# RandallCraft transom replacement



## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Jason Cooper said:


> In the next week I will begin replacing the transom on my RandallCraft 14. The new core material will be Coosa board 1.5" thick. Will be using polyester resin. Also will be adding knee braces.
> 
> Has anyone replaced the transom before on a boat like this? One of my concerns is making the transom cap so it looks correct.


Browse thru the 'bragging section,' lots of good build threads, some epoxy, some poly. I believe @ceejkay did a nice quality build with poly resins, @LWalker has a couple with epoxy... I have a link in my signature with a transom replace but I used ply and epoxy. Good luck and post lots of photos!


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## predacious (Sep 1, 2016)

Jason Cooper said:


> In the next week I will begin replacing the transom on my RandallCraft 14. The new core material will be Coosa board 1.5" thick. Will be using polyester resin. Also will be adding knee braces.
> 
> Has anyone replaced the transom before on a boat like this? One of my concerns is making the transom cap so it looks correct.



put up a few pictures,i'm confident I can point you in the right direction


coosa board - EXCELLENT choice ! wood is NEVER a good option
coosa board,laminated using 2OZ matt,clamped together,that's an excellent method
clamping and cor-grip is another


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

I disagree with the previous post that wood in NEVER a good option. Lots of boats have stood the test of time which were built used wood. If you properly laminate with epoxy, the build is impervious to water.


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## predacious (Sep 1, 2016)

wood requires complete and total sealing,sealing with epoxy - fail to seal...problems begin...

technology changes,if it didn't we'd still have wooden hull boats...

composites are the way to fly - impervious to rotting

weight is another factor

tell me,are any flats boats made using wood coring ?


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## Jason Cooper (Dec 6, 2016)

Well I wanted to take her out one more time fishing but with a small craft advisory in effect I figured I should stay home. Discovered the transom consisted of 1 full height piece of 1/2" and another 6" wide strip of 1/2" at the top. Am I going overkill with a full height piece of 1.5" Coosa?? Needless to say she was soaked. Debating cutting a foot of floor out tonight so it can be drying out for grinding.


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## Jason Cooper (Dec 6, 2016)

Cut 6" of floor up. Looks like the entire underside of the floor is soaked. I could not find any stringers under the floor. Guessing there is only one right down the middle? Really debating on replacing the entire floor now. I want to make some changes to the layout and now would be the time. Really wanna delete both the storage boxes and make a back deck with underside storage. Extend the front deck further back and maybe have a livewell somewhere.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

looks like how my boat was built. no stringers but the keel was formed in the mold. so there is a 1.5" or so deep channel under the floor. If the back is wet more than likely the entire floor is wet. I ran into the same thing with mine and just ripped it all out and started new. 
1.5" thick transom is fine. i did the same with 2 3/4" pieces of wood. i built mine a little on the robust size just in case i ever want to strap more power on. Also ive always considered a poling platform and thats an extra 200 lbs hanging off the transom. defiantly want it sturdy.


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## Jason Cooper (Dec 6, 2016)

Cut more of the floor up and began grinding. Also cut the port side box out. Starboard box will be next.


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## CurtisWright (May 9, 2012)

Bed it into the existing transom with a layer of Matt applied to the transom and the coosa. Scuff the coosa with a 24 grit grinding disk. Pre drill about 6-10 holes through the coosa and transom and use bolts to secure it. You can take the bolts out, fill the holes and glass over them when your finishing up the hull. Use a piece of plywood on the outside of the transom to act as a big washer.


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## Jason Cooper (Dec 6, 2016)

Got alot done last night and this morning. The other box cut out, cut the front platform out then the rest of the floor. Removed 70lbs of wet foam.
View attachment 3911


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## Jason Cooper (Dec 6, 2016)

Made more dust.


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## Jason Cooper (Dec 6, 2016)

Got my materials today. 3/4" Coosa, 2 sheets of 4x8 Nidacore 1" thick, 5 gallons of resin, half a bucket of putty and a bunch of mat, biax, and woven. Got the boat off the trailer and blocked up in four places, bout to level it out to make sure there is no twist in the hull. Tomorrow I plan to start on the transom. 

Changed my layup a little. One full piece of 3/4 Coosa across the transom, another 20" wide piece where the motor mounts. Back deck will tie into the transom from the sides of the boat. So its gonna be alot stronger than before.


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## Jason Cooper (Dec 6, 2016)

Weather gonna be crappy. so got both transom pieces cut out. cut the old bow eye off and cut the backer out and all the rotted wood. Just glued in a scrap piece of coosa for the new bow eye.


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## Jason Cooper (Dec 6, 2016)

Began layout and measuring on the new floor today. Its really tricky figuring it out. Had to get creative. The first 7.5' was simple and already got it on the nidacore. Waiting on an extra set of hands now to draw the new line for the bottom of the floor at the bow. I have 3 points on each side to go off with my flexible 8' straightedge.


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## Jason Cooper (Dec 6, 2016)

1st layer of new transom is in.


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## predacious (Sep 1, 2016)

CurtisWright said:


> Bed it into the existing transom with a layer of Matt applied to the transom and the coosa. Scuff the coosa with a 24 grit grinding disk. Pre drill about 6-10 holes through the coosa and transom and use bolts to secure it. You can take the bolts out, fill the holes and glass over them when your finishing up the hull. Use a piece of plywood on the outside of the transom to act as a big washer.




using a 24g disc on a grinder - you're gonna do some serious damage to that coosa board...

Penske board/coosa board - it requires no "scruffing" prior to laminating...


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