# Transom repair/replace?



## BlÖthar (Apr 30, 2020)

Hi folks, so the transom on my River Hawk B60 needs repair. The crack is growing slowly over a couple months. I don't generally haul it with the motor on (I did a few times when I was too exhausted to take it off after fishing, but Im not sure that is how this happened) but it looks to be getting worse, so I am guessing I have to get it fixed. How much does this kind of thing generally cost? I have a fiberglass guy who can come look at it but wanted you folks to take a look. I have no clue how much this kind of thing should run.


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## LowHydrogen (Dec 31, 2015)

BlÖthar said:


> Hi folks, so the transom on my River Hawk B60 needs repair. The crack is growing slowly over a couple months. I don't generally haul it with the motor on (I did a few times when I was too exhausted to take it off after fishing, but Im not sure that is how this happened) but it looks to be getting worse, so I am guessing I have to get it fixed. How much does this kind of thing generally cost? I have a fiberglass guy who can come look at it but wanted you folks to take a look. I have no clue how much this kind of thing should run.


First, post some pics.

A transom doesn't fail from a motor being on it going down the road, if you can trailer with the motor locked all the way down or all the way up that will help with torsional force but either way the force of shoving a loaded boat over waves is usually much harder on one.

You can save some money by doing the demo and prep work yourself. I would say in the neighborhood of $600 for a full transom job on a boat like that. You can prob do it yourself for $200 in materials depending on the tools and skills you have. Tools are expensive if you have nothing but if you have basic tools around the house you won't need much more than a saw and sander, knowledge is cheap around here, there are tons of skilled folks on here that will help give you advice.


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## BlÖthar (Apr 30, 2020)

LowHydrogen said:


> First, post some pics.
> 
> A transom doesn't fail from a motor being on it going down the road, if you can trailer with the motor locked all the way down or all the way up that will help with torsional force but either way the force of shoving a loaded boat over waves is usually much harder on one.
> 
> You can save some money by doing the demo and prep work yourself. I would say in the neighborhood of $600 for a full transom job on a boat like that. You can prob do it yourself for $200 in materials depending on the tools and skills you have. Tools are expensive if you have nothing but if you have basic tools around the house you won't need much more than a saw and sander, knowledge is cheap around here, there are tons of skilled folks on here that will help give you advice.


Ok thanks! Posted a couple pics


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## LowHydrogen (Dec 31, 2015)

Yep you got core issues.

Maybe my eyes are messing w/me but the shaft on that motor looks long as hell, what is your transom height? And motor shaft length?


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## LowHydrogen (Dec 31, 2015)

My advice for the transom is to get a grinder or one of those new oscillating saws and cut the transom skin from the inside so you can remove the core. This will save you having to tab in and do a lot of cosmetic work on the outside (it will stay looking factory or as/is).

Then I would plan on going back in with a full transom core instead of just the small reinforcement at the top they use from the factory. You'll want to use coosa, marine ply, or some other structural high density composite. If you go wood you'll need to use epoxy resin, if you go composite you can use poly resin.

Marine ply is cheaper than composite but the epoxy is expensive, composite is more expensive than ply but the resin is cheaper so pick your poison.

I will leave the glass recommendation to someone who knows more than me but I'm going to guess they recommend a 6oz tape layer/tab all the way around the perimeter/tab, and a layer of 1708+45 over the whole thing possibly doubled at the top.


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## LowHydrogen (Dec 31, 2015)

@yobata @bryson @JC Designs @firecat1981 have all completed projects from very large to very small and have a history of helping provide solid advice for glass related stuff.

They will also be a good resource for best way to mix and what to use for your fillets and bedding for the new core to the existing outside skin.


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

The advise given seams pretty spot on to me. The inly thing I will add is remove the skin and take care not to damage the core in case it proves to be healthy. If good, just properly fillet it and glass back with two layers 1708, first on the 0/90 axis 2nd on the 45/45 axis and she’ll be stupid solid. I believe they are just chopped in from factory, and could probably get away with 1208 but the weight savings on a part this size would be minimal.


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## BlÖthar (Apr 30, 2020)

LowHydrogen said:


> Yep you got core issues.
> 
> Maybe my eyes are messing w/me but the shaft on that motor looks long as hell, what is your transom height? And motor shaft length?


Its a standard shaft length, not long shaft. I think it is just how it looks in the pic.


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## LowHydrogen (Dec 31, 2015)

BlÖthar said:


> Its a standard shaft length, not long shaft. I think it is just how it looks in the pic.


Hell I need one of those cameras!


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## BlÖthar (Apr 30, 2020)

But when it stops pouring outside I will go out and double check the shaft length and the transom height.


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## NativeBone (Aug 16, 2017)

LowHydrogen said:


> Hell I need one of those cameras!


now that's funny right there


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

NativeBone said:


> now that's funny right there





LowHydrogen said:


> Hell I need one of those cameras!


We probably could all use a camera like that!


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

For our fish hero pics that is!


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## NativeBone (Aug 16, 2017)

Yeah SURRRRRRE


JC Designs said:


> For our fish hero pics that is!


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## LowHydrogen (Dec 31, 2015)

LMAO


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

What has been said is what your problem is.

I'll give you what I think is the timeline. The transom has some thru bolts or something mounted on the outside. These were done improperly and allowed water in. The owner noticed a small crack so he maybe fixed the crack or left it and put that metal plate over it. Now it is so weak the plate is useless.

Any boat that I have seen which has a U shaped plate like that has transom failure written all over it.

Anyway, listen to the guys above and you'll get it done and back on the water in no time.


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