# Help…mounting outboard on Gheenoe transom



## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

Jb weld, no! A thickened 2 part epoxy like six10, yes. Problem is you have to seal those holes as in a gheenoe they are often underwater. I've hit plenty of things, even had an SUV hit one of my motors at 35mph and they never came off the clamps. 
If you insist on having it removable then don't drill. Make sure the clamping surface is stout, tighten down, then put a zip tie through the clamp handles to keep them from backing out with vibration. Also if you are worried about hitting stuff then run the motor with the tilt lock off. If you hit something the motor will just kick up. Remember to lock it if you need to use reverse later.


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## BadKnotGuy (Jul 8, 2012)

If I am understanding what you are trying to accomplish there are a couple of ways to move forward. What you described above would do the trick although it is probably overkill and doesn't really use the right materials for the best results...although it would still get the job done. I have used the over-bore/refill method you describe on wooden boats I have built - although I wouldn't use JB weld. I would order a marine epoxy kit and make a blended fiberglass/silica putty mix to refill the over bored holes and then re-drill to the correct size for the bolt after it dries. That being said though the Gheenoe probably has an all composite transom (no wood) in which case I would drill the hole to the correct size and then "paint" the edges with clean marine epoxy. Marine epoxy flows out real well and will flow down into the fibers that make up the edge of the hole. This seals it against water intrusion. Then around the bolts I would use marine silicon...this will allow easy removal and you can re-apply as needed. You can use this easier method because you are working above the waterline. The key is to do enough to protect the boat but not too much so as to make future work a pain (i.e. avoid 4200 or any other "permanent" solution).


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Man just do what @firecat1981 said


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## MatthewEOD (Aug 21, 2020)

You could also drill a small hole in the screw of the clamp for a pin so you can remove the pin and unscrew. Or add a wing nut as a jam nut.


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## BadKnotGuy (Jul 8, 2012)

Yeah Firecat is right on especially from the simplicity standpoint. Any time you can avoid drilling anything into your boat it is a better outcome. That being said I always personally make sure I have a thru-bolt but that is because where I fish in the glades if there were to be a motor incident I would be well and truly hosed...but it is a belt and suspenders type of scenario...although when I go out pretty much everything related to safety and getting home is belt and suspenders. It isn't always necessary however in a lot of scenarios. When I lived in SC and fished Lake Murray if there was a boat issue I could just throw a stone and hit a bass fisherman to ask for a lift back to the ramp. I think the redundancy issue is carry over from my kayak fishing days.


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## tim in nc (Aug 28, 2015)

Mount a jack plate to the gheenoe. Bolt it to the jack plate. Easy to remove plus you get to move the motor up a couple of inches as well. This is how I run one of the gheenoes.


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## jonny (May 1, 2007)

Find yourself a bronze tube with a ID the size of the bolts to be used. Then drill the transom for the OD of the tubes. Trim them to the exact thickness of your transom. Then epoxy those into your transom. It will also work to keep from crushing your transom core from over tightening. No need for sealant going this route.


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## JMB (Feb 28, 2021)

Thanks all for the quick replies. 

All good ideas.

if I do the epoxy I’ll probably use something that will soak up into the plywood core to protect it.

I really like the idea of using brass tubes, but where the hell can I find a 5/16’ inner diameter brass tube?

I agree that if I can avoid drilling it’s is probably best. But even running the motor in the “unlock” position I have read of several that say they lost the motor anyway.

As BadKnotGuy said about the glade…I’ll be in “America’s Amazon” (check it out below-no ties to,it other than I live here and think the docu is nice) and it can be pretty desolate and gnarly. So having to not worry about the motor would be nice.

America’s Amazon


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Wish I could go there looks cool to say the lest


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## JMB (Feb 28, 2021)

Well…after thinking about it some more and talking with a close friend who owns a boat company, I’m probably NOT going to drill the transom.

Do,like firecat and others said; clamp it down and keep it safety chained to the transom pad eye.

if I do drill I think the brass tubes are a great idea. I found 12” X 11/32 I.d. brass tube at a local Ace hardware store for $3. If I go that route I believe it wou still need a little silicone around the bolts to,keep them somewhat water tight. The silicone would be easy to apply and remove as needed.


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## JMB (Feb 28, 2021)

A buddy helped me apply Fasco Steelflex 2000 to the Hull bottom.

if anyone is considering it for their Gheenoe I used 1 quart and it just covered the bottom. There are a few “holidays” showing through in a few places. I went a little heavier on the bow and stern to account for higher wear areas.

Fasco says 1 qt covers 30 sq ft. Some a 15’4” is probably just a little more than that sq ft. I’d consider buying 2 qts if I did I it again. But adding more now would require Sandi g and preppIng which is not worth it since it really is more about slickness than pretty.


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## GSSF (May 25, 2013)

That looks great


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

I’d use that big fat Catamaran as a mother ship
That tippy little thing is looking good


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

Looks good. I've covered my last few boat bottoms with epoxy and graphite, which is a similar idea. It definitely helps keep the wear down.


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## JMB (Feb 28, 2021)

Finishing her up now.

just need to mount the Gheenoe plates, add reg numbers, and mount the motor (just using screw clamps and attaching safety line).


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