# Loose Screws: Center Console to Deck



## TroutTrent (Nov 29, 2016)

All, 

I have a 2001 15' Mitzi Battle-Wagon. Over the last year i have noticed the screws around the center console have gotten loose. It became typical after a rough day on the water or a long trailer ride the screws would have risen out of their holes. Back in September the ole' sled had a very rough day in the aftermath of Hurricane Sally on the east coat and I noticed that one or two of the screws could simply be lifted straight out of the holes. It should be noted that the boat had a restoration in 2014 and the console had been removed, refinished, and replaced at that time. 

The console seems to be 5400'd down and it does not feel loose, but I think it would be a bad day if it lifted during a run. The foam under the console seems dry and the boat is stored in a garage and now is the time for me to fix her up before she gets back to regular use. 

My question is: what is the best way to fix this? Bigger screws? 5200+screws? some other fix? I want to be sure that water inst getting into the hull and that she stays structurally sound for decades to come!


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## Zika (Aug 6, 2015)

Do you have access to underneath the deck via the console, such as a screw-out plate? You could through-bolt if so, but if not the current holes could be filled with MarineTex or fiberglass resin and then re-drilled once set.


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## TroutTrent (Nov 29, 2016)

I do not have access underneath the deck, I am able to look at pictures of the boats restoration (thanks social media) and it looks like the previous owner used some material to fill the holes and re screwed the bolts into the original locations with the new filler. 

I have never worked with MarineTex or fiberglass resin, could I just dump it into the holes? I would like to avoid completely removing the console to repair this.


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## Zika (Aug 6, 2015)

MarineTex is a two part epoxy that hardens when cured and can be sanded. It comes in white and gray paste. Assuming the screws went into the stringers (so they are not bottom-less cavities), you could mix a batch, fill each hole, let it cure at least 24 hours and then smooth and re-drill. I'm not familiar with Mitzi inner hull so maybe who ever did the restore or some other Mitzi owners could confirm. 

Most ship's stores or West Marine, etc. will carry MarineTex.


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## jay.bush1434 (Dec 27, 2014)

The quick but effective repair is to squeeze 5200 into the screw holes and screw them in but that only works if the screws still have something to bite into. If they are loose, you'll need to fill with resin, let dry, redrill the hole and screw down. I'd use a dab of 4200 or even UV 4000 to secure the screws.
The best way to repair is debond the console to deck flange, lift it up/move it out of the way and oversize drill the screw holes. Fill with fiberglass resin thickened with high density filler, redrill screw holes, and reinstall console and screws. Again, use a dab of 4200 on the screws.


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## Flatoutfly (Jun 11, 2020)

jay.bush1434 said:


> The quick but effective repair is to squeeze 5200 into the screw holes and screw them in but that only works if the screws still have something to bite into. If they are loose, you'll need to fill with resin, let dry, redrill the hole and screw down. I'd use a dab of 4200 or even UV 4000 to secure the screws.
> The best way to repair is debond the console to deck flange, lift it up/move it out of the way and oversize drill the screw holes. Fill with fiberglass resin thickened with high density filler, redrill screw holes, and reinstall console and screws. Again, use a dab of 4200 on the screws.


I kinda agree except you will NEVER get that console off with out major damage. The 5200 is doing more then the screws are or were holding the console in place. 5200 is for permeant mounting. West makes a high density epoxy paste that you can fill in the holes (make sure to clean holes first). You will have to redrill the holes and use 4200 when reinstalling the screws. I have owned a few large boats and it works. Be careful with that epoxy paste, it is nasty and doesn't come off anything once its hard.


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## BrownDog (Jun 22, 2019)

I’d just put a bigger screw in there, with some sealant, then go fishing.


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## fishnpreacher (Jul 28, 2018)

I've never had any luck filling holes and redrilling. I would fill the holes and make sure they were sealed water tight, then drill new holes. Don't secure the new screws with a drill, hand tighten so you don't strip them out.


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## Capnredfish (Feb 1, 2012)

Drill and clean the holes. Get a tube of Six-10 epoxy and squirt it in the holes. Cure, drill and replace screws. You can‘t add a deck plate inside console for access? Is it hollow under console where screws are? Could try SS snap togglers. Would require a larger hole and a washer. they make different sizes. SNAPTOGGLE® Heavy-Duty Toggle Bolts — 304 Stainless Steel Channels


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## Steve_Mevers (Feb 8, 2013)

BrownDog said:


> I’d just put a bigger screw in there, with some sealant, then go fishing.


Agree, you have plenty of room for bigger screws, remove them all drill the with the right size bit for the new screw, add some 4200 and put in new screws.


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## TroutTrent (Nov 29, 2016)

thanks all for all of the responses. ill look into the screw sizes and go through each screw to see how many are stripped out. 

Does anyone know what is under the deck of a Mitzi? I assume that it is a series of stringers and foam filled?


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## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

Here’s a tip that might tell you which way to go with that repair... Take an ice pick or a long nail (something smaller in diameter than those old screw holes - mark it with tape right at the length of the old screw then probe each old screw hole to see if the deck was actually supported at that point (or if the underside of the deck was filled with foam...).

I’m betting that the deck was all those screws had any purchase on -and that’s why they pulled free... From your description I’m also betting that your 5200 is the only thing holding that console in place and that the screws were only used to hold the console in place until the 5200 set up...

Don’t ask me what I think of that sort of marine construction... If I’m right re-fastening with one size larger screws and a bit more 5200 will sort you out for the short term since the existing 5200 is what’s actually holding the console in place... 

If that console does start moving though toggle bolts will be your only choice (look up Toggle bolts or their brand name “Togglers” on this site for info I’ve written about them in the past).

Hope this helps...

“Aren’t boats fun?”


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## jay.bush1434 (Dec 27, 2014)

Flatoutfly said:


> I kinda agree except you will NEVER get that console off with out major damage. The 5200 is doing more then the screws are or were holding the console in place. 5200 is for permeant mounting. West makes a high density epoxy paste that you can fill in the holes (make sure to clean holes first). You will have to redrill the holes and use 4200 when reinstalling the screws. I have owned a few large boats and it works. Be careful with that epoxy paste, it is nasty and doesn't come off anything once its hard.


The console not coming up is kind of the point. In any event, 5200 isn't the end all/be all of permanent adhesive sealants like people tend to believe it is. It will let go of a screw without too much force. There is also a polyurethane adhesive debonding agent you can buy. It works really good. Put a few drops on like Break-Free and let it sit for a while, then come back and start working it up.


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

There is no magic resin, epoxy, adhesive or anything else that can be squirted into an enlarged screw hole to make a decent fix. Not to worry, the 5200 is probably holding down the console such that it would take TNT to remove it. The only reliable fix for oversize screw holes is to drill out over sized, then epoxy in a plug, then when the epoxy has cured drill a proper sized screw hole in the plug. Since the console is firmly in place with 5200 and should be removed to drill out for plugs, unless you want to spend a week with razor knives cutting out the 5200, the plug option is out. A more primitive fix would be to just use larger screws. Toggle bolts are expensive, overkill and require big holes thru the console and washers on top of those big holes. 

There is one other crude but effective fix, not elegant but will keep the screws from popping out. Take a 1/8" or so wooden dowel or similar, dip the tip into epoxy and wedge it into the screw hole. When the epxoy cures, cut the dowel off flush. Screws will go back into the hole and grip tightly...they may hold for a month or they may hold until the boat goes to the landfill.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

fishnpreacher said:


> I've never had any luck filling holes and redrilling. I would fill the holes and make sure they were sealed water tight, then drill new holes.


I'm confused??? You say you have not had luck filling/drilling and then you recommend the same?

I have not had luck drilling either so I take a different approach. I drill out the hole and then fill it but before it starts to kick I push a screw in there slightly longer than the one I will use. Then when it is completely set up I remove the screws and replace them with the proper size. This way my holes are already tapped. (I spray the pilot screw with silicone spray before I insert them)


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## fishnpreacher (Jul 28, 2018)

I guess I didn't make myself clear. I've not had any luck filling and REdrilling the same spot. I would fill and seal the existing hole, move an inch or so and drill a new hole. The stripped hole will always be a weak spot.


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## Capnredfish (Feb 1, 2012)

Tape off deck. Work some piano wire or leader and saw right thru the 5200. I would go with my recommendation of Six-10. If there is coring you can clean it out with a small stiff wire bent in an L on end of a drill. Gives a good place for the epoxy to go. Or, the Snap Togglers. Smaller ones use a 3/8 hole. Not really any bigger than drilling out hole for larger screws that will pop out anyways. Never understood why the mounting flange is on the outside, oh ya. Easy to build and pull from mold. I’ve glassed a flange on the inside of console for mounting purposes.
We will all go on and on until blue in the face. Let us know which way you go.


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