# Self leveling Trim Tabs or hydrofoil



## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

I doubt you would see much of a difference really. You may even lose some advantage as I noticed the SE200 helps keep the prop from blowing out on my skiff.


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## topnative2 (Feb 22, 2009)

Don't waste your money.


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## Permit75 (Aug 22, 2014)

Plastic Hydrofoils to be honest just Suck.

Here are the Best Ways to increase Stern Lift to lower the Bow

I had a Skiff built, but wanted to to avoid Electric and stay Manual when adding Performance Items. I would recommend four Items that when combined create incredible Performance and just happens to be fairly inexpensive.

#1 should be a Bob's Cavitation/ Compression Plate ($60). While running it needs to be out of the water with fins just below.(Your Motor may need to be lifted). 

#2 is a set of Bennett SLT Manual Trim Tab Kit ($150) and can later be converted to Electric Tabs. These are best as Fixed Tabs after finding the best angle slightly up to avoid drag and speed loss if you fish shallow water.

#3 add a jack plate (Vance with 4" setback $180) allows easy on the water adjustment/fine tuning raising the Motor without prop blowout. Basic Physics explain the increased speed & MPG, Hull control and more.

#4 S.S. 3 blade double cupped prop matched to optimal Outboard RPM,s.

The first two items should solve your issues, but a Jack Plate without the matched prop is worthless. No problem propping your Skiff without a jack plate.

Hope this helps


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

If you want "stern lift during the hole shot", consider that for a given weight and balance, there is only one motor position that will give optimum results. That position can almost always be attained without a jack plate, and because a jack plate will move motor weight aft, it will actually cause the boat to squat more. Fixed trim tabs may help adjust attitude when at speed, but won't do anything coming out of the hole. A cupped prop is good for limiting blow out when running with the motor raised, but will be less efficient and again won't do anything for your hole shot. Two things may help; trimming the motor down to give more upward thrust, and moving weight forward. A more outrageous solution would be to add flotation pods.


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## jwarren (Aug 23, 2013)

These are all excellent points and I appreciate them. I forget to mention that I'm familiar with JP's and built a fixed riser plate that lifts motor 3-4" leaving Cav Plate about 1" above hull bottom with no blow out. 

I already bought the self leveling trim tabs(still in box) on sale a few months ago...just wasnt sure if I want to start drilling all those holes if this isn't a good idea. Would going to smaller compression plate like Bob's and then adding the trim tabs be a good combo to test before cupping prop, etc??


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## Permit75 (Aug 22, 2014)

I have used Bob's Cavitation Plates for many Mercury 15hp and 25hp 2 strokes. Send Firecat a PM a 
good deal and since we all have back ups to one thing or another and would think then your both happy. 

If your don't understand the why and where to mount since the directions may or may not explain 
using them in a fixed position. Don't install them without someone with hands to prevent any movement once measured, leveled and done drilling. Send me a PM if you have questions. 

Whatever prop you have will work fine with the Cav Plate and Tabs. I always like to maximize a skiff's performance, but even though your motor is know to actually put out 20-22hp then 18hp.


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## Irwin1970 (Jan 18, 2015)

I had the smaller Bennett SLT Manual Trim Tab Kit on my 13ft. Gheenoe LowSider and they worked great with just me in the boat, but when I had coolers, fishing gear and someone else they wore not needed. I wouldn't install yours, JP would be best, unless you build your on trim tabs with turnbuckels.


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