# Onboard charger factory extension required Fact or Fiction?



## JIMMYZ750 (Feb 20, 2007)

Not an electrical genius by any means but like to tackle basic wiring of small skiffs to include bilge pumps, trolling motors, GPS, lights etc. Currently working on a LT 25 and want to run a Group 24 aft for the TT and electric start. Keeping a Group 27 up front for trolling motor and to run all misc accessories from control panel mounted near rear. I have a XPSIT 4/4 onboard charger by ProMarine. Manual says lead one is for TM battery and lead two for Crank battery. The length of Lead one will require an extension to get to the front of the noe. I had already run under the decking a set of 10ga and set of 14ga and 16ga for the nav lights. The charger uses 14ga and the factory extensions look like 14ga with addl fuses but only 15' long and not long enough.
Here comes the questions.
Should i ignore the manual that states i must die if i splice any lead one cables to connect to one of my wires already pulled. I would use correct gage shrink wrapped butt connectors for all connections. If ok which gage should i use for the charger and which set to power up the control panel? 
Should i just suck it up and buy the factory extension and drape it across the length of the LT when using the onboard charger?
Also when you use an onboard charger is it suggested to disconnect all other leads from batteries when charging?
Am i overthinking this like i seem to do everything?
Thanks for any advice.
Jimmy


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## State fish rob (Jan 25, 2017)

Wouldn’t think you need to disconnect other wires. Computerized chargers are so easy kick off , I’d use factory extension and try to fish it thru to where it’s needed. If youre draping cables , you’ve wasted money on on board charger. Plug n play


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## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

Take a deep breath and try to figure out how to mount that on board charger near the battery that you're wanting to keep charged... I'm running an on board charger my self now (a PowerMania solid state, etc). If I ever have the slightest problem with it I'm going to be needed factory support (warranty hopefully...) so when they say not to monkey around with the charging leads - I'm listening... If I had needed to do an extended lead for one battery or other I'd be on the phone to their tech support for advice... Remember the longer your wiring run is - the heavier the wire needs to be - and never, repeat never, use anything other than tinned copper wiring for boats... 

Hope this helps. Aren't boats fun?


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## jay.bush1434 (Dec 27, 2014)

Consult a voltage drop chart to determine the proper size wire for the length of the wire run. Like Capt Lemay said, always use marine grade tinned copper wire. Regarding adding an extension; wire is just like pipe for electrons. Make sure you have the right size and your connections are good. The splicing connection part is probably where most folks make problems for themselves. While heat shrink butt splice crimp connectors are usually ok, on larger gauge wire it can be tricky to get a good solid crimp to make a good connection. I would suggest soldering the leads for the best connection and then adhesive lined heat shrink tubing. Make sure to stagger your splices for ease of working with the splices and to help keep the overall size of the splices from getting too fat.
Also, if you are having to disconnect and swap charging leads around, you are defeating the purpose of having an onboard charger. Since you are working on a lightweight boat, you might consider putting quick connect leads on your batteries and on the charger leads. That way you can leave the charger at home to save weight and then quickly connect the charger leads to the batteries when you get home. Just a thought...


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## State fish rob (Jan 25, 2017)

call Them ^^^. Prosport marine Sent me replacement leads on a different boat.free of charge They had been cut to sleeve thru gunnel support Wth


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## JIMMYZ750 (Feb 20, 2007)

OK all good info. First as suggested i always use marine grade tinned copper wire but i admit do not always solder connections. Understand jaybush concerns as i have sometimes crimped and shrink wrapped a connection and then electrical taped the crap out of it so it might help to never pull apart. Also checked voltage drop chart and wire gage is on the cusp of 14-12 but as i have 10ga already run i feel there should not be a problem in that regard. Lemaymiami got me thinking about getting closer to the battery that needs to be charged so what if......

Option one: mount the charger up front with lead #1 directly to group 27 and lead #2 to the 10ga that runs back to the group 24 in the rear. Use the 14ga already run to connect the group 27 to the switch panel in the rear.

Option two: (idea from a friend) mount charger in the rear with lead#1 to the switch panel and the 10ga from the switch panel to the group 27 upfront and lead#2 to the group 24 in rear.

This would enable the use of the on board charger as statefishrob suggests. Not sure if there is a flaw in either option or just a matter of preference or convenience. 

Hopefully getting closer to a plan!!


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