# Another Ramlin Question



## TheFrequentFlier (Feb 17, 2016)

I understand this design maximizes space and looks clean, but couldn’t agree more. Tough to get out, especially if you’re by yourself. Just had mine relocated to the tongue area. Way more functional. The last thing you need is additional pain in the rear if you’ve already blown a trailer tire somewhere.


----------



## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

As a guy who knows more than he ever wanted to about changing trailer tires... you're very smart to find out just what tools you'll actually be able to use (and really need) out on the road. Looking at it I'd guess some kind of thin wall deep socket... My rig is much more basic with the lugs easily accessed to remove or replace a tire.. still I keep an 18" 1/2" breaker bar in my truck with the exact size heavy, deep well socket needed for my wheels... 
Good luck and please post up the exact socket size (and other related data) when you finally find out. Anyone that owns (or is considering) one of those nice Ramlins will be listening carefully.


----------



## Water Bound (Dec 12, 2018)

Mine are 13/16”


----------



## Inshore_Inc. (Sep 16, 2014)

I carry a set of thin walled deep sockets as well as a breaker bar incase things are tough. All purchased on Amazon


----------



## BCPD199 (Jan 26, 2015)

As others have said, breaker bar and socket. Keep it in the truck's storage well.


----------



## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

...and a big hammer (just kidding But some days....)

One additional tool (this one was a Christmas gift I specifically asked for...) that’s very handy when working at a ramp
away from home. -a sawzall that’s battery powered... Mine is an 18 volt Bosch. Nothing beats it for rusted bolts -as long as you have the new parts and fasteners you need with you. Did I mention that I’ve had to learn more about trailers than I ever wanted to know?


----------



## Jason M (Aug 13, 2017)

As mentioned above 13/16 extended socket and a large breaker bar did the trick. I gave all my bolts a run through. 

I got the spare off but one of those was a locking lug. 

My old skiff didn't have fancy rims so it was never an issue but that location of the spare is silly but necessary with the swing away tongue. But it's now in the bed of the truck which is where mine were always because they tend to walk away at ramps. 

Good news is that TA Mahoney's had a couple of vortex hubs so I'm covered there now.


----------



## Jason M (Aug 13, 2017)

lemaymiami said:


> ...and a big hammer (just kidding But some days....)
> 
> One additional tool (this one was a Christmas gift I specifically asked for...) that’s very handy when working at a ramp
> away from home. -a sawzall that’s battery powered... Mine is an 18 volt Bosch. Nothing beats it for rusted bolts -as long as you have the new parts and fasteners you need with you. Did I mention that I’ve had to learn more about trailers than I ever wanted to know?


Capt Bob, why a sawzall versus a grinding wheel? Less flying metal?


----------



## KCTim (Feb 7, 2017)

Be sure to put some ant-seize on the lugs, for a couple bucks it will definitely save you trouble later.


----------



## Jason M (Aug 13, 2017)

TimR said:


> Be sure to put some ant-seize on the lugs, for a couple bucks it will definitely save you trouble later.


Yes. I used some Corrosion X


----------



## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)




----------



## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

For Jason... You can get the blade of a sawzall into places where you could never reach with a grinder (and of course nuts, bolts and other fasteners seem to be destined for hard to reach places that are hard to reach...). All that's needed is a metal cutting blade and a pair of gloves to cut down on the skinned knuckles... Think I've mentioned more than once in the past.. Most of my lessons should have come with a box of band-aids.


----------



## Mako 181 (May 1, 2020)

I also double nut my wheel studs. Keeps the male threads from corroding and making the nuts hard to remove.

13/16 sparkplug socket.


----------



## Finatic7 (Feb 14, 2020)

I went through this with Ramlin right after I purchased my HB. There were 2 options. Option #1 - I actually went to Ramlin and purchased a 13/16 impact that they had machined ($15) to achieve a thin enough wall to fit between the lug and the wheel. Option #2 - Husky (Home Depot) does have a 13/16 socket that will fit but I'm not sure which exact model. I went with option #1 because I keep a Milwaukee battery impact in my tool box when I'm towing the boat for just such an occasion. Now all the Ramlin trailers have a sticker that indicate that the lug nuts should be torqued to 120 ft-lbs before each trip, so I purchased an inexpensive torque wrench from Amazon. It's the Tekton brand in 1/2" drive to check the lug nuts before I go out and keep that in the same tool box. If memory serves it was about $45. It has a long handle and is somewhat low profile, so in a pinch I could use it to break the spare tire lug nuts free. Hope that helps.


----------



## Jason M (Aug 13, 2017)

Finatic7 said:


> I went through this with Ramlin right after I purchased my HB. There were 2 options. Option #1 - I actually went to Ramlin and purchased a 13/16 impact that they had machined ($15) to achieve a thin enough wall to fit between the lug and the wheel. Option #2 - Husky (Home Depot) does have a 13/16 socket that will fit but I'm not sure which exact model. I went with option #1 because I keep a Milwaukee battery impact in my tool box when I'm towing the boat for just such an occasion. Now all the Ramlin trailers have a sticker that indicate that the lug nuts should be torqued to 120 ft-lbs before each trip, so I purchased an inexpensive torque wrench from Amazon. It's the Tekton brand in 1/2" drive to check the lug nuts before I go out and keep that in the same tool box. If memory serves it was about $45. It has a long handle and is somewhat low profile, so in a pinch I could use it to break the spare tire lug nuts free. Hope that helps.


Thank you Finatic this is good info. I'm going to double check my docs also. Maybe I missed this the first time through the docs.

As an aside. I hate complexity that doesn't seem to actually add value. I always look at Tibor reels as an example there's brilliance in the simplicity of those reels


----------



## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

TimR said:


> Be sure to put some ant-seize on the lugs, for a couple bucks it will definitely save you trouble later.


Never put any lubricant on fasteners that have a torque spec, especially wheel studs. It skews the torque spec and can lead to loosening of the fastener.


----------



## jmrodandgun (Sep 20, 2013)

Reduce the torque load to compensate for the loss of friction when using anti seize. If you don't correct the value you can over torque the fasteners.


----------



## Jason M (Aug 13, 2017)

How much do you think I should reduce the torque to?

Frankly it would be easy enough to pull the hubs and wash off.


----------



## TheFrequentFlier (Feb 17, 2016)

this is going to save me A LOT of ass pain the next time I blow a trailer tire. Learned the hard way and it was stuck underneath the bow. Not fun at night, alone. When I had this done also took an inventory of my tools to ensure I had everything in the truck necessary to change the spare.


----------



## Jason M (Aug 13, 2017)

TheFrequentFlier said:


> View attachment 166621
> View attachment 166622
> 
> 
> ...


This was how my old skiff was setup and it was nice. The tire was a handy step when I was loading by myself, lol.


----------



## Jason M (Aug 13, 2017)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Never put any lubricant on fasteners that have a torque spec, especially wheel studs. It skews the torque spec and can lead to loosening of the fastener.


I backed mine if to 90lbs do you guys think that's enough?

I appreciate all your guys help here.


----------



## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Jason M said:


> I backed mine if to 90lbs do you guys think that's enough?
> 
> I appreciate all your guys help here.


I don’t know, I just remember getting my ass chewed by the manager at Discount Tire for bringing in my 9800# Excursion with neverseez on the studs and he was pissed because it’s a liability for them to let a truck leave their shop with it on the studs so they have to clean off each one.


----------



## Douglas Smith (Nov 19, 2017)

3/8 drive deep well socket 3/8 to 1/2 adapter for a1/2 drive breaker bar


----------



## Douglas Smith (Nov 19, 2017)

Douglas Smith said:


> 3/8 drive deep well socket 3/8 to 1/2 adapter for a1/2 drive breaker bar


Ps I ship all Chittum boats and Liberator boats later Doug


----------

