# Hollow braid splicing question



## Scrather (Mar 12, 2018)

So I am setting up a Tibor Gulfstream for Tarpon and went with 80 lb power pro hollow core for backing. Now I'd really like to insert the fly line into the power pro and have a nice smooth connection. So far I can't get the fly line far enough into the pp to make any kind of connection. Ideas and suggestions are welcome. On my own my next step would be to get some 130 lb 16 strand hollow core and use a section of that to connect the fly line to the 80 lb pp that I would splice to the 130.


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## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

This is going to sound really long and complicated but its not at all, I have setup a bunch of reels like this. You can use 80 lb hollow core, no need for 120lb. I have 12wt tarpon line fed into 80, no issues.

Cut the rear loop off the fly line and use a razor blade to trim the line at an angle so it's pointy.

Place a crease with your fingernail in the hollow core a couple feet up from the tag end so you have a reference point of where to stop. Sharpie works also...

Make sure the section of hollow core you intend on working with has no twist.

Next take a daho needle or a piece of creased doubled up 10 lb mono to open up the hollow core for a couple feet. Starting at the end of the hollow core insert the mono or daho needle and start feeding the needle or mono in. You are basically pushing the needle or creased mono through the end of the hollow core. Thumb and index finger near the point of the needle or mono. Other index finger and thumb pushing the hollow core onto the point of the needle or creased mono. The hollow core will bunch up on the needle or mono, let it, just keep inching it on. Some of the bunched up hollow core will fall off the back of the needle, this is perfect, let it. Once you get to your mark of where to stop go ahead and poke the needle or mono out of the side wall and set it aside. Do not stretch the bunched up hollow core out. You now have a couple feet that is loose which means you are ready to put the fly line in.

Insert the pointy end of the fly line you trimmed in step one into the tag end of the opened up hollow core. Since the hollow core is bunched up you are
basically feeding the fly line into it, pushig the bunched up hollow core onto the fly line. Advance the fly line to the part of the hollow core you previously marked or creased with your fingernail, usually a couple feet up from the tag end.

Once the fly line reaches this pre determine point pinch the fly line and hollow core at that mark mark with one hand and use your other hand to stretch any bunched up hollow core down the fly line toward the fly line head. You are getting rid of slack here, stretching the hollow core down the fly line. Remember to work from the point you pinched back towards the head of the fly line.

Lastly take some spiderwire 20 lb invisibraid and do two nail knots butted up next to each other where the tag end of the hollow core / fly line transition is. You want both knots as close to the end of the hollow core as you can get without falling off the tag end of the hollow core. The nails need to seat down onto the hollow core and sink into the fly line coating just a tiny bit. Any frayed ends of hollow core left sticking out can be trimmed once the nails are seated. I place my first nail right at the end, then come back with the second nail seated behind the first.
I use a little extra spider wire and do a loose 8 turn nail knot. I tighten slowly so I can slide the knot up near the end of the tag of the hollow core.

Before tightening the nail completely make two double overhand loop knots on each tag end of the nail. Use fly scissors, pens, pliers or something in each loop to help tighten the nail down. It will go from white to translucent. You will cut yourself trying to pull down by hand, hence the overhand loops and scissors to tighten. Once you see the knot change color it's done, stop tightening. Again repeat with another nail directly behind the first one.

Trim any excess frayed ends of hollow core sticking up with fly tying scissors. I will spread a very thin drop of uv loon over that transition and it's as seamless as you can get.

Sounds difficult but it's pretty easy. Hope that helps!


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## Danny Moody (Jan 22, 2016)

It is going to be difficult to splice the fly line in without the correct tools. And it will be difficult to buy the right tools if you don’t know the exact diameter of your fly line. I tie all of my own wind on leaders for offshore conventional fishing and have a large collection of splicing needles. They are expensive (approx $20ea). Your fly line may be too thick for the 80lb hollow core. The rule of thumb is you almost double the # rating of the mono leader you are splicing to get the hollow core rating you need. Since the end of the fly line may be equivalent to say 80# mono, you would need 150# HC to make the splice. 

You also need to know how to serve the splice. 

You will probably be best to have someone make the splice for you that can size it correctly. You will end up with a whipped HC loop at the end of the line which you can make a loop to loop connection to your existing hollow core.

If your near Jupiter, FL. I’ll be happy to help you with the tools I have.

Danny Moody


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## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

If you want to get fancy you can splice a loop into the rear of the hollow core that the fly line is fed into. Splice another loop at the terminal end of the backing and still have a loop to loop that is so small it's not noticable, while still having your fly line fed into the hollow core. This would allow you to switch lines if needed.


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## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

If you are close by I will do it for you. I'm in Orlando.


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## Scrather (Mar 12, 2018)

Thank you all! Unfortunately I am listening to winter storm Xanto blow up here in NY, or I would take you up on the offers. I'll most likely buy a couple of Daho needles because I'd also like to make wind on leaders for some offshore reels. I have the bobbins and some Kevlar thread for serving, though I have not done it.


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## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

Try using a 4 ft section of 10 lb mono with a hard pinched crease right in the middle as your point. I use my daho needle to open the hollow core, but the mono will work on 80 fairly easy. 

Some daho needles are used for opening the line. Others have a rear wire loop for pulling. My needle with the rear wire loop broke. I have been getting by with the mono method to make spliced loops for a couple years now. 

You wouldn't be using the daho with the rear wire loop to pull the fly line through the hollow core anyways so not sure I would go buy one till you do some trial and error.

The only line I can think of that would give you trouble with 80lb hollow core would be airflo ridge due to its diameter. Anything else should fit without issue.


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## jay.bush1434 (Dec 27, 2014)

I use the Daho needles. I have the full set that have hollowed back ends that the line slides up in. Just push the needle in and feed the hollow core over the needle. You can use 20lb hard mono with a smooth taper on the tip if you don't want to spring for the Daho set.


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## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

Thin leader wire creased in half will also work in place of a daho.


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## Scrather (Mar 12, 2018)

Thanks for the info. My local fishing store only had latch needles and no light wire either. So instead I went to Michaels Crafts store, got some light bead wire and that did the trick. I think the inside of a ballpoint pen would make a good needle for heavier hollow core than the pp 80 I have, but it was just a little too big for my use. The wire worked well, part of what I needed was getting the right magnification so I could see well.


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## TheAdamsProject (Oct 29, 2007)

el9surf said:


> Thin leader wire creased in half will also work in place of a daho.


This is what I use for splicing loops in my hollowcore. I like the Threadlock from Seaguar in 50lb or 60lb


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## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

nativejax said:


> This is what I use for splicing loops in my hollowcore. I like the Threadlock from Seaguar in 50lb or 60lb


Threadloc, PP hollow ace, Toro tamer.... They are all 16 strand hollow Spectra. Toro tamer has the biggest color selection. I use 40 lb up to my 9 wt gear and 60 lb on my 10wt+. The lb test rating is irrelevant, it's for the diameter. Been using the hollow core for about 4 -5 years now and wouldn't switch back unless I got a reel that came rigged free with Dacron. Even then I would switch it out at some point.

I splice color changes at the 100 or 50 yard mark on all my gear. Probably overkill but I always have an idea of what's left on the reel after a big run. None of my reels have a Bimini. Any reel setup with a loop at the terminal end of the backing has a spliced loop. Those are all connected to a spliced braided mono loop which collapses down much slimmer than the factory welded loops. On my 11 & 12 wt reels I will usually feed the fly line into the hollow core. For ease of changing lines I will still splice loops into the hollow core but those are seamless. Pretty cool when you fly line goes burning out the guides and you don't hear any clicking of a knot or welded loop. Same goes for winding the fly line back into the guides.


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## jsnipes (May 1, 2011)

Some fly lines are really slick also, might consider using some light sandpaper to rough up the few feet of fly line you are planning to splice. This is always how I built offshore wind-ons with 200/400lb mono


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## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

jsnipes said:


> Some fly lines are really slick also, might consider using some light sandpaper to rough up the few feet of fly line you are planning to splice. This is always how I built offshore wind-ons with 200/400lb mono


Good point, forgot to mention that. I will mark the fly line about an inch short of the total length what I intend to insert. That part gets scuffed up with sand paper.


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## Scrather (Mar 12, 2018)

I'll try that next time. I was just happy to get the line into the braid this time. I superglued a half inch section and serviced over it at the reel end of the splice figuring this would hold and let tension do the Chinese finger cuff thing to the rest of the splice. I stretched the hollow core out as much as possible over the fly line, and tested it with maybe 25 lbs of pressure and it didn't budge. Last night my 75 lb 8 year old took me well into the backing...it was awesome hearing the Tibor sing!


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## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

Scrather said:


> I'll try that next time. I was just happy to get the line into the braid this time. I superglued a half inch section and serviced over it at the reel end of the splice figuring this would hold and let tension do the Chinese finger cuff thing to the rest of the splice. I stretched the hollow core out as much as possible over the fly line, and tested it with maybe 25 lbs of pressure and it didn't budge. Last night my 75 lb 8 year old took me well into the backing...it was awesome hearing the Tibor sing!


I would still throw a nail knot in there with 20 lb invisibraid for good measure. Super glue can crack and loose some of it's integrity when it bends and passes through the guides.


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