# Two part paint



## oysterbreath (Jan 13, 2009)

OK after reading all of the recent post about marine paint I've decided to go two-part. I stopped at west marine to pick up a real brochure for Interlux so that I could see the paint chips in person. First thing I noticed about Interlux is that their color selection for two part SUX!I want either a nice sea foam green or lime but I can't find a good rated two-part with those colors. Anyone know one? If not, I guess I'll just go with one of the "far too many" off white colors!


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## tntwill (Aug 24, 2011)

try sikkens great paint easy to spay and turns out slick with no orange peel like alot of marine paints do


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## oysterbreath (Jan 13, 2009)

I'll be rolling and tipping but I will take a look at that sikkens paint. Thanks.


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## Gator_Bob (Jun 26, 2007)

Look at "Tile Clad" from Sherwin Williams


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## paint it black (Nov 3, 2007)

Awlgrip.............


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

You are putting a tremendous amount of labor into that build. When you are ready to paint put it on the trailer and take it to paint it black.


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## oysterbreath (Jan 13, 2009)

> You are putting a tremendous amount of labor into that build.  When you are ready to paint put it on the trailer and take it to paint it black.


MY labor is free...the labor of others is not! lol
I got cha' though! I HAVE thought about farming out the painting. I just don't know how much it would end up costing. To me, my time has little value. If I wasn't building the boat I'd be reading some useless book, watching some usless TV show, or nagging my wife. At least by building the boat...my time is productive. Anyway, is it expensive to have a boat painted by a pro?


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## Les_Lammers (Feb 17, 2007)

I do not want to start a pizzing contest but *we* can be anal retentive about our boats. We have skiffs not yachts.  There are many good marine paints and some folks have favorites. That's fine *I* personally would use a good one part on the hull because touching up is a lot easier than two part. Now, if you know you will never hit an oyster bar or whatever go two part. Google a bit and you get more info than you want to know.

BTW, from looking at what you are building I think you can handle the paint. Nice boat.


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## cutrunner (Jun 8, 2010)

> Awlgrip.............


Yuuuuuuuupp


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## Les_Lammers (Feb 17, 2007)

> > Awlgrip.............
> 
> 
> Yuuuuuuuupp


Why? Won't it still scratch or chip?

I can see it on a yacht that costs $$$ just to put in dry dock and is in the H2O 24/7 but isn't it over kill for a micro?

Oysterbreath,

You can price match with West Marine.


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## twitch (Mar 4, 2007)

> > > Awlgrip.............
> >
> >
> > Yuuuuuuuupp
> ...


Any paint will scratch and chip, but Awlgrip holds up better and lasts longer. 

There never seems to be enough time or money in the budget to do it right the first time, but there is always enough of both to right the second go around....

I've got stuff that was painted with Awlgrip about 10 years ago and it still looks great. FWW


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## paint it black (Nov 3, 2007)

Been there, done that with the cheap one part stuff. I paint for a living. I wouldn't use ANYTHING else. 
One part stuff peels off, smudges off, flakes off, chips off, and sometimes risk the chance of it never drying. 
I just painted the inside of a buddies highsider with interlux perfection. And honestly, I would never use that paint again either. 
I mentioned it to him as an option, since he first tried doing it himself with a one part paint. Guess what happened? it never dried! Second go around, he wanted to use a two part. He went ahead and paid $100 for the kit of perfection with the one quart of spray thinner... That one kit of perfection doesn't even bring a full quart of paint. It's .66qt. So that when catalyzed, one has a quart of paint.

Now, that's cool and all if you want to spend that much money for a quart, but I can pay $135 for a quart kit of Awlgrip that ends up with two sprayable quarts of paint. Which would do a heck of a lot more than one quart would, and it's a far superior product. 
Awlgrip has a better finish overall, and better protection than ANY one part paint. Deeper shine, and last WAY longer.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Oyster,
I completely understand the free labor thing and even then there is give and take. I will place myself in your shoes. After sanding and fairing for 300 hours and 500 in construction I haven't spent a nickle on time. I too could paint the boat and get a good job but it certainly would never look as good as if, say Eric, painted it. And the paint is what everyone will see.

What I would do would be once I am ready for paint I would call a couple people and see what they would charge for the job, put the boat on the trailer and take it to them. The $500 it might cost would be well worth it if even if I was able to achieve a good paint job because the pro would achieve a phenomenal job.

Just my opinion as I fully understand my limitations and know how I keep my toys. I am pretty handy with the tools but I will never work on my motors - that is reserved for the pros.


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## paint it black (Nov 3, 2007)

here's the inside of my buddies highsider I shot last week. he webbed it using the krylon stuff....










still looks super glossy... I only shot two coats of paint, for that's all we had enough for. Interlux Perfection.


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## AfterHours2 (Aug 2, 2010)

Nice pattern on the webbing PIB. I wouldn't expect anything less from a true spray tech. Not to derail the thread but are you planning on painting your new Copperhead? Just being curious....


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## paint it black (Nov 3, 2007)

The new one will not be painted anytime soon. Eventually years down the line if it needs it, I'll shoot the hull in black Awlgrip.

But I will be doing some paint work on the old one. 
Since my buddy is the one who bought it off me, I promised I'd help him fix a couple scratches it had.
And we are going to redo the nonskid throughout. 
We will two tone it in Awlgrip. 
The hull just has a few scratches, so I may just fill those with black gelcoat and polish em out. 
I plan on staying away from mangroves on the new boat. So if someone's lure gets caught in the groves, try and pry it out, or pop off. lol screw that. I remember my first trip to Flamingo on the last Copperhead.
Got a small 2" scratch on the side cause a rook got his xrap caught up. lol

Then the other scratch that went from front to back, that was a freak accident that caused that one....lol


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## oysterbreath (Jan 13, 2009)

Thanks guys. I still have a ways to go but this all had given me some ideas.


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## chuck_finley (Sep 7, 2011)

I went with interlux 1 part and took the tape off today...im addings pics to my thread in the Boat yard basics section..under "sanding inside of my boat"..if you're interested in the finished look you can see it there..and this is my first time painting ANYTHING just watched the roll and tip vid and went for it


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## oysterbreath (Jan 13, 2009)

Thanks for the info. Hey, as anyone ever used alexseal paints? I love there color selection!


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

I have seen it and have heard very positive reports from 1st hand users but I have never used it - I have work boats, not show boats.


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## FellowShip1 (Dec 18, 2011)

This is a two part marine paint called Stirling Paint. I painted this 1976 SeaCraft in 2002 using the role and tip method 3 coats. Still have the boat.

http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1383424919294&set=a.1020750732666.4092.1642136145&type=3&permPage=1




FellowShip

____________________________________________________________________

Just for the Grins

Antique 23' SF Classic SeaCraft Owner
16' 4" Eagle


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## paint it black (Nov 3, 2007)

Sterling is a very good paint. Very similar to Awlgrip. In fact one of the paint suppliers I used replaced awlgrip with stirling. 



> This is a two part marine paint called Stirling Paint. I painted this 1976 SeaCraft in 2002 using the role and tip method 3 coats. Still have the boat.
> 
> http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=1383424919294&set=a.1020750732666.4092.1642136145&type=3&permPage=1
> 
> ...


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