# rebuilding my 1st skiff for son and grandson



## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Very cool, looking forward to photos and the refurb!


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

So here it is when we first brought it home from the farm in Kissimmee. Kris was very excited about the upcoming project. Sorry about the bad pic, it's a phone pic of an old polariod.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

after a lot of hard work on the boat and the trailer (he helped me every weekend), it was ready to go fishing. White hull with grey interior and grey on top of the gunnels. 2 part urethane paint.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

This is the fish that got my son hooked on fishing. He did a great job getting it in the boat with his dad going nuts. After this fish he wanted to go every weekend.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

My older son, whom I gave the boat to years ago repainted it silver and here it is back at my house after much neglect.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

love the antique motorguide (still works!). Have a Riptide 55 which I took off my yellow boat that will be going on.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

my grandson stripping out the interior. This will end up being his 1st boat.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)




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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

transom needs a little work  We media blasted the corroded spots.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

after stripping the hull we decided to focus on the trailer which had a lot of rust. Sandblasted it in my back yard, treated it with an ospho like product and put on 2 coats of ZRC Galvalite. After that cured my son sprayed it with a 2 part epoxy primer and put on 2 coats of white 2 part urethane. He then rolled 2 coats of rubber bed liner on all contact areas where things would be bolted on.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

we've also been going over the motor which hasn't run in a while. I just bought a new compression gauge and we got, top to bottom 122, 122, 120, 120.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

Unfortunately had some intermittent starting problems we traced to the harness and found a corroded mess. Ordered a new replacement from CDI Engineering.


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## Jim Lenfest (Jul 20, 2016)

Just a thought from a guy who hates replacing rotten wood. I would consider laying up a piece of fiberglass about 3/4 of an inch thick, cutting it to shape and using that instead of plywood. I have recently discovered that fiberglass adheres very well to FRP board. (fiberglass reinforced board) I sand it to roughen it and then clean it with acetone, then lay it on a flat surface and lay alternating layers of matt and structural about 5 layers at a time. One could probably do ten no problem, but I have been fearful it will curve from the glass setting and I have remained at 5 thus far. 

A project I am looking forward to is building a small overnight house on my 17' MFG and glassing it with the five layers for a nice rot proof overnight house. The FRP board has a nice texture and color pigment that I will leave exposed on the inside. The frame if wood, I will simply paint or varnish, or I may use fiberglass reinforced vinyl downspout for the framing. Again, I hate replacing things twice in one lifetime. For an insulated house, I have discovered that aluminum faced Styrofoam like Celotex, can be used, but needs to be sealed with masking tape at the edges as the resin melts the foam when the foam is directly exposed to it. I would carefully masking the outside, waxing the boat mating area, glass it in place, then remove once solid and put another 3 layers inside to completely protect the foam. Again, I would wax with release wax, the part of the boat where it attached, so that the house would be removable. Bolt on, bolt off, like a truck cap.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

does anyone recognize the brand of this old trailer?


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## tomahawk (Mar 9, 2012)

Very cool project keeping it a family boat and all!

I refurbed a Gheenoe and gave it to my son recently, very rewarding.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

Jim Lenfest said:


> Just a thought from a guy who hates replacing rotten wood. I would consider laying up a piece of fiberglass about 3/4 of an inch thick, cutting it to shape and using that instead of plywood. I have recently discovered that fiberglass adheres very well to FRP board. (fiberglass reinforced board) I sand it to roughen it and then clean it with acetone, then lay it on a flat surface and lay alternating layers of matt and structural about 5 layers at a time. One could probably do ten no problem, but I have been fearful it will curve from the glass setting and I have remained at 5 thus far.
> 
> A project I am looking forward to is building a small overnight house on my 17' MFG and glassing it with the five layers for a nice rot proof overnight house. The FRP board has a nice texture and color pigment that I will leave exposed on the inside. The frame if wood, I will simply paint or varnish, or I may use fiberglass reinforced vinyl downspout for the framing. Again, I hate replacing things twice in one lifetime. For an insulated house, I have discovered that aluminum faced Styrofoam like Celotex, can be used, but needs to be sealed with masking tape at the edges as the resin melts the foam when the foam is directly exposed to it. I would carefully masking the outside, waxing the boat mating area, glass it in place, then remove once solid and put another 3 layers inside to completely protect the foam. Again, I would wax with release wax, the part of the boat where it attached, so that the house would be removable. Bolt on, bolt off, like a truck cap.


Jim, I hear ya but I'm not a fiberglass guy at all. Using marine plywood and sealing both sides and all edges actually lasts many years if the boat is kept covered and drained. Its when the boat fills with leaves, plugs up the drain and sits full of water that problems occur.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

tomahawk said:


> Very cool project keeping it a family boat and all!
> 
> I refurbed a Gheenoe and gave it to my son recently, very rewarding.


Thanks. It is pretty fun to get 3 generations involved in the work and in using the boat after.


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## LowHydrogen (Dec 31, 2015)

Very cool project, that boat looks tough! That boat and rebuild will be remembered by your family for many years.


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## Jim Lenfest (Jul 20, 2016)

devrep said:


> Jim, I hear ya but I'm not a fiberglass guy at all. Using marine plywood and sealing both sides and all edges actually lasts many years if the boat is kept covered and drained. Its when the boat fills with leaves, plugs up the drain and sits full of water that problems occur.


yes, you are describing my boats, lol. Sometimes even 3" trees growing up through the trailers that need to be cut before I can even pull them out to work on them. A friend once call me "Iron Man", because he said I have too many irons in the fire! Another said I should charge admittance to the property because it was like a museum. I'm not proud, hoping to get things done up and sold off someday before I die. Everything is worthless in the current state.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

getting the interior bottom ready for sealing with Gluvit.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)




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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

Gluvit completed.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)




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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

.


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

I can't tell if it's wood or aluminium


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

Jim Lenfest said:


> Just a thought from a guy who hates replacing rotten wood.


The reason the wood rots is because of the resin used. Cheap polyester resin is very water resistant, but not water proof, and should not be used over wood. If you use epoxy resin the wood should nearly last a lifetime. 

Cool project, I've ofte thought of redoing an old aluminum hull like that.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

Last time I ran this skiff I clocked 42 mph on a handheld gps I had at the time.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

Back to the somewhat perforated transom. so I had a big pc of 1/8" aluminum saved in my shed, not quite big enough but will add some pieces and blend it in. transom is now 1/4" of aluminum.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

Made all new deck pieces out of marine ply. Wetted them in with epoxy and then coated with zylene based concrete stain.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

Same with the new transom, 2 layers 3/4" marine ply, bonded together with thickened epoxy, wetted in with epoxy and will be painted with the hull when we spray it, probably this weekend.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

anyone who has a 70's or 80's merc knows that these are unobtanium.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

transom done and splash well back in.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

finally got the outside sprayed. It's a little flashy but there it is.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Is that the red left over from the Silverking?


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

Ha, no the SilverKing is original gelcoat. StarCraft was painted with a 2 part urethane. Big difference in the colors actually, SK is an red/orange.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

Paint the inside next, install the decks and start rigging.


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## robt (Jul 21, 2013)

This is a fantastic thread, love to hear these generational stories


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

thanks, its been fun so far.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)




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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

The black bottom is bedliner, another layer of defense against leaks. Gluvit on the inside, bedliner on the outside.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)




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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)




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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

thats a great looking project there. i agree with the red being a little loud, but man she sure is pretty. great work


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

well the motor has been a big hold up, 1970 Merc 50 4 cylinder. Cannot get it to run again. redid the carbs, fuel pump, everything. acts like it has a massive air leak. So, ran into a somewhat newer model with a tiller, new enough to not have the pain in the ass distributer/electrical system of the old model. Running motor with good compression (140, 140, 135, 135) but it also has problems, when checking it out noticed the bottom 2 plugs were getting some water so picked it up at a reasonable price. Known problem with these when they get old is they pull water up the driveshaft thru a bad seal and then it gets thru the gasket under the powerhead.

After going thru it decided to do a full overhaul.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)




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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)




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## Jim Lenfest (Jul 20, 2016)

devrep said:


> well the motor has been a big hold up, 1970 Merc 50 4 cylinder. Cannot get it to run again. redid the carbs, fuel pump, everything. acts like it has a massive air leak. So, ran into a somewhat newer model with a tiller, new enough to not have the pain in the ass distributer/electrical system of the old model. Running motor with good compression (140, 140, 135, 135) but it also has problems, when checking it out noticed the bottom 2 plugs were getting some water so picked it up at a reasonable price. Known problem with these when they get old is they pull water up the driveshaft thru a bad seal and then it gets thru the gasket under the powerhead.
> 
> After going thru it decided to do a full overhaul.


I am going to say that another route for water to enter those cylinders is through the cover on the side of the engine. Oftentimes a motor is overheated and it breaks the seal at that cover gasket allowing water to enter a cylinder. I have this on good authority from working on Mercury motors with a very experienced Master Mercury technician. Also, sometimes they leak a little around a spark plug causing a miss fire. He suggests a quick fix, changing that plug, cleaning and sanding the area very good, and filling in around the plug with black permatex silicone. He does not choose the black for the color match, he chooses it because it seems to have the best adhesive strength of all the types. Later, say off season, if one desires, they can still remove the silicone and pull the cover for a new gasket. Again, this is likely do to overheating at one time. Most motors we service are salt water commercial fishing use, and difficult to take apart without twisting off bolts, drilling and tapping etc. We therefore oftentimes opt for the quick fix that works, to get a guy up and running asap rather than attempt to dismantle an older motor that could possibly be destroyed just by trying to take it apart.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

Jim, I agree with you 100%. I changed the gasket on the plate around the spark plugs and was still getting cream on the 2 bottom plugs. When we pulled the power head I took off the cover on the exhaust side and it was hard to tell if it was leaking there or not. The motor was overheated as the top piston and rings are scratched up. The cylinder wall looks good though.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

this motor was rebuilt at one time, probably not long ago as it is immaculate, has no corrosion in the water jackets and has aftermarket 2 ring pistons.


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## Jim Lenfest (Jul 20, 2016)

devrep said:


> Jim, I agree with you 100%. I changed the gasket on the plate around the spark plugs and was still getting cream on the 2 bottom plugs. When we pulled the power head I took off the cover on the exhaust side and it was hard to tell if it was leaking there or not. The motor was overheated as the top piston and rings are scratched up. The cylinder wall looks good though.


If that cream is external around the plug boot area, then I would check that gasket again, maybe adding some black silicone to the gasket if it is easy to remove and a fresh water engine. If it is internal, then I am still thinking that side plate is leaking and again a thin layer of black permatex on that gasket and look hard for defects, cracks or warp. The only other thing is maybe a crack or hole leading from a water route to the crank area. It could possibly be the lower seal you mentioned earlier, however that would likely cause the engine to run poorly on the lower cylinder but unlikely the second cylinder up as it has a seal between the two, again leading me to that cover plate. 
An old Mercury dealer once told me that on some models that were run in a lot of sand, they would sand blast a hole from the water channel into the crank area at an internal corner within the engine. The problem was later corrected by mercury by making those internal walls thicker. If you cannot fix it or find it and it runs good, I suggest using it often, choking it to turn it off to charge the cylinders with oil, and on the last run of the season pull the plugs, squirt in two stroke oil, crank a few times by hand with key off and it should be fine in the spring to go again. When it finally dies, look for another old cheap one.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

hmmm


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## Jim Lenfest (Jul 20, 2016)

I hate it when they look like that. Well, it is a good time of year to be looking like this.


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

You act like you know what your doing. So new cylinders and other parts look like what you need. Or find a used tiller


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

2 stroke, very few moving parts. I have ball hones and precision measuring tools from rebuilding 2 stroke dirt bike engines for decades. Piece of cake. If it was a 4 stroke it would be a different story. I have the other engine, will dismantle Saturday and see if we can use the pistons. New rings, gasket set and rod bearings if they don't mic out.


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

When I was 17 I rebuilt my 57 Chevy engine. We bored out the cylinders, added over size pistons. New gaskets, plugs, carb repair
Sounds like your on the right path


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

so this powerhead had been over heated. Found pieces of rubber impeller in several water passages and scoring of the pistons and cylinder walls. 2 of 4 pistons had rings that were stuck.

Had the block bored .020 over and picked up a rebuild kit.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

Kit has full gasket set, coated pistons, rings, wrist pins, circlips, crank bearings, rod bearings (both ends), new rod bolts.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

complete disassembly of this motor. Every gasket, seal and rubber piece will be replaced.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

Amazing how many parts are still available NOS for these motors, and how reasonable the parts prices are. Many parts listed as NLA by Mercury were easily found on ebay, new in the original bags.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

Powerhead box O goodies


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

Exhaust plate


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

driveshaft housing (mid section)


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

lower unit


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

I even found this, 40 some years old, new in the bag. 14 bucks on ebay.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

this weekend we'll be putting the powerhead back together. I love the smell of a 2 stroke in the morning as the sun comes up.


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

devrep said:


> I even found this, 40 some years old, new in the bag. 14 bucks on ebay.


Is that an espresso machine or a motor part that I'm not familiar with


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

crank rebuilt, all new bearings and seals, new pistons and rings.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)




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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)




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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

brand new 1970's powerhead.


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Your a better man than I. Tell us if it cranks


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

of course it'll crank. Will be weeks though as we have to prep, paint and rebuild all the other parts of the motor before we can put the powerhead on. Will not make much progress next weekend cause I gotta fish. been about 3 weeks.


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## Jim Lenfest (Jul 20, 2016)

devrep said:


> brand new 1970's powerhead.


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## Jim Lenfest (Jul 20, 2016)

Watching your progress, looking good. I was thinking your motor was newer than you were thinking because it has electronic ignition. I finally called a good friend and former Mercury dealer to see what year Mercury switched from distributor to electronic ignition. His reply was 1977. My 50hp was 1982 and electronic, thinking it was about 1980 as I had seen very few older than mine with electronic ignition. Also, it is possible you have a newer powerhead on an older lower unit if your serial number is coming up older than 1977?


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## Jim Lenfest (Jul 20, 2016)

permitchaser said:


> Is that an espresso machine or a motor part that I'm not familiar with


looks like the sound dampening that lines the metal engine jacket. Mine, a 1982 50hp, this was omitted, I suppose to cut costs.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

Jim Lenfest said:


> Watching your progress, looking good. I was thinking your motor was newer than you were thinking because it has electronic ignition. I finally called a good friend and former Mercury dealer to see what year Mercury switched from distributor to electronic ignition. His reply was 1977. My 50hp was 1982 and electronic, thinking it was about 1980 as I had seen very few older than mine with electronic ignition. Also, it is possible you have a newer powerhead on an older lower unit if your serial number is coming up older than 1977?


Jim, we started with my old 1970 Model 500 that was in the family for the last 25 years or so. We were going to resurrect it but found that the block was seriously corroded and packed with debris. Haven't figured that out yet as I always flush my engines out. Any way I picked up a running model 500 cheap as it had a few issues and that is the engine we rebuilt. It has a serial number from 1976 but when I ran the part number from the block I came up with 1982. It is possible that someone put on a rebuilt powerhead from 82 and then fried it but I just don't know. I have seen pictures of other 76 motors with the coil packs instead of having a distributer. All I know is that the coil pack motors are a hell of a lot easier to dial in than the distributer models. For this build we are also using a few parts off the old 1970 (cowling, faceplate, top cover, bracket and swivel) so this may be the all time frankenbuild


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

Jim Lenfest said:


> looks like the sound dampening that lines the metal engine jacket. Mine, a 1982 50hp, this was omitted, I suppose to cut costs.


I think he was joking about the espresso machine in the background.


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## Jim Lenfest (Jul 20, 2016)

devrep said:


> Jim, we started with my old 1970 Model 500 that was in the family for the last 25 years or so. We were going to resurrect it but found that the block was seriously corroded and packed with debris. Haven't figured that out yet as I always flush my engines out. Any way I picked up a running model 500 cheap as it had a few issues and that is the engine we rebuilt. It has a serial number from 1976 but when I ran the part number from the block I came up with 1982. It is possible that someone put on a rebuilt powerhead from 82 and then fried it but I just don't know. I have seen pictures of other 76 motors with the coil packs instead of having a distributer. All I know is that the coil pack motors are a hell of a lot easier to dial in than the distributer models. For this build we are also using a few parts off the old 1970 (cowling, faceplate, top cover, bracket and swivel) so this may be the all time frankenbuild


 It makes sense now, because I also knew that the newer motors had a plastic face plate and I could clearly see from the pictures yours is aluminum. Secondly, Thunderbolt ignition refers to the distributor type ignition. The logo may have crossed over a few years, but was eventually dropped from the cowl on the newer style. (not that 1982 is new, by any means, lol) As a point of interest, my friend Kraig, believes that if you change the end cap on the crank, to hold the trigger, then one can convert the older motors with distributors to the newer electronic style. But he would not say for sure, but just thinking that would do it, plus add the proper coils, stator and flywheel, etc, for the upgrade. The reason he mentioned this is because to his knowledge they never did convert over the 135 or 150hp tower of power because that is about the time they introduced the V-6's and thinking if one did do this, they would have the old 150hp with the electronic ignition.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

Jim Lenfest said:


> It makes sense now, because I also knew that the newer motors had a plastic face plate and I could clearly see from the pictures yours is aluminum. Secondly, Thunderbolt ignition refers to the distributor type ignition. The logo may have crossed over a few years, but was eventually dropped from the cowl on the newer style. (not that 1982 is new, by any means, lol) As a point of interest, my friend Kraig, believes that if you change the end cap on the crank, to hold the trigger, then one can convert the older motors with distributors to the newer electronic style. But he would not say for sure, but just thinking that would do it, plus add the proper coils, stator and flywheel, etc, for the upgrade. The reason he mentioned this is because to his knowledge they never did convert over the 135 or 150hp tower of power because that is about the time they introduced the V-6's and thinking if one did do this, they would have the old 150hp with the electronic ignition.


That's a possibility but the older blocks had castings to hold the distributer and are lacking castings to hold parts needed for the coil pack system. It would be difficult at best.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

Finished all the prep for painting today but too windy to paint (my paint booth is my yard).


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)




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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

everything treated with aluminum conditioner, ready to prime.


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## Mike C (Feb 27, 2017)

devrep said:


> I even found this, 40 some years old, new in the bag. 14 bucks on ebay.
> 
> Hey,
> I've got that same espresso maker


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

paint day...3 coats of 2 part epoxy primer to start.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

Topcoat, single stage polyurethane. 2 coats.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)




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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)




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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)




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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)




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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

thought I'd update,


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)




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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)




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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)




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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)




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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)




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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)




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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)




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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)




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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)




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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)




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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

console looks orange but its the same red as on the hull. A little gaudy but the only paint we had left. Had to rebuild it as the wood backing in the dash was rotted out and we had to patch all the old holes from tach, gauges, etc.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

thought I would wrap this up with a few pics of the finished product. My son put the 1st redfish in the boat last weekend, a 25 incher.


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## Jim Lenfest (Jul 20, 2016)

The whole project looks great, but that Merc, knowing the year, is amazing. Pictures came out really great. I just love the old style wrap around cowls as opposed to the new one piece plastic/fiberglass ones. They make the motors look so much smaller. That was the manufacturers original thought of the black paint, to make the motors appear smaller especially at a distance. It was good advertisement for Mercury when it looked like their small motor was out running the competitions large one. I also remember when dad went from an old 33hp Evinrude to a new 50hp Mercury it cost about $850 new at the time. Guessing I was about 9 or 10 which means it was about 1971 or 72. With the Evinrude we were burning one 6 gallon tank per day to go clamming. With the new Merc, we dropped to exactly 50%. We then could do it on 3 gallons or 2 days clamming with 6 gallons fuel. We later compared and raced a friends similar sized boat with a V4 50HP Evinrude. the boats ran tie as to speed, but the Mercury burned 1/2 the fuel. We literally ran wide open throttle a full 6 gallons as our friend burned 12 gallons at his WOT and in all that running, there was not literally a boat length separating us.


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## tomahawk (Mar 9, 2012)

That turned out great. Awesome job!


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

wow, photobucket really ef'd up my build thread. I just spent the last hour or more putting back all the photos they deleted. bastards.


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Get away from photobucket. Just upload your photos

Your boys are going have some fun


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

yeah these were all uploaded to MS. I don't use photobutt anymore.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Awesome work!


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## makin moves (Mar 20, 2010)

Looks great! Along with those Cr's in the background.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

yeah, love the old CR 2 strokes. I have a 94 CR500R engine in an 03 CR125R aluminum frame, an 03 CR125R with fully modded engine (my grandson's now) and a 95 CR250R with fully modded and overbored (265CC) engine by Eric Gorr.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)




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## makin moves (Mar 20, 2010)

devrep said:


> View attachment 25726
> View attachment 25727
> View attachment 25728


Here is my last one. Sold it and think about it every day! When my little one grows up ill pick up another one. I have 2 50's for my son and he is only 13 months old.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

nice. I started my grandson on a JR50 when he turned 3. His mom wasn't too thrilled.


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## makin moves (Mar 20, 2010)

Did you do the 500 swap or buy it done. That bike must be a blast to ride! Is 03 125 frame the same as the 250? Do you ride croom? I hope you grandson knows how lucky he is to have a grandpa like yourself. I can smell the premix now!


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

I bought a stock 94 CR500 and rode it for a few months to make sure I was comfortable with the power. I had the 125 frame altered and sent to me and then put it all together the way I wanted.
The 125 frame is a lot different than the 250 frame and much harder to convert. It also turns inside the 250. I used to ride croom 45 sundays a year. Haven't been on a bike much since distracted by fishing.


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## Guest (Apr 8, 2018)

Great job on the boat, sweet bikes too!


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

thanks!


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)




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