# cork butt needs to be replaced - questions



## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

Any competent rodcrafter can do the job, but.... If you have anyone other than the original maker do the repair - there goes your warranty....

Aren't fly rods fun?


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## MSG (Jan 11, 2010)

any suggestions in Miami - any idea how much it should run?


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## MSG (Jan 11, 2010)

http://www.flyshack.com/DisplayItem.aspx?ItemID=103412&src=froogle&gclid=CMXD6764pNQCFQgHhgod3S0PNw

is this all I need - appears so. I guess I just remove the old and then adhesive the new on.? Even I can do that - any ideas on suggested adhesive


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## trucha del mar (Apr 1, 2016)

If all that happened is that the fighting butt fell off, then just buy a new one that is similar to the old one. With fairly coarse sandpaper (80 grit or so), get as much of the old epoxy off the rod butt as you can. Once you have the old epoxy off, figure out how much you need to ream out of the new butt. If you have an actual handle reamer, this would be ideal...if not, you can use a rat tail file or just wrap a piece of very coarse (36 grit) sandpaper around a dowel and ream it out that way. Go fairly slow and keep testing for fit - you want the new cork to fit fairly tightly, but not so tight that you have to force it on and that you might split the new cork. Once you have it where it needs to be, coat the inside of the new fighting butt with 30 minute epoxy and slide it over the butt of the rod. Easy peasy.


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## trucha del mar (Apr 1, 2016)

trucha del mar said:


> If all that happened is that the fighting butt fell off, then just buy a new one that is similar to the old one. With fairly coarse sandpaper (80 grit or so), get as much of the old epoxy off the rod butt as you can. Once you have the old epoxy off, figure out how much you need to ream out of the new butt. If you have an actual handle reamer, this would be ideal...if not, you can use a rat tail file or just wrap a piece of very coarse (36 grit) sandpaper around a dowel and ream it out that way. Go fairly slow and keep testing for fit - you want the new cork to fit fairly tightly, but not so tight that you have to force it on and that you might split the new cork. Once you have it where it needs to be, coat the inside of the new fighting butt with 30 minute epoxy and slide it over the butt of the rod. Easy peasy.


Also, be ready with a denatured alcohol(DNA)-soaked paper towel or rag to clean up any epoxy that pushes out when you slide the new fighting butt on. Also a good idea to wipe everything that has been sanded or reamed with DNA to remove dust and residue before new epoxy is applied.


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## MSG (Jan 11, 2010)

Thx for the info- sounds like even i can do it


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## 994 (Apr 14, 2008)

Wrap the last inch of the butt and reel seat with masking tape before you apply epoxy. Makes clean up a breeze. Also, slowly twist the butt into place to make sure the whole blank is coated with epoxy to avoid failure down the road.


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## coconutgroves (Sep 23, 2013)

Send it back to Loomis. They are owned by Shimano and just send out a new rod. At least that is my experience sending two back - I got brand new rods with plastic on the corks.


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## Guest (Jun 6, 2017)

TFO used to sell a package of 3 foam caps to slip on the end of most any rod for a quick fix. As long as it isn't the entire cork grip, which takes removal of stripping guides & snake guides to attach a new tapered cork grip slid down over the graphite shaft into place & then more thread wraps putting guides back on plus .......


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## MSG (Jan 11, 2010)

I don't know why I thought this was so hard - I just called loomis and they are sending me one for no charge. They didn't even ask how old it was,and mine is 3 years old and out of warranty. By the way, I just snapped my 10 wt asquith, sent it back to them and 2 days later a new one was on its way - no charge. Loomis customer service has been great.


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