# dammit man!



## whoislang (Jul 29, 2020)

keep us updated if they tell you WHY it failed...


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## CKEAT (Aug 26, 2015)

Did you have the reinforcement kit on it? Was it binding up when actuating before failure?

@HullMarineProducts has a kit out that I have and will be going on my new boat. Might check it out.


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## HullMarineProducts (Apr 17, 2020)

Send me a message - I'd like to see some photos of your plate. Like @CKEAT said, I have reinforcement kits in stock that should keep that actuator from failing again.

Thanks.
Tyler


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## NativeBone (Aug 16, 2017)

CKEAT said:


> Did you have the reinforcement kit on it? Was it binding up when actuating before failure?
> 
> @HullMarineProducts has a kit out that I have and will be going on my new boat. Might check it out.


Can't say for certain if I noticed any binding. Since I am stuck with the JP I will check out the kit! Thanks!


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## NativeBone (Aug 16, 2017)

HullMarineProducts said:


> Send me a message - I'd like to see some photos of your plate. Like @CKEAT said, I have reinforcement kits in stock that should keep that actuator from failing again.
> 
> Thanks.
> Tyler


Will do!


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

whoislang said:


> keep us updated if they tell you WHY it failed...


Because they are pieces of shit! Get the reinforcement kit from Hull Marine, it’s the best band aid for a terrible design.


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## NativeBone (Aug 16, 2017)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Because they are pieces of shit! Get the reinforcement kit from Hull Marine, it’s the best band aid for a terrible design.


I hear you! I was ready to spend the money for the BOBS and cut my loss. I am pissed that I have to remove everything. Thanks


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## jonterr (Mar 24, 2013)

NativeBone said:


> So, after 3 months if little use, my atlas jackplate failed. After some troubleshooting and speaking with folks @ Atlas/CMC, the actuator is the culprit. I cannot stress enough when I say, "little" use. Anyhow, they will be sending a replacement under warranty. So, while I am glad its under warranty, I am not happy with the fact I have to remove the motor and jackplate to replace the actuator
> I said the hell with it- I reached out to Bob's Manufacturing and requested a drawing sheet to verify some overall dimensions, etc before placing an order..... and here is the dammit part- the footprint will not fit The Ankona copperhead only has a 17.5" between the spoons and Bobs jack plate width is 18.25". dammit man! Who would have ever thought!
> Crap
> I have a Copperhead and was planning on a Bobs
> Is that the smallest they have I guess?


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## Str8-Six (Jul 6, 2015)

NativeBone said:


> So, after 3 months if little use, my atlas jackplate failed. After some troubleshooting and speaking with folks @ Atlas/CMC, the actuator is the culprit. I cannot stress enough when I say, "little" use. Anyhow, they will be sending a replacement under warranty. So, while I am glad its under warranty, I am not happy with the fact I have to remove the motor and jackplate to replace the actuator
> I said the hell with it- I reached out to Bob's Manufacturing and requested a drawing sheet to verify some overall dimensions, etc before placing an order..... and here is the dammit part- the footprint will not fit The Ankona copperhead only has a 17.5" between the spoons and Bobs jack plate width is 18.25". dammit man! Who would have ever thought!


That sucks. You could fill in the sponsons and create a flat stern. Not really a cost friendly solution but it’s a thought I had when I had my copperhead for other reasons.


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

@jonterr yes, if you have a clamp on style motor, then they have narrower plates. But if you have a bolt-on motor, 18.25" width is what you get.


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## NativeBone (Aug 16, 2017)

Str8-Six said:


> That sucks. You could fill in the sponsons and create a flat stern. Not really a cost friendly solution but it’s a thought I had when I had my copperhead for other reasons.


Thanks!
I was surprised and disappointed finding out the Bob's JP would not fit. Like, there is no standard? Perhaps overthinking and just pissed I have to remove the setup and gamble this may happen again.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

mine failed about 4 years ago but has been fine since, and I can't say I have given it ANY maintenance lol since I replaced the actuator on warranty. my boat is 20 years old and had a Bob's on it from the manufacturer. I took it off 5 years or so ago and went with the microjacker because the bobs was too tall for my transom and was knocking down the plume from my tunnel. that 20 year old Bobs is now on the skiff we rebuilt for my grandson and going strong. I also have a Bob's on my other skiff and it has been flawless. Bob's are the best.


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## Capnredfish (Feb 1, 2012)

Narrow a Bobs


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Capnredfish said:


> Narrow a Bobs


See if Bob’s can do it, they are a machine shop!


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## Capnredfish (Feb 1, 2012)

Not sure of your HP. But this Bob’s should fit.


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## NativeBone (Aug 16, 2017)

^ 70hp


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

Bob's is NOT a machine shop anymore. all they do is build the products on their website. I've been there several times. When I dropped my lower unit off for the low water nosecone I asked if they could remove a broken off bolt. the guy laughed and said they didn't do any work like that. I said but it's a machine shop. he said all they do is manufacture jack plates these days. they do have a hell of a nice set up for that.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

devrep said:


> Bob's is NOT a machine shop anymore. all they do is build the products on their website. I've been there several times. When I dropped my lower unit off for the low water nosecone I asked if they could remove a broken off bolt. the guy laughed and said they didn't do any work like that. I said but it's a machine shop. he said all they do is manufacture jack plates these days. they do have a hell of a nice set up for that.


They could if they would.


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## Bmgfish32 (Apr 25, 2020)

I feel your pain! I had my second one go out while on a trip to Florida this past week. The boat is only a year and a half old......


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## HullMarineProducts (Apr 17, 2020)

Bmgfish32 said:


> I feel your pain! I had my second one go out while on a trip to Florida this past week. The boat is only a year and a half old......


I've got 9 reinforcement kits sitting here ready to go... Just saying. Also - if you can get the actuator off and send it to me, I could take it apart and look at it. Not saying I can fix it, but it may be possible depending on how the failure occurred.

-Tyler


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## NativeBone (Aug 16, 2017)

Send me the instructions and I will send payment. I assume the pics I sent you were able to verify the kit will fit?


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## Bmgfish32 (Apr 25, 2020)

HullMarineProducts said:


> I've got 9 reinforcement kits sitting here ready to go... Just saying. Also - if you can get the actuator off and send it to me, I could take it apart and look at it. Not saying I can fix it, but it may be possible depending on how the failure occurred.
> 
> -Tyler


Do you know the average cost of the replacement actuators by chance? I'm on the fence between fixing it or just getting a Bob's.


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## NativeBone (Aug 16, 2017)

Bmgfish32 said:


> Do you know the average cost of the replacement actuators by chance? I'm on the fence between fixing it or just getting a Bob's.


$400 last I checked


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## NativeBone (Aug 16, 2017)

Bmgfish32 said:


> Do you know the average cost of the replacement actuators by chance? I'm on the fence between fixing it or just getting a Bob's.


Go with bobs


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## Zika (Aug 6, 2015)

That sucks. I thought a fellow Mosquito owner had a Bob's on his, but after reading this thread he confirmed it is an Atlas. I just spoke with Bob's regarding my order and they confirmed the standard 4-inch is 18.25 at the transom. The self-contained unit is the same and the discontinued Ultralight was only an inch narrower. Hate that for NativeBone and for me. Really wanted to make the switch. Ordering a Hull Marine Products kit instead. Dammit man!!


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## NativeBone (Aug 16, 2017)

Zika said:


> That sucks. I thought a fellow Mosquito owner had a Bob's on his, but after reading this thread he confirmed it is an Atlas. I just spoke with Bob's regarding my order and they confirmed the standard 4-inch is 18.25 at the transom. The self-contained unit is the same and the discontinued Ultralight was only an inch narrower. Hate that for NativeBone and for me. Really wanted to make the switch. Ordering a Hull Marine Products kit instead. Dammit man!!


Yelp! I was willing to eat the bad investment just to get away from it. Very disappointed to discover the Bob's JP will not fit🤜


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## Zika (Aug 6, 2015)

HullMarineProducts said:


> I've got 9 reinforcement kits sitting here ready to go... Just saying. Also - if you can get the actuator off and send it to me, I could take it apart and look at it. Not saying I can fix it, but it may be possible depending on how the failure occurred.
> 
> -Tyler


Just ordered a kit and hardware from Hull Marine Products.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

HullMarineProducts said:


> I've got 9 reinforcement kits sitting here ready to go... Just saying. Also - if you can get the actuator off and send it to me, I could take it apart and look at it. Not saying I can fix it, but it may be possible depending on how the failure occurred.
> 
> -Tyler


does the actuator have to come off to install your reinforcement kit?


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## HullMarineProducts (Apr 17, 2020)

devrep said:


> does the actuator have to come off to install your reinforcement kit?


Yes and no. The engine needs to come off for sure. The actuator doesn't need to be fully removed but it needs to be rotated up and out of the way. Unfortunately, I tried to stand on my head and work some magic, but this was really the most effective way of reinforcing the plate without reinventing the wheel or designing something that would not be affordable.


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## copperhead (May 30, 2008)

NativeBone said:


> .... and here is the dammit part- the footprint will not fit The Ankona copperhead only has a 17.5" between the spoons and Bobs jack plate width is 18.25". dammit man! Who would have ever thought!


Its been awhile since I've done this but the "too wide" part of the Bob's is right at the transom mounting plate (or used to be). I've used a small air saw and die grinder to take out a bit of the hull/deck joint about 2 inches long right at the transom. then you can drop the Bob's plate straight down to install. Finish off the new edge to keep watertight, but it won't affect the hull/deck integrity...

Food for thought....


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

HullMarineProducts said:


> Yes and no. The engine needs to come off for sure. The actuator doesn't need to be fully removed but it needs to be rotated up and out of the way. Unfortunately, I tried to stand on my head and work some magic, but this was really the most effective way of reinforcing the plate without reinventing the wheel or designing something that would not be affordable.


when I had to replace my actuator years ago it had to be cut off. bolt was seized. I was told by one of their reps that this was usually the case. have any of your customers run into this when installing your kit?


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## HullMarineProducts (Apr 17, 2020)

devrep said:


> when I had to replace my actuator years ago it had to be cut off. bolt was seized. I was told by one of their reps that this was usually the case. have any of your customers run into this when installing your kit?


Yes, most people run into this problem. Myself included which is why I offer replacement hardware as an add-on, consisting of a new bolt and nut, and a long and short aluminum spacer. I just highly recommend anyone reinstalling lube the hell out of the ID of the spacers and the bolt to keep it from seizing again. I had to cut mine but once it is cut out the ends come out of the plates pretty easily... The hardest part is you may need a hydraulic press or air chisel to get the portion of the bolt out of the actuator. Do not attempt to drill it out as you'll almost certainly destroy the actuator. Once it is off though you can turn it upside down and put it into a container full of PB Blaster - should help.










Replacement Hardware


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## Ruddy Duck LA (Jun 23, 2017)

Had the same problem and wish I could fit a Bob's on my Mosquito.

The Atlas instructions recommend that the bolts on the four corners be loose enough to rotate the washers at all elevations. I have found this to be impossible. When the motor is jacked up, some washers can be spun while others cannot. When the motor is jacked down, the opposite happens. If I loosen them more, I'm afraid they will back out while I'm running. I can hear the actuator strain at certain positions. I really hate that I'm stuck with the Atlas. 

My first one failed at 13 months. I'm a couple years into my second one.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

I didn't have any problem adjusting so that the washers are all slightly loose...didn't check it in the up position but as long as they are correct in the down position I'm ok with it.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)




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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)




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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)




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## NativeBone (Aug 16, 2017)

@Smackdaddy53 
Nicely done! Will be doing the same soon.
Ordered the kit today


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

NativeBone said:


> @Smackdaddy53
> Nicely done! Will be doing the same soon.
> Ordered the kit today


Thanks. It tightened everything up very well. This plate was fairly new and the bolt had to be cut because it was corrosion welded inside the aluminum sleeve. If I were you guys I’d plan on buying the bolt and sleeves along with the kit no matter how old the unit is. Dissimilar metal corrosion begins instantly.


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## m32825 (Jun 29, 2018)

@Smackdaddy53, is that some kind of extension you have on your angle grinder to give it more reach?


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## SkiffaDeeDooDah (Jan 20, 2020)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Thanks. It tightened everything up very well. This plate was fairly new and the bolt had to be cut because it was corrosion welded inside the aluminum sleeve. If I were you guys I’d plan on buying the bolt and sleeves along with the kit no matter how old the unit is. Dissimilar metal corrosion begins instantly.


Why not add a sacrificial anode somewhere on the plate while you're at it? If there's space of course. Good work with the Tef-Gel Smack!


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

SkiffaDeeDooDah said:


> Why not add a sacrificial anode somewhere on the plate while you're at it? If there's space of course. Good work with the Tef-Gel Smack!


There’s a few on the outboard, if they start deteriorating faster maybe the owner will add one.


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## CKEAT (Aug 26, 2015)

Now that’s a proper install, that tef gel is legit, great stuff. Very nice @Smackdaddy53!


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## Zika (Aug 6, 2015)

Nice visual tutorial, Smack. I'll flag it for my tech when he installs my kit with hardware and the new engine.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

CKEAT said:


> Now that’s a proper install, that tef gel is legit, great stuff. Very nice @Smackdaddy53!


Like Frank’s Hot Sauce...I put that shit on everything! 
Thanks


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## CKEAT (Aug 26, 2015)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Like Frank’s Hot Sauce...I put that shit on everything!
> Thanks


Hahaha, no doubt!


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## hipshot (Sep 29, 2018)

I wish I’d known about about Tef Gel when I was working on my motorcycle. Thet Never Seize is some nasty stuff. Works great, but messy.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

hipshot said:


> I wish I’d known about about Tef Gel when I was working on my motorcycle. Thet Never Seize is some nasty stuff. Works great, but messy.


Some of that Never-Seez has copper or other metal powder in it and will cause even worse dissimilar metal issues. TefGel is PTFE


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## HullMarineProducts (Apr 17, 2020)

Ruddy Duck LA said:


> Had the same problem and wish I could fit a Bob's on my Mosquito.
> 
> The Atlas instructions recommend that the bolts on the four corners be loose enough to rotate the washers at all elevations. I have found this to be impossible. When the motor is jacked up, some washers can be spun while others cannot. When the motor is jacked down, the opposite happens. If I loosen them more, I'm afraid they will back out while I'm running. I can hear the actuator strain at certain positions. I really hate that I'm stuck with the Atlas.
> 
> My first one failed at 13 months. I'm a couple years into my second one.


I've got 6 more kits on the shelf... $150 is much cheaper than $400 for a new actuator. You don't have to worry about having spinning washers with my kit - all four bolts get torqued down to 45 ft-lbs. The OE design is absolute garbage from an engineering standpoint in many ways.

-Tyler


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## HullMarineProducts (Apr 17, 2020)

PS - I just received a new batch of spacers for the Actuator Hardware - they will all be anodized from here on out to help with the galvanic corrosion issues. 

If anyone is interested I can also offer anodizing services on the Micro Jack itself. Please message me if interested. Can do Black/Blue/Silver/Red/Gold. Pricing is TBD. I wouldn't recommend on a used jackplate but a new one would look great anodized and help with any corrosion issues.


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## jonterr (Mar 24, 2013)

HullMarineProducts said:


> PS - I just received a new batch of spacers for the Actuator Hardware - they will all be anodized from here on out to help with the galvanic corrosion issues.
> 
> If anyone is interested I can also offer anodizing services on the Micro Jack itself. Please message me if interested. Can do Black/Blue/Silver/Red/Gold. Pricing is TBD. I wouldn't recommend on a used jackplate but a new one would look great anodized and help with any corrosion issues.


I wouldn’t mind having a new 1 to put on the Copprthead 😀


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## RJTaylor (Oct 4, 2017)

Is the kit able to be installed without removing the transom bracket?


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## HullMarineProducts (Apr 17, 2020)

RJTaylor said:


> Is the kit able to be installed without removing the transom bracket?


Yes, but since you need to drill out the existing 1/2-13" threaded holes to 0.500" you may need special tooling depending on your transom arrangement. If you have sponsons, you will need a right angle drill to drill from the inside out. A flat transom you can drill from the outsides no problem so long as there are no other attachments in the way.

To be completely honest, since you are going from 1/2-13 thread to 0.500", you could potentially remove the threads quite easily with a 1/2" drill bit and some vice grips, but that's totally up to you if you want to do that.


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Just ordered both the reinforcement plates and actuator piece for my still in the box Micro Jacker.


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## RJTaylor (Oct 4, 2017)

HullMarineProducts said:


> Yes, but since you need to drill out the existing 1/2-13" threaded holes to 0.500" you may need special tooling depending on your transom arrangement. If you have sponsons, you will need a right angle drill to drill from the inside out. A flat transom you can drill from the outsides no problem so long as there are no other attachments in the way.
> 
> To be completely honest, since you are going from 1/2-13 thread to 0.500", you could potentially remove the threads quite easily with a 1/2" drill bit and some vice grips, but that's totally up to you if you want to do that.


Thanks. I have a right angle drill already, and just placed an order.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Removing the entire plate is probably the best way if you have a keyslot transom. I removed the actuator and set it on the deck since they had the wire exiting the transom all sealed up and I did not want to have to tamper with the wiring.


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## NativeBone (Aug 16, 2017)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Removing the entire plate is probably the best way if you have a keyslot transom. I removed the actuator and set it on the deck since they had the wire exiting the transom all sealed up and I did not want to have to tamper with the wiring.


Do you have a pic of the wiring? Trying to figure out an alternative option seeing I have to remove the unit. Thanks!


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

NativeBone said:


> Do you have a pic of the wiring? Trying to figure out an alternative option seeing I have to remove the unit. Thanks!


No, I already delivered the boat. Here’s the outside of the Mosquito. The wiring is pretty straightforward.


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## NativeBone (Aug 16, 2017)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> No, I already delivered the boat. Here’s the outside of the Mosquito. The wiring is pretty straightforward.
> View attachment 175213


Perfect! Thanks Smack!


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## Zika (Aug 6, 2015)

Received my Hull Products kit yesterday. It's very robust with quality components and welding. Will have my tech install it when he rigs the new outboard (whenever it comes in).


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## NativeBone (Aug 16, 2017)

Zika said:


> Received my Hull Products kit yesterday. It's very robust with quality components and welding. Will have my tech install it when he rigs the new outboard (whenever it comes in).


Great! I should have my kit by Tuesday and installed by the end of week.


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## NativeBone (Aug 16, 2017)

So, received the Hull Products kit yesterday and just finished the install. @Smackdaddy53 did a great job showing the process step by step so no need to cover the same material. I did take a few pics along the way. The kit is robust and has a good feel when engaged. I definitely recommend to all to the purchase the 9" long 1/2" bolt. I only had the unit for 3 months with very little use but found the bolt to be a little difficult to remove. 








^ the old unit









^ 1/2-13 threaded holes drilled out to 1/2" cleaned and deburred 









^ new unit installed with the @HullMarineProducts


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

My kit should be here tomorrow. I ordered the actuator piece as well. Was a no brainer.


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## ElLobo (Sep 14, 2020)

NativeBone said:


> So, received the Hull Products kit yesterday and just finished the install. @Smackdaddy53 did a great job showing the process step by step so no need to cover the same material. I did take a few pics along the way. The kit is robust and has a good feel when engaged. I definitely recommend to all to the purchase the 9" long 1/2" bolt. I only had the unit for 3 months with very little use but found the bolt to be a little difficult to remove.
> View attachment 175608
> 
> ^ the old unit
> ...


Hahaha - "Another quality product from TH Marine supplies". If only you didnt have to add a secondary product to make it quality


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## RJTaylor (Oct 4, 2017)

Sublime said:


> My kit should be here tomorrow. I ordered the actuator piece as well. Was a no brainer.


Think mine will be as well. Your install is going to be easier than mine though.


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## salt_fly (Apr 23, 2012)

HullMarineProducts said:


> Yes, most people run into this problem. Myself included which is why I offer replacement hardware as an add-on, consisting of a new bolt and nut, and a long and short aluminum spacer. I just highly recommend anyone reinstalling lube the hell out of the ID of the spacers and the bolt to keep it from seizing again. I had to cut mine but once it is cut out the ends come out of the plates pretty easily... The hardest part is you may need a hydraulic press or air chisel to get the portion of the bolt out of the actuator. Do not attempt to drill it out as you'll almost certainly destroy the actuator. Once it is off though you can turn it upside down and put it into a container full of PB Blaster - should help.
> 
> View attachment 175009
> 
> ...


Why not make the new spacers out of stainless steel to prevent the dis-similar metal corrosion?


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

salt_fly said:


> Why not make the new spacers out of stainless steel to prevent the dis-similar metal corrosion?


Coat the new bolt with TefGel and there is no need to use stainless sleeves.


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## hipshot (Sep 29, 2018)

Also, those stainless spacers would be nestled into the recesses of the aluminum actuator body. Like Mac says, Tef Gel is the solution.


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## CKEAT (Aug 26, 2015)

I can’t say enough about the tef gel, as soon as I receive my new boat I will be removing the engine / jack plate and coat all areas with it first thing. Trailer as well. It’s that useful.


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## jonterr (Mar 24, 2013)

NativeBone said:


> So, received the Hull Products kit yesterday and just finished the install. @Smackdaddy53 did a great job showing the process step by step so no need to cover the same material. I did take a few pics along the way. The kit is robust and has a good feel when engaged. I definitely recommend to all to the purchase the 9" long 1/2" bolt. I only had the unit for 3 months with very little use but found the bolt to be a little difficult to remove.
> View attachment 175608
> 
> ^ the old unit
> ...


If I order a new atlas and a kit, is it an easy install, or do I still have to drill crap out?


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## NativeBone (Aug 16, 2017)

jonterr said:


> If I order a new atlas and a kit, is it an easy install, or do I still have to drill crap out?


Yes, easy to install- BUT you will need to drill open the (4) existing tapped holes. Not much material to remove, approx .080".


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## salt_fly (Apr 23, 2012)

hipshot said:


> Also, those stainless spacers would be nestled into the recesses of the aluminum actuator body. Like Mac says, Tef Gel is the solution.


How about a tight fitting, very tough plastic (Delrin?) washer around the bolt and between the aluminum actuator body and the stainless steel spacer plus lots of Tef-Gel?
Minimal dissimilar contact and cheap!


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Why are people trying to change the setup Hull Marine has come up with? There is no reason to change anything just use TefGel and it’s done...problem solved. I don’t think you guys understand what all is involved in fabricating and selling these products. Over complicating it costs more and changing things up costs time and money for the fabricator. You could probably trim the sleeves and add your own Delrin washers but tolerances would probably be skewed and then you have fitment issues.


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## jonterr (Mar 24, 2013)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Why are people trying to change the setup Hull Marine has come up with? There is no reason to change anything just use TefGel and it’s done...problem solved. I don’t think you guys understand what all is involved in fabricating and selling these products. Over complicating it costs more and changing things up costs time and money for the fabricator. You could probably trim the sleeves and add your own Delrin washers but tolerances would probably be skewed and then you have fitment issues.





NativeBone said:


> So, after 3 months if little use, my atlas jackplate failed. After some troubleshooting and speaking with folks @ Atlas/CMC, the actuator is the culprit. I cannot stress enough when I say, "little" use. Anyhow, they will be sending a replacement under warranty. So, while I am glad its under warranty, I am not happy with the fact I have to remove the motor and jackplate to replace the actuator
> I said the hell with it- I reached out to Bob's Manufacturing and requested a drawing sheet to verify some overall dimensions, etc before placing an order..... and here is the dammit part- the footprint will not fit The Ankona copperhead only has a 17.5" between the spoons and Bobs jack plate width is 18.25". dammit man! Who would have ever thought!


does anyone with a Bobs know if you trimmed off enough on each sides to make it fit if there would still be bolt holes to work on a copperhead?
Nobody up here has a Bobs that I’ve ever seen, but I’d like to go that route if possible
Thanks


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## NativeBone (Aug 16, 2017)

jonterr said:


> does anyone with a Bobs know if you trimmed off enough on each sides to make it fit if there would still be bolt holes to work on a copperhead?
> Nobody up here has a Bobs that I’ve ever seen, but I’d like to go that route if possible
> Thanks


Looking at the dimensions below, I wouldn't think so. At least not without triggering other modifications. I considered the same but I decided against it.


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## copperhead (May 30, 2008)

jonterr said:


> does anyone with a Bobs know if you trimmed off enough on each sides to make it fit if there would still be bolt holes to work on a copperhead?
> Nobody up here has a Bobs that I’ve ever seen, but I’d like to go that route if possible
> Thanks


See my post #31 this thread if you want to use Bob's....


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## HullMarineProducts (Apr 17, 2020)

All, in regard to the dissimilar metals, etc. To be completely transparent, making the spacers out of stainless would cost more than double than making them out of aluminum. If this were a frequently maintained part I would probably say it would be worth it but for most, this is going to be a one time replacement. As Mac said, there's no reason to overcomplicate it. Going with anodizing and tef-gel is probably the best way to keep the galvanic corrosion to a minimum and not charge double what I'm charging for the hardware.

I will comment on utilizing delrin spacers on the ends of the sleeve - I would not recommend this. Reason being, if you remove the clamp-load or torque on that long bolt and spacers, try running your jackplate up and down - it severely loosens everything up and causes much more bending in that 9" bolt. A delrin spacer would not be able to hold that torque for very long and you would repeatedly have to re-torque... Eventually the delrin would just mushroom out of the slot and you'd have all sorts of other issues.

I will note that the aluminum spacer and 9" bolt setup is probably the second biggest issue with this jackplate. The proper solution here would be to use a 1"x1", or larger, aluminum bar to span this area. The amount of flex you get in the bolt/spacer setup can potentially cause issues, but ensuring that your engine is mounted securely should inhibit most of the flex.

Also - I'll leave this here - going to try to have a working prototype in the next month or two. 6" lift and projected weight with actuator is sub 30lbs. Should be good for a 70hp weight and below. Still need to do some FEA.


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## HullMarineProducts (Apr 17, 2020)

jonterr said:


> does anyone with a Bobs know if you trimmed off enough on each sides to make it fit if there would still be bolt holes to work on a copperhead?
> Nobody up here has a Bobs that I’ve ever seen, but I’d like to go that route if possible
> Thanks


I think it would be possible to machine a specific section out of the bobs around the Delrin slide bearing to get it to fit but that would require a lot of measurement and research, plus disassembly and reassembly for machining.


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## SkiffaDeeDooDah (Jan 20, 2020)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Like Frank’s Hot Sauce...I put that shit on everything!
> Thanks


Me too!! Started with it on Buffalo Wings 30 years ago. Now - Everthing, LOL!


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## jonterr (Mar 24, 2013)

HullMarineProducts said:


> All, in regard to the dissimilar metals, etc. To be completely transparent, making the spacers out of stainless would cost more than double than making them out of aluminum. If this were a frequently maintained part I would probably say it would be worth it but for most, this is going to be a one time replacement. As Mac said, there's no reason to overcomplicate it. Going with anodizing and tef-gel is probably the best way to keep the galvanic corrosion to a minimum and not charge double what I'm charging for the hardware.
> 
> I will comment on utilizing delrin spacers on the ends of the sleeve - I would not recommend this. Reason being, if you remove the clamp-load or torque on that long bolt and spacers, try running your jackplate up and down - it severely loosens everything up and causes much more bending in that 9" bolt. A delrin spacer would not be able to hold that torque for very long and you would repeatedly have to re-torque... Eventually the delrin would just mushroom out of the slot and you'd have all sorts of other issues.
> 
> ...


Electric?


SkiffaDeeDooDah said:


> Me too!! Started with it on Buffalo Wings 30 years ago. Now - Everthing, LOL!


kind of off the subject but awesome on shrimp😀


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## HullMarineProducts (Apr 17, 2020)

jonterr said:


> Electric?
> 
> kind of off the subject but awesome on shrimp😀


It’s an electro-hydraulic actuator (EHA) like those used on the Atlas and Bobs plates but from a different manufacturer.

a ball-screw electric actuator is not ideal for this application due to the shock loads involved.


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## jonterr (Mar 24, 2013)

copperhead said:


> See my post #31 this thread if you want to use Bob's....


Hey Mel
I just got this boat
I’m not grinding on it😀


HullMarineProducts said:


> It’s an electro-hydraulic actuator (EHA) like those used on the Atlas and Bobs plates but from a different manufacturer.
> 
> a ball-screw electric actuator is not ideal for this application due to the shock loads involved.


I need 1 😀


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## HullMarineProducts (Apr 17, 2020)

jonterr said:


> Hey Mel
> I just got this boat
> I’m not grinding on it😀
> 
> I need 1 😀


I'm working on getting drawings put together this week and out to some shops for quotes! I'm gonna have to eat a good bit of cash on this first one but I designed it for manufacturing. Trying to keep costs to end users low - lower than the competition.


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## jonterr (Mar 24, 2013)

HullMarineProducts said:


> I'm working on getting drawings put together this week and out to some shops for quotes! I'm gonna have to eat a good bit of cash on this first one but I designed it for manufacturing. Trying to keep costs to end users low - lower than the competition.


If it will bolt on to a Copperhead and a 50 hp Etec Will bolt on to it and it’s not too far off, I’m interested 😀


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## jonterr (Mar 24, 2013)

jonterr said:


> If it will bolt on to a Copperhead and a 50 hp Etec Will bolt on to it and it’s not too far off, I’m interested 😀


By far off, I mean time wise😀


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## HullMarineProducts (Apr 17, 2020)

jonterr said:


> By far off, I mean time wise😀


Let me get some of these RFQs out for parts and see what seems feasible to me.


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## jonterr (Mar 24, 2013)

HullMarineProducts said:


> Let me get some of these RFQs out for parts and see what seems feasible to me.


Sounds good
I wouldn’t mind being a first guinea pig😀
I figure if you can improve an Atlas, you can prob build 1 better than them🤪


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