# 1974 SureCast 16'r rebuild:



## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

Just picked up project 16'r. 
1974 hull. This thing is one year older than me!
SureCast. Nothing on the web.
I think the new hull mold owners are Sea&Sport.
I'll have to ask him... They're down in Bradenton.
It's identical. 

I'll get some pics goin' on...


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

Lookie the flat bottom:


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

How come I can only do one attachment... :-[


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

The rear section:


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

One more:


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## Mike_Poczik (Jan 24, 2010)

Yes, I would say that is the mold Sea n Sport is using. I was by there last week. There is a boat dealer in Palm Bay selling their boat under their brand as well. Can't remember the name I stumbled on them just poking around. Keep us posted on your progress.


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

I'll be strippin' her down completely and goin' with composite materials... Maybe even down to the stringers... ;D

Don't do alot of poling here on the WestCoast, so I'm opting a mini-tower. Run and gun type fishin'...
I want, don't know if I'll get, but I want a Honda BF-30. We'll see how that goes over... :-/ Sittin' on a BobsMiniJacker... This thing'll be a real nice time...


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

oops


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

Here's a 2010 16' Sea and Sport:

Same boat eh...


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

Thanks Mike.
I take it you talked to Rocky...
I was going to have one built...
But just stumbled upon this the other day.

I needed a PROJECT.
There's another one on CraigsList right now.
Over in Hudson, I think...

Same hull.
I like the flat bottom, and deep V for cuttin' waves... [smiley=chicken.gif]


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## FSUfisher (Jul 16, 2007)

An old lappy, sweet! I look forward to watching your build progress.


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

After some cold ones last night, I discoverd that this thing has no stringers... That's what they're for... The benches reinforce the hull...
Looks like I'll have to add stringers if I yank the benches out...

Thanks to all fer checkin' me out...


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

Sumthin' like this, minus two feet...   
I don't want a FULL tower.
MINI tower!


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

Awww... My first sander. [smiley=bravo.gif]


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

What am I gonna need to cut into the wood & fiberglass... Will a regular ol SawZall do it with DEMO blade... or should I get some kinda masonary blade...


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## FSUfisher (Jul 16, 2007)

For some reason I would opt for an angle grinder with a cutting wheel. I feel comfortable doing demolition with that setup.


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

> For some reason I would opt for an angle grinder with a cutting wheel. I feel comfortable doing demolition with that setup.


I'm on it.


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

HarborFreight.
Made in China stuff...
But the price is right; ya know...
I reckon if I get through the build with bought tools from there, they'd be worth it...

My respirators not from there though...


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

Let the DEMO begin...


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

The SawZall handled the bizness the best BTW...
Spent 10 blades taking out the rear sections and just a piece outta the front deck...
MUST GET MORE BLADES...
Glass eats 'em up.


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## tedcombs (Mar 12, 2010)

I used metal cutting blades and they worked a lot better than any wood blades i used. Project is looking good


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

RogerThat, SnookUp.
Will try a batch of them next...
Thanks.


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

I gotta start weighin' out my options...

http://www.preforms.com/index.html

http://www.michigancomposites.com/

http://www.coosacomposites.com/nautical.html

Anyone familiar with any of these...


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

Do you watch PawnStars...
Picked up a SawZall in there this morning...
& one of these at the OrangeBigBox store...
Nothing cool like that in my local pawn shop...

The six inch versions's only $5 dolla...

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xg4/R-100088519/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

I'm going to this one a go, and see how it does vs the others...  I've got a couple 18tpi metal blades that I have'nt tried yet aswell...


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

Not too shabby for $60 out the door; if I don't say so myself...


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

oh you've been a baaaaaaa-d boy, Mr.FiberGlass......


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## jimbarn1961 (Aug 2, 2009)

$60 out the door and a Milwaukee no less, U done GOOD 

Now get to work me needs more pics, lookin good so far


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

Yeah. You can work 'em on tools right now.
ALOT of people outta work who didn't need 'em...
Thanks fer stoppin' in.

Here's something called Plascore:

http://www.plascore.com/marine-honeycomb-boat-manufacturing.htm


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

SnookUp! Your right. The metal blades work better than wood eaters... I had to nibble away at the front deck...


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

BooYah!


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

Post-CleanUp:


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

> I gotta start weighin' out my options...
> 
> http://www.preforms.com/index.html
> http://www.michigancomposites.com/
> ...


Yup and the cheapest starts around $150 per sheet and you simply don't need Prisma's.

Gotta ask this though...is there a sole in this boat? Sure looks like it from the trough down the center. Gonna leave it in? Wet foam?

If you want it to look like the pic in post #12 use the pics from the Sears skiff build as a place to gather ideas. Plywood is your best option unless you just like to spend money. One word of caution is that first time builders tend to over-build and if you do you are going to change the dynamics of the boat and it will weigh a ton.

I am guessing that you are in the Tampa area. There is a place in Brandon that carries marine plywood on Causeway Blvd. called Intercity Lumber.


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

> Yup and the cheapest starts around $150 per sheet and you simply don't need Prisma's.
> 
> Gotta ask this though...is there a sole in this boat?  Sure looks like it from the trough down the center.  Gonna leave it in?  Wet foam?
> 
> ...


Greetings DuckNut! [smiley=cheers.gif]
Thanks fer stoppin' in... 
YahMahn. I've been lurkin' the Tampa area fer awhile... Grew up in Brandon actually, and I know right where InterCity is... Thanks.

Sounds like you've done some glass work before...
Lemme ask you this...
How much lighter is the ply vs composite...
Is it worth the extra loot...
Does MarineGrade ply rot...
or just slowly-er
Yeah, I'm all about savin' money, so talk to me...
Do you think I can glass over .50" ply for decking...
or is .75" more realistic...

Yeah it does have a trough down the center...
Why not just leave it there...

Please excuse my periods (...), my question mark key doesn't work! 

Thanks bud. [smiley=usa2.gif]


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

oh. I see he's using MDO for decking...


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

I'll comment after each question below-

How much lighter is the ply vs composite...There is a tradeoff here.  The beginner will use more material than necessary and therefore add additional weight.  It will come in weighing less but for the small boat such as yours even an expert could only shave a few pounds.  The real benefit is in larger projects.

Is it worth the extra loot...No and Yes. Even if done with a few errors you will never do it again in your life.  A 4x8 foam board starts around $150 and up, marine plywood is maybe $50.

Does MarineGrade ply rot...or just slowly-er - yes it will. But it will take many years of being wet. 

Yeah, I'm all about savin' money, so talk to me...see above. Plywood, marine plywood that is, and coat the sides that are not going to be walked on with epoxy.  The areas that will be walked on use 6 or 9oz cloth and cover in epoxy. The glass is there for abrasion resistance.  An alternative to glass is Basalt (stronger, more abrasion resistant and cheaper).  

Do you think I can glass over .50" ply for decking...or is .75" more realistic...Think about this -Let's say you use 3/4 and you will need two of them at roughly 60lbs each.  That is for the deck alone, not counting the supports.  Here is an example of overbuilding.  Think about what dynamic changes will occur to your little skiff if you put more weight at the top of your boat than the hull weighs as it sits now. You need to use a calculator and determine what is really important to you.

Yeah it does have a trough down the center...Why not just leave it there...Pick up that skiff.  If it is heavy the 36 year old foam is wet and needs to come out.  One way to find out is to drill some holes (don't drill through the hull, just the sole) and do some exploring.  Just don't let it rain while the holes are open.  My guess- it is wet.  That trough is there to create a low spot to drain water with floatation on each side.

I have a boat in my yard made completely from composites and you are welcome to come by and check it out - I am in Riverview.  I will be home this weekend.  Send a pm with your number if you want to come by.


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## tedcombs (Mar 12, 2010)

hey not a problem, i was in your shoes about a week ago. I had to completely gut out my boat and start from a bare hull. I just got my stringers in a few days ago so i figure im about a week ahead of you  

What are your plans with the interior of the boat?


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

Thanks fellas.   [smiley=chicken.gif]
I just might take you up on that offer DuckNut.  Thanks.

I initially wanted to turn this into a MINI tower boat, but after looking at the cost of all the excess fabrication, it just may end up a poling skiff like all the others around here...  Thanks again SnookUp.  I'm now feelin' your fiberglassin' pain!   [smiley=carcrash.gif]


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

> What are your plans with the interior of the boat?



I'm a trollin' motor kinda guy.


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

Mid-Ship:


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

Post CleanUp:


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

> What are your plans with the interior of the boat?


I'm thinking CenterConsole. 
The trickiest thing I think will be the livewell and release well... Maybe some under gunnel rod holders...


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## FSUfisher (Jul 16, 2007)

Coming from a guy with a center console, you should try to do a side console or offset console, like on rickmurphy's "new" boat. You'll enjoy the extra room. Just a suggestion!


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## tedcombs (Mar 12, 2010)

I agree with FSU which is hard to do because i live in gainesville and am a Gator  [smiley=1-boxing2.gif]

I had one on my Hewes Redfisher and it was nice to have the room


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

TrimTabs would be a must with a side console eh...
To level out the load...
How much are a set of those...

I'm usually a solo angler, so floorspace is not too much of a concern... But an option, no doubt...


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## bostick29412 (Apr 17, 2009)

When you start building your bulkheads or anything that attaches to the sides of the boat, I'd definitely make mock-ups using a material that's cheap and easy to cut.. I used the blue insulation board.. get the angles/curves just right and transfer the lines to your expensive ply or composite... will save a lot of mistakes and $$


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

> When you start building your bulkheads or anything that attaches to the sides of the boat, I'd definitely make mock-ups using a material that's cheap and easy to cut.. I used the blue insulation board.. get the angles/curves just right and transfer the lines to your expensive ply or composite... will save a lot of mistakes and $$



Need to stock up on some cardboard or sumthin'....
Thanks.
Good Ideer.


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## flyfisheraa573 (Jun 26, 2008)

> > When you start building your bulkheads or anything that attaches to the sides of the boat, I'd definitely make mock-ups using a material that's cheap and easy to cut.. I used the blue insulation board.. get the angles/curves just right and transfer the lines to your expensive ply or composite... will save a lot of mistakes and $$
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Just a little tip...look to see if there is a aluminum or ss sheet supply store in your area...if there is, there is a chance that they use sheets of cardboard to protect their product. you might want to look for a smaller place, a lot of times they are more willing to work with the public than the larger ones. I know this because I work for one...we have 4 x 10 sheets of cardboard...and we sell them for $3 a piece. Just call them up and ask them if they have it and will sell you a few sheets...don't let them gig you though...those things only cost about $1.50 a sheet, if that...we actually pay less than that, but we buy about 20,000 #'s at the time.


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## gheenoe (Dec 27, 2009)

> TrimTabs would be a must with a side console eh...
> To level out the load...
> How much are a set of those...
> 
> I'm usually a solo angler, so floorspace is not too much of a concern...  But an option, no doubt...


If you put your trolling motor battery on the port side it usually balances out and you usually sit closer to the center the boat then the side. Side consoles are the way to go on skiffs.


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

I like an off-center console.
Still allows easy horizontal rod storage under both gunnels,
and the boat can be operated solo by sitting centered
or double, side by side, to balance the hull.
But I always want trim tabs on any boat,
large enough to run open water.


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## tedcombs (Mar 12, 2010)

Just another tip on the cardboard, I make bio diesel so i need a lot of cardboard pieces, I just go to Sams Club and they let me take a few every time I go. Just another option


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

Brilliant ideas everyone.
I'm soakin' it all in... [smiley=1-mmm.gif]
I'll be getting some MarineGrade ply to laminate for my stringers this weekend... FUN FUN FUN


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

Out of curiosity, what would I be cleaning out the epoxy resin pumps after use... I'm sure I'd have to clean them out daily or they'd clog... At $15 a set, I don't want to have to buy those every day...

What other solvents will I need to work the glass...

~Thanks all.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Leave the pumps attached to the jugs until the project is DONE and then throw them away. They will in time clog or drip and you don't get to choose, you just get to clean up the mess if they drip.


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

Pumps? We don' need no stinkin' pumps...
...we got throw away mixing/measuring cups!


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

RogerThat.
That's the stuff I'm gettin'...

What about to wipe down the boat after sanding...


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

Vacuum cleaner and compressed air.
Wear a quality respirator/filter when sanding and cleaning up.

No solvents unless you are going to paint,
in which case follow the instructions on the label.
Epoxy reacts badly with acetone!


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

It's about to get messy 'round here! [smiley=jackson.gif]


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

Tell me about it.
Almost a year and a half after finishing my build
and I'm still finding dust in the garage from all the sanding.

;D


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

Denatured Alcohols used to clean epoxied products...

http://www.fiberglassservices.com/pdfs/spring_summer_2009_catalog.pdf


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

I used very little in the way of solvents to clean equipment.
Disposable gloves kept my hands clean, and drips and spills
were wiped away using old bath towels that had been cut into
small sections. Cheap chip brushes and small smooth finish paint rollers
are used to apply epoxy and then thrown away after use.
Plastic tools, knives and scissors are wiped clean with scraps of
the old bath towels, then a final wipe with an acetone or alcohol damped rag.
No solvents needed on the MAS epoxy, it's a no-blush epoxy.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

TBay...

Most if not all solvents are recycled petroleum products and even though acetone, xylene appear to be crystal clear they can leave behind oily residue and that is not good. 

A while ago I gave Brett a top secret project that he has not done yet and you are about to do what I wanted him to do so we can use you as a "pictorial instruction manual" and save you huge amounts of time and benefit the community as well.

Sorry Brett I just had to bust your chops. I figured he is a great candidate because he has a camera and he lives near me.


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

Let 'er rip DN, I haven't had a project yet I could use it on.
It's your trick anyways so get 'er done!

;D


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

I'm corn-fuzzd.
[smiley=1-smack-myself.gif]
What's the trick... I musta missed sumthin'.
That don't suprise me. [smiley=doh1.gif]


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

InterCity lumber only had a half sheet of what I wanted... Took it to my buddies 'ol mans house, and had him rip it down into 3 inch strips...
This is the beginning of the stringer action:


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

Epoxy Resin dot com:


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

Two test strips:


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

oh my.
the glass is everywhere.


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## tedcombs (Mar 12, 2010)

yea I  feel as if I have become immune to fiberglass and itching lately  

What size fiberglass are you using? Mat or cloth?


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

I haven't bought any yet.
These practice pieces were given to me by a friend...
Probably getting that woven stuff right...
What're my options...


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

> What're my options...


Only about 400 choices.

Use biaxal tape for attaching stringers to hull. 6 or 9oz
Use cloth tape on seams where you will see them.
Use cloth and laminate to the tops of the platforms and sole. 6 or 9oz


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## tedcombs (Mar 12, 2010)

A question to you DuckNut, is there any time that you recommend chopped strand mat?


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

What's the deal with the chopped strand mat anyway...
Is it just cheap product...
I heard 'sandwich'ing it with woven on the outside layer was OK...


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

What's the deal with the rollers....
How do you keep them clean from the epoxy resin...
One $12 roller down. Ready to try #2! 

Do I need to soak it in something after every use...

HELP!

My roller don't roll anymore! It's a smearer!


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

Being the 'frugal' person I am... I've been talked into goin' with MarineGrade ply... I reckon they've been buildin' 'em that aways for many, many years now... If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Besides, this boats over 35years old, and the wood was still good when I ripped into it... I just want a flats boat layout...

Little dibble dabs of Liquid Nails held the wood together quite well... Three hours and this this was surprisingly solid...


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

I gotta find something to use this free material on...


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## tedcombs (Mar 12, 2010)

looks good.... What is it that you are making? lol


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

That's a shoe rack.
Naw. JustKiddin'.
It's the stringer. or beginning of the stringer...
I'll just lay it in the boat when ready on a bed of epoxy and cabasil...  Once in the boat, I'll lay more glass on it to bond it with the hull tying it all in...


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

Those stakes aren't for the boat BTW.
Their for a slab I'm pourin' out back...


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

My infatuation with livebait will require me to have atleast one livewell onboard. I used a old cooler I had layin' around... 
The first thing I had to do was remove the lid hardware to remove the lid...


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

This is what I used for the mold release... I'm sure there are BETTER products, but this was what I had layin' around.... It's got CarnubaWax in it, so that's the ticket...


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

I got the 'ol PolyLite40 wax'd down, then wiped clean...


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

Fill er Up.


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

Three hours later:


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

Naturally, I'll gel coat it after sandin' er down before installin' into the stringer & bulkhead... I need a better mold or make one for the release well I want in the aft of the boat... This one will go towards the bow, if not in the casting deck...


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

Hmm.. I just had a brilliant idea...

How would I go about insulating this with foam, and relaying more glass to make this a below deck insulated cooler slash livewell...

[smiley=dancing-smilie.gif]

Whaddyathink.


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

I wonder if spray foam will adhere to it...


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

I'm gettin' sporty:


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

Yep, that's a 5gal bucket.
Ought to give me a 3gal livewell...


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

....and then there was one!


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

Needs more practice, although I'll give you an "E" for effort... 

Get the air out of your layups. Bubbles in the fiberglass mean weak spots.
That ribbed metal roller has to be worked on every bit of the layup.
Work all the air out, make sure you use enough resin to wet the glass completely.
Other than that, keep trying things out. It's the best way to learn.


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

oh yeah.
without a doubt.

I'm no fiberglasser. That's fer sure.
I'm a rookie. I suppose some layerage, and some gelcoat should seal the deal... Nobodies starin' in the livewell all day anyways... 
Well, they may after seein' the cool l.e.d. livewell lights I've got goin' on...

I've got a assortment of other l.e.d. lighting for undergunnel lighting, and under poling platform lighting... Gettin' Sporty!


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## tedcombs (Mar 12, 2010)

Dang TB looks like you are ready to go. Hows the progress on the stringers coming along?


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

It's coming along.
I haven't been able to do anymore glasswork until today... My one and only roller finally jammed.

*NOTE TO SELF*

Self..... Don't let the roller jam again!
$12ea IS NOT cheap.


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

Also picked up some gelcoat and mold release for future use....


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

Tools of the trade:


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## Gramps (Nov 1, 2007)

I hate to be the bearer of bad news TB, but epoxy and poly/vinylester resins do not stick well to each other. Let me clarify, epoxy will stick to poly/vinyl but not the other way around. If you intended to put the gel coat into a mold and then layup with epoxy & glass, I'm afraid it won't work.


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

I have no poly resin.


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## makin moves (Mar 20, 2010)

hey tbayray the comany that provides all the fiberglass material to ta mahoneys is in st pete right on 19 it may save you some money to make the quick trip across the bridge and buy direct. by the way they have everything!!!!


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

> hey tbayray the comany that provides all the fiberglass material to ta mahoneys is in st pete right on 19 it may save you some money to make the quick trip across the bridge and buy direct. by the way they have everything!!!!




Yep. Thanks bud.
I literally live 10min from Mahoneys.
I'm in N.Brandon, real close to MLK.
A trip to St.Pete could take me a round trip of almost 2hrs... 
The 'ol adage applies, Time IS Money.
When I'm out there again, I'm definatley stoppin' in though... I'm out there all the time.... Thanks again.


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

> I hate to be the bearer of bad news TB, but epoxy and poly/vinylester resins do not stick well to each other.  Let me clarify, epoxy will stick to poly/vinyl but not the other way around.  If you intended to put the gel coat into a mold and then layup with epoxy & glass, I'm afraid it won't work.


I specifically asked them at MaHoneys if I could use this with epoxy resins, and they agreed... I don't think this gelcoat is polyester or polyvinyl or whatever...

This gelcoat kit came with a hardener too...
In a vial...


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

...another angle:


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

...yet one more angle:


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## Gramps (Nov 1, 2007)

N/m what I said TBRay, http://westsystem.com/ss/polyester-over-epoxy/ They say it works    Two professional outfits know more than I do!

That gel coat is polyester though; two key tips are it uses a catalyst and says "styrene" on the back of the can.


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

maybe it would be wiser, just for shitz and gigglez just to buy a can of poly resin for my molds... 
I totally understand what your sayin'...
But these jokers at MaHoneys COULD very well be wrong... I should call the company tommorrow, or email them to get a definate on this product, ya know...

I appreciate everyone's comments and perils of wisdom. I soak it all in. Believe me.
Thanks again.

~Ray.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Ray-

Give me a call and I will tell you how to do it then you can post your results.


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

Been a little busy out back workin' on sidewalk and slab... Bear with me, I'll be back on on the boat hot and heavy here, shortly...


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

FINALLY.

7 yards.


[smiley=hammer.gif]


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## FSUfisher (Jul 16, 2007)

Nice job. Did you incorporate any kind of footer into the patio? Seven yards is quite a bit for a little household project!


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

> Nice job. Did you incorporate any kind of footer into the patio? Seven yards is quite a bit for a little household project!


ohyeah. yessir.
bell footer around the slab...
fiber 3000 psi crete too...
'the good stuff'

Concrete, just like everything else these days, has come down in price dramatically... Nows the time if you need it done!


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## tedcombs (Mar 12, 2010)

any new progress lately?


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

Zero progress. [smiley=1-crazy-eyes.gif]
I'll be on it this week though...
Thanks fer askin'...


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

What am I gonna need to eat into the material to get to the glass... I think the inside of this boat was gel coated or something, and it's chipping away in alot of spots... To get the the glass, I've gotta get at all that crap-ola' first...
My 40grit on my pneumatic getup ain't gonna do it.
I was grindin' away for 45min and only got into a 1sqft section. That ain't gonna cut it... 
Not to mention my little 13gal compressor never quit runnin' during that time... I think I need some thing for my 4" grinder...
Are those slap pads or whatever they're called, what I need...

Thanks.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Harbor Freight electrical grinder - $35 
Flexible backing pad from Lowe's - $12
Handfull of grinding disks - $20
Tyvek suit - $15

Without wearing suit - itching is priceless!


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

I'm on it.


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

This is what I seen at HD:

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51D2AXNQGEL._SL500_AA300_.jpg


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

I may need to upgrade my grinder to a variable speed one . One with a trigger vs the on off switch like on my current one... I dunno, lemme go get the discs and gear before I get a new grinder eh!

~Thanks.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Get the ones what come in a five pack and a backing plate. The flapper disks are ok, but you will chow through them and they are far more expensive than the flat ones.

As for your pneumatic grinder...it is not your grinder, it is your compressor. Too small and not enough CFM. Buy a cheap electric one.


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

Yep. Thanks buddy.
I knew the compressor was an issue the first 15min...
It ran nonstop.

I'm going to HAVE TO upgrade my electric grinder...
I've got ALOT of grindin' to do.
Might as well get a good one...

This HarborFreight one makes me REAL nervous.
It just doesn't sound right.
PLUS, the trigger on a variable speed one is THE TICKET.
I guarantee 70% of the work on this boat project is grinding and sanding...
Lotsa Lotsa of it comin' my way!


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## Capt._A_J (Mar 5, 2009)

This is a transformation which i must witness! If you can pull this off to result as the vessel in water w/ tower & storage..then quit your day job!


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

Thanks fer stoppin' in AJAX.
No tower. 
I'm goin' with a poling platform'd CC.
A tower on this could be too top heavy for my likin'.
I wanted to at first, but after cipherin' things out, I've backed outta that IDEER. 
StayTuned.


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

Finally picked up a new electric grinder...


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

It's just been too dog-gone hot outside to get anything done... I got a little nibbled away for a few hours this past weekend...
This is a VERY time consuming project...
I wouldn't have imagined such work... ITCHY work!


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## Un-shore (Sep 27, 2007)

Are you thinking about grinding out all the interior gel coat?


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

Yes, have already started...
I'm down to the pinkish material and can see threads...
Probably shot on with chopped stuff right...


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## jrod0785 (Aug 26, 2009)

I dont think you need to take out the original gelcoat. The only place you want to take it down to the glass, is where you will be glassing at....


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## floridanative1028 (May 30, 2009)

> I dont think you need to take out the original gelcoat. The only place you want to take it down to the glass, is where you will be glassing at....


x2


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## [email protected] (Nov 18, 2010)

So.. Hows the project comming along? I just picked up a 16' Dory by SteigerCraft with similar lines and will be adding some customizations when ever weather permits (I am in RI)
Your boat looks good so far..


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

It hasn't been to be honest...
I was on unemployment when I started this, and have since started working again, only to be laid off again just recently, so... the work just may resume VERY soon... 
Thanks fer inquirin'. 

~Ray.


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

Took me what seemed like an hour to blow out all the doggone acorns and leaves outta her today...   
And they're still not all out!  
I got germinated Laurel oak, and LiveOak seedlings if anyone wants them!   ;D


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## tbayray (Sep 18, 2008)

I got the floor area for the batteries resin'd in... I need more Cabasil or Aerosil, whatever it's called... 
I gotta do something about these leaves...
They just keep fallin'...
This years bad.
I think the trees completely defoliated...

Maybe a tarp rigged on a pvc frame or sumthin'...


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