# 25 HP on 16' Jon Boat



## FLAggie (Sep 5, 2016)

Thoughts on 25 HP motor on SeaArk 1660 Tunnel, will be tiller set up. Mostly solo, occasional 2nd person. Will boat be under powered. Suggestions are welcome


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## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

Yes, it will be under-powered but do-able... Most 16’s will want a 40 horse motor...


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## Hogprint (Feb 23, 2020)

A 25 will work as lemaymiami said especially if you’re mainly solo. Having said that I have a 40hp on my 16‘. Here is a Hp/Weight Ratio chart. It may help you make a better informed decision.
I’m getting ready to sell that boat and have been looking at a similar setup as you’re looking at. My dad has been after me to just settle for a 25...better on gas, no long runs, and save some scratch...I just don’t want to go too underpowered. Good luck!


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## FLAggie (Sep 5, 2016)

I have read numerous post regarding 16' set up running with a 25 HP motor, understand no one every says, wish i had less power, but 25 HP would be better on gas and save some money compared to a 40 or 50 HP. At the same time be good to have that added power in a situation where you might need it.


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

I have owned a 1652 Seaark which for a time I ran on 25 hp. It was slow, topping out at about 22 mph with just me and my gear. With three fisherman and full gear it was very difficult to even get on plane. I would guess that a 1660 would perform even worse. If you fish mostly solo and are economy minded, a 1660 is too big. You could get away with a 14 footer and 15 hp. If you really want to get best performance out of 25 hp, take a look at the G3 1548 VBW.


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## Mako 181 (May 1, 2020)

I always say get the biggest motor you can.
You don't have to run at WOT and it will last longer.
Speed Kills.....


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## redchaser (Aug 24, 2015)

I had a 16 foot Carolina skiff (J16) with a Yamaha 25 2 stroke and it was a great match. Got on plane quickly and easily and ran right at 30mph solo


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## Shallows (Mar 29, 2020)

FLAggie said:


> I have read numerous post regarding 16' set up running with a 25 HP motor, understand no one every says, wish i had less power, but 25 HP would be better on gas and save some money compared to a 40 or 50 HP. At the same time be good to have that added power in a situation where you might need it.


Aggie, I have owned several boats in this range now - with a brand new 25hp Yamaha you should be able to run 25mph max with RPM topped out - just yourself and light gear (no trolling motor or extra batteries etc.); that would mean a comfortable cruising RPM range would be around 20 mph.

That is okay performance, but I think you would be much happier with a 30-40hp Yamaha as they jump way up in cubic centimeters on those models (from roughly 430 to 747), so the torque and power delivery should just be so much better than the 25hp model.

You can continue reading posts, but like Lemay and Vertigo both said you may come to really regret not spending that extra thousand to get a larger outboard.


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## Hank (Jan 14, 2019)

I think one of the important features of a 16’ range jon boat is light weight evenly distributed. A 40hp motor weighs lots more than a 25 and its all concentrated at the stern. Not such a problem when on plane bit less than desirable when stationary. For most people, the bright spot of this kind of boat is a less is more strategy, simplicity over features and speed. A tiller gives more room in the boat but works against good weight distribution.

One downside of any light boat is that it might hunt and deflect more than a heavier boat in wind or quartering conditions. Especially when solo with a tiller set up. The bow gets light and sensitive. Faster does not change this much. Heavier in the stern makes it worse. Of course this can be fixed by your set up. But fixing this usually involves adding weight up front to balance out the motor. Now you have a heavy boat.

So, you have to balance and trim the boat out. You will note a big difference in set up for solo or two anglers. And there is only so much you can change around on a small boat. 

The 1660 is a fairly heavy boat in its class because of the thick welded hull. A 40 won’t be wrong, but I think you will end up as a practical matter setting the boat up as if you were fishing two people. And I would opt for a small console over a tiller. If I wanted small and light I would get a 1648 light hulled boat with a tiller 20 or 25 that was as light as I could get.


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

Here are a few shots to add to the debate. The first is my 1652 SeaArk with sponsons and a 30 hp Tohatsu. It was underpowered. The second shot is my 1660 SeaArk with a 60 hp Merc. It was powered right. Note: Even with sponsons and a lighter motor, the 1652 floats lower in the stern. The 1660 carries weight in the stern very well.


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## FLAggie (Sep 5, 2016)

Vertigo said:


> Here are a few shots to add to the debate. The first is my 1652 SeaArk with sponsons and a 30 hp Tohatsu. It was underpowered. The second shot is my 1660 SeaArk with a 60 hp Merc. It was powered right. Note: Even with sponsons and a lighter motor, the 1652 floats lower in the stern. The 1660 carries weight in the stern very well.
> 
> Where did you purchase your grab bar, I know SeaArk does not offer that as a factory accessory option.
> 
> ...


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## Finn Maccumhail (Apr 9, 2010)

I had an Alumacraft 1648 with a mod-v and a 25hp Yammy 4-stroke tiller for a number of years. I didn't find it under-powered but then I wasn't trying to have a super go-fast rig. IIRC, it would top out in the mid-20's with 2 guys and gear. But it was easy on fuel consumption, floated skinny, and got us into the back marshes all over the Upper Texas Coast where the reds hung out. It poled skinny as hell (but loud) but I caught a lot of reds and shot a lot of ducks out of it.


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## FLAggie (Sep 5, 2016)

Happened to stop in at local marina they had a used SeaArk 1652 which a customer purchased used for 6 months then decided to trade in for a bay boat. SeaArk 1652 MV, line-x, base plates, bow storage, 25hp Yamaha, aluminium trailer asking $10,500, simple set up, I would add electrical package and jack plate. Don't know if not having a tunnel should be deal breaker. Priced out MVT 1660 with floor, line X, electrical package, bilge pumps, flotation pods, bow storage, rear lid, Yamaha 40 hp tiller gas assist, bobs jack plate, trailer, trolling motor bracket, total $17,800.


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## Mako 181 (May 1, 2020)

I have had a few 1648's with a 50 HP (cowling says 45 but) tiller 2 stroke on the back. It was fine with 2 adults on the rear seat with a custom 16 gallon fuel tank behind the seat. Had a lot of weight up front. - No wood all alum decking


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## Hank (Jan 14, 2019)

FLAggie said:


> Happened to stop in at local marina they had a used SeaArk 1652 which a customer purchased used for 6 months then decided to trade in for a bay boat. SeaArk 1652 MV, line-x, base plates, bow storage, 25hp Yamaha, aluminium trailer asking $10,500, simple set up, I would add electrical package and jack plate. Don't know if not having a tunnel should be deal breaker. Priced out MVT 1660 with floor, line X, electrical package, bilge pumps, flotation pods, bow storage, rear lid, Yamaha 40 hp tiller gas assist, bobs jack plate, trailer, trolling motor bracket, total $17,800.


The 1652 sounds like a winner to me.


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## FLAggie (Sep 5, 2016)

Is a Jack Plate still effective when running shallow water with out a tunnel?


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