# BEAVERTAIL B2 RESTORATION



## whoislang

Hey everyone, don’t have access to previous account anymore (scLang) so I will be continuing as Whoislang from now on. This will be my first legitimate thread related to my own boat. It hopefully will be all encompassing.

What I want to do here is introduce myself, as well as my skiff here, and allow yall to follow along in its process of a semi restoration, as well as give myslef a home to document all of the progress i have made on this hull since I purchased it in November 2019. 

I am from Charleston, SC, 25 years old, and this is my first skiff, or boat of any kind. I have grown up sailing, and fishing, and generally taking advantage of the local waterways here my whole life. I've logged a couple thousand hours on my parents' Whaler and SeaFox, and taught sailing classes to kids for 4 years. Needless to say I know my way around sailboats, powerboats, skiffs, ribcrafts, offshore center consoles, you name it. I worked as production engineer as well as sales and marketing for Freeman Boatworks for 3 years, and graduated from Clemson University with a BS in Industrial Engineering in 2018. My current employer is Volvo Cars USA, where I am a supplier quality engineer. Cars are ok, but I couldn't be more passionate about boats and the water. 

I have always wanted a skiff, and truly enjoy fly fishing, so I knew I needed something able to get skinny. I have always followed the MS BST trade sections, but I had a price point to keep in mind, and during my search I couldn't stretch my wallet enough to pick up a late model HB or East Cape or the like. I finally came across a skiff more in my price range in the marketplace section on Facebook, ironically enough. It was a 2007 Beavertail B2, in hunter green. Yamaha 70 TLR. I could make that work for the price, I thought. The seller was in Mount Pleasant, so we went for a test ride. Not to bash, but this skiff had seen better days. What was likely the product of multiple repowerings, shotty rewiring jobs, and an attempt at new hull paint, the boat was clearly not in top condition, and in desperate need of a loving owner. The trailer was on its last leg, too (I would come to find this out very literally in the next month). 

I did my fair share of research and became familiar with Mark Fisher and his dealings with HB, and how the skiffs came to fruition. I wasn't scared of its scandalous upbringing, and I had spent some time on my friend's Waterman, so I knew the hull was capable, she just needed some TLC. If anything, by the end of it I would come to be the owner of a one of a kind skiff. A few weeks after that first test ride, we settled on a price, and she became my first skiff. The journey begins.

I actually have become a part of a members group for Beavertails since owning her, and I do have to say they are some of the more genuine crowd when it comes to dealing with product fanpage people. I cannot say enough about Mark Fisher, in specific, for helping me with any questions that I send his way, and his willingness to help me out, even 13 years after this skiff was released from his mold. He is truly a testament to customer service, and I truly appreciate him for one: making my dream of skiff ownership attainable, and two: being supportive along my journey to give this skiff a loving home and the hands it needed. 

Bear with me as I add photos to this thread, and feel free to chime in with any questions along the way, and I will attempt to answer to the best of my ability. Hopefully this can become a home base for anyone with questions regarding their experience with their own B2, or other Fisher BT. 

Thanks, Hope you enjoy.


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## Zika

Welcome back. Look forward to seeing your restoration progress. That skiff will be well-suited for the back bays and tidal creeks in your home waters.


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## NativeBone

Look forward following the process


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## Capnredfish

Here is my 06. Looking forward to this. Mine is not in any need of restoration. If you uncover any of the hidden construction, particularly under the back deck take pictures.


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## Salt

Following and 07 B2 owner. Looking forward to seeing more.


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## Capnredfish

How about before photos?


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## whoislang

Alright yall, Ive gotten all my media files uploaded so here goes. I'll start with some before photos.

Docked up ready for the first test ride. Colder day back in November, but was able to get a nice feel for the boat as we putted down Shem Creek and took a spin in the harbor and got up on the pole in the ICW.










You can get a feel for how used and abused the old decking was. Not sure the brand that Mark and his crew used to install but appears to be SeaDek. Lots of chips, nicks, and stains. Very compressed from being walked on for 13 years. I would eventually come to replace this with DekIt, a local marine decking supplier.









Bilge looks like it has had standing water in it for years. Plugs are a useful thing if you use them correctly. After running the boat i realized that you can block water from entering the storage hatches by using the expandable plugs. Works great.









Switch panel, this is factory from Mark at BT. Some things worked on this sea trial, some things didn't. Livewell pump was out, nav /anchor lights were out, recirc pump was out. The helm was leaking HSF, and so was the cylinder. steering was loosey goosey.









I'm gonna give BT the benefit of the doubt on this one and say that it didn't leave the factory like this. God awful wiring job by whoever has been repairing things on this skiff.


















I think I threw up in my mouth a little when I saw the inside of the aft storage. Ridiculous. This will have to be fixed.
























OK, yall may be wondering was I off my rocker to buy something in this condition? I can say what really convinced me is 1. the story behind the boat, and 2. the skiff rides and handles incredibly. The ride was reminiscent of a waterman, although the boat is undoubtedly heavier. the draft was good, around 7-8" realistically. The fact of the matter was, I was confident that I had the expertise to be able to fix most anything on the boat, and I was up for the challenge. The chance to be able to own a slice of skiff history was at my fingertips, and I knew that undertaking such a project would yield massive pride and appreciation on the tail end. So without much ado, here is a shot of it sitting in my driveway two weeks later 🍻


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## Capnredfish

whoislang said:


> Alright yall, Ive gotten all my media files uploaded so here goes. I'll start with some before photos.
> 
> View media item 8574


didn't work


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## whoislang

Capnredfish said:


> didn't work


Try it now, my media was private, now eveyrone should be able to view.


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## permitchaser

This will be fun to watch. This boat looks good compared to mine when I first brought it home. At least your motor worked


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## SC on the FLY

Subscribed to watch the progress


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## Capnredfish

The wiring definitely did not leave Beavertail like that. Factory wiring was nice. Not what you see in a one off custom wiring job on an offshore boat. Mine is neat, wrapped and tucked out of way.


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## BrownDog

I remember being tempted when this one came up for sale locally.
Good luck with the project, will be great to follow.


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## 7WT

What expandable plugs are you referring to for plugging hatches? I would like to use on mine. I did buy some "rubber" wine stoppers that are working to some degree?


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## Net 30

Knowing how the skiff was _"maintained"_ by the previous owner, I hope you got the engine looked at by a tech before buying?

Looks like a great candidate for a restoration! Good luck.


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## permitchaser

Just a guess but do those trim tabs work


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## whoislang

Capnredfish said:


> The wiring definitely did not leave Beavertail like that. Factory wiring was nice. Not what you see in a one off custom wiring job on an offshore boat. Mine is neat, wrapped and tucked out of way.


Any pics of yours? Is it still factory or have you had it redone?


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## whoislang

7WT said:


> What expandable plugs are you referring to for plugging hatches? I would like to use on mine. I did buy some "rubber" wine stoppers that are working to some degree?


like dis

yes it’s basically same concept as a wine stopper lol. Many boats and parts are designed by drinkers


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## whoislang

Net 30 said:


> Knowing how the skiff was _"maintained"_ by the previous owner, I hope you got the engine looked at by a tech before buying?
> 
> Looks like a great candidate for a restoration! Good luck.


Yes I had it inspected by a local shop, to check for compression, idle, shifting, overall condition etc.

It tested just fine, and during this project it’s been the least of my worries. I bought it with ~260hrs and I just turned 400 on it last week.She got new plugs, Lower unit oil change, and water fuel separator change. The old separator had virtually nothing but gas inside so that was awesome to know there wasn’t any gunk or junk getting into the carbs.

Overall strong engine. Looking to upgrade my aluminum prop to a nice SS prop from PowerTech soon.


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## whoislang

permitchaser said:


> Just a guess but do those trim tabs work


Yes trim tabs have worked awesome since I got it. I think they’re 9” x 12”

No issues besides I had to replace one of the little plastic dowels that hold the actuator onto the tab one time. It fell out while running and therefore the tab was dangling when I put it back on the trailer. Funny part is I think they were still functioning just fine while I was running due to water pressure holding the plate against the actuator. Never noticed a problem till I pulled it out of the water lol. I went ahead and replaced all the stupid plastic dowels with SS bolts.


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## whoislang

Aside from starting with multiple heavy washdowns and a deep clean, I decided that some updates were in order. I was approached by Jordan of DEKit, a local competitor in the marine decking industry, he wanted to help provide a solution for the old tattered Seadek that was previously installed. The process of getting the old stuff off was up to me. With the help of some razor blades, brute force, and most importantly a 3M eraser wheel, I managed to get the old stuff off and a splash of acetone freed the deck of any lingering adhesive. Needless to say Jordan was pleasantly surprised at my bringing in a clean deck for him to start with as most customers expect him to provide a full service job. This saved his team a ton of time and work. The rest was more or less simple.



























The process of getting my cockpit mapped by Jordan's team took around a week, as he is very busy suplying to some of the local boatbuilders in the area, being Seafox, Sportsman, Freeman, as well as custom jobs for many individuals such as myself. His product is supposedly more impact, cut, tear, and sun resistant than any other marine decking product on the market. It is a closed cell foam, so it will not trap water, and does not get blisteringly hot to the touch like some other brands.

I decided to go with a teak over black design, to keep things classy. Solid black over teak under the gunnels. I am very excited with how the job turned out and I think that it transformed the look of the skiff tremendously. I have gotten hundreds of compliments on it to this day and it is still one of my favorite upgrades to the skiff. Highly recommend Dekit and their team to anyone in the local Charleston area, and now they have opened up a shop in South Florida in order to expand their market.

*DEKit LLC,*
1030 Hunley Sullivans Road, Awendaw SC
[email protected]
(833) 335-4848





DEKit Non Skid Boat Foam Decking | Marine Flooring & Teak Decking


DEKit offers Non-Skid Boat Foam Decking products for more comfortable alternative & smart-looking solution to take your boating experience to the next level.




dekit.com





I went with a twin panel design for the cockpit. I thought the original design was a bit busy. I also added a cupholder on the bridge so the captain could calm his nerves while poling 🍻

















Also below is the original layout for the factory Seadek that was instaled by Mark if anyone finds that useful.


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## 7WT

Looks great. Do you have an itemized cost of the work you did on your B2? That would be interesting and helpful in deciding what if any more I might do. To date my work has been minimal- replaced electronic central entirely, new charger for new minn kota with new wiring and plug outlet- new bow circle hook to pull boat onto trailer, new led bow lights with stern fold down light. My mercury 60 four stroke is in excellent condition. I added plastic bunker pads to ease trailer winching and also upgraded winch on trailer and changed trailer lights to LED


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## whoislang

7WT said:


> Looks great. Do you have an itemized cost of the work you did on your B2? That would be interesting and helpful in deciding what if any more I might do. To date my work has been minimal- replaced electronic central entirely, new charger for new minn kota with new wiring and plug outlet- new bow circle hook to pull boat onto trailer, new led bow lights with stern fold down light. My mercury 60 four stroke is in excellent condition. I added plastic bunker pads to ease trailer winching and also upgraded winch on trailer and changed trailer lights to LED


Haha not yet, I’m scared to itemize everything. I don’t think it’s more than 1000$ though. Certainly saved a ton on labor by doing everything myself.


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## permitchaser

I hate


whoislang said:


> Yes trim tabs have worked awesome since I got it. I think they’re 9” x 12”
> 
> No issues besides I had to replace one of the little plastic dowels that hold the actuator onto the tab one time. It fell out while running and therefore the tab was dangling when I put it back on the trailer. Funny part is I think they were still functioning just fine while I was running due to water pressure holding the plate against the actuator. Never noticed a problem till I pulled it out of the water lol. I went ahead and replaced all the stupid plastic dowels with SS bolts.


 I hate stuff like that but it was funny to hear. Best of luck with your repairs


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## whoislang

I also will attach my design for the dekit on my skiff in case anyone is interested. Here you go.


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## whoislang

I knew the trailer wasnt in tip top condition, but I wasnt sure of how long it would last. My first trip to Beaufort one of the hubs decided to give way on me. Amazingly, I didnt notice that it was blown until I pulled in my driveway. Lucky that I didn't lose a wheel or cause any serious damage to the trailer or the hull. A new hub would save me short term but this bite out of the spindle seemed to be more permanent. To my surprise my local trailer shop recommended that I grind down the spindle until I could slide the proper size bearings on there and run it for a few months until I could get ahold of a new axle or trailer. This was certainly a sketchy suggestion and ******* solution so I can't say that I personally recommend this to anyone experiencing this issue. best to replace axle/spindle and be on the safe side. These spindles were welded to the torsion bars so that was not an option for me. I was now surely constrained to the immediate mount pleasant area. I would need a long term solution soon.


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## whoislang

Some weeks passed, and my next problem seemed to be related to the steering. I was having difficulty steering at full trim down, and didn't know why. It appeared that my steering cylinder was at an odd angle to the motor. The steering would bind as I trimmed down and made it basically impossible to turn the wheel. Not ideal. This picture explains it best. 

















Turns out that this rod that goes through the main tilt tube on the motor mount is seized up. This issue gave me a run for my ingenuity. Starboard one slid out just fine, port was stuck completely. 

















I was able to slide a piece of square tubing (about 3 feet long) over the end of the port side arm, and just twist until the rust broke. Lots of PB blaster was used here. That shit is like rust's worst nightmare. Once the rust broke, i slid a piece of steel rod through the other side and hit with BFH till it popped out mm by mm. Twisting back and forth the whole time with the square tubing.
















This shows how important it is to grease all zerk fittings during regular maintenance. Grease is your best friend.


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## 7WT

I have had the same steering rod seizure- and despite grease and other lubricants when my B2 sits for any period of time it can bind again fyi


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## whoislang

This year I was invited to go to Homosassa FL on a tarpon trip. We were planning on bringing two skiffs, one of them mine. I knew that my current trailer was not even close to road worthy, so I began working on leads to have anew one built. I opted out of simply replacing the axle because of the extent of other rust and damage to the trailer. It was a Ramlin, or at least an exact replica (I know Blue Rock made them for awhile, tough to identify without any mfg markings or logos.) 

















I found Float-On at the Miami Boat show while working sales and sea trials for Freeman. Tamra was able to help me spec a trailer that would meet my needs. Swing tongue, aluminum construction, stainless hardware, LED lights, guide poles, and side bunks. 14" custom wheels and all for under 1500$, I'll take it. 

3 months later and lots amount of goings back and forth concerning specifics, my trailer was delivered to me. After a couple attempts at adjusting the bunks (sounds simple,bolts were galled up upon delivery) she was sitting on her new nest.

















My main requirement for a trailer was being able to dry launch., I'm still not sure if Float-On ever understood this, and I was nervous when the trailer showed up with a 22* down axle that it would be much too high. But when I took it for its first splash, she was able to load and launch just fine with the hubs out of the water. Depending on the tide and ramp, I can keep the tires dry and she still slides right off. This was all before coating the bunks with some Liquid Rollers spray, and now they are certainly slick. Be careful with that stuff, your rig might run away from you, or you might get whacked in the face by the winch handle. Not speaking from experience or anything... 😏


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## Capnredfish

Nice trailer and price.


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## 7WT

Was your B2 originally black or did you do that? Nice to have a reliable trailer. Original looks like a BlueRock though never saw one in black but that might have been because the B2 is black?


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## whoislang

7WT said:


> Was your B2 originally black or did you do that? Nice to have a reliable trailer. Original looks like a BlueRock though never saw one in black but that might have been because the B2 is black?


She’s actually hunter green. Very dark appears black from far away or in shadow.


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## permitchaser

Damn nice boat looking good man!!!


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## 7WT

I like it. Original color or did you do that?


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## whoislang

7WT said:


> I like it. Original color or did you do that?


Trying to find out from Mark. I didn't paint it, but it appears that someone before me did. Not great paint adhesion in some areas, so I'm not sure what happened. It appears to have at least two layers, and they are both a similar color green. I'll text him again today to find out the original build specs. 

Thanks for the compliments. Can you tell I made it to Homosassa on my new trailer lol? That photo is from the springs in the back of the river.


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## whoislang

deleted***


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## whoislang

Ok, so far I've been over the trailer, Dekit, some problem solving random components with y'all, but I want to get into the meat and potatoes of this post. I'll be honest, my skiff is already seaworthy again and all of the things I will talk about in this thread are already finished, so I'm gonna get into the fun stuff now. Still want to go step by step in this chain but I will go faster with the posts from here on. Here goes.

The task: Full re-wire, add speakers, new deck lights, re-secure poling platform top, and last but certainly not least, I wanted to open up the starboard sponson to allow for more storage space, and be able to analyze the problems I've been having with water seeping into the sponsons. Of course more small details would be fixed along the way. Oh yeah, and the 400hr service. Water fuel separator, spark plugs, and new foot oil.

My dojo











Basically I started snipping. A complete de-rig was on my hands and I didn't want to waste time. Due to Corona the Volvo plant wasn't building cars so I had three weeks of (state unemployment) paid furlough ahead of me and I didn't see when else I would get the time to do this.






































Next step before I was gonna even touch any of this was a mega wash. Bleach, soft scrub, degreaser, mold remover, soap. Scrub a dub. 13 years of junk doesn't come off easy. I was able to get most of it. The rest I would paint over.


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## whoislang

Console coming off. Everything Yamaha was somewhat color coded but I still took pictures of each connection to be sure of how to re-connect everything on the re-rig. This is a crucial step becuase my brain can't remember small stuff like that when I get on a roll.



















Check out how corroded the 704 remote was. Sanpaper did the trick to get most of it off, but theres no real repairing this. I'd have to live with it.











Everything off of the console. Some holes here will be filled and everything on the bottom painted with gel coat. The top side I would attempt to get everything as faired as possible and paint by hand with a brush, but ultimately that didn't end up working. I'll show you why later.


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## Capnredfish

Bunch of pics are missing.


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## whoislang

Capnredfish said:


> Bunch of pics are missing.


try again.


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## 7WT

Not all pics showing. Not sure if that is my end or yours


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## Capnredfish

Your water is probably coming in right where I put red arrow. Right where transom, deck and splash well insert meet. That is where it comes in on mine. I put it in a dark garage used a mirror and a light. Easily see the small gap. And I used a hose to verify it. I got about a pint of water per trip. Sometimes none if I didn’t come off plane fast during the trip or dunk stern too far on launch or retrieve. And stayed out of rough water.


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## whoislang

7WT said:


> Not all pics showing. Not sure if that is my end or yours


They should be there, I opened in an alternate browser and didn't log in to check. should be good.


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## whoislang

Capnredfish said:


> Your water is probably coming in right where I put red arrow. Right where transom, deck and splash well insert meet. That is where it comes in on mine. I put it in a dark garage used a mirror and a light. Easily see the small gap. And I used a hose to verify it. I got about a pint of water per trip. Sometimes none if I didn’t come off plane fast during the trip or dunk stern too far on launch or retrieve. And stayed out of rough water.
> View attachment 153058


I'll give it a shot and see what I find. Good info.


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## Capnredfish

This is a pic of transom and splash well insert from inside. You can see staining from where water was dripping in.


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## Rich11111

whoislang said:


> I've been having with water seeping into the sponsons


I have a B2 since new. It has always accumulated water in the starboard sponson. A couple of years ago I spoke to the original builder (don't recall name but very helpful). He said there was a sealing problem on cap to hull from the helm back. It makes sense since in rougher water there is the more water in the sponson. Smooth water and no water gets in. I may breakdown and separate the cap from hull and seal better. This may or may not be similar to your issue.


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## whoislang

Capnredfish said:


> Your water is probably coming in right where I put red arrow. Right where transom, deck and splash well insert meet. That is where it comes in on mine. I put it in a dark garage used a mirror and a light. Easily see the small gap. And I used a hose to verify it. I got about a pint of water per trip. Sometimes none if I didn’t come off plane fast during the trip or dunk stern too far on launch or retrieve. And stayed out of rough water.
> View attachment 153058


Also, forgot to ask. did you do anything about it?


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## 7WT

Very interested in this cap to helm seal Rich 11111 By helm do you mean the hull? I had assumed my B2 takes water thru the sponson hatches. You have me considering other possibilities?


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## KCTim

whoislang said:


> Ok, so far I've been over the trailer, Dekit, some problem solving random components with y'all, but I want to get into the meat and potatoes of this post. I'll be honest, my skiff is already seaworthy again and all of the things I will talk about in this thread are already finished, so I'm gonna get into the fun stuff now. Still want to go step by step in this chain but I will go faster with the posts from here on. Here goes.
> 
> The task: Full re-wire, add speakers, new deck lights, re-secure poling platform top, and last but certainly not least, I wanted to open up the starboard sponson to allow for more storage space, and be able to analyze the problems I've been having with water seeping into the sponsons. Of course more small details would be fixed along the way. Oh yeah, and the 400hr service. Water fuel separator, spark plugs, and new foot oil.
> 
> My dojo
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> Basically I started snipping. A complete de-rig was on my hands and I didn't want to waste time. Due to Corona the Volvo plant wasn't building cars so I had three weeks of (state unemployment) paid furlough ahead of me and I didn't see when else I would get the time to do this.
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> Next step before I was gonna even touch any of this was a mega wash. Bleach, soft scrub, degreaser, mold remover, soap. Scrub a dub. 13 years of junk doesn't come off easy. I was able to get most of it. The rest I would paint over.


Hey where did you get those BT trailer guide covers? They look pretty sweet!


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## Rich11111

7WT said:


> Very interested in this cap to helm seal Rich 11111 By helm do you mean the hull? I had assumed my B2 takes water thru the sponson hatches. You have me considering other possibilities?


Hull seal to cap from the helm back. When you are boating around put your hand under the rub rail and you will feel the splash wave. In choppy water it is much stronger push. Look at hull and cap without the rub rail of attached picture. You can see the cap raps over the hull. I am assuming this is where the water is being driven in. I don't remember if mentioned speaking to the builder, if so give him a call to inquire. (The picture is one I found on internet). A repair shop said repair would be $500 but he would show me how if I wanted to do myself. Repair guy said it takes wedges and 3M 5200.


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## Bonesonthebrain

TimR said:


> Hey where did you get those BT trailer guide covers? They look pretty sweet!





https://trailerguidepoles.com/


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## whoislang

Bonesonthebrain said:


> https://trailerguidepoles.com/


Yup


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## whoislang

7WT said:


> Very interested in this cap to helm seal Rich 11111 By helm do you mean the hull? I had assumed my B2 takes water thru the sponson hatches. You have me considering other possibilities?


He means we wants to re-seal the cap To the hull. If you were gonna do it, might as well do the whole perimeter of the boat, not just the from the helm to the stern.

Basically you’d have to remove the rub rail, which is bolted on for some reason (most builders just use screws, much cleaner IMO, and won’t catch your cast net) and Yes, wedge the cap and hull apart, and fill the void. I wouldn’t a caulk like 5200. 5200 is pretty strong, but not designed for this application. Methacryalte or resin putty would be better because you need a structural bond here, not just caulk. Then screw the rub rail back on. 4000 the bottom lip of the rub rail. I tried once with life caulk and it was very weak. The spray blasted it off after just a couple trips.


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## Rich11111

whoislang said:


> If you were gonna do it, might as well do the whole perimeter of the boat, not just the from the helm to the stern.


Sounds like you've got experience with this. I get a couple cups of water max after a day on the water. The person I spoke to on sealing it said that there would be no harm on leaving as is. Just have to drain at the end of the day. What would you think? I'm not sure if there is foam in that part that would get soaked over time and hold water weight.


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## Capnredfish

whoislang said:


> Also, forgot to ask. did you do anything about it?


Not yet. Going to make top of splashwell insert with a wide radius like yours.


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## Capnredfish

Good luck with reseal. I don’t believe that the perimeter is the issue. See quick drawing pic. Completely bonded between the two.







I have the first year B2 with access to the entire sponson. No water comes in from anywhere around the perimeter other than where cap is cut to fit transom and the splash well insert is set in and bonded over transom. Right where those three meet is the spot.


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## whoislang

Rich11111 said:


> Sounds like you've got experience with this. I get a couple cups of water max after a day on the water. The person I spoke to on sealing it said that there would be no harm on leaving as is. Just have to drain at the end of the day. What would you think? I'm not sure if there is foam in that part that would get soaked over time and hold water weight.


I’ve never had a serious issue, and yes, only a couple of cups after a full day. Just annoying to not have any true dry storage on the entire rig. So leaving as is would be perfectly fine and safe, just depends on what you want. Lots of work, but is it worth it to you? That’s the question.

Regsrding the foam, please follow for my next part of the write up, it will start to answer your questions. Or PM me and I can show you, not gonna spoil my timeline on the main thread.


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## whoislang

Capnredfish said:


> Good luck with reseal. I don’t believe that the perimeter is the issue. See quick drawing pic. Completely bonded between the two.
> View attachment 153167
> I have the first year B2 with access to the entire sponson. No water comes in from anywhere around the perimeter other than where cap is cut to fit transom and the splash well insert is set in and bonded over transom. Right where those three meet is the spot.


Accurate cross section, but it’s likely that there could be gaps in whatever was used for filling. Ideally all around the edges it would be filled with putty (orange).









Just going through hypotheticals here, and it would have varied from hull to hull. I’m gonna check the spot in the transom when I get back to my boat. I’ll glass over it from the inside if it’s got a gap.


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## whoislang

Capnredfish said:


> Not yet. Going to make top of splashwell insert with a wide radius like yours.


Yours doesn’t have the same radius as mine? Pics?


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## Capnredfish

whoislang said:


> Yours doesn’t have the same radius as mine? Pics?


No. It has a stress crack. The very next year changed to your style.


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## whoislang

Capnredfish said:


> No. It has a stress crack. The very next year changed to your style.
> View attachment 153200
> View attachment 153201


Ha! You found my original post about my tilt trim. I see what you mean now. Did you add the transom saver or was it factory?


----------



## Capnredfish

No transom saver. I’m just going to build a new insert


----------



## whoislang

Capnredfish said:


> No transom saver. I’m just going to build a new insert


Sorry I meant the Aluminum plate that wraps over your transom.


----------



## Capnredfish

Came factory.


----------



## rkmurphy526

whoislang said:


> try again.


still missing. Cool thread nonetheless!


----------



## whoislang

rkmurphy526 said:


> still missing. Cool thread nonetheless!


I’ll fix in the morning


----------



## whoislang

rkmurphy526 said:


> still missing. Cool thread nonetheless!


The pictures are all there on my end, even if I log out, and if I switch from Chrome to Internet Explorer they still work. Not sure whats up with that. Page two has alot of pictures of the tear down. Let me know if it still doesnt work.

@Capnredfish you mentioned you couldn't see them? What about now?


----------



## whoislang

The next fun part, well fun if you enjoy being crammed ostrich-style into a small hatch with a grinder spinning thousands of RPMs inches from your face. Air flow in here was minimal, sweat was maximal, and at one point I found myself in a scuba mask, due to lack of a full face respirator. The snorkel didn't necessarily work out as planned.

Before you ask, yes I drilled a pilot hole to decide if what I was cutting into was what I expected. It was, so away I chopped.










Yes your sponsons are foam filled. No they were not waterlogged. I almost had hoped they were because if so I was gonna save a bunch of weight. The foam itself probably only weight 2-3 lbs. It is an EPS foam, so it would've dissolved in contact with acetone, or polyester resin. Getting it out of there gave me a run for my temperament, and patience. I resorted to a small hand saw, and the ripping and tearing method. Once I was able to get the bulkhead cut down enough, it slid out, with some coaxing.










So much room for activities  one of the goals of this re-rig was almost complete 🍻



















Job done, kindof.


----------



## whoislang

Patching some of the holes on the console to make way for the new toggle switch layout, and Fusion head unit. Also needed to patch the three holes from the old ram swivel GPS mount (couldnt stand that thing. If you noticed I replaced it with a console extender from Tom at The Skiff Shop. Highly recommend, I added a cup holder, and the GPS is much more stable now. Hidden wires as well.)


Glassed with two layers of 1708 from the back.















Kerfed H80 foam core cut to fit, and resin filled. You need to grind and bevel down the edges of this once it dries so that you can glass from the front and then fair it flush. Leave room for like a mil of gel coat.









Glassed from the front. Its messy but it doesnt matter. Chop mat was used for these smaller round holes and drill holes. The hole on the right was used for a ghetto edition jackplate switch. I'll replace with a seastar blinker style switch. (Spoiler alert, it's legit 😎)
















I think this hole on the back deck was for a previous owner's cable steering rig tube? The other one by the CG plate I still have no idea what it was.


----------



## Capnredfish

whoislang said:


> The pictures are all there on my end, even if I log out, and if I switch from Chrome to Internet Explorer they still work. Not sure whats up with that. Page two has alot of pictures of the tear down. Let me know if it still doesnt work.
> 
> @Capnredfish you mentioned you couldn't see them? What about now?
> 
> View attachment 153335


yes I can


----------



## Capnredfish

May I ask why you cut out bulkhead to access that foam? You know the foam was added in 2007 model to meet coast guard rega to float level is swamped. I also think the bulk heads play a structural role.


----------



## whoislang

I did add some glass here in the bottom right corner of the sponson, I noticed some water dripping through when I was grinding through the bulkhead in this area. I just spread a lap of resin around the rest of the perimeter for peace of mind.








Still has some low spots. Will fill with gel. The center of this patch will get cut out for the radio so I'm not worried about it being perfect. You can use tape on either side of drill holes to get them pretty dang flush in one go. You still need to bevel it out to allow for paint. 
















First layer of gel. Turns out that the color doesnt match perfectly, so I will end up spraying the console completely after I finish sanding. You wont notice that it's a different color than the deck once the whole thing is painted. 
















Inside the sponson. A month later I still have gelcoat in my hair from doing the back wall. In hindsight, do the furthest back first, and work back to front. I was eager.


----------



## 7WT

Boy you are goin at it! The sponsons on my 2006 B2 have access hatches and no foam.


----------



## whoislang

Capnredfish said:


> May I ask why you cut out bulkhead to access that foam? You know the foam was added in 2007 model to meet coast guard rega to float level is swamped. I also think the bulk heads play a structural role.


Coast guard requirement for manufacturer only, as an individual owner I am allowed to modify in any way that I please. Its like ripping off the sticker on a pillow, the salesman must leave it attached. 
If I find myself in a sinking situation, I may kick myself, but really its all in the means to get more storage out of this little skiff. Check out some of the Watermans, their sponsons are completely open, and have massive storage compared to our skiffs. This will free up a ton of space. And allow for very neat wiring. I checked with Mark and he said that there's no risk of any structural issues with taking that part of the bulkhead out.


----------



## whoislang

7WT said:


> Boy you are goin at it! The sponsons on my 2006 B2 have access hatches and no foam.


Thanks man! And yeah the later years I guess CG got on him and made him close them up. Way nicer as functional space.


----------



## whoislang

Had to modify the underside to allow for my new toggle switches.
























Aaaaand you can see how poor the paint match was. I don't know what color the old white was, but mine is a Matterhorn white, which I didn't realize it had a slight blue in it.










Sanded smooth, ready to get sprayed to solve the paint match problem.


----------



## whoislang

Had to take a break from sanding and cutting and painting because red snapper season only came in for a total of 4 days this year. Needless to say, we did about the best my buddies 22ft Sea Pro could do. A limit of 3 hammer ARS, two nice cobia, and a really nice red grouper, a new species for me. Thing hit like a freight train and actually broke the drag on a spinfisher 8500. The red snappers were eating pogies off the freelines at one point. We threw plenty young ones back. Yes they were vented. No they aren't endangered. 

















yeti 75 overflowing with meat
















Me, 3/4 drunk thinking about how much I've got to sand tomorrow.


----------



## coconutgroves

@whoislang - that side console doesn't leave a lot of room to work in. I had to replace my hydraulic helm and it was beyotch. Said I am doing that once! 

Can't wait to see the results on your skiff. I love my B2 and have considered refinishing it instead of selling it.


----------



## whoislang

coconutgroves said:


> @whoislang - that side console doesn't leave a lot of room to work in. I had to replace my hydraulic helm and it was beyotch. Said I am doing that once!
> 
> Can't wait to see the results on your skiff. I love my B2 and have considered refinishing it instead of selling it.


You’ll see, it was a mother, but I’ve got it dialed. Thanks!


----------



## whoislang

Sprayed the console with the rest of the matterhorn white that I had. Yes its got some blue in it, but it came out awesome. You cant tell that its a different color than the deck. It comes out with a good bit of orange peel, but the next step is to wipe down with acetone, to get rid of the tackiness, and then sand with 600 and then 800 grit with the DA. I used some black 3m marking powder and it shows you really nicely where you have and havent sanded yet. Highs and lows are easy to target.

































Console rigging. New switches are all On-Off toggles from Blue Sea Systems. They have a great clicky feeling when switching and they have nice water resistant boots. I think its much cleaner than the big grey switch panel, and I can rig it with way less wires.

















I shortened the cables on the binnacle from 15' to 9'. This really cleared up some space in my aft compartment. I know they are supposed to have a loop in them somewhere but I have put 20 hours on it already setup like this and they work great.


----------



## whoislang

Had to pull off the steering wheel again for the new jackplate switch. These suckers don't like to give way so I built a small jig that I could tug on harder. Took about 30 mins to make with a grinder and some plywood/4x4's. The best way I found was to wedge a screwdriver between the helm and wheel and tap with a big hammer right on the nut until it popped off. Kinda ghetto but it worked. Wear your PPE kids.

















Everything bolted down.









Jackplate blinker switch is pro style 
If you don't have a console extender for your side console from Tom at the skiff shop, get one. They're pricey, but so far its worth every penny. Cupholder and GPS mount are great.









So much freaking nicer than before. Bird's nest no more.

























Now to run the speaker wires, switch panel wires to the bus which will be in the aft compartment, and the hot wires to the lights and pumps. I will also shorten the 6y5 and 704 remote wires by about 5 or 6 feet. Whoever rigged this before had so much extra length in their wires/cables.


----------



## whoislang

Console back on










This was frustrating. Mark I do blame your team for this one. The hatch was about half an inch off center in the boat. That means that my speakers wouldn't fit exactly symmetrical between the hatch and the rod tubes. Basically I decided to simply center them on each side and roll with it. Doesn't look too bad and I will probably be the only one to ever notice it. Ill forget about it after some years.









I've gotten used to putting big holes in things by now lol.


























These things put out some serious sound for just being 6.5". JL has always been the best in marine stereo in my opinion. I think the big box up front really helps add to the sound. Similar theory as your big plywood subwoofer box in your highschool silverado.


----------



## whoislang

Polished the switch panel backplate. Thing was pretty gnarly from before. Came out nicely. I've been using 3M heavy cut for everything, then McGuire's wax. Works awesome. Basic steps are 600, 800, heavy polish, then wax.

This switch panel is a 12 banger. It's chock full now that I'm finished adding everything. The old one was a 6 banger and almost every slot was double up which is unsafe and cuts the capability of each of your fuses down.









I finished painting the aft compartment and this picture is dark but its nice and slick now with good gelcoat. For these boxes you need to use the kind of gelcoat with wax already in it. regular gelcoat will come out too tacky and will hold dust and dirt and grease. Wires go to trim tabs and up the platform for anchor and down lights. I moved the fuel water separator inside of this hatch so that the bilge/splashwell could be more open and neat. I glassed in a small piece of core behind it so I could lag bolt it down.

















This hatch really became my pride and joy of the project. Don't get me wrong, wiring everything took 3 or 4 solid days to complete. Everything is heat shrink over heat shrink butt connectors so hopefully these connections last forever. I screwed the battery tray down because whatever crackhead rigged it before me had it simply bouncing around in the compartment. nothing like a 40lb corrosion bomb blasting through your nice rigging but hey, to each his own I guess. Yellow for the hot from the battery because Worst Marine was out of red 4awg and I wasn't waiting for amazon anymore.










Powered up for the first time. Most everything worked first go! Still wanted to straighten out the wiring a bit, and needed to wire the jackplate.









There is literally a whole new world of space in the boat now.









Now its complete. About as good as it gets for a home job. The extra 40amp is for the jackplate. Idk if that is too high but it seems like it draws alot of power. open to suggestions.


----------



## RJTaylor

Pretty sure my microjacker is a 30A


----------



## mmccull5

Looking great!

Have you thought about getting inside the hatch floors scanned for dekit?


----------



## whoislang

mmccull5 said:


> Looking great!
> 
> Have you thought about getting inside the hatch floors scanned for dekit?


No, I actually hadn’t thought of that! but could be neat. I worry that they’d get too dirty over time, and it’s tougher to clean in there. I like it being smooth, but maybe I’ll have a change of heart after a while!


----------



## rkmurphy526

Man this is awesome. Great work. Solid commentary, too!


----------



## 7WT

Fantastic! Maybe when I retire- if- I might do similar with my B2- have done electric over and took out all floor coverings- kind of like no covering for simple cleaning. Love the cup holder and chartplot/depth bracket extension. FYI I use a small tractor style starting battery for its light weight. I have my trolling battery and one of those small battery jumpers I carry if I have an issue though I never have.


----------



## coconutgroves

whoislang said:


> No, I actually hadn’t thought of that! but could be neat. I worry that they’d get too dirty over time, and it’s tougher to clean in there. I like it being smooth, but maybe I’ll have a change of heart after a while!


I cut Dri-dek tiles for the hatches in my B2. Water does find its way in those, not matter what you do. The raised tiles help keep things dry and are removable, so it is very easy to clean the hatches out.


----------



## coconutgroves

FYI.... in case anyone needs new hatch seals / tape:






Weather Seal & Hatch Tape TACO Marine


Prevent leaks and reduce rattling with our Weather Seal and Hatch Tape products. Made from the highest-quality synthetic rubber and rubber compounds, our Weather Seal absorbs shock and offers superior resistance to water absorption, sunlight damage and extreme temperatures. Our Hatch Tape...




tacomarine.com





I have not replaced mine yet, but had this recommendation from @WillW a ways back and he said they worked great.


----------



## Gadaboutgaddis

This is an awesome post. I love following your progress. I have restored several vintage race cars and watching this brings me back to that time as the work is very similar. Perhaps you have inspired me to restore a boat in the future!

Good job!

Gad


----------



## whoislang

coconutgroves said:


> FYI.... in case anyone needs new hatch seals / tape:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Weather Seal & Hatch Tape TACO Marine
> 
> 
> Prevent leaks and reduce rattling with our Weather Seal and Hatch Tape products. Made from the highest-quality synthetic rubber and rubber compounds, our Weather Seal absorbs shock and offers superior resistance to water absorption, sunlight damage and extreme temperatures. Our Hatch Tape...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> tacomarine.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I have not replaced mine yet, but had this recommendation from @WillW a ways back and he said they worked great.


I used D shaped seals for both hatches. They work great. Adhesive backing is super sticky


----------



## whoislang

Gadaboutgaddis said:


> This is an awesome post. I love following your progress. I have restored several vintage race cars and watching this brings me back to that time as the work is very similar. Perhaps you have inspired me to restore a boat in the future!
> 
> Good job!
> 
> Gad


Doooo it! You’ll hate yourself during but love yourself after!


----------



## mwolaver

whoislang said:


> These things put out some serious sound for just being 6.5". JL has always been the best in marine stereo in my opinion. I think the big box up front really helps add to the sound. Similar theory as your big plywood subwoofer box in your highschool silverado.


Now all you need is a cassette of "Back in Black"....


----------



## whoislang

I know that I said earlier that my favorite part of the rebuild was the aft hatch, however the bilge may take the cake. Previously the battery cables, 6y5, steering hoses, jackplate hoses, and throttle cables all went through the same ugly boot in the splashwell. Freaking mess of wires and was crazy ugly and hard to keep clean.

Now take a look at her 

Fuel, 6Y5, battery cables, and throttle/shift cables go through the main corrugated rig tube. Nice tophat flange from TH marine keeps water from dripping in if the splashwell fills up. not really designed for a 2 stroke but it works great.
Transducer and bilge pump wires go through a clamshell.

















These guys are pricey at 30$ each but worth it IMO. Strain reliever pigtails from SeaStar for steering/jackplate hoses. Went with a pretty slick symmetrical layout here. Example of how to correctly lay a bead of 4000 on a thru hull/ over hole fitting.
















Down light turns red, white and blue. Cant forget that Trump's america made this build possible between furlough and unemployment pay xD


----------



## whoislang

Jackplate wires before... no waterproof connectors and the pump itself had fallen off of the 1/4" backing plate used to screw it into the wall. Very surprised the solenoids still were working.
















So I made a new backing plate for them out of 1/2" starboard and replaced all the wiring and new waterproof connections.










Yall realize I am part monkey/octopus now. I guess I have long arms but screwing this to the back wall was a feat of engineering. Thing probly weights 15lbs and is very topheavy. But it's off the floor and out of the way now.


----------



## whoislang

Basically this concludes my build. Please please ask away for questions/comments/concerns I will always try to come back and answer them. It has been an incredible little journey getting to know this skiff inside and out, and I have learned so much along the way, and was able to put my rigging abilities to the test. Hopefully the skiff and its components will last for another 13 years and I have already begun making memories on her once again. 

Heres some more before and after pictures side by side.


----------



## Rich11111

My 2007 B2 has a side console too. On the water the starboard side is a little lower than port side. I am not sure if that is the nature of side console or is my sponsons styrofoam water logged. Dose you starboard side sit a little lower than port?


----------



## whoislang

Setup for chilling with the GF... beanbags make a world of difference for choppy days



















✌
-Langdon H


----------



## whoislang

Rich11111 said:


> My 2007 B2 has a side console too. On the water the starboard side is a little lower than port side. I am not sure if that is the nature of side console or is my sponsons styrofoam water logged. Dose you starboard side sit a little lower than port?


Battery (35lbs), jackplate pump (15lbs), console (45lbs), driver (xxxlbs) all are on starboard side. Even without the driver it will lean starboard. 95/700lbs is a big fraction. Run your tabs to adjust, that's what they're for.

I didn't find any water in my foam.


----------



## Rich11111

whoislang said:


> Even without the driver it will lean starboard.


Thx. You forgot the weight of recliner!


----------



## Capnredfish

Looking good.


----------



## coconutgroves

@whoislang - great work man, you definitely know your stuff. How hard was the old Seadek to remove and replace? Where did you get the replacement from?


----------



## whoislang

coconutgroves said:


> @whoislang - great work man, you definitely know your stuff. How hard was the old Seadek to remove and replace? Where did you get the replacement from?


Old stuff was a 🐝 tch to take off. Go to page 2. New stuff is Dekit, a local brand. Great stuff


----------



## Hightide03

@whoislang Nice write-up! We met the other day at Remley's when you were testing your prop. I have the other hunter green skiff in town. Impressive stuff man. 
-Austin


----------



## whoislang

Hightide03 said:


> @whoislang Nice write-up! We met the other day at Remley's when you were testing your prop. I have the other hunter green skiff in town. Impressive stuff man.
> -Austin


Appreciate it! Let’s get out there sometime


----------



## Hightide03

Absolutely! I’ll pole you around anytime in exchange for some resto tips


----------



## TieOneOnJax

Beautiful work man! Takes a different level of attention to detail and patience to get that wiring that clean. I’m very envious of how it looks under your console.


----------



## whoislang

TieOneOnJax said:


> Beautiful work man! Takes a different level of attention to detail and patience to get that wiring that clean. I’m very envious of how it looks under your console.


Thanks ! painstaking but worth it


----------



## whoislang

Got the chance to snap some nicer pictures of her. She looks good through my Nikon 📸


----------



## 7WT

Sweet!! Now go catch fish.


----------



## coconutgroves

Good looking boat! I went back and read from the beginning - man, you not joking about those steering arms. Had one on my Yammie 90 that was a beast. Used a high speed drill and wire brush to refinish inside and get it going smooth again. I put hydraulic on both my boats now, much much better.

I'll keep the Dekit info handy if and when I redo my B2. Yours came out really good man, congrats.


----------



## whoislang

coconutgroves said:


> Good looking boat! I went back and read from the beginning - man, you not joking about those steering arms. Had one on my Yammie 90 that was a beast. Used a high speed drill and wire brush to refinish inside and get it going smooth again. I put hydraulic on both my boats now, much much better.
> 
> I'll keep the Dekit info handy if and when I redo my B2. Yours came out really good man, congrats.


Yeah I sanded down the inside of the hydraulic tube where the arms go as well. An attempt at least preventing future seize up.
Thanks for the compliments. Your signature hits home lol. Screw em


----------



## FSUDrew99

whoislang said:


> Console back on
> 
> View attachment 154111
> 
> 
> This was frustrating. Mark I do blame your team for this one. The hatch was about half an inch off center in the boat. That means that my speakers wouldn't fit exactly symmetrical between the hatch and the rod tubes. Basically I decided to simply center them on each side and roll with it. Doesn't look too bad and I will probably be the only one to ever notice it. Ill forget about it after some years.
> View attachment 154112
> 
> 
> I've gotten used to putting big holes in things by now lol.
> 
> View attachment 154113
> View attachment 154114
> 
> 
> View attachment 154116
> 
> 
> These things put out some serious sound for just being 6.5". JL has always been the best in marine stereo in my opinion. I think the big box up front really helps add to the sound. Similar theory as your big plywood subwoofer box in your highschool silverado.


I installed the same speakers on mine and the hatch was also not centered. Drove me crazy but now I ever notice it. OCD sucks haha.


----------



## whoislang

FSUDrew99 said:


> I installed the same speakers on mine and the hatch was also not centered. Drove me crazy but now I ever notice it. OCD sucks haha.


I think the liner is slightly asymmetrical side to side which exaggerates it.


----------



## Salt

@whoislang Did you have an issue with water in the front hatch? I have some finding it’s way in.


----------



## coconutgroves

Salt said:


> @whoislang Did you have an issue with water in the front hatch? I have some finding it’s way in.


I do get some in mine but think it is due to the bow lights. It is very minimal and only happens when I am in heavy chop, like taking water on the bow chop. Normal conditions I do not get any. I haven't redone the bow lights to see if that solves the issue.


----------



## whoislang

Salt said:


> @whoislang Did you have an issue with water in the front hatch? I have some finding it’s way in.


I have the same thing. Its minimal so i dont worry too much, I usually chamois it out at the end of the day. I'm fairly certain that it is actually from the rain/condensation/washdown after the day is over rather than ingress due to running. It seems to come in from the bulkhead hatch.



coconutgroves said:


> I do get some in mine but think it is due to the bow lights. It is very minimal and only happens when I am in heavy chop, like taking water on the bow chop. Normal conditions I do not get any. I haven't redone the bow lights to see if that solves the issue.


I re did my bow eye lights and caulked the crap outta them so I know its not from there. That portion of the boat that is behind the bow eyes is separate from the liner where your gas tank is anyways. It would build up in front of the liner where you can't even get to it, so I find it hard to beleive that water ingress from bow eyes would make it into that liner where the bulkhead hatch is. Could be wrong.

If you really wanna know, spray a hose directly where you think you have leaks and look to see if you can find where the water pools up.


----------



## 7WT

I have not noticed any water in my front bow hatch. I did put new bow led lights in and also had to change my bow trailer hook as it broke- that was a bear to change out. Could possibly leak there as mine was quite rusted on the inside. Now sponson hatches, that's another story. I sponge those out after every trip


----------



## Salt

7WT said:


> Now sponson hatches, that's another story. I sponge those out after every trip


My sponsons were leaking from water pushed under the rear rub rail and finding it’s way in between the cap and hull. Recauk from driver station back and around may help solve your sponson leak.


----------



## coconutgroves

At least they thought ahead and put drain holes in the sponsons unlike some other boats. Water has a way of getting in. The majority of times my sponsons are dry, but I take water over the back they have a small amount in them. I also get a bit of water down at the stern, under the bilge insert by the battery - @Capnredfish helped me understand how this happens. The bilge insert is a separate piece from the cap, held together by marine caulk. If this is separated, water will penetrate.

@whoislang - good point on the bow lights - they do not sit exactly flush, so if not sealed, that is an entry point. But to your point, water is in the liner, so it has to be from something allowing water in there. There are lots of holes in the cap around that area - bow cleat, trolling motor access and mount.

Instead of a water hose, the compartment could be pressurized (even makeshift with a shop vac) to push air through it. Then take something that gives off smoke, incense or a cigarette, and hold it around the bow to see where air pushes out. Overkill? Maybe, but probably easier than spraying yourself with water and then trying to find where it drips and finds it way inside the hull.


----------



## Capnredfish

Dark garage, bright flashlight in the compartment or outside of it. Camera and or mirrors and you will easily see small pinholes or gaps. And look for water stains running down from suspected entry points


----------



## permitchaser

Just read the whole thread @whoislang you did a great job. Wiring is some thing that I can't do even if I put my ring doorbell on by my self.
Water and moisture is something all boaters fight. I think I finally have my have mine under control.
great looking right skiff man you should congratulate yourself


----------



## whoislang

permitchaser said:


> Just read the whole thread @whoislang you did a great job. Wiring is some thing that I can't do even if I put my ring doorbell on by my self.
> Water and moisture is something all boaters fight. I think I finally have my have mine under control.
> great looking right skiff man you should congratulate yourself


Thanks man I really appreciate it.


----------



## MatthewEOD

Great story, I’m into my to me boat as well. Luckily most of mine isn to bad. Just going to take some serous time wet sanding and polishing to make it look good again.


----------



## Phil Young

7WT said:


> I have not noticed any water in my front bow hatch. I did put new bow led lights in and also had to change my bow trailer hook as it broke- that was a bear to change out. Could possibly leak there as mine was quite rusted on the inside. Now sponson hatches, that's another story. I sponge those out after every trip


I have a badly worn bow eye on my B2. How did you remove and replace yours?

Phil Young


----------



## 7WT

put in brand new LED eye's and rewired. Don't recall the make at the moment- I will look to see if I have the invoice still


----------



## Phil Young

7WT said:


> put in brand new LED eye's and rewired. Don't recall the make at the moment- I will look to see if I have the invoice still


I may have not phrased my question correctly. By "bow eye" I meant "bow trailer hook". You stated "that was a bear to change out." How did you remove and replace yours?

Phil Young


----------



## 7WT

Oh sorry. Ok so I used my trolling motor base plate which is quite front and in front of the bulkhead in front of the gas tank as an access point and it now has a flush cover under it. I had this done by a nearby shop who does excellent work on my B2. Fyi the "inside" portion of the eye bolt was very rusted and why it broke while pulling the boat onto the bluerock trailer. While doing this I replaced the trolling motor outlet and wires. I also installed plastic bunk sliders on my bunks which make it incredibly easy to winch the skiff. Need to be careful on launching. My wheels are in the water about 2" as she slides off and I need to hold and slow the descent.


----------



## Phil Young

I was also thinking of accessing the the eye bolt from under the trolling motor base plate.

Thank you.

Phil Young


----------



## Rich11111

Capnredfish said:


> Your water is probably coming in right where I put red arrow. Right where transom, deck and splash well insert meet. That is where it comes in on mine. I put it in a dark garage used a mirror and a light. Easily see the small gap. And I used a hose to verify it. I got about a pint of water per trip. Sometimes none if I didn’t come off plane fast during the trip or dunk stern too far on launch or retrieve. And stayed out of rough water.
> View attachment 153058


I put on a cavitation plate on my B2 Beavertail and noticed water reaching the top of the transom now when in reverse and now water in starboard hatch. I recalled you had pointed out where you found water coming in from. I was able to confirm with a cup of water that I have the same problem where you pointed out. Would putting in a bead of 3M 4000 be a fix? How did you fix yours? Capnredfish did you make a transom wrap around aluminum cover? Thx


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## coconutgroves

Rich11111 said:


> I put on a cavitation plate on my B2 Beavertail and noticed water reaching the top of the transom now when in reverse and now water in starboard hatch. I recalled you had pointed out where you found water coming in from. I was able to confirm with a cup of water that I have the same problem where you pointed out. Would putting in a bead of 3M 4000 be a fix? How did you fix yours? Capnredfish did you make a transom wrap around aluminum cover? Thx


Yes, running a new bead of marine caulk around the splash well should solve the issue. I did not remove the existing bead, but used a clear over it that has held up and you can't notice it unless you really look.

But, that boat design (sponsons) isn't really design well for reverse, especially if you are alone or have two people aft. There will be too much squat, but I have learned that putting my jack plate all the way down helps prevent it from being worse. I am about to put new seals on the hatches and some new compression latches to see if that helps keep water out of the hatches. But again, I rarely get any in the battery compartment now thanks to the tips from @Capnredfish.


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## Rich11111

coconutgroves said:


> Yes, running a new bead of marine caulk around the splash well should solve the issue. I did not remove the existing bead, but used a clear over it that has held up and you can't notice it unless you really look.
> @Capnredfish.


Mine doesn't have any caulk on the top where the cap meets the transom. I was able to poor water on that gap and quickly saw water in battery hatch. Will clean then fill with marine caulk in a few days.


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## 7WT

Hey Coconut, let me know what seals you end up putting on your sponson hatches please? I also put on compression latches- still get some water- about a cup each trip- port side typically more than starboard for some reason.


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## Capnredfish

Rich11111 said:


> Mine doesn't have any caulk on the top where the cap meets the transom. I was able to poor water on that gap and quickly saw water in battery hatch. Will clean then fill with marine caulk in a few days.
> View attachment 164721


I added an arrow for a location the can leak. In this corner where rub rail ends on the bottom side.


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## coconutgroves

@Rich11111 - what @Capnredfish posted is the spot, not where you had the arrows.

That caulk bead runs all the way around, so you need to make sure to completely seal it all the way around as well. Water will slash around the front as well. That entire splash well is a separate piece from the cap, hence the caulk.


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## coconutgroves

7WT said:


> Hey Coconut, let me know what seals you end up putting on your sponson hatches please? I also put on compression latches- still get some water- about a cup each trip- port side typically more than starboard for some reason.


Will do, I have some seal info saved somewhere, just need to go search for it.


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## whoislang

Anyone have any insight into welded rod holder placement on poling platforms? 

I'm having a new one fabricated as we speak and currently looking at straight back about halfway up the rear legs. they are 15* holders with gimbal mounts for my larger rods.


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## SC on the FLY

Langdon I can get you some measurements on mine when I get home mine are factory welded on


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## whoislang

SC on the FLY said:


> Langdon I can get you some measurements on mine when I get home mine are factory welded on


Thanks please do. Im in between this setup or just going with the clamp on ones.


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## BrownDog

whoislang said:


> Thanks please do. Im in between this setup or just going with the clamp on ones.


I have 2 weld on holders I cut off my platform sitting on a shelf if you want them.

For awhile I had a clamp on holder mounted low on the front leg of my platform. This was so the rod would minimally stick up but I could grab it from the platform.


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## whoislang

BrownDog said:


> I have 2 weld on holders I cut off my platform sitting on a shelf if you want them.
> 
> For awhile I had a clamp on holder mounted low on the front leg of my platform. This was so the rod would minimally stick up but I could grab it from the platform.


Thanks man, I already dropped the boat off at the fab shop but I would've grabbed them if I had asked before! Just playing with placement now


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## SC on the FLY




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## Water Bound

Is Marc doing it?


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## whoislang

Water Bound said:


> Is Marc doing it?


Unfortunately no, I ended up bringing it to a different shop that built the platform that I am modeling it off of.


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## coconutgroves

@SC on the FLY - love that step design on the platform with the SeaDek. Did you fab that piece yourself? The cuts are very precise - I've cut those before and I can never get them to come out as nice as I'd like.

I just got a Whipray and am going to powder coat by platforms, but will need to find a solution to the steps. Using SeaDek like this is an option.


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## SC on the FLY

coconutgroves said:


> @SC on the FLY - love that step design on the platform with the SeaDek. Did you fab that piece yourself? The cuts are very precise - I've cut those before and I can never get them to come out as nice as I'd like.
> 
> I just got a Whipray and am going to powder coat by platforms, but will need to find a solution to the steps. Using SeaDek like this is an option.


Just saw this , yes template with mylar, cut Seadek with razor knife on plywood, sanded edges with a palm sander


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## whoislang

Back home for good. Cushions coming this week.


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## coconutgroves

whoislang said:


> Back home for good. Cushions coming this week.


Man, I should have given you the guy that did my cushions. They came out great:



















Rusty's Custom Upholstery in San Antonio - he ships. He also did the cushions for my Whipray - came out great:









Home


Rusty's Custom Upholstery & Marine Seating offers custom built cooler cushions and center console backrests to fit most premium coolers and boat consoles.




rustyscustomupholstery.com


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## Capnredfish

I need a new set myself. Cost?


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## whoislang

coconutgroves said:


> Man, I should have given you the guy that did my cushions. They came out great:
> 
> View attachment 169820
> 
> View attachment 169821
> 
> 
> 
> Rusty's Custom Upholstery in San Antonio - he ships. He also did the cushions for my Whipray - came out great:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Home
> 
> 
> Rusty's Custom Upholstery & Marine Seating offers custom built cooler cushions and center console backrests to fit most premium coolers and boat consoles.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> rustyscustomupholstery.com


I hated the slide on ones. Already patched the holes from them


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## coconutgroves

whoislang said:


> I hated the slide on ones. Already patched the holes from them


What style did you go with? I didn't mind the slide rails - helped keep things in place, even when trailering. But I also didn't see any alternatives that I liked.


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## whoislang

coconutgroves said:


> What style did you go with? I didn't mind the slide rails - helped keep things in place, even when trailering. But I also didn't see any alternatives that I liked.


Bolt on thick ones. Had a few hairy instances where my passenger almost ejecto seated when the cushion slipped if I caught a wave wrong or turned when they weren’t expecting to. These will be rock solid and impervious to water, spills, blood, sunscreen, grease etc


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## whoislang

Cass at New Moon was awesome to work with. Responsive, great quality cushions that should last for a long long time. He recently has started supplying the upgraded level of cushions for Hell's Bay.
























I also lost the functionality of having a down light with this new platform so I wired a hatch light into the old switch. Pretty nice for digging around in the dark.

















Phase 2 is now complete. Cant imagine what phase 3 might bring


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## ReelFisher

Man that turned out sweet! I would put some 303 Protectant down on those things before you use them too much. Been using it on mine every few months the last 3 years and they still look brand new.


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## mmccull5

Just heard new moon was doing the upgraded cushions for HB.. yours turned out great!

x2 on 303. My local guy swore by it years ago. I've been using it ever since. Use it on the rubrail and trailer tires, too.


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## Sublime

@whoislang 

Awesome job. Couple of questions.

You say the Blue Sea toggle type switches save on wiring. How so? I've always had very simple skiffs, so electronics aren't my strong suit (yet). 

Secondly, how is the console secured to the gunnel?


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## whoislang

Sublime said:


> @whoislang
> 
> Awesome job. Couple of questions.
> 
> You say the Blue Sea toggle type switches save on wiring. How so? I've always had very simple skiffs, so electronics aren't my strong suit (yet).
> 
> Secondly, how is the console secured to the gunnel?


They are just easy one in, one out type of switches. Keeps wiring down and to me they are the simplest to rig. When you get into the backlit multi-function rocker type switches they can have many wires coming out of the same switch that makes it a little tougher to grasp what’s going where. They’re not too bad if you take your time. Biggest thing for me was what is the smallest simplest switch that gets the job done. 

The console is simply bolted to the cap on one side and bolted to the starboard rod holders on the front which are screwed to the cockpit liner. I’ve heard of some being glued or glassed on. This made it easy to remove and wire up outside the boat during the re-wire.


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## whoislang

ReelFisher said:


> Man that turned out sweet! I would put some 303 Protectant down on those things before you use them too much. Been using it on mine every few months the last 3 years and they still look brand new.


The fabric is actually not your average vinyl. It’s a silicone based fabric that should be far more resilient in the UV/salt/humidity environment. I will see what Cass recommends as far as protectant. He claims grease/oil, UV, sunscreen, blood are all no problem. We shall see


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## coconutgroves

+1 on 303. I've used it for years on all my boats. Really does protect for a long time without the residue like some other products.

Great looking seats man - that's like pillow top seating! You are going to be comfortable on those long runs!


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## whoislang

moar pichers


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## coconutgroves

Looking great man. You've done great work on it.

I do see she is listing starboard at rest. I recall the battery being on that side - have you thought on moving that to have it completely balanced? Once you get people on it weight shifts for sure, so may not be a big deal.


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## Salt

Looking good. What’s the weight on that 70? How’s the performance?


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## coconutgroves

Salt said:


> Looking good. What’s the weight on that 70? How’s the performance?


The yammie is 228 lbs - the E-Tec 60 that is common on these is 240 lbs. Not too big a difference. I get the 70 gives this a nice push. I am going to say high 30s.


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## whoislang

coconutgroves said:


> Looking great man. You've done great work on it.
> 
> I do see she is listing starboard at rest. I recall the battery being on that side - have you thought on moving that to have it completely balanced? Once you get people on it weight shifts for sure, so may not be a big deal.


Yes it sits a little heavy to starboard. Battery, jackplate pump, console all exacerbate that. Fishes best and most level with two people, the draft is 6-8”. Can squeeze her through most anywhere.

Where do you suggest I move the battery to?




coconutgroves said:


> The yammie is 228 lbs - the E-Tec 60 that is common on these is 240 lbs. Not too big a difference. I get the 70 gives this a nice push. I am going to say high 30s.


Top speed is 38.


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## Capnredfish

whoislang said:


> Yes it sits a little heavy to starboard. Battery, jackplate pump, console all exacerbate that. Fishes best and most level with two people, the draft is 6-8”. Can squeeze her through most anywhere.
> 
> Where do you suggest I move the battery to?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Top speed is 38.


I bought a 4lb lithium motorcycle battery and mounted jack plate pump on center bulkhead, if your skiff has it. Aluminum steering wheel will shed a few pounds too.


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## coconutgroves

I think the pump is close to 20 lbs, maybe a bit less. The battery is probably is 40 lbs.

So you have 60 lbs starboard, on top of that is the console weight.

I think just shifting the battery to port will do it. HB puts the battery just offset from center port - not full to port, about halfway from center to port.

But at the end of the day, I fished that same boat with the same weight distribution and never could really sense it. Changes like this are truly putting the cherry on top and polishing the trophy you already won. . However, from tracking your entire restore, you are very detailed guy, so you may have already been thinking of this!


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## whoislang

You had your own B2 but forgot the livewell takes up the port side... yes we already talked about these details

What motorcycle battery is 4lbs that can keep up with livewell, bilge, and other lights and electronics? The lithium ones I’ve looked at with the same stats of my hybrid blue top are still 15lbs. What center bulkhead are you taking about? I also don’t think the steering wheel midship is holding me back substantially.

Yes there’s things I could do to save weight off the transom, but at the price of switching to a micro jacker or removing the JP altogether and repositioning my battery to somewhere unreasonable it won’t be worth it. She’s done for now.


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## coconutgroves

Yep the port hatch doubles as a live well. And the battery would take up a third of that. I've seen some move the battery to the bow storage to balance the weight, but I would not do that on the B2.

She looks killer man, again, great work. Enjoy it! And props to posting all the work - others will use this one day for guidance. 
.


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## Capnredfish

Mine has a panel/bulkhead dead center between both hatches. Another member here runs 2 of the batteries with electronics. As for lights. Shut them off when not running. Just suggestions to help that list.


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## whoislang

Capnredfish said:


> Mine has a panel/bulkhead dead center between both hatches. Another member here runs 2 of the batteries with electronics. As for lights. Shut them off when not running. Just suggestions to help that list.


Nice with the bulkhead. Mine and I believe most B2's Ospreys are open between the livewell and electronics hatch. What year is yours?


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## Capnredfish

06


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## whoislang

Capnredfish said:


> 06


Nice so you probably also have the hatches in the sponsons? Would be nice. Just wish mark wouldve built in a deck hatch in the front. The door on the bulkhead up there is so lousy and tough to access/ utilize the full space.


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## coconutgroves

I've heard many complain about those hatches in the sponsons taking on water.

Re the bow storage - I did ask the Skiff Shop if they could do a bow locker mod to it and they said yes, but I did not ask how much. When I was considering keeping my B2 and was going to do a color change, this was an item I was going to seriously consider. It would really change the boat and make the storage way more usable. And I didn't even use the live well - it became more storage since it is very limited.

But, you could technically place the battery in the bow - I thought about that again and forgot that the B2 came rigged for trolling motors. That would also reduce the stern squat and help lift the stern while on pole.


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## Capnredfish

The rear hatches don’t collect more water than the other hatches. They were removed to get the skiff Coast Guard approved. Needed more flotation aft when skiff was filled with weight in the test pool. I had a picture of that test long ago. Can’t find it now.


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## whoislang

Capnredfish said:


> The rear hatches don’t collect more water than the other hatches. They were removed to get the skiff Coast Guard approved. Needed more flotation aft when skiff was filled with weight in the test pool. I had a picture of that test long ago. Can’t find it now.


How would filling them with foam help float better.... displacement is displacement... unless your taking on water.

Are you saying you did this to your own skiff or just saying this is what mark did?


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## Capnredfish

When weighted the boat wouldn’t float level, stern went under if I recall. That is what Mark did. I did not do it to mine. Skiffs with rear hatches got a new Coast Guard plate


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## whoislang

coconutgroves said:


> I've heard many complain about those hatches in the sponsons taking on water.
> 
> Re the bow storage - I did ask the Skiff Shop if they could do a bow locker mod to it and they said yes, but I did not ask how much. When I was considering keeping my B2 and was going to do a color change, this was an item I was going to seriously consider. It would really change the boat and make the storage way more usable. And I didn't even use the live well - it became more storage since it is very limited.
> 
> But, you could technically place the battery in the bow - I thought about that again and forgot that the B2 came rigged for trolling motors. That would also reduce the stern squat and help lift the stern while on pole.


Thats a long run for my engine cables.... I know it would help but maybe ill just come across a nice lithium battery at some point. till then I play with how much gas I fill up with and stand a little to the port side. its the difference of an inch. but some say a few inches is hell at 90mph


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## Draftsman

Man, always loved the side consoles. Looks fantastic. Congrats on the awesome resto


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## Hampton

Capnredfish said:


> Here is my 06. Looking forward to this. Mine is not in any need of restoration. If you uncover any of the hidden construction, particularly under the back deck take pictures.
> View attachment 151440


How much do you want for this boat


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## whoislang

Playing with the idea of putting her on the market. This thread gets me in my feels, but make me a realistic offer and we can talk. 

Since the last post I've added a new Garmin GPS with sidescan GT56 UHD transducer. Also added was NMEA capability and GFS10 fuel sensor so I now get live GPH/MPG on the Garmin. Pretty slick for long trips knowing exactly how much gas you have at any time. Steering wheel is now Gemlux Bluewater. There is no longer anything older than 2020 on this boat besides the hull and motor. I am confident this is the most rigged out B2 you will find and as you can see from this thread the list of personalizations is endless.


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## Salt

Interested to see what price this will go for. GLWS, I know you put a lot of effort into restoring this and you have one of the best outboards ever made.

IMO, B2’s are way undervalued historically. It would cost much more to replace the hull performance - Especially with some Gheenoes selling for $20k or more (laughable).


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## coconutgroves

Oh man, someone is going to get a nice ride! I was actually just talking about your skiff this weekend with a friend.

Curious, what are you moving to?


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