# Bateau FS14 Low Sheer Build



## commtrd (Aug 1, 2015)

Awesome! Love seeing these builds can't get enough. Hope to build my own someday...


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

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## commtrd (Aug 1, 2015)

Wow that is just some crazy beautiful workmanship there!


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## trekker (Sep 19, 2015)

Lmao. That is awesome work.


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## c_ronius (Mar 16, 2010)

Beautiful!


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

Wow... thanks for sharing! It looks so simple when you can fly through the pictures like that


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## YnR (Feb 16, 2015)

That is stellar. Any pics of it in the water?


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

YnR said:


> That is stellar. Any pics of it in the water?


Thanks everyone for the compliments, and no, I don't have any pictures in the water yet. I do not have a motor yet, and it may be sold already as is without a motor. I'll know for sure this week. Mike


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## Net 30 (Mar 24, 2012)

Wow...I feel like a 2-left handed dweeb when I see the quality of your work...congrats!

I especially like the design of the rod holders...very sexy curves.


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## topnative2 (Feb 22, 2009)

skills...router work is awesome......great idea using the rod racks to support the top deck!


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

How did you do the non-skid in the cockpit? It looks less abrasive than most of the other finishes I've seen.


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## CPurvis (Apr 6, 2016)

How much does something like that sale for?


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

bryson said:


> How did you do the non-skid in the cockpit? It looks less abrasive than most of the other finishes I've seen.


The entire boat is painted with Awlgrip, the decks rolled with a foam roller, than sprinkling the non skid as evenly as possible, than rolling back over very lightly. I use a jar, with a tight fitting lid of course, with holes drilled in the lid like a big salt shaker. There are a number of brands of what I think is silica sand in coarse and fine grain, and I always use the coarse, which is still extremely fine, finer than salt granules. I just suggest perfecting your technique on a sample piece before trying it on your boat. I know some guys mix the non skid into the paint, but I haven't tried it that way, and worry about keeping the non skid suspended and mixed evenly in the paint.


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

CPurvis said:


> How much does something like that sale for?


Putting a price on a home built boat is the biggest challenge for me. There's no way I could ever get enough money to cover my labor, not building to a high quality at least. That being said, I still plan on building another, but with the realization I won't be making as much per hour as I'm accustomed to making in my real business. It's definitely more a labor of love. Unless I get money up front for a boat, I realize there's the possibility I'll be stuck with the boat for a while, but I can deal with that. Nothing wrong with having a spare skiff or two laying around. At $10,000 I do not make that much profit, and the buyer would need a trailer and a 15-20 hp motor, but depending on a number of variables, details, etc., that's a ball park figure.


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## CPurvis (Apr 6, 2016)

Hmm that's not a bad 


seapro17sv said:


> Putting a price on a home built boat is the biggest challenge for me. There's no way I could ever get enough money to cover my labor, not building to a high quality at least. That being said, I still plan on building another, but with the realization I won't be making as much per hour as I'm accustomed to making in my real business. It's definitely more a labor of love. Unless I get money up front for a boat, I realize there's the possibility I'll be stuck with the boat for a while, but I can deal with that. Nothing wrong with having a spare skiff or two laying around. At $10,000 I do not make that much profit, and the buyer would need a trailer and a 15-20 hp motor, but depending on a number of variables, details, etc., that's a ball park figure.[/Q
> 
> Hmmm that's not a bad price for a boat like that.


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

So let's see that beauty in the water under power...then again, its to pretty to dirty it with augua


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## Ray England (Dec 11, 2016)

WOW, amazing work. My father and I are going to start on this same project within the month. Our shop is set up more than enough for a build like this so we are ready I think.... Just curious looks like you are more than experienced, your workmanship is unreal, we were both very impressed looking through the pictures. About how many hours would you say this one took you and roughly how much in materials. Ill make sure to post my build.


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

Ray England said:


> WOW, amazing work. My father and I are going to start on this same project within the month. Our shop is set up more than enough for a build like this so we are ready I think.... Just curious looks like you are more than experienced, your workmanship is unreal, we were both very impressed looking through the pictures. About how many hours would you say this one took you and roughly how much in materials. Ill make sure to post my build.


Thanks Ray for the compliments. If this is your first build you'll love it, and if you're like most guys you'll want to build another. As to time to build, that of course varies quite a bit depending on the tools you have and your level of experience with those tools. That being said, these boats are technically very easy to lay out and build, with an easy and forgiving building method, plywood stitch and glue, some glass work, and lots of fairing and sanding. If you want a really nice finish, including finished bilges as I did, it takes more time than a more work boat type finish. Also more expensive, because the epoxy paints such as Awlgrip are very expensive. Other added expenses are quality hardware, Blue Seas electrical components, built in fuel tank and fittings, etc. etc. Add in a zillion gloves, rollers, brushes, etc., and the costs add up fast. Not trying to discourage you at all, just want to lay out the facts so you have a better feel for how much the boat can ultimately cost in the end. Both My FS18 and the FS14 used approximately the same amount of materials, each costing $4000-$5000. Both boats will be at the "Trick My Skiff" event in Crystal River this Saturday the 18th if you're near there. Good luck with your build, you won't regret it, and if you have any questions feel free to give me a call. Also, a few shots of the FS18.
View attachment 6308
386-864-0720 Mike
View attachment 6306
View attachment 6307


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## PeteS (Dec 30, 2016)

How big of a pain in the you know what is it going to be to get it out of the screened in porch?


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

PeteS said:


> How big of a pain in the you know what is it going to be to get it out of the screened in porch?


4 guys can carry the boat, only problem being, it needs to be put on the trailer this week for the "trick My Skiff" get together this Saturday in Crystal River and all my buddy's are injured right now with back and shoulder problems.


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## CurtisWright (May 9, 2012)

wow. you win.


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

Does it really take 4 guys to carry it? I figured 2 guys could manhandle that boat pretty easily.

I have always been surprised a low shear FS14 isn't more popular on this forum given all the guys that are interested in the Solo or Ambush style builds. This is a lot more boat for the effort. I guess the design has been around too long and just faded into the wallpaper.

Of course, yours sets the bar intimidatingly high. I don't have the work ethic or attention span to even pretend I could match your work.

Nate


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

WhiteDog70810 said:


> Does it really take 4 guys to carry it? I figured 2 guys could manhandle that boat pretty easily.
> 
> I have always been surprised a low shear FS14 isn't more popular on this forum given all the guys that are interested in the Solo or Ambush style builds. This is a lot more boat for the effort. I guess the design has been around too long and just faded into the wallpaper.
> 
> ...


Thanks Nate for the compliments. I did manage to get some guys to help me get the boat out of the screen room. Was a bit of a struggle, but made it safely to the trailer without dropping it. This boat can't be compared to a Solo Skiff or Ambush, it's much larger, and heavier, probably around 300 pounds, and 63" wide. Although the FS14 design has been around for a long time, my low sheer is only the second one built. I have no idea how it will perform, since I haven't floated it yet, and do not have a motor.


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## Cody Nelson (May 12, 2017)

Awesome looking skiff, I absolutely love it! I am in the planning phase (purchased plans and beginning materials) of building this same boat.

My question is a complete novice one but, here it goes. how to you get that natural wood look on the edges of the cockpit? Do you not fiberglass over those areas and stain and seal it with something else?

Again, awesome looking boat.


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

Cody Nelson said:


> Awesome looking skiff, I absolutely love it! I am in the planning phase (purchased plans and beginning materials) of building this same boat.
> 
> My question is a complete novice one but, here it goes. how to you get that natural wood look on the edges of the cockpit? Do you not fiberglass over those areas and stain and seal it with something else?
> 
> Again, awesome looking boat.


Hey Cody, and thanks for the compliment. A few things about the boat; I raised the sheer 1" higher than the plans, and also lowered the stringers 1/2", which gave me a little extra height for the fuel tank, and just enough room under the gunwales to hang rods without the reels laying on the floor. If I were to build another one I would raise the sheer 1 1/2" to have a tiny bit more room for both. It all worked out but it was tight. I also moved frame B forward about 8" so it would be easier to get 7' rods in the cockpit and into the rod tubes and it worked out great, and I would definitely do the same thing again. When Jacques and Jeff saw the boat they agreed that my changes improved the boat, but I haven't checked to see if they've changed the plans. Jeff actually bought the boat from me to take to boat shows, so I never did get the chance to put a motor on it. I'm sure when he puts a motor on the boat he'll post the results.....As far as the wood trim, I used Rock Maple that I glass over the top edge when I glass the deck, than round it over with a router. The face of the wood has 3 coats of epoxy, than 2 coats of varnish. Most builders would glass the outside rub rail, or put one of the rubber bumpers, but I just left it as is, and figure I can touch up dings. If it became too much of a hassle I could always use one of the rubber rub rails. I've been using the hell out of my FS18 for a year with very little damage to the wood, and I don't baby the boat, coming back from plenty of trips with the boat covered in tree branches and junk. Maple is very hard, and the epoxy is tough as well.





















Feel free to ask questions here and on the Bateau forum. A few shots of my latest build. It's finished but I haven't downloaded pics yet, and I'm waiting for my motor from the shop. It's the SK14 solo skiff, but I raised the sheer 1" Mike


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## ShugC (Apr 23, 2016)

seapro17sv said:


> Thanks Ray for the compliments. If this is your first build you'll love it, and if you're like most guys you'll want to build another. As to time to build, that of course varies quite a bit depending on the tools you have and your level of experience with those tools. That being said, these boats are technically very easy to lay out and build, with an easy and forgiving building method, plywood stitch and glue, some glass work, and lots of fairing and sanding. If you want a really nice finish, including finished bilges as I did, it takes more time than a more work boat type finish. Also more expensive, because the epoxy paints such as Awlgrip are very expensive. Other added expenses are quality hardware, Blue Seas electrical components, built in fuel tank and fittings, etc. etc. Add in a zillion gloves, rollers, brushes, etc., and the costs add up fast. Not trying to discourage you at all, just want to lay out the facts so you have a better feel for how much the boat can ultimately cost in the end. Both My FS18 and the FS14 used approximately the same amount of materials, each costing $4000-$5000. Both boats will be at the "Trick My Skiff" event in Crystal River this Saturday the 18th if you're near there. Good luck with your build, you won't regret it, and if you have any questions feel free to give me a call. Also, a few shots of the FS18.
> View attachment 6308
> 386-864-0720 Mike
> View attachment 6306
> View attachment 6307


Who built the poling platform? I like how it is set forward and not as high. being 6'3 with a bad back I feel I can give up some platform height to make climbing on and off easier.


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## Pole Position (Apr 3, 2016)

What were your thoughts about reducing the size of cockpit drain on the sk14? As always, the craftsmanship looks exceptional.....


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

ShugC said:


> Who built the poling platform? I like how it is set forward and not as high. being 6'3 with a bad back I feel I can give up some platform height to make climbing on and off easier.


I found a young guy on Craigslist in St. Augustine, and he did a great job. I tried to contact him a few months ago and didn't get a reply. in fact he had bought the FS14 plans and was ready to start a build in Aluminum, but I have no idea what happened. His name is Zeke, and his number was 904-377-2086. Reminds me that I need to try and get in touch with him again. I had the platform made to 27" high for ease of climbing up and down, but mostly as a comfortable seat to drive the boat. The back side is cut away to allow the motor to tilt all the way up.


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## ShugC (Apr 23, 2016)

seapro17sv said:


> I found a young guy on Craigslist in St. Augustine, and he did a great job. I tried to contact him a few months ago and didn't get a reply. in fact he had bought the FS14 plans and was ready to start a build in Aluminum, but I have no idea what happened. His name is Zeke, and his number was 904-377-2086. Reminds me that I need to try and get in touch with him again. I had the platform made to 27" high for ease of climbing up and down, but mostly as a comfortable seat to drive the boat. The back side is cut away to allow the motor to tilt all the way up.


Thanks,


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

Pole Position said:


> What were your thoughts about reducing the size of cockpit drain on the sk14? As always, the craftsmanship looks exceptional.....


Thanks, I didn't like the idea of water sloshing in and out of the boat, and looking at the hull with the sheer raised 1" it didn't look as if the boat would be taking water over the sides or the bow. Since I haven't really run it yet I can't be sure, but if water in the boat becomes an issue, I'll just cut the transom. I plan on keeping the drain plugged, and if a little water gets in, pull the plug and run the boat to have it drain. I'll post the results as soon as I put the motor on it, hopefully next week. Mike


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## RunningOnEmpty (Jun 20, 2015)

Very nice! I sold my gheenoe and bought a big flats boat with the intentions of building a micro. I do custom wood work and the shop is loaded with every tool a man could ever need. Finding the time is my only problem.


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## noeettica (Sep 23, 2007)

Awesome !
Too bad that no matter how nice a little skiff is the
"Snits" come on here and put it down and tell you
it is of little value ...

In my opinion your boat is amazing ! and hope to one day see it in person ...


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

noeettica said:


> Awesome !
> Too bad that no matter how nice a little skiff is the
> "Snits" come on here and put it down and tell you
> it is of little value ...
> ...


Thanks to both Noeettica and RunningOnEmpty. I've had nothing but nice compliments on my builds on the forum, but I realize a home built boat is not for everyone. That being said, a home build is definitely a viable option for anyone that has the time and patience, and some basic tools, to own a really nice skiff at a lower cost than most factory built boats. Jacques has plans for a wide variety of boats to fit a lot of different needs, and the actual building process is not difficult, just somewhat time consuming. I had 2 reasons for building my first skiff, 1, I knew that I would never be able to afford the skiff I wanted, even used, and 2, I have every tool needed for the job, and know how to use them. I still hesitated for over a year, just reading and studying the Bateau Forum fearing getting started and not finishing. The first day I started to lay out the hull panels I was hooked, as most builders are, and enjoyed every minute of the build, in fact enough to build 2 more afterwards. So, if anyone is on the fence trying to decide whether to start a boat build, I say go for it, it's a decision you won't regret. Mike


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## Cody Nelson (May 12, 2017)

Hello Mike,
Could you explain the process of raising the sheer, what all changes on the original plans? I really would like to include the rod storage on my boat. However, I am a bit cautious about diverting from the plans to much because this is my first build.
Thanks,
Cody.


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

Cody Nelson said:


> Hello Mike,
> Could you explain the process of raising the sheer, what all changes on the original plans? I really would like to include the rod storage on my boat. However, I am a bit cautious about diverting from the plans to much because this is my first build.
> Thanks,
> Cody.


Hey Cody, Raising the sheer is about the easiest change you can make. Just add an inch to each frame, being sure to add to the top of the frame, not the hull bottom. The frames will all sit down on the strong back, and you'll position the frames as per drawing A319/9. After the hull is glassed and flipped, temporary frame C is no longer needed. I than laminated a few layers of wood around the rub rail that stiffens the hull and pulls the hull into its natural shape. Now that the hull is fairly rigid and has a nice shape you can glass the inside, after which you'll install stringers and frames. All the frames will have to be trimmed to fit the hull, because every hull will take a slightly different shape, and you'll also be trimming where the stringers are filleted and glassed. Don't be concerned with gaps, even large gaps, you don't want to force an ugly bend in the hull shape. The gaps get filled with thickened epoxy, than glassed, and with plywood and epoxy building you always want a gap, never a hard spot with plywood against plywood. I forget the exact amount I moved frame B forward, but I do remember my cockpit ending up at 58". To move frame B forward the 6" or 8" you'll have to trim it a little at a time until you get a good fit. For the side panels you'll have to also add 1" to all the dimensions along the top edge, or sheer, on drawing A319/4. Make sure you add to the correct side, the very bottom of the drawing. Note the angle of the transom and bow. No need to make any changes to the bottom panels, but you ban add 1" to the transom. Personally, I leave the transom long because it hangs off the back of the strong back anyway, that way I can cut it later to get the height exactly right after I've sat the motor on the boat. If you're not on the Bateau forum you need to be, because you'll get a lot of info there. When you lay out the side and bottom panels, lay out a grid on the plywood and be real careful with all your measurements, than tack some small nails at the points where your grid lines meet the panel edges and use a long flexible batten to bend along the nails. You should end up with a clean bend along all edges without any kinks or jogs. If it doesn't look perfect, don't cut until you figure out the mistake. I did find on both the FS14 and the FS18 a dimension that was off 1/8" and if you just pull the nail in that spot it should fall into its proper space. Good luck with the build, and if you have any questions don't hesitate to ask here and on Bateau. It's a fun process, you'll love it. Mike


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## Cody Nelson (May 12, 2017)

seapro17sv said:


> Hey Cody, Raising the sheer is about the easiest change you can make. Just add an inch to each frame, being sure to add to the top of the frame, not the hull bottom. The frames will all sit down on the strong back, and you'll position the frames as per drawing A319/9. After the hull is glassed and flipped, temporary frame C is no longer needed. I than laminated a few layers of wood around the rub rail that stiffens the hull and pulls the hull into its natural shape. Now that the hull is fairly rigid and has a nice shape you can glass the inside, after which you'll install stringers and frames. All the frames will have to be trimmed to fit the hull, because every hull will take a slightly different shape, and you'll also be trimming where the stringers are filleted and glassed. Don't be concerned with gaps, even large gaps, you don't want to force an ugly bend in the hull shape. The gaps get filled with thickened epoxy, than glassed, and with plywood and epoxy building you always want a gap, never a hard spot with plywood against plywood. I forget the exact amount I moved frame B forward, but I do remember my cockpit ending up at 58". To move frame B forward the 6" or 8" you'll have to trim it a little at a time until you get a good fit. For the side panels you'll have to also add 1" to all the dimensions along the top edge, or sheer, on drawing A319/4. Make sure you add to the correct side, the very bottom of the drawing. Note the angle of the transom and bow. No need to make any changes to the bottom panels, but you ban add 1" to the transom. Personally, I leave the transom long because it hangs off the back of the strong back anyway, that way I can cut it later to get the height exactly right after I've sat the motor on the boat. If you're not on the Bateau forum you need to be, because you'll get a lot of info there. When you lay out the side and bottom panels, lay out a grid on the plywood and be real careful with all your measurements, than tack some small nails at the points where your grid lines meet the panel edges and use a long flexible batten to bend along the nails. You should end up with a clean bend along all edges without any kinks or jogs. If it doesn't look perfect, don't cut until you figure out the mistake. I did find on both the FS14 and the FS18 a dimension that was off 1/8" and if you just pull the nail in that spot it should fall into its proper space. Good luck with the build, and if you have any questions don't hesitate to ask here and on Bateau. It's a fun process, you'll love it. Mike


Thanks so much for your help Mike. Your explanation gives me much needed confidence to go through with the increase of the sheer. I am also on the Bateau forums, searching them daily planning and day dreaming. Thanks again for your help. Cody


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

Cody Nelson said:


> Thanks so much for your help Mike. Your explanation gives me much needed confidence to go through with the increase of the sheer. I am also on the Bateau forums, searching them daily planning and day dreaming. Thanks again for your help. Cody


Cody you're welcome. I go by Seaslug on the Bateau forum. Where are you located? If you're anywhere near Flagler Beach you can see my FS18 and the Sk14, or if you're near Vero they have my FS14 in the warehouse, and Reid is building the FS18 right there also.


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## Pole Position (Apr 3, 2016)

Cody.......one thing you may want to consider: Mike recently pointed out on a Bateau thread that the FS14ls and the FS18 each required about the same amount of material / labor. Obviously, which boat to build depends on many factors, but in many cases the 18' offers more boat w/o having to go w/ a larger engine.


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## Cody Nelson (May 12, 2017)

Pole Position said:


> Cody.......one thing you may want to consider: Mike recently pointed out on a Bateau thread that the FS14ls and the FS18 each required about the same amount of material / labor. Obviously, which boat to build depends on many factors, but in many cases the 18' offers more boat w/o having to go w/ a larger engine.


I certainly appreciate the suggestion, the 18 would be a great choice I'm sure. Unfortunately it comes down to storage space. I live in a suburban neighborhood in an older home. My garage is very small and will only fit the fs14 with trailer and engine. Thanks for your insight and suggestion though. Cody


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## Cody Nelson (May 12, 2017)

seapro17sv said:


> Cody you're welcome. I go by Seaslug on the Bateau forum. Where are you located? If you're anywhere near Flagler Beach you can see my FS18 and the Sk14, or if you're near Vero they have my FS14 in the warehouse, and Reid is building the FS18 right there also.


Located in Beaumont Tx. Quite a ways away, but if I ever find myself in Florida I would love to see these boats in person. Cody.


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## tomahawk (Mar 9, 2012)

Will a swing tongue trailer help with your space issue? You can gain a couple of feet there.


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## Cody Nelson (May 12, 2017)

tomahawk said:


> Will a swing tongue trailer help with your space issue? You can gain a couple of feet there.


Yes, I am going to have to use a swing tongue trailer to be able to store even a 14'. My garage has only 18' of useable length because it has an attached wash room. The maximum space I can use comfortably is more like 17. Thanks for your comment.
Cody


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## tomahawk (Mar 9, 2012)

Cody Nelson said:


> Yes, I am going to have to use a swing tongue trailer to be able to store even a 14'. My garage has only 18' of useable length because it has an attached wash room. The maximum space I can use comfortably is more like 17. Thanks for your comment.
> Cody


Just throwing this out there. The GF14 would fit your space requirements. Its super easy to build and customize. It floats and runs stupid shallow. Its really light and has almost double the displacement. I love my GF16. Its not as sexy as the FS boats for sure, but she gets it done and is ideal for a first time builder.

Sorry for the thread jack SP...


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## zach (May 17, 2014)

Beautiful build. Sorry if I missed it, but how long did it take?


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

zach said:


> Beautiful build. Sorry if I missed it, but how long did it take?


This was my second build, the first was the FS18. The 14 took me about 300 hours.


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## Carivera (Jan 13, 2017)

seapro17sv said:


> Hey Cody, and thanks for the compliment. A few things about the boat; I raised the sheer 1" higher than the plans, and also lowered the stringers 1/2", which gave me a little extra height for the fuel tank, and just enough room under the gunwales to hang rods without the reels laying on the floor. If I were to build another one I would raise the sheer 1 1/2" to have a tiny bit more room for both. It all worked out but it was tight. I also moved frame B forward about 8" so it would be easier to get 7' rods in the cockpit and into the rod tubes and it worked out great, and I would definitely do the same thing again. When Jacques and Jeff saw the boat they agreed that my changes improved the boat, but I haven't checked to see if they've changed the plans. Jeff actually bought the boat from me to take to boat shows, so I never did get the chance to put a motor on it. I'm sure when he puts a motor on the boat he'll post the results.....As far as the wood trim, I used Rock Maple that I glass over the top edge when I glass the deck, than round it over with a router. The face of the wood has 3 coats of epoxy, than 2 coats of varnish. Most builders would glass the outside rub rail, or put one of the rubber bumpers, but I just left it as is, and figure I can touch up dings. If it became too much of a hassle I could always use one of the rubber rub rails. I've been using the hell out of my FS18 for a year with very little damage to the wood, and I don't baby the boat, coming back from plenty of trips with the boat covered in tree branches and junk. Maple is very hard, and the epoxy is tough as well.
> View attachment 10274
> View attachment 10275
> View attachment 10276
> Feel free to ask questions here and on the Bateau forum. A few shots of my latest build. It's finished but I haven't downloaded pics yet, and I'm waiting for my motor from the shop. It's the SK14 solo skiff, but I raised the sheer 1" Mike


How do you create the channel? what type of wood are you putting under the ply? and is it just multiple runs with the router?


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

Carivera said:


> How do you create the channel? what type of wood are you putting under the ply? and is it just multiple runs with the router?


First I lay out and cut the hatch opening in the deck, than build the gutter frame to fit, than using a drill press with the proper depth set, drill out most of the wood to make it easier to push the router through. The edge of the plywood becomes the guide for a top bearing router bit, and you also have to make a plywood guide for the inside edge of the gutter, and that piece of ply becomes the stiffener on the underside of the hatch, and the piece of ply that was cut from the deck becomes the top of the hatch. It's a lot easier to see if you look at the pictures on the Bateau Gallery. They're not really hard to build, but are very time consuming. Mike


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## kipper (Apr 28, 2016)

what was "black glaze" before the aqua color?


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

kipper said:


> what was "black glaze" before the aqua color?


The black is epoxy mixed with Graphite powder. 3 coats of the Graphite mix gives the boat a rock hard surface for protection from Oysters etc.


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## kipper (Apr 28, 2016)

thanks - so steps for hull 
glass - 2 layer - 3layers
graphite 3 coats 
gel coat 
is that correct- ? i know about the Tx bay oyster bottoms - no fun and uber hard on boat bottoms


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

kipper said:


> thanks - so steps for hull
> glass - 2 layer - 3layers
> graphite 3 coats
> gel coat
> is that correct- ? i know about the Tx bay oyster bottoms - no fun and uber hard on boat bottoms


Each boat has its own lamination schedule for the 6" tape and the 50" biaxial fiberglass cloth, but generally they all get at least 1 layer inside and out of 6" biaxial in 6oz. or 12oz. on the chines and keel, and depending on the boat, a minimum of 1 layer of 50" biaxial in 6oz. or 12oz. over the entire hull inside and out. Each set of plans comes with the schedule, and Jacques designs all his boats to be over built, knowing that not all builders are experts at glassing......I used 3 coats of Graphite on my builds, but you can apply as many as you want.....There is no gelcoat, rather, fairing filler over the fiberglass cloth to smooth out everything, than Graphite, than primer and paint. Mike


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## trekker (Sep 19, 2015)

Awesome boat ! How tall is the freeboard?


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

trekker said:


> Awesome boat ! How tall is the freeboard?


Thanks, The freeboard is 15" but I altered the plans. The original plans have a much higher freeboard, than there is a low sheer plan that I lowered an additional 3" at the transom to zero at the bow. A bit of a frightening ordeal, having the entire hull glassed, than using a long flexible batten to mark and cut a new sheer line. I think it worked out ok. Mike


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