# 1978 Sea Nymph



## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

Nothing really to brag about.
Picked this up a little while ago and had expected to have a few days of minor repairs and then to use it in the SF Bay and local waters. But the more I looked the less I liked and it has turned into a "rebuild" rather than a repair.
First up is the transom









Inside pic, top of pic is the splash well
Then bolted on is a 1/4" thick piece of angle iron
exposed plywood of the transom
aluminum u-channel w/flanges bolted thru the transom (think this is OEM)








After removing all the bolts/screws/Trans cap... last was the serial # plate









How would you like 60 horses attached to that 









Some marine ply

























Fitting 3/16" aluminum plate over the 1/8" OEM plate


















All fasteners replaced with stainless steel.
As you can see I've already removed all the decking and in the process of cleaning the inside of the hull. Leaning towards old school vinyl to cover the deck. Like how it is easy to clean fish blood etcetera.


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## Gianni Battaglia (Aug 19, 2019)

Bitchen! Starting a rebuild on my skiff now. Always liked the way the sea nymph looks.


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## anytide (Jul 30, 2009)

cool !


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

Took me several hours getting the deck and aluminum supports out. Some genius previous owner actually used drywall screws to attach the aluminum supports to the ribs and then the plywood to the supports.
Every single one was corroded/stuck and about a dozen of the screws (most on the supports) were broke off not by me but from the rust. Trusty vice grips removed them


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## Gianni Battaglia (Aug 19, 2019)

Not looking forward to what’s going to be under my existing deck. Good on you for taking the time to remove all the previous shit.


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

had a few minuets to work on the nymph. I moved the aluminum deck supports to better positions for their size.









then made these 2 x 6's to fit.
not pictured is a few 2" x 6" forward.

Just enough room to add some 5200 between the aluminum rib and the 2 by's. 
Pissed me off as i had to cut the first one 3 times and it was still to short


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Cut some vents in the wood so air can evaporate and it can dry out under there.

Super job on the transom.


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

I just finished sanding those 2by's so there ready to get a few coats of epoxy, but the weather has not been cooperating lately.

...SO...

Just testing to see if I can warm them up a little.
14w bulb is taking to long, but might be good to maintain the temp so the epoxy can cure.
I'll try another bulb to get them warmed up tomorrow as I'm not inclined to leave something like that unattended. Right now the 2 by's are separated by 1 1/2" finish nails driven in the 2 by's about a 1/2". Figure it will take a few hours with a "hotter" bulb to get them warmed up, then coat them and re-stack in my little garage oven


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## Gianni Battaglia (Aug 19, 2019)

mro said:


> I just finished sanding those 2by's so there ready to get a few coats of epoxy, but the weather has not been cooperating lately.
> 
> ...SO...


Where in CA are you?


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

SF Bay Area
Place called Hayward (east bay)

No traffic I'm 40 minutes to Half Moon Bay launch ramp, 25 to 40 minutes for two ramps in SF Bay (Berkeley and then Richmond) An hour and 15 minuets from launching in the delta. 4 to 5 hours from all the lakes/reservoirs I haunt with my little boat. No shortage of places to go especially when I get to go when schools in and people are working


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

DuckNut said:


> Cut some vents in the wood so air can evaporate and it can dry out under there.
> 
> Super job on the transom.


Thanks for the complement.

It's going to be filled with foam except the one next to the transom ( I want to be able to see the drain plug and there will be one bilge pump there too). 

Up front there will be three feet under a casting platform for storage and another bilge pump. So no foam there.

I'm thinking to leave 1/4" space between the deck and side of the hull but the deck for the first 4 feet will be water tight. That section of deck will only take two minuets to remove or reinstall so when the boats home I'll be taking it out at least in the beginning to see if anything is happening that I might not like.


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

Got around to doing a little more to the Nymph.










3/4" marine ply cut to fit and add support the hull. Will be sealed, and made water tight when installed.










Had some 1/4" thick plastic left over from other projects which found their new home here 



















I've got an old school electric miter box I picked up in the 70's and it still makes perfect angle cuts today.
Original plan was to frame all the hatches with aluminum but after just framing the main hatch opening seemed like enough.










Notice the shadow? Wish full thinking 
The seat bases are attached to the 1/2" deck, then to 3/4" ply,that is attached to two 2 by 4's which are attached to the hull ribs which Id already "modified" to make them stronger.










I had some aluminum left over from the transom. Made a 10" wide shelf and attached it across the top front side of the splash well. On the left side (can't see it in the pic) I've drilled holes to mount one of my down riggers. Pics to come.

Lot of details left to take care of plus might add something in the back.
Before I can install the radio antenna I've got to decide if I'm going to install the Bimini top. Got a brand new one on close out for $100.00 delivered (6 footer)

The sea deck like material I'm going to put on the inside of the hull is supposed to be here by the end of the month so as soon as I finish a few more things going to have to prep the hull.

Think I might just finish it this year


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

Looks like I skipped over a few things
After a few comments about foam flotation and seeing that over half of the old styrofoam was still in good condition decided to just stay with it. made my own "hot wire cutter", and got some styrofoam from a local company.










Using my cutter...









With some of the leftover pieces..


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

Picked up some wire ties so i can tidy up the electrical wires hanging under the consoles.

Put together the bimini top.
Attached the aluminum tube fittings to small pieces of 1/2" ply, then used "C" clamps to hold them in place on the gunnel.
Attached the hold down straps to the cleats.
Moved it around some to see where I want it.


















After playing with it for awhile decided to install it but I'm not happy with the idea of using the #10 self tapping sheet metal screws provided. Another trip to the hardware store to get some #10 fender washers. I've got a bunch of #10 SS machine screws so plan to use them instead.

Nav lights and bilge pumps wired and tested.
plan to install the VHF antenna and test it today.


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## Moonpie (May 12, 2020)

Looks like your doing a fine job on the renovation. Are you replacing the windshield?


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

Moonpie said:


> replacing the windshield?


Nope.
Might clean it up some.
After I use the boat for awhile if I'm not happy with the side consoles I might turn it in to CC.


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

Removing carpet glue... 



























Got a scraper attachment for my sawsall.
While not fun to use it beats doing it by hand.

Thought I'd ordered the "sea deck" type flooring I'm puting on the hull w/o lines. It arrived and that's what it has so now do I install it vertical or horazontal...


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

I was going to get fender washers to back-up the screws holding the bimini top brackets on the gunnel.
Decided that I could make a few backing plates from left over aluminum faster than the trip to the store.


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

I think I'll try wiping it off with some lacquer thinner and test some industrial spray adhesive I've got. 
If it bonds to the hull as scraped then I'll stick the covering on it.
(the covering has an adhesive backing)
If not then out comes the grinder with a wire wheel.


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## makin moves (Mar 20, 2010)

How is that scrapper attachment? Any good? Need to remove some old carpet as well.


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

scraper attachment, "spider" brand
available in several sizes which I chose the smallest, 1 1/2" wide, $8 and some change at Lowes.

It's a pain in da butt, but  at least in my situation it's the best choice I found.

The older/hard carpet glue zips right off.
The glue that is still gummy
(guessing that the carpet has been replaced 3 times since 1978)
can take 5 times longer to remove.
Also as your using the tool, you need to keep a very firm gripe as the scrapers head can "dig in" causing a chain reaction of the sawsall being pushed back before you can let go of the trigger switch. The saw will jump as much as a foot or so if you can't pull it from the work.

BTW, I was able to pull all the carpet off by hand which left all the glue and patches of carpet backing for the scraper to remove.


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

Not sure how I missed this one, but wanted to say nice work!


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## LowHydrogen (Dec 31, 2015)

mro said:


> scraper attachment, "spider" brand
> available in several sizes which I chose the smallest, 1 1/2" wide, $8 and some change at Lowes.
> 
> It's a pain in da butt, but  at least in my situation it's the best choice I found.
> ...


Nice project!

There's a product called "Ultra-Strip Back to Nature" it'll remove that glue. I had to use it to remove some Awl-Grip that didn't kick off properly. They sell it at Home Depot around here and it's also gelcoat safe (not that it matters in this situation).

What is it with dumbasses and drywall screws? It's like the unofficial calling card of lazy dipshits everywhere.


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## LowHydrogen (Dec 31, 2015)

One more thing, if your working where it's hot and you notice the stripper trying to evaporate too quickly. You can cover it with some saran wrap/cling wrap and it'll keep it wet and working for a long time. Peel it off and that stuff will come off like butter.


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## makin moves (Mar 20, 2010)

mro said:


> scraper attachment, "spider" brand
> available in several sizes which I chose the smallest, 1 1/2" wide, $8 and some change at Lowes.
> 
> It's a pain in da butt, but  at least in my situation it's the best choice I found.
> ...


Thank you! I ended up with this old girl. Carpet so old can't even pull it from the glue. All on aluminum so at least I can get after it.


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

makin moves said:


> Thank you! I ended up with this old girl. Carpet so old can't even pull it from the glue. All on aluminum so at least I can get after it.
> View attachment 143786
> View attachment 143788


That’s the perfect inshore boat for our parts of the world right there!


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

LowHydrogen said:


> There's a product called


You know your supposed to tell us BEFORE we bust balls getting it done the hard way  



makin moves said:


> All on aluminum


Just be sure not to poke any holes through the hull. I'm only half joking about that too...
You'll see what I mean once you get a little experience with it. Let us know how it works for you.


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

Imitation "seadek" installed on the hull...

Before 










After...









I've watched a couple youtube vid's of guys installing seadek and it's pretty straight forward process.

Unfortunately putting this stuff on a deck is a piece of cake compared to sticking it to the hull like I did. Me being a little stubborn did it by myself and should have got some help. Still managed to get it done.

Couple new things in the pic 
One is ((small black thing on the aluminum plate attached to the splash well (about a foot from the right side))
That's actually a piece of 3/8" rubber fuel line, split open, then I loosened the plate so I could tuck one side under the plate, the rest as you can see rolls up/over the edge.
Now if a rod gets laid across the back of the boat it wont suffer scratches or worse.
Also if you look at the gunnel (inside top edge) I'm going to attach some there too up to the bimini top aluminum tube... That tube replaces the bimini's rear strap so that when I don't want the top deployed it can (relatively) stored up out of the way inside the "boot" . I used to be just a hair under 6' tall and can walk under it without touching it although when wearing a hat it touches it.


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

Can't edit the post?
The little bit of 3/8" fuel line was a test to see if it would be secure and do what I wanted it for. Now I'll put a piece all the way across and also around three feet up each side on the gunnel.


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)




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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

Just need to re-hookup the outboard controls and service the engine and I can do a water test...
yuu... hoo


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

I like your fuel line splitter jig. how come I never think of things like that?


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

My first hose splliter I made with a piece of metal electrical conduit.
Cut a piece about two inches long and then cut a 3/4 inch slot which I tack welded a ox cutter blade in it. 

Totally miss my shop and all the goodies I collected over the years.


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

did the "300 hr" service on my 2005 merc
(according to it's computer it has 113 hrs on it)


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

My "back ordered" trolling motor arrived and went to mount the quick removal plate found that I need to reinforce the bow deck as it's only about 1/6" thick aluminum It was reinforced at the factory in two spots with 1/2" plywood on edge attached with L-brackets to the hull. Just wouldn't do for attaching the trolling motor. The fun part is what I did to a piece of 2" X 10".

I cut it to fit under the deck, front 9 1/4 inches wide, the the back 26 inches which now makes the ends of the 2 by 13 inches long (and their beveled to match the hull). That was the easy part because the little deck is curved up in the middle. I imagine that Sea Nymph did this to shed water off the small bow deck.
When I first noticed the curve I checked how the aluminum was installed and I could have removed it, trimmed it and reinstalled it flat which would also let my 2 X 10 work as it was.

Instead I did this:









2by just stuck it in to make sure I had it cut to fit.
BTW, you can't see up under the bow unless to tuck your head down 

Then...


















I also made a card board gauge for the middle, then put a 40 grit flap disk on by grinder and formed the front, back and middle to the card board gauges.
To grind the rest of it I used a straight edge.
The red and yellow lines/marks are high spots, grind off then repeat, marking, grinding several times until it was close. Then I finished it off with a small belt sander.




















Not perfect, but with in a 1/16".

Next, I'll add a 3/4" piece of plywood to the bottom so if the 2by ever cracks it will be glued/screwed to the plywood instead of falling apart. I might add a piece of 1/16 inch thick neoprene between the deck and top of the 2by...


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## fletcptdawg (Jun 20, 2014)

blast from the past


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## JDRProductions (Apr 9, 2017)

mro said:


> Nothing really to brag about.
> Picked this up a little while ago and had expected to have a few days of minor repairs and then to use it in the SF Bay and local waters. But the more I looked the less I liked and it has turned into a "rebuild" rather than a repair.
> First up is the transom
> 
> ...


Rad!


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

mro said:


> View attachment 143526
> 
> 
> I think I'll try wiping it off with some lacquer thinner and test some industrial spray adhesive I've got.
> ...


The Sea Nymph looked like a lot of work. I am sure I will need to refer to your photos when I replace my transom. 

I grew in Walnut Creek so I know your area well. I am glad I do not have to deal with sea water in Georgia. Where I live now.


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

Used to be a fly shop in Walnut Creek I'd visit when I had things to do there.
Getting few and far between in the bay Area as commercial rents are so high.


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