# Fuel/Water Separator



## Icroc (Feb 23, 2013)

I also use non ethanol. As long as you use non ethanol you are good to go, according to my mechanic. I have a 2018 30 hp tohotsu.


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## BassFlats (Nov 26, 2018)

I don't have a water-fuel separator on my 6 gallon tank and 30 etec. Never a problem. Rec 90 only and when not in use the tank is in the garage.


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## topnative2 (Feb 22, 2009)

One bad load of fuel out of a marina and u will wish u had put it on..........happened to me in pine island.

Other than above u do not need it


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

I have been boating for 30 years and mowing grass even longer and have only had one incident and that was traced back to a low volume gas station purchase.

Do what you want but non ethanol is your friend not foe.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Get a Moeller ClearSite and be done. No more worries. Less than a hundred bucks is cheap insurance. The head is composite so no worries about corrosion.


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## Capnredfish (Feb 1, 2012)

It is cheap insurance. But I don’t run one. Been running an Etec since 06. Never a fuel issue. Do buy gas from a high volume seller and never bought from a marina. If boat sits, the gas gets drained and used in my truck.


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## wwl (Aug 21, 2015)

Racor 120R-RAC-01 - under 100 bucks, mounts with two screws and two clamps for the fuel line and you are done. Cheap insurance, low maintenance, and all you need is one bad fuel delivery to justify it.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

I just put a new one in mine! Cheap insurance and it's easy to maintain. I have a built in tank however.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

I haven't used one in years, but I'll have one on my next boat!

I don't use rec90, I use regular ol 87 E10 and have so for the last 12 years or so. I have never had any issues. Went out on my skiff this morning, it's the first time it's been out since August! Fired right up. I always use either StarTron or Stabil marine, and again never had an issue. Even had E10 that was over a year old for the mower, works like new.

I feel to many guys have convinced themselves that E10 is the devil based on issues many of us had during the conversation years. If your running a boat that's less then a decade old, or atleast the fuel system is, and you have a motor less then a decade old, or again atleast the fuel system is, then E10 won't bother it much at all. Now if your tank and hoses are from the 80's then you are due for a refit anyway.

All that being said the math says we should all run a seperator/filter. One ruined fishing trip, one dirty tank of gas, one atmospheric leak to let water in..... will easily cost more then a $60 filter kit.


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## Gatorgrizz27 (Apr 4, 2015)

I’m running one on my skiff, but not one the clear bowl as I’ve heard several stories about them cracking. I really don’t see any reason not to, but I am going to carry a double ended barb fitting and a couple extra clamps to bypass it if I have a problem.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Close friend of mine is a outboard mechanic certified all, n he quoted bad gas keeps shops in business. $50.00 is lots cheaper than mechanic rate $100.00 hour..


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Gatorgrizz27 said:


> I’m running one on my skiff, but not one the clear bowl as I’ve heard several stories about them cracking. I really don’t see any reason not to, but I am going to carry a double ended barb fitting and a couple extra clamps to bypass it if I have a problem.


Paranoia will destroy ya.
6 years combined on the Moeller ClearSite on my last boat and my current one. I don’t see how anyone could crack a thick polycarbonate bowl like these. Don’t overtighten the thumb screw on the drain. It’s for fingers, not channel locks.
https://www.amazon.com/Moeller-Separating-Filter-System-Aluminum/dp/B000MTB6XY


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## ADicus (Feb 15, 2013)

I run a Racor and honestly have drained it twice with zero water in it! I also fill up on non-E even if it’s sitting in the garage condensation in the tank will cause water as well if it’s not full!


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## sjrobin (Jul 13, 2015)

Clean fuel is important to reliable engine service. Use the 10 micron screw on filter between the tank and engine and keep the fuel tank full to leave no space for H2O condensation. I was a scientist at one time.


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## ADicus (Feb 15, 2013)

I run a dehumidifier in my garage too helps keep all my gear dry and mold free! Keeps the garage nice and cool during the summer too!


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## Surffshr (Dec 28, 2017)

Zero chance I’d run without a fuel/water separator.


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## Guest (Feb 17, 2019)

Ok, here are my two pennies...
While the fine folks at Ankona may not have strongly reccomended one, EVERY engine manufacturer does strongly reccomend a fuel water separator be installed between the tank and motor. I am willing to bet that Ankona does have it as an option. Also, I am not sure if they have certified techs on staff or not so I wouldn’t necessarily say they “should” know that the engine manufacturers want them on there.


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## Tautog166 (Jul 7, 2018)

I’m surprised it didn’t have one on there.


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## Viking1 (May 23, 2010)

I use non ethanol gas and have a fuel water separator. As others have said it is cheap insurance and once you installed it you only have to buy a $11 to $20 filter once a year. I do trips in the Everglades and other places where you don't see another boat all day so for me it brings peace of mind.


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## tjtfishon (Feb 9, 2016)

Boatbrains said:


> Ok, here are my two pennies...
> While the fine folks at Ankona may not have strongly reccomended one, EVERY engine manufacturer does strongly reccomend a fuel water separator be installed between the tank and motor. I am willing to bet that Ankona does have it as an option. Also, I am not sure if they have certified techs on staff or not so I wouldn’t necessarily say they “should” know that the engine manufacturers want them on there.


I reached out and asked them and basically with a portable tank on a small outboard it is really not necessary...not harmful either of course. I have the additional advantage of very frequent use of my skiff and I only put Pure Gas in my tank with no ethanol. Kind of a belt and suspenders thing I guess, but I've wasted $40 and an hour of my time or worse things I guess.


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## Different Drummer (Dec 21, 2018)

I'll always have one. Experience convinces me.
But this raises a question for me. What was the sevice the engine required? Isn't one of the ETEC's claim to fame no service for three years?


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## tjtfishon (Feb 9, 2016)

Different Drummer said:


> I'll always have one. Experience convinces me.
> But this raises a question for me. What was the service the engine required? Isn't one of the ETEC's claim to fame no service for three years?


At the risk of hijacking my own thread into an ETEC service discussion...

Well, technically yes 3 years/300 hours. But in saltwater the manual does recommend several items on the schedule be done annually in saltwater. Anodes (2), grease fittings, Prop shaft splines inspect and lubricate.

As the first service I thought it prudent to have an expert look it over after full year and 100 hours. Kind of hard for me to pay someone else to do some very simple things I am more than capable of doing, but good piece of mind.

In addition to the few items listed in the manual, the dealer changed the gear oil, both gear oil washers (and one drain screw under warranty for being non magnetic or something...), replaced both anodes, and the under cowl fuel filter for a Seasonal/Mini service of 1 hour labor @$75/hr and $62 in parts... $137...so pretty reasonable.

I also asked them about impeller/water pump and they said typically needed annual or bi-annual so I had them pull the lower unit to inspect the water pump and replace the impeller so I had a good idea going foward. They found the impeller was in good shape but the water pump housing itself had some good grooves worn in it from sand going through so I had them replace the water pump kit rather than just the impeller. 2.0 hours labor or $150 plus $88 for the water pump kit. $238 for that but now I know I need to pull it and change it every year. They did keep all the parts and showed me everything that was repalced and why.

They also replaced an exhaust seal that was functioning but when they pulled the lower unit was too brittle to put back on under warranty...a frustrating thing I would have encountered doing it myself and needing to leave lower unit off while waiting for a part. $375 plus tax which is pretty much what an annual service on a 4s goes for around here but includes an oil change.

Plus they pick up and drop of at the boatyard where I keep my boat on the trailer so it is only at the dealer while they are working on it and not the 10 days out they are (even now in Feb) until they could start the job which would have cost me at least one weekend off the water.

I got an EMM report as well that is more interesting than useful, but something I couldn't do myself.


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## Different Drummer (Dec 21, 2018)

Interesting stuff on the EMM report. I bought my first ever new truck last year. I do the maintenance waaay sooner than recommended. Nothing wrong with that. Plus it is hard to teach the old dog new tricks.
Considering your diligence on all you mentioned I would think it would be a given on the fuel - water separator / filter install. My vote would be a quality filter followed immediately by a drainable separator like I have always had on my large inboards. But I tend to be a bit anal about things related to my engines.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Different Drummer said:


> Interesting stuff on the EMM report. I bought my first ever new truck last year. I do the maintenance waaay sooner than recommended. Nothing wrong with that. Plus it is hard to teach the old dog new tricks.
> Considering your diligence on all you mentioned I would think it would be a given on the fuel - water separator / filter install. My vote would be a quality filter followed immediately by a drainable separator like I have always had on my large inboards. But I tend to be a bit anal about things related to my engines.


There’s a place called Blackstone that you can send your fluid samples to and have them analyzed to see how long you can go between changes and they break down what parts are wearing to help you troubleshoot engine and gear failures before they happen. It’s more popular with the diesel and aviation crowd for obvious reasons. No sense in draining $100 worth of oil at 3,000 miles if it can go 5,000-7,000 before it begins to lose it’s effectiveness.


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## Different Drummer (Dec 21, 2018)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> There’s a place called Blackstone that you can send your fluid samples to and have them analyzed to see how long you can go between changes and they break down what parts are wearing to help you troubleshoot engine and gear failures before they happen. It’s more popular with the diesel and aviation crowd for obvious reasons. No sense in draining $100 worth of oil at 3,000 miles if it can go 5,000-7,000 before it begins to lose it’s effectiveness.


Blackstone is great. They keep a file that tracks your "trends" and also compares your analysis to the averages of others using the same engines and applications. 
I have used them for years on my diesels and aircraft engines. Their analysis and interpretation of same Will iallow potential issues to be dealt with before becoming catatrophic.
They do transmissions and gear assemblies as well as engines.


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