# Rookie painter on first project



## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

https://www.youtube.com/user/boatworkstoday



Im in the process of researching which paint and how nice I really want it to turn out, but Andy at Boatworks Today just recently did a really thorough walkthrough of paint prep and rolling that may help you out


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## onedadgonebad (Jan 28, 2020)

I'll check it out. Thx


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## BrownDog (Jun 22, 2019)

I used epifanes for a roll/tip on my boat, turned out plenty good and holds up to heavy use well. 
jamestown will mix any custom color you want.


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## onedadgonebad (Jan 28, 2020)

onedadgonebad said:


> I'll check it out. Thx





BrownDog said:


> I used epifanes for a roll/tip on my boat, turned out plenty good and holds up to heavy use well.
> jamestown will mix any custom color you want.


What are roll tips?


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## onedadgonebad (Jan 28, 2020)

epifanes is a primer?


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## BrownDog (Jun 22, 2019)

Rolling and tipping is a method of painting boats without a sprayer

Epifanes is a brand name, they make multiple types of paint, primer, varnish, etc. I have used the 2 part paint.


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## Mike Haydon (Dec 19, 2019)

Honestly you are kind of in a situation that you need a little more info about. Have you weighed the boat to make sure it's not holding water. If not you have lucked out. I would use a high build primer that uses a mekp catalyst to cure. Such as SLICK SAND. then you can block sand that and use what ever top coat and application method you would like. Hope this helps. (727)637-1241 Michael


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## BrownDog (Jun 22, 2019)

With that many cracks I would sand it down then lay a layer or two of mat to stabilize it, fair, prime, then paint. This is opposed to chasing and filling each crack.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

I'm with @BrownDog lay a couple layers of cloth and paint it. There is no reason to sand it smooth.

If you want a boat with a smooth interior, buy one.


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## onedadgonebad (Jan 28, 2020)

Mike Haydon said:


> Honestly you are kind of in a situation that you need a little more info about. Have you weighed the boat to make sure it's not holding water. If not you have lucked out. I would use a high build primer that uses a mekp catalyst to cure. Such as SLICK SAND. then you can block sand that and use what ever top coat and application method you would like. Hope this helps. (727)637-1241 Michael


Hey Mike,

Thank you for the advice. Sure nice of you. I have two gallons of kiwiwgrip that I will finish the job with. Do you still recommend slick sand?


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## onedadgonebad (Jan 28, 2020)

BrownDog said:


> With that many cracks I would sand it down then lay a layer or two of mat to stabilize it, fair, prime, then paint. This is opposed to chasing and filling each crack.


 Hey Brown Dog,
That is a great way to go. Thank you for the advice.


onedadgonebad said:


> Hey Mike,
> 
> Thank you for the advice. Sure nice of you. I have two gallons of kiwiwgrip that I will finish the job with. Do you still recommend slick sand?


 I haven't weighed the boat but it gets on plane in a beat with a 25HP.


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

onedadgonebad said:


> Hey Brown Dog,
> That is a great way to go. Thank you for the advice.
> 
> 
> I haven't weighed the boat but it gets on plane in a beat with a 25HP.


Weigh it anyway. Those will plane until they won’t. They are notorious for water getting into the foam beneath the floor. If you are overhauling it, you want to knock all the ugly off it at once.

Nate


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## Mike Haydon (Dec 19, 2019)

onedadgonebad said:


> Hey Mike,
> 
> Thank you for the advice. Sure nice of you. I have two gallons of kiwiwgrip that I will finish the job with. Do you still recommend slick sand?


I would recommend the slack sand for sure. It is gonna be a surface finish that is smiith and easily sandable. It uses mekp as a catalyst so just follow your kiwigrip info on application after the primer. It should be ready to apply directly but may suggest a sealer. I have not used that specific product before. I have used alexseal, awlgrip, awlcraft, rustoleum and many 2k automotive products


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## Fishtex (May 10, 2014)

The Mfg has complete guide to application. As I recall you want the substrate sealed before application, but no need for primer. You’ve got it sanded down which is what’s needed. You still need to seal and there are several ideas on that but more glass and resins seems like a lot of unneeded weight and work, and CSM is not going add strength. However, if it were me I would coat it with a penetrating epoxy to fill any minute voids. Make sure it’s real clean, solvent wipe down, etc. before the Kiwi grip and pay attention to the roller application in relation to the texture you desire. 
the thing about crazing on hulls is, as the hull flexes going across rough water, the cracks can open up and water gets in especially on the hull bottom as the force is huge. Over time you get blisters and de-lamination. On a cockpit sole, not as big a deal but over time it can cause de-lamination, soft spots.
Take a good look at your hull bottom to make sure it’s ok. They are really tough boats but everything has limits. 
How Carolina skiffs get water in them is by people who drill into the sole and screw stuff down like cooler brackets and consoles. You can’t do that unless you overdrill, fill with thickened epoxy, pilot drill for screw and then use a sealer in the screw hole with the screw. That being said, if it were me, If you are going to need to screw stuff down, I would glass cleats down and then attach to the cleat so there is no penetration of the sole. 
If your sole looks like there are some old holes, I’d check them real close. The bare hull is about 305lbs as I recall. The fact that it gets on plane quick is a good sign, but weighing it is not a bad idea if you can get easy access to a scale. 

Good Luck


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## onedadgonebad (Jan 28, 2020)

Project Update
- From transom forward two feet - grinded, fiberglassed, sanded
-Whole boat - grinded, sanded, acetoned, scotch-brighted, ...
-Started the Priming Process - Pettit EZ Prime High Build 
-tinted, rolled on, sanded, rolled second coat.

Today, I w






ill prime the gunnels, transom, benches, and front raised deck with a tinted grey
Tomorrow, Kiwigrip (with a sandpaper finish) deck
Friday, Kiwigrip (smooth) Gunnels, front deck transom, benches.

Then, rewire and configure electrical.
Finally, wait for the wind to be down and go!


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## onedadgonebad (Jan 28, 2020)

It's done! I want to thank everyone for all their help. I finished the job with Kiwigrip everywhere. I tinted it a light blue for the deck, medium gray forthe gunnels and deck edge, and light gray for the bench and front deck. Overall I am happy with the job. I could have sanded better but as ducknut said if you want it smooth buy a new one. The wiring took some time as did all the prep. Applying the kiwigrip was much easier than it first appeared it would be. Check out the pick and tell me what you think.


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

Love the color. I’ve been debating blue tone white vs ice blue vs Kingston gray. Looks like you did a nice job bringing the colors together


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## onedadgonebad (Jan 28, 2020)

Copahee Hound said:


> Love the color. I’ve been debating blue tone white vs ice blue vs Kingston gray. Looks like you did a nice job bringing the colors together


The light blue and grey work!


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