# Changing pitch and cupping?



## topnative2

http://www.myinternetpartner.com/~bobbysol/


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## DuckNut

The place in Tampa reconditions mine for something like $55-65 ; can't think of their name right now.


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## Guest

> Does anyone know how much it costs to get an aluminum prop repitched? Possibly cupped as well?


I'm pretty sure that the pitch can't be changed.

Buy a S.S. with the right pitch and cup or have it done and be done with it or be happy with the sub-performance you are getting now.


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## firecat1981

I'm not buying a SS. I was all set to do so a little while ago and then I destroyed 2 props inside of 3 months hitting things. I'd rather sacrifice a $70 prop then risk another $1200 lower unit. If the aluminum can't be worked, or it's too expensive then I'll just shelve it as a back-up to my back-up.


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## Guest

> I'm not buying a SS. I was all set to do so a little while ago and then I destroyed 2 props inside of 3 months hitting things. I'd rather sacrifice a $70 prop then risk another $1200 lower unit. If the aluminum can't be worked, or it's too expensive then I'll just shelve it as a back-up to my back-up.



That's fine, but you don't seem to understand that each component compliments the other. Trying to cut corners if you want better performance is not going to work. "You gotta Pay to Play"

*Jack Plate
*S.S. prop
*Compression plate

When running is your Se sport wing out of the water? If not, then it's producing a lot of drag. My compression plate($60 Bob's) is out of the water with the fins submerged while running. The water flowing from the bottom of my skiff hits the bottom of the plate which then produces stern lift and it planes like the skiff should.


BTW, how my people have you herd breaking a lower unit simply by using a S.S. prop vs. Aluminum? How the hell are you running your skiff? I have never hit anything other then my skeg.


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## makin moves

ducknut, most likely admiral props they seem to do all the prop work in tampa bay


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## DuckNut

makin - that's them

brazil - wrong.


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## Guest

> makin - that's them
> 
> brazil - wrong.



Explain what's wrong?


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## High + Dry Adventures

Firecat

I will call the prop shop by me and get confirmed information for u

http://www.fjprop.com

That way the info is not a guess or an opinion.


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## High + Dry Adventures

> Does anyone know how much it costs to get an aluminum prop repitched? Possibly cupped as well?
> 
> 
> 
> I'm pretty sure that the pitch can't be changed.
> 
> Buy a S.S. with the right pitch and cup or have it done and be done with it or be happy with the sub-performance you are getting now.
Click to expand...

More pretty wrong information. Above from the nut

And not answering the guys questions or helping with his needs


Firecat

I read that you dont want SS so here is some aluminum prop info

Just got the phone with Robert at Frank & Jimmies Propeller

$20 to cup

$37 to change 1" of pitch

$87 to change 2" of pitch

These are their prices and may vary from shop to shop. But it gives u an idea. 

This shop that has helped me in the past.

SS can only be changed 1"
But aluminum can be changed 2"

Hope these facts help out

If I don't know I call the experts. I don't pretend to know. 

I want fellow microskiffers to get helpful info


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## DuckNut

I had a prop redone at Frank & Jimmies and they were a little more expensive than Admiral but I think that it is simply because of the market.

Do your best guestimation on what you need and then have it made the way you want it.

By the way - what motor do you have?  I have a few aluminum and two ss props of different size, pitch and cupping that might fit and you could try them if you wish.  

Edit: Brazil - see High & Dry's post for clarification.


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## High + Dry Adventures

Duck  

Love the edit: 



> Edit: Brazil - see High & Dry's post for clarification.




[smiley=anim_sniper2.gif]   [smiley=bs.gif]
H&D            





> I'm pretty sure that the pitch can't be changed.


I hate BS. Just say U dont know...right?

Or...just dont comment and make yourself sound even more brainless

Then tell a guy to go buy a $500+ prop and spend another couple hundred to treak it! LOL


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## Guest

> Duck
> 
> Love the edit:
> 
> [smiley=anim_sniper2.gif]   [smiley=bs.gif]
> H&D
> 
> I hate BS. Just say U dont know...right?
> 
> Or...just dont comment and make yourself sound even more brainless



I'm glad you guys have put out the correct info as I have always used S.S. props.

It's also nice that since Tom left the Forum Ducknut has found another BFF. So continue, your tag teaming towards me, but try to keep it in the closet. :


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## High + Dry Adventures

Nice pic of u and your boyfriend

Save those pics for FB or your match.com profile pics

Laughable

Not tag team.  Its microskiff vs you.

I have more tact and will not disclose all the PM's regarding u.  

Ill keep them to myself and just laugh

People can smell your BS thru the internet.

99.9% of your post dont help anyone. They only make u look worse.

Have a nice day


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## Shadowcast

Hey....isn't the important thing getting the information. That way you can say, "Now I know. And knowing is half the battle!" Yo Joe!


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## High + Dry Adventures

WOW...laughter is an amazing cure. LMFAO [smiley=1-lmao.gif]


Lets get back to the thread.

Information is only good if it is accurate.

Firecat

I read that you dont want SS so here is some aluminum prop info

Just got the phone with Robert at Frank & Jimmies Propeller

$20 to cup

$37 to change 1" of pitch

$87 to change 2" of pitch

These are their prices and may vary from shop to shop. But it gives u an idea. 

This shop that has helped me in the past.

SS can only be changed 1"
But aluminum can be changed 2"

Hope these facts help out

If I don't know I call the experts. I don't pretend to know. 

I want fellow microskiffers to get helpful info

[smiley=watching-you.gif]


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## Guest

> Hey....isn't the important thing getting the information.  That way you can say, "Now I know.  And knowing is half the battle!"  Yo Joe!




LOL! I think that is what they used to say!


Ryan,

I'm really done with this. It's fun for awhile, but the more you reply the more I can see just how uneducated your are. Most of what doesn't make a whole lot of sense and look they were written by an 8 year old.

BTW, when you imply that you are "tact" maybe you should try reading what that WORD means.

Here you are..........


http://dictionary.reference.com/browse/tact



Tact is the last thing you have!


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## High + Dry Adventures

Check out URBAN dictionary for Brazil nut

Trust me me.  I have more higher education than you can ever dream about. Old man

More friends too

Whats soooooo sick is that everyone is or will look that up and be on the floor


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## High + Dry Adventures

Lets try again.

Lets get back to the thread.

Information is only good if it is accurate.

Firecat

I read that you dont want SS so here is some aluminum prop info

Just got the phone with Robert at Frank & Jimmies Propeller

$20 to cup

$37 to change 1" of pitch

$87 to change 2" of pitch

These are their prices and may vary from shop to shop. But it gives u an idea. 

This shop that has helped me in the past.

SS can only be changed 1"
But aluminum can be changed 2"

Hope these facts help out

If I don't know I call the experts. I don't pretend to know. 

I want fellow microskiffers to get helpful info

[smiley=watching-you.gif]


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## topnative2

I am w/ firecat, spending money on ss for a low hp engine is so a waste of money.And. yes one can wipe out a prop shaft running a ss prop--that is a fact.

Sit back and enjoy the time on the water.


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## AfterHours2

If you have the ability to adjust on the fly with a JP, then a stainless is the way to go IMHO. I run a heavy cupped 4 blade power tech on my 25 Yami. Wouldn't have it any other way. Aluminum props still work good though and are affordable. Just know your waters and keep an eye out and a stainless will last forever....


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## Les_Lammers

I use and like SS props. I've only hit the skeg but I never run at high speed in water I'm not familiar with. 

FC,

I'd call Ron at the Skiff Shop and get his take on a prop for your rig. My 2 cents.

Les


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## firecat1981

I never really checked back on this thread because I went and bought a prop, but it turned out to be causing me some issues now. Thanks for all the info guys, I'm slightly warming to the idea of a SS prop after my last one got another chunk taken out of it and a SS solas is only $40 more then there aluminum. So I can buy it then have it cupped for under $150. 

Let me ask cause I have been told SS runs more efficiently then aluminum. Does this mean less slippage? Do you need to adjust pitch?


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## Creek Runner

> I never really checked back on this thread because I went and bought a prop, but it turned out to be causing me some issues now. Thanks for all the info guys, I'm slightly warming to the idea of a SS prop after my last one got another chunk taken out of it and a SS solas is only $40 more then there aluminum. So I can buy it then have it cupped for under $150.
> 
> Let me ask cause I have been told SS runs more efficiently then aluminum. Does this mean less slippage? Do you need to adjust pitch?


Yes in most cases, down 1"-2".


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## fsae99

SS props are more efficient at take off and WOT (less flex in blade under load), the efficiency gain is directly proportional to the size of the motor. Larger engines larger efficiency gains. However, due to the increased weight of a SS prop a 1" drop is not a bad idea.

The cupping will reduce the slippage and will really be why you want to most likely reduce another 1", for a total of 2" drop before having it cupped. What is you slippage now?

Cupping along the outer edge creates an apparent change to the rake of the prop (increase in rake). Cupping through the body of the blade increases pitch.


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## firecat1981

How do you accurately measure slippage?

Being with a 10 pitch I'm running right at, or slightly over, my rpm range, if I go with another 10" pitch in SS I should be sitting around 5600-5800rpm right? If I cup it maybe down to 5400-5600rpm? 

So if I went down to a cupped 9" pitch by theory I might be anywhere from 5600-5800rpm's?

Thanks for the help guys.


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## fsae99

About the best you can do is dived the difference between GPS max speed and theoretical max speed by the theoretical max speed.

Unless you can get the cops to laser you at WOT, then substitute that for max gps speed.


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## DuckNut

http://www.mercuryracing.com/propellers/propslipcalculator.php


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## Creek Runner

> How do you accurately measure slippage?
> 
> Being with a 10 pitch I'm running right at, or slightly over, my rpm range, if I go with another 10" pitch in SS I should be sitting around 5600-5800rpm right? If I cup it maybe down to 5400-5600rpm?
> 
> So if I went down to a cupped 9" pitch by theory I might be anywhere from 5600-5800rpm's?
> 
> Thanks for the help guys.


That is the one I would go with, you can always have the pitched changed up or down if need be.


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## firecat1981

Think that's what I'm gonna order and see how it goes one last time.

Using the link Ducknut posted it says I have a propeller slippage of only 5%. That sounds pretty good to me, what is considered normal?


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## Creek Runner

5% would be really good, not really sure if there is a normal as to many factors come into play, HP, Height, Hull design, etc, etc.

Get that 10" SS with a little cupping and I think you will hit the money, by all the numbers you have given.


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## Les_Lammers

> I never really checked back on this thread because I went and bought a prop, but it turned out to be causing me some issues now. Thanks for all the info guys, I'm slightly warming to the idea of a SS prop after my last one got another chunk taken out of it and a SS solas is only $40 more then there aluminum. So I can buy it then have it cupped for under $150.
> 
> Let me ask cause I have been told SS runs more efficiently then aluminum. Does this mean less slippage? Do you need to adjust pitch?


Gettting the right prop on a micro is trial and error and the difference in hulls complicates it a bit. I ended up calling Power Tech to get it right. I tried three props in the process. Calculations on paper are good for getting close but you still have to wet test. 

What prop did you get and what were the issues?


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## fsae99

5% is outrageously low, so much so that if it were me I'd question my rpm, speed, or gear ratio, unless you are severely under pitched.

7% is normally considered really low, with 10-14% considered normal.


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## noeettica

this thread is hilarious !


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## firecat1981

Is there a reason? Or are you just bored again?



> 5% is outrageously low, so much so that if it were me I'd question my rpm, speed, or gear ratio, unless you are severely under pitched.


I know my Speed and gear ratio are accurate. And my RPM's are fine, however I was running unloaded, I barely even had any gas in the tank. Once I add 300-400lbs of people and gear the RPM's take a dive.

I'm going to hold off buying a prop for a little while, When I fish lighter my stock prop will do well, and when loaded down my 9 pitch will work better. Also I'm thinking of migrating away from micro's for a bit and build something different. Thanks for the help guys, I may still pick up the ss 10" after the holidays when money is more abundant.


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## fsae99

No I was not bored. I know that I personally have never had a boat or a friend with a boat that had slippage that low.


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## firecat1981

The bored comment was in reference to NoeEttica.

About the prop, that was completely unloaded, my boat runs very well this way. Once I put in the numbers from when I'm loaded down with gear, livewell, gas, and a buddy the slippage numbers jump to around 11-15%. I think the numbers are accurate. Running a prop in test mode is much different then real world conditions. Looking around different sites and prop manufacturers the consensus seems to be that 5-15% is normal, but it's not uncommon to be greater or lower.


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