# Here is my 14 ft mitchell project any others out their?



## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

You can use warm vinegar to clean up wet resin off your hands and tools, it works great and won't chew up your skin too much. Plus it's like $2 a gallon.


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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

Thanks for the info. I've just came from another bout with the resin/fiberglass application. I'll try it next time.


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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

Here is more pics of my transom repairs and a bug that is now apart of my repairs HA! HA! HA! 1 down and billions to go.
Mudd Minnow


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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

Here is the latest and greatest on my skiff dated Nov 14. 
The first 2 shots I flipped the hull over after sanding the transom and added the top without the center peice.
















This is my vision of the future shot the area where I'm standing will have a hatch that covers the opening completely so It will be a full flat deck.








This is the whole view of how it will be sitting in the water vision with all the hatches in place. This will have a full covered deck.









Mudd Minnow


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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

So, here is what I'm looking to do. I want to sandwich (2) 1/4 pcs of BC ply wood toghther. I want to fiberglass in between them to get some strength w/ no flex. After that, I want to fiberglass the out sides of the 2 pcs and give them strength and water proof. Because my hull is 5 ft across and 14 ft long, I'm going to lay 4 pcs of ply down on the ground side by side to come up with the total length of 8 ft wide x 16 ft length. then I want to make another that will cross the seams and sandwich them w/fiberglass. Any Ideas


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

I'm worried you may be exceeding the hull design load capacity.
Have you calculated how much plywood and glass weight you've added?


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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

No....I'm lookin to add several ribs for support and on the sids where the deck meets the hull I'm putting some 2x4 wood fiberglassed to the hull sides for support. I think that should be good. What do you think?

Mudd Minnow


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

Weigh that baby...see how much you've got already.
Bathroom scales can get the job done, one under the bow
another under the stern to get the total hull weight.

You don't want a destroyer, you're trying for a hovercraft...


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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

HA! HA! HA!...The hull looks like a destroyer but, Thanks I'm so focused on the constuction, I'm not thinkng of the weight. The only thing I have done was added a transom and some fiberglass to patch the holes on the hull. The top pictured is just sheets I had to give me a look see how it will be completed when I'm done. Thanks for watching my back. I want to fish the flats not plow thew them.

Mudd Minnow


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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

here is a diagram I'm thinking about...If it comes through








(8) 1/4 sheets of bc ply wood laminated together (4of them) cut 4x6
(2) 2x4 ribs down the side to attach the deck to (see arrows)
4 1/4 in frame work all fiberglassed and such. Ideas?


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

See if you can cut your framing down to a minimum.
Curve your decks so that the shape of the plywood
gives you the rigidity you want. You might be able to
get away with a single layer of 1/4 inch ply. Think eggshell.
Plywood only likes to bend in one direction,
once bent into a curve, it resists any other bending.

For estimation purposes, plywood weighs approximately:
3 lbs per square foot per 1 inch of thickness.
Measure your lumber and calculate the load.


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## jimbarn1961 (Aug 2, 2009)

A 4' by 8' by 1/4" thick sheet weighs about 25 pounds times 8 sheets equals 200 pounds before even adding in glass and materials and additional support structure for all your decking.  That is like having an extra BIG GUY with you on every trip before you even leave the dock.  Slower overall, throw your shallow draft that boat is good for out the window and more expensive on the gas bill to run.  You have got a beautiful starting point, I would seriously reconsider feasibility or redesigning for better numbers.  I think you are asking more then hull was designed to give you.


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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

Thanks for the info. I'll weigh everything so I can to get a good est.


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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

Yeah...I think you guys are right...
Here is my pirameters:
1. Decking the complete hull to walk on and have no flex.
(no flex could happen if I pre-flex the deck to a slight bow so the water would flow twords the sides of deck.) and If I go with structural fiberglass biax cloth 1708 that would help with the flex. 

Should I put it on the top or bottom of the deck? What do ya think?


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

Yes ;D 

I'd use 6 ounce tooling cloth on the decks
over and under, once it was flexed.


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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

Sounds good, I'm trying to figure out how I'm going to do this.
1. mount my deck. install screws (Do not cut out hatches)
2. Coat top with cloth and epoxy resin not polyester ( for strength)
3. After curing time, then remove the deck and ribs mounted to it, flip it over and coat the bottom. The top will keep it's curved shape. Sounds easy butttttt....... does this sound right?


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## FSUfisher (Jul 16, 2007)

The way you are prestressing your plywood, it seems it would be hard to get both sides glassed with a consistent bend. I wonder if it is possible to lay the wood over a 2x4 for a few days beforehand to try to induce some bending before you glass. Also, I'm not sure if Brett mentioned it, but you want to make sure you have the bend going perpendicular to the grain, not parallel. The latter scenario will certainly cause your plywood to split along the grain. 

Also, plywood performs better in compression than tension. Depending on how you are supporting it and where you are likely to be adding weight to it may make the difference on how critical your fiberglass layup is on either side of the wood. One final thing: 2x4s are way overkill. I recently completed a deck supported by 2x4s and the thing is heavy. In my case I was kind of going for the battleship approach...


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

1x4 cross braces all with the same arch/radius cut along the top
with the plywood exterior grains parallel with the cross braces
Epoxy between the plywood and cross frames, then screwed, clamped, weighted or tacked.
After the plywood bonds overnight to the cross frames
Glass over the top, let harden, flip, fillet along the cross frame plywood joints
let harden, sand, glass underside...make sense?


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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

YEAP! Thanks, Can't stay long but will keep you guys posted. Thanks for all the help. Sorry to chat and run.
Mudd minnow


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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

Hello everyone, The 2x4x14 I was going to use will be cut into a triangle piece 14 ft long. I was looking to get a wider mounting edge than just the fiberglass thickness of the hull. The side and frame work. In the 2nd photo, you can see the edge that curves around the top of the hull. My deck will rest on top and underneath on the inside will be the triangle piece. The plywood which grain runs different ways I wanted to mount like in my drawing the (bottom deck) because the hull is 5 ft wide and ply is 4 ft wide. I wonder if the 1/4 inch ply will flex even with the structural fiberglass.
What do you guys think?


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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

here is my drawing...I hope









This shows my 2x4x14 ft into triangle pieces ripped down, and the plywood mounting location. Now between ribs 2 and 3, (total 3 ft apart) their will be a large removable hatch and a false floor I'll build to stand on while driving the boat. I want to put the hatch back into place to walk on while fishing.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

I have 1/2" arched 5lb foam with glass on both sides 46" wide and have zero flex.


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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

WOW! You got my attension. How did you make this and can you send pics of build?


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Here is a true engineering feat that was done in my driveway in Ft. Lauderdale.

What I built was a top deck for the bow of my boat and it was a triangle like yours.  I built mine with a curve, not flat.

After I had the foam cut to size plus a little extra I took some ratchet straps and went around the piece to get the curve I wanted.  Then I bought 3 bags of sand and made a pile on the ground and covered it with visqueen.  Then I took the curved piece and rubbed it into the pile until it was solid and the sand was all the way to the top of the sides.  This created the male mold.  I then took the straps off, slobbered resin on the foam and laid the foam back over the mold.  Then I added the glass, slobbered more resin and covered with another sheet of visqueen.  Smoothed everything out and piled the remaing sand on the top of the visqueen and therfore smashing the piece fully into the mold.  I did have to add some extra weight (bricks).  Once it dried I disassembled the pile and cleaned up the mess and I ended up with the curve I wanted.  I then finished glassing the top (I did use two layers of 6oz on the botton; 1 layer of 6oz on top and 1 layer of 15oz to get an anti slip finish), ground to the final size and installed.

I created a piece with different radius curvature.  The front has a slight curve over a 10" span and the back has a 2 1/2" curve over the 46" and the piece is about 49" from front to back.


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## Peter2006 (Jul 23, 2009)

> Here is my current 14 ft mitchell project. I'm decking the whole thing and putting a 35 hp Johnson military motor on back. Here is what's done so far.
> Repaired transom, patched holes, Glued hair, fingers, and got sticky stuff in places I don't want to mention here but I also have acitone to clean up, thank god for acitone and spell check. Here's some pics.
> 
> 
> ...


Don't use any acetone or solvent to clean up your hands. Use Surgical gloves and the vinegar trick.
Some of us already are killing our liver with beer while working on our boat but Acetone kills it faster.

I'm going to build one of these next after my Indian River is done.


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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

Too late.....But, I'll remember for the next time. I've enjoied this first time build and I have a greater respect for boat builders. I use to work at Regal Boats in Orlando but this has been more fun than a barrel of monkeys.


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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

Just wondering is this how the boat builders do it? This is to easy I think so I've learned when it is too easy than ask because I'm doing something wrong or the hard way. I'm using cardboard to make my frame work templates. I'll cut my wood next week when I have money. 

In the photo of my front deck area, the distance between the nose of the hull and the frame is 46 inches. As you can see the sides are close and will be fiberglassed as well as the would and fiberglass decking 2 pcs of 1/4 inch sandwiched together with structural fiberglass and epoxy. Do you think it will flex or not? Any thoughts.

















Mudd Minnow


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

You seem to be adding so much weight that it may exceed it's capacities.

You do not need to go to the floor to get enough support for the deck. A 1x2 18" apart might be sufficient. Gluing two 1/4's together is more work than using a single 1/2 to begin with. What about a 3/8"? Just might need to tighten spacing to 15". Go to the store and put some boards on the floor at 18" and 15", lay the 3/8" on it and walk on it. Remember that the plywood is stronger with the grain than against and you can do this test at home since you already have some ply at home.

After you get the cross braces in, cut out the seats that are currently in there to remove some of the weight. Don't cut them out until you have the sides tied together or you may get a very unsightly looking craft. 

Don't forget your floatation foam.


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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

Hey DuckNut,
Thanks for the input. The reason I'm going to the floor on some pieces is for strength like in aft section of the hull. This I'll have 1/4 ply with fiberglassed matt and paint it with epoxy paint. Places I've got pictured with the cardboard, some places will be cut out but I need the strength to hold the deck and spand the distance like bulkhead 2 and 3. Both will have a large cutout for the gas tank and storage also, this is where I'll be standing/sitting while driving but a hatch will cover the entire distance to walk on while fishing. I might do some cutting after I fiberglass the bulkheads in place to keep the structural strength. They also add shelving and hidden hatches for storage or safe areas that would get damaged by things bouncing around. I'll try to draw up some plans that people can see to get a better picture of my idea.

Mudd Minnow


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## logandorn (Nov 27, 2010)

because i'm too lazy to look for myself but whats the beam on you boat


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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

Here is my floor plan for the bulkheads layout. 
#1 bulkhead is the transom #2 is shown cutout so you can see #3 plan for the hole









Hey lojjan, my length is 14 ft and 4 ft wide. I'm going to add 6 inches to each side to make it seem wider and to build a spray rail so I won't get so soaked (I'm Praying). I see these boats on craigslist all the time but If your looking for a skiff about what amount are you looking to spend for the hull. The reason I ask is because I was talking to a manufacture in Orlando who is building a 16 ft 5 ft beam 25 hp boat with no thrills. I think he said the hull goes for $5000.00 basic no motor and it runs shallow.
Mudd Minnow


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## gheen_with_envy (Oct 12, 2008)

@mudminnow, this looks like its goin to turn out to be an awesome skiff, but a military johnson on it, thats so sick you gotta post some pics of that soon!!! -Gheen with envy.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

I really don't think you need that many bulkheads, I'd get rid of a few and design some underdeck supports to save weight. 
For the decks themselves I used 3/8" with 6oz cloth on each side. Same for my floor. The decks had some flex because I didn't build supports. it was bonded on the sides and had a span between the bulkheads of about 38" if I remember correctly. My buddy is 270lbs and I'm 230lbs and we both were standing on it one day with no issues. The floor was pretty rock solid because I had supports spaced 14" apart under it. My new boat I'll be building a support system.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

Here it is before I put the deck on









and after it was finished


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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

That's a nice skiff. 
The bulkheads with my Mitchell are going to be fiberglassed to the bench seating. I could have cut everything out but, I wanted to keep the structural integrety while I built it. I know I have a lot of bulkheads but it doesn't weight much to keep the bench seats in there. It also, adds shelving and protective storage for my radio and stuff. Most likely after I'm finished, I'll add foam on the floor and in several compartments.
I'll try to get shots of my motor tomorrow during ther day and post them. I've got to get my Drivers license renewed tomorrow. It's my birthday.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

If you are dead set on leaving the seats in, then consider using them as support. Ditch the bulkhead on each side and make one that extends from the seat to the deck. Then cut notches and run a 1x2 (with the 2 being vertical) between them to further support the deck. A grid system.

With a little planning you will be able to figure out the storage issue and save a lot of weight.


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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

The bulkheads will be fiberglassed into the seats (sandwitched in) for the deck support but because of several locations that the support will be real thin, I wanted extra support. I weighted out 1/4 inch ply and for 1 - 4x8 sheet it is 10 lbs. I figure adding 100 lbs total give or take should be about right. That's wood only.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

> I weighted out 1/4 inch ply and for 1 - 4x8 sheet it is 10 lbs


That must be 5mm luan cause 1/4 exterior is about 25lbs per 4x8 sheet. If so I wouldn't use the luan for bulkheads cause it has little structural stregnth on edge.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

I agree with FC. 4 sheets glued together is 100lbs and that is the deck. 1/5 of a sheet for each support is roughly 5lbs and you are showing 7 (35lbs) plus edge supports, epoxy and cloth. That is a lot of weight up high


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## logandorn (Nov 27, 2010)

how did you get that black spider web pattern?


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

It's super easy, I'll PM you about it so we don't derail mudminnows thread here


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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

That's ok, I'm wondering the same thing The webbing looks excellent. I tried it with some paint on an experiment and wound up with webbing all over theplace. Looked like Halloween on drugs in my back yard. I'm glad grass grows back.

Also, I'm thinking of using the 1/4 ply and epoxing the 5mm white beeded burch and then putting clear urithane with uv protection over it (so it won't fade) to show the birch wood. I've seen something like this done at a boat show and it looked great. Still thinking of the hull colors and adding the bed linner paint on the bottom for running aground. I wish they came in colors instead of black. Blue would be great. I saw the blue Native skiff with teak wood on the flooring which I liked but I want something a little different. Anyway, still thinking.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

Heres the PM I sent on the webbing:


> well there are 2 ways to do webbing, you can buy webbing solution and mix it with gelcoat and activator and spray it on with a compressor fed paint gun........or you can do it the easy way
> 
> http://www.krylon.com/products/webbing_spray/
> 
> ...


and heres a link to when I did it.
http://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1257540870/12#12


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

> Also, I'm thinking of using the 1/4 ply and epoxing the 5mm white beeded burch and then putting clear urithane with uv protection over it (so it won't fade) to show the birch wood. I've seen something like this done at a boat show and it looked great.


Most likely wasn't birch and all you are gonna do is laminate your own plywood out of non marine(actually non exterior) plys. Since you aren't using epoxy through the whole build this could be disasterous. Plus you don't have a giant heat press so getting a good lamination over the whole sheet will be tough.
The much better direction here is to use a 3/8" plywood that has a nice clean grain. It's hard to find any nice looking exterior plywood, but if you switch to epoxy and glass you can go to a local cabinet shop and have your pick of the good stuff.



> Still thinking of the hull colors and adding the bed linner paint on the bottom for running aground.


Ok let me stop your thought train right here, forget about the bedliner stuff, I used the DIY stuff you can buy on my last boat on the rails and it chips easily with impact. The only stuff thats really worth a damn is Line-x, but you will be looking at about $700-900 for a hull bottom and a little speed loss.
Do a search on epoxy/graphite bottoms. Cheaper to do and works better for our applications.


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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

The boat I saw had something like white burch (like a whitewash coloring on the deck and a blue hull. It looked real nice. The plywood I saw today was white Burch. I went to a place in Orlando called Dixieply. They are a speciallity plywood supplier. The man pulled out the white burch off the rack with a fork truck and showed it to me. It was real nice. No, it's not marine grade but thats ok, it will be covered by Epoxy/woven maybe structural fiberglass on one side and clear urathane on the other. The beeded is the groves cut into the wood. The same look people have in the dinning area of expensive homes. Kind of a white wash look but a natural white looking wood tone. This should look great when I either paint lines into the groves to accent the burch and hull color or just paint white in the groves. I'll put sand bags or something to keep the pressure on the 2 decks of 4x8 plywood halves until the epoxy dries. I might even put screws in the wood to hold better or even drive my car on top of it to sandwich the sections together. Of course I will add another piece of ply as to not damage the wood. I'll see when I get that far. I'm still working on the hull. I'll look into the epoxy/graphite bottoms, What did you come up with that didn't chip off?

I'll be attaching the deck and hull together with epoxy and woven fiberglass with some structural filler and screws (I Think). Oh well, Time flies when your having fun.

Mudd Minnow


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

When you say woven do you mean cloth, or woven roving? and when you say structural fiberglass what are you refering too? Cause they are all structural in one way or another. Do you mean chopped strand mat?

Even driving your car on top may not bond it right cause it's not flat distributed weight, actually driving your car on top might be really bad cause it may bow in the middle with that much weight pushed out to the edges. I'm familiar with dixie, why not just have them order the birch, or another flavor, in 3/8" if you are dead set on it and save yourself a huge headache and extra weight? You will need to glass both sides and then polyurethane the top to get the protection you're looking for. Personally I think you are going to make alot of work for yourself, and may end up painting in the end anyway.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Epoxy with 25% graphite by volume and use 2-3 coats but DO NOT let it fully cure before you add the next coat.


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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

Ok! I know how I want to do my project so here is a drawing of what It will look like.








The yellow is the birch covered over with Clear urithane and simulated planking with hole plugs to simulate the screw hole covers, The light blue is the false floor with flotation foam under neath painted with epoxy, the Dark blue with light blue is out door carpet (I think). Not sure if I want to go that way. It doesn't look rich. The hull is dark blue with a gold chrome pin striping. My polling platform made out of aluminum will be raped with rope. Havent made that yet but, one day. 
Mudd Minnow


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

A full false floor, and a full deck? Some of us have said it before, and I'll say it again but that's alot of weight for a 14ft boat! Did you find a good retailer of marine birch? Remember that it will check so it needs to be covered with min. 6oz glass and epoxy to stop that before finishing it which may effect the finish and make it much darker. 

What was the reason for big deck? I know larger boats (20-24ft) have them, but thats usually so you can fit 2 or 3 people up there if need be. On a smaller boat I don't see how it would really help much since you can't have more then one guy up there. Also I wouldn't put carpet in the boat if it's going into saltwater, look into something like seadek if you need some padding.


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

Bateau has some 4 oz cloth for covering bright work. It is not supposed to effect the look of the wood AS MUCH. You'll still have to polyurethane it to protect the epoxy. If the decks are 3/8" thick, it would work well. If the decks are 1/4" thick, you'll need 6 oz cloth for structural purposes. 

Does the birch look better to you than cedar? Cedar is pretty stuff if you find the better stuff and it can be found in marine grades. You'll still have to glass both sides to prevent checking. You could even strip build the decks if you were feeling really ambitious.

I think Firecat has a good point about the decking. 14 ft boats are always a bit on the unstable side of life. If you raise the COG with full decking and false floors, it doesn't help the situation. I understand your desire. I dearly want a raised sole in my build, but I don't dare raise the COG. In the end, little boats are cool because they are little, simple and light. When you make little, complex, heavy boats, you loose many of the perks that attracted you in the first place.

I grew up fishing 4 people out of a 14 ft vee-hull. It wasn't overloaded most of the time, but it was cozy and we needed to be very conscientious of how we moved around in it. We got by with it because only the bow was decked and the boat was pretty light. Three out of four people had to stand on the bottom of the hull. That being said, if anyone moved too fast, the guy on the deck dang near got bucked. If we had had decks to stand on, it would have been ugly.

Nate


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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

Thanks for the advice. I've fished out of a flat back canoe that was tippy so this won't be a problem. Besides, if you look at the Native SUV, the deck is almost as big as what I want. I want a flat deck because I like it. It's very versitile. The weight should not be an issue because I've seen boats this size that have the same thickness as I'm going to end up with and their fine. After I'm done the thickness should be around 1/2 inch with structural fiberglass sandwiched between the 2 plywood. Urithane on top of the birch with some non skid called Shark grip which is glass beads so it should be see through. I'll try some on a scrap before I complete the build but all in all It should look very nice. 

Worse comes to worse I'll cut things out and rebuild.
Mudd Minnow


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

You can't really compare the Native SUV to your boat. The SUV was reengineered to maximize stability, draft and the decks are very light weight in comparison to your plan. With the decks and everything the SUV probably will weigh what your skiff will before you put the decks on and will draft less given equal weight.
I've fished on fully decked out scooter type boats before, Personally I think it hinders versatility and storage but it's your boat and if thats what you like then go for it, but don't do a floating floor cause it will be a waste and added weight. I think your plan for the decks is way too heavy still especially for something that is meant to be used and not just a show piece. I'd find some 3/8" ply and glass it and finish it as brightwork. Most decent marine plywoods will weigh less and look better, and cost less then your current plan. 
You keep mentioning structural fiberglass? do you mean chop matt? biaxial?


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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

Well, the hulls are almost identical shape, the sizes are close the mitchell is 14 ft  with out the deck added, and the Native is 14'8, The Native and my Mitchell have the same beam.  Native has all the equipment to build their boat from scratch and make it lighter. My boat is over 30 yrs old. They have better construction processess than what was designed 30 years ago. The Native SUV better be lighter then mine but, I think I can be fairly reasonable when I say yes, I can compair them to each other. They closly resemble each other. Good enouph for me.   
































I don't think it will be to tippy. I think it will be just fine. The best thing about this is I built it. The Native boats are a very nice boat and I think if I tried to come close to their design they would be flattered that I would attempt to do so. But, if they don't like it..well I don't care. 
The structural fiberglass I'm talking about is the 1708 double biax cloth. It is very strong and I'll sandwitch it between 2 layers of epoxy resin. This will give me the strength I'm looking for. After I cut several areas out of the deck then it should be light enouph for what I'm looking for.
I'm building this not as a show piece but if I can incorporate the skiff with great looks then I'll do that. If the boat is a little heavy then so be it. I expect it will be. It is 30 years older than todays skiffs.
Mudd Minnow


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## cutrunner (Jun 8, 2010)

the boats gonna be sick, mine has a lot of deck like yours and i fish the s#&t out of it, with no problems.and dont let the 30 year old thing fool you, ask any real old time glass guy, (besides buying west system or a top dollar polyester resin), the resins back then were waay better then the crap "boatyard" resin of nowdays, and yea, they saturated the glass, maybe a little too much but its better than having a dry layup that gets water intrusion and breaks down


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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

Thanks, I think this boat will hunt. I've had different ideas about how I want to do it. I thought if I were to do this, it should look real nice. I talked to some carpenters today about the urithane and wanting to put a non skid on it. I didn't want the beeds to show so he directed me to something called shark grip. It is clear beeds that put a non skid texture on a clear urithane job he did. The only 2 things that have delaied my in completing it is lack of money and cold weather. Hopefully by Friday, the money thing will not be an issue. New job prospect. But, I hope to complete it in 3 or 4 months. I'll be adding a 10 inch off set jack plate I picked up (it's to big for my motor but what the hell, I got it). 
I'm not worried about the 30 year old glass. When I'm done this will be new.
Thanks for the praze.
Mudd Minnow.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

ok I'm done, good luck


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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

Thank you


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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

here it is snag you later


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