# Do you back your trailer in to Salt water?



## fsae99 (Apr 8, 2010)

I have a galvanized trailer and was wondering about it's life span if I back it down to the axle to launch and recover each time.

How do you guys/girls do it?

Thanks,
Jim


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## Captain_Shane (Mar 27, 2007)

Everybody does it. Wash the trailer off well, especially the bunks(carpet), springs, axel, lights and wheels. I run water into each hole opening in the frame of the trailer as well. No big deal. Eventually you will see some rust setting up, but not a big deal.


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## boggob (Feb 20, 2007)

I always find a freshwater ramp on the way home to back down and flush.


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## Caretaker (Jun 16, 2008)

It's not the galvanized trailer that will be a problem. Leaf springs, u-bolts, wheels, axle, and related hardware will eventually rust and need replacement. Wash it off best as you can and inspect everything annually. 

I just sold a 1976 galvanized drive on trailer this year and it's still on the road.

My 2000 aluminum trailer needs the same attention to the same parts.

You'll get decades of life from a trailer if it's maintained as needed.


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## HaMm3r (Dec 11, 2006)

After rinsing with freshwater, I've been hitting the rims, springs and axle with a light misting of WD40 each time. Definitely seems to help keep the surface rust at bay.


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

Unnecessary to launch your trailer if set up properly.
If your keel rollers are set at the proper height and lubricated,
bunks are carpeted and rubbed thoroughly with paraffin,
all that needs to get wet is the rubber of the tires.
I've been launching and retrieving hulls with galvanized trailers for years
and not even my offshore boats needed to be floated on.
I do like a solid walkboard to avoid slip and falls on a slimy ramp.

If you don't like hand cranking the winch, get an electric to pull the boat up...


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## cutrunner (Jun 8, 2010)

Lol brett i love your way to launch and retrieve your skiff but if i ever tried that (i can imagine it takes alot more time when alone than to just run the truck in reverse than slam the brakes) the lunaticks/idiots/incompitent/pricks at my local boat ramp would probably pull a gun on me for taking so long! Often times when bored i will drive to the ramp and just park on the side and watch people to get a good laugh.. Ohh the things i see there


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

Ahhh....the brake and bump technique...always good for a laugh.
Especially when the ramp has a good coating of 2 smoke oil on it, or it's low tide on a rainy day.
The results can be highly entertaining. No thanks, I'll stick with my simple and safe method.

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5IEk3OHTy00[/media]

I've seen this happen too many times over the years
when people try to save a few seconds
and end up with the drive wheels on the slick part of the ramp.

;D


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## cutrunner (Jun 8, 2010)

Hah ive seen that before. If you watch the video closely from about six feet out from the waterline theres a serious dropoff. Ive seen it in person a couple times. Mainly caused by women.. My stop and brake works perfect for my truck/trailer setup at "my" nonsteep ramp with my properly setup and waxed trailer. I wouldnt try it at a steep ramp with my boat or a bigger one


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## SClay115 (May 18, 2009)

> Unnecessary to launch your trailer if set up properly.
> If your keel rollers are set at the proper height and lubricated,
> bunks are carpeted and rubbed thoroughly with paraffin,
> all that needs to get wet is the rubber of the tires.
> ...


I launch my skiff the same way. It's retrieving it that seems to be a bit of a pain.

I seem to have a serious interference issue with the bunks and bow of the hull, on either side of the keel, if I try to "pull" it up onto the trailer with just the tires in the water. 

I'll have to do some digging on the way the bunks/rollers are supposed to be setup, I would love to not have to dunk the trailer when retrieving.

Steve


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## Mike_Poczik (Jan 24, 2010)

Here is what I just did to my trailer when I needed new bunks. Now I pretty much load and unload like Brett. And never any carpet to replace or need to wax.














































And the trailer lights remove and store in bed of truck while launching so they never see water either.


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

Slick trick Mike!
The extra length off the back of the trailer gives you an easier launch and retrieval
as it extends your working trailer length at the ramp so you don't need to get rims deeper.
I wonder how the pvc would affect the finish on a painted or gelcoated hull?
Do you think the pvc will get brittle over time, or crack if it gets freezing cold?


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## Mike_Poczik (Jan 24, 2010)

Brett I am not sure, kinda going at it as a guinea pig. I used Sch 40 solid core so I doubt it. But my boat sleeps in a garage so not really subject to really nasty weather. I have seen PVC used on exterior applications in construction so I doubt it. Not sure what if any affect it may have on a glass boat. I was seeking a way to keep the copper in todays pressure treated lumber from contacting my aluminum hull and was worried about it seeping through the carpet on bunks. Looked at the teflon sticks but bought lumber, pvc, stainless screws, reflectors and zinc lag bolts for less than the cost of the teflon slicks and now have 7' of support under my hull and very slick bunks. I actually do not even need a winch as I can pull it on one handed with the bow line. That pvc is slick so I don't know what it might or might not do to a glass hull. It does not mark the paint on my G3 and it is pretty thin coat. The extended bunks also add a tiny bit of protection from the people creeping at redlights from bumping my motor.


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

Yes, you can sink a galvanized trailer 2-3 times a week and use it for 20-30 years, but everything that can corrode/rot will do so despite washes after every immersion. You will continuously burn out lights, corrode electrical wires, rust through cheap axles, rot out the bunks and rust out bunk bolts and U-bolts. They are all fairly cheap to fix (except the axles, but we needed to upgrade anyway), but it does get annoying to have to continuously fix piddly crap in order to go fishing.

The guys that don't get their hubs wet launching don't have as much wear and tear on their trailers. If your bunks are sticky and you have to crank it uphill, it can be a pain, so set up is important. It really doesn't take any more time to launch one way vs the other once you get it set up correctly. Either way, you can get the boat into or out of the water in 2-5 minutes depending on help. 

Nate


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## [email protected] (Nov 18, 2010)

I understand and do retrieve my hull like Brett has pictured, but how do you launch like that? 
Were i beach launch at low tide is reel shallow, and when I 've tried to launch the boat once the weight shifts to the back the bow shoots up and the transom/transducer/tabs slam into the sand..
Are you keeping the boat hooked up to keep the bow down?
Thanks guys!
Sean


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

> Where I beach launch at low tide is real shallow, and when I 've tried to launch the boat, once the weight shifts to the back, the bow shoots up and the transom/transducer/tabs slam into the sand..
> Are you keeping the boat hooked up to keep the bow down?


Beach/shoreline launching is a whole other art form...especially at low tide!
Four wheel drive to get across the sand, partially deflate the tires so they didn't dig in
then disconnect the trailer/boat from the vehicle and walk it out until deep enough to launch.
Lift the tongue up until the boat slid back and walk the trailer out from under the boat.
Serious entertainment when hung over on a Sunday morning!

                                            ;D


Or...just go for it and launch everything...


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## [email protected] (Nov 18, 2010)

LOL .. I hear you.. What I have been thinking about is either getting a trailer doly to walk the boat out, or would love to find a bigger/wider wheel for my jack stand..
Thanks again! Sorry for the Hijack!


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

Weld a spindle onto your tongue jack, make it 2, butt to butt.
Mount hubs and 12" rim tires on the spindles, kinda like the nose-wheels on a 747...

Have imagination, will travel...


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

I have never beach launched, but there are some really good YouTube videos that show guys beach launching Pacific Dories.  They actually use the tilt trailers.  Our old boat had that type of trailer, but we never once pulled the pin.  I had no idea what it was for until I watched those videos.  No matter how you do it, in that shallow of water you are going to stand it on the bottom edge of the transom.  All that expensive stuff like transducers and tabs will get beat up.  

Nate


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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

For the oridginal question about backing your trailer into the salt water. I just find a local boat ramp (fresh water), back down the boat and trailer more than you put it into salt water, let the trailer sit for 10 seconds in the fresh water and then pull it out. Do this several times. This is the best way to rence off the trailer. You can't get every hole flushed out in your trailer because your not going to crawl underneath the boat and do that. PS. While your motor is in the fresh water, start it and run it for 2 to 5 minuets. Make sure the thermistat opens up. You want to flush all the salt out of the motor. 
When you get home, spray down your trailer and motor with WD-40 or something like that, Your still going to get rust no matter what you do. So understand, if you want to get rid of the rust, get a aluminum trailer with torsion axles. You'll still find rust but not as much but, continue to do this trick and you will not have much if any issues.

Another thing you need to watch for. ALL ramps are different. Some are shallow launches, some are deep launches. Some you have to back your vehicle into the water to get to the deep part of the ramp. Expect holes at the end of the ramps, this is common.

Not every body can pick up there boat and put it on a trailer.
Even 14 ft boats are heavy, I'll drive them on the trailer before I have to pick one up. Much easier to load. I've launched canoes to 20 ft boats. Trailers are not the same. Even when they are set up right, you still have to back the trailer into the water. 

Ex: You can't launch an 18 ft Rabalo center console or most boats like the photo shows. If you try, people will lauph at you or they will get be pissed off because you taking a long time to load or unload your boat. Understand, yes, take your time but if it takes you 5 to 10 minuets to load your 15 ft boat on a trailer, there is a problem. 

My nabor bought a boat. He never owned one before. He pulled it out of the driveway, hit the curb and blew out the tire. He changed the tire, got on his way, turned out of his subdivision and took out 3 mail boxes. When he got to the ramp he could not figure out how to back it down the ramp without jacknifing it every 20 ft. By this time he was ready to give up. He came home dragging more mail boxes. 

Point here is know your trailer and vehicle or you to will have an endless supply of mail boxes hanging off your boat.


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## JaxLaxFish (Aug 23, 2010)

> Yes, you can sink a galvanized trailer 2-3 times a week and use it for 20-30 years, but everything that can corrode/rot will do so despite washes after every immersion.  You will continuously burn out lights, corrode electrical wires, rust through cheap axles, rot out the bunks and rust out bunk bolts and U-bolts.


This is why we have our lights on the top of our guides only and we run a solid wire from the tongue of the trailer all the way up to the lights. The only thing is there will be some rust on the necessary ground wire so you'll need to leave some slack wire here because every couple of years or so you'll need to re-strip the ends of the wire. In between stripping the ends you can get away with a wire brush and some electrical grade lubricant to protect from rust. (not really sure if electrical grade is necessary)


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## JaxLaxFish (Aug 23, 2010)

Oh and as for U-bolts use em until they rust then replace with stainless


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## chew (Feb 26, 2010)

yeah.... cleaning is key to long life...........
another product that is just amazing is called "CORROSION X" stuff has so many uses.


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## mark_gardner (Mar 18, 2009)

> Slick trick Mike!
> The extra length off the back of the trailer gives you an easier launch and retrieval
> as it extends your working trailer length at the ramp so you don't need to get rims deeper.
> I wonder how the pvc would affect the finish on a painted or gelcoated hull?
> Do you think the pvc will get brittle over time, or crack if it gets freezing cold?


i suspect that setup to last a long time and no fears of cracking from the cold. the biggest threat to his painted hull or gel coat will be the oyster bars and such.


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## mark_gardner (Mar 18, 2009)

like i mentioned in my inshore report, my bunks and hubs never get wet....neither do my feet   







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## Mike_Poczik (Jan 24, 2010)

> > Slick trick Mike!
> > The extra length off the back of the trailer gives you an easier launch and retrieval
> > as it extends your working trailer length at the ramp so you don't need to get rims deeper.
> > I wonder how the pvc would affect the finish on a painted or gelcoated hull?
> ...


Thats exactly why I went with aluminum. My old glass hull probably doubled in weight from all the patching I had on the bottom from oyster beds and flounder gigging. So I went back to tin, and not regretting a moment. And I think the carpet is actually more abrasive than the PVC.


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## [email protected] (Jul 4, 2012)

Dry launching is the best. My trailer doesn't even get the rims wet when I launch or load


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## SupergrandslamIII (Jan 21, 2016)

I really try not to Have had trailers last for 10+years


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## HeaveToo (11 mo ago)

JaxLaxFish said:


> This is why we have our lights on the top of our guides only and we run a solid wire from the tongue of the trailer all the way up to the lights. The only thing is there will be some rust on the necessary ground wire so you'll need to leave some slack wire here because every couple of years or so you'll need to re-strip the ends of the wire. In between stripping the ends you can get away with a wire brush and some electrical grade lubricant to protect from rust. (not really sure if electrical grade is necessary)


Solid wire? You should be running marine grade pretinned wire and using the connectors they you crimp and then use heat to shrink. Even better if the shrink had adhesive in it.


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## LowHydrogen (Dec 31, 2015)

Holy hell, that's an epic thread revival!!! 10+ years!


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## MikeCockman (8 mo ago)

cutrunner said:


> Lol brett i love your way to launch and retrieve your skiff but if i ever tried that (i can imagine it takes alot more time when alone than to just run the truck in reverse than slam the brakes) the lunaticks/idiots/incompitent/pricks at my local boat ramp would probably pull a gun on me for taking so long! Often times when bored i will drive to the ramp and just park on the side and watch people to get a good laugh.. Ohh the things i see there


As a kid when I lived and commercial fished in Yankeetown FL. This was our weekend entertainment. We’d literally go hang out at the end of road and watch all the clowns launch and retrieve boats. My god some of the stuff we’d see.


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## LowHydrogen (Dec 31, 2015)

MikeCockman said:


> As a kid when I lived and commercial fished in Yankeetown FL. This was our weekend entertainment. We’d literally go hang out at the end of road and watch all the clowns launch and retrieve boats. My god some of the stuff we’d see.


What years were you in Yankeetown?


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## jonterr (Mar 24, 2013)

MikeCockman said:


> As a kid when I lived and commercial fished in Yankeetown FL. This was our weekend entertainment. We’d literally go hang out at the end of road and watch all the clowns launch and retrieve boats. My god some of the stuff we’d see.


You guys that live there, does anybody driving down that road ever accidentally ever run off in the water?


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