# May move up to bigger metal boat, SeaArk or Alumacraft



## Redbelly (Jan 23, 2016)

Where do you fish?


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

I fish out of Yankeetown and run a Seaark 1872 MVT tiller steer prop powered by an Etec 90. This is the only boat I've ever kept for more than a year or two, and I've owned a lot of boats. I consider it the ultimate rig for this area. 

I've also owned a few jets, but I found they were relatively slow and uneconomical compared to a prop and that the slight difference in draft makes little difference. In the summer, weed is a big problem for a jet. I think the OP is on the right track. It may sound like blasphemy, but I might even consider running without a tunnel just for the improved performance. No one around here who has any brains runs on plane anywhere that's not on a previously mapped out track, and a non-tunnel can run shallow enough to stay out of trouble on most reasonable tracks.


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## noeettica (Sep 23, 2007)

I have heard good things about Sea Ark 

Great warranty !

They don't just ship you a can of gel coat and tell you to fix it your self !!!


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## noeettica (Sep 23, 2007)

Quality for sure 

SeaArkBoats, a Correct Craft Company, share one goal; to build the toughest boat on the market. The SeaArk team is made up of generations and families of Master Craftsman who have obtained the skills and experience to make this happen. Built one at a time by men and women who share the love of the outdoors and understand that hunting and fishing are not just a hobby but a way of life. We understand the importance of only having to concentrate on tasting the sweet victory of a trophy catch or a limit and not having to worry with the durability of a boat. Even the untrained eye can see that SeaArk surpasses the competition by using superior parts in the construction, such as larger extruded caprails, heavier 3/16" extruded center keels, thicker aluminum construction, thicker tread plate floors, and oversized ribs. This is who we are. Our way of life. Join the SeaArk family and have a _Boat Built fora Lifetime_.


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## noeettica (Sep 23, 2007)

*Anybody else offer this ??? Buler ... Buler ...

LIFETIME WARRANTY AGAINST HULL PUNCTURE*

SeaArk Boats warrants, to the first retail buyer, its manufactured boats built after September 8, 2017, products against hull puncture*. Hull puncture is defined as penetration through the aluminum bottom or side plating caused by collisions with submerged objects, other vessels, or docking facilities during normal use of the vessel.*


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## BigEasy (Dec 17, 2016)

I spent a week in three SeaArk boats on the Wabash River for a work project a couple years ago. Those things were tanks, not real pretty or flashy, but solid assed performers.

There were owned but a commercial river construction/support business so they were not treated with kid gloves. The “captains” piloting them had nothing but good things to say about them.


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## shb (Oct 29, 2013)

Too bad someone doesn't make an aluminum skiff with a flats friendly hull.

(Quiet)


Simple, affordable, abusable. 

They'd own a good share of the mkt.


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## Guest (May 29, 2019)

shb said:


> Too bad someone doesn't make an aluminum skiff with a flats friendly hull.
> 
> (Quiet)
> 
> ...


Sabine!


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## Ben (Dec 21, 2016)

FWC has one down in the Pine Island area and that thing is bad ass. If I could fit one in my garage I would get one as soon as I could. Gets really shallow and would make an all around great inshore boat for the area.


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## shb (Oct 29, 2013)

Sabine?

*Tiller Package - $29,000*
*Console Package - $32,500*



*Not really any value there.*

*You can buy a heck of a nice Maverick, or Super Skiff for those prices.*


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## shb (Oct 29, 2013)

And still have incredible resale value.


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## Guest (May 29, 2019)

As a builder, I have to say the Sabine has value. They are priced with the market and are well made!


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

shb said:


> Sabine?
> 
> *Tiller Package - $29,000*
> *Console Package - $32,500*
> ...


Builders that give boats away don’t make it. Sabine doesn’t build production boats, they are custom aluminum skiffs with ONE PIECE caps. Comparing a Sabine to a jon boat is apples to oranges and NO you can’t buy a new Maverick or Superskiff for $30k.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

I saw an Express flats boat at the ramp Saturday, not a Sabine but looked pretty nice and looked pretty sturdy. had a regular Vee hull shape, not a jon boat or sled. don't know if they are good or bad but looked ok on a quick look.


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## jtf (Jan 16, 2014)

Planning on a hull that will work the northwest mountain rivers in NC, VA, TN. 

I sometimes fish the Pamlico/Albemarle and tribs, and out to Harkers/Cape Lookout. 

The shop that modified this 1648 is Mike Watson Welding in Bluff City, TN. Spoke with him this morning, he says he can get it set up with a jackplate and 70hp to run like a jet, caveat, it may take a few more bangs on the foot. 

The dealer says $5,400 on a heavy trailer, bare bones, no outboard. I'll put in a wood floor, well treated and easy to remove for repairs and cleaning. All I need extra is an in-deck 18gal fuel tank option. _I really like the cap rails._ 

Mike builds a very interesting tunnel, the bass tourney outlawed jets AND his tunnel design for props. His clients (pros) were catching too many fish because they could get where the others couldn't and the _sponsors/manufactures _got antsy. 

I'm not a faceboob member, but there are 400 pictures here: https://www.facebook.com/people/Mike-Watson/100000367116363


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## MRichardson (May 27, 2010)

I've been toying with the idea of a MV1872 bare hull and having a welder do the 12" gunnels/rod lockers, deck and then installing a half-tower console (like a Young Gulfshore 20 or Banshee Extreme) and poling platform. All in might be reasonable and definitely the best boat type for that area. 

When you hit limestone in a *$40K++ *Mav or Superskiff it's gonna hurt a lot more, cost a lot more, and take longer to fix than when you bounce off in a SeaArk.


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## Ckirk57 (Sep 27, 2009)

I’ve built a rock friendly polling skiff. SeaArk 1872 Jet Tunnel


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## jimsmicro (Oct 29, 2013)

^ that boat is the ideal rig for running the rock hell that is the area between Crystal River and Horseshoe Beach. I rock a prop tunnel myself. What I like about it is that you can afford to run a wider hull faster than you could with a jet. With a jet you need max HP, no question. Whatever the max is you need it. With a prop tunnel a 60 or 70 horse motor will do the job in most of the 1660/1860 size prop tunnel hulls. The downside is that it won't run as shallow. In this game of rock bottom inches matter. You will be amazed where you can go when the only limiting factor is the bottom of the boat dragging. You can get into and out of places most people will never get to go to.


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## Flyer (Mar 27, 2019)

Take a look at Extreme Boats. You choose the hull thickness .125 or .190! Same with side thickness and 24" height. You decide on tiller or sc and hull design ie MV and casting areas. I have only the website info - have not seen one in person. But it is impressive


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## noeettica (Sep 23, 2007)

So very true !

Take a look at Extreme Boats. You choose the hull thickness .125 or .190! Same with side thickness and 24" height. You decide on tiller or sc and hull design ie MV and casting areas. I have only the website info - have not seen one in person. But it is impressive


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

jtf said:


> Have been approached by several folks that asked about the 1648/jet in the barn. Wish it was an 1860 and I'm considering a prop tunnel. I know it's been discussed several times here, compare jet to prop tunnel.
> 
> The SeaArk dealer is closer by and honestly a bare bones hull/trailer is pretty reasonably priced, way less than I expected. What ever way it goes, it will be a tiller steer if the 1648 sells.


Might take a look at uncle J's custom aluminum boats. Built custom to customers specifications, marine grade materials plate n structural shapes. Heavy duty builder. I currently have a 18x60 with yamaha f70la.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

https://www.metalsharkboats.com/16resolute/


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## jtf (Jan 16, 2014)

Thanks for suggestions. However, None of the mod-vees are any better design or build quality than the SeaArk, which is available less than an hour away. If it needs to be bomb proof, it will have UHMW welded to the bottom. Done that. 

If I want a real metal sled, it will be a Koffler. Only $1200 to ship from OR, it would be my third. I can call Joe Koffler this week and it will be _special. _Not a mod vee jon. Don't want to spend that much doe. 

Eastern boat builders haven't caught on yet, my opinion after 30 years using the western sleds. A mod-vee jon is a mod-vee jon.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

I grew up on the southern Oregon coast. my dad had a beautiful aluminum drift boat we used to drift rivers like the sixes to steelhead fish. don't know who made it but it was a nice boat.


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## Matts (Sep 2, 2015)

The aluminum posted above is nice looking but not set up for optimal shallow water performance. You need an elevated transom or short shaft to optimize for the tunnel. I previously had a fully TX ready 1852 Weld Craft and it ran super shallow, could haul literally 4-5 guys and a dog, with decoys, etc but, and this is a big but........unless you buy a Sabine skiff, or similarly designed hull, you won't be poling an aluminum flat bottom jon boat that close to fish. Tried it for years and yes, it happened some but not worth the effort, if you really want to pole. I had rubber flooring, etc. No, you surely won't get a Maverick or Hewes for what Sabine prices. I think Brian has sent several boats to Florida so it's worth checking with him. Essentially, all these jon boats you all have posted have the advantages of extreme durability, ability to haul a load (flat bottom-great displacement) and being cost effective but coming from someone who owned one with every possible useful shallow water modification for 16 yrs, they just aren't poling skiffs. They can be poled but often times, you will be better off wading. If you just want a cost effective, durable boat. Buy a jon boat and slap a platform up there to allow you to pole a bit. Just don't have expectations that it's really going to get you close to fish. No bashing here. I love a well thought out jon boat and would do it again, for the right application. While I'm rambling, the sides on the boat above are great for bigger water but too tall for poling. Weld Craft lets you order shorter gunnels, which is a must for poling in the wind. 
Best,


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## Ckirk57 (Sep 27, 2009)

Matts said:


> The aluminum posted above is nice looking but not set up for optimal shallow water performance. You need an elevated transom or short shaft to optimize for the tunnel. I previously had a fully TX ready 1852 Weld Craft and it ran super shallow, could haul literally 4-5 guys and a dog, with decoys, etc but, and this is a big but........unless you buy a Sabine skiff, or similarly designed hull, you won't be poling an aluminum flat bottom jon boat that close to fish. Tried it for years and yes, it happened some but not worth the effort, if you really want to pole. I had rubber flooring, etc. No, you surely won't get a Maverick or Hewes for what Sabine prices. I think Brian has sent several boats to Florida so it's worth checking with him. Essentially, all these jon boats you all have posted have the advantages of extreme durability, ability to haul a load (flat bottom-great displacement) and being cost effective but coming from someone who owned one with every possible useful shallow water modification for 16 yrs, they just aren't poling skiffs. They can be poled but often times, you will be better off wading. If you just want a cost effective, durable boat. Buy a jon boat and slap a platform up there to allow you to pole a bit. Just don't have expectations that it's really going to get you close to fish. No bashing here. I love a well thought out jon boat and would do it again, for the right application. While I'm rambling, the sides on the boat above are great for bigger water but too tall for poling. Weld Craft lets you order shorter gunnels, which is a must for poling in the wind.
> Best,


This makes me laugh, I’ve owned 4 HB’s and one Maverick, I now run a SeaArk. I know the difference. Hull slap is not an issue for me. Is it there, yes sometimes but it’s not spooking all the fish away.


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## shb (Oct 29, 2013)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Builders that give boats away don’t make it. Sabine doesn’t build production boats, they are custom aluminum skiffs with ONE PIECE caps. Comparing a Sabine to a jon boat is apples to oranges and NO you can’t buy a new Maverick or Superskiff for $30k.




Don't be obtuse, I said "A heck of a nice Maverick, or Super Skiff for $30K", I didn't say anything about new.

https://www.microskiff.com/threads/2006-maverick-hpx-17v.65984/


Your defensiveness seems a little odd.

Do you sell Sabines?


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

shb said:


> Don't be obtuse, I said "A heck of a nice Maverick, or Super Skiff for $30K", I didn't say anything about new.
> 
> https://www.microskiff.com/threads/2006-maverick-hpx-17v.65984/
> 
> ...


You’ve been a member for over 5 years, have you ever seen me selling Sabine Skiffs?


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## jimsmicro (Oct 29, 2013)

Which is the bigger issue, hull slap, or being stuck outside on the flats because your poling skiff doesn't run shallow enough to get into where the fish are?


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## Boneheaded (Oct 4, 2017)

Hull slap over oysters, or pole in fear of scratching youre skiff...if you draggin bottom you aint poling stealthily. A jonboat will displace weight better and float shallower in most cases, Sabine dont count as jonboats, cool as they look face it guys its an aluminum Mitzi skiff.


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## jtf (Jan 16, 2014)

As for drafting/dragging, I plan to use a small set back jack plate. On the last metal jon I ran with a plate but no tunnel, it provided all the performance needed, went too fast in really shallow water. Had *major problems *with the manufacture refusing to fix broken rib welds. 

The most I expect to spend is $5,500 for hull and trailer, a 60-75hp tiller maybe $6,500, a good trolling motor and battery set-up about $2,000. It doesn't get much better fly/spin friendly than this rig. Just want to super-size to an 1860 tunnel prop.


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## Matts (Sep 2, 2015)

I never broke any welds with my Weld Craft and know many guys that had the same good luck. They even used to make a vented tunnel, if that helps. That hull, as well as price and craftsmanship were way above most of the other Jon boats. They are made in AR and can be custom ordered. 
Best,
Matt


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## MRichardson (May 27, 2010)

I've never really had that much negative experience with hull slap. Maybe in 10" of water on a flat calm day with no tide movement... but in all reality I have had similar success in alum and glass boats. Talking big bend, west coast and east cost (IRL). Draft, durability are much more important.

Edit: important to note that yes, *I* can tell the difference in the slightly tinny sound of aluminum hulls (without foam filler) versus glass. But it doesn't seem to matter as far as the fishing goes. I catch fish from both.


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## NoeWayJose (Dec 14, 2011)

Aluminum definitely the way to go !

My buddy ripped the bottom open on a chop strand hull :-(


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## jtf (Jan 16, 2014)

No dealers anywhere nearby for Weld Craft or the others. That's why the 1st post is about SeaArk and Alumacraft, does me no good if it's over an hour's drive. However, vented tunnel from Weld Craft is forward thinking. 

Have been reluctant to do so in other posts, tired of being "polite" today. The name of the horrible build quality and total a-hole jerks, including their lack of warranty obligation...1872 War Eagle!


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

all skiffs hull slap in certain conditions.


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## Guest (May 30, 2019)

jtf said:


> No dealers anywhere nearby for Weld Craft or the others. That's why the 1st post is about SeaArk and Alumacraft, does me no good if it's over an hour's drive. However, vented tunnel from Weld Craft is forward thinking.
> 
> Have been reluctant to do so in other posts, tired of being "polite" today. The name of the horrible build quality and total a-hole jerks, including their lack of warranty obligation...1872 War Eagle!


Ok, it appears you are set on alumacraft or sea ark which are both great boats for what they are. In that, I mean they are not the typical western aluminum hulls but are both substantially built and will serve well. Have not been on a tunnel sea ark but have rigged many alumacraft tunnels and they perform as expected with a well designed tunnel. They do slide a little, but again that’s expected of the hull design. Both will run in spit with jack plate and right prop. I say go with whichever hull you find you like best and the rest is a toss up.


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

I've got nothing. I thought this was going to be about heavy metal. I was going to suggest an all-time classic.


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## Guest (May 30, 2019)

Sublime said:


> I've got nothing. I thought this was going to be about heavy metal. I was going to suggest an all-time classic.
> 
> View attachment 76208
> 
> ...


You got another thing comin! HA!


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## Matts (Sep 2, 2015)

An hour away is too far?


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## MRichardson (May 27, 2010)

Lol. That's like 11 miles sometimes around this god-forsaken place (Orlando metro).


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

re-reading this post I guess he was just making a statement, not asking for advice as to what boat to buy.


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## jtf (Jan 16, 2014)

Thanks boatbrains, that is an answer to a clear question. I have a choice of two dealers and two hulls. Do not see a need and no desire to drive long distance. So it's apples to apples with the two hulls. They are within a hundred or so dollars of one another.


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## FishWithChris (Feb 6, 2019)

shb said:


> Too bad someone doesn't make an aluminum skiff with a flats friendly hull.





devrep said:


> I saw an Express flats boat at the ramp Saturday, not a Sabine but looked pretty nice and looked pretty sturdy. had a regular Vee hull shape, not a jon boat or sled. don't know if they are good or bad but looked ok on a quick look.



I have an Xpress 185 Skiff. It is not a traditional aluminum "mod-V" but a true flats skiff. Floats in 8" loaded and runs in less. Sharp entry, respectable flare to keep spray down, and hauls arse. 
I'd post a pic but I don't think I can (...yet). Do a quick google search and you'll see many pics of it. I love this dang thing.


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## MRichardson (May 27, 2010)

Here you go:


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## jimsmicro (Oct 29, 2013)

If they made that xpress in a tunnel prop or jet it would be better.


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## MRichardson (May 27, 2010)

Some folks don't want tunnel, draft at rest being more important than draft at 25-30 knts. I guess sponsons would make up for the cutout, in terms of the displacement. 

Chris, what is the draft of the boat at rest/on plane?


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

MRichardson said:


> Some folks don't want tunnel, draft at rest being more important than draft at 25-30 knts. I guess sponsons would make up for the cutout, in terms of the displacement.
> 
> Chris, what is the draft of the boat at rest/on plane?


This has been a topic that has been beaten to death and the common misconception is that a tunnel causes some huge gain in draft which just isn’t true. A standard sized tunnel will only lose 1/8-1/4” of draft. I did the math based off my Tunnel dimensions if you want me to post it. You could offset that in many ways (like going with a 2 stroke over 4 stroke).


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## shb (Oct 29, 2013)

FIshWithChris said:


> I have an Xpress 185 Skiff. It is not a traditional aluminum "mod-V" but a true flats skiff. Floats in 8" loaded and runs in less. Sharp entry, respectable flare to keep spray down, and hauls arse.
> I'd post a pic but I don't think I can (...yet). Do a quick google search and you'll see many pics of it. I love this dang thing.



How quiet is the hull when sneaking up on fish?


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Ok no response so for other’s viewing pleasure...not a copy and paste. 

 Tunnel Volume Calculation

A tunnel that is 3" deep at the transom and slopes down flush with the bottom that is 14" wide and 32" long has about 672 cubic inches of volume. A cubic foot is 1728 inches and can float about 62 pounds. 
672\1728 is ~0.38 so multiply 62x.38 and you get 23.56# loss of bouyancy. That is just a rough tunnel size and shape, most tunnels have sloped sides so that is even less volume lost. Disperse that along all that wetted area of a hull and the draft loss is miniscule (like 1/4" with a man on the bow when draft matters most). I can see if it is a 6" deep tunnel that is 48" long and 18" wide like some of the aluminum tunnel hulls but most skiff tunnels I have seen are not very big at all...


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

shb said:


> How quiet is the hull when sneaking up on fish?


I modified a 1976 1652 Polar Kraft mod v several years ago and made what I considered a decent poling boat. Not really a skiff but I sight cast many trout over 25” off it and no telling how many redfish, some teabagging them off the rod tip. With some foam board to kill the resonance an aluminum hull can be dead quiet. A couple of guys on here fished from it and would probably concur. You won’t make a bare bones tiller jon boat quiet unless you add something to kill the resonation of water hitting it from any side. Search my posts and you will se photos of it.


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## Guest (Jun 1, 2019)

To make a quiet hull, just buy the empty hull and throw about 25mils of your favorite bedliner on it!


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## FishWithChris (Feb 6, 2019)

jimsmicro said:


> If they made that xpress in a tunnel prop or jet it would be better.


I'm glad it's not a tunnel, more stable on turns and rides on rails. But it would be pretty sick!



MRichardson said:


> Some folks don't want tunnel, draft at rest being more important than draft at 25-30 knts. I guess sponsons would make up for the cutout, in terms of the displacement.
> 
> Chris, what is the draft of the boat at rest/on plane?


2-3 people at rest I'm sitting about 8"
Running, probably 6-7". Less with a 90 (rated for up to 115, which I have the 115 sho)



shb said:


> How quiet is the hull when sneaking up on fish?


the only thing quiter is probably your sabines and such due to their more dramatic flare.

I run 30-40 in a 1' chop without a care in the world. I've had it in 2's and she was fantastic. Incredibly stable due to it's wide beam... Not very tippy at all.
If I didn't live in an area that is surrounded with oyster bars and rocks that moved around on full moons... I'd have a fiberglass hull.


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## 1gunner (Dec 29, 2014)

Have you looked into Timber Creek, Prodigy and the aforementioned Uncle J’s?


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Chris M. will have a set of templates/drawings available for aluminum plate hulls.


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## jtf (Jan 16, 2014)

smackdaddy and boatbrains: I installed marine plywood, coated wood floors and will not want welded-in metal floor that is trouble to extract to get to fix a hull leak. This floor is in two pieces and turned out very quiet, thought about gluing foam to the underside between the ribs so it would be out of hull water.

The spray liner would be easy, but is it much trouble to clean-up to make a weld or patch? And I'll look for the foam pictures, if not could you post them?


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?t=29768


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Rivet the aluminum floor in and remove floor and foam board if you need to weld or repair. If you have a ribbed bottom the foam shouldn’t be submerged and it’s closed cell anyway so it won’t absorb water. I shot Tuffcoat on the entire cockpit and decks. I ran this hull a couple of years hard and loved it, just wanted to step up to a Maverick to guide out of. This boat is still fishing the LA marsh with my buddy Kelly that bought it a few years ago. We keep in touch and he loves it too even though it’s nothing fancy. It ran in 3” all day hull bumping sand bottom and when you’d look back there would be baitfish flipping on dry sand where it just passed over. I poled it all over with the same Stiffy Guide push pole I use now. Hull slap wasn’t an issue unless you poled directly into the ripples and even then the foam on the inside of the sides and floor killed the sound.


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## Guest (Jun 2, 2019)

The bedliner depends on brand/product used. I know liner xtreeme, raptor liner, al’s liner, and dominator liner stick to themselves really good so just stay with same product when doing a repair. Grind out the repair area, weld/repair, re spray/roll liner on repaired area.


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## jtf (Jan 16, 2014)

The last several posts have helped me get the 1648 jet hull close to finished. Have the ppg paint ready for the interior and picking up the front knee brace/leaning post from the machine shop this week. 

Now to sell this 1648 jet and move up a size or two to the next hull project.


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## MRichardson (May 27, 2010)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> This has been a topic that has been beaten to death and the common misconception is that a tunnel causes some huge gain in draft which just isn’t true. A standard sized tunnel will only lose 1/8-1/4” of draft. I did the math based off my Tunnel dimensions if you want me to post it. You could offset that in many ways (like going with a 2 stroke over 4 stroke).


Did not know that, never thought of it. Hadn't seen the discussions, just kind of accepted the belief as fact. Thanks for the edumacation!


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## jimsmicro (Oct 29, 2013)

Losing a quarter inch of draft to run 4 inches skinnier on plane is a no brainer to me. But I fish in places where 4 inches of draft is the difference between leaving your lower unit on the bottom and getting home.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

jimsmicro said:


> Losing a quarter inch of draft to run 4 inches skinnier on plane is a no brainer to me. But I fish in places where 4 inches of draft is the difference between leaving your lower unit on the bottom and getting home.


90% of the areas I frequently fish would be inaccessible with 4” more prop hanging below the hull so it makes sense. I’ve tried running a non tunnel skiff with no jackplate (last month) and it greatly limited where we could go unless you like poling a mile or two to get to an area to fish.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

I think the major loss of draft from a tunnel legend came from boats that had big wide and high tunnels running to or almost to the bow.


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## jtf (Jan 16, 2014)

https://www.bassmaster.com/slideshow/inside-tunnel-boats-defoe-and-friends

Use the arrows to move through the pics, #18,23,27,28 show an interesting prop tunnel design by Mike Watson in TN mountains. He set up my outboard jet hull, (not with a tunnel).


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

jtf said:


> https://www.bassmaster.com/slideshow/inside-tunnel-boats-defoe-and-friends
> 
> Use the arrows to move through the pics, #18,23,27,28 show an interesting prop tunnel design by Mike Watson in TN mountains. He set up my outboard jet hull, (not with a tunnel).


These are some of my people!


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## jtf (Jan 16, 2014)

Got to compare Alumacraft to Sea Ark side by side last week. The finish in Alumacraft appears nicer, gunnel rail accessory in Sea Ark makes it the winner. Dealer is close by too. 

Factory installs a CMC high speed jackplate. I'm leaning toward ordering all the "upgrades" from the factory, takes less time and they know their stuff. 

Jackplates are discussed here, but don't see the CMC reviewed. Any thoughts?


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

jtf said:


> Got to compare Alumacraft to Sea Ark side by side last week. The finish in Alumacraft appears nicer, gunnel rail accessory in Sea Ark makes it the winner. Dealer is close by too.
> 
> Factory installs a CMC high speed jackplate. I'm leaning toward ordering all the "upgrades" from the factory, takes less time and they know their stuff.
> 
> Jackplates are discussed here, but don't see the CMC reviewed. Any thoughts?


I’d highly recommend a Bob’s 4” over a CMC. I had one on my last boat, nothing but problems. Bob’s are just awesome.


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## Guest (Jul 1, 2019)

Bob’s hands down!


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## jtf (Jan 16, 2014)

Good to know, thanks. Talked with dealer/shop, they suggest Bob's as well and factory warranty says no more than 5" setback.
Now to sell this new jet jon 1648. As many smallmouth and muskie fishermen up here, should have a few calls on Craigslist.


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## Guest (Jul 1, 2019)

jtf said:


> Good to know, thanks. Talked with dealer/shop, they suggest Bob's as well and factory warranty says no more than 5" setback.
> Now to sell this new jet jon 1648. As many smallmouth and muskie fishermen up here, should have a few calls on Craigslist.


Since ya got it listed on CL, I’ll start the bidding with 4 chickens, 2 ducks, and a goat. Or... I have a slightly used Cub Cadet 54” rider that only needs a new seat and push rods to run like new. Let me know but don’t waste my time!


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## GG34 (May 2, 2014)

jtf said:


> Good to know, thanks. Talked with dealer/shop, they suggest Bob's as well and factory warranty says no more than 5" setback.
> Now to sell this new jet jon 1648. As many smallmouth and muskie fishermen up here, should have a few calls on Craigslist.


Alumacraft said that about the warranty?


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## jtf (Jan 16, 2014)

Sea Ark verbage warranty.

I like goats, except the mean billy's. They test my fencing, a goat thing. Had a herd of pretty nubians, the big goat, Bubba, learned to open the front door screen. Fortunately, he learned to let himself out.


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## Tin Ark (Jan 4, 2021)

Some good info, going forward plan on an 1872 or 2072 prop tunnel. New are $$$ so it’ll surely take some time and searching to find one. Had an 1872 non-tunnel with JP years back. Like a fool, sold the damn thing!


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## dam540 (Feb 11, 2021)

Ckirk57 said:


> View attachment 76106
> View attachment 76108
> View attachment 76110
> I’ve built a rock friendly polling skiff. SeaArk 1872 Jet Tunnel












Still building mine, where did you get that pole platform? Thanks


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