# 13ft Gheenoe Rebuid



## Dalecityusa (Sep 14, 2016)

Been working on this little project for a while but have had a busy month and am now out of town for work training.... thought I'd get some opinions on the project before I get back and start working on it again

Here's where I'm at

Got the templates for the transom and front bulkheads cut out using cardboard

Got the majority of my grinding finished


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## Dalecityusa (Sep 14, 2016)

View attachment 2091


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## Dalecityusa (Sep 14, 2016)

I'm using epoxy and 1/2 marine ply

Just ordered a small amount of 1708 for my transom , and a big roll of 6oz cloth for my bulkheads and false floor 

Really don't want to grind anymore ... hahah but do you think i should grind out the hard to reach places like the corners of the transom ? Or should I be fine with what I have done already ? If I need to what's the best way to get in there ? My 4.5in grinder can't fit in those tight spaces. 

I was planning on classing in one layer of 1708 both sides of the transom (which is gonna be 1 in think ) and one layer of 6oz to both sides of floor , front and rear bulkheads and casting platforms 

Any info will be great ! Excited to start up my project again !


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

I used 3/8" ply and was successful with 6oz on both sides, so you should be fine since you are using 1/2" ply... 

On the other hand, why 1708? You can just use 17oz biax or even 12oz biax for that transom. That 1708 will soak up a lot of epoxy and is really made for poly resins (I believe the 8oz mat helps dissolve the styrene).

According to Bateau, 1708 is 17oz biax with 8oz mat on the other side: http://boatbuildercentral.com/proddetail.php?prod=E_bias_1708


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## Dalecityusa (Sep 14, 2016)

yobata said:


> I used 3/8" ply and was successful with 6oz on both sides, so you should be fine since you are using 1/2" ply...
> 
> On the other hand, why 1708? You can just use 17oz biax or even 12oz biax for that transom. That 1708 will soak up a lot of epoxy and is really made for poly resins (I believe the 8oz mat helps dissolve the styrene).
> 
> According to Bateau, 1708 is 17oz biax with 8oz mat on the other side: http://boatbuildercentral.com/proddetail.php?prod=E_bias_1708


I'm gonna use the 1708 for transom only , reason is that I have had transom problems on this gheeno before my rebuild and want to make sure to really beef it up so I don't have to worry about it again. 

I'm pretty sure you can use epoxy on 1708 if I'm wrong lemme know so I don't have to do it over hahaha


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

1708 on both sides of transom? Explain this, may not be a good idea.


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## trekker (Sep 19, 2015)

DuckNut said:


> 1708 on both sides of transom? Explain this, may not be a good idea.


Why?


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## Dalecityusa (Sep 14, 2016)

DuckNut said:


> 1708 on both sides of transom? Explain this, may not be a good idea.


Sorry now saying it makes no sense ... I was meaning to say I was just gonna use 1708 to glass in the transom 

Not both sides

Both sides on the bulkheads but only one side on transom


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Atta boy.

Trekker- just needed clarification on whether he was going to put glass on both sides of the wood and then put the piece in, or put the piece in and then put the glass on, or was the glass going on the outside of the transom, etc. The bond between outer skin and the wood will be the best if the transom is assembled as he described in his clarification.


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## trekker (Sep 19, 2015)

DuckNut said:


> Atta boy.
> 
> Trekker- just needed clarification on whether he was going to put glass on both sides of the wood and then put the piece in, or put the piece in and then put the glass on, or was the glass going on the outside of the transom, etc. The bond between outer skin and the wood will be the best if the transom is assembled as he described in his clarification.


Gotya.


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## Dalecityusa (Sep 14, 2016)

Alright finally just got back home ! Ready to continue this build ... more to come soon


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## predacious (Sep 1, 2016)

Dalecityusa said:


> I'm gonna use the 1708 for transom only , reason is that I have had transom problems on this gheeno before my rebuild and want to make sure to really beef it up so I don't have to worry about it again.
> 
> I'm pretty sure you can use epoxy on 1708 if I'm wrong lemme know so I don't have to do it over hahaha




transom problems come from using wood and polyester resins.wood requires proper sealing,fail to seal and it rots.polyester resins are porous,wood requires epoxy


laminating a replacement transom core:

no need for 1708 between anything.use a laminating mix of epoxy thickened - me,i like and use west system,mixed with 403 adhesive additive - first wet the wood with the epoxy mix,then,coat it in the lamination mix,clamp in place.this is a permenant bond,that WILL NOT FAIL.after the lamination mix kicks,pull the clamps,prep surfaces,and cover in glass,after filling the seams.the end grain of the plywood is where the wood will absorb the most - be sure it's all sealed

side note: NEVER throw epoxy cups,with leftover epoxy,mixed epoxy in the trash can - this is how fires start !
keep a small bucket of water nearby,drop the used cups in there.epoxy generates heat,enough heat to start a fire

gheenoes have a small block of wood,where the garboard plug is - be sure and remove that.

one giant mistake I see done a lot:

lack of grinding correctly - fiberglass requires prep,proper prep.transom core needs to be glassed to hull's bottom and sides.the hole for the garboard plug,it needs to be sealed properly with epoxy - don't forget that

that wood core,and ANYTHING wood,needs to be sealed ! plywood will wick water like a sponge - freshwater rots wod,saltwater tends to preserve.rainwater is the worst


side note:

it's 2016,this is too late,however,using wood may not have been your best choice


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## Dalecityusa (Sep 14, 2016)

predacious said:


> transom problems come from using wood and polyester resins.wood requires proper sealing,fail to seal and it rots.polyester resins are porous,wood requires epoxy
> 
> 
> laminating a replacement transom core:
> ...


Appreciate the advice ! Thanks


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## Dalecityusa (Sep 14, 2016)

What is everyones thoughts of putting a small polling platform on the back? I have an opportunity to get one for an unreal price and wanted to ask around before I pulled the trigger ... I know it's probably not gonna be to stable but I think it's too good to pass up


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## predacious (Sep 1, 2016)

Dalecityusa said:


> What is everyones thoughts of putting a small polling platform on the back? I have an opportunity to get one for an unreal price and wanted to ask around before I pulled the trigger ... I know it's probably not gonna be to stable but I think it's too good to pass up




here's a much better idea:


instead of wasting money on a poling platform,use the money towards quality COMPOSITE materials


old saying:

"buy the steak,NOT the sizzle"


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## Dalecityusa (Sep 14, 2016)

predacious said:


> here's a much better idea:
> 
> 
> instead of wasting money on a poling platform,use the money towards quality COMPOSITE materials
> ...


Yeah but what's a steak with no seasoning ...? 

Kiddin , I already got my materials and imma stick to em... already beginning to cut out some bulkheads


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## Dalecityusa (Sep 14, 2016)

For obvious reasons, Im waiting on the hurricane to pass before I starting working on the boat. My brothers are town so i do plan on cutting out some more bulkheads and transom with their help


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## Dalecityusa (Sep 14, 2016)

Looks like im gonna have to get more wood for the false floor anyways, but am thinking of downsizing to 3/8in ply to make the floor... will it be strong enough if glassed w 6oz? 

Thoughts?


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## Dalecityusa (Sep 14, 2016)

So continuing cutting out my templates and having some trouble making everything fit. But I'm sanding and cutting and should be getting to the glasssing stage relatively soon. 

Question : should I fiberglass the bulkheads outside of the boat then tabb them? or tab them in first then glass them over ?


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