# Bateau FS18



## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

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The first picture was just a test, but If there is an interest I'll post pictures of the entire build of my 'Bateau FS18' that I built this past winter. I'm currently building another of Bateau's boats, the FS14 LS, which will be about 13'9" and 62" wide, with a small V, self bailing cockpit, dry storage with no wet bilge area, draft should be 4.5", total weight just over 200 lbs. and a max. 25 hp rating, a 15 is what I'm planning for. This boat will be built to the same quality as the FS18, and is available for sale. Thanks in advance for your interest in following the build. Mike
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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Your hatches look great! If you can, post more photos, I don't think anyone will complain


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

That boat rocks not like those river Bateaus


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## C.Ward (Jan 19, 2016)

I would really like to see the build pictures of those hatches. Sweet looking rig.


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

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C.Ward said:


> I would really like to see the build pictures of those hatches. Sweet looking rig.


Thanks for the compliments everyone. I'll post some detail shots of the hatch construct ion, and if anyone has any questions feel free to ask, and I'll answer as best I can.


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

seapro17sv said:


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

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## Finn Maccumhail (Apr 9, 2010)

On those hatches did you glue up some wood to form a solid piece for the frame and then use the router to rout out the channels?


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

Beautiful work. I love the bright work accents. I like to see a good wood worker embrace composite construction techniques. The materials are forgiving enough for a fool like me to work with, but if the foundational wood work is precise, the fit and finish is ultimately so much better than I am capable of. 

After years without, I finally have a router. I will have to copy your techniques on future projects.

Nate


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

Finn Maccumhail said:


> On those hatches did you glue up some wood to form a solid piece for the frame and then use the router to rout out the channels?


Yes, if you look closely at all the pics, you'll see I milled some Cedar to I recall 2 1/2" square, than epoxied the frame together. The frame assembly drops into the framing for the deck, gets clamped in place, then I cut a piece of plywood that I tacked onto the piece to be routered as a guide for the router bit bearing to ride on. You'll need a top bearing bit, that I show in one of the pics, and I also drilled out the majority of the wood with a Forstner bit and made shallow passes with the router, lowering the bit a little at a time until I got to the depth that I wanted, which when the 3/8" deck thickness is added I ended up with a 2" deep gutter, then I epoxied 1" PVC drains that drain into the cockpit. I created a radius with epoxy on the inside corners of the frame, and also made an epoxy radius in the bottom corners of the routered gutter channels. Everything got multiple coats of epoxy, than the guttered frames were epoxied to the decking, than the deck assembly was dropped into the deck framing and epoxied into place. The entire decks were than glassed with 6oz. cloth, overlapping the rub rail, which was than rounded over with the router. It's all quite easy to do, just need to think through each stage and take your time.


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

WhiteDog70810 said:


> Beautiful work. I love the bright work accents. I like to see a good wood worker embrace composite construction techniques. The materials are forgiving enough for a fool like me to work with, but if the foundational wood work is precise, the fit and finish is ultimately so much better than I am capable of.
> 
> After years without, I finally have a router. I will have to copy your techniques on future projects.
> 
> Nate


Thanks for the compliments. The router is one of my favorite tools, and I think the Porter Cable with the D handle is the best because I can run it 1 handed, but I've been doing it for a lot of years, so be careful, they can get away from you. I've been using mine commercially for close to 20 years with no signs of quitting. One of the handiest tools is a smaller laminate trim router like the Bosch Pony. I use it as much, if not more often then the full size router. Plenty of power for most jobs, and easier to handle.


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## topnative2 (Feb 22, 2009)

Awesome! My hat is off to you...a great piece of work.
She is beautiful.
Wow!


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## mtoddsolomon (Mar 25, 2015)

A true craftsman, great job! Beautiful Boat.


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## Whiskey Angler (Mar 20, 2015)

Stellar Work, Amigo! The finish looks great...tapemaster!


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

Whiskey Angler said:


> Stellar Work, Amigo! The finish looks great...tapemaster!


Tapemaster, I like that. I've been working on houses for 40 years, and boats for 30, and I've always been a fanatic about masking everything, neatly, and fast. Makes for a clean job, but most people I've watched are very slow at taping, so they skip it and try to cut in by hand. Never comes out quite as nice. Thanks, Mike


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## Pole Position (Apr 3, 2016)

Really outstanding craftsmanship all the way through....on the FS18, did you round the chine at the bow or just stick w/ a hard chine?


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

slick work, I love the brightwork. What did you use to coat it?


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

BTW, how much did it end up weighing before the motor. How does it fish? Is it everything it is advertised to be? What is that vertical stub on the back right side of the platform?

Nate


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

Pole Position said:


> Really outstanding craftsmanship all the way through....on the FS18, did you round the chine at the bow or just stick w/ a hard chine?


Thanks for the compliment. Yes I did the rounded chine, a bit time consuming, but I liked the look.
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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

firecat1981 said:


> slick work, I love the brightwork. What did you use to coat it?


Thanks, I coated the Maple rub rail and inwall, and African Mahogany rod racks and transom block with 3 coats of West System epoxy with 207 special hardener, than Schooner varnish.


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## Pole Position (Apr 3, 2016)

^
Really impressive work on the chines. My understanding is that the rounded shape limits the amount of hull slap but may make for a wetter ride ( ??? ): would love to hear your thoughts on this and how your boat performs...


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

Pole Position said:


> ^
> Really impressive work on the chines. My understanding is that the rounded shape limits the amount of hull slap but may make for a wetter ride ( ??? ): would love to hear your thoughts on this and how your boat performs...


Thanks, First, Personally I think that the whole hull slap thing is way over rated, but I could be very wrong of course. I actually really liked the look of the hard chine, but decided on the rounded chine for the challenge, and so the boat wouldn't have the 'look' of a wood hull. People are always amazed that you can get that rounded shape with plywood. I haven't run the boat in any real bad chop yet, but it takes boat wakes better than my 17' center console Sea Pro because of the 18'5" length, and the fact it only weighs about 300 pounds without the motor. That being said, I have yet to have any spray come in the boat under normal conditions, but in a heavy chop, and some wind I'm sure I'll get sprayed like in most small skiffs.


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

seapro17sv said:


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That's one cool PP platform. Did you make it or what?


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

WhiteDog70810 said:


> BTW, how much did it end up weighing before the motor. How does it fish? Is it everything it is advertised to be? What is that vertical stub on the back right side of the platform?
> 
> Nate


I haven't Weighed it but it should be right around 300 lbs. With the 145 lb. motor bolted on, myself and 3 other guys slid a 2x4 under the stern and bow and carried it out of the garage and onto the trailer. I've fished extensively from a friends Hell's Bay Glades Skiff the past 4 years, and the first time he fished this skiff his first comment was that it poled better and faster than his boat, and I agree. It's a few inches narrower at 55", and the stern is narrower also, but it's lighter than the Hell's Bay, and floats empty, with the 20 Merc. in a true 3", and with 2 guys weighing 175 lbs. each, I'd say 4.5". The boat has 4" stringers, and it's self bailing at rest, and with me in the boat I can stand about 5' from the transom before water enters if the plug in the cockpit is not in place. It's slightly less stable, but not at all tippy, I can walk the gunnels, or stand on the gunnel facing port or starboard and fish without a problem, and the poling platform, at 27" off the deck is extremely stable. It tracks dead straight, and since I fish alone 90% of the time, I fish from the platform very comfortably, and the stub you see in the picture is part of my quick throw together pole holder, that pivots up and down, and rotates 360. I figured it was just temporary until I made something better or nicer, but I love it, it works amazingly well. Overall, the boat has far exceeded my expectations in every way, especially not knowing throughout the build whether I would like it or not. Easy plans to follow, a great forum with incredible support, an easy build, other than all the sanding, and a ton of fun. In fact I started the FS14 low sheer a few weeks ago, and will build it to the exact same quality as the first, and it will be for sale. Beautiful hull, I'll post pics soon, max 5" draft, self bailing at rest, dry storage, no wet bilge areas, flotation foam, Graphite bottom, for Oysters, Awlgrip paint, and the same wood trim details. If anyone is interested in seeing either boat, I'm in Flagler Beach, and I'll answer any questions about the build process for anyone wanting to build there own. Mike
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## Whiskey Angler (Mar 20, 2015)

Will you please elaborate on what brand and application processes you used for your paint/coatings? E.g. Hull Paint, Cap Paint, Non Skid, Hatch Paint? (Spray, Roll/Tip?) It looks great, and if you ended up rolling/tipping, I'd be curious to hear what thinner/reduction ratios worked best for you given the temp/humidity conditions. Too specific?


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

permitchaser said:


> That's one cool PP platform. Did you make it or what?


No I didn't make it, I saw an ad on Craigslist, and had a young guy in St. Augustine make both the poling platform and the forward casting platform. He has a nice metal shop behind his house, and has a great eye for design, and worked with me getting exactly what I wanted, and was very fair with his pricing. A 27" height, comfortable to sit on and drive, and low enough to get up onto easily, and curved inward aft to allow the motor to tilt all the way up, and also room to swing the tiller. His name is Zeke Williams 904-377-2086 and [email protected]


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

Whiskey Angler said:


> Will you please elaborate on what brand and application processes you used for your paint/coatings? E.g. Hull Paint, Cap Paint, Non Skid, Hatch Paint? (Spray, Roll/Tip?) It looks great, and if you ended up rolling/tipping, I'd be curious to hear what thinner/reduction ratios worked best for you given the temp/humidity conditions. Too specific?


All of the paint was Awlgrip; 545 high build primer, Snow white for bilge and underside of hatches, Aqua Mist for hull and decks, with the borders of the deck, Snow White with a tiny bit of Moondust mixed in, (already hadsome) to tone it down a little. Vertical surfaces like the hull are roll and tipped, ( high quality natural bristle 3' brush a must) the flat areas like the deck are all rolled with a 4" foam roller, no tipping necessary, and I sprinkle the non skid out of the container with holes drilled in the lid. Make sure you don't do this in the wind, make sure the lid is on tight, keep the container a foot or more above the surface and move quickly in a circular motion, making sure to get nice even coverage, and no areas that are too loaded up. You can roll over it gently afterwards, I usually do not need to do that. I let it dry fully, brush off the loose sand, than re-coat at least 1 coat. Some guys mix the non-skid into the paint, and this probably works just as well, as long as you keep it constantly mixed. I just got used to doing it my way many years ago and I'm stubborn and see no need to change my technique. Experimen on a small sample first, either method or both, before doing the actual boat. For reducer, I used the Awlgrip slow reducer for brush application T0031. I think the ratio is around 20-33%, not sure without looking at the can. I made the mistake of painting the hull on a 50 degree day in my garage and it came out like crap. Just wouldn't lay down right, so sanded down, and like the idiot I am, did the same thing the next day with the same temperature, and it also sucked, so sanded it again. Next, I chose a horrible rainy day, but warmer, and tried spraying it in a dark garage, with a sprayer that kept clogging, (lack of maintenance) and it came out absolutely horrible, just can't see it in the pictures, and no one else has noticed either, because it still has a good shine, just not perfect. I've always rolled and tipped, outside, in blazing sun, and the paint flows and levels out like a mirror. Don't be concerned with brush marks as you paint. Roll it on thin with a 4" foam roller, tip vertically, 1 time, never horizontally, you'll get sags, and keep moving. By the time you're 10 feet down the hull the brush strokes will have leveled out. Super easy to work with, very expensive, probably deadly as hell to breathe, so wear a good respirator, and wear gloves. Also, if you mix too much, no worries, put plastic wrap over the container you're using and put it in the fridge. Usually will stay viable for a day or two. Good luck, Mike


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## Whiskey Angler (Mar 20, 2015)

seapro17sv said:


> All of the paint was Awlgrip; 545 high build primer, Snow white for bilge and underside of hatches, Aqua Mist for hull and decks, with the borders of the deck, Snow White with a tiny bit of Moondust mixed in, (already hadsome) to tone it down a little. Vertical surfaces like the hull are roll and tipped, ( high quality natural bristle 3' brush a must) the flat areas like the deck are all rolled with a 4" foam roller, no tipping necessary, and I sprinkle the non skid out of the container with holes drilled in the lid. Make sure you don't do this in the wind, make sure the lid is on tight, keep the container a foot or more above the surface and move quickly in a circular motion, making sure to get nice even coverage, and no areas that are too loaded up. You can roll over it gently afterwards, I usually do not need to do that. I let it dry fully, brush off the loose sand, than re-coat at least 1 coat. Some guys mix the non-skid into the paint, and this probably works just as well, as long as you keep it constantly mixed. I just got used to doing it my way many years ago and I'm stubborn and see no need to change my technique. Experimen on a small sample first, either method or both, before doing the actual boat. For reducer, I used the Awlgrip slow reducer for brush application T0031. I think the ratio is around 20-33%, not sure without looking at the can. I made the mistake of painting the hull on a 50 degree day in my garage and it came out like crap. Just wouldn't lay down right, so sanded down, and like the idiot I am, did the same thing the next day with the same temperature, and it also sucked, so sanded it again. Next, I chose a horrible rainy day, but warmer, and tried spraying it in a dark garage, with a sprayer that kept clogging, (lack of maintenance) and it came out absolutely horrible, just can't see it in the pictures, and no one else has noticed either, because it still has a good shine, just not perfect. I've always rolled and tipped, outside, in blazing sun, and the paint flows and levels out like a mirror. Don't be concerned with brush marks as you paint. Roll it on thin with a 4" foam roller, tip vertically, 1 time, never horizontally, you'll get sags, and keep moving. By the time you're 10 feet down the hull the brush strokes will have leveled out. Super easy to work with, very expensive, probably deadly as hell to breathe, so wear a good respirator, and wear gloves. Also, if you mix too much, no worries, put plastic wrap over the container you're using and put it in the fridge. Usually will stay viable for a day or two. Good luck, Mike


I was hoping you used Awlgrip. I'll be doing a recoat of a Gladesmen soon with awlgrip, and was curious as to your method. What you have recommended matches other's recommended process, with the added note about avoiding cool days (you said 50 degrees). In the coming months, I should have plenty of days right around 70-75 degrees latemorning that should fair well for the awlgrip roll/tip.

Thanks. This was very helpful.


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

I absolutely love the lines on those B-FS18's, and you did a fantastic job on that one. Tell me tho, is it tippy? How does it fish and pole (weight balance wise)? I see you are selling it, why? There was one recently that was selling his (very simular to yours). He sold his cheap. I think he sold it for $5k B,M & T. It also had nice hatches. Just curious.


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## Pole Position (Apr 3, 2016)

Not to put words in the OPs' mouth, but I'm pretty sure he is building a different model, the FS14-low sheer, to sell, and not his current FS18. Honestly, the craftsmanship Ive seen in the pics are as good as any Ive ever seen, and somebody will end up w/ a damn good boat,imo.


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

Backwater said:


> I absolutely love the lines on those B-FS18's, and you did a fantastic job on that one. Tell me tho, is it tippy? How does it fish and pole (weight balance wise)? I see you are selling it, why? There was one recently that was selling his (very simular to yours). He sold his cheap. I think he sold it for $5k B,M & T. It also had nice hatches. Just curious.


Thanks for the compliment. If you read my earlier post through, I've provided a little review of the boats handling, etc. Compared to a similar boat in dimensions, the Hell's Bay Glades Skiff, often touted as the best poling skiff available, my boat is slightly less stable being a few inches narrower, but poles faster, and tracks dead straight. It's so much better than I could have imagined, and it will never be for sale. This one will be left to my son when I'm no longer.....If you look at the pictures closely you'll see it floats empty with a Merc 20hp long shaft in 3.25", and with 4" stringers is self bailing at rest. An amazing design by Jacques Martins at Bateau.....A few words on "nice" hatches. My production boat has "nice" hatches also, only problem they don't keep the water out, and you'll find the same problem on most skiffs, factory, and home built. You need deep wide gutters, a decent gasket, and large drains. That's how I built my hatches, and I have a boat that can withstand a tropical downpour and remain dry as bone down below. I went to a boat show a few weeks ago and was amazed at the crap being built, with hatches that allow water to pour in over wiring and batteries. They all have nice cushions though. Mike


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

Pole Position said:


> Not to put words in the OPs' mouth, but I'm pretty sure he is building a different model, the FS14-low sheer, to sell, and not his current FS18. Honestly, the craftsmanship Ive seen in the pics are as good as any Ive ever seen, and somebody will end up w/ a damn good boat,imo.


Thanks Pole Position, Yes the FS14 Low Sheer is a new design by Jacques, and I'll be the second one started just about 3 weeks ago. I'll be posting pics soon of the build, and it is for sale. I've already purchased a really nice heavy duty galvanized trailer, and now need a 15-20 hp long shaft tiller motor. This will be better than any 14' skiff on the market when it's finished. Mike


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## eurycea (Oct 6, 2016)

Just joined the forum because of this boat. Man she's pretty.


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