# Start from scratch



## flyfshrmn82

Keep us posted on you progress. Good job.


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## deerfly

I was born and raised in S. Fl myself, 1957. We moved to W Central Fl in 1998 and the only thing I miss down there is the fishing too. 

Your skiff project looks like fun and you're moving right along.  

I have a few questions if you don't mind...

What are the general dimensions?

Is the tunnel box a compression style or is it rectangular(can't quite tell from the pic's)?

What kind of weight and draft are you expecting when its finished?


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## flytieguy

DUUUUUUUDE!!!! HARD CORE!!!
I love the way you are presenting the different sections and the photos rule!

definitively a simple construction and VERY CLEAN lines skiff... I've been looking at your photos for the past HOUR! and its really cool.

Thanks for sharing ... im getting closer to deciding to build my skiff instead of purchasing (I was a carpenter for 11 years in Puerto Rico).
So far i see that tools are simple and the skiff"jig" easy to build thanks again.


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## Brett

*Hull specs*

The plan dimensions I came up with are:
15' long more or less (depends on bow rake when I finally decide)
48 inches wide at gunnel, 42 inches at deck/bottom, 
16-1/2" gunnel to bottom, Hull weight 200 to 250 depending on thickness of plywood to be used on casting decks. I need to jump up and down on some test lumber with the same frame spacing to see how rigid a deck I need. Tunnel is an experiment. Decided to go with a rectangular box as I don't think my top speed with a 5hp Nissan is going to produce any suction in the pocket. Typical wake peak at 12 mph is about 5' from the rear of a standard flat bottom hull. So I set the front of the tunnel 4-1/2 feet forward of the vertical centerline of the engines driveshaft. This should set the prop just under the wake peak. Also with a rectangular pocket I can build and test any pocket shape I can fabricate with foam and glass and fasten temporarily into the box tunnel. Draft should be 4" with 2 people on board (thats the reason for the 4" height of tunnel) Displacement with a 4" draft calculates out to 600 lbs. Each additional inch of draft adds 250 lbs of displacement. At 6" displacement would be 1100 lbs.


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## noeettica

..WOW that is Awsome... The Saiisfaction when fish out of her...

I am bulding a Tiny house for the same reason 

Here is A Simalar craft That is available (probibly Smaller)


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## costefishnt

bravo. I can not wait to see finished project.


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## HaMm3r

Cool...it's looking great so far.


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## stickwaver

This looks like a fun project! Thanks for sharing- can't wait to see the finished boat!


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## fishgitr

LOOKS GREAT!!! Great job will stay tuned for finished product.


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## iMacattack

Great post! Thanks for sharing with our community. Can't wait to see it progress!

Cheers


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## Cracka

That looks great Brett, well done mate, can't wait to see it in the water.

Mick.


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## Caretaker

Great presentation! Love the details of the pix and captions. I admire those of you with the patience to build something like this. It should certainly be a great project to look back on when complete.


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## Brett

This is what I use as a plan. Drawn on a cadd program I found on the web. It shows a general shape and size but
final placement and dimensions of components are subject to change at any time. Modifications are based on how things look. This is the advantage of building a hull upright. You can see how it looks as you build. And you can test how your tackle, safety equipment, and other odds and ends will fit before the hull is complete. I've had boats that looked great from the outside but the storage was poorly thought out.
This way I can see how my rods will fit in the racks, where the life jackets will be stowed, where the fire extinguisher will hang and how the landing net can be put away without getting tangled in rodtips or reel handles. I can get an idea, build it from cardboard and the handymans all purpose fastener (duct-tape), place it in the hull and look at how it fits and decide if it works. Using drywall screws to fasten hull components together allows me to assemble the entire boat before getting involved with epoxy. The screw holes will be filled with epoxy before I glass the hull. What little epoxy work I've done in assembling the scarf joints and pocket tunnel has taught me one important rule: If you're getting dirty, you're doing it wrong! When it becomes time to epoxy the hull together I want the work area sawdust free, no scraps of wood or tools out. I want room to move and time to do the job right. Right now Florida is entering the hurricane season and if one comes my way, all the hull parts are numbered and in half an hour with my electric drill/screwdriver, my garage has room for both cars and all the wood is flat against the wall. Construction-deck too. As for keeping my salt level up, took a 6 a.m. trip with Capt. Brian Clancy out of the Mosquito Lagoon Fishcamp and spent the morning playing tug-of-war with enough slot sized reds to make my arms sore the next day. Sunrise was gorgeous as usual,
and the sound of the surf on the other side of the island made me glad I'm a flats fisherman. Pictures of work to date are posted at:
< http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco >


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## Brett

Getting to the point where I needed to know what the regulations are that the Coast Guard has for people that build their own. There are all sorts of regulations regarding bouyancy, tipping, loading, passengers. Went webbing and found this link:
< http://files.dnr.state.mn.us/education_safety/safety/boatwater/backyardboatbuilders.pdf >

For those of you who might want to read what the rules are regarding
procedures for determining the numbers for your project.
I now have a front deck for the Grass Slipper. The temperature in the garage was mid 90's. Those stains on the plywood are sweat drops.


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## cal1320

Thanks for the link. Lots of info there. The boat looks good. Keep posting the pics.


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## flytieguy

I have a question Brett... why the gunnels so wide... :-? i believe that a 3 to 4 inch wide gunnel should be more than enough to maintain the inner buckling to a minimum or eliminated altoghether.
Plus you will be hampering available inside space.


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## Brett

I'm going with the wider gunnel caps at this time because I can always cut more off, but it's a real pain to put more on after it's already cut. After I get them cut to width I'll tape them in place and post the pics for further comments. If I have enough scrap left over from the first cut I can make a set of smaller caps to try out.
Also, with a flat bottom skiff I want to keep passengers walking down the center of the hull to maintain stability. 48" wide at gunnel less 17" of gunnel caps leaves 31" of walkway down cockpit. And one more reason was in a test fit of rods and reels, the wider cap kept me from bumping into reel handles. I normally carry 1 thumb-burner, 2 ultralight spinning, 2 light spinning and 1 flyrod. Getting them all clear of traffic is important. My last skiff left things hanging in the way and more than once a rod got kicked loose or someone caught a lure in the cuff. How wide is the cockpit in a gheenoe?


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## Brett

Have received questions from a few of the people looking at the
pics of the Glass Slipper comparing it to:

a flatiron skiff: < http://www.duckworksbbs.com/plans/jim/qt_skiff/index.htm >

a Westport skiff: < http://www.projo.com/business/content/bz_skiffs_12_08-12-07_9S6LLNJ.2afcbd0.html >

a Mummichog: < http://home.earthlink.net/~woodzowl/index.html >

a Lumberyard skiff: < http://www.oldwharf.com/ow_building20lys.html >

an Indian River Skiff: < http://www.bateau.com/proddetail.php?prod=D15 >

a crab alley skiff: < http://www.craballeycustomboats.com/ >

They asked "Why build some thing so similar?".
The answer is, I looked at images of all the plywood skiffs
I could find on the web. After about the 100th pic you realise that
when it comes to plywood skiffs, builders have to work within the
limitations of 4x8 sheets of lumber. Its flexibilty is limited.
But for ease and speed of construction with simple tooling
it's hard to beat. Once the hull is assembled, the interior can be
customized with straight cut lumber. And cheaply at that.
Most boats I've owned depreciated about a thousand dollars a year.
I buy one, clean it up, fix all the problems, rig it to my tastes,
and then when everything is just right, I get bored, sell it and
start looking for "next". (That ended up being the name of one of my boats)
This way, for the cost of depreciation, I can have a new toy every few years.
And if I break it or scratch the finish I don't get heart palpitations like
I would if I had one of the new breed of high tech-high dollar super skiffs
that are out now. A plywood skiff built right is as lightweight as a
kevlar or carbon fiber skiff.

The next question is "Why only 5hp?".
Simple, I fish the "ditch". The Intracoastal Waterway has A-1-A
on the east side and US1 on the other. Its faster, easier and more
comfortable to put the boat back on the trailer and drive to the next ramp.
Plus safer, those privately owned cruise ships create their own tsunamis
as they cruise the ICW. Also most inshore areas are now no wake or manatee
zones. Can't go fast anyways.

And the last question "Isn't a flat bottom boat going to pound your kidneys out?".
It would if I felt the need for speed. Even so, being an inshore fisherman
I can always launch and fish the upwind shore and stay out of the chop.
And I really don't motor very far. I've found some excellent oyster creeks
and grassy flats within a mile or two of every ramp I've used along the ICW.
Fishing the "ditch" does have it's advantages.


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## flytieguy

dude every time i read one of your posts... its like exactly what i am thinking regarding my fishing needs... plus I DO NOT have the $$$$ to spend in technical skiffs... 
I think this is going to be my winter project here in Orlando...


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## Brett

Better project in the summer, build in the evenings, too hot
to fish days, winter fishing is more enjoyable because you
start later in the day, after the water warms up on the flats.


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## Brett

I have been informed by my daughter (wanna be engineer-marine architect)
to think about the width of the gunnel caps. Since she's spent her whole life
on the water and I, only most of my life, I'll listen to her. Others have expressed
a similar opinion. I'm not in a rush, so I'll hold on the gunnel caps for a few days
and think about the widths. In the meantime the guys from the flyfishing forum
offered their advice. Now I have inexpensive and easy to install rod tip tubes.

see the pics < http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/BuildingTheGrassSlipper >

What's your opinion on the gunnel width's?


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## B.Lee

Ilike your idea on the rod tubes, those should work great.

As for teh gunwale caps, I follow your thinking about the width, but I think the wider caps give the boat a cramped, claustrophobic look. Open the boat up a bit and trim them back some. 

On second thought, maybe just trimming them back so they are parallel with the sides, so they follow the same shape of the hull. That would give it a whole different look, and you could still have a wide gunnel.

Looks great so far, I can't wait to see the finished product!

-Brian


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## Brett

Hi Brian,
thanks for the comment, take a look at bowview of gunnel caps,
4th image from last, remember that there are 2 pieces of 6" wide plywood,
keeping the gunnels straight, clamped to the outside. Very light colored.
The gunnel caps are a darker plywood and are cut curved parallel
to the gunnel lines, 8-1/2 inches wide. Same thing in the 3rd from the
last, stern view gunnel caps. Eyeball that and imagine the brace
plywoods not there...Is that what you're looking for?


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## B.Lee

I didn't go far enough through your pics, I must have stopped at the one with the square marking your cut line. I guess I got sidetracked.

The more I look at it, the more I like the gunwales as you have them now. It's not too cramped. They would make a good seat too. Are they going to be strong enough to walk on? I would imagine that rig will be plenty stable.

-Brian


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## Brett

I don't know if walking on them will be feasible. Flat bottom skiffs are best
when the weight is kept centered. Although, I had a 18' Alumacraft flat bottom
that I used to stand on the seats with my toes at the gunnels and I was fine.
We'll both find out when I test launch the empty hull and try to sink/flip it.
That ought to be a fun morning. As for strength I still have to fit the inside
structural edge. A strip of 3/8"x2-1/2" fir. With that and the frames being
on 22" centers they ought to be fine for sitting on when glued and glassed.


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## Brett

Sawdust was getting thick, scrap lumber getting in the way. Must be Tidy Friday.
Maintenance on power tools, sharpened and cleaned hand tools.
Put away almost everything. Cleared out the debris. Leaned on the hull.
Sat in it. Stood in it. Still can't decide on the gunnels or the shear line. No rush.
Wouldn't be hard to drop the shear line 2 inches. 







 
Hewes made an economy flats skiff during the last recession.
Anyone remember the model name? I think I've just built a 3/4 scale version
with a pocket tunnel.
< http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/BuildingTheGrassSlipper >


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## Brett

Ran the numbers per Coast Guard requirements.
I can put up to 10 hp on the Grass Slipper.
Carry 4 people. Max load is 690 lb. Requires 7.5 cubic feet of floatation.
The hull because it is plywood already counts as 3 cubic feet of floatation.
I've purchased 216 lbs of plywood
(digital bathroom scale, holding a couple of sheets at a time)
1 sheet 4x8x3/8, 4 sheets 4x4x1/4, 2 sheets 4x8x1/2, 1 sheet 2x4x3/4
I haven't subtracted the scraps and sawdust I've thrown away
but I'd guess the hull at this time weighs in at 200 lbs.
Going to be real easy to launch, even at the sand ramps.
Easy to tow, even with a small car.

Getting close to finishing the wood work. A few more 
braces and some furring strips and I'll be ready to start with epoxy.
When completed I'm going to need to title and register the hull.
This is the link to Floridas regulations:

< http://www.flhsmv.gov/dmv/vslfacts.html >


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## flytieguy

Question Brett...
I've read in many articles that flat bottom skiff "slide" when taking a turn... obviously grass slipper is a flat bottom skiff ... are u going to approach this issue at all?


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## Brett

Sliding in turns doesn't bother me. 3 boats back I was running
around in a Kenner 15' Pro skiff. Had a 35hp Evinrude jet outboard
on the back. The skiff had a 4" full tunnel so the intake of the pump was
above the bottom of the hull. Was great for fishing the skinny waters
out front at Flamingo. Ran so shallow, one of the rangers stopped to
to tell me to avoid several islands and a couple of bays that normally
only the park service airboats could get to. To steer it was just like
an airboat, start your turn a second or two before you needed to turn.
Better than a airboat though, you could stop easily at full throttle
by shifting thrust to reverse. The Grass Slipper has a prop and skeg
that hang 5" below the bottom of the hull, this with the pocket tunnel
will stop a lot of the slippage. Also, It's only a 5hp motor. If I was running
a 15hp I'd be more worried. No boat does everything perfectly.
My priority is to float as shallow as possible. My canoe with only me and my gear
draws 4". The only way to float that shallow is a large, flat,
unobstructed surface area. Skegs, keels, fins, trim surfaces all add to the
depth needed to float. I want to be able to slide over the seagrasses, (Grass Slipper)
without tearing them up, when I'm going the last 500 feet to where the fish are.
I think what the writers of the articles are talking about are hard fast turns.
Under those conditions most small boats can get into trouble.
I'm keeping the weight down, the horsepower down, and the speed
at which I'll operate, down. The chances of slippage in steering the boat
seriously affecting my day are very small. I've got a better chance of slipping
at the ramp when I launch. (been there-done that-got the slime stains to prove it)


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## iMacattack

Thanks for the plug on your website!

-------------









*An inexpensive flyrod tip tube. Thanks to the flyfishing forum members at microskiff.com*


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## flytieguy

thanks... im already budgeting for the materials... can u supply a BOM.. as per today?
I'm fast becoming the #1 of the "Grass Slipper".


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## Brett

Materials used to date:

4-2"x6"x16' joists
2-sheets 3/4"x4x8 floor underlayment
1-box 3" coarse thread drywall screws
1-box 2" coarse thread drywall screws
1-box 1" fine thread drywall screws
1-quart MAS FLAG epoxy
1-pint MAS medium hardener
1-quart MAS milled fiber
1 package 2 part 5 minute epoxy (8oz for quick and simple jobs)
2-sheets 1/2"x4x8 exterior plywood
4-sheets 1/4"x4x8 exterior luan
1-sheet  3/4"x2x4 exterior plywood
4-laths  1"x2"x8' clear pine
5-sheets of 100 grit sandpaper
5-sheets of 60 grit sandpaper
5-60 grit sanderbelts
2-packages nitrile gloves
1 box waxed paper
1 #2 pencil
3 bandaids

Time spent so far: 82 hours in garage
(includes cleanup, thinking, adjusting, tool maintenance)

I've been keeping a build log.

Tools I didn't have that I purchased that made the job easier:

Electric hand planer to make a clean, neat scarf joint

Small band saw, worth the $106.00 for so many of the small cuts
that would have been irritating but not hard with a jigsaw

Note: Irritating the guys at the lumber store sorting through plywood
  to find sheets without voids. Priceless!

pics at < http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/BuildingTheGrassSlipper >


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## flytieguy

LOL!!!
My Lowes shopping list this weekend... My wife is going to think im nuts...!!! LOL
thanks brett... finally a new twist in my hobby (i tye my flies now im building my boat !!!)yesss!!!!


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## Brett

One of the guys in South Dade has figured it out.

He emailed me: 
"I found the website, saw the historical pics, compared it 
to what you're building, You scaled up a sawgrass skiff
and put a motor on it!"

< http://ibistro.dos.state.fl.us/uhtbin/cgisirsi/x/x/0/5?library=PHOTO&item_type=PHOTOGRAPH&searchdata1=Saw-grass >

He's right. I grew up in West Dade when SW 117 Ave 
was the end of civilization. A lot of people hunted and fished
in areas that are now houses. I saw many versions of the Simmons
sawgrass skiff built out of plywood or cypress planks in the back of
pickups. They were a lot of fun to play in then, and I hope the
Grass Slipper works out as well, today.


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## fishgazam

very cool, cant wait for more pix!

AC


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## Brett

I started out posting these pics so I wouldn't have to keep emailing
family members with updates. Then as a link to interested forum members.
This is getting bizzare. Went online last night to copy... er, research ideas
and solutions that other builders have comeup with. Plugged "plywood skiffs"
into google image search and so many of you have been to my pic site that
the number of hits has put it on page 2 in search rankings. You have no idea
how bizzare it was to be "researching" and run into my own stuff. I had no clue 
so many would find what I'm doing interesting. I appreciate it, Brett


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## flytieguy

my friend... believe me... its ground breaking... a very simple skiff for hard core anglers and in a budget?!! LMAO!!! ;D
unheard of...!!! i personally have sent your link to at least 40 friends and they have gone crazy over the great quality of work and simple explanation ... I know for sure they have forwarded that link !!!

Great project!!! and definitively please dont take that album down ever!!!


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## TomFL

Inspirational to say the least. Looking forward with anticipation to see it complete.

-T


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## flyfshrmn82

Sweet job. Keep us all informed with your progress, and hurry up and finish it already.


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## Brett

Hurry up and finish it?  ;D  I've learned an important lesson regarding
boats and fishing over the years. Always stop while you still want to
do more! My garage temps even in the evenings run 85° plus. If I
went at this like it was a job and being paid for it, I'd be looking for
another job. I always stop while I'm still having fun, not when
I've gotten miserable. That way I'm looking forward to the next chance
I have to get back to the water or the boat. Plus, being an amateur,
I have had to learn an awful lot regarding hull reinforcement.
The Grass Slipper is not a fiberglass shell that I can drop parts into
and hide the mistakes with a couple of layers of glass and still have a safe hull.
We're talking 1/4" exterior luan that with very little effort I can bust
a hole through. I had no idea that wood boatbuilders had so many names
for so many small pieces of wood. But every piece serves an important function.
I thought I was just going to glue things together and slap some glass
on it and be ready to go. Instead I learned the reasons for every structure
that other builders installed. Between a couple hours each evening in the garage,
and an hour researching on line I have really enjoyed this project so far.
I don't recommend it if your priority is getting on the water. For me this is a
jigsaw puzzle, that when I finish I can actually use, not bust up and put back in the box.
Yesterday I learned what a quarter knee was, why it's needed and where it goes.

More pics:
< http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/BuildingTheGrassSlipper >


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## deerfly

I always joke around about how long projects like these really take, which is usually 2-3 times longer than your initial estimates. First timers typically get the biggest shock and not everyone is wired up to take on these kinds of projects either. I think to be successful you have to enjoy the journey as much or maybe even more as the outcome itself.


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## Gramps

Brett,

I love the album and all of the information you are providing during the build! Have you ever been over to forums.bateau2.com ? (Sorry if linking another site is a no no Mod's) There is tons and tons of information on boat building & they sell plans and materials to build.

My plan is to build an FS18 soon, been reading a lot about the techniques and such. I can't wait to see your finished rig. And completely agree with the stop while having fun mentality.


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## Brett

I looked at all the plans at bateau, you can see the resemblance to FS14.
But I wanted a little bit different. I remember sawgrass skiffs that my neighbor
had, built out of planks, plywood, sheet metal and roofing tar. They were simple and light.
Wide open and easy to drag through the glades. Usually we weren't actually in them,
unless the water was too deep to wade across. For carrying gear or bringing home
fish or game they were the blue collar canoe of the 50's and 60's. I just widened it,
added some comforts, safety features, and luxuries. (flyrod racks, what were those?)
For what I do most of the plan skiffs are overkill. Besides, when I'm done it's one of a kind.
If you really want to get esoteric on construction techniques try searching "wooden skiffs"
or "plywood skiffs" on google images, it'll take you around the world. The pro's really
provide a lot of info just in the sales pictures and preview plans.
(18' is too big for my garage, rule #1 in trailer boats: buy/build the biggest boat that fits
easily in the garage while on the trailer!)


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## Brett

Got an email asking me to explain walking through sawgrass dragging a skiff, with the alligators
and water moccasins, without bleeding to death or being bitten. Walking through sawgrass is
a learned skill. No fast motions. You don't go around the clump, you step on it. As a foot swings
forward, the toes are pointed slightly inwards. As  the outside edge of the foot makes contact
with the edge of the clump, toes are swung slightly outwards which pushes the top of the clump
down and away. No cuts, no scrapes. Of course this is done in long pants and long sleeves.
In sawgrass areas open water means deeper water. Stepping on the sawgrass kept you from
sinking into the mud and losing your sneakers, which kept Dad from whomping your but.
In the 50's and 60's there was no such thing as a nuisance alligator. There were cute little
alligators and ones that were big enough to eat. When a gator heard you coming it disappeared,
waited till you were gone, then went back to whatever it was doing. Man was the danger to a gator,
not the other way around. Water moccassins rarely were a problem, only if you surprised one
or got between it and water if it was on the bank. I worked as a land surveyor in South Florida
for over 25 years. Spent lots of time waist deep or better in the Everglades retracing old government
surveys. I've still got all my fingers and toes and very few scars. What we worried about most in the
glades was the heat, and the bugs. There are wasp and hornets nests in the sawgrass and
other vegetation and you never saw them untill it was too late. Very hard to run in mud and sawgrass.
Dragging a skiff is the fastest way to get through the sawgrass unless you have an airboat
or a buggy. We didn't. Poling through sawgrass takes forever, it's easier to walk.

Afterthought: We called it swamp stompin or slough sloggin


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## Un-shore

> (Sorry if linking another site is a no no Mod's)


 [smiley=cloud.gif] *HOW DARE YOU!* [smiley=angry4.gif] *YOU ARE BANNED!* [smiley=computermad.gif]


;D 
Seriously,
No problem as far as I know. There is not another site as specialized as this one and we gravitate here for our own reasons. Nothing is wrong with information gathering. 

Just don't come crawling back here late at night smelling like booze and floozies!


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## flytieguy

Actually one of the things I am really loving of this site is the fact that more and more forum members are posting info about microskiffs and mod and brands other than Gheenoe... (hey... dont get me wrong i've been in a lt15 a couple of times and I love it) ... still the fact that Brett selected this forum as the "HOME" forum for the skiff he is building and the input from others about other mods and brands... goes to show... THIS PLACE RULES~! [smiley=1-thumbsup1.gif]


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## Bob

> Just don't come crawling back here late at night unless you smell like booze and floozies!


Fixed it for ya!!


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## Gramps

Haha thanks Bob! Thought I was in trouble there for a minute... 


Brett, any idea what the boat will draft? (Or did I miss that info somewhere...) Weight?


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## Brett

Check back to page 1 replies 4 and 13

I probably won't be getting much done next couple weeks.
Daughter starts UF, I'll be watching a lot of TV


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## Brett

Daughter is at UF, Olympics over, Fay gone.
Yard picked up, got enough pine cones and deadfalls
to roast marshmellows every day for a month.
Back to the build. Very little woodwork left.
Figured out epoxy fillets. Wasted a little epoxy
figuring out the ratios to make the right texture
to keep the fillet from sagging. Got to order glass.
Any questions, post 'em. I won't be watching TV with
the computer running, like during the Olympics, 
so I won't be all over the forum.
Did enjoy being a wisea** for a while.
Pics as usual at:

< http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/BuildingTheGrassSlipper >


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## B.Lee

Looking real good Brett. I'm really enjoying watching the build progress. Probably about 3% as much anjoyment as you get actually doing the work though. I can't wait to see the final product!

Are you planning on glassing the entire boat, or painting it?


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## Brett

Gonna glass most everything structural.
If I had used marine plywood this would not be necessary.
However no place nearby carried m-ply, and shipping costs
and times made it cheaper to glass than wait. If I really wanted
this boat to last I would have used m-ply and would have only had
to glass the seams and the bottom. Since I only need a couple of
years use to justify this hull, cheap and fast, with extra glass was
the way to go. This hull is more about learning the process. I
already have my next boat to build in my imagination. Even a few
sketches, 1 man skiff with a 2hp air cooled engine, the "Pole Cat."


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## Guest

> Just don't come crawling back here late at night unless you smell like booze and floozies!
> 
> 
> 
> Fixed it for ya!!
Click to expand...


OK, so you fixed it, but are you done yet?


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## Brett

Here's what the Grass Slipper looks like this afternoon:










Finished sanding rack-frames, getting ready to start final assembly.
I disassembled the hull down to its parts and pieces.
Then using a digital bathroom scale weighed the parts as groups:

1/2" thick deck and tunnel 54.2 lbs
bulkheads/knees/frames,braces 35.4 lbs
1/4" thick gunnel caps and hull sides 30.6 lbs
3/4" transom and 3/8" front-rear decks 36.2 lbs
PVC tip tubes and electric conduit 8.4 lbs

Total weight of wood and pvc 164.8 lbs.

An aluminum jon boat 15'X42" weighs 210 lbs and it doesn't come
with a tunnel, casting decks and underdeck storage.

Should be interesting to see what the weight difference will be
after epoxy and glass work is complete.

pics as usual:
< http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/BuildingTheGrassSlipper >


----------



## B.Lee

Great pictures as usual. again, I'm enjoying watching the build greatly. Your attention to detail is incredible. Very fine handywork my friend! The tips and tricks are good too, like sandwiching the final cut piece between scraps for a clean hole.


----------



## snooknreds2

> Great pictures as usual. again, I'm enjoying watching the build greatly. Your attention to detail is incredible. Very fine handywork my friend! The tips and tricks are good too, like sandwiching the final cut piece between scraps for a clean hole.



instead of sandwiching the piece between two scarp piece, use a spade blade (not sure if that is what it is called) and start the hole from one side and just take away one to two plys. Then flip over and drill the rest of the way through. this guarantees that the wood does not splinter


----------



## Brett

That technique with a speedbore works fine if the
workpiece is more than 5/8" thick, but when dealing with 1/4"
plywood theres just not enough meat to keep the speedbore
centered. It starts to dance and wobble. The sandwich trick
solves it.


----------



## snooknreds2

> That technique with a speedbore works fine if the
> workpiece is more than 5/8" thick, but when dealing with 1/4"
> plywood theres just not enough meat to keep the speedbore
> centered. It starts to dance and wobble. The sandwich trick
> solves it.



Never tried 1/4 but it you are right, it would not work. 
Brett where do you live? It seams like you and I should meet up and discuss our projects. I think That we could share allot of information and learn some tricks from each other.


----------



## Brett

Palm Coast, Fl. 30 miles North of Daytona
BTW you're right, the tool is called a spade blade,
the original brand name was speedbore.
Old habits. Happy to answer questions re: boats,
fishing, motors, whatever....
Plenty of time, epoxy is hardening.


----------



## thresher

It's getting closer and closer Brett.  I am really excited for ya!  Especially since I got to meet you in person and talk shop (well, I listened while you talked shop!  ).  I am still looking forward to us getting her bloody in the basin.  Ha - that'll be our t-shirt logo 

"Bloody in the Basin!"


----------



## Brett

If you ask for an opinion from an opinionated old coot,
you get what you asked for.
              

As for "bloody in the basin",
I've seen the Tomoka flats at low tide.
Better shirt would be:

*Muddy in the Basin*


----------



## Brett

Almost finished with the epoxy priming of the hull components.
Fiberglass was ordered from a website on Monday, UPS has it
in transit, should be delivered on Friday. Dry plywood absorbs
a lot of epoxy. the epoxy soaks in just like a first coat
of varnish. While the epoxy prime coats cure I'm fabricating
my filleting tools. I hope to start assembly next week.

Pics still at:

< http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/BuildingTheGrassSlipper# >


----------



## Brett

Learned a very nasty lesson yesterday.
Do not mix very small amounts of epoxy!
In very small amounts it's too easy to get
the proportions wrong. Mix it wrong and the
epoxy doesn't harden. There is no easy fix!
The epoxy would not harden, it just got gummy.
Every other batch I've mixed from the two epoxy
bottles hardened no problem. The error was too
small an amount to get the mix right. Had to dig
the gummy mess out of the joint bit by bit.
Gave serious thought to rebuilding the transom.
Kept picking at it and got it cleaned out.
Fiberglass arrived, ordered and delivered in 4 days.
Assembly under way. Had to split the pics into
2 albums. IE7 browsers were getting a stack error
when viewing the pics on Vista operating systems.

To see the pics:

< http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco >


----------



## costefishnt

looking good man. cant wait to see final product....


----------



## deerfly

yer a better man than me for taking the time and effort to photo document the whole process to the level of detail that you have. Super kudos for that. 

OK, now with that said, get the stinking thing finished already and bring it to the rally in 2 weeks.


----------



## Brett

> Posted by: deerfly
> get the stinking thing finished already
> and bring it to the rally in 2 weeks.


You're an optimist aren't you.
I'm lucky to get a few hours each day to work on the boat.
Between work, honey-do's, kid and dogs (couple of walker hounds)
They leave me with just enough time to set up,
accomplish, and clean up a portion of the project each day.
That's the reason for the number of photo's. Plenty of daily
interruptions to the build that fit in with the completion
of a particular piece of the boat.
Only takes a few secs to snap a pic.

< http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco >


----------



## deerfly

of course I'm just messin' with ya. I've done enough "projects" over the years to know everything takes a lot longer than you first estimated and ends up costing more too. With most every one of them you have to fight the urge to rush through it or surely you'll either mess something up and have to re do it or you'll regret some outcome, no one else may know it but you, but you'll surely regret it just the same. 

Your project is really intriguing though, I hope it inspires a few others to take on something similar and post about it too.


----------



## Un-shore

Amazing Brett, simply amazing.


----------



## TomFL

Dangit Brett, will you please finish that thing.... I'm dying to see a finished shot over here!!!!!

The suspense is killing me. 

I vote for no more posts for Brett till he's done with the slipper!!!   

-T


----------



## Brett

> Posted by: TomFL
> Dangit Brett, will you please finish that thing.... I'm dying to see a finished shot over here!!!!!
> 
> The suspense is killing me.
> 
> I vote for no more posts for Brett till he's done with the slipper!!!


What, you thought this was a democracy?
One man, one vote?
I don't think so.
More like one boat, one vote!
I've got 4 if you include my bathtub soap.  

I'm trying to get 'er done.
For a first time epoxificator (new word, just made it up)
I'm not doing half bad.
Filleting with epoxy is not hard, but it does eat up time.
Have to wait between sections so as not to make it sag.
The stuff acts like wet concrete. It stays put until
vibrations hit it, then it slumps. 

As to the time it's taking, everyone else has cheated!
They got to start with a boat and modify it.
I got to start with a concrete floor and
a pile of plywood. I'm modifying a pile of plywood
into something that looks like a boat.

                      ;D 

As for posting, I have to have something to
do while waiting for epoxy to set.

As usual with the pics:

< http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco >


----------



## Brett

Fiberglass being applied daily. Probably flip the hull next week.
Trailer ordered. Once the exterior of the hull is glassed
and hull on the trailer, I'll be done with the construction base.
If you have use for the construction base PM me to arrange pickup.

pics still at:

< http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco >


----------



## Cracka

Great job Brett, I check on your progress every day.  Looks like it's coming along nicely, a nice and clean build, I cant wait to see how she looks finished and on the water.

Mick


----------



## Brett

Thanks for the comments Mick. You're not the only one that
wants to see it in the water. My own family members are nagging
me, as well as a few individuals here. I'm enjoying the
build process, have learned a great deal about wood boats and
why boats cost so much when purchased from a dealer or builder.
My time has added up rapidly looking back at my build log. I look
forward to getting in the garage every day. Maybe more than I
enjoy fishing. Would I do this again? Definitely. It's surprising
how easy it is to convert plywood to boat using minimal power tools,
and epoxy with fiberglass.



pics:
< http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco >


----------



## deerfly

have you got to the point yet where you realize there's no such thing as having too many clamps?


----------



## Brett

Rub it in DF, pour a little lemon juice in the open wound.
Drag your fingernails down the chalkboard. You're having
way too much fun backseat building. Did you like my visegrip
comments on the cockpit combing reinforcing pic?
I deserve every prod ya'll send my way. Keeps me out
in the garage gettin' 'er done.

                                   ;D

still posting pics:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco


BTW, how's the mitchell coming along, hmmmm?   

Wouldn't mind seeing a few more pics from that too...


----------



## deerfly

wasn't rubbing it in bro, just laughing with you when I see the pic's with all the clamps in them. I've probably got 30-40 of them accumulated over the years in various sizes and never seem to have enough of a particular size when I need them.  

btw, the wife says the Mitchell is on hold until I finish the kitchen cabinets. :


----------



## Brett

> From deerfly:
> btw, the wife says the Mitchell is on hold until I finish the kitchen cabinets


With huntin' season around the corner,
what're the chances of the cabinets being done by Thanksgiving?


----------



## Brett

I've been informed by PM that it's time to update my post...

The saga continues, one man's effort to modify a pile
of plywood, into a usable boat from which to chase fish.
To boldly float, where I've never been able to float before.
I have gotten out and waded, but that doesn't count.
                             
                                    


the Slipper has been a little on edge lately:












Fiberglass has been applied to the interior, and the exterior of the
hull is underway. Epoxy is an interesting technology. Learning the
tricks are simply a matter of jumping on line and google-ing the
heck out of every question I come up with. The pro's have already
been there and done that, and posted the info.
I just had to do a little hunting.

Here are the links to the pics, 3 folders worth:

The beginning:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/BuildingTheGrassSlipper


The middle:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/GrassSlipperContinued


And what should be the end:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/FinishingTheGrassSlipper

btw, click on the small images in the folders and they reload as
larger images with the captions easier to read...
previous and next image buttons above the larger images


----------



## tom_in_orl

Nobody [smiley=paranoid.gif]











Looks Tippy [smiley=rollinglaugh.gif]


----------



## madsnook

What power are you going to go with? I wish i had your skills...if i tried to do what you are doing..it would look like a 3rd grader did it...pretty work man...look forward to seeing the finished product.


----------



## Brett

That 5 hp nissan in the pics is the engine I'm using.
No wake and manatee zones everywhere in Palm Coast area.
Difficult to build? Not at all, patience is how to complete
a project like this. I am only an interested amateur, not a pro.
I work one piece at a time, do it right-do it once,
do it wrong-do it twice. A mistake on one piece, only ruins one piece.
I used my mistakes as firewood. A mistake is not a bad thing, just
teaches you something that you didn't know before. Building the
Grass Slipper is not a hard thing to do, what was hard was getting
over the worry about screwing up, of trying something different.
Anyone can build a boat using epoxy, fiberglass and plywood.
Just have to be willing to spend 6 months, a couple of hours each day,
working on one part a a time. After what I've learned so far,
a cartopper john boat built out of cheap 1/4" plywood would be easy.
And would take about a month to do. A stretch frame hull even
less time. Just have to decide to give it a try, it's really not hard.
Using the construction base with exterior bracing, and building the
hull upright, allows me to try things...see how it looks...use it...
or try something else instead. With the hull in the upright position
I can see how it looks and tell if I'm doing something wrong.
I try out different ideas without permanent results. I've spent a lot of
evenings eating popsicles or sipping coffee in the garage,
thinking about what the boat should look like. There have been
more than 20 different layouts of the Slipper. This final one is the
one that looks right, and feels right.

Give it a try, build your own, just for the hull of it...


----------



## redbone

Hello Brett

I looked at what you did and I hope its going well.  I can see you put a lot of thought into the layout inside.  Your really doing a great job on What looks like a perfect Flats boat for Thousand Island Snooking.  Even for skinny water do you have a couple of inches that you can stick a 2" D x1-1/2" W  by 3 or 4' keel in front of the tunnel ?  It won't take much to slow the slip.  
I am working on my 1900 test skiff to add a casting deck to the front and rear.  Hope to get back to Fla to fish this winter.  Will look forward to talking with you. good luck  
And thanks for the link..


----------



## Brett

Hey Crab Alley, I do like your hulls, classic Chesapeake crab skiff
lines using todays materials and technology. Very nice!

Thought about keels and skegs.
Really want to keep it shallow.
North Mosquito Lagoon has some areas where
an inch makes a difference in where you can go.
Kenner made a tunnel skiff a few years back.
Flat bottom, 4" tunnel, the Pro-skiff series.
No skeg or keel. Bought the 15' model.
Great little boat. I had no worries with tracking.
The tunnel kept it in line. Inverted keel.
Plus with only 5 hp, slippage at speed is not a worry.
If I ever go to larger horsepower I would drop a pair
of fiberglass skegs along the port and starboard sides
of the pocket tunnel. My neighbor the surfer, who thinks
I've built a longboard with sides, keeps saying "twin fin".
The skegs would be an easy fabrication and would epoxy
directly to the existing vertical faces of the pocket.


----------



## redbone

Re: Start from scratch
Reply #29 - Jul 28th, 2008, 9:41pm 

Thanks Found the answer to my own Question 

did not look deep enough


----------



## pescador72

Phenomenal project Brett!!!


----------



## Brett

Just like the bug said right before it hit the windshield: "Oooooh shiny!"       

Exterior hull glass complete, gloss coats done.
Flipped the hull back upright again,
and now undusting the garage.
Dust everywhere, hauled most stuff outside to 
clean off with compressed air. What a mess.
Now to finish the decks and interior.
More sanding, gluing and glassing.
Also a change in the tip tube assembly.
More pics to come.

Here are the links to the pics, 3 folders worth:

The beginning:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/BuildingTheGrassSlipper


The middle:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/GrassSlipperContinued


And what should be the end:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/FinishingTheGrassSlipper

Don't forget, click on the small images in the folders
and they reload as larger images with the captions easier to read...
previous and next image buttons above the larger images


----------



## Gramps

Looks awfully darn good! That first oyster is gonna hurt so good!


----------



## Kemo

Brett - Where's all that stuff I usually see on the right side of the Slipper, in the garage?   

Great work, my friend.  Just great! 

Kemo


----------



## Brett

Dust buster, that's what I was this afternoon.
All the assorted stuff displaced by the build,
and piled to the right of the hull,
moved outside, took almost 3 hours to clean off.
Even compressed air wouldn't remove all the epoxy dust.
Needed an old towel and small broom to knock the dust off.
Even dry that stuff sticks. 
Best part was, neighbor downwind,
just washed his car.....

                


I'm so easily entertained...


----------



## ht

Hey Brett it's looking fantastic! I have a few quick questions regarding your tunnel and maybe you could let me know why you designed it the way you did. 

1. Why did you decide to keep the tunnel "square" in shape/design? (Referring to the 'start' of the tunnel closest to the bow of the boat.) 

2. Is that "square" design going to impact or change the performance of the hull?

3. Could you share the dimensions of your tunnel and share how you came up with the measurements you used?

Thank you ahead of time for any information you are willing to share. I am only asking the above questions because I am planning on cutting the bottom of my project hull and I am looking for any input before I begin. Thanks!


----------



## Brett

Good evening backlash
see post:

http://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1221951628/0

Pictures, diagrams, much discussion


also see pic #29 in folder "building the grass slipper",
the caption regarding the tunnel explains much

Here are the links to the pics, 3 folders worth:

The beginning:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/BuildingTheGrassSlipper


The middle:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/GrassSlipperContinued


And what should be the end:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/FinishingTheGrassSlipper

Don't forget, click on the small images in the folders
and they reload as larger images with the captions easier to read...
previous and next image buttons above the larger images


----------



## ht

Thank you for your help and taking the time to post your detailed response!


----------



## HaMm3r

Looking really nice Brett!  I wouldn't want to be onboard the first time you run into a submerged oyster bar and ruin that perfect finish.   With all the high water, I scraped over a couple myself, yesterday.  :


----------



## Brett

Thanks HaMm3r, it's not a perfect finish.
Looks pretty at a distance, but up close you can see the ripples and fiberglass edges.
No dust free paint room in the garage. I fully expect to chew it up.
Sure am glad it's not a new carbon/kevlar tech skiff.
$30k hull getting a ding would cause severe emotional distress.


----------



## B.Lee

Looking good Brett. I like the wood grain look, that would be a tough call, to paint or not to paint?


----------



## Green_Hornet

Gotta go with B Lee here. I think it would look outstanding in stain and varnish. You did beautiful work and you should show it off...like a fine piece of furniture......then chuck it in the water! :'(


----------



## Brett

If ya'll saw the grade of 1/4" luan I used to build this with,
you'd be horrified. This was Homey Depot bargain exterior
luan, an hour to sort through to find clean void free panels.
10 bucks a sheet. It's amazing what clear coat epoxy does,
gives it that depth you see on gloss Mahogany countertops.
I think I'm going to outline the hull in Kelly green, covering the
pencil lines and scarf joints with the non-matching grain, and leave
sections of varnished gloss accent panels like an old woody wagon.
Or more recently the original 15' woody Egret flats skiff.


----------



## HaMm3r

> If ya'll saw the grade of 1/4" luan I used to build this with,
> you'd be horrified. This was Homey Depot bargain exterior
> luan, an hour to sort through to find clean void free panels.
> 10 bucks a sheet. It's amazing what clear coat epoxy does,
> gives it that depth you see on gloss Mahogany countertops.
> I think I'm going to outline the hull in Kelly green, covering the
> pencil lines and scarf joints with the non-matching grain, and leave
> sections of varnished gloss accent panels like an old woody wagon.
> Or more recently the original 15' woody Egret flats skiff.


That sounds like a good idea. It would be nice if you were able to use a really tough, durable, protective paint to help fend off those oyster impacts. Something like Line-x might be too thick though...


----------



## Brett

> HaMm3r offered: It would be nice if you were able to use a really tough, durable, protective paint to help fend off those oyster impacts.


How about something extremely tough that will be easy to repair...

Like a really thick gloss epoxy finish?...


----------



## Kemo

Well, it would be a lot easier to repair. BTW, what do you do if you damage the Line-X? And I'm sure that it _can_ be damaged, no matter how tough it is. I have a nephew who could destroy an anvil in a week............ ;D


----------



## B.Lee

That's what gives it the real character, the fact that it isn't a mohagany boat, but a plywood boat! 

A cool bootstripe would be to leave it woodgrain, paint the hull around it. 

Hell, it's your boat, I'm really just dreaming out loud about building one myself soon.


----------



## Brett

Build it Brian, I want to see the pics...
After learning the process, and all the research I had to go through
to get this far, I came up with an idea for the next guy. Get to the
point where you've flipped the hull. And before applying fiberglass,
add a veneer to the sides of the hull covering all the construction
joints and imperfections in the plywood. Think what a cherry or
blackwalnut veneer would look like with 6 layers of epoxy gloss
coat and 4 layers of polyurethane varnish. That would probably
cause traffic accidents as you trailered it to the ramp. Fine furniture
on the water. Today was spent gloss coating the underdeck
compartments, and learning to flare pvc for tip tubes.


Here are the links to the pics, 4 folders worth:

The beginning:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/BuildingTheGrassSlipper

The middle:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/GrassSlipperContinued

And what should be the end:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/FinishingTheGrassSlipper

And a how to folder:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/TipTubeFlare

Don't forget, click on the small images in the folders
and they reload as larger images with the captions easier to read...
previous and next image buttons above the larger images


----------



## Kemo

That PVC flare job is incredible, Brett! [smiley=cool2.gif]


----------



## HaMm3r

Very inventive pvc flaring technique, Brett! [smiley=1-thumbsup3.gif] That came out looking great.  When I did mine I used a heat gun and a trailer hitch ball, but it was far more difficult than your method appears to be.


----------



## TomFL

So far by reading this post I've learned more neat stuff than "just" how to build a boat from scratch!

Cool stuff in here Brett, it's getting close now!

-T


----------



## Brett

Glad you're enjoying it Tom, it seems for every 3 hours on the build,
a question comes up that I have to go research for an hour. That way
I can make sure the hull is built correctly. Google sure is handy for
hunting down the pro's solutions to build questions. All the underdeck
tubes and pipes are complete. Next is attaching the casting decks.
More thickened epoxy, sanding and fiberglass.

Here are the links to the pics, 4 folders:

The beginning:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/BuildingTheGrassSlipper

The middle:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/GrassSlipperContinued

And what should be the end:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/FinishingTheGrassSlipper

And a how to folder:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/TipTubeFlare

Remember, click on the small images in the folders
and they reload as larger images with the captions easier to read...
previous and next image buttons above the larger images


----------



## oldschool

Super cool skiff


----------



## Brett

Thanks oldschool, cool is the temp in the garage! 42° F  this AM.
The hull is now assembled and one piece. All my scrap lumber is
going to roast some marshmellows tonight. Now I get to sand and
shape the gunnels and the cockpit edges to prepare for the last of
the fiberglass work on the decks. Picking up the trailer next week,
hope to get the hull wet over the Thanksgiving holiday to check
stability and loading. No numbers or registration yet, so no motor
testing until that happens. I'll have to make do with my kayak
paddles and a pushpole.


Here are the links to the pics, 4 folders:

The beginning:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/BuildingTheGrassSlipper

The middle:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/GrassSlipperContinued

And what should be the end:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/FinishingTheGrassSlipper

And a how to folder:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/TipTubeFlare

Remember, click on the small images in the folders
and they reload as larger images with the captions easier to read...
previous and next image buttons above the larger images


----------



## Flyline

U got some skills and time to build this sweet skiff! I wish I have time to build one! Maybe in the future, when I'm retired then I will build a FS18 or XF20 but that's 20 years later.......lol. Sooner the better it is.


----------



## Brett

Getting my vessel identification number, my title,
registration and FL#s turned out to be fairly simple,
and inexpensive. For boats less than 16 feet long,
no inspection of the boat is required before dealing
with the paperwork. I had to fill out 2 forms,
Application for Certificate of Title...HSMV 82040 (REV. 02/08) S
and Vessel Statement of Builder...HSMV 87002 (Rev. 11/00) S
Attached copies of materials receipts used in building the hull,
and 6 pictures of the hull being built in my garage.
That pile of paperwork, along with $32.25 handed
to a clerk at the Flagler County Tag Agency, got me all my
needed documentation in less than 15 minutes.
Grass Slipper is water legal in the State of Florida.
I thought it was going to be a bureaucratic pain in the rear.
Turned out to be one of the simplest parts of the project.
I still have to finish glassing the decks, install the
metal tags with the hull ID number, and the Vessel Capacity Plate.
Trailer is in Deland waiting to be picked up.
Almost done. 5 months from the start date to now.


----------



## Gramps

Woo hoo! Time for the fish to start getting scared...


----------



## B.Lee

Ha ha, I'm getting fired up now! I guess it's because we have all been able to follow along so closely with your build, your excellent step by step pics, and details of each pic in the captions. I feel like I was right there watching, so thank you for that!

For sure, the 16' cut off is what saved you from the headache, it is a nightmare to jump through all the hoops for anything bigger. 

Sounds like your weekend plans just became a little more interesting!


----------



## TomFL

Heck yeah, ma. 

Please don't let the end of the build mean we won't get to see more pics. 

I'm sure I speak for all of us when I say I would love to see pics from the maiden voyage and beyond. 

-T


----------



## Brett

You forgot one important thing Tom,
I still have pocket tunnel shapes to experiment with.
The hull still weighs less than 225 pounds.
No problem flipping it to modify the pocket.
Me and my trusty gps will be testing different shapes.
Still have a full container of microballoons
and a quart of FLAG epoxy.
I expect another pic folder of tunnel tests.
Can you say "Next..."
This ought to keep me busy for a few years.
And as lemaymiami posted "the mechanical morphing tunnel"
I have to think about that possibility too!


----------



## Green_Hornet

It is yer boat and you can paint it what ever color you want....but....something that purtyful should be painted clear! 
Beautiful Job!


----------



## Brett

Spent the day after Thanksgiving in the garage putting the last of the
fiberglass on the deck and the transom reinforcing knees. Pretty good
calculation of fiberglass. Only have about 5' of 50" wide fiberglass left
and a small pile of irregular cut scraps. Sanding and epoxy gloss coats
finished. Fiberglass and epoxy work complete. I have to wait a week
before I can paint. Now I have to decide what colors to paint the hull
and deck. Trailer is going to have to be adjusted to make launching
simple. The only way to accomplish that is to take my tools to the
ramp, and play with the bunks and brace until the boat slides on and
off easily. Hope to do that very soon. Hung the motor on the transom
to see what she'll look like. Here's the pics:




























Considering I have no training as a marine architect, and I'm an
amateur builder, my design and build from a childhood memory,
came out better than I expected. I like the way she looks.


Here are the links - 4 folders:

The beginning:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/BuildingTheGrassSlipper

The middle:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/GrassSlipperContinued

And what should be the end:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/FinishingTheGrassSlipper

And a how to folder:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/TipTubeFlare

Click on the small images in the folders, and they reload
as larger images with the captions easier to read...
previous and next image buttons above the larger images


----------



## Kemo

It's awesome, Brett. Great to finally see it on the trailer. [smiley=1-thumbsup1.gif]

Kemo


----------



## paint it black

Looks great! What color is it going?


----------



## B.Lee

I like blue, with a clear (wood grain) boot stripe. To heck with showing the joint in the side! Green is cool too, but I think seafoam is a little played out lately, same with fighting lady yellow, unfortunately.


----------



## Brett

You asked for it Brian...
You got it...
(it's fun playing with image software)











A long time ago Brian, you asked how strong the gunnel caps were going to be.
I walked all the way around on top of the hull today, while it was on the trailer.
The gunnel caps are solid, sit, walk, stand, no worries.


----------



## rkmurphy

Looks unbelievable...I envy your talents. Are you really only going to put a 5hp on it? How fast would that push her? And blue seems to be a good luck color. Can't go wrong with blue...


----------



## Brett

Repeat of a previous reply:

The question is "Why only 5hp?".
Simple, I fish the "ditch". The Intracoastal Waterway has A-1-A
on the east side and US1 on the other. Its faster, easier and more
comfortable to put the boat back on the trailer and drive to the next ramp.
Plus safer, those privately owned cruise ships create their own tsunamis
as they cruise the ICW. Also most inshore areas are now no wake or manatee
zones. Can't go fast anyways. The engine only weighs 55 lbs. Think shallow.
The calculator says that with an 8" pitch, 8" diameter prop, the boat
should get a top speed of 14 mph. That's faster than I can run.

Here are the links - 4 folders:

The beginning:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/BuildingTheGrassSlipper

The middle:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/GrassSlipperContinued

And what should be the end:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/FinishingTheGrassSlipper

And a how to folder:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/TipTubeFlare

Click on the small images in the folders, and they reload
as larger images with the captions easier to read...
previous and next image buttons above the larger images


----------



## HaMm3r

Wow Brett, she is looking incredible!  [smiley=y-10.gif] The natural woodgrain on the sides is beautiful, even if it is only plywood. If it were me, I'd seriously think about leaving them as is. I'd paint the topside and cockpit a nice non-glare, non-skid off-white, but leave an inch or so border of natural wood around the inside and outside edges to frame it all out.

Can't wait to see it done, whatever color you decide.


----------



## iMacattack

PAint... your kidding right? Is say once you have a woodie... kep it a woodie! ;D


----------



## fishin4reel

> Wow Brett, she is looking incredible!  [smiley=y-10.gif] The natural woodgrain on the sides is beautiful, even if it is only plywood. If it were me, I'd seriously think about leaving them as is. I'd paint the topside and cockpit a nice non-glare, non-skid off-white, but leave an inch or so border of natural wood around the inside and outside edges to frame it all out.
> 
> Can't wait to see it done, whatever color you decide.


X 2


----------



## B.Lee

> You asked for it Brian...
> You got it...
> (it's fun playing with image software)
> 
> A long time ago Brian, you asked how strong the gunnel caps were going to be.
> I walked all the way around on top of the hull today, while it was on the trailer.
> The gunnel caps are solid, sit, walk, stand, no worries.


There it is, where do I vote?   

I could see as the build progressed that they would be plenty stout, the whole boat is plenty stout!  That may be the most well-built plywood flat bottoms I've ever seen, I'd be very proud of your work, as I'm sure you are.


----------



## rkmurphy

Just curious as I don't know much about boats yet (still learning and eager) but how do all wood boats hold up in the long run? I always see boat ads that boast "no wood". If built right can they last forever?

This thing looks built right to me...haha


----------



## Brett

From what I've read, the lifespan of a wood-epoxy-fiberglass hull,
depends on the sealing of the wood from exposure to moisture.
Water carries the spores of molds and fungus that eat wood.
Keeping a watertight epoxy-fiberglass envelope around the wood
prevents the growth of wood devouring pests that will destroy the hull.
There are wood hulls over one hundred years old that aren't coated
with epoxy. Research hasn't come up with an answer as to how long
epoxy and fiberglass will last. If I get 3 years out of this hull,
I'd be happy. My guess is it will last much longer unless I do
something stupid, like run it repeatedly onto oysters or rocks.

12/02/2008
Weighed the completed bare hull today, 223 lbs empty.
Plywood and PVC was 165 lbs, that means 58 lbs is epoxy,
fiberglass, wood flour and milled glass fibers. I wonder
how many pounds of epoxy dust is in my vacuum cleaner,
and on everything else in the garage. After getting this first hull
completed, I can see that using marine plywood could
cut the use of epoxy by half. I would only have needed to fiberglass
the plywood seams and the bottom of the hull. Sealed the rest
of the lumber with a few gloss coats of epoxy and then paint or
varnish. With epoxy costing one hundred dollars a gallon and the
weight savings, next time I'll use marine plywood. The other thing
I learned after the fact, was when bending plywood, for decks or hulls,
make the bend crossways to the direction of the grain of the exterior
laminates of the plywood. If you don't, stepping on the plywood splits
the grain of the exterior laminates. My daughter has informed me I
am not to wet the hull until she is home. Hopefully this weekend I'll be
able to post pictures of us attempting to flip the Slipper.

Here are the links - 4 folders:

The beginning:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/BuildingTheGrassSlipper

The middle:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/GrassSlipperContinued

And what should be the end:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/FinishingTheGrassSlipper

And a how to folder:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/TipTubeFlare

Click on the small images in the folders, and they reload
as larger images with the captions easier to read...
previous and next image buttons above the larger images


----------



## pescador72

Unbelievable the work you did on that rig Brett. Make sure you post some action shots. What do you plan to do for a poling platform?


----------



## Brett

Thanks EP, 
I'll post pics of the Slipper getting wet and chasing fins.
I don't use poling or casting platforms. One of the early things I learned
when I started flats fishing, was to keep a low profile. Keeping my height
from creating a shape against the sky helped keep fish from spooking
while I was trying to sneak up on them. Guides know this, so I find it
interesting watching guides duck down while standing on their poling
platforms. Seems to be an opposing action. Get up high to duck down.
I understand they are using the height to spot fish, gives them a better
position to beat the refractive angle of the water, and see below the
surface. I use the tabletop method. For example, you drop a spring
while cleaning a reel. You know its on the table, but it's so small that
it doesn't show up against the tabletop. What do you do? Get your
eye down at the level of the surface of the table. The spring shows up
as a high point, easily visible to the human eye. Same thing with fish
in shallow water, I look for the disruption of the surface pattern with my eyes
closer to the surface of the water. A tailing fish shows up a long ways away,
in the real skinny water. Wakes from traveling fish show up even farther.
The other benefits of no platforms...no cost, no added weight.
Every pound hurts on a shallow water skiff.


----------



## pescador72

Every pound hurts on a shallow water skiff.

You got that right!


----------



## TomFL

Brett, I've held off on my response for a day or two as I've been trying to think of some input on the paint/colors as you had posted. 

Honestly if it were me, I'd try not to cover up all that beautiful work you did with paint. I agree with others that a boot stripe would probably do wonders to add some schnazz. How often do you see a "woody" out there? Show up at the ramp with a sea-foam blue hull and you'll turn some heads regardless as some will notice it's a custom boat. 

But show up at the ramp with a "woodie" and I bet you never get out to fish as you'll probably be fending off questions left & right!

Maybe a "woodie" with a solid red or blue boot stripe??????

Using that word "woodie" reminds me of the old Flesh Gordon movie when he goes in the grocery store and sees the nurse. "I've got a giant H*rd-on that won't go away no matter how many times I do it. What can you give me for it?" he asks the nurse. 

"$200 and my wedding ring" is her response!

Glad to see the boat has grown up and ready to be released!

Congrats on an awesome build. 

-T


----------



## Brett

I'm having fun trying to come up with a color scheme.
Thanks for all the comments. Luckily there's no rush to paint.
Boat will be garage kept so UV exposure will be minimal.
Good thing I have a graphics program to try out ideas.
Some have been Butt Ugly....
If you saw the Slipper in person, you'd understand the
need for a paint job. There's a lot of build defects,
that don't show up in a digital camera.

another folder as I try color schemes:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/HullColors


----------



## TomFL

Brett, that last one is catchy. Even without the white boot stripe; what would just red & blue look like???


----------



## TomFL

On second thought put one of those gawdy gander mountain wraps on it and be done with it


----------



## Brett

> TomFl proposed: put one of those gawdy gander mountain wraps on it and be done with it



Tom, I catch and release,
not overwhelm and stun with advertising.
No fun catching fish that have already passed out.

                         

While I'm letting the epoxy cure for a week,
I'm prepping the trailer and boating equipment.
Putting together all the necessities the USCG requires.
Cleaning tackle, and dealing with the dust.

Here are the links - 5 folders:

The beginning:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/BuildingTheGrassSlipper

The middle:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/GrassSlipperContinued

And what should be the end:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/FinishingTheGrassSlipper

a how to folder:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/TipTubeFlare

and hull colors:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/HullColors

Click on the small images in the folders, and they reload
as larger images with the captions easier to read...
previous and next image buttons above the larger images


----------



## HaMm3r

When are you planning to wet test her, Brett?


----------



## Brett

Gina, the daughter in charge, has decreed 
Saturday morning. We'll take the Slipper to
Canaveral Seashore lot 5 sand ramp.
Knee deep water, clear, clean so if we
flip the Slipper it'll be easy to bail out.
Probably stop at JB's for lunch on the way out.
No motor testing yet, just paddle, pole
stability and load testing.


----------



## TomFL

> TomFl proposed: put one of those gawdy gander mountain wraps on it and be done with it
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Tom, I catch and release,
> not overwhelm and stun with advertising.
> No fun catching fish that have already passed out.
Click to expand...

Brett, should I have added more sarcasm to my original post so it was confirmed I was joking?  

You know, if you still want to take a gorgeous boat and make it look like a floating billboard and the gander wrap doesn't suit you, there's always kelloggs, interstate batteries, yo-zuri and the likes that I've seen wraps for. 

-T


----------



## Brett

> TomFL says: You know, if you still want to take a gorgeous boat and make it look like a floating billboard and the gander wrap doesn't suit you, there's always kelloggs, interstate batteries, yo-zuri and the likes that I've seen wraps for.


Hmmmm, if I was going to advertise, and I have a little blue hull...
with all the "Stiffy", "Wang" and "woodies" recommended around here,
then I guess I'd have to get a Viagra wrap.

                                   [smiley=1-whoops1.gif]

Here are the links - 5 folders:

The beginning:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/BuildingTheGrassSlipper

The middle:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/GrassSlipperContinued

And what should be the end:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/FinishingTheGrassSlipper

a how to folder:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/TipTubeFlare

and hull colors:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/HullColors

Click on the small images in the folders, and they reload
as larger images with the captions easier to read...
previous and next image buttons above the larger images


----------



## Brett

Waited out the weather this morning. Didn't leave Palm Coast until
the rain line moved south of Titusville. Drove down to Canaveral
National Seashore and had to launch at the asphalt ramp. 3 trailers
already at the sand ramp. No place to park. The Slipper slid off the
trailer no problem, and I paddled her to the sand north of the ramp.
Loaded her with gear and parked the truck. By the time I got back,
another boater waiting to haul out, was taking pictures of the Slipper.
He liked the boat. She floats skinny. Inch and a half at the beginning
of the bow rocker and 2 inches at the transom with no one aboard.
With my daughter and I aboard with all the gear, 3-1/2 inches. Ran
the motor the night before for 30 minutes in a bucket, no problems.
On the water the engine choked. Too much fuel. She'd start, idle OK,
increase the rpm and she'd stall out. Gonna have to rebuild the fuel
system. Oh well, 9 year old motor, to be expected. The Slipper poles
better than she paddles, and she gets into the skinny so skinny it's scary.
No fish, but still a fun way to try out a new hull. Grass Slipper didn't
stop traffic, but she sure slowed 'em down on I-95. Lot's of lookers
waving and nodding their heads in approval. Heres's the pics:


2" draft at middle of hull











3" draft at transom











Salt water on the deck, she's been baptised in the Lagoon.











Getting skinny











Up with the oysters











Doing what the Slipper was built for, floating skinny.
Gina weighs 100 lbs, sitting where she is,
the boat is perfectly balanced. Draft...2-1/2 inches










The pocket tunnel is 4" tall, look at the water level in the tunnel...


----------



## Green_Hornet

That is a thing of beauty!
Well done!


----------



## rkmurphy

I can't wait to see it painted.  I need money to get a new boat right now...I can't take this...

It looks unbelievable...do they offer the Nobel for this sort of thing? I know it has nothing to do with peace but...wow...


----------



## pescador72

Congratulations Brett. We've all been wait for this day almost as much as you have. 

On your next outing, once the Ob is squared away, get us some action picks if you can.


----------



## B.Lee

Holy cow, way shallower than I would have thought, and great balance. 

Mullet can't even swim that shallow, the fish should be scared very scared.


----------



## paint it black

My little 7.5 outboard did the exact same thing until it just died and it no longer has spark. 

My buddies 40, and my 40 did the same thing. ripped the carbs off, took em apart and cleaned them out they were all gunked up.


----------



## tgaud11

Very Cool. I would love to do something like that someday. 

Congratulations!!


----------



## gnuraider

Congrats...very impressive!


----------



## rkmurphy

How much did you end up spending on materials (not counting the motor)? And have you decided on a color and paint scheme yet? I'm getting antsy...


----------



## Brett

Thanks all, she does as good as I'd hoped.
Rebuilt the carb, adjusted the float, cleaned the fuel filter by
soaking it in isopropyl alcohol, lots of varnish, put a new spark plug in,
put it in the bucket and on the third pull the engine was purring.
Took the Slipper down to Herschel Park for a full throttle test run.
Hey CaptRon, do they make a cupped prop for a 5 hp nissan?
The pocket tunnel puts a solid channel of water to the prop
and a full inch of water over the cavitation plate. The engine
is over revving. Going to need a better prop or a better motor.
Walked around the deck while afloat, didn't flip, so the gunnel caps
will make a good step down into the cockpit from the dock.


Total time spent working on, or cleaning up the mess from,
to date: 384 hours, that's about 2-1/2 hours per day.
I said work was slow, I needed something to keep
me busy, I guess it kept me busy.
Started June 29, 2008 building the construction base.

Total expenses for hull, including paint brushes, wood, pvc, epoxy
fiberglass, wood flour, milled glass fiber, microballons, sandpaper
bandsaw, electric planer, new jigsaw, paint rollers, roller handle
drywall screws, small c-clamps, bow eye...to date: $1847.42
Good thing this project is being paid for from the sale of my last boat!

Wood boats aren't cheap are they?
Still cheaper than a new carbon/kevlar tech skiff.
Unless you count the hours spent building, good thing I don't.
I wasn't working, I was playing in the garage.
At least I can use the power tools for other projects.

Time taken to organize the receipts and add them up, after pulling them
out of the plastic jug that they were all dropped in from day one: 1 hour

I'm going to varnish everything for now, for UV protection.
People seem to like seeing the pencil lines, handwriting,
glass seams, glue joints and sandthroughs in the plywood layers.
Doesn't stop me from using the boat no matter how it's painted.

Here fishy, fishy, fishy... 


Here's another pic from the ramp today:










Here are the links - 6 folders:

The beginning:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/BuildingTheGrassSlipper

The middle:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/GrassSlipperContinued

And what should be the end:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/FinishingTheGrassSlipper

a how to folder:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/TipTubeFlare

and hull colors:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/HullColors

and now First Trip

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/FirstTrip

Click on the small images in the folders, and they reload
as larger images with the captions easier to read...
previous and next image buttons above the larger images


----------



## Cracka

A thing of beauty Brett, even more so when it has come from your own design.  Well done mate [smiley=bravo.gif].

Mick


----------



## Brett

Thanks Mick. The Slipper really gets the die hard boaters attention.
Took my trailer to the dealer today, with the Slipper aboard for
some changes to the setup. The guys in the yard spent half an
hour asking questions about how long it took, how much,
how shallow and how fast. B&G Trailers of Deland supplied me
with a trailer that was set up for a heavier hull. When I picked
up the back of the boat with the engine on it, so a lift strap could
fit under, they all had to see how lightweight she is.
After seeing the Slipper the boss had the guys drop the bunks down to
the frame, swapped out the winch post for a taller one, removed
some unnecessary parts and made some recommendations regarding
launching. He uses bar soap on bunks to make them slippery. I told
him about wax. He said Marine Patrol uses petroleum jelly. 6 people
working in the yard, 5 of them taking turns talking to me about the
Slipper. Spent an hour there having work done. When asked what I
owed, the manager shook his head, "Nothing. We sold you a trailer, it
needed to be adjusted, we take care of what we sell."
Good people there. I tipped the guys that did the work,
told them to have a few cold ones on me. Driving back on I-95
to Palm Coast, it seemed every pickup truck on the road had to pull
alongside, and look at the hull. People seem to like wood boats.


----------



## shine

congratulations on the launch  Time to enjoy your work


----------



## lemaymiami

Outstanding Brett... If you're ever down my way we'll take a day and I'll do the poling...


----------



## B.Lee

It might not be that people neccessarily like wood boats, but that people can appreciate what you have done. You may or may not consider it art, but art is in the eye of the beholder, and strikes each person differently. 

I, having watched the build from step one, have a great appreciation for what it is, that being not jsut another boat. I cannot wait to see it in person and fully be able to appreciate it. It is art to me.


----------



## Brett

Thanks again guys, but the Slipper is not done yet.
I still have quite a bit to do. The main reason for
the test launch, was to see how my design was going
to do in the real world. I knew she would be at least
as stable as a jon boat with a 42" wide floor, proving it
made me a lot happier. Walking the gunnels on an new
hull is a thrill too. I was unsure if the center of
gravity was low enough to be able to accomplish that.
My other concern was oil canning of the cockpit floor.
There are no stringers running the length of the hull.
Only cross hull bulkheads, the sides of the hull give
the Slipper her longitudinal stiffness. The curve of
the deck was what I felt was going to stiffen the
cockpit floor. I just didn't know how well.
After going over a few wakes and jumping up and down
on the cockpit sole, I'm satisfied I can continue
without adding any more wood or fiberglass. Painting,
hatches, floatation, cleats, wiring, lights, pushpole,
rubrail all still have to get done. My guess is the
Slipper won't hit water again until after the holidays.
New 9" pitch prop ordered, and I've been doing
research again on pocket tunnels to see how many
shapes I get to test out over the next couple of years.
Work is still very slow, so I should have time to get
all these things done.


----------



## FlgRyan

Outstanding Brett! Being a "just do it" guy myself I am in awe of the slipper! Great work I have removed the cap to my boat and taken the floors out this past week, I know people want me to refurb the existing boat but I have a vision and I will get it done! Would love to pick your brain sometime if I see you at the boat ramp! Great Work! [smiley=1-beer-german.gif]


----------



## Brett

I have to install foam floatation to have the Slipper meet the USCG regs.
However during my research into 2 part foam I've run across a couple of
problems. One is cost, the other is the expansion properties of 2 part foam.
Pour in place foam will continue to expand long after it fills the area
it is poured into. On many fiberglass hulls the foamed areas show up as
bulges in the hull and deck lines. I don't like the idea of having the extra
pressure inside my hull. The Slipper doesn't need reinforcing, just bouyancy.
researching the problem I came across an interesting solution.
I can float my boat for peanuts with peanuts. 10 cubic feet of polystyrene
peanuts cost 16 bucks, I only need 7.5 cubic feet. The nice part is
that if I need to inspect or repair the bouyancy compartment, I can remove
the peanuts through an access hole with my shop vac. Try doing that with pour
in place foam. Also these peanuts are recycled materials, the Grass Slipper goes green.

the regs:

http://files.dnr.state.mn.us/education_safety/safety/boatwater/backyardboatbuilders.pdf

Where I found the solution:
bottom of page, above comparison chart

http://councill.home.mindspring.com/sbjournal/catboats/catboat2.html













Here are the links - 8 folders:

The beginning:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/BuildingTheGrassSlipper

The middle:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/GrassSlipperContinued

And what should be the end:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/FinishingTheGrassSlipper

a how to folder:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/TipTubeFlare

another how to:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/LongKayakPaddle

installing a walkboard:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/TrailerWalkboard

and hull colors:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/HullColors

and First Trip

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/FirstTrip

Click on the small images in the folders, and they reload
as larger images with the captions easier to read...
previous and next image buttons above the larger images


----------



## Gramps

Nicely done sir! How about that paddle? Very good idea and sure blows away the $300+ push poles!


----------



## Brett

Had to make another album, keep having to add things that aren't
actually part of the hull construction. During the test launch, I noted
that because the Slipper is so light weight and flat bottomed, she slid
on and off the trailer at an angle. To solve that minor irritation I had to
build guides to keep the hull aligned on the trailer. I keep sidetracking
from completing the hull as unexpected details show up.
It does keep me occupied.

Here are the links - 9 folders:

The beginning:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/BuildingTheGrassSlipper

The middle:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/GrassSlipperContinued

And what should be the end:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/FinishingTheGrassSlipper

a how to folder:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/TipTubeFlare

another how to:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/LongKayakPaddle

then installing a walkboard:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/TrailerWalkboard

and installing trailer guides:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/TrailerGuides

and hull colors:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/HullColors

and First Trip

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/FirstTrip

Click on the small images in the folders, and they reload
as larger images with the captions easier to read...
previous and next image buttons above the larger images


----------



## redbone

Hey Brett
Stopped in to see how you did on the Slipper, Well made and it looks great. I checked out the latest pic you have and the last months post. Have a great New Year.
Tom


----------



## Brett

Thanks Tom,
Took a break from construction during the holidays,
should be back at it and adding pics again tonight.
Had to think about how to cover the openings
I have to cut for filling the bouyancy chambers.
My daughter has decided there will be no bow cleat.
She likes to lay down on the foredeck and look at the
critters in the seagrasses while I paddle the flats.
OK by me as it eliminates a tangle point from my flyline.

Happy New Year to all!

link to the 9 albums:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco


----------



## Brett

Cut down the transom yesterday, to eliminate the propeller cavitation problem.
Remounted the 5 hp Nissan engine and took the Slipper down to the ramp for a test ride.
I do like test rides. No one at the ramp, just me in the boat, started up my gps
and then the engine on the Slipper. Idled out into the channel, and started
increasing the rpm's. No more cavitation. The Slipper is so light weight and narrow,
that with her flat bottom, there is no up and over, like on a bigger boat. She transitions
from displacement to plane with just a slight drop of the bow. The Slipper planes at
between 6 and 7 mph, hard to tell it's so gradual. Ran her downwind first, getting
a top speed of 11.4 mph, made a sharp turn and the prop blew out. Settled back down
and headed back into the wind for a top speed of 10.2 mph. She goes faster than I can run.
Good enough for me, I'm more than satisfied. 6 months of playing in the garage has been
well worth it. Do it again? Heck yeah. Already planning another boat. I'll never really be
finished working on the Slipper, I enjoy modifying and improving too much. There's still
lots of small things to get installed, including non-skid, but the Slipper is basically done.
I started from scratch and this is where she ended up. A lightweight plywood and epoxy skiff
that gets skinny, poles quiet (ask Brian Lee), paddles like an oversized kayak and
gets me that last 500 feet to where the fish are. Got what I was hoping for.
I'll still be adding pics to the build albums, if you have a question on
any of them pm me or post it here. I'll be happy to answer them.

Later, Brett





Here are the links - 9 folders:

The beginning:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/BuildingTheGrassSlipper

The middle:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/GrassSlipperContinued

And the end:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/FinishingTheGrassSlipper

a how to folder:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/TipTubeFlare

another how to:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/LongKayakPaddle

then installing a walkboard:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/TrailerWalkboard

and installing trailer guides:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/TrailerGuides

and hull colors:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/HullColors

and First Trip

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/FirstTrip

Click on the small images in the folders, and they reload
as larger images with the captions easier to read...
previous and next image buttons above the larger images


----------



## Gramps

My hat is off you to Brett. Designed, built & proven all by you. Amazing job.


----------



## flyfshrmn82

very impressive...to say the least. She looks sweeeeet! 

What kind of speeds can you get out of her?


----------



## Brett

Thanks Jes.
Using the Nissan 5 hp 4 stroke, the Slipper planes at between
6 and 7 mph, hard to tell it's so gradual. The Slipper is so light weight
and narrow, that with her flat bottom, there is no up and over,
like on a bigger boat. She transitions from displacement to plane with
just a slight drop of the bow. During a test ride with only me aboard,
downwind run first, got a gps measured speed of 11.4 mph,
on the run back into the wind had a top speed of 10.2 mph.
She goes faster than I can run. I think, that after I add vents
to the top corners of the pockets, that she should go another mph
or 2 faster. The vacuum created by the pocket, and the drag that
results isn't a lot, but with only a 5 hp engine, vents will make
a difference. My folding cleat for the bow deck arrived, and was
installed. All the bouyancy chambers have been filled with
polystyrene peanuts, and the fiberglass plates epoxied on to
seal the fill holes. Picked up a quart of Interlux non-skid topside
paint, so after some hand sanding and cleanup, it'll be time to paint
the decks. Less slipping and sliding will be a good thing.

Here are the links - 9 folders:

The beginning:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/BuildingTheGrassSlipper

The middle:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/GrassSlipperContinued

And the end:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/FinishingTheGrassSlipper

a how to folder:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/TipTubeFlare

another how to:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/LongKayakPaddle

then installing a walkboard:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/TrailerWalkboard

and installing trailer guides:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/TrailerGuides

hull colors:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/HullColors

and First Trip

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/FirstTrip

Click on the small images in the folders, and they reload
as larger images with the captions easier to read...
previous and next image buttons above the larger images


----------



## rkmurphy

I want one...now...


----------



## LoneRanger

that is a slick boat for sure!

only thing I'd change would be a motor upgrade (15hp!)



very cool,

L.R.


----------



## Brett

> only thing I'd change would be a motor upgrade (15hp!)


If I didn't live in NE Florida, she'd be 6" wider,
and there'd be a high performance 10 (tweaked to 15)
hanging on the back. But where I live and fish it's not necessary.
Even Mosquito Lagoon, pick your ramp to find fish nearby.
Read the guide reports and you know which ramp to launch from.
That 5 hp only weighs 55 lbs. Keeps me shallow .
That's more important than speed.


----------



## Jacbo

If you can find a tohatsu/nissan 9.8hp two stroke they only weigh 59 lbs. 
4.8hp extra horses would probably make a big difference on that light of a boat.  

If you have trouble finding a 9.8, most 8hp two strokes are under 60lbs.


----------



## Brett

> a tohatsu/nissan 9.8hp two stroke they only weigh 59 lbs.
> 4.8hp extra horses would probably make a big difference on that light of a boat.


You're right.
Yet, I built the boat to fit the motor,
and it just doesn't seem right to sideline it yet.
Let's see just how much speed I can get out of the Slipper
using the 5 hp Nissan. So many tunnel shapes to play with.
Anyone can throw horsepower on a hull and go faster.
I'm learning pocket tunnel design by trial and error.
That way, anyone else decides to give it a go,
they'll have a starting point to work from.
Everyone needs a hobby, this one's mine.



Nice and quiet in the garage in the evening.
Cup of coffee, Jimmy Buffet on the stereo.
Envisioning water flow vectors under and through the tunnel.
Puts me right to sleep, sitting in my thinkin' chair.

Interesting, not too much information on tweaking Nissan 5 hp engines...
9 inch pitch prop, get 6000 rpm, existing 2.15 gear reduction
calculator...theoretical speed of 23.78 mph...oh boy!
Just what I need, another hobby.

  

Here are the links - 9 folders:

The beginning:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/BuildingTheGrassSlipper

The middle:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/GrassSlipperContinued

And the end:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/FinishingTheGrassSlipper

a how to folder:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/TipTubeFlare

another how to:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/LongKayakPaddle

then installing a walkboard:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/TrailerWalkboard

and installing trailer guides:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/TrailerGuides

hull colors:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/HullColors

and First Trip

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/FirstTrip

Click on the small images in the folders, and they reload
as larger images with the captions easier to read...
previous and next image buttons above the larger images


----------



## rkmurphy

I need an update...now that I have my own that's just sitting I have to live vicariously through others...


----------



## Brett

I thought I was the only one that likes to watch... 

Too cold to paint last week, can you tell?
This is Florida, we're not supposed to get icicles!










That's a Thai pepper pant, of the thermo-nuclear el scorcho variety.
Now it's just an icy-hot. Anyone for a pepper-cicle?

Sanding underway, hope to paint non-skid today.

Link to all the pic albums:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco

Good read about the S. Florida I remember, a few of the pics look
extremely familiar, maybe a family resemblance to the Slipper:

http://www.florida-everglades.com/totch/totch.htm


----------



## rkmurphy

Great. I'm excited. Can't wait to see pics.


----------



## Brett

There, a pic, when the paint drys, I will no longer have a slippery deck!










Here are the links to the rest of the pics - 9 folders:

The beginning:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/BuildingTheGrassSlipper

The middle:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/GrassSlipperContinued

And the end:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/FinishingTheGrassSlipper

a how to folder:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/TipTubeFlare

another how to:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/LongKayakPaddle

then installing a walkboard:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/TrailerWalkboard

and installing trailer guides:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/TrailerGuides

hull colors:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/HullColors

and First Trip

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/FirstTrip

Click on the small images in the folders, and they reload
as larger images with the captions easier to read...
previous and next image buttons above the larger images


----------



## rkmurphy

Ha thanks for the fix. And now it can be called the Slipper for the right reasons.


----------



## Gramps

Glad to see you have some more protection on your wood. Tell me, is it latex based? [smiley=y-00.gif]


----------



## litlblusrn4bigred

Great job Brett! I love it!


----------



## rkmurphy

As always, I'm blown away. Looks great man...I envy your talent. Are you planning on painting the rest of the hull, still?


----------



## Brett

> rkmurphy asked: Are you planning on painting the rest of the hull, still?


After reading everything I can find on the subject,
I've decided to use a topside high UV resistant varnish.
Should allow the wood grain to show, and protect the epoxy
from breaking down from exposure to the Florida sun.
Means yearly maintenance on the finish, but that's the
price you pay for having a woody.











more info on application of varnish over epoxy:
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/document.do?docId=317&title=Interlux+Varnish+Over+Epoxy

http://www.greenval.com/FAQvarnishing.html


Here are the links to the rest of the pics - 9 folders:

The beginning:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/BuildingTheGrassSlipper

The middle:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/GrassSlipperContinued

And the end:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/FinishingTheGrassSlipper

a how to folder:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/TipTubeFlare

another how to:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/LongKayakPaddle

then installing a walkboard:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/TrailerWalkboard

and installing trailer guides:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/TrailerGuides

hull colors:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/HullColors

and First Trip

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/FirstTrip

Click on the small images in the folders, and they reload
as larger images with the captions easier to read...
previous and next image buttons above the larger images


----------



## rkmurphy

Checked out that article. That's going to make the wood grain look beautiful. And hey, at least you already have step one done...so no waiting a week for curing.


----------



## Gramps

Should get a nice buzz while working that oil onto your Woody. Good protection from the sun, maintain the beauty & give you a reason once a year to tell your wife it is just something a man has to do!  :


----------



## Un-shore

In case I never said it before, regarding this project and post....


[smiley=bravo.gif]


----------



## Brett

Spent the last couple of weeks making sense out of the need to
ventilate pocket tunnels. My trip to Shelby's Lagoon on the ICW
made for an interesting experiment. The narrow entrance to the
lagoon with the strong incoming tide flow and very shallow water,
allowed me to stand behind the Slipper and watch the water boil
out of the pocket tunnel. The turbulence broke the air in the pocket
into bubbles, and then swept the bubbles out from under the hull.
As I watched, the Slipper settled lower in the water as the bubbles
kept getting fewer and fewer. When the bubbles stopped appearing
I reached under the hull, no air pocket left. Explains the differences
in top speed between calm water and a light chop. Faster in the chop
because more air was getting into the pocket. Not fighting the extra
load caused by the water trapped where the air pocket used to be.
Came up with a way to vent the tunnel and improve the flow through
the pocket. Flipped the Slipper upside down again and installed the vents.
Questions or comments...post 'em here.

Here are the links to the pics - 10 folders:

The beginning:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/BuildingTheGrassSlipper

The middle:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/GrassSlipperContinued

And the end:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/FinishingTheGrassSlipper

venting the pocket tunnel:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/PocketTunnel

a how to folder:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/TipTubeFlare

another how to:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/LongKayakPaddle

then installing a walkboard:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/TrailerWalkboard

and installing trailer guides:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/TrailerGuides

hull colors:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/HullColors

and First Trip

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/FirstTrip

Click on the small images in the folders, and they reload
as larger images with the captions easier to read...
previous and next image buttons above the larger images


----------



## rkmurphy

You're a genius...

When you're finally done tweaking this thing (if ever) you may have a nice little skiff design to start producing for profit ;D


----------



## Brett

Pocket tunnel with new vents...










Finshed the tunnel vents and took the Slipper out for a test ride.
GPS in hand ran up and down wind in the channel several times.
New averaged top speed of 12.6 mph. Not a big deal for most,
but for a 16 foot boat with a 4 stroke 5 hp engine, acceptable.
Got a 10% improvement in speed with the new tunnel shape.
Prop is biting cleaner water, less turbulence coming out of the pocket.
That's the last of the structural work on the hull. All that's left is
some wiring, paint and rubrails. Albums will be here to look at.
A few more pics will be added as I finish off the details.
Now let's see how long it takes before I build the next one.










Who'd believe a 5 hp engine could throw a wake... ;D




Here are the links to the pics - 10 folders:

The beginning:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/BuildingTheGrassSlipper

The middle:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/GrassSlipperContinued

And the end:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/FinishingTheGrassSlipper

venting the pocket tunnel:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/PocketTunnel

a how to folder:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/TipTubeFlare

another how to:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/LongKayakPaddle

then installing a walkboard:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/TrailerWalkboard

and installing trailer guides:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/TrailerGuides

hull colors:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/HullColors

and First Trip

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/FirstTrip

Click on the small images in the folders, and they reload
as larger images with the captions easier to read...
previous and next image buttons above the larger images


----------



## firecat1981

I'm sure this has been asked before at some point, but could you give me a few details?

-dimensions (LxWxH)
-build cost to date?
-approx. list of materials?

thanks man, it looks great!


----------



## Brett

Thanks firecat...

Just realized, I started construction 1 year ago this weekend.
It was fun to build and I'll do it again, now that I know how easy it is.

Hull dimensions: 15'8" long, 49" wide
16-1/2" from bottom to shear, 235 lbs hull weight (includes hatches, cleats, etc)

Time spent: 6 months, I averaged 2-1/2 hours build time a day

Cost of hull construction, tools and materials: a little over $2000
Could have cost a little less, but that's the price of learning the hard way.

Materials:

Construction base:

Assorted drywall screws from 1" to 3-1/2" long
four 2x6's 16' long
two 4'x8' sheets of 3/4" particle board floor underlayment

Hull:

Two 4'x8' sheets of 1/2" exterior plywood (no voids)
five 4'x8' sheets of 7/32" exterior luan (no voids)
one 4'x8' sheet 3/8" exterior plywood (no voids)
3/4" exterior plywood, 48"x24" (transom)
32 linear feet of 1"x2" clear pine
64 linear feet of 3/8"x1-1/2" pine door molding
40 yards of 50" wide 6 ounce fiberglass cloth
50 yards of 6" wide 6 ounce fiberglass tape
2 gallons of FLAG epoxy
4 gallons of low viscosity epoxy
3 gallons of slow epoxy hardener
6 quarts of wood flour
2 quarts of milled glass fibers
1 quart of phenolic microballons
Assorted sandpaper and protective gloves
10 cubic feet of polystyrene packing peanuts

After finishing the hull and looking back at it,
I realize that the Slipper was overbuilt.
Not that all the epoxy ended up on the hull,
some had to be dumped as it set too fast.
Still, considering where and how I use her, overbuilt's probably a good thing.
Better too much fiberglass, than not enough.
Oyster creeks are a bit rough on a hull...










link to the photo albums of the build:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco


----------



## chip_haywood

How much to build me one ?????????


----------



## Brett

> How much to build me one ?


         Too much.   ;D

However, if you want to build your own, I'll be happy to talk you through it.
That way you'll end up with the exact layout that makes you happy.
And we'll have another build to watch...


----------



## B.Lee

> How much to build me one ?????????


A better question would be "How much do you want for this one?" I know Brett has his next one planned already, when it starts cooling off in the garage the smell of sawdust would be a welcome one!


----------



## WhiteDog70810

Brett,

Over built @ 235 lbs? I guess some production hulls with those dimensions are lighter, but they are usually foam cored or solid fiberglass and not nearly as stiff or puncture resistant as your hull should be. Except for it being unnecessarily stupid and a total blasphemy to drag that much work across the shell, I could load and unload boat of that size from the back of a full size pickup by myself! 

... but you are the builder and remember every epoxy screw-up, extra layer of fiberglass and ply that might be thicker than necessary from the entire project (which probably added a whole 20 lbs), so you are your worst critic.
:

Bottom line, your boat planes with a 5 HP motor and can still play in the oysters! 

Nate


----------



## firecat1981

Hey Brett how was the registration process? who did you contact and what were the regulations imposed? (ie. floatation requirements)


----------



## Brett

Regulations regarding bouyancy, tipping, loading, passengers...

http://files.dnr.state.mn.us/education_safety/safety/boatwater/backyardboatbuilders.pdf

Getting my vessel identification number, my title, registration and FL#s turned out to be fairly simple, and inexpensive.
For boats less than 16 feet long, no inspection of the boat is required before dealing with the paperwork.
I had to fill out 2 forms:

Application for Certificate of Title...HSMV 82040 (REV. 02/08) S

Vessel Statement of Builder...HSMV 87002 (Rev. 11/00) S

(both found on line, then printed out)

Attached copies of materials receipts used in building the hull, and 6 pictures of the hull being built in my garage.
That pile of paperwork, along with $32.25 handed to a clerk at the Flagler County Tag Agency, got me all my needed documentation in less than 15 minutes.


----------



## firecat1981

hmmm, crap, I guess I should have kept all my reciepts . Will they just take my word for it with an load of pics?


----------



## B.Lee

Yep, show them a few build pics if they ask. I have never had to provide receipts, they just took my word for it.


----------



## Brett

The reason for the receipts is to prove sales taxes were paid on the hull and deck and engine of the new boat.
Otherwise they can add sales taxes to your application for title, based on the estimated value of your hull.





















build pics:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco


----------



## patrick

After clicking through 14 pages and countless Picasa images, I have to say that you did an amazing job Brett. My hats off to you. Simply amazing work. A true thing of beauty. Congrats on a job well done


----------



## firecat1981

hey brett did you secure the cooler or is it free floating? I'm planning on building a seat on top of mine so I need it secure.

PS I just found the invoice from my FB supplies so I'm good on recipts now, thanks.


----------



## Brett

This page and the next three after it show how the cooler is tied down. Use the next arrow over the image to see the next page.

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/FinishingTheGrassSlipper#5290498824519463458


----------



## firecat1981

ok I must have missed that along the way.


----------



## Brett

Well, doesn't seem like it, but the Grass Slipper has been in use
for a year now. (just got my registration renewal in the mail)
I figured an update on how my Home Depot cheapo plywood, fiberglass and epoxy hull,
has held up to my oyster creek fishing, would be useful to those with a "build your own" mentality.
After 32 trips in very shallow, oyster lined creeks and bays, lots of bumps
and crunches, she's holding up great. No leaks, lots of surface scratches,
and no structural damage at all. She's a shallow floating, quiet, easy to pole or paddle,
fish catching hull. Wet in a chop, but that's to be expected from a flat bottom narrow hulled skiff.
The unprotected epoxy finish of the hull has darkened, but no breakdown of the surface
due to UV is apparent. Garage storage has limited the exposure to a few hours each trip.

Removing the old registration sticker showed the difference.











The Interlux Interdeck paint, applied directly over epoxy, has not peeled or blistered and is a very
effective non-skid surface. The self sticking felt used to line the rod holders
has worked out great, 32 washings and still hanging on to the epoxy coated racks.
No visible cracking in any of the epoxy fillet seams. The 5 hp Nissan 4 stroke averages
less than a pint of fuel per trip. It sounds funny, but I'm only on my second tank full
of gas. (3.5 gallon tank) But that's due more to where I fish, creeks where the water
is so shallow that running the motor is a waste of time. Trailering is easy, launching
and retrieval a snap due to the light weight hull and wax impregnated carpet on the bunks.
Turned out to be a very fun and functional little skiff.  Since all the waters
outside of the channels are no wake and manatee zones, I could have built a conventional hull
and obtained the same idling draft by simply tilting the motor. The pocket tunnel was a great
education, but really does not create very much of an advantage. So next time, no tunnel.
And it's true what they say...build one boat, finish it, and you immediately start thinking about building the next one.

Build pics still in the same place...

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco


----------



## mark_gardner

And it's true what they say...build one boat, finish it, and you immediately start thinking about building the next one.





so when does the new project begain? makes me wonder what you would come up with if you had some old pontoons laying around  ;D


----------



## Brett

I thought seriously about a small catamaran, even had a name for it..."PoleCat".
But the weight and displacement calculations made it ineffective for shallow water use.
At least as shallow as I like to play. My thoughts keep turning to two hulls previously posted.

From the Classics Corner the 14' Willy Roberts

http://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1249732712

and the 1954 strip built Canadian Challenger

http://www.richardlpaquette.ca/CanadianChallenger.htm

The Willy is an easier build, but that Challenger would be awful purdy when finished.


----------



## Green_Hornet

I saved those Willy Roberts pics the first time I saw them and thought that would be something sweet to have. Hope you decide to try something like that. I would love to watch the build on that.


----------



## Guest

Bump, cause I'm tired of going to page 6 to find my ;D info.


----------



## Brett

Start your own thread for your build... 

That way we can watch your project, because mine is done.

Link to my build albums:

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco


----------



## mark_gardner

the slipper drafts what?? an inch maybe 2????  ;D


----------



## Brett

3 inches with just me aboard, 3-1/2 to 4 with a guest.


----------



## Brett

The Grass Slipper is finished, nothing else to modify.
Tunnel research is concluded, outboard swap and testing is over.
As Deerfly pointed out at the beginning, a pocket tunnel
on a flat bottom, lightweight skiff doesn't accomplish much
in the way of providing an advantage in running shallow.
It really doesn't. Still, since I was going to build a hull anyway,
I went ahead and included the tunnel in my design.
Never built a tunnel before, learned much in building this one.
The picture below shows why the tunnel produces so little gain
over a simple flat bottom design. The hull when on plane
drafts the same as when at rest. This means that the water level
coming off the leading edge of the pocket tunnel is actually lower
than the top of the rear of the tunnel, by about an inch.
To further cause problems, bubbles caused by the interaction
of the hull with the water's surface, permeates the top 1 to 2 inches
of water under the hull. When that aerated water leaves the
tunnel, it's directed squarely to the propeller. This results
in the propeller losing it's "bite", if the engine is mounted too high
on the transom. The top of the prop needs to be clear of the aerated water.
In order to find "bite", the prop had to be an inch and a half
below the top of the tunnel. With a 4 inch tunnel, that means
that there is only a two and a half inch advantage over a simple
flat bottomed hull. Not worth the effort to build, unless you're like me,
and enjoy the process as much as the use of the finished hull.
It is possible to gain back that inch and a half,
by installing a cupped performance prop, but why?
To pick up a mile per hour more, or run a little shallower?
New regulations are in effect that limit engine use
when traveling in shallow water over seagrass beds.
I'll keep the set up as is and just keep using her.

                                    


build albums...

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco


----------



## gheenoe

My local prop shop only charges $25 to add cup to my prop IMO well worth the money considering the time put into the tunnel.


----------



## luckovertme

so you still dont think the pocket tunnel is worth it even tho you gained 2.5"?? what do you think would happen if you had a round shaped tunnel running farther forward to the bow that was say 6-8" deep??? do you think you could run 4" shallower??


----------



## Andrewp

Brett, you said nothing left to do ...... can I ask a question about the ride? I know it's a flat bottom, so it's going to pound in a chop, but what about overall wetness when it pounds? Do you think there is anything you could do to re-deflect spray (some kind of spray rail or strake)?? Where would it go/how long, etc?

AP


----------



## Brett

krainium...I have to purchase a backup prop anyhow,
so I'll be looking for a 9x9 cupped aluminum.

luckovertime...The problem with a lightweight skiff is that hull
draft at rest is the same as hull draft on plane. With just me in the hull
the Slipper floats in 3 inches, so on plane, there's only 3 inches of water
in the tunnel when she's running full throttle.
That's why I had to cut so much off the transom.
The prop is set for when I fish alone.
With 2 people in the boat, the original height (level with the tunnel top)
worked fine. But running solo, the hull was squirrely
and blowouts happened regularly in turns and in a 6 inch chop.
So the final setting of an inch and a half below tunnel top is what works.
If I had built a heavier hull (deeper draft) the tunnel would work better.


AP...a flat bottom 235 lb hull in a 6 inch chop will rattle your teeth.
Any real chop, and I become a displacement cruiser.
I like my kidneys working the way they do now.
Spray will always be a problem on any hull that's only 4 feet wide.
No matter how many spray rails are installed.
Slipper is an inshore flat water skiff. It ain't flat, I ain't going.


----------



## Erik

Hello and Good Morning Brett!
First let me apologize for asking something that probably has been asked a million times! Would you have and would you be okay with passing on a copy of your "Grass Slipper", I absolutely love her design! I've built a 3 foot model but I'm not sure how to get the curved bow and flat bottom lines! Any help...in this winters build would be amazing! Thank You! Either way you choose, sorry for taking up your time! Fish On!
Erik G.


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## DuckNut

Erik said:


> Hello and Good Morning Brett!
> First let me apologize for asking something that probably has been asked a million times! Would you have and would you be okay with passing on a copy of your "Grass Slipper", I absolutely love her design! I've built a 3 foot model but I'm not sure how to get the curved bow and flat bottom lines! Any help...in this winters build would be amazing! Thank You! Either way you choose, sorry for taking up your time! Fish On!
> Erik G.


Erik
Brett has not been on here for quite some time. However, if you look at his picasaweb link you will find his entire build well documented.

edit: assuming the link still works.


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## LowHydrogen

I was a lurker when he started this build, always thought it was a super cool boat. I wonder how it's holding up. @DuckNut does anyone have contact with him still?


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## anytide

its been awhile since weve talked but i just sent him an email to see how hes doing.


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## DuckNut

LowHydrogen said:


> I was a lurker when he started this build, always thought it was a super cool boat. I wonder how it's holding up. @DuckNut does anyone have contact with him still?


I haven't talked to him this year but have exchanged messages.

He has a thread on here somewhere on the Grass Slipper. It was holding up very well.


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## anytide

anytide said:


> its been awhile since weve talked but i just sent him an email to see how hes doing.


hes doing well and visits periodically.


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## Erik

DuckNut said:


> Erik
> Brett has not been on here for quite some time. However, if you look at his picasaweb link you will find his entire build well documented.
> 
> edit: assuming the link still works.


Thank You DuckHunt!
I will try it out!
Erik


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## Erik

HI Lowhydrogen!
I tried his link,http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco, It wasn't up anymore. If you or anytide, speak with him could you see if it would be possible to hook up with him or get some of his notes? If thats even possible! Man i have to say thank you for letting me be a pain! Either way , Thank You Guys!


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## anytide

ill let him know
im sure he;ll be happy to info you.


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## Brett

9 years later and 60k views and folks are still asking questions.
Yeah, I still wander by to see what's going on with the new small skiffs.
The Slipper looks the same, few more scratches and dings,
but still going where most skiffs can't get to. Back to running a 5 hp Nissan,
saves weight and fuel considering most trips are just across the ICW into the marsh.
Google revamped the web albums so all the captioned build pics shifted locations.

Let me see if I can relink the new urls...

The start

The middle

Finishing the hull

Pocket tunnel

Flyrod tip tubes

Hull dimensions

That should cover most of the pics.
I'm still around, just not much to say that I haven't already said.


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## DuckNut

Brett said:


> 9 years later and 60k views and folks are still asking questions.
> Yeah, I still wander by to see what's going on with the new small skiffs.
> The Slipper looks the same, few more scratches and dings,
> but still going where most skiffs can't get to. Back to running a 5 hp Nissan,
> saves weight and fuel considering most trips are just across the ICW into the marsh.
> Google revamped the web albums so all the captioned build pics shifted locations.
> 
> Let me see if I can relink the new urls...
> 
> The start
> 
> The middle
> 
> Finishing the hull
> 
> Pocket tunnel
> 
> Flyrod tip tubes
> 
> Hull dimensions
> 
> That should cover most of the pics.
> I'm still around, just not much to say that I haven't already said.


Thanks Brett.

Did you trade the saw for sculpting wood chisels and some fancy wood blanks?


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## Brett

No, traded it for an F class stock, Savage target action and a Shilen match select barrel. Been learning precision reloading and working on judging wind at 400 yards with 223 75 grain vld's.


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## noeettica

Nice to see you stop by 

Hope the item your wife got is doing well ... It was awesome ! I basically replaced it with the same thing ;-)

but I think hers was better LoL ...


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## WhiteDog70810

Brett said:


> No, traded it for an F class stock, Savage target action and a Shilen match select barrel. Been learning precision reloading and working on judging wind at 400 yards with 223 75 grain vld's.


That will keep you busy. I want a rifle, but I am afraid I don't have the available time or attention span to shoot well beyond 200 yards, much less reload.

Nate


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## Brett

Lack of time I understand, but attention span isn't a worthwhile excuse.
Reloading is one of those skills that requires a certain amount of OCD.
Obsessive attention to detail and a compulsive need to obtain perfection.







Kind of like the personality type needed to build a skiff from plywood and epoxy.


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