# 13’6” paramount



## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)




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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Welcome back @ceejkay


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

So this is a combination of 2 days. 1 day to get the console removed and stripped. And today started gutting it.. if I had to guess I would say the cap is every bit of 400lbs. The deck was an easy 200lbs. There wasn’t to much foam and most of it was dry. About 100lbs in that. That’s a lot of weight for a boat this size.


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## BassFlats (Nov 26, 2018)

At 13.5' there isn't a whole lot of space for storage and walk around room with the original layout. You might want to consider a higher raised front deck and side console . A tiller would give you even more room if you don't mind that set up. Where was the fuel tank?


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

Fuel tank Is right in the center under the deck. 12 gallons. Probably going to keep that setup. 
I don’t think a side console is the answer on this boat. With the v it is very weight sensitive from side to side. 
The more I look at this the more I’m thinking a small casting deck In the front, 32-36” back. 1 small compartment. Open up the deck area but only doing a cap and making rod holders as the support needed to replace the liner previously there. Keeping the center console. Then a rear casting deck. But I’m really looking at how ankona makes their deck on the native where it hinges up and a storage box underneath.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Save ur old adjustable trim tabs, I had that brand on my 1969 Kennedy kraft


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

Been a busy last week with the kids on spring break. Used my big boat most of the week but today started to make a dent in this boat. Looks like they just slapped a new on transom on top of the old one. Also there’s what appears to be an old drain about 1-1.5” above the oem deck height. Makes me wonder if this thing self bailed at one time in its life.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

Took all of about 15 mins to pull 90% of the stringers. Still have to do the front but I’m about ready to start grinding.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

So I thought I was ready to start grinding. I’m going to go out in a limb and say they didn’t grind before they glassed. Plus side less grinding for me.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

2 weeks ago I picked up a used cmc jack plate. Hopefully this is old enough to not be plagued with issues. So far it bench tests good. Got it cleaned up a little bit with all the rain we had this week. Any progress is progress.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

Grinding is done. Have the boat squared up and ready to start building. Made my template for the transom and knees.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

Went and picked up some of my core material today and got to doing my mock up. Transom is cut and the aft 8ft of stringers are done. All done in 3/4”. Still need about 20” more for the front but I need to get what I have bedded in.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

Got the transom put In today. Glued, fillet the corners, ground down the new and then glassed. Layup schedule was 6” tab, 2 full transom pieces and then a 10” tab. The stringer knees will be tied into the transom so there will be a few more layers once I do that.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

Got stringers set. Everything is still level, that’s a good thing. Time to glass them in.


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## FireTurtle (Apr 27, 2019)

Very cool little boat. With it gutted it looks bigger than 13.5 until you look at the console sitting inside of it. Are you planning on making that smaller or keeping it as is? 
Is that coosa you are using for the stringers & transom?


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

FireTurtle said:


> Very cool little boat. With it gutted it looks bigger than 13.5 until you look at the console sitting inside of it. Are you planning on making that smaller or keeping it as is?
> Is that coosa you are using for the stringers & transom?


I don’t know 100% with the console yet. I wanted to get the decks built first. And the transom and stringers are like coosa just not that brand.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

Got the stringers glassed in. Also stared at the layout for a solid 2 days making sure I liked my measurements. Still not 100% on layout.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

Did a dry fit of the jackplate and motor. Looks like I’ll need a motor well when I build the rear deck. Also didn’t realize how thick my transom ended up being. Not necessarily a bad thing I guess. 
Jack plate gives me a full 6” lift from where the motor was. I should be able to get really skinny


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

I cant believe I'm saying this, since I love a console
But put a polling platform on it and a tiller. Looks like you've saved some weight, it should be skinny


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

So after spending 2 months not touching this boat decided to get back at it. I tried to do a rear deck in a mold and well I failed pretty bad. Might make a post on that sometime.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

Got the bulkheads in. Fuel tank is in. Started working on the walk around gunnels. The goal will be the decks extending over the side of the hull 3.5”. Will give me a gunnel width of 9”.


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

Man lookin sweet bud!


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## jasonrl23 (Jul 27, 2009)

Don’t need to hear the whole story but what materials were used for the failed mold?


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

jasonrl23 said:


> Don’t need to hear the whole story but what materials were used for the failed mold?


Blue foam from homedepot. I did everything I thought I could to keep the poly resin from eating the foam. Should have done epoxy. It was more work to fix than I cared to do. But man it would have been sweet


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

Went shopping today for more core material. Going with 8lb 3/4” foam for the top sides and deck.


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## jasonrl23 (Jul 27, 2009)

Next 


ceejkay said:


> Blue foam from homedepot. I did everything I thought I could to keep the poly resin from eating the foam. Should have done epoxy. It was more work to fix than I cared to do. But man it would have been sweet


Try melamine next time. Make a female mold. Wax it three times prior to use. It works very well for one off molds. Use plasticine clay to fillet the joints. It’s that easy.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

jasonrl23 said:


> Next
> 
> Try melamine next time. Make a female mold. Wax it three times prior to use. It works very well for one off molds. Use plasticine clay to fillet the joints. It’s that easy.


Yeah the flat parts were melamine board. I knew better but wanted to try it. It’s easier to chock up a loss on a 13ft boat than a 30ft boat. I lost probably 2 gallons in resin, qt of gelcoat, 5 yards of 1708, and probably 2 yards of mat.


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## jasonrl23 (Jul 27, 2009)

ceejkay said:


> Yeah the flat parts were melamine board. I knew better but wanted to try it. It’s easier to chock up a loss on a 13ft boat than a 30ft boat. I lost probably 2 gallons in resin, qt of gelcoat, 5 yards of 1708, and probably 2 yards of mat.


Ouch! You could have done 4 oz plain weave, epoxy, backed with peel ply. Then when dry, continue with a poly layup.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

So the original layout had a nice little hatch in the front. Didn’t seem like it was In to bad of shape so i kept it and I’m going to reuse it. Played with how I wanted it. Got it all stripped down and set on the front casting deck. I glued it and then faired everything so it’s flush with the rest of the deck. Should be easy to glass that way. Also don’t know if I mentioned it before but the deck material is 3/4” 8lb foam.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

Rear casting deck is underway. Figured out the size hatch I wanted. Also started making the hatch gutter. I decided to make the gutter on the deck instead of making a mold and then making the part. I still need to make the inside lip but think I want to make all my radius on the other parts first. Also made the floor for under the rear casting deck


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Sweet! After you glass that floor under the rear deck, will it be impossible to remove the fuel cell? and how are you going to deal with the cutout for the fill? I'm assuming you don't want the contents of that compartment rubbing on the fuel fill hose


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

yobata said:


> Sweet! After you glass that floor under the rear deck, will it be impossible to remove the fuel cell? and how are you going to deal with the cutout for the fill? I'm assuming you don't want the contents of that compartment rubbing on the fuel fill hose


The fuel tank can’t be removed as of now. Even if I took the tank bulkheads down it won’t slide out the back, and it won’t go under the rear bulkhead. Only way to get it out would be cut the rear bulkhead out. I no lie scratched my head with this tank for a solid month. But it’s 12 gallons and it’s almost completely center of the boat. Pretty much where it was before. For the fill and everything behind the bulkhead it will get a cover. That will protect it and when I need to get in there I’ll have all the room in the world.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

Put 2 layers of 1708 on the underside of the front casting deck. 1 layer of 1708 under the gunnel caps. Got the front casting deck and side gunnel caps glued down. Been a lot of work that isn’t picture worthy. You know putting a round over on all the edges, making sure I like the layout, etc. got the rigging tube put in. Decided to foam it to make sure it stays quiet.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

Rain is in the forecast for the next week so progress will probably slow down a lot. But the rear floor is just about ready to go in. I put down white gelcoat for the bilge. Figured it would hold up pretty good. Probably the last time I see it this clean too. Rule redesigned their smaller bilge pumps too, I really like the duckbill check valve.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

Forgot to update this before I went away for work for 3 weeks. I put 2 layers of 1708 on the underside of the rear hatch floor. Then glued it and tabbed it in with a layer of 1708. Also tabbed around the transom knees with 1708. Then put a layer of mat over the whole thing. I’m really impressed how strong this layup is. Also got my bilge access cut and dry fit. Because I’m using foam I had to oversize the holes and fill with thickened resin. Once all that was done I rolled a thick coat of gelcoat over the floor. Once that kicked I hit it with some 80 grit to knock down some of the high spots. Not going for show quality finish in here but should look pretty nice.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

On to the rear casting deck. This is where a lot of time has been spent. I made my splash/motor well, got the underside glassed. This thing is so built up with the hatch gutter and motor well that I opted for only 1 layer of 1708 over the whole underside. Got my hatch gutters radius’s done and a layer of mat. I used parchment paper so I had less finish work to do down the road. Still need to finish those up but a bulk of the work Is done. Also got the gutter drains glassed in. Still not 100% sure where they are going to drain. I’m thinking possible the motor well. Got the rear deck glued down today as well. Next step is going to be making the overhang on the deck and figure out how to flip this


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)




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## FireTurtle (Apr 27, 2019)

Looks like this is going to be a sweet little boat when you're all done with it.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

Been working on the rub rail lip. Got it glued and a layer of 1708 on.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

The entire top deck has a layer of 1708 over it. Rub rail lip has 2. I still want to do a layer of csm over the whole top of the deck. I’ll get to that later. Flipped the boat over now time to tab the deck to the hull. Probably won’t post the progress of that, so the next post will be the bottom and hull Sides painted.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

I started glassing the underside. The underside of the rear deck is glassed to the hull. Then the overhang is glassed to the hull as well. Still have to do the front casting deck underside.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

Found a good amount of broken glass on the keel. Had to take care of that structurally. Then Sand fill repeat. Oh and high build primer so I can see what I’m doing.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

More sand fill repeat. Hahaha. I’m starting to see the light. Also seems like the transom is pretty straight.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Looking good! Anymore progress?


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

That’s pretty much up to date to where I’m at. Im spending a good amount of time on this to really get a good end product. It’s hard to see in the pics but there was an indent all the way around where the original rub rail sat. So I’ve been filling that in. I wasn’t going to originally but I think it would have just looked weird.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

Well I think this will be ok. Paint job it’s self isn’t my best work but it’s shiny and from a few feet away it looks pretty good.


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## BassFlats (Nov 26, 2018)

A perfect paint job will scare away the fish.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Looks great to me. Way better than any paint job I have ever done.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

Pulled the boat off the trailer and did some work to the trailer. It came out pretty good for a galvanized trailer. Luckily this thing was used in fresh water for the most part. Found some fenders at a marine flea market put on new bunks, and new lights. Trailer is super sturdy now.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

Put the boat back on the trailer right side up. Looks like I’ll be able to launch and recover this thing dry if I really wanted/needed too. Time to get the top sides done. Really love the color of the hull.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

I've never seen bunks that tilt like that. Interesting!


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

yobata said:


> I've never seen bunks that tilt like that. Interesting!


what do you mean?


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

ceejkay said:


> what do you mean?


Usually they are mounted on the rear crossmember (like you did) AND the next crossmember forward. The bunks usually stay relatively horizontal and displace the load of the vessel across both of those crossmembers. It appears from the photo that yours are able to tilt back and forth since they are only on the rear crossmember. It's a first for me, and I was just thinking about the merits...


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## Guest (Jan 24, 2020)

Looks great!


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

yobata said:


> Usually they are mounted on the rear crossmember (like you did) AND the next crossmember forward. The bunks usually stay relatively horizontal and displace the load of the vessel across both of those crossmembers. It appears from the photo that yours are able to tilt back and forth since they are only on the rear crossmember. It's a first for me, and I was just thinking about the merits...


Ah ok I see what you mean. I used to see this kind of trailer back in the day for Jon boats. Works really good launching from a bank with no ramp. The trailer actually tilts away from the tongue as well. Doubt I will ever use it like that but the option is there.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

Took some time to work on the console today. I’m planning on filling almost every hole and just starting from scratch. Made a filler sheet to fill some of the big holes. With how temperamental the weather has been I’m trying to knock out the small stuff.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

Started installing some of the stuff that really can’t be moved on the console. Also made some cardboard templates for possible stuff to install. The gauges are still a maybe.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

So I’ve been thinking about my fuel fill and couldn’t really think of a good spot to put so that it wouldn’t be in the way. Started looking at the front of the rear bulkhead. 90 degree fuel fill really wouldn’t work nor do I think they exist. So I made a mold for a little recessed panel.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Very nice!!°


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## BassFlats (Nov 26, 2018)

Necessity is the mother of invention. Nice job ceejkay.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

Makin stuff look pretty is not fun. I’ll be here for a little bit........


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

I hate fairing, it seems like such a waste of money to me. It is just about looks and I end up skimping on it then regret it later.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

PG350 said:


> I hate fairing, it seems like such a waste of money to me. It is just about looks and I end up skimping on it then regret it later.


I went back and forth in this. I thought about skimping out and just having seadeck made up. My last skiff I really cheaped out on and did a rough mat look. It didn’t look bad and was pretty grippy.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

ceejkay said:


> I went back and forth in this. I thought about skimping out and just having seadeck made up. My last skiff I really cheaped out on and did a rough mat look. It didn’t look bad and was pretty grippy.


Me too, I regretted not doing it last time. Your boat is looking great.


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## Fritz (Jan 17, 2017)

Love that mold you made!

What are the purple and white materials that you used to coat the mold with?


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## Guest (Feb 8, 2020)

ceejkay said:


> Makin stuff look pretty is not fun. I’ll be here for a little bit........
> View attachment 116622
> View attachment 116624
> View attachment 116626
> ...


Get yourself a Hutchins inline/airfile or make up a square pad sander like And you won’t mind fairing so much. They both make short work of knocking down filler!


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

Boatbrains said:


> Get yourself a Hutchins inline/airfile or make up a square pad sander like And you won’t mind fairing so much. They both make short work of knocking down filler!


I have an ingersoll rand one. Love that thing. I’ve been using what I call a bondo file right now to knock down a lot of the high stuff. It’s like a 16” cheese grater. It’s like a pre sanding tool.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

Fritz said:


> Love that mold you made!
> 
> What are the purple and white materials that you used to coat the mold with?


Your gonna love this. So this was a real quick one time use mold. Had some flower foam laying around. Then I put spackling over that. Sanded down smooth. Then green spray paint. Wet sanded that with 400. Then sprayed off white paint and primer spray paint. Hit that with some 400. Then 6 coats of mold release wax. Then pva. Then laid my glass


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## Guest (Feb 8, 2020)

ceejkay said:


> I have an ingersoll rand one. Love that thing. I’ve been using what I call a bondo file right now to knock down a lot of the high stuff. It’s like a 16” cheese grater. It’s like a pre sanding tool.


I saw it, toss that ingersoll “lol” and get yourself a Hutchins! Much more power and will make very short work of the filler. The bondo grater won’t be necessary any more. The square pad sander is also a beast but takes some getting used to. I am saving my pennies for the flexi sander electric inline now! I just hope it holds up after dropping that much coin on it!


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

Boatbrains said:


> I saw it, toss that ingersoll “lol” and get yourself a Hutchins! Much more power and will make very short work of the filler. The bondo grater won’t be necessary any more. The square pad sander is also a beast but takes some getting used to. I am saving my pennies for the flexi sander electric inline now! I just hope it holds up after dropping that much coin on it!


Yeah I went cheap with the ingersoll. But it’s all good. I really try not to make building boats a habit, but somehow I’m on my 4th in 4 years. Go figure. Also I’ve been putting it on pretty thin. Almost wonder if thicker wouldn’t be better sometimes. Lol


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

For anyone wondering what the pink filler I use is, it’s super poly fill from fgci with red mekp


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## Guest (Feb 8, 2020)

ceejkay said:


> For anyone wondering what the pink filler I use is, it’s super poly fill from fgci with red mekp
> View attachment 116726


Spreads butter smooth and sands nice too!


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

Boatbrains said:


> Spreads butter smooth and sands nice too!


Not to mention how light this stuff is


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

Man lookin good brother!


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

Well top sides are about done. Just need to sand down the high build primer, but it’s flat. Also started installing stuff. Motor, trolling motor and other Miscellaneous odds and ends. Gonna float test it soon so I can figure out where I want the cockpit deck to be. 































































View attachment 118562


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)




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## Guest (Feb 19, 2020)

Looks great!


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

So got all the big stuff installed. I put 2 of my wife’s craft fair weights (80lbs total) on top of the tank. Then put the battery down and console. Then we float tested it. Marked my waterline with no one in it. Couldn’t have gone any better, I will say this hull is very weight sensitive. Might not be able to accommodate a poling platform.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

So here’s where I’m looking at. My water line with no passengers is about 1/2” up from the actual water line. From the top of the cap to that line is 14”. Now move to the inside. I put a piece of 1/4” plywood across the stringers and got 13.5” down. So I might raise up the deck off the stringers another inch. The ultimate goal is for the deck to self bail with forward momentum. And when I’m fishing plug the holes. Kinda how my buddy’s hells bay lappy hull is.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

Made my template and cut the deck coring out. Then did a dry fit of everything. So far I’m very happy with everything.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

Well after my respirator fiasco I got the deck in. My core was a little warped from not laying flat. So I did a layer of 1708 on the underside, then put my support strips on and a layer of 1708 over top of those. Covered it in bagging plastic and put weight on it. Once that kicked I glued and screwed it to the stringer. Tabbed the edges with 1708 and then 2 layers of 1708 over the whole thing.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

Prepped the deck for glassing the console in and another layer of 1708 on the outside edges. Got all that glassed in. Getting close to fairing the cockpit.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

Have I mentioned I hate this part hahaha. Got my deck drains drilled, little anxiety on that one. Started fairing the deck. Still have a good amount to do.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

Got everything in high build epoxy primer. Continuing to sand. I might be done sometime.......


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

Well she’s painted. Time to start putting it together.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

Built the box to cover all the fuel stuff. Everything can be accessed by a pie plate.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

Made a finishing cap for the transom. .63” aluminum, sanded all the way up to 800 grit and then polished with mother’s.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

Big project. The rub rail. That was not fun. There’s about 90 rivets holding it on. Spaced about 4-6” apart.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Christmas lights are still up


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

yobata said:


> Christmas lights are still up


There’s actually a really good reason for that. So it’s boat motivation. I need to replace the facia boards. But The boat needs to be finished first. So it’s a gentle reminder to quit screwing off and get this boat done.


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

Looking great!


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

What’s the saying? Do it once cry once. I decided to put hydraulic steering on this thing. That cost about half of what I paid for the boat in the first place. Drilling a 4” hole for the rigging wasn’t fun either. Also got most of the big stuff ran, power cables, motor harness, steering lines, shift/throttle cables, and transducer wire. Still have quite a bit of stuff to shove in that rigging tube.


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

Nice to see I’m not the only one keeping PBR in business during this time. Why did you choose to go hydraulic? Definitely not for the cost and weight savings, ease of use?


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

Copahee Hound said:


> Nice to see I’m not the only one keeping PBR in business during this time. Why did you choose to go hydraulic? Definitely not for the cost and weight savings, ease of use?


I go through my fair share of pbr and miller lol. There’s a few reasons for hydraulic. Scroll back a few pages and look at my rigging tube. I don’t think I’d fit a mechanical steering in there, not easily anyways. Also running a jackplate is going to put a little more torque on the steering. Where I run I need to be able to make tight turns quickly. Lot better response with hydraulic. Lastly is longevity. I can’t tell you how many mechanical steering systems have failed for me. The one that came with this boat included.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

I forgot how much fun rigging a boat is. Started installing stuff. Also the front hatch was a little high. I haven’t touched that yet and decided now is as good of time as any. But needed a little win. Installed my led lights. Full rgb that go from the front all the way to the back. Spent a little time playing with the Bluetooth controller tonight. I’ve never had lights like this so this is exciting to me.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

Got the new core piece for the front hatch. Also got the rear hatch glassed, ended up with a little bow in the center but I’ll live with it. I have an order in for wiring and some odds and ends. I hate waiting for that stuff. Everything is mounted on the console. 90 degree plus days have my motivation to an all time low. I’m also doing some work to the sea pro in the back ground of some of the pics.


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## aquaking (Jul 23, 2019)

nice build. how much of the fairing poly did you end up using


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

aquaking said:


> nice build. how much of the fairing poly did you end up using


Between inside and out probably a gallon. But most of it was sanded off.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

Took a couple days to go out fishing. But managed to get a little progress. Fuel system is all done and routed. Was having an issue with the shift/throttle cables. Really hard to move. Got some xtremes and made a world of difference. I put them on every boat I own. Motivation is a bit lacking with all the ramps within an hour from me being closed.


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## oysterhsdr (Feb 21, 2017)

Amazing post and awesome work! Keep it up!!


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

Been working on wiring and a few other things. Got the jackplate wired up to the trim switch on the throttle. Brought it all the way down and have 1” clearance for the steering and deck. I was worried about that. Still need to finish cleaning up the wiring. Also picked up this sweet cushion on offer up for 100$. Working on the hatches now. I’ve been procrastinating on these.


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

That cushion looks seriously comfy


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Thanks for all the pictures 
Now go slim it


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

permitchaser said:


> Thanks for all the pictures
> Now go slim it


That’s the plan. Although the closest ramp that’s open right now is about an hr and a half away. Hopefully Friday


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

Got a little shopping done today. Also I need to stay off offer up, like seriously. Picked up a poling platform. The feet are a little rough but I can deal with that. Paid 175$ for it. Got that put on. Got the hatches on, got the cushion mounted to the rear hatch. Also put in my flush cleats. Getting real close.


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## Kowalski (Jul 25, 2018)

love this thread! cool skiff , with the work done by a guy at home, nice but not super fancy. very inspiring for other non-pro back yard guy's. Don't get me wrong I do like all the bad azz polished craftsmanship pro builds and re-builds , but this kind of stuff is awesome. Thanks for sharing


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

Well guys this is about it for now. I put together a little video. Thanks for following my build.


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

THAT. IS. AWESOME! Congrats on the finish.. though we all know it's never truly finished


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## Kyle.Matco (Apr 29, 2020)

Love this thing, bet it feels even faster.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

I need a tach so I can dial this boat in. I have about 400-500 rpm at the top that doesn’t do anything. I had this one laying around in my box o boat stuff. Put it in. One of these days I’ll just grab a matching set. Also had to move my anchor light from the motor to the poling platform. Lastly got my drain guards on. Played with my lights from atop of the platform too. I’m like a little kid haha. I’ll keep this updated as I do things here and there.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

Finally got out to fish on it. Had a great couple hrs on the boat. We got on the water about 930 and off by 2. Ended up catching about 30 small bass 1-2 pounders, but perfect first fishing shake down run. This is the first time I’ve fished off this boat lol. With 2 guys (180 and 170lbs), roto molded cooler with few drinks, ice, case of beer and 2 tackle bags she topped out at 32mph. I put a tach in but don’t think it’s accurate. Showed wot to be 3900 rpm. Might need to adjust the settings on it. First fish on this boat was pictured.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

It seems like there’s always something to upgrade or update on a boat. Got a new Minnkota ipilot, also working on getting some tunes in the boat. Went with fusion 6” speakers that my buddy bought, he bought the wrong size and gave them to me for a discount. Also picked up a jbl amp open box special. I’ve been sitting on a fusion Bluetooth module for a while and it will get used for this build.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

On a lighter side, I had to shove a little helper to help through bolt the trolling motor.


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

And he’ll never forget that he helped you build the boat!


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

I’ve been able to get some hours on the boat. Having a blast with it. Finished up my under gunnel rod holders.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

What part of Florida do you live in?


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

PG350 said:


> What part of Florida do you live in?


I live in ft lauderdale. But fish mostly in Everglades city


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## Mark Rumenik (Apr 18, 2019)

Awesome boat. Love what you did with it. How are the side self-bailing drain holes working out for you? Are you plugging them up when you're not running?


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## oysterhsdr (Feb 21, 2017)

Man great job, looks like an awesome well rounded skiff. Have fun with it!


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

Mark Rumenik said:


> Awesome boat. Love what you did with it. How are the side self-bailing drain holes working out for you? Are you plugging them up when you're not running?


The self bailing holes work great. I keep them plugged. I did dump a 5 gal bucket to rinse off fish slime the other day. As long as there’s forward movement with the boat it will literally create a vacuum and suck the water out. I couldn’t be more happy with them. If no ones on the boat they are about an inch above the water line.


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## Mark Rumenik (Apr 18, 2019)

That's good to hear, I have a wood/fiberglass skiff I just built and considering doing this for extra drainage. Appreciate the feedback.


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