# All my possible questions in one post! for re-doing my boat



## logandorn96 (Mar 27, 2011)

Okay i have a Carolina skiff j-16. Was planning on selling it but i decided to keep it.. But re-doing it to the way i like it.


             ALL MY QUESTIONS​1)  I Have water in my hull, So i am going to cut out the deck, re-foam it, But when putting a new deck back in what how would you do it?

2) What foam should i use to put in the boat?



3)  When I put the deck back, i'll be painting it, but i want some grip paint where do i get it? and how do i paint it on there

4) I'm also going to be paint my front deck again, with some grip paint, would i just use the same paint like i would use in question 

5) Now we all know on carolina skiffs the console, "wire hiders" and like everything is screwed into the deck, what could i do so that i don't put holes in the deck?

6) On my carolina skiff, the deck is extended but has weak spots everywhere. So i want to cut in out and put a new one in, but how would i make hatches flush on it, so it looks built in

7) On the front deck that is already there, a hatch is already cut out but i want to make it look like its built in too, so how would i make it with a hole already cut out?

thanks guys, need all help.


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## twitch (Mar 4, 2007)

Are you sure the whole deck needs to come up? The only CS I've seen that had every foam log compromised was due to hitting a submerged pipe. It was ripped open from bow to stern on the bottom, and after a lengthy drying period was repaired.

I'd post some detailed pics before you start cutting, it could save you some money and a lot of elbow grease. Is the hull delaminating?


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## Cody_Music (Mar 24, 2010)

CS j16 basic hull is really cheap. You might want to purchase just the new hull and use all your current rigging. For the time in labor and cost of materials it would be a better idea. 
My friend is a cs dealer, j16 hulls are $1650 if I recall correct.


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## floridanative1028 (May 30, 2009)

You can screw into the deck as long as you put a healthy dose of 5200, or 4200 on your screws with no problem. For the foam use either 2lb or 4lb density depending on if you have support under the decks already or not. You can get that here http://uscomposites.com/foam.html. As far as paint that's all about opinion, go search around and read reviews about the different ones to make your decision. I recommend Kiwigrip.


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## logandorn96 (Mar 27, 2011)

yes i do have to rip out some of my deck, cause the foam is like descena-grading so i want to replace it, and i'll use the most buoyant foam.

and thanks still looking for other info and advice from the pros


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## paint it black (Nov 3, 2007)

honestly, I'd start off by selling that hull on CL and getting a new/used one in better shape.
That's a LOT of work.
Dirty messy itchy work.
I did it to my old tri-hull project, well, I didn't even do it.
I assisted and watched my buddy tear it apart and gut out all the waterlogged foam.
I would never go through that again.

There's a very detailed thread in the Bragging section called "Here's my skiff..."
It shows the whole process.


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## twitch (Mar 4, 2007)

If you are dead set on doing it I wouldn't cut the whole deck out. I would cut out a 12" wide section of the deck the entire length of the floor on the centerline of the boat. This would allow you to remove the foam and you would be able to re pour the foam into the existing cavities, and be relatively easy to patch the deck.
When re pouring the foam I would tilt the boat(not quite vertical) onto its side and fill the lower half of the chambers with 4 LB foam. After filling all the chambers on one side, do the exact same thing on the empty side. With center area of the deck removed there is little to no chance of over filling the chambers and deforming the hull(or worse). It might take some trial and error to determine the right amount of foam to mix in order to fill the chambers without going overboard. the center section can be poured with the boat laying flat, and the excess trimmed off with a hand saw and 4" grinder. 

That would be my plan of attack. Take this info for what it is worth......  :-/


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## logandorn96 (Mar 27, 2011)

what do you think about this hull 

http://treasure.craigslist.org/boa/2199259935.html


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## paint it black (Nov 3, 2007)

personally, I'd pass on that.
Had a tri-hull, not a big fan of them.


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## logandorn96 (Mar 27, 2011)

okay, appreciate the opinion but any particular reason why?


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## logandorn96 (Mar 27, 2011)

you know what, I like my carolian skiff, and i dont wan t a different kind of hull and I'd rather spend $1600 redoing the boat the way i want it then spending it on just a hull, and also decided i wont start working on it till after summer so i can get some fishing done. then when winter comes(crappiest time for boat) i will re do it


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

Make sure the screws around the console are the only source of water intrusion.  Check the chines and transom edge for cracks also.

Beyond that, I'd use marine ply to put it back together.  No-wood FG construction is very hard for a shade tree boat fixer-upper.  Ply/epoxy is by far the easiest, most cost effective manner to fix a FG boat, especially decking, sole, framing and transom.  There are few materials that are more durable for the weight.  There are lighter materials, but durability decreases while expense rises.  I know one of the selling points of Carolina Skiffs is their "no wood" claim.  Honestly, I think they'd be more durable and lighter if they did use wood for certain things.  If everything is coated with epoxy +/- FG as necessary, it will last as long as the rest of the boat.  I'd recommend 6 mm for the sole and 9 mm for the decks and bulkheads.

Screws are a bit of a pain, so avoid them whenever possible.  Try to only place screws in areas that don't enter a sealed compartment.  I tap the screw hole with a 2x over-sized bit and then refill the hole with epoxy.  Once it cures, re-drill it with the appropriate bit and put the screw in with some sort of sealant.  I used transmission sealant "goo" last time.  I think it is silicon based.  Since it is under a washer, I don't worry about UV damage too much.  Only use stainless hardware.  If the hardware rusts, moisture can get around your sealant. 

Run your wire and gas line conduit under the gunnels instead of under the sole.  Epoxy the conduit in place.  Epoxy your console to the sole.  Fab your own rod racks and epoxy them to the hull instead of screwing on aftermarket ones.  Don't put any screw though the sole if it is at all possible to avoid it.

A CS is very simple.  Cutting through the sole and cleaning up the cross frames with a grinder will make you itch and scraping rotten foam sucks, but if you have the time, it is very doable.  The materials will probably run you around $400-500 ($135 for 6566 ply, $165 for epoxy, $33 for FG cloth, $20 for FG tape, $75 for paint, 5$ for fillers, roughly +/- 15%) but you can buy them in increments.  You can get by with cheaper ply and paint, but pay for epoxy.  Try removing the center strip of the sole as recommended earlier directly over the areas where screws penetrate and move forward and back until you find good foam across the enter cell.  If the foam logs don't come out easily, remove more sole.

This is a basic construction diagram of a Carolina Skiff.  There is a cross frame every 6".  I've no issue with the construction technique, but it surprises me that that they are so willing to put screws through the floor.  Any moisture that seeps through will be trapped between those cross frames forever.










Nate


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## HialeahAngler (Dec 18, 2008)

i'm not sure why anyone is telling you to sell your hull. materials for repair will not cost the same as another hull. where are you buying your materials? find the rot, cut it out, refoam, reglass, etc. it's not that hard if you have time. we did it to my first boat, a bowrider, in 1 weekend.


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## logandorn96 (Mar 27, 2011)

yah i figured its pretty easy. but it will take me longer because I'm going to redo my whole boat


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## paint it black (Nov 3, 2007)

Forgive me for preferring to buy new.


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

The estimate I gave in my previous post assumes 2 sheets of 6 mm ply and 1 sheet of 9 mm ply (all meranti 6566) and 3 gallons of epoxy. That should be enough for the entire sole and deck. Exterior luan would be a reasonable substitute for the sole because it doesn't have to bend much and it would be much cheaper than the meranti. That being said, are you sure you have water under the entire sole? If you find good foam forward and aft of the screw holes, you won't have to tear out the entire deck. I guess I am assuming that the screw holes are limited to one area where the console is. I'd be scared to rip up the entire floor if I didn't have to simply because you may have to get under there again some day after you drift in to a jetty or hit a stump and crack a chine. Hopefully not, but shtuff happens.

I kinda got stuck on your first question the other day. I hate it when people do that to me, so let me finish up.

2) Foam: Two part pourable closed cell flotation foam will be the easiest to work with. Pour it in and trim the excess once it sets. I forgot to add that to the estimate.

3&4) Grip Paint: You can add non-skid additive to any paint. Many guys on the board have done it and been very happy. Others use the rattle-can spray webbing and are very happy also. Two part polyurethane deck paints are the gold standard for durability, but most guys who have used the stuff hate it (Firecat has some experience with this if I remember properly). The single part polyurethane paints seem to be the most popular overall (I've used Interlux Brightside and liked it), but others use exterior latex and just touch up as needed. Use the same paint for both the sole and the deck.

5) Screws: I think I've given my two cents already. They are evil.

6&7) Hatches: I don't know anything about hatches. I think FireCat has the most input regarding their installation. Flush fit hatches will take some work.

Hope this helps.

Nate


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