# My Micro Project



## Bush_Whacker (Jul 8, 2009)

The boat is a 1976 14' Crawford that I picked up a couple of months ago. Boat motor and trailer for under $400. The motor is only a 6hp 'rude, which will certainly get swapped for something a little bigger, but it does run good. So, it may stay on for a little while.










Hatch/Lids will be re-done........









I finally got around to doing some work last weekend, getting some of the wood cut for the front deck. 

Could I get away with not using the upright pieces?









I will be using the uprights at this end for attaching a front panel....not yet cut.......









With some help from JRL, DuckNut and twitch I was able to get started on the epoxy work this weekend.

Structural pieces after the first coat of epoxy...









Front deck after first coat......









This morning I was able to get a second coat on all the wood. I also removed the rub-rail so the deck will be glassed all the way to the edge. Then the rub-rail will either be put back on, or replaced with a new one. I have always liked the ones with the rope inserts.

Pieces in with thickened epoxy (I know, some of my fillets are bad)......









Checking to make sure the pieces stay flat with the sides....









After an hour or so, they were glassed......









Yes, the swivel mount will be removed.....










After a little more sanding, I was hoping to set the deck on tomorrow. I was planning on filleting the red area in the picture below to keep the slope gradual for the glass. What would be the best glass for the deck?











More to come.


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## kwhite108 (Apr 12, 2011)

That will be a sweet little rig when you are done!

Tip for fillets: Use the back side of a plastic spoon to shape the fillet. It makes getting a uniform curve as easy as eating a bowl of soup.

About the glass for the deck: Do you intendd to paint it with some sort of non-slip? If so you will want a reasonably smooth surface in the glass. In order to avoid endless hours of fairing I'd pick something like a 1-3 oz plain weave.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

Looks like it will be a fun little rig when done. There are 100 ways to do fillets, here is how I do mine.
http://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1297188235/6


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## Bush_Whacker (Jul 8, 2009)

Go Fish... yeah, I was thinking of a non-skid type paint. Thanks fir the glass info. And thanks firecat for the tip on fillets. Maybe part of my problem was using the 403 filler.

Any thoughts on me not using the two forward upright structural pieces?

Also, anyone have any experience with West Systems SIX10 two-part epoxy. I picked up a tube of it, and was thinking of using it to set the deck.

I was hoping to get the deck on tonight, but I remembered I need to run a chase tube up to the bow for wiring. I may not though. Really the only thing up there will be the bow lights. And I saw a members boat on here where he had the red/green lights in his grab-bar. That looked interesting, and something I may do.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

> Maybe part of my problem was using the 403 filler.


I use the microfibers to add stregnth for bonding, but not usually for fillets cause I don't think it will lay very smoothly. I typically use wood flour and microballons.

Being you have 2x4's running across you should be able to remove the 2 front supports. I'd remove them and place the deck panel back on and sit on it, if it flexes then you know you need them, if not then you are good. You can use almost any glass cloth you want for the deck since it's not a major structural piece, I typically use 6oz cloth for protection, if the deck has a little flex in it you can use 2 layers.

I've never used six10 but I don't see why not. And running a chase tube now might be smart incase you add a trolling motor later on


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

There is no reason you can't use the six10 to attach the deck. Being that it is going to be a utility boat and not entered in a beauty contest you could ust some 1208 or 1708 (0/90) for the deck. Apply it and use a roller to put the epoxy on and use just enough to wet it out and you will have a your non skid deck. After dry just paint it.


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## captd (Feb 8, 2011)

cool lookin. post more as you go...


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## Bush_Whacker (Jul 8, 2009)

Question.... The deck got to two coats on the bottom side and the edges. Nothing on the top yet. Will the coat that the glass will be laid in enough? Maybe another coat on top after the glass?

I think I will be running that chase tube. Good point on the possibility of a trolling motor. Even if not, depending how she floats, the battery may be upfront. After the deck is done. I'll be doing a float test.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

No, you have to prime the bare wood before laying your glass, if not the wood will suck up all the resin and it could delaminate. Roll on some epoxy, and wait atleast 20 minutes, or until it tacks up, then lay your glass and roll on resin to wet it out.


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## Bush_Whacker (Jul 8, 2009)

Thanks. That's what I was thinking/hoping.....not having to let cure/sand/re-epoxy......etc..


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

No need to let it dry and then sand, it's a little better to work wet on wet if you can to get a good chemical bond. Although I've seen studies where a mechanical bond (kind you get when you dry and sand first) is almost as good when using epoxy.


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## Bush_Whacker (Jul 8, 2009)

Got a little more done tonight.

Decided to run a chase tube to the bow. The way this boat is designed, it has  compartments on the gunnels for flotation foam (not a whole heck of a lot of it, but it is dry), and I decided to run the tube in that. I will have to glass the opening I made near the stern.










Not pretty, but it'll work.....










Then it was time to finally set the deck. I ended up using both the SIX10 and some thickened epoxy. Not a whole lot in the tube. I should of figured that and bought a couple.....oh well.

Underside of deck sanded where needed.....









Epoxied.....









Finally set and weighted down with buckets of water and weights......









Not sure what help the little weight are doing. The wife threw 'em on. :









Seems to be getting good contact.....










Next is the glass. Have to pick some up after work tomorrow.

Thanks for looking. More to come.


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## Bush_Whacker (Jul 8, 2009)

What the ____! I forgot to remove the swivel seat mount. :-[ Wow! I was in so much of a rush to get done what I did tonight, it totally slipped my mind. 

I'm kind of laughing about it.......oh well. ;D


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## Bush_Whacker (Jul 8, 2009)

Got around to making the front panel for the front deck the other night, and planned on getting a little done on the the rear deck.....

Template....










Dry fit......



















Then came the unexpected surprise.

Inside one of the side wells was a hole. Must have been somebody's way to fill the well with water...or drain it. Well it looks a little off-color around the hole, and a little spongy. So I decided to grind around the hole a little to see if any of the core was rotted and needed repaired. Well the wet wood extended 3/4 the way across the boat, and all the way to the stern. Yep....even the transom was wet. 



















I wasn't sure what to think at first. I was wanting this skiff to be on the water soon, but that doesn't look like it's going to happen. Then I thought this is my chance to make this boat better, stronger and safer. The budget on this project has increased a bit, but other than that I'm still excited about doing the work to make a nice little skiff that I can enjoy with my wife and kids. So the extra work involved now to make it better is not a big deal.  


Break out the grinder and chisel.

Some super thin core...



























I ended up taking out the side wells, pretty much had to. That's alright...more room. Plus I'm thinking of making a deck on the gunnels from front deck to rear deck. I can then make horizontal rod holders underneath.




















So one way I'm thinking of making the boat better is making a stringer system and a sole. That way I could run an additional chase tube, plumb for a livewell and and have a bilge. Could I also make the boat self-bailing? I'm thinking as long as the sole is higher than the surrounding water, it's possible. 

Here is what I'm thinking on placement of the stringers. They will run from panel to transom. The panel will be just off the floor, so any water in the front area can run under the sole to the bilge. Will side to side stringers be necessary, or would just having bow to stern stringer be sufficient? 

You can't see in the pictures, but the glass is still remaining under the front deck area. The wood wasn't affected that far forward. Thank goodness too.....it would of been a royal pain to have to remove it.











This will be my first transom and stringer re-do, so there will be questions along the way. I'ts going to be a totally different looking boat when finished....and I can't wait.


Thanks for checking it out.
More to come.


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## pgmelton (Apr 19, 2011)

Great job on the boat. I like the idea of increasing strength by adding stringers. My boat only has one stringer and I was contemplating adding two more. It would also act as supports for the deck I intend on adding. 

I am curious to see in what direction you go with respect to the live wells.

It is great having someone a few steps ahead of me to blaze the trail. ;D ;D


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