tom_in_orl (Dec 9, 2006)

Welcome to the forum [smiley=beer.gif] Cool project. Looks tippy!


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## FSUfisher (Jul 16, 2007)

That's gonna be one heck of a project! You can't go wrong if it was only $200. Looks like it'll be a seaworthy boat with those high gunnels. Keep us posted, and if you haven't figured out, most on here are already at the funny farm. I think it's the epoxy fumes, Brett could clarify.


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## bostick29412 (Apr 17, 2009)

That looks like a good little hull to spend some quality time with, get her gutted and you'll have a blank canvas to work from. Good luck, look forward to watching your progress.


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## msabol (May 18, 2010)

Well I bought the beauty today. Structurally I guess she's in decent shape. It appears the gelcoat is in good shape...a few nicks/gouges around the edges but nothing serious. There is a section in the center of the floor that was glassed over, but it is VERY soft and will have to be cut out and reglassed, and there appears to be a soft spot on part of the transom. I will bring it home on Sat and start to tear out the old and begin to spruce her up. In my mind I have a 'finished" project like this dragonfly "emerger...
http://www.microskiff.com/reviews/boats/dragonfly-emerger.html(No I don't believe my finished project will resemble anything close to that, but i just like the layout.)
So, here's a couple of questions....1)the stumpnocker does not ahve the bow that the emerger has...will that make for a poor design goal for the re-do?
2)Also, my boat has the outward flared rub rail on it. i would like to cut that away and replace it with an "inward" gunnell with rod holders underneath. Once again given the hull shape will I regret not having the outward flared rubrail to help keep spray down when moving? I don't expect to be dry in a boat but I also don't want to take a bath out there when I don't have to.
3)I was surprised at the just how high the gunnels are...should I plan on keeping the forward casting platform below the top level of the gunnels, or can I go to the top? Will balance become a problem?

If any of you have any ideas/thoughts as to the limitations I may have with this boat please let me know.


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## joshuabward (Apr 3, 2010)

> 2)Also, my boat has the outward flared rub rail on it.  i would like to cut that away and replace it with an "inward" gunnell with rod holders underneath.  Once again given the hull shape will I regret not having the outward flared rubrail to help keep spray down when moving?  I don't expect to be dry in a boat but I also don't want to take a bath out there when I don't have to.
> 3)I was surprised at the just how high the gunnels are...should I plan on keeping the forward casting platform below the top level of the gunnels, or can I go to the top?  Will balance become a problem?
> 
> If any of you have any ideas/thoughts as to the limitations I may have with this boat please let me know.



The knocker style hulls are not tippy at all, I had a 16 ft, if you stood on the corner of the stern you could not dip it,
so balance should not be an issue.
As far as the rubrail I would keep as much as possible, Even with one on my old knocker it would still spray you in anything more than 2mph winds ;D


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

That rubrail does more than keep spray out...it is structural. If you cut it off you may end up with a real dilema.

Take a look at the dusky skiffs, for they have a turned out cap rail.


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## msabol (May 18, 2010)

Well, I might have just blown $200.00. I picked up the boat this morning in gainesville, and I noticed some water in the floor of the boat as we loaded it into the back of my pickup....I thought that was a bit odd as it hasn't rained in a while. I got the boat home, and it was dry, I guess the hot sun/wind dried it on the 1 1/2 hr ride home. I unload it(with some unfriendly help from gravity, and realize "man this boat is heavy". I cut into the soft spot in the middle of the boat and it was soaked, puddles of water were everywhere.....in fact, the previous owner had used cardboard as backing for the fiberglass, instead of filling the area with fiberglass. No problem I think, I can handle that. But then I pressed around the floor behind the rear seat and felt some soft spots, I used a wood chisel to remove some of the glass and found wet plywood underneath. Now what? Do I remove everything from the boat? I will do that if it's salvageable. Also, can someone tell me how strong the original gelcoat is? What I mean is- if I remove the plywood flooring and nothing is left but a gelcoat shell, do I need to take extra care in how it "sits"? Can I leave it on the floor and work on it? Is it strong enough for me to walk on in side the boat?


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

Build a construction base first.
A flat level surface that will allow you to true the hull before doing demolition and rebuilding.
That hull is a gelcoat skin, fiberglass layers, plywood layer,
more fiberglass then the interior gelcoat.
Build a work base first!




























2x6 joists with 3/4 inch particle board deck atop them.
That way when you strip out the bad plywood
the hull will remain flat when you redeck it.


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## flyfisheraa573 (Jun 26, 2008)

vilano....listen to Brett...the man knows his stuff...you've got a long road ahead of you, but it is doable...worse has been brought back from the dead....it will be a learning process, but the result will give you pride....


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## pole_position (Dec 5, 2009)

I believe that is a Lu Craft hull not a Stumpknocker. They have the higher sides like you have there.


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## noeettica (Sep 23, 2007)

If you have the stomach (and the wallet) for it you will be fine 

It will be a great Learning tool which is priceless 


Wonder who picked up this "learning tool"


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## msabol (May 18, 2010)

Well, sadly I came to the realization that I don't have the patience/talent to fix her up....anybody looking for a great project boat??
http://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1294514835


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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

> Build a construction base first.
> A flat level surface that will allow you to true the hull before doing demolition and rebuilding.
> That hull is a gelcoat skin, fiberglass layers, plywood layer,
> more fiberglass then the interior gelcoat.
> ...


Hey Brett, When your replacing the floor and you put the boat on the platform you built if the hull is not completely flat would you add wood to the plat form to help form the hull's outer sides?


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

Whatever framing or blocks needed to get the hull back to it's original lines.
Have to be careful though, many hulls have lift wedges molded into
the last foot or so of the hull, just forward of the transom.
That's not a hook, that's a design feature. Like a non-moving trim tab.

example...


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## paint it black (Nov 3, 2007)

> Whatever framing or blocks needed to get the hull back to it's original lines.
> Have to be careful though, many hulls have lift wedges molded into
> the last foot or so of the hull, just forward of the transom.
> That's not a hook, that's a design feature. *Like a non-moving trim tab.*
> ...


My trihull had two small sections one on each bottom rear corner.
About the size of a trim tab and they came down at an angle.
To work somewhat as a trim tab.


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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

Thanks Brett, I have that on my Mitchell. I don't think I have that on on my 1967 Super Skeeter. I'll check. If I don't would you recomend I put it in or just stick with the oridginal design and possibly if needed get trim tabs.

Mudd Minnow


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

Stick with the original design.
The old Skeeters were operated from the bow.
That was what balanced the load.

http://www.stickmarsh.com/skeeter/part1.shtml


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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

Ok, Thanks for the info.


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