# Garage made cedar strip skiff



## topnative2 (Feb 22, 2009)

absolutely beautiful !


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## tomahawk (Mar 9, 2012)

Whoa....we need some more pics of that baby. Very nice!


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

would love to see more photos.


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## 83Maxwell (Oct 2, 2014)

With Honda 20


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## Rosco (Nov 6, 2010)

That thing is sweet! I'm doing something like that next.


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## 83Maxwell (Oct 2, 2014)




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## 83Maxwell (Oct 2, 2014)

Thanks for the comments.


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## GTSRGTSR (Nov 10, 2009)

Thats really cool. can we see more, build pics, design pics, what ever you have!!!


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## 83Maxwell (Oct 2, 2014)

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## 83Maxwell (Oct 2, 2014)




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## tomahawk (Mar 9, 2012)

That is one drop dead gorgeous skiff. Did you design it? Thanks for sharing it.


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## Shicks007 (Apr 30, 2014)

Truly beautiful!


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

So no fasteners? What glue was used? 3/4" western red cedar? Have you done this before cause that doesn't look like a first effort?


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

did you add a keel or strakes to the bottom at completion?


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## 83Maxwell (Oct 2, 2014)

There are some fasteners... a few 1/4" stainless lag bolts through the gunwales and about 30 bolts holding the rear deck and structure together. The hull is composed of home-depot bought rough sawn 2x4 or 2x6 cedar (sort thought the stack to find the clear ones) ripped down to about 3/4" by 3/8" cedar strips (lots of time on the table saw). The strips are held together with simple waterproof glue. The strength doesn't come from the cedar, but rather from the sandwich effect of fiberglass on inside and outside. I used about 5 gallons of epoxy and about 30yrds of 72" wide 6oz glass and a roll of 6" glass tape for the seams. The transom is 1.5" marine grade doug fir (two 3/4" epoxied together, the rear deck is 3/4" and is bolted to the transom and gunwales, and front deck is 1/2" and epoxied in permanently. I haven't installed a keel or strakes, but I probably will have to glass something on if she's too squirrely. Maybe some trim tabs? 
This is my first real boat, besides a 14' cedar strip canoe, so I'm sure there will be some mods to get it right. Planning to fish the White river in Arkansas (hence the oars), and the marshes in Louisiana (need a yeti and a poling platform).


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

Wow Maxwell, that is one sexy skiff!!!     Has all the pure beauty from both worlds (sleek microskiff design plus that classic cedar strip build and look).  Looks like a FS 18?? :  

Did you epoxy & glass over it? What kind of glass cloth did you use?

Btw, I think that 20hp Honda couldn't be a more perfect match for that sweety (unless you went for a completely rebuilt antique outboard tiller of some kind, like an old classic Evinrude).


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## Shalla Wata Rider (Aug 14, 2013)

I don't know what to say ...Except...WOW!!! I'm in love.........
You did a amazing job ... Craftsmanship like this makes me frown on composite construction although I know it has it's place.
That beauty will be passed on for generations...
Keep posting pictures please....


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## jboriol (Jan 2, 2010)

Amazing job...that should be in an art gallery! How long did that build take?


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

Many of us have talked about making a cedar strip poling skiff, but you actually did it. You are my hero. I can't justify owning anything that pretty given the general disregard with which I treat my current skiff, but I can appreciate your work. 

I have heard that round chines don't slide too badly in the corners, so hopefully the strakes will prove to be unecessary. I say hopefully because my next hull will be designed around my mud motor and be very similar to yours below the waterline. I really don't want stakes. Let us know how it poles.

What is the radius of the chines at your stations and what is the radius where they intersect at the bow?

Nate


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## 83Maxwell (Oct 2, 2014)

Thank you all for the compliments. It's still considered an expiremental craft and remains to be field tested. I am a little worried about the thickness of the hull so I am planning to add a few more layers of glass on the bottom when it warms up a bit.

I actually had to look up the definition of chine to know what ya'll were asking... that's how little I know about boats. For the design, I just looked at pictures of other skiffs online for inspiration and basically made a larger square back version of my 14' strip canoe. I made a model in google sketchup. I can share the sketchup file if anyone is interested in the measurements. The model is 17', but I actually built to almost 18'. 

I was considering making a hand chine, but I figured that a round chine would be stronger because the stresses are not concentrated at a single point. The floor is also round for that reason. I'm not sure how it will ride or poll. I'm just hoping it gets me from A to B... & closer to the fish.


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

I am sure it will meet the A to B requirement. Curves make strip built boats stronger. If you wanted to make flat surfaces that connect with sharp edges, you'd just use plywood. My next hull will be a combination of ply for the flat areas and strips for the curvey bits.

How much glass do you have on it already? Unless you've only used very light cloth, I'd float it to see if the floor felt floppy before you add more glass. You might find that you need ribs, not glass. An outside reference might also help. Consider getting the plans for the Rob White Sportboat for his FG schedule. He passed away, but I believe you can still contact his son to get a copy of the plans.

Nate


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## 83Maxwell (Oct 2, 2014)

cool. thanks for the info. 

I got 2 layers of 6oz on the outside, and 3 on the inside. The inside has one 30" wide layer, one 50" and one 72". so not all the inside area is 3 layers thick. When it's on the trailer and I'm standing in it, it flexes a little in the middle, but the force should be more distributed when it's in the water...hopefully. 

I had originally planned ribs with a false cedar strip floor so that it would be super rigid, but this seemed like a lot more work when I could just add more glass to get a similar effect. I would also be worry about the void below the false floor becoming water logged and difficult to repair.


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

Definitely float it first. That is a good bit of glass. The floor will probably feel stiffer in the water, but the test will be how it acts under power. If you used a 6 HP, you might never see an issue, but that 20 HP probably will make it oil-can.

I think ribs might add more stiffness with less weight than glass going forward. I was actually thinking of something like glassed-in steam bent ash ribs. They'll stiffen the sole, but not be so big as to trip over. I don't think you'd need as many ribs as you see in traditional strip boats because of the composite construction. I absolutel agree with you about the false floor. I wouldn't want one either.

I used a similar concept to glassed in ribs using 1.75"x.75" poplar strips across the sole every 2' in my hull to avoid oil canning. My sole is flat, 40" wide at the middle station and made with 12 mm okume ply with 1 layer of 6 oz inside and out. I am very happy with the resulting stiffness but acknowledge that 12 mm ply and 3/8" strips are different creatures. 

I hope I don't sound critical. I just like talking about this stuff and I am fascinated by your boat. 

Nate


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

That skiff is so nice it would be a shame to add more glass to it, which might add a frosted appearance, I know this from experience when I build my own cedar project a while back. 2 layers of 4oz was fine, but a third started to yellow the look. Maybe if you use crystal clear epoxy it would work out well?

I am not a fan of floor ribs, sorry, I just think they take away from a smooth interior. Building a floor is much easier then people make it out to be, but it also adds a bit a weight and if not properly designed then can add to stability issues.

Test it out first, and if I were you and it needed to be stiffer I'd add one more layer to the interior, since it will most likely get painted or scuffed up eventually anyway, and then add 2 or 3 strakes to the bottom. The strakes will add a lot of stiffness and help the skiff track straighter.

Thats just my $0.02. There are 100 ways to skin a cat though.


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## 83Maxwell (Oct 2, 2014)

Ya man.. not worries. I like talking about this stuff too.

I actually wasn't planning a 20hp, but a nice deal came up on craiglist for the bf20 power tilt/start. I know it is on the upper limit of what a boat like this can safely handle. I had never heard of oil canning until now. I can see how the horizonal ribs will stiffen up the structure and might be a necessity down the line. I worry most about hitting a rock on the White and getting a puncture through the hull. I should have enough buoyancy foam in the stern so that she'll stay upright if swamped.


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## 83Maxwell (Oct 2, 2014)

I was also thinking a keel or stakes on bottom. If I add layers to the very bottom only, then it wouldn't hurt the appearance. I was even thinking a layer of yellow kevlar since you won't see it below the water.. but that stuff is too expensive at more than $20/yrd. Plus even though you can't see the bottom... it would be a shame to cover the wood up. 

Waiting for the TN game warden to come give me a VIN number so I can register and get this thing on the water.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

rocks would def be a concern, cedar is light and beautiful but not hard or strong. Strakes and a keel would also help protect the bottom from beaching, etc.

but then again I'm not a boat designer.


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## oysterbreath (Jan 13, 2009)

My hat's off to you man! That's the skiff I've wanted for years but lacked the testicular fortitude to build myself! So how much does it weight? From what I have read, round chines make for a slower hull. Instead of being a planing hull it becomes a displacement hull BUT who's racing???? I have also heard that round chines make for a more efficient poling hull though.


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## Boatdesigner (Dec 9, 2009)

The round chines are less efficient at high speeds, but more efficient at lower speeds. It will pole easier and be more quiet with the round chines. As for the structure, if you don't want to add structure to the inside, I would look to adding a layer of 1208 bi-ax to the bottom, inside and out. My Crystal 16 has 1/4" strips with one layer of 1208 on both sides, but it has stringers and frames. It is also a V bottom hull, so gains a little stiffness along the keel due to the shape. Pretty boat, I think it will be very efficient and that 20 may be more than she needs to run well. Good luck with your test runs!


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## cutrunner (Jun 8, 2010)

Wow that is gorgeous....
My wife thinks im crazy but i would walk right past a $30million dollar yacht to look at your skiff


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## 83Maxwell (Oct 2, 2014)

Launched the boat yesterday. I had about an hr on the water, but I was able to get some good testing in. 

As some of you suspected, the bottom is not reinforced enough. At about 10mph or less, it starts to oil can. The worst spot is where the ice chest is mounted. The whole floor was vibrating and flexing pretty bad. I'll have to somehow reinforce with more layers of glass, or ribs with a second floor. I'm inclined to add some heavy glass to the entire bottom, and a keel (plus a few strakes) of birch maybe 3/4" by 1/2" running about 3/4 of the length of the boat. Another idea, would be to add some ribs, and then add a second floor. Having a second flood will give more support to the icechest, which is where the passenger will be sitting and placing a lot of force to the hull. Perhaps doing both glass on bottom + second floor is the safest approach. Any other ideas or recommendations out there? 

I was also having some issue with the honda when accelerating.. it seemed to idle just fine, but when I gave it gas it would sputter and it didn't seem to have full power even when warmed up. I suspect the gas sat too long in the carb and it needs a cleaning. Anyone have experience with these engines? 

Not all too upset with the first test... I was able to row around quite nicely and do a little fishing. I really like the layout of the boat, and stability is not an issue. I'm just happy the motor didn't fall off the boat when towing it out to the lake. I hit some pot holes but the transom seemed to be reinforced enough.


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## 83Maxwell (Oct 2, 2014)




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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

Heck yeah! 
[smiley=1-thumbsup1.gif]
These things are a process, usually never-ending. If you had splashed it without any comment regarding what you now have to fix, we'd know you were lying.

Nate


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## pursuit25 (Mar 6, 2009)

The boat looks great, almost a shame to fish out of it.


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## BadKnotGuy (Jul 8, 2012)

I think you might be happier with ribs and a floor structure to add stiffness. Compared to the amount of glass it would require to stiffen it up enough to eliminate oil canning you will probably be a little lighter too. It would probably require a heavy bi-axial/mat glass to really get it flex free. Using the heavy stuff will also negate that awesome clear strip look since the heavy glass would be opaque at best. Ribs and maybe a plank floor will look sweet with the way you've finished the boat as well.


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## tomahawk (Mar 9, 2012)

The Mertens designed boats use runners glued to the bottom for stiffness Like my GF. I used 1x2's. I also glassed over mine with biax tape.
They aid some in tracking as well. They are also on the bottom so you won't deface that beautiful interior  
Just a thought. Good luck


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## 83Maxwell (Oct 2, 2014)

Thanks! 
I like the idea of the runners like you have there in the pics. I can get nice 14' long birch planks and rip them down for a keel or runners. I made the gunwales out of the birch and it was a pain in the ass to bend. The birch is crazy stiff. 

I also ordered 3 more 40" wide layers of 6oz plain weave.. and 3 gallons of epoxy. My plan is to re-glass the bottom and add some runners or keel... and then test again. If the bottom is still oil canning, then come the ribs or second floor.


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## 83Maxwell (Oct 2, 2014)

mahogany polling platform.


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

That looks classy. Just don't take up fly fishing from the platform

Nate


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## tomahawk (Mar 9, 2012)

Very nice!


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

~thinks~    hummm.....  I'm not sure that poling platform is working for your beautiful sleek cedar strip hull.  It looks rather large, square and clunky.  :-?

Maybe if you went for a short, small footprint removable platform in front of the outboard much like a casting platform, with rounded corners and edges (maybe cedar dow legs with rubber feet and center anchor or legs made special off of a lathe) with a cedar strip top (and clear epoxied over), then it would match the boat better, be less in the way, removable and have that sexier look to match the boat.   Something like what *Tomahawk* has on his wooden boat except with rounded corners and edges to match the rounded (non-squared look) of your boat and an epoxied clear cedar strip finish on top!    Just sayin....


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## 83Maxwell (Oct 2, 2014)

maybe you're right. but I'm waithing to see how it looks on the water. It does look bigger in the pictures ;D

I'm happy as long as it doesn't break when I stand on it and it's stable enough. I could get a metal one made, but it would be about $400.. this was $50 in craigslist mahogany.


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## jaythefisherman (Feb 13, 2013)

this boat is a work of art,,,,,best i have seen on microskiff!


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## jaythefisherman (Feb 13, 2013)

> Wow that is gorgeous....
> My wife thinks im crazy but i would walk right past a $30million dollar yacht to look at your skiff


 i couldnt agree with you more,,,,,this boat would get my attention far quicker than 30m yacht


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

Your skiff is stunning but the platform looks like a picnic table in comparison. Just sayin.


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## jaythefisherman (Feb 13, 2013)

platform is cool, but just not for this boat, nice carbon fiber would work and maybe teak planking on top


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## Snookdaddy (Jan 5, 2008)

Consider a 1-1/2" rounding of the corners and keep what you have...

I like the mahogany platform. Don't listen to the naysayers..

Killer build that 99% of this forum could not replicate.. Make it your own..


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## tomahawk (Mar 9, 2012)

I agree with SD. Round off the sharp edges, clear it and go fishing


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## Rediculous (May 5, 2012)

Although, I like the platform. I think you could get a bit more creative with the design of the deck. Adding some curvature and radius to the deck, would do wonders. Or you could leave it exactly like it is, if you're content with it... which, is all that really matters. You've built a beautiful skiff! Definitely one of the coolest, I've seen on this site!


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## anytide (Jul 30, 2009)

> Although, I like the platform. I think you could get a bit more creative with the design of the deck. Adding some curvature and radius to the deck, would do wonders. Or you could leave it exactly like it is, if you're content with it... which, is all that really matters. You've built a beautiful skiff! Definitely one of the coolest, I've seen on this site!


this ^^^

dam nice looking boat tho !


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## sfsurfr (Mar 16, 2009)

This thing looks great! What a cool little poling skiff!


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## BayStYat (Sep 12, 2012)

Love the platform. Love the skiff. Would love to fish it.


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## Gators52__20 (Dec 31, 2012)

Everyone is a critic on here, but that's sick work on that boat man. Pat yourself on the back and go catch some fish...


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## oysterbreath (Jan 13, 2009)

> Everyone is a critic on here, but that's sick work on that boat man.  Pat yourself on the back and go catch some fish...


Sometimes hearing a critic is the best form of flattery. It's almost like hearing them say, I can't do that...but if I could, I would do it a little differently!" I don't think it's a negative or insulting thing for someone to offer their opinion. Especially when it follows a complement. A very WELL earned compliment I must add! 

Great work just add some dang fish slime! <<<< That's me being a critic!


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## 83Maxwell (Oct 2, 2014)

Here's another view. Also, built a pole. It's about 14' octagon shaped and hollow. I ripped a bunch of leftover 1/4" cedar strips with 22.5deg cuts on each side, painted with epoxy and cinched it all together with pieces of backing tied with slip knots. I attached one end to a drill and turned it while the epoxy set up. I figured this would make it come out straight with an even coat of epoxy all around. Wrapped it up with 6" wide 6oz fiberglass and applied several coats of epoxy. seems strong enough... we'll see.


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## flanbo (Mar 10, 2015)

Wow stunning. You got this carpenters jaw dropping. Can or do you have a material list? Any preferred mill yard? Not one mill yard in Charlotte county. 
Just cleaned my garage for a new mower but maybe it will fit my shed..


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## 83Maxwell (Oct 2, 2014)

rough materials list as best as I can remember:

strongback:
2 sheets of 3/4" particle board
2 - 14'  2x6s
8 - 8' 2x4s
box of 4" screws
box of 2" screws

rough sawn cedar from Home Depot:
10 - 8' 2x4s
2 - 14' 2x6
1 - 12' 2x6
(try to find clear grain pieces in the stack. A few knots are ok since you can cut them out and splice the pieces together with scarf joints)

plywood for decks and cross section pieces
1 - 1/2" marine grade plywood 4'x8'
1 - 3/4" marine grade plywood 4'x8'

Raka fabric & epoxy 
2 - 18' 72" 6oz
2 - 18' 50" 6oz
2 - 18' 30" 6oz
1 roll of 6" 6oz fiberglass tape
6 gallons of raka 900 epoxy with 350 hardener
bunch of cups and mixing sticks, squeegies, and rollers

gunwales:
2 birch planks about 14'x5"x3/4"

keel /strakes (planned but haven't installed yet)
1 birch plank about 14'x5"x3/4" 

deck hardware:
2 - 6' aluminum L brackets from home depot. not sure of dimensions but maybe 2" wide and 3/16" or 1/8" thick.
about 14 - 3 1/2" x 1/4" SS lag bolts (these secure the alumunim L piece to the gunwales and transom)
about 20 - 1&1/2" x 1/4" SS bolts with SS compression washers and nuts (these hold the deck to the aluminum brackets mounted to transom and gunwales)

accessories:
Stainless Steel Elliptical LED Navigation from KE Performance
Perko Oarlocks from ebay, spruce oars from ebay, Oar-Deal from fisseries supply
drain plug from ebay
marine battery from amazon.com
bilge pump, 20' led strip interior lights from ebay,
4 switch control board from ebay, waterproof with fuses built in 
12V cigarette outlet
2 rolls of wire I think were 16 gauge.
battery box
anchor and rope, 20' 1/4" gas line and 2 brass splice pieces

tools etc:
table saw, 12" miter saw (crucial for scarf joints), router table, orbital sander, jig saw, drill, precise & fine tooth handsaw for trimming cedar strips, as many clamps as you can get, about 20 car tie-down staps from harbor freight),

about 30+ each of 100grit, 80grit sanding pads
a few boxes of 1/2" staples 
1 gallon of waterproof wood glue

dust masks, two full body wateerproof painters suits, eye protection, hearing protection. 

big money items:
craigslight Honda 20hp with power tilt and power start $2800
custom aluminum trailer from Cherokee manufacturing in northern MS. This trailer is a piece of art in itself. $1600


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## cutrunner (Jun 8, 2010)

.[/quote]



Great work just add some dang fish slime! <<<< That's the pot calling the kettle black 
[/quote]
Fixed it for ya oyster


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## hookemdano (Feb 9, 2007)

I liked the platform in the first set of pics. I like it even more after the second set and can't imagine anything else looking more appropriate on that skiff. Amazing skiff and skills.


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## tomahawk (Mar 9, 2012)

Nice work. Just for future reference, you can get fiberglass sleeve for the pole. Easier to work with than tape. http://www.sollercomposites.com/composites/carbon fiber sleeves.html#fiberglass

As far as negative comments go, If you can't take the "constructive" ones as well as the good ones, you wouldn't be putting your stuff up on the net for the world to see. Right?


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## fishicaltherapist (Mar 9, 2013)

My fellow fishing friend, that SKIFF is so beautiful, MONA LISA has tears in her eyes. INCREDIBLE and PASSIONATE workmanship. TIME for SLIME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thanks for sharing. [smiley=y-10.gif]


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## 83Maxwell (Oct 2, 2014)

thanks for the compliments and constructive criticism.


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## 83Maxwell (Oct 2, 2014)

> Nice work. Just for future reference, you can get fiberglass sleeve for the pole. Easier to work with than tape. http://www.sollercomposites.com/composites/carbon fiber sleeves.html#fiberglass
> 
> As far as negative comments go, If you can't take the "constructive" ones as well as the good ones, you wouldn't be putting your stuff up on the net for the world to see. Right?



damn that sleeve would have made my life a lot easier... didn't know about these. thanks


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## Finn Maccumhail (Apr 9, 2010)

That is beautiful work man.

But as somebody who's never done any fiberglass work, how do you get the beauty of the wood to come through the glass?

Do you just build the boat with the wood as you normally would and glass it in but not paint it or what?


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

http://epoxyworks.com/


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## sfsurfr (Mar 16, 2009)

Hey man thanks a lot for emailing me the google sketch stuff. I appreciate it. Enjoy the boat!


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## 83Maxwell (Oct 2, 2014)

the skiff in motion. Feels faster than it looks. It turns like a longboard. 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KgJukx73hoo

Added 3 layers of 6oz to bottom and two strakes... a little deflection when I'm at top speed and hit waves, but not much at all at 80% throttle. I also took it in white caps and seemed to handle it ok at slow sleeds. I'll definitely look for lighter wind days.


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## fishicaltherapist (Mar 9, 2013)

WATCH OUT FISH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! [smiley=1-thumbsup1.gif]


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

> the skiff in motion. Feels faster than it looks. It turns like a longboard.


Looks awesome. It looks plenty fast for a skiff! I still don't know if my skiff would hold up to that type of speed. How does it pole? ...or have you only used the oars so far? Is the floor flex controlled to your satisfaction? Did you notice the extra weight? How does it feel when you are standing on the platform? Let us know how it fishes.

Nate


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## 83Maxwell (Oct 2, 2014)

poles fine although I have no idea what I'm doing. It gets blown around by the wind pretty easily but very stable. I'm ok with the flex, but we'll see how it performs long term. Didn't really notice the extra weight... maybe 1gallon of epoxy and 3 layers of 6oz. Can't be more than 20lbs evenly distributed.


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

> poles fine although I have no idea what I'm doing. It gets blown around by the wind pretty easily but very stable. I'm ok with the flex, but we'll see how it performs long term. Didn't really notice the extra weight... maybe 1gallon of epoxy and 3 layers of 6oz. Can't be more than 20lbs evenly distributed.


Don't worry. The poling will come. It is a light skiff, so the bow will get blown around without weight forward. Accept that no matter how good you get, this will be a problem. It will pole the best with another fisherman on the bow.

Nate


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