# Carolina Skiff custom casting deck and tiller to center console conversion



## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

Hi everyone,
I am not sure if this is the correct section to ask but, I am interested in adding a raised front deck to my Carolina Skiff. I have attached a picture with dimensions.
I have some fiberglass experience using epoxy (west system or system 4). I plan to use 1/2" marine plywood. The deck spans 78" across and 48" bow towards the stern. I need it to hold 2 grown men. 

What size structural bracing you recommend? 
I plan to glass/epoxy all sides of the marine plywood. Any recommendations on how many layers and of what weight cloth?


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

I would like to add as little weight as possible. 

Do you think 1/2" marine ply is too thick? 
I think I can do this project with one sheet of ply. Any idea on how much epoxy and filler I need to order?


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Panamakid said:


> I would like to add as little weight as possible. Do you think 1/2" marine ply is too thick?


On my build, I made the front deck 6 foot long, and it spaned probably 58 at its widest. It was made using 3/8" marine ply. With epoxy, I used 12oz biax on the bottom of the deck and 6oz cloth on top. There are 3 supports spanning from gunnel to gunnel and two 1"x2" supports from bow to bulkhead. Here is a pic (red lines indicate the 1x2 supports as I didn't photograph these. Cut notches in the bulkheads/support that go from gunnel to gunnel to embed the 1x2s):









I'm a big man and have been on the deck with a buddy who is also 200#+


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

yobata said:


> On my build, I made the front deck 6 foot long, and it spaned probably 58 at its widest. It was made using 3/8" marine ply. With epoxy, I used 12oz biax on the bottom of the deck and 6oz cloth on top. There are 3 supports spanning from gunnel to gunnel and two 1"x2" supports from bow to bulkhead. Here is a pic (red lines indicate the 1x2 supports as I didn't photograph these. Cut notches in the bulkheads/support that go from gunnel to gunnel to embed the 1x2s):
> View attachment 28831
> 
> 
> I'm a big man and have been on the deck with a buddy who is also 200#+


What material is the bracing (ply)? What kind of wood were the 1x2's?


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Panamakid said:


> What material is the bracing (ply)? What kind of wood were the 1x2's?


bracing was 3/8" marine ply (same as the deck), the 1x2s were southern yellow pine (no fiberglass on those, but 3 coats of neat epoxy on them).


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## Guest (May 16, 2018)

I’m gonna let the guys with more experience building with wood take this one. If you decide on composite I’ll share my thoughts. Looking forward to seeing the progress though.


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

yobata said:


> bracing was 3/8" marine ply (same as the deck), the 1x2s were southern yellow pine (no fiberglass on those, but 3 coats of neat epoxy on them).


Yobata,
Thank you for the info. I am reading your thread on the Johnsen-Starfish Build.

Can you recommend a brand of epoxy?
I would like to start ordering supplies and start getting ready.

I am curious how you made the template of cardboard. As you can see from my picture I have a few off angles to deal with.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Panamakid said:


> Yobata,
> Thank you for the info. I am reading your thread on the Johnsen-Starfish Build.
> 
> Can you recommend a brand of epoxy?
> ...


I used epoxy from Boat Builder Central - MarinEpoxy. Its a 2:1 mix. I liked working with it, minimal "blush" effect. While you are there, buy wood flour as your thickening agent to make fillets etc. Its pretty cheap, maybe $5/lbs??

For the templates: cut a piece of cardboard straight, and use a scrap piece of wood and drill a hole about 2" from the end, stick a marker/pencil thru the hole, and run the wood/marker along the gunnel shape against the cardboard to make the compound shape... Hope that makes sense


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

Boatbrains said:


> I’m gonna let the guys with more experience building with wood take this one. If you decide on composite I’ll share my thoughts. Looking forward to seeing the progress though.


Boat Brains, 
I am not familiar with the composites. I am in Jacksonville Florida and made several calls and was unable to find small quantities of Coosa. I am open to suggestions. 

How do they compare to weight and cost of using wood? 
It is not a huge project so it doesn't seem like the cost would be too crazy. 
Are the composite options structurally strong like ply?


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## Guest (May 16, 2018)

The composites are, just a different layup process. Coosa isn’t needed for a deck. You could get away using the nidacore. It would be the cheapest of them. On a deck that size a 1” core with two layers 1708 on each side and no bracing needed except on cockpit edge. It should weigh in about the same as the ply but be lighter because you won’t need added bracing.


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

Nidacore looks interesting. Is there a number other than 1/2" I should look for?


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## 17376 (May 5, 2017)

Just use 3/8 meranti ply from bateau.com

Get marine epoxy from them and wood flour. If you’re in Jacksonville I’d be willing to help you out. I am in Jax too

I definitely wouldn’t go composite route due to weight to strength. If you’re going to leave it open underneath run bracing as stated above. And epoxy everything

And don’t use expensive west systems or system 3. Not worth the money


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## Guest (May 16, 2018)

Travis Smith said:


> Just use 3/8 meranti ply from bateau.com
> 
> Get marine epoxy from them and wood flour. If you’re in Jacksonville I’d be willing to help you out. I am in Jax too
> 
> ...


If Travis will help and you already have the experience with wood then that is a great offer and you’ll knock it out fast. With the nidacore you’ll want the 1” to do clearspan with layup with 2 layers 1708 or 1700 if epoxy. Travis, this layup and core will be as light and strong as the wood. Probably cost about the same either way. Wood is great if done properly, I just prefer the composites myself.


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## 17376 (May 5, 2017)

Or we can build a one off cap that goes right into it


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

Thanks, everyone for the advice. Travis, I appreciate the offer. Any expertise you can offer is appreciated.


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

I am going to start ordering materials. Can anyone advise me on how much materials to order?

If you have any other must haves or tools that help make the process go smoother let me know.

Epoxy/hardner kit- how much? One Gallon?
Filler - 3lbs?
fiberglass cloth (12oz biax on the bottom and 6oz cloth on top) I found 50" wide X 15' rolls.
fiberglass tape - What sizes?
chip brushes - 20
gloves 100
spreader knives
acetone
rollers
sandpaper
grinder wheels
Gelcoat or topside paint?
I think I need 2 sheets of marine plywood 3/8" . ( I will use cheap plywood for templates)

I am glassing both sides of the ply. Topdeck is 48" x 72" (slightly less due to angles near bow). Bulkhead is a small area 78" at the top, 60" at the bottom, and 15" tall. I plan to cut out holes for two hatches 10 " X 24". Plus the bracing supports, not sure what size those will be.

- Thanks


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

I don't think you need 15' rolls of the fiberglass, BoatBuilderCentral can cut it by the yard (50" wide). Also, I would get at least a 1.5gallon kit. For the tape, use 6" wide 12oz tape. Also, I would opt for a 2 part paint instead of gelcoat since you will be using epoxy...


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

ok, I am ordering cloth and i see 0/90 or 45/45. not sure what is needed for decks. I have googled it and it says one direction is stronger. Almost like the grain in a board.


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

If there is anything I should change please let me know. 
I thought I was doing this project for $400 in materials but I think I will exceed $600 with the paint, plywood, hatches, cleats, and rod holders. Oh well, it will be worth it in the end.


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## 17376 (May 5, 2017)

You don’t want 1208.. you want regular 12 oz biaxial


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

Fiberglass cloth Biaxial (45/45), 12oz., 50 in. wide - per yard

Or

Fiberglass Cloth Biaxial (0/90), 12 oz., 50 in. - per yard?


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## 17376 (May 5, 2017)

45/45


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## Guest (May 18, 2018)

Have you priced a deck from carolina skiff?


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## 17376 (May 5, 2017)

It can’t be that much more


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

Unfortunately, my Boat Model is too old.

This part is not sold for this boat. My boat is a 1989 model 1660. The newer boats are much narrower.


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## Guest (May 18, 2018)

Got cha! Good project then. Carry on please.


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

Can anyone recommend a top coat that can be tinted? I would like to TRY and match the new deck to the rest of the boat.


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## Guest (May 25, 2018)

If it’s gel coat then stick with gelcoat.


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

I am using epoxy for my deck. For some reason, I thought I read Gelcoat could not go over epoxy.


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## Guest (May 25, 2018)

It doesn’t very well. You can abrade the heck out of the topside with multiple grits 30-80-120-220 on a da then lay a layer of csm wetout with vinylester resin and top coat that with gelcoat and you should be fine. The varied abrasive cuts and vinylester should get a good bite. I’ve done similar repairs on jetski hulls that are smc “sheet molded composite” only solid way to repair is epoxy but hull is gelcoat! Have to get creative sometime. If you wanna re coat the whole interior to match the you can stick with any good topside paint.


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## 17376 (May 5, 2017)

Gelcoat doesn’t stick to epoxy well. I would use awlgrip or Interlux


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## Guest (May 25, 2018)

Travis Smith said:


> Gelcoat doesn’t stick to epoxy well. I would use awlgrip or Interlux


Travis, I have had good success using the method I posted. I try to avoid poly over epoxy but to match/blend to existing surface you have to sometimes. I am all for topside paint, but I don’t know that he’ll get it to look good and match without doing the entire topside.


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## millerrep (Apr 14, 2014)

On the paint. This would be my approach. After all the epoxy is cured, sanded and washed and bone dry. I'd open a quart of glidden gripper and sausage roll on a coat of gripper, 10 bucks a quart and sticks to that surface no problem. Then a waterborne urethane as a top coat, one part shake it open it and mowhair roll on a coat. You can and any of the non skid additives to the water base urethane, just follow non skid additive volume. Sherwin Williams makes a product called Hydroshield, maybe $60 a galllon, may not be available in quarts. This stuff will work for you, and you can match the base white on your hull. Then pour off a 1/2 pint and have your Sherwin Williams guy give you a squirt of blue tint an mix it in the pint to come close to the splatter look you have. The splatter on you hull looks easy to match by hand using scrub brush to fling some material on an a tongue depressor to dribble some material on.. this way involves no solvents, no reducers , no catalyst.


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## Guest (May 27, 2018)

millerrep said:


> On the paint. This would be my approach. After all the epoxy is cured, sanded and washed and bone dry. I'd open a quart of glidden gripper and sausage roll on a coat of gripper, 10 bucks a quart and sticks to that surface no problem. Then a waterborne urethane as a top coat, one part shake it open it and mowhair roll on a coat. You can and any of the non skid additives to the water base urethane, just follow non skid additive volume. Sherwin Williams makes a product called Hydroshield, maybe $60 a galllon, may not be available in quarts. This stuff will work for you, and you can match the base white on your hull. Then pour off a 1/2 pint and have your Sherwin Williams guy give you a squirt of blue tint an mix it in the pint to come close to the splatter look you have. The splatter on you hull looks easy to match by hand using scrub brush to fling some material on an a tongue depressor to dribble some material on.. this way involves no solvents, no reducers , no catalyst.


This should work fine, keep in mind though that some paints/ products don’t play well with others. I try to stick with products made for marine use. If he has to have a repair done in the future it can be a mess to deal with. I reccomend sticking with a good topside paint. I know my method works for gel over epoxy but some might not be comfortable doing it and I understand that also.


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## Tonyskiff (Jan 7, 2018)

I did mine out of divinycell H60 and a layer of 1708 then tap all corners with 4” strip of 1708. This stuff is super strong yet lite. Used gereral purpose poly-resin. Hold screws no problem. Boat tested loaded with two people and ice and fishing gear, flying above water off of incoming wake at WOT @ 41mph. No problems at all.


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

Sorry for the delay, I ordered all the epoxy and glass. In the meantime, I found a used console with steering and internal tank for a good deal. So I have decided to convert the tiller to a remote steer center console. The tiller works great but not being able to stand while running really takes its toll on my back all day. I have a buddy with the same boat with the CC and its a much nicer ride. SO I have been ordering all sorts of small fittings and brackets to allow my motor to use remote controls. I am now going to install the console then build the front deck. This way I can ensure I don't make it too big.

Does anyone have any advice on making DIY cable/wire guards? There is no way to mount them under the deck and I would like to minimize the tripping hazard.


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## Pole Position (Apr 3, 2016)

^
Tossing out ideas....scroll mid-way down this thread and see where he glassed quarter round pvc along the chines:

https://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=63262


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Without the chase already being there you're kind of stuck with pvc. As @Pole Position mentioned, the cleaner look is along the chine (if you can position the console offset to one side). If you're putting it in the middle, a pvc pipe ripped in half on a table saw going straight back from the console would be an ok option too.


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

I am starting to do my skiff conversion from tiller to console with controls. I am also adding a front and rear deck. What hatches do you guys recommend? I would like to get something that could be walked on for the casting deck and bait well.


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## Guest (Apr 19, 2019)

Build some from fiberglass. They aren’t bad to make and you can incorporate a good deep gutter and drain. All the plastic hatches will eventually give up if walked on regularly.


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## Battfisher (Jan 18, 2016)

Boatbrains said:


> Build some from fiberglass. They aren’t bad to make and you can incorporate a good deep gutter and drain. All the plastic hatches will eventually give up if walked on regularly.


There's a guy on this site that can make some KILLER drop-in hatches - but he may be tied up working on what could well be the coolest skiff ever.


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

I watched a post on how to make custom hatches. I think that would take me a while and this is not a showboat. I need to get back on the water. I may just go with some from amazon but would like something that will last a few yrs.


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## Guest (Apr 20, 2019)

Panamakid said:


> I watched a post on how to make custom hatches. I think that would take me a while and this is not a showboat. I need to get back on the water. I may just go with some from amazon but would like something that will last a few yrs.


Read Chris Morejohns blog. He does a good job of showing how easy it is. If you do them yourself they are cheaper than the plastic ones and will increase the value of your project.


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

I read the Morejohns blog. That guy is good. I like the idea of a nice hatch. But I feel 2 or three hatches would take me like 4 days. Maybe I can find a video on YouTube.


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

I finally made some progress on the deck build this weekend. I forgot how much work and how long things take. I am using 3/8's inch marine plywood with marine epoxy and fiberglass. The hatch and gutters required some tweaking but we got it.
I still need to glass the top side of the casting deck and bulkhead. 

I think I am using mat and 6oz because I have it on hand and dont want to buy more stuff.


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

Today I modified the center console I bought used to fit a cooler as a seat rather than the small storage compartment that leaked. I will have to glass the edges with cloth or tape. But I feel the boat will be more functional. I also peanut buttered a radius between the new deck and the gunnel lip so it will be easier to fiberglass.


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

Yesterday evening I glassed the outside of the top deck. I used a heavy matt strand with a mid-weight cloth on top. Boy did that chopped strand/Matt suck up the epoxy. I lost count how many times I had to run back to the garage to mix more epoxy. In hindsight, I should have skipped the matt and just did an extra layer of glass or 3. The end result required a fair bit of grinding and sanding and applying a final neat coat of epoxy over my ground and sanded areas. The deck is very strong. After I cleaned up my huge mess in the garage a swarm of love bugs decided to land on my wet epoxy deck.


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

I have a question for you guys. I was planning on painting the epoxy surfaces once I was done with all the other boat work. How long can the epoxy be in the sun before it yellows?


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Panamakid said:


> I have a question for you guys. I was planning on painting the epoxy surfaces once I was done with all the other boat work. How long can the epoxy be in the sun before it yellows?


Brett's Glass Slipper was never painted, it yellows over time, but its not a big deal.

https://www.microskiff.com/threads/start-from-scratch.16399/page-12#post-394514


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

Thanks for the info. I wasn’t sure if the yellowing was just cosmetic. It will get hidden by paint at some point.


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

I sprayed everything with the hose to try and get some of the fiberglass dust cleaned up. I have been shop vacuuming and wiping with wet towels and it still comes back. The hatch gutters work pretty good but I did have. A few drips. I will need to put another coat of neat poxy in all the cracks


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

I found a sweat deal on Attwood's Neat Cleat on eBay. It installs flush and you pull it up when you need it. They are normally like $70 but this was $24 new with free shipping. It seems very well made. The only issue is it says "Sea Ray" on the top. But the price was right.


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

I have a few questions for the gurus.

Question #1: What is the best way to fill 4 engine bolt holes in the transom? 

I need to fill the existing bolt holes in the transom and re-drill new holes a bit higher.

Should I just fill them with epoxy and glass over? Or should I find a dowel and epoxy and glass it in?

I have taken precautions to not allow holes near the waterline. When I do drill a hole I always over drill and epoxy, then re-drill.

Question #2: What paints work best on epoxy?

Are there any that I could tint to try and match the rest of the boat? The inside of the boat was rolled with Gelcoat in 2013. It held up pretty good. But I remember lots of sanding on the epoxy to allow it to stick. It cracked and chipped in a few spots. I actually still have some of the original 2013 Gelcoat left but I do not have much faith that the 6-year-old chemicals are still good.


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## Guest (May 21, 2019)

Fill with thickened epoxy “add fiber if wanted”, glass over and coat.

The carolina color is white base with yellow and brown tint. Put a couple oz gelcoat in a mic tub and add a toothpick drop of yellow then test for match, add a toothpick drop of brown then check for match. Repeat until you get it. I believe there is usually a drop or two more yellow than brown but it truly depends on individual skiff. Buff an area close to repair site for a test patch area. I will put a swatch of pure white on first then go right next to it with the following swatches. Don’t catalyze your gelcoat for the test swatches. Once you have the color right, you can then wipe the swatches off with acetone. 

If you want to check your old gelcoat material, just catalyze some at 2% and see what happens.


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

Thank you Boat brains.


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

Question for you guys...


*Do I need to use special marine wire and connection terminals? 
*
In the past, I used trailer wires rated to be submerged. But I only had lights and a bilge pump 2' from the battery. This new format will have a center console and a few more gadgets, Livewell, small stereo, bilge pump, running lights, fish finder, etc.
I have a bus panel but no fuse system other than inline on the fish finder.

My engine has an electric start key on the tiller. I need to cut and solder 6-7' extensions for about 6 ignition wires so it can be mounted to the console.

What is the best way to do this? West marine sells small spools of wire that are marine grade. 
*

Where is the best place to get lots of wire without dropping $$$$$?*

The starting Battery is in the stern near the motor. So I plan to have the engine starting cables and charging system go directly to the battery. Then a large 10 Ga wire to bus panels in the console to run all other stuff. I would like to try and keep everything neat and organized, yet still, leave the option to add new gadgets without cutting open the wire harness.


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

Did some grinding, sanding and filling in the transom today.

I had to build a wood rack to hold the outboard, then bribe a buddy over to help me lift it.

Once the outboard was off the transom I saw a small bubble. With just a knife I was able to remove a 1' X 1' cloth and mat that never cured. Luckily the exterior transom is 100% glass and nothing was penetrated.

I used the grinder and orbital sander to smooth everything out before wiping with acetone and making a batch of epoxy wood flour peanut butter. I filled the motor bolt holes and any other small voids. I will allow that to cure in the sun before sanding and applying some mat and cloth over the holes and area the motor sits.


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

I attempted to turn the skiff over in a buddy's yard as he has a perfect oak tree. We were unable to get it high enough and ran out of time. This weekend we will get it upside down and back on the trailer so I can take it home and work on the bottom. I ordered graphite and plan to do 3-4 coats of epoxy 20-25 % graphite coating. I like to flounder gig and there will be some bottom scratches in the future.


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

Looks good man,


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

Got her turned over. The bottom needs some love and attention.


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

I sanded the bottom of the boat and found some battle wounds. I made a batch of wood flour peanut butter and filled any wounds worth filling. One will need a small fiberglass cloth/matt repair. Nothing serious. Then comes the 3-4 coats of epoxy/graphite. I am hoping that it self levels and hides all the imperfections. This is the year 1989 model skiff commercial grade boat for mullet and crab men. It was never meant to be pretty, just a work boat.


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## fishnpreacher (Jul 28, 2018)

What you've done looks good. I have a J16 with factory front and rear casting decks. The deck and upgrades you've made rival the factory work....looks great!


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

Fishnpreacher,
Thank you! My boat model is not in production. I tried to buy a deck but no luck. My diy deck is 3/8’s" marine ply with epoxy and fiberglass. Plus the custom top hatch. This allows me to get the castnet and anchor without kneeling to get through the bulkhead.


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## fishnpreacher (Jul 28, 2018)

This is my front deck. It has 3 top hatches and the 2 access areas in the face. The previous owner added dividers under the deck, separating each compartment. I'm set up primarily for fresh water striper, but hope to get it salty and slimy this summer.The rod holder between the 2 access holes is for a 6ft beach umbrella.


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

Cool , thanks for posting. What is the pvc pipe on the middle of the deck for?


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## fishnpreacher (Jul 28, 2018)

My batteries are under the console and the wire for the trolling motor is in it. The bottom slopes up underneath the deck, so the batteries level under the console.
I have a 12 gallon red plastic tank under the back platform. I had to cut an access hole in the deck to get to the gas cap, so it's a permanent mount now.


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

I got the sanding done and was hoping to bottom paint with graphite epoxy but Jacksonville is rainy for the next few days and I read to apply it as hot as possible so it flows and self levels


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

I have been able to do the graphite epoxy bottom coating. The black gets really hot and dries very fast. I have done 3-4 coats and it looks pretty good. It is very hard and self-levels like a bar top finish. Six years ago I used Rustoleum Topside and it held up very very well.
I may do it again. Last time I did the project at my Dad's shop and used a spray gun. This time I will need to roll and brush. I do remember that it took a long time for it to cure hard.

I am open to recommendations on paints that roll or brush well.


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

I purchased 2 part paints from blp mobile paints. I bought 2 part epoxy primer ($35 per gallon) and a two part polyurethane custom tinted for ($66 per gallon). I also had to buy special brush and roller thinner for ($14). I put down a coat of primer and it seems like great stuff. I will try and roll and tip the top coat early in the morning.


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

Man this weather has made painting outside tough. I finally got the first coat of topcoat. This stuff is a two part polyurethane and it rolls on really well with a bit of thinner.


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

After getting a second top coat on the outside of the boat and letting it cure for a few days we able to get it flipped over. I hope the rest of the project moves faster!!!


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

I feel really good about the BLP Mobile paints. They are two part and go off hard as a rock. The top coat is very shiny.


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## 17376 (May 5, 2017)

BLP paint is very good!! There is a group of guys who uses it a lot down around Tampa. It has to be sprayed bc the R and T method doesn’t work as well with it


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

I rolled and tipped the paint and it worked fine. I used the brushing reducer.


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## fishnpreacher (Jul 28, 2018)

Looking good! I have no doubt that your finished rig will be top quality.


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

The front half of the boat is new fiberglass with marine epoxy. Everything behind the new casting deck is Gelcoat I rolled on 6-7 yrs ago. Should I sand the entire inside of the boat with 80 grit and apply the 2 part epoxy primer, then roll on the two-part urethane topcoat with the shark bite anti-slip sand? I would like the boat to look uniform and the gel coat is stained and worn.


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## Guest (Jul 12, 2019)

Yes, prep everything as primer/paint manufacturer says for best results.


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

The manufacture directions are limited and I have never applied a coating over gelcoat


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## Guest (Jul 12, 2019)

If the primer is thick or a high build then 80gr should do. Knock all the shiny off. Good solvent wipe and maybe even some wax and grease remover. You can make the w & g remover by mixing 1part acetone, 2 parts isopropyl alcohol, and 1-2 parts distilled water. The water is needed as a wetter to keep it from evaporating before you can wipe with a clean rag.


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

I got to put a few hours in on the skiff today. Which mostly consist of waiting for things to dry. Apply epoxy, wait for it to dry. Mix 2 part paint, wait 30 minutes for it to set up, then paint it, then wait for it to dry.... you get the idea.

I was able to dill the transom holes for the CMC trim and tilt. Finding the center of a crooked boat is a pain but I got it. It would have been easier with a helper but with this heat and humidity, I was forced to do it solo.

After drilling the holes I removed the bracket to paint a primer and topcoat.
I plan on having the motor and console installed this weekend. Then the fun of rigging steering, shifter/throttle cables, and wiring all the goodies.


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

That will be a shallow drafting boat. Lots of fun. Are you planing a PP platform or cooler. The flat bottom won't be fun in big chop but great in creeks and flats


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

It does draft shallow. I will have a trolling motor. No plans for a polling platform yet. I mostly fish alone so polling platform would just be an expensive seat for me.


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Panamakid said:


> It does draft shallow. I will have a trolling motor. No plans for a polling platform yet. I mostly fish alone so polling platform would just be an expensive seat for me.


Just get a cooler that will hold you and pole from there. You need to pole to see more fish in skinny and your TM will not work in 5/6/7"


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

I was able to get the motor installed. The steering and shift cables will kind of dictate where the console needs to be installed.
I am hoping to install a small livewell near the transom. I would like to have the simplest possible pump setup.


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

View attachment 84646
Today I 5200 glued the teak to the deck for the center console. I may put fiberglass cloth over the teak depending on how well it glues to the deck.

The boat always had the large coffin bench seat. I would like a rear raised deck but the project is taking too long and I need to finish and get back on the water. Later I may make a deck if the bench seat bothers me.


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

I am trying to make custom deck tracks that will cover the rigging running from the console to the engine and stern


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

today I played hooky 1/2 day and worked a solid 6 hours in the hot sun. I built a wire channel to protect the on the deck gas line and cables, I also removed the console and put a solid 2-3 coats of High Build 2-part epoxy primer on the entire inside of the skiff, as well as the console and most of the bench seat. This weekend I hope to lightly sand the primer and apply 2-3 coats of top coat on the entire interior and console. Then I can start rewiring and reassembling.


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

Panamakid said:


> today I played hooky 1/2 day and worked a solid 6 hours in the hot sun. I built a wire channel to protect the on the deck gas line and cables, I also removed the console and put a solid 2-3 coats of High Build 2-part epoxy primer on the entire inside of the skiff, as well as the console and most of the bench seat. This weekend I hope to lightly sand the primer and apply 2-3 coats of top coat on the entire interior and console. Then I can start rewiring and reassembling.


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

Today I was able to paint for a few hours. Then it started raining during my last mixed 30 oz mix. I will have to do another coat or two when the sun comes back out. I really wanted to be done painting today. And Saturday shows rain all day. Hopefully I can complete this project soon.


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

Yesterday I applied a 2nd and 3rd inside coat to the boat. Today I installed the bench seat and rough fitted the console. I need to install all wiring and switches. The console houses a 14 gallon fuel tank that barley squeezes into the console. Does anyone have any ideas on having electrical wires inches from a gas tank ?


I also built the deck channel that hides and protects the cables, wiles and gas line.


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## Guest (Jul 30, 2019)

Panamakid said:


> View attachment 85842
> View attachment 85844
> View attachment 85846
> View attachment 85848
> ...


It’s not ideal, but CS and Sundance have been doing it that way for decades!


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

So while working on the boat one morning my wife went into labor (2 weeks early).
I quickly changed and rushed to the hospital. We now have a healthy baby boy to chase our 2.5 yr, old daughter. So time to work on the boat has been limited. But I was nearly done before his birth, so after bedtime, I put in a few hours of work. Remember this skiff was originally a tiller. So I had to rig everything from scratch or Frankenstein parts from craigslist. I did the wiring of all electronics, ignition relocated to consol, tilt and trim, plumbing new console-mounted fuel tank and filter/water separator. At this point, I am 90% complete.

In fact, I took it for a short test ride this afternoon. The motor ran rough but moved ok. I think part of the problem is the engine is now on a CMC trim bracket and it may be a bit too low creating drag. Also, the fuel tank is new and 6 ft farther away under the console. Plus, the new aftermarket water separator may be restricting fuel. Basically, the engine is acting like it is running on 2 out of 3 cylinders. It kind of feels like when I run it on old gas or gas that has water in it. I am sure I can get it tuned up with another water trial with a full toolbox.

I plan to add seadek non-skid or paint a kiwi grip or similar product. The deck is a bit slick and I would like to add some color contrast to all that blue.


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

sweet skiff man, I almost went for a carolina skiff myself.


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

Thank you. I look forward to getting everything dialed in and setup. So we can use it rather than work in it.


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

That’s the goal isn’t it ha


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## fishnpreacher (Jul 28, 2018)

Congrats on the newborn, and hope mom and baby are doing well. And congrats on a job well done on the skiff. I've been following and you've done a great job in your conversion. All it needs now is a coating of fish slime......Go Fish!


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

Yesterday was my birthday so I took off work and ran the boat with my brother. The engine ran rough on the first run and it turned out the amazon fuel water separator is made of plastics that are not resistant to gasoline. So I was getting air in the line. I went to west marine and bought a racor unit. The engine now runs smooth.


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

Had a chance to check out the 4 watt led that firecat recommended. I bought 6 but only used 4 and it’s plenty bright.


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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)




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## Panamakid (Oct 30, 2009)

So, I upgraded the outboard. The 2 stroke Tohatsu M40D 40HP has been the best motor I have ever owned. Only weighs 150 lbs, electric and pull start. Never let me down ever. 

But I stumbled across a low hours F50 Yamaha although it weighs 100 more lbs!! My 90" wide skiff doesnt seem to mind.


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## GaG8tor (Jul 8, 2019)

That boat is really nice, man. You did an awesome job.


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