# Cons of locating my cranking battery in the bow?



## Slacker (Oct 7, 2016)

These engines can be finicky about batteries. I went with the PC1100 on my tiller MFS50A and even though it’s pretty light at 27.5 lbs, it’s doing great. Also, voltage drop is related more to cable size, so whatever battery you choose, size your cable using a voltage drop calculator online. Before doing so, make darned certain of your 15 foot estimate. Moving to and from centerline and around obstacles uses more cable than you might realize. My only other advice is that fuel and batteries shouldn’t travel together, so consider carefully whether there’s a safe place for a battery forward.


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## bob_esper (Jun 3, 2021)

Just the pain of extending wires. Which isnt that big of a deal. it'll also take up more of your front hatch area that is normally used for life jackets and what not. I'm actually going to use my rear hatch as my storage for most things because my batteries and gas tank take up so much space up front.


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## Slacker (Oct 7, 2016)

Also, I know some people dog the Atlas Micro, but it’s a pretty clean install for a light boat. I’ve had them on my Glide and Chittum and they have both made the engine go up and come back down.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Slacker said:


> Also, I know some people dog the Atlas Micro, but it’s a pretty clean install for a light boat. I’ve had them on my Glide and Chittum and they have both made the engine go up and come back down.


I choose reliability over weight savings every time. Hull Marine’s reinforcement kit and harness/relay kit are great and If I absolutely had to have an Atlas Micro I’d buy these and install them right away but I’m still a huge believer in a Bob’s. Track record is eveything.


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

I actually have both new in the box right now. A buddy is buying the Atlas and reinforcement kit for his Beryllium. Another thing to consider with the Bob's, is you automatically gain about .5 inches of lift with the Bob's with the way they drill their mounting holes. And then the Bob's lifts 6" vs 5" for the Atlas. I'm going to run a @Smackdaddy53 low water pickup eventually.


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

As far as fuel and battery in the same compartment. Every skiff I know has the trolling motor batterie(s) in the bow compartment. I know my BT did.


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## Zika (Aug 6, 2015)

Have my starting and TM battery in the bow. Yes, it does eat up some storage, but it also helps balance the load. Both of mine are Odyssey AGMs and they haven't missed a beat. And I would go with Bob's jack plate in a NY minute if they still made the narrower version. My tech is installing the Hull Marine Products reinforcement kit on the Atlas when he hangs the new Yammie.


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## TheAdamsProject (Oct 29, 2007)

I would run it in the bow for sure. As for batteries I used an AGM group U1 which is a very small battery to crank my Tohatsu MFS 50hp for almost 3 years and was great. So either battery you mention has plenty more punch than the U1 I had. You will be good.


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## Slacker (Oct 7, 2016)

Having fuel and batteries forward can be safe, but your build is custom and I don’t know your tank set up, so I put that out there. If you have portable tanks in an unvented compartment like my Chittum, it’ll always smell like a gasoline spill and fumes will permeate anything you put in it. In my scenario, a battery would be dangerous in that compartment. With a built in tank sealed from the compartment, totally different story.


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Think I can coax 2 awg cables through a 1 inch ID cable chase?


Slacker said:


> Having fuel and batteries forward can be safe, but your build is custom and I don’t know your tank set up, so I put that out there. If you have portable tanks in an unvented compartment like my Chittum, it’ll always smell like a gasoline spill and fumes will permeate anything you put in it. In my scenario, a battery would be dangerous in that compartment. With a built in tank sealed from the compartment, totally different story.


I had a 12 gallon aluminum tank built. No doubt, batteries separate from any kind of fuel would be optimal. The Beavertail I ran had a plastic tank in the bow. I think in 2006 they had not mandated the non permeable aspect yet and it always smelled like gas in the compartment. The trolling battery was literally an inch from the tank. I would think the danger would be something metallic bouncing around in the compartment, laying across the terminals and arcing. A good cover would negate that.


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## Slacker (Oct 7, 2016)

2awg is about .375, so problem.

@Sublime. EDIT: I had measured some THHN cable I had before I answered this question. I then realized I also have 2awg stick leads…they’re more like .46 with the flexible jacket, so better check the diameter of your marine cable. I bet it’s closer to my welding leads. Still no issue for a straight run, but might get tricky making turns. Sorry for the possibly bad info.


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

Correct me if I'm wrong, but a 60 hp motor seems a little much for a Conchfish. If you went with a Suzuki 30 you could take about 50# off the transom.


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## ElLobo (Sep 14, 2020)

I just moved my cranking battery to the front hatch of my Waterman. Used 4 GA wire and everything works fine so far. Changed the battery to an Odyssey PC1200 and it cranks the F70 just fine. I only used about 10 ft runs of 4 GA from the front hatch to the switch in the rear compartment.


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Vertigo said:


> Correct me if I'm wrong, but a 60 hp motor seems a little much for a Conchfish. If you went with a Suzuki 30 you could take about 50# off the transom.


I started mine before the 17.5 plans were out. I did some different spacing on my stations so my skiff ended up about 18'-3" on the cap. I waffled back and forth between a 30 and a 50. Then we got a place on a local river where I will have frequent 15 mile runs, one way. With that in mind, I decided to go more horses to cover some ground. It will mean the difference in running the motor wide open to get 29 mph, to being able to run 30 without running wide open. Top speed should be upper 30s.


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## ElLobo (Sep 14, 2020)

Sublime said:


> I started mine before the 17.5 plans were out. I did some different spacing on my stations so my skiff ended up about 18'-3" on the cap. I waffled back and forth between a 30 and a 50. Then we got a place on a local river where I will have frequent 15 mile runs, one way. With that in mind, I decided to go more horses to cover some ground. It will mean the difference in running the motor wide open to get 29 mpg to being able to run 30 without running wide open. Top speed should be upper 30s.


There was someone on here recently with a 90hp on a whipray 16. Not saying thats best combo but your boat should handle the 60 fine I would think being similar to the whipray. Lots of guys with 70's on whips too


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

@bryson has shown me pics of his 17.5 Conchfish floating pretty dang level with a Tohatsu 50. He doesn't have a jack plate, but my skiff is a tad longer and holds more fuel up front.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Vertigo said:


> Correct me if I'm wrong, but a 60 hp motor seems a little much for a Conchfish. If you went with a Suzuki 30 you could take about 50# off the transom.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Do a center of mass, gravity and buoyancy calculation and know exactly what the batteries will do for balance. Also do a center of mass calculation for port starboard. Idea is to keep the weight equal distance from centerline and equal distance fore and aft 

Your center of gravity should be about 60% from the bow (this will help with planing). If you go back too far then you will get steering issues.

You might have to have the fat guys ride up front.

@firecat1981 did a great job calculating his on his build.


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## K3anderson (Jan 23, 2013)

From the factory at HB sealed compartment The tank has a vent obviously


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

K3anderson said:


> From the factory at HB sealed compartment The tank has a vent obviously
> View attachment 187247


YOU’RE GONNA BLOW UP!


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## K3anderson (Jan 23, 2013)

K3anderson said:


> From the factory at HB sealed compartment The tank has a vent obviously


PC 1200 has about half the footprint of the battery in the pic (which is a lithium 24V Tm batt). Before I had that powder coated tank, I had the standard aluminum and that same battery forever w/o issue,


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## coconutgroves (Sep 23, 2013)

Sublime said:


> As far as fuel and battery in the same compartment. Every skiff I know has the trolling motor batterie(s) in the bow compartment. I know my BT did.


This. You could build a battery platform directly in the center of the bow, a bit away from the tank, to push more weight up front. A battery switch is key, and keep the terminals covered and it should not be an issue.

Here is a mod someone did on their Whipray that was from a post - I kept it since I may move my battery up to the bow on my Whipray for the same results. Very clean. I would definitely strap or bolt that sucker down though.


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

coconutgroves said:


> This. You could build a battery platform directly in the center of the bow, a bit away from the tank, to push more weight up front. A battery switch is key, and keep the terminals covered and it should not be an issue.
> 
> Here is a mod someone did on their Whipray that was from a post - I kept it since I may move my battery up to the bow on my Whipray for the same results. Very clean. I would definitely strap or bolt that sucker down though.


Very similar to my layout. My cranking battery will go on the bigger shelf that my fuel tank is on. When I want to use a trolling motor, I will have a lithium on the smaller shelf.


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## MariettaMike (Jun 14, 2012)

Sublime said:


> So on my Conchfish build, I am worried about accumulating too much weight on the stern.
> 
> 60 Tohatsu -225 max with multifunction tiller handle
> Bob's Mini Jac - 30 pounds for the plate alone
> ...


It is my understanding that the Conchfish is basically Morejohn's modern-day Whipray. considering I've seen plenty of Whiprays rigged heavier than what you'll have I don't see your issue with stern weight.

And as for using the PC1200 vs PC925 the CCA capability increase will be negated by the voltage drop in the wires. So using larger/heavier wires with the lighter battery may be a better solution.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

MariettaMike said:


> I've seen plenty of Whiprays rigged heavier than what you'll have I don't see your issue with stern weight.


He is going to be more sensitive to stern weight because his boat will be lighter than a factory boat. With a lighter bow the weight in the stern can be uplifting. His saving grace may come from being longer and with the additional length up front could shift his waterline entry point significantly for the better without much work.


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## brettfergu55 (Jan 23, 2012)

Smackdaddy53 said:


>


shake and bake!


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