# Getting Rid of Molded Non-Skid to go With Painted Non-Skid



## paint it black (Nov 3, 2007)

Hello, as I'm near to finishing my project, I was thinking of upgrading from the old molded in gelcoat non-skid on my deck, to the newer painted on kind. When I was glassing the new wood onto the deck liner, I used some screws to make sure it was secure and got any air out from between the wood and glass. So now, there's several screws poking out the liner. I think it would be a real pain to grind the screws, and try to match the non skid in so many places. I was wondering if anyone on here has done this. I was thinking of getting a D/A palm sander with sand paper and sanding it smooth. But I don't know if I should even try? I'm not a big fan of the look of the molded non-skid, and it's also a real pain to clean. I have also wondered about sanding down the textured non-skid, and putting Sea Dek instead. How much does Sea Dek cost? Is it worth it? Or should I go with the painted on non-skid?

Thanks,
-Eric


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

Sanding is sanding....few consider it fun.
I used the Interlux topside with non-skid on the Slipper.
So far so good. We'll see in a year if I say the same thing.
Sea-Dek pricing below:

http://www.seadekstore.com/largesheets.aspx


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## paint it black (Nov 3, 2007)

> Sanding is sanding....few consider it fun.
> I used the Interlux topside with non-skid on the Slipper.
> So far so good. We'll see in a year if I say the same thing.
> Sea-Dek pricing below:
> ...



Sounds good. I was thinking about using the non skid from Interlux. I would assume it's roll on? It's not sprayable is it?


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

Interlux topside non-skid paint has the non-skid micro-spheres
already added to the paint. I used an ultra-fine foam, gloss finish,
small diameter roller and did not thin to apply. Temps were cool
enough so that it didn't skin over for more than 15 minutes.
Regular mixing was needed to keep the grit in suspension.
Not meant to be sprayed. You can purchase standard topside
paint and buy the non-skid micro-spheres seperately.
Add the non-skid to the paint as needed before applying.


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## paint it black (Nov 3, 2007)

> Interlux topside non-skid paint has the non-skid micro-spheres
> already added to the paint. I used an ultra-fine foam, gloss finish,
> small diameter roller and did not thin to apply. Temps were cool
> enough so that it didn't skin over for more than 15 minutes.
> ...



I had seen the one that already came mixed. I was looking into getting that. Do you the exact name of the product? And price range, and colors? I know you're the master. I'm not sure if I should go with a flat white, a light gray, or light teal (if they have it). The hull will be two toned white with light teal sides, silver and black lettering, white with black webbing in the compartments.


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

Heres a pic...

http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/FinishingTheGrassSlipper#5295302015272758610

Check West Marine, Lowes, Boaters World sites for prices and colors.


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## paint it black (Nov 3, 2007)

> Heres a pic...
> 
> http://picasaweb.google.com/bdefalco/FinishingTheGrassSlipper#5295302015272758610
> 
> Check West Marine, Lowes, Boaters World sites for prices and colors.



I tried sanding an area of the molded textured non skid on my deck. It appears that there's not much to sand before hitting bare fiberglass. Do you know if SeaDek would stick to the textured non-skid? I don't think it would, but it's worth a shot asking. I just did all the measurements. I would need to buy two of the large sheets of 77" x 39" and I should have just enough to do the floor. I would need smaller pieces for the poling and casting platform. 

If not, I'm going to have to use some sort of putty to fill in the texture then prime it.


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

Tape it, sand it, then put a gloss coat of epoxy over it.
Then Sea-Dek on top...yes-no-maybe?


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## paint it black (Nov 3, 2007)

> Tape it, sand it, then put a gloss coat of epoxy over it.
> Then Sea-Dek on top...yes-no-maybe?


Seems like that'll work. Seems fairly simple too. Will the epoxy stick to gel coat? Lol this non-skid is going to cost me an arm and a leg. Over $200 for Sea-Dek, and about $60 for epoxy? I don't understand epoxy resins though. There's so many different things I've seen that I don't know what's what. Some are cheaper than others by a moderate margin.


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

MAS low viscosity epoxy and slow hardener, 2:1 mix ratio
apply with an ultra-fine foam roller
that's how I obtained the smooth finish on the Slipper.
3 ounces covers 12 square feet on the first coat, more or less.
Spring time temps means set time about 25 minutes,
cure time 24 hours.
Sand the area to coat to smoothness, clean well.
Epoxy will stick to sanded gelcoat and sanded polyester resin.

If you are good at it, you could roll and tip acetone thinned gelcoat and modifier C.


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## paint it black (Nov 3, 2007)

I went ahead and just said screw it and picked up some of this paint and nonskid additive. I was going to go with Interlux bright side, but they didn't have a nice grey color. The only platinum they carry from interlux is the two part one. And it was a bit pricey for right now. I'll probably still go with Sea-Dek in the long run anyway. This silver color for the non-skid will help with the glare off the gloss white deck. The sides of the boat will be teal, but the lettering would be in silver, as well as parts of the upholstery.


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## mark_gardner (Mar 18, 2009)

i used the interlux and mixed in the grit, rolled it on the mud minnow with a thin napped roller with decent results. i have since had to go back and fill some hole as i relocated a few things , touched up the areas useing the same technic and alls good [smiley=1-thumbsup3.gif]


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