# Seasquirt 15 rebuild



## 74shark (Apr 6, 2020)

So as you can see chose to attack from the outside. The construction of this boat is a little strange as there is no inner skin. The plywood was simply coated with thickened resin on the inside, which led to the original transom failure. In hindsight going at it from the inside would have been better. After all wood was removed I fabricated an inner skin using divicell foam laminated with alternating layers of 1708 and 1.5oz csm. Sorry I should have taken more pics!


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## 74shark (Apr 6, 2020)

After a fresh layer of csm and 1708 glasses on inner skin promote bonding outer skin replaced and supported.


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## 74shark (Apr 6, 2020)

Cutout filled with glass re enforced filler and carbon core was poured


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## 74shark (Apr 6, 2020)

stuff gets hot when kicking! Transom is rock solid! Will post more pick later ! And tray to do a better job of taking pictures!


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## Leo_Sr5 (Jun 3, 2020)

Nice! Looking forward to the build!


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## Krisztian Francis (Dec 2, 2020)

Hi I am considering redoing a transom with carbon bond. I have seen that it is much heavier than a regular plywood/glass transom. Have you found this to be a problem for you?


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## Bugout1 (Jul 5, 2021)

I just purchased a 1990 15' sea squirt. Cant wait to see what all you get completed with yours. Luckily my transom is solid and the PO just replaced all the foam and everything is solid.


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## 74shark (Apr 6, 2020)

I don’t really notice it is that much heavier than wood. The wood was waterlogged so I imagine that added some weight. Overall I’m not worried about it. Also I’m near completion and during a test the boat planed out and rides normal if that helps.


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## 74shark (Apr 6, 2020)

So after the pour I ground down the seams and removed as much filler as possible. Then built the gap back up with 1708 and csm.


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## 74shark (Apr 6, 2020)

Faired the transom with Total Boat Total Fair as all glass was laid up with epoxy from this point on. Drilling out the hole for the drain plug showed a good bond between the skins and the transom compound.


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## 74shark (Apr 6, 2020)

some deck sections also needed replacing. Was a little difficult due to the way this boat was constructed. Baisically I removed the top skin, removed the wood and strengthened the inner skin. Replaced with marine ply soaked with epoxy and glued the top skin back Bonding it with thickened epoxy. Sorry this is the only pic I took. Used the same method for the main section of deck under the console etc. Foam was replaced also.


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## 74shark (Apr 6, 2020)

Got it in the garage to work on over the winter!


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## 74shark (Apr 6, 2020)

Topside in primed. Topside was done with total boat wet edge. Interior was sprayed .


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## 74shark (Apr 6, 2020)

Tinted the nonskid to match the hull sides as best I could. Come out pretty good.


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## 74shark (Apr 6, 2020)

Hull was also done with Total Boat Wet edge. I rolled the hull sides and found it to come out almost as good as spraying it. Just tough to keep the coats really thin.


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## 74shark (Apr 6, 2020)




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## 74shark (Apr 6, 2020)

rigged up before the first run. I’m trying to get this thing done so I’ll try to get some more detailed picks soon!


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## BassFlats (Nov 26, 2018)

Nice looking skiff


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## dodgerodder (Feb 9, 2021)

Man this brings back great memories!
In the 90’s, Dad had a 15’ Seasquirt. 

Think the hull was mid 80’s.

Loved that boat, good times.

You are doing a great job, looks so good!


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## Liv2float (Aug 24, 2021)

I spent a lot of time in a buddies 15 when I was young. Great boat that caught fish skinny and deep.


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## Panama (12 mo ago)

74shark said:


> Okay, you’ve been under the skin on one of these. I have my eye on a ‘78 that’s been sitting in a yard for a long time. Decent shape but; Hull has matching slight bulges outside on the sides that correspond to the flotation compartments on the inner stern corners. My mission would be to pull the deck, replace foam, stringers and transom with modern materials, and save this venerable craft, but the bulges make me question the integrity of the ass-end of this baby. What’s in there, does your hull flare out back there, is she a lost cause in your opinion?
> View attachment 181449
> 
> rigged up before the first run. I’m trying to get this thing done so I’ll try to get some more detailed picks soon!


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## 74shark (Apr 6, 2020)

Ok, so there is nothing but foam inside these hulls. The transom, deck and the foam between give the hull most of its strength. The “bulges “ you are talking about may be foam expanding against the gunwale which is just how the hull is it doesn’t necessarily mean it’s compromise’s in any way. That being said, you have to be careful how you go about things because the hull will lose its rigidity if you, say, cut out the transom and deck at the same time . Do one at a time and brace the hull as much as possible. The hull and topside deck are sandwiched together and bonded with some type of thickened resin and foam I did the transom first and then recorded the decks removing as little as possible at a time tackling it in sections filling all the compartments back with closed cell foam. I used epoxy for everything except the transom pour.


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## Panama (12 mo ago)

74shark said:


> Ok, so there is nothing but foam inside these hulls. The transom, deck and the foam between give the hull most of its strength. The “bulges “ you are talking about may be foam expanding against the gunwale which is just how the hull is it doesn’t necessarily mean it’s compromise’s in any way. That being said, you have to be careful how you go about things because the hull will lose its rigidity if you, say, cut out the transom and deck at the same time . Do one at a time and brace the hull as much as possible. The hull and topside deck are sandwiched together and bonded with some type of thickened resin and foam I did the transom first and then recorded the decks removing as little as possible at a time tackling it in sections filling all the compartments back with closed cell foam. I used epoxy for everything except the transom pour.


Many thanks. Owner will be back from FL in the spring, I’ll revisit it, take some pics, see what he wants to do with it. Or get a new bare hull and save a lot of agita.


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## 74shark (Apr 6, 2020)

Panama said:


> Many thanks. Owner will be back from FL in the spring, I’ll revisit it, take some pics, see what he wants to do with it. Or get a new bare hull and save a lot of agita.


Yeah figure about a year if you put regular time in


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## 74shark (Apr 6, 2020)

74shark said:


> Yeah figure about a year if you put regular time in


I only paid $500 for bust motor and trailer so it made sense


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## Panama (12 mo ago)

74shark said:


> I only paid $500 for bust motor and trailer so it made sense


The motor was a POS the weight of which over years on bunks partly responsible for the hull distortion IMHO. Gone last check so one less thing. Hope is he just wants it out of there. What HP on your rebuild? Would 25-30 run it once it’s reconfigured as a bare fly fishing platform?


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## 74shark (Apr 6, 2020)

Panama said:


> The motor was a POS the weight of which over years on bunks partly responsible for the hull distortion IMHO. Gone last check so one less thing. Hope is he just wants it out of there. What HP on your rebuild? Would 25-30 run it once it’s reconfigured as a bare fly fishing platform?


I have a 60 hp 2 stroke. It runs ok and gets on plane good honestly 25-30 would be underpowered I would go at least 50


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