# Rocky Creek Boat Designs - skiff building made easy



## bryson

Looks cool -- some specs would be nice. Beam at waterline, beam at widest point, deadrise, etc? Thanks!


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## Sublime

A boat that could be built out of core but in a stitch and glue technique would be money. It would have to have no hull slappage though.


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## RCB Designs

Sublime said:


> A boat that could be built out of core but in a stitch and glue technique would be money. It would have to have no hull slappage though.


Stitch and glue with core is possible with partially laminated panels, say 4 or 6 oz on each side, then stitch and glue as you would plywood. I've done it with 1/2 inch core and 4 oz glass. All the poling skiff designs have the chines below a 6 inch draft water line for no hull slap, unlike the other S and G offerings out there. These are specifically meant as technical skiffs, designed by someone who actually spends lots of time on the flats sight fishing.


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## Littlefish

The specs are under each boat detail when you click on it on the website, but no max weight/persons are listed.


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## RCB Designs

bryson said:


> Looks cool -- some specs would be nice. Beam at waterline, beam at widest point, deadrise, etc? Thanks!


Thanks!

Specs for flats master 16: 
Length overall: 16 ft

Max deck beam: 70 in

Max waterline beam: 50 in

Draft with 2 people and gear: Approximately 4 to 6 in

Deadrise at midship: 10 degrees

Max HP: 30



Weight: 275 lbs (wood), 375 (foam)

The FM 14 is not finalized but it is just a scaled down version by 14/16. Length and beam scaled down, height kept the same, deadrise reduced on the whole boat because it is meant as a true microskiff that can draft sub 4". 

Specs for the spartina 16:
Length overall: 15 ft 10 in

Max deck beam: 56 in

Max waterline beam: 46 in

Draft with 2 people and gear: Approximately 4 to 6 in

Deadrise at midship: 8 degrees

Max HP: 20 

Weight: 250 lbs 


Specs for the pusherman 18 are the same but 18 ft long and 300 lbs. 


Specs for the spartina 18:
Length overall: 18 ft

Max deck beam: 66 in

Max waterline beam: 58 in

Draft with 2 people and gear: Approximately 4 to 6 in

Deadrise at midship: 8 degrees

Max HP: 40

Weight: 350 lbs


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## RCB Designs

Littlefish said:


> The specs are under each boat detail when you click on it on the website, but no max weight/persons are listed.


This is a great point, will add that information to the descriptions asap. Thanks


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## Littlefish

Am I reading right that no floor can be put in all the boats if using core panels as it makes them too heavy?


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## RCB Designs

Littlefish said:


> Am I reading right that no floor can be put in all the boats if using core panels as it makes them too heavy?


You can put a floor in the foam boats if you wish. Stringers are included in all of the plans packages. It is especially appropriate for the 18 footers. However, a floorless model with doubled core on the running surface and carbon laminated on the inside will be stiff enough, save build time, and weight. The wood boats require the stringers and floor.


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## RCB Designs

Also, you can always add it for other reasons such as a desire for flat area to mount things on, or if you just want an extra solid feel while running.


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## Sublime

RCB Designs said:


> Stitch and glue with core is possible with partially laminated panels, say 4 or 6 oz on each side, then stitch and glue as you would plywood. I've done it with 1/2 inch core and 4 oz glass. All the poling skiff designs have the chines below a 6 inch draft water line for no hull slap, unlike the other S and G offerings out there. These are specifically meant as technical skiffs, designed by someone who actually spends lots of time on the flats sight fishing.


I know several people itching to build a super light glades skiff type hull. I'm guessing if done correctly a hull with two guys of modest weight would draft 4" - 5", leaving some chine above the waterline?


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## RCB Designs

Sublime said:


> I know several people itching to build a super light glades skiff type hull. I'm guessing if done correctly a hull with two guys of modest weight would draft 4" - 5", leaving some chine above the waterline?


The intention is for people to have the gas tank and gear forward to submerge the chine. The additional submerged V forward will get it to spin readily. However, I'd be happy to modify it to flatten out the bottom for them to get it to a 4 inch draft and provide custom plans for a commission fee. This goes for the other models too.


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## RCB Designs

Sublime said:


> I know several people itching to build a super light glades skiff type hull. I'm guessing if done correctly a hull with two guys of modest weight would draft 4" - 5", leaving some chine above the waterline?


Just measured. Actually only requires 4 and 3/4 inches on the pusherman.


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## Sublime

You've got something then. Good job.


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## RCB Designs

Sublime said:


> You've got something then. Good job.


The 4 and 3/4 inches required draft applies to the whole Spartina series, and the flats master has similar bow deadrise but I would have to check to be exact. 

Thanks, please mention it to your buddies if you think they'd be interested. The pusherman version has the benefit of being the first one to be built full scale, as I'm building it as my personal skiff (at least for a little while). Just made a build thread for it. They've all been built at 1/12 or 1/6 scale out of cardstock to check fitment, but I'm sure people will want to see full skiffs.


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## Sublime

RCB Designs said:


> Specs for the spartina 18:
> Length overall: 18 ft
> 
> Max deck beam: 66 in
> 
> Max waterline beam: 58 in
> 
> Draft with 2 people and gear: Approximately 4 to 6 in
> 
> Deadrise at midship: 8 degrees
> 
> Max HP: 40
> 
> Weight: 350 lbs


I think you'll have a lot of interest in this. I'd encourage a 30 horse. All of the 40s weigh as much as the 50s and 60s .


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## Littlefish

I really like the spray rails (frs 16 doesn`t have it) combined with the hard chine that stays under the waterline (same), combined with stitch and glue build (which the conchfish and beryllium don't have), and stations that double as bulkheads and aren't wasted (same). It seems to combine the good points of each boat. 
Is there any way to soften the square hull point under the bow, or does keeping the hard chines under waterline and in a wood s&g build make that not possible?


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## RCB Designs

Littlefish said:


> I really like the spray rails (frs 16 doesn`t have it) combined with the hard chine that stays under the waterline (same), combined with stitch and glue build (which the conchfish and beryllium don't have), and stations that double as bulkheads and aren't wasted (same). It seems to combine the good points of each boat.
> Is there any way to soften the square hull point under the bow, or does keeping the hard chines under waterline and in a wood s&g build make that not possible?


Thanks, was trying to fit that exact niche you mentioned. It is possible to have a fully rounded bow like that with S and G. That hard, straight bow was actually the main stylistic element I mulled for a while. Eventually went with the straight shape above the chine like a maverick because it makes things simpler for the builder. 

If someone wanted to do a rounded bow I could create a one off set of plans for a fee. It wouldn't be too bad because doesn't require any new bulkheads etc. That's another thing I want to offer that others don't: the ability for customers to work with me to tweak elements of the design like that to their liking.


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## RCB Designs

RCB Designs said:


> Thanks, was trying to fit that exact niche you mentioned. It is possible to have a fully rounded bow like that with S and G. That hard, straight bow was actually the main stylistic element I mulled for a while. Eventually went with the straight shape above the chine like a maverick because it makes things simpler for the builder.
> 
> If someone wanted to do a rounded bow I could create a one off set of plans for a fee. It wouldn't be too bad because doesn't require any new bulkheads etc. That's another thing I want to offer that others don't: the ability for customers to work with me to tweak elements of the design like that to their liking.


It could be softened a bit just with shaping the material and fairing putty too


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## Littlefish

Yes, I thought it could be partly stitched together, then sneak up on a rounder bow by using a multi tool with a very good blade, shave a little off at a time symmetrically, and keep the hard chine below waterline by ending it a little sooner.
Great combination of ideas you've put together there.


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## RCB Designs

Littlefish said:


> Yes, I thought it could be partly stitched together, then sneak up on a rounder bow by using a multi tool with a very good blade, shave a little off at a time symmetrically, and keep the hard chine below waterline by ending it a little sooner.
> Great combination of ideas you've put together there.


That should work. Such is the beauty of a DIY build, you can make it exactly how you want. Thanks again for the support and please mention us to anyone you know who may be interested.


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## trekker

Have you built a hull from your plans?


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## K3anderson

Sublime said:


> I know several people itching to build a super light glades skiff type hull. I'm guessing if done correctly a hull with two guys of modest weight would draft 4" - 5", leaving some chine above the waterline?


I already did. It nowhere near that weight either. Poles and runs its draft Poling in actual 4.5” measured with one person and running with two people


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## RCB Designs

trekker said:


> Have you built a hull from your plans?











RCB Designs Pusherman 18 Build


Hi everyone, In this thread I'll be documenting my own build going on right now of our Pusherman 18 skiff. This is a long, relatively narrow, and ultra simple design on the same dimensions as a glades skiff. I'm building it S and G in meranti plywood and epoxy. Designed for a sub-6 inch...




www.microskiff.com




S18 Pusherman being built now, client will start an S16 this summer. I'll build a FM 16 myself most likely next, but it's the same hull geometry as the S16 more or less, plus a reverse chine and a spray rail.

Scale models of all boats are being built before the design is released to ensure fitment.


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## RCB Designs

K3anderson said:


> I already did. It nowhere near that weight either. Poles and runs its draft Poling in actual 4.5” measured with one person


Nice, I'm excited to run the S18 P because I've never owned a glades style skiff but it should be perfect for me. I mostly sight fish mosquito lagoon and the nature coast. Mine is probably going to come out around 250 lbs.

All our estimates for weight, capacity, hp, draft etc are rather conservative and our layup schedules are on the beefier side. People can build lighter if they want at their own risk.


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## RCB Designs

Little preview of the next series. High freeboard and wider beam Lake/Bay skiff series.


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## RCB Designs

Flats Master 14 Full Plans, License, DXF File, and Full Sized Templates — Flood Tide Boatworks


This package includes a full detailed plans document with layups, dimensioned assembly drawings, and other information in addition to a DXF file for those who want to CNC their parts and full sized templates for those who want to print and trace them. The FM14 is a true microskiff designed to perfo




rockycreekboatdesigns.com





The Flats Master 14 is now published and live. Check out the link for specs and additional info. A true microskiff for those who want an easy to build skiff in a small package that doesn't compromise on silent, fish stalking performance.


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## RCB Designs

Also...
It's become clear to me that people are understandably hesitant to buy plans until hulls have been built. Sadly, I can't build one of each myself, but in addition to the Spartina 18 P I'm building, I will try to find time to put together some better quality wood models of the other boats. All boats get a quick cardstock model to check fitment before publishing them, but here is the FM 16 1/9 scale model I'm building out of basswood. As you can see, despite the small scale, it all fit together well. This was built using the same build technique as the full scale one, with templates to trace and cut all bulkheads and panels (or DXF for CNCing them), mounting the bulkheads, and stitching and gluing the hull panels on them. Will probably finish this model off nicely with epoxy for showing in the future.


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## david.riina

the boat design looks nice!!!!

but....

you are doing yourself a disservice with those little models... people want to see, touch, etc etc etc etc.

the quicker you get a real boat built, with pictures, video of it on plane, showing how it rides how dry it is etc etc.

the quicker you'll start selling them.

like i said earlier find someone interested in building one and give them a set of plans for free for building the first one.


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## Wk05

david.riina said:


> the boat design looks nice!!!!
> 
> but....
> 
> you are doing yourself a disservice with those little models... people want to see, touch, etc etc etc etc.
> 
> the quicker you get a real boat built, with pictures, video of it on plane, showing how it rides how dry it is etc etc.
> 
> the quicker you'll start selling them.
> 
> like i said earlier find someone interested in building one and give them a set of plans for free for building the first one.


I’d volunteer to build one of the 14’ models! Been looking for something like this to get my feet wet - carpenter by trade but have been dying to build a boat! @RCB Designs shoot me a DM, id love to go over a few things with you!


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## RCB Designs

david.riina said:


> the boat design looks nice!!!!
> 
> but....
> 
> you are doing yourself a disservice with those little models... people want to see, touch, etc etc etc etc.
> 
> the quicker you get a real boat built, with pictures, video of it on plane, showing how it rides how dry it is etc etc.
> 
> the quicker you'll start selling them.
> 
> like i said earlier find someone interested in building one and give them a set of plans for free for building the first one.


Working on it! The models just show that the plans work in terms of the developed surfaces fitting nicely. 

The S 18 P could be wet tested poled, and brought up on plane as soon as next week depending on if I decide to finish all the surface finishing and painting of the hull first.


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## RCB Designs

Wk05 said:


> I’d volunteer to build one of the 14’ models! Been looking for something like this to get my feet wet - carpenter by trade but have been dying to build a boat! @RCB Designs shoot me a DM, id love to go over a few things with you!


Sounds great, DM'd you my phone number, feel free to call or text whenever. Thanks


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## Bubbarjh

Following


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## Littlefish

What designs are coming out next? The FM 18 or the lake and bay series? Ive got the itch really bad to build something, may start on my old canoe-to-square stern skiff project 1st for glass practice, it's been a few decades.


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## RCB Designs

Littlefish said:


> What designs are coming out next? The FM 18 or the lake and bay series? Ive got the itch really bad to build something, may start on my old canoe-to-square stern skiff project 1st for glass practice, it's been a few decades.


I’m away seeing my grandparents right now so progress is slow for a couple weeks, but I just posted an Instagram update with what’s coming. Next I intend to get some variety in the lineup with a couple of V bottom higher freeboard skiffs. First one is called the Mojarra 17 and I’m really excited about that. Then I’ve got a Lake/bay 16 that could come out afterwards, or the FM18 could be finished before it if you want that design. Both are done but awaiting the conversion of the design to usable templates and DXF, which takes a while. Been sitting on them for quite a while since I was focused on finishing the S18 hull number 1.


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## RCB Designs

Mojarra 17 and Lake/Bay 16 respectively.


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## Littlefish

Nice! I wonder if there'd be a market for a stitch and glue Panga here. Those things can do flats and offshore within reason.


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## RCB Designs

Littlefish said:


> Nice! I wonder if there'd be a market for a stitch and glue Panga here. Those things can do flats and offshore within reason.


I know there are some other pangaesque S and G designs out there. The mojarra is inspired by some of the great features of a panga and a v bottom work skiff such as Louis Sauzadde’s 23 ft New England work skiff. I may build that one next.


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