# Project Boat - 1969 Seal Craft Tri-hull rebuild



## eagle24 (Jan 4, 2016)

As if I needed more to work on and keep me from progressing as fast on the skiff I am building, I bought a project boat today. It's a 14' 1969 Seal Craft. The beam is 61". Good solid little boat that I would like to spruce up and modify somewhat. Sorry for the bad pics, it was dark when I got home with it this afternoon. What I think I would like to do is cut out everything inside the hull and go back with a front deck that is lower and extends farther back and a back deck that is a good height for sitting while running the motor. There are some cracks in the fiberglass on the inside of the boat and also some fiberglass strands in places that will stab you if you run your hand across the inside of the hull. Can I grind out and fix the places that need repair, and the places where I cut out the deck and seats? Then sand the inside and put a layer of woven cloth on with epoxy resin? After that, build my new decks and glass them in with epoxy resin?


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Yes, you can sand off stabby stray strands. I recommend a layer of biax cloth to the inside. I am currently adding 12oz biax with epoxy to my skiff... I also added several coats of epoxy mixed with graphite to the underside of the hull. If anything it's more peace of mind that it won't completely shred to pieces at wot.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Also, it looks like it has a sole. Maybe check to see if there is water in the floatation foam and/or stringers (and maybe the transom) since these old boats prob have wood in them somewhere...


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## eagle24 (Jan 4, 2016)

yobata said:


> Also, it looks like it has a sole. Maybe check to see if there is water in the floatation foam and/or stringers (and maybe the transom) since these old boats prob have wood in them somewhere...


It does have a sole. How do I go about determining if there is water in the flotation foam or transom? My initial feeling is that the hull is pretty solid. The transom appears really solid and looks like it has never been repaired. Also, this boat was manufactured in 1969 per the TN registration (current through Aug 2016). It does not have a hull identification number. The TN registration card has a place for the hull id #, but it is blank. The person I bought the boat from is on the current registration. Apparently, and according to the seller, TN did not require a hull id # on boats manufactured prior to 1972. Best I can tell, this boat never had a hull id plate. I guess I need to check the requirements for AL and see what the process is for getting the registration transferred. Not sure what AL requires on a 1969 model boat. May have to apply for a inspection to get a hull id #.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

one way to check is to make a few test holes - which can be a scary proposal if you have not done it before. You can also check the drain at the bottom of the transom to see if it is wet - the brass ferrule that sat in the back drain of my boat was not properly bedded, and once I pulled it out (which was too easy to do) I saw that the transom was wet. I have heard of some people drilling a small hole near the back of the boat at a low spot and waiting overnight to see if the foam leaks...

Or you can not worry about it and just go fishing  

Also, on the last photo it looks like the little bracket at the transom is riveted - that could be a potential water intrusion point....


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## eagle24 (Jan 4, 2016)

yobata said:


> one way to check is to make a few test holes - which can be a scary proposal if you have not done it before. You can also check the drain at the bottom of the transom to see if it is wet - the brass ferrule that sat in the back drain of my boat was not properly bedded, and once I pulled it out (which was too easy to do) I saw that the transom was wet. I have heard of some people drilling a small hole near the back of the boat at a low spot and waiting overnight to see if the foam leaks...
> 
> Or you can not worry about it and just go fishing
> 
> Also, on the last photo it looks like the little bracket at the transom is riveted - that could be a potential water intrusion point....


Well, first I discovered the rear bench seat was rotten on the right side where some holes had been drilled. I was going to remove it and install a rear deck anyway.

Then I found this second hole and drain plug in the sole, but not all the way through the hull. Is this normal for old boats like this?


So I poked around a bit and found some soft spots. Started out tearing the rotten sole up from the bottom, then began to cut with the multi tool. No flotation foam underneath, just air space.


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## eagle24 (Jan 4, 2016)

Couple of questions. Should I cut out and replace the entire sole? Should I put foam under the new sole? Should I cut out the middle seat and front deck now, or do I need to leave it for structural support in case I have to replace the transom? or would it make much difference?


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## jdpber1 (Aug 21, 2013)

I would Foam under the new sole so that you gain some rigidity and SAFETY buoyancy.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

I would replace the entire sole.

If you put foam under there you will be guaranteed to get waterlogged foam in the future.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

I left my seats in while I replaced the transom. Then I left the middle seat in while building up the front and rear bulkheads. I did this so that I didn't need to brace the hull with straps while working... 

I am putting in some foam under the rear and front decks. It's a coast guard requirement (aLthough I am not required to get my skiff inspected), and it helps in case I decide to sell down the road...


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## eagle24 (Jan 4, 2016)

yobata said:


> I left my seats in while I replaced the transom. Then I left the middle seat in while building up the front and rear bulkheads. I did this so that I didn't need to brace the hull with straps while working...
> 
> I am putting in some foam under the rear and front decks. It's a coast guard requirement (aLthough I am not required to get my skiff inspected), and it helps in case I decide to sell down the road...


Well, it's too late to leave mine in. I will wait to remove the remainder where they were tabbed into the sides, so I can screw a 1x6 to them and brace across.


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## eagle24 (Jan 4, 2016)

DuckNut said:


> I would replace the entire sole.
> 
> If you put foam under there you will be guaranteed to get waterlogged foam in the future.


If I don't put foam, what is the best way to do this? Glass both sides of the plywood sole, then glass it in and completely seal the space between the sole and the hull?


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

eagle24 said:


> If I don't put foam, what is the best way to do this? Glass both sides of the plywood sole, then glass it in and completely seal the space between the sole and the hull?


I would do it this way with or without the foam... I use thickened epoxy to bed and fill the side gaps where the sole will meet the hull, then tabbed the sides in...


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## eagle24 (Jan 4, 2016)

A little more cutting and cleaning. I think the transom is ok, but I'm not really sure how to check it.


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## tomahawk (Mar 9, 2012)

Drill some holes through it, if its good seal them back up with thickened epoxy. It would be some sort of miracle if a 46 year old transom was still solid in a small skiff like that, especially if you've already found rot/wet wood in it.


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## eagle24 (Jan 4, 2016)

tomahawk said:


> Drill some holes through it, if its good seal them back up with thickened epoxy. It would be some sort of miracle if a 46 year old transom was still solid in a small skiff like that, especially if you've already found rot/wet wood in it.


The transom sits on the high ridges of the tri-hull. It feels really solid poking the underside of the transom with an angled pic (like a dental pic). Surprisingly, there wasn't all that much rot. The rear seat was understandable, water got inside where holes were drilled and rotted the seat. The sole was surprisingly solid really only the rear 3 feet had to be replaced. There was moisture underneath, but not water. Guy I got the boat from said it had never been left outside, but I agree that it will be a miracle if the transom has no rot. I'll cut into it from the inside with a wood bit in some places. I should be able to tell if there is rot without drilling through the outer skin.


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## eagle24 (Jan 4, 2016)

Transom is good. Hard to believe, but I'm comfortable that it is not rotten.


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## eagle24 (Jan 4, 2016)

Pretty much have all the bad stuff gone. I just need to get it prepped for the new sole.


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## tomahawk (Mar 9, 2012)

Well thats good news....Why in the world did you stop on the Chalmette? I'll admit to having ADD but not on a project like that, thats when my OCD kicks in


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## eagle24 (Jan 4, 2016)

tomahawk said:


> Well thats good news....Why in the world did you stop on the Chalmette? I'll admit to having ADD but not on a project like that, thats when my OCD kicks in


Well, I haven't completely stopped on the Chalmette. I'm a fisherman first and I guess I see this glass hull as the fastest one to get on the water with. Not that I'm going to throw this one together, but I also really want to do a Tricked Out job on the Chalmette. I'll have some pics posted in the next few weeks of the Chalmette. I want to get the bottom on it and the hull glassed. On this boat, I believe I can do the things I want to do to it and be fishing out of it in a month.


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## eagle24 (Jan 4, 2016)

Inside is ready for the new sole.

Flipped the hull over and spent all afternoon scrubbing the hull clean. Got started with the sanding. How in the world do you mark the waterline on a tri-hull? I'm going with an epoxy and graphite mix for the bottom paint.


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## eagle24 (Jan 4, 2016)

Sand, sand, sand, sand, take a break, sand, sand, sand, sand, SANDED!


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## eagle24 (Jan 4, 2016)

I decided to paint the bottom this afternoon. It took a lot longer than I anticipated to get the tape anything close to right. My roller choice was not too good. It looks like I applied it with a 1" nap roller. I'll scuff it down and wash it and apply a few more coats of the epoxy/graphite. I really don't plan on spending a lot of time on cosmetics. I just want it to be a good solid fishing boat.


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## eagle24 (Jan 4, 2016)

Quick Fair to fill the spots that needed filling and 4 hours of sanding. I plan to put 1 more coat of epoxy/graphite on the bottom, then prime the sides and transom, block the primer and apply the paint.


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## eagle24 (Jan 4, 2016)

Flipping it over tomorrow to start on the inside.


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## Justin Hunt (Apr 28, 2016)

Nice work I am so happy I ran across your thread. I bought a 1972 seal-craft back in August. It is in great shape. I am getting ready to start sanding it down to try to bring back the finish. Any tips would be welcomed. I am also trying to decide what size outboard to put on it. Any suggestions? I have searched and searched trying to find some info/background on these boat and keep coming up empty. Do you know much about them? Thanks can't wait to follow your progress


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## Justin Hunt (Apr 28, 2016)

View media item 777


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## eagle24 (Jan 4, 2016)

Justin Hunt said:


> Nice work I am so happy I ran across your thread. I bought a 1972 seal-craft back in August. It is in great shape. I am getting ready to start sanding it down to try to bring back the finish. Any tips would be welcomed. I am also trying to decide what size outboard to put on it. Any suggestions? I have searched and searched trying to find some info/background on these boat and keep coming up empty. Do you know much about them? Thanks can't wait to follow your progress


Justin, I couldn't find anything on them either. I got mine from a guy just north of Knoxville, TN. It had this sticker on it, and this is about all I know about them.


I'm going to put a 20hp Suzuki 4-stroke on mine. The Suzuki manual start EFI 4-stroke 9.9, 15, & 20 are all the same motor and all weigh 97lbs. I'm going with the 20hp because I think I will prefer having the 20 down the road. IMO, a 15hp would be plenty and about perfect for the boat. If you planned to use it mostly by yourself, a 9.9 would probably be adequate.


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## Justin Hunt (Apr 28, 2016)

Yeah my boat came from Asheville,NC. I was also thinking 15 would be about perfect.


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## noeettica (Sep 23, 2007)

Nice to see these coming back to life 

I have a similar hull for sale


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## eagle24 (Jan 4, 2016)

I got the new transom core bedded in. Tonight I tabbed in the sole with 12oz biaxial tape.


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## eagle24 (Jan 4, 2016)

Close to done with this sows ear.


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