# Replacing teleflex steering



## Tilly_Copano (Feb 12, 2017)

My steering didn't completely seize up on me today, I was able to make it back home but it needs to be replaced. Can I just replace the steering cable or do I need to replace the entire unit, housing and all?

When I got home I took the cable out of the tilt tube and it's sticking bad every half turn or so of the wheel.

Any advice is appreciated, this is not going to be a fun project.


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## Tilly_Copano (Feb 12, 2017)

So I don't think it's a teleflex system. The only markings on the bottom say Planetary Gear Design. 

This is what I found online. 
http://www.ultraflexgroup.com/en/ca...and-t72fc-rotary-steering-systems.html?lang=2

Looks like I'm going to have to replace the entire system.


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## Capnredfish (Feb 1, 2012)

Always the best idea. How Old?


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## Tilly_Copano (Feb 12, 2017)

Capnredfish said:


> Always the best idea. How Old?


2002 HPX-T

What I don't get is why maverick would have used this brand. The only dealer I can find online is out of Australia.


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## Guest (Oct 28, 2018)

Agree with Capnredfish, replace the system as a whole! Cost isn’t that much more than just a cable swap and the piece of mind is priceless! The job isn’t too bad just pay attention and follow manufacturer’s instructions and torque accordingly.


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## Guest (Oct 28, 2018)

It’s the same as Uflex. So look for anyone that carries uflex.


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## dranrab (Oct 9, 2016)

Count me in with those who suggest replacing. Use a good no feedback system.


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## Tilly_Copano (Feb 12, 2017)

Well my steering wheel is seized. Any tips on how to remove?


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## Tilly_Copano (Feb 12, 2017)

dranrab said:


> Count me in with those who suggest replacing. Use a good no feedback system.


This is what I'm thinking https://www.wholesalemarine.com/safe-t-qc-rotary-steering-kit-by-teleflex.html


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## Guest (Oct 28, 2018)

Your replacing the helm anyway so back the nut off flush with threads, get a buddy to pull out on the wheel with force, whack end of shaft one hard time with BFH! If it don’t pop loose your buddy needs to pull harder lol!


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## Guest (Oct 28, 2018)

That’s a good system, but you’ll be happier with a no feed back system. What HP is your motor?


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## Tilly_Copano (Feb 12, 2017)

Boatbrains said:


> That’s a good system, but you’ll be happier with a no feed back system. What HP is your motor?


70 2 stroke

Your saying keep the nut off just a bit and hit as hard as you can with a hammer? Why leave the nut on?


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## Guest (Oct 28, 2018)

So your buddy don’t go flyin off the back of the boat when it pops loose. It’s a friction fit tapered shaft so when it comes it will be all at once. Leaving the nut on but loose will catch the wheel!


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

You can go with a Bay Star (Sea Star, but rated under 115hp) no-feed-back cable system for under $300, or or the Bay Star Hydraulic system for around $600+/-.


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## Austin Bustamante (May 11, 2015)

Go rent a 3 jaw puller and the wheel will come right off. Just replaced all mine with uflex stuff of amazon and got it dirt cheap open box stuff, just make sure you get the right helm station and angled plastic piece for your console.


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## Guest (Oct 29, 2018)

Austin Bustamante said:


> Go rent a 3 jaw puller and the wheel will come right off. Just replaced all mine with uflex stuff of amazon and got it dirt cheap open box stuff, just make sure you get the right helm station and angled plastic piece for your console.


Careful with the puller though, it can damage the wheel. If helm wasn’t being replaced, a puller is my first choice.


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

If I were replacing cable steering, I'd bite the bullet and go with hydraulic. As noted by Backwater, the Bay Star rig will cost you about $600 ($540.99 Amazon Prime).


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## State fish rob (Jan 25, 2017)

Pay attention to whether your cable feeds into top or bottom of helm 
It made difference w mine , small console. Had to cut last cable , would not release from helm. 20+ years old. Checked into tilt helm( I thought it would help while standing ) but cable needs to enter/exit @ 90° not enough rm for my application cool little unit tho Good luck


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## jonterr (Mar 24, 2013)

State fish rob said:


> Pay attention to whether your cable feeds into top or bottom of helm
> It made difference w mine , small console. Had to cut last cable , would not release from helm. 20+ years old. Checked into tilt helm( I thought it would help while standing ) but cable needs to enter/exit @ 90° not enough rm for my application cool little unit tho Good luck


What Vertigo said!!!


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## Tilly_Copano (Feb 12, 2017)

Why hydraulic steering? The old teleflex worked fine. 

Do you think I should replace the tilt tube or just clean it out?


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## jmrodandgun (Sep 20, 2013)

Tilly_Copano said:


> Why hydraulic steering?


Because life is better that way. 

Smoother easier turning. Zero feedback. Less of a hassle to install. Very little maintenance.


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## Guest (Oct 29, 2018)

If the cable came out of the tilt tibe easy and it’s not deteriorated from the outside, just buy a tilt tube brush that attaches to a drill and clean it. Grease new cable both inside and out before installing.


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## Tilly_Copano (Feb 12, 2017)

Boatbrains said:


> If the cable came out of the tilt tibe easy and it’s not deteriorated from the outside, just buy a tilt tube brush that attaches to a drill and clean it. Grease new cable both inside and out before installing.


It didn't come out to easy I had to tap it out... What grease should I be using on this? I used white lithium to grease it up a few months ago and I'm wondering if that caused this problem. When I pulled the cable out it was covered in dirty rusted grease.


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## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

Hydraulic is simply head and shoulders better than cable steering (but just like cable setups - each has its drawbacks and maintenance requirements).

When I first rigged my old Maverick (every bit of 30 years ago...) I installed Teleflex NFB steering (the NFB means "no feedback" -and it's referring to the hub...) and used it for years - then replaced it three times over the years before finally having the hydraulic installed. Wish I'd gone hydraulic from the first.... it's that much better. Cable will do, though, for smaller motors -and an NFB system will also work for bigger motors. Hydraulic works for everything and you really will be able to steer your rig with one finger if you choose... 

Remember cable steering is actually two components - the hub and the cable - and either one - the hub or the cable can cause trouble, so figuring out which component is causin trouble is the trick... (and once your steering starts binding your days are numbered....). Hydraulic actually has three major components - the hub, your hydraulic lines and your ram (the part that attaches to the motor and moves the motor when you turn that steering wheel... 

Great fun, keeping a boat running properly - if you have the money...

Hope this helps...


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## Guest (Oct 29, 2018)

Tilly_Copano said:


> It didn't come out to easy I had to tap it out... What grease should I be using on this? I used white lithium to grease it up a few months ago and I'm wondering if that caused this problem. When I pulled the cable out it was covered in dirty rusted grease.


Do get the brush I mentioned to clean the tube. “I have a true reamer” for this but you probably won’t need that.
I prefer the BRP triple gaurd for this application on all brands. The stuff is blue and very thick and sticky/tacky! But any quality water resistant grease will work.


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## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

Here's a second vote for BRP's "blue goo" - I've been using Triple Guard for years...


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## Guest (Oct 29, 2018)

lemaymiami said:


> Here's a second vote for BRP's "blue goo" - I've been using Triple Guard for years...


Out of them all, “and I’ve used them all” nothing sticks like triple gaurd!


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Boatbrains said:


> That’s a good system, but you’ll be happier with a no feed back system. What HP is your motor?


No feedback is what u want. I just installed the exact system pictured n torque steering is bad.....


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## Tilly_Copano (Feb 12, 2017)

Well I put the gear puller on the wheel and it just mushroomed in the bolt. I think my only next option is to cut the steering post behind the wheel and then drill out the bolt on a press...


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## Guest (Oct 30, 2018)

Tilly_Copano said:


> Well I put the gear puller on the wheel and it just mushroomed in the bolt. I think my only next option is to cut the steering post behind the wheel and then drill out the bolt on a press...


Almost sounds like someone lubed the shaft before torquing down the wheel allowing it to go on too far. Post some pics of what your workin with.


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## Tilly_Copano (Feb 12, 2017)




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## Guest (Oct 30, 2018)

Dayum! I’m sticken with someone lubed the shaft before installing the wheel.


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## Tilly_Copano (Feb 12, 2017)

Probably going to have to buy a new wheel and now the bolts that hold the mount are seized...


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## Guest (Oct 31, 2018)

Well, if ya think you need a new wheel ya might as well try lots of heat! Set it somewhere stable and flat. Heat her up good, using a large drift punch try smackin it out. The wheel will polish up.


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## SnookNocker (May 15, 2018)

Folks, he already has a NFB system. The Uflex Rotary system is a NFB system by design. I replaced a SeaStar NFB system with it and I can tell you that I like the Uflex system better. Also, their customer service is second to none. I had a problem with a cracked casing (because I switched sides after a year and bent the cable the other direction). One phone call and they sent a new cable out to me, no questions asked.


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