# 17.5 ft Panga restore.



## Guest (Dec 23, 2018)

Cool!


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

That's a lot of work. Now you just have to fair it


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## Cut Runner (Jan 25, 2017)

Yes!


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Lots to do before i even think about fairing. Not building show boat but will fair it some. Gonna gel coat the very bottom then paint the sides.


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## Cronced (Nov 18, 2016)

That's pretty sweet. Pangas are such unique looking boats. Enjoy that project!


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## Salt of the Water (Feb 26, 2018)

Nice! 

Your hull has a pretty serious "hump" at the keel to bow transition. It's going to want to really ride bow up on you once you're planing. That's a good thing in rough water but annoying when it's calm and you want more speed or to run sitting down. 

Don't know if you had tabs in your plan, but looking at the bottom of your hull, I think you're going to want them. 

You could keep more weight forward to counteract, but if you try and fish with an angler on the bow in the skinny stuff you're going to be bumping bottom with the bow.


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## Marsh Pirate (Sep 15, 2016)

I have liked Pangas for years now. I'm very interested in your restore. Good luck!


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Salt of the Water said:


> Nice!
> 
> Your hull has a pretty serious "hump" at the keel to bow transition. It's going to want to really ride bow up on you once you're planing. That's a good thing in rough water but annoying when it's calm and you want more speed or to run sitting down.
> 
> ...




I love bow high boats for some reason.


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## noeettica (Sep 23, 2007)

Love it !


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## BassFlats (Nov 26, 2018)

I built this high bow skiff a few years ago. Positive - good in rough seas. Negative- it catches a lot of wind.


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## Cronced (Nov 18, 2016)

BassFlats said:


> I built this high bow skiff a few years ago. Positive - good in rough seas. Negative- it catches a lot of wind.
> View attachment 55412


Woah... that is sweet!


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Getting the glass ready. Been real busy lately. I think I have most of the supplies needed to start soon.


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## BassFlats (Nov 26, 2018)

Well, don't keep us in suspense. What's your renovation plans with the panga. Interior layout? Power? Other goodies?


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

25hp 2stroke tiller. Grab bar with cooler seat. open layout with small front deck. lots of open space to fish. possible rear bench seat. All composite rebuild due to obtaining really cheap materials otherwise i could never do without wood.


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## Salt of the Water (Feb 26, 2018)

Updates?


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

Makin any progress on the panga man?


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

GoGataGo52__20 said:


> Makin any progress on the panga man?


 Had two herniated discs, and a new baby but back at it now.
Bottom has gel coat and pressed in the transom today.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)




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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

Sweet man!


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Transom is in. Going to tab it in then start floor and rear deck.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

This is how I scribed the shape of the transom. Very fast with a hot glue gun







.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Popsicle stick bulk head template method. Lol.


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## Fritz (Jan 17, 2017)

That transom scribe shortcut is good stuff man! I’m putting that idea into my toolkit. Thanks.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Want a grab bar setup like this. Anyone know who in SWFL would build one at reasonable price?


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## Salt of the Water (Feb 26, 2018)

Your build is moving right along! Good work.


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## Backcountry 16 (Mar 15, 2016)

PG350 said:


> Want a grab bar setup like this. Anyone know who in SWFL would build one at reasonable price?
> View attachment 101322


Action welding in Cape Coral best marine welder around no sure how much one would be though


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

How do you like that mini belt sander? That's on list to acquire.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

PG350 said:


> Want a grab bar setup like this. Anyone know who in SWFL would build one at reasonable price?
> View attachment 101322


Consider contacting a boat builder like Ankona/Salt Marsh which has options for a similar cooler cradle with grab bar setup. Might be cheaper than having one built


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## Fishtex (May 10, 2014)

PG350 said:


> Want a grab bar setup like this. Anyone know who in SWFL would build one at reasonable price?
> View attachment 101322


This might work: https://www.boatbuildercentral.com/proddetail.php?prod=BE_grabbar


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Sublime said:


> How do you like that mini belt sander? That's on list to acquire.


Works great for tight spots. So far I am very happy and it did not cost much.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Thanks for the suggestions


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Update,
I am going to do a 30 inch rear deck from the rear of the boat, grab bar/cooler seat in middle and keeping the small front deck. I will be making support knees where needed to stiffen the sides and tie everything together. All using composite materials and epoxy resin. I am keeping the floor as low as I can to keep freetboard due to having small children.

Outside will be painted clean green and inside will be beige // sand color.

Will get either tuff tiller or carbon tiller extension by Microskiff member.

I think I will make a spot on the front where I can just clamp a transom mount trolling motor the the hull up front.

I have a 2 stroke 25hp tiller Mariner/mercury for power.

Debating on flotation under floor and under front deck and or rear deck.

Picture below is the color scheme I am going for.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Got more supplies. So far this pro marine epoxy has been great and it comes with calibrated pumps making it easy. Only 69 bucks for gallon kit with pumps.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

These are all epoxied in place. This was dry fitting.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

I tried measuring but I'm not that accurate so back to the popsicle sticks.


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## Battfisher (Jan 18, 2016)

PG350 said:


> View attachment 102838
> View attachment 102840
> View attachment 102842
> I tried measuring but I'm not that accurate so back to the popsicle sticks.


That foam insulation board actually sands VERY easily - so you can measure and oversize the cut, then just sand it with 60 or 80 grit sandpaper or a sanding block to fit. You can then to the same with the composite core material (looks like coosa maybe?) for the final fit. I've seen on this site that you want to have a little gap in between the edge of the core/sheathing and the hull that gets filled with the epoxy/bonding putty. Seemed to work fine on my rebuild and makes the fitment a lot easier.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

I now have the shape transferred to the coosa. I should have small gap to fill with thickened epoxy. Will cut it out and dry fit tomorrow.


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## dlpanadero (Mar 9, 2016)

Sublime said:


> How do you like that mini belt sander? That's on list to acquire.


I bit the bullet a few months ago and dropped about $280 on one (Makita 9031 1 1/8") prior to starting a big rebuild project.. excellent investment if you do any kind of fiberglass repair. Shoots all the dust in a straight line directly behind it. Follow behind with a vacuum hose and it sucks up 99% of all dust. Much much slower than an angle grinder, but I'll take the dust-free benefit any day. I also bought a little pneumatic 3/4" x 24" Taylor bandfile sander but haven't used it nearly as much as the Makita.


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## dlpanadero (Mar 9, 2016)

Very cool project. Love the World War I style respirator mask


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Lol, The mask was an old SWAT mask that was given to me. I just bought new cartridges. I bought the cheap belt sander but I'm only using a little bit. I bet that makita is nice. I'm sure you can tell Im not a big spender.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)




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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Battfisher said:


> That foam insulation board actually sands VERY easily - so you can measure and oversize the cut, then just sand it with 60 or 80 grit sandpaper or a sanding block to fit. You can then to the same with the composite core material (looks like coosa maybe?) for the final fit. I've seen on this site that you want to have a little gap in between the edge of the core/sheathing and the hull that gets filled with the epoxy/bonding putty. Seemed to work fine on my rebuild and makes the fitment a lot easier.


I used your suggestion and grounded the edges of the coosa to get a nice fit. It does sand easy. I used it alot to shape the under deck supports. 
Only problem is that you need full gas mask as it is full of glass. Actually seems worst than glass because I get serious fiberglass splinters from handling it. 

It also dulls jig saw blades really fast.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Gluing floor down with thickened epoxy. The containers are full of water for weight. I will water the plants with it when I'm done.


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## dlpanadero (Mar 9, 2016)

Looking great. You are braver than I using the water  I epoxied in the floor on my project a few weeks ago and figured with my luck I’d probably spill one of the big garbage bins of water and ruin the entire thing. Fortunately I had about a dozen old 12v batteries lying around that I used for the weight.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

I have the boat covered and a space heater in it to keep the temp ok for the epoxy.


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

Lookin good man! Keep up the good work!


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Getting boat ready for some 1708.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

This took a gallon and a half of epoxy. Could have used a little more but ran out. It will be ok though. Ordering more epoxy today.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Went out after floor cured and it's as solid as a rock. Very happy with it.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

You're wasting a lot of epoxy on that "08" part of 1708... Its just CSM which is helpful in poly/vinyl ester resins, but not required for epoxy.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

yobata said:


> You're wasting a lot of epoxy on that "08" part of 1708... Its just CSM which is helpful in poly/vinyl ester resins, but not required for epoxy.


I'm sure I am, but I got a super deal on my supplies and basically got 50 yards of 1708 for free. I obtained three and a half sheets of coosa and the 50 yards 1708 for 300.00.


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## dlpanadero (Mar 9, 2016)

yobata said:


> You're wasting a lot of epoxy on that "08" part of 1708... Its just CSM which is helpful in poly/vinyl ester resins, but not required for epoxy.


Epoxy resin works very well with 1708. Not really sure what’s meant when you say ‘helpful’ in poly and vinylester resins.


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## dlpanadero (Mar 9, 2016)

PG350 said:


> I'm sure I am, but I got a super deal on my supplies and basically got 50 yards of 1708 for free. I obtained three and a half sheets of coosa and the 50 yards 1708 for 300.00.


Wow that is a good deal. You use 1/2” or 3/4”?


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

dlpanadero said:


> Wow that is a good deal. You use 1/2” or 3/4”?


3/4 inch for transom supports and rear deck. 1/2 inch for floor.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

dlpanadero said:


> Epoxy resin works very well with 1708. Not really sure what’s meant when you say ‘helpful’ in poly and vinylester resins.


He was just letting me know it was not needed. He was just being helpful. I always appreciate help from everyone.


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## dlpanadero (Mar 9, 2016)

PG350 said:


> He was just letting me know it was not needed. He was just being helpful. I always appreciate help from everyone.


Inaccurate information is not helpful, in fact can be the opposite. But anyway that’s all from me, keep up the great work and enjoy your rebuild. I’m enjoying following the progress


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

dlpanadero said:


> Inaccurate information is not helpful, in fact can be the opposite. But anyway that’s all from me, keep up the great work and enjoy your rebuild. I’m enjoying following the progress



Thanks, I appreciate the feedback.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

dlpanadero said:


> Epoxy resin works very well with 1708. Not really sure what’s meant when you say ‘helpful’ in poly and vinylester resins.


CSM usually has a styrene binder that dissolves in polyester and vinyl ester resins, but not in epoxy resins. The styrene can have the effect of stopping the epoxy resin from fully wetting out the mat. In addition, the csm isn't what's providing the strength in that fabric and my supplier usually has 17oz for cheaper than the 08 version.

Feel free to use whatever you want, I'm not OSHA or the EPA...


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## Goldmine (Aug 29, 2017)

Did you fiberglass the underside of the floor that is bonded to the stringers? What did you use to glue it down, thickend epoxy? Did you coat the bottom with neat resin? Asking so I can learn what to do. Coosa states that it soaks up <1% water intrusion. I know water can wreak havoc on materials. All of the wood in my projects was rotten.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

yobata said:


> CSM usually has a styrene binder that dissolves in polyester and vinyl ester resins, but not in epoxy resins. The styrene can have the effect of stopping the epoxy resin from fully wetting out the mat. In addition, the csm isn't what's providing the strength in that fabric and my supplier usually has 17oz for cheaper than the 08 version.
> 
> Feel free to use whatever you want, I'm not OSHA or the EPA...


This is accurate info. Unless the 1708 has epoxy specific CSM the binder won't dissolve. Even then the epoxy compatible 1708 I tried was not nearly as easy to wet out as the 1700. CSM is for bulking when you need thickness, stopping print through or telegraphing, and to help bind layers in an ester resin build, not really for strength.
It will work out ok, especially if it's free, just needs a bit more resin and will add some weight.


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## dlpanadero (Mar 9, 2016)

yobata said:


> CSM usually has a styrene binder that dissolves in polyester and vinyl ester resins, but not in epoxy resins. The styrene can have the effect of stopping the epoxy resin from fully wetting out the mat. In addition, the csm isn't what's providing the strength in that fabric and my supplier usually has 17oz for cheaper than the 08 version.
> 
> Feel free to use whatever you want, I'm not OSHA or the EPA...


Not accurate. The csm in 1708 and other biaxials is stitched, there is no styrene binder. Thus it’s perfectly compatible with epoxy resin. Not trying to argue w anyone at all here, just trying to get the appropriate information out there. Most chopped strand mats do use a styrene binder to hold the fibers together, but like I said, this is not the case for 1708.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

dlpanadero said:


> Not accurate. The csm in 1708 and other biaxials is stitched, there is no styrene binder. Thus it’s perfectly compatible with epoxy resin. Not trying to argue w anyone at all here, just trying to get the appropriate information out there. Most chopped strand mats do use a styrene binder to hold the fibers together, but like I said, this is not the case for 1708.


I'm sorry but that is not right. It is bound, then stitched to the biaxial. Otherwise they would need to run a stitch through every single fiber of the CSM. That is why they have specific epoxy compatible types, those use a modified binder that will break down even with epoxy. If you have published info to the contrary then post it, but I've played with a lot of this stuff and can tell you there is definitely a binder holding the CSM together.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

All I can say is that it does work fine. I'm sure 1700 would be great and use less epoxy also. 

I will check my 1708 to see if it has binder or just stitching as I am curious now. Fun to learn


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Goldmine said:


> Did you fiberglass the underside of the floor that is bonded to the stringers? What did you use to glue it down, thickend epoxy? Did you coat the bottom with neat resin? Asking so I can learn what to do. Coosa states that it soaks up <1% water intrusion. I know water can wreak havoc on materials. All of the wood in my projects was rotten.


I did not glass the bottom or coat it. I glued it down with thickened epoxy and fillets. Glassing the bottom would obviously be better but I did not feel necessary as my bilge will be 100 percent sealed and air tight. Also I trailer and store my boat in my garage.


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## dlpanadero (Mar 9, 2016)

firecat1981 said:


> I'm sorry but that is not right. It is bound, then stitched to the biaxial. Otherwise they would need to run a stitch through every single fiber of the CSM. That is why they have specific epoxy compatible types, those use a modified binder that will break down even with epoxy. If you have published info to the contrary then post it, but I've played with a lot of this stuff and can tell you there is definitely a binder holding the CSM together.


I can assure you there is no chemical styrene binder in 1708 or other biaxial cloths.

From US Composites: "The mat in this fabric is stitched and fully compatible with polyester, vinyl ester and epoxy resins."

Read the following product descriptions

http://www.uscomposites.com/specialty.html
https://www.fgci.com/item/125565/Fiberglass-Biaxial-1708-nonwoven-0-90-deg-roving-ROLL-only/

From Boatworks Today:

"Regular CSM sold here in the US is held together using a styrene based binder which dissolves when it comes in contact with PE or VE (which are styrene based resins). This type of CSM does not work well with epoxy for that reason. There are some manufacturers that make CSM using a powder binder that does work perfectly fine with epoxy. This material will be labeled as Epoxy Compatible. As for the CSM that is used on the backside of 1708, that is all held together by stitching. There is no binder used (styrene or powder based) to inhibit the use of epoxy."


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

I think you may be right dude! Here is a link from Fiberglass Warehouse with the same info:
https://www.fiberglasswarehouse.com/ultimate-fiberglass-and-resin-guidebook-for-beginners/

_Knitted fabric is bundled and stitched together. It wets out fast and provides maximum directional strength. It saves time in multi-layer layups. There is no crimping since the fabric is stitched instead of woven.


Knitted fabric is also a good option in boat building and in the composite industry. The most common knitted fabric is DBM 1708. The 1708 is a 17 ounce +/-45 bias fabric with a 3/4 ounce chopped strand mat stitched to it.


Knitted fabric is compatible with polyester, vinyl ester and epoxy resin. It is compatible with epoxy even though it has mat with it. *The mat that is stitched to the fabric does not have a styrene binder like the regular chopped strand mat.
*_


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

Looks like you are right according to that, but I don't see how. Both of the 1708's and the 1808 I have both clearly have something binding the fibers together in between the stitching. In fact you can separate the CSM and the fibers are still bonded together. Either way I'll concede, cause I'll hopefully never need to use it again as epoxy prices have come down in recent years.


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## dlpanadero (Mar 9, 2016)

firecat1981 said:


> Looks like you are right according to that, but I don't see how. Both of the 1708's and the 1808 I have both clearly have something binding the fibers together in between the stitching. In fact you can separate the CSM and the fibers are still bonded together. Either way I'll concede, cause I'll hopefully never need to use it again as epoxy prices have come down in recent years.


Hmm yeah that is an interesting point about being able to peel off the CSM layer and the fibers stay stuck together. Maybe these manufacturers are just feeding us all a bunch of bullshit  Wouldn't be surprised. I know there's a non-styrene powder that can be used to hold fibers together, so could be that as well. Who knows really. I will say that the 1708 I work with the CSM fibers very easily become separated and fall off.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Happy to report that the floor is solid as a rock. Moving on to rear deck now that I have more epoxy.


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

Well it looks good either way binder or not man. Good clean work


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)




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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Plan was to glass in the rear deck today but rain came out of no where. I glued it down with thickened epoxy but will have to sand a little and glass tomorrow. I was planning on two supports under rear deck but one is more than enough especially after the deck is glassed in.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Rear deck glassed in. Only other major structural items I need to make are some knees/ side supports to stiffen up the hull. Going to keep the entire cockpit open except for grab bar.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Rear deck glassed in. I did chop strand side up on the 1708 so when I sand it smooth I will not be sanding into the stitched cloth. Never did







this before but it was recommended and it makes sense.


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

Sweet man! Question, what color are you gonna paint her when your done? Or are you gonna leave her as is?


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Already bought the paint. I got as close to this as I could.


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## Zika (Aug 6, 2015)

That will look good. Are you planning on sticking with a level deck forward or adding a raised section in the bow like the color sample boat?


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Mine already has a small deck and I am keeping it that way for ease if use. I dont pole or really sightfish that much. Here is a pic of the small front deck before I put in the new floor.


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## Zika (Aug 6, 2015)

Gotcha. Didn't remember seeing that shot of the bow. That should work nicely for your style of fishing.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)




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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Tons of work completed, tons of work left. I did order a aluminum grab bar and cooler cradle from a local aluminum shop, hope it turns out.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Thinking of cutting out the small deck and making a bigger one, but I dont have enough coosa and dont know if I want to spend the extra money and time on something I would really only be doing for looks.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

forgot this one


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## Battfisher (Jan 18, 2016)

PG350 said:


> Thinking of cutting out the small deck and making a bigger one, but I dont have enough coosa and dont know if I want to spend the extra money and time on something I would really only be doing for looks.


Why Coosa for the deck? 5# foam with biax glass on each side would be plenty strong. I used 2 layers of 1208 on each side for the decks on my Gheenoe, and there’s no flex with my 240# son on them.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Battfisher said:


> Why Coosa for the deck? 5# foam with biax glass on each side would be plenty strong. I used 2 layers of 1208 on each side for the decks on my Gheenoe, and there’s no flex with my 240# son on them.


Where do you order that type of foam?


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Fiberglass Florida sells h60 divinycell in 1/2"....
Or just use 3/8" marine ply since you're already using epoxy


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## Battfisher (Jan 18, 2016)

PG350 said:


> Where do you order that type of foam?


There's a marine supply store up in Tampa that I bought my foam from - I think the 4x8 sheets of 3/4" foam were around $90? Got the info from @Boatbrains.


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## Guest (Jan 3, 2020)

Fiberglass Discount Store


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## dlpanadero (Mar 9, 2016)

Looking really great, will be such a cool boat when it's ready for the water. How perfect are you going to try and get with the fairing? Also what are you planning on using for your paint/primer? I decided the other day to go with paint instead of gelcoat and man that stuff gets expensive after all the damn primer, reducers/thinners non skid additive etc. I'm using interlux perfection with their epoxy primekote underneath.


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## Guest (Jan 3, 2020)

dlpanadero said:


> Looking really great, will be such a cool boat when it's ready for the water. How perfect are you going to try and get with the fairing? Also what are you planning on using for your paint/primer? I decided the other day to go with paint instead of gelcoat and man that stuff gets expensive after all the damn primer, reducers/thinners non skid additive etc. I'm using interlux perfection with their epoxy primekote underneath.


Tell me about it, I have $900.00 worth of Alexseal for sale on here but will most likely be painting the topside of the Shipoke with half and maybe my Dad’s old truck with the other half!


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## dlpanadero (Mar 9, 2016)

Boatbrains said:


> Tell me about it, I have $900.00 worth of Alexseal for sale on here but will most likely be painting the topside of the Shipoke with half and maybe my Dad’s old truck with the other half!


Ah haha! So that must be your Tampa Craigslist ad too then for the alexseal paint? Was actually going to message you about that but it was a lot more than I needed. I’m only doing the cockpit floor with interlux, gunwales and forward deck are gelcoat so I’ll just be using some gelcoat that I already have. Only reason I’m using paint in the cockpit is cos I used an epoxy fairing compound


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## Guest (Jan 3, 2020)

dlpanadero said:


> Ah haha! So that must be your Tampa Craigslist ad too then for the alexseal paint? Was actually going to message you about that but it was a lot more than I needed. I’m only doing the cockpit floor with interlux, gunwales and forward deck are gelcoat so I’ll just be using some gelcoat that I already have. Only reason I’m using paint in the cockpit is cos I used an epoxy fairing compound


I’d say that’s a high probability!


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

I have been wondering the same thing about how much fairing I am willing to do. My herniated disc is really been activated from all the grinding and sanding so that might be the determining factor. Also the family really wants to get on the water. 

This is purely a fishing boat that will get used alot so not a show boat. I am using blue water marine paint for low cost and ease of touch up. I used this paint in the past and for my application it is fine. I gel coated the very bottom for durability though.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Went to pick up grab bar and we miscommunicated on a small shelf that was supposed to be facing towards the rear of boat. They are fixing it and I will pick it up on Monday. Going to paint the grab bar also. 

Grab bar is 46 inches tall and made to fit 55 quart rotomolded cooler.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Just curious what do you all think would be a fare price to pay for this grab bar?


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## dlpanadero (Mar 9, 2016)

PG350 said:


> Just curious what do you all think would be a fare price to pay for this grab bar?


Not in any way familiar with welding/fabrication but just looking at what it is I would think not much more than 400 or so


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

That's about what I paid. Said about four hours plus material.


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## Guest (Jan 4, 2020)

PG350 said:


> That's about what I paid. Said about four hours plus material.


I’d say your in the ballpark of normal.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Boatbrains said:


> I’d say your in the ballpark of normal.



Ok thank you


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## Adam89 (Nov 12, 2019)

I have a buddy that does welding/fabricating that lives in central Florida. He’s making me this grab bar for $120


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## Adam89 (Nov 12, 2019)

Great job so far btw!!!


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Damn, that's a bargain. Always nice to have good friends.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Getting side supports ready. Using pink foam to get the shape then transferring to 3/4 inch coosa. I'm sure this look real ******* to some of you professionals on here, lol.


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## Adam89 (Nov 12, 2019)

are you also making gunnels for this or are the supports just going to be glassed with nothing else?


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Just glassed in real good with 1708 and epoxy. I want as much of an open cockpit as I can. See any issues with the plan? I'm no professional, just do things that are are in my skill set.


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## Adam89 (Nov 12, 2019)

PG350 said:


> Just glassed in real good with 1708 and epoxy. I want as much of an open cockpit as I can. See any issues with the plan? I'm no professional, just do things that are are in my skill set.


I don’t see a problem with it. Was thinking about doing the same with mine to help with the side wall flex.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Figuring out where to mount the grab bar. 

Let me know what you guys think. Going to glass in strips of coosa to mount it to, no screws in the floor.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

PG350 said:


> View attachment 110810
> View attachment 110812
> View attachment 110814
> 
> ...


Just for size comparison the grab bar is 46 inches tall and 17 inches wide with 55qt cooler.


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## Adam89 (Nov 12, 2019)

Going to glass in strips of coosa to mount it to, no screws in the floor.[/QUOTE]
I like this idea


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Going to laminate two strips of 1/2 inch coosa with 2 layers of 1708 in between and on top for screw holding abilities.


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## Guest (Jan 9, 2020)

PG350 said:


> Going to laminate two strips of 1/2 inch coosa with 2 layers of 1708 in between and on top for screw holding abilities.


Maybe cut a small recess into it for rod storage before you begin glassing?

Just an idea.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Aldoni said:


> Maybe cut a small recess into it for rod storage before you begin glassing?
> 
> Just an idea.


Not sure what you mean, could you help me understand better.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)




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## Guest (Jan 9, 2020)

PG350 said:


> Not sure what you mean, could you help me understand better.


If you notch the supports you can lay your fishing rods horizontally. Saves space. And it would be minimal work to incorporate at this point. Just figured Id let you know its an option.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Aldoni said:


> If you notch the supports you can lay your fishing rods horizontally. Saves space. And it would be minimal work to incorporate at this point. Just figured Id let you know its an option.
> 
> View attachment 110974


lol, I thought you were talking about the coosa i will be glassing to the floor to mount the grab bar.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

My neck and back are on fire. Its crazy how much work goes into glassing. Grind, clean, prep, measure, make template, make part, fine tune fitment, epoxy in place, prep again, measure glass cloth, cut glass cloth, mix epoxy, mix epoxy, mix epoxy, mix epoxy, change gloves, change gloves, stretch back and repeat....... Maybe I should buy a boat next time... lol 

Time to water test soon


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## Guest (Jan 9, 2020)

PG350 said:


> My neck and back are on fire. Its crazy how much work goes into glassing. Grind, clean, prep, measure, make template, make part, fine tune fitment, epoxy in place, prep again, measure glass cloth, cut glass cloth, mix epoxy, mix epoxy, mix epoxy, mix epoxy, change gloves, change gloves, stretch back and repeat....... Maybe I should buy a boat next time... lol
> 
> Time to water test soon


Can't put a price on knowing its done right.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

It's done. Not sure if it's right. Lol.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)




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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)




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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)




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## Guest (Jan 15, 2020)

PG350 said:


> Getting side supports ready. Using pink foam to get the shape then transferring to 3/4 inch coosa. I'm sure this look real ******* to some of you professionals on here, lol.
> View attachment 110040
> View attachment 110042
> View attachment 110044


Nothin’ wrong with ******* my friend! That cheap foam makes great templates that you can sand to fit and make your part a nice tight fit up! Good work!


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## Guest (Jan 15, 2020)

I actually wish you were closer, I’d like to have a look at this gem in person!


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Boatbrains said:


> I actually wish you were closer, I’d like to have a look at this gem in person!


I love the size and look of this hull. She was very rough when I got her but will be perfect for what I do. I have never seen a panga the same size or exactly the same. Title says homemade so no idea about who built her.


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## Guest (Jan 15, 2020)

PG350 said:


> I love the size and look of this hull. She was very rough when I got her but will be perfect for what I do. I have never seen a panga the same size or exactly the same. Title says homemade so no idea about who built her.


I get it, I love the panga design when properly implemented!


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)




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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Its low tech but is fast and works great.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Getting ready to test the transom height before finishing the transom. Also testing to see how long of a tiller extension I need. Obviously lots of other items still not finished.


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

heck ya buddy...lookin good


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## Adam89 (Nov 12, 2019)

PG350 said:


> Getting ready to test the transom height before finishing the transom. Also testing to see how long of a tiller extension I need. Obviously lots of other items still not finished.
> View attachment 113562
> View attachment 113564
> View attachment 113566


Just a thought. Looks like there’s a lot of sun coming through your hull. I know fiberglass lays clear but should the core material not be see through??


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## Guest (Jan 24, 2020)

Adam89 said:


> Just a thought. Looks like there’s a lot of sun coming through your hull. I know fiberglass lays clear but should the core material not be see through??


 that portion is not cored. Can’t speak for the bottom.


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## Zika (Aug 6, 2015)

Coming along nicely. Hopefully the back and neck will hold up until you finish.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Yes Boatbrains no core in my side hulls, floor is coosa. Bare glass on outside and inside so pretty translucent right now.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Tested motor on stand yesterday with zero issues. Put boat in water and would not start until after like 20 pulls then would not idle. Yay. I got the ole familiar blisters between my fingers from pull start. Here are some pics that sum up the day. Still better than work though.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Zika said:


> Coming along nicely. Hopefully the back and neck will hold up until you finish.


Yanking on that pull cord was not fun, got me thing of electric start.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Took carb apart and cleaned it. Nothing looked bad but after dialing it in again it is running good again (on the hose) But then again, so was it yesterday.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Motor started on first pull on a cold morning so let's try this again.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)




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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

I'm happy with 27mph for a almost 18ft boat with an old 25hp. That was with me 230lbs, minimum gear and an extra 8hp longshaft 75lbs, just in case.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)




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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

I want that Nissan!!


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

It will be for sale soon. It has electric start and is pristine under the cover. I'm going to use the money to but trolling motor.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Probably going to extend the front deck out 16 inches for added hull rigidity and storage.


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## Zika (Aug 6, 2015)

Would be a little more roomy and secure for casting in addition to the rigidity and storage.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

I have just enough coosa left to do it so I guess why not.


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## Adam89 (Nov 12, 2019)

PG350 said:


> Probably going to extend the front deck out 16 inches for added hull rigidity and storage.
> View attachment 114386


Highly recommend!


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## texasag07 (Nov 11, 2014)

Looking great!


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)




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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

This damn rain is really pissing me off.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

I kinda like the translucent look.


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## Guest (Feb 1, 2020)

PG350 said:


> This damn rain is really pissing me off.


Me too buddy, me too!


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## Adam89 (Nov 12, 2019)

Boatbrains said:


> Me too buddy, me too!


Yep same here! Between the rain/humidity and the temp not going above 70 degrees, I can’t get anything done


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

More popsicle stick template. I'm just using it to get the shape of the sides n







ot the center. My wife saw the opening and said I hope you're not leaving it like that.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Put a tarp over the boat with a heater to cure the epoxy.


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

Man it looks nice with the bigger deck, plus you don't really lose space for storage with the open bulkhead.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Thank you. The front had a little more movement (wiggle) than I liked in a hard chop so the main reason for this was to stiffen the hull plus a larger deck will be nice. Only thing I will miss is being able to sit on front deck and use front of boat as back rest. Now the edge is too far away to sit like that.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Got the tiller today from Jred. I have to say this thing blew me away with how strong and light it is. It is a quarter of the weight of a single pvc tube like the one I was using for testing. I thought the box was empty when I picked it up.


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## M48SHOOTER (Oct 20, 2019)

carbon fiber tiller extension?


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

M48SHOOTER said:


> carbon fiber tiller extension?


Yes, made by Jred. It is awesome.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Almost ready for glass.


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

Are you going to be making a small bow cap to mount the trolling motor? Or doing a transom mount? And with you popsicle sticks, are you only gluing them to your foam backer board or to the hull sides?


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

I just hot glue them to whatever scrap I have around like cardboard or foam. It literally takes 30 seconds for the entire process because the hot glue cools so fast. I think I will just use transom mount clamped on the front of the boat and might actually make a flat spot for it to clamp to.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)




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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

Sweet man


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

Makin any more progress bud?


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

GoGataGo52__20 said:


> Makin any more progress bud?


Was in he mountains on a pre planned vacation. Just got back and worked on boat today. Need to do lots of sanding and grinding before paint.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

More health problems popped up. This boat might be trying to kill me. The plan was to make it pretty and spend lots of time fairing but at the rate I have been going to the doctor, I just want to go fishing. Today I started sanding in preparation for paint. I'm not fairing this thing. Should be on the water soon weather permitting. 

It's going to look more authentic with all its uneven wavy lines but sure going to be a fishing machine. 

Just for fun I might beach her at full speed like they do down south 




PG350 said:


> Was in he mountains on a pre planned vacation. Just got back and worked on boat today. Need to do lots of sanding and grinding before paint.


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

Sweet man, just the way Panga's were meant to be built / fished.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

I painted outside and the high gloss paint really brings out all the imperfections. Reminds me of the boats from the Mastersom youtube channel. 

Looks like legit panga on a beach in South America


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)




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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

_ shoud have gel coated the entire outside to help sill in all the small imperfections. _


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## BassFlats (Nov 26, 2018)

Masterson would be proud


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Sanding sanding sanding.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

How did I miss this build.... Man you have done a good job on this. There’s so much room for activities. Throw a few bean bag chairs for the family to hang out on, and you have a good family boat. 

Just a suggestion, paint that forward compartment inside with the outside color if you have any left over. Kind of a true to panga fashion. Most pangas I’ve seen have blue insides, but green would work.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Thank you. She really is a true panga. I never thought about painting the open storage under the decks with the outside color. Might add a nice touch. I was thinking about painting my grab bar that color possibly.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)




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## BassFlats (Nov 26, 2018)

Sexy


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

Home stretch!


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## texasag07 (Nov 11, 2014)

Damn that’s a good looking interior, excellent work man. I hope I can find an 18 like that some day!


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

texasag07 said:


> Damn that’s a good looking interior, excellent work man. I hope I can find an 18 like that some day!


Thank you. Looks good from afar. I skipped the detail work and fairing due to health issues and just need to go fishing. Those strips on the floor are where the cooler grab bar will be mounted.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Not sure I like the grab bar painted. Might change later.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

If I repaint the grab bar what color should it be? Black, white, grey? Lighter shade of tan?


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## Zika (Aug 6, 2015)

Nicely done. What engine are you going with? Would look good with a match (Yamaha gray, Mercury black, etc.).


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Zika said:


> Nicely done. What engine are you going with? Would look good with a match (Yamaha gray, Mercury black, etc.).


Do they make "sun faded Mariner grey" ???
Lol


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## Zika (Aug 6, 2015)

Probably not stock, but I'll bet you could find a close match. It would definitely be custom then. Or you could repaint the cowling and the grap bar. Or you could just rig the outboard and go fishing. It does have an island look as is. 

My first boat many years ago was powered by a Mariner 40-hp. They take a licking and keep on ticking.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Mine is a 25hp Mariner which is actually a 25hp Mercury with tiller shift. Love those motors.


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

I think the grab bar will grow on you. Something different than the standard polished, black and white.


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## jasonrl23 (Jul 27, 2009)

I dont see anything wrong with the grab bars color. I think black would look odd, white would stick out so you'd need to throw in some other white accents.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

I would leave the grab bar for now. I agree it will probably grow on you.


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## OED (Feb 26, 2019)

Black


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## RJTaylor (Oct 4, 2017)

I would leave it as is, if it were mine. Looks good.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Thanks, guess I'll leave it for now.


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## firefighter813x (May 14, 2017)

Leave it or replace with ano alum.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

firefighter813x said:


> Leave it or replace with ano alum.


It is aluminum just didn't like the look of plain aluminum. If in the end I dont like it painted, I'll strip it and polish it.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

View attachment 134100


That is a 55qt cooler just for scale.


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## Tautog166 (Jul 7, 2018)

Nice! Time to fish.


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

I like it!


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Quick 1 hour trip to get some dinner and make sure motor is good before longer trip. Daughter caught first fish on the new boat.


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

Congrats!


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## Backcountry 16 (Mar 15, 2016)

Very nice looks great.


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## Zika (Aug 6, 2015)

Congrats. That's a nice tasting dinner right there in the cooler.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Went to cabbage key, cayo costa and bokeelia.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

One of the best parts of a Panga is the efficiency with which a smaller hp motor can push this thing along! Awesome job man


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## Stephen Brecher (May 29, 2020)

Helluva project!!!!!!


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Scotty mount for a depth finder when I decide what to get. I am looking for an affordable one with chart plotter capabilities. Any suggestions?


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

I’m sure there are some good july 4th deals out there for a gps


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

The other day I really put the boat through her paces. I did a 33 mile round trip. I crossed a pretty good chunk of Charlotte Harbor and there was some good chop. I cruised most of the day at about 20 mph with the bimini up due to the horrible heat and still recovering from Covid. The boat will do 26mph with the bimini up and 27 with it down.
Also thought it was interesting that the boat tops out at 27mph with three people and gear or one person and gear.

The boat is extremely dry and handles the chop well for a 17.5ft boat. When you stop and the waves are big or rolling you definitely notice the narrow beam.

After replacing the fuel tank, cleaning the carb, fuel pump and new fuel filters the motor is running great.

I used less than 4 gallons of gas the entire day. To me that is great mileage considering my last tri hull would use 15 gallons on same trip.

I used a push net to catch some shrimp and caught a few fish for dinner using the shrimp I caught. Pretty good day.


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

That’s awesome. Was that the trip you had 2 motors off the back? And gps recommendations lowrance elite and simrad are my go to. I just upgraded my navionics platinum plus card for my lowrance. Not fmt but for 100$ I’m happy with it and the earth overlay.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

I


ceejkay said:


> That’s awesome. Was that the trip you had 2 motors off the back? And gps recommendations lowrance elite and simrad are my go to. I just upgraded my navionics platinum plus card for my lowrance. Not fmt but for 100$ I’m happy with it and the earth overlay.


I always have the 8hp mounted just as a backup until I'm confident the 25 not going to leave me stranded again. I think the videos you saw were from 2 different days. 

So you have a lowerance elite and then 100 dollars for a map card that you put into it? Actually never has a chartplotter before?


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## dlpanadero (Mar 9, 2016)

Awesome!! Congratulations!!


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

PG350 said:


> I
> 
> 
> I always have the 8hp mounted just as a backup until I'm confident the 25 not going to leave me stranded again. I think the videos you saw were from 2 different days.
> ...


Yup. And get daily updates to the chart if I want for a year. Here’s before and after the new chip with satellite overlay


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

ceejkay said:


> Yup. And get daily updates to the chart if I want for a year. Here’s before and after the new chip with satellite overlay
> View attachment 144604
> View attachment 144606


Nice
Thanks.


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## Shallows (Mar 29, 2020)

PG350 said:


> If I repaint the grab bar what color should it be? Black, white, grey? Lighter shade of tan?


A much darker shade of that blue hull paint for contrast, like one of these teal - would lean on the dark side:


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## Shallows (Mar 29, 2020)

PG, Panga looks awesome, how did you build up the floor for the grab bar? Want to do something similar on mine soon so not to drill holes in floor.


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## Shallows (Mar 29, 2020)

PG350 said:


> So you have a lowerance elite and then 100 dollars for a map card that you put into it? Actually never has a chartplotter before?


If you want something really cheap buy Navionics+ smartphone app - just find a way to mount your phone hands free and then change settings so screen doesn't sleep. Although that won't help your depth finding capability unfortunately.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

It is 


Shallows said:


> PG, Panga looks awesome, how did you build up the floor for the grab bar? Want to do something similar on mine soon so not to drill holes in floor.


3/4 inch coosa with thickened epoxy fillets and 3 layers of 1708. Should have done a better job on the ends but really wanted to get on the water and rushed it.


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

That's a delicious looking haul there -- nice job! Glad to hear you're getting to enjoy your hard work.


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## Shallows (Mar 29, 2020)

PG350 said:


> It is
> 
> 3/4 inch coosa with thickened epoxy fillets and 3 layers of 1708. Should have done a better job on the ends but really wanted to get on the water and rushed it.


Well, it looks good - it does the job. Did you have to buy an entire coosa sheet, or did you find somewhere that sells smaller pieces? That stuff looks pretty pricey online.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Shallows said:


> Well, it looks good - it does the job. Did you have to buy an entire coosa sheet, or did you find somewhere that sells smaller pieces? That stuff looks pretty pricey online.


The entire build is composites but I got enough for the entire deal for 300 on craigslist. Was an unbelievable bargain. I have some 1 /2 inch scraps you could laminate and use. Where are you located?


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## Shallows (Mar 29, 2020)

PG350 said:


> The entire build is composites but I got enough for the entire deal for 300 on craigslist. Was an unbelievable bargain. I have some 1 /2 inch scraps you could laminate and use. Where are you located?


Thanks you very much for the offer PG, I had actually just ordered some G10 - so gonna give that a try at least. My boat is made out of Coosa - so I had wanted to use it initially, but kept searching online and couldn't find anyone that sells just a small pieces (only large sheets for hundreds shipped!) - so you really did get one helluva deal to have enough for your whole Panga build at only 300! That works for sure.


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## colonel angus (Jul 11, 2020)

I really enjoyed reading this entire thread. Excellent results! I hope you enjoy your Panga.


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## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

Ordered Yamaha F25, mainly for reliability and light weight. Might try some Tripsmith stuff and go for a 100 mile trip for fun.


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