# Wiring and how I’ve done it for 20+ years without fail



## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

Ok folks, so I’ve been reading through a lot of wiring threads and thought I would share what I do and in one spot instead of re posting in 50-60 threads! Now some of what I do does go against ABYC standards but what do they know anyway right?  I use the same methods on trailer wiring as I for boats and again, not a single failure in over 2 decades!

If using standard stranded wire “un tinned” which I try to avoid for obvious reasons, I use an old car audio installers method known as twist and tape but without the tape! There is a special way to twist the wires where they WILL NOT pull apart while maintaining flexibility! I then apply a small amount “very small” of dielectric/silicone grease to the splice and seal up using quality “not harbor freight” marine heat shrink! Done!

If using tinned wire, I strip back what I need, heat, twist, a little extra solder and again a quality heat shrink seals it all off! A properly soldered joint on tinned wire will not crack and fail like some folks say. This tends to happen on un tinned wire with solder joints. 

I avoid butt connectors “heat shrink or otherwise” like the plague. This is where most failures begin!

For end terminations, I use un shielded terminals.
I strip back the proper length, I then tin the wire if standard stranded, install termination and quality adhesive lined heat shrink. Once terminations are attached to there instrument or terminal block I will apply corrosion x in a thin film and viola. I then recommend the customer does the same periodically to continue protecting the bare metallic parts. I will try to get a video up showing my twist method but be warned their are a lot of residential/commercial electricians out there that will be crapping copper turds. Any how, hope this helps some of ya’ll in your electrical endeavors and I know it will save a small fortune over heat shrink butt connectors!


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## JIMMYZ750 (Feb 20, 2007)

Timing is everything........my high dollar assortment of Heat Shrink butt connectors just arrived from Amazon!


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## not2shabby (Sep 14, 2016)

What's the special method to twist the wires? I need photos! 

I have used butt connectors with success, but only with good ratcheting crimpers and I always heat shrink over the heat shrink butt connectors. The way I'm picturing twisting doesn't have the strain relief that a heat shrink butt connector (correctly installed) would provide.


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

not2shabby said:


> What's the special method to twist the wires? I need photos!
> 
> I have used butt connectors with success, but only with good ratcheting crimpers and I always heat shrink over the heat shrink butt connectors. The way I'm picturing twisting doesn't have the strain relief that a heat shrink butt connector (correctly installed) would provide.


Give me some time, I will do a video. If executed properly, it will not pull apart.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

not2shabby said:


> What's the special method to twist the wires? I need photos!
> I have used butt connectors with success, but only with good ratcheting crimpers and I always heat shrink over the heat shrink butt connectors. The way I'm picturing twisting doesn't have the strain relief that a heat shrink butt connector (correctly installed) would provide.


I use good quality heat shrink connectors and the heat shrink I put over is the type with the melt glue inside. always use a ratcheting type crimper. also, there are crimpers made for the heat shrink connectors that compensate for the added thickness. the regular ones will cut the heat shrink. I had a commie made ratcheting crimper for a while and realized it wasn't doing a good job. ordered a USA made one and was amazed at the difference. threw the old one in the trash.


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## GG34 (May 2, 2014)

Maybe not relevant to this exact topic but it's it possible to wire 2 batteries in a switch so I can select the battery I want to charge while the motor is running? Biggest question is where I would connect the motor wires.


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

GG34 said:


> Maybe not relevant to this exact topic but it's it possible to wire 2 batteries in a switch so I can select the battery I want to charge while the motor is running? Biggest question is where I would connect the motor wires.


Not relevant to this thread but yes, it is possible. All you need is a dual battery switch. Batt 1 + goes to Batt 1+ on switch, Batt 2 + goes to Batt 2 + on switch, engine + goes to common on switch, engine - goes to - of Batt 1 or two, lastly a jumper between both batt -. All - leads go directly to battery or a quality ground buss. If bilge pump is auto or on a float switch, that + lead gets fused accordingly and direct to battery.


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## CKEAT (Aug 26, 2015)

Are the self soldering butt injectors any good? Guess I will find out. Re wired my trailer with them, was pretty easy.


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

CKEAT said:


> Are the self soldering butt injectors any good? Guess I will find out. Re wired my trailer with them, was pretty easy.


Let us know, good place to keep this stuff! I simply wanted to share what has worked for me the best over the years with ya’ll. Nothing to gain here so ya’ll feel free to share what works for you please! I will try to do a “twist technique” demo video soon.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

CKEAT said:


> Are the self soldering butt injectors any good? Guess I will find out. Re wired my trailer with them, was pretty easy.


I’m hoping that’s a typo


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## Capnredfish (Feb 1, 2012)

Does the twisting involve a cordless drill? That’s what I use.


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## CKEAT (Aug 26, 2015)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> I’m hoping that’s a typo


Hahahahaha, damn iPhone. Of course it ain’t my fault. It’s the iPhone.  yes connectors not injectors. That’s pretty funny.


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## CKEAT (Aug 26, 2015)

Was referring to these. They sure make a nice connection, also add a tough if dielectric grease inside before soldering


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

Capnredfish said:


> Does the twisting involve a cordless drill? That’s what I use.


No, no drill.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Capnredfish said:


> Does the twisting involve a cordless drill? That’s what I use.


Top secret G-13 classified


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## Bill Payne (May 22, 2018)

JC Designs said:


> Ok folks, so I’ve been reading through a lot of wiring threads and thought I would share what I do and in one spot instead of re posting in 50-60 threads! Now some of what I do does go against ABYC standards but what do they know anyway right?  I use the same methods on trailer wiring as I for boats and again, not a single failure in over 2 decades!
> 
> If using standard stranded wire “un tinned” which I try to avoid for obvious reasons, I use an old car audio installers method known as twist and tape but without the tape! There is a special way to twist the wires where they WILL NOT pull apart while maintaining flexibility! I then apply a small amount “very small” of dielectric/silicone grease to the splice and seal up using quality “not harbor freight” marine heat shrink! Done!
> 
> ...


 Thanks for posting this! I am probably one of the people that posted an original thread with questions.

What gauge of tinned wire should I buy for accesories like nav lights and bilge pumps? I read 16 is minimum, but 14 or even 12 is better to guard against voltage drops. Is that correct?

Also I looked up the twist and tape, is this the technique?





Finally, is there a good online source for buying wire you all have used?


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

Bill Payne said:


> Thanks for posting this! I am probably one of the people that posted an original thread with questions.
> 
> What gauge of tinned wire should I buy for accesories like nav lights and bilge pumps? I read 16 is minimum, but 14 or even 12 is better to guard against voltage drops. Is that correct?
> 
> ...


While it is obvious that larger wire will reduce voltage drops it is as important to size the entire circuit properly. If the accessory calls for 20amp protection then the wire must be sized for 20amps at the needed run. The minimum I typically run is 14ga though if that helps.


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## not2shabby (Sep 14, 2016)

Bill Payne said:


> Finally, is there a good online source for buying wire you all have used?


I’ve used tinnedmarinewire.com for a couple rewire projects. Great Products/materials and service.


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

Bill Payne said:


> Thanks for posting this! I am probably one of the people that posted an original thread with questions.
> 
> What gauge of tinned wire should I buy for accesories like nav lights and bilge pumps? I read 16 is minimum, but 14 or even 12 is better to guard against voltage drops. Is that correct?
> 
> ...


This technique works but is different than what I use. I’ll make a video as soon as I have some time and post it up.


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## not2shabby (Sep 14, 2016)

CKEAT said:


> Was referring to these. They sure make a nice connection, also add a tough if dielectric grease inside before soldering


I’m going to vote no on dielectric grease inside the connector. Dielectric is an insulator, not a conductor. Right?


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## Capnredfish (Feb 1, 2012)

I misunderstood. I thought you meant twisting a group of wires together.


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

I twist wire together, don't know if it's right, then use liquid tape and paint it, then shrink tube it.
Didn't know I was using the wrong shrink. So where do you get marine shrink?
I put in a new TM foot switch and the wires where masive, I couldn't twist them. So then what to do??
Thanks for starting this


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## Rollbar (Oct 20, 2016)

Bill Payne said:


> Thanks for posting this! I am probably one of the people that posted an original thread with questions.
> 
> What gauge of tinned wire should I buy for accesories like nav lights and bilge pumps? I read 16 is minimum, but 14 or even 12 is better to guard against voltage drops. Is that correct?
> 
> ...



That's is nothing new but works.

We use to twist copper (certain way) and would not come apart.
Learned it in 12th grade in electrical class.
Then using copper as a lineman for all those years etc..


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## Zika (Aug 6, 2015)

devrep said:


> I use good quality heat shrink connectors and the heat shrink I put over is the type with the melt glue inside. always use a ratcheting type crimper. also, there are crimpers made for the heat shrink connectors that compensate for the added thickness. the regular ones will cut the heat shrink. I had a commie made ratcheting crimper for a while and realized it wasn't doing a good job. ordered a USA made one and was amazed at the difference. threw the old one in the trash.



Got a link or name brand on the quality crimpers? I've used Craftsman plier-like crimpers but you do have to be careful not to cut the shrink.

And James, thank for the tips. I'm sure many members appreciate you sharing your wisdom and experience.


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

Any time Capt! Perfect timing btw, I really needed my daily dose of affirmation! 🤪


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

mine are Klein but I think Greenlee makes a good one too. https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-Ratcheting-Crimper-10-22/dp/B07WMB61J5
mine are actually a different model but I don't see them listed anymore.


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

@devrep, the kline’s are great crimpers. Mine are the Snap on version. I’m pretty sure they are just rebranded Kline’s but they have been great for many years! Would have skipped on the Gold Plated Snap on name, but needed a new pair right then when I bought them so paid about 50%more for them.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

ha! snap on is the chittum of tools lol.


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

devrep said:


> ha! snap on is the chittum of tools lol.


Well damn, now I feel like I need to start a thread for some more affirmation! 😂 🤘


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

So where do I get marine shrink and one those wire stripping devices in the video


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

google. I never heard of marine shrink.


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

Anchor makes an adhesive lined “marine” heat shrink tubing.


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

https://www.amazon.com/Ancor-305148-Electrical-Adhesive-48-Inches/dp/B000NI3L3C/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?adgrpid=54884562686&dchild=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw97P5BRBQEiwAGflV6UUDK18j-eswbvNPQwwpqs8dCuBIyMAtLGs2dZY-a7qL3GRlfWIlUhoCb-YQAvD_BwE&hvadid=410069571734&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=9012335&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=14524737951609031029&hvtargid=kwd-300655128704&hydadcr=9874_11542669&keywords=anchor+heat+shrink&qid=1596845205&sr=8-3&tag=hydsma-20


Here is one source, but there are many others.


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## Zika (Aug 6, 2015)

Thanks Devrep!


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