# Asking for advice on repairing holes left from Power pole removal.



## Ginclear (Aug 11, 2013)

We are removing a fairly new (2013) Power pole from the transom of an '01 Waterman 18
we just acquired. I assume there will be 5200 involved, so we plan to remove the through bolts, 
support the Power Pole, and saw through the sealant with braid. I'm not sure what the sealant 
residue situation will be, but have been advised to scrape it off with a sharpened putty knife.
There will then be 6 through hull holes (4 mounting holes and 2 line holes) to fill and repair. Our 
plan is to drill the sealant from the holes with a slightly larger bit, chamfer the edges of the 
holes and then back them on the inside of the hull with taped on acetate. We plan to then fill
the holes with 3M high strength marine filler (with fiberglass strands). The next step after the
filler sets, is dish the filled holes slightly with a Dremel tool, sand lightly, then wipe with acetone, 
then apply color matched gel coat with wax.We will probably cover the gel coated spots with taped 
acetate to produce a smooth, level surface. Then, some degree of fine grit wet sanding and polishing
will be in order. We will treat the inside through hatch holes the same way. Any scratches caused by
removing the 5200 will also be sanded and gel coated.

My question is, to you fiberglass gurus out there, are these plans the correct way to go or is
there a better way? Any advice or corrections would be much appreciated.


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## r.rodriguez3 (Apr 10, 2015)

I would tape one side of the holes. Then mix resin with aerosil and mix it to like a peanut butter thickness then fill the holes like a putty. I think you can even mix in some gel coat color to help match.. not 100% on the gelcoat. The resin aerosile mix will dry rock hard and seal the hole. That's what I would do and have done on my boat.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Clean up the 5200 and then drill out the hole just a bit larger and fill with thickened epoxy as above.

I use a marinade injector needle from the supermarket. Cut the tip off and you can squeeze it in and pack it at the same time to make sure there are no air bubbles.


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## Ginclear (Aug 11, 2013)

Thanks for the replies and advice DuckNut and Chasin Tail, I have done some hole filling and
gel coat fixes on my skiffs, but this is my first through hull hole repair and I'm a little nervous
about it. I do want to finish the job with  a seamless gel coated surface and I know that epoxy
and gel coat do not always get along without some coaxing. I have read Kreepa's advice about
washing the cured surface of the cured epoxy with soap and water to remove the "blush" and
then gel coat will stick. He recommends West Systems Epoxy with 403 thickener, so I guess
I'll pay West Marine a visit and pay West Marine. I have to decide between 405 and 406 hardener.
406 is a little longer setting, so that would probably be safer. Anybody have any experience
with epoxy, soap, water, and gelcoat?


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## trplsevenz (Oct 29, 2012)

It' a crapshoot getting straight gel to kick off on epoxy. Sometimes it cures, other times it stays gooey and nasty. If I were doing that , I would either stick to poly fillers and lay a light layer of matt over the outside, then gel. or you can probably prime the epoxy with vinylester filler then gel over that.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Blue- there is a complete article along with test results from West Systems on this exact topic. Search their online magazine called epoxyworks.


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## cutrunner (Jun 8, 2010)

Your on the right track for sure. I would personally lay at least one layer of chop on each side though before fairing


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## Ginclear (Aug 11, 2013)

Thanks for the counseling and advice. DuckNut, I did not know of
the WestSystem article, so thanks for that. That is really enlightning.
Some of that info is counter to what I had read or heard elsewhere.
So thanks again for the connection.


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