# It's HOT!!!



## Brett

160 degree thermostat, yeah, that'd be hot to touch,
then when back at idle and the engine isn't putting
out a lot of heat, the temp would drop.
It ain't broke, don't fix it.


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## topnative2

what is the stream like when your running???????????


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## rkmurphy

> what is the stream like when your running???????????


Well I know my model has a low pressure stream. So, when I'm running, it's wind blown and hard to tell how good it is...but it is definitely peeing.


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## topnative2

talked to my friend a merc mec-a-nic
he advised temp should be between 120-140 depeendint on year and that the temp should remain relatively constant not what u are describing
ck/replace thermostat may not be opening all the way
then the water jackets if in sw use


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## rkmurphy

> talked to my friend a merc mec-a-nic
> he advised temp should be between 120-140 depeendint on year and that the temp should remain relatively constant not what u are describing
> ck/replace thermostat may not be opening all the way
> then the water jackets if in sw  use


Thermostat was replaced when the water pump job was done and water jacket had to be removed in the process because of broken bolts. I would imagine the mechanic would have let me know if something was wrong...

I'm definitely switching mechanics, though...

Is this a major issue? Or could I wait to address it til my next service in 4 months?


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## Un-shore

I would buy (invest in) a laser heat sensor and see exactly how hot it really is.

One of the best investments you could make.

Other use is checking hub temps.


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## rkmurphy

Talked to a reputable Merc place today and explained the whole situation. He said that as long as it's peeing, he doubts it's running hot and that if it is running hot to the point where the motor would start to get damaged, the pee stream would be non-existent and just steam shooting out. He mentioned a good way to test if it's to hot is to run the motor wide open for a while and quickly take the cowling off. Then, dip my hand in the water and drip water on the top of the cylinder block. If it boils, it's too hot.

I hope he's right...I'll test it this weekend.


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## islander1225

my 98 25 merc 2strk did the same thing, and never had any issues out of it from september 08 until i sold the boat in april of this yea, run liek you stole it the motor will last forever.


Alex


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## topnative2

lets assume the h20 pump was put in correctly and everything else----then the next ques. would be is the motor set to high when your running and not getting enough flow over the intake


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## rkmurphy

> lets assume the h20 pump was put in correctly and everything else----then the next ques. would be is the motor set to high when your running and not getting enough flow over the intake


Motor is mounted with the cavitation plate level with the bottom of the hull.

I'm going to try my best to get some good fishing in this weekend...I'll check everything then. Do the drip test and what-not. Hopefully it's nothing.

Either way...I'm switching mechanics ;D


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## topnative2

get er done


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## rkmurphy

> get er done


Thanks a lot for the help so far, man. I really do appreciate it. I'll update before the weekend is over.


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## mark_gardner

just keep in mind that water temps between 120 and 140 are gonna feel hot to the touch. the best way to know for sure how hot it's running is to get a thermometer and test it, thats probably what your new mechanics going to do anyways, you might be getting all worked up over nothing [smiley=1-headache.gif]


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## topnative2

I disagree---the best way is to hold an egg w/ a pair of vice grips  under the stream and see how long it takes to get a soft boiled egg----Brett has the appropriate tables to compare the times= tempertures
;D


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## Brett

Applicable information for proper calibration using the egg method...
Graphs, diagrams, computations and formulas needed.

http://blog.khymos.org/2009/04/09/towards-the-perfect-soft-boiled-egg/


It's a shame I'm so easily entertained....


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## rkmurphy

Well took it out today (even ran it on the hose before I left the house) and it started to pee like crap. I'm so tired of this sh*t. Either they installed a defective thermostat or just didn't put one in (which I payed for) and the motor hasn't peed or cooled the same since they did the water pump job.

When they reinstalled the water jacket and gasket, they slopped some sort of gasket sealer all over it and it's on the block, too. It looks like an amateur job.

I'm taking it to them on Monday and I expect it back by the end of the week in pristine working order. Afterword I have no plan on ever returning there. I don't know if I just had a bad experience with them or if this is a regular occurrence with them but, I will definitely be taking my business to a more reputable place.


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## topnative2

sorry to here that---stuff like that takes the enjoyment out ---we all been there and now it is behind you so you got it over with---now time to enjoy again


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## 1BadPFS

make sure they did the WHOLE water pump kit, not just an impeller... sounds like to me they did the job half ass and only put an impeller in it, I've seen the same symptoms many times in that situation.


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## rkmurphy

> make sure they did the WHOLE water pump kit, not just an impeller... sounds like to me they did the job half ass and only put an impeller in it, I've seen the same symptoms many times in that situation.


I'm almost positive they replaced the whole housing.  Long story.  I payed a lot of visits there including going to pick up a housing assembly on my own and dropping it off at the shop where they showed me the old one.  They even said they had a used one in the shop that they tried.

I just don't understand how they can botch a job that I could have done myself if it wasn't for the broken bolts.

Edit:
The slop of sealant applied to the water cover gasket looks like an incorrect procedure. After looking at my shop manual, it doesn't specify the use of any sort of gasket sealant. It is very specific on the use of sealants, too.


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## Tom_C

If there is slop of sealant on the outside how much slop of sealant is inside the motor??? [smiley=1-headache.gif]


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## Un-shore

> If there is slop of sealant on the outside how much slop of sealant is inside the motor??? [smiley=1-headache.gif]



x2, I wouldn't even take it back, these guys are hacks.
These cooling systems are small passages that could really be affected by just a little gunk in the wrong place. Not peeing right means the water is not even getting up the mid section properly.

Can you do the work know that the bolt problem is fixed? If so it would be worth it. 

Wished you lived closer I would like to help if I could, it's got to be something simple.


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## 1BadPFS

another thing to check is if the seal at the top of the mid is folded over from where they stuffed the water tube in it...


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## rkmurphy

I dropped it off today. Going to call and nag them tomorrow to see how it's going. Thanks for the advice and words of encouragement...definitely doing the work myself or taking it to a reputable place next time.

I'll update tomorrow.


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## rkmurphy

I got it back yesterday. The thermostat WAS taken out but I had them put one back in. It turns out the water system was completely gunked up with sand or salt or both. He said at first he couldn't even get it to pee and took it apart about 3 times over. Then, he hooked the hose up to it to back flush it and sand or whatever exploded out. I'm not sure how this happened...I've never run aground (to my knowledge).

But bottom line is I'm probably never going back, still. The guy is really nice and helpful but I'd rather pay extra for the confidence that I'm taking it to a reputable place. So, no offense to him.

I still don't think it's peeing 100% right but I'm just going to run it and keep back-flushing it until it's time for service numero 2. Then I'm doing it myself!


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## Un-shore

Glad to hear it worked out well. Didn't it pee okay before you brought it in? I think Tom C nailed it and that was really a chunk of goop that clogged it up but the mech wasn't going to say that.


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## Un-shore

> Talked to a reputable Merc place today and explained the whole situation.  He said that as long as it's peeing, he doubts it's running hot and that if it is running hot to the point where the motor would start to get damaged, the pee stream would be non-existent and just steam shooting out.  He mentioned a good way to test if it's to hot is to run the motor wide open for a while and quickly take the cowling off.  Then, dip my hand in the water and drip water on the top of the cylinder block.  If it boils, it's too hot.
> 
> I hope he's right...I'll test it this weekend.


I've been rethinking this and I don't want to cause alarm but something is still bugging me about this.

First, I don't think that is a correct statement when he said "as long as it's peeing, he doubts it's running hot.." That just indicates that your water pump is still working. I believe that most motors bypass the t'stat because you need constant water cooling the exhaust.

The statement he made "if it is running hot to the point where the motor would start to get damaged, the pee stream would be non-existent and just steam shooting out." while very true you could also be damaging the the motor even if water is peeing. The second cause for overheats after faulty water pumps are bad t'stats and/or clogged passages.

I would keep an eye out for trouble in the form of clogged passages. I think you had a either a minor problem or even a non-existent one made worse by this guy and his over use of sealant. 

I doubted this guys credentials when he told you to test the motor for overheating by running it and seeing if it will boil water. If it boils water at that point it is just as likely to be just as damaged as he said it would be if steam is coming out the pee hole. I didn't say anything at that point because until he gooped it up you had good water flow and you only had a concern for the temp of the stream.

Now you have a mechanic that clogged up the stream and who knows what else. I would at least get a laser temp sensor and run the motor in a tub and see if you get even cooling around the block. They are about 40 bucks at harbor freight but worth every penny just for the piece of mind.

By the way, are the bolts that where broken from the thermostat? I can't recall. I just have to wonder what his motive was for all the excess sealant.


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## rkmurphy

> Talked to a reputable Merc place today and explained the whole situation.  He said that as long as it's peeing, he doubts it's running hot and that if it is running hot to the point where the motor would start to get damaged, the pee stream would be non-existent and just steam shooting out.  He mentioned a good way to test if it's to hot is to run the motor wide open for a while and quickly take the cowling off.  Then, dip my hand in the water and drip water on the top of the cylinder block.  If it boils, it's too hot.
> 
> I hope he's right...I'll test it this weekend.
> 
> 
> 
> I've been rethinking this and I don't want to cause alarm but something is still bugging me about this.
> 
> First, I don't think that is a correct statement when he said "as long as it's peeing, he doubts it's running hot.." That just indicates that your water pump is still working. I believe that most motors bypass the t'stat because you need constant water cooling the exhaust.
> 
> The statement he made "if it is running hot to the point where the motor would start to get damaged, the pee stream would be non-existent and just steam shooting out." while very true you could also be damaging the the motor even if water is peeing. The second cause for overheats after faulty water pumps are bad t'stats and/or clogged passages.
> 
> I would keep an eye out for trouble in the form of clogged passages. I think you had a either a minor problem or even a non-existent one made worse by this guy and his over use of sealant.
> 
> I doubted this guys credentials when he told you to test the motor for overheating by running it and seeing if it will boil water. If it boils water at that point it is just as likely to be just as damaged as he said it would be if steam is coming out the pee hole. I didn't say anything at that point because until he gooped it up you had good water flow and you only had a concern for the temp of the stream.
> 
> Now you have a mechanic that clogged up the stream and who knows what else. I would at least get a laser temp sensor and run the motor in a tub and see if you get even cooling around the block. They are about 40 bucks at harbor freight but worth every penny just for the piece of mind.
> 
> By the way, are the bolts that where broken from the thermostat? I can't recall. I just have to wonder what his motive was for all the excess sealant.
Click to expand...

Bolts that were broken were from the thermostat, yes.

I love Harbor Freight...I purposely avoid it because I'll by power tools I don't need. I'll have to stop in and get that temp sensor, though.

I'm going to run it on Saturday. I'll know for sure, then, whether or not the problem is solved. It looks like the sealant problem may not be quite as bad as I thought, as I watched him put it on another gasket while I was there. But, still a possibility. Either way, not going back and will be watching the motor carefully the next few times I go out.


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## MATT

that motor is well known for running HOT. If you have ever tried to clean the shaft caseing there will aways be a white residue that will only get clean with some vinegar and scubing. this is from real hot salt water. Have fun fishing and don't worrie as long as it is still peeing.


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## rkmurphy

> that motor is well known for running HOT. If you have ever tried to clean the shaft caseing there will aways be a white residue that will only get clean with some vinegar and scubing. this is from real hot salt water. Have fun fishing and don't worrie as long as it is still peeing.


Thanks for the words of confidence. I'm taking it out tomorrow. Then it's going to be washed and polished and the cowling is going for a paint job. Then, new decals ;D


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## okchris

Sorry to jump on the thread and pose more questions, but I think I may have a thermostat issue similar to the one posed here. My problem is actually on my non-microskiff with a 2-stroke yam 150. the hot alarm/buzzer will go off after about 20 minutes of use, and I usually wait 10 minutes or so and then its fixed itself for the rest of the day, or sometimes it comes back on later. the water and engine temp during the problem is higher than normal. sound like bad thermostats to you guys? I probably only run the boat once a month or so. much appreciated


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## DuckNut

Rk-
When I lived in Tampa I found a retired mechanic in Gibsonton by the name of Dwight Shelton. He worked out of his shop in his back yard. Now he has bought Bullfrog Marina. I do not have a phone number handy but I can find one if you need me to.

Just to give you an idea what kind of mechanic he is, Tony Stewart and crew use his services and shop when they come to town to race at Gibsonton Raceway and prepare for Daytona.

Hope it helps and good luck.


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## rkmurphy

If you read my fishing report, here's the update I promised.

The motor overheated worse than ever this time.  Bud said last time there was sand in the system.  I'm calling BS on that.  I took the lower unit off and followed procedure according to the shop manual.  There are 2 nylon washers that sandwich the impeller with the impeller key inside.  One was missing.  It's a $15 washer that came with my housing assembly kit.  I went to Ace Hardware and got a nylon washer that I modified with a dremel tool to fit over the driveshaft.  It's a little thicker than the factory washer but I ran it for about 20 minutes on the hose with no issues.

The O-ring that goes in the housing was gunked in with sealant.  I removed all of the sealant and put it in the normal way...without any.  The gasket that goes under the backing plate that rests against the LU is definitely not a new one.  I scraped crap off the backing plate and LU and just reused the old gasket...seemed to seal up okay.

I back-flushed the water system with the LU off and nothing came out.  Sand?  Please...F-U.

Everything's put back together and I threadlocked the housing bolts and greased the LU bolts.

One thing I did notice is that when the entire housing assembly is off you can see where the driveshaft enters the LU.  It is a brass circular object with what looks like some sort of o-rings inside.  It all looks pretty corroded.  Normal?

Anyway...I should have done it myself in the first place...it was relatively easy.  Hopefully I didn't mess anything up.  But, the motor pees better now than it has since I got it back from Bud the last 3 times.  And when I increase the RPM, the stream gets better...like it's supposed to...go figure.

If only :

http://www.onlineoutboards.com/Tohatsu-40-hp-Outboards.html


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## B.Lee

That piece you asked about is the vertical driveshaft oil seal. If it looks bad, replace it. It is a servicable part, but very seldom gets serviced. It will cause major problems for you though.

That being said, I probably wouldn't pull it back apart to change it right away, next time you change the impeller, pick up a new seal too.

Good on taking upon yourself to remedy the issue. If you want something done right, you have to do it yourself. You'll pay more attention and take more pride in the job if you're working on your own stuff. Not that difficult at all.


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## rkmurphy

Would it be okay to put anything on the seals in the mean time.  WD-40 or PB Blaster to cut the corrosion and lube 'em up?

Edit:  Another issue...the thermostat that was put in is a 140 degree (or so...I know it's at least 140).  Both Crowley Marine AND boats.net carry a 120 degree thermostat for it.  Bud will be getting a call tomorrow and supplying me with a 120 degree thermostat free of charge .

Edit #2: This keeps getting better...the thermostat in there was 143 degrees. It takes a 120 degree. The thermostat cover has NO gasket...just goo. I removed the water jacket and found goo in there as well. I took a flashlight to inspect the water chambers only to find a loose glob of goo the size of a nickel. The water cover gasket was goo-ed on so, naturally, it's destroyed and needs to be replaced again after I spend untold amounts of time carefully scraping the old/new one off.


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## rkmurphy

> Would it be okay to put anything on the seals in the mean time.  WD-40 or PB Blaster to cut the corrosion and lube 'em up?
> 
> Edit:  Another issue...the thermostat that was put in is a 140 degree (or so...I know it's at least 140).  Both Crowley Marine AND boats.net carry a 120 degree thermostat for it.  Bud will be getting a call tomorrow and supplying me with a 120 degree thermostat free of charge .
> 
> Edit #2:  This keeps getting better...the thermostat in there was 143 degrees.  It takes a 120 degree.  The thermostat cover has NO gasket...just goo.  I removed the water jacket and found goo in there as well.  I took a flashlight to inspect the water chambers only to find a loose glob of goo the size of a nickel.  The water cover gasket was goo-ed on so, naturally, it's destroyed and needs to be replaced again after I spend untold amounts of time carefully scraping the old/new one off.


The repair manual made me do it :-[


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## Brett

[smiley=1-laugh.gif]


That's a great set of pictures. Looks just like my first 2 stroke
outboard after I wrapped a plastic bag around the lower unit.
Between the shop manual and the guy at the parts counter,
I gained one heck of an education in outboard repairs and maintenance.
Welcome to the club RK, what you're going through is cheaper than tradeschool.
Take your time, do it right, you'll end up with one sweet running engine.


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## rkmurphy

Haha once I started disassembling stuff I couldn't stop.  The motor needs a good cleaning inside and out.  There were pieces of sealant and even a good sized piece of the old water cover gasket in the water chambers.  They've been vacuumed out.  I cleaned the gaskets off carefully with a flat head and a low powered dremel tool with a mini-micro wire wheel.  Worked great without scoring the surface.

I have my work cut out for me with the cleaning and about $50 in parts to get.  Mostly gaskets.  I'm debating on whether or not to replace the upper driveshaft seal...I'm sure the general consensus is to just do it.  The brass sleeve that's corroded and actually holds the seal and bearing isn't carried as a new part anymore...so I'll have to make do with the one that's on there.

This is definitely going to be a project and I think it's safe to say I won't be getting on the water this weekend...with my boat at least.

Any tips?

Edit: Is a torque wrench necessary?


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## snooknreds2

torque wrench will be necessary to put it back together but you should own one anyways!!

As far as that brass sleeve. I have only replaced one and it was on a 2 hp johnson. I ended having to use a press to get it out. I am sure some one can give you more advice than that through.


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## Brett

If the shop manual requires tightening parts in a specific sequence
and to the proper torque setting, that's the way to do it. Otherwise
you're doing it wrong, and you've already seen how well that works.
You'll need two torque wrenches, one for foot/lbs, and one for inch/lbs.
The best is the click style wrench, but the old style beam wrench
works adequately, and is much less expensive.


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## rkmurphy

Bought my torque wrenches today (I love Harbor Freight tools...picked up both for ~$40 total) and some parts from online (boats.net). I'm going along with the whole "if it ain't broke don't fix it" thing. Had a short conversation with my grandfather about the situation and he basically said to fix what needed to be fixed and use the motor. That's definitely what I'm going to do. I'll, of course, test the motor on a local lake for a good while after I put it back together. Then back to fishing.

I want to clear something up. The motor didn't "seize" like I made it sound. I had looked back and saw that it was overheating and immediately shut it off. I used the trolling motor to get in. It had some time to cool down and when I got back to the ramp I tried to start it. It being a one-pull-start motor, wouldn't start except for the 4th or so pull. Now it's fine and the compression was still right on.

If there are any simple ways to check for piston/piston rod/bearing issues, let me know. But I'm really not wanting to pull the block apart and spend money on a flywheel puller.

Please keep the replies coming. I love the input.

Oh...and here's a pick of the upper driveshaft sleeve/seal on the LU:










Any thoughts?


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## deerfly

I was going to suggest removing the water cover and inspect/clean those ports when Frank mentioned the flushing thing. Smart move there and easy to do. 

Like I said on the other thread too, there is no easy way to check heat damage unless something is actually broken and banging around inside. With bearings, you have to inspect them. Discoloration/bluing is a sure sign of excessive heat. Scoring (scrape lines in the bearing) is a sign of debris in the crank case like small metal particles or sand, etc. Very fine lines along the angle of rotation are normal, its the deeper scratches among them that you have to be concerned about. If the bearings look OK visually they should be mic'd to see if they are still within tolerance too. Personally, if you do decide to open it up, I would just plan to replace them and you won't have to think about it again for another 10 years or so. 

On the other hand if you think everything is OK, just put it back together knowing you didn't check them.  :-/ Realize too, every time you go out and the farther you are from the dock the more you'll wonder if its really OK or not.  :-? Sort of kidding here, but you will have those thoughts and they might be warranted, but you won't know for sure until fails, or not.  Plus you now know the thermostat that was in there was too hot. Tough call, but again you're in this far...

Looking at the drive shaft seal, it doesn't look that bad to me. They get pretty ugly fast in saltwater. If its not leaking and/or there is no play or wobble, I wouldn't worry too much about that. Its easy to get to as well and can be changed on some rainy weekend when you feel like doing it. If it does happen to fail, its not a fatal problem, you can still get back to the ramp. Having it all apart though, this is a good time to do it, but I understand wanting to limit time and expense to only those things that more obviously need replacing. Good advice from your grandfather there. My dad and grandfather taught me the same way.   

You are doing great here though and I for one love to see this kind of ambition. Hopefully your efforts and results will inspire more guy's to do the same or at least understand and appreciate that it is doable for the typical weekend warrior. Unlike when you have someone else do the work, you'll have a true sense of comfort knowing what you did as opposed to a false sense of security wondering what "they" did or didn't do.   - eric


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## Un-shore

One time I threw my outboard into the bed of my truck and took it to a neighbor and borrowed his impact wrench and fly wheel puller, took like seven minutes. Maybe you could use a guilt trip to get your mechanic to zip it off for you.

This is going along good and I would hate to see what sounds like a motor that could last you a longtime get wrecked by something simple.

It may have nothing wrong but better safe than sorry. I'm going on 50 and can't count how many times I could have avoided disaster with something by a doing it right the first time.

Besides, you seem like a natural and keeping 2 strokes running will be a good skill to know as they quit making them. Good for you and people with cash. You know first hand how good mechanics are hard to find. 4 strokes wouldn't be that much more to learn.

I don't like to tell people what to do but you've come a long way to turn back now.


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## rkmurphy

Do you think this would work?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=37824

It's pretty similar to the "special tool" in the shop manual.

I don't know...this is just a little more involved than I wanted to get at the moment. I'm already more involved than I wanted to be...


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## rkmurphy

After messing with the motor and cleaning it up some today, I've decided against opening the block. I just don't have the proper tools or knowledge at the moment and I'm hoping since I was paying such close attention to the motor, there was no damage done.

As soon as I get my gaskets in the mail, I'm going to painstakingly reassemble everything. After that, I'll take it to Piper's Marine and have the carb tuned and timing adjusted (hopefully for cheap!). If all goes well and to plan (which it seldom does...), then I'd like to get on the water by next weekend.

Let's hope I don't get too aggravated with this thing...


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## Un-shore

I don't blame you, that is a lot of work and you seem pretty confident that you caught the overheating in time.


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## rkmurphy

Confident...eh...hopeful...VERY. Haha. Today I did a lot of observing and wiped off the gasket surfaces and smoothed them out with the micro wire wheel. I also cleaned A LOT of carbon from various areas, shot some Power Tune into the carb where the fuel hose goes in, and cleaned most of the carbon out of the mid section (it was horrendous). The rest is a waiting game until the gaskets come in. Piper's Marine told me to not even worry about the timing or carb since I didn't disassemble the block or carb. Wouldn't it be nice if I could just bolt it back together and have it work perfectly? If only, if only...

Will keep you all updated. And keep the input coming! I'm always willing to listen and learn.


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## rkmurphy

Got the parts in today and putting everything back together now. Hit a couple road bumps:

1) The bolts that go through the thermostat housing into the powerhead were too short (thanks yet again Bud). I found this out by looking into the shop manual and finding the correct size. Apparently it's a popular size because I went to 2 Home Depots tonight (only stores that were open at 9:30pm) and each had just one that I had to search for. Both stores had one left that were misplaced...lucky me 

2) Not only was the powerhead a pain in the a** to position right and in sync with the gasket, my new torque wrench wouldn't fit in the indentation to get the correct lb ft for the powerhead bolts. So I had to just take my smaller ratchet and torque them as tight as I could without stripping the head (was still at a slight angle with the smaller ratchet).

I've been greasing all of the bolt except the ones that the shop manual calls for something different. I see one possible problem area at the water cover that might cause some leakage but we'll see.

The motor's starting to take shape again...it's nice. Haha. Hopefully I can get it finished up tomorrow and everything works without a flaw. But...we all know how that goes. If I can get it to a point where I can hook it up to the hose tomorrow I'll make a video.

By the way. On the lower unit upper driveshaft seal(s), I noticed that the shop manual called for "2-4-C w/ teflon" in it's installation. From what I found, it's basically just a marine grease. So I put some marine grease on the visible part of the seal. Maybe it will condition it some...who knows...I figured it wouldn't hurt.


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## snooknreds2

Thank is awesome, I am waiting for your next post anxiously!!!


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## rkmurphy

> Thank is awesome, I am waiting for your next post anxiously!!!


At least someone is watching! Haha. Well I ran it for a minute and the water leak I suspected did, in fact, leak. I went to Ace and got some Permatex gasket sealant and lightly coated the bad area around the thermostat bolt hole, the matching area of the water cover, and the thermostat housing. Then I torqued all to 110 in lbs and apply more sealant around the area on the outside.

I ran it again but apparently the 10 minutes of cure time I gave it wasn't enough. It worked great at first but started to lightly leak again. So, I coated the outside again and this time I'm going to let it sit for a couple of days.

While it was working, I could visibly see the thermostat opening and closing as it was when I first got it. But, this time, the flow seemed a little better. Once it started to leak, the flow changes and gets lighter. I'm guessing it's significant enough to cause a drop in water pressure. I'll have to keep it eye on it the first few times out.

I didn't run it long enough to make a video, today, but I'll make one Friday unless there's any issues.


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## Tom_C

Have you tested your overtemp alarm to made sure it works.


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## rkmurphy

> Have you tested your overtemp alarm to made sure it works.


I honestly don't think mine has one...can't find anything in the shop manual about it.


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## Brett

How surprised were you when the engine started? :-?

If you can't get a real water gasket to seal, a lil' dab of this will do it.

http://www.permatex.com/products/Automotive/automotive_gasketing/specialty_gasket_maker/MotoSeal_1_Ultimate_Gasket_Maker_Grey.htm


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## snooknreds2

I bet you felt great when it started up [smiley=beavis-bang-your-head.gif] [smiley=cool2.gif] [smiley=chicken.gif] [smiley=dancing-smilie.gif] [smiley=dancing3.gif] [smiley=hammer.gif]


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## rkmurphy

> I bet you felt great when it started up [smiley=beavis-bang-your-head.gif] [smiley=cool2.gif] [smiley=chicken.gif] [smiley=dancing-smilie.gif] [smiley=dancing3.gif] [smiley=hammer.gif]


OH YEAH! Took a 4 or so pulls but it had been emptied of all fuel before I disassembled it. It actually idled relatively nicely (for a 2-smoke). The second time I went to start it, I pulled it 3 times and it wouldn't start...I was like "what's going on here". Stupid me forgot to put the dad gom plug wires back on. Put 'em on and first pull...actually more like a half pull.

Still waited for that sealant to cure. Added another layer last night. Hopefully it's done curing by tonight. If this doesn't work, I'll try the stuff Brett suggested.


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## snooknreds2

I bet you feel great!!  now you know how to fix or jerry rig just about anything on the motor.  You know every screw is tight, and everything is where it belongs... you now have confidence in your motor, which that feeling is PRICELESS!!!!!


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## deerfly

haven't been following along so much but I'm glad to see you have it running now. Get that leak taken care of and get out there and enjoy the fruits of your labor.


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## rkmurphy

Ok...finally the video(s) I promised. After the first crap sealant didn't work, I took the almighty Brett's suggestion and went and got a good gasket maker. I took the water cover back off, cleaned off the old sealant with some alcohol, wiped everything off with water, and then dried. I applied the gasket maker (Permatex "The Right Stuff") carefully to the mating surfaces and liberally to the outside imperfections. I allowed it to dry for around 2 hours (dries in 15 min and fully cures in about 24 hours). I just got done testing it and it worked! Now I just need to knock on wood...

Here are a couple videos...the first shows the thermostat maintaining idle temp (it just trickles out weakly) and the second shows the thermostat fully open after reaching 120 degrees and shooting out. These motors, apparently, are known for the tell tale visibly showing that the thermostat is functioning.

Video 1:


Video 2:


A couple of concerns...

In the first video I put the camera up so you could see the water flowing out of the LU where the shift shaft goes up...is this normal?

In the second video, I noticed there is no water splatter coming from the exhaust relief and I zoomed on this...is this normal, too?

Everything went fairly smoothly with this whole take apart/put back together process (there were plenty of frustrations, of course). The worst, probably, was today went I had shut down the motor after running it for a while to give it a look over. I then decided to start it back up. After about 10 seconds I realized I didn't turn the d*mn hose back on. Luckily it's a new impeller and it wasn't dry, as I had just run it.

Lastly, I checked the compression at normal temp. Top cylinder = ~117 psi w/ 4 pulls and ~122 psi w/ 5 pulls. Bottom cylinder = ~120 psi w/ 4 pulls and ~122 w/ 5 pulls.

To those that have been paying attention and especially those who have helped: THANKS!!

And Humpty Dumpty got put back together, again ;D


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## Brett

Exhaust relief operates when the lower unit is submerged.
It relieves the back pressure caused by the prop exhaust opening being covered by water.
With the hose hooked up, water dumps out everywhere.

Feel better now? You learned a bunch, saved money and can now solve your own engine problems.


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## rkmurphy

> Exhaust relief operates when the lower unit is submerged.
> It relieves the back pressure caused by the prop exhaust opening being covered by water.
> With the hose hooked up, water dumps out everywhere.
> 
> Feel better now? You learned a bunch, saved money and can now solve your own engine problems.


What a "relief". Haha. Ok...that was stupid...

I want to try to take it out to a local lake tomorrow or Sunday and see how she runs on the water. Better charge the TM battery just in case! I'll make a video when I run it, too. Let's hope for the best...

And if you have any comments, advice, etc. about the videos or anything in my last update...please keep them coming!


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## iMacattack

Great work!


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## Tom_C

> And Humpty Dumpty got put back together, again  ;D


Great job Humpty [smiley=1-thumbsup1.gif]


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## noeettica

Definate Cudos are in Order ... Espesically Since Mercury Guards Their Technacal Information So freakin Well ...

The Shift rod was a mystery to me Once I learned about The Hook and the "secret Washer Trick " I had it made 

Dave


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## rkmurphy

Just got back from running it at the lake. IT PEE'S! It pee's like it's supposed to! You can visibly see the thermostat slightly open at idle and as the RPM increase, the temp increases, and the thermostat open more. At WOT it shoots out great. It doesn't look like it's fading anymore, even in heavy wind (it was rainy, too).

Here are some crap videos but you'll get the gist...

In video 1, at the beginning, you'll here a whistly kind of sound. It doesn't do it all the time...comes and goes. Don't know what that is but listen for it and tell me if you have any ideas. It has done it for a while. The camera work sucks...I was by myself and couldn't get situated...so I apologize for that.



In video 2, I had to cut video 1 short because the ride started to get wet. But I had just stopped, turned the camera on right away, and put my hand under the tell tale. It doesn't melt my flesh anymore!



It was definitely a proud day. It made me realize that the motor has been running hot since I took it to Bud. I don't think it ever "overheated" (at least I hope not!) except for that last time when I caught it quick. I hope there's no internal damage to the motor...hopefully these Merc's "bulletproof" persona holds up. I ran the motor with the wind at WOT for probably 10-15 straight with no mercy. I then stopped quick and put my hand under the stream and it was good. Just the right temp (well...as far as I know). I ran around for a good hour and the videos I made were from the last 15 minutes or so.

I got home and flushed the motor for about 5 minutes (I know I was in freshwater but it's just a habit...) and then tested the compression one last time while attempting to hold the throttle plate WOT. Bottom cylinder was 125 psi w/ 5 pulls and top I lost hold of the throttle plate and only got like 110 psi w/ 5 pulls. So I released the air from the tester and tested it again...~122-123 psi w/ 5 pulls. Next time I test it I'll just disconnect the shift linkage and use the tiller to hold it WOT...it will probably be a more accurate test.

So, thanks again everyone! Let me know what you think about that noise in video 1 and give me any input you think I may need.


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## rkmurphy

> Just got back from running it at the lake.  IT PEE'S!  It pee's like it's supposed to!  You can visibly see the thermostat slightly open at idle and as the RPM increase, the temp increases, and the thermostat open more.  At WOT it shoots out great.  It doesn't look like it's fading anymore, even in heavy wind (it was rainy, too).
> 
> Here are some crap videos but you'll get the gist...
> 
> In video 1, at the beginning, you'll here a whistly kind of sound.  It doesn't do it all the time...comes and goes.  Don't know what that is but listen for it and tell me if you have any ideas.  It has done it for a while.  The camera work sucks...I was by myself and couldn't get situated...so I apologize for that.
> 
> 
> 
> In video 2, I had to cut video 1 short because the ride started to get wet.  But I had just stopped, turned the camera on right away, and put my hand under the tell tale.  It doesn't melt my flesh anymore!
> 
> 
> 
> It was definitely a proud day.  It made me realize that the motor has been running hot since I took it to Bud.  I don't think it ever "overheated" (at least I hope not!) except for that last time when I caught it quick.  I hope there's no internal damage to the motor...hopefully these Merc's "bulletproof" persona holds up.  I ran the motor with the wind at WOT for probably 10-15 straight with no mercy.  I then stopped quick and put my hand under the stream and it was good.  Just the right temp (well...as far as I know).  I ran around for a good hour and the videos I made were from the last 15 minutes or so.
> 
> I got home and flushed the motor for about 5 minutes (I know I was in freshwater but it's just a habit...) and then tested the compression one last time while attempting to hold the throttle plate WOT.  Bottom cylinder was 125 psi w/ 5 pulls and top I lost hold of the throttle plate and only got like 110 psi w/ 5 pulls.  So I released the air from the tester and tested it again...~122-123 psi w/ 5 pulls.  Next time I test it I'll just disconnect the shift linkage and use the tiller to hold it WOT...it will probably be a more accurate test.
> 
> So, thanks again everyone!  Let me know what you think about that noise in video 1 and give me any input you think I may need.


What happened to my audience?


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## iMacattack

Mine whistled like that...


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## Kemo

What happened to your audience? We're still here, buddy! I'm glad you've seemed to have solved your problem, and there's nothing like the perserverance you've shown. Congrats. 

Kemo


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