# Artificial bait advice snook and redfish



## EsteroS

I fish with spinning reels, usually buy shrimp, or use greenies or whatever live bait I can catch, but sometimes (mostly) i suck at finding bait. So I want to build up my arsenal of lures for snook and redfish. Fish estero bay, pine island, etc.....you guys have any recommendations, what do you keep in your tackle? I go to bass pro and get the feeling they're just selling product


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## topnative2

snook are tough on artificials

Bomber long-a

mirrolures --topdogs,catch 2000 suspending

D.O.A.-- terror eyzs

bass assasins --- split tail shads use on red jig heads

"chunk fresh bait along mangroves for reds


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## Micro Thinfisher

Search this post lots of good info. there.
*Need a redfish lure for 12'' to 18'' of water.*


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## Zika

DOA BaitBusters for snook (although reds like 'em, too). Shallow-runners if skipping around mangroves, Deep-runner version for distance and open water. Black/silver, olive/pearl and white/red head have all produced big snook for me. 

For reds specifically, my go-to is an Aqua Dream (or Capt. Mike's) weedless 3/8-ounce spoon. Gold is universal, but chartreuse or watermelon is good for clear water, pink for tannin-stained. I add a ball-bearing swivel to the lure's OEM split ring to eliminate line twist.


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## Shadowcast

Weedless (4-5") jerkbait on a 1/8 oz Mustad grip pin hook. With the weight on the hook, you can fish it slow on the bottom or up in water water column. With it being weedless, you can put it near or through any structure (mangroves, docks, grass, etc.).


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## SFL_Mirage

I fish estero bay frequently and have had the best luck/most action on green and silver mirrodine mirrolures. I also only fish fly/artificial. I would recommend not getting discouraged if your tackle doesnt work for the fish in the bay since they get a ridiculous amount of pressure and are hard to come by.


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## SomaliPirate

I've caught all of my biggest snook on jerkbaits rigged in various ways. I lost what would have far and away been a personal best on a Mirrodine. I'm just glad she spit the bait because I had no hope of landing her on the tackle I was using.


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## pointblank

If you go early in the morning, don't rule out a zara spook or yozuri pencil topwater lures. Ususally in bone, white, chartreuse colors.


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## Skram

Mirrodine & the Unfair Rip-n-Slash are my go to's. If the topwater bite is on I like any medium size walk the dog lure or a wakebait.


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## EsteroS

You guys are awesome, thanks, can't wait to go shopping! Do any of you modify or remove the treble hooks on any of your topwaters, and if so, what do you replace them with?


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## JustFish

Just moved my fishing adventures from land based to skiff. Fished Estero bay (or tried) a week ago and was skunked. Any suggestions of areas to try?
Thanks


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## Backcountry 16

Try Matlacha\Pine Island. Estero bay is tough fishing to many kayaks and pontoons.


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## Backcountry 16

Can't go wrong with a Mirrodine as commented on here already but replace the garbage hooks or you'll lose some fish







This is killer for snook also especially on a weed less jig head it's deadly in the glades pitching mangrove.


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## SFL_Mirage

JustFish said:


> Just moved my fishing adventures from land based to skiff. Fished Estero bay (or tried) a week ago and was skunked. Any suggestions of areas to try?
> Thanks


Open up google maps and pick a couple spots to try each trip. Pretty much all the guys on here worked to find their spots so good luck getting much more than a generic location to fish.


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## SKINNYDIPPIN’

Yep pretty much all has been said already. Try different spots on different tides and you’ll eventually build up a nice little list of sweet spots. Nothing beats hours and hours and hours spot hunting. Never a waste of a day imo


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## tcov

I would focus more on the tides, weather, water conditions, etc. These are more important IMO. Now there are times when some baits out perform others for sure, but if the fish are not hungry or in the areas you fish it won’t matter what you throw. Nevertheless, all of the above baits are pretty much the staples of the saltwater game.

Edit: My go to lure is usually a soft plastic jerk bait rigged weedless on a weighted hook. Color usually white or chicken on a chain (or whatever else this color is called).


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## JustFish

Pretty much what I have been doing just scouting locations off map and marking. Didn't really expect someone to hand me there list of gps loc.


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## tcov

Another good tip I’ve found to be mostly true is if the water looks dead with no visible bait activity, birds, etc.. it usually isn’t productive. Now I’ve also had times where I couldn’t buy a strike in areas that had lots of activity, so it’s not always the case.


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## lemaymiami

Here's a different approach (although all the lures listed above will do just fine in the right circumstances...) that I long ago learned works very well for most of the beginners I fish a bit to the south of you (the Everglades coast and interior waters from Flamingo to Chokoloskee...). I set them up with either a bucktail tipped with a tiny bit of shrimp (that bit no bigger than the fingernail on your little finger) or a barbed leadhead with a Gulp tail (99% of the time that tail is either the 4" mullet , basically a curly tail - in pearl white, or a 3" shrimp in New Penny color).

Here's how I rig them - the line on each reel is doubled for about 24" then a short trace of 30 or 40lb fluoro is connected to the doubled line -about another 24" worth (and as the end of the leader gets frayed I cut it back a bit at a time - when the leader is less than 12"... it's replaced...

The size of bucktail or leadhead changes with the depth you're fishing - for less than 4 feet of water it's an 1/8oz head, 4 to 8 feet of water - 1/4 oz head, more than 8 feet of water (or in a strong current...) 3/8 oz... 

Here's a pic or two of what I'm talking about...








My basic 1/4 oz backcountry bucktail - An all white head and tail with a bright red collar is the one we use the most.








These bonefish skimmers in 1/5 oz (the only size available) work well when the fish are in such shallow waters that they stick up their tails and wave at you....









These are barbed leadheads for Gulp (or plastic) tails. They come in every color you can imagine - but most of my orders are for white, fl. yellow, fl. pink, and red. The ones shown are the 1/4 oz size - note the sticky sharp black nickel hooks...









Just finished 100 of these in this color today - the heads are powder coated and baked for hardness...

The way we fish them is pretty simple. I want my angler's to have their rod tips up and them reeling -just fast enough to keep from snagging - with an occasional twitch on the retrieve. If there's any current I have them working across it - if at all possible.... When we're working redfish around structure or off of points (particularly when the water is a bit disturbed I simply add a popping cork above the jig (about two feet or a bit more...) then have them work the cork slowly - like it was topwater lure - making some noise now and then....

Works like a charm - day in and day out... Anyone wanting more info with color pics - send me a PM... Every size leadhead is exactly $1, each bucktail $3 (mostly...).


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## Guest

lemaymiami said:


> Here's a different approach (although all the lures listed above will do just fine in the right circumstances...) that I long ago learned works very well for most of the beginners I fish a bit to the south of you (the Everglades coast and interior waters from Flamingo to Chokoloskee...). I set them up with either a bucktail tipped with a tiny bit of shrimp (that bit no bigger than the fingernail on your little finger) or a barbed leadhead with a Gulp tail (99% of the time that tail is either the 4" mullet , basically a curly tail - in pearl white, or a 3" shrimp in New Penny color).
> 
> Here's how I rig them - the line on each reel is doubled for about 24" then a short trace of 30 or 40lb fluoro is connected to the doubled line -about another 24" worth (and as the end of the leader gets frayed I cut it back a bit at a time - when the leader is less than 12"... it's replaced...
> 
> The size of bucktail or leadhead changes with the depth you're fishing - for less than 4 feet of water it's an 1/8oz head, 4 to 8 feet of water - 1/4 oz head, more than 8 feet of water (or in a strong current...) 3/8 oz...
> 
> Here's a pic or two of what I'm talking about...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My basic 1/4 oz backcountry bucktail - An all white head and tail with a bright red collar is the one we use the most.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These bonefish skimmers in 1/5 oz (the only size available) work well when the fish are in such shallow waters that they stick up their tails and wave at you....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are barbed leadheads for Gulp (or plastic) tails. They come in every color you can imagine - but most of my orders are for white, fl. yellow, fl. pink, and red. The ones shown are the 1/4 oz size - note the sticky sharp black nickel hooks...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just finished 100 of these in this color today - the heads are powder coated and baked for hardness...
> 
> The way we fish them is pretty simple. I want my angler's to have their rod tips up and them reeling -just fast enough to keep from snagging - with an occasional twitch on the retrieve. If there's any current I have them working across it - if at all possible.... When we're working redfish around structure or off of points (particularly when the water is a bit disturbed I simply add a popping cork above the jig (about two feet or a bit more...) then have them work the cork slowly - like it was topwater lure - making some noise now and then....
> 
> Works like a charm - day in and day out... Anyone wanting more info with color pics - send me a PM... Every size leadhead is exactly $1, each bucktail $3 (mostly...).


As always Capt., great info!


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## manny2376

lemaymiami said:


> Here's a different approach (although all the lures listed above will do just fine in the right circumstances...) that I long ago learned works very well for most of the beginners I fish a bit to the south of you (the Everglades coast and interior waters from Flamingo to Chokoloskee...). I set them up with either a bucktail tipped with a tiny bit of shrimp (that bit no bigger than the fingernail on your little finger) or a barbed leadhead with a Gulp tail (99% of the time that tail is either the 4" mullet , basically a curly tail - in pearl white, or a 3" shrimp in New Penny color).
> 
> Here's how I rig them - the line on each reel is doubled for about 24" then a short trace of 30 or 40lb fluoro is connected to the doubled line -about another 24" worth (and as the end of the leader gets frayed I cut it back a bit at a time - when the leader is less than 12"... it's replaced...
> 
> The size of bucktail or leadhead changes with the depth you're fishing - for less than 4 feet of water it's an 1/8oz head, 4 to 8 feet of water - 1/4 oz head, more than 8 feet of water (or in a strong current...) 3/8 oz...
> 
> Here's a pic or two of what I'm talking about...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> My basic 1/4 oz backcountry bucktail - An all white head and tail with a bright red collar is the one we use the most.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These bonefish skimmers in 1/5 oz (the only size available) work well when the fish are in such shallow waters that they stick up their tails and wave at you....
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> These are barbed leadheads for Gulp (or plastic) tails. They come in every color you can imagine - but most of my orders are for white, fl. yellow, fl. pink, and red. The ones shown are the 1/4 oz size - note the sticky sharp black nickel hooks...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Just finished 100 of these in this color today - the heads are powder coated and baked for hardness...
> 
> The way we fish them is pretty simple. I want my angler's to have their rod tips up and them reeling -just fast enough to keep from snagging - with an occasional twitch on the retrieve. If there's any current I have them working across it - if at all possible.... When we're working redfish around structure or off of points (particularly when the water is a bit disturbed I simply add a popping cork above the jig (about two feet or a bit more...) then have them work the cork slowly - like it was topwater lure - making some noise now and then....
> 
> Works like a charm - day in and day out... Anyone wanting more info with color pics - send me a PM... Every size leadhead is exactly $1, each bucktail $3 (mostly...).



Wow! Thank you sir. 

That’s a masters level class on artificial bait strategies in the Everglades in one post. Took me forever to figure most of that out on my own. Pay attention gentleman, Capt knows his stuff!


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## timogleason

EsteroS said:


> You guys are awesome, thanks, can't wait to go shopping! Do any of you modify or remove the treble hooks on any of your topwaters, and if so, what do you replace them with?


I almost always replace the trebles with singles. You have a couple of options. Inline hooks or a bait hook with a welded ring. I use the Owner 3X strong inline hook (in 1/0 size for most topwaters). You could go 2/0 if you had the big Spook or similar. Mustad and VMC make a similar hook. I recently got turned onto another option using a welded ring bait hook from a client at Gamakatsu. He sent me a bunch of 1/0s. I would personally run the 2/0 size on the typical topwater for here but the 1/0's worked well. By having that extra ring in there connected to the split ring, they line up just like an inline hook and the hook gets a little longer which might help with hookup ratio. 

For lures for around here, I typically though big (5") plastics rigged on Owner weighted twist lock hooks in 5/0 size / 1/8th oz weight. Dark colors seem to work better than light colors. For hard baits, I tend to throw topwaters in lighter colors. (I did paint some black recently and the sharks killed them AND I lost all my black ones...). Need to paint some more.

You will never catch as many fish using artificial boats but I find it much more fun and challenging to fly fish and throw artificial baits. Don't let anyone tell you you can't be successful fishing that way. Just get on the water and start casting...Have fun!


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## Copahee Hound

Backcountry 16 said:


> Can't go wrong with a Mirrodine as commented on here already but replace the garbage hooks or you'll lose some fish
> View attachment 90006
> This is killer for snook also especially on a weed less jig head it's deadly in the glades pitching mangrove.
> View attachment 90008


Those jigs are great, but their new Texas Eye jigs are even better. They give the baits a lot more action

https://eyestrikefishing.com/wordpr...z-Retail-3-Pack/p/109152472/category=29517624


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## Ken T

Normally I guide fly anglers but when we have to fish with light tackle and artificials these DOA Cal Shad are what I use specifically for Snook.







Easy to rig weedless. They can be skipped way up under the mangroves and docks. They are soft so they come alive with almost no movement. I do not use weight and fish them slow with erratic twitches. Most fish crush them on the pause or when the bait is falling.

Ken


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## Ice Cream Man

Reds are not picky eaters. Throw topwaters to find them. 
Then feed them a soft plastic, start with a Gulp Shrimp on 3/16 oz. jig head.
Use any of the aforementioned tips.

We all overthink fishing at times........
Never caught Snook - none in NC........ICM


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## Backcountry 16

Ice Cream Man said:


> Reds are not picky eaters. Throw topwaters to find them.
> Then feed them a soft plastic, start with a Gulp Shrimp on 3/16 oz. jig head.
> Use any of the aforementioned tips.
> 
> We all overthink fishing at times........
> Never caught Snook - none in NC........ICM
> View attachment 90142


Our Florida redfish are more educated than their brethren from N.C. major pressure on them down here.


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## Smackdaddy53

Backcountry 16 said:


> Our Florida redfish are more educated than their brethren from N.C. major pressure on them down here.


Texas reds are pretty educated as well. I laugh my ass off when I take people sight casting and they try to lob a topwater at reds in a foot of water.


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## J-Dad

DOA 5.5 “ jerk bait. It’s larger/heavier than the standard 5” jerk baits. You can throw it a mile and cover lots of ground when needed but it lands subtle enough for sight fishing.


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## EsteroS

Got a bag full of your recommendations, ordered some inline hooks to replace trebles so I have something to do on the couch tonight...now realize I need split ring plyers so another trip to Wal-Mart. Hope to get a few casts this weekend before this little pain in the ass Dorian comes over. Don't want her coming thru here, but don't want to wish her on central/north florida either. Good luck everyone who has spaghetti tracks running thru their backyard on the weather channel


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## SomaliPirate

J-Dad said:


> DOA 5.5 “ jerk bait. It’s larger/heavier than the standard 5” jerk baits. You can throw it a mile and cover lots of ground when needed but it lands subtle enough for sight fishing.
> View attachment 90180


That bait in their glow color has always been money for me.


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## Ice Cream Man

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Texas reds are pretty educated as well. I laugh my ass off when I take people sight casting and they try to lob a topwater at reds in a foot of water.


Educated Reds still have to eat.
Topwaters look like a good easy meal regardless of water depth & without hang ups.
Been catching most if not all my Reds on a fallen tide, in shallow water very close to the bank. If your more than a foot off the bank your not in the strike zone.
Can't be more than a foot or two deep.
When we find them shallow, back off & make long cast with topwaters.......ICM


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## hipshot

FWIW: Been a while since I fished snook in Florida. When I did the go to lures were a Reflecto spoon, a yellow Upperman jig, or a 52M Mirrolure. Those will probably still produce. Good Luck!


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## jimsmicro

I'm gonna be the contrarian and say that what you throw matters a lot less than where it's thrown. I carry two or three rods rigged that allow me to cover all parts of the water column. First and foremost, a topwater rig with a Skitterwalk and if it isn't the gold color throw it in the trash. In the summer time it's almost all I use. Second is some kind of suspending or shallow running jerk bait. I fish dark water and like a rootbeer colored body with a chartreuse tail and I'll use an appropriate jighead for the depth I want, usually really light like 1/16 or 1/8 ounce because I fish so shallow you almost don't need a boat. If you prefer hard baits throw a mirrodine suspender in basically any color, the flash will draw them in. If you want something a little less snaggy and still want the flash an Aquadream gold spoon is very effective and there's nothing easier than throwing it a long ways and reeling it back in, you can cover a lot of water. Other than these baits I hardly carry anything at all in my tackle bag and it makes life a lot simpler. If they're there and hungry, they'll eat. If not, get out the fly rod because you might as well work on your cast because they aren't biting.


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## BobGee

jimsmicro said:


> I'm gonna be the contrarian and say that what you throw matters a lot less than where it's thrown. I carry two or three rods rigged that allow me to cover all parts of the water column. First and foremost, a topwater rig with a Skitterwalk and if it isn't the gold color throw it in the trash. In the summer time it's almost all I use. Second is some kind of suspending or shallow running jerk bait. I fish dark water and like a rootbeer colored body with a chartreuse tail and I'll use an appropriate jighead for the depth I want, usually really light like 1/16 or 1/8 ounce because I fish so shallow you almost don't need a boat. If you prefer hard baits throw a mirrodine suspender in basically any color, the flash will draw them in. If you want something a little less snaggy and still want the flash an Aquadream gold spoon is very effective and there's nothing easier than throwing it a long ways and reeling it back in, you can cover a lot of water. Other than these baits I hardly carry anything at all in my tackle bag and it makes life a lot simpler. If they're there and hungry, they'll eat. If not, get out the fly rod because you might as well work on your cast because they aren't biting.


Does anyone have any advice on which AquaDream colors work best for them? Best for different conditions?


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## BassFlats

I've only used the gold aquadream spoon. Caught many snook on it. Somedays nothing. I believe Capt.C.A.Richardson has a Youtube video on the spoons and when to use different colors.


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## Smackdaddy53

BassFlats said:


> I've only used the gold aquadream spoon. Caught many snook on it. Somedays nothing. I believe Capt.C.A.Richardson has a Youtube video on the spoons and when to use different colors.


He uses the green one quite a bit


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## Richard Jaimot

I fish for snook and reds on the flats all the time. The VooDoo Shrimp From Egret lures works amazing, as well as the Mirrodine from Mirrolure and any 3" Soft plastic paddle tails and a 1/16oz flutter hook or jig head. 

Tight Lines


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## lemaymiami

So much with lures depends on where you’re fishing - and when....

Just no substitute for time on the water.

Every lure mentioned in this thread will work just fine if you’re in the right place at the right time...


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## Smackdaddy53

lemaymiami said:


> So much with lures depends on where you’re fishing - and when....
> 
> Just no substitute for time on the water.
> 
> Every lure mentioned in this thread will work just fine if you’re in the right place at the right time...


Yessir!


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## Capnredfish

My favorite plastic is a tube bait rigged weedless. I like to toss it up on the bank ahead of fish cruising a shoreline then work it off the bank as they come by. Guess it imitates mudminnow(killifish) or fiddlers on the edge. Works most of the time here other than when we have high water covering shoreline.


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## Vertigo

OK, here's the dirty secret we all know but choose to ignore:
Being in the right place at the right time is 99% of the game. The lure is the remaining 1%. When conditions are right fish will hit old cigarette butts.
Regardless of these facts, my favorite redfish/snook lures are:
1. gold spoon. It's easy to cast and retrieve effectively, it's relatively cheap and it works.
2. skitterwalk. It's fun to work on topwater on a still morning and nothing beats watching a fish stalk and strike one. I hate the treble hooks, and they're more expensive than spoons.
3. Anything plastic that looks like food. Cheap, effective, but not as much fun to work.


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## jpipes

Vertigo said:


> OK, here's the dirty secret we all know but choose to ignore:
> Being in the right place at the right time is 99% of the game. The lure is the remaining 1%. When conditions are right fish will hit old cigarette butts.
> Regardless of these facts, my favorite redfish/snook lures are:
> 1. gold spoon. It's easy to cast and retrieve effectively, it's relatively cheap and it works.
> 2. skitterwalk. It's fun to work on topwater on a still morning and nothing beats watching a fish stalk and strike one. I hate the treble hooks, and they're more expensive than spoons.
> 3. Anything plastic that looks like food. Cheap, effective, but not as much fun to work.



This x100. I got into a school of snook in East Matagorda bay a couple of years ago while wading a small cove. Water clarity was such that I had a DSL in red shad on a 1/8 jig head, and I wore them out. Ran out of Red Shad, and tied on another DSL in lime green and continued to wear them out. I could have tied a jalapeno on and caught fish. Right place at the right time, 100% by accident.


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## Smackdaddy53

Vertigo said:


> OK, here's the dirty secret we all know but choose to ignore:
> Being in the right place at the right time is 99% of the game. The lure is the remaining 1%. When conditions are right fish will hit old cigarette butts.
> Regardless of these facts, my favorite redfish/snook lures are:
> 1. gold spoon. It's easy to cast and retrieve effectively, it's relatively cheap and it works.
> 2. skitterwalk. It's fun to work on topwater on a still morning and nothing beats watching a fish stalk and strike one. I hate the treble hooks, and they're more expensive than spoons.
> 3. Anything plastic that looks like food. Cheap, effective, but not as much fun to work.


Yeah BUT when you don’t get to fish 3-4 days a week like some folks you want the lures they’ll eat. I don’t give a damn what anyone says about color not mattering, it matters 99% of the time. There’s about 1% of the time when fish are full frenzy mode and will eat anything. Throw a bright colored fly or plastic at some of these redfish in my neck of the woods and they will avoid it like herpes. Toss one that matches the color of the grass and bottom with no chartreuse and they’ll hammer it.


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## Smackdaddy53

jpipes said:


> This x100. I got into a school of snook in East Matagorda bay a couple of years ago while wading a small cove. Water clarity was such that I had a DSL in red shad on a 1/8 jig head, and I wore them out. Ran out of Red Shad, and tied on another DSL in lime green and continued to wear them out. I could have tied a jalapeno on and caught fish. Right place at the right time, 100% by accident.


Never happened again did it? I wish I was there with you then!


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