# Bilge Pump



## Guest (May 20, 2008)

I would put in the biggest one you can say maybe an 1100 gph or two 500 gph. If you take a big one over the side, you can't get that water out fast enough. At 500 gph, I can bail much faster by hand. trust me, with the pucker factor, you will most likely bail 3 to 4 times faster (than a 500gph).  I would put in an 1100 gph automatic with manual override and I use a cattle feed scoop that holds about 1/2 gallon, has a flat bottom and a handle. It's good for scooping up bait from the deck and changing the water in a bait bucket too. 

as always, just my .000000000000000002 sense


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## redgheenoe (Apr 28, 2007)

Thanks for the reply. You said "over the side"... do most drill through the hull for the outlet or put the tube over and clamp it on? I'd rather not drill through the boat if it is not necessary.


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## Guest (May 20, 2008)

> Thanks for the reply. You said "over the side"... .


I was referring to a "wave" over the side, bow or stern. You could easily take on 20 gallons or more. At 8 lbs per gallon, it would be 160 lbs. I would want that weight out since waves seem to only crash "over" in rough seas.  No time to think - need to get the water out NOW!!!!! 

For the record, a very common mistake when a large amount of water comes aboard is that people freeze. They need to "nail it" into the wind / waves. These are planing hulls and the excess water will go over the transom if you take on enough to swamp the boat. That's when I want pumps getting the water out as fast as possible while making forward motion (into the wind/waves) 30 seconds feels like eternity when the hull is full of water. 100 gallons would theoretically take about 12 minuets to [email protected] 500 gph. I want it out in less than 3. 100 gph pump and bail like crazy. 

Gheenoes have such low free board that running the discharge over the side is fine.


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## MATT (Apr 30, 2007)

Is there a way to convert the manual into a auto ?


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## Guest (May 20, 2008)

> Is there a way to convert the manual into a auto ?



Rule float switch with a 3 position switch.

If it's already manual, I would leave it alone. I've seen too many auto's fail. It's kind of simple - if your feet are wet turn on the switch.


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## MATT (Apr 30, 2007)

I went with the manual when I got the boat cause on my last boat if I was stocking fish and forgot to turn it off it would sometimes pump and and make noise at the wrong time. Now I want to leave the Noe at the dock over night but have no auto bilge...Maybe I should just add a 2ed pump with the auto. Beter to have over kill then limited options...


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## Guest (May 20, 2008)

> I went with the manual when I got the boat cause on my last boat if I was stocking fish and forgot to turn it off it would sometimes pump and and make noise at the wrong time. Now I want to leave the Noe at the dock over night but have no auto bilge...Maybe I should just add a 2ed pump with the auto. Beter to have over kill then limited options...



How big is the pump you have now?


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## MATT (Apr 30, 2007)

would have to look, what ever Pugar installed new.


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## Guest (May 20, 2008)

> would have to look, what ever Pugar installed new.



Depends on what you specify but a s a rule (no pun intended) 500 is std. I would put in a second 500 or 1100.


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## MATT (Apr 30, 2007)

Thanks for the advise could be a fun little prodject to add a 2ed pump.
now the question is should I add it to my LT25 or get a New one.....hmmm


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## EurosportCC (Jan 18, 2008)

Rule 1100 with automatic float switch works great. I was not to impressed with the self contained units, they turn on and off every few minutes to check for water which did not agree with me for these hulls you can install a manual three way switch to turn it on as you feel the need, but as CR said its best to get the boat moving into the waves as quickly as possible. Alot can happen in a few minutes and I dodn't want to be fumbling around with switches when its more important to get the boat moving to safer water.


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## Guest (May 20, 2008)

> Thanks for the advise could be a fun little prodject to add a 2ed pump.
> now the question is should I add it to my LT25 or get a New one.....hmmm



You should know better then to throw out a question like that.


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## MATT (Apr 30, 2007)

I am looking for a reson to upgrade my LT25 for one with deck and false floors, wonder if the safty of a auto bilge pump would fly?


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## Guest (May 20, 2008)

> I am looking for a reson to upgrade my LT25 for one with deck and false floors, wonder if the safty of a auto bilge pump would fly?



No!!!!!!!!!

Try "I Want" rather than "I Need"


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## Tom_C (Dec 10, 2006)

Matt
It will be to much work for you. Give me your oldddddd LT and I will install the same setup I have on my classic on your new LT for free. 
I installed two 1100 in my classic.  Both have a three way switch 1 float switch, 2 off, 3 direct wire on. 

Rule Model 27D with Ruleamatic Float Switch model 35A. 
1100 GPM. 
Pump cost $45 
Float switch cost $25 

Attwood Model Sahara S1100 (Float switch built in) 
1100 GPM 
Pump with float switch $75 


Installing a Bilge Pump 
by Don Casey 
Bilge pump installation is straightforward, but it is essential not to overlook key details. 










Mount the pump 
You must not place the pump in the bilge unrestrained. If it falls over it will suck air and burn out. Pumps must be fastened down. Brackets are available that attach to a stringer or other vertical feature, or you can epoxy a couple of bolts to the bottom of the bilge to serve as mounting studs. 

Float switches must also be fastened. 

Use smooth-bore hose 
Corrugated hose reduces pump output by as much as 30%, so always connect the pump to the discharge fitting with hose that has a smooth interior surface. 

Bends and long runs also reduce pump output, so make the hose run as straight and as short as possible. That may mean discharging the pump through the side of the hull rather than through the transom. However. . . 

Place the discharge above the waterline 
If the discharge is submerged when the pump runs, the ocean siphons back through the pump into the bilge when the pump shuts off. When enough water has entered to float the switch, the pump will eject it, only to have it siphon back again. This continues until the battery is depleted, then the water floods the boat until it reaches a level that gets the crew's attention. 

The discharge fitting must never go below the waterline. If the fitting is through the transom, be sure it is high enough not to submerge when the stern squats. And if it is through the side of the hull, it must be high enough to remain above the water at the deepest angle of heel. 

Use a thin-wall fitting 
The through-hull fitting can further reduce pump capacity. To minimize this restriction, use a fitting with the largest possible opening. 

Lead wiring up 
It is essential to get the pump wiring out of the bilge as quickly as possible. Run the wires up and secure them so that they do not sag into the bilge water. 

Don't skimp on wire size 
A 3,500 gph pump will draw 15 amps, typically necessitating 10-gauge, or maybe even 8-gauge wire. Consult the ABYC Wire Size Table to determine the appropriate wire for your pump and length of wire run. 

Use butt connectors and heat shrink 
Crimp-on step-down butt connectors will assure a good mechanical and electrical connection between the supply wires and the pump leads. Enclose these connections in adhesive heat shrink tubing to make them water tight. You must slide the heat shrink over the wire and out of the way before you make the connections. Then center the tubing over the crimped connector and shrink it with a heat gun or by playing a flame beneath it. Be sure there are no explosive fumes in the bilge! 

Connect to the battery 
When you turn the power off to leave the boat unattended, you don't want to turn off the bilge pump. Connect an automatic bilge pump directly to the battery, not through the distribution panel. 

Fuse the positive side 
It is essential to have a fuse in the positive wire as close to the battery as possible. Some switch panels (see below) include a fuse. Otherwise join an in-line fuse holder to the battery end of the positive wire using a crimp butt connector. 

Install terminal fittings 
Do not strip the ends of the supply wires and loop them beneath the battery terminal wing nuts. Install crimp-on ring terminals the proper size to fit the threaded posts on your battery. Use a copper washer-not steel-between the wing nut and the ring terminal. 

Three-way switch 
If your bilge pump has a separate float switch, you may want to wire it to a three way switch that allows you to select automatic, on, or off. Be sure to support all wire runs at least every 18 inches using cable clamps or ties.
_________________


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## MATT (Apr 30, 2007)

Tom thanks for a lot of very good information and getting the thred back on tract.


I printed your post and will save as reference later.


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## marshman (Feb 9, 2007)

dang,   ......a 3500 gph pump...????man that will suck the glass off the floor of your boat....lol ;D ;D


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## Guest (May 20, 2008)

> dang,  ......a 3500 gph pump...????man that will suck the glass off the floor of your boat....lol ;D ;D



Thereby flipping the bhote?


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