# Bateau FS13 - Bootje -



## Andrewp (Jul 23, 2010)

Will be watching this with lots of anticipation; I know this willbe a fun build for ya .... 

AP


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## CurtisWright (May 9, 2012)

What is the width of the hull and the depth at the transom? Also, how much do you weigh and what motor are you getting?

You have to trust me on these recommendations below. I am living them out right now.
I recommend making the false floor as high as physically possible, and adding a 6" wide enclosed gunnel from the front bulkhead all the way back to and tying into the transom supports. Just like the solo skiff. With that much cockpit space, it will take 5 seconds or so to completely drain a wave over the bow out the back hole. That amount of space will easily hold 500lbs of water and will be very unstable during the 5 seconds of draining. The key is to reduce the volume of water that the boat can hold, not decrease the time it takes to drain the water. The cap on the solo skiff makes it displace 2x the volume of mine and it is definitely needed.

I also recommend modifying the plans a little to make a split tail and bring the motor a little farther forward. If its just 12", every little bit helps. Even if it does float fine as is, these boats are very unstable when you are in the back standing up to pull start a motor. You have to make every effort to keep your weight in the center of the boat.

My boat is 27" wide at the transom and 4" deep. I weigh 135lbs. I had to move my motor 26" forward to be able to crank it. If I gain 20lbs I will no longer be able to get back there even with the split tail to crank it.

This will be a fun boat for you though. I use my Solo more than I use my "big" skiff now.


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## CaptainRob (Mar 11, 2007)

Looks like a great start. Interested to see how it turns out.


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## Gramps (Nov 1, 2007)

Width at transom is 26" at the hull and 30" at the sole level.

Sole is approx. 4.5" above hull bottom but the sides extend up to 9.5" tall. I do plan on adding gunnels and a small back deck. There is a 6" radius, half moon drainage hole in the transom.

I weigh about 190lbs, looking at a 5hp 2 stroke Merc so approx. 45lbs.

I want to build this one per plans and then modify if needed. I do appreciate the input, keep it coming!


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## CurtisWright (May 9, 2012)

Just looked up the drawings for mine. 28" wide at the transom and 4" thick. I could not crank my motor without getting out of the boat and I weigh 50lbs less than you. I can barely get back there with the split tail. My buddy who is 190lbs cannot even with the split tail. The 6" raidus drain is not big enough. My hull does not drain fast enough and the whole back is cut out. 4" of water in that cockpit is 600lbs. You will flip before it drains. You have to at least raise the sole if you are going to keep a flat back. I would suggest that the sole be at least 6" and I would fill the void area on either side of the transom support to the full 9.5"


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## Andrewp (Jul 23, 2010)

I am curious about how the boat will do with the estimated 75lb weight vs. the Solo Skiff 150lb. Does more weight make the Solo Skiff less likely to be unstable once the boats start moving off the horizontal (rocking)? On the other hand, I feel certain the weight savings will allow you to run faster than a Solo with a comparable motor.

Will be very interested in the wet tests when they happen!!



AP


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## Zika (Aug 6, 2015)

Informative thread. Good luck with the project.


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## oysterbreath (Jan 13, 2009)

CW, I wanted to call you out as a "joykill" but....you have valid points! lol
I have looked at these plans to and see some room for "improvement." I use the word improvement loosely because it's really opinion. On the up side, The designer has built and run one of these and he's about Gramp's size as I recall. No reports of issues with cranking. But I do agree with you on that one. I had a flats stalker board in the past and my lard-butt would near fall out any time I was close to the transom. Anyway, Gramps....get her done and put her through the gantlet! This is only one of about 3 solo skiff style boats available for builders so I'm happy to see it.


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## makin moves (Mar 20, 2010)

Sweet, all eyes on you. Looking forward to the progress.


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## CurtisWright (May 9, 2012)

oysterbreath said:


> CW, I wanted to call you out as a "joykill" but....you have valid points! lol
> I have looked at these plans to and see some room for "improvement." I use the word improvement loosely because it's really opinion. On the up side, The designer has built and run one of these and he's about Gramp's size as I recall. No reports of issues with cranking. But I do agree with you on that one. I had a flats stalker board in the past and my lard-butt would near fall out any time I was close to the transom. Anyway, Gramps....get her done and put her through the gantlet! This is only one of about 3 solo skiff style boats available for builders so I'm happy to see it.



I know I am being a kill joy, but I am sharing lessons learned from a nearly identical build. 
I had an experienced builder give me the same advice that I am giving now but I didn't listen because I was already into the build and eager to finish. It took 700$ and two months to correct. Go on the Bateau facebook page and watch the video of two people trying to paddle it. That's how these things handle with an extra 190lbs on board. Your toast with 400-600lbslbs of water on the deck.

These boats are sweet, I am looking forward to the build because I use mine now twice as frequently as my poling skiff.


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## oysterbreath (Jan 13, 2009)

Man, CW...I can't find his videos anywhere (Bataue) ! Where did you see it?
How's your SUP? Do you have videos of yours?


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## AfterHours2 (Aug 2, 2010)

Get it Gramps!


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## CurtisWright (May 9, 2012)

oysterbreath said:


> Man, CW...I can't find his videos anywhere (Bataue) ! Where did you see it?
> How's your SUP? Do you have videos of yours?


https://www.facebook.com/BateauBoats/posts/1040017252698518

The forum will not let me embed the link so you will have to do it the copy paste way. 


I do not have a stability video of mine, but can take one. All I have are running videos.
One additional thing that I learned. With the transom mount motor you have to have a 4' long tiller extension because the riding position is about 5 ft from the transom. There is very little turning range with a 4' tiller extension so maneuvering in tight spots, like the boat ramp, is very difficult. Shifting is also a pain because you have to run back there and get it in gear before the stern sinks and then get back to the middle.


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## Andrewp (Jul 23, 2010)

CurtisWright said:


> https://www.facebook.com/BateauBoats/posts/1040017252698518
> 
> The forum will not let me embed the link so you will have to do it the copy paste way.
> 
> ...



CW, while I have more room to move the tiller in my Solo Skiff (no tiller extension), I also found the shifting a pain. I found using my paddle was easier -- get out of jams, get positioned correctly, then crank the motor, or vice-versa -- coming in, kill the motor early and just paddle in the rest of the way.

AP


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## Gramps (Nov 1, 2007)

On a plane to the desert but did get a few more pieces laid. Out last night. Will be able to make the transom 17"!

And I'm going with a Mercury shift in tiller model.


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## CurtisWright (May 9, 2012)

Gramps said:


> On a plane to the desert but did get a few more pieces laid. Out last night. Will be able to make the transom 17"!
> 
> And I'm going with a Mercury shift in tiller model.



Is your motor through hub exhaust or through the cave plate? My transom was originally 17" because motor shaft was 17'8" from the mount to the cav plate. My motor is through the cav plate exhaust. At 17" transom height the cavitation was so bad because of the exhaust that I had to cut it down to 16". I wish I would have gone all the way to 15"


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## CurtisWright (May 9, 2012)

Andrewp said:


> CW, while I have more room to move the tiller in my Solo Skiff (no tiller extension), I also found the shifting a pain. I found using my paddle was easier -- get out of jams, get positioned correctly, then crank the motor, or vice-versa -- coming in, kill the motor early and just paddle in the rest of the way.
> 
> AP


Ha, that is stupid simple and I never thought to do it. I'm so use to motoring to the spot then poling that I never thought to pole out of the ramp.


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## Gramps (Nov 1, 2007)

Thanks for the comments guys! I'm going to build this one nearly to plan spec since this is the first FS13, aside from the prototype, being built.

Anyhoo, got more time yesterday to cut out the rest of the panels less the sole & knees. Going to glue & tape this evening and let them cure for a few days while we head north to visit family. 



There is enough wood to get two (2) layers of the transom to 17" tall along with two shorter ~14" transoms and appropriate scrap to piece together. Below you can you see how I am making it work. I'll leave the spliced pieces a little large then come back with a template & router to clean them up.





Next step is a micro strong back and start to stitch! So far including setup, cleaning, and fussing , I'd guess I have about 9 work hours in so far. I could cut that down by at least 2 hours next time around, since I measured & re-measured every panel at least twice!


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

nice boots!


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## tkguppies (Jan 5, 2014)

Did you scarf joint or butt joint the panels? What's the thickness of the ply? Def interested in how this turns out!


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## Gramps (Nov 1, 2007)

Got to work on the boat a bit more this past week. I spent about 1 hour Tuesday night and 2-1/2 hours last night (Sunday) getting more work done.


Tuesday was a day for joining panels and gluing the transom. I used 6oz biax tape, yes way overkill and not what JM spec'd, but I HATE woven fabric. Anyhoo, mixed up 12 ounces of epoxy for 63 inches of tape, wet out of ply and a tack coat for the transom pieces. This turned out to be a little too much but really only about 2 ounces. Mixed another 9oz batch for the transom glue which was about perfect. 

Wet out plywood, wet out cloth, squeegee on peel ply, plastic, and then weights. Worked well for me!





Headed out of town to visit family and came home to get this done Sunday. She looks like a Bootje!! 8) 







Need to build a table and some wedges to match the frame angles. She is a bit splayed out in these photos but all of the stitches are loose now.


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## Gramps (Nov 1, 2007)

TK - It is butt jointed with glass tape. I used 6oz biax but the designer called for 6oz woven. I loathe woven glass and the biax is stronger, so no harm done.

All plywood is 4mm. Transom is 4 layers and knees are 2 layers.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

starting to take shape! Keep it up!!


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## CurtisWright (May 9, 2012)

Wanted to provide another tip I learned. When you start glassing, buy a role of roofing tar-paper to cover your garage floor in. Its heavy, durable and most of all it doesn't stick to your shoes when you spill a little resin on it. Its also really cheap


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Curtis - is it better than this wax paper that I am using? http://www.homedepot.com/p/Roberts-750-sq-ft-Roll-of-30-Waxed-Paper-70-120/203270943


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## CurtisWright (May 9, 2012)

Never used that before. As long as it doesn't stick to your shoes and tear I'd say it's the same


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## Gramps (Nov 1, 2007)

Yob that'll work. But just be aware that unless it is taped or weight down it is light enough to lift up. Just think of getting gum on your shoe and stepping on a leaf vs a rock. Tar paper is heavy per sf, the wax paper 1/3 the weight per sf.


ETA - Thanks Curtis, I'll have to grab a roll.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

good point gramps! Thanks


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

Tar paper stinks...no I mean it really stinks...and it'll leave marks on the concrete.
Visqueen, plastic vapor barrier used in construction, heavy plastic and some duct tape.

Scott, no fair using marine ply, s'posed to use luan.


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

Gramps,

I just saw these plans on Bateau the other day when I made my semi-annual "what is Bateau up to" drive by. It looks like a cool hull and it is good to have a new build to follow. I am a bit concerned if you plan on setting it up as pictured below. That grab bar is nice when running, but it forces you waaaaay off center when you try to move around it to get forward. That won't be fun in that little of a boat. I think a sissy stick set up might be better. Are you gonna go for a "work boat" or "work of art" finish? 

Have fun!

Nate



Gramps said:


>


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## CurtisWright (May 9, 2012)

WhiteDog70810 said:


> Gramps,
> 
> I just saw these plans on Bateau the other day when I made my semi-annual "what is Bateau up to" drive by It looks like a cool hull and it is good to have a new build to follow. I am a bit concerned if you plan on setting it up as pictured below. That grab bar is nice when running, but it forces you waaaaay off center when you try to move around it to get forward. That won't be fun in that little of a boat. I think a sissy stick set up might be better. Are you gonna go for a "work boat" or "work of art" finish?
> 
> ...



Second this. I keep my cooler in the middle of my boat and have not put a sissy bar on yet because I have to step over my cooler to get to the bow. Weight has to stay on the CL of the boat.


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## Gramps (Nov 1, 2007)

Brett - First time building and I'm escared! "Next" will be of luan!

Nate - Don't plan on doing a grab bar until several shake down runs. I plan on using a cooler lashed down for a seat + storage. I don't think there will be much moving around with this boat but we shall see

Curtis - Right on man!

No update to speak of. Work travel, house husbandry, and future father activities have filled my time. Hoping for a good push over the Christmas week with using up the remainder of my vacation days.


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## WC53 (Dec 2, 2015)

Hey gramps, any progress? I am also strongly considering this build, but I would lean towards a split tail.


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## jdpber1 (Aug 21, 2013)

Have you considered a glassed in storage box in the cockpit that has a single rod holder for a grab POST instead of a huge hoop. This would allow for easy movement bow to stern and removal of said grab post and makes storage in garage or where ever upside down possible. This one is made by StrongArm. i contacted them late last season about one and was quoted $125.


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## Dizchord (Feb 2, 2016)

I've seen a lot of good questions here, and as the Order desk, webmaster, warehouse guy, and pretty much everything else but designer for Bateau, and Boatbuildercentral. I have a little bit of insight to offer. I weigh about 280, and took our overbuilt prototype out on a lake (Paddle, no motor). and it didn't seem to take on much water. The drainage seemed pretty sufficient to the amount it did take while I was getting in the boat. The grab rail, is wide enough, that if you move the cooler, even I was able to duck through it. Our prototype wound up weighing in at about 150lb because it had a lot of extra glass, and a pretty thick rub-rail, and the prototype was build narrower and slightly shorter than the plans call for. 

We are also in the process of building another proto, but it is taking some time, things are picking up for our busier season, and Jeff, (built the other prototype, and mostly does his own boat repair jobs, rather than working in the office) has been unavailable to finish the build. 

Like what I'm seeing Gramps, your build is going together well. No worries about the heavier tape, like I said our prototype was quite overbuilt.


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## trekker (Sep 19, 2015)

Where You at Gramps?


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