# Spinning Reel Bearing Selection



## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

Replacing bearings in an old spinning reel -- has anyone ever used sealed bearings?

I've got an old Penn 440SSg that has some crunchy bearings in it. My buddy didn't want to mess with it, so I think I gave him 20 bucks or something for it. Anyway, I'm looking to replace the 16x8x5 steel bearings, but don't want to drop $10 a piece for stainless bearings. The reel sees minimal use each year, so I decided to go with regular steel bearings; I'm just trying to decide which ones.

Side note -- the bearings that were in the reel when I got it were regular carbon steel; not sure if that's from Penn or from a previous rebuild, but they lasted quite a while before getting crunchy. If these don't feel smooth for as long as I expect, I'll consider $10 a good price for the lesson learned and for buying me a few months/years.

The regular shielded bearings and the rubber sealed bearings are about the same price ($10 for a 10 pack), so I figure I'll go with the sealed bearings. Any reason not to? I realize I won't be able to clean/rebuild them if the reel gets dunked, and I'm fine with that. I'll have spares from the 10 pack, so I don't mind replacing them if that ever happens.

Any potential problems with normal usage in a spin reel? Any potential problems with reel grease/oil getting on the rubber and causing an issue? I can't think of anything off the top of my head, but I could definitely be overlooking something.

Thanks!


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## mike.s (Sep 4, 2015)

Nothing wrong with the shielded bearings they will work. I usually use a pin and if your careful you can remove the shield. I would pack them with a mix of penn reel grease and reel x. Place the shield back on and usually wouldn't have to service for the year even if dunked. The reel will be a little stiff if you use this packing technique.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

I’d just get the ten pack of Boca Lightnings and be done. I wouldn’t overthink it!


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## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

I've been repairing reels since I was taught the basics at Reef Tackle (my first shop - 1972....) and all I've ever used are the bearings the manufacturer specifies... There is a trick to it though.... Take any new bearing, shielded or not (I prefer shielded if that's what the specs call for) and carefully treat it before installation - the treatment consists of using good quality gun oil (Gunslik, Break Free, etc.), work it into the bearing (it will flow past the shields just fine - do it on both sides of the bearing, then spin the bearing a bit to make sure the race is coated -then carefully seal each side of the bearing with a good quality high temp grease (I use Kendall GT - it's blue in color, and I suspect it's the same stuff that reel makers sell in small tubs for five times the price of single can of Kendall's from the auto store...). What you're doing with the grease is two things -you're keeping the oil in and water out. You don't need a thick coat of grease on the outside - just enough to waterproof them...

I keep several heavy spinners on my skiff (usually four of them - along with another four light reels -Stradics and Battles....) - Penn 650SS and 750SS -then replaced them with 6500 and 7500 reels along with Daiwa BG 20's and one BG30... All in hard commercial service - and get five times the bearing life out of bearings treated any other way... All of this on reels that might be as much as thirty years old that have handled big tarpon, big sharks (up to around 300lbs) and everything else on a small open skiff. Each reel has three bearings and they're never babied, I just rinse them off with a light spray of freshwater at the end of every trip, back off the drags -then store them upright while still wet....


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