# PVC tiller extension?



## firecat1981

I was trying to make a PVC tiller extension for my Yamaha f20, but I'm running into an issue. The handle on the new yamaha's are thicker then my old outboards.
I first tried 1.5" schedule 40, wasn't even close so I cut some slits in the sides and dipped it in boiling water. I was able to get it on but the slits spread very unevenly and doesn't look very good at all. 
Next i tried 2" which was much bigger then I need. I dipped it in the boiling water and tried to crushed it down into shape, but it was still to big and allowed alot of play. So I'm stuck in the middle here, 1.75" would be perfect, even 1 5/8" but they don't have either if those.
So....? anyone got a tip on how they did it well?

I was really going to just do it to make sure what legnth I like and maybe order a better one next year.


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## Brett

Thin wall irrigation pvc pipe worked for me 

You can build up the interior diameter with sections of the thin wall pvc.

https://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/TillerExtension


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## anytide

Fcat -send me the tiller twist grip dimensions and i'll make you some boots. 
length x diameter-both ends if tapered.
what are you using for the shaft/arm or whatever its called?
-anytide


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## firecat1981

Brett, did you ever find the thin walled pipe wasn't strong enough? I have some that will most likely be a perfect fit

Tide, I don't want to trouble you for such a simple thing as I will be pestering you as soon as I fix my trolling motor mount. 

I was going to taper it down to a 1" pipe and put a grip on the end, maybe even foam fill it. I just want to make it and take a few runs and see how it feels.


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## Brett

Been running the 9.9 Merc for a year now with the thinwall pvc, no problems.
I have 3 extensions, short, medium and long. The one I use depends on passenger weight.
The heavier the load up front the shorter the extension so my position balances the hull.
With the longest extension I can sit on the cooler and control the outboard.


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## firecat1981

I'll give it a shot and see what happens, thanks.


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## anytide

> Brett, did you ever find the thin walled pipe wasn't strong enough? I have some that will most likely be a perfect fit
> 
> Tide, I don't want to trouble you for such a simple thing as I will be pestering you as soon as I fix my trolling motor mount.
> 
> I was going to taper it down to a 1" pipe and put a grip on the end, maybe even foam fill it. I just want to make it and take a few runs and see how it feels.


 -nothing would make me happier 
-anytide


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## anytide

> I was trying to make a PVC tiller extension for my Yamaha f20, but I'm running into an issue. The handle on the new yamaha's are thicker then my old outboards.
> I first tried 1.5" schedule 40, wasn't even close so I cut some slits in the sides and dipped it in boiling water. I was able to get it on but the slits spread very unevenly and doesn't look very good at all.
> Next i tried 2" which was much bigger then I need. I dipped it in the boiling water and tried to crushed it down into shape, but it was still to big and allowed alot of play. So I'm stuck in the middle here, 1.75" would be perfect, even 1 5/8" but they don't have either if those.
> So....? anyone got a tip on how they did it well?
> 
> I was really going to just do it to make sure what legnth I like and maybe order a better one next year.


---sorry Fcat - i should have just answered your ? -use a heat gun.
its tricky to say the least, i make molds/templates then form the different plastics over them for the desired shape...
sometimes do it in stages and move down the boot because heating the hole thing will cause it to collapse on you when pushing it over the form 
good luck -offer still exists 
-anytide


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## DuckNut

1.5" Schedule 40 pvc pipe is 1.9" o.d. and 1.6" i.d versus 1.5 pvc tube at 1.9" o.d. and 1.795 i.d.

Pipe is measured inside diameter and tube is measured outside diameter.

Find TUBE - plastics joint on hwy 60 in Brandon or anytide might be able to assist.


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## firecat1981

I got it done, I stole some ideas from Brett and it worked out ok. The only issue is it needs to be 6 inches longer, but it is rock solid. I filled the 1" section with 2 part foam, not sure if it did anything. I hammer coated it and put some tennis racquet tape on the handle.


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## cvilt

Anytide is the "Man" he hooked me up good. Bret I made a fiberglass expendable tiller extension from a pole saw that would go from 4' to a little over 6' I could run my 15t from almost the front deck. To scary for me  I cut it down and gave it to a friend.


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## Flounder_Joe

First off Brett that is one bada.. skiff. I like the natural wood look plain and simple. Firecat I understand what you did on the one inch side but I dont understand how you coulped them together I'm not seeing a reduce? Can you explain as I'm going to need one in the near future.


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## Brett

Thanks FJ, been using it for 3 years now.   

That joint on FC's extension looks to be a bushing and coupling combination.
Available at your local hardware or home improvement store.


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## Flounder_Joe

Thanks Brett I think I know which ones you mean, I'll check on my next trip to HD or Lowes.


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## noeettica

I have these really nice bell adapters made for me 


I have a few available 1.5 x 1 or 1.25 x 1 

PM me if interested ...


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## firecat1981

Noettica, I'm going to take up a collection for you, so you can buy a can of spray paint and shoot that ugly thing already, lol.

I had to make a new extension since mine was a little short so here is how it went.

First I glued the cap on the 1" pipe then filled it with foam, it's not really needed but since I had it left over I figured why not.









Here are the parts for the joint.
From left to right: 1.5" thin walled PVC pipe, 1.5" coupling, 1.5" to 1" bushing, and a 1" schedule 40 pipe.









Here it is glued together









and here is the spacer for the tip of the handle.









I'm hammer coating it now and will wrap the end again in wilsons tape when finished. This extension is about 7.5" longer then the last one, which was usable but to short to be confortable.


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## [email protected]

> Been running the 9.9 Merc for a year now with the thinwall pvc, no problems.
> I have 3 extensions, short, medium and long. The one I use depends on passenger weight.
> The heavier the load up front the shorter the extension so my position balances the hull.
> With the longest extension I can sit on the cooler and control the outboard.


Thats one nice looking boat. [smiley=1-thumbsup1.gif]


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## Flounder_Joe

FC I've read a couple of times you state your are hammeer coating what is it?


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## anytide

rustoleum "hammered" spray can paint
-


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## firecat1981

Yep, it's just spray paint that has a semi orange peel kind of texture to it. It hides alot of imperfections.


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## noeettica

*"Ghetto" tiller*

Here is a shot of my Yamaha tiller extension  

It is held on by One stainless screw ...

Heat formed to fit Yamaha's Original casting perfectly ...


Guess what  that's all Yamaha uses to secure the Original Tiller ...


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## noeettica

*"Ghetto" tiller*

Here is another shot of a "Ghetto" Tiller  with a little Wilson tape ...


I embrace it's "ugliness" LOL


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## firecat1981

looks much better in white with the grip tape. I have been using the wilsons tape for everything lately. 
I didn't think to remove the rubber grip, did you use 1.25" pipe for that? Did doing that remove some of the play?

PS I have a spare can of hammer coat, I'll drop it in the mail if you need it


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## Flounder_Joe

Bret and FC thanks for all the info on the tiller ext. I went to hd today stood right there and fitted it up perfect, while explaining to my wife what I was doing the guy in the plumbing dept looked at me like I was crazy, I replied how I came about the idea explaining from a bunch of guys I chat with about skinny water boats, again I got that look, so I asked just to add to his confusion where do keep the hammered paint, you should have seen his face. Any way I found it just as you said but they didnt have Johnson white, bought black when I repaint the motor I I'll paint it to. Thanks guys. Keep em coming, I'm learning alot.


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## Danelt10

firecat1981 said:


> Noettica, I'm going to take up a collection for you, so you can buy a can of spray paint and shoot that ugly thing already, lol.
> 
> I had to make a new extension since mine was a little short so here is how it went.
> 
> First I glued the cap on the 1" pipe then filled it with foam, it's not really needed but since I had it left over I figured why not.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Here are the parts for the joint.
> From left to right: 1.5" thin walled PVC pipe, 1.5" coupling, 1.5" to 1" bushing, and a 1" schedule 40 pipe.
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> Here it is glued together
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> 
> and here is the spacer for the tip of the handle.
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> 
> I'm hammer coating it now and will wrap the end again in wilsons tape when finished. This extension is about 7.5" longer then the last one, which was usable but to short to be confortable.


hey firecat thanks for the pics. I did the same but with 2" and beefed it up with tape. and i went with 1.5 hamdle. How did you get the 1.5 thin wall over the handle? your tiller looks slick. i have a brand new 15hp yammy on a lt10. Unsure if i want to put a sch 40 handle on. seems like alot of weight.


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## firecat1981

Danelt10 said:


> hey firecat thanks for the pics. I did the same but with 2" and beefed it up with tape. and i went with 1.5 hamdle. How did you get the 1.5 thin wall over the handle? your tiller looks slick. i have a brand new 15hp yammy on a lt10. Unsure if i want to put a sch 40 handle on. seems like alot of weight.


If I get what you mean then I just cut a slot in the bottom and heat formed it over. It took some time, but worked well.

Edit: I realized this was the first one I made, which got snapped when I left it up while driving out of the garage. On this one I needed that spacer and cut out a good wide slot to fit the tiller. On the new one I cut 2 slots and heat formed it to fit the tiller nicely.


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## Danelt10

firecat1981 said:


> If I get what you mean then I just cut a slot in the bottom and heat formed it over. It took some time, but worked well.


so 1 cut and a heat gun and slowly push it on? and is that a piece of 1.5 at the tip?


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## firecat1981

Yes, once its on far enough reheat it and form it around the handle with a gloved hand. The tip I think is just a 1" cap.


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## Danelt10

Well it turned out great. Too bad im not in lakeland. You seem to have it down.


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## Danelt10

I'm talking about the piece that is on the tip of the tiller. you didn't use that when you made your second one? I am at Home Depot right now. So I need thin wall 1 and 1/2 in a 1 and 1/2 inch coupler a one and a half to 1 inch reducer and a piece of 1 inch schedule 40? absolutely nothing else?


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## firecat1981

Danelt10 said:


> I'm talking about the piece that is on the tip of the tiller. you didn't use that when you made your second one? I am at Home Depot right now. So I need thin wall 1 and 1/2 in a 1 and 1/2 inch coupler a one and a half to 1 inch reducer and a piece of 1 inch schedule 40? absolutely nothing else?


Just the 1" cap to finish off the end where your hand goes.


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