# Waterlogged capless Gladesmen restoration



## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

This may look familiar to a few microskiffers, as I know I'm at least the 5th owner.

After searching for my minimalist dream skiff for awhile, I finally found it. I got it knowing it needed a new floor, gelcoat repair, and new paint/non skid. So after a couple estimates, I quickly realized it would be the worst financial decision to pay a pro. After the advice from Kevin at East Cape and some friends, I'll be attempting the restore myself (I've never done anything like this). The plan as of now is to restore it back to original. The layout actually worked really well for my style of fishing (and quick trips to the beach for the wife). So here we go...

1- Remove everything. *DONE!*

2- 1" Foam/dinycel core floor with epoxy and 1708?. (I have no idea what kind of foam was used originally) *Done*

3- Cored front bench with a guttered hatch (could be more difficult than I imagine) instead of the cheap plastic hatch covers. *Done*

4- Cored rear deck with guttered hatch, move the electrical inside, and add a freaking* CUPHOLDER- Using the Yeti cupholder for now*

5- Glass in one PVC chase tube along both sides of the floor, one for fuel line to the bow, and the other for the electrical. *Done*

6- Repair holes on gunnels from previous rigging tube. *Done*

7- New rod holders on gunnels. *Done*

8- New paint and non skid. *Done*

9- Learn how to repair gelcoat! *Done*

10- Replace rub rail- *Reusing the old one for now*

11- Complete re-wire. *Done*

Contemplating adding shark eye nav lights, but not against getting battery operated or going completely without as I won't be using this skiff much after sunset.

Still up in the air about what core and glass to use for the floor, bulkheads, deck, etc. and Ill have to order it all online as we don't have any supply shops locally.

Opinions, thoughts, criticism, help all welcomed


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## Backcountry 16 (Mar 15, 2016)

Pm @Whiskey Angler he restored his not to this extent but he can definitely help I'm sure. Your gonna love it I've had one about 8 months and it's a cool little boat. I'll be watching this restoration.


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

Love these skiffs -- hopefully I can get over there some to lend a hand; can't wait to see this unfold!


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## hunterbrown (Feb 17, 2014)

If you decide not to make your own hatches I’m selling this one. Also boatoutfitters.com can make you any size you need but they get pricy. 
https://www.microskiff.com/threads/aluminum-framed-console-access-door-boat-outfitters.70096/

For rod holders if you don’t want to make your own with core and glass, anytide on this forum could probably make you a set out of starboard. 
https://www.shallowwatersolutions.com/

For gelcoat, search boatworks today online, he has some really good videos on color matching. 

Loved my gladesmen, they’re neat little boats. If it was mine I’d extend that front deck back a few feet and do a solid bulkhead with a hatch or an open bulkhead. Looks like really clean work so far.


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## Backcountry 16 (Mar 15, 2016)

Agree with Hunter extend that front deck some more. Looking good.


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## Battfisher (Jan 18, 2016)

@Boatbrains can make you a drop in hatch cheaper than anywhere else, and @anytide (shallowwatersolutions.com) can make rod holders, tiller extension for the outboard, stick it pin holders, etc. You can also patch up your hull and then prime and paint with a 2 part urethane - I did that on my Gheenoe rebuild and it turned out great.


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## LowHydrogen (Dec 31, 2015)

Good looking project, I'll be watching this one!!

Any boat you can launch with a golf cart is a cool boat (what this site was really for)!


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

What resin was the original built with? I wouldn't mix resin types?


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

I always loved the look of these little gladesman!


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

@Backcountry 16 I believe Whiskey's build is the inspiration for all of us who dive into a Gman resto. I've read his thread multiple times and love how it turned out. I like low casting platform for a poling platform in the rear as well. I do like the thought of extending the front deck, but the current layout gives me full access to keep a battery, 6 gallon tank, 2 life jackets, throw cushion, anchor, and a small dry box within easy reach. And for beach days, holds the beach chairs up front and out of the way. Extending the front is not out of the question though. Can you give me the length of our front deck? Just in case my bench hatch doesn't work out.

@bryson If I had known about the Conchfish before I bought this, it would have been the way to go. I'm sure I have as much time in demo and sanding as I would building a strongback, setting up stations, and laying foam. And I'll definitely have to stop by and see yours and get some pointers!

@hunterbrown Thank you but your hatch is actually too big for the bench dimensions, and Andy's videos seem to be very well explained for someone with no clue, like me.

@Battfisher Boatbrains, being the guy he is, has already reached out and given me a list of materials and direction to get started.


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

LowHydrogen said:


> Good looking project, I'll be watching this one!!
> 
> Any boat you can launch with a golf cart is a cool boat (what this site was really for)!


The golf cart was definitely a major factor for buying this skiff, our neighborhood has a tidal ramp to launch so I don't have to travel far, unlike the bay boat.



Sublime said:


> What resin was the original built with? I wouldn't mix resin types?


I don't know, but it is my understanding that epoxy would bond just fine. I could be completely wrong as you can't believe everything you read on the internet.!


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Here is what @Chris Morejohn said in another post.


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## Backcountry 16 (Mar 15, 2016)

Front deck is 72 inches total. Good idea on chair storage for the sandbar never thought of that. 


Copahee Hound said:


> @Backcountry 16 I believe Whiskey's build is the inspiration for all of us who dive into a Gman resto. I've read his thread multiple times and love how it turned out. I like low casting platform for a poling platform in the rear as well. I do like the thought of extending the front deck, but the current layout gives me full access to keep a battery, 6 gallon tank, 2 life jackets, throw cushion, anchor, and a small dry box within easy reach. And for beach days, holds the beach chairs up front and out of the way. Extending the front is not out of the question though. Can you give me the length of our front deck? Just in case my bench hatch doesn't work out.
> 
> @bryson If I had known about the Conchfish before I bought this, it would have been the way to go. I'm sure I have as much time in demo and sanding as I would building a strongback, setting up stations, and laying foam. And I'll definitely have to stop by and see yours and get some pointers!
> 
> ...


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

My understanding is that epoxy works well to repair poly, but not the other way around. Epoxy adheres much better than poly, so it makes it a good repair material. I think it would be a good choice for this project, but you would want to use epoxy from here on out if you chose to use it now.

I'm sure there are others with more experience that can tell me if I'm right or wrong in that.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Sublime said:


> Here is what @Chris Morejohn said in another post.
> 
> View attachment 93328


This is his comment on building a fuel tank.


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Yes, the discussion was a fuel tank but he also says secondary bond which is bonding anything on to something existing. Or at least that is the way I read it.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Wait a minute...

Foam does not absorb water. The experts on the web have maintained this stance for years.

That can't be foam  looks like a sponge!


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## Chris Morejohn (May 12, 2014)

Sublime said:


> Yes, the discussion was a fuel tank but he also says secondary bond which is bonding anything on to something existing. Or at least that is the way I read it.


You read this correctly. What ever I write on this site and my blogs is just my personal opinion.
My experience with epoxy as a secondary bond to polyester has been very mixed. West systems brand is a great product... but they like to sell their products. So they like to sell home builder repair guys a bunch of goods that cost you a fortune, when in reality it’s like they are cutting the drugs so thin and charging so much.
I buy glass bubbles in 50 lb bags. Costs $250.00. If repackaged like West or in the local store it’s worth around $1200.00.
The key thing with epoxy against polyester is the surface preparation. You have to grind back to raw glass, which means no Gelcoat at all. If the epoxy goes over old Gelcoat or paint or dirt eventually water will get under that edge and it can fail. Same as polyester resin. So it’s not a miracle glue like they want you to think.
When recoating new polyester work with epoxy you have to let it gas off or you will see blisters later. 
The next thing to consider is polyester builds tend to be stiffer than epoxy thin coatings. So if the hull has some flex it could flex the new epoxy layers edge up.
I like to keep my products together when repairing.
If patching big holes using epoxy or polyester make sure you glass from both sides so it makes the patch like a rivet. Otherwise it might pop off.
In building one-off hulls I would say build the hulls outer skin using epoxy resin and then all the rest of the build using polyester to save $ and time.
In this way your only glue joint it’s just the sheer. Use epoxy glue- putty there.
I have 3 skiffs that I built that were cut in half by boats running over them and I rebuilt using the same polyester resin as built. They are still going strong. 
Either resin it’s all about the surface preparation and making sure the new build will not flex enough to pop the new repair off.


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## East Cape (Sep 3, 2015)

Sublime said:


> What resin was the original built with? I wouldn't mix resin types?



"Vinylester" on the infusion and blended on the skin coat. Good to see you bring her back to life and its a shame to see owners before you treat this G'Man this way. This is a 07' that I built in late 06'. There were only 4 of us back then and I did the lamination on this and Marc did the assembly/rigging. We had two small shops spread across town. This was a fun period back then as we fished 2-4 days a week and did 3-4 skiffs a month. We are here if you need anything too?
Kevin


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## culligan (May 5, 2016)

The floor on these layouts just didn’t last way too thin would always flex behind the bench seat leading to a compromise. Everything else was great I would buy another but with the cap. Great to see you bringing her back to it’s full potential plus some much needed extra. Can’t wait to see it finished good luck buddy!


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

Sorry to leave everyone (who's interested) hangin. Just collecting materials, surprising that Charleston only has one supply house in town despite the many builders/production facilities we have. AND, they didn't even have enough to get me started on the floor. So far, I've gathered some 1808 (may be overkill), 5 gallons of resin and 2.5 of hardener (probably going to need more), some tools and q cells. Still need core (thinking of ordering Carbon Core's 1" and .75" PVC), fiberglass tape, and possibly some csm for little fixes. If I'm missing something, it's because I'm ignorant, so let me know please.

Thank y'all for all the input. The internet makes all this look easy, just glass and go. I believe I've done a good job of prepping all the surfaces for new glass by sanding it all down with 60 grit discs to the bare hole, I mean hull (even sanded a part to thin air) and wiping with acetone multiple times.

@Chris Morejohn I enjoy reading your blog and feel there is a lot of viable info for this project on there.

@East Cape Again, y'all have been awesome, even tough you haven't received a dime from me (yet)

@culligan Sorry I missed your call, was dealing with some family problems. As you see, the rebuild is on the way. You're right. It did seem to flex behind the front bench during the little time we had to use it before the destruction. My thinking is using the 1808, and tabbing the new gunnel rod holders all the way down to the floor will give it more rigidity. It may add more weight and draft by over building, but this thing already floats in a puddle (as you know) so I won't worry about another half inch of draft. 

And to the man behind the scenes @Boatbrains I just wanted to publicly thank you as well


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

I'd be tempted to build a bench seat across the middle. Would stiffen it up like crazy and if you got creative you could make it with a lid for storage or even a cooler if you insulated it.


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## BrownDog (Jun 22, 2019)

Where did you find someone that carried supplies around charleston? Planning ahead for something I have and would especially like to know where you find core material or possibly split shipping with you on some.


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

Sublime said:


> I'd be tempted to build a bench seat across the middle. Would stiffen it up like crazy and if you got creative you could make it with a lid for storage or even a cooler if you insulated it.


You're 100% correct! It would definitely be the best way to add rigidity and stabilization, BUT, I once owned a 13' Gheenoe. The worst thing about a 13' Gheenoe is stepping over the middle bench to get to the bow. Secondly, I would lose the rod holders on the gunnels which I need.

@BrownDog Our only supplier (that I have found) is Leaptech, formerly Illstreet Composites LLC, off Folly Rd on James Island. You have to order online, then decide if you want them to ship your supplies or pick them up the next day to save the shipping costs. I need to save money where I can to keep the boss off my arse. I was only able to order the 1808 glass, fin rollers, squeegees, resin(which had really good reviews), pumps, brushes, q cells, and mixing cups. Unfortunately, they are not a one stop shop and don't have but a couple options as far core. I'm going to order my core through www.carboncore.com (.75" PVC for my decks and 1" PVC for the floors, and they seem reasonably priced). If you want to split some shipping costs that would be awesome. I'm in Mt. P and my parents are on Johns Island so I can meet you to help out if needed. I still need the other incidentals... Leaptech may have had some more materials that I need but the website isn't the greatest and though my sales rep was great, he/she was not very knowledgeable due to lack of experience like me.


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## Backcountry 16 (Mar 15, 2016)

Any updates?


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

Backcountry 16 said:


> Any updates?


Nothing worth posting about or that you would even be able to notice with my old iPhone. Mostly finding more areas that needed attention, filling holes and gouges(and even some I accidentally made during demo). All the usual suspects have slowed down production; work, daylight, crappy weather, not ordering enough silica, fishing the other boat for sanity. Hoping to have the floor in place this weekend so I can get some momentum and visual progress.


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## Backcountry 16 (Mar 15, 2016)

Copahee Hound said:


> Nothing worth posting about or that you would even be able to notice with my old iPhone. Mostly finding more areas that needed attention, filling holes and gouges(and even some I accidentally made during demo). All the usual suspects have slowed down production; work, daylight, crappy weather, not ordering enough silica, fishing the other boat for sanity. Hoping to have the floor in place this weekend so I can get some momentum and visual progress.


Sometimes having 2 boats is a bad thing.


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

Backcountry 16 said:


> Sometimes having 2 boats is a bad thing.


Only when the annual SC pleasure tax bill arrives in the mail

Got the foam cut out and epoxied in. It definitely takes nerves of steel when you start cutting into a $100 sheet of foam if you're as frugal as me. One thing I did learn as a newbie to restoration, it takes A LOT of silica to make thickened epoxy. Yet again, I feel I didn't order enough.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Copahee Hound said:


> Only when the annual SC pleasure tax bill arrives in the mail
> 
> Got the foam cut out and epoxied in. It definitely takes nerves of steel when you start cutting into a $100 sheet of foam if you're as frugal as me. One thing I did learn as a newbie to restoration, it takes A LOT of silica to make thickened epoxy. Yet again, I feel I didn't order enough.
> 
> ...



yes very scary, like cutting 300 dollar sheets of coosa.


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

Looking good! How did laying the cloth go? That LeapTech resin is no fun to work with in the cold.


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## BrownDog (Jun 22, 2019)

bryson said:


> Looking good! How did laying the cloth go? That LeapTech resin is no fun to work with in the cold.


I switched from the medium to fast cure and let it sit in the cup awhile before using and it still takes 2 days or so to set up to where it can be sanded sitting in an unheated garage.


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

bryson said:


> Looking good! How did laying the cloth go? That LeapTech resin is no fun to work with in the cold.


You’re not kidding about that! I don’t know why they even sell pumps. Easy up sell i guess. The resin is so thick that the pumps can’t move it through. I did grab some different sized measuring cups from Lowe’s and pouring all my batches but it takes FOREVER to pour. I have been bringing the resin inside while it’s been cold but I really don’t think it helps at all.

The one positive with our current weather trends is that I haven’t had to rush through any steps thinking that the epoxy would start kicking, so there’s that


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

Copahee Hound said:


> You’re not kidding about that! I don’t know why they even sell pumps. Easy up sell i guess. The resin is so thick that the pumps can’t move it through. I did grab some different sized measuring cups from Lowe’s and pouring all my batches but it takes FOREVER to pour. I have been bringing the resin inside while it’s been cold but I really don’t think it helps at all.
> 
> The one positive with our current weather trends is that I haven’t had to rush through any steps thinking that the epoxy would start kicking, so there’s that


Yeah the only way I could use the pumps is with a work light on the resin, and that was in 70 deg ambient temps. Pouring the resin from a 5 gal bucket is miserable too, but keeping it inside until ready to use helps. 

Fortunately it's reasonable once you mix with the hardener and seems to wet the cloth out fine, although I noticed it was more difficult to wet out the cloth from US Composites than the cloth they sell. Both 10oz, so I thought that was strange. Maybe the US Composites cloth has a tighter weave?


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

The foam is officially epoxied in, faired, sanded and ready for glass. 

Side note to other beginners, don’t put qcells and silica in matching containers sitting next to each other because you might grab the wrong one when the clock starts ticking. And if you can find someone with a 16 year old back, get them to do all the sanding.


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

Got the rigging tubes put in. I racked my brain for a couple weeks trying to figure out an alternative to this method, but not having a false floor really limits what I was able to do. I'm not overall impressed or happy with this setup, but it is functional and keeps the wiring inside. Just going to push on and get the benches made so I'm one step closer to fishing in this again.

As usual with me, I have another oops. I must have thrown away the perfectly good piece of coosa that the grab bar was mounted to. I have been trying to source a 5" square somewhere but not having much luck. If anyone knows where to get one, let me know.


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Nothing wrong with that wiring chase. If I go cap-less on my conchfish build, I'll have to get inventive as well. 

I forget. Are you doing a bench from side to side? That will stiffen that skiff up like crazy.


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

Sublime said:


> Nothing wrong with wiring chase. If I go cap-less on my conchfish build, I'll have to get inventive as well.
> 
> I forget are you doing a bench from side to side? That will stiffen that skiff up like crazy.


Nothing wrong with the chases, just not aesthetically pleasing as hidden under a cap or floor but life will go on. I do really like that it doesn't have a cap because it opens up the layout more, but it does lose some much needed rigidity on a hull this small.

Yes, both benches will span the width of the hull and I'm also going to make the horizontal rod holders tab into the floor as well to hopefully get even more rigidity than before.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

What thickness coosa are you looking for?


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

PG350 said:


> What thickness coosa are you looking for?


Ideally 1" but if I get some that's thinner, I could add a couple layers of glass. 

@Sublime Here is a quick rendering of a concept I'm toying around with to make the tubes prettier. I'm not sure if the weight gain and effort are worth it for my case, but it might help someone else who hasn't thought about it.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

I have some 3/4 scraps that should work. PM me you phone number and I can call you.


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

Thank you, but Moose is sending me a piece that should work and thanks for popsicle trick


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Copahee Hound said:


> Ideally 1" but if I get some that's thinner, I could add a couple layers of glass.
> 
> @Sublime Here is a quick rendering of a concept I'm toying around with to make the tubes prettier. I'm not sure if the weight gain and effort are worth it for my case, but it might help someone else who hasn't thought about it.
> 
> View attachment 116184


Triangular longitudinal foam filler glassed onto rigging tube n into side will stiffen sides!


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

Happy Valentine's Day all! My wife told me I couldn't be with the mistress tonight but here's an update of progress and lessons I've learned. 









Thanks to @PG350 panga mods, using popsicle sticks is the way to go when it comes to making templates for bulkheads, for those of you clueless like me.









Not all popsicle sticks are created equally! From left to right... That's a tongue depressor purchased from my local fiberglass supplier and is very stiff for mixing small batches of resin. The middle is a craft stick from Wally world, otherwise known as hell, and is perfect for making bulkhead templates. And lastly, the right is individually wrapped, medical grade tongue depressors from Amazon. DON'T buy these for templates unless you want to spend an hour of your life unwrapping them!









I could have borrowed a router from a friend for sure, but I get really excited walking into the hardware store knowing I'm coming out with a new tool. The jig saw did a decent job, but not up to my standards of finish. Hopefully this weekend I'll have the foam cut to fit. Now I just have to break it to the boss that I'm even more over budget... Cheers y'all!


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Hell yeah, Popsickle stick Army!!!! It really is fast with the hot glue gun.


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## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

Re-read this tale from start to finish and couldn't find any explanation about using popsicle sticks to create a template - could someone enlighten me (or just point me to the thread that explains it)? Thanks in advance to one and all.

Looks like a great restoration and I'll be following it closely...


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## Zika (Aug 6, 2015)

The panga restore thread covers it, Capt. Bob. Page 7, post #128.

https://www.microskiff.com/threads/17-5-ft-panga-restore.59228/page-7


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

Sorry Capt @lemaymiami I didn't realize y'all were actually listening to me ramble. The popsicle trick I'm using to create my bulkhead templates is by cutting a piece of plywood smaller than the actual width of the hull and hot gluing the sticks in place to create a rough edge to cut. I've been using the wide sharpie markers to give me extra fat to trim off.
















After I traced them on the plywood, I used the sharpie to connect all the high spots and rough cut it out with a jig saw on another piece of ply. Ply being $15/sheet (cheap) and the foam is roughly $100/sheet (expensive to me). I then took a little off the edges at a time with the router until the plywood forms fit loosely into place so I could transfer it to the foam. (Andy at Boatworks Today on youtube is where I got this inspiration... I believe in the videos where he's talking about cutting coosa)








The picture above is how Andy did it. You just need the correct router bit with a bearing stopper on the bottom. 

On a side note, if you don't have a work bench, you can use the 8'x4' pallet that Carbon Core uses to ship the foam to become a work bench of your desired height using some scrap wood and screws to brace it. 









Lastly, I actually set a realistic goal for a busy weekend and got all the foam cut to shape. The tops of each piece needs to be cut roughly 1" to compensate for the tops of the benches and drain holes at the bottoms. Then on to fixing my mistake of forgetting about the grab bar coosa insert and figuring out how to make guttered hatches/molds. Ant and all advice greatly appreciated!


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## Tigweld (Oct 26, 2017)

Looks good


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## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

Thanks partner - that's a great explanation... and it's obviously relatively quick and accurate. I particularly like the idea of using an inexpensive plywood template that you can verify is right then using a router to cut your foam... 

Love watching your work progress and wish this kind of info was commonly available all those years ago when we built or modified our first boats (for me that started in 1976 with a riveted aluminum StarCraft that we built a bonefish interior for..).


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

Coronavirus update... Bulkheads are glassed on both sides but I will have to shave off the tops about .75" when I can figure out what I'm doing for the decks. 

Thanks to @Capt. Moose for donating a piece of coosa, the grab bar can be mounted properly. 

Now it's time to figure out how to make guttered hatches/decks and for some reason I can't figure out how to go about it. I've destroyed a lot of plywood playing around with a design and watched a lot of youtube, but nothing is resonating. Any of you guys have some input to move me along?


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## Guest (Mar 17, 2020)

Copahee Hound said:


> Coronavirus update... Bulkheads are glassed on both sides but I will have to shave off the tops about .75" when I can figure out what I'm doing for the decks.
> I’ll try to draw you up something tomorrow It is super easy!
> 
> Thanks to @Capt. Moose for donating a piece of coosa, the grab bar can be mounted properly.
> ...


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## DBStoots (Jul 9, 2011)

Amazing. I have so much admiration for those of you who are skilled enough to pull this off. Can't wait to see it completed.


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

DBStoots said:


> Amazing. I have so much admiration for those of you who are skilled enough to pull this off. Can't wait to see it completed.


Ha I don't deserve much praise as this rebuild is out of necessity. I wanted to pay someone to complete the work after demolition, but the quotes I received were way more than it's worth. If I could have been anywhere close to breaking even once completed, I would NOT be putting myself through this misery. I do commend all the other builders who are willingly going through the trouble to create what they want.


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

Had some time to think about the gutters... So y'all let me know if my concept won't work. I would think it is how guys building plywood boats would do it. The plan is to make the top of the deck out of 1" foam, have a lip underneath using .75", and then .5" rounding the inside corners to form a gutter. This will obviously use more foam, but I think it would be easier than building molds, destroying molds, and repeating.


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## Guest (Mar 20, 2020)

Copahee Hound said:


> Had some time to think about the gutters... So y'all let me know if my concept won't work. I would think it is how guys building plywood boats would do it. The plan is to make the top of the deck out of 1" foam, have a lip underneath using .75", and then .5" rounding the inside corners to form a gutter. This will obviously use more foam, but I think it would be easier than building molds, destroying molds, and repeating.
> View attachment 123970


That will work just fine! Put a nice 3/8 radius on the corners and the glass should flow real nice over them! Sorry I didn’t get back with ya!


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## Guest (Mar 20, 2020)

You may want to make the gutter deeper though. Mine are 1.5” deep and very dry!


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

Thanks! Will definitely radius the pieces. Not too sure if I have enough foam allotted to double up the gutter but we’ll find out together.


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## East Cape (Sep 3, 2015)

Boatbrains said:


> You may want to make the gutter deeper though. Mine are 1.5” deep and very dry!


If I knew then, with what I know now, they too would have been much wider and deeper
GMan started in 1999 and drew up design in late 2001. The GLIDE and the coming SKANU is our fix to the Gladesmen.


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## Guest (Mar 20, 2020)

East Cape said:


> If I knew then, with what I know now, they too would have been much wider and deeper
> GMan started in 1999 and drew up design in late 2001. The GLIDE and the coming SKANU is our fix to the Gladesmen.


Awesome! At least you’ve learned my friend, some never do! Or they just don’t care and are too cheap to re tool to make a better product! At least you are being innovative in your work, many are not! Can’t wait to see the Skanu in action though!


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

I’ll see if I can make it happen guys. I do like the stability and space in the Glide, but Kevin, there is no fix (replacement) for the Gman! As much as I dislike this building process, it’s a great design that’s worth a second chance. Stable/skinny as a paddleboard, as fast as a skiff. You did find a niche that this fills.


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## Open Fly -The Later Years (Feb 1, 2020)

Keep up the good work ! It's gonna be great !
Can't wait to see it finished.
Capt Dave Jackson


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

So my gutter theory did work, just used more foam to create than maybe necessary. I need to clean it up a bit and router all the hard edges, but do I bond them with neat or thickened epoxy?










Also stumbled upon this handy cyclone thingamajig to save on $12 shop vac filters. Wish I knew about years ago.


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

The cyclone is awesome -- I have one hooked up to my shop vac currently as well.

As for gluing the foam, I'd do a quick coat of neat resin first, then glue it up with putty once it's tacky.


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

So I took the time to try and make my own drain tube from the front of the rear bench to the bilge area out of 12oz biax. Anyone have a reason to scrap this idea and just use a piece of PVC before I cut the bulkheads?


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

Slowly chipping away and knocking things off the to-do list. While waiting for epoxy to cure, I decided to Flitz the grab bar. I now know why it was wrapped in parachord. You know the saying about polishing a turd... So now I’ll be wrapping it back up at some point!

The top of the rear bench is just sitting there until I get some floatation foam (once covid ends). So I moved on to start the front bench. It most certainly will NOT have gutters around the hatch. I am way too far behind and my wife is 8 months pregnant with my future fishing partner. The goal was to be done before the first flood tide and labor.










Another pro tip, that no one warned me about... Be meticulous when spreading thickened epoxy fillets and radii. Don’t just slather it on because you will be sanding for days.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Copahee Hound said:


> Slowly chipping away and knocking things off the to-do list. While waiting for epoxy to cure, I decided to Flitz the grab bar. I now know why it was wrapped in parachord. You know the saying about polishing a turd... So now I’ll be wrapping it back up at some point!
> 
> The top of the rear bench is just sitting there until I get some floatation foam (once covid ends). So I moved on to start the front bench. It most certainly will NOT have gutters around the hatch. I am way too far behind and my wife is 8 months pregnant with my future fishing partner. The goal was to be done before the first flood tide and labor.
> 
> ...



That is a lesson that I wish I would have listened to. It as extended my project for days sanding my sloppy epoxy work.


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

As usual, one step forward, two steps back! On the day I was going to epoxy in the front bench bulkheads, I read a thread about securing the battery on here and remembered that was one of my biggest pet peeves when running this boat. In any light chop, I could see the unsecured battery bouncing and moving around. So I had to do some more sanding way up under the casting deck and mock up a battery shelf. 
















No, I will not be using a box or tray, but a simple strap will prolong the life of the new battery that will be replacing this old one. And no, the new one will probably not be one of those fancy Odyssey PC batteries.

While I was waiting for glass to dry, I moved onto the severely worn push pole that came with this boat. It must have set out in the sun its entire life. If I even looked at it, I could feel fibers digging into my hands. I followed the steps from @Cam from a few years ago. Although I can't remember what the title of his thread was, I managed to get a screen shot.








Well, I just figured out the title is on my screenshot. My pole was so badly tarnished, I used 220 grit, followed by some 2000 grit, then acetone, then one can of the 2K spray. 24 hours later, another light scratch of 2000 grit, acetone, and then the second can of spray. It actually worked! I was just going to scrap the pole if this didn't work and find a used Stiffy, but now there's no need.








Once the battery shelf is tabbed in, I can then move onto getting the front bench taped in. Unfortunately, I don't have enough tape, CSM, chip brushes, floatation or epoxy so it will probably be awhile before I can show any more progress. Until next time, thanks for following along.


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

Ok so I lied about it being a long time since posting any progress. The battery shelf is in, and I am actually very proud of the result. However, my curiosity got the better of me tonight and I need y’all to talk me out of doing something crazy...
View attachment 134090


So I mocked up the front bench, and made sure it was going to be square before it is permanent, and noticed that a yeti roadie fits perfect inside where my hatch is going to be. Add a cushion and it would be pretty comfy. I know that in the not so long term, resale value this is stupid, but it could be a nice benefit of throwing the cooler in the way. 

Tell me if this is genius, or the dumbest thing you’ve ever seen! It’s late, and I’m running on fumes...


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## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

For me... anything that gets in the way of being able to move from the bow to the stern easily and back again... is a non-starter. You're the guy who has to live with it though. Unless you have a center console, having your cooler either mounted length wise so you have as much room on each side to get by it or having it set butted up tight to either the front or rear deck, leaving as much open space in your interior as possible would be what I would try to accomplish.
Hope this helps - "Aren't boats fun?"


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## Tigweld (Oct 26, 2017)

How will the rod holders work?


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

Tigweld said:


> How will the rod holders work?


Those are the old ones, but the top row goes over the front bench so it will clear one fly rod on each side and the lowers will clear my 7'2" spinning rods. You can kind of see it in the pic at the top of this page. I will be modifying them for better clearance on the top row for fly rods, but I'm wanting to do rod tubes. Nor do I own enough fly rods to justify the effort.


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## Net 30 (Mar 24, 2012)

With your skills, my vote would be for a custom made insulated coffin box that runs vertical...kinda like Frigid Rigid quality. Gelcoat it to match the hull and it would look tits!

Nice thick cushion, great access to rod holders and able to walk around easily.


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Net 30 said:


> With your skills, my vote would be for a custom made insulated coffin box that runs vertical...kinda like Frigid Rigid quality. Gelcoat it to match the hull and it would look tits!
> 
> Nice thick cushion, great access to rod holders and able to walk around easily.


This. One of my dreams after I get done with my build is a custom cooler with two divided compartments. One for fish, one for drinks and food.


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## Zika (Aug 6, 2015)

Nice progress. Agree with Capt. Bob about the cooler/bench. I keep mine loose against the front bulkhead. Easy access, best mobility and it also doubles as a casting platform. The Yeti configuration may work for awhile, but I'll bet you would quickly get tired of the extra steps.


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## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

Here’s a trick that allows my customers to use the same 80qt Engel cooler for both food and drink -as well as the few fish we bring back for the table..... It’s pretty simple -the fish go into a new plastic garbage bag before going into that cooler. All of the food and drink stays clean and cold, the fish are properly kept cold, and my cooler is a heck of a lot cleaner at the end of every day... Something I really appreciate.

By the way in small skiffs where you don’t have a deck to secure things with screws or other fasteners - there is a great alternative. That is to mount mounting small blocks by glassing them to the hull - then you can use screws to attach anchoring hardware into those blocks without compromising the hull at all...


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

Thanks guys! I'll heed the advice and continue on as scheduled. I do have a 65qt that I'll run as a coffin for awhile. If there is enough foam left over, I'd love to add a coffin but I think when it's all said and done, I may only have enough core to make a casting platform. The divider would be awesome and require one less cooler onboard.


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## Backcountry 16 (Mar 15, 2016)

Centerline in the gladesmans key as you know you will get tired of climbing over that yeti. I say leave it out just my 2 cents.


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## Backcountry 16 (Mar 15, 2016)

Progress is looking good get that thing finished so we can do a gman meet up.


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

So I was able to get to our local fiberglass supply house and I must say, what a nightmare! Not only do you have to place an online order before you are acknowledged, but the inventory is never updated so it may, or may not even be in stock. So... I ordered 6” 12oz tape and got 12” 1708 tape. I’ve been asking for 10oz glass for a year now to no avail and they finally had it in but gave me the wrong amount. Fortunately, everything else was correct. I just hope I have enough epoxy and q cells to finish this thing and be done with them. I won’t mention their name, because it changes yearly, and I’m not one to blast any local small business. However, if I ever have another project boat, which I don’t ever foresee that in my future, I’ll gladly pay shipping from any other supplier! Sorry for the rant.

Anyway, progress has been made. I must say, floatation foam is pretty cool to watch. Would probably be out of this world if I was hanging out with Cheech and Chong like a teen.

In order for me not to waste bigger, otherwise unusable scraps of 4lb carbon core, I cutout and stacked the foam in place. I left gaps around the edges and drilled numerous 1/2” holes to fill the voids with 4lb floatation foam. 









Ive got some more tabbing to do before I can get the top of the benches on. I still haven’t figured out what to for the hatch on the front bench, but I may just do a square lid for simplicity and time. We’ll find out together


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

Weekend was overall successful even though I had a mishap of not mixing a small batch of resin correctly in the rear gutter. That’s going to be fun to remove and sand. I got the all the float foam cut flush and now the front bench seat just needs a flange for the hatch lid to rest on. I’ll order some hinges and latches tonight before I cut any holes. Also got my rod holders templated so the reality of this thing going back in the water is nearing!


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

I'm ashamed to say how long it took me to glass the rod holders. 105 degree heat index has deterred me from putting on the white bunny suit to do any sanding and I'd rather spend my evenings with our 6 week old son to be honest. 

I was also just going to use a piano hinge on the front lid for simplicity and time, but when I was on the Gemlux website, they had these hinges on clearance for $1.77 each so I couldn't pass that up. Recessing them didn't add much time or effort either. My question is, do I need to through bolt the hinges on the lid side, or will the drill, fill, drill method be sufficient?


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

thru bolting would be pretty easy in that location so why wouldn't you?


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

You’re right Dev, wasnt thinking clearly.


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

Well, the good news, all I have left is to fair and finish glassing the front hatch lid and make the rear hatch lid. I won't be building up the fairing compound to a 1/4" like CM does to make his boats pretty because it's not that important to me and I'm not going for a show boat quality finish. Just going to add up a few skim coats to hide the tape and make the corners pretty. Waiting on another bunny suit to show up from Amazon and need to buy a better quality sander before spending an entire day sanding. The cheap Skil 1/4 sheet sander I bought in high school finally crapped out and the pad was almost worn completely through. Any recs on a new one? Thinking Dewalt, but don't have a Festool budget.

The biggest bone headed mistake I've made thus far, showed itself last night. I should have faired and sanded underneath the front deck before building the front bench. Very poor planning! Even though I'm rather small at 6' tall and 160 lbs, 18" is not enough room for me get in there and work. I would have taken a selfie for reference, but I couldn't move my arm, and I don't do yoga










Atleast I was smart enough to fair the battery shelf that's way up in the bow after I taped it in.


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

Copahee Hound said:


> Well, the good news, all I have left is to fair and finish glassing the front hatch lid and make the rear hatch lid. I won't be building up the fairing compound to a 1/4" like CM does to make his boats pretty because it's not that important to me and I'm not going for a show boat quality finish. Just going to add up a few skim coats to hide the tape and make the corners pretty. Waiting on another bunny suit to show up from Amazon and need to buy a better quality sander before spending an entire day sanding. The cheap Skil 1/4 sheet sander I bought in high school finally crapped out and the pad was almost worn completely through. Any recs on a new one? Thinking Dewalt, but don't have a Festool budget.
> 
> The biggest bone headed mistake I've made thus far, showed itself last night. I should have faired and sanded underneath the front deck before building the front bench. Very poor planning! Even though I'm rather small at 6' tall and 160 lbs, 18" is not enough room for me get in there and work. I would have taken a selfie for reference, but I couldn't move my arm, and I don't do yoga
> 
> ...


Since becoming a “poor boy”, I’ve become a fan of ridged tools. My shed looks like the homer barfed in it lol! But I have had great luck with all my orange tools, they are priced affordably, and if one should fail they have a lifetime service agreement! All ya gotta fo is register it after purchase. This goes for batteries on cordless tools also!!!


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

4 Amp Corded 6 in. Variable-Speed Dual Random Orbital Sander with AIRGUARD Technology-R26111 - The Home Depot


RIDGID Variable-Speed Dual Random Orbit Sander with AIRGUARD Technology is used to maintain constant speed and power under load applications.



www.googleadservices.com




This is the Ridged 6” RO sander I bought a couple years ago and she is still goin’ strong.


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

JC Designs said:


> 4 Amp Corded 6 in. Variable-Speed Dual Random Orbital Sander with AIRGUARD Technology-R26111 - The Home Depot
> 
> 
> RIDGID Variable-Speed Dual Random Orbit Sander with AIRGUARD Technology is used to maintain constant speed and power under load applications.
> ...


Went to HD and Lowe’s, they had your sander but I think it’s a little too long to reach into tight areas. Both places inventory was completely picked over and barely had any sanding discs available.Ill check out Ace tomorro, but I have a feeling it will be the same results. Looks like I may not be sanding anytime soon


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

Copahee Hound said:


> Went to HD and Lowe’s, they had your sander but I think it’s a little too long to reach into tight areas. Both places inventory was completely picked over and barely had any sanding discs available.Ill check out Ace tomorro, but I have a feeling it will be the same results. Looks like I may not be sanding anytime soon


Well that sucks! Damn the covid!


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

First, I layed down a piece of plywood to act as the deck itself. Then the 2x2's that I sanded to flush 90 degree angles and routed to 1/4" radii will act as my gutter. This should allow me to have a flush 1/2" cored hatch to rest on where the ply would be when its flipped over? (Sanding and routing done today)

To help myself and maybe anyone reading this that needs help... Having not worked with polyester resin, I know that first, I need polyester resin (Total Boat polyester resin is readily available on Amazon). I'm done dealing with our only local (only supply)! After this mold is ready to go, I then "THINK" I need WAXED gelcoat first? Then start my layup? The MEK is what catilyzes the polyester?


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

Copahee Hound said:


> It has been a little over 6 weeks since I've updated this, but in my defense, I did take 2 weeks off. Not off work of coarse, because I'm not blessed with that much vacation time, but 2 weeks off of hiding from my wife in the garage. Since this is my thread, I'll digress from the skiff a bit and share some inserts from my diary.
> 
> Dear diary,
> I must say Brevard, NC was a nice change from sea level (pics of DuPont State Park, I brought the long rod but the water was a little quick. Even Davidson River Outfitters said take a hike ). Would be really cool to have a cabin in the hills to escape from hurricanes! This is better than the view I get with Bahama shutters overlooking my neighbors yard!
> ...


You pretty much have the jist.
A 1/4” radius is a bit tight, doable but tight.

You may want to make it a 3/8 or 1/2” and thank me later!😎

You want gelcoat without wax aka laminating gelcoat.

MEK-P is what catalyzes your resin and gelcoat. MEK is a solvent.

For a 1/2” cored lid to fit the ply should be @ 5/8” or thicker to allow for gelcoat/fairing/glass layers.


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

JC Designs said:


> You pretty much have the jist.
> A 1/4” radius is a bit tight, doable but tight.
> 
> You may want to make it a 3/8 or 1/2” and thank me later!😎
> ...


Correction: I did use a 1/2" roundover bit. 

Thanks for the rest!


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

You bet!


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## Charles Hadley (Jan 20, 2019)

JC Designs said:


> Plus, just take a look at them... nothin’ but a bunch of sissy soy boys, I’d take’em all on! I’ve been beat by bigger and badder.


Wrong thread bud


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

Charles Hadley said:


> Wrong thread bud


Oops


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

Almost at the "good enough" point of fairing and sanding as divorce has been threatened if this project makes it to the 2 year mark. I've found that the oscillating tool with the 3" trianglular sanding head works great for all the corners and nooks and crannies. No pics of fairing as it looks the same from my old iphone6 camera as before. The 4th time is the charm on the rear gutter mold, though. 










This will one will give me better access to wiring and plano box storage. I ended up using wood filler in the joints and sanded it down to 220 grit. 

Are y'all applying multiple coats of wax before adding the modeling clay to the bottom? Will that make it impossible for the clay to stay in place? Or do you roll out the clay, then prime and paint, and then apply wax? Really not wanting to glass this 4 times as well. TIA


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

Looking great! Can't speak to the clay, but I waxed after putting the fillets in.

My deck mold was a disaster though, so take that for what it's worth


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## jasonrl23 (Jul 27, 2009)

Copahee Hound said:


> Are y'all applying multiple coats of wax before adding the modeling clay to the bottom? Will that make it impossible for the clay to stay in place?


I always wax first. That way when you run your fillet shaper through the clay the fillets are perfect when the excess is cleaned off (vs messing the edges of them up when waxing).


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

@bryson Ha, no offense, but your deck adventure is exactly what I'm trying to avoid. I need something to go smoothly and the sound of sanders are haunting my dreams

Thanks @jasonrl23 The poly resin should be here tomorrow so I'll be waxing and rolling out/shaping clay tonight


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

Work schedules forced me to take another break but got back at this week. Our TV got fried from a lightning storm (again) so it's making a great laminating table. I rolled 2 layers of gelcoat, 2 layers of 1.5 oz CSM, and 1 layer of 10 oz e glass last night. I noticed this morning that some of the e glass folded over on me. It was late, and my lighting was inadequate so I'll have to grind those off before I can continue with the 1708. 

Working with the CSM was a dream but I can't say the same about polyester resin. It catylizes so fast compared to epoxy and left me with minimal working time but I guess that's just the nature of the beast. Crossing my fingers that this thing separates from the mold in a couple days!


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

Fresh out of the mold! It's not pretty, but it will be functional. It took an hour to separate and I had to deconstruct the mold in order to do so. I wish I would have sprung for PVA. Instead, I applied four coats of Johnson's paste wax. Some gelcoat came off and the clay dried and adhered to the gutters. So now I'm in the process of sanding and trying to use chemicals to remove the clay. I don't know what went wrong but at least I can move forward and try to figure out how to make a hatch lid that fits. Any pointers with that would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for following along










P.S. This will also be the last lousy picture from my old iPhone 6 as it no longer works


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

She's lookin sweet brother.


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

Okay, here we go again... The rear hatch lid came out amazing (for a rookie). It's starting to look like a gladesmen again. The holidays and absolutely frigid weather has set me back even more. I know, excuses, excuses...


















Unfortunately, I have been waiting for 2 months on my backordered epoxy for arrive. Therefore, I can't fill and tab the rear gutter in or do any final fairing. In the meantime, I built an outboard motor stand with some scrap wood laying around via Pinterest and need to address the now neglected yamaha. I say neglected because this was not supposed to sit for over a year and a half. In fact, it's so neglected that the tiller arm was stuck in the up position. After some persuasion, it's now stuck in the down position. What do I do???










I assume I would need to grease the tiller arm somehow, but if you look closely at the base of the tiller arm, one of the 2 bolts holding that little cover on has been broken off. I assume someone before me knew there was a problem here. So in the meantime, there's still wiring, O/B maintenance, hatch latches (think I'm going to stay with Gemlux) and primer and paint (was thinking Alexseal, but I don't like the price so probably Totalboat).

I will one day put these flies to use on this skiff, but it's not looking like winter low tide fish... Maybe summer floods? Hopefully! Bead chain clouser on top and I don't even know what to call the bottom one. That was the result of boredom and bourbon but I think the hackle will make it a little shrimpy? Bathtub test will tell









(Edit) Dang my windows are dirty. Don't judge, I've been busy


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Copahee Hound said:


> don't even know what to call the bottom one.


Looks like a fairly bad attempt at a wooly bugger....stick to boat building


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## jackson man (Aug 13, 2020)

DuckNut said:


> Looks like a fairly bad attempt at a wooly bugger....stick to boat building


 Chances are that if a fish gets close enough to critique your fly, he's planning on eating it! Let's blame the bourbon!


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

DuckNut said:


> Looks like a fairly bad attempt at a wooly bugger....stick to boat building


Now you have me thinking a size 1 wooly could be the new redfish crack! I‘ll fish the whatchamacallit booger exclusively at some low tide SC reds and report back. However, I won’t lie, I’m not too proud to soak some live shrimp and chill with an adult beverage in hand🤫

Jackson, you’d be surprised how many times my fly gets critiqued, rejected and not eaten. (Giggity) That’s why I figure something the fish haven’t seen may help. Very well could be the guy waving the stick at the fish wrong


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Copahee Hound said:


> Now you have me thinking a size 1 wooly could be the new redfish crack! I‘ll fish the whatchamacallit booger exclusively at some low tide SC reds and report back. However, I won’t lie, I’m not too proud to soak some live shrimp and chill with an adult beverage in hand🤫
> 
> Jackson, you’d be surprised how many times my fly gets critiqued, rejected and not eaten. (Giggity) That’s why I figure something the fish haven’t seen may help. Very well could be the guy waving the stick at the fish wrong


Not to derail this into a fly tying thread - trying to tie a dobsonfly with natural colors is impossible. I then used lint from the dryer after drying blue jeans - bingo. Exact color when wet.


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## BrownDog (Jun 22, 2019)

Copahee Hound said:


> Now you have me thinking a size 1 wooly could be the new redfish crack! I‘ll fish the whatchamacallit booger exclusively at some low tide SC reds and report back.


I have been meaning to bring out the 5wt and a wooly bugger on one of these lows as well. I have no doubts I can get an eat on it.


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

Quick update on the outboard... I was able to get the tiller handle free. Drilled out the broken screw, pried the handle out, removed the wires to find the the plastic bushings were shot. Easy fix. Just cleaned everything up, some waterproof grease and new plastic bushings. All is great again, right? NOPE! Upon reassembly, I used a tap/die to chase out the threads from the broken bolt, and it snapped inside the hole too. Oops! What now? Drink a beer and roll with it? IDK how to get this one out and it's really stuck in there!









Also took care of some maintenance items that needed to be addressed since its been sitting for so long. The first thing I did when I bought this used was replace all the fluids, filters, spark plug, etc. and it ran pretty good for the few months I enjoyed it before the saws were brought out. I was lazy and ready to get on the water so I didn't inspect/replace the water pump even not knowing the history of any routine maintenance. Moral of that rant is ALWAYS check and replace EVERYTHING when you buy a used outboard! Lesson learned









Fortunately, my epoxy finally arrived so I can move onto filling and tabbing in the rear hatch, then final fairing/sanding. Never been so excited to sand in my life, but I can almost see the light at the end of the tunnel now. I have decided to use Alexseal products for primer and paint as their US distribution facility is on the road I used to live on.) Andy at Boatworks Today recently did a tutorial of their rolling additive so I'll try my luck with that. Hopefully, I'll be ready for paint right as pollen arrives in the lowcountry😢


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## TX_Brad (Jun 8, 2018)

getting a tap out of a hole is tricky. In my line of work, we'd just crush it with a punch, but in your case, I'd be careful you don't damage anything around it. I'd try to freeze it and make it as brittle as possible.


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

TX_Brad said:


> getting a tap out of a hole is tricky. In my line of work, we'd just crush it with a punch, but in your case, I'd be careful you don't damage anything around it. I'd try to freeze it and make it as brittle as possible.


Thanks! I've completely forgot about freeze off. Haven't had to use it for years


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

2 Coats of Alexseal 442 finishing primer rolled on before and after. I reduced it 10-15% to get a little bit of build but also expose what I could no longer see. When you stare at bare glass, old paint and primer, and splatter for so long, it's hard to see imperfections.































No the "paint booth" isn't ideal, but like I said, pollen would be kicking in just as I'm ready to paint. Sure enough, I pressure washed the garage last weekend and before I could enclose my open aired garage with tarps, pollen is in full effect! The primer is still a little wet, but I'm happy so far in finding that there is only a couple of spots that need further fairing or attention. We'll see tomorrow as it will be dry and imperfections will be easier to spot with it finally being one color.


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

Oh, forgot to ask to about paint colors (still undecided)... So I'm quite partial to an ice blue hull and a shade of grey interior but since this hull is some sort of off white, maybe matterhorn, I am thinking about the whole interior in Ice tone blue or ice blue. Thoughts and suggestions appreciated. Pics are welcomed. I don't want to purchase 2 colors for the interior is the only reason I won't go a different color non skid. However, a white deck is out of the question


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Copahee Hound said:


> Oh, forgot to ask to about paint colors (still undecided)... So I'm quite partial to an ice blue hull and a shade of grey interior but since this hull is some sort of off white, maybe matterhorn, I am thinking about the whole interior in Ice tone blue or ice blue. Thoughts and suggestions appreciated. Pics are welcomed. I don't want to purchase 2 colors for the interior is the only reason I won't go a different color non skid. However, a white deck is out of the question


Light grey on the deck would be my suggestion. Easy to keep clean and not a lot of glare like a light colored deck.


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## BrownDog (Jun 22, 2019)

I have an ice blue hull and whisper grey deck.

As mentioned above, I very much like the grey deck for glare and it hides some dirt.


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## rpm0226 (Feb 24, 2021)

I was the original owner of that skiff. Shame what happened to it after it left my hands. Glad to see you restoring her! The one boat that I regret getting rid of.


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

rpm0226 said:


> I was the original owner of that skiff. Shame what happened to it after it left my hands. Glad to see you restoring her! The one boat that I regret getting rid of.


I have many questions for you! PM coming your way!

If you want it back, I'll let it go really cheap! Probably save my marriage


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

Well, I did get to speak with RPM about the origin of this skiff and I wish I had known sooner. He intentionally didn't want a cap. Only a casting deck and benches with no storage hatches from ECC, but just filled with floatation foam. The 2nd owner cut into the benches and installed those cheap plastic drop-in hatches and clearly didn't seal them properly and it was probably waterlogged from that point on. We also figured out that I'm at least the 6th owner. Here's what she looked like back in the day, with the original ECC decal as well








I actually buffed a small area and drug it out in the sun and can see the outline of the original decal. Come to find out, the trailer tongue is removable. Not that I need it to be, but I think it's a good theft deterrent when sitting in the back yard without a way to tow it away. 

Actual progress as of late...All of the holes that were drilled into the foam for hinges, latches, grab bar, and battery shelf have been over drilled, filled with thickened epoxy, and re-drilled. I wanted to do a final round of fairing, but Mama Bear said "NO! Just get it done!" Now waiting on New Wire to send me the switch panel so I can drill those holes on the rear bulk head. Then, a final scuff with 150 grit and prime and paint. Now leaning towards matterhorn instead of ice blue and undecided about doing non skid, but I need to decide because it's time to order!


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## Open Fly -The Later Years (Feb 1, 2020)

Nice job Copahee ! Hope you are going to be finished soon.


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## Backcountry 16 (Mar 15, 2016)

I would non skid the floor at


Copahee Hound said:


> Well, I did get to speak with RPM about the origin of this skiff and I wish I had known sooner. He intentionally didn't want a cap. Only a casting deck and benches with no storage hatches from ECC, but just filled with floatation foam. The 2nd owner cut into the benches and installed those cheap plastic drop-in hatches and clearly didn't seal them properly and it was probably waterlogged from that point on. We also figured out that I'm at least the 6th owner. Here's what she looked like back in the day, with the original ECC decal as well
> View attachment 173224
> 
> I actually buffed a small area and drug it out in the sun and can see the outline of the original decal. Come to find out, the trailer tongue is removable. Not that I need it to be, but I think it's a good theft deterrent when sitting in the back yard without a way to tow it away.
> ...


I would atleast non skid the cockpit mine use to be slippery first thing in the morning I non skid the cockpit much better now. Looking good.


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

Backcountry 16 said:


> I would non skid the floor at
> 
> I would atleast non skid the cockpit mine use to be slippery first thing in the morning I non skid the cockpit much better now. Looking good.


BC, when you get a chance can you snap a close up of your non skid cockpit and the method you chose? Post it here or PM, I don't care... 

If I'm going to do the cockpit, I may as well do the platforms as well because I spend most of my time on the front/rear. Don't know if I want to mix it in the paint or sprinkle. I'll do some test panels when I get the paint but I'm not really wanting the "caked" on look so probably leaning towards mixing it in


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## Backcountry 16 (Mar 15, 2016)

Copahee Hound said:


> BC, when you get a chance can you snap a close up of your non skid cockpit and the method you chose? Post it here or PM, I don't care...
> 
> If I'm going to do the cockpit, I may as well do the platforms as well because I spend most of my time on the front/rear. Don't know if I want to mix it in the paint or sprinkle. I'll do some test panels when I get the paint but I'm not really wanting the "caked" on look so probably leaning towards mixing it in


Will do


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

Just spit balling an idea out there...Is there a reason not to tape off and add non skid to my final layer of primer? Then I could just paint my 3 topcoats and be done, right? @JC Designs any input?


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

The reason that I would not do it is... If you go this rt, you risk bleed through of primer color into your finished part. Always start with a base of topcoat so you can avoid this. Also, to get the coverage needed to hide the primer you will end up filling/covering your nonskid rendering it not as useful


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

Thanks again, makes perfect sense. That's why we pay you the big bucks


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

Copahee Hound said:


> Thanks again, makes perfect sense. That's why we pay you the big bucks


Welcome as always, and HA!🤣🤣🤣


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

Got her flipped... I wasn't going to, but my switch panel is still a month out from New Wire so I figured why not. She's as pretty on the bottom as she was up top. 









I've got some serious wet sanding and buffing to do to get it close to being whisper gray again. Then it's time to learn how to color match and apply gel coat. 

Also got to see how rough the trailer really is once the hull was removed. One of these knucklehead owners sprayed galvanize paint/primer on the rear cross member with the boat on the trailer! WTF?! So adding to the current to-do list is a new axle, springs, may as well do the hubs, and get a welder's advice on a new rear cross member. And oh yeah @DuckNut the fender backs need to be replaced


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

Look forward to seeing how you tackle this!

I wonder if ECC would sell you some of the original color gelcoat, or tell you how to purchase some? Although it might not quite match anymore, it might be close enough to save you the headache of trying to match it yourself.


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

bryson said:


> Look forward to seeing how you tackle this!
> 
> I wonder if ECC would sell you some of the original color gelcoat, or tell you how to purchase some? Although it might not quite match anymore, it might be close enough to save you the headache of trying to match it yourself.


I actually called a mobile marine guy that has been advertising on IG to come over and match it for me, but that was over a week ago and no word since. I'm assuming he's not interested in probably only an hour worth of work. I'm going to call another one on Sully's tomorrow/Monday. If he falls through as well, I'll probably just get to mixing since I already have gel coat from my hatch molds and the pigments will arrive on Tuesday. I mean, how hard can it be to tint white into light gray?


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

Well it's been awhile since an update, but all that I'm left with is wiring the tabs, bilge, and applying non skid. To answer my question on another thread... YES, Alexseal 501 topcoat is slippery when wet without non skid! My sweaty knees we slipping when I was finishing out the minor details. 

None of the "mobile" marine repair "specialists" were kind enough to come out and match my gelcoat, let alone give me a call to say they weren't coming at all! I would blast them on their social media platforms, but I have better things to do. But seriously, if you're in the Charleston, SC area the mobile guys probably aren't going to show up for your little skiff when they have mega yachts they can "repair" at a premium. Sorry, but our money isn't green enough for them... Rant over

I was NOT able to match the gel coat perfectly.. It looked to be perfect in my brightly lighted garage, but upon bringing the skiff into actual sunlight was a different story. It's not terrible and I will be adding more scratches anyways, but I now know better for the next time.

I ended up going with the blue tone white for the interior. It is a closer to white in bright light, but more of an ice blue in lower light. I was hoping for more ice blue all around but I am overall satisfied with the color. We also went with the color as a compromise to paint the obnoxious lime green golf cart...

















I have no prior experience of painting a boat, but the the rolling additive Alexseal has developed truly did make the finish look like it was was sprayed. The paint and primer was pricey but I'd do it all over again after the result.

After 2 years... come July 24th, the outboard fired up on the 3rd pull. Nothing fancy, but I did run non ethanol before it was stored. I will (hopefully) be splashing it again on Sunday and maybe hitting a small flood tide! Fingers crossed that she doesn't delaminate or sink, however, it's insured for for more than I have in it


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

She looks absolutely stunning in those pics! Very nice work!👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻🤙🏻


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## Backcountry 16 (Mar 15, 2016)

Nice restoration on this Gladesman well done now fo enjoy her


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## Charles Hadley (Jan 20, 2019)

Wow looks amazing!


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

(2nd) maiden voyage update... The 20 hp was a perfect pair for the waterlogged canoe, but 20 hp for the light weight canoe is scary freaking fast!!! It does really need the tabs to be operational because it porpused really badly over half throttle.

The first 3 hours of running the sound were great without problems. I ran it hard though boat wakes and consistent chop and haven't seen any cracking or signs of delam yet. So I decided to fish when the tide got high and I stumbled upon a tailer, but spooked her.

Decided it was time to go home and eat dinner with the family but the outboard wouldn't start... Fortunately, I have great neighbors that were out and we weren't far from the landing. Looks like I have some more maintenance to tend to


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

Congrats; looks really good! I'm sure she scoots with the light weight and narrow beam.


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

Prewired the bilge and tabs using misc wires laying around to make sure it all still works and that the switch is wired correctly. New wire did an awesome job and labeled each wire as well. I cannot source a new blue sea fuse block due to covid shortages, so I cleaned it up and will replace it once I can find one. I'm not a fan of this bilge pump because it's only an on/off with no automatic feature so will replacing it with an Attwood sahara I have from a previous skiff that I never installed.









I really marred up the previous charging cable from the outboard to the battery trying to get it out of the old chase tube, and cannot figure out what it's called. I tried google and simyamaha but not idea what I'm looking for... Anyone know what this 2 pin charging cable is/part number?









I have yet to get the outboard to start since it ran great for 3 hours. We're thinking it could be that I used 3/8" fuel line instead of the smaller line that was already installed. That doesn't make since to me because it ran for 3 hours with it... But going to borrow a buddy's tank and fuel line to rule those out. 

Will also grab a carb rebuild kit just because it did sit for so long and was already neglected on maintenance before I stored it. I'll also get another fuel filter and possibly a fuel pump. I really don't want to spend too much time throwing parts at it before I just take it to the dealer and get it squared away correctly. 

As always, any help or advice appreciated!


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## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

When you do replace that bilge pump or other wiring - make a point of using new tinned copper wire of the right size -the only thing to use for a marine installation... and make sure you have a fuse (the right sized fuse) for each item you set up (bilge, trim tabs, lights, etc). A simple in-line fuse for each appliance will do until you can get the fuse block (or breaker setup) you want for a proper setup.... You'll be glad you did... By the way that Rule pump, while not ideal, will usually be the most reliable item in your rigging - if the wiring, switch, and fuse are in good working condition... Don't forget to do a proper heat shrink insulation on each connection you make as well - the same way a pro would do... That will provide both long service (and peace of mind...).

Hope this helps... "Aren't boats fun?"


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

Yes sir! @lemaymiami All of my wiring has been purchased from New Wire Marine | Switch Panels | Switches | Rocker Switch Covers | Wire They have been awesome! From the custom switch panel, products and customer support, I won't buy anything from anyone else.

Are you saying that Rule pumps are preferred by most? If they are truly better/more reliable than the Attwood, I wouldn't want to cheap out on something as important as a bilge pump.


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## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

Use the pump that works for you... if you replace that Rule pump - keep it as a spare (or back-up)... I have two Rule pumps (a pair of 1100 gph series) that have lasted for years - and Johnsons (for my baitwell) that I replace every six months to one year... The difference is striking...


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

After weekend update: Completely wired the bilge and tabs and everything worked at home. Put it in the water and for some reason, the starboard tab wouldn't operate. Got back to the trailer, and they both worked. Frustrating, but I'll get it sorted out this week. Could just be a loose connection somewhere, or the fact I'm reusing the old fuse block.

My fuel issue has been solved. I realize that I messed up and bought 3/8" line and primer bulb, but used 5/16" barbs for the tank and outboard. Put 5/16" line on and re-used the old primer bulb and ran like a champ until the storms came through Saturday afternoon. 

So I downloaded a phone speedometer app just to see how fast this things goes... 









26 mph at slack tide with one operation tab and the motor was not locked from the breakaway. I'm sure it would be faster with the motor locked and proper tab, but I will not be hitting this speed in a canoe again. A 2 stroke 15 would be perfect for my needs. 

All that is left is non skid and trailer maintenance and we can call this complete!


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## Boatright (May 18, 2021)

Nice Gladesmen, Thanks for all the detail.


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

Calling this project *complete *(for now). I will eventually get to the trailer maintenance, but for now it will not be leaving the neighborhood so I'm not worried the axle, springs, bearings, etc.

I did keep an ongoing spreadsheet for every penny used to do this. This includes the 4 sheets of carbon-core, glass, resins, popsicle sticks, sandpaper, PPE, bug spray, hardware, electrical, primer/paint, outboard maintenance, etc. I mean every last red cent was calculated, except whatever my labor and time is worth. I did not include the cost of tools, because I either had them, or needed them for other projects anyways. Less the purchase price of the boat, motor and trailer, it came out to be $4,776.36. It could have been done cheaper, but I used expensive gloves that I've been using for automotive work for 15 years, and they doubled in price to almost $50/box once the world ended. There was also a fair amount of wasted epoxy trying to figure out how much to mix for specific sized tasks, but it was a short learning curve. (Edit) The Alexseal primer/paint was almost $1k by itself (gallon of each w/converters/additives), but that's one decision that I'm glad I went for quality! 

The only thing left to leave everyone with is the nonskid, and 1st fish after the rebuild... Thanks for all the advice, lessons, and for following along!


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## Clubhunter (Jan 22, 2019)

Very impressive rebuild. Thanks for taking us along.


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## culligan (May 5, 2016)

Great to see you fixed the things the way they should of been done the first time. Very pretty!! Enjoy it!!


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## K3anderson (Jan 23, 2013)

Awesome. I've followed from the beginning. On to the next one


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

Thanks guys! We are thoroughly enjoying it and mostly neglecting the bay boat….As for the next one, I told myself never again! However, it will be in the works as soon as the supply chain goes back to normal and I can convince mama bear


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## SISW (Apr 21, 2011)

Chris Morejohn said:


> You read this correctly. What ever I write on this site and my blogs is just my personal opinion.
> My experience with epoxy as a secondary bond to polyester has been very mixed. West systems brand is a great product... but they like to sell their products. So they like to sell home builder repair guys a bunch of goods that cost you a fortune, when in reality it’s like they are cutting the drugs so thin and charging so much.
> I buy glass bubbles in 50 lb bags. Costs $250.00. If repackaged like West or in the local store it’s worth around $1200.00.
> The key thing with epoxy against polyester is the surface preparation. You have to grind back to raw glass, which means no Gelcoat at all. If the epoxy goes over old Gelcoat or paint or dirt eventually water will get under that edge and it can fail. Same as polyester resin. So it’s not a miracle glue like they want you to think.
> ...


Very good advise here from Chris.


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## Clwise12 (Dec 5, 2020)

Glad I found this thread. Crazy overhaul, congrats!


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## andrewjn (Sep 25, 2009)

Looks awesome. Glad to see people still using the Gladesman. My favorite boat of all time.


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## Nate38 (4 mo ago)

fun work ahead!


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## 97dimebryan (May 22, 2015)

Man that thing is sweet! Almost hard to believe it’s the same boat!


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