# DIY welded loop



## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

There are a few threads on here about that. I've tried a whipped end before and it can get bulky if you aren't careful. Is this for a floating line?

I just tried a braided loop for the first time and I really like it so far. I didn't use the sleeve provided; I just did a nail knot with some 14# mono, then I let a tiny amount of liquid (not gel) superglue soak in, then I coated it with UV Knot Sense several hours later. Nice, smooth transition, and I feel like it will be plenty strong since it still retains the "finger-trap" connection.

Side note, and probably not necessary for a 4wt: I also did a very light dab of liquid superglue where the other end of the braided mono ends, being careful not to get any on the tip of the fly line. The only failure I've heard of these braided loops has been the loop itself pulling out due to a quick transition between slack and load, so I think the drop of glue will help with that while still letting the outer braid "finger-trap" the inner braid to provide the real strength of the looped end.


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## GG34 (May 2, 2014)

Thanks. I read through the braided knot thread. Seems like a lot of work for a 4wt. I did see one example of a guy stripping the end of the line down to the core before turning the loop. That was to eliminate the bulk. It is for a floating line. I was just going to nail knot it to the backing. Really just looking for an easy connection to the leader.


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

Doesn't get much easier than a nail knot to the fly line, especially since it's not like you're worried about the coating giving way under pressure on a 4wt. Braided loops are good without all the crap I did to them, but still not as easy as a nail knot. I'd just do the nail knot with an appropriate sized short butt section, then put a perfection loop in it so I could change leaders easily.


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## GG34 (May 2, 2014)

Yeah. You are probably right.


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Yep nail not .Get one of those small metal nail knot devices...simple


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## Ken T (Dec 10, 2015)

On light weight lines a straight epoxy splice is nice. No resistance from bulk of loops or knots.

Ken


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## GG34 (May 2, 2014)

If I nail knot a small price of mono with a perfection loop what pound test should I use?


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## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

I set up all my fly lines with a nail knot at the backing end (and did one yesterday on a 9 at line). I always use 30lb mono with seven turns and never rely on just one knot -I do two of them 1/2” apart - then very carefully trim the ends of each knot as well as the stub end of the fly line. Since I’m kind of old school, each knot is coated with Pliobond and allowed to dry before being looped onto the backing then wound onto the reel. This setup will never fail you - no matter how badly it’s abused...


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## David Fulton (Dec 19, 2017)

GG34 said:


> Thanks. I read through the braided knot thread. Seems like a lot of work for a 4wt. I did see one example of a guy stripping the end of the line down to the core before turning the loop. That was to eliminate the bulk. It is for a floating line. I was just going to nail knot it to the backing. Really just looking for an easy connection to the leader.


Adding a small section of mono, using Nail knot, works. 

If you really want to try DIY welded loop, I'd recommend trying a straightening iron. Your wife/daughter/girl friend probably has one. If not, they're pretty cheap to buy at Walmart. You can get away without the shrink tubing, but you have to be extra careful about applying the heat for very short periods of time. This YouTube tutorial covers it pretty well. 

Good luck,

Dave


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## kbanashek (Apr 5, 2017)

GG34 said:


> If I nail knot a small price of mono with a perfection loop what pound test should I use?


10lb test is fine with 8-9 wraps should work, I personally would not use any type of glue given the application, on heavier setups absolutely. On a 4wt you're probably not going to be battling anything that is even going to test the integrity of the nail knot if tied properly.


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## GG34 (May 2, 2014)

Thanks for all the input guys.


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

GG34 said:


> Picked up a cheaper 4wt line without a welded loop. Has anyone made their own? I've seen many examples online of people using thread, super glue, and a little uv resin. Just curious how reliable it would be? It's only on a 4 wt so it wouldn't under too much pressure


Nail knot a store bought tapered mono leader. Done! With Capt LeMay's recommentation on the backing connection, dbl nail knots will give you that extra insurance.

Capt Ken's recommendation.... epoxy knot? I'll have to try that and it sounds interesting.

With light duty fly fishing with that rod, you may only change that leader out maybe twice a year.

Replace the business end of the leader when it get's clipped back with either mono or FC tippet material, as needed.


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

kbanashek said:


> 10lb test is fine with 8-9 wraps should work, I personally would not use any type of glue given the application, on heavier setups absolutely. On a 4wt you're probably not going to be battling anything that is even going to test the integrity of the nail knot if tied properly.


10lb test? Ahh...No!


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## kbanashek (Apr 5, 2017)

Backwater said:


> 10lb test? Ahh...No!


And why do you say that?


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## Capt'n Preston (May 26, 2017)

I got a recent email from Rio on a DIY method of creating/fixing welded loops - will look for it


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

kbanashek said:


> And why do you say that?


Are you implying using straight 10lb test for the entire leader or just 10lb test mono to nail knot it to the flyline and then form a loop somewhere on it? And if so, how long?

I say that because 10lb test is not enough diameter or thickness to turn over the entire leader and therefore cause it to hinge where the flyline meets the butt section of the leader. The end result will be that the leader will just fold over due to the energy from the fly line being lost at that paticular point and therefore not laying out the fly. Or the fly will just boomerang out their with the line speed viscosity and not smoothly extend out past the end of the leader extending out, theyby not being accurate, smacking the water or just swinging around at the end of your leader (possibly causing wind knots).

Matching the fly line with a proper tapered leader (either knotless or tied in a step down fashion) will help transfer the energy from the flyline, out to the leader by unfurling the leader completely out at the end of your shoot and cause the fly to properly lay out without snapping, crashing on the water or not unrolling out to where it will be lagging behind either the leader or the fly line itself.

Just food for thought.


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## kbanashek (Apr 5, 2017)

Sorry if I was not clear - just using 10lb test mono to nail knot, I would never recommend a straight leader unless that's all you had to work with.


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## David Fulton (Dec 19, 2017)

I've always used variations of the George Harvey "Slack Line" formula, which starts with 05x (0.0170"/ 25 lb) nail knotted to the fly line (for a 4wt fly line).

I use the Harvey formula to build a 10ft 4x leader, which I use to throw cricket/hopper patters with my 7.5ft 4wt. This system works well for me

I don't think 10lb mono would transfer the energy from a 4wt fly line to the degree necessary to efficiently turn over a leader and fly.

One resource that I've used for years is Global Fly Fishers LeaderCalc. Here's LeaderCalc 2016 (http://globalflyfisher.com/fish-better/leadercalc-2016).

Just my opinion.

Regards,

Dave


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## Capt'n Preston (May 26, 2017)

Capt'n Preston said:


> I got a recent email from Rio on a DIY method of creating/fixing welded loops - will look for it


I found the video - not sure this method will work for all fly lines, but seems pretty slick: https://www.rioproducts.com/learn/w...ail&utm_term=0_1049359efc-7d54689366-85467137


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