# Replacing Impeller on an '07 Mercury 25 EFI



## HighSide25 (May 15, 2007)

if the merc was strapped to a gheenoe you would get pics, and maybe even a loyalist to change it for you! ;D ;D ;D [smiley=1-whoops1.gif]


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## out-cast (Jan 27, 2009)

> if the merc was strapped to a gheenoe you would get pics, and maybe even a loyalist to change it for you! ;D ;D ;D [smiley=1-whoops1.gif]


That's good comedy.


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## iMacattack (Dec 11, 2006)

Go to your local library and check out a manual. My local library has one. 

Good Luck!

Cheers
The Capt.


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## rkmurphy (Nov 2, 2008)

Okay library didn't have it...

Any idea on how to disconnect the shift linkage on this beast? I can see where to do it...just not how.

Also, a dealership said that on a lot of the bigger 4 strokes (smallest he talked about was a 90hp), you have to drain the engine oil before pulling the LU. Does anyone think that is the case for this one?


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## out-cast (Jan 27, 2009)

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=267085
http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=318603
I'll keep looking for ya Ryan.


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

Since google books eliminated most of the previews I can't assist on this one RK.
You've already been through this on the last engine.
You need that manual or page copies to do it right.
Take a camera to the library, see if they have a manual as Jan suggested.
Sorry I can't do more.


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## rkmurphy (Nov 2, 2008)

Thanks out-cast and Brett.  I had such high hopes for getting this job done sans manual.  I guess I'm going to have to break and buy one 

Keep the help coming!! If I can go about doing this without spending any more money, that would be great.


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## iMacattack (Dec 11, 2006)

Go to the library... it's FREE!


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Check your PM. 

The shift linkage coupler is a clip. Use a flashlight and you will see a pin. Push the pin to the other side and then the top portion will simply flip up. To install, reverse the above.

It is not necessary to drain the LU...just don't tip it upside down. As I said in my PM's I scanned the instructions from the manual for you but you have not given me an email address so I can send it to you.


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## rkmurphy (Nov 2, 2008)

> Go to the library... it's FREE!


The libraries in the area don't have a manual for my year range. I'm guessing they don't carry them that new. 

Ducknut...we may not have the same type of linkage. Here's some pics of what I suspect I disconnect...just not sure how....:


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

WOW, that is different. From the pictures, it appears that there might be a set screw. Maybe a pin. My guess is a screw. Either way that is what needs to come out. If it is a pin I imagine Merc has a "special" tool for that. Call Dwight at Alafia Marina and ask him...he'll help you out.


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## kbuch312 (Feb 17, 2007)

Take a look at the other side of the engine. If it looks the same, it is likely a roll pin. The way to tell, is if it is hexagonal in shape. Not a roll pin, but a set screw. If the hole is round and you see a small split line in one spot. Roll pin.
Just push it through with a smaller diameter tool. 
It will likely take a slight amount of pressure, as it is spring loaded due to the split.
Go easy!!


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## rkmurphy (Nov 2, 2008)

It isn't coming out easy. I have to punch it out with a mini screwdriver and a hammer. I put some PB blaster on it with my finger and have been supporting the shift rod so it doesn't bend or anything. I called Piper's Marine and they were very helpful. They pulled their own manual from the shelf and, sure enough, it said to "punch it out".

I'll replace the pin with a stainless cotter pin to avoid future frustration...


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## noeettica (Sep 23, 2007)

You can't Beat a Proper Pin punch ...

Truust me ...


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

Be careful there RK, the shaft that you're trying to remove the pin from
goes through a seal into the gearbox. Banging on the shaft can damage the seal.
Somewhere in my tool collection was a homemade gizmo for pressing pins out with any banging.
It was composed of 2 pieces of steel, 2 nuts and bolts and a center punch set.
Each plate had 3 holes in it, the outside holes for the nuts and bolts,
the center holes for the pin to slide through and to hold the end of the correct diameter punch.
Tightening the bolts pressed the punch into the roll pin and out through the other side.


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## rkmurphy (Nov 2, 2008)

Okay I tried a lot of different strategies but, this was the only one that worked and seemed pretty safe.  I took some needle nose pliers and held them behind the shaft.  With the same hand, I held the mini screwdriver and hammered away.  I hammered with "low to medium" intensity until it was out enough to grab securely with the needle nose pliers.  Then, I twisted and turned it until it came out.  Yay!  

I then pulled the LU and pulled the water pump assembly.  The impeller is actually in good condition except a couple the "fins" or whatever you want to call them were facing the wrong direction.  Weird...

Anyhow...I wiped the driveshaft down with some PB Blaster and a paper towel and now I have to clean up the gasket surfaces.  Then I'm going to clean things up, put the new gaskets on, grease the bolts, and reassemble.  Hopefully, if all goes well, I'll be back on the water by Friday morning!

Thanks for the help all!

Edit:

This explains the need for a shop manual...

I was trying to pull off what I thought was the base plate of the water pump. I thought it was being stubborn so I slowly turned it until it came up.

Much to my surprise, this "base plate" had attached to it the oil seal for the drift shaft/LU bearing. Smooth move, Ryan...

So...I positioned it perfectly and pressed it back in all the way...gonna leave that one there next time :-[


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## rkmurphy (Nov 2, 2008)

Well please still read my above post but, I got everything back together and it works great! Going to test 'er out tomorrow and hopefully get some fish blood on 'er!


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