# Hewes Bonefisher build.



## kc5273 (Jul 11, 2010)

Just bought a Hewes Bonefisher 16 hull. It does not have a cap, so I will be building everything from the stringers up. Are there any Hewes owners out there so I can get some measurements? Would like to hear from others with ideas. Let the build begin....


----------



## cutrunner (Jun 8, 2010)

Now were talkin!
I always had a soft spot for the lapstrake boats. They ride so damn good


----------



## bw510 (Sep 1, 2011)

glad someone on here bought that boat! I've been seeing that for sale forever.congrats!
I'm looking forward to the build and keep the pics coming


----------



## TheDude (Dec 14, 2010)

I have a 2000 Bonefisher 16. It looks like yours is a pre-1995 with more freeboard, but if there are any measurements you need, let me know. Curious to hear what your plans are. I've been toying with the idea of converting it to a tiller when I repower, but have never heard of anyone doing that.


----------



## jonathanglasser71 (Apr 22, 2012)

Great canvas to start with . Give me a call when you get a chance . Would love to help in whatever way I can .


----------



## kc5273 (Jul 11, 2010)

OK, I leveled the boat and noticed that the port scupper hole was higher than the starboard scupper hole for the self bailing cockpit. I leveled the port stringer and built up the starboard stringer with high strength putty. Now the stringers are level. I covered the stringers with one layer of 1708 and plan on putting two layers of 1708 on the complete stringer system. I glassed in a piece of pvc in the front compartment of the stringer system, this will allow the front locker to drain, I am going to foam this compartment. More to come.


----------



## HialeahAngler (Dec 18, 2008)

those hulls are very nice. good luck. I don't see why you wouldn't be able to power it with a tiller if you wanted to.


----------



## kc5273 (Jul 11, 2010)

I have the stringers re-glassed in and I think they are level. I am ready to put the two bulkheads in that are forward and aft of the cockpit. What is the best way to tell if the boat is square. I want to make sure these bulkheads are in properly. Any comments are welcome.


----------



## acraft1720 (Jul 31, 2012)

Tiller would look cool but realistically you'll probably want a 90 hp to push that boat and driving a tiller 90 would get pretty tiring unless you had hydraulic steering. Those hulls ride and drive great with a console and a nice steering wheel with a knob. I know I'd end up wanting it rigged that way since it's got more of a v hull than most tiller boats. Looks great though look forward to seeing the build.


----------



## kc5273 (Jul 11, 2010)

Thanks Slipstream, I have another flats boat that I will be taking the power, hydraulic steering, jack plate, and poling platform off of to complete the Hewes build.


----------



## A_Wall (Apr 6, 2011)

I have a 1989 16' Bonefisher, if you need any measurements let me know.


----------



## kc5273 (Jul 11, 2010)

I did a little on the boat this weekend, would have like to done more. I glassed in one of the front bulkheads and started fitting my wire and fuel cases. I will add some pictures in a few days. I am thinking on glassing in my center console. I will have a wood sole and do not want any screw holes in it - any thoughts, pros and cons?


----------



## Mally380 (Nov 6, 2012)

I have a teak sole in my Redfisher and will also have in my new micro that I am building. It gets hot but you can't beat the look. Mine is affixed without any screws.


----------



## kc5273 (Jul 11, 2010)

Here is a pic of the forward bulkhead tabbed in and I started to add nida core strips, which I will glass in, so the sole has something to rest on along the gunwales.


----------



## Skiffaddict (Apr 26, 2013)

What size ply wood are you using? 3/4 or 1/2in.


----------



## kc5273 (Jul 11, 2010)

I am using 5/8 7 ply marine plywood for the sole and bulkheads. I will be using Nida Core for the decks, wish I could use Nida Core for everything, but the budget will not allow.


----------



## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Can't use nida in that direction as it will crush.


----------



## Skiffaddict (Apr 26, 2013)

Yeah I used 3/4 ply for my bulkheads and decks but I used coosa board for my sole. It's a bit heavy but not too heavy definitely will use all coosa next build.


----------



## kc5273 (Jul 11, 2010)

Got some work done this weekend, the splash well is somewhat tabbed in, and the two aft bulkheads and aft locker sole are cut and dry fitted. Hope to glass everything in this week.


----------



## kc5273 (Jul 11, 2010)

Update:







Next - rear deck and cockpit sole.....


----------



## c0rvtte73 (Apr 15, 2013)

Looking good!


----------



## kc5273 (Jul 11, 2010)

Little help please.....

I am going to bond my rear deck to this frame.....


The top layer is 4.5oz matt. Do you feel that it is sanded enough to bond the rear deck to it...





The rear deck will be encapsulated 5/8 marine ply with 4.5 oz matt on the under side and 2 layers of 1708 finished with a layer of 4.5 matt (do you think the second layer of 1708 is necessary?) I will be putting down with a poly bonding putty. 

Any and all suggestions are welcome.

Thanks


----------



## SilentHunter (Jun 14, 2010)

its alot of glass. 4.5 oz is thick stuff. you could probably get away with 1 of each. But its your call it will be more weight and more strenght but you have alot of surface area that will be bonded no big open gaps to worry about. I say no.


----------



## hillcharl (Feb 7, 2011)

How's the build going?


----------



## kc5273 (Jul 11, 2010)

A little progress, I foamed and glassed the floor in. I bought the gas tank, off the self, fits fine. Next comes the forward and aft decks.


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

looking great this will be a great flats boat. Do you have a channel from front to back for liquid to flow back to bilge


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Also put a large PVC pipe in to accomadate fuel hose and wires


----------



## kc5273 (Jul 11, 2010)

Permit,
I have two chases down either side of the boat for fuel line and wiring. I don't like having electric in the same chase as the fuel line. I also have a drain from the front locker that runs along the middle of the boat and empties into the bilge.


----------



## Recidivists (May 9, 2011)

And of course, all of that can be seen by reading the first page. 1.6 a day and counting.


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

then you know what you are doing. Cant wait to see it in the water


----------



## kc5273 (Jul 11, 2010)

Got to do a little work on the boat this weekend, I fitted the gunwales and a section of the front deck. I think I am going to do an offset console. I located it where I think I want it, still thinking about it.


----------



## LWalker (Aug 20, 2013)

Looking good. Have you thought about just going full side console instead?


----------



## kc5273 (Jul 11, 2010)

A full size console because of the height or seating in front of it?


----------



## cutrunner (Jun 8, 2010)

Side, not size


----------



## kc5273 (Jul 11, 2010)

Cut, glade you can read better than I...... I have, but I want to put my batteries in the console and bring then out of the stern. I think a side console would be great, I could bring the batteries forward to the bow, does anyone know where to get a side console?


----------



## LWalker (Aug 20, 2013)

Build one or cut the top off the console you have and modify it. You could build it out of ply just like you are doing the rest of the boat. 

There are some good pics in oysterbreath's build:
http://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1310954999/330#330


----------



## kc5273 (Jul 11, 2010)

Now you got me think'in and that can be dangerous,


----------



## Gatordebaitor (Oct 8, 2013)

you could do a side console with a front jump seat similar to the lake and bay set up. http://www.floridasportsman.com/2012/03/25/xtra_lake_bay_boca_grande_21/


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

The consol is fine you just need to move it over so you can walk around it or put it against the gunnel to have more room


----------



## Recidivists (May 9, 2011)

Ugghhh, 1.81 now.


----------



## kc5273 (Jul 11, 2010)

Its been a long time, but the project is moving along. Dry fit the deck today, will glue and glass the last four pieces into place. Then its onto fairing and paint.


----------



## LWalker (Aug 20, 2013)

Looking good.

If you haven't glued it down already, I would add a loop to that vent hose.


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

That is coming along very well. I like watching y'all that know what their doing.


----------



## kc5273 (Jul 11, 2010)

Good catch LWalker, that's an older picture....I did add a loop. I did a little more fitting today.....I like the progress. Thanks guys for all you ideas and comments.


----------



## cutrunner (Jun 8, 2010)

Looking good.
any idea where it is in terms of weight?


----------



## kc5273 (Jul 11, 2010)

Cut – my best estimate is the boat will be pushing high 800 to 900 lbs. From what I have read the boat was 880+ from Hewes. So even if I end up in the low 900lbs I will be happy.


----------



## kc5273 (Jul 11, 2010)

Up Date:


----------



## flytyn (Aug 21, 2012)

Looking great.


----------



## kc5273 (Jul 11, 2010)

Sanded all day then mocked up the boat.....


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

I love those Hewes boats. Your is looking great. Can't wait to see it finished


----------



## swampfox (May 9, 2007)

Holy Shiat! I just caught up on this build. I will be honest I thought it was gonna be one of the many that are never seen thru to the end. When I first saw the hull. I was like DAMN that's a project. But man you have knocked it out! It's looking good. I like the classic sunken deck. Have you chosen the final colors yet? It's getting close to that time.


----------



## kc5273 (Jul 11, 2010)

The hull was painted just before I bought it, it is Ford Mustang Blue. The deck will be white, accented with the light blue Kiwi Grip for the non skid areas and blue camo Sea Deck under the gunnels. I have a black Taco rubrail.


----------



## Zipper146 (Dec 4, 2013)

That is a sweet boat! Great work!!


----------



## cutrunner (Jun 8, 2010)

Wow, coming along nice!!


----------



## cutrunner (Jun 8, 2010)

Wow, coming along nice!!


----------



## Shicks007 (Apr 30, 2014)

Looking great! It's nice to see a classic preserved like it deserves.


----------



## kc5273 (Jul 11, 2010)

UP DATE


----------



## cutrunner (Jun 8, 2010)

Hand clap


----------



## jrod0785 (Aug 26, 2009)

Awesome work!!!


----------



## Brad2048 (Sep 30, 2014)

Well done! Looks great!


----------



## kbkeys1 (Aug 11, 2014)

That's some rebuilt magic...kudos!


----------



## Reefmaster (Sep 10, 2014)

Nice build, personally I would put the console in the center, or if you want a side console I would do a small side console on the gunwhale


----------



## kc5273 (Jul 11, 2010)

DONE........shake-down day.


----------



## Shicks007 (Apr 30, 2014)

Looks great!


----------



## Net 30 (Mar 24, 2012)

Turned out sweeeeet! You're gonna like the offset console. 

I had a 18 Redfisher built in 1992 and I had the console offset to starboard and it worked out great. You can still get the old retro Bonefisher stickers…might look cool.


----------



## Salty_South (Feb 25, 2009)

Nicely done!


----------



## Brad2048 (Sep 30, 2014)

Glad to see it finally done! I drive by your house all the time, my dad lives on Venetian Blvd across from the triangle, and I keep my boat there.


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

That is one cool looking boat. Keep the console were it is keep it original.


----------

