# Installing a New Trolling Motor Puck - Nida Core Deck?



## Ronel10 (Apr 17, 2019)

I have a 2014 Beavertail Strike. I finally decided to remove the old 55lb MK Riptide and have ordered a new 80 lb Motorguide Xi5. The riptide was on a quick Release puck, and I want to do the same with the motorguide. The MK appears to be through bolted with a backing plate. However, I can’t reach the nuts under the deck. Plus, the MG will require new holes and through bolts. How do I remove the old puck and through bolt the MG puck without being access the area under the deck? The only solution I can think of involves adding a new access hole in the deck …. I don’t want to do that! Thanks For any advice you can provide!


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## eberin (Jul 11, 2018)

Not sure how you can remove the old puck and nuts underneath other than an angle grinder?

however I had a similar situation on my G3 and used toggle bolts, picked them up at Home Depot and found the ones that matches my screw

so far no issues, granted it’s only been installed 4 months


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## Ronel10 (Apr 17, 2019)

Thx. Is it worth springing for the stainless toggle bolts available at West Marine? I’m a little worried the others would rust quickly.


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## eberin (Jul 11, 2018)

Not sure of the difference but any advantage that you can take on a boat I’d take.


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## Ronel10 (Apr 17, 2019)

I edited the title to this post to hopefully attract someone with experience with Nida Core. After drilling into the deck of the BT to install the anchors, I realized that the Nida Core (or similar) deck is too thick and the space between the bottom of the deck and the hull is tool small for the toggle to fit. The fiberglass layer on the core material seems to be too thin to properly anchor the puck. Is there a way to do this without cutting into the deck? I’m hoping that i can take advantage of the 4 holes that I drilled for the anchors … built I definitely stuck at the moment.


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## topnative2 (Feb 22, 2009)

Send your girl up there w/ a wrench or put a pie hole in to get access...

How about a..... https://www.boatoutfitters.com/material/plastic-sheet......round over the edge to make it "professional".There is special adhesive out for starboard

It has been recommended in past posts to drill larger blind holes and fill w/ epoxy and then pre-drill to the appropriate size and screw the "gizmo" on.

I would add some 5200 to the puck itself just to anchor it


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## Waves1 (Oct 13, 2021)

I had the same problem. I trimmed the toggle shorter with a cutoff blade on my dremel until I could get it to open. I cut more than half of the material away to get it to work. And yes the stainless ones are worth it.


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## Ronel10 (Apr 17, 2019)

Waves1 said:


> I had the same problem. I trimmed the toggle shorter with a cutoff blade on my dremel until I could get it to open. I cut more than half of the material away to get it to work. And yes the stainless ones are worth it.


How well did the smaller anchors hold? Any problems so far?


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## Ronel10 (Apr 17, 2019)

topnative2 said:


> Send your girl up there w/ a wrench or put a pie hole in to get access...
> 
> How about a..... https://www.boatoutfitters.com/material/plastic-sheet......round over the edge to make it "professional".There is special adhesive out for starboard
> 
> ...


The link you added does not work. What product are you referencing? Starboard to cover the access hole? 

For the backfill with epoxy, I’m assuming the puck is just screwed in and not through bolted. Is that how others have done it?


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## topnative2 (Feb 22, 2009)

Ronel10 said:


> The link you added does not work. What product are you referencing? Starboard to cover the access hole?
> 
> For the back-fill with epoxy, I’m assuming the puck is just screwed in and not through bolted. Is that how others have done it?



https://www.boatoutfitters.com/................

ref. materials king board,acrylic etc..


Yes........ It has been done to secure all kinds of stuff.....consoles etc....I do not remember if a puck was done

All coring is a PIA when attaching stuff in difficult spots.....try google or the hull truth......never know

reach out to JCDesigns or firecat?......all w/ experience


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## backbone (Jan 4, 2016)

Take it to BT! Cry once...


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## Yeticrusher01 (Nov 16, 2021)

Ronel10 said:


> I edited the title to this post to hopefully attract someone with experience with Nida Core. After drilling into the deck of the BT to install the anchors, I realized that the Nida Core (or similar) deck is too thick and the space between the bottom of the deck and the hull is tool small for the toggle to fit. The fiberglass layer on the core material seems to be too thin to properly anchor the puck. Is there a way to do this without cutting into the deck? I’m hoping that i can take advantage of the 4 holes that I drilled for the anchors … built I definitely stuck at the moment.


What about inserting a piece of all thread thats almost the exact size of the hole than get some quick set, self mixing epoxy that comes in a syringe and hold the all thread in place at the height you want while you inject the epoxy in and around the stud


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## Ronel10 (Apr 17, 2019)

That may work (kind of like setting a concrete anchor or bolt in concrete). The downside is the puck. The recessed holes would have to be drilled out to allow room for a locking nut to be tightened so that it does not extend past the top of the puck. I would have to check the thickness of the puck to see if that is possible.


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## Yeticrusher01 (Nov 16, 2021)

You shouldn't need to drill the holes out too much. You could use a flat nut and lock washer plus some red loctite. I'd also add a bit of that epoxy to the bottom of the puck when you set it in place


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