# Opinions on these single part paints wanted



## sss (Nov 8, 2018)

Where it came from:


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## sss (Nov 8, 2018)

Where it's at:


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## sss (Nov 8, 2018)

Where it's headed:
(Exterior paint isn't supposed to be so yellow, the screenshot changed it...)


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## BassFlats (Nov 26, 2018)

I've used the Totalboat and the Interlux brightside paints. The Totalboat seems harder and more durable than the Interlux. The Totalboat doesn't bubble up ,like the Interlux, when water sits on it for long periods of time. The only negative of the Totalboat is the color fades quicker than the Interlux.


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## sss (Nov 8, 2018)

That’s too bad about the fade. Do you feel like it’s a result of UV exposure or just something it does with time?
How long before it became noticeable?


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## BassFlats (Nov 26, 2018)

The color is not as vivid within 6 months with the totalboat,but the interlux does fade also. The interlux has more sheen. The skiffs are stored outside and the south florida sun is harsh. My skiffs aren't huge and its not a big deal to roll on another interior coat every 18 to 24 months to refresh it.


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## Guest (Jul 27, 2019)

It’s a tin boat, check out Valspar LIC40. It is a 2k paint for industrial applications, hard as nails, retains it’s gloss, can be sprayed, brushed, or rolled and tipped with right reducer.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

I've used a few single stage paints including the Valspar, Rustoleum, and interlux Brightsides. If you want to get a decade in between repainting then I'd look elsewhere. If you are ok with the reality that it might be a 5 year job then the brightsides did pretty well. 
As far as the rustoleum goes, I used it on my decks with some enamel hardener and krylon webbing spray on top. It held up well over the last 8 years, but it's time to refinish. I'll say though, there is no real difference between rustoleum, and their marine stuff, other then color/sheen selection.

If you are looking for just a knock around boat with a work boat finish, the single stage is the way to go. If you want the boat to be nice for a long time then look at Quantum, Awlgrip, Alexseal paints, but be prepared for sticker shock.


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## Guest (Jul 27, 2019)

The Valspar I recommended is a 2k paint and I’d put it against anything out there from a durability and gloss retention stand point. It is what I used on my truck and after 3 years in the Florida sun and running it in the woods there is no sign of fading and not a scratch on it!


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

What's that stuff run BB?


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## Guest (Jul 27, 2019)

About $150 gallon plus reducer&hardener so around $225 for a gallon kit last I purchased. It’s not a “marine” paint but I wouldn’t let that stop me! Most single part paints shouldn’t be used below the waterline anyway! At least this stuff is a 2k urethane made for industrial use!


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

I'll look into that next go around. Do they sell quart kits?


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## Guest (Jul 27, 2019)

I believe they do!


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## sss (Nov 8, 2018)

This is the kind of info I was hoping to get. 
I’ll look into the LIC40, so far haven’t found much. Is it tintable? Who distributes it?
I’m seeing more and more about how the urethane paints bring toxicity to a new level compared to oil based enamel. That the carbon full face mask isn’t enough anymore. I need to look into that also.
Thanks guys, great info.


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## Guest (Jul 27, 2019)

The Valspar is available in about any color you can think of. Go to a Valspar paint jobber and take a look and ask questions. 

Toxicity is a whole other conversation!

The 2k urethanes have isocyanates and they can be deadly. “The enamle hardener” that tsc and the like sell also have isocyanates. Again, they are bad! If using and all that is available is a standard charcoal pack respirator, proceed with caution in a well ventilated area. Wear all ppe and cover entire body! This stuff will get in through your skin, eyes, mouth, nose, and anywhere else you can imagine!


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## sss (Nov 8, 2018)

Thank you. I have a 36” attic exhaust fan in my shop, I’ll have it on with a garage door 1/4 open to set up a decent current. Tyvek suit, carbon mask, gloves. Been a while since I had to take all of that into consideration.
I think Sherwin Williams and Home Depot are Valspar distributors, you’re saying they may be able to order it?


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## Guest (Jul 27, 2019)

Doubt SW or HD can get it. Find an autobody jobber near you that carries valspar products. You can find online also but shipping may be high!


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## sss (Nov 8, 2018)

Ok, I’ll look around. I’m offshore for the next month or so but I have time before I need it, October/November. Thanks


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Do not strip down to bare metal unless you have too. You will never get the paint bite like the factory.

Onto your paint question. My experience with paints is they behave differently depending what they are covering. 

If I am painting metal I would be looking at industrial coatings and skip every paint you list.

Sherwood Williams corothane 1 single stage is what I would use.


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## sss (Nov 8, 2018)

The paint was in poor shape when I got it, lots of different layers, peeling in different spots. I already have it bare for the most part, will do a final strip right before I prime. 
I do need to get more prep info before I roll into the process. What do you recommend? 
Is an aloline(sp?) treatment necessary before self etching primer? Should the self etching primer be matched to the paint type? Do I need to use a primer over the self etching primer for paint adhesion?
I will check out the corothane 1 you recommended.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Clean, scuff, clean, prime, paint, go fishing.


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## sss (Nov 8, 2018)

DuckNut said:


> Clean, scuff, clean, prime, paint, go fishing.


Thanks for the help.


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## TheRealLife79 (Apr 8, 2021)

any update, would love to see this


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