# OK Experts!!!!!



## Weedy (Dec 11, 2006)

I posted this on Custom Gheenoe also, but could someone please explain why you just don't use one peice of mono to attach your fly to the fly line. I just don't understand why you need tipets and leaders and so one! Thank you in advance for your time and help with this small question.
Weedy


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## john (Jun 23, 2007)

If your blind casting to spanish Mac's in a chum slick it really doesn't matter. On the other hand, a tapered leader can be Knot less which allows for only one connection. But one reason for the sectional and tapered leaders, is to be able to( turn the fly over properly ) so you can
land the fly lightly for a sweet presentation.


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## captkenroy (Jan 10, 2007)

It has to do with transfer of energy. Think of the leader as a continuation of your fly line. The leader's taper provides transition.

For most saltwater fishing, a 7' leader is plenty. Certainly for trout, redfish and snook. When I use a full sinking line, my leader is never more than 4'. When I am fishing poppers, I seldom use over 6'. Usually 2' of 40. 2' of 30 and 2' of 20. 

Flyfishing is not magic but sports writers and fly shops want you to believe it is.

If you want to learn how to tie your own leaders, let me know.


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## HaMm3r (Dec 11, 2006)

> For most saltwater fishing, a 7' leader is plenty.  Certainly for trout, redfish and snook.  When I use a full sinking line, my leader is never more than 4'.  When I am fishing poppers, I seldom use over 6'.  Usually 2' of 40. 2' of 30 and 2' of 20.


Wow…I am really intrigued by Capt. Kenroy’s response, as I taught myself to cast with a 12’ leader and have used that length almost exclusively.   I think I may have to downsize and see if I can make longer casts with a shorter leader.

Even though I am painfully far from being an expert, I think I can add to the previous explanations.  : Just keep in mind that this is all based on my relatively novel understanding of fly casting mechanics, so I’ll trust that the actually forum experts will chime in to correct me where needed. 

Generally, the purpose of a leader is to deliver your bait or lure as discretely as possible to your target. In the case of a fly leader, you are trying to get the lure as far away from your highly visible flyline as needed, in order to make a good presentation. To that end, you want the leader to unroll its entire length cleanly and deliver the fly at its farthest point. But unlike a conventional lure or bait, flies have very little weight with which to “pull” the leader straight, so you have to rely on the forward momentum of the line to “whip” itself forward and complete the cast. This is where a tapered leader comes into play.

I think you’ll agree that a 30# piece of mono is much stiffer and heavier than a 20#, and has a much greater propensity to return to its original shape than the lighter line. So, by using a straight piece of heavy mono in the butt section, its natural tendency to uncoil helps to unroll the rest of the lighter leader. The same holds true for the tapered sections of the tippet, and each heavier piece’s inclination to straighten helps “fling” the lighter piece in front of it. The end result is that the transition from heavy to light line helps to transfer energy through the leader and prevent it from piling up on itself.

Hopefully that makes sense and isn’t blatantly incorrect. ;D


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## deerfly (Mar 10, 2007)

How you construct a fly leader has a lot to do with the fish you're targeting and the circumstances that you are fishing under. Turning the fly over and managing the fly presentation is probably the main aspect of a fly leader but theres other things too like IGFA regulations that get into very specific leader configurations. Big game leaders are usually 4'-5' straight mono off the fly line, 30 - 40lb test with a loop on one end and is called the butt section. Then you would have a 18"-24" section attached to the butt via a loop-to-loop connection. This part is called a tippet or line class section if complying with IGFA reg's, then a short section of shock or bite tippet of say 60-100lb mono is attached to the tippet. The shock section needs to be 12" knot to knot or less for IGFA, but if you're not worried about IGFA regs then it can be how ever long you think you need, but much beyond 18" or so tends to make it harder to turn the fly over because the line class section acts like a hinge causing the fly to more or less collapse instead of rolling over unless you really have a lot of line speed, etc. Big game leaders are generally not finesse leaders though, so some of the "turn over" considerations aren't nearly as important.

I would say its true that in most situations you can get buy with relatively short leaders, under 7' or so I would say. However, it generally takes about 9' of leader to make a nice smooth taper. Spooky fish like bonefish generally require really long leaders like 10'-12' or so and I've heard of guys using 15' at times. Redfish, trout and snook are usually not so picky. Hammering the mangroves doesn't require as much leader as you would want on an open flat because the fish are usually tucked up under cover and won't see the fly line or fly coming at them, but in open water they will, so you have to set your leader up appropriately. That doesn't mean you can't catch a bonefish with a 4' leader either, but having a good tapered leader of the appropriate length will make presenting the fly easier and likely spook less fish.


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## Weedy (Dec 11, 2006)

Thanks guys, I have seen some fly rods with just straight mono that goes from the fly line to the fly and I was curious as to why use tipets and everything else. I understand the IGFA thingy for the records, but I just want to throw and catch a few fish. My goal is to boat one each of the following: snook, red, tarpon and bonefish, then I will hang it up on the wall. Thanks for th ehelp guys, I really appreciate it.
Walt


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## deerfly (Mar 10, 2007)

> My goal is to boat one each of the following: snook, red, tarpon and bonefish, then I will hang it up on the wall.


jeez, not settin' yer sites too high are ya.


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## Guest (Jun 1, 2008)

> My goal is to boat one each of the following: snook, red, tarpon and bonefish, ..
> Walt


Just remember, catching your fishing partner voids previously caught fish. ;D ;D ;D ;D


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## fatalbert43 (Dec 13, 2006)

> > My goal is to boat one each of the following: snook, red, tarpon and bonefish, ..
> > Walt
> 
> 
> Just remember, catching your fishing partner voids previously caught fish. ;D ;D ;D ;D


It only counts if you stick the hook..........and you touch the leader!


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## Guest (Jun 1, 2008)

> > > My goal is to boat one each of the following: snook, red, tarpon and bonefish, ..
> > > Walt
> >
> >
> ...



Are you saying that if I "break off" previous fish still count for the slam? ;D ;D ;D


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## Weedy (Dec 11, 2006)

> > My goal is to boat one each of the following: snook, red, tarpon and bonefish, ..
> > Walt
> 
> 
> Just remember, catching your fishing partner voids previously caught fish. ;D ;D ;D ;D


So what are you trying to say mr ron???
Besides, the only thing that I catch is myself!


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## Weedy (Dec 11, 2006)

> > My goal is to boat one each of the following: snook, red, tarpon and bonefish, then I will hang it up on the wall.
> 
> 
> jeez, not settin' yer sites too high are ya.




Got have some kind of goal....... [smiley=skull-n-bones.gif]


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