# Hollow core braid as backing - anything special when you first install?



## Hank (Jan 14, 2019)

Since braid like Power Pro, C16 and Threadlock don’t stretch much, is there any need for different knots or special techniques when you first put the backing on the spool?


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## sidelock (Jan 31, 2011)

My advise would be to do a cross over wind across the entire width of the spool just across and back quickly every so often when you spool it on to prevent it from digging in and getting under itself and wind it on reasonably tight. I personally like the Jerry Brown One 60 lbs. hollow spectra, it lays flat so its less likely to dig into itself, can be spliced and is easier on the fingers than some other braids.


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## TheAdamsProject (Oct 29, 2007)

I have been adding a little cortland micron before the threadlock.


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## Hank (Jan 14, 2019)

nativejax said:


> I have been adding a little cortland micron before the threadlock.


To give the backing some grip to the spool?


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## Hank (Jan 14, 2019)

To narrow this down - I am using Threadlock. I’ve got spliced connections worked out and now its time to install.


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

sidelock said:


> My advise would be to do a cross over wind across the entire width of the spool just across and back quickly every so often when you spool it on to prevent it from digging in and getting under itself and wind it on reasonably tight. I personally like the Jerry Brown One 60 lbs. hollow spectra, it lays flat so its less likely to dig into itself, can be spliced and is easier on the fingers than some other braids.


 I have no problems with the Threadlock binding down in itself with pressure. It lays wide and flat. Love the stuff! Thanks Nativejax for turning me onto it.

Hank, I haven't done any special putting it on the spool Whatever knot you would usually use for tying backing to the spool. I have one of my flylines tho where I cut the loop off of the running line end and pushed the running line inside the hollow core (pushed open). I carefully pushed it up about a foot (definitely wasn't easy without the appropriate size splice needle), then services the end (about an inch) and tighten up the hollow core. Then I Liquid Fusion'ed the serviced end and out about 3" on the hollow core. Dried over night and it is amazingly seamless. However, I did cut the hollow core out about 6ft from the running line, then tied in a large loop and the same size loop on the backing, so I can change out the fly line. Then I connected them back with a dbl handshake loop to loops connection and still, it sits pretty slim and it doesn't rack thru the guides.


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

Hank said:


> To narrow this down - I am using Threadlock. I’ve got spliced connections worked out and now its time to install.


Hank, do a "Search" on this fly board where I had a reply on a thread and I title the reply the "Backing Shootout" I used the most popular backings and most of the good ones, including all the hollow cores. I compared them all against each other on many different comparison and test. IMO, Threadlock was the best.


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## Hank (Jan 14, 2019)

Backwater said:


> I have no problems with the Threadlock binding down in itself with pressure. It lays wide and flat. Love the stuff! Thanks Nativejax for turning me onto it.
> 
> Hank, I haven't done any special putting it on the spool Whatever knot you would usually use for tying backing to the spool. I have one of my flylines tho where I cut the loop off of the running line end and pushed the running line inside the hollow core (pushed open). I carefully pushed it up about a foot (definitely wasn't easy without the appropriate size splice needle), then services the end (about an inch) and tighten up the hollow core. Then I Liquid Fusion'ed the serviced end and out about 3" on the hollow core. Dried over night and it is amazingly seamless. However, I did cut the hollow core out about 6ft from the running line, then tied in a large loop and the same size loop on the backing, so I can change out the fly line. Then I connected them back with a dbl handshake loop to loops connection and still, it sits pretty slim and it doesn't rack thru the guides.


Yes, I have my 10 set up this way. 80 lb Threadlock spliced onto the back of the fly line and then a spliced loop to allow easy changes. Although I gotta say that simply running all 80 just spliced to the fly line is attractive for utter simplicity.

I think I’ve read every thread on here about braided lines and fly tackle. Over in the thread on braided loops that I started, I will have some more photos posted soon showing some of the things I’ve tried and what I’ve chosen.


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## Hank (Jan 14, 2019)

nativejax said:


> I have been adding a little cortland micron before the threadlock.


To build a bed with grip to the spool? 
Or?


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## numbskull (Jan 30, 2019)

When using braid on spinning or conventional tackle with smooth arbor spools it is standard practice to either put a short shot of mono or dacron line on first or to use some waterproof tape over the arbor loop to provide grip (Shimano used to ship their high end reels with small tape patches for this very purpose), otherwise the whole mass of line can slip and rotate under load. This issue seems unlikely on lighter fly tackle with light drag loads but might be an issue on bigger game stuff.


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## sidelock (Jan 31, 2011)

To be more specific on my big reels the first 50 yards or so of JB that attaches to the fly line is a #100 lb. "topshot" with another short 12" piece inserted inside it about two feet from the end to form the spliced loop. In other words the 6" loop at the end will be double in thickness. The first 50 yards of the backing is most likely to be handled with your fingers if any at all hence #100 over #60. I then splice the other end of the #100 to the #60 making that splice about 3' long. The loops and splices are dipped into a solution of one part Liquid Fusion to two parts water and hung to dry.
I learned this from a weathered Aussie that spend his entire lifetime on the water chasing serious fish !
I'm not familiar with all the braids out there but I know that some of them feel like a rat tail file and can cut into your fingers like one too but the JB I'm familiar with is silky smooth. Having said that it's not something you find at your local Walmart so the price may scare some people away.


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## TheAdamsProject (Oct 29, 2007)

Hank said:


> To build a bed with grip to the spool?
> Or?


Honestly depends on the purpose of the reel. Sometimes I use Micron to lessen the amount of threadlock and cost and only topshot 50 or 100yds with threadlock. Sometimes I put 50yds of micro and then load threadlock just because of how slick it is and gives me extra confidence and stuck in my ways. Plus that last 50yds would be an emergency wake up call and you know exactly what you have left. Just my experiences


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