# So I've decided to do something about my wireing



## fishnpreacher (Jul 28, 2018)

Its not as intimidating as it looks. Start simple, one wire at a time. When you order or purchase your wire, get 30-50% more than you think you will need. Use waterproof conectors, and heat seals over that. If your present wiring is in a hidden chase, use the old wire to pull the new wire through. The wiring may be tied together in the chase. If so, you may have to pull it all out at once. Take your time, one wire or one circuit at a time. You've got this!


----------



## 56706 (Sep 27, 2020)

Hey man. I know i answered some questions on your other post about the light so I thought I’d jump in here

If you don’t have a lot of experience doing wiring, a boat is not the place to learn to do a complete re-wire in my opinion. A mistake can leave you stranded or worse yet, in The water with a boat on fire. 
I am currently rewiring a 2006 Ranger Ghost 169 with a ton of that spaghetti wiring. What started out small has grown bigger and bigger and between ordering new switch panels and fixing previous wiring mistakes and emailing companies about what a power pole or a jack plate draws, (previous owner had everything wrong) it’s become a VERY big project. So much so that I’m being extra cautious about it to make sure everything is right, and I have a fair amount of experience with boat wiring

Anyway, if you can afford it, it pays to have someone do it if you’re not sure IMHO

Or just start by learning on how to get that anchor light working....

Good luck whatever route you choose


----------



## 56706 (Sep 27, 2020)

Haha me and fishnpreacher were typing at the same time and have completely different opinions.


----------



## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

newskiffer said:


> Hey man. I know i answered some questions on your other post about the light so I thought I’d jump in here
> 
> If you don’t have a lot of experience doing wiring, a boat is not the place to learn to do a complete re-wire in my opinion. A mistake can leave you stranded or worse yet, in The water with a boat on fire.
> I am currently rewiring a 2006 Ranger Ghost 169 with a ton of that spaghetti wiring. What started out small has grown bigger and bigger and between ordering new switch panels and fixing previous wiring mistakes and emailing companies about what a power pole or a jack plate draws, (previous owner had everything wrong) it’s become a VERY big project. So much so that I’m being extra cautious about it to make sure everything is right, and I have a fair amount of experience with boat wiring
> ...


I got his back and am only a phone call away, same goes for every member on this site... even if I don’t like’em personally, I’ll still lend a hand! @permitchaser, if ya don’t have my number... send me a pm and I’ll get it to ya!🤘🏻👊🏻


----------



## 56706 (Sep 27, 2020)

Ya I know everyone is helpful on here. If he was closer to Jacksonville I’d help him with the re-wire. It was just my opinion because he has had some difficulty with getting his anchor light working. I don’t remember what kind of boat he has or know how much wiring he has to do, I just know it can get complicated depending on the situation


----------



## BrownDog (Jun 22, 2019)

You can do it, the wiring itself is pretty straight forward. Also unless you are messing with the engine harness there should t be too much that can strand you on the water.

first step is to rip everything out, Do not try to clean it up or re use existing wires, then put your components in (fuseblocks, bus bars etc) and run the new wires one at a time.
It’s not super complicated just time consuming.


----------



## Steve_Mevers (Feb 8, 2013)

It is not really a hard job, just time consuming. Use nothing but marine tinned wire, Accon connections and good heat shrink tubing that has adhesive in it (Accon or 3m). I like using a buss bars rather than connecting the switch wires directly to the load (light, pump, etc...) If you do it right it will last a long time.


----------



## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

Or, come to Florida for a week with supplies. We’ll go through it together in a day and fish the rest of the week!🤘🏻


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

I knew I get some help. I also want to change the fuse panel from glass tubes 
I’ll post pictures of my mess
Thank everyone for your help


----------



## 99Whip (Oct 13, 2020)

Lots of good suggestions above. 
Don't know what model skiff you have but I did a rewire a couple of years ago. First thing I did was diagram the existing wiring layout and labeled everything on the drawing, color coded, etc. On that same diagram I also included what amperage was required for the component. I found for example, that the previous owner used 20amp fuses to run things like 4amp Nav lights, etc, which is a problem waiting to happen. This is another great reason to undertake the job even if it seems a little intimidating. You will have a solid understanding of your rig's wiring system, who knows you might uncover and correct problems that are already exist. 

I found having a diagram helps create a plan, from there you can work methodically at it, helps you get comfortable with it also. Also, as others have said getting good components, heat shrink connectors, crimping tool, etc, is important. Wiring job is not the one to cut corners on, IMO.


----------



## Gogittum (May 24, 2020)

+1 on doing a color coded, full sized diagram. Colored felt-tips are cheap.

When I installed a new fish finder on my boat, the opening in the back (stern side) of the small center console was too small to really work in and reach up, so I finally removed the mounting screws and tipped it over on its' face, then worked thru the bottom. WOW, what a difference. Laid on my belly, head up and was "much" more comfortable, could reach better and did a much better job.

The original wiring was a mess and this made it much easier to straighten that out, too. Do it all while you're at it.

Something I think would work for a boat - when I re-wired the engine compartment of a '79 Saab Turbo that I restored, I took the old, brittle wiring harness and stapled it to a sheet of plywood, all nice and neat and spread out, then copied it wire for wire. When done, it went into place quickly and easily, and worked perfectly.

I've always done things the old way - replace one wire at a time so's you know you're right, but the above might be food for thought.

Buy a heavy duty crimping tool/pliers and put your shoulders into the crimps. I've done a huge amount of wiring in my time, as a business, and by far the most common problem I've seen is loose connectors that weren't crimped properly.


----------



## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

I've wired and rewired a lot of skiffs. The one most common thing I've discovered is that most original wiring jobs are terrible and use relatively cheap materials. Unless your skiff is one of the few quality exceptions, I'd plan on rewiring everything with proper wire sizes, colors, buss bars and connectors. A total rewire done right is not typically a one day job, particularly if you have to snake wires thru restricted areas or untangle knots of old wire. Sometimes just removing old wiring can take the better part of a day. (sometimes you can use the old wire to pull the new wire, but many times you won't get that lucky) You need flexibility, long arms, the ability to hang upside down for extended periods and plenty of patience. You'll need a variety of snakes, flashlights, head lamps and mirrors and good wire tools.

Bottom line: It ain't easy, but it is possible. If you have doubts about your ability, mentally or physically, either leave things as they are or hire a reputable professional


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

JC Designs said:


> Or, come to Florida for a week with supplies. We’ll go through it together in a day and fish the rest of the week!🤘🏻


What city do you live in?


----------



## Gogittum (May 24, 2020)

Hoooo.....makes me wish I live closer. I'm sure I could find "something" to re-wire.


----------



## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

permitchaser said:


> What city do you live in?


Homosassa!🤙🏻


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Well here is what I am scared of, this is what is coming out of the chase. The box looking thing is the onboard charger for my 2 battery, 24 V system


----------



## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

permitchaser said:


> Well here is what I am scared of, this is what is coming out of the chase. The box looking thing is the onboard charger for my 2 battery, 24 V system
> 
> View attachment 157814


Yeah, whole lotta butt connectors in that birds nest! I’ll start by saying...

(1) isolate every circuit/ accessory such as the on board charger. Roll up wires and tape with blue tape and label with a sharpie.
(2) get all that mess out of your way!

(3) several of them wires appear to be engine harness wires johnson/evinrude or mercury?
You can use the old wires sometimes and sometimes not so the advice about a fish tape is spot on! I always buy some decent small diameter rope 1/8” or so and when I pull wires out, I pull the rope with it! This allows you to get the old all out of the way while having a pull for the new. I also attach a fresh piece when I pull the new and leave it. I’ll try to draw you up a generic schematic in the next couple days to help with fusing and switch panel stuff. Just tell me what all accessories you have, James


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

The engine is has a Johnson serial number but Suzuki cowling and lower
James I'll PM my number and we can talk tomorrow


----------



## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

I bet it still has the Johnson controls and ignition harness. The Johnson 4strokes were Zukes with a harness adaptor and different shift/throttle attachments.


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

JC Designs said:


> I bet it still has the Johnson controls and ignition harness. The Johnson 4strokes were Zukes with a harness adaptor and different shift/throttle attachments.


Great...I bought the engine in FL and my mechanic installed it. So what ever came with the engine is what he used


----------



## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Buy different colored duplex wire that way only you will never guess what wire powers what.

Leave 6" at each end so if they ever corrode you can repair them with ease. (Yes, only use tinned wire)


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

I looked up heat shrink with solder connectors today. Talking to JC tomorrow. First thing I'm going to do is get that nav light working then take my time to get a plan together


----------



## Gogittum (May 24, 2020)

Frequently with a tangle like that, start pulling the excess slack out of the wires while separating them and it becomes much easier to see what you've got. The wiring diagram remains a good idea, as does the idea of leving 6" excess on each wire. If JC is going to work with you on it, all this will be moot..


----------



## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

permitchaser said:


> Well here is what I am scared of, this is what is coming out of the chase. The box looking thing is the onboard charger for my 2 battery, 24 V system
> 
> View attachment 157814


That looks exactly like what I end up with when I use a baitcaster!


----------



## whoislang (Jul 29, 2020)

Read my thread, just rewired my entire skiff. 2007 B2. Pretty sure you were commenting back and forth on there. PM me if you have qs about how I did anything. I have a ton of pics and details.
GL


----------



## 99Whip (Oct 13, 2020)

That is a rats nest for sure. When it's all said and done, you'll know your wiring system inside and out. After I was done with mine, I re-did the wiring diagram so I had a good clean copy with color coding to match, laminated it and keep a copy in the a garage cabinet with other boat related docs. Can always reference it later if/as needed. Receiving plenty of good tips/assistance, good luck.


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

99Whip said:


> That is a rats nest for sure. When it's all said and done, you'll know your wiring system inside and out. After I was done with mine, I re-did the wiring diagram so I had a good clean copy with color coding to match, laminated it and keep a copy in the a garage cabinet with other boat related docs. Can always reference it later if/as needed. Receiving plenty of good tips/assistance, good luck.


Thank you,
I have my diagram in my head starting with the buse. First I'm pulling the nav light wire while pulling a new tinned duplex through. Fix that first then go fishing


----------



## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

How 'bout working on some spelling too?


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

I am just getting into my wiring. Ugh . It sucks. Bundles of wires going nowhere. I need to figure this out or pay a pro but damn expensive


----------



## fishnpreacher (Jul 28, 2018)

Kevin Booker said:


> I am just getting into my wiring. Ugh . It sucks. Bundles of wires going nowhere. I need to figure this out or pay a pro but damn expensive


Expensive because it's worth it!
I just got through rewiring my Carolina Skiff this summer. It is time consuming and expensive if you use quality material, but worth every dime.


----------



## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

Kevin Booker said:


> I am just getting into my wiring. Ugh . It sucks. Bundles of wires going nowhere. I need to figure this out or pay a pro but damn expensive


Bring it on over brother! I’ll hook ya up!🤙🏻


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

I might take you up on that. It is tight in there. There are wires everywhere. They left a lot of old wire in there and just capped it. So now I need to verify and pull those out. I bought the Togglers for the console and rebuilt the steering helm that was on the new console but the wiring is not my thing. I’m good mechanically and with technology but I’ve never dealt with electricity. I’ve seen enough burned out hulls to know I can’t wing it. Watched one burn down to the waterline last year in St. Augustine.


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

DuckNut said:


> How 'bout working on some spelling too?


darn spellchecker, fixed it


----------



## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Kevin Booker said:


> I might take you up on that. It is tight in there. There are wires everywhere. They left a lot of old wire in there and just capped it. So now I need to verify and pull those out. I bought the Togglers for the console and rebuilt the steering helm that was on the new console but the wiring is not my thing. I’m good mechanically and with technology but I’ve never dealt with electricity. I’ve seen enough burned out hulls to know I can’t wing it. Watched one burn down to the waterline last year in St. Augustine.


Bring it over Kevin, I'll help you and @Megalops can watch us work while drinking beer.


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Kevin Booker said:


> I might take you up on that. It is tight in there. There are wires everywhere. They left a lot of old wire in there and just capped it. So now I need to verify and pull those out. I bought the Togglers for the console and rebuilt the steering helm that was on the new console but the wiring is not my thing. I’m good mechanically and with technology but I’ve never dealt with electricity. I’ve seen enough burned out hulls to know I can’t wing it. Watched one burn down to the waterline last year in St. Augustine.


I feel your pain😆


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

DuckNut said:


> Bring it over Kevin, I'll help you and @Megalops can watch us work while drinking beer.


When I get time I need to take you guys up on that. As easy(expensive though) as it is to have it done. I’d much rather do myself so I know what wires go where to head off future problems. So need:
12-14g tinned marine
Ankor duplex
Butt splices 
Terminal connectors
Di-electric grease
I have 2 newer (blue sea?) fused busses
Drinks(to order)

it’s the time to do it since I am changing the Console

on a side note, would it look bad if I Painted the console instead of gel coated it like the boat? I don’t really have a way to gel the console myself and color matchIng sucks. Thinking about putting seadek/lamdek on the floor maybe a little on top but not fully so it would not be right next to Gelcoat.


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Paint the darn thing it will match and look better


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

permitchaser said:


> Paint the darn thing it will match and look better


Yeah. I was hoping to hear that


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Talked to JC he's been a lot of help. Per his suggestions and some YouTube watching I ordered some duplex, 14 gauge, red/black wire and some heat shrink, solder and glue wire connectors


----------



## Megalops (Oct 23, 2011)

DuckNut said:


> Bring it over Kevin, I'll help you and @Megalops can watch us work while drinking beer.


Or bring my Dorado too! Hahahaha


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

i received these form Amazon today. Much better than twisting wires, liquid tape then shrink wrap
I looked at videos so you put 2 ends of stripped wire in, crossing then heat the ends first to seal so the solder doesn't run out then heat the solder and blue glue... Boom!!!


----------



## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

Kevin Booker said:


> When I get time I need to take you guys up on that. As easy(expensive though) as it is to have it done. I’d much rather do myself so I know what wires go where to head off future problems. So need:
> 12-14g tinned marine
> Ankor duplex
> Butt splices
> ...


Get with me sometime, we’ll get a list together, then plan a weekend! You can bring the boat over and we’ll go through it together. That way, you know what ya have and I can make sure it’s done right!!!😎 You can tip the tech after the job is done. Looks like I’ll be accepting baby diapers, formula, etc... soon!🤣


----------



## Rich11111 (Jun 6, 2018)

A few of the things that I've learned on this forum is not to solder wire connections on a boat, use tinned wires and connectors. After learning that i ordered from amazon a crimper (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q32PYP3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
and marine connectors that have adhesive in the heat shrink
(Heat Shrink Butt Connectors — Insulated Waterproof Wire Connector Terminals 200 PCS Electrical Connectors Kit Marine Automotive Wire Crimp Terminals Butt Splice Set 3 Colors 10-12 14-16 18-22 AWG: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific)
I understand that soldiered electrical connections crack at the soldier point. Rather than test the information I have crimped all connections that i have had failed on my 2007 Beavertail. I have yet to find any soldier on the boat which agrees with what i've read on this board.


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

I think I’m going to use the solder connectors then slide heat shrink over it to make sure. But if their solder and adhesive how do they come apart???


----------



## Snookdaddy (Jan 5, 2008)

I'm not going to read through every post, but use the following and you will have no issues.

1) Tinned wire sized properly for the application.

2).Dielectric grease on every single connection. 

3) Heat shrink connectors with heat shrink tubing on top.of that. 

Follow these rules to.a "T" and you will not have any issues.

Every component on the Challenger that I restored and rewired 16 years ago still works perfectly.


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Snookdaddy said:


> I'm not going to read through every post, but use the following and you will have no issues.
> 
> 1) Tinned wire sized properly for the application.
> 
> ...


Thank you Snook
Did you see the solder and glue shrink connectors above. I read a lot of positive reviews and Tinyboat.com recommends them. Don’t see how they would come apart sitting on a boat


----------



## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

I've used the solder & seal connectors frequently and always had good results. If done right the joint is encapsulated and sealed in plastic and is water tight. I use a heat gun to melt the solder and glue simultaneously as well as shrink the plastic. It's a little anal to shrink wrap over a solder & seal connector.


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Vertigo said:


> I've used the solder & seal connectors frequently and always had good results. If done right the joint is encapsulated and sealed in plastic and is water tight. I use a heat gun to melt the solder and glue simultaneously as well as shrink the plastic. It's a little anal to shrink wrap over a solder & seal connector.


Thank you Vertigo I plan on using the ones I have. I still have to strip both ends but no more twisting or liquid tape. It’s going to be easier to re- wire my trailer


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

So the wire arrived today from Bestboatwireing.com
Don't get it form them Amazon is a lot cheaper for the same thing
Duplex 14 gauge Red/black, 100 ft.
Going to replace the wire to my white nav light tomorrow


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

I thought I would have to pull wires but found my mechanic ran new wire to the battery compartment connected to the old wire. So I took out all the “97 copper and replaced with new duplex, 14 gauge. Use my new glue solder shrink connectors. Oh, the nav lights work 
one more thing that's my bird dog in the background pm if someone want to trade a Tarpon, Permit, albie or A J trip on fly for a quail hunt here in Georgia pm me


----------



## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

jackson man said:


> Are you breeding????


BRED! I called @SomaliPirate for some pro tips and he was right!🤣🤣🤣


----------



## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

jackson man said:


> Congrats! Any details to share?


She’s pregnant, and so far the baby is growing good! That’s all that matters to me! Unless you want the how it happened details? Ok, so about 12 weeks ago I came home feeling a little spunky...😉


----------



## Water Bound (Dec 12, 2018)

Congrats man!!! That’s awesome!




JC Designs said:


> She’s pregnant, and so far the baby is growing good! That’s all that matters to me! Unless you want the how it happened details? Ok, so about 12 weeks ago I came home feeling a little spunky...😉


----------



## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

Water Bound said:


> Congrats man!!! That’s awesome!


Thank you


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

I replace all the wire to my white nav light and the light stayed on no matter the position of the switch. So I sent a text to JC. He said I had reverse polarity, who knew. I made a guess at the hot buse and was wrong. JC going to be sorry he offered help. I mean I can connect wires but don't know what they do
On another subject as I was following wires under my console I pushed some wires back I found my Suzuki engine hour counter. It looks like it's hooked up, I'll be able to tell next time I crank the engine, by the way it said 257 hours
Then there's a shelf under my console where the radio sat, radio was toast and gone a long time ago. It looks like a glass over wood shelf with a metal strip on the front. I can't tell if it's for support or what but I would have a lot more room if it were gone


----------



## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

Not reverse polarity. Wire on wrong terminal.


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Today I was in Walmart so I needed zip ties. Found a pack of different colored ones that looked neat, so I got them. Thinking of using different colors for different wires to switches


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

JC Designs said:


> She’s pregnant, and so far the baby is growing good! That’s all that matters to me! Unless you want the how it happened details? Ok, so about 12 weeks ago I came home feeling a little spunky...😉


Congratulations!! If it’s a girl, I have all the princess clothes and toys you will ever need. Really I do have a ton.
Just got my connectors and ring terminals.I got the second console faired and will do one more run before prime and paint then I am ready to wire. If some of the wiresuntangled from the bilge area but figured I’d wait to tackle the console as one. I need to go through and label the wires


----------



## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

Thank you! And awesome!🤙🏻


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Congrats JC. You've been a lot of help
went to my local marine mechanic and bought a new switch, rubber cover and a ground buse.
I'm taking my old nav light switch off and replacing all wiring. Sent my diagram to JC who okayed it


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Arrived home from quail hunting with my grandson and thought I'd start the project of putting my nav light switch in. My plan is to work on it tomorrow morning but I thought I'd take a look in my front hatch at the shark eyes wiring. Good for me there's still enough red and black wire on them (green/red) to attach the new wire. Then I found a PVC pipe that was glassed in going down my starboard side that ran from that hatch down the side of the boat for 8-10' to the battery compartment and nothing was in it. My former boat mechanic felt like running wire down the side of the boat behind the gunnle.
So I tried a piece of bamboo to go down that tube but no Bueno. Then I just fished the 14 gauge wire down, twice. So now I have all the wire run for the two front nav lights to the battery compartment tomorrow I have to run the red wire through the chase that run from the battery compartment to under the console where the new switch will go. I got just an off and on switch
I know you guys would have this done in an hour but I'm just learning


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Started my wiring by working on one Switch found my engine timer that wasn't connected


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Man wiring is PITA. The most time I spent today was trying to pull wires through the under floor chase. The biggest problem was the steering goes through it and I had to wiggle it to try to work wires through. My best luck was to find a wire under the console that has been cut from the old switch. I started early this morning and had to stop cause of rain. I had tools all over the boat.
My biggest problem now is I had a lot of wire left over at the battery compartment so rather than have all that in there I thought I'd cut the excess and splice in. Well after I cut it I forgot to mark which was the left or right nav light. I had connected all the ground wires and fished all red wires through the chase and had a big loop of wire coming from the bow. I have wired and zipped up the front red/green
I have one more red to run from the back white light but haven't figured how I'm getting through the chase since I ran out of cut wires under the console.


----------



## fishnpreacher (Jul 28, 2018)

If you have to, you can use one of your new wires to pull in a string or strand of old wire, then use the string or wire to pull 2 wires back through to get another wire to your back nav light. Pulling wires can be a witch with a capital B.


And to quote the good Capt.."Aren't boats fun?"


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Can't do that cause the wires I pulled in are red and

switch I cut out and there should be more wires I can use. I am at a stopping point now because the new switch I bought has a neck that is too short compared to the old one. So I ordered a longer neck one from my new marine mechanic


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Went to Harbor Freight today to see if I could find more wiring stuff. Found this set for $6. I can’t get to much shrink wrap


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Today I arrived home with enough daylight to do some work on my wiring. Found a lose wire, followed it back to my aireator. So I decided to use it to pull the last wire through and later re-wire my aireator. The wire to it where copper and about 5 years old, when I strip the cover off the bare wire is brown not copper so it's time to replace those wires. I can't believe I've already used a 100' roll of 14/2 tinned wire. I ordered another 50' that should be plenty because I don't have to run wires to the front of the boat anymore.


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Wired up the new nav light switch per my diagram the my mechanic drew an JC approved. Then turned it on...crickets nothing. I had twist wired all my lights just in case. I didn't want to connect with shrink until I was sure. Now I'm going to take a 12v boat battery out and run some test to see if it's a bad switch or I don't know what I'm doing


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Not that you asked but.
Since it seemed no power was getting to my switch, I thought why not connect the positive buse to the battery. I was not getting anything from my meter putting black on the ground buse and red on positive buse, no reading. So I ran a wire from the positive buse and when I went to put it on the + battery post,sparks, so the buse was getting power. Then I took the supply red wire and put it on + battery no lights. So I brought my marine battery out with a wire off the -and+. I disconnected all red wire from the switch, all black wires are on the - buse, and ran the lights directly to the battery. Boom all lights work. So all those new wires I pulled worked. Now I need the switch to work. I even tried another new switch I had
So I'm waiting for my mechanic to call back
Aren't boats fun!


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

I worked on my nav lights today as noted above no power was gauged at the switch. So I connected the + wire directly to the cranking batery...boom! The lights came on, well 2 lights came on, white and green. Red did not come on even though it worked last week. So I re- wired the red light then nothing. The wire to the battery was lose. So I ordered a battery buse, that's the ticket!


----------



## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

@permitchaser 

You're making headway.


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

So getting closer to starting. I have most parts. I need some pos. wire still need to call the rec. guys. does this seem about right? Haven't started because I work too much and I am changing the console. That needs done before/with wiring so I can add Seadek/LAM/flex(after researching different thread). I also need to build a wall to separate storage compartment from wires and to mount wiring on. I have a bunch of Ancor duplex so I could put neg bus in console or battery in the console.


----------



## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Kevin Booker said:


> View attachment 161819
> 
> So getting closer to starting. I have most parts. I need some pos. wire still need to call the rec. guys. does this seem about right? Haven't started because I work too much and I am changing the console. That needs done before/with wiring so I can add Seadek/LAM/flex(after researching different thread). I also need to build a wall to separate storage compartment from wires and to mount wiring on. I have a bunch of Ancor duplex so I could put neg bus in console or battery in the console.


An easy way is to run all the wires from the item into the console and leave a couple extra feet. Then hook one wire at a time to a switch and then attach all the negatives to the buss. I don't like using a POS buss (just more connections to fail.

Then on your panel are you using resettable breakers?

IF you plan on using a NEG buss, why are your bow lights not run through it and neither is the Helix?

Not an expert on diagrams but you need a NEG going from NEG buss to panel and a jumper to each switch.


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

DuckNut said:


> An easy way is to run all the wires from the item into the console and leave a couple extra feet. Then hook one wire at a time to a switch and then attach all the negatives to the buss. I don't like using a POS buss (just more connections to fail.
> 
> Then on your panel are you using resettable breakers?
> 
> ...


I have a negative buse that all the nav lights black wires go to. Then all red wires go the the switch then I run a red wire to the switch that is connected to the positive buse on the post of the crank battery


----------



## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

DuckNut said:


> An easy way is to run all the wires from the item into the console and leave a couple extra feet. Then hook one wire at a time to a switch and then attach all the negatives to the buss. I don't like using a POS buss (just more connections to fail.
> 
> Then on your panel are you using resettable breakers?
> 
> ...


Yes, and bilge ground direct to battery always!


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

After I get this ready I really need to get with together with you, Duck and JC and wire it up. Baby gear and beer on me or what ever you fancy


----------



## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

permitchaser said:


> I have a negative buse that all the nav lights black wires go to. Then all red wires go the the switch then I run a red wire to the switch that is connected to the positive buse on the post of the crank battery


I made my reply to Kevin and his drawing.


----------



## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Kevin Booker said:


> After I get this ready I really need to get with together with you, Duck and JC and wire it up. Baby gear and beer on me or what ever you fancy


I just loaded up his truck last weekend with baby stuff so I guess that leaves beer. Sounds like a plan.


----------

