# BROKE SLIDEBOLT!!! Microjacker



## CPurvis (Apr 6, 2016)

So the slidebolt on my brand new Atlas microjacker jackplate broke off flush. Any ideas or words of wisdom on how to get this out. I thought I could unscrew the lock nut on the other side but it looks to be recessed or something. Can't tell if the other side is threaded as well?


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## Backcountry 16 (Mar 15, 2016)

Wow I would be contacting atlas if I was you. Was the jackplate new?


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## CPurvis (Apr 6, 2016)

Backcountry 16 said:


> Wow I would be contacting atlas if I was you. Was the jackplate new?


Yeah man just got it with the new skiff. It seems like a simple fix if I could just get the bolt out. Might have to take it to a machine shop. That's an easy hundred dollars right there.


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## topnative2 (Feb 22, 2009)

cobalt drill bit and an "easy out"....call atlas anyway


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## Backcountry 16 (Mar 15, 2016)

topnative2 said:


> cobalt drill bit and an "easy out"....call atlas anyway


X2 on calling Atlas that's your hard earned money.


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## CPurvis (Apr 6, 2016)

Anyone know if they have a good warranty and customer service?


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

CPurvis said:


> Anyone know if they have a good warranty and customer service?


Yes, my new microjacker motor would not work brand new out of the box before I even installed it and I called them and they had a replacement overnighted.


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## CPurvis (Apr 6, 2016)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Yes, my new microjacker motor would not work brand new out of the box before I even installed it and I called them and they had a replacement overnighted.


That's cool. I hope they will just pay to have the bolt removed. I really don't want to have to replace it. Hell I didn't even install it having to rerun all the wires and stuff. If I could just get the broke off bolt out I can go to Home Depot and buy another one to replace. But that bolt is stuck in there good. So far my new skiff has been a royal pain in the ass.


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## MariettaMike (Jun 14, 2012)

You’ll probably have to take it off your boat and send it in for warranty repair.

I know they say to adjust the bolts so you can spin the washers by hand, but what they don’t tell you is that is dependent on which way the actuator has twisted the jack plate in relation to the base.

I’m glad I chickened out on trying to adjust mine when they seemed way too hard to turn.


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## Backcountry 16 (Mar 15, 2016)

CPurvis said:


> That's cool. I hope they will just pay to have the bolt removed. I really don't want to have to replace it. Hell I didn't even install it having to rerun all the wires and stuff. If I could just get the broke off bolt out I can go to Home Depot and buy another one to replace. But that bolt is stuck in there good. So far my new skiff has been a royal pain in the ass.


Welcome to boating it only gets worse jk.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Home Depot has crap SS, if there is another supplier close to you I'd look there first...


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## topnative2 (Feb 22, 2009)

x2 what Yobata said...ACE has mo better stainless


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## CPurvis (Apr 6, 2016)

yobata said:


> Home Depot has crap SS, if there is another supplier close to you I'd look there first...


Yeah I know I was just referencing how easy the repair would be.


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## CPurvis (Apr 6, 2016)

I


MariettaMike said:


> View attachment 17279
> You’ll probably have to take it off your boat and send it in for warranty repair.
> 
> I know they say to adjust the bolts so you can spin the washers by hand, but what they don’t tell you is that is dependent on which way the actuator has twisted the jack plate in relation to the base.
> ...


You know I am real cautious about this kind of thing because I've had it happen in the past so I really didn't put very much pressure on it. But I guess I put more than it wanted.


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## CPurvis (Apr 6, 2016)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Yes, my new microjacker motor would not work brand new out of the box before I even installed it and I called them and they had a replacement overnighted.


Do you know if the main black and white wire just plug into all of the relays and stuff. Like all I would have to do is unplug and plug back in? Like I said I didn't do the install.


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## MariettaMike (Jun 14, 2012)

CPurvis said:


> Do you know if the main black and white wire just plug into all of the relays and stuff. Like all I would have to do is unplug and plug back in? Like I said I didn't do the install.


Yes. There are a pair of black and white wires that go to the jack plate from the control relay harness via an automotive plug. Easy to take apart, and put back.

I would replace that plug with heat shrink marine grade butt splices.


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## CPurvis (Apr 6, 2016)

topnative2 said:


> cobalt drill bit and an "easy out"....call atlas anyway


So do you think this will get it out? There is a lock nut on the other side and it's pretty tight.


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## CPurvis (Apr 6, 2016)

MariettaMike said:


> Yes. There are a pair of black and white wires that go to the jack plate from the control relay harness via an automotive plug. Easy to take apart, and put back.
> 
> I would replace that plug with heat shrink marine grade butt splices.


Cool thanks. I hope I don't have to replace or send off for repair but it looks alot simpler than I thought.


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## Whiskey Angler (Mar 20, 2015)

CPurvis said:


> So do you think this will get it out? There is a lock nut on the other side and it's pretty tight.


Have you tried to put a wrench on the lock nut, and turn it out with the lock nut?

Is the plate threaded? Or, is the bolt just a thru-bolt that fasten via the nut?

If the plate is not threaded, put a wrench on the nut and turn it out while having somebody tap on the sheared side of the bolt ... to help give the bolt an outward direction while you turn it.

If the plate is threaded, the bolt will have to be drilled out; hole drilled down the center of the bolt. Once torque is applied to the bolt, it will likely collapse and the pieces can be removed and new bolt installed.

Also, that bolt was most likely over torqued/tensioned. Highly unlikely it was sheared.

Motor should be removed, or very well supported prior to doing any work on the jack plate.


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## KCTim (Feb 7, 2017)

Whiskey Angler said:


> Have you tried to put a wrench on the lock nut, and turn it out with the lock nut?
> 
> Is the plate threaded? Or, is the bolt just a thru-bolt that fasten via the nut?
> 
> ...


I would try this, and if the nut starts to spin off and there are enough threads visible, might try using a jam nut to get the bolt moving. In any case I would call Atlas as they can give you specific information on how it's put together.


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## CPurvis (Apr 6, 2016)

Whiskey Angler said:


> Have you tried to put a wrench on the lock nut, and turn it out with the lock nut?
> 
> Is the plate threaded? Or, is the bolt just a thru-bolt that fasten via the nut?
> 
> ...


The plate is threaded. I was thinking about using a left handed cobalt bit to drill it out. The lock nut is on there tight as hell. Any advice on getting it to loosen up other than alot of ass?

Thanks for the advice.


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## CPurvis (Apr 6, 2016)

TimR said:


> I would try this, and if the nut starts to spin off and there are enough threads visible, might try using a jam nut to get the bolt moving. In any case I would call Atlas as they can give you specific information on how it's put together.


Yeah I called TH marine and it is threaded but the nut is just torqued on so this should be a simple fix. 

Thanks for the help


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## Whiskey Angler (Mar 20, 2015)

CPurvis said:


> The plate is threaded. I was thinking about using a left handed cobalt bit to drill it out. The lock nut is on there tight as hell. Any advice on getting it to loosen up other than alot of ass?
> 
> Thanks for the advice.


I would recommend alot of ass. I'm sure your biggest fear is getting one of those giant skin flaps over your knuckle. So, I would get a long box wrench, and use a heavy hammer to tap the nut loose. Seriously, a 10# sledge is not too much...just use the head to tap the wrench and the momentum of the head will hopefully slowly looses the nut.

Good lord...stuck bolts get messy fast.


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## CPurvis (Apr 6, 2016)

Whiskey Angler said:


> I would recommend alot of ass. I'm sure your biggest fear is getting one of those giant skin flaps over your knuckle. So, I would get a long box wrench, and use a heavy hammer to tap the nut loose. Seriously, a 10# sledge is not too much...just use the head to tap the wrench and the momentum of the head will hopefully slowly looses the nut.
> 
> Good lord...stuck bolts get messy fast.


Ha! You know it. Thanks for all of the help.


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## CPurvis (Apr 6, 2016)

Got that Son of a Bitch!!! Thanks for all of the helpful advice. That's what this forum is all about.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

CPurvis said:


> Got that Son of a Bitch!!! Thanks for all of the helpful advice. That's what this forum is all about.


How? And congrats!


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## CPurvis (Apr 6, 2016)

yobata said:


> How? And congrats!


Well I ended up pulling the motor off to gain more access to break the jam nut loose. After getting the nut off I was able to loosen the bolt piece. I didn't have an easy out and I was not wanting to bring it through the threads due to a jagged piece sticking out. So I was able to back it out just enough so I could get the sawzall in and cut the jagged piece off and then just worked it through.


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## efi2712micro (Sep 17, 2015)

Just out of curiosity, does that issue happen often? Is it specific to the atlas micro?


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

efi2712micro said:


> Just out of curiosity, does that issue happen often? Is it specific to the atlas micro?


I broke mine even after I read this thread. It’s not a defect or bad design, there’s a nylock nut on the inside and when you go to loosen the bolt all it does is tighten up in the nut and ends up breaking off.


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## CPurvis (Apr 6, 2016)

efi2712micro said:


> Just out of curiosity, does that issue happen often? Is it specific to the atlas micro?


Gotta make sure you loosen the nylock nut first before loosening the bolt. Kind of my stupid mistake.


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## CPurvis (Apr 6, 2016)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> I broke mine even after I read this thread. It’s not a defect or bad design, there’s a nylock nut on the inside and when you go to loosen the bolt all it does is tighten up in the nut and ends up breaking off.


Damn really!?? Me sharing my dumd ass mistake was suppose to prevent someone else from making the same dumb ass mistake. LOL


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

CPurvis said:


> Damn really!?? Me sharing my dumd ass mistake was suppose to prevent someone else from making the same dumb ass mistake. LOL


I was replacing the actuator for the second time and a few too many beers and I got out the breaker bar when the bolt did not loosen.


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## Jim Lenfest (Jul 20, 2016)

That always sucks! Northern Tool used to sell reverse cutting drills just for this purpose. You drill with the drill in reverse, keep working up in size, and oftentimes the heat, friction and reverse rotation and this will spin right out. Worse case, once done drilling go to easy out. Next worse case, see if you can completely drill it out and add a new bolt and nut on the inside. And another thought, maybe you can just add a bolt immediately above or below the original. Lastly, if you completely remove and disassemble, a good TIG welder can fill that hole in and you can re drill and tap it out to the original specs. There are several ideas, hope the easiest works.


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## Jim Lenfest (Jul 20, 2016)

A lot of bad stainless steel bolts on the market. You put them together, especially with nyloc nuts, and they just seize together. We have also noted that using an impact wrench makes em want to seize even more often. Avoid impact wrench and tighten slow and steady and avoid nylocs if they are not needed. Use lock washers instead. We also use a lot of never seize, even on stainless and nyloc. Seems strange, but it works. The never seize helps in removal and the nylocs prevent loosening. That is the best I've got on that topic. As for drilling Stainless, patience is the best tool you can have in your tool box. As for drills, the best I have found so far, is High Speed Steel, those black drills, even the cheap Chinese ones have worked great for me. Also use grease instead of cutting oil and slow rpm's while drilling. just keep dipping the bit in grease every few seconds. If a bit has stopped cutting, then stop and resharpen it immediately as it is not going to get any better, lol. A dull bit will cause heat and it work hardens the stainless making it even harder to drill when you finally give up. Fall before last, I had to drill so many holes in stainless, that I literally took my bench grinder aboard the boat to keep refreshing the drill bits.


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## CPurvis (Apr 6, 2016)

Jim Lenfest said:


> A lot of bad stainless steel bolts on the market. You put them together, especially with nyloc nuts, and they just seize together. We have also noted that using an impact wrench makes em want to seize even more often. Avoid impact wrench and tighten slow and steady and avoid nylocs if they are not needed. Use lock washers instead. We also use a lot of never seize, even on stainless and nyloc. Seems strange, but it works. The never seize helps in removal and the nylocs prevent loosening. That is the best I've got on that topic. As for drilling Stainless, patience is the best tool you can have in your tool box. As for drills, the best I have found so far, is High Speed Steel, those black drills, even the cheap Chinese ones have worked great for me. Also use grease instead of cutting oil and slow rpm's while drilling. just keep dipping the bit in grease every few seconds. If a bit has stopped cutting, then stop and resharpen it immediately as it is not going to get any better, lol. A dull bit will cause heat and it work hardens the stainless making it even harder to drill when you finally give up. Fall before last, I had to drill so many holes in stainless, that I literally took my bench grinder aboard the boat to keep refreshing the drill bits.


Great info! Thanks for sharing.


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