# Doing a rewire under the console. Fuse help???



## WranglerJoe (Jul 10, 2021)

So running a Garmin, nav/anchor lights(all LED), bilge, live well, courtesy lights, underwater LED’s and will have a light bar installed soon. Got the blue seas fuse block and am building out the “wiring harness” so to speak.
Question is. What size fuse (typically) for everything? Like LED’s 5a etc. 

Here’s what I got so far:


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## Steve_Mevers (Feb 8, 2013)

The fuse protects the circuit, not the load. In other words, the maximum fuse size depends on the maximum amperage the wiring can handle regardless of what the circuit powers. The maximum amperage of the circuit is determined by length and gauge of wire. I usually run smaller fuses that are closer to the operating amperage of the load on the circuit.


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## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

Each of your "appliances" will have different fuse requirements.... Most bilge or baitwell pumps will require a five or six amp fuse (and some will say to have a "slow burn" fuse...). In comparison a small gps might only need a 1/2amp fuse. Make a point of only having one item for each circuit (no matter how convenient it is to double or triple up on circuits if they use the same size fuse) since having a single item in a fused circuit greatly eases trouble shooting when you pop a fuse... Along with spare fuses in each size, buy a fuse puller - they're cheap and make removing or installing a fuse easier.

Lastly, be smarter than I was all those years ago when I rigged out my old Maverick... If at all possible put that fuse block where it's easily accessible with plenty of room around it when you're trying to sort out a problem. Just another of those "ask me how I know" deals at this end...


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## WranglerJoe (Jul 10, 2021)

lemaymiami said:


> Each of your "appliances" will have different fuse requirements.... Most bilge or baitwell pumps will require a five or six amp fuse (and some will say to have a "slow burn" fuse...). In comparison a small gps might only need a 1/2amp fuse. Make a point of only having one item for each circuit (no matter how convenient it is to double or triple up on circuits if they use the same size fuse) since having a single item in a fused circuit greatly eases trouble shooting when you pop a fuse... Along with spare fuses in each size, buy a fuse puller - they're cheap and make removing or installing a fuse easier.
> 
> Lastly, be smarter than I was all those years ago when I rigged out my old Maverick... If at all possible put that fuse block where it's easily accessible with plenty of room around it when you're trying to sort out a problem. Just another of those "ask me how I know" deals at this end...


Fantastic points. Just wait till you see the before and after….I bought someone else’s Mess….. the only circuits I combined are the nav lights and anchor light. Other than that everything else is independently ran


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## ElLobo (Sep 14, 2020)

WranglerJoe said:


> So running a Garmin, nav/anchor lights(all LED), bilge, live well, courtesy lights, underwater LED’s and will have a light bar installed soon. Got the blue seas fuse block and am building out the “wiring harness” so to speak.
> Question is. What size fuse (typically) for everything? Like LED’s 5a etc.
> 
> Here’s what I got so far:
> View attachment 179508


Just went through and fine tuned all my fuses on my boat. Without seeing the exact item and the manufacture recommended fuse size I would do this.
Garmin - 5a
nav/anchor lights - 5a
bilge - 5a
live well - 5a
courtesy lights - 5a
underwater LED’s - 5a
light bar - ? Need to check with manufacture
Trim Tabs - 30a ( if you have them)


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## WranglerJoe (Jul 10, 2021)

ElLobo said:


> Just went through and fine tuned all my fuses on my boat. Without seeing the exact item and the manufacture recommended fuse size I would do this.
> Garmin - 5a
> nav/anchor lights - 5a
> bilge - 5a
> ...


Exactly what I was lookin for! Thanks!


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## ElLobo (Sep 14, 2020)

Also could skip the buss bar and run the red wires for each item to the one of the lower twelve nuts like you currently have on the blues seas fuse box and then the ground (black) to the one of the upper 12 nuts. then one hot wire from the battery to the bottom big nut and negative to the top large nut. Would look a little cleaner. Similar to this


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## ElLobo (Sep 14, 2020)

I think all the buss bars do is clutter it up. This would be easier to diagnose issues and is a cleaner look.


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## ElLobo (Sep 14, 2020)

.


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## Gogittum (May 24, 2020)

Do yourself a very huge favor and buy circuit breakers for your project. At the best of times, fuses are a hassle to troubleshoot and replace. Breaker pops out and is instantly visible. Push it back in and go. If it pops again, then start troubleshooting to find out why. Here's what I did......










This is a temporary proof of function panel I've built for my tin skiff. All going well, I'll build a permanent one out of a fancier wood soon. Anyway, you can see the 2 circuit breakers between the gauges on the left and power/bilge pump switches on the right. Right up top in plain sight. No scrunching under panels with a flashlight. I'll add a 3rd breaker when I get my VHF out of storage and "maybe" a 4th if I decide to go with 2 bilge pumps.


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## WranglerJoe (Jul 10, 2021)

ElLobo said:


> Also could skip the buss bar and run the red wires for each item to the one of the lower twelve nuts like you currently have on the blues seas fuse box and then the ground (black) to the one of the upper 12 nuts. then one hot wire from the battery to the bottom big nut and negative to the top large nut. Would look a little cleaner. Similar to this
> 
> View attachment 179526


The reason for the bus bar is those are negatives from independent 5 pin latching switches, also ease of access under the console, plus I have the other electronics that are not on the switch panel that will be going to the fuse block. I hope that makes sense, otherwise bye bye bus bar lol


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## WranglerJoe (Jul 10, 2021)

also with dielectric grease…can I cover the terminal block in it? Never seen a good video on how exactly I can use it in marine application


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## ElLobo (Sep 14, 2020)

I wouldn't put it on the connection at the fuse block. It can interfere with conductivity.


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

ElLobo said:


> I wouldn't put it on the connection at the fuse block. It can interfere with conductivity.


So dielectric interferes with conductivity, who knew


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Just keep the dielectric off of mating surfaces. Otherwise, have it.


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## Lkillinger (May 15, 2015)

Sublime said:


> Just keep the dielectric off of mating surfaces. Otherwise, have it.


Don’t want to hijack a thread here, but I’m getting a new boat and this wiring question about protecting the connections caught my eye- do any of you spray down or otherwise use any protectant on an electrical panel like this? If so, what’s your preferred protectant?


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

I have dielectric grease and dielectric spray. Dielectric says it conducts electricity. So I've put it on screws on my buses. Those seem like mating surfaces


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## Gogittum (May 24, 2020)

Dielectric grease is an insulator. It's used on a connection to protect that connection from corrosion, contamination, etc., and should be used after a connection is made. If you use it when assembling a connection, it can inhibit good contact between components, but "usually" will be displaced when connections are tightened down....but not always.


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## WranglerJoe (Jul 10, 2021)

Gogittum said:


> Dielectric grease is an insulator. It's used on a connection to protect that connection from corrosion, contamination, etc., and should be used after a connection is made. If you use it when assembling a connection, it can inhibit good contact between components, but "usually" will be displaced when connections are tightened down....but not always.


Exactly, I’m saying when I’m done, should I apply a thin layer over everything


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## Loogie (Jul 24, 2019)

I would recommend Boeshield sprayed on the bus bar, and any connectoons that are exposed, it’s designed to protect circuits from humidity. Not cheap but very effective at protecting from corrosion.


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## WranglerJoe (Jul 10, 2021)

Loogie said:


> I would recommend Boeshield sprayed on the bus bar, and any connectoons that are exposed, it’s designed to protect circuits from humidity. Not cheap but very effective at protecting from corrosion.


Good idea 👍🏽


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## Steve_Mevers (Feb 8, 2013)

permitchaser said:


> I have dielectric grease and dielectric spray. Dielectric says it conducts electricity. So I've put it on screws on my buses. Those seem like mating surfaces


Dielectric grease helps conductivity. It may attract dirt but it is not an insulator, that is for sure.


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## ElLobo (Sep 14, 2020)

What The Heck is Dielectric Grease?


Learn more on what dielectric grease is. Our team of experts have prepared a detailed guide on everything you need to know about electric grease.




www.thedrive.com





"
*Q: So Does Dielectric Grease Improve a Connection? *
*A: *No, dielectric grease is not conductive, so it does not improve connectivity. It helps maintain a good connection, though."


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