# 16 ft flat bottom dory skiff rebuild.



## PG350

Guess I did the picture thing wrong. :'(


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## BadKnotGuy

From what I can see in the pics after hitting the link it looks like it has loads of potential. Flat bottom dories have been getting it done for centuries. It should be a very capable fishing machine.


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## WhiteDog70810

Very cool.  I've seen a flat bottom panga-like hull somewhere before and I think it had a specific name.  I sure can't remember what it is though.

Sanding and paint will have it looking good soon.

Nate


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## PG350

Sea n Sport currently uses the same mold. They are around 4 grand for just the hull. 

Anyone have info on the graphite/epoxy bottom coat. 
How to mix? How to apply? What are the benefits? Any up close pics?


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## PG350

Need some advise. 

I have a small leak in the hull of this boat and the strakes on the bottom have some damage. I am not sure what kind of resin to use. I like the Epoxy but it is very expensive. I was thinking about using polyester with no wax for the repairs then on final coat (poly) with wax so it will cure. After that i was going to use the west systems graphite/epoxy mix to coat the bottom.

Question? If I use laminating Polyester could I use the graphite/epoxy coating after the that and skipp the polyester with wax? Would the epoxy coating seal up the polyester and help it cure (basically using the epoxy as an air barrier)? I would like to use all epoxy but the cost is crazy.


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## Gramps

I'm on the epoxy bandwagon and that's all I will recommend. Where you pricing the epoxy? It can be had for about $100 per 1.5 gallon kit, I was lucky and found a local place that sells their house brand for $75 per 1.5 gallon kit. Check out Boat Builder Central.com or Glue Products in West Palm.

West Systems is crazy expensive and not worth the cost IMO for most applications. So is the fiberglass from West Marine. Note - stay away from West Marine!


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## PG350

Thank you for the response. If you had to choose what brand would you buy?


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## [email protected]

I bought my last batch of epoxy from this guy.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/230727053885

Has worked well.


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## WhiteDog70810

I used MarinEpoxy from Boat Builder Central and really liked it.  It was almost stupidproof, but on occasion my stupidity rose to the challenge.  Lots of guys like Raka epoxy.  Epoxy is very easy to work with whereas I remember my dad getting some serious gorilla snot looking results with polyester.  I have no personal polyester experience.

X2 regarding West System.  Over priced IMO and blushed like crazy.  Once it set it was like scraping a candle with your fingernail.

West Marine is a shell corporation for the mob.  You will always walk out without your first born child and a pound of flesh.

Nate


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## PG350

Thank you very much that is the best deal I have found. What type of project did you use it on? Do you have any suggestion on using this (tips or advice)?


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## PG350

Thank You all.

That stuff that steelhead bought is a great value. It is around 63.00 for a gallon kit (includes hardener). On ebay it also got great reviews and at that price it is worth a try. 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MARINE-GRADE-EPOXY-RESIN-1-GALLON-KIT-/230732090356?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35b8b44bf4


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## Gramps

PG - The link you posted to ebay does not seem to have the proper product for your use.  Per the manufacturers website: *"SC-1100 is a 100% solids low viscosity primer designed for sealing concrete. Its slow cure rate makes it ideal for warm weather applications. SC-1100 is a 100% solids, low viscosity hybrid novolac epoxy primer designed for deep penetration and sealing of concrete surfaces"*

If you're read good reviews and feel comfortable with it, go ahead. Personally, I will only use resin designed and promoted as a marine grade epoxy boat building resin.


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## PG350

I am no expert on this and that is why I am on here. I appreciate all your help because I don't know which one is best or will at least work and I know that most of you have experience. Thanks again.

"SteelHead"
Just curious how this product turned out when you used this product?


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## tomahawk

I used these guys they are local to me but they do ship:

https://fiberglasssupplydepot.com/home.php


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## PG350

Just purchased two gallons of Epoxy resin and some Graphite powder. Sanding and grinding this weekend then hopefully some glassing. What is best filler to make the epoxy a thicker consistency to use as a filler. Is there anything I might have around the house that can be used as filler, or do I have to purchase more expensive West systems products?


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## PG350

Bought this Epoxy. Will let you know how it works out. 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/310116238243?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649


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## [email protected]

I saw the max bond stuff when I was shopping last. The price is good but I couldn't determine if it was non blush, no vocs and 100% solids.......

Fillers (I get most of mine from US Composites):
For fairing - the fairing mix.
For filleting - wood flour.
For crack and major structural repair - 1/4" chopped glass.
For non sag in any situation - cabosil/fumed silica.
For extra strength - milled glass powder.
For cheap no sag fairing in a pinch - talc/baby powder with the understanding it may be a pathway for water, and is heavy.

Let me know if that epoxy comes with a MSDS sheet, so I can learn if it is non bluch, 100% solids.

The 1:1 mix ratio is nice.


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## PG350

Just fyi, I callled the company and they verified this epoxy is non blushing, 100percent solid s and non voc. They were very helpful and cooperative on the phone. Was worried after ur post, thanks for heads up steelhead.


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## WhiteDog70810

I used woodflour exclusively in the beginning. It drags and sags badly when used alone for fillets. I later started to add fumed silica to my filleting mixes in addition to wood flour (~1 part silica to ~ 2 parts wood flour) and was much happier with the result. The resulting fillets were much, much smoother. Fillets of any sort are a pain to sand, so you really need to get them smooth the first time. Tape wet on wet whenever possible. I did my rough fairing with microballoons and a little woodflour to thicken it and used Quikfair for the final fairing. I filled a couple of thick gaps with wood flour thickened epoxy only and in hindsight really wish I'd added chopped glass.

Nate


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## PG350

Thanks for the info. I found some west systems 404 filler pretty cheap (8.00), I think I might give it a try.


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## PG350

Wanted to finish grinding old crap off bottom of boat today but thanks to Florida weather I am one weekend behind. I also located a really bad patch in the front of the boat that was stuffed with water logged cloth (source of leak). I think the person who made the bad repair was using the cloth as something to use as a backer and when the patch failed it just soaked up water. 

Anyone restoring a boat please do it right the first time so some poor sap like myself does not inherit the mess. 

Good news is that my epoxy will be here this week.


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## PG350

Attempting to post pics.
Bringing the beauty home.


















Bottom after pressure wash.









Bottom after first day of grinding.










Water testing.  









One day maybe it will look close to this.  










Hope you can see the pics this time.


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## PG350

Have all the stuff waiting to work, but no time to do anything.  Cant wait for free time.


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## Gramps

Good looking project you have there! What did you use to clean the bottom?


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## PG350

I used a  4-1/2" Polycarbide Abrasive Wheel  and it works great.    It will eat through anything but does not just rip up all the glass.  I still have another 3 to four hours of grinding before all the blue paint is gone.  The blue part is a mixture of gel coat, paint and some bad polyester patches.  Once the blue stuff is gone I am going to fix any problems then start coating with graphite/epoxy.  Still deciding on paint on the vertical surfaces.  I want to use rusoleum top side but not sure if I like the colors.  

Anyone know Whitesnooky? He used to have this type of hull and I have some questions about it.


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## srttim

Are you using the west system 423 to coat the bottom? Will you be painting over it? I was thinking about coating the bottom of my hull with it to add some abrasion resistance for when I beach the boat of slide over an oyster here and there. Not sure if the stuff is that strong. May be a waste of time for me.


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## PG350

I do plan on using it on as a black bottom coat. From what everyone on here says it will work fine for me. I trailer my boat and I just wanted something strong on the part of the hull that slides on and off the trailer. Once my boat is on the trailer I will probably never see the very bottom again. No I will not be painting over it. I plan on using rustoleum topside paint for the hull except the very bottom. I have used rustoleum in the past and although a very good paint I know that taking it on and off the trailer would rub through the paint.


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## PG350

I want to paint the boat aqua blue but due to cost I am sticking with rustoleum top side paint.  So after showing my wife and four year old daughter the rustoleum color choices; I have now been told that I am painting the boat bright red.  It seems that I do not have a choice unless I can find a aqua or similar blue paint for around 14 dollars a quart.  

I kinda like the red with black bottom look but was wondering if there are an concerns with fish and the color red?????    It would look similar  to this, what do you think??


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## Recidivists

Fish will run from all the other commotion you're making before considering your hull color.


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## PG350

That's what I think also, but according to my wife I don't know $h1t. ;D


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## manatiburon

Get Creative! Use Rustoleum white as your base and mix any of the other color to reach the color of your choice. Make sure you get enough and also you keep track of how much you add of each color, in case you will like to replicate. That's what I am doing with my Gheenoe, should end up being a light green color... tell you after this upcoming weekend ;D


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## tomahawk

Red and FL sun don't mix. Unless its going to be garaged or you are using Awlgrip or top grade automotive paint, I would pass on the red. It will fade and chalk in a hurry if you store it outside.


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## PG350

Yes the boat will always be stored in my garage. I remember someone saying you can add oil based paints to the rustoleum to get the desired color but I cannot find the post. 

Anyone know what kind of paint i would mix with the rustoleum to get the color i want? Rustoleum has other oil based paints that have better color options and some are even tintable.


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## firecat1981

I think I said this on another post, but there is virtually no difference between Rustoleum marine paint, and normal rustoleum. All they really do is slap a marine label on it so they can charge you more. I've used both and have seen no difference! Actually Rustoleum started life as a boat paint, then they spread into other markets.

Go and get any other color Rustoleum to mix it in, they are all compatible. I even checked with them directly on that. 

I agree with the others, stay away from red, any lighter color will weather better. Bluegreen, aqua, seafoam.....they can all be done easily with a little trial and error. You can use large syringes when mixing in the other colors so you can guarantee the quantity. Or just be very careful with measuring cups.


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## PG350

Thanks for the info, I will probably go that route. The more I look at the red the more I dont like it. My wife and daughter also prefer some kind of blue.


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## PG350

http://www.lowes.com/pd_353486-90-7524402_0__

I like this color better and the price is great. At that price it might be worth a shot??? It is only sold in gallons.


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## PG350

Well, I grinded with poly disk all day today in Florida sun.  I am pretty much done grinding on the bottom and except for some other touch up work.  Soon I can start repairing that bad patches and damage to the front of the boat.  

Here are current pics.  




















I have been using this and it works great.


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## PG350

Finished getting rid of all the blue paint yesterday and cleaned up the areas that need the repairs, especially the hole in the front of the bow. 

Tonight I mixed up some epoxy and filler to fill in the hole in the front of the bow. I will then lay some glass over the hole. I also glassed over the old live well hole that was in the bottom of the boat. I don't like holes in my boats. 

First time I have ever used epoxy and I like it. Mine is a one to one ratio, and tonight in about 85 degrees, I had plenty of working time. We will see how this stuff cures when I check on it in the morning. 

Next step is to lay some fiberglass cloth on the bow all the way over the repaired hole and down the middle keel/strake. After the cloth is on I will then start the epoxy/graphite coating.


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## PG350

This is the hole in the bow before I cleaned it up.  Messy huh?    It has now been filled in 










I know she's ugly now but I love her lines.  Everything on the bottom that is green/blue will be where the graphite/epoxy coating is going to be. The rest will be safety blue (Rustoleum).


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## tomahawk

Don't think its ugly at all. I really like the panga style.


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## oysterbreath

That red hull looks awesome but what sets it off is the red lettering on the merc. I love red on deck-less boats. So what are you going to do with the rub rail? You gonna go with wood like the pic?


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## PG350

I have some aluminum rub rail I took off of another boat. That rub rail is pretty heavy gauge and solid, only needs a new insert. I was thinking about polishing up the aluminum rub rail then adding a wood insert. We will see. I have so much work to do still. The inside of this boat needs a lot of work as well.


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## LWalker

> I have some aluminum rub rail I took off of another boat.  That rub rail is pretty heavy gauge and solid, only needs a new insert.  I was thinking about polishing up the aluminum rub rail then adding a wood insert.  We will see.  I have so much work to do still.  The inside of this boat needs a lot of work as well.


Keep at it! On the polishing, it may not hold up in a salt environment without it being anodized or coated in some way.


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## PG350

I should have all the fiberglass work done this weekend then next weekend I will coat with graphite. I only have a few hours a week to work on the boat. I got a gallon of Rustoleum safety blue paint today and am going to give it a try on the hull.


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## PG350

*What are your guesses ?????????????*

I just picked up a 1997 2 stroke Mercury 25hp and should be working fine with a little fine tuning.  If this skiff ran 23mph with my 1994 Johnson 15hp 2stroke, what are you guesses it will run with the new motor????


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## LWalker

*Re: What are your guesses ?????????????*



> I just picked up a 1997 2 stroke Mercury 25hp and should be working fine with a little fine tuning.  If this skiff ran 23mph with my 1994 Johnson 15hp 2stroke, what are you guesses it will run with the new motor????


Prop HP = A
Boat Gross Weight = B
Bottom Factor =C (180 for V bottom, 200 for nearly flat, 225 for Flat)

Take the square root of A/B and multiply by C

If it was ideally propped and trimmed at 23mph then these are your numbers. I used the formula to derive your gross weight of 1435
15/1435 = 0.0105
Sq root of 0.0174 = 0.1025
225 * 0.1025 = 23 MPH

That seems a little high and is probably partially due to non ideal prop or trim....understandable in a boat like this where we can't fine tune these items like in a race boat. Also, what was your RPM at this speed? What pitch prop were you running?

Using this gross weight, we can apply the numbers to the new motor.

25/1435 = 0.0174
Sq root of 0.0174 = 0.1319
225 * 0.13199 = 29.7 MPH

So under the same conditions (weight, trim, etc) you should be pushing 30. That is my guess


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## HaMm3r

I'd more or less agree with Lwalker. My Merc 25 will push my boat right around 30mph.

There is a very generalized rule you can use that says for every 5hp you add, you'll gain 2-3 mph.


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## Flyline

PM sent


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## PG350

Wow, Lwalker. That's some guess. Id say it is more of a hypothesis. I do not even know the pitch of the prop. It is original aluminum beat up prop and I cannot even adjust the trim. Later I will buy a good prop for the 25 and take the time to adjust the motor perfectly so I can break 30mph.. We will see in a couple weeks.


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## PG350

BEFORE











AFTER










The hole was filled with epoxy/west systems 403 filler.  I then glassed it over with 5 layers of fiberglass cloth.  Next I will cover the entire area up with a a long single piece of cloth.  

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3816/10163536405_4f6a2625d7_k_d.jpg[/img

ANOTHER REPAIR

[img]http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2886/10163672553_84858d4c93_k_d.jpg

It took me hours to remove all the screws, nuts and bolts that were drilled into the hull.  I still have some that need to be grinded out.  I also still have to get most of the old rub rail off which is a pain because of the 8 million screws, bolts and rivets holding it on to the not so strong rolled edge that I am trying to save.  I also removed four large bathroom/handicap grab bars.  This is a lot more work than I ever thought and I am nowhere near finished.  Cant wait to flip it and strap that 25hp on.


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## PG350

I will be covering the entire bow and middle strake with glass before graphite and epoxy.


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## PG350

All repairs done on very bottom of boat.   Boat has been cleaned with acetone and taped off so I can coat bottom with epoxy graphite.  Then I will finish the other part of the hull before flipping.  I have most of the parts for my 25hp Merc and I cant wait to try it out.  














































At least someone is catching SNook. (in my own backyard)


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## PG350

Second coat of graphite/epoxy on the boat.  I have had no time lately and am determined to get all the coats of epoxy on tonight/this morning.  I do not fell like sanding this stuff.  I think one more coat will do it as it is pretty much black now.


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## permitchaser

That is looking great. Can u tell me about the epoxy paint I am restoring my flats boat and need something to seal marine plywood


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## PG350

I used epoxy resin mixed with west systems graphite powder to give me a tough black bottom coating. I figured this would be stronger and longer lasting than any paint. 

here is the epoxy I am using with good results. Big plus is that it has a one to one ratio
It is not a paint. I am using epoxy resin then mixing in west systems graphite powder to make it black. I wanted a strong bottom coating so it would last long and not wear off. 

here is the epoxy I used
http://www.ebay.com/itm/EPOXY-RESIN-BOAT-BUILDING-MARINE-GRADE-HIGH-IMPACT-2GAL-/310116238243?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item48345e43a3


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## permitchaser

Thanks, I will start looking for some locally. I will be mounting a gas tank in the hull and need somewhere to mount it. Marine plywood seems to be the trick


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## PG350

First coat of graphite/epoxy  










second coat 










Next day and after third and final coat.  My daughter loved it and cant wait to help paint the hull blue.  










It's not smooth like all the pro's on here but it will serve it's purpose. Ordered carpet for trailer today. Next week I will hopefully paint the rest of the hull.


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## Gramps

Looks good to me PG! Smart move on taping/covering the remainder of the hull. I saw a similar hull here in West Palm Sunday morning, looks like a winner.


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## PG350

Well, I was going to paint the outside of hull but realized that there were several holes that I needed to fix before paint and to properly fix the holes I need access to the inside of the boat.  I decided to rig the trailer and flip the boat so I can access the inside.   Now you can all see the work I have waiting for me on the inside of the hull.

I used 4x4's then covered them in bunk carpet.  Very heavy duty and the hull is supported all the way to the transom.


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## PG350

I don't know how I missed it but looks like there is some serious transom soft spots. It did not flex with the 15 at all and the outer layer is solid but there is a piece of the inner layer that is pretty much gone. Never done a transom rebuild. I don't want to get my 25hp running strong only to have it sink to the bottom of the ocean. 

Anyone have some links to some good transom rebuilds?

Thanks for your help


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## Gramps

Sorry to hear that PG! You're doing a great job on the boat so far, but it never seems to end, eh? 

Here are a couple links from Bateau to help with the transom rebuild.

http://boatbuildercentral.com/howto/transom_repair/index.php#.Um6GbPlQEdw

http://www.bateau2.com/howto/repair.php


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## PG350

Thank you Gramps. Do you recommend drilling two holes in the bottom area of the transom to apply pressure with a board like in the link or is there another method without drilling any holes? 

Second, will regular fiberglass tape work for tabbing in the transom or do I need to get 1708? 

I now understand when people say to estimate the cost of your rebuild then triple it.


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## PG350

I'm in too deep to stop now!! I will just take this as a good learning experience.


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## Gramps

If you've got big clamps that'll work like this:

Well, can't find the picture but they use huge c-clamps.

Or a bit more simply:










I'd go with at least 12oz biax tape. If you can't find tape, cut strips from biax cloth.


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## permitchaser

Try Seacast it is a liquid and dry to a bulit proof form when it hardens. And u get to use a chain saw for prep. What else could a man ask for. Check it out online it has instructions


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## PG350

Thank You for suggestions.


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## PG350

Trailer set up and graphite bottom coating in place.  










Im thinking it will ride dry.










Drilled 1 inch hole and could stick my finger right into the wood on the soft spot.  I drilled several more and some were strong but all were wet.


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## permitchaser

Yep it is rotten, fire up your chain saw and cut all the wood out carful not to cut the outer skin. Buy some Seacast pour it in and your set. Be sure to cover those hole with tape


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## PG350

I am not sure about the seacast. It seems to me that you need to remove the wood from between the outer and inner fiberglass and that seems impossible. Cutting it out ands replacing with plywood seems like the way everyone else goes and it proven. Have you ever used seacast?


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## PG350

Found some 1708 by the yard (50in x 1 yard) at a very reasonable 10.00. Not looking forward to this transom rebuild but will be worth peace of mind. I feel much better now that I have looked at all the links you guys have provided.


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## permitchaser

Something in my transom looks like Seacast but I can't be sure cause it is used and a "97. but the transom is solid with no signs of cracking and it had a DT150 Suzuki on it from 1997 to 2009. I changed to a DF 140 Suzuki after the 150 blew a cylinder head. You can follow my post " My flats boat is Cursed" on this site :-/


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## PG350

Any downside to using hardwood (like oak) plywood for the transom? It looks really solid and has very little voids. it is 10ply. Against some of your judgment I am not going with Marine plywood for cost reasons and lack of availability. So I was looking for best plywood and the hardwood plywood looked the best.


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## DuckNut

I have used Seacast and it is phenomenal stuff.



> It seems to me that you need to remove the wood from between the outer and inner fiberglass and that seems impossible.


To use it you have to have a cavity to pour the stuff into. The way I did it was to leave the outer skin and cut out the inner skin. Then rip out the wood. If the inner skin is still intact, you can reuse it (after cleaning) or just make a new one- tab it in place, brace the inside and pour until it is full.

Because I have used it the process seems so simple, and it really is. If I ever redo another transom I will use it and I will never put wood in a boat again- unless I plan to sell it to someone else.


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## PG350

I located a source of marine plywood in my area and will probably go with that. I do appreciate the suggestions on the sea cast though. 

I just don't feel comfortable enough with the process to use seacast, I am sure it is good if done correctly. I am just more familiar with using wood. I am going to seal the crap out of the wood with epoxy and will not be drilling into the transom except for a very well sealed drain hole. 

Ducknut, did you grow up in Brandon? I graduated from Brandon High in 99.


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## DuckNut

No- I grew up in the frozen tundra, moved here to thaw out.


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## PG350

I did the opposite, I grew up here then moved to Montana for years then came back for a job.


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## PG350

Did not have any time but was too curious so I cut small square in the inside transom panel and all the wood is very wet. Good news is that the wood separated from the fiberglass easy, so hopefully the rest will separate easy. 
Just FYI for anyone in area, Probuild in Punta Gorda carries marine ply for 82.00 bucks for ¾ inch sheet.


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## PG350

After today I am feeling itchy again.










































































Ran out of daylight and started itching.


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## Gramps

Looks like the wood came out easily? Anyhoo, you're half way there! What was the thickness of the old transom plywood and skin? It's important to meet or exceed the thickness of the previous materials.

How much you using that 'suke in the background? I ran a cr250 for a while in college, lots of fun but in the end earned me the nickname Gramps. ;D


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## PG350

The old transom was 3/4 inch plywood laminated together. I used small wedges and hammered them in-between the rear skin and the plywood to slowly separate the skin from the wood and it worked pretty well. Good news is that the rear skin is pretty thick. Over 1/4inch at the edges. 

You can see in the picture that some of the glass at the bottom was water logged so I will put some glass there to replace the stuff I am removing before I put the wood in. 

That is my 1997 Suzuki DR350 back there. Lots of fun and great on gas. I use it whenever I can to run errands or other to save gas. It gets around 65mpg if I am easy on it and way cooler than those little scooters everyone else has these days.


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## PG350

Rough cut.


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## Gramps

That's a good looking transom you've got there! When is the install date?


You've got the glue, fillet, tape, and lamination schedule down right? Just want to make sure you never have to revisit the transom!


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## PG350

Thanks Gramps. I have watched several videos and looked at hundreds of posts about transom repair. I feel pretty comfortable about the install. 

Install will be ???? I just do little when I have time. Ordered more Epoxy because I am getting a little low and don't want to run out in the middle.


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## PG350

Fitting the new wood.










sealing with epoxy


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## permitchaser

Are u using just one piece of plywood for the transom. Or will there be multiple pieces


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## PG350

Two 3/4 inch pieces epoxied together. I just gave them both a coat of epoxy then I will epoxy them together.


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## PG350

Getting closer to glassing it in.  

I always underestimate the amount of time grinding takes.


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## 1118580Rob

J, can you hurry up with this project so we can finally use your boat instead of mine?! By the way your turn to buy the Pabst


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## DuckNut

Put a nice big rounded corner on those so they will pull up nicely to the skin. 90 degree corner will cause you fits.


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## PG350

Ducknut, where exactly should I put a rounded corner? On all the edges? I have never done a transom before.


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## PG350

Hey redfisher, that grapefruit beer sucked. But thanks anyways.


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## LWalker

> Ducknut,  where exactly should I put a rounded corner?  On all the edges?  I have never done a transom before.


Anywhere there is a sharp edge which should just be along the top edge. Your fillets will take care of that on your inside corners, but you will need to route top edge with a round over bit or sand it to get a nice bubble free glass job. Glass does not like to bend at 90 degrees:


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## PG350

Thank you both. I did not even think to do that and it makes sense.


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## DuckNut

>


Look at the second pic. The vertical corners of the transom are rounded and the wood is squared - not a good fit. The 90 degree corner won't fit into the rounded corner. Also goes for the corner along the bottom.

And what LWalker said.


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## PG350

Got it. I will fix that also. Thank you for the help.


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## PG350

Transom is in.  Ugly right now but solid as a rock.  Will clean it up and glass it in soon, hopefully.  



























I put too much epoxy/filler but that is nothing I cant grind away.  I guess more is better than less.


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## Gramps

That's a milestone right there! Good job PG! Grind that epoxy off outside, it sure makes a mess of a garage and the misses don't like that! ;D


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## DLBjaxbeach

Looking good PG! Huge step for sure. I like the clamping system you worked out there. Especially the bolt thru the drain plug hole. Wish I would have thought of that for mine.

Be careful as you get onto the grinder. Keep in mind that you need to filet the corners to make a rounded inside corner for the glass, just like you did on the outside corners. If you get too crazy with the grinder, you will take a bunch of material out, only to turn around and try to build it right back up. The more material you are laying down for your filet, the more likely it is to sag and give you trouble.


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## kfa4303

Lookin' good. Is the foamy, yellow material an expanding foam/epoxy material, or is it just PB with a yellowish tinge? Now that the transom is in things should start moving along nicely.


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## PG350

The epoxy I use cures to an amber color so when I mix in the west systems filler in it turns yellow. My mixture could have been thicker but It took more filler than I thought and I ran low. No foam used. All pb.


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## PG350

Thanks DLB.

Gramps,

I know all about the dust since starting this project. I always grind and sand outside of the garage but unless I close the door all the way everything still gets coated. My garage looks like a small volcano erupted inside.


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## PG350




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## LWalker

Looking good! What filler did you use? I can see 40? in the background.


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## PG350

Im not home right now to look but I think it was 404 or 403. It was not the best for the job but was on sale. I used it on other parts and it cures like a rock.


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## PG350

403

Seems really strong. I got some on the concrete and when I tried to remove it, a chunk of the floor came with it.


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## PG350

Had a visitor today.  You know it is time to cut the grass when an alligator can hide in it.


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## PG350

I am going to be glassing in the transom soon and wanted your opinion on how many layers of 1708 I should use? How many for tabbing it in and how many for covering the rest. This thing is already crazy strong. I was thinking of two layers because the 1708 is pretty thick stuff. 

Also ideas for lids that would cover my two storage boxes in the middle of the boat?


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## 1118580Rob

Maybe you should mow the lawn before doing anymore glass work!


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## firecat1981

That's perfect pet size for the kids!

A layer of 1708 over the transom should be enough, using a double layer for bonding to the sides and bottom would be a good idea.


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## PG350

Shouldent your name be lady fisher and not redfisher. Or maybe crab stealer.


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## firecat1981

> Shouldent your name be lady fisher and not redfisher. Or maybe crab stealer.


Oh no he didn't! Lol. ;D


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## PG350

;D


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## 1118580Rob

If you weren't my buddy.........................


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## PG350

*lIDS*










After finishing the transom I plan on fixing the bench seats but then I need to make lids for these two storage boxes in the center of this picture.   

Please give me some suggestions on making them.  I was thinking about simple plywood and glass but was wondering about making custom fiberglass lids that come on many of the older style Johnson boats.   Pics of what you guys have done in similar situations would be great.


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## PG350

Transom tabbed in.  I sanded it today and got the final layer of 1708 cut to size and fitted.  Might glass final 1708 tonight.


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## LWalker

Lookin solid!

On the lids, you can see what I did in my Rivercraft thread. Plywood with a piece of 3/4 x 1 1/2 solid wood around the edge and glass over the top.


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## PG350

Thanks Lwalker. I looked at your 14ft build again and have a good idea of what I am going to do now. 

Your new build is looking great. Thanks for the help.


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## PG350

Transom is IN!!!    Might not be perfect but I learned a lot and it is solid.    I fixed a few of the air bubbles right after this pic was taken.


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## PG350

Lots of repairs.  See here http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/12080807135/

Filets look messy but will be cleaned up later. Still deciding what kind of wood to use for front and rear bench seat lids. I am going to paint inside boat white and am thinking of using dark colored wood for the bench seats. Two different fillers used for filets that is why color changed. 

Look at each pic for description.


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## makin moves

The boat will be tuff as nails when your done. Looking good


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## PG350

Thank you.

I just finished glassing in floor drain/valley to make a flat trip free floor. On this boat strength/safety are priorities over light weight because this will be used as family hauler and fishing.


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## PG350

Thank you.

I just finished glassing in floor drain/valley to make a flat trip free floor. On this boat strength/safety are priorities over light weight because this will be used as family hauler and fishing.


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## PG350

I think I am going to name my boat Hellsbay so I can get some comments. ;D ;D ;D ;D 











Glassed in center valley/drain.  Pretty much all structural repairs complete.  Now I need seats.  

I know this thing is ugly now but will clean up with some sanding and paint. I am planning on white paint inside of boat with dark wood benches. 

Debating on building my own anchor pin mounts or buying them from anytide. So many ideas floating around while I stare at this boat in my garage.


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## PG350

Just rough cut of the new Cypress bench seats I am going to install.  I think I am going to stain them darker (maybe teak color) then possibly coat them with epoxy.  I am going to paint the inside white or cream color and think that darker colored wood would look better.  Still have to fix the cut out under front deck and fabricate lids for the storage/livewells


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## LWalker

Looking good! How are going to do the hinges?


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## PG350

That's a good question. ;D ;D

I am running pretty tight on funds now, so I will take a look at a local marine trading post to see what are some options. I am also going to build a small 1/4 inch lip on the openings of the seats and storage bins then router out the back side of the lids so they will be semi water resistant. 

After that I am pretty much ready for paint. After a ton of sanding of course.


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## PG350

Here is a closeup of the front bench seat that I made out of cypress.  I epoxied two 7inch boards together with wooden pegs used to add stability while it was curing. 









Here is a pic of the fiberglass panel I made to cover the opening under the front deck that the previous owner cut out.  I made it a little too big, now I just have to trim and glass in place.  I am going to fill the void behind it with foam after I make a brace out of epoxy coated cypress.  

Before










After (kinda)


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## LWalker

Looking good!


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## PG350

What do you think?  Darker?  Varnish?  Epoxy? 

I kinda like the soft feel of the bare wood  ;D ;D.    I mean.... do you think that bare wood would feel cooler than varnished or epoxied wood?  

Boat will only be exposed to elements when fishing then will be washed and stored in garage.


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## Shalla Wata Rider

Lookin' sweet PG...Love the grain against paint look (future)...A table top epoxy would look great and keep the splinters out of your back side on those sharp turns ;D.


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## PG350

Front bulkhead installed.  I made the bulkhead out of 5 sheets of mat and epoxy that I had.  I then added a support under the front deck made out of cypress that was completely encapsulated in epoxy, and filled cavity with closed cell foam.  The new deck feels rock solid when I stand on it.  This pic was before I glassed over the fillets with a layer of 1708.


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## texasnative46

To All,

Check around your area for Corvette repair places, that buy epoxy, FG cloth/mat & fiberglass resin by the 55 gallon drum & cloth/mat by the bolt. - Oftentimes, they are quite willing to sell you the "relatively small amount" that amateur boat-builders need.

The Corvette shop "makes a buck" & the boat-builder gets a good deal.

BTW, agricultural "pulverized lime", from the farm supply store, works FINE as "thickener" for making "heavy cream" & "peanut butter".

Note: the penetrating epoxy made for sealing concrete works equally well for sealing cracks/leaks in FG hulls.

Note 2: Despite what "Dynamite" Payson says in his books, I know of nobody who has had good success in using polyester resin on plywood boats.

yours, satx


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## PG350

Will attempt wet test this weekend.


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## PG350

Gonna test run today. What are your guesses for top speed? Stock three blade (little rough) aluminum prop, no jack plate. With me 225lbs, very little gear. 

WHat do you think????????


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## PG350

30mph by myself with beat up prop. I think it could use a hydrofoil. With my friend up front it rides alot better and would cruise at 28mph. The tiller is pulling hard to one side and was very hard to run boat with it like that. Can I adjust the anode fin to compensate???? Or is there something else I can do. Motor is centered on hull.


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## tomahawk

Sounds very respectable. Yes on the anode. Congrats on the splash.


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## PG350

Yes I am happy with the numbers and actually think 30 was too fast for this hull. The bottom is very narrow and this boat drives very different than others I have had. I definitely need grab bar, tiller extension, pain and non skid on floor (un sanded epoxy is very slippery). 

Motor vibrates alot, maybe prop and other things. Can dirty plugs make engine vibrate????


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## Shalla Wata Rider

Way to go PG     Can't wait to see pics... 
30 is pretty fast ...But will get you there faster...


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## PG350

Sorry to disappoint Shalla, but the boat is not painted yet.  I wanted to wet test to see where I might need to make changes and add things like grab bar.  Here is pic before leaving today.  Still ugly but can go fishing if I want to as I did today.   











here some fish I caught,  the snapper is 11.5 inch and the drum are both over 17inches.


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## PG350

Friend riding up front.


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## PG350

First coat of paint today.










Second coat in 24hours.    


Here is what it looked like this morning.  









I am going to paint the inside white or cream white and the wood will be varnished.


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## Gramps

Wow what a difference PG! It really turns the corner with a nice paint job eh?


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## PG350

Thanks Gramps.


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## PG350

After second coat and tape removed.  The bottom is dirty, but when clean is a nice shiny black.


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## tomahawk

Looks great. What are you doing for a rubrail?


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## PG350

I have aluminum rub rail from another boat but might make a wood rub rail. I have alot of sanding to do on the inside then I can paint.


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## permitchaser

Boat looks good I like the color and the black bottom. Are u putting a poling platform on it or just using tha oars


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## PG350

No platform probably just trolling motor. Really need to paint inside and get hatches for center storage areas. Also need new prop, should be getting this week.


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## PG350

I forgot to mention that Lwalker nailed the top speed question on the head months ago. He used some formula that ended up being spot on.


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## PG350

I have had zero time to finish the boat but tonight my dad popped in for a visit so we loaded up he boat and took her out for some night fishing.  

After first trip I installed an old dol fin (hydrofoil)that I had and it worked magic on the boat.  The boat hops on plane almost instantly.  The top speed was down to 25mph tonight but that was with (my dad, 260 lbs, me 225lbs, cooler full of ice, fishing gear, 3 gallons of gas and 12 pack of beer).  Also was first use of new (craigslist prop) same model as one replaced, which cut down on vibration dramatically.  

Things that I definitely  need to finish project.

Finish grab bar
non skid on floor
cup holder (spilled beer) :'(
hatched for center storage
rod holders


Fish we brought home, not monsters but dinner









Very nice 13 inch snapper, 12 inch sheepshead and 15 inch drum.  Also caught stingrays, jacks, and lost a very large drum at boat.


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## PG350

Still not painted inside but took it out to check motor and ride just by myself. With the anti torque tab/anode fully adjusted to one side and the new hydrofoil, the boat now runs 28mph with me and full load of fishing gear/cooler with ice.


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## permitchaser

were is the platform and push pole


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## Gators52__20

That thing came out real nice, good job!


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## PG350

Thank You. It will catch fish and that is what it is for.


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## PG350

https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/13885751635/

Video of test run.


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## PG350

Just need to make a rub rail to complete the outside.



















Going to add a home made sissy stick (from aluminum pole), two nice cup holders and and scotty mount to attach my scotty three rod holder. Just waiting for paint to fully cure. The high humidity and rain is slowing down the process. It should catch fish.


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## tomahawk

Looking good man!


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## PG350

Thank You.

I found a local shop that will make me a simple aluminum grab bar for around 75$. Just waiting for paint to cure. Still not completely hard after 3 days but we have had serious rain every day with high humidity.


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## PG350

Almost done.....

I really like the triple scotty rod mount and triple rod holder set up that I have (craigslist for $15.00).  I have a mount on my kayak and now one on my boat.   The triple rod holder has spot to hang lures, a knife and you pliers.  Also it is removable and I can place many different scotty or generic brand accessories.    

I was out of the country for almost a month so I cant wait to go fishing.    Now I am being sent away for a week out of town so more waiting to go fishing.   
I still need rub rail, grab bar and tiller piller.


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