# Anyone ever used Rhino liner paint for the bottom paint



## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

Hey everyone,
   Has anyone ever used the rhino liner paint on the bottom of the hull of the boat?

Here are reasons why I'm looking to use it.

1. I need something very durable and will not chip or whare down when I beach the boat or run accross the flats areas. 

2. I'm looking for answers on why  someone would not want to use it.

3. I have a 35 hp 2 stroke I'm putting on my 15 ft 1967 Super Skeeter and I don't think I'm worried about speed/drag.

Do I need to remove all the paint on the bottom of the hull (no Gelcot is on the hull) to apply?

I'm looking to roll it on with a paint roller.

Pics of hulls done with it.
Colors?


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## Gonefishin (Jan 10, 2010)

I have used it in a couple Jeep tubs, and on one old 16 ft. tiller steer aluminum v-bottom. The v was at the bow, the rest of the bottom was flat, similar to today's poling skiffs. The boat was maybe 8 or 10 years ago, or more. I gave it away a couple years ago and the lining was still intact. It added a little weight but nothing significant. Rhino Lining is a good coating when applied correctly.


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## rdiersing (Oct 7, 2012)

Sarasota lineX offers a keel package for boats which includes the v and 3/4 of the bottom of the boat for 500-600 so it must be a viable option. I will probably have my boat in for the service sometime in the spring.


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## CurtisWright (May 9, 2012)

I would use a high build two part epoxy primer, and a 2 part Urethane top coat.  You can spray or roll it on and it will look nice. It will also be pretty durable.  It will dry harder than linex or rhino. Spraying will look better than rolling.

Whatever you choose to do though remember that 90% of coating failures are due to poor surface prepairation.  Ask the manufacturer of the paint how to prep it.  If you cannot,  I would sand it really well with ~400Grit, then wipe it down several times with water, then wipe it down once with whatever thinner is compatible with the coating you get.


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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

Thanks for your help,
   I looked on the boat yard basics section of this site and several others had mentioned the 2 part epoxy paint as well. I'll most likely put a epoxy primer white and roll it on in the color I can get made up. The hull is fiberglass but has several coats of unknown paint on it. The boat is a 1967 Super Skeeter boat and I'm sure the bottom has issues. I might have to add a layer of glass on it just to add to my assurence it is sound.  

Thanks again


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## CurtisWright (May 9, 2012)

Epoxies arent UV resistant. If you go that route you will need to put a top coat of urethane that contains a UV blocker.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Mudd- paint it and use it. If the hull cracks sometime in the future, fix it then. But get out on the water.

For painting specifics; send a ping out to Paint it Black or Kreepa as they will tell you exactly what you need to do with the materials you choose.


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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

Thanks everyone,
I do have several choices on my plate. I'm in the process of repairing the transom. I'm doing alot of grinding and other things I can cut down the cost. I'm very fortunate to have my boat at a repair shop in the Orlando area where I'm very much apart of the repair. It cuts down the cost and I get to learn how things are manufactured at a real boat repair place.


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## TomFL (Oct 2, 2007)

I did a 13' in a graphite/epoxy mix that was pretty slick and tough. Think it was a RAKA product.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

I painted the inside of my beater boat then went fishing. Everytime I scrape up against something I dont care.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

I did the bottom of mine in graphite/epoxy like Tom. I've been hitting oysters and beaching for over a year and it has held up great!


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## chicubs9 (Oct 24, 2012)

yes I restored by grandpas 1955 Orlando Clipper and the whole boat is covered in it and it works great! easy to clean and you dont have to worry about it getting scratched by oyster beds or anything


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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

Does this come in different colors and can I roll in on?


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

Mudd if you are asking about the graphite then no, it's black cause the graphite powder is, and yes you roll it on. Mix 20-25% graphite powder with epoxy by volume and roll it on, then tip it with a brush.


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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

Darn! What is the cost of a gal of this stuff  approx.

Hey, I can paint over it with the 2 part epoxy color I want...correct?


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

Why bother painting over it, it is on the bottom of the boat just like any other bottom paint. If you really want then yes you can paint over it just like any other fiberglass. You won't need a gallon, a quart kit of epoxy will do more then enough and you just need a few ounces of graphite powder. So maybe $30-40 total. Buy a kit with medium or slow hardener, not fast.

Tip: for smooth results mix it all up and run it through a paint strainer before applying.


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## Dadvocate (Jun 26, 2011)

Just to add to what to what Firecat said. I used 9 oz of epoxy and 3 oz (volume) of graphite powder to coat my hull. Applied 3 coats. If you want to take a fieldtrip I live about 15 minutes away. Chopper  :'( is sold so I can buy and outboard now...yeah....


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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

Thanks for the help firecat1981. The reason I wanted to paint over the graphite/epoxy because the black color would not match the color scheme I have planed. Now I know I can paint over the black then my colors won't change.

LeakinLeana, I might take you up on that visit. I'm the guy you came out to see about building my johnson skiff in Lake Mary. Sorry to hear about your chopper. It looked real cool but a motor for your boat sound better.

Thanks to all who sent pics.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Boron Nitride is nearly identical to graphite except it will be white.


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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

Thanks, That would be better to paint over.
Boron Nitride- what is it


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

It is a compound that is very close in properties to diamond http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boron_nitride

It is also used as a bullet coating as it has 1/2 the coefficient of friction of graphite.


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## [email protected] (Nov 12, 2012)

0.5 micron 1 lb bag.... cheapest I have been able to find. http://www.lowerfriction.com/product-page.php?categoryID=2

$90.00

5 micron for $54.00.

You think if I mixed aniline dye with the epoxy and boron mixture I could get a nice sky blue?

But as epoxy has little for UV protection would some clear UV inhibitor coating be required?

20% Boron + 5% Aluminum oxide + some aniline dye on the hull?


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

You can add more Alumina if you desire a more abrasive coating. Could do away with the boron if you want a really tough coating.

Epoxy can be tinted to a small degree without affecting the curing properties. The UV issue is a personal choice. The minute epoxy cures it starts to yellow. Adding a tint will delay the process but will not stop it. Clear coating will also delay the process but once you scratch the clear film you are once again unprotected.

You have to decide if you want to be a slave to your boat. If it were mine I would make a mixture, tint it and be done. You should expect 10 years before it looks ugly again and by then you will either not have the boat or the entire boat will need work.


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## TTSam (Apr 24, 2009)

There was a topic started the other day on Steel Flex and that what I would use. Its crazy durable and easy to apply.(Roller). It also comes in many different colors and they also have a super slick Teflon version. Fasco Epoxy is the name to google.


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## AfterHours2 (Aug 2, 2010)

As far as durability goes, a good industrial 2 part epoxy should be all you need to coat the bottom. Here's why, I have been doing industrial floor coatings for many years now. I have yet to see the 2 part product I use lift, peel or separate from a properly prepped area. Mainly this coating is used in high traffic areas 24 hours after application. These are auto auctions where twice a week hundreds of cars are driven across its surface. The only reason for reapplication is it eventually loses its sheen which is perfectly normal. High strength, durability and longevity is what you will get out of a good true 2 part epoxy product. If applied in multiple coats, say 3, I would probably put it up against any graphite or comparable. Contact your local paint supplier, not Lowes or HD, and order a part a and b kit of their industrial epoxy. Devoe is the brand I use. Good luck and it can be tinted to just about any color other than pastel base..
I'm in Orlando and have an account with Glidden. I you decide to go the epoxy route, I can lead you in the right direction and get you a way better price on the product..


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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

Thanks, I have used a 2 part epoxy I got from a local but I'm intrested in others as well.


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