# Sticky  Starting Beryllium 18.5, Boron 17.9 and Puffer fish 19 skiff builds



## Chris Morejohn

I am now setting up shop in Mt. Olive NC to build this winter 3 skiffs of my design. Eric Kimes owns the shop where I will be building the Beryllium skiff along with a Boron skiff. I will assist Eric as he builds my PUFFER FISH 19 Glades Spliff edition in strip cedar and epoxy.
The shop is in a space in the back of an old Feed, fertilizer hardware store. Rachel and I live 4 blocks away now so it’s a great setup.
I will be photographing the builds so I have gone a bit extra in building the deck strong back and having a nice cutting table and cloth rack to be able to show how things can be done.
I am used to building outside and in real limited spaces and conditions so this setup is a dream come true. Real quiet here other than the Pickle trucks getting their loads of pickle jars next door once in awhile.
The Beryllium skiff is going to Capt. Robert Alexander in Beaufort SC once I am finished. I will as I go along post all the design elements that will be built into this skiff along with the others.
I will build the cored skiffs using epoxy resin and Basalt cloth on the exterior skins and finish the insides and deck in polyester resin.
Eric will build the PUFFER FISH in epoxy, cedar and Ocumme plywood with core being used sandwiched between ply in the ring frames.
The PUFFER FISH skiff design is about getting into the deepest reaches of the Everglades under all those overhanging branches that makes it impossible to get a regular skiff into. Years ago with my wife we paddled the length of the Everglades in an aluminum canoe taking 10 days. We got into many incredible bays by sitting in the bottom of the canoe and pulling ourselves along by the overhanging branches to reach theses bays. You have to abide by the spiders though. The fishing in these untouched bays was unbelievable, but we had to move on to the next dry campsite. With the PUFFER you can stay aboard as there’s enough room in her. No more permits and if it’s good just anchor for the night.
The Puffer is designed to carry up to a 15 Hp which should give around 20 knts speed empty in flat water. She will carry a 2,000lb load as shown. The design is to be able to cross large rough bays, staying dry and out of the weather and to be a sneak box extreme for duck hunting and other pursuits. This design gets built in 2 halves and then glued and glassed together. This will be a fun build.
Will be posting as I go along.


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## bryson

So great! I can't wait to see the progress. This will be a tremendous resource for those wanting to build their own skiff.


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## lemaymiami

You're going to have quite an audience... I'm looking forward to each and every report....


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## tailchaser16

Puffer fish, Spliff Edition. hahaha


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## firecat1981

Really looking forward to the Beryllium build.


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## NativeBone

firecat1981 said:


> Really looking forward to the Beryllium build.


Ditto!


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## LowHydrogen

lemaymiami said:


> I'm looking forward to each and every report....


Same! Going to be awesome!


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## Bonecracker

Love it!


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## CKEAT

Can’t wait to see this thread unfold!


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## flyclimber

firecat1981 said:


> Really looking forward to the Beryllium build.


This!!


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## bryson

I think the Beryllium is going to be where it's at for new skiff builders. The most challenging area of the Conchfish (in my opinion) is the "pocket" chines, especially where they end near the bow. A hull with traditional chines may be a little less daunting for a first time builder.


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## Chris Morejohn

Got the Beryllium skiff strong back made today and the Pufferfish stations up. The Puffer fish skiff is a vision in my head so will fair the stations to suit tomorrow morning as I see things evolve in its concept. I have decided to make the hulls bottom as efficient as possible for speed under power. Will have the Beryllium stations up after recovery day. 
Have a great eating to excess day.


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## BassFlats

Geez Chris, it looks like you've done this before.


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## omegadef

BassFlats said:


> Geez Chris, it looks like you've done this before.


Yeah, that's the way its done. I guarantee I would have spent more time trying to find straight 2x4's than he did building the whole thing.


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## Backcountry 16

Looking forward to seeing the pufferfish


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## GaG8tor

Really looking forward to seeing this unfold. May make a stop by on my next trip up to the OBX. Sweet shop setup too.


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## Chris Morejohn

Not much progress since Turkey day. I will be off to the Bahamas for a week as my house is sold there and I have to go over and get my belongings. End of an era for me.
You get an idea of the waterline beam on the Beryllium skiff with these photos. More beam at the waterline than my past HB Professional design, along with the Lithium skiff, 10 Weight design. But not as wide as my Guide design.
I am putting in the tunnel plug for a future build if someone wants to build off this jig. This skiff will not need the tunnel.


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## Surffshr

Loving that tunnel


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## firecat1981

CM, I'm not sure if you can divulge this, but what is the waterline beam of the Beryllium?


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## SeaDrifter

Dadgummit CM...I had to replace my blasted keyboard because it shorted out from all the drool. I see an 18-20' build in my future and I really dig the lines you have going!




Michael
(Skinny Dipper Fishing)


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## Chris Morejohn

Sold my home in the Bahamas so have been busy shipping my beach combing finds back here to the states. End of an era for me leaving the Bahamas but it’s been a great time having been there since 1997. Times have changed though for Rachel and I over there as its getting too busy for us. We are relocating to a small island off of Vancouver island BC this May after I finish these skiff projects out here in NC.
I got a few hours in this week on the jig. I have built the tunnel in place for photos only to show how it would look if wanting a tunnel. What would be done if building a tunnel is you could wax the ply and just glass it in place as seen. 
The chine pockets and chine panels are 1/4” cheap plywood that I will use as patterns to trace over a fiberglassed sheet I will lay up on my fiberglass table. Very easy, light and cheaper than Coosa board or core.
The 1/4” ply will be put back into place, the core will be added to the hull and then the traced fiberglass chine pieces will be added in last. 
I will just cover over the tunnel when coring the hull as that area will use flat sheets.
I should have the hull ready to start coring by Friday so we should see it cored next week.
The Basalt cloth has arrived as all my other materials. The basalt cloth feels the same as carbon in stiffness when dry. I will be glassing up test panels soon so will have something to say in a few days.
Because it’s cold up here I will be building a movable sliding oven box to cover the hull at night with a heater in it to cure the resin overnight. 
The building I am in is fantastic but to big to heat.
Let me know if this is too many photos.
Thanks


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## Capnredfish

Never too many photos.


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## bryson

Chris Morejohn said:


> Because it’s cold up here I will be building a movable sliding oven box to cover the hull at night with a heater in it to cure the resin overnight.
> The building I am in is fantastic but to big to heat.
> Let me know if this is too many photos.
> Thanks


Very interested to see this - it's not as cold here as it is there, but I've considered making a "tent" to drop down from the ceiling when I want to add a little extra heat during curing.

Looking great, Chris. Like @Capnredfish said, definitely not too many photos -- keep 'em coming! Really appreciate you sharing these with us!


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## Chris Morejohn

Got in a bit of time today laying on the core sheets. I always plank my sheer area using full flat sheets. I just scribe the bow section in using cheap thin plywood or the cardboard that came with the core box. The bow pieces always look half moon shape.
I will be making my chine flats out of solid fiberglass which I will cut from a sheet I will layup for these parts and other things I will install on this build.
I will rip the planks in the morning and finish coring tomorrow.
Then it’s add in a few detail things I have come up with, fill in the gaps and then lightly fair before resin coating. She should be finished glassed By the end of the month.


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## Chris Morejohn

View attachment 106580





























Here’s the rest of today’s works photos


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## Charles Hadley

Looks like jelly Fisher and your posts are going to create some progress on other people's builds too.


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## omegadef

Chris, 

You may not have been aware, but you're infinitely better at this than I am. 
Did you cut the core with a jigsaw?


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## Chris Morejohn

omegadef said:


> Chris,
> 
> You may not have been aware, but you're infinitely better at this than I am.
> Did you cut the core with a jigsaw?


Yes I pretty much just do everything with a jigsaw and then use a hard board to quickly hand sand the just cut edge. I bevel my cuts so they fit tightish against the sheer plate and chine flats. I am gluing to tight edges together with white wood glue and will push thickened epoxy putty into the wider seams after it’s all in place.


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## Chris Morejohn

Got in 7 hours work this Sunday. Rachel my wife helped me rip the core strips. I jig saw the 4x8 sheet in 1/2 then we ripped to 3-1/2” widths. I have 11 hours logged so far on coring. One more day to go. I like to dry fit the core. Fair it, then vacuum it real good. Then I squeegee in epoxy thickened putty into the seams between all the screws. When cured I remove the screws fill them in plus the left over seams. Then I Fair all the high spots off and then radius off the chine core. Then I fillet in the chines.
Once done I then resin coat the whole hull. After it’s cured I wash off, lightly sand if ruff fuzz is anywhere then start the cloth layup.
My new foam pads should be here this week so will show my fairing setup.


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## BassFlats

Wow. And just like that, we have a skiff. Awesome work Chris.


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## Fishshoot

Is this the beryllium or the boron?


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## Mountolive

Fishshoot said:


> Is this the beryllium or the boron?


Beryllium


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## Pole Position

Pardon my ignorance....what happened to the tunnel?


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## DuckNut

Chris Morejohn said:


> I have 11 hours logged so far on coring.


It would have taken me longer to get enough beer to think about getting started 

You're changing the game for sure. But I have to ask: why did you let those poor souls on earlier builds jigsaw the core together for a month when they could have had it done over lunch?


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## DuckNut

Pole Position said:


> Pardon my ignorance....what happened to the tunnel?


It is under the core. Jig is set so you can build either from the same set of frames.


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## Mountolive

DuckNut said:


> It is under the core. Jig is set so you can build either from the same set of frames.


Chris is writing a book that will show a home builder how to make a skiff. He wanted to build a tunnel into the jig in order to take photos for the book. His Beryllium is being made without the tunnel. The jig still has the tunnel’s form, however @chrismorejohn simply put the H-80 core right on top of the tunnel.


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## salt_fly

Mountolive said:


> Chris is writing a book that will show a home builder how to make a skiff. He wanted to build a tunnel into the jig in order to take photos for the book. His Beryllium is being made without the tunnel. The jig still has the tunnel’s form, however @chrismorejohn simply put the H-80 core right on top of the tunnel.


Looking forward to the book and my retirement so I have time to build and enjoy a Conchfish with a tunnel.


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## Chris Morejohn

DuckNut said:


> It would have taken me longer to get enough beer to think about getting started
> 
> You're changing the game for sure. But I have to ask: why did you let those poor souls on earlier builds jigsaw the core together for a month when they could have had it done over lunch?


About core area size. Like I have said before, Does not all matter what you form of method you use. All production skiffs are built using 2” square pieces of core....so if it’s a flat area then you can take advantage of it. The sheer is easy but you have to know how to scribe In the panels.
Go look at the photos of the Chittum shop. You can see a huge pile of scrap core piled up against the wall. Enough there to build at least 5 skiffs. 

I took Monday off to pick my daughter up at the airport. 

Today I got a few things done.
Shown is the Basalt cloth and the 10 oz eglass cloth I specify for these builds. The squares shown are 12” squares laid up in slow epoxy and regular boatyard polyester resin. There are 3 layers each cloth in the 4 one ft squares. It was 61 degrees in my shop so will see how there are doing in the morning.
I used 5 ounces of each resin to do the 6 layers of each cloth setup. so 2-1/2 oz per sq Ft resin used.
The Basalt cloth is a bit stiffer feeling than the 10 oz and weighs more dry. It wets out just fantastic. turns from golden brown to dark brown immediately when resin hits it.
So when these skins are good and cured I will then do some tests to share with you all.
Because it’s so cold up here I will be building some form of cooking the hull each evening with a bag- tent setup to heat up over night.
Talk soon....


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## Chris Morejohn

Lots of other builds going on that don’t get seen here on MS. These are Berylliums, a lithium in Australia, and the Beryllium plug being started in Abu Dhabi by Hayarrie Marine, plus the cool looking CF 17.5 with the Carolina flair added.


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## Mountolive

The master at work.


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## bryson

Mountolive said:


> The master at work.
> View attachment 107026


That is a super cool photo. If I were Chris I think I'd hang a framed print in the shop office.


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## Pole Position

Chris Morejohn said:


> View attachment 106994
> 
> 
> Because it’s so cold up here I will be building some form of cooking the hull each evening with a bag- tent setup to heat up over night.
> Talk soon....


Supposed to be below freezing the next two nights...


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## DuckNut

Chris had posted a pic of his scribe but for some reason it is now not showing up. So I will try to describe it.

In the pic he uses a scribe to get the curvature needed on some of the pieces. He also went to describe that he cuts on an angle so the pieces fit together pretty tight.

Not wanting to deter from his expertise I shared a method with him and he said to share it.

I built something a while ago and I have never been able to use a scribe worth a crap so I had to come up with plan B. My plan B involved one of those oscillating tools with a flat blade.

I prepped the top side of the blade, and spread some thickened epoxy on it and then pushed some rock salt into it and let it cure. After curing I ran warm water over it and the salt disintegrated and left sharp edges.

I then took the foam I needed to put in place and figured out which side would be the lowest point and put a screw in it to anchor it in place. I then took the oscillating tool and placed it flat on the base and proceeded to run it back and forth under the foam while lowering the foam into place. It was in essence grinding away the foam.

When this plan B was complete I was left with an absolutely perfect fit. This process could be used for nearly any of the compound bends that needed to be created.

If you coat both sides of the blade you have very little control over the process, so only coat one side of your choosing. The gaps will almost all be gone and every piece would be attached to each other with near perfect angles with very little filling to do after gluing.

Coating both sides and using it on the bow would be ideal to getting a perfect fit and a straight line.


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## Chris Morejohn

Was able to work on the skiff today. I installed the sheer return flange and resin coated the hull. I like to prime my bare core and let it cure. This way when I laminate the hull I don’t have to deal with dry core underneath.
I will be glassing the outside of the hull using Basalt cloth. I have found in tests that the Basalt cloth is superior in impact than eglass, kevlar and carbon. Really is just amazing stuff. Very easy to work with and wet out.
I will post all my tests and panels to show what I see in a few days after I glass the hull this weekend.


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## LowHydrogen

Looking great.

Man, you're building this boat faster than it took me to assemble the last office furniture I bought.


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## Guest

Looooking good!


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## bryson

Looks great! I was just lamenting how I didn't round over my edges enough when prepping the foam for glass, and how it made the process more of a pain. Looks like you used a nice big radius, so even stiffer cloth like carbon or basalt should contour well to the corners.

It's almost like you've built a boat or two before


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## Indoman

Chris- would a single layer of 300gr basalt cloth over 2 layers of 10oz eglass give you much added benefit? Wondering if you need a least 2 layers of basalt cloth to see a noticeable gain in abrasion resistance. 

Thx


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## Zika

To borrow a line from Ralphie in Christmas Story, this build is coming together quicker than a jackrabbit on a date. 

Nice work. Thanks for sharing the progress, Chris.


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## BassFlats




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## Chris Morejohn

Indoman said:


> Chris- would a single layer of 300gr basalt cloth over 2 layers of 10oz eglass give you much added benefit? Wondering if you need a least 2 layers of basalt cloth to see a noticeable gain in abrasion resistance.
> 
> Thx


Sorry everyone but I have been very busy the past couple of weeks doing other things and just getting in a few hours here and there on my skiff builds. Things will start to move along quicker now.
I have made a bunch of tests with the Basalt cloth in polyester and epoxy resins. I will post all my results in a week. I need to lay up some carbon and KEVLAR panels to show what I have seen felt.
Right now the Basalt to me is superior to KEVLAR in all ways. Easy to layup and extremely impact resistant.
As for abrasion it’s way better than Kevlar and Carbon, but at the moment not any different than eglass.
It is almost as stiff as carbon and a substantial bit stiffer than eglass in the same weights and layups.
Tomorrow and Sunday I will cut my material and layup the Beryllium skiffs outer hull skin.
I feel that if wanting A very stiff and strong hull a combination of Basalt with carbon in between could be a great mix.
But.... by the 50 yard roll Basalt cost me $8.08 a yard verses $23.50 for KEVLAR and a bit more for carbon.
For my$ Basalt cloth materials is the future of skiff building.
I would be very interested to hear about the politics of the petroleum industry verses Basalt materials as in country’s like Ice Land it’s everywhere because of the volcanic origin.lots of fascinating info from this country and other Scandinavian country’s on it’s great uses because it’s not a chemical cloth but a molten protruded material. Can’t burn, no mold, heat is no factor is Ecco friendly and on and on.
I will have more info soon.


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## Simplehandy

I enjoyed going through all of the photos and seeing things move along. Just wanted to say thanks for sharing!


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## firecat1981

Chris, you may have shared this in another thread, but can you say where you ordered the basalt from? At $8+ a yard it's near the price of the woven glass I've been using.


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## Rick hambric

Will sonar shoot through a basalt hull? As a new product to the marine industry, we have 1,000’s of questions. Will it absorb water like aramid or is it hydrophobic?


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## Chris Morejohn

my wife Rachel wiping off the resin primed hull of blush using warm water and vinegar.
This is how I roll up all my cloth panels that I will lay up. Because I work alone and most cloths like carbon, KEVLAR, biaxel and Basalt cloth is too still to layup all at once I do my layups in sections like you would laying up a hull in a mold.
I like to roll my cloth up in nice tight rolls as it makes it easier to handle and unroll. I mark everything as to how it needs to unroll in advance.


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## Chris Morejohn

When cutting my panels out I like to have at least 1 straight edge. In cloths I cut a small dart into the salvaged edge of the cloth, exposing a strand, I then pull it out, by doing this no matter how crooked the cloth is I get a strait edge. 
This is important because of the weft and weave of cloths. If you just cut randomly you lose control of how the cloth will lay. 
you can see the strait line to cut .
Now as you go along towards the bow you will have curves but if you have a strait controlling edge it’s easy to roll out.
You can see all my material laid out.
It took 5 hours to cut all out along with peel ply and patterns.


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## Chris Morejohn

my wife Rachel rolling clay worms out for the sheer edge. 
You need a radius on the outside corner so the deck can fit tight. If it’s too sharp you will need too big a gap to fit the deck over.
I lay up my panels staggering the cloth panels in 1” segments. It can be wider but I find this is enough. When done you get the strait seam as shown but everything is lapped over by 3” and it’s very easy to line up the cloths salvaged edge. That’s the nice stitched edge.


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## Chris Morejohn

The blue tape from the previous post is where I don’t want the resin and cloth to stick to the core where I will have the trim tabs, a Chanel drain to the aft sump. I want this to be all solid glass. So when I flip I just cut out and it’s easy to remove. I poked tooth picks through the core so I know where to cut.
In radiuses Carbon, biaxel, KEVLAR, Basalt and other stiffer cloths will be hard to bend into radiuses. They will want to keep starching outwards. The way to make stay in place is to mix up a batch of silica that will just spread with a brush and wipe in a bit along the radius. It acts like glue. When the resin hits it the cloth will just stay put.
Basalt cloth wets out nicely but is stiff like carbon. It goes from dark brown to black and is very easy to see when it’s wet out. Easier than carbon or Kevlar.


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## Chris Morejohn

when I mix fairing putty I use 100 % glass bubbles,or QCells mixed into mixed up catalyzed epoxy resin.
The thickness you see here is my normal batch. If it can’t stay upright there’s too much resin, not enough filler.
I spread it on like frosting a cake I want to eat. 
when using epoxy you have extra time to spread.
I will tomorrow frost this whole skiff with enough putty to do about 85% of the fairing.
Once the flat areas are smoothed off then I will add in my chine edges and faring in the chine flats. This will take less than a day.
Once the whole hull is faired I will then add my lifting strakes and reverse strake.
It took me 7-1/2 hours to layup this hull today solo..... well Eric helped hold the transom cloth. Rachel made me lunch, it’s a family affair.
Hope this gives you all ideas on how you can do your own layup.
There are many ways to go. When using eglass cloth it’s easier to use as it’s flows better.
I will be building the rest of the skiffs insides and deck using eglass and polyester resin because I see no need to use epoxy on the insides.
It will be quicker, cost less by over 1/2.
Have a happy new year!


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## Chris Morejohn

Rick hambric said:


> Will sonar shoot through a basalt hull? As a new product to the marine industry, we have 1,000’s of questions. Will it absorb water like aramid or is it hydrophobic?


Rick, it’s remelted molten lava rock. Can’t burn, is biodegradable,
Heat does not affect it, great for molds, rebar, etc, mold won’t form, can’t absorb water, super impact resistant, very cost effective at $8.08 yard verse $23.00 + for KEVLAR or carbon.
Carbon dust can cause cancer. Carbo dust can enter your lungs easier than all other fabrics. 
As for you fish finder just layup a 4”x4” section of the hull in something else. 
I have a whole research sheet from Iceland on its uses because that country is made of Basalt.


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## Hardluk81

Chris, what is the hp rating going to be for this skiff? The 10wt is running a 90hp zuke with speeds around 45mph loaded. From the pics of it (10wt) there wasn’t really any squat but is probably maxed out. If I remember correctly you told someone this was the skiff for bigger hp rating/speed if desired.


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## Copahee Hound

This whole build is blowing my mind! And now I’m pretty sure your wife, Rachel, is much more suited to restore my skiff than I am! 

I’m curious as to why you’re using epoxy for the outside rather than poly for the whole build for the cost savings alone? And for a metric idiot like myself, how are you able to compare the strength of the 340 gram basalt cloth to an equivalent glass? I have a lot to learn it seems.


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## DuckNut

340 grams is 12 oz


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## Chris Morejohn

Copahee Hound said:


> This whole build is blowing my mind! And now I’m pretty sure your wife, Rachel, is much more suited to restore my skiff than I am!
> 
> I’m curious as to why you’re using epoxy for the outside rather than poly for the whole build for the cost savings alone? And for a metric idiot like myself, how are you able to compare the strength of the 340 gram basalt cloth to an equivalent glass? I have a lot to learn it seems.











Picture here is of the Beryllium skiff plug being built by Hayarri marine in Abu Dhabi. It will be in production soon.
They plan on putting 115 hp on their production models. 

The Beryllium design has about 3” more waterline beam than my past HB Professional,Lithium skiff, and 10 Weight skiff designs.
I feel there is a need for a skiff that is just a bit bigger than these and the CHITTUM, Cayo type skiffs for all round use but still draft at 6” loaded.

I used epoxy resin for the outside skin to show how I laminate alone and to have the best water barrier skin for this build.

The Basalt cloth as Ducknut explains is a 12 oz cloth in weight and because it’s stiff like carbon it’s no where near as supple as regular 10 oz eglass cloth. If trying to lay up a hull shape of mine using bi axel cloth it would be very testing because of their weave stiffness. You would need to use the silica mix trick in the radiuses to get it to lay in properly.
They key thing when wetting out cloths is to not concentrate on one area, move the resin around and give it a bit to soak in. Once the first layer is down wetting out the other layers they will absorb resin much quicker and easier. But you can in small skiffs like the CONCHFISH put on complete 3 layers of cloths at one time dry and wet out at one time, preferably starting in the middle of the hull and working forward and then aft. This way you have a shorter distance to push out wrinkles or bubbles. The hulls are small enough to take the 50” wide cloth with minimal waste. 10 oz eglass cloth is very easy to work with.

Now as to cloth weights and strengths, the problem with one off skiffs like this is that it’s very easy to build a skiff that can end up 4-600 lbs lighter than a production built model of similar size.
I am really happy having been introduced to the Basalt cloth because of its added strength and impact quality’s. A couple grams added weight is no big deal in a skiff of this build.
The client I am building this skiff for is putting a 70 Yamaha on her.
He is a guide out of Hilton Head area SC. This skiff complete with center console will weigh less gas at about 900 lbs fully rigged max.
This means when fully loaded it will float in 6” water or a bit more if his charter for the day is a family.


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## Chris Morejohn

Been doing other things this past few days. Got a bit of time in today cutting the sheer flange and applying the fairing.
Dust storm coming as soon as it cures.


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## Sublime

DuckNut said:


> 340 grams is 12 oz


340 per square meter, so comes out to 10 oz per square yard. I'm using 300 gram or 8.8 oz per square yard.


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## jasonrl23

Chris Morejohn said:


> Been doing other things this past few days. Got a bit of time in today cutting the sheer flange and applying the fairing.
> Dust storm coming as soon as it cures.
> View attachment 110270
> View attachment 110272
> View attachment 110274
> View attachment 110276
> View attachment 110278
> View attachment 110280
> View attachment 110282
> View attachment 110284


This answered so many questions I had about fairing with epoxy and q cells


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## firecat1981

Looks like you ordered a boat shaped cake from Publix for your kids Bday.


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## firecat1981

Chris, I see you laid the basalt across the hull in sections, instead of running the length of the hull. Is this preferred, or does it not really matter since it's all 90 degrees and overlapped?

From my builds I think doing it that way is probably a lot easier for one guy.


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## bryson

Fully frosted! Can't wait to see the shape that emerges from the dust storm.

Shear line looks great too!


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## bw510

Hey Chris, Any thoughts of doing some sort of YouTube channel for us guys who have zero experience but are considering building one of your designs? 
nothing better than having actual footage of the process


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## Chris Morejohn

Eric Kimes took these photos yesterday and sent them to me this morning. These shots should have been shown awhile back at the start but I needed someone to take the pictures and we both are in and out of the shop a lot.
I have been very busy out of the shop lately but will now be at it full time.
I will explain my method below the pictures. There are for sure other ways to apply fairing and Fair a hull but what I show is is my refined method.
I don’t like using serrated trowls because I don’t trust the bond in between the rows of putty.
I like to put on an even 1/8”-3/16” of faring over the hull like a big cake.
I fair off the all the big surface areas with my flat pad contraption just letting it float over the surface with little pressure on the sander and the pad. If I start seeing fiberglass I move on.
When the hull is gone over I Vacume off and mark and fill all the low spots seen. I then re fair over these with the contraption or if small with a hard sanding block by hand.
Once the entire hulls flat or curved surfaces like the bottom and the hull sides are faired in this manner I then start in on the chine pads. 
I use 40 grit paper for all this. It will take me about 2-3 hours for this hull to this point to do this.
On the chine flats I can use a slow 5000 rpm sander to quick smooth off the chine flats.
From here on I will use a hard long board to flat sand the chine pads.

Once strait and flat I can then sand with the hard long board the round radiuses of the build like the stern corners and the bow edge.
Now once all this is done which should take about 8 hours or less I then look for small holes to fill and to fill in my chine edges.
I will show how I do this when I get to this stage.

I used 1-1/2 gallons of epoxy resin and around 3gals of volume of filler to make up the amount of putty that you see here.
Total cost less than $100.00
I do not use silica all at this stage. I use silica for the chine edges, lifting strakes and reverse spray strake and in the chines inner radiuses which I add after all the chines, pads, strakes are in place.
At this point you can decide in the size of the radius you want.








My epoxy is US Composites slow 2-1 mix. I make up 12 oz. as it’s easy to mix in these buckets. You can see the ratio of epoxy to bubbles mix.
I bought a 40lb bag of QCells at $60.00








Don’t mix in a circle all the time. Mix in an up and down circular motion to to get the resin from the bottom to the top and the bubbles downwards. Wear a mask for sure.








Now it’s mixed. If it runs off the stick when scooping out it’s too wet. Add more filler. Be careful to not put too much in now. If you do you will have to mix up a small batch of new epoxy resin to add in slowly to get the right feel.
I use two small Squeegees. One to spread and the other to clean off the spreading squeegee. You need to keep your hands and squeegees clean or it gets hard to hold with the slippery sticky epoxy. I am very anal about staying clean doing this. It’s a long process and you want to stay consistent.















because I am using slow resin and the shop was 59 degrees I had plenty of time to spread this bog mix about.
If in warmer climes I would then scoop out as fast as I can onto the hull and spread out a bit so as to not be in a big blob to generate heat to cure faster. I would then work it out as fast as I could. don’t 
Worry about spreading super smooth, it just needs to feel consistent. 






















I like short squeegees because it gets very tiring on your fingers to spread this bog about. I bend my squeegee just a bit and use the bent side downwards so I never have the ends digging in to the putty layer.
I find that if using a 4” putty knife that is flexible your wrist does not allow it to be used as well as a squeegee can be over a long period because you are going in so many different directions.








The cool thing about this process is you can’t really screw up unless you mix the epoxy wrong.
The bad part of this whole deal is it’s worse than drinking high end booze. You are going to be sanding off 75% in the end.
With this method I try to get it all done in just a few steps.
What makes it work is the sanding pad contraption I use in lew of the old school long boards of old.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Some shots of doing a section.
It col here now in the shop. Around 50 degrees.
His epoxy will not be hard till Friday. I will be building an insulated box around my build to heat up at night to not have o wit on the curing times. The shop is great but too big to heat up.


----------



## Guest

bw510 said:


> Hey Chris, Any thoughts of doing some sort of YouTube channel for us guys who have zero experience but are considering building one of your designs?
> nothing better than having actual footage of the process






I’m not Chris but here is a link to my channel! I’ll be uploading many many how too videos in the very near future! I am finishing up this skiff and another project currently then I’ll be starting a fiberglass repair and fabrication series including building a one off skiff! Might be my design, might be one of Chris’ designs maybe a bateau??? Ya’ll subscribe, like, comment, and share, lots of good stuff to come. Just gotta find my inner interpreter and get better with the camera lol! Let me know what ya think, criticism welcome, James


----------



## bw510

Boatbrains said:


> I’m not Chris but here is a link to my channel! I’ll be uploading many many how too videos in the very near future! I am finishing up this skiff and another project currently then I’ll be starting a fiberglass repair and fabrication series including building a one off skiff! Might be my design, might be one of Chris’ designs maybe a bateau??? Ya’ll subscribe, like, comment, and share, lots of good stuff to come. Just gotta find my inner interpreter and get better with the camera lol! Let me know what ya think, criticism welcome, James


Thank you sir! 
I subscribed and look forward to watching!


----------



## Chris Morejohn

bw510 said:


> Hey Chris, Any thoughts of doing some sort of YouTube channel for us guys who have zero experience but are considering building one of your designs?
> nothing better than having actual footage of the process


A few years ago I noticed many guys on this Microskiff site complaining about the high cost of a high end well built flats skiff. I decided to show those that had common sense and a bit of energy that anyone can build a top of the line skiff if having the right plans of a good hull shape and design if so inclined.
With this in mind I started providing detailed hull design plans and to go along with my plans unlimited advice and direction in how to complete a skiff build.
My goal was not money oriented but to help the common man create something that worked very well for its intend purpose and to save these builders a small fortune in real cash.
The time it takes to design a proper skiff and put it to paper is one thing, but the amount of time I have spent answering questions and giving advice is another matter.
One of the first builds here on this site got things rolling with you all. The builder asked me during his first build over 130 emails it’s many questions from start to finish on everything. I gladly answered and also provided advice during his build thread here. I did this as part of the initial plans cost and still answer his questions for free 3 years later.
I want to show everyone how it’s done. Well at least my way.

I have never been sponsored by anyone or any product. I have been told that I should do what Boatbrains is wanting to do.
It’s just not in my personality.

On my 2 blogs I have over 450,000 readers and viewers with an average of 12,000 reads a month. You don’t want to know how many emails I answer each day....for free.


I understand why Boatbrains is wanting to go this route.

I know that there are plenty of people that follow my blogs and threads. I hope that some of my info has helped others. I know that others will capitalize on my past ideas and incorporate it into “their” new designs and way of doing builds.

I am fine with this.

I always say it’s my design and build and if you like it you will come back for more.
In my art work world I do unique pieces and I am very happy that others see what I saw and are willing to pay $ for this.

So...to answer your question,

NO I am not interested in doing videos. My plan is to finish this build showing here on Microskiff how I build skiffs.
Once done I will be moving to a small quiet island in the Gulf islands in BC to our new property and plan On spending the next years just designing small boats, doing my art work and sailing the islands back and forth to Alaska. I will write my book as an exercise in thought. There’s no money in it.

The route to $ is in videos if you really know what you are doing and have a great video presence.

If anyone other than skiff builders looks at how many views I get with my skiff builds and past designs on just this site on a weekly basis you can see that guys like me are generating a huge amount of daily viewing which generates all the advertising you see here.
It would be cool if they gave away a six pack a week for the most views by one thread. 
As for questions after this build thread I will just refer everyone to this site, this thread, And my blogs.

Hope you get some ideas and info from this thread and build.


----------



## Guest

Chris Morejohn said:


> A few years ago I noticed many guys on this Microskiff site complaining about the high cost of a high end well built flats skiff. I decided to show those that had common sense and a bit of energy that anyone can build a top of the line skiff if having the right plans of a good hull shape and design if so inclined.
> With this in mind I started providing detailed hull design plans and to go along with my plans unlimited advice and direction in how to complete a skiff build.
> My goal was not money oriented but to help the common man create something that worked very well for its intend purpose and to save these builders a small fortune in real cash.
> The time it takes to design a proper skiff and put it to paper is one thing, but the amount of time I have spent answering questions and giving advice is another matter.
> One of the first builds here on this site got things rolling with you all. The builder asked me during his first build over 130 emails it’s many questions from start to finish on everything. I gladly answered and also provided advice during his build thread here. I did this as part of the initial plans cost and still answer his questions for free 3 years later.
> I want to show everyone how it’s done. Well at least my way.
> 
> I have never been sponsored by anyone or any product. I have been told that I should do what Boatbrains is wanting to do.
> It’s just not in my personality.
> 
> On my 2 blogs I have over 450,000 readers and viewers with an average of 12,000 reads a month. You don’t want to know how many emails I answer each day....for free.
> 
> 
> I understand why Boatbrains is wanting to go this route.
> 
> I know that there are plenty of people that follow my blogs and threads. I hope that some of my info has helped others. I know that others will capitalize on my past ideas and incorporate it into “their” new designs and way of doing builds.
> 
> I am fine with this.
> 
> I always say it’s my design and build and if you like it you will come back for more.
> In my art work world I do unique pieces and I am very happy that others see what I saw and are willing to pay $ for this.
> 
> So...to answer your question,
> 
> NO I am not interested in doing videos. My plan is to finish this build showing here on Microskiff how I build skiffs.
> Once done I will be moving to a small quiet island in the Gulf islands in BC to our new property and plan On spending the next years just designing small boats, doing my art work and sailing the islands back and forth to Alaska. I will write my book as an exercise in thought. There’s no money in it.
> 
> The route to $ is in videos if you really know what you are doing and have a great video presence.
> 
> If anyone other than skiff builders looks at how many views I get with my skiff builds and past designs on just this site on a weekly basis you can see that guys like me are generating a huge amount of daily viewing which generates all the advertising you see here.
> It would be cool if they gave away a six pack a week for the most views by one thread.
> As for questions after this build thread I will just refer everyone to this site, this thread, And my blogs.
> 
> Hope you get some ideas and info from this thread and build.


I am one of those readers Chris! Your writings are just too cool in my opinion so thank you! Thank you for sharing with us your knowledge and journey! I might be a bit seasoned with this line of work too, but you can bet the hogfish maximus that I have learned some cool tips n tricks from you sir and I thank you! It is in fact you’re designs and builds from back in the day that started this whole microskiff/technical poling skiff addiction we all have now!


----------



## DuckNut

@Chris Morejohn 
In your pictures I see this white thing with yellow straps attached to it on your hat. Is this to keep your hat in place to help keep your head warm while working?

Your doing a great service to the members of our community as well as those outside.

Thank you for your generosity.


----------



## Guest

DuckNut said:


> @Chris Morejohn
> In your pictures I see this white thing with yellow straps attached to it on your hat. Is this to keep your hat in place to help keep your head warm while working?
> 
> Your doing a great service to the members of our community as well as those outside.
> 
> Thank you for your generosity.


It’s there to keep the dust off his cap, no point ruining a perfectly good ball cap man! 
Ok, seriously... by keeping the dust mask there it is hard to forget about and very convenient to drop down over your face when needed.


----------



## DuckNut

Boatbrains said:


> It’s there to keep the dust off his cap, no point ruining a perfectly good ball cap man!
> Ok, seriously... by keeping the dust mask there it is hard to forget about and very convenient to drop down over your face when needed.


Also looks like it is keeping the dust off his headlamp.


----------



## Monoman

Chris Morejohn said:


> ...
> 
> I have never been sponsored by anyone or any product. I have been told that I should do what Boatbrains is wanting to do.
> It’s just not in my personality.
> 
> On my 2 blogs I have over 450,000 readers and viewers with an average of 12,000 reads a month. You don’t want to know how many emails I answer each day....for free.
> 
> 
> I understand why Boatbrains is wanting to go this route.
> 
> I know that there are plenty of people that follow my blogs and threads. I hope that some of my info has helped others. I know that others will capitalize on my past ideas and incorporate it into “their” new designs and way of doing builds.
> 
> I am fine with this.
> 
> I always say it’s my design and build and if you like it you will come back for more.
> In my art work world I do unique pieces and I am very happy that others see what I saw and are willing to pay $ for this.
> 
> So...to answer your question,
> 
> NO I am not interested in doing videos. My plan is to finish this build showing here on Microskiff how I build skiffs.
> Once done I will be moving to a small quiet island in the Gulf islands in BC to our new property and plan On spending the next years just designing small boats, doing my art work and sailing the islands back and forth to Alaska. I will write my book as an exercise in thought. There’s no money in it.
> .....


Chris,

Thanks for the posts! You could setup a Patreon account and just let people voluntarily donate to you. I know of others that help people for free (in another industry) and let people donate via Patreon.


----------



## DuckNut

Monoman said:


> Chris,
> 
> Thanks for the posts! You could setup a Patreon account and just let people voluntarily donate to you. I know of others that help people for free (in another industry) and let people donate via Patreon.


I don't think he is going to get many donations from the skiff industry. I might be wrong but I did stay at a Holiday Inn last night.


----------



## Monoman

DuckNut said:


> I don't think he is going to get many donations from the skiff industry. I might be wrong but I did stay at a Holiday Inn last night.


Me too. I would typically agree but it does seem like these days some folks with a knack for entertaining or providing valuable information (or both!) find people willing to chip in a little. It may not be much but every bit helps and I'm sure Chris wouldn't mind the appreciation.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Monoman said:


> Me too. I would typically agree but it does seem like these days some folks with a knack for entertaining or providing valuable information (or both!) find people willing to chip in a little. It may not be much but every bit helps and I'm sure Chris wouldn't mind the appreciation.


thanks for thinking of me but I just like to just go about my business and not feel like I owe someone something.
As for boat company’s and getting a bit of $ from them, at present I have been hired to and have designed skiffs for these company's.
CUDA Craft, Piranha boatworks, Biscayne boatworks, Hayarri marine, Floyd Skiff Co., STIK Skiff co., Machete Marine, and Dragonfly boats building one of my past designs.

I have not had a chance to sand the Beryllium till tomorrow.
The past couple of days I did get a bit of time in on the Pufferfish.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Shown here is a design and build I did 29 years ago in the Virgin Islands when working for Gold Coast Yacths. They wanted me to teach the local school shop teacher how to build like we were doing when building their large day charter multihulls. They wanted to get young kids going with a trade so they could hire them out of high school. It was a fun side project. There are so many ways to build a skiff.


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## Chris Morejohn

Sanded the Beryllium hull today taking 4 hours time. Did a bit on the Pufferfish adding in a radius in epoxy with silaca filler.
Took 2 hours to vacuume up the shop.
The hull is faired now except the chine edges which need to be sharpened. I will do this next week. I will also add in the inner radiuses now along with adding on the lifting strakes and reverse strakes. I will do this next week as I have lots of other things going on till then.
Eric and I will glass the Puffer fish next week with Basalt cloth so she should be ready by end of the week to come off her molds and Eric can start on the other half.
I learned this method from a very nice scallop.

I will be along with Eric Kimes at the Haddrell Point water show in Charleston SC the 18th -19th of this month with Brian and Heidi Floyd and their 10 Weight skiff. I will bring my master list of Hells Bay skiffs built for those that want to see what skiffs cost back then, along with my design plans to show what I’ve done to improve on my past HB Pro design with the 10 Weight, BERILLIUM and other recent skiff designs. I will bring my Basalt test panels half
























































models and lots of old Hells Bay photos.
Would love to meet you all that are going to this event.


----------



## Guest

Chris Morejohn said:


> Sanded the Beryllium hull today taking 4 hours time. Did a bit on the Pufferfish adding in a radius in epoxy with silaca filler.
> Took 2 hours to vacuume up the shop.
> The hull is faired now except the chine edges which need to be sharpened. I will do this next week. I will also add in the inner radiuses now along with adding on the lifting strakes and reverse strakes. I will do this next week as I have lots of other things going on till then.
> Eric and I will glass the Puffer fish next week with Basalt cloth so she should be ready by end of the week to come off her molds and Eric can start on the other half.
> I learned this method from a very nice scallop.
> 
> I will be along with Eric Kimes at the Haddrell Point water show in Charleston SC the 18th -19th of this month with Brian and Heidi Floyd and their 10 Weight skiff. I will bring my master list of Hells Bay skiffs built for those that want to see what skiffs cost back then, along with my design plans to show what I’ve done to improve on my past HB Pro design with the 10 Weight, BERILLIUM and other recent skiff designs. I will bring my Basalt test panels half
> View attachment 112018
> View attachment 112020
> View attachment 112022
> View attachment 112024
> View attachment 112026
> View attachment 112028
> View attachment 112030
> View attachment 112032
> models and lots of old Hells Bay photos.
> Would love to meet you all that are going to this event.


Looking great brother, rock on!


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Today i got in 4 hours work on the BERILLIUM.
I added in the inner chine radiuses, filled the outer chine edges in to be able to sand back to a sharp edge when cured.
Shown below is my sanding contraption. This setup worked well to initially fair the hulls flat surfaces.
You have to use it at the very lowest speeds using a buffing type sander. I like about 1000 RPMs. Let it float across it or to just slightly tilt to keep it from wobbling about. Watch out for the edges.
I used a piece of core in Lew of 1/8” ply from Seth Sawyer’s suggestion and I am quite happy with this.
I will explain some of my fairing thoughts in between the photos if I can.








Shown here are 2 dark glass spots. They are high spots. As soon as these show up stop sanding that area and move on. They are caused by the strip plank seams being proud or high.
There will be a slight low in between. This can be filled in later if needed but most likely the hull is fair now.








here you can see the plank high spots.
I have just barely exposed the black colored Basalt cloth.
The spaces in between are fair to the dark edges so no more filling needed.








here is a low spot on the chine. Any shinny low spots I wipe clean with vinegar. I can then fill these in. The inner chine edge roughness I don’t worry about because I will fillet over and cover this right up








These low spots here I wipe with vinegar to remove the blush and because I will fillet over rough spots like these will disappear. its easier than sanding to just wipe clean, and faster, just takes a minute.








The pencil is pointing at the Basalt cloth that’s been exposed. You can see how the weave changes color as it’s been sanded away. This was the worst spot on the whole hull. It’s no big deal. The primer paint coat will seal and cover this up. It will have small holes in it so I will wipe a bit of filler over it when final touching up to fair and fill any small porosity that might be in this spot. When primed it will show up any pinholes. You then fill these with a lacquer base filler or a good smooth Bondo type marine filler. Epoxy in not good to use as a filler because it will be harder than the surrounding fairing and can cause low spots as you Fair it down. More on this later.
The circled holes I will fill in later after the lifting strakes and reverse strakes are in place as these could be covered up so why Fair too much. Just whats needed.








Now you can see all the radiused inner chines and the outer chines filled ready to be faired off. The sheer channel slot I will sand last.








I will use the 8” round sanding disc with the sander shown to sand the outer chine edges fair and flat, going at the slowest speed it can go. I will then hand sand with the long board all the edges, sides top and bottom. 








Once everything is fair here I will add the lifting strake and the reverse spray strake. I have other things to do so this will happen next week. i could remove the sheer wood form but tey are nice to lean against so will leave till the last minute.

















I am using Eric’s sander here. I have used for years the Makita equivalent but this sander is great. Took me few minutes to get used to the new handle design. It’s a variable speed buffer mostly but really works great for this type of fairing. 
I screw the foam pad to the foam core and glued it too with epoxy.


----------



## Guest

Looks great!


----------



## Guest

Sittin here waiting for more updates like


----------



## DuckNut

Aldoni said:


> Sittin here waiting for more updates like



Looks like he just shot a load in his pants.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Will be back at it working on the skiffs now.
Here is what I paid for my build supplies.
If ordering from US Compostite ask for Belen.
Tell her I gave you this info.
Belen said she would give the same prices to others.
My load was delivered free of shipping charges.
Nick that sells the Basalt cloth should do the same. 
let me know if this changes.
The amounts I bought were for several skiffs. Just look at the rates.


----------



## GaG8tor

Thank you for sharing that


----------



## ChrisMA21

This is awesome. I just bought the plans for the Beryllium about two weeks ago so the really helps with cost estimates. Thank you for sharing


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Putting on the lifting strakes and reverse strakes.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

I use silica in the resin to act as glue to help the cloth not move. Epoxy resin is very slippery


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Jumping to the Pufferfish now.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Now Mr. Pufferfish is up on his side. Will Fair out the inside and glass. Then start on the other side building it in the opposite direction so it will fit together like a clam.
Will work on finish fairing of the Beryllium. The tent heats up vey quickly.


----------



## KWGator

Chris Morejohn said:


> I use silica in the resin to act as glue to help the cloth not move. Epoxy resin is very slippery


Why did you not use the basalt cloth at this step? Is it not flexible enough?
Thank you for the pictures and process.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

KWGator said:


> Why did you not use the basalt cloth at this step? Is it not flexible enough?
> Thank you for the pictures and process.


Good question sir. The Basalt cloth I ordered feels like 12 oz cloth. It sets out great but to me it’s a bit stiff to bend over these tight radiuses. I would have preferred to use say 7 oz cloth in Basalt instead. I did not think to order for this so just went with my 10 oz eglass cloth instead. If I was building in Basalt in a mood that would be a different story as I would be filling in these with Matt and cloth and then glassing over with the heavier weave.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Lifted off the Beryllium hull today from the jig. It’s cold up here averaging around 50 degrees in the shop so decided to move into building the inside of the hull as the rest will be done in polyester resin. I can glass and then turn on the heat and it will cure way quicker than the epoxy. I will build the skiff and then roll back over to finish painting the outside of the hull.
The hull weighed about 130 lbs. Eric Kimes did a full bench with its 18’9” length. There are good videos of this full size on my Instagram site. Too much trouble to post on this site.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

The hull sitting off to the side today while I get sheets glassed and the Pufferfishes inside faired out ready for the glass skin.


----------



## Mike Haydon

That is so beautiful sitting there!!!!! I so want to try this soon.


----------



## bryson

Looks good! Hoping you glass the inside before I do mine, so that I can try to get some more tips


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Glassing bulkhead and interior part sheets up today. In between the polyester resin skins curing I epoxied a bit on the PFISH.
Polyester resin gives off styrene fumes so I glass the panels sides up with a regular fan on blowing the fumes out the back of the tent and when they get blown out I then start up the propane torch blower and in 30 minutes the tent is 70 degrees and my polyester parts are cured. Tomorrow I move the hull back into the tent and Fair out the hull reading for glassing on Monday.


----------



## 17376

Chris what glass are you using to layup the inside panels?


----------



## jeopardy954

BE CAREFUL running that propane heater indoors!!! Make sure you’re well ventilated! 

I happen to work at the only place in NC that can treat carbon monoxide poisoning, you don’t want to be meeting me in a professional capacity!!!


----------



## firecat1981

Question on the propane heaters. Have you ever had a reaction with the resin? Several times on the bbc forum guys were cautioned about possible contamination with them.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

jeopardy954 said:


> BE CAREFUL running that propane heater indoors!!! Make sure you’re well ventilated!
> 
> I happen to work at the only place in NC that can treat carbon monoxide poisoning, you don’t want to be meeting me in a professional capacity!!!


thanks for the concern. The shop is a quite large Old building with lots of air leaks about. What I am doing now that it’s polyester resin is I glass my parts with a fan blowing across the build to move the styrene fumes out and away. Once my parts are glassed in the sub 50 degree shop I then blow all the styrene fumes out from the tent and then I start up the propane heater. In 30 minutes inside the tent it gets up to 70 degrees and the parts cure totally. I am mainly looking for them to start gelling. Once they get to 60 degrees heat they are on their way to kicking off.
With the epoxy resin it’s the same thing. Get the tent to 70 and turn it off. Then the epoxy will cure over night. When all this is going on I am monitoring in the next bay. Shop is huge.

Travis and others, I layup my bulkheads in full sheets as I can control the sheet staying flat when glassing. The standard layup is 1 layer 1-1/2 oz matt and 1 layer of 10 oz cloth. In a big shop I would use 3/4 oz matt and 7 oz cloth to save weight and lots of my interior part builds I just use the core with just a layer of cloth only.
I will show later this week where I vary from part to part. It adds up in both wasted $ and weight.
Remember most all your bulkheads are in compression only.

as for reactions you might be thinking of epoxy. Some people are very susceptible to epoxy skin irritations. I have never had this problem.
The thing you all have to know is in a confined space, a room with no ventilation a respirator is not enough, your eye balls are an open membrane to your body and they will absorb all the fumes too.
The respirators help in ingesting mostly.
At almost 62 I have been very careful over my career with all this goo and goop.

shown is the deck build and interior for the Beryllium skiff build.
I will use my hinge design, and my goal is to have no hoses in the lockers at all. My hatches lips will be 3” deep. The yellow is all the vertical core interior pieces.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

View attachment 115570
View attachment 115572
View attachment 115574


jeopardy954 said:


> BE CAREFUL running that propane heater indoors!!! Make sure you’re well ventilated!
> 
> I happen to work at the only place in NC that can treat carbon monoxide poisoning, you don’t want to be meeting me in a professional capacity!!!


thanks for the concern. The shop is a quite large Old building with lots of air leaks about. What I am doing now that it’s polyester resin is I glass my parts with a fan blowing across the build to move the styrene fumes out and away. Once my parts are glassed in the sub 50 degree shop I then blow all the styrene fumes out from the tent and then I start up the propane heater. In 30 minutes inside the tent it gets up to 70 degrees and the parts cure totally. I am mainly looking for them to start gelling. Once they get to 60 degrees heat they are on their way to kicking off.
With the epoxy resin it’s the same thing. Get the tent to 70 and turn it off. Then the epoxy will cure over night. When all this is going on I am monitoring in the next bay. Shop is huge.

Travis and others, I layup my bulkheads in full sheets as I can control the sheet staying flat when glassing. The standard layup is 1 layer 1-1/2 oz matt and 1 layer of 10 oz cloth. In a big shop I would use 3/4 oz matt and 7 oz cloth to save weight and lots of my interior part builds I just use the core with just a layer of cloth only.
I will show later this week where I vary from part to part. It adds up in both wasted $ and weight.
Remember most all your bulkheads are in compression only.

as for reactions you might be thinking of epoxy. Some people are very susceptible to epoxy skin irritations. I have never had this problem.
The thing you all have to know is in a confined space, a room with no ventilation a respirator is not enough, your eye balls are an open membrane to your body and they will absorb all the fumes too.
The respirators help in ingesting mostly.
At almost 62 I have been very careful over my career with all this goo and goop.

shown is the deck build and interior for the Beryllium skiff build.
I will use my hinge design, and my goal is to have no hoses in the lockers at all. My hatches lips will be 3” deep. The yellow is all the vertical core interior pieces.
View attachment 115570
View attachment 115572
View attachment 115574


----------



## bryson

Chris,

Do you have any pictures of how the cloth looks after you remove the peel-ply?

I did a test last weekend, and everything worked very well, but the surface doesn't have as much texture as I was expecting. It removed the blush wonderfully, but I'm a little hesitant to lay new glass directly on it without sanding. I think it's just that the "thread count" of the peel ply was higher than I expected. I used 100% polyester dress lining rather than peel ply, since I could grab it locally.


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## Chris Morejohn

Been busy with other projects this week, plus losing a couple days to a flu. Will glass the inside on Monday. In the mean time here are some drawings of how I will build my hatch gutters and hinges.
My goal is to have hatches that can be removed by just disconnecting the hatch lifts and just lifting the hatch out.
I have spent so many hours removing hatches from skiffs to repair things below for better access that I can up with this design.
No leaks ever and with this design I will have the deepest hatch lip edges ever by at least 1-1/2” deeper. Should be the driest lockers with this setup. Well.... we will see.


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## Chris Morejohn

Floor, drain, hatch and hinge details and transoms.
Ideas to ponder.


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## 17376

@Chris Morejohn I see in one of your drawings you show outer hull layup in poly as 1.5 csm and 2 layers of 10oz. Do you not have to put mat in between the layers of 10oz. Or as long as you layup wet you can put two layers of 10oz on top of the single layer of csm?


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## Chris Morejohn

T


Travis Smith said:


> @Chris Morejohn I see in one of your drawings you show outer hull layup in poly as 1.5 csm and 2 layers of 10oz. Do you not have to put mat in between the layers of 10oz. Or as long as you layup wet you can put two layers of 10oz on top of the single layer of csm?


travis,
Yes I Feel you can put the 10 oz cloth layers top of each other no problem. The matt makes the cloth bond better to the core and then you get to make up 20 oz. of material by doubling up.
If you had a full shop you could have a roll of 18oz about and use that instead. This is when using polyester resin.
I also feel you need the 1-1/2 oz Matt layer first to bed biaxel in because they matt it has stitched to it is not enough of a bedding thickness when wet with polyester resin.
You need to hard roll it all when last layer is down.


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## GaG8tor

Trying to estimate and figure out sourcing for materials for a Conchfish. I see you guys use polyester resin a lot. Any preference of poly over epoxy? Does core material make a difference? I’m aware of the bonding factor, or lack thereof with epoxy over poly. Thanks, Lee.


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## Mike Haydon

@Chris Morejohn looks like a great new way of thinking about the hatches. Do you worry about the hinge tolerances getting looser as time goes on if making them out of fiberglass and not glassing in some type of bushing? And you also state weight must be removed for self bailing. Do you mean gear or removing weight from the build itself? Thanks, 
Michael


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## Chris Morejohn

Mike Haydon said:


> @Chris Morejohn looks like a great new way of thinking about the hatches. Do you worry about the hinge tolerances getting looser as time goes on if making them out of fiberglass and not glassing in some type of bushing? And you also state weight must be removed for self bailing. Do you mean gear or removing weight from the build itself? Thanks,
> Michael


Gagator, polyester resin is less expensive and has styrene which can smell up a garage. Epoxy costs more but leaves no odor 

The hinge can be made up of multiple layers of cloth. Can be carbon fiber cloth, if either one is used will be extremely strong. These can be glued in place and then glassed over and around to never move. This is all standard one off stuff. All my stantions on my sailboat are made out of fiberglass with 22 years of climbing aboard my boat using them as a pry bar to get up and aboard. No failures. My Diesel engines running gear, strut and supports are all made of fiberglass, as are all my rudders steering pintals and gudgeons with 38,000 sea miles.
These hinges will not fail. 
they can be made out of aluminum or SS too.
The pivot pin can be a bolt with gasketed washers on each side and the hatch does not need to be as easily removable. Just Bolt it in place. 
Look at the drawings better. I specified Delrin or starboard sheaves on each side of the pivot pin. These can be shaped easily to allow the pivot pin to just slide into the slot. No play and no play if the pivot bolt/pin is contained.

What I mean by weight is all the sports need to get their weight out of the skiff so it can float high enough to self bail. If you make the cockpit sole high enough to self bail when aboard then it changes rod storage and seating height.


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## GaG8tor

Thanks man. I will be building outside under a steel carport so hopefully it won’t be an issue. The missus is gonna make me wear a respirator anyhow I just know it. I’ll drop some plastic sheeting down when it comes time for priming and paint. Hoping to start in April and be finished by flood tide season. I’ll get plans and core ordered next month. I started following you on IG the other day. I created an account specifically for boat building purposes. Lots of good information there. You are a saint for sharing all this.


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## trekker

Chris Morejohn said:


> Will be back at it working on the skiffs now.
> Here is what I paid for my build supplies.
> If ordering from US Compostite ask for Belen.
> Tell her I gave you this info.
> Belen said she would give the same prices to others.
> My load was delivered free of shipping charges.
> Nick that sells the Basalt cloth should do the same.
> let me know if this changes.
> The amounts I bought were for several skiffs. Just look at the rates.
> View attachment 113346
> View attachment 113348
> View attachment 113350


How'd you manage to get free shipping?


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## Mike Haydon

Looks like they delivered to a different address (business). Might have had something to do with the free shipping.


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## Chris Morejohn

trekker said:


> How'd you manage to get free shipping?


Well..... I said I had a bunch of custom build clients that I could send their way if they wanted and could they help them out. I bought enough materials for 3 skiff builds and they said the shipping was on them. Lucky me.
38 Conchfish16 builds going on now, 12 CF 17.5s, 7 Lithium skiffs, 10 Berylliums, 2 Slippery Dicks, 2 Megalops, 2 Boron skiffs, 1 Pufferfish and the Turbots plans are almost ready to be sent out.
They should get a bit of this biz along with Carbon Core, Raka and the others.


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## Mike Haydon

There needs to be a dedicated conchfish build page. Just pics and posts from builders. Not for comments.


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## texasag07

Chris what design was the megalops plans and how do they differ from the beryllium plans?


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## Chris Morejohn

texasag07 said:


> Chris what design was the megalops plans and how do they differ from the beryllium plans?


Here is a sampler of different skiff hulls. The Beryllium has the same amount of VEE at station 5-8 as the Megalops which is my updated version of my past HB Marquesas design. 
To me all the chop happens from station #5 forward.
You can see how much wider the Beryllium hull is than the other hulls other than the Marquesa which they have the same footprint. Shown are the basic vee bottom versions without the pads cut out or my usual lower chine pocket detail which I much prefer over conventional chines.


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## Chris Morejohn

Finally got some time in to start glassing the interior this afternoon.
Will finish up in the morning. It’s warm here today and the next few days. I like to work alone so this is a good way to lay up the hull without much fuss. I started at 1:00 pm and got all but the stern left to do by 5:00. Using polyester resin on the insides. 
Bottom to the upper chine is 1 layer 1-1/2 oz Matt then 2layers 10 oz cloth on top. 
from the upper chine over the sheer it’s just 1 matt and 1 cloth.
The outside of the hull in epoxy including the fairing took 7 gals.
The inside will take 5 gals polyester resin.
All my fillets are resin mixed with silica.
My dad had the same bald spot on his head too. Looks like I’am getting a bit of resin on my EastCape tee shirt. Best to wear a plastic apron. When the hull is cured inside I will lower it to the floor level and then it will be easy to step in and out of when installing the interior. At this level though it’s very easy on my back.
It’s very easy to lift the hull around on my own.....at this point.


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## bryson

Looking good! Impressive how you can roll out those wrinkles in the cloth -- took me lots of work, even on the outside of the hull. I'm assuming the inside will be even more difficult. Got any tips?


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## texasag07

What prep did you do to the layers that had already been cured on the opposite side of the hull before you laid these layers in?


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## Chris Morejohn

bryson said:


> Looking good! Impressive how you can roll out those wrinkles in the cloth -- took me lots of work, even on the outside of the hull. I'm assuming the inside will be even more difficult. Got any tips?


Bryson, what I do is to roll up the cloth in small tight rolls very neatly. I mark which way the cloth need to start from with a felt pen as each piece is not rectangular in shape.
I can then reach out and flop the cloth roll down where it needs to start, Aline it and start to roll it out and can now control its inner edge by just unrolling and pulling it in ward. It’s good to roll out a foot or so and wet it out. This holds it in place. Then when fully out you can push the few wrinkles out of the way.
If the rolls is too big it will leave big wrinkles in place as you roll it out.
The bottom skin has 1 matt and 2 cloths.


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## lemaymiami

Am I correct that you're laying out the roll ahead of the last wetted out glass then rolling it out toward the previously laid wetted glass instead of away from it? If so you must know to the inch just how much a new piece will cover before you lay it down and get started rolling it out....

I was taught a bit of glass work years and years ago (Bill Aman's shop in Dania, late seventies..) and I'm reading every post on these threads and trying to absorb as much of it as possible....


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## albrighty_then

When using mat w/ polyester, would you need to overlap the mat between pieces or would you just overlap the cloth?


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## Chris Morejohn

albrighty_then said:


> When using mat w/ polyester, would you need to overlap the mat between pieces or would you just overlap the cloth?


I feel you just need to butt the Matt and hard roll it together.... but on the inside of the hull it does not matter so much to have a hump. So... yea just make sure it’s lapping.


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## Chris Morejohn

Today’s work. Laying up the cockpit floor. I use tooth picks the butt the pieces together till laminated. started rough cutting out interior parts.


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## texasag07

@Chris Morejohn how did you prep the previous layers of glass laid the day/days before just and sand and clean when not laying up wet on wet?


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## Guest

Looks great Chris!


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## 17376

That looks good Chris.


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## bryson

Looking great! Love the picture of the new "shop supervisor" too.


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## Sublime

@Chris Morejohn When do you typically call it quits when working with epoxy in high humidity? The weather here is Texas has been, for the most part, soggy and humid. My garage floor is sweating like a glass of ice tea on a hot humid summer day. My next window to glass is looking like temps in the 60s and drizzle.


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## Chris Morejohn

texasag07 said:


> @Chris Morejohn how did you prep the previous layers of glass laid the day/days before just and sand and clean when not laying up wet on wet?


With polyester resin you have 48 hours time between glassing than it’s fine to just go over. Afterwards you just need to agitate the surface with a scotch brite pad or by lightly grinding where you will glass. It’s way more forgiving than epoxy, but all you have to do to epoxy is just wash off with warm water, vinegar and that’s it.


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## Chris Morejohn

Sublime said:


> @Chris Morejohn When do you typically call it quits when working with epoxy in high humidity? The weather here is Texas has been, for the most part, soggy and humid. My garage floor is sweating like a glass of ice tea on a hot humid summer day. My next window to glass is looking like temps in the 60s and drizzle.


You are getting lots of moisture in your cement slab because there is no plastic moisture barrier on the ground before the cement was poured.
Anything over 85% humidity is deemed too much. My feeling is use floor fans to blow out the moisture and just check the humidity in the air. Or if your build is in. Small garage just layup and use a dehumidifier.


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## Chris Morejohn

For those that like numbers here are the stats for these two different hull designs.
I believe I am the only flats skiff designer to share my design hull lines and numbers to the public. To me it shows exactly what you are getting and it explains the whole thought process of a hulls origin. Would be so cool if the others did this.































You can also see the aluminum numbers here for the Boron build. Total hull weight comes out at 615 lbs. then add tower, steering, batt, etc. the plans are also most finished. Builders will be able to have all parts cut out via CNC.


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## Sublime

Chris Morejohn said:


> You are getting lots of moisture in your cement slab because there is no plastic moisture barrier on the ground before the cement was poured.
> Anything over 85% humidity is deemed too much. My feeling is use floor fans to blow out the moisture and just check the humidity in the air. Or if your build is in. Small garage just layup and use a dehumidifier.



Thanks Chris. I have a shop heater that I can use. It should get the humidity down.

(and the garage sweats because of out temp swings. Cool slab and warm, humid air = condensation) Nothing to do with moister barriers.


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## Chris Morejohn

Finished cutting and fitting all the parts today. Will fillet in tomorrow and then glass everything in. Fuel tank will hold 28 gals as shown. Console will be glassed to the cockpit floor after its glassed and faired.


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## jeopardy954

Will you use your hatch design on the console door?


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## Tigweld

Chris, how tall are the stringers at the rear bulkhead?


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## Tigweld

Console looks great


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## Guest

Tigweld said:


> Console looks great


Love the old school simplicity of it!


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## Chris Beutel

Chris Morejohn said:


> View attachment 117690
> View attachment 117692
> View attachment 117694
> View attachment 117696
> View attachment 117698
> View attachment 117700
> View attachment 117702
> View attachment 117704
> View attachment 117706
> View attachment 117708
> 
> 
> Today’s work. Laying up the cockpit floor. I use tooth picks the butt the pieces together till laminated. started rough cutting out interior parts.
> View attachment 117690
> View attachment 117692
> View attachment 117694
> View attachment 117696
> View attachment 117698
> View attachment 117700
> View attachment 117702
> View attachment 117704


Chris,

How did you finish the trim tab cutouts? Did you make a glass block and glue it it? Thanks for all the udpates, definitely provides a ton of guidence.

Thanks,
Chris


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## Chris Morejohn

Got the parts radiused in. I use 50/50 bubbles silica mix. 
The floor is not designed to be self bailing but most likely will work.
The aft stringers are at 6” which gives the deck 15” to the floor then add the cushion on top.
The forward bulkhead is 15” too but with a good slope aft. I don’t like them too high for my old fart friends with weak knees. But basically thinking and realizing I'am getting to be an old fart too and I don’t like big drops.
The inside of the console will be taped in with 1 layer of Matt.
The cockpits aft edge will have this drop down gutter detail.
The trim tab pockets will get 1/4” of matt and cloth layers so I can just drill and tap the trim tab bolts into this thickness and never have to deal with nuts and washers. I can then glass over once more and no leaks ever.
The console door will use low profile standard hinge. The door will have a fully gasketed flange on the inside which I will make custom.


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## Fritz

Chris why did you go 50/50 on silica and bubbles for those radiuses?

In addition to being rock hard, does the silica make the bond structurally stronger?

It won’t be long before I’m gluing a deck down and wondering how that epoxy should be thickened.


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## Guest

Fritz said:


> Chris why did you go 50/50 on silica and bubbles for those radiuses?
> 
> In addition to being rock hard, does the silica make the bond structurally stronger?
> 
> It won’t be long before I’m gluing a deck down and wondering how that epoxy should be thickened.


A certain amount of silica is needed to make the putty hang on a vertical surface and to maintain the shape of the radius. Without the silica, the putty would want to flow out and sag. In other words, the silica makes the putty more clay like.


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## Chris Morejohn

Fritz said:


> Chris why did you go 50/50 on silica and bubbles for those radiuses?
> 
> In addition to being rock hard, does the silica make the bond structurally stronger?
> 
> It won’t be long before I’m gluing a deck down and wondering how that epoxy should be thickened.


Well everyone has different thoughts on putty fillets.
Here’s my version.
When using epoxy resin silica for sure makes the fillets hold their shape easier than straight glass bubbles or QCells would if not mixed thick enough. So it’s good to add some silica to the mix/ blend if you have some around but it’s not really needed.
By the time you have finished filleting in your build you will have an idea of what mix ratio works best for you.
In my designs YOU HAVE TO GLASS IN ALL COMPONENTS AFTER FILLETING. Don’t just rely on the fillets as they WILL FAIL in time.
When filleting in a nice radius you are making it way easier and stronger for your fiberglass tape the make the sharp bends.
In the design end you have your bulkheads, or parts panel thickness against the hull and then the radiuses width added along with you fiberglass clothes tabbing width added to secure and hold your structure in place. If using 4” wide 1-1/2 oz. Matt tabbing then you will end up with a 5” wide bonding area from side to side.
A 1/2” wide radiused in bulkhead in epoxy is not enough area for bonding loads. It will crack and fail.
If you don’t glass in the entire build you will end up with many cracks and eventual interior failures. With out the radiuses but just straight glassing in you will not have as neat a build look and possible weak edges.
I used 50/50 mix here using polyester resin because I have a huge bag of silica that I want to use And this mix flows nicely.

As for your deck bonding because you are building in epoxy I would just bond using the same ratio of 50/50 or what ever you have most of. I would just look to get an even putty bond line going around the sheer.
Once cured I would roll the skiff upside down and then carefully fillet in the whole deck and all structural parts going up into the hatches with the skiff up on saw horses. It’s how every HB is done since I started this method.
Then I would fill in your deck edge glue gap and she will then be totally watertight.
Your strength in my designs comes from all the parts being filleted and glassed together. It’s all very low tech. The idea is nothing moves. 
I never used silica in all the 352 Hells Bay skiff that we’re built during my time there.
It does help in certain vertical applications when using epoxy resins because they take longer to cure and if not adding a bit of silica to the mix and you glass up too thick a place or your putty mix is not thick enough it will help it from sagging or sliding away.
Polyester resin is way More forgivable And faster curing.


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## Copahee Hound

Thanks Chris, very informative! How are you filleting and tabbing the underside of small hatch compartments when you can't get your head AND hands in there? Using a mirror in the bottom of the compartment and doing it like a dentist?


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## 17376

Chris,

I know it’s kind of back and fourth on some things like layup schedules, when and where to tape etc. 

What really benefit does CSM without cloth have in taping a seam of a bulkhead if there is no strength to CSM? 

Jimmys CF that was totaled had 1708 on all bulkhead seams and it split the tape in half. In my opinion 1708 is stronger than 2 layers of CSM. 

You say the bulkheads are in compression only and in a epoxy build used 4 or 6oz cloth to cover bulkheads. What is csm equivalent strength ?


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## Backwater

Chris, just curious why you don't think your stringers don't run he length of the boat and are not as substantial as in other boats. I've had to break boats down after years of use and abuse, only to find stringers like that tabbed into bulkheads that fail over the stresses of the boat beating into waves and torquing. From what I've seen over the years with real world use and abuse, full length substantial stringers are a definite priority on any new build for me in the future.

Also, have you considered a molded plastic (not aluminum) fuel tank down in-between those stringers? You could add a semi-permanent access hatch, 5200 and SS screwed down, in the cockpit floor. So if it needs to be pulled, you'd have somewhat easy access to it. That way, you open up your front hatch more and you lower and center your center of gravity.


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## Mike Haydon

@Backwater the fuel tank will last a very long time. @Chris Morejohn as stated he has tanks still working as of to date since the vessels construction. And as far as the location, look at not another conchfish thread. He has a ballast tank in the front, that is where the tank would normally be and would not take up any if at all hatch space. It is essentially below the sole and taking up less room because its poured to the exact shape. 
Michael


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## Guest

Backwater said:


> Chris, just curious why you don't think your stringers don't run he length of the boat and are not as substantial as in other boats. I've had to break boats down after years of use and abuse, only to fin stringers like that tabbed into bulkheads that fail over the stresses of the boat beating into waves and torquing. From what I've seen over the years with real world use and abuse, full length substantial stringers are a definite priority on any new build for me in the future.
> 
> Also, have you considered a molded plastic (not aluminum) fuel tank down in-between those stringers? You could add a semi-permanent access hatch, 5200 and SS screwed down, in the cockpit floor. So if it needs to be pulled, you'd have somewhat easy access to it. That way, you open up your front hatch more and you lower and center your center of gravity.


Ted, On a properly cored hull with an engineered laminate schedule the core acts as a stringer itself. Look at all the old no floor HB’s, they are still holding strong. A solid/no core laminate such as the old Johnsen/Mitchell skiffs, Rangers, Maverick/Hewes, etc... need the stringers to stiffen the flexible solid lay up. The old Johnsen/Mitchells did fine with out stringers or core if they were used and powered as intended. Will let Chris chime in for further detail as this is his design...


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## Chris Morejohn

Travis Smith said:


> Chris,
> 
> I know it’s kind of back and fourth on some things like layup schedules, when and where to tape etc.
> 
> What really benefit does CSM without cloth have in taping a seam of a bulkhead if there is no strength to CSM?
> 
> Jimmys CF that was totaled had 1708 on all bulkhead seams and it split the tape in half. In my opinion 1708 is stronger than 2 layers of CSM.
> 
> You say the bulkheads are in compression only and in a epoxy build used 4 or 6oz cloth to cover bulkheads. What is csm equivalent strength ?


Travis and others,
The cool thing about building boats is everyone can try their own ideas out without any regulation. If building a house you have to follow codes.
When building to my plans I hope that the builder will use them as a guide to what I have found successful having built boats since 1976. 
I will truthfully say here that a lot of what I feel works for me is by my years of repairing and observing others builds, and by building and always trying out new things. This can mean that over the years I have seen that my skiffs built in the 70-80s have not failed so I have dialed back things and at today’s time what I put in my plans and say here is based on my seat of the pants experiences.
I am always looking to learn new things. 
One of the best ways to see what works and doesn’t is to repair skiffs. In my time I have rebuilt boats that have hit reefs, bridges other boats and been through hurricanes. I also have seen many a skiffs innards. It’s the best way to learn boat design I feel. 
I will use the latest CONCHFISH tragedy to explain what I see and why I like do do things my way.













First off if the rod racks are glassed in place on the hull and when the hull is flipped over they are radiused to the deck and even better Additionally glassed in place they will not pop out like this extreme case here. They will crack though in time over normal use.
It won’t kill the boat though. Just a crack. 










Here the stern deck has been bonded to the transom but not glassed to the stern well. 
#1 shows that the decks stern corner was not glassed down into the stern well. If it had been it would have strengthened the stern deck connection tremendously. This is what can be done on a one off build. Little details that last 35+ years. The inside of the deck was not glassed in place or filleted to the hull. The deck relied on the putty bond. There are no glass strands sticking out from the sheared deck separation. 
I find that biaxel cloth materials under load and when impacted sheers completely off. 
with CSM and multiple layers of 10oz cloth I have found it to be stronger and when fracturing you see the damaged material edges not seen Here.
#2 clean fracture of just putty only
#3 lots of bonding putty. Sheared right off.
#4 same
In normal life this skiff would be fine except I feel the stern corner at #1 could crack over time because of only relying on the putty bond.








the stern well details show that #1 either a very thin layer of glass cloth bonding the stern or just putty.#2 shows me a clean break down the stern. No fibers at all showing from the fracture.#3 shows a putty bond line that did not bond to the deck.#4 shows that the deck was just laped over and bonded to the stern well.
#5 shows the bottom of the well cracking.
All this came about over extreme circumstances so it’s not fair to the build but it will show what can be weak points with many years of an outboard hanging on the stern wracking the transom and testing the stern well when hitting oyster bars.
The stern and the stern well are the best places to reinforce your skiff by just adding multiple layers of Matt and cloth or if you want Matt and biaxel cloths. It must all be tied together well or you will have to go old school and build a massive heavy stern.











Lots of good old school info in books like this one.








I have glassed in all my hull parts since I started building boats like shown. If your whole hull is radiused and glassed in place nothing can move. When your skiff crashes into a bridge it will just be a big vee in its side but will not come all apart.
Like BB said above with cored hulls I use stingers where they matter, under the cockpit floor. The aft part of the skiff does not ever get out of the water so it’s plenty strong planning along and going on a trailer.

I say to use a single layer of 10 oz cloth on the bulkheads to save weight. CSM only I’ll weigh more. On the Beryllium skiff I am building I used 1 layer 1/1/2 oz Matt and 1 layer o 10oz cloth. I don’t want this skiff to be too light so this will be very strong. In the console I used 1 layer of cloth on the inside because it will never see abuse like the cockpit can see.
My suggestion is to layup panels of all your preferences materials, do radiuses and so and and then destroy. Then compare.


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## Mike Haydon

@Chris Morejohn , I know you are building this to give steps and instructions for a book. Are you building this skiff for yourself or a customer? Sorry if you have already said it. I have read through the thread several times to soak up all the info and dont recall you saying. Thanks, Michael


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## Chris Morejohn

Mike Haydon said:


> @Chris Morejohn , I know you are building this to give steps and instructions for a book. Are you building this skiff for yourself or a customer? Sorry if you have already said it. I have read through the thread several times to soak up all the info and dont recall you saying. Thanks, Michael


the skiff I am building is going to my crew member on my voyage to Easter Island a year ago Capt. Robert Alexander that will fish her out of Hilton head.
Shaping the console and other parts today. It’s snowing now here in Mt Olive the pickle capital of the world.


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## Tigweld

Nice


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## Chris Morejohn

console going together.


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## Chris Morejohn

Kinda cool here lately. Having worked in the heat all my life I like this working in 40-50 degree weather. With polyester resin I can do my job with no worries and when done I just run a heat gun over the work for a few passes and voila ! Cured in the cooler. No sweating now.
Stern well going together, and all parts getting tabbed in. Tomorrow the stringer/floor support gets glassed then the floor goes in. Will be starting the deck next week.


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## bryson

Looking fantastic, I really like that console!


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## GaG8tor

Very nice.


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## Fritz

Chris the Conchfish plans only specified 10oz glass... I think.

You’re using mat in this build. Why the change? What does the mat do differently?

And that console looks fantastic.


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## Chris Beutel

Fritz said:


> Chris the Conchfish plans only specified 10oz glass... I think.
> 
> You’re using mat in this build. Why the change? What does the mat do differently?
> 
> And that console looks fantastic.


I actually know the answer to this one. He is using Polyester Resin for the inside. Poly tends to shrink a little as it cures so you need the mat to make a good bond between the core and glass.


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## Mc_Fly

Hey Chris, what would the step up to the front deck height be if you didn’t put in a stringers/floor?


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## Chris Morejohn

The floor heights I use are 15” if possible. So it could be a if no floor in place around 21-22 inches.
Got a bit of glassing in after lunch today. 
When using polyester resin it’s easy to use matt cloth for tabbing in some parts. 
You can use matt with epoxy resin too. Just need to roll it out a bit more. I have built several boats with epoxy , Matt and cloth or biaxel.
I don’t like biaxel because the matt that’s sewn to the cloth strands is about 3/4 oz. the cloth fiber strands are sewn to each other.
When impacted they just sheer apart.
Do a test between the two materials and then tear apart. 
The stringers have matt, cloth,Matt cloth.
It’s tedious work but built this way I have never seen a failure in my builds over 35 years.
The floor gets glued, screwed and then glassed so this adds tremendous strength, while still being light. A real box build.


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## CKEAT

This build is a great follow, going to be a supper nice skiff


----------



## jeopardy954

Very interesting and informative, thank you for sharing your progress. 

what sort of hardware do you use for screwing the deck down? Is there any concern for hypoxic corrosion if you use a metal screw and then seal it off by glassing over?


----------



## CKEAT

Super not supper, Jesus. My thumbs don’t work right half the time on these phone keyboards


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Today Capt. Robert Alexander from Hilton Head SC brought up his new 70 Yamaha and trailer for his up coming Beryllium skiff.
We laid out the deck pattern and installed the rod tubes on one side of the hull to see how it will all feel.
Roberts goal is to have the simplest layout and rig as possible.
There will just be The bow running light wires and the bilge pump switch. Everything including the tac will be inside the console on the door.
The locker aft is big enough that his 5’9” frame can sleep below if wanting to.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

The openings in the deck pattern show the real hatch opening widths.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Don’t forget to drill out your stringers with limber holes. You would be amazed how many top end skiff builders forget to.
Aft rod tubes need to tilt up to drain.
The tube going into the aft well will get glassed in place at that angle. Once rigged there can be a sleeve hose claimed onto the pvc pipe and the rigging so no water can ever get below. Separate tubes so easy to re rig.


----------



## Mike Haydon

That thing looks amazing with the cap on. What colors has he chosen for everything?


----------



## Snookdaddy

Chris,

I have a question for you about my 2002 Waterman 18 side console. Do not want to derail your thread. Can I email you or text you.

Thanks,
Bob


----------



## GatorTrout

This entire thread is amazing. Makes me want to get my lazy tail off the water and build me a rig.


----------



## Guest

GatorTrout said:


> This entire thread is amazing. Makes me want to get my lazy tail off the water and build me a rig.


Do it!


----------



## trekker

Chris, Are you gonna be chasing steelhead in the coatal streams once you are settled in up in BC ?


----------



## Chris Morejohn

trekker said:


> Chris, Are you gonna be chasing steelhead in the coatal streams once you are settled in up in BC ?


yes, that and Halibut and all the other tasty fish out there.
Will be headed out there as soon as I finish this build. Should be done by mid April.
Got a few things done even with lots of interruptions.
Bought a used tower in a town named Zebulon an hours drive north of here. Cost $370.00.
Installing vertical air vents in the bulkheads to see about venting the lockers. Water won’t get in but air will.
Will cut out the hatch flanges tomorrow and glue and glass in place.
Then will bond the floor in place. After it goes in I will attach the last 2 rods racks.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

making the hatch flanges. Will install tomorrow


----------



## CodyW

I don't see any flats boats with locker vents other than bass boats. This is a pretty neat vent setup and a first on a flats boat to me


----------



## Mike Haydon

That looks to take up a lot of space to just vent the locker. Wouldn't a fuel vent do the same and look kind of nice with that polished tower?

@Chris Morejohn you have stated leaving in may. Are you going to build the boron skiff? I am disabled and am looking at the design very closely. I am thinking the design could be sanded out with a highbuild primer and make it easier on my back. I am planning on a center console build with a self bailing floor and two aft hatches that can be livewell or release wells. Also want to use the livewell for a raw water washdown if I run out of fresh water form a fiberglass tank up front. 

What is the differences of the boron and beryllium skiff load wise and rough water. I am looking more to a trolling motor and hauling capacity. Sometimes want the family to fit just to float down the river, and always want my dog to go. Thanks for any advice.
Michael (727)637-1241


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Cut out and fitted hatch flanges today. Cold, rainy here today. Good thing I am using polyester resin. Once glassed I use a heat gun for a minute and it cures. New reality for me as I'am used to sweating so much.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Floor installed. Tomorrow finish glassing in and then build fuel tank.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Mike Haydon said:


> That looks to take up a lot of space to just vent the locker. Wouldn't a fuel vent do the same and look kind of nice with that polished tower?
> 
> @Chris Morejohn you have stated leaving in may. Are you going to build the boron skiff? I am disabled and am looking at the design very closely. I am thinking the design could be sanded out with a highbuild primer and make it easier on my back. I am planning on a center console build with a self bailing floor and two aft hatches that can be livewell or release wells. Also want to use the livewell for a raw water washdown if I run out of fresh water form a fiberglass tank up front.
> 
> What is the differences of the boron and beryllium skiff load wise and rough water. I am looking more to a trolling motor and hauling capacity. Sometimes want the family to fit just to float down the river, and always want my dog to go. Thanks for any advice.
> Michael (727)637-1241


Mike,
I won’t be building the Boron now. Have had too many interruptions this winter.
Both designs will be good rough water skiffs. The Boron is being built by a few guys now. Will have it being built in aluminum by 3 different builders too. 
Once done with this build thread I will be moving out west and pretty much just concentrating on my design clients, my art and avoiding social media as my end game plan in life.


----------



## Sublime

Chris Morejohn said:


> Mike,
> I won’t be building the Boron now. Have had too many interruptions this winter.
> Both designs will be good rough water skiffs. The Boron is being built by a few guys now. Will have it being built in aluminum by 3 different builders too.
> Once done with this build thread I will be moving out west and pretty much just concentrating on my design clients, my art and avoiding social media as my end game plan in life.


And working on your book.

And signing a deal with NetFlix for a documentary of all your adventures.


----------



## kamy329

Chris Morejohn said:


> Mike,
> I won’t be building the Boron now. Have had too many interruptions this winter.
> Both designs will be good rough water skiffs. The Boron is being built by a few guys now. Will have it being built in aluminum by 3 different builders too.
> Once done with this build thread I will be moving out west and pretty much just concentrating on my design clients, my art and avoiding social media as my end game plan in life.


I hope that everyone that views your work on this site realize what an incredible gift you have given us all by sharing your work and advice on this and many other builds. I appreciate the message of love for Rachel I have seen you add to your builds. I hope you write your book and share when and where we came buy a copy. Good luck with your move be sure to take time to enjoy your life.


----------



## Mike Haydon

Chris, I thank you for all you are sharing with us and giving some of us the little nudge to try this for ourselves. You truly are a pirate and have a wonderful partner in life. I wish you the best and safe travels. Looking forward to the finishing of this build.


----------



## GaG8tor

I thank you too. You are a great person for freely sharing your knowledge and life experiences. I really enjoyed meeting and talking with you at the show in Charleston. I wish I would’ve spent more time with you guys up there. You have truly inspired a lot of people and have lived a life that others only dream of. I wish you and Rachael all the best.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

kamy329 said:


> I hope that everyone that views your work on this site realize what an incredible gift you have given us all by sharing your work and advice on this and many other builds. I appreciate the message of love for Rachel I have seen you add to your builds. I hope you write your book and share when and where we came buy a copy. Good luck with your move be sure to take time to enjoy your life.


Rachel and have been married for 31 years now. She has been my support for all our adventures and my projects out and about.
Our move to BC has been in the making for years. She is canadian and BC is where we have always wanted to end up in.
We will expand on our land and look forward to our new adventure out there.
The flats boat world and life will still be with me out there in my design and build clients but I look forward to the free air conditioning and no more glass work.
Thanks for your thoughts.
We have a stream running through one side of our place and once a year if lucky snow. It’s colder here in NC thn out there most of the time, but no hot summers out there. Yea!


----------



## Chris Morejohn

I bond my floors with a 50/50 silica mix and glass bubbles with the resin. I just lay the floor down onto the putty. Let it cure and then radius in the edges.
I like to make patterns for most things I make.
Shown here is the fuel tank top with core on top so it will be very stiff and strong enough to support trolling motor batteries on top if needed.
I am laying it up using epoxy resin. I make my fuel tanks all out of 1-1/2 oz. Matt. Comprising of 3 layers all lapped.
Epoxy resin and Matt works best on horizontal surfaces. It works best when it’s warm. I was heating up my epoxy to get it to work well enough.
The picture with the heat gun is one way to heat up a section.

I will write in detail all my build info of this build on my blog once I get time after this build. I will finish my book this summer. 
Thanks for the kind words.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Did a few hours work today. 
Shown is the stern with draft increments in inches starting at 5”.
The vee shown is 12 degrees like some other top end skiffs.
In order to draft at 7” or less the 12 degree bottoms would have their chines out of the water even when empty.
The Beryllium design like many of my other designs goes on the principle of the mid section of the skiff takes the chop not the stern, so why have so much vee in the stern.
The Beryllium skiff has 5 degrees of vee in its stern with an increasing variable vee going forward with the most vee of any shallow draft skiff starting at station #5. The Beryllium skiff has the same vee as the Marquesa skiff design at station #5 onward but will draw less water.
My goal with this design is fully loaded less people she will draft 5-1/2”.

Fuel tank top fitted. Will install fill, vent and then glass over the top and in place next.
The fiberglass section shown with the tape measure is 3 layers of 1-1/2 oz Matt laid up with epoxy resin. This is the fuel tanks inner skin except double at the keel and the aft bulkhead.


----------



## Fritz

You are calculating draft at the transom, is that for sure the lowest point?

I mean it sounds like a dumb question, but could the front of the skiff draft more then the very aft end?


----------



## Mc_Fly

Man o man, this is awesome!


----------



## Pole Position

Let me go ahead and be the dumbass that asks....what are the advantages of the fiberglass gas tank vs an aluminum one? It seems the weight savings would be minimal w/ chances of failure being greater ( ?? )


----------



## Mike Haydon

Looking at the draft lines it looks like it is going to be very stable. I definitely understand the thought of what takes the chop. It obviously isn't the aft section that stay in touch with the water.


----------



## jasonrl23

Chris Morejohn said:


> Floor installed. Tomorrow finish glassing in and then build fuel tank.
> View attachment 121382
> View attachment 121396
> View attachment 121412
> View attachment 121424
> View attachment 121428
> View attachment 121438
> View attachment 121442
> View attachment 121444
> View attachment 121446


With that hatch style are you relying on the bilge to drain any water that escapes past the hatch?


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Fritz said:


> You are calculating draft at the transom, is that for sure the lowest point?
> 
> I mean it sounds like a dumb question, but could the front of the skiff draft more then the very aft end?


Fritz,
All flats skiffs have a straight long keel starting at the Bows slope into the keel. In order to pole in shallow water you have to keep your keel level with the surface. So if wanting to pole your cf skiff across a 4-5” hard bottom you will need to have your keel leveled out parallel to the surface of the water.
Deep vee skiffs can gain an 1” of less draft by tilting way over.
If your bow is down you will ground out aft of the bow a bit. If your stern is dragging move forward to try and level the keel.
If you own a 12 degree bottom design then build and keep her light 
To get her draft down to 8-9”. And keep her level when poling.

I am building a custom skiff so I can choose what ever I want to do. I choose to build an epoxy fuel tank to never have to worry about an aluminum one going bad. Polyethylene tanks last for sure but can give of gas fume smells.
The built in tank gives way more space up forward. 
I don’t suggest everyone build one only those that have good glass skills and want one.
I have never had one fail over 38 years and quite a few built.

the cockpit floor hatch drains Into the bilge. The bilge is watertight. In order for water to get into the aft locker the bilge will have to fill up into the cockpit and then into the console to get into the aft locker.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Worked on fairing some and the fuel tank today


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Fuel tank lid in place. Will glass the top in the morning.
Sanding the flats first. Then I radius in the corners.

Thinking of you all that are being affected by the virus work wise.


----------



## Mike Haydon

@Chris Morejohn, I thought the shape of your core for the tank was to accommodate the fuel fill, vent, and such. Your pics dont show you puting it together so my question is do you use a fuel safe tubing for the pick up or something?


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Some fairing, filleting and radius work going on. I use squeegees and putty knife with round corners to make my radiuses.
I fair all the flat areas and don’t worry about the inner seams. The radius putty fills is all in.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

The console gets glassed in place and radiused to the floor to be smooth and watertight.
Will be ready for primer by Sunday.


----------



## GaG8tor

Awesome work. Gonna have to create an archive of your posts and pictures and put it all on a separate device to be easy to find and follow when I start building


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Fuel tank top going in using epoxy resin. I like to wet out my strips on cardboard as shown as it’s quick and no drops.
I will install the fuel pickup last. Will show how I do it in a few days.




























View attachment 123246














View attachment 123252


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Starting on the deck build. Because of the virus event we are laying low and I hope with no visitors to have the deck on and painting finish coats by the end of the month. Rachel and I are used to being off grid and alone for long periods of time at sea. My last passage I was singlehanding for 31 days. So I am hoping to stay away from getting sick. Time will tell.
You can see the hatch Chanel details and how I transfer corners. You MUST make sure you flip your pattern over to trace.











































View attachment 123266


----------



## Guest

Lookin’ good! Are you going to crown this deck? Sorry if I missed it somewhere.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Been busy doing other things this week, like getting setup for being away from everyone till this skiff project is finished in April.
Rachel and I have been through 11 hurricanes in many places. Surviving all these without insurance, healthcare, damage meant lots of planning In advance. For us two now this means just basically staying away from others now. We are in a good spot we feel with good friends about here in Mt Olive NC.
We wish everyone else the best in the ways you all will have to be dealing with the coming weeks and months.

Here’s some photos of the shop and some progress on the deck plug. Will be waxing it tomorrow and starting the glass work on Monday.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

The last of the pictures from today.
I thought I had the virus yesterday because I was sweating so much. Then I realized that it was 81 degrees out and spring has sprung up here. I have not sweated since November.
I was born March 20th 1958 and this is the first spring I have encountered where I get to see all the dead looking trees come to life. It’s been a treat here.


----------



## Fishshoot

Wow that is a beautiful spring! Our flowers are just starting to break through the soil and pastures are starting to green up, nothing that spectacular yet though. I enjoy following this build and listening to your insights. Best of luck and preparedness in these stressful times


----------



## Mike Haydon

Was in Tennessee for a short vacation last weekend. Got back to fl this Thursday. No spring flowers there yet but it was crazy driving an hour south and feeling the different temps all the way home. Was sweating before the line. Lol. Trying to gather materials now for a build. Figure while I'm stuck home I might as well accomplish something. Thanks for everything Chris!


----------



## lemaymiami

Noted in one of your pics the puffer (or a part of it)... has that build come to a halt for now?


----------



## Chris Morejohn

lemaymiami said:


> Noted in one of your pics the puffer (or a part of it)... has that build come to a halt for now?


Ah the Pufferfish is halfway done. Eric and his wife run a dental clinic and have 4 kids. Things have gotten a bit crazy now. So it’s on hold till I finish the Beryllium skiff. If I can’t drive across the canadian border to get to my home in Canada when I finish the Beryllium then I will finish the Pufferfish till this event passes.

today cut the core and all the materials to glass the top skin with on the deck. I layup at one time and bond the core onto the wet matt.
my wife’s birthday is tomorrow so I bought her some Pickle beer from the only bar/ brewery in town. It’s a Mt. Olive pickles town here so will let you all know if it pickleliscious or not.
Stay safe,
Oh, my typical anti social lunch being alone in the shop.


----------



## bryson

Nice to see it coming together! Very curious to see the process of putting the core onto the cloth/mat without getting any air bubbles. That's the part that has me the most concerned with building from a mold.


----------



## Guest

bryson said:


> Nice to see it coming together! Very curious to see the process of putting the core onto the cloth/mat without getting any air bubbles. That's the part that has me the most concerned with building from a mold.


Lots of weight evenly distributed. A few relief holes can help in a large piece.


----------



## DuckNut

Boatbrains said:


> Lots of weight evenly distributed. A few relief holes can help in a large piece.


Yes. It is shown in post 202 & 207


----------



## Jred

What is the best way to get the clay off of the deck after it’s popped off the mold? MEK? 
Would using 100% silicone work the same way and be easier to clean up?


----------



## Guest

Jred said:


> What is the best way to get the clay off of the deck after it’s popped off the mold? MEK?
> Would using 100% silicone work the same way and be easier to clean up?


I use a small electric power washer, the comet and a scotch bright. Still a pita at times if you didn’t get the wax on it good. I’m gonna bite the bullet next round and use some wax fillets to try. I, like Chris have used clay forever and really just want to try the wax fillets out!


----------



## texasag07

Aft


Jred said:


> What is the best way to get the clay off of the deck after it’s popped off the mold? MEK?
> Would using 100% silicone work the same way and be easier to clean up?


After seeing how even the radius come out on the deck, not even mentioning how easy to apply and remove the wax fillets are I can’t see going with clay. We used them on josh’s 17.5t build on here.


----------



## Open Fly -The Later Years

Sorry to be dense but I am lost. Why are filleting with clay or wax. If someone
has time, please explain.
Thanks
Dave Jackson


----------



## Rick hambric

bigmamoo said:


> Sorry to be dense but I am lost. Why are filleting with clay or wax. If someone
> has time, please explain.
> Thanks
> Dave Jackson


The edges of the deck. You make a concave radius with wax or clay in the mold.


----------



## Open Fly -The Later Years

Ok so get it, the outside radishes. 
Thank you 
Dave Jackson


----------



## DuckNut

bigmamoo said:


> Ok so get it, the outside radishes.
> Thank you
> Dave Jackson


Not exactly.

The radishes grow outside in the garden. The outside radiuses go on the molds.

 I had to do it, just had to.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

The wax radius fillets work real well. You still will need some clay to make the hatch corners and such work. To me getting the clay or wax off is easy. Just use the edge of a stir stick to scrap off. You then will have to sand the whole deck to get the wax sheen off and as you do this you just sand the radiuses off. 
Using silicone could work on places like the sheer edge but you would have to be really good with your finger getting it right. 
Shown here today is the primer rolled on with 3 coats. 
The lockers have one coat of GELCOAT. Now I can see all the bumps and holes. Fill and fair next.
Nursing home just down the road a few blocks has its first Covid case here in small town Mt Olive.
Will be warm enough for the next few days to glass the deck.
Stay safe


----------



## texasag07

Chris it looks like for the deck you have drilled or poked holes in the core, what’s the purpose of this?


----------



## Guest

texasag07 said:


> Chris it looks like for the deck you have drilled or poked holes in the core, what’s the purpose of this?


Relief holes to help avoid trapped air between the core and skin. Also aids in allowing resin to flow if the skin is a little wet which in turns helps to eliminate and excess resin.


----------



## Copahee Hound

And these holes go all the way through the core? Or just halfway?


----------



## Guest

Copahee Hound said:


> And these holes go all the way through the core? Or just halfway?


All the way


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Laying down core yesterday. You can see how the resin beads up from the wax on the plug. This is a good sign that it will part later.
Truth is the only parts that need to pull out easily are the main hatch Chanel parts. All the rest just peel away.
You must take pains to hard roll out the air bubbles. Check all your radiuses for air bubbles. Do this layer real well and the rest is easy.
You can see the air in the matt and where it’s been rolled out. A dark bottom layer makes this easy to see. When the deck is removed because this is all clear resin we will be able to see if there was any voids. More on this later. I am laying up with boatyard polyester resin at $25.00 a gal. Using epoxy resin you will have a different cloth skin layup. I will explain all that on my blog later.
When laying down the core onto the 2 layers of 1-1/2 oz wet matt roll liberally a wet coat of resin onto the bottom side of the core sheet. When placing it in position make sure it lines up to where it’s supposed to lay down. I mark every adjoining edge before hand and use a Cheat block to make sure it’s set in place for the outer sheer properly. You only need to push down lightly with just enough pressure to get both sides, the cores wet bottom and the wet matt to meet. Don’t not try to squeeze it in place. Don’t use heavy weights to squeeze it down. When the two wet sides meet that is what you need. Too much pressure it’s like squeezing out a jelly sandwich. If you hard rolled out your matt well you will not have any air bubbles at all. The air between the core and the deck skin will escape up through the predrilled Holes in the core. If you see resin coming out through them that is good. 

Now this is the way I have done it since I first learned in 1976. 

Tonight I will show how I prep the deck for its underside skin coat.
Stay safe, the virus is in my town now.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Shaping the core. Getting it ready for glass. The first 2 photos show what’s called pre release from the plug. It’s just the skin pulling from the waxed plug. In a mold this should not happen because you buff the wax out. On a one off deck on raw ply having wax is good. You are going to fair the deck so it’s no big deal. It’s not air in the laminate.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Now at today’s progress. Almost done glassing the deck. Tomorrow will finish with hatch drains. Will let the deck cure then on Tuesday take all the forms off and flip over and see how it looks. 
My back is not what it once thought it was. At 62 I feel after a bout of glassing bending over the same way I did at 23 but bit of wine in the evening makes it all go away.
Rachel and I have been self isolating for weeks now. For us it’s the best way to deal with what’s coming. Lucky for us Eric and his family that own the building where I am building this skiff understand what’s up and we make sure not to get near each other.
If they need to come into the shop they let me know. Eric no longer goes into my area of their building. It’s our new reality. 
i wish you all the best.


----------



## bryson

Looking great Chris! Do you have a rule of thumb as to the spacing between 2 pieces of core that are butted up to each other? Looks like you left a small gap and then filled with putty afterwards.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

bryson said:


> Looking great Chris! Do you have a rule of thumb as to the spacing between 2 pieces of core that are butted up to each other? Looks like you left a small gap and then filled with putty afterwards.


That’s called a sloppy job..... but putty and GELCOAT can make a Devil look like a saint.


----------



## bryson

Chris Morejohn said:


> That’s called a sloppy job..... but putty and GELCOAT can make a Devil look like a saint.


Ha! I'd imagine it's helpful to have a small gap anyway though, to prevent any dry areas between two layers of foam. Deck is looking really nice, and perfect timing too for me to learn from.


----------



## Open Fly -The Later Years

bigmamoo said:


> Ok so get it, the outside radishes.
> Thank you
> Dave Jackson


Damn spell check !


----------



## Mike Haydon

@Chris Morejohn, it is looking incredible and I love the console. I hope he keeps it very simple and not to cluttered. 

Why did you prime the top of the fuel tank?
Are you still going to show us how you rig the tank for the fuel pickup? 
Thanks for showing us all this and stay safe!


----------



## kamy329

Mike Haydon said:


> @Chris Morejohn, it is looking incredible and I love the console. I hope he keeps it very simple and not to cluttered.
> 
> Why did you prime the top of the fuel tank?
> Are you still going to show us how you rig the tank for the fuel pickup?
> Thanks for showing us all this and stay safe!


my guess is that the tank was primed because it was made with epoxy resin instead of poly and to give it more protection from water intrusion


----------



## Chris Morejohn

kamy329 said:


> my guess is that the tank was primed because it was made with epoxy resin instead of poly and to give it more protection from water intrusion


Bingo


----------



## Mike Haydon

I thought the epoxy was stronger against water than polyester and vynlester. Just for protection or an adhesion issue from the gel coat or paint you will use?


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Deck is out and I will be sanding and prepping for attaching, bonding to the hull over the next few days. Glad to be alone in a nice quiet shop only a block away from a nice quiet home, In a pretty quiet town in NC.


----------



## bryson

Great job flipping without a bunch of people to help! Are you going to have to put a cap of some sort on the nose to make the corner with the rub rail? I love the look of a more pointed nose but don't know how to make the transition.


----------



## Guest

Love them hinges!


----------



## Mike Haydon

It all looks great! The hinges are very cool and clean looking. Cant wait to see it with the hatch attached to see how it looks finished! Chris you make it look so simple my friend. Must be used to working alone.


----------



## SkiffaDeeDooDah

Chris Morejohn said:


> Deck is out and I will be sanding and prepping for attaching, bonding to the hull over the next few days. Glad to be alone in a nice quiet shop only a block away from a nice quiet home, In a pretty quiet town in NC.


I am learning so much here, and really enjoying this thread. It's a brief excursion from the daily stress and endless news cycle we are dealing with right now. The project looks great Chris! Hoping you and Rachel stay healthy and safe, and please - keep teaching us!


----------



## Sublime

Thanks for the detailed pictures on the cap. It has clarified a lot for me.


----------



## SeaDrifter

First and foremost, thank you so much for taking us along on this build! They say a picture is worth 1,000 words and I do believe this is your best novel to date! It has been both an honor and privilege to tag along CM...


Michael


----------



## omegadef

Chris, is that a 1x4 ripped in half for the edge of the deck mold?


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Made a hatch mock up so you all can see it work. The deal with the pivot point in a different spot than the usual pivot point you can use hatch flanges that reach totally to the bottom of the hatch gutter.
In this case they will be 3” deep or about twice what any other skiff ever has or had. The only fastening is below and can be totally water proff. So with this setup no leaks ever. And extremely easy to remove the hatch. The last skiff I worked on in the keys it’s aft Baitwell hatch took 45 minutes to remove. 
Just hang in there and you all will see how easy it is to make the pivot points in Glass, or metal. This hatch is 2’x4’ so it’s bigger than any flats skiff hatch that I have come across. there will be a 14” wide seat cushion in front of this locker.


----------



## Guest

Chris Morejohn said:


> Made a hatch mock up so you all can see it work. The deal with the pivot point in a different spot than the usual pivot point you can use hatch flanges that reach totally to the bottom of the hatch gutter.
> In this case they will be 3” deep or about twice what any other skiff ever has or had. The only fastening is below and can be totally water proff. So with this setup no leaks ever. And extremely easy to remove the hatch. The last skiff I worked on in the keys it’s aft Baitwell hatch took 45 minutes to remove.
> Just hang in there and you all will see how easy it is to make the pivot points in Glass, or metal. This hatch is 2’x4’ so it’s bigger than any flats skiff hatch that I have come across. there will be a 14” wide seat cushion in front of this locker.
> View attachment 126166
> View attachment 126170
> View attachment 126172
> View attachment 126174
> View attachment 126176
> View attachment 126178
> View attachment 126180
> View attachment 126182
> View attachment 126184
> View attachment 126186


I don’t know Chris... they might leak!


----------



## Chris Morejohn

To answer a couple questions,
I used regular 2x4s for the hatch Chanel’s and the rest just cheap 1x6 spruce ripped to suit the dimensions needed.
I don’t like rubber gaskets to go under the hatches because of the spongy feel of them. A well fitted hatch won’t squeak underfoot if built and fitted right. That’s why I molded the reverse hatch flange for these big hatches. Very strong this way.
The bow is typical. Bryson you just say the white of the clay still stuck to the bow making it look sharper.
Glad you all are enjoying the process. It’s been real nice having shop with lots of extra space this go round. I have always been building in Really cramped quarters. Kinda spoiled here.
Rachel and I plan to just. Avoid all contact with people till june or so. One this skiff is finished if we can drive to our place in BC we will take off. If not I will finish the Pufferfish and finish my book.
You can see my sanding tools. I us the middle of my used big sanding pads on this very slow running disc sander. Took 3 hours to sand - fairing the deck. Tomorrow I will fill holes and such and then final fair. In a day or so I will fit it to the hull. Then bond it. I have to finish sanding the primer and paint cockpit. 
Stuff, stuff, stuff


----------



## DuckNut

For all you guys who can't use a sander like Chris and get the radiuses looking beautiful - fret not. Get your self an edging router bit for granite. They are covered with diamonds and will give you that perfect edge.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Yesterday’s sanding the wax off the deck skin, filling holes, and sanding it all fair. A couple of my sanding blocks, tricks to get in tight places.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Rolled on 2-3 coats of Awlgrip 545 primer this morning. 2 layers overall and the 3rd layer on all the radiuses in the cockpit and sheer. The nice thing about painting a deck like this by hand is you only have the channels and the radiuses to make look good. The non skid covers all but the challenge when doing the nonskid by hand is keeping a wet edge when jump from one side of the deck to the other rolling out paint and sprinkling on the grit. I did all the Hells Bay skiff plugs this way.
Deck going on in a day or so. Then will build hatches and then it’s flipping the hull to finish the hull. 
The deck edge detail at the stern shows the decks upper skin thickness and the caps sheer strength edge. The flat area is where the deck will bond to the hulls rolled edge. 
Our rescue dog Rugy- Arugula with something to chew on this morning.
Stay safe


----------



## Outearly

This is the coolest thread to follow.

In particular, with the deck plug, i’m still puzzling over how you are able to imagine the end result and then build the upside down and backward version as the plug.

Cute pup, too-

All the best with your plans for the future


----------



## lemaymiami

That pup is just the right size for a boat dog...


----------



## Chris Morejohn

The drain tubes are in place. I am using 1-1/2” pvc pipe. I feel it really helps in draining a hatch Channel if the drains are on each aft corner. When I see a deck with those drain channels that lead right out of the middle of the hatch I cringe. What happens when the skiff tilts over an 1”? The rain water fill up the gutter an in it goes into the locker.
The after locker hatch has 3 big drains. I will lay the deck in place and cut the bulkhead to fit the 2 forward drains and the middle aft drain. The other two aft drains I will just drill out a hole in the stern and use the bigger pvc pipe as a sleeve to connect. Then just fillet around it and the others. You will see.
This stuffs cool to do because it’s a custom skiff so you can really o nice logical stuff.
The other cool thing about building like this is everything can be reached after the boat is built. Try and get to those plastic nylon through hulls on those skiffs that are built with everything rigged before the deck goes on and never to be seen again till they start sinking.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

This is how I layup a core panel. With a 1-1/2 oz Matt and a layer of 10 oz cloth it takes 1 gallon of resin per side using polyester resin. I do it in sections as I go along to keep control of the process. When it’s hot it will cure real quick. Don’t get too far ahead or you will get caught.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Scribing in the bulkheads height To get cut off to fit the deck.
I use a straight edge and the compass as shown.
Deck is gelcoated now so will see how it fits the hull tomorrow.


----------



## Tigweld

Chris, 1 1/2 sch40 pipe? Cool


----------



## JC Designs

Lookin’ good! Now how about those latches?


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Rachel helped me lay the deck on the skiff today. It’s almost 19’ long so a bit awkward but still not heavy. My guess is it weighs around 135 lbs. 
it’s nice when the shoe fits.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

#flatsskiffbucketchallenge 
I can stow 17 five gallon buckets in the locker space easily on this Beryllium build. I will now say that this flats skiff is the first ever flats skiff with an aft cabin.
I will be building custom made hatches like I have been doing since the 80s. Will show the process when done with them in a couple days.
I can still lift either the bow or stern of this skiff up with the deck on her. Two young guys like Eric for sure could lift her around.


----------



## KWGator

Chris,
Will you be sharing some rough dimensions of the deck and console placement or adding them to the plans in the future? It would be super helpful for someone to use your deck layout dimensions as a starting point and modify if they desire for their own custom skiff.

Thanks for sharing everything. It has been fascinating and very educational. Can't wait to buy your book in the future.


----------



## CKEAT

Being able to fit buckets in hatches for gear so it is easier to remove on every trip and store boat dry and clean is invaluable, including hatches floors and walls. 

That is sweet set up on the hatch storage. Jealous!


----------



## Mike Haydon

Looking incredible!!! Gonna be one lucky guy working out of this Cadillac!!!


----------



## GaG8tor

Amazing. Thank you for all you do and so freely sharing your knowledge. Hope you all stay safe up there.


----------



## Hunter_Allen

So cool to see come alive. How long until Hayyaari gets production over here? This is seeming like the boat for me. Can't wait to lay eyes on this one when it gets down to HHI.


----------



## Mc_Fly

Chris, how did you take account for the glass thickness of the deck flange versus the hull flange when you scribed the template for the deck plug? I’m sure you want a tight fit but seems like a lot of room for error if you don’t know what you are doing like us novices.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Mc_Fly said:


> Chris, how did you take account for the glass thickness of the deck flange versus the hull flange when you scribed the template for the deck plug? I’m sure you want a tight fit but seems like a lot of room for error if you don’t know what you are doing like us novices.





Hunter_Allen said:


> So cool to see come alive. How long until Hayyaari gets production over here? This is seeming like the boat for me. Can't wait to lay eyes on this one when it gets down to HHI.





KWGator said:


> Chris,
> Will you be sharing some rough dimensions of the deck and console placement or adding them to the plans in the future? It would be super helpful for someone to use your deck layout dimensions as a starting point and modify if they desire for their own custom skiff.
> 
> Thanks for sharing everything. It has been fascinating and very educational. Can't wait to buy your book in the future.


doing lots of new drawings today and tomorrow to show how to build decks, deck build options, how to raise the transoms and so many other things that are getting asked.
What I am trying to do between building this skiff and recording its build in photos is to write up a complete build sequence with all related info to go along with it. It takes time as I am just one old fart working alone at this. I have my partner Nathan Shawl that takes my drawings and ads his gift of computer rendering to add to our plans catalog but it takes time to do it right.
In today’s world of youtube, google and instant answers to today’s questions it gets pretty overwhelming at times with the amount of email questions I get daily.
I am a bit anal in that I feel obligated to answer all these emails. When I ran Hells Bay Boatworks I answered between 70-90 phone calls a day or by the next morning. I had a secretary with a call log and caller ID to make sure I got to every call. Some calls were from unhappy people. This is why I no longer own a phone. With emails I can wait to answer if wanting to. But I do answer 99.9% of all emails.
To me it would help everyone to pick up a good boatbuilding book and teach yourselves all the basic lingo of what’s needed to understand what’s coming. I have posted two books that can get you into what’s up. Unfortunately there are no books on doing what we are doing here, hence my build photos and my upcoming blog and book about the process doing it my way and the way others do it.
Most all of the questions I get have already been answered online many times. It just takes reading and re reading. 
the deck drawing of basically what I have built here is already posted. I showed how I check my sheer sheer flange with a small block in a past post.
When I finish this build this month I will then sit down with all my photos and write up a build blog in great detail of each sequence for this skiff which should cover a lot of questions. I will also add in all my detail drawings for reference for other options.
Seth Sawyer, Fritz, and others not seen on MS have built their own versions of decks with fantastic results. There are many ways to go about it.
What I have done is just one way.
I do realize that with so many different builds, other skiff brands and so much technology in today’s skiff market it can be very overwhelming at times.
I hope to put all the answers in one book and my blog for everyone to be able to have it one place to then at your leisure decide on which way to build your own personal skiff.
As soon as I finish this build I will be off to BC to start my next life’s adventure out there. This will be for sure my last flats skiff build on my own but I will finish my book, my blog posts and I will keep designing new skiffs, keep up with my home builders and well ...post pictures of life out in BC on the water and on our new place.

the photos here show how I am starting to build very tight fitting custom made hatches for this build. 
I like making patterns when I build. Everything is saved from my build as Eric the gentleman that owns the shop I am using will build a wood strip plank Beryllium skiff from my jigs and use my patterns next year for his build. There are others that will then use it all again for their builds. 
also shown is another way to do my hatch hinge design.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Here and on the last post you can see that the core panel I laid up is true and flat.
These photos show how I am angling in the hatch flanges and how I start the hatch build.
I have used this method since the early 80s with no failures to date.
I will have the hatches finished this week and then all will become clear as to my method.

Thank you all for following this post. Remember, you all are what drive this site, this market, and I am forever thankful to those of you that trust me and my designs enough to put your hard earned cash and free time into these builds.
It’s an honor to play a small part of this great sport.
Stay safe


----------



## JC Designs

Chris Morejohn said:


> Here and on the last post you can see that the core panel I laid up is true and flat.
> These photos show how I am angling in the hatch flanges and how I start the hatch build.
> I have used this method since the early 80s with no failures to date.
> I will have the hatches finished this week and then all will become clear as to my method.
> 
> Thank you all for following this post. Remember, you all are what drive this site, this market, and I am forever thankful to those of you that trust me and my designs enough to put your hard earned cash and free time into these builds.
> It’s an honor to play a small part of this great sport.
> Stay safe
> View attachment 128002
> View attachment 128004
> View attachment 128006
> View attachment 128008
> View attachment 128010
> View attachment 128012
> View attachment 128014
> View attachment 128016


Chris, I know we don’t always see eye to eye on everything related to a build but again I say... there is such a thing as being too humble. You are way more than a small part in this sport/industry my friend! You revolutionized the “Technical poling skiff” and how they are built. Every builder/designer today uses something from your past designs/builds in their designs including myself. You once gave me some crap  about it being a process “ I love the process” and this I already knew. I enjoy learning from you and your experience. As I go forward in my ventures, I want you to know that it is you and your work that have inspired me sir! The great ones think outside the box, you sir are miles from the box!


----------



## Taylor Cullen

Interested to see how the outside radius is done on the hatches. Planning to do my deck with the method you have used on this build, but I am a little intimidated. Lots of reading to do yet! Thanks Chris for posting everything. Cant tell you how many times I have been staring at my build trying to think through the steps in my head. Your posts make things much easier.


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## Chris Morejohn

Thanks James and all of you following.
Here is today’s work on the hatches. Since we last talked I have been busy with a couple new design commissions and drawing up plans sheets to go along with the Boron skiff builds. At present there are 3 aluminum Boron builders starting 2 core ones and a builder in Canada that’s going to build in plywood.
You can see with the photos how the hatches come together.
Oh yea, my flats skiff bucket challenge is on.


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## Chris Morejohn

Sorry for the double photos, touch the wrong thing and it’s a pain to try to erase.
I lay on 2 layers of 10 oz cloth on top of the hatch having it’s already glassed cored upper side having only 1 layer of 10 oz cloth there.
Now the 2 final layers give it its skin thickness and these two layers bond to the hatches upper flange edge as seen.
The radius fillet on the underside is tremendously strong but I still hard roll 1 layer of 1-1/2 oz Matt to make sure it’s never moving. All the ones I’ve done haven’t so far. Since 1984.
All the corners get glassed over. Because I can angle in my hatch flanges the hatch edge can be quite close to the decks radius. I won’t use those stupid hatch latches that are all the rage now. Just stick your






































































finger tip in the corner. This hatch will have 2 twenty lb. gas hatch lifts so even though this hatch is very light it will be a breeze to open. The secrete hatch lock will be ready to show when the hatch in installed. Tomorrow I will install the hinges and then we can all see the hatches in motion.


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## Chris Morejohn

Ok, now you can see the hatch before I install the hatch pivot hinge and then fair and prime them. These hatch flanges reach all the way down into the hatch gutters and are stirring on the bottom of them. This means the entire hatch is being supported all the way around.at present I can still add a nice rubber gasket to make a perfect seal. Should be the driest locker of my design career.
See you all later...


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## fjmaverick

Is there an optional bed for the aft state room?


----------



## JC Designs

Very cool and simple!


----------



## Copahee Hound

How does the hatch stay closed at highway speeds without a latch? Blowing my mind right now


----------



## 17376

He said he would show the latch lock tomorrow.


----------



## BassFlats

The Porto-potty looks a little cramped.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Well here is my very basic but simple hatch locking set up. You will all see it’s just a commonsense barrel bolt. I am using basic pvc as it will never corrode, but it would be so easy to reproduce with aluminum or stainless steel tubing with a solid fiberglass bolt.
So what you see here is it above the deck so you can see how it works.
The squiggly line represents the cored bulkhead below. So after the deck is secured in place you use a hole saw and drill out the hole to be able to slide the pvc pipe aft to the hatch gutter. Mark it there then drill out the gutter. Now just slide the pipe just into the gutter till flush on the inside. 
inside the locker you now just radius a fillet around both ends on the gutter and the bulkhead. Now it’s water tight. Drill a hole in the hatch flange and fit a cap inside it with putty to fit the poicky end of the barrel bolt so it’s watertight on that end. 
Once done it’s easy to to just reach under the deck and twist in to secure. You can have one on each side of the hatch but I would prefer just one in the middle. If no one reads this then no one will ever figure out how to open this skiffs hatch.


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## Chris Morejohn

Making the angled hatch pivot flanges. I just glue them in with resin and 100% silica. Will never move. I drill holes in the flange on the inside to act as keys when filled with putty. I used basalt cloth and Matt.


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## JC Designs

Very cool!


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## Chris Morejohn

Hatches and lockers.
You can see with this build I have taken the flats skiff design idea to new and different directions.
The only fastenings on deck will be the push pole holders, tower bolts, and bow tower bolt. So 6 screws, 6 bolts and 1 flush socket. Then the fastenings for the rubrail and the consoles hinges.
This skiff has the deepest hatch gutters, hatch flanges, hatch drains with no hoses that will drain no matter how far over the skiff tilts, the most storage ever by far, his and hers cabins for Glamping or for your significant other to be able to just hang out in out of the way, a hatch and lock system that is leak and fool prof. You can get to every corner of this simple build for maintenance. 
There is nothing like building your own ideas into your personal skiff. Just look at each of the builds going on on this site, everyone’s different. It’s great.


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## sidelock

Haven't heard from Chris for a while, hope all is well.


----------



## Mike Haydon

He has been working on plans and half hulls from what his blog show .


----------



## Chris Morejohn

sidelock said:


> Haven't heard from Chris for a while, hope all is well.


Thanks for the concern. Well I do have another life other than building and getting dusty, that’s my design work. It’s not a huge living but it’s been keeping me busy. Lots of home builds going on all over the place and new design commissions to complete.
The Beryllium skiffs deck is going to be bonded in place in a few days and then it’s sanding the primer, finish coat painting her up and then rigging. Will be done mid May and then Rachel and I are off to drive across the states to where our sailboat is in Washington state. Will launch her there and sail about the San Juan islands till I can cross the boarder into Canada where my Wife will be waiting at our new home base. She’s Canadian so she can get across.
Things might change by then for me and our sailboat so we will see. Anyway it’s still a bit cold out there.
Today finds me deciding that this will be my last couple of photo posts here as this skiff is pretty much finished. 
I won’t be on here anymore too. My time in this world is drawing to an end. I will continue to sell my designs and such but I won’t follow what’s going on on this site anymore.
Any of you all that want to continue to see my builds, designs and such just follow me on Instagram and on my 2 blogs [email protected] and chrismorejohn.blogspot.com
I will be writing way more on these sites and I promise none of these stinking pop up ads there.
Become a follower and then you will know when I post something.
At present Nathan and I have finished all the plans for the new Aluminum Boron with several builds starting. 
the Turbot Plans are finished with several already started.
A few Slippery Dick skiffs are underway too along with all my other designs. All this stuff is on the above sites.

I want to thank Travis Smith for being the build guy here that got the CONCHFISH builds going on here. I also want to thank the others that are posting their current builds and those that finished, like Travis, Fritz and Seth Sawyer. Lots of other launches that are not here can be seen on my sites though.
And last to thank who ever owns this site for having me on here in my grumpyish and such times.
Thanks, stay safe
Oh yea here are a few things I'am working on between finishing the Beryllium.
A 12’3” dinghy, a Rough water Glades type skiff and a skiff design for a client.
I call this old school 5 axis CMC routing. The mirror trick is really old School.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Here’s the hatch being faired and prepped

















































for primer.


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## Chris Morejohn

Last post,
She will have a Whisper Grey deck and a light Grey hull.
Adios....


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## JC Designs

Oh, C’mon @Chris Morejohn, we were all just about to climax brother! We need the money shot for it to count!


----------



## KWGator

I thought we would see her float and get a final weight? Thanks for letting us follow along the journey.


----------



## bryson

@Chris Morejohn really appreciate the time and wisdom you've shared with us. Hope Eric or Rob will follow up with since completed pics and info! She's looking great.


----------



## lemaymiami

Thanks for all you've done Chris... and it makes me wonder - all those years ago where I'd be today if I'd been lucky enough to hook up with a skilled small craft builder and stuck with it...

Maybe next lifetime....


----------



## Pole Position

Chris...to echo what others have said, thanks for being so generous w/ your time and sharing your knowledge. Safe travels...


----------



## sidelock

Chris your unselfishness and generosity for sharing your knowledge and time should be an example for everyone to follow if we want to live in a better world ! There are flakes on this site that write volumes about nothing but their own opinion and wouldn't even share what color fly to use when asked. Kudos to you for your kindness and generosity and may you be blessed with good health and a serene and tranquil life in BC.


----------



## Net 30

CM: It was fun while it lasted!

Safe travels and wishes for peace & prosperity north of the border.


----------



## Myakka Red

Chris Morejohn said:


> Last post,
> She will have a Whisper Grey deck and a light Grey hull.
> Adios....
> View attachment 129878
> View attachment 129880
> View attachment 129882
> View attachment 129884
> View attachment 129886
> View attachment 129888


Time for a cool, cool change.
Best of luck to you two, eh!


----------



## Sethsawyer

Anyone wanting to build A foam core skiff needs to save this thread. Lots of little tricks that will make building a skiff more fun, and make it easier to get that production quality finish.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Hey everyone, I’am back like the virus.
Well as usual skiffs and life take time but I am posting here to show you all how she came out. Just finished the last coat of paint.
I hand rolled and tipped the skiff using AWLGRIP paint. I used foam rollers 4”x 1” and 2” wide foam brushes.
Nonskid is rolled on by hand too.
I will rig the skiff over the next few days and will then post pictures and videos of what she looks like in her element.
At present I have weighed every single piece of hardware that will go aboard. We will weigh her when final rigged. At present as you see here finished here Eric and I can lift her off the floor and move her around. She is 19’ long on deck. 18’9” on the hulls length. 6’6” deck beam.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Here she is getting painted up right. It was so cold I did not finish fairing her in the winter because I was using epoxy resin for the outside skin. Then the Covid comes along and I don’t want to be around people so I just rolled her over by myself. 
Just took a couple hours to build the cradle.


----------



## CKEAT

Man I love that huge rear hatch!


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Opps posted my trees cut down in BC.
Ok here are the finish painted photos. 
Will post the rigged pictures when done in a few days.
Glad you all have enjoyed this build.


----------



## KWGator

Exceptionally clean skiff. Love it.


----------



## bryson

Just gorgeous. Love that the deck is going to look almost exactly like that, even after rigging. Can't wait to see some pictures of her on the water. We'll have to petition the new owner to join microskiff!


----------



## DuckNut

The little berm around the splash well is one of those items that says "attention to details".

Most excellent work Chris.

Hope you find what you are looking for in BC and I hope you come back and not be a complete stranger.

Cheers Mr. Morejohn!


----------



## CKEAT

My goodness, work of art right there!


----------



## Rob_Alexander

bryson said:


> Just gorgeous. Love that the deck is going to look almost exactly like that, even after rigging. Can't wait to see some pictures of her on the water. We'll have to petition the new owner to join microskiff!


We will have to link up to fish her when the busy season slows down. I want to give your Conchfish a spin as well.


----------



## bryson

Rob_Alexander said:


> We will have to link up to fish her when the busy season slows down. I want to give your Conchfish a spin as well.


Absolutely man, looking forward to it.


----------



## VANMflyfishing

Can't wait to see this in the water. Thinking about starting this build in the 17.5 or 16 version this fall! Was sold on the conchfish, but the beryllium is gorgeous!!


----------



## FSUDrew99

@Chris Morejohn would you be interested in building and selling these down the road? If so what would your ideal price range be fully rigged w/ motor etc....?


----------



## Chris Morejohn

FSUDrew99 said:


> @Chris Morejohn would you be interested in building and selling these down the road? If so what would your ideal price range be fully rigged w/ motor etc....?


Hey thanks for the compliments James, Duck nut and others.
What I enjoy is guys like Duck Nut going over all the pictures and looking at details. The slight berm Duck mentions as a detail around my splash well is actually just lots of glass built up for super strength. Once the tower is installed you will never see this “detail”.
But thanks for thinking it was one.

As buying a similar skiff,

To buy a production version of this hull lookup Brian Floyd’s 10 Weight skiff at $44,500.00. Best deal around for an all infusion build built and rigged by brian. 
Or 
Hayaari marines dealer in Ft. Lauderdale as they will be importing their version of my Beryllium design sometime this summer. It will be very competitively priced I believe. 

I have nothing to do with these companies other than being the hulls designer and consultant at times.

I myself just received my first Social Security payment so I’am now officially and old fart senior citizen.
Once this skiff is floating in a few days I will be moving to BC and into my other life of just creating my art.
Here’s a few pictures of what I will continue doing in a couple months and from then on out....
No more skiff builds by me, only new designs.

my art not Instagram site.































Back to rigging now lunch is over


----------



## DuckNut

Chris Morejohn said:


> Hey thanks for the compliments James, Duck nut and others.
> What I enjoy is guys like Duck Nut going over all the pictures and looking at details. The slight berm Duck mentions as a detail around my splash well is actually just lots of glass built up for super strength. Once the tower is installed you will never see this “detail”.
> But thanks for thinking it was one.
> 
> As buying a similar skiff,
> 
> To buy a production version of this hull lookup Brian Floyd’s 10 Weight skiff at $44,500.00. Best deal around for an all infusion build built and rigged by brian.
> Or
> Hayaari marines dealer in Ft. Lauderdale as they will be importing their version of my Beryllium design sometime this summer. It will be very competitively priced I believe.
> 
> I have nothing to do with these companies other than being the hulls designer and consultant at times.
> 
> I myself just received my first Social Security payment so I’am now officially and old fart senior citizen.
> Once this skiff is floating in a few days I will be moving to BC and into my other life of just creating my art.
> Here’s a few pictures of what I will continue doing in a couple months and from then on out....
> No more skiff builds by me, only new designs.
> 
> my art not Instagram site.
> 
> View attachment 136736
> View attachment 136738
> View attachment 136740
> View attachment 136742
> 
> 
> Back to rigging now lunch is over


Before you head out for good can you give us where all of your designs can be found and the plans purchased. I have looked for them on your blog and see the description and the purchase plans but I do not find all of your plans in one condensed place - unless I am just missing it. 

Safe travels.


----------



## scott nathanson

Looks great .cant wait to see it float.


----------



## Scott

I’ve always loved BC. Good luck in your new life. If you ever come back to Islamorada I’ll save yo a seat at the bar at the Florida Keys Brewing Co!


----------



## yobata

DuckNut said:


> Before you head out for good can you give us where all of your designs can be found and the plans purchased. I have looked for them on your blog and see the description and the purchase plans but I do not find all of your plans in one condensed place - unless I am just missing it.
> 
> Safe travels.


http://chrismorejohn.com/conchfish-16-plans-for-sale/

I think you have to email him for a specific plan at [email protected]


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## firecat1981

Wait a second! You can't leave until we have a published book! That was the imaginary cyberspace contract I signed when I clicked on this post!


----------



## Zika

Some beautiful wooden mounts/art, Chris. I especially like the sea turtles. The skiff ain't too shabby, either. 

Best wishes for the move and enjoy the semi-retirement. Working on a similar plan myself.


----------



## DuckNut

yobata said:


> http://chrismorejohn.com/conchfish-16-plans-for-sale/
> 
> I think you have to email him for a specific plan at [email protected]


I found that one but what about the other 8-10?

Also, how can I order a set of plans if I 1) don't have any idea of the specs and 2) know the name?

Convoluted.


----------



## yobata

DuckNut said:


> I found that one but what about the other 8-10?
> 
> Also, how can I order a set of plans if I 1) don't have any idea of the specs and 2) know the name?
> 
> Convoluted.


Hey! He ain't a WEB designer 
http://chrismorejohn.blogspot.com/2019/05/blog-post.html


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## DuckNut

yobata said:


> Hey! He ain't a WEB designer
> http://chrismorejohn.blogspot.com/2019/05/blog-post.html


Shit, that is just not right.

I played on his blog for 45 minutes trying to find that BEFORE I posted.

I still think he needs to have someone create a concise website for this. I am willing to bet someone on here would even volunteer to do it for him.

EDIT: I went and looked at that and it is only fo the Conch in a couple lengths and the Berrylium. Still can't find the others.


----------



## Copahee Hound

DuckNut said:


> Shit, that is just not right.
> 
> I played on his blog for 45 minutes trying to find that BEFORE I posted.
> 
> I still think he needs to have someone create a concise website for this. I am willing to bet someone on here would even volunteer to do it for him.
> 
> EDIT: I went and looked at that and it is only fo the Conch in a couple lengths and the Berrylium. Still can't find the others.


I'm with you Duck. Not that I'm interested in building something anytime soon, or maybe ever again, but there is not one website-blog-insta-book page where you can see a comparison of all the current designs and purchase plans to see what will suit your needs. I think I like the Turbot, but I need more info than draft. We all love the Conch, but CM has so many more designs that it would be nice to compare all of them in one place


----------



## Chris Morejohn

DuckNut said:


> Shit, that is just not right.
> 
> I played on his blog for 45 minutes trying to find that BEFORE I posted.
> 
> I still think he needs to have someone create a concise website for this. I am willing to bet someone on here would even volunteer to do it for him.
> 
> EDIT: I went and looked at that and it is only fo the Conch in a couple lengths and the Berrylium. Still can't find the others.


I wish I had the time to do more but I have lots of other things going on.
Look up on hogfishdesigns.wordpress.com
Under.....April 30 2020, Skiff Designs, comparisons, plans costs.

On this post I show, the original Whipray, the 2 CONCHFISH designs, the Lithium design, the Beryllium design which can be built with 2 different bottoms and any length from 18’.9” down to 16’
Vee bottom or pad version and tunnel.
Then there’s the Boron design which has 3 separate set of plans for wood, aluminum or core.
Then onto the Turbot hull design that has 2 different bottom chine options and Vees or pads,
The Slippery Dick designs the 14’ and the 16’ 
The Captain 18’ design which is my updated past Guide design,
The Megalops 18 which is my updated Marquesa design.
I also have my past HB pro design but I don’t see any need for that to be built because my latest design make that design old school.


Not shown is my Captive 14’ design that can be purchased from Jon Selman’s blog site under his name.

if you go through my blog posts I have other designs like my Mud Mullet, the Pufferfish, 37’ power cat, 21’ offshore skiff and others.
I have had a constant stream of inquirers for plans or custom work.
I am not really too concerned about having a proper web site. People find me no problem. 
I just share my info In the hope people can find inspiration or ideas on their own.
It’s been printed on this site many times if wanting info just email me at [email protected] to buy plans or get directed in the right direction.
By the end of the summer I will have a new 20’ deep vee skiff design in cad done for that market, and 2 other smaller skiff designs that are very different from all the other designs.

I am into rigging now and should have the skiff in the water mid week.
Would have had the whole console rigged today but had a visitor so will have better photos tomorrow.


----------



## Mike Haydon

I can tell you from personal emails the turbot wasnt what I needed. Especially when a lot of the designs can be cut to 16'. He doesnt have a one size fits all. Email him at spank the mermaid and tell him what you need it to do. Ie... size, draft, load, engine size, live well, trolling motor. All that adds weight. He doesnt want you to build something from a spec you read but rather help you in the right direction for what you are needing. He is incredibly nice to work with.
Michael


----------



## albrighty_then

What would be the difference in performance with the beryllium and the megalops?


----------



## Chris Morejohn

albrighty_then said:


> What would be the difference in performance with the beryllium and the megalops?


The Megalops is my updated version of my old Marquesa design. I just filled in the stern and added the reverse spray strake.

Now the Beryllium skiff you see here is 18’9” loa on the hull but 19’ loa on deck. It’s 3” narrower in transom waterline beam.
The Beryllium has the same vee though at stations 5-9 going forward as the Marquesa. So it will ride as good but be extreamy drier in running through rough waters. It has a better spray rail and it has the reverse spray strake. 

I will have a 20’ deep vee design finished in a few months that will make the Megalops and the Marquesa designs outdated. They will be to me not worth building.
This new design will be for those that want the vee hull ride, have the classic good looks of the Marquesa but be very dry running.

going out the door Tuesday.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Looks like one more post to go. She’s rigged and will be water tested this Monday on a local fresh water lake nearby here. It’s an hour and a half drive to salt water so will just lunch here and see if she floats. The owner is a guide so needs to get back to work now that things are starting up again.
Fully rigged less engine Eric Kimes, I and a friend of Eric’s were able to carry her out and slide her onto the trailer. She will be weighed so will be able to give you all a true weight of hull, then gear and so on. I will be very accurate when measuring the draft, but it will be in fresh water so will draft deeper than if in salt water.
I am happy with how she came out. The hatches work better than I had hoped. Videos here are time consuming so if wanting to see more look up my Instagram site of my blog.
You can see her next to my last all custom Oneoff build the lithium 18 skiff I buil 2-1/2 years ago in the keys. There’s a Marquesa in the background.
I will post all my expenses and build times on the last post here in a few days. 
With this build the owner and I wanted the deck to be as hole free as possible and to as easy to maintain as can be.
There are only 8 tru bolts piercing the deck. The owner will add a bit of the croc sea deck stuff to the hull sides and rod racks when he gets back home.
Talk soon...


----------



## BassFlats

A ting of beauty Chris.


----------



## texasag07

Chris why did you design the berrylium hull with a slightly upturned bow instead of the flat deck similar to the most skiff’s in your previous design’s.

At least to my eyes that what I looks like from the pictures?


----------



## Monoman

texasag07 said:


> Chris why did you design the berrylium hull with a slightly upturned bow instead of the flat deck similar to the most skiff’s in your previous design’s.
> 
> At least to my eyes that what I looks like from the pictures?


I thought I was the only one. I hope he replies.


----------



## Mike Haydon

We are not seeing her resting on her lines in the water. He said there is more v in a few of the forward stations so it may rest a little deeper and still be flat?


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Monoman said:


> I thought I was the only one. I hope he replies.


Sitting giving blood today. I love the way you guys look at all the details. It’s a sickness for sure. I can’t sit in a building and not line up the verticals and horizontals.
It’s design is a flat sheer. It’s flat but with my iPad camera at times it kinda distorts things. 
The last picture looks like the Berylliums sheer has a bit of curve to it too me. It’s an optical illusion.
When we launch on Monday I will post pictures here.
The Lithium skiffs sheer to me almost looks slightly reverse but it’s not in the last picture.


----------



## Monoman

Thanks I figured as much and just was gong to wait and see. I doubt I'll ever build my own but it is darn fun to watch.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Today my friend Eric Kimes and I weighed his HB Marquesa 18’ skiff along with the Lithium 18 skiff I built for him 2-1/2 years ago. We also weighed the Beryllium 19’ skiff seen here.
In town just down the road here In Mt. Olive is the main weigh scale for all the feed trucks. Extremely accurate scale. It’s all farming here.
What we did was record everything in videos so no fussing later from the gallery.
We weighed the truck with the skiff on each trailer. We then weighed the truck alone. We then took the skiffs off the trailers and weighed again.
Now what I have done in my time is weigh every single piece of hardware that can be put on a skiff. From screws, to wire, rub rails by the foot on down to electrical fittings. It’s extensive. All down to the .01 ounce.
With this list I know exactly what the rigging part of the Beryllium weighs and any other skiff ever built. The cool thing about this is it’s pretty much the same weight that goes on all skiffs. Rub rail weights differ a bit but not by much. Then it’s down to steering wheel makes. 
So what I installed on my 19’ long lithium skiff is pretty much the same thing as what goes on all skiffs. Just add or subtract some ounces for the rubrail.
Batteries play a big roll too. On the Beryllium I bought a 58lb marine battery.
I will post all my numbers on my blog for the accountants on here.

So... by the numbers,

The Beryllium 19 weighs all up fully rigged as seen above without fuel...1120 lbs.
Less motor and rigging as a bare hull, hatches etc...676 lbs.

the Lithium 18 is a solid glass hull, built with 1-1/8” thick core for all the interior structure. She is a tank.
Fully rigged with a tiller Tohatsu 50....1198Lbs.
Less engine and rigging...bare hull and hatches with 24 gal aluminum fuel tank....834Lbs.

the HB Marquesa 18 has a 115 Evinrude on her, with a trolling motor on the bow. She weighs rigged as such at 1602 Lbs.
Less engine and all rigging...902 for the bare hull. She floats nice and high.

The total weight for all rigging on the Beryllium skiff which includes Sea Star steering, everything is 183 lbs.
I added and subtracted this weight from the other 2 different skiffs using my master weight list

ok now what I did was look up current hull weight quotes from manufacturers today.
The Chittum 21 is the closest hull in size to the Beryllium 19. 
They say 750 lbs for the hull weight. So if you subtract the 182 lbs as a close rigging weight then their hull weighs 567 Lbs for a 21’ skiff ? 

HB says their Marquesa hulls weight is 695 lbs.
Subtract the basic rigging weight of 183lbs then the bare hull should weigh 512 Lbs.
I wonder what’s up with the “hull weights”. 
Now I have the hull dimensions of the above hulls so I know what their displacements are which means it’s very easy to just look at the waterline to know how much they really weigh. And I have my weight list. 

Now onto what I spent on my build.

I keep very meticulous records. Total cost for the skiff seen above including all jig work, extra tables, fully rigged with an epoxy outer hull and the rest in US Composite polyester resin using Divinycell core and AWLGRIP paint, Print cost to have the plans on hand,Etc.
She came to $9,787.05.
Now add the Yahmaha 70, it’s prop and the trailer cost.
Oh yea don’t forget to buy the plans, $350.00 + printing costs.
Helps keep me in my black beans and rice lifestyle.

something to ponder...
I used just over 225 yards of materials in this build. This comprised Basalt cloth, eglass cloth and matt.
I spent $1,070.00 on the above materials if I used all carbon cloth weave materials at lets say $23.00 a yard that means an all carbon skiffs needed material would be $5,175.00. Now subtract the above materials and you get $4,105.00 all up cost.
To do this on the CHITTUM 18 which is way smaller than the Beryllium above You will be charged $15,000.00 more for just the carbon cloth upgrade. 
Go figure...Hal’s a genius 








This is the scale showing truck, skiff on the trailer.
Total 9,200 lbs.
- 7600 lbs truck weight
= 1600 lbs trailer and skiff
- 480 lbs trailer
= 1120 lbs hull and motor skiff fully rigged
- 261 lbs motor and prop
=857 lbs skiff hull rigged
- 183 lbs rigging complete 
=676 “ bare hull weight”

Beryllium 19 hulls displacement draft weight at 6” is 1373 Lbs.
So add fuel at 20 gals x 6.3 lbs per gal = 126 lbs.
Looks like she will draft at around 6-1/2” - 7” as built with sports aboard.


















launching on Monday.


----------



## Monoman

It will be interesting to see how much other people's builds weigh ... including the aluminium ones.


----------



## bryson

I might be wrong, but I think that Lithium was popped from a mold, correct? And if the Lithium is very similar in size to the Beryllium, then the weight difference would be primarily due to... build technique? Materials/schedule?

Very interesting, especially since we had a thread on this pretty recently. This could be the most relevant weight comparison we've seen -- two nearly identical skiffs built with different methods ("home built" vs "production").

Pretty sweet looking fleet there, by the way. That's quite a photo op.

edit: found the thread I was talking about
https://www.microskiff.com/threads/...eight-reductions-additions.75026/#post-700572


----------



## Chris Morejohn

bryson said:


> I might be wrong, but I think that Lithium was popped from a mold, correct? And if the Lithium is very similar in size to the Beryllium, then the weight difference would be primarily due to... build technique? Materials/schedule?
> 
> Very interesting, especially since we had a thread on this pretty recently. This could be the most relevant weight comparison we've seen -- two nearly identical skiffs built with different methods ("home built" vs "production").
> 
> Pretty sweet looking fleet there, by the way. That's quite a photo op.
> 
> edit: found the thread I was talking about
> https://www.microskiff.com/threads/production-skiff’s-vs-home-built-skiff’s-weight-reductions-additions.75026/#post-700572


Bryson,
The lithium skiff I built from the mold I helped build. I built a deck plug and then a mold off of that and then made my deck from that mold. I got a really good deal on my interior structure core being 1-1/8” thick. The hull is laid up solid.
Gelcoat,
3/4 oz skin coat
2 layers 1-1/2 oz Matt then a layer of 18 oz roving on top.
Replete the above.
The the hull had a 12” wide Uni carbon layer down under the stringers from just forward of the forward bulKhead to just under the front of the aft seat boxes.
The whole build can be seen on my blog and Instagram site.
They lithium and Beryllium differ in waterline beam with the Beryllium being 1-1/2 “ wider, and 12” longer at the stern. They both share the same deck sheer beams/ measurements except the added 12” length.
As you all can see a solid glass hull is way low tech but very close to all core.
If I had a mold I would build solid old school glass hulls.
You have run the lithium skiff I built so you know how she feels.
I could go way lighter and still be plenty strong but I like the weights for these skiffs. They have way more storage and room than the wider Marquesa skiff build.


----------



## VANMflyfishing

Now the question remains...with this lifetime of innovation, which is the favorite child??


----------



## texasag07

Chris I’m surprised how much more the marquesa comes in at than the berrylium. 

I can see that the 115 etec prolly weights 140lbs more than the f-70, plus another 150 for the troller and batteries. Yet even at those numbers I’m still trying to figure out where the extra 200 lbs is coming from in that skiff. Any help/opinion would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks so much to you and Eric for this data as this is the stuff consumers/builders need to make good decisions.


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## Chris Morejohn

VANMflyfishing said:


> Now the question remains...with this lifetime of innovation, which is the favorite child??


Ha! Good question but it’s not a really fair one. I have been compelled to keep refining my past hulls that fit into certain niches so as I go along I feel they do gain my favor. The reason I have as many designs out there is that there still is so many ways to achieve the same goals but in so many different ways.
I do get discouraged by seeing lots of my design elements borrowed on so many other craft but not having advanced their past concept, no improvements done.
Since I introduced the Lithiums radical rounded stern and it’s lower chine details I can see huge improvements in turning at high speeds, dryness in running, backing up under power or poling, and quietness When fishing.
But I see no one else looking at adding some of these prover details to their adaptations, just the look of adding from my past.
Best to ask me that question in person.

as for the Marquesas added weight, you did not add in the 183 lbs typical rigging weight, all the baitwell pump, through stuff along with the way that Hells Bay builds skiffs today.


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## Chris Morejohn

We launched the Beryllium 19’ skiff today for a short fresh water lake trial run.
Lots of good videos on my blog and Instagram site.
Here’s what she looks like with 10 gals of gas, 2 bags of ice, 22 undrunk beers, Yeti cooler, fishing rods and gear aboard.
Eric weighs 250 and Rob weighs 140 wet.
She is very stable to walk around on.
Draft without people in fresh water was 5-1/2”.
She turned at 32 mph on a dime without sliding.
Rob will send me numbers when he gets the motor broken in.
we could back her up in a straight line forever with ease.
The rounded stern really is nice, no wakes or eddies ever.
Rachel I i are off driving out west in a couple days.
You all take care, enjoy your summer.


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## Chris Morejohn

Some more pictures


----------



## bryson

Congrats Chris! You've got to be proud of how the new design is performing.


----------



## VANMflyfishing

Chris Morejohn said:


> Ha! Good question but it’s not a really fair one. I have been compelled to keep refining my past hulls that fit into certain niches so as I go along I feel they do gain my favor. The reason I have as many designs out there is that there still is so many ways to achieve the same goals but in so many different ways.
> I do get discouraged by seeing lots of my design elements borrowed on so many other craft but not having advanced their past concept, no improvements done.
> Since I introduced the Lithiums radical rounded stern and it’s lower chine details I can see huge improvements in turning at high speeds, dryness in running, backing up under power or poling, and quietness When fishing.
> But I see no one else looking at adding some of these prover details to their adaptations, just the look of adding from my past.
> Best to ask me that question in person.
> 
> as for the Marquesas added weight, you did not add in the 183 lbs typical rigging weight, all the baitwell pump, through stuff along with the way that Hells Bay builds skiffs today.



Totally understand, each skiff has a job and some perform different than others. My plan is to start a Beryllium this fall! My adaptation would be to shrink it down to 17', 50hp tiller, similar deck mold as the Lithium, but have a piece of deck using your hinge design that connects the two transom boxes with a strut underneath it. This will allow the ability to create a bench to stand and fish from or you can stand on the floor if it gets rough. 

So many possibilities. Thank you for sharing everything with the world! Beer on me if we ever meet.


----------



## Tom Anderson

Hello Chris,
I've really enjoyed reading through some of the history of your designs. Please excuse me if I missed in somewhere in this thread but . . . are the plans for the Beryllium available for purchase? I didn't see them on your website. Ideally, I'd like the Beryllium but with a tiller steer OB and the transom arrangement shown on the center model in the pictures.


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## Mountolive

Tom Anderson said:


> Hello Chris,
> I've really enjoyed reading through some of the history of your designs. Please excuse me if I missed in somewhere in this thread but . . . are the plans for the Beryllium available for purchase? I didn't see them on your website. Ideally, I'd like the Beryllium but with a tiller steer OB and the transom arrangement shown on the center model in the pictures.


[email protected]

For any Morejohn plans.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Thanks Eric. All my info is on my blog. Just have to look.
Here’s some pictures of the skiff being used. Top speed so far loaded with 2 guys aboard seen so far is 41 mph with the 70 on her. The owner is going to try a different prop as its maxing out too quick. Remember this hull has 2x the interior size as an HPX, CHITTUM, HB PRO. It’s about the same size as the CHITTUM 21 in interior volume.
I am now permanently moved to the PNW.


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## firecat1981

CM, while I appreciate your blog as many do, it took me a while of searching to figure out where to even ask about the plans. I would highly suggest you get your business partner to setup a simple website to advertise and sell the plans. It's as easy as setting up a blog these days and doesn't cost much. You would be able to reach a greater audience and help many more guys this way. Enjoy the new home.


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## VANMflyfishing

@Chris Morejohn I've built a few basic websites via WordPress. I'm happy to help consolidate information by skiff design. Shouldn't take too long and I enjoy doing it. If you do a subdomain like the hogfishdesign page, it doesn't cost anything. Have Nathan email me if you are interested - [email protected] - Hope you are enjoying semi-retirement!


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## Chris Morejohn

T


VANMflyfishing said:


> @Chris Morejohn I've built a few basic websites via WordPress. I'm happy to help consolidate information by skiff design. Shouldn't take too long and I enjoy doing it. If you do a subdomain like the hogfishdesign page, it doesn't cost anything. Have Nathan email me if you are interested - [email protected] - Hope you are enjoying semi-retirement!


thanks so much guys for the info and offer. Truth is with my life I have been just swamped with emails, my moving, getting my sailboat back to sea life and getting here in BC. My present goal being anchored doing my 14 days of quarantine here is to write up all the info of my Beryllium build so I hopefully don’t have to answer questions anymore on how to do this or that.
The other thing is I just started all this to provide the plans and info to the public not as a business but to just say here’s designs that can be built if you have the time and inclination to have a top end proven skiff if you can’t afford the price of buying one.
The response has been great, but it’s killing me to answer all the questions. To sell one set of plans takes at times up to 10-15 emails and then it’s lots more as the build goes along. At present
I am trying to get the info on how to build One done ASAP as there is no other site that provides this info. Once done then this should help me and the builders.
My goal once my build info is done is to back off way away from being online, I just am looking to have my life back.
Of course I know that once I stop going online then things will slow way down just like bad news gets forgotten so fast.
The info is there on my blog but not done properly. I just don’t have the time or knowledge to deal with it now.
Maybe in the cold of next winter I will find the time...nope, I will be in Hawaii finishing the build I started of the 57’ sailing canoe.
No rest for me. Life is good.
Thanks everyone for the support and kind words. if in BC look me up on Hornby island.
Take care


----------



## Chris Morejohn

jumping back in here to let you all know what’s up. Alls well out here in BC the land of free year round air conditionin. Getting our place sorted.
lots of Beryllium skiffs under construction now along with the Conchfishes, Turbot, Borons and others.
my lithium skiff design has come to market now under the name Matacumbe 18 at Ancona boats. You all only see a bit of what’s up here as most builders don’t do social media.
There is 1 builder that has increased the length and freeboard of the Beryllium to 21. 
There will be a new design coming out next year that will be a deep vee 17.6 , 12 degrees built by a well known production company. Also at least 2 companies gearing up now to build CF 16-17.8 hulls in kit form to finished using molds.
Capt. Robert Alexander that owns the Beryllium that I built is very happy with her. 
busy as ever, stay safe and take care


----------



## TexasFisherman

Chris Morejohn said:


> We launched the Beryllium 19’ skiff today for a short fresh water lake trial run.
> Lots of good videos on my blog and Instagram site.
> Here’s what she looks like with 10 gals of gas, 2 bags of ice, 22 undrunk beers, Yeti cooler, fishing rods and gear aboard.
> Eric weighs 250 and Rob weighs 140 wet.
> She is very stable to walk around on.
> Draft without people in fresh water was 5-1/2”.
> She turned at 32 mph on a dime without sliding.
> Rob will send me numbers when he gets the motor broken in.
> we could back her up in a straight line forever with ease.
> The rounded stern really is nice, no wakes or eddies ever.
> Rachel I i are off driving out west in a couple days.
> You all take care, enjoy your summer.
> View attachment 139522
> View attachment 139524
> View attachment 139526
> View attachment 139528
> View attachment 139530
> View attachment 139532
> View attachment 139534
> View attachment 139536
> View attachment 139538


can someone tell me what boat is the far left in the pitcures above


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Just giving a small update on some of what I do in my spare time. Lots of Beryllium skiffs being built but not online. 27 are now underway with about 10 nearing completion as are many CF skiffs.
here are a couple of pictures that get sent to me. 
nathan and I will have a Glades type skiff design ready by February. The CF16 here is my Mark 2 version now that will come standard with all plans.
I will be finishing my Beryllium build writing info on my blog this winter for sure. I will be in Hawaii the rest of the winter finishing my 57’ Hawaiian sailing canoe project so will write after work.
ok see you later....


----------



## DuckNut

TexasFisherman said:


> can someone tell me what boat is the far left in the pitcures above


You mean the one with Hells Bay logo on it?


----------



## SkiffaDeeDooDah

TexasFisherman said:


> can someone tell me what boat is the far left in the pitcures above


Marquesa - previous generation, that had sponsons.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

I am presently in Hilo Hawaii finishing the 57’ sailing canoe project.
Here are some recent photos of 2 finished Beryllium skiffs of different lengths.
The one with the Teak cockpit was built by Harris Marshall. Has a 90 tiller on it.
The other one is by Corey Brueckner. Both did excellent first class jobs and the best thing is they barely asked me any questions.









C


----------



## Renegade

Chris Morejohn said:


> View attachment 164041
> View attachment 164042
> 
> View attachment 164043
> 
> View attachment 164044
> 
> View attachment 164045
> 
> View attachment 164046
> 
> View attachment 164047
> 
> Just giving a small update on some of what I do in my spare time. Lots of Beryllium skiffs being built but not online. 27 are now underway with about 10 nearing completion as are many CF skiffs.
> here are a couple of pictures that get sent to me.
> nathan and I will have a Glades type skiff design ready by February. The CF16 here is my Mark 2 version now that will come standard with all plans.
> I will be finishing my Beryllium build writing info on my blog this winter for sure. I will be in Hawaii the rest of the winter finishing my 57’ Hawaiian sailing canoe project so will write after work.
> ok see you later....
> View attachment 164041
> View attachment 164042
> View attachment 164043
> View attachment 164044
> View attachment 164045
> View attachment 164046
> View attachment 164047


Chris, 

Did the Glades design ever get completed? If so, where can we see more?


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Renegade said:


> Chris,
> 
> Did the Glades design ever get completed? If so, where can we see more?


Yes, long time ago. Has full patterns. $350.00 for the plans, [email protected] to purchase. You can already see the hull shape here, the rest to see is the build jig etc.


----------



## Natemanz

Awesome.


----------



## boneappetite

Each one more beautiful than the other!


----------



## Teeter

Can anyone help me with locating this part. I have called it a fuel tank bulk head fitting, fuel tank fill fitting, and cannot get anywhere with finding it online.


----------



## Mike Haydon

It's a brass through hull. Are you just trying to use it for the fill?


----------



## Teeter

Yes just like Chris did on this build. I just can't seem to find them online.


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## Mike Haydon

Teeter said:


> Yes just like Chris did on this build. I just can't seem to find them online.


It's a simple 1-1/2" bronze through hull so you can have standard fuel hose and filler neck.


----------



## Teeter

Mike Haydon said:


> It's a simple 1-1/2" bronze through hull so you can have standard fuel hose and filler neck.


Thanks Mike.


----------



## Mountolive

TexasFisherman said:


> can someone tell me what boat is the far left in the pitcures above


It is a 2004 Hells Bay Marquesa


----------



## GoGataGo52__20

Does anyone know if Chris ever finished the plans for the offshore skiff, I believe he was calling it a spearfish 21?


----------



## hillcharl

GoGataGo52__20 said:


> Does anyone know if Chris ever finished the plans for the offshore skiff, I believe he was calling it a spearfish 21?


I'm pretty sure he did. Email him


----------



## GoGataGo52__20

Thanks I got a hold of them, he doesn’t have any plans for the 21 ft offshore one but I could modify something else for this purpose


----------



## lowcountryreds

Looking good!


----------



## BDann

Line drawings of boats do something to me…. I really wish I could just hang out, watch the process and learn how the process goes.


----------



## emilio19

Good luck!


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## billdouglass89

Can anyone share their thoughts on the best make and model trailer for this hull Chris has made in this thread? I am building the same boat after buying the plans from Chris and I haven’t decided on the best trailer I should buy….thanks!


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## 17376

@Chris Beutel maybe he can help, not sure though


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## Chris Morejohn

Hey been awhile….lots of Beryllium’s getting launched lately. Showing a couple photos here.




























I will have a deep vee version ready for plans sales with station patterns to go along with the design by December. The Oxygen 18.9 will be built in Australia this coming winter by Merino Boatworks. 
looking for a US builder.


















Hayarri Boatworks has been importing their build of the Beryllium design to the US via a Hayarri US dealer. Look them up on Instagram. Average price as seen here is $53,000.00 US.

































My wife Rachel and I had a great summer sailing up north of Vancouver island on our 25’ sloop as mother ship to our 12’3” Microskiff this summer.
Lots going on this winter with new designs coming out in plans and builds. 
cheers !


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## SkiffaDeeDooDah

Congrats @Chris Morejohn ! Hope all is well with you. I love the new Oxygen 18.6 design! Looks like a smooth ride with some deadrise, and good lift, cornering and stability with the change in chines. I may have missed it, but what's the waterline beam?

Edit: Same design in a 16.3' tiller version would be sweet too!


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## Mike Haydon

Chris Morejohn said:


> Hey been awhile….lots of Beryllium’s getting launched lately. Showing a couple photos here.
> 
> 
> View attachment 216116
> 
> View attachment 216118
> 
> View attachment 216117
> 
> 
> 
> I will have a deep vee version ready for plans sales with station patterns to go along with the design by December. The Oxygen 18.9 will be built in Australia this coming winter by Merino Boatworks.
> looking for a US builder.
> 
> View attachment 216119
> 
> View attachment 216120
> 
> 
> Hayarri Boatworks has been importing their build of the Beryllium design to the US via a Hayarri US dealer. Look them up on Instagram. Average price as seen here is $53,000.00 US.
> 
> View attachment 216124
> 
> View attachment 216123
> 
> View attachment 216121
> 
> View attachment 216122
> 
> My wife Rachel and I had a great summer sailing up north of Vancouver island on our 25’ sloop as mother ship to our 12’3” Microskiff this summer.
> Lots going on this winter with new designs coming out in plans and builds.
> cheers !
> View attachment 216125


Looks similiar to the islandia you did. Did it hurt getting rid of the old sailboat?


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## Chris Morejohn

Mike Haydon said:


> Looks similiar to the islandia you did. Did it hurt getting rid of the old sailboat?


Islandia skiff is very different, more vee, smaller etc. SouthDade skiffs should have a hull out soon.
Yes it was sad to see the Hogfish go. My wife Rachel has sailed 40,000 ocean sea miles with me and wants to enjoy land life now. We like our small boat now for up here. I plan on sailing it to Australia in a year or so taking a couple years to do it. Then sell it there and build a new boat back up here
Y









The South Dade Islandia hull design


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## Gatorbig

Can't wait to see one in the water.


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## draggin flies

sorry if I missed this but what motor are you going with


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## Mike Haydon

Chris Morejohn said:


> Islandia skiff is very different, more vee, smaller etc. SouthDade skiffs should have a hull out soon.
> Yes it was sad to see the Hogfish go. My wife Rachel has sailed 40,000 ocean sea miles with me and wants to enjoy land life now. We like our small boat now for up here. I plan on sailing it to Australia in a year or so taking a couple years to do it. Then sell it there and build a new boat back up here
> Y
> View attachment 217114
> 
> 
> The South Dade Islandia hull design


Chris I am sorry, never seen the lines drawing. That is very different. Like how you spread the deck out rounder and cant wait to see one complete. I do have one question for you. Did you ever complete the spearfish(?) Or have plans for something like this new oxygen design stretched to maybe 21' or 22' ? I am thinking of skipping the smaller build after the little johnsen is finished and go bigger for the family. But still need to get out from the nature coast. Thanks, Michael


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## Mike Haydon

draggin flies said:


> sorry if I missed this but what motor are you going with


Which boat are you asking about power? If it's the beryllium it's already complete and you can see it in the thread.


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## Chris Morejohn

Mike Haydon said:


> Chris I am sorry, never seen the lines drawing. That is very different. Like how you spread the deck out rounder and cant wait to see one complete. I do have one question for you. Did you ever complete the spearfish(?) Or have plans for something like this new oxygen design stretched to maybe 21' or 22' ? I am thinking of skipping the smaller build after the little johnsen is finished and go bigger for the family. But still need to get out from the nature coast. Thanks, Michael


I will post here in a few days the 21-23’ skiff designs I have that are finished. Have not posted anywhere yet as i am super busy. Takes time to answer questions.
The Islandia can run with a 60-90 hp. Mold is finished and hull#1 is being built now. Follow SouthDade on Instagram is best. Luis has been a great client. He is one of the few clients I have had that asks me lots of questions and then out of the blue sends me $200.00 here and there saying thanks for the info.he really wants to have a great builds.


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## Mike Haydon

Chris Morejohn said:


> I will post here in a few days the 21-23’ skiff designs I have that are finished. Have not posted anywhere yet as i am super busy. Takes time to answer questions.
> The Islandia can run with a 60-90 hp. Mold is finished and hull#1 is being built now. Follow SouthDade on Instagram is best. Luis has been a great client. He is one of the few clients I have had that asks me lots of questions and then out of the blue sends me $200.00 here and there saying thanks for the info.he really wants to have a great builds.


Yes sir. I have followed south Dade since their start. That's how I knew you drew it. There other new design looks nice too. Luis seems to have figured out a lot by doing so to speak. Thanks for the reply and look forward to the larger plans.


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## Chris Beutel

17376 said:


> @Chris Beutel maybe he can help, not sure though


 I have a Ramlin trailer that was build for a Beavertail skiff. It fits perfect. I had to adjust the bunks slightly and I am going to add a bow roller to give the front end some support when I have the tongue off.


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## Chris Morejohn

Corey Brueckner asked about a drawing of the Beryllium skiff. Here’s what I did in acrylics.
its 22x30”. I will email a pdf file photo of this sketch to all Beryllium builders that have launched their builds for free ….and include if you want your skiff in the middle like Corey’s skiff. I believe that you should be able to get this pdf file printed out on a canvas, or print paper for very little using the PDF. The tone of the color can be adjusted by the printer if you are there. The hull colors shown are as close as I could get to some of the builds so far.
I will be doing similar sketches for all of my designs over the coming winter. I hope this pdf email setup works because postage, printing and the time to wrap and send takes lots of time. I live on a small island now in BC that takes 2 car ferry rides to get to the Main island and printers.
I am not quite sure but I believe there are close to 30 Beryllium skiff designs floating now.
Happy spending season !


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