# Skiff Plans???



## FishCrazzy63 (Dec 24, 2012)

Need help. New to the site as a registered member. I would like to look at different plans/ideas on a 17-18 ft. skiff. Any recommendations on where to find any via the internet? Thanks for any help.
(probably should get back to work now.....you can sure burn a lot of time on this site...... )


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## topnative2 (Feb 22, 2009)

http://www.bateau.com/


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

https://www.boatdesigns.com/18-1_2-Flats-Flyer-Florida-flats-boat/products/821/
And a couple Ospry's build going on in the Bragging section.


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## CurtisWright (May 9, 2012)

IMHO wood boats are heavy and rot. Aluminum boats are light and crack. Composites are light, strong and resiliant. Check out Little's One off skiff build in the bragging section. All foam and fiberglass. What ever you decide to do. Never put wood in a boat.


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## FishCrazzy63 (Dec 24, 2012)

Thanks for the replies!
CW...I agree...composite is the best way.  I am trying to figure out shape/design.  I have the "how" to build figured out.  Would like to find something out there plans wise that is similar in size/shape to a East Cape, Beavertail, etc. that can run with my current motor (2012 60 HP Suzuki).  Thanks again for any help.


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## CurtisWright (May 9, 2012)

Alot of people desigh them in a CAD program like Solidworks or AutoCAD then section it in the model, print them out to scale and use them for paterns. I personally have never done this because I am not familiar with the programs, but the next one I do will be in Cad. 

The one I am currently working on (Fowl River 16) in the bragging section I designed in Microsoft Excel by curve fitting forms on the equation Y=ZX^W. Then I built a platform, plotted everything out on it and started piecing together. The lower chine on my boat is fit to Y=ZX^2 the middle line is Y=ZX^3 and the gunnel line is Y=ZX^4. I curve fit them to a 5' x 16' box.


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## topnative2 (Feb 22, 2009)

[smiley=rain4.gif] --[smiley=smilie-iamwithstupid.gif] [smiley=officeslave.gif] [smiley=hmmm.gif]- [smiley=doh1.gif] =[smiley=1-beer.gif]


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

As we have debated many times on this forum, there is nothing wrong with wood, if you build the boat correctly and with the proper epoxy resins as required by the designers. Also they are usually much lighter then an all glass boat that many manufacturers produce, but some other composite boats will be even lighter. I second Bateau.com, they have great and easy to build designs mostly using the stitch and glue method. They also have a forum of there own with lots of support and ideas.


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

I am going to play second fiddle to Firecat on this issue.  Wood is not necessarily a bad thing.  It actually has very desirable mechanical properties if you can protect it from moisture.  Everyone has owned or known  several fiberglass boats where the transom or stringers rotted out.  Due to this wood has a bad rap in our world, but the problem is due to the characteristics of polyester resin and wood composite construction, not the wood itself.  Polyester resin only achieves a mechanical bond with wood at best and is porous to moisture over the long run.  With cycling, the polyester resin separates from the wood and moisture collects around the wood.  The result is that wood encapsulated in polyester FG is subject to constant moisture and is doomed to rot.  Most manufacturers use polyester or vinylester resins because they are more economical and more compatible to their construction techniques than epoxy, not because they are mechanically superior materials.

I was on the "no wood" bandwagon until I did my homework.  While I would still never buy any polyester FG boat with wood components, I am building a ply/epoxy hull right now.  When I hear a manufacturer brag about "no wood" construction of a FG boat I could actually afford, I add 50% to whatever I think the weight of the hull should be.  If they are using kevlar, carbon fiber, epoxy resin and foam board they will keep the weight very low, but the price tag will be 400% or more of whatever I think the cost should be.

For the home builder, wood and epoxy resin are the easiest medium to work with and you will get a tough, light boat in the end.  Strip-building, cold molding and stitch-and-glue construction require tools most semi-handy guys already posess and allow for any hull form you can dream up.  Epoxy is incredibly compatible with wood and is very easy to work with under "garage conditions".  If you want to build molds and learn to vacuum bag in your garage, you can play with the high tech materials that aren't compatible with regular stitch-and-glue building techniques, which is very cool, but the learning curve is much steeper and the incurred costs are significantly increased.  IMHO I don't think you get as much improvement (strength and weight) as you have paid for.

I like Bateau.com as well.  They have the biggest selection and their plans are excellent.  Even if you decide on a plan from another designer, surf the Bateau.com forum to figure out how to use the materials.  There are some fabulous tutorials on there.  Smith Marine Design has a couple of nice skiffs that have received a lot of positive attention here (http://www.smithmarinedesign.com/stockplans.html).  Arrowhead Custom Boats has the Lutra Laker that I think is pretty cool (http://www.duckworksbbs.com/plans/nichols/laker/index.htm).  I keep looking at Gator Boat Co plans (http://www.gatorboats.com/).  Dig around in the plans section on Duckworks (http://www.duckworksbbs.com/plans.htm).  There is all sort of neat stuff in there, but many of those plans are very old and may provide no option for customer support.  Glen L has a bunch of plans.  I don't really like any of them, but you might.

Nate


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## cutrunner (Jun 8, 2010)

Indonesians traveled thousands of miles in wood canoes.
Vikings explored most of the world in wood rowing ships before columbus was ever a sparkle in his dads eye.
Nothin wrong with composites either


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## oysterbreath (Jan 13, 2009)

I just plan ignore most post about how BAD wood is as a marine construction material. Whatever material you choose will have weakness that can be compounded by poor construction technique. Wood's is easy to point out. If you build poorly with wood....it will rot! If you abuse it without maintenance...it will rot! If you drill holes in it without properly sealing it...it will rot. If you sheath it in a material that will let moisture in and never let it out or fully dry (polyester resin)...it will rot! It's that simple. With man made material the results of poor construction aren't as easily explained. Thus people assume that somehow it's a superior material? That is delusional.
Anyway, back to your point. I'm building the Osprey 18 from Smith Marine. It's a great 18 footer design but is time intensive. His Crystal should be a quicker build. 

Here are a few others to ponder:

*The Bayou Jubilee:*
http://spirainternational.com/hp_bayo.php

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D_PVvgRFn4M

















It's a decent looking traditional boat

Mark Bowdidge has the *Flatchat 16 and Flatchat 18*:
http://www.bowdidgemarinedesigns.com/Bowdidge_Marine_Designs_1/Flat_Chat_16.html








Mark puts together the BEST set of plans I have ever seen in the marine industry. I mean they are wall hangers! Don't be intimidated buy the price of the plans if you like the design! There is one being built right now


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## FishCrazzy63 (Dec 24, 2012)

Thanks again. I have some more searching to do!
Problem is I start reading the posts on the current builds going on and end up spending tons of time. Great way to "waste" time.


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## oysterbreath (Jan 13, 2009)

> Alot of people desigh them in a CAD program like Solidworks or AutoCAD then section it in the model, print them out to scale and use them for paterns.  I personally have never done this because I am not familiar with the programs,  but the next one I do will be in Cad.
> ..


Actually, I use CAD on a daily basis. I've been an AutoCAD user since...1995. A microstation user since 1998. And currently use Revit professionally. I've used Solidworks, Rhino, and a few other. I will tell you that the best combination for amateur usage is STILL Freeship! I love freeship. It's a great little powerful program and it's FREE. For small watercraft design it's perfect. Design your hull and export your stations or panels into Rhino is the way to go. Rhinos developable panels algorithm is the best there is! With the trial verson you get 12 saves before it locks you out. That is more than enough to be able to export your panels into another software for detail work. For detail work, Autocad will be fine or even sketchup.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

In my opinion, wood has its place and value and composite has its place and value. I am not going to tell you which meets your needs - only you can do that.

But I will clarify a couple things for simplicity: Nate stated that wood encapsulated in polyester...I believe that he truly meant to include all of the ester resins that are available and not limited to just that one.

Here is another wood design:
http://willismarineinc.com/sexyboat.php

Another point to clarify is: Douglas fir. I will pick on it because it is a popular wood used in boatbuilding. From the lumberyard the wood has approximately 14-19% moisture content. Encapsulate that amunt of water in anything that will not allow it to further dry out and it will eventually rot. So rot is not just an issue with the ester resins, epoxy will also allow wood to rot. As will many of the other common woods available.

http://vandamboats.com/. Considered the finest wood boats available today - most of their wood is not encased on all sides so the characteristics of the wood can accentuated and used to their fullest capabilities.

Keep doing your homework and if I can offer you a word of advice - don't bite off more than you can handle when you make your decision.


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## Swamp (Jul 12, 2010)

> Keep doing your homework and if I can offer you a word of advice - don't bite off more than you can handle when you make your decision.


Very good advice. If you at all question your abilities, build a canoe or other small boat first. The best thing is of course to build one from the designer that you want to use for your "real" project. There are even free plans out there, I know Bateau/Boat Builder central has a free set of canoe plans. Others do as well. If you really want a "real" boat to practice on, many designers also have very simple 12' to 14' skiffs that let you learn and give you a nice useful skiff/tender.

Swamp


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

Oysterbreath,

I really like the Bayou Jubilee hull. Nice find. I've never seen it before although I swear I've been on the Spira site more recently than 2010.

Ducknut,

Thanks for the clarification. I wasn't sure about how vinylester worked with wood although I had doubts.

Nate


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## oysterbreath (Jan 13, 2009)

Nate, part of me wants to say that the Jubilee has a thread on this site from back around '10 or even '09. It was a white one.

Ducknut, I think the argument pro and against full encapsulation is a never ending one. WOOD will always have water within it's cellular structure. That water is fine. Not only that, AIR is a major ingredient to rot, not just water. Without standing water and air the rot microbes can't do their work/ damage! But your point is taken. I'm glad you pointed out the Van Dam. I drool over there boats. Never knew that they didn't fully encapsulate. How did you find that out?


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## oysterbreath (Jan 13, 2009)

Back on target. I know someone already said Bateau. Typically the first boat of his that we micro folk think of is the Flats stalker 18 BUT don't discount the FS17. Check this one out.
http://labaronboats.wordpress.com/tag/casting-deck/


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Oyster - Parents have a cottage in Boyne City. and dad was a hobby boatbuilder. Van Dam boats also carry a lifetime warranty against rot. 

IMO: The pro's and con's arguement will never end until compatible synthetic components cost less than wood.


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## oysterbreath (Jan 13, 2009)

> Oyster - Parents have a cottage in Boyne City. and dad was a hobby boatbuilder. Van Dam boats also carry a lifetime warranty against rot.
> 
> IMO: The pro's and con's argument will never end until compatible synthetic components cost less than wood.


 I can't disagree with that! Even then, some will argue JUST for the sake of argument. lol
When I first decided to build a boat. I wanted to build NO WOOD. Then I priced everything out and learned to appreciate wood more! lol If I were to build again, I would prolly choose wood because it's what I know BUT I would use a PVC transom at lest.


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