# Beryllium 17'3



## JellyFischer (Apr 8, 2019)




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## JellyFischer (Apr 8, 2019)




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## JellyFischer (Apr 8, 2019)




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## JellyFischer (Apr 8, 2019)




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## JellyFischer (Apr 8, 2019)




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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

Looking good! We need more pictures of the van, too!


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## Water Bound (Dec 12, 2018)

Looks great so far! Excited to see this one


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## JellyFischer (Apr 8, 2019)

View attachment 106322
View attachment 106324
View attachment 106326



bryson said:


> Looking good! We need more pictures of the van, too!


Thanks Bryson. Its pretty fun showing up to pick up supplies in the VW Bus. I can fit full size 4'x8' sheets of plywood or foam core in the bus. I can't say the same for my daily driver.


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## JellyFischer (Apr 8, 2019)

Water Bound said:


> Looks great so far! Excited to see this one


Thanks Water Bound. Its been fun getting to this stage. The hull takes shape pretty fast.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

Looks great. Man that looks like a wide boat up top. What's the beam on it?


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## Zika (Aug 6, 2015)

Very nice. Looking forward to following your progress, JF!


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## JellyFischer (Apr 8, 2019)

firecat1981 said:


> Looks great. Man that looks like a wide boat up top. What's the beam on it?


The waterline beam at 6" draft will be about 59"-60". The max beam up top as it sits right now is 74.5". Once you add a little bit of deck overhang and rubrail it will likely be right around 78.5", depending on how much deck you add. I think it looks wide on the top when viewed from the front because the bow narrows down a lot for a pretty sharp entry. I'm hoping this translates into a good ride in chop but still nice and stable at rest. It should be pretty comfortable on anchor too. It does not seem very wide when viewed from the side or stern. I'm very interested to see how wide it looks once flipped.


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## GullsGoneWild (Dec 16, 2014)

subscribed with enthusiasm


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## Pole Position (Apr 3, 2016)

Congrats--really looks good and I'm looking forward to following your build.



firecat1981 said:


> Looks great. Man that looks like a wide boat up top. What's the beam on it?


Does anyone know if Chris has a page comparing the specs of the Conchfish vs the Beryllium? I've found this ( https://hogfishdesign.wordpress.com/2019/05/16/latest-skiff-plans-available-for-purchase/) but it blurs out when I try to enlarge. I'm guessing the Beryllium has more deadrise but has more beam which should make the draft numbers somewhat similar ( ?? ). Any info would be greatly appreciated.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

You are doing a fantastic job Jelly.

If I could give you one piece of advice: now that you have it assembled put some casters on the platform. When you start sanding your wife, garage and everything in there will be covered with dust for the next three years. Roll it outside to sand.

Love the bus too.


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## JellyFischer (Apr 8, 2019)

Pole Position said:


> Congrats--really looks good and I'm looking forward to following your build.
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if Chris has a page comparing the specs of the Conchfish vs the Beryllium? I've found this ( https://hogfishdesign.wordpress.com/2019/05/16/latest-skiff-plans-available-for-purchase/) but it blurs out when I try to enlarge. I'm guessing the Beryllium has more deadrise but has more beam which should make the draft numbers somewhat similar ( ?? ). Any info would be greatly appreciated.


I don't believe there is a specific page on Chris' site comparing the two. The Beryllium does have more dead rise and more beam than the Conchfish. The line drawings for the Beryllium show a few different displacement and weight figures with draft ranging from 5"-7" which is fairly comparable to the Conchfish. Im sure if you email Chris he can give you more specs and comparisons.


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## JellyFischer (Apr 8, 2019)

DuckNut said:


> You are doing a fantastic job Jelly.
> 
> If I could give you one piece of advice: now that you have it assembled put some casters on the platform. When you start sanding your wife, garage and everything in there will be covered with dust for the next three years. Roll it outside to sand.
> 
> Love the bus too.


Thanks for the advice. I am very open to all ideas and suggestions. I have a set of casters but Im waiting to put them on until the hull is glassed. I built my table and stations a little too high and adding casters now would make it difficult to glass. Once the outer hull is glassed I will modify the table to make it a little shorter and add casters. I don't mind sanding foam in the garage but fairing compound is way too messy once it turns to dust.


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## Chris Morejohn (May 12, 2014)

Pole Position said:


> Congrats--really looks good and I'm looking forward to following your build.
> 
> 
> 
> Does anyone know if Chris has a page comparing the specs of the Conchfish vs the Beryllium? I've found this ( https://hogfishdesign.wordpress.com/2019/05/16/latest-skiff-plans-available-for-purchase/) but it blurs out when I try to enlarge. I'm guessing the Beryllium has more deadrise but has more beam which should make the draft numbers somewhat similar ( ?? ). Any info would be greatly appreciated.


Jellyfishes, polepostion,
Looking real good. I will start coring my Beryllium build today. 
I have been super busy in my life now between selling my Island home, shipping my beach loot back to the states and setting up shop and camp up here in Mt Olive NC. 
Tomorrow I will stake the time to write on my blogs all the differences about these designs.
I have an app now that takes pdf quality photos of my images so I will use this to let everyone be able to enlarge everything to see better and for home reprinting.
All this stuff takes time. 
Jellyfishes, I grew up in a VW van in the 60s traveling with my parents throughout California, Baja and mainland Mexico camping in her along the way. I will look up my old photos to share when they arrive from the Bahamas.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Fastest build progress ever...looks very nice!


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## Chris Morejohn (May 12, 2014)

In my office 1962 in Baha, camping with my parents in their VW bus.


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## JellyFischer (Apr 8, 2019)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Fastest build progress ever...looks very nice!


Thanks Smack. It took me about 2 months to get it to this stage. Just picking away at it a few hours here and there on nights and weekends, but it slowly adds up.


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## JellyFischer (Apr 8, 2019)

Chris Morejohn said:


> View attachment 106698
> 
> In my office 1962 in Baha, camping with my parents in their VW bus.


Thats too funny Chris. One of my big goals is to take a few months to fish, surf and camp Baja Mexico.


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## JellyFischer (Apr 8, 2019)

First time making putty with epoxy and 3m glass bubbles. There was definitely a learning curve between too much and too little filler. I got a little sloppier than I wanted with my fillets and filling small voids and screw holes. Also, my batches of epoxy kicked quicker than I expected though it was pretty warm last night. Overall it came out alright and the mistakes I made with the putty appear to be sanding out easily. 

I need to get a bow eye to make the flat spot for it and I think Im going to lay in 1/4" fiberglass backing plates for my trim tabs before I glass the transom. Still hoping to have the outside fiberglass completely done by the end of the year.


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

Looks good! As for the bow eye, I'd oversize the flat spot pretty good. The thickness of the glass will make it a good bit smaller. Plus, it will be easy to add a little putty later, but a huge pain if you have to sand into the glass to make it bigger, since you'll have to add more cloth on the inside of the hull to get your skin thickness back.

I wish I had made mine a little bit bigger -- I think it will be fine, but I might be cutting it close.


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## JellyFischer (Apr 8, 2019)

bryson said:


> Looks good! As for the bow eye, I'd oversize the flat spot pretty good. The thickness of the glass will make it a good bit smaller. Plus, it will be easy to add a little putty later, but a huge pain if you have to sand into the glass to make it bigger, since you'll have to add more cloth on the inside of the hull to get your skin thickness back.
> 
> I wish I had made mine a little bit bigger -- I think it will be fine, but I might be cutting it close.


Thanks for the recommendation Bryson. Little tips like that can really help save some time and aggravation down the road. I will make the flat spot on the large side and then come back to it later with putty if necessary.


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## Chris Morejohn (May 12, 2014)

JellyFischer said:


> First time making putty with epoxy and 3m glass bubbles. There was definitely a learning curve between too much and too little filler. I got a little sloppier than I wanted with my fillets and filling small voids and screw holes. Also, my batches of epoxy kicked quicker than I expected though it was pretty warm last night. Overall it came out alright and the mistakes I made with the putty appear to be sanding out easily.
> 
> I need to get a bow eye to make the flat spot for it and I think Im going to lay in 1/4" fiberglass backing plates for my trim tabs before I glass the transom. Still hoping to have the outside fiberglass completely done by the end of the year.
> View attachment 106960


Looks great. Real nice. 
A suggestion here.
When using your putty if it starts to kick just shove it under the sheer gap. This gap is good to be filled flush with the flat sheer plank. When I cut my core along the sheer and such I angle cut it so as to have the core as level with what’s going to be the deck landing area.
I suggest for all if going to build a deck that is in one piece to add the sheer flange return on before you start glassing. I say this because it is very easy and neat to have a flat landing pad to bond your deck to.
If you roll over and your sheer is not strait it’s harder to make a clean bond.
Now if you have glassed onto the flat sheer flange only that is fine..... but when you cut your jaggedly glass flange off leave at least 1” out wards to have a landing edge for your deck to land on.


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## JellyFischer (Apr 8, 2019)

Chris Morejohn said:


> Looks great. Real nice.
> A suggestion here.
> When using your putty if it starts to kick just shove it under the sheer gap. This gap is good to be filled flush with the flat sheer plank. When I cut my core along the sheer and such I angle cut it so as to have the core as level with what’s going to be the deck landing area.
> I suggest for all if going to build a deck that is in one piece to add the sheer flange return on before you start glassing. I say this because it is very easy and neat to have a flat landing pad to bond your deck to.
> ...


Thanks Chris. I wasn't sure if I should fill the sheer gap now or wait until the hull is flipped and use that as extra area for putty as Im attaching the deck. It sounds like I should fill it now. 

I plan to add the extra bend to the sheer flange for the deck to attach to before I glass the hull. PVC trim seems to be the material of choice to create the flange but if anyone has other recommendations please let me know.

Thanks!


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## Mountolive (Mar 21, 2016)

On the wood core conchfish 16 build, we had a big crew of friends come when it was time to glass. I need to look back in our build book and pics, but maybe 8-10 guys were there. I say this because you will have family visiting and they may be able to lend a hand. 

We had one guy (me) bossing everyone around and keeping the team coordinated. One guy just handled epoxy, mixing and passing it out. He even had a timer and timed the epoxy mixing, so the mixing was consistent. One guy just unrolled the pre-cut glass and laid it out straight before it was wet with epoxy (he was the tallest and had the biggest wingspan in the crew.) Several guys wet the glass with epoxy and rolled out bubbles and squeegeed everything flat. One guy was quality control (finding bubbles and keeping an eye on the whole boat vs just one tiny section of the boat. 

We did a practice run before mixing the epoxy. We rolled out all the pre-cut fiberglass and pretend passed tubs that would hold the epoxy, we pretend rolled, and went over the whole process before it actually started. This helped work out a lot of our kinks in the system. There were so many people, we needed to get our bodies choreographed, so we didn’t get in each other’s way. It made everything less stressful. 

If you go this way, you will need your fiberglass scissors sharp and be ready to make small snips here and there to allow the wet out glass to come into curves - especially at the stern corners, chines, and bow. Have someone ready to do this as needed. 

Have a ton of gloves and baby powder to put inside the gloves before you put them on your hands. (Try to put a sweaty hand into a nitrile glove, it is difficult). People are going to take gloves off for many reasons. They also break and tear. Paper towels are handy. 

You are going to get epoxy on the floor under the boat. Think about that before you start. Get any dogs or cats put up and kids outs da way. We had a dog get epoxy on her and it wasn’t fun. 

We kept any side talking to a minimum, turned off the stereo, and didn’t answer cell calls or messages, so we could hear team members ask for help (“need scissors snipping here. Need more epoxy. This batch is kicking. Etc.”) That helped the stress level stay low and made the glassing feel under control. 

If you go this route, it will happen fast. You need to be coordinated and have good communication. It was really fun. Take a lot of pictures, a wife, Mom, or person with clean hands is good for this. Have a food and a cooler of drinks full for the after party. You will do well to have this same crowd help glass the inside of the hull later on! 

None of us had ever glassed a whole hull before. We just brought common sense and a good attitude and got it done. 

Your build looks great! Happy for you and I appreciate your sentiment regarding getting your daughter involved. Memories and strong values to last a lifetime!


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## Mountolive (Mar 21, 2016)




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## JellyFischer (Apr 8, 2019)

Thanks @Mountolive for taking the time to write up that information and post photos. It is very helpful. I think I have 4 people ready to go and maybe one or two more I can round up. My goal is to do the whole outer hull in one day to avoid any issues with blush and it sounds like this is doable with a good crew. Now I just need to make sure I have enough supplies for the whole process.


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## Renegade (Aug 30, 2015)

I'm considering building one as well. Thanks for taking the time to post your build process.


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## mangoman (Dec 1, 2011)

Mountolive said:


> On the wood core conchfish 16 build, we had a big crew of friends come when it was time to glass. I need to look back in our build book and pics, but maybe 8-10 guys were there. I say this because you will have family visiting and they may be able to lend a hand.
> 
> We had one guy (me) bossing everyone around and keeping the team coordinated. One guy just handled epoxy, mixing and passing it out. He even had a timer and timed the epoxy mixing, so the mixing was consistent. One guy just unrolled the pre-cut glass and laid it out straight before it was wet with epoxy (he was the tallest and had the biggest wingspan in the crew.) Several guys wet the glass with epoxy and rolled out bubbles and squeegeed everything flat. One guy was quality control (finding bubbles and keeping an eye on the whole boat vs just one tiny section of the boat.
> 
> ...





Mountolive said:


> On the wood core conchfish 16 build, we had a big crew of friends come when it was time to glass. I need to look back in our build book and pics, but maybe 8-10 guys were there. I say this because you will have family visiting and they may be able to lend a hand.
> 
> We had one guy (me) bossing everyone around and keeping the team coordinated. One guy just handled epoxy, mixing and passing it out. He even had a timer and timed the epoxy mixing, so the mixing was consistent. One guy just unrolled the pre-cut glass and laid it out straight before it was wet with epoxy (he was the tallest and had the biggest wingspan in the crew.) Several guys wet the glass with epoxy and rolled out bubbles and squeegeed everything flat. One guy was quality control (finding bubbles and keeping an eye on the whole boat vs just one tiny section of the boat.
> 
> ...


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## JellyFischer (Apr 8, 2019)

It would be reasonable to classify today as a failure but I won't. To me failing means- 1. You didn't try as hard as you could of and/or 2. You didn't learn from the mistakes you made and/or 3. You quit. 

I had the crew arrive to glass the outer hull today. In preparation I did several test panels last week trying different methods and tools and getting familiar with the process in general. I decided based on my test results not to precoat the bare foam with epoxy prior to laying the glass. This comes from my surfboard building days where you never would precoat the polyurethane surfboard blank first. In fact, most surfboard shapers/laminators believe precoating the blank makes the surfboard weaker and adds weight. 

I learned that divinycell and surfboard blanks are not the same in terms of how they absorb resin, despite what my test panels showed. We were able to get the first layer of glass on the transom and one whole side of the boat and everything was going very well until I started to notice areas that we had "finished" started to appear dry again. I realized the foam was absorbing more resin than anticipated so we went back added an additional resin coat (previous resin had not fired yet), let it sit for a bit to absorb in the cloth, then removed the excess resin. This seemed to work well and we continued to glass starting on the second side of the hull. A few minutes later I went back and noticed areas starting to get dry again. 

It was then we made the decision to stop what we were doing and remove all the fiberglass we had laid so far. The foam core was absorbing way too much resin and we couldn't be sure when it would stop. It would be very difficult to know if we achieved a good bond until after the resin cured so we removed all the fiberglass while it was still pliable, then quickly spread the remaining resin on the hull to do a precoat.

Im a little bummed this happened because I specifically did test panels to rule out this scenario occurring. I also will miss my goal of getting the glass done by the end of December but it looks like the crew can meet again next weekend. Overall the crew did great and we had a very efficient system working. I think we will easily be able to do all three layers of glass next time. With the exception of the foam absorbing more resin than I realized it would, today went great. We learned a lot and we are ready to keep moving forward.


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

JellyFischer said:


> It would be reasonable to classify today as a failure but I won't. To me failing means- 1. You didn't try as hard as you could of and/or 2. You didn't learn from the mistakes you made and/or 3. You quit.
> 
> I had the crew arrive to glass the outer hull today. In preparation I did several test panels last week trying different methods and tools and getting familiar with the process in general. I decided based on my test results not to precoat the bare foam with epoxy prior to laying the glass. This comes from my surfboard building days where you never would precoat the polyurethane surfboard blank first. In fact, most surfboard shapers/laminators believe precoating the blank makes the surfboard weaker and adds weight.
> 
> ...


I avoided this same issue by a stroke of luck. I was originally going to do the exact same thing you did, but I switched my plan when I couldn't eliminate the wrinkles in my first layer of cloth. I was also really surprised as well as to how thirsty the foam was, as well as how long it took to fully absorb into the foam.


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## JellyFischer (Apr 8, 2019)

Yesterday we got the outer hull completely glassed with all three layers! From start to finish including prep and clean-up it took exactly 8 hours. We had a bit of a revolving crew with as many as 6 guys working at once to the last hour being just 2 guys. Im very thankful for the help I received. I know this can be done with just one or two people but it was nice having a good crew to rely on. Overall the glassing went great. A handful of small air pockets to fix but I expected that. I will go back and cut the excess glass from the shear flange in the next couple days. I have an old jonboat trailer that Im going to fix up and build a temporary frame on so that I can move the hull in and out of the garage easily for fairing and sanding.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Awesome job Jelly.


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## JellyFischer (Apr 8, 2019)

Fairing compound done. This process took much longer than expected. Now the fun begins sanding most of it back off!


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## JellyFischer (Apr 8, 2019)

I haven't done much with the boat in the last few months but I have put in a few hours here and there the last couple weeks and made some progress. I also decided to build a hollow wood prone paddle board which took a bit longer than expected and took time away from the boat.
Sanding the fairing compound down did not go very well. I think a lot of it is due to the white glass bubbles. Its very difficult for me to see imperfections in the white compound. I ended up trying out US Composites pre-mixed fairing compound that is more of a reddish/rust color and liked it much better. For me it mixes easier, lays down easier, sands about the same but is significantly easier to see where your imperfections are. The pre-mixed fairing compound is only about $7.00 more for a 4 gallon bucket compared to 3m glass bubbles and is totally worth it for me. Fairing and sanding the bottom of the hull is not completely done but I'd say its about 80%-90% there.
I flipped the hull a couple weeks ago! At this stage it is very light; I'd guess around 100 pounds. When we first flipped the hull it looked huge inside and I thought I'd made a mistake and was building too big of a boat for my needs. After lowering the table it sits on and looking at the boat right-side-up for the last two weeks I think it is going to be the perfect size. The interior has been sanded smooth, all the corners have been filleted with putty and the foam has been resin coated which means its time to glass the interior. I hope to have that done over the next week or two. I'll update again once its glassed.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

Looks great.


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## SurfDuffer (Dec 23, 2020)

I'm very curious what your glassing schedule was. From the looks of things you used a glassing schedule intended for a wood strip cored hull which would not be a strong enough glassing schedule for a foam cored hull particularly in terms of impact resistance and abrasion resistance on the running surface. With wood coring you can get away with a lot less glass as the wood itself is a harder and stronger core. Foam on the other hand is softer and would need more glass. Hoping this was 3 layers of 1708 and not three layers of E cloth as it appears.


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## TroutNreds12 (Jan 4, 2016)

Surfduff, I believe he is following Chris’s plans to the t as far as glassing goes. I also believe that if he is using epoxy he can use just cloth as opposed to 1708 or any may for that matter


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## TroutNreds12 (Jan 4, 2016)

Mat


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## JellyFischer (Apr 8, 2019)

SurfDuffer said:


> I'm very curious what your glassing schedule was. From the looks of things you used a glassing schedule intended for a wood strip cored hull which would not be a strong enough glassing schedule for a foam cored hull particularly in terms of impact resistance and abrasion resistance on the running surface. With wood coring you can get away with a lot less glass as the wood itself is a harder and stronger core. Foam on the other hand is softer and would need more glass. Hoping this was 3 layers of 1708 and not three layers of E cloth as it appears.


Hey SurfDuffer,
I am following Chris Morejohns plans and specifications for glassing when using epoxy resin. I have the specs in front of me now and it shows that for 3/4" foam core with epoxy resin the outside of the hull gets 3 layers of 10oz E cloth and the inside of the hull gets 3 layers of 10 oz E cloth. From the spray rail/upper chine and up only 2 layers are needed on both the inside and outside however I choose to do 3 full layers for a little extra protection. The lay up schedule is different for traditional poly resin- 1 layer 1.5oz matt and 2 layers 10 oz cloth, inside and out. I do not have the layup schedule for wood core construction. Mountolive should have those specs.

I believe every Chris Morejohn design build Ive seen on this site using foam core and epoxy has followed this same lay up schedule. I did several test panels and the results were amazing. Each time another layer is added the strength increases significantly, particularly when layers of glass are added to each side of the foam. Im sure someone with an engineering background can explain it better than me but I strongly believe the phrase "the whole is greater than the sum of its parts" applies to foam sandwich construction. You also have to remember that when the stringers, floor, bulkheads and cap are added this will significantly increase the overall strength as well but not puncture resistance, though I believe this lay up has plenty strong enough puncture resistance based on my test panels.

If you have any other questions let me know.


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## SurfDuffer (Dec 23, 2020)

I certainly don't doubt the strength of the hull itself because I've worked extensively with foam and fiberglass. My concern is specifically as it relates to impact resistance and abrasion resistance of the *running surface* as I stated. I would also have serious concerns about trailering over time. Be sure to use very wide and very well padded bunks. 3 layers of 10oz E is simply a very very thin layer of glass for the running surface of a hull even though it may be perfectly appropriate for the entire rest of the boat.

The boat looks awesome though. Carry on. Cheers.


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## JellyFischer (Apr 8, 2019)

SurfDuffer said:


> I certainly don't doubt the strength of the hull itself because I've worked extensively with foam and fiberglass. My concern is specifically as it relates to impact resistance and abrasion resistance of the *running surface* as I stated. I would also have serious concerns about trailering over time. Be sure to use very wide and very well padded bunks. 3 layers of 10oz E is simply a very very thin layer of glass for the running surface of a hull even though it may be perfectly appropriate for the entire rest of the boat.
> 
> The boat looks awesome though. Carry on. Cheers.


Thanks for your concerns and advice. I know you have experience building surfboards. I do as well. The difference in impact strength from 4 or 6 oz E glass and 10oz E glass really surprised me. Ive hit my test panels with hammers pretty hard and been very happy with the results. Of course I could put a hammer through them if I really tried but I could also do that with any skiff hull.

Im not sure how much you know about Chris Morejohn but I'll keep it pretty short and say he is arguably one of if not the most important and influential person(s) in modern skiff design. I'll let the rest of the microskiff community add to his accomplishments if they want. His lay up schedule has decades of in the field proven use and I trust his build methodology. 

If anyone has built or purchased a skiff using this lay up schedule please let me know if you have had any problems with the impact resistance this lay up schedule offers.


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

30ozs e glass cloth both sides of 3/4” foam is plenty sufficient when using epoxy! The original Whip per @Chris Morejohn had 3/4oz csm skin, 1.5oz csm, 10oz kevlar, 1.5csm. In my opinion and apparently Chris’ “given the e glass laminate schedule he recommends” the 3 layers 10oz e glass is superior to the old HB laminate schedule that worked very well for many years!

Personally, I would have opted to put the extra glass on the hull bottom opposed to a 3rd layer above the spray rails but the bottom here is solid rock also. My advise to the builder... “Follow what the designer says” he knows his stuff and is after all... The guy that designed it!😉 I’ve worked with a foam/glass laminate once or twice in my lifetime as well and can tell ya, if proper techniques are followed... you will have a very well built & strong skiff when complete!


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

I wanted to add to my previous reply...

the tight weave of the 10oz cloth will have a better impact and puncture resistance than csm and rovings or even biaxial. Don’t confuse this with me not liking biaxial, but it does have it’s place in building. Again, follow Chris’ plans and suggested lam schedule and you will be good to go.


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## JellyFischer (Apr 8, 2019)

JC Designs said:


> I wanted to add to my previous reply...
> 
> the tight weave of the 10oz cloth will have a better impact and puncture resistance than csm and rovings or even biaxial. Don’t confuse this with me not liking biaxial, but it does have it’s place in building. Again, follow Chris’ plans and suggested lam schedule and you will be good to go.


Thanks JC.


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## ShugC (Apr 23, 2016)

out of curiosity how many sheets of foam did it take to build the hull to this point?


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## JellyFischer (Apr 8, 2019)

ShugC said:


> out of curiosity how many sheets of foam did it take to build the hull to this point?


I have not been keeping track of exactly how much material Ive used but I believe it took 5 sheets to get the hull done.


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## ShugC (Apr 23, 2016)

JellyFischer said:


> I have not been keeping track of exactly how much material Ive used but I believe it took 5 sheets to get the hull done.


Close enough. Thanks for the reply.


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## Chris Morejohn (May 12, 2014)

Th


JC Designs said:


> I wanted to add to my previous reply...
> 
> the tight weave of the 10oz cloth will have a better impact and puncture resistance than csm and rovings or even biaxial. Don’t confuse this with me not liking biaxial, but it does have it’s place in building. Again, follow Chris’ plans and suggested lam schedule and you will be good to go.


thanks JC. What James said is correct. You can add many more layers of glass on the bottom outside skin if you want. Truth is you will still have a skiff that weighs less than the high end carbon skiffs. But...if you want a light skiff then follow my design specs.
if not going with a floor in my designs I have said just add more glass on the area of the floor.
a 12” wide strip of Uni carbon, sglass, Basalt cloth, 18oz roving works wonders. i never used double core in any of my build bottoms ever.


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## 17376 (May 5, 2017)

What happened with this?


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## JellyFischer (Apr 8, 2019)

Northfl89 said:


> What happened with this?


A handful of things brought the build to a stop but primarily it was lack of proper space to work in. In about a month the boat will be moving to air conditioned warehouse space and I plan to get back to working on it consistently.


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