# Texas tunnel Conchfish



## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

got my strong back ready to hang stations. I probably spent too much time on it, but it’s very flat and level. As close as I can get with using 2x4s anyway. Hope to put up stations this weekend.


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## Finn Maccumhail (Apr 9, 2010)

Those trees and grass are too green to be West Texas man.


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## The Fin (Sep 28, 2021)

Yako said:


> View attachment 204784
> 
> 
> got my strong back ready to hang stations. I probably spent too much time on it, but it’s very flat and level. As close as I can get with using 2x4s anyway. Hope to put up stations this weekend.


Spending “too much time” on the strong back just sets the tone for the rest of the build! Cutting corners early leads to sloppiness later!


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

The Fin said:


> Spending “too much time” on the strong back just sets the tone for the rest of the build! Cutting corners early leads to sloppiness later!


Part of that was making sure it was as level as it could be, the other part was I’m an amateur 😂



Finn Maccumhail said:


> Those trees and grass are too green to be West Texas man.


promise it is. We haven’t had much rain this spring at all, but the water well keeps pumping.


I got 11 stations hung today. Just gotta get the transom station done now. I’m considering cutting it down to make rounded corners. Anyone have input if they are worth the extra work?


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## TX_Brad (Jun 8, 2018)

Following along. Going to be a sweet build.


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## Littlefish (11 mo ago)

I really like the sound of your build, especially the side console. Just have a thing for them. Very envious of your workspace btw, i work under a pole tent. In reading builds with rounded transoms, it sounds like it really is worth the extra work if poling a lot. It looks up to date, too.


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## Fishshoot (Oct 26, 2017)

I have a rounded transom skiff(I certainly didn't build it) it spins easier, poles quieter, poles backwards easier and is much quieter on anchor, especially from stern in my experience. I think you may lose a little bit of speed is all.


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

I am very glad I did it -- my main goal was to be able to spin the skiff quickly to give the guy on the bow a better angle, but I've found that it is quieter when staked out from the stern, and the bow doesn't wander if there's a lot of current (and you're staked out from the stern). Also it seems to help slow speed maneuverability and simply going in reverse.


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

Things are moving along nicely. Got a good bit of the hull stripped. I’m about 2 sheets of foam and almost a bottle of gorilla glue in.

I got glass and resin ordered this week from us composites, and the coosa for my transom
Also ordered.


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## BDann (Apr 3, 2017)

Looking good, can’t wait to see the end result!


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

Things are moving along. All the foam laid down really nicely on the stations. I’ll get it all sanded this weekend, then fillets and epoxy. 

my order from us composites will be here in a few days. I ended up ordering all epoxy.

So far I’ve used
4.5 sheets of carbon core 
1/2 sheet of 26lb coosa. (Hamilton marine in Maryland let me order half a sheet, and cut it to roughly transom size. Shipping was only $41. Highly recommended). 
2 big bottles of gorilla glue
2.5lbs of drywall screws.


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

If you don’t mind me asking, why Coosa on the transom? Is it stronger? Just curious, as I’ve never built a boat or done any fiberglass/epoxy work it’s all new to me


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

GoGataGo52__20 said:


> If you don’t mind me asking, why Coosa on the transom? Is it stronger? Just curious, as I’ve never built a boat or done any fiberglass/epoxy work it’s all new to me


It’s all new to me too 😂 I was told by several people that have built these boats to use coosa. The foam is strong enough but the issue as it was explained to me Is it compresses too much when mounting your motor/ jack plate.


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

Oh that makes sense, that must be why I see a lot of bigger boats using coosa for transom rebuilds


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

Yako said:


> It’s all new to me too 😂 I was told by several people that have built these boats to use coosa. The foam is strong enough but the issue as it was explained to me Is it compresses too much when mounting your motor/ jack plate.


Yep -- I used foam instead of Coosa. I feel confident it can carry the load just fine, but I had to go to a lot of effort to prevent compression.

For the bolt holes, I added large (I think 2.25" diameter) "slugs" made from chopped fiber, milled fiber, and silica. To prevent stress concentrations at the edge of the motor bracket itself, I made a 1/4" thick starboard plate as well as glassed in about an extra 1/4" of cloth to the outer skin to help diffuse any point/edge loads. I also did 1/4" starboard behind 1/8" aluminum bars on the inside of the motor well (plus plenty of extra skin thickness in the layup there too), to make sure that load is distributed as well as possible.

The easier route would have been to use Coosa, and I wouldn't have needed to do half as much stuff. Still a good idea to thicken up the skins a little and add some sort of plate there, but not quite as critical. If I were to build again, I would look hard at using Coosa instead.


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

So Bryson coosa is stronger as well once it’s glassed over or just more compression resistance? Sorry for the ignorance and not meaning to derail the thread just curious


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

GoGataGo52__20 said:


> So Bryson coosa is stronger as well once it’s glassed over or just more compression resistance? Sorry for the ignorance and not meaning to derail the thread just curious


Yes, but not significantly stronger from a "simple" load carrying standpoint. Most of that will come from the skins and the total sandwich thickness, as long as the core is strong enough in shear (which I think even foam is for these small skiffs). Also, you can reduce but not really eliminate the point loading that can cause localized compressive failure, so that's a risk you have to keep in mind (and try to mitigate as much as possible) with the foam core too. It all depends. I'm not worried about the foam in my transom because of everything I said before, but also because I made the motor well and deck significant structural components.

There is a lot to it, and a lot of "educated guesswork" -- using the Coosa just gives you a little more room for error and will generally be more forgiving from a design standpoint. I think the weight penalty is slight enough to where it's worthwhile just to take the hit and save yourself some extra effort in the design/construction aspect. If nothing else, you at least have the peace of mind that your transom core is way stronger than necessary.

Good stuff here for anyone interested: https://www.hexcel.com/user_area/content_media/raw/Honeycomb_Sandwich_Design_Technology.pdf


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## DBStoots (Jul 9, 2011)

You boys... 💪. Mad respect for all of you who have taken on these building projects.


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

Got all 3 coats of glass on the outside, learned a lot.

First coat I ran lengthwise across the entire boat, unrolling it from the back and wetting out the hull before placing the glass down. Fought with some bubbles in the corners most of the way.
I also had a bunch of areas with dry glass that had to be sanded out. I only put a thin coat of epoxy on when I wet out the bare foam and that was a mistake. I used just over 2 quarts to paint the entire boat, I would easily double that if not more. The foam still soaked up epoxy.

Second method was to lay them across the boat in much smaller pieces. I also painted the epoxy on and let it get tacky for about an hour before putting cloth down, this way worked much better with the bubbles.

Overall it went well, all 3 coats are on and the epoxy cured perfect and hard. We did waste some time and material with the dry cloth having to be fixed. My keel was overlapped the whole way down so it’s got 6 layers. Also the transom edges were overlapped going both ways so it should be strong.

I’m just under 5 gallons of epoxy in for everything at this point. I’m hoping to be done fairing and sharpening, then adding strakes in a couple weeks.


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

Lookin good bud!


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## texasag07 (Nov 11, 2014)

Impressive time to get that much work done.


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## Snakesurf (Jun 18, 2019)

Yako said:


> View attachment 208127
> 
> Got all 3 coats of glass on the outside, learned a lot.
> 
> ...


 What is the weight of the fiberglass cloth you are using? Really awesome build.


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

texasag07 said:


> Impressive time to get that much work done.


 My wife hasn’t hardly noticed all the hours in the shop 😂


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

Snakesurf said:


> What is the weight of the fiberglass cloth you are using? Really awesome build.


 Using 10oz cloth from us composites. Thanks!


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

Yako, out of curiousity and feel free to pm me if you don’t want to put it in the thread. What do you think you have in her in materials so far?


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## Bubbarjh (May 20, 2021)

Following


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

GoGataGo52__20 said:


> Yako, out of curiousity and feel free to pm me if you don’t want to put it in the thread. What do you think you have in her in materials so far?


Yes I am keeping detailed notes of cost. 

Right now I’m right around $5300. That includes the plans from Chris, cnc cut stations (bought second hand), strongback materials, 13 sheets of carbon core, 1/2 sheet of coosa, 10 gallons of epoxy (15 total with hardener), 70 yards of glass, a bunch of fillers, a bunch of sandpaper, screws, gorilla glue, a laser level, etc. I will definitely need some more glass and epoxy eventually, but that’s where I’m at now.


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

Had a great conversation today with Jack Foreman. Talked all about skiffs, tunnels, engines, etc. He really likes the boat. 

He strongly recommend to me the tohatsu 60 over the Yamaha 40, which is the way I was already leaning from my talking with @jglidden. 

One thing he did mention is that he is not a fan of vented tunnels, so that will be something I’ll have to consider. 

Other than that I got most of the fairing on, ran out of glass bubbles but more are on the way. I’ll start sanding today.


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

Why isn’t he a fan of venting the tunnels?

As I’ve understood it, it aides when your running high speed and usually you gain a few mph. Much like taking your finger off the end of a straw the suction of a tunnel can hold a boat from reaching higher speeds


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

GoGataGo52__20 said:


> Why isn’t he a fan of venting the tunnels?
> 
> As I’ve understood it, it aides when your running high speed and usually you gain a few mph. Much like taking your finger off the end of a straw the suction of a tunnel can hold a boat from reaching higher speeds


That’s exactly what I’ve heard. He just said he doesn’t like them, I didn’t ask details.


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## Kamtam (7 mo ago)

Following, debating jumping off the deep end once I get my long term project up to par. Would love to do this with my boys or just have something to tinker with at night. Buying the stations second hand was probably a really wise move. Like the way the tunnel turned out.


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

Kamtam said:


> Following, debating jumping off the deep end once I get my long term project up to par. Would love to do this with my boys or just have something to tinker with at night. Buying the stations second hand was probably a really wise move. Like the way the tunnel turned out.


jump in! It’s been fun building, I only wish I woulda done it sooner.

Hopefully the stations can go on to someone else to make a third boat. A little titebond in the screw holes and they are good as new.


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

The fairing process is still going. I’m many hours into sanding with a long block. I would estimate I’m 90% there once I knock down my latest little skim coats. There is definitely a learning curve to fairing.

I got some thickened epoxy on my chine edge, stern edges, tunnel edges, and keel. Used about 50/50 cabosil and glass bubbles.

I tried 3 different methods to dam it up. Pvc board hot glued on, which I didn’t love. The pvc board is hard to get to stay up and in position with the hot glue. I also tried hvac tape, and aluminum tape with the removable backing. That method seems to be best. It’s stiff enough to hold the resin. We will see how straight it is and how hard it is to pull off.

Im working hard this week before and after work, putting in lots of hours. Of course with plenty of breaks to play fetch with my assistant.

i will cut my strakes tonight and hopefully be ready for primer by Saturday. If anyone has any tips for doing the strakes I’d love to hear.


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## Todd Thibodeaux (Mar 31, 2020)

Yako said:


> Things are moving along. All the foam laid down really nicely on the stations. I’ll get it all sanded this weekend, then fillets and epoxy.
> 
> my order from us composites will be here in a few days. I ended up ordering all epoxy.
> 
> ...





Yako said:


> Things are moving along. All the foam laid down really nicely on the stations. I’ll get it all sanded this weekend, then fillets and epoxy.
> 
> my order from us composites will be here in a few days. I ended up ordering all epoxy.
> 
> ...


Nice build have you heard of or considered venting the tunnel?


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## Todd Thibodeaux (Mar 31, 2020)

Todd Thibodeaux said:


> Nice build have you heard of or considered venting the tunnel? Sorry missed the Foreman thread. I have been very interested in a vented tunnel a boat company her in texas (new water) uses them I rode in one and was very impressed with the speed gain with the vent open. I would love to add one too my HPX tunnel but too scared to cut into it.


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

Yeah I have read about venting it. I most likely will vent it. Almost everything I’ve read about doing it is positive.


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## jonny (May 1, 2007)

Yako said:


> That’s exactly what I’ve heard. He just said he doesn’t like them, I didn’t ask details.


I would have loved to hear his thoughts on that. The man is a treasure on props and tunnels. I also don’t know of why you would not want to vent. Now most of the ways this is accomplished I don’t like. But there are a couple of good ways to do it. I’ve been going through a few ideas in my head for a couple of years now.
Skiff is looking great good work👍


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

my dad came up to help this week and we got a lot done. Lots of fairing, line sharpening, more fairing, more fairing, repeat.

I finished the fairing with system 3 quick fair. It is really nice stuff, much easier to work with than the glass bubbles. Of course it’s expensive so I would only use it at the end for small stuff.the hardened edges are on both chines, the transom, and the tunnel with 50-50 cabosil and bubbles.

I rolled and tipped 3 coats of system 3 pennant primer. It is a water based epoxy primer. It went on really well with the roller, which is what system 3 recommended. I have a few very small cosmetic issues that I will fix before paint.

On Sunday I had a few buddies come over and we flipped the boat. I broke it loose by knocking a bunch of small wedges under the flange. I then got under the boat and pressed up from the inside in a few areas. It came free very easy, even though I missed a few screws.


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

Conchfish 17 skiff. Freeing it from the stations.







youtube.com













Removing Conchfish from stations







youtube.com


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## Wood (Mar 3, 2021)

Heck yeah, looking great!


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## Gatorbig (Jan 15, 2021)

Noice! Big step man looking 👌


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## CKEAT (Aug 26, 2015)

Can’t wait to see this sled on the water, looking great man!


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

Got the boat all put back up on the strongback with some supports to really hold it in place with no twist or sagging. Dropped 3 stations back in and they fit perfectly.
Fillets and corners radiused, filled all the big holes with thickened epoxy and got a coat of neat epoxy on it.

I cut all my glass for the inside to go to the upper spray rails like Chris shows in his build. Should get that started today or tomorrow.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Moving along!


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## CKEAT (Aug 26, 2015)

Can’t wait to see this bad boy on the water, it’s looking great!


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

Dude I envy how fast your moving along


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

Thanks guys!

The 70 yards of glass I initially ordered will get me through the entire outside and about 2 layers on the inside. I ordered more Friday from usc. I’ve used about 9 gallons of epoxy so far. Of course a lot of that got sanded off. I also located a tohatsu 60hp in Texas that I’m gonna power the boat with. I have a McClain trailer on order, should be ready in a couple months.


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## will98 (Dec 18, 2021)

flying through this build. Love watching, sweet work!


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

Been hard at work on the Conchfish. Got my transom doubler cut and installed. 2 layers of 26lb coosa board with 1 layer of 10oz and cabosil thickened epoxy in between. I laid 3 more layers on top of that, then 1 additional over just the area where the jackplate will mount I also built in a little bit of extra cloth where the transom eyes will moun . Now to start planning my bulkheads, stringer system and drain.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

You may have seen this before or been planning on using them. Have you considered glassing in composite sleeves for the thru transom mounting bolts? They will eliminate compressing the transom when tightening the bolts down.


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> You may have seen this before or been planning on using them. Have you considered glassing in composite sleeves for the thru transom mounting bolts? They will eliminate compressing the transom when tightening the bolts down.


No i hadn’t seen those. I was planning on just going through the coosa, maybe over drilling them then filling with some thickened epoxy. I also considered using a smaller piece of scrap coosa as a backer plate.

Is that gonna give me plenty of strength?


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Yako said:


> No i hadn’t seen those. I was planning on just going through the coosa, maybe over drilling them then filling with some thickened epoxy. I also considered using a smaller piece of scrap coosa as a backer plate.
> 
> Is that gonna give me plenty of strength?


A backer should be fine


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## texasislandboy (Jul 25, 2011)

Big enough backing plates and you do not have to worry about it. Issue happens when people use just fender washers. Surface area is your friend. And yes… I have built boats before and high end ones at that.


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## KurtActual (Sep 25, 2017)

Man, that shop yall are working in is nice! I think I'd be building a boat right now if I had that kind of space.


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## Kamtam (7 mo ago)

Coming along nicely. Good on you for keeping the build progress updated on here. Making me jealous


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

Kamtam said:


> Coming along nicely. Good on you for keeping the build progress updated on here. Making me jealous


Jump in and get one going!


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

KurtActual said:


> Man, that shop yall are working in is nice! I think I'd be building a boat right now if I had that kind of space.


Building a shop was one of my best decisions, love having a great work space. 20x30 is just about right. With garage doors on each end, makes it very easy to blow dust out of.


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

Any input on gas tanks? I can fit either the 13 or 19g moeller. I think the 13 will be more than enough for 90% of what I do, but for Louisiana or if I ever take it to the marquesas the 19g May be nice! Running a tohatsu 60


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## KurtActual (Sep 25, 2017)

I'm not a builder, yet, but i'd say if you can fit it, run it. You dont have to fill it for a trip, ya know?


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## trekker (Sep 19, 2015)

Looks good! What brand/mix of epoxy did you go with?


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## TheHawk (Aug 9, 2017)

I'm jealous of folks who have the time to tackle one of these! Looking nice.


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

trekker said:


> Looks good! What brand/mix of epoxy did you go with?


Thanks! I'm using US composites epoxy "slow" cure. If I was doing this build again, I'd use the exact same thing. Plenty of pot life, no blush, and every single batch has cured perfectly. 

I got my bulkheads and stringers put in this week. I glassed 2 entire sheets of foam up with 2 layers of 10oz on each side. I'll use these for my bulkheads, stringers, rod holders, motor well, etc. 

I originally tabbed my stringers in with just 1 layer of 10z, thinking they are really short and won't get much torque put on them. I'm going to go back this evening and add at least one more layer of tabbing, if not two. I'd rather it be slightly over built for peace of mind. I think it will still be plenty light. Bulkheads got 2 layers of tabbing, and 3 layers in the bigger spots. It all feels really solid. 

Due to my tunnel hull my drain system will be a bit different, having to route water around the tunnel to the motor well area. I'll get some pictures and post tonight of how I'm going to do that. 

I also got my gas tank ordered, went with the 19g Moeller. It will be way more than necessary for 95% of what I do, but I think I'll still have plenty of storage space even with it. Plus I really want to visit the marquesas and tortugas one day, it would be cool to drive it out there.


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## 17376 (May 5, 2017)

TheHawk said:


> I'm jealous of folks who have the time to tackle one of these! Looking nice.


I don't think any of us have "time" to do it. I think we have the ambition to want to do it. Or maybe we're just crazy.


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## 17376 (May 5, 2017)

Yako said:


> Thanks! I'm using US composites epoxy "slow" cure. If I was doing this build again, I'd use the exact same thing. Plenty of pot life, no blush, and every single batch has cured perfectly.
> 
> I got my bulkheads and stringers put in this week. I glassed 2 entire sheets of foam up with 2 layers of 10oz on each side. I'll use these for my bulkheads, stringers, rod holders, motor well, etc.
> 
> ...


Yako, why don't you build a tank for it? Super simple probably less than $100.


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

Northfl89 said:


> Yako, why don't you build a tank for it? Super simple probably less than $100.


 I really considered it, almost did actually. I love the idea of minimizing wasted space. In the end I wanted something easily removable through a hatch though. I think I will still have plenty of storage in the 2 hatches.

for anyone wanting a Moeller tank, Amazon has the best prices I could find, but none in stock. West marine price matched Amazon and they had it in stock so win-win.


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

Great weekend working on the Conchfish. Got some supports made for the front deck area. Used my stations as templates, transferred to cardboard then foam. Once I got them cut to shape a little sanding to bevel them, and they fit really nice.
I also built a tray for my gas tank with 2 supports underneath, and heavily beveled to get good surface area contact around the edges. The tank is a Moeller 19g tank. It will fit but barely, the height with the fill tube and a deck fill tube is gonna be extremely close.


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## Mike Haydon (Dec 19, 2019)

Looks great. What did you do for the water draining?


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

Yesterday I got the drain routed around the tunnel, and the motorwell area glassed in. I also got the gas tank tray glassed in.


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## jonny (May 1, 2007)

Yako said:


> View attachment 212707
> 
> 
> Any input on gas tanks? I can fit either the 13 or 19g moeller. I think the 13 will be more than enough for 90% of what I do, but for Louisiana or if I ever take it to the marquesas the 19g May be nice! Running a tohatsu 60


As the ladies say
It’s better to have too much than not enough😂
I can run two full days on a 6 gallon portable tank with my Hatsu 50 if that helps any. My vote would be for the 19. I have a 22 aluminum permanent tank going in mine


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

jonny said:


> As the ladies say
> It’s better to have too much than not enough😂
> I can run two full days on a 6 gallon portable tank with my Hatsu 50 if that helps any. My vote would be for the 19. I have a 22 aluminum permanent tank going in mine


i went with the 19g. Still should have plenty of storage space


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

Update on the Conchfish. Hope to have the floor ready to glass in within a week, then time to fair fair fair again.

my trailer is ready to be picked up and I have a guy making me a poling platform. I still need to figure out the casting platform.I may make one myself if I can’t find an affordable one.


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## CKEAT (Aug 26, 2015)

It’s looking awesome!


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## isubarui (Aug 10, 2015)

Really awesome video. Give a great view of what is going on with the build. Keep them coming.


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

Floor is all installed. Everything went well. 2 layers on the bottom and 3 layers on top, plus 4 layers for cooler tie downs. I got the slope to the middle perfect by using a single piece of cardboard to slightly bend the foam while glassing. All taped in with 2 layers of 10oz, 3 layers on the corners. I’ll make a custom removable drain grate for the floor drain.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

I love seeing this come together


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

Can anyone give any advice for poling platform height? I’m running a 20” shaft motor, plus the tunnel, which is gonna make my platform really high in order to not have any clearance issues when trimmed up out of the water. My transom is 20” from the top of the tunnel. So about 25” from the bottom of the hull.


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## 17376 (May 5, 2017)

As close as you can to the top of your engine when it's at it's highest height.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Northfl89 said:


> As close as you can to the top of your engine when it's at it's highest height.


Or 4” higher than that if you think you might add my pickup system at some point.


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## 17376 (May 5, 2017)

@Yako having a tunnel, smacks pick up system would be excellent. I strongly recommend it. Best thing since slice cheese.


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## CKEAT (Aug 26, 2015)

Northfl89 said:


> @Yako having a tunnel, smacks pick up system would be excellent. I strongly recommend it. Best thing since slice cheese.


It does work very well and a bonus is it’s great to flush engine running 👍


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

Big weekend coming up, my trailer is ready at McClain and my poling platform is being built. Lots of fairing going on for me. I’m going to do a basic fairing job inside the front and back hatches to get the big stuff cleaned up and the inside of the cockpit I’ll fair fully.


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## jonny (May 1, 2007)

Yako said:


> Can anyone give any advice for poling platform height? I’m running a 20” shaft motor, plus the tunnel, which is gonna make my platform really high in order to not have any clearance issues when trimmed up out of the water. My transom is 20” from the top of the tunnel. So about 25” from the bottom of the hull.


Coming along nicely👍

I would definitely skip the anchor light tab off the back. My skiff runs so well jacked up. I forget I have the motor so high. And I tilt my engine into my tab a bunch. My cowl is taking a beating.
Also think about a curved forward design. This will give additional clearance and benefits your draft a bit.


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

Spent the last few weeks fairing, fairing, then fairing some more. Got the cockpit looking really clean. Inside the hatches I ended up spending more time then i had planned getting all the big stuff cleaned up, and the stuff you will see looking pretty clean. First coat of primer went on last night. Also, got my poling platform and trailer picked up.


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

Pictures


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## Mike Haydon (Dec 19, 2019)

Platform looks killer


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

Great few days working on the Conchfish. I got all my rod tubes and chase tubes filleted in. 3 rear facing and 1 forward facing on each side. I’ll never need that many but it wasn’t much extra work to have some options. Glassed in some coosa board pieces for my trim tab screws to screw into. 3 coats of system 3 pennant primer are down and I’m really happy with everything.


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

Cap building/ lamination post. I went back and forth on building a mold or doing it spear style. I had worries about releasing from the mold and the small margin for error fitting to the hull. The spear style looked like room for the foam to sag in the gunnels which I didn’t like. I am doing a modified spear style. Similar to what @conchfish16 @sublime_63 and Seth sawyer did. 

I rough cut foam to get enough material with 1-2” extra all the way around. sanded down my shop floor nice and flat removing any globs of epoxy or foam. I gorilla glued the pieces of foam into one piece on the floor upside down, then laminated the bottom. 2 layers of 10oz with extra layers for the trolling motor, side console, and poling platform feet. 

Flipped it and did the same thing in the top side, with 3 layers 10oz plus some extra reinforcements. Made sure to sand the shop floor again and any bumps on the bottom of the cap.

Last night I set it on the hull, man it sits so perfect and flat. No sag anywhere. Couldn’t be happier. I flush cut the outsider perimeter with a router.
Very rewarding step, maybe the most rewarding one other than flipping the boat.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Looking dang good!!!


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Looking dang good!!!


Thanks smack!


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## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

Fascinating... who'd have thought such simple process would produce such great results for a solid, level cap? Will you build a lip on it after trimming and fitting?


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

lemaymiami said:


> Fascinating... who'd have thought such simple process would produce such great results for a solid, level cap? Will you build a lip on it after trimming and fitting?


My plan is to route a 1/2” edge all around the top of the cap to round it over. After I attach it to the hull with cabosil, I’ll go back and run a layer or two of tape from the cap over the edge onto the existing flange of the hull. It should make it very stiff and next to impossible for the cap to ever separate.


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## ElLobo (Sep 14, 2020)

Killing it! I just finally ordered all my foam and glass/resin for my CF Glades build. Been going back and forth on either building a deck mold or this spear style and you make this look pretty slick. What are your plans for the hatches/gutters? @Yako


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## jonny (May 1, 2007)

Looking great man I love a simple flat side console. I’ve never owned one but I have always wanted one. I had a couple of raised SC. But they are not as old school cool as a flat. You going to spring for some dual levers?


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

ElLobo said:


> Killing it! I just finally ordered all my foam and glass/resin for my CF Glades build. Been going back and forth on either building a deck mold or this spear style and you make this look pretty slick. What are your plans for the hatches/gutters? @Yako


thanks! My plan now is to form them out of foam, then glass in. Basically a copy of what sublime and Seth sawyer did. 



jonny said:


> Looking great man I love a simple flat side console. I’ve never owned one but I have always wanted one. I had a couple of raised SC. But they are not as old school cool as a flat. You going to spring for some dual levers?


Thanks Jonny! I’m going back and forth on keeping the console flat like the old school whips, or building something kind of swoopy similar to the one Chittum did on there new smaller skiff. The Sabine/ beaver tail ones look too boxy for me.


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

My hatch channels I’m doing a copy of what Seth sawyer and Stuart did. Made them out of foam, and will glass them in. Got my hatches cut using a circular saw and jig saw, came out nice and straight. The front hatch is designed just big enough to get the Moeller 19g tank out if I ever needed to. The back hatch is 32x28. The hatch channels are 2” deep and 1.5” wide. The inside lip that the hatch lid will sit on is offset 1/4 in to account for the 3/8 gasket, with about 25% compression.
I also cut my inside cockpit lines on the deck used a pvc board to get some nice smooth bends, I don’t care for the boxy looking cockpit lines


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## KWGator (Apr 22, 2019)

Looks like your fishing buddy has already assumed his future spot.


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

Got a question for everyone about mounting my jackplate. I built the transom 20” to the top of the tunnel. The bobs jackplate has about a 2” rise where the motor mounts, which puts the cav plate of the motor above the tip of the tunnel. Should I mount the jackplate flush or down a few Inches?


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Yako said:


> Got a question for everyone about mounting my jackplate. I built the transom 20” to the top of the tunnel. The bobs jackplate has about a 2” rise where the motor mounts, which puts the cav plate of the motor above the tip of the tunnel. Should I mount the jackplate flush or down a few Inches?


Flush


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## Mike Haydon (Dec 19, 2019)

Yako said:


> thanks! My plan now is to form them out of foam, then glass in. Basically a copy of what sublime and Seth sawyer did.
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Jonny! I’m going back and forth on keeping the console flat like the old school whips, or building something kind of swoopy similar to the one Chittum did on there new smaller skiff. The Sabine/ beaver tail ones look too boxy for me.


Got a pic of the chittum console?


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## Mike Haydon (Dec 19, 2019)

I would say flush, especially if you have a motor that can be dropped a hole if needed. Not the smaller clamp on style. That way you get the most out of the jackplate without having to move it.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> I would say flush, especially if you have a motor that can be dropped a hole if needed. Not the smaller clamp on style. That way you get the most out of the jackplate without having to move it.


Flush because the hydraulic fittings for steering cylinder usually have very little if any clearance when the outboard is trimmed up enough to be out of the water when poling. Some will actually hit the transom depending on what configuration. Last thing you want is more transom in the way. I’ve added jackplates to some skiffs and the outboard had to be lifted to the highest holes and fittings had to be tweaked so they didn’t hit.


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

Got the cap bonded today! Here are a bunch of pictures and video walk through. Weight as it sits now is 447lbs 









Conchfish 17 before bonding cap







youtube.com


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## Mike Haydon (Dec 19, 2019)

Love the console design. Also that it can be covered underneath the way you have it going. Very cool sir!


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

Mike Haydon said:


> Love the console design. Also that it can be covered underneath the way you have it going. Very cool sir!


Thanks Mike. I don’t have a picture of the chittum one I like, but it’s close to this. Smaller/ lower with radiused corners.


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## TX_Brad (Jun 8, 2018)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Flush


While Smack definitely knows more than me, I'd actually go the other way. When I replaced my atlas with the Bobs i ran into same issue and am having to deal with the motor being a little bit higher (i.e. it reduces the functional range as I can actually get it too high now).


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

TX_Brad said:


> While Smack definitely knows more than me, I'd actually go the other way. When I replaced my atlas with the Bobs i ran into same issue and am having to deal with the motor being a little bit higher (i.e. it reduces the functional range as I can actually get it too high now).


Read my other post #102 explaining why.


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## TX_Brad (Jun 8, 2018)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Read my other post #102 explaining why.


Ah, good point. That was one of the downsides of where my Atlas was mounted. My trim switch got stuck when I was all the way down and chipped my gelcoat when I first got it. 

I should've just stopped with "smack definitely knows more than me" and I'd have been right.


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## bob_esper (Jun 3, 2021)

Kinda off subject of the boat boat, which is looking awesome by the way. But, how well does that spray foam insulation do in the shop? I've got a pretty old building, but i've thought about ripping out the walls and old insulation and spraying the whole thing. Then I couldn't get critters in the walls haha.


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

TX_Brad said:


> While Smack definitely knows more than me, I'd actually go the other way. When I replaced my atlas with the Bobs i ran into same issue and am having to deal with the motor being a little bit higher (i.e. it reduces the functional range as I can actually get it too high now).


Brad, I think I will have the same scenario as you, with the engine possibly going too high. My baseline as it is now, with the jackplate all the way at the bottom will put the cav plate about an inch above the top of the tunnel. I can't imagine with 6" of travel (jacking all the way up), I would be able to run that high. I could be surprised, but that seems really high. We will see. Of course, as smack mentioned there will be some room for adjustment on the engine to the jackplate.


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Flush because the hydraulic fittings for steering cylinder usually have very little if any clearance when the outboard is trimmed up enough to be out of the water when poling. Some will actually hit the transom depending on what configuration. Last thing you want is more transom in the way. I’ve added jackplates to some skiffs and the outboard had to be lifted to the highest holes and fittings had to be tweaked so they didn’t hit.


Makes perfect sense, thanks!


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

TX_Brad said:


> Ah, good point. That was one of the downsides of where my Atlas was mounted. My trim switch got stuck when I was all the way down and chipped my gelcoat when I first got it.
> 
> I should've just stopped with "smack definitely knows more than me" and I'd have been right.


I’ve chipped a couple of transoms because of the jackplate mounting height in relation to top of transom. One was a Chittum but the owner had already done it before me and I caused no extra damage.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Yako said:


> Brad, I think I will have the same scenario as you, with the engine possibly going too high. My baseline as it is now, with the jackplate all the way at the bottom will put the cav plate about an inch above the top of the tunnel. I can't imagine with 6" of travel (jacking all the way up), I would be able to run that high. I could be surprised, but that seems really high. We will see. Of course, as smack mentioned there will be some room for adjustment on the engine to the jackplate.


You can always get a pickup system and run that high…


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

bob_esper said:


> Kinda off subject of the boat boat, which is looking awesome by the way. But, how well does that spray foam insulation do in the shop? I've got a pretty old building, but i've thought about ripping out the walls and old insulation and spraying the whole thing. Then I couldn't get critters in the walls haha.


The spray foam is awesome. I also have drive thru garage doors on each end that are insulated that work well. Its the closed cell foam, around 1.5 inches thick if I remember correctly. They sprayed it from the joints on the floor all the way across the entire ceiling.


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

Yako the Yamaha 40 you mentioned you were putting on here is it a 2 stroke? Or a newer 4 stroke?


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## CKEAT (Aug 26, 2015)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> You can always get a pickup system and run that high…


I would, has been such a great peace of mind running Texas waters. It’s very nice not to chop up habitat and wear out prop, skeg, impeller etc. 

Really rounds out a low water running machine.


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

GoGataGo52__20 said:


> Yako the Yamaha 40 you mentioned you were putting on here is it a 2 stroke? Or a newer 4 stroke?


I changed my mind in that, after having conversations with several people that have much more knowledge and experience than me. I’m going with a tohatsu 60


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

CKEAT said:


> I would, has been such a great peace of mind running Texas waters. It’s very nice not to chop up habitat and wear out prop, skeg, impeller etc.
> 
> Really rounds out a low water running machine.


 Definitely will consider a low water pickup. Running all the way jacked up would be awesome.

unrelated, I didn’t post any pictures of my hatch channels. They came out really nice with 2 layers of glass on each side, overlapped on the corners so they have 4 layers. I also made some foam pieces for the corners so they are radiused to the deck opening.

I also got some work done on my side console and support for that, really liking it.


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)




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## CKEAT (Aug 26, 2015)

This rig is looking awesome! Great work man


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

Nice Tohatsu is killing the smaller Hp market especially with the 60hp. A friend of mine has one on a 16ft skiff, it’s a rocket ship and sips fuel. Your gonna love it


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

Not a ton of pretty pictures to post this last week, but things are progressing. Trying to really pay attention to detail In this stage and think of all the little finishes to make the boat nice.

Got the cap glassed down to the hull. Used 2 layers of 3” tape. More so to protect the exposed foam from the router than anything. The flange is already stiff from the 6 layers of existing glass. Around the splashwell I glassed the cap down with 4 layers. I glassed the HECK out of the transom/splashwell/ cap joint. Probably 14 pieces of small glass. Hopefully this will keep me from getting any cracks with trailering over rough roads, or hitting oyster shell, whatever. 

The side console is completely built and first coat of fairing applied. I built a piece to tilt the helm more toward the driver to make the steering wheel more comfortable. I don’t care for the really flat consoles for that reason, feels like driving a school bus. I found some really nice looking switches that install with a backer nut. I routed out a space in the front of the console for the switches.

My deck and lids have been routed out to recess the hinges. I’ll tape up and wax the hinges. Fill the recessed area with thickened epoxy, then press the hinge down to (hopefully) get an exact recess.

System 3 paint and primer has been awesome to work with. I would highly recommend it to anyone doing this. I’ll end up using almost 2 gallons of primer for the entire boat. Probably 1.5gallons of paint or so. I ordered a gallon of tbe ever tek “medium” non skid as well.


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## CKEAT (Aug 26, 2015)

Yako said:


> View attachment 221477
> 
> View attachment 221479
> 
> ...


Damn, man!! This is gonna be a bad ass Texas build. Can’t wait to see it on the water!


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

CKEAT said:


> Damn, man!! This is gonna be a bad ass Texas build. Can’t wait to see it on the water!


 Thanks brother. I’d be happy to take you out to chase some reds!


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

It makes me happy to see you beefing up those areas around the transom. Way too many skiffs have spider cracks in that area.


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> It makes me happy to see you beefing up those areas around the transom. Way too many skiffs have spider cracks in that area.


No doubt! It’s thiiick glass right where you normally see those.


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## CKEAT (Aug 26, 2015)

Yako said:


> Thanks brother. I’d be happy to take you out to chase some reds!


No doubt, take you up on that.


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## Mike Haydon (Dec 19, 2019)

I would look into another way to do the hinges. That's not gonna give enough room for primer and paint. Or at least it hasnt for me.


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## Tommy1 (Mar 3, 2016)

Maybe try a few extra layers of tape on the hinges to make room in the recess for primer, paint and error.


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

Mike Haydon said:


> I would look into another way to do the hinges. That's not gonna give enough room for primer and paint. Or at least it hasnt for me.


thanks for the heads up.


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

Well, the hull is completely finished, from a glass and fairing point. Feels really good and I’m really happy with it. Plenty of imperfections, most of them only I will ever notice.

I got the top primed on Saturday with 2 coats. On Sunday I flipped it back over to prep for paint. I spent several hours sanding first with 180 then 220. Got all the brush strokes and runs out of the primer. Filled some pinholes, and sanded out all the epoxy drips. Im hoping this puts me in a good spot for a nice paint job. My plan after talking with the folks at system 3 (they are awesome at answering questions and giving advice) is to roll 2 coats, wait a day, sand, then roll another 2 coats.

anyway, here’s some pictures


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

Pictures


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)




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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

2 coats of paint went on tonight, looking pretty good. Went ahead and built a casting platform too. saved myself about $700 and got the exact size I needed


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## CKEAT (Aug 26, 2015)

Looking really good!


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

Been so busy the last week I haven’t taken much time for pictures or posts. The paint is all done. Rolled and tipped 6 coats on the bottom with some sanding in between a couple. Turned out ok, looks great from 5 feet away. The inside was sprayed with an airless sprayer. If I was doing it over again I’d have sprayed the entire thing. Only took 3 coats and looks better. The non skid is ever tek medium grit from usc. Mixed it in the paint and rolled it right on. 

I had my dad and a buddy here helping this weekend which was awesome. We got a lot of rigging done yesterday which I’ll show in another post.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

She’s looking good! You can probably see the light at the end of the tunnel now.


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## CKEAT (Aug 26, 2015)

Some great work, it is looking awesome! Congrats


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

Rigging and wiring moving right along. The trim tabs and transcucer mount are installed. Screwed into the doubled coosa, with 4200. SS boat buckles are in, those things are nice! My lights are all wired, got LED nav and anchor lights, and some cool under gunnel lights.


My dog Scout was a big part of this build. He spent hundreds of hours in the shop right at my side. I thought it was only right to put his paw print on the boat.


Did some adjustments to the trailer bunks and set up. Took it out of the shop for the first time, after making sure it was well insured!! (Which was much harder than expected).


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)




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## Chrisbrocci (9 mo ago)

What was your experience with getting it insured?


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

Chrisbrocci said:


> What was your experience with getting it insured?


 It was a major hassle. I called several brokers and all the big companies, no one insures home made boats. I eventually found someone that would cover it. Allie at charter lakes insurance took good care of me.


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## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

I've been with Charter Lakes now since 1996 and have an agreed value coverage (the only way to go for an older skiff in my opinion). They've been super - can't say enough good things about them for commercial vessels. Wasn't aware they'd cover recreational types, very interesting... Did they want a marine survey at all?


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

lemaymiami said:


> I've been with Charter Lakes now since 1996 and have an agreed value coverage (the only way to go for an older skiff in my opinion). They've been super - can't say enough good things about them for commercial vessels. Wasn't aware they'd cover recreational types, very interesting... Did they want a marine survey at all?


they did not require a survey, but they did ask lots of questions regarding the build process, my experience, the plans, etc. I had to send pictures of the entire build process.


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## Chrisbrocci (9 mo ago)

Yako said:


> It was a major hassle. I called several brokers and all the big companies, no one insures home made boats. I eventually found someone that would cover it. Allie at charter lakes insurance took good care of me.


Good to know 🤙


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Yako said:


> they did not require a survey, but they did ask lots of questions regarding the build process, my experience, the plans, etc. I had to send pictures of the entire build process.


Charter Lakes insured my heavily modified aluminum skiff with nothing but I told them.


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## Dobre (Nov 19, 2019)

Awesome work man and quick too! Good to know on the insurance also. Cant wait to see it with the platform on.
I do have a question though. Are you worried at all with how high that transom is? Not sure how heavy the tohatsu is but with the JP and all do you think itll be plenty sturdy?


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## jonny (May 1, 2007)

If you run into clearance issues. I worked with the Uflex guys about this problem of hitting the transom with jackplates. They had another adjustable fitting I thought could remedy the situation. They ran it through engineering and pressure tested it on a steering system. The engineers gave it the green light for use for steering. Here are the fittings


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## jonny (May 1, 2007)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Flush because the hydraulic fittings for steering cylinder usually have very little if any clearance when the outboard is trimmed up enough to be out of the water when poling. Some will actually hit the transom depending on what configuration. Last thing you want is more transom in the way. I’ve added jackplates to some skiffs and the outboard had to be lifted to the highest holes and fittings had to be tweaked so they didn’t hit.


Yep Atlas Micro jackers have the perfect setback. Where your fittings are directly over the transom 😩


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

Dobre said:


> Awesome work man and quick too! Good to know on the insurance also. Cant wait to see it with the platform on.
> I do have a question though. Are you worried at all with how high that transom is? Not sure how heavy the tohatsu is but with the JP and all do you think itll be plenty sturdy?


thanks! Fair question. I would have preferred the transom kick up not be as high, but there just aren’t many 15” motors around. I believe it will be strong enough, that coosa 26lb board is very stiff. It’s also very dense and embedded with glass. I also heavily reinforced that area. If it starts cracking, I know will know how to fix it myself.


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

jonny said:


> If you run into clearance issues. I worked with the Uflex guys about this problem of hitting the transom with jackplates. They had another adjustable fitting I thought could remedy the situation. They ran it through engineering and pressure tested it on a steering system. The engineers gave it the green light for use for steering. Here are the fittings
> View attachment 223750
> 
> View attachment 223751


Thanks Jonny. If I have clearance issues I’ll get with you.


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Charter Lakes insured my heavily modified aluminum skiff with nothing but I told them.


 That’s good to know.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Yako said:


> That’s good to know.


I left out a word…
“Nothing but what I told them”


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

Skiff has power! Motor install is complete and I’m loving how she turned out.


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## CKEAT (Aug 26, 2015)

Looks great!


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Very nice man! Go slime it up.


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

Beautiful skiff man, you made quick work of it


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

Today was a great day!! Splashed the boat for the first time. She did really nice, and everything went smoothly.
Motor is breaking in but I did open her up some. With the heavily cupped jack foreman prop she will run all the way jacked up and still bite, very little if any cavitation. The prop is really holding back the rpms some I believe. She cruised around at 4800-4900 rpm wide open. She just got up to 5300rpm all the way jacked up (top speed 32). 

if you have any ideas on the rpm/ speed I’m getting id love to hear. I feel as though it’s a bit lower than expected.

overall the first run went great, she jumps up on plane easily, runs really dry, everything went very smoothly!


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

Yako said:


> Today was a great day!! Splashed the boat for the first time. She did really nice, and everything went smoothly.
> Motor is breaking in but I did open her up some. With the heavily cupped jack foreman prop she will run all the way jacked up and still bite, very little if any cavitation. The prop is really holding back the rpms some I believe. She cruised around at 4800-4900 rpm wide open. She just got up to 5300rpm all the way jacked up (top speed 32).
> 
> if you have any ideas on the rpm/ speed I’m getting id love to hear. I feel as though it’s a bit lower than expected.
> ...


Get her broke in and run it some more playing with JP and trim angles vs loads. Then come back to dial it all in. Not bad numbers for a first run, rpm’s could be higher though.


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