# Backing for Tarpon Reel



## mturner560 (Mar 13, 2014)

Looking change out backing on Tarpon reel. Have always gone with classic Cortland 30lb micron. Any recommendations for anything other? Capacity is not a huge issues as reel will hold 250 yds of 30lb.


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## ifsteve (Jul 1, 2010)

Lots of opinions. I favor braid not so much for the extra capacity but for keeping spool diameter large to give me a better retrieve rate. 50 or 65# is what I use.


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## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

Look at the splicing backing post toward the bottom of the page. I'm getting ready to setup a reel for my 12 wt, it will have power pro hollow ace.
I personally wouldn't use a solid braid on a tarpon reel, it will cut you fairly easy.


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## kenb (Aug 21, 2015)

mturner560 said:


> Looking change out backing on Tarpon reel. Have always gone with classic Cortland 30lb micron. Any recommendations for anything other? Capacity is not a huge issues as reel will hold 250 yds of 30lb.


I way prefer the classic that you're already using...just feels better to me.


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## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

Since I've been around fly gear for a lot of years I'm a classic 30lb braid backing type (using any standard braid -preferring Micron when I can get it in bulk….). Before you toss your old backing, though, if you still have enough backing (many times I reload backing because I've lost a good bit of it to a fish in some nameless river or other…) then you do have another option. No matter how stained your backing is (mildew, etc.) it won't be weakened a bit since it's a synthetic and can't rot at all. Many times rather than replace my backing I'll simply reverse it -winding onto another spool, then another, before re-loading it on the reel. Works like a charm since the part of your backing that gets a lot of wear is only the first 100 yards - the bottom portion is like it just came off a new spool of line….


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## coconutgroves (Sep 23, 2013)

lemaymiami said:


> Since I've been around fly gear for a lot of years I'm a classic 30lb braid backing type (using any standard braid -preferring Micron when I can get it in bulk….). Before you toss your old backing, though, if you still have enough backing (many times I reload backing because I've lost a good bit of it to a fish in some nameless river or other…) then you do have another option. No matter how stained your backing is (mildew, etc.) it won't be weakened a bit since it's a synthetic and can't rot at all. Many times rather than replace my backing I'll simply reverse it -winding onto another spool, then another, before re-loading it on the reel. Works like a charm since the part of your backing that gets a lot of wear is only the first 100 yards - the bottom portion is like it just came off a new spool of line….


Bob - reversing the backing is a great idea. Half of backing never sees the light of day.

@el9surf made a point about Power Pro Hollow Ace in an recent thread. I am going to give that a try.

On my current setup, I have Hatch backing. It's 68lb, soft to the touch and lays down nice on the reel. The Power Pro is supposed be similar, though I have not yet tried it myself.

While 30lb will work, why not at least be loaded for bear? Go at least 50lb. You are fishing for one the baddest mofos in the sea and anything can happen. I'd rather have a little more strength when things go wrong.


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## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

coconutgroves said:


> Bob - reversing the backing is a great idea. Half of backing never sees the light of day.
> 
> @el9surf made a point about Power Pro in an recent thread. I am going to give that a try.
> 
> ...


Just to clarify it's the power pro hollow ace that I was mentioning. The normal power pro will cut your finger off.


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

lemaymiami said:


> Since I've been around fly gear for a lot of years I'm a classic 30lb braid backing type (using any standard braid -preferring Micron when I can get it in bulk….). Before you toss your old backing, though, if you still have enough backing (many times I reload backing because I've lost a good bit of it to a fish in some nameless river or other…) then you do have another option. No matter how stained your backing is (mildew, etc.) it won't be weakened a bit since it's a synthetic and can't rot at all. Many times rather than replace my backing I'll simply reverse it -winding onto another spool, then another, before re-loading it on the reel. Works like a charm since the part of your backing that gets a lot of wear is only the first 100 yards - the bottom portion is like it just came off a new spool of line….


I seem to be that kinda guy that tries to get a full life outta something before I toss it. Nobody suggested or taught me to do it, but it's been a practice of mine for many years reversing line to get extra life out of it. From my mono days with spinning, baitcasters and conventional gear, to super braids on my spinning gear and fly line backing, today. So great advise on that Bob!

Normally, I use 30lb Micron as well. Not sayin I wouldn't try something else tho.


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## Blue Zone (Oct 22, 2011)

ifsteve said:


> Lots of opinions. I favor braid not so much for the extra capacity but for keeping spool diameter large to give me a better retrieve rate. 50 or 65# is what I use.


Steve, not criticizing but just asking. Why would you want your backing @ 50 or 60#; surely that has to be much higher than the weakest link at the terminal end?


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## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

For 


Blue Zone said:


> Steve, not criticizing but just asking. Why would you want your backing @ 50 or 60#; surely that has to be much higher than the weakest link at the terminal end?


Just guessing but likely for the same reason I use the 60 lb hollow ace. I want enough diameter in the backing and with braid you have to go to 60 to get enough diameter that it's not a danger to your fingers. Whether the backing is 30 lb dacron or 60 lb braid of some sort, the tippet should be the weak link.


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## jsnipes (May 1, 2011)

el9surf said:


> For
> 
> 
> Just guessing but likely for the same reason I use the 60 lb hollow ace. I want enough diameter in the backing and with braid you have to go to 60 to get enough diameter that it's not a danger to your fingers. Whether the backing is 30 lb dacron or 60 lb braid of some sort, the tippet should be the weak link.


Haha, that and sometimes I use straight 60 as a leader


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## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

jsnipes said:


> Haha, that and sometimes I use straight 60 as a leader


Maybe I'm in the minority but I want a breaking point in front of my fly line in case I need to pop a fish off.


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## coconutgroves (Sep 23, 2013)

I usually run a 40-30-tippet, or 50-40-tippet to give me something weaker to break if needed (that's butt-class-tippet, btw). I am not out to get any records, I want to release the fish quickly. That way I change out tippet depending on how the fish are acting. I've had guides want to run straight and I persuade them to at least run a lesser class in case we need to break off.


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

jsnipes said:


> Haha, that and sometimes I use straight 60 as a leader


Why?


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

coconutgroves said:


> I usually run a 40-30-tippet, or 50-40-tippet to give me something weaker to break if needed (that's butt-class-tippet, btw). I am not out to get any records, I want to release the fish quickly. That way I change out tippet depending on how the fish are acting. I've had guides want to run straight and I persuade them to at least run a lesser class in case we need to break off.


Why?


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## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

One of the few drawbacks to the super braids is that you can get a much stronger line for a given diameter with it… Why is that a drawback in my view? Easy - it simply allows the user to put a lot more pressure on his gear than it may be able to take…. For fly fishing, remember that your fly line is only 30lb breaking strength (although as I write this I'm certain that some manufacturers have figured out a way to may "their" lines a lot stronger than 30lb (but will your gear hold up to the much greater pressure heavier lines can pass along?). Similarly, in spin or plug casting reels "will your gear stand up to the added force?" I'm hearing about reel stems breaking on spinning reels and gear sets on both spin and plug wearing out early (or giving out in the middle of the fight…. Is that sport fishing? I wonder…

I have one river spot with big, big tarpon where we've lost three fly lines (and on one occasion 150 yards of backing) - and that's with no more than a 20lb tippet with a short trace of 80lb fluoro…. Yes, we could have used much heavier braid backing -but I'm convinced it wouldn't have changed the outcome in each case (in that small river all the fish has to do is run around the nearest bend or under the nearest downed tree and you're in bad trouble (and fly lines aren't cheap to replace -even at wholesale..).


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## jsnipes (May 1, 2011)

Backwater said:


> Why?


1) If I am not fishing a class tippet, just assume not have any knots in the leader and having as clean a presentation as possible. (Same goes for using 50, 40, 30 etc as needed).

2) Little bit of laziness

Also think people underestimate how strong fly lines are / how easy it is to pop a fish off even with a heavy leader.


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## coconutgroves (Sep 23, 2013)

Backwater said:


> Why?


I had a lot in there, what part you asking about? Why do I run that type of system? What's the issue with it?


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## ifsteve (Jul 1, 2010)

Blue Zone said:


> Steve, not criticizing but just asking. Why would you want your backing @ 50 or 60#; surely that has to be much higher than the weakest link at the terminal end?


Yes the 50-60# braid is more finger friendly and lays on the spool better than 30# braid. I started using braid over dacron about 10 years ago chasing tuna. The thinner diameter is HUGE for long running fish like bluefin or yellowfin. Maintain higher retrieve rates and when you have 400 yards of 30# dacron out in the water that is a lot of drag and can lead to broken tippets. I just liked the stuff so over the years as my reels needed backing replaced I just kept using the braid.


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## sjrobin (Jul 13, 2015)

As long as you have a 20# circuit breaker it doesn't matter what your backing test is. I would not use more than 20# because I would not like to lose or break fly lines or break rods, because sometimes you can not control the amount of pressure a fish puts on your equipment. I guess it sounds really cool to say the fish took my fly line or broke my rod instead of the leader snapped at 20#.


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

Not trying to get away from the OP, I wanted to address the home boy leader thing from jsnipes and coconutgroves. Guys, don't take this personally since I kinda like you.  But all you other boys and girls out there. I'm about to get on my soap box here, not just to address what you two said, but so many others out there that are afraid to step up and go with a leader system, especially for tarpon that has been refined over decades of use, for so many reasons.

As what Capt LeMay and sjrobin said, anything north of 20lb test class tippet and you run the risk of breaking something. At best, the most I'd go to if stealth weren't an issue and needed the extra abrasion resistance (docks, bridges and very tight mangrove cover for big poons, then 30lbs would be my absolute top limit. But normally, it's 20. I've also taken many big tarpon on less than that, but generally, I stick with 20lb. sjrobin called it a circuit breaker, I like to refer to it as a "fuse." Even that, I'll go up to 3ft in length for extra stealthiness but normally run the tippet about 2ft in lenght.

Have you ever even tried to break off 30lb tippet with a fly rod? It's not fun, not to mention a homeboy leader/tippet rig of 40-60lbs. I really doubt you can break off 60lb fluorocarbon off without breaking something. Heck, I've seen reel seats breaking and taking out the 1st stripping guide with only 20lb tippet. Most flylines are not rated much over 30-40lbs and a good lines are not cheap. A good rod is not cheap either! Start breaking them and your start thinking twice about using your homeboy leader. If you want a knotless leader, then go to a 20lb class tapered leader and tie on a bite leader on the end. Don't call a homeboy leader a 40-60lb class tippet leader cause it's a "no class" leader!

How much pressure do you think you can put on a 12wt, giving it everything you've got?  I doubt you can put on 10lbs of pressure, maybe only 6-8 tops! What? You don't believe me? Try tying your butt leader or homeboy rig up to a digital scale and go back about 30ft and give it all you have while your buddy watches the numbers. You'd be surprised, I promise you! 

Trust me when I say you can put all the pressure you want (if you can) on a big poon with 20lb tippet. I've whipped them plenty quick enough. You just have to learn high pressure fighting techniques. You guys out there that let the fish flounder around out there and let the fish stalemate you, are the ones who will loose your fish and even kill them cause your playin around, not getting with it and getting that fish in. Don't blame it on the tippet, blame it on yourself!

So then what? You're gonna say it's about working them in faster or about the abrasion resistance? Your bite ltippet/shock leader takes care of anything around the mouth of course and the butt section of the leader handles any tail wacking. Between the gill plate and tail is a clean smooth ace of the fish. If you are worried about the fish rolling up the leader around his head, then quit floundering around and keep that pressure on him to avoid that. As far as exterior abrasion resistance, tarpon will usually swim out and away from structure and not try to dog you around things like snook do, not saying if you hook them in a tight creek or river that they wouldn't jump up into the bushes, but that's not normally the case.

Let's look at another factor. Are you sayin you're trying to hook them on fly because you want to elevate your fishing skill set and level of achievement? So you want to do it on fly. But you want to do it with straight 60 and then when you do manage to catch one that way, you are saying to yourself and others that "now you are on their same level and you accomplished that high level?" Is that the true sport of fly fishing with proper fly fishing gear that makes it the challenge to strive for?? Nahhh, not hardly!  Almost an insult to those who prep and chase them for years until they finally catch one on fly the right way. THAT, is real achievement! Go home and go back to hooking them on conventional gear with cut mullet, **** pops or break away jigs!! Might as well chum the water before you throw that fly in, or squirt scent on that fly or heck, tie on a 72m Mirrorlure or a threadfin on a hook and chuck it out there on your fly rod. My point is, do it right or go home, cause your not proving anything to yourself, anyone else or even the fish. It's an elevated sport, but not a stuck up sport either. Doing the above is like bow hunting over a feeder. What's the point?? None!

Ok, I'll get off my soap box now!  Hey, you think that's bad, you should have watch me chew some ear on a guy who trolled with his fly rod!  lol

Remember, the rewards are far greater when you have stepped up to the challenge, done it right, accomplished it, and shared the success with your buddies. THEN you will be somebody! 

Ted Haas


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## sjrobin (Jul 13, 2015)

Good job Ted.


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## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

Backwater said:


> Not trying to get away from the OP, I wanted to address the home boy leader thing from jsnipes and coconutgroves. Guys, don't take this personally since I kinda like you.  But all you other boys and girls out there. I'm about to get on my soap box here, not just to address what you two said, but so many others out there that are afraid to step up and go with a leader system, especially for tarpon that has been refined over decades of use, for so many reasons.
> 
> As what Capt LeMay and sjrobin said, anything north of 20lb test class tippet and you run the risk of breaking something. At best, the most I'd go to if stealth weren't an issue and needed the extra abrasion resistance (docks, bridges and very tight mangrove cover for big poons, then 30lbs would be my absolute top limit. But normally, it's 20. I've also taken many big tarpon on less than that, but generally, I stick with 20lb. sjrobin called it a circuit breaker, I like to refer to it as a "fuse." Even that, I'll go up to 3ft in length for extra stealthiness but normally run the tippet about 2ft in lenght.
> 
> ...


Haha


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## ifsteve (Jul 1, 2010)

Ted just told the truth. Everybody thinks they are some he man and can put XXX# of pressure on a fish with a fly rod. Its simply not true. I have done the test. Putting an honest 8# of pressure on a fish is a huge deal. Yes you can tie on straight 40#. Point the rod almost straight at the fish and play them off your reel. But at what point of gear configuration are you still "fly fishing". Everybody has to decide that for themselves. Personally I stick to IGFA standards. Not to try and catch a record but to catch a fish by generally accepted fly fishing means.

Here's a real life example. Go to Central America and "fly fish" for sailfish. There are two ways to go about it. One is to troll a hookless teaser. When a fish comes up the teaser is removed and you cast the fly to the fish. The other approach is to troll the fly around. Both methods you can use the exact same gear setup. In my book in the former you are fly fishing. In the later you are catching fish on a fly. To me you can brag about the first one ....the later....not so much. Is it splitting hairs? To each his own.


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## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

ifsteve said:


> Ted just told the truth. Everybody thinks they are some he man and can put XXX# of pressure on a fish with a fly rod. Its simply not true. I have done the test. Putting an honest 8# of pressure on a fish is a huge deal. Yes you can tie on straight 40#. Point the rod almost straight at the fish and play them off your reel. But at what point of gear configuration are you still "fly fishing". Everybody has to decide that for themselves. Personally I stick to IGFA standards. Not to try and catch a record but to catch a fish by generally accepted fly fishing means.
> 
> Here's a real life example. Go to Central America and "fly fish" for sailfish. There are two ways to go about it. One is to troll a hookless teaser. When a fish comes up the teaser is removed and you cast the fly to the fish. The other approach is to troll the fly around. Both methods you can use the exact same gear setup. In my book in the former you are fly fishing. In the later you are catching fish on a fly. To me you can brag about the first one ....the later....not so much. Is it splitting hairs? To each his own.


100 % agree. As for the amount of pressure you can put on a fish if you follow Ted's example of pulling on a scale you would be shocked at how hard you have to pull to get 8 lbs to register. I have done years ago and thought I was pulling at least 20 lbs. When I was told it was 7 lbs it was an eye opener.


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

el9surf said:


> 100 % agree. As for the amount of pressure you can put on a fish if you follow Ted's example of pulling on a scale you would be shocked at how hard you have to pull to get 8 lbs to register. I have done years ago and thought I was pulling at least 20 lbs. When I was told it was 7 lbs it was an eye opener.


Ha! I can relate! Back in the day when I thought I was "all that," Cliff Martin who had a fly shop in Tampa called World Class Outfitters put me straight. I thought I was the big man putting the stick on the poons, when he proved to me with a scale that I was only putting 6lbs of pressure on it, as hard as I could pull with a 12wt and me, a lean 6'3" 225lbs, giving it everything I had! Ha! Wow, I got my ego handed to me!  Made me re-think and re-learn how to use more techniques to put more pressure on a fish.

ifsteve, I don't always run IGFA standards. Maybe my tippet might be a little longer or shorter, or the same with my bite leader. I also hate carrying those tarpon fly stretchers (tho they do work) and like a little extra shock to change out a couple of flies. Like I said, I've been known to tie on 25-30lb tippets too at times for poons, since I too am not tryin to set any records either. But I try not to stray too far from it. I've also fish spots were records can be possible and have been known to keep a few regulation leaders with me. Of course, you never really now when that fish will show up. You have record redfish all around you, so I don't blame you.


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## ifsteve (Jul 1, 2010)

I should clarify a bit when I say I fish IGFA. Since I am not usually fishing for records I don't measure my bite tippet to make sure its less than 12" counting the knots and I don't measure my tippet to make sure its at least 15" inside the knots. And I also start with a bit longer bite tippet in case I want to change flies. But the key is that none of these minor difference affect my ability to fairly land a fish to the spirit of the standards. And yes I did catch an IGFA record dogtooth tuna but could not submit it since my bite tippet was 2" too long.....


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## Blue Zone (Oct 22, 2011)

I think there was a thread not too long ago which included a link to a test on the level of weight that a rod (forget the manufacturer) could actually withstand before failure. It was a surprising low number as I recall.

As a self-professed novice on tarpooning, I found this from last year to be very useful and pretty much back on topic:
http://www.microskiff.com/threads/your-favorite-set-up-from-backing-to-fly-for-tarpon.22448/


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## jonrconner (May 20, 2015)

^^^On the Rajeff Sports site Tim Rajeff has some video of break testing Echo rods dead lifting against a scale and it was quite surprising how much weight he could lift.
JC


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## Snookdaddy (Jan 5, 2008)

sjrobin said:


> Good job Ted.


Ditto... Ted we have to fish this Spring..


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## coconutgroves (Sep 23, 2013)

Some good points Ted - completely understand the amount of weight that is actually applied. I've tested this myself and it was unreal to realize how little weight it actually is.

I normally max out at 30 as well for the fuse, but there have been times a 40 was run as the fuse just based on fish and conditions. No straight for me - I do not like running something that is much greater than my line or backing. Typically, 20 or 25 do just fine. I do run a stronger core line and hatch backing on my big reels, that way I know the fuse is the weakest line. I've had some Caribbean guides push for straight 50 or 60, but I insist on having the fuse there.

One thing that should be pointed out though - it isn't always the amount of weight, it is how fast that weight is applied to the line. A 2 pound tippet can make it to 3 pounds when the pressure is applied slow and gradual. Apply 2 pounds quickly and it will snap. Quick snaps on the line cause a good percentage of breaks while fighting fish. For example, one might say how can a 6 lb bonefish apply enough pressure to break a 12 lb tippet ? Velocity and acceleration come into play there.

And when it comes to breaking rods, a rod will take more than you'd think when it is handled correctly. Rajeef's tests show this. Nearly all rod breaks I've seen have been from fighting the fish with a handle above the cork, or quick, sudden jerky movements. Gradual, slow movements are key. I hope to not to do this again because it was brutal, but I hooked a 20lb jack on an 8 weight with 10lb test on a trout reel. That 8 weight was bent overboard with the tip in the water the entire fight. 45 minutes later I got it on board, but I put the rod to the test. Btw, I was fishing sinking head line for reds in deeper water when jacks exploded near by - I normally don't subject myself to that level of punishment.


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## ifsteve (Jul 1, 2010)

Rajeff's video test is pretty cool. And it shows what a rod will handle with a nice slow gradual increase in pressure. The problem is that isn't fishing. When you are applying max pressure to a fish and he shakes his head it can pop something before you can react. Hopefully you can absorb the shock well enough but if something gives I sure as heck want it to be my leader!


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

ifsteve said:


> Rajeff's video test is pretty cool. And it shows what a rod will handle with a nice slow gradual increase in pressure. The problem is that isn't fishing. When you are applying max pressure to a fish and he shakes his head it can pop something before you can react. Hopefully you can absorb the shock well enough but if something gives I sure as heck want it to be my leader!


True, true....


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## coconutgroves (Sep 23, 2013)

Wow, I think we've went full circle here in this thread at least 3 times. 

Shock absorber is a great point - running straight mono from your fly line eliminates any type of absorber. This is why many great tarpon and big game anglers run a bimini, or dual biminis, along with a huffnagle knot on the shock. That gives multi-levels of shock absorption that straight leaders just cannot offer.

I run bimini on my backing, but I really question if there is any absorption there. It's small diameter with little give. On the butt to class, I run a double uni knot, which is easy to tie, better than a blood, and offers good absorption because it is actually two knots pulling against one another when done right. On the class to tippet, I run an albright. When done right, it holds, is easy to tie, and offers good absorption. On the hook, it's a perfection loop tied with fly on it. Tricky knot since most perfection knots are tied without the fly (fly line to leader), but once you learn it, easy breezy, super quick, and holds at 100% of line strength.

How did this turn back into the ideal tarpon leader thread again?


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

coconutgroves said:


> Wow, I think we've went full circle here in this thread at least 3 times.
> 
> Shock absorber is a great point - running straight mono from your fly line eliminates any type of absorber. This is why many great tarpon and big game anglers run a bimini, or dual biminis, along with a huffnagle knot on the shock. That gives multi-levels of shock absorption that straight leaders just cannot offer.
> 
> ...


Because that's how real conversations go! 

When I say "shock absorption," I mean the ability to act as a shock absorber like in your car, but in the opposite direction and not saying it needs to be able to withstand shock, when snapped hard (which should also be the case tho). So in other words, it acts like a bungee cord to a certain extent. Your fly line is the biggest shock absorber in the equation. But once that is reeled onto your fly reel, you have nothing left at the boat when the fish decides to snap it's head to the side. That's where and why tippets break at the boat when nothing else is protecting it. Sure you can be agile and let loose of the line and flow the rod with the fish to help protect it, but sometimes it happens so fast that most people can't react in time. This is why a bimini is needed, because it has some real "give" under sudden pressure and then bounces back. Terminal knots don't do that, like blood knots, albrights and dbl uni knots.

This is the main reason I'll use a magnum bimini to protect that tippet with. It stretches even more than a standard bimini and I believe almost as much as 2 biminis (one on either end of the tippet). So the reason I use it on the top end of the tippet is to be more stealthy and keep the fish from eyeballing anything close to the fly.

I use a bimini on my backing to fly line (learned that method from Stu) but I do something a little different. I do a very long 36-40 turn Magnum bimini (my own idea) since the braided backing has little stretch and I need all the help I can get back there on that connection. The idea is not to protect the tippet but rather to protect the knot/loop connection back there from fly line to backing. I've never lost a fly line due to that connection. But the down side is you can feel the thump as it goes through the guides between the oversized bimini and the loop I service on the fly line. Maybe I'll keep it the way I do it since it's an indicator that causes me to look down and see where I am, relative to fly line vs backing. Who knows.

I like *el9surf's* idea to running an long braided splice connection, weather it be loop to loop to my regular backing or going up to the hollow core braided backing. Still considering that one for sure. It's the loop served in the fly line that makes the most ruckus thru the guides than anything else in that connection. So going with a long braided splice connection on the fly line with a loop spliced in that will slim the whole thing down, even if I keep the mag bimini and the oversize loop in the backing to change out fly lines. So we'll test that this year.

Back to the shock absorber. Like I said, many years ago, I field tested a super braid core fly like on snook and tarpon. I thought it was a beautiful idea to help drive the hook home, especially with tarpon, whose mouths can be in the consistency of fiberglass. It did good on the snook, but now reflecting back, their mouth are soft and don't need an ultra sharp hook or braided lines to drive hooks in. So it's redundant. But I now use light braid on my spinning rods, mainly to sense the "eat" or thump. However, I felt the braided fly line was redundant. But with tarpon, that was a different story. I was still experimenting around with the absolute best/sharpest hooks to use (hated sharpening my own hooks) and the thought of driving them in with a superbraid core fly line was exciting. So what I was hoping for and expected was true. It really drove those hooks home and made me giddy when it happened. At that point, with a good hook along with a good strip set (not rod setting PEOPLE!  ) ( Ha! couldn't help myself there! Ha!), then BHAM! You didn't have to worry about the hook falling out or with good bowing practices, not getting the hook thrown. No then.... What I DIDN'T expect was the no stretch fly line getting shocked and did all kinds of crazy things. With a solid snapping head shake, the fly line would snap and throw knots and loops in it, like you wouldn't believe. small half hitch loops, large loops up to 6ft with full hitch knots in it. It's not fun fighting a 140 fish with a 6ft loop ripping in and out of your rod guides cause you can't get it un-tied. Fly line jumping up and wrapping around the guides, the rod and the tip, more than the norm. So that part wasn't fun and it got me to realize that the fly line itself was a vital part of the shock absorbion necessary to wrangle a big fish between the fish and you behind your buggy whip.



Whoa.... What's the point of all this rhetoric??

* The backing needs a really good connection that is either nearly 100%. with good knot protection if a knot is needed for the connection (like a bimini), if there is no splicing going on.

* Use a decent fly line (of course).

* When using a real class tippet, always use a bimini system of some sort to protect the tippet.

* After your successful landing of a decent poon, make sure if your going to say "Budweiser" as many times as Peyton Manning did at the Superbowl, you are getting big endorsement bucks for doing so! Ha! 

Have fun!

Ted Haas


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