# Another 15' 4" Gheenoe rescued



## manatiburon

Finally got some time to write my first post! I wanted to thank all of those rebuilders that one way or another have posted info and pictures in this forum, now I have a good idea of what do I want of this 'noe and how I want to achieve this. Let me introduce my first, and pretty beat up, 'noe:








Glass work done is pretty crappy,I was able to pull it out with a spatula :-/








Edges are banged up, and the bottom is a little weak









I know this looks like a ton of work, but could not resist the 100$ price tag with trailer   .

Now, the goal is:
-to spend less than 400$ in materials/supplies
-to create a clean, simple layout with plenty of deck space for fishing, camping etc.

To achieve these goals, the plan is:
-reinforce deck from the inside
-take out middle bench, and make fore and aft decks for storage
Some of you guys have done some really nice rebuilds, so a number of ideas might be familiar to some of you  
I have placed about 8 hours of labor so far and removed the middle seat, opened up fore and aft benches and starting the grinding dance

























I will finish up the gelcoat grinding, then reinforce the deck with 24oz woven roving sandwiched in between .75 oz mat. Still debating whether or not to add a false deck, any thoughts?


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## DuckNut

Your gonna need more than 3/4oz mat to cover that course 24 roving. 24 is too heavy. 1708 covered with the mat would be fine.


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## manatiburon

Thanks for the advice DuckNut, I just realized that the mat stitched to the 24 oz is 1 1/2 oz., so I guess I will have to double up the top mat to get appropriate cover. I agree in been to heavy for the job, but I think the deck condition warrants a beefier structural reinforcement ( at least in between the seats, the center is really weak.

Do you recommend anything as far as decking goes? I was thinking on 1/2 inch treated plywood, sealed with .75 oz mat all around, then glass it to the existing bench and the sides of the 'noe...


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## manatiburon

Just for the sake of posting up the progress...
















Today I unveiled a few more cracks, those will be filled right before adding the stitchmat.


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## DuckNut

The mat on the bottom is designed to basically melt when the resin is applied. Further, gravity will pull the resin down to fill the weave leaving the top a washboard. Using 1 1/2 mat on top and then rolling it out you will fill more of the weave the is beneath it and leaving the washboard.

24 is just too heavy. Using several layers of mat will give you a better end result than using the 24. You are talking roughly 18lbs of materials just to do the floor before you add the floor you want to put in. 

The center is really weak for three reasons. 1) it is a Gheenoe 2) it was designed and built thin 3) the floor will be exponentially firmer when you put it in the water as the water will be the support. (This is how they make racing canoes that are 19' long and weigh 23lbs. Step on it on land and you go through, put it on the water and stand right in)


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## manatiburon

I was thinking the same (about adding mat instead of roven woving), but the guys at fgci pointed out that mat do not add as much structural rigidity than roving. As far as the the use of 24 oz roving, I will only use it for the center of the boat, as I removed the center bench and as I said it is weak. Note that I wrote weak and not soft; I understand that 'noes are thin and soft bottomed, but this one has stress cracks and a couple of trhough cracks along the bottom, making it weak.


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## DuckNut

If this were mine I would: fix those bad spots and then prep and cover the entire length including up the sides a couple inches with 1708 0/90 and wet it out and leave the weave as my anti skid. Then build the decks and paint it.

There is no doubt that the guys at FGCI know what they are talking about, but the reality is that your entire boat is built from chopped glass - no roving or cloth.


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## Frank_Sebastian

What kind of resin are you using? Mat and woven roving aren't used often with epoxy.

Frank_S


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## manatiburon

Polyester laminating resin


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## manatiburon

> If this were mine I would: fix those bad spots and then prep and cover the entire length including up the sides a couple inches with 1708 0/90 and wet it out and leave the weave as my anti skid.  Then build the decks and paint it.
> 
> There is no doubt that the guys at FGCI know what they are talking about, but the reality is that your entire boat is built from chopped glass - no roving or cloth.


Mine might be an exception, because as I ground the deck (even right below the factory benches) I found woven roving and even some biaxial strips. If you are curious, I could post some pictures later.

I will be posting the progress soon, I will be following your suggestions in regards to the layup.


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## DuckNut

Relooking at the pics I can see some cloth, possibly biax cloth but I don't see any roving. Not saying it is not there but you get my point. Who knows what they used from year to year but I have seen many that were nothing but gun shot chopped strand.

Nevertheless, you are on the right track.


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## manatiburon

I certainly get your point. Today I went to the lumber store to get the douglas fir, got about 4 1x2x8's to make a frame support for both decks.

As far as the plywood goes, I had to get the best bang for the buck. budget is a little tight, so I got a 15/32 4x8 BC, APA grade exterior plywood. panel looks pretty smooth and straight, and there is just a couple of tiny knots, so I will make sure I seal it properly before I set it in.


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## manatiburon

Just in case someone is watching this..

Got some time to cut and install the side support for the deck
















Also used a few screws from outside, those will be removed once the douglas fir is glassed to the sides. I also made the cardboard template for the front deck, Tomorrow will be cutting a few tabs to reinforce the sides under the future false deck, along with finish grinding the back deck and repairing the cracks


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## DuckNut

Now your cookin' with gas!


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## NSByak

Looking good! Exactly what I did in the front (though with divinycell) for my front deck support. Worked awesome and its very strong. Just make sure you leave enough room for the rub rails to go back on. Looks like you might be cutting it close after you put the deck on top of what you have.

I have to ask, what was the PVC contraption on the Gheenoe in the first few pictures???  :-?


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## paint it black

I wouldn't touch the roving at all. Throw that stuff out and use 1708. I've done a few of these builds, and roving is not good for it. It will require much more resin, and more than likely just peel right off with a spatula as well. Use a couple layers of 1708 and one layer of mat if you want the extra rigidity. Definitely add a false floor, It's really simple to do. If you dig up my Classic rebuild thread, you should find the photos of the process. I believe I had one on here, and one on CustomGheenoe. I did mine at the Shipyard I was working at, so it was a fun project. 


I'm going to start looking for a 13' Highsider now to rebuild.


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## manatiburon

> Looking good! Exactly what I did in the front (though with divinycell) for my front deck support. Worked awesome and its very strong. Just make sure you leave enough room for the rub rails to go back on. Looks like you might be cutting it close after you put the deck on top of what you have.
> 
> I have to ask, what was the PVC contraption on the Gheenoe in the first few pictures???  :-?


Beats me, I forgot to ask the PO. Looks like a support rig for a canopy or a low deck skirt, who knows.
Divinicell, nice stuff! I saw it at fgci, but it was above my proyected budget...


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## NSByak

> Looking good! Exactly what I did in the front (though with divinycell) for my front deck support. Worked awesome and its very strong. Just make sure you leave enough room for the rub rails to go back on. Looks like you might be cutting it close after you put the deck on top of what you have.
> 
> I have to ask, what was the PVC contraption on the Gheenoe in the first few pictures???  :-?
> 
> 
> 
> Beats me, I forgot to ask the PO. Looks like a support rig for a canopy or a low deck skirt, who knows.
> Divinicell, nice stuff! I saw it at fgci, but it was above my proyected budget...
Click to expand...

Don't worry it was above mine too! I had a friend gather some from work (he works for edgewater power boats) but he wasn't able to get enough for the whole project so I had to go with plascore for the rest..

Anyway, the build is looking good so far. Keep us updated, I love to see what others are doing to Gheenoes.


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## manatiburon

> I wouldn't touch the roving at all. Throw that stuff out and use 1708. I've done a few of these builds, and roving is not good for it. It will require much more resin, and more than likely just peel right off with a spatula as well. Use a couple layers of 1708 and one layer of mat if you want the extra rigidity. Definitely add a false floor, It's really simple to do. If you dig up my Classic rebuild thread, you should find the photos of the process. I believe I had one on here, and one on CustomGheenoe. I did mine at the Shipyard I was working at, so it was a fun project.
> 
> 
> I'm going to start looking for a 13' Highsider now to rebuild.


Thanks for the info. A 14" false floor will be installed for sure. Can you elaborate in how a thicker, heavier sticht mat will delaminate, even if the surface is properly prepared?


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## manatiburon

> Looking good! Exactly what I did in the front (though with divinycell) for my front deck support. Worked awesome and its very strong. Just make sure you leave enough room for the rub rails to go back on. Looks like you might be cutting it close after you put the deck on top of what you have.
> 
> I have to ask, what was the PVC contraption on the Gheenoe in the first few pictures???  :-?
> 
> 
> 
> Beats me, I forgot to ask the PO. Looks like a support rig for a canopy or a low deck skirt, who knows.
> Divinicell, nice stuff! I saw it at fgci, but it was above my proyected budget...
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Don't worry it was above mine too! I had a friend gather some from work (he works for edgewater power boats) but he wasn't able to get enough for the whole project so I had to go with plascore for the rest..
> 
> Anyway, the build is looking good so far. Keep us updated, I love to see what others are doing to Gheenoes.
Click to expand...

Divinicell is really a great core, even greater if you get it for free!

Thanks for the kind words, I am trying to do a decent job in what looks to me its a great skiff with a lot of potential. I will keep all you posted!


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## manatiburon

Today I got some time to work on making templates and cutting all three decks. I have been working in 2 hour windows (that's the only time I got!) but things are finally shaping up.

The front deck needs some leveling, had to leave it til next 2-hours


















The back deck is looking good, both supports are leveled
















This is how 16 hours of total labor look like!


Next in the list
Properly level front deck
Make a few bulkheads for decks
Cut holes for access hatches (have a nice piece of 1/2" frosted lexan for the hatches)
Finish grinding


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## Gramps

Looking good Tarpon! Keep at it, she'll be water ready in no time!


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## manatiburon

That's what I keep saying to myself! Hopefully we are talking of a ~ 25-30 hr job that should take no more than 3-4 weeks. Can't wait to put some lines in the water!


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## BayStYat

I was gonna do side supports like you, but I was nervouse about the wood flexing so I did 2 center supports.


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## manatiburon

Nice Job! I am still an amateur when it comes to make templates (I guess I'm too impatient), and those ribs look just perfect!

I think that with the side support, and a couple of side to side bulkheads, I should be fine. Main reason to think this is because the widest part of the deck is already supported by the existing seat. Also, as soon as I glass the side supports to the boat, I will bolt in the glass-sealed deck to the sides with some SS screws. If I ever fell through the deck, I promise to take some pictures


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## BayStYat

Sounds good. I am an amature myself. Been fun and a great learning experience. 

Keep the pics coming


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## DuckNut

One support in the middle of the deck and you'll be fine as you have the stiffness of the ply going in the right direction.

Keep at it.


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## manatiburon

> I was gonna do side supports like you, but I was nervouse about the wood flexing so I did 2 center supports.


Have you finished this project? Do you have a rebuild thread I can look at? I always wanna check what other 'noe builders have done...


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## BayStYat

I am still in the process. I am ready for inerior paint. 

http://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1375916969


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## manatiburon

Saw it, that is a great deal and a outstanding deck upgrade! Make mine look like swiss cheese, that is a solid 'noe!


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## BayStYat

Thanks Tarp,

I'm really learning here. I'm watching your build close


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## manatiburon

Allright, the afternoon thunderstorms have been bugging me these past few days, but here's a little update on what I have been able to do:
FINALLY, I was able to finish grinding up the inside of the boat









I was looking around for decent size hatches for both decks, but the cheapest plastic hatches I could find were running for about 50$ a pup. Having that said, I decided to cut out both decks and make the lids out of a 1/2 lexan sheet I got from a friend.

here's how the rear deck will look like from below, I will tap the support from the top side of the deck with 3/4" SS screws, then seal everything with a .75 oz. mat








Top view








Front deck








Here's a picture of the Lexan Sheet. As far as finishing goes, I am planning on stencil a black Gheenoe logo on the bottom side of the lid, then paint it white.









Let's see if the weather gets better Tomorrow, so I can get started on the glassing!


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## DuckNut

> I will tap the support from the top side of the deck with 3/4" SS screws, then seal everything with a .75 oz. mat


Use some waterproof glue to glue the "frame" together and in place before you screw together - it will be much stronger.


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## manatiburon

I used some gorilla glue right before tapping the frame, looks pretty sturdy

































Today I got to finalize the hull reinforcement; weighting all the materials I used today, the hull gained about 25 pounds, but the difference in structural integrity is HUGE
Some pics of the progress








First one down, three to go
















Second down, those white spots are remaining gelcoat, not air








Front portion








and presto!









To my surprise, I tried the 0.75 oz. mat over the stitch mat,and the roving disappears. I will be grinding the hull to glass the final mat layer, and install a series of tabs along the inside of the gunnel.


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

Really like the idea of the lexan with the Gheenoe logo on it. Sounds like it will look great. What kind of hinge are you going to use on the lexan or will they just be like day hatches that come in/out completely?


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## DuckNut

> To my surprise, I tried the 0.75 oz. mat over the stitch mat,and the roving disappears.


There is a very good reason for this. CSM that is .75oz is suppose to have 1.5 oz of resin used with it. I am going to guess that you used alot more than this and ended up filling the valleys with resin.


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## manatiburon

> Really like the idea of the lexan with the Gheenoe logo on it. Sounds like it will look great. What kind of hinge are you going to use on the lexan or will they just be like day hatches that come in/out completely?


 For now, it will go without hinges. I think if I decide to use some, they will be some of those SS over the deck hinges, as they could be found at good prices in Ebay.


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## manatiburon

> To my surprise, I tried the 0.75 oz. mat over the stitch mat,and the roving disappears.
> 
> 
> 
> There is a very good reason for this.  CSM that is .75oz is suppose to have 1.5 oz of resin used with it.  I am going to guess that you used alot more than this and ended up filling the valleys with resin.
Click to expand...

Could be very well be that, good point. I did make sure to not overload the glass with resin, I ended using a little over a gallon for all the stitchmat. I did laminate both stitchmat and light mat at the same time, so I guess that having both of them wet could have made it retain more resin.


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## DuckNut

Just want to help you with the learning process:

Let's say the boat is 15' long and 3' wide - that equals 3 sq yards * 9 = 27 sq. feet.

1.5 oz resin per sq foot * 27= 40.5 oz of resin

There are roughly 150 oz in a gallon of resin.

The above oz of resin refers to weight not liquid volume.


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## flyfshrmn82

What is it about these little green boats...?   

Nice work man. You'll forever be happy when it's all finished and you land that first fish on it. Stay diligent. Don't get lazy as the project nears the end. 

This is what I did to mine.  If you look hard enough, maybe you can get some useful ideas out of this... There are 3-4 different links to threads covering the build process. You have to look for them.  

http://www.customgheenoe.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=4417&hilit=Jesnew  

Tight lines


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## manatiburon

> Just want to help you with the learning process:
> 
> Let's say the boat is 15' long and 3' wide - that equals 3 sq yards * 9 = 27 sq. feet.
> 
> 1.5 oz resin per sq foot * 27= 40.5 oz of resin
> 
> There are roughly 150 oz in a gallon of resin.
> 
> The above oz of resin refers to weight not liquid volume.


Thanks for the calculations. How much resin do you think a 2415 stitchmat should have absorbed per sq ft?


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## manatiburon

> What is it about these little green boats...?
> 
> Nice work man. You'll forever be happy when it's all finished and you land that first fish on it. Stay diligent.  Don't get lazy as the project nears the end.
> 
> This is what I did to mine.  If you look hard enough, maybe you can get some useful ideas out of this... There are 3-4 different links to threads covering the build process.  You have to look for them.
> 
> http://www.customgheenoe.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=4417&hilit=Jesnew
> 
> Tight lines


Sir, that project make mine looks like hack job! I looked through all chapters (nice job by the way!), and that is by far the most wild customization of a gheenoe I have seen. Do you have any numbers as far as how much does she weights now, draft and estimated hours/cost? Excuse my language but that's some badass deck!


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## manatiburon

A little fitting test to make sure decks fit appropriately

































Today I started bending some PVC for rod storage









Making progress, a bit at a time. Hopefully will finish fittng the PVC, glass the underside of both decks and get them installed over the weekend, weather permitting.


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## DuckNut

> How much resin do you think a 2415 stitchmat should have absorbed per sq ft?


I am not going to tell you. You do no need anything that heavy. That would probably be heavier than any part of the original boat. 

If you plan on using it you better go get more beer.


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## manatiburon




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## DuckNut




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## manatiburon

Finished up rod tube fitting








Helpful tip, regular light bulbs could be use to flange the PVC pipe really easy, 

















Today I finished glassing the underside of both rear and front decks

























Running out of resin on a Sunday sucks...


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## flyfshrmn82

> What is it about these little green boats...?
> 
> Nice work man. You'll forever be happy when it's all finished and you land that first fish on it. Stay diligent.  Don't get lazy as the project nears the end.
> 
> This is what I did to mine.  If you look hard enough, maybe you can get some useful ideas out of this... There are 3-4 different links to threads covering the build process.  You have to look for them.
> 
> http://www.customgheenoe.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=4417&hilit=Jesnew
> 
> Tight lines
> 
> 
> 
> Sir, that project make mine looks like hack job! I looked through all chapters (nice job by the way!), and that is by far the most wild customization of a gheenoe I have seen. Do you have any numbers as far as how much does she weights now, draft and estimated hours/cost? Excuse my language but that's some badass deck!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the compliment.  It was not meant to compare, instead to provide tips/tricks that might create new ideas. I can only guess that she picked up about 150lbs.  Draft is around 6-7."  She runs much smoother in a chop and is a much drier ride.  I can only guess on the hours being 1000+ as it took about 2 years to fully finish.  I had a good time doing it, and it lead to meeting some great people so cost isn't what's important.  Keep up the good work and keep us all in the loop.  

Tight lines,


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## manatiburon

Thanks, that comparative joke is proof of my akward sense of humor  I can clearly see how the ride will improve with that deck lip, and the extra weight do very well compliment how she can handle, as is very thoughtfully distributed. Anyway, hopefully I cross flats with you someday, will love to see your craft personally.


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## manatiburon

Finally, some more progress!

Rod tubes were glass to the sides, which also reinforced the sides









Glassed the front deck, right after gluing it to the supports and the bench with a filler made out of milled glass fibers and poly resin, plus a couple of SS screws...

























Bottom of center false floor was sealed, and fitted for future glassing. 

























Also finish glassing all the compartment edges, which were a PITA to work

















Next:
install center false deck
install aft deck
make side tabs/rod holders and glass them to hull


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## manatiburon

Little progress, but here you go anyways...

Rod holders made and fitted. Thought about making two for each side, but they will force the rods to contour to the curve of the hull, unless I made a rod holder that sticks out of the curve of the hull, which I am not a fan of. Ended up making just one, far enough that both a 9' fly rod and a 7' spinning rod will fit without problem. here are some pictures
























Those will be glassed soon, as well as the middle and aft false deck.


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## manatiburon

Decks are finally glassed!
























Side rod holders glassed
















Not too bad for a first timer








Back deck ended up a little crooked...








Doubled up the panel and sandwiched a woven roving/mat  in between this area, which will hold a Fishmaster grab bar pretty soon


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## BayStYat

Tarp,

Looks great man. 

No more glass work for me, so glad I won't be itching for a while.


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## manatiburon

Did you got some pics of your final work? I was following your build, and thought you took a fishing break in the other skiff you got in the garage  
I am getting close to finish the glass work for sure. A way I found out to deal with glass work was to work on short, 2-4hr windows and get a shower right after, that seems to not give the glass enough time to dig in the skin. As you can see in the pictures, a nice fan always helps!

Soon after fitting the lexan windows to both decks, she's gonna get flipped, to grind out all the PO's half-assed fiberglass he laid. They threw 4 inch cloth strips to half of the bottom, without even sanding the gelcoat... :-/ That should take me a few more hours...

On the better side, soon will be getting the muscle! Here's a pic


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## manatiburon

Finally flipped the boat with the help of a friend. from how it felt  during the process, it looks like it the hull has gained 50-60 pounds, so it should be around 180-190lbs. Should be grinding the hull exterior in the next week , so stay tune for some more progress. 

Thinking a ahead of time, I started brainstorming what I have in mind for the grab bar console. GPS with chart capabilities is above the budget, so I decided to use my current iPad in a waterproof case as the navigation platform, which will be coupled with a gps receiver. Therefore, the console must have a place that can hold the tablet, in addition to space for general storage, as well as supports for two tackle boxes. This is what I have in mind (please excuse the lack of proper scaling on my sketch) 








The iPad will slide in from the top of an acrylic sleeve that will keep it in place. The general storage compartment will be accessed from the side. That way, I will enjoy a chart plotter and good tunes for less than some people pay for a single sd card with a few charts


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## manatiburon

Few more hours of progress this pm. Hull exterior was worse than I thought; half of the hull had 4-5 layers of cloth, which took a loooong time to remove (about 3/16" worth of material). I thought about leaving it, but as soon as I started grinding it I could see that the PO (or Po's) have layered the cloth in two separate ocassions, and looked like they glassed right over some spray paint, with no grinding whatsoever. Here is what 3.5 hours of work looks like
















Look at the massive amount of cloth!








The only major repair I found was right below where the center bench used to be, good thing I reinforced it already!









Maybe 6 more hours of grinding should take it to where I want, then I will get all leveled out with a sander and some 100 grit paper. 
I also worked on the first version of the logo stencil. Planning on stencil the name to the gunnels, close to the transom, and to one of the Lexan doors like this


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## david_kohler

I like the logo and it's getting there.  I am rebuilding a gheenoe too  ;D  Did you test fit the rub rails or do you have different plans for it?  I can tell from the pics it probably will not work.  I say that because I had to raise my rails because I wanted to have my deck high enough to fit a battery under it.  I had more room between the rivet holes and the deck on mine and they wouldn't fit.  What a PIA it was to raise the rails.

here is my build. I stopped updating a thread I started on this site
http://www.customgheenoe.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=21777


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## DuckNut

Tarp - what is the hole in front of the grab bar mount?


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## manatiburon

> I like the logo and it's getting there.  I am rebuilding a gheenoe too  ;D  Did you test fit the rub rails or do you have different plans for it?  I can tell from the pics it probably will not work.  I say that because I had to raise my rails because I wanted to have my deck high enough to fit a battery under it.  I had more room between the rivet holes and the deck on mine and they wouldn't fit.  What a PIA it was to raise the rails.
> 
> here is my build.  I stopped updating a thread I started on this site
> http://www.customgheenoe.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=21777


Good eye, they certainly will not fit as they are. No plans to raise the gunnels, the rub rails will be fitted accordingly, basically I plan to re drill the holes for the rivets a little higher and grind the inside plastic until they fit. Not the prettiest way, but it should work.

Your thread in the CG website was one of the threads that motivated me to tackle this job! about 54 hours or work so far, and still going strong. Most of the work has been grinding out old partially delaminated materials, which has been a real PITA. Still trying to remain motivated though, thinking on the final product!


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## manatiburon

> Tarp - what is the hole in front of the grab bar mount?


Good catch DucKNut, that opening will be to route electrical wiring to the bow and stern. That will also be the route for fishfinder wire and a tinytach tachometer. 
The battery and its cover will sit right on top of it, close to where the future grab bar console will be. The way I have this planned is to run a main wire from battery to a fuse panel at the console, then run wires to their respective devices. Since the boat will sleep outside, I need to be able to remove the battery and the valuables for storage, and quick connections to the battery are a must for this task


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## david_kohler

> I like the logo and it's getting there.  I am rebuilding a gheenoe too  ;D  Did you test fit the rub rails or do you have different plans for it?  I can tell from the pics it probably will not work.  I say that because I had to raise my rails because I wanted to have my deck high enough to fit a battery under it.  I had more room between the rivet holes and the deck on mine and they wouldn't fit.  What a PIA it was to raise the rails.
> 
> here is my build.  I stopped updating a thread I started on this site
> http://www.customgheenoe.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=21777
> 
> 
> 
> Good eye, they certainly will not fit as they are. No plans to raise the gunnels, the rub rails will be fitted accordingly, basically I plan to re drill the holes for the rivets a little higher and grind the inside plastic until they fit. Not the prettiest way, but it should work.
> 
> Your thread in the CG website was one of the threads that motivated me to tackle this job! about 54 hours or work so far, and still going strong. Most of the work has been grinding out old partially delaminated materials, which has been a real PITA. Still trying to remain motivated though, thinking on the final product!
Click to expand...

Thanks!  The good thing for you is that have a lot of glass on the inside so when your grinding on the bottom you don't have to worry about grinding thru the boat.  You can get rid of all the bad glass on the bottom and build it back up.  That is a good idea about grinding the inside rail, never thought of that for myself.  Keep up the good work and I keep thinking of the finished product to keep me going too. I probably have close to a 1000 hours into it and it's been a little bit over a year. Keeping motivated is the hardest part for me right now


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## 'Nano-Skiff'

looking nice. Id love to find one in Houston one day.


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## manatiburon

> Thanks!  The good thing for you is that have a lot of glass on the inside so when your grinding on the bottom you don't have to worry about grinding thru the boat.  You can get rid of all the bad glass on the bottom and build it back up.  That is a good idea about grinding the inside rail, never thought of that for myself.  Keep up the good work and I keep thinking of the finished product to keep me going too.  I probably have close to a 1000 hours into it and it's been a little bit over a year.  Keeping motivated is the hardest part for me right now


That's exactly what I am doing, getting all the the glass that was not applied in the factory out, leaving either original glass or gelcoat. I will post some more pictures of the repair soon.

Thank you all for the motivating words!

Finally, the grinder will get a break. Today I finished grinding the exterior of the hull, for a total of 10 hours of pure grinding work. There was so much material removed, that I think I might have removed up to about 8-10 pounds of glass and resin all together. Too dark to take pictures, but will post pics of the progress soon. I also performed a test with a sander and 100 grit paper to see how hard will be to remove all dings from the grinding. The majority of the dings are even out fairly easy; the rest of them will be filled with a resin-talc putty. 

There are a few areas in need of some serious filling, including part of the keel and the bottom of the rear bench, which bulged out when one of the PO's overfilled the bench with foam, expanding the bench all around :-/ I plan to fill the majority with glass mat and resin, then do minor filling with resin and talc. The area looks solid, but it will be very hard to bring it back to where it was, so I will try to smooth out the transition between the bulged bottom and the rest of the bottom. Wish me luck...


----------



## manatiburon

Here are a few pics of the hull been sealed from outside.

















I got started sanding the hull to smooth the grinder dings, I got to say that is looking a LOT better than the ball of glass it used to be...









Half on left have yet to be sanded








A closer look reveals the little dings yet to be sanded, but most of them are fairly smooth








Should finish the hull by the end of the week. Looking around for Keel Guard prices made me decide to build an integrated guard out of a thick CSM (maybe 1.5 oz) 4-5" strip along the whole keel. Those things are seriously expensive, and given the fact that I am already glassing the bottom it will not take too much to make it.


----------



## manatiburon

Some more progress... Added my version of a keel guard, which was a 4" 1.5 oz CSM along the keel, applied with poly resin with black pigment. I will not paint over it, thus the pigment. That way all scuffs will not be as visible as if I paint the keel instead.
























A little closer shows the texture, which will be just a little smoother as I will sand it off


----------



## manatiburon

After a little sanding, I applied a second coat of pigmented resin with a decent amount of milled glass fibers
























Next on the list, finish sanding/fairing the hull, tape up the keel and start priming!


----------



## Recidivists

The pigmented resin for the keel guard is a great idea. An integrated keel guard of other types of material on a rebuild would be cool, too. Good job.


----------



## manatiburon

> The pigmented resin for the keel guard is a great idea.  An integrated keel guard of other types of material on a rebuild would be cool, too.  Good job.


Thank you Recidivist!
Out of curiosity, maybe for a next project, what other type of material you had in mind for the keel guard?


----------



## Gramps

Cool idea & execution Tarpon! I thought you had added graphite at first, since it was black.


----------



## Recidivists

Unprotected poly resin is notorious for absorbing moisture.  Maybe epoxy with graphite and pigment would be more appropriate.


----------



## manatiburon

Good point, did not though about poly resin water absorption. Maybe now that is textured I might seal it with black gelcoat... or might just throw some black paint... Should be priming the hull this weekend, so I need to decide soon.


----------



## manatiburon

First coat of primer today, although it took some time to get used to a new paint gun and a new (to me) compressor, the final product looks a LOT better than what I got about a month and a half ago... Here are some shots of the progress:
































Now it is easy to see the spots I missed  :-/









































Next on the list:
Repair trailer bunks 
Repair minor holes/ dings with filling putty
Any suggestions for a putty that is compatible with the Alkyd base of the Rustoleum primer?


----------



## DuckNut

> Any suggestions for a putty that is compatible with the Alkyd base of the Rustoleum primer?


Any putty will work, use what you were using - problem is you need to grind down to glass and then repaint. Useless to put it over the paint.

Doing a great job.


----------



## manatiburon

I was checking the data sheet for the 3M glazing putty, and it states that I can use it on clean, sanded primed surfaces. I will get my hands on a tube Tomorrow, and get them sealed before the top coat. Thanks for the input, DN!


----------



## DuckNut

I think you are referring to the auto body filler. The main ingredient is talc- talc absorbs water and will break off. If it is a one pat (ie: comes in a tube) that is not the right stuff to use.


----------



## manatiburon

http://www.fgci.com/tds/3M White Glazing Putty 05095 TDS.pdf


----------



## DuckNut

I knew the red was filled with talc so I assumed the white was as well. 

So here are the ingredients for three of 3M's putties. With these containing 40-60% talc they are not good to use in a marine enviroment.

Red
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?mwsId=SSSSSuUn_zu8l00xM8mSox_1Mv70k17zHvu9lxtD7SSSSSS--

Marson
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?mwsId=SSSSSuUn_zu8l00xM8tGMxtvmv70k17zHvu9lxtD7SSSSSS--

Dynatron
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?mwsId=SSSSSuUn_zu8l00xM8tvmxm95v70k17zHvu9lxtD7SSSSSS--



At first I could not find the actual MSDS on the 3M site - so I continued to look and found it. 30-40% talc.

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?mwsId=SSSSSuUn_zu8l00xM8mUMxtGPv70k17zHvu9lxtD7SSSSSS--


----------



## DuckNut

This is what you should use

http://www.fgci.com/bp_viewproduct.aspx?itemnum=134012&oldItem=134012


----------



## manatiburon

I see. I will pick it up Tomorrow, thanks! Does this mean I need to bring the spots back to the glass?


----------



## DuckNut

yes

Edit: ps- don't forget to get a small bottle of MEK


----------



## manatiburon

Got the Poly fill and applied it yesterday. To my unfortunate surprise, after applying it to the hull, this thing does not dry tack free as the label stated. I cracked a big chunk I got left in the mixing bowl, and you can clearly see the tacky layer on top. After cursing for a few minutes [smiley=angry4.gif], and after removing most of the surfacing agent with acetone, I was able to sand it off. Maybe a bad batch, who knows... What a nightmare...


----------



## DuckNut

You mixed it wrong. Try it again and just put it on a piece of wood to test.


----------



## manatiburon

I tried twice, both with 1.5% MEKP (new bottle BTW) and around 1%, both with the same results. I will try it again later in some other surface, but I do not see how the amount of MEKP will change the surface texture though... I guess I am missing some piece of information  :-/
I should say that sticky means fully cured (hardened) but with a thin layer of some sort of sticky surface. Anyhow, I will prime and paint this weekend, and will try to practice a couple of more times as you suggested, with a higher MEKP mix and the the PM'd secret weapon


----------



## DuckNut

Mix the can fully as some settling may have occurred. Keep practicing - you'll get it.


----------



## manatiburon

Will do, Thanks again for the feedback. In the name of having at least a picture of the progress (if I can call it that) today, here it is


----------



## manatiburon

Last coat of primer, should sand tomorrow and lay the first topcoat layer over the weekend, weather permitting...


----------



## anytide

lookinggoodtarponero


----------



## manatiburon

> lookinggoodtarponero


Thank you! Now I can finally get stuff done without grinding and sanding for hours! I am really looking forward to get the exterior hull done; I'm excited about riggin' this thing up!


----------



## manatiburon

Spent some quality time with the Wife speculating and mixing paint, to reach the color we were going after. Our version of a sea foam green, we call it 'milky green', with rust-o-leum base marine paints (gloss white and deep green)
















for future reference, color was achieved using a proportion of 21.3 white :1 deep green (64 oz white, 3 oz green)

First layer of topcoat after sanding primer 
































Second layer is suggested to be at 24 hrs,  I will leave it at least 36 so it dries completely, sand it with 220 and recoat.


----------



## PG350

Love the color and how you got it.


----------



## NoeSmyrnaBch

looks great. Was thinking of doing the same thing with the rustoleum, even the same color! Are you spraying or roll/tipping?


----------



## manatiburon

Thanks guys, I am really happy with the final look. Application specs
HVLP @ 50 psi 
Thinned 10% with acetone
Levels out very nicely, and conserves a good wet edge during the application. i have used 2-part polyurethanes in hvlp systems, but this enamel was a real breeze to use!


----------



## manatiburon

Final coat of paint was laid today, this is the final look, a little better than when I got it...








I really like how the keel guard turned out!

















































At the end I got 2-3 sags that I will smooth out after it dries well. It is not the best finish, you can tell from the pictures that the surface could have used some more fairing, but honestly the hull was just too bad to start with, and I am getting anxious to get in the water... So far I have 78 hours put on it, and I can smell the fish already...


----------



## DuckNut

Looks great Tarponero


----------



## anytide

"I am getting anxious to get in the water... So far I have 78 hours put on it, and I can smell the fish already..."

stay outta my spots! [smiley=bootyshake.gif]


----------



## manatiburon

LOL! [smiley=lalalala.gif]

I wish I knew that much about the spots in the Bay. I came from Puerto Rico a few years back and I am still learning the ropes around here! For me that's the fun though; scout some satellite images and local reports, then choose the tide and hope for the best


----------



## david_kohler

Looking really good! Cant wait to see it slimed up and used!


----------



## manatiburon

Thanks! I still have to finish the interior, but should be a lot easier now that everything has been glassed already.


A while back, I posted what I had in mind for a grab bar console. A few weeks back, it occurred to me that I can re-purpose the center seat I took out previously and use it to build a tall but narrow grab bar console. Since the paint still hardening, I decided to tackle this project today, cutting it the seat to fit my projected dimensions. Looks like a little magic trick, so prepare to be amazed! 
Now you see it








Now is taped








and Presto!








I will bond together the pieces with milled fibers and resin, then make the backing with a couple of CSM layers. Since the seat only measures 9" wide and the Fishmaster grab bar measures about 11.5" wide, I will also add 4 tabs that will be in contact with the grab bar, providing a surface to attach starboard clamps.

So far, the console will hold a 6-gang toggle switch, a tiny tach, a small depth finder and a Ram Mount for my iPad.


----------



## manatiburon

Ended up attaching everything with a 4- inch wide 1.5 oz CSM from inside. Then, the backing was made using 2 layers of 1.5 oz CSM, reinforced in the sides with leftover stitchmat. I laid everything over a layer of aluminum foil, which to my surprise peel off once it dried!


----------



## manatiburon

Some more progress on the console. Finish adding tabs to the sides, and a first layer of Poly fill; I finally got the hang of the darn Ploy Fill (Thanks for the advice DuckNut)!
















The Grab bar finally arrived! So I gave the console another sanding session and could not resist to see how it will look like
























After fitting, I added a second sweep of poly fill to the whole console, will be sanding that over the weekend and making the starboard clamps (thanks to Anytide for the Starboard  )... Stay tuned, whoever is out there!


----------



## DuckNut

Looking good Tarp

What are the tabs for?


----------



## manatiburon

Thanks DN. As you can see, the seat was a tad too narrow to hold both sides of a starboard clamp, so I needed to extend the console width a little to provide a surface for the outer side of the clamp. They are longer than I need them, but I will trim once I have the clamps and make a pre fitting. In essence it should end up like this:

Console tab []half clamp(grab bar)half clamp with bolts


----------



## DuckNut

I got ya...

Idea: if you lay the box on the rail on a flat surface and then add a tab (like you did) that wraps around the rail halfway, pull out rail, trim the curved tabs you would end up with a more finished look. Just wax the rail first and the resin won't stick.


----------



## manatiburon

That will be nice! I just used all my leftover fiber on the tabs I made, so I will keep the idea in mind for my next console  It should look better once I have the starboard clamps presented and grind of the tab edges for a more round look that will be easier on the eyes...

BTW I was running the poly fill too low on MEKP in the beginning. Now after 24 hours the fill is rock hard and no tacky surfaces! Thanks for the info and encouragement.


----------



## DuckNut

That stuff is great. Really smooth and made specifically for marine use - ZERO talc in it like so many other brands. Talc absorbs water- not good for a boat.

Keep rocking bro.


----------



## manatiburon

Do you know what they use as the filling substrate for this stuff? Silica?


----------



## DuckNut

Some silica but mostly glass powder.


----------



## manatiburon

Started sanding the second coat of Poly Fill on the console, and the sander died on me  [smiley=angry4.gif]. Since there are a whole lot of other things to do, I got the original bunk set redone. I will add a set of bunk brackets in the center for another set of 10' bunks that will run from the transom, to support the engine weight. The remaining front hull (4-5') will be supported right at the keel with the two rollers I moved to the front (not at the final location in the picture).
















Next on the list:
get a new sander  
finish console
flip the boat and finish hull interior


----------



## manatiburon

Finally flipped the boat, I even forgot how it look like so here's how I left it a while back...









Got a new sander and got back to sand the console, which is looking pretty decent now with a couple sweeps of polyfill. Last week I got my new fuel tank, which fitted right as I expected...
















Check for fitting of the grab bar base, good to go as well...








After a couple of work sessions, I got the console clamps made out of starboard, which made me appreciate all those custom builders out there; this kind of parts take a LOT of time to make (unless you have a complete shop and do not have to run around looking for people with drill press and table saws!)


----------



## anytide

you go..


----------



## DuckNut

I used these cut into strips on the bottom of my cooler and it never slides anywhere. Would work for your tank.

http://greatlakesskipper.com/ski-centurion-7-x-5-inch-non-skid-black-rubber-boat-mats-pair


----------



## manatiburon

> I used these cut into strips on the bottom of my cooler and it never slides anywhere.  Would work for your tank.
> 
> http://greatlakesskipper.com/ski-centurion-7-x-5-inch-non-skid-black-rubber-boat-mats-pair


Yes, I got some leftover Vibram rubber sheets I will use for that (I got that to resole some sandals), which should perform similarly. space is really tight, so it shouldn't move that much. Just FYI, the tank fitted right in between the old seat walls, so anyone with a 'noe trying to do something similar, this tank is the ticket.


----------



## DuckNut

Doing a great job.


----------



## manatiburon

Thank you! Doing what I can without going overboard in labor and budget... the motor should be arriving before the end of the month, so my plan is to have both trailer and boat ready by the end of this month, so better hurry up!


----------



## tmetz

Looks Awesome!!!!!!


----------



## manatiburon

> Looks Awesome!!!!!!


Thanks!

Here's to more progress... Taped up and ready for primer
















First coat of primer applied, I think I will do a second coat before applying the top coat.
































It ain't perfect, but will certainly work  

Now, a fitting of the console clamps shows that the tabs were just the right length
























The final shape of the tabs should be something like this


----------



## manatiburon

Second coat of primer and the console is ready for paint!


----------



## manatiburon

First topcoat layer with anti-skid

































Will let dry for a few days before applying the final topcoat to the whole interior


----------



## anytide

did you put drain holes in the console?
looks great !!


----------



## DuckNut

You better spray faster...tide is out in the bay catching all the fish.


----------



## manatiburon

> did you put drain holes in the console?
> looks great !!


Thanks!, the bottom of the console has a 1/4 inch hole right now, but will make it a 1/2 inch drain right before painting it. I might even do a larger hole since I have to pass through a transducer plug and some other things...


----------



## manatiburon

> You better spray faster...tide is out in the bay catching all the fish.


Save me some, Tide! 
Spraying and rolling as fast as I can DN, but this topcoat takes a fair amount of time to harden... wish I had the funds for a two part polyurethane. I am still waiting for the motor to arrive, so even if I tested it, will be a poling trip (nothing bad with that!). I also ordered the pop rivets for the rubrail from Gheenoe MFG, which should get here sooner than later.


----------



## TidewateR

coming along nicely! very inspiring


----------



## manatiburon

Thanks TW!

        Some pictures of the final coat, at last I'm done with painting the hull!









































Should be getting the SS hardware for the console soon. Now, next on the list:
-Do some TLC on rubrails
-finish fitting Lexan hatches 

Rubrails will be installed a little different from how they were installed originally. From the factory, rivets are installed from the outside, leaving the thick portion of the rubrail in the inside of the hull. Since I will be grinding the inside of the rubrail to fit it over the new decks (due to little clearance) I will invert the rubrails so that the thick portion will face the outside. That way the rivets are not as exposed to the water, and it will be easier to grind just a little tab instead. here's a picture of the rub rail cross section;


----------



## BayStYat

Dam that is nicely done.


----------



## manatiburon

Thanks Bay, your Ghee Fly is looking nice too! Wanna trade ?

Some more progress today. Drove to DMV and got the trailer finally registered to my name. Before this boat build, I sold a VW camper, and still had my camper's plate, which I was able to transfer to the trailer and save some dough [smiley=1-thumbsup1.gif]!! Labor wise, I started to work on sanding the rubrails, which were really oxidized. I also worked on fitting the lexan hatches. Although I did a frost finish with the sander, I am not sure if I want to polish them or not... same with adding hinges  :-/


----------



## DuckNut

I think you should paint the logo in your avatar on them.


----------



## david_kohler

> I think you should paint the logo in your avatar on them.


x2 That or an etching. Your getting really close now and it looking nice and clean! Love the paint job too, it changes everything to see it in one color. Good use of space with the gas tank, I made sure mine fit a sideways before I bonded anything in as well.


----------



## manatiburon

That was the original plan, I guess I'm getting lazy on the last stretch... I even have the stencil ready...  
I will do the logo on the hatches, I got some forest green topcoat leftover, that will give a good contrast against the compartment floors


----------



## manatiburon

> I think you should paint the logo in your avatar on them.
> 
> 
> 
> x2  That or an etching.  Your getting really close now and it looking nice and clean!  Love the paint job too, it changes everything to see it in one color.  Good use of space with the gas tank, I made sure mine fit a sideways before I bonded anything in as well.
Click to expand...

 Thanks SB, I am curious about etching, how do you do that to acrylic? I only know of chemical etching in metals...


----------



## LWalker

I think you can tape it off and lightly sandblast it....


----------



## manatiburon

That's how you do it! Thanks for the info. I tried today to use the paint/stencil I had, but it did not worked out well. I will have to get a can of temporary adhesive to keep the stencil in place. Since that is a finishing touch, I wet sanded the hatches with 1000 grit paper and will keep working in the console/grab bar combo, rubrail and trailer bunks... Stay tuned!


----------



## matt_baker_designs

Great work! I'm looking forward to seeing the next set of progress pics!


----------



## flyfshrmn82

Pretty slick!


----------



## manatiburon

Thanks Guys!


Here's a little sneak peek of the grab bar-console combo. I 5200'd the base, along with appropriate screws. ''im pretty happy with the end product; I also have the appropriate clearance below the console to put the battery box, so were are right on track [smiley=1-thumbsup1.gif]








































Also got the long bunks finally carpeted


----------



## DuckNut

Love the pink cooler.

Wax the bunks before you put them on the trailer. Brett has a post specifically on how to do it.


----------



## manatiburon

Yeah, the cooler was red some day in the past  The search function of this site kind of sucks, I will try to search around for a bit, hopefully I will find it. Do you remember the product used?


----------



## DuckNut

Pinging Brett


----------



## Recidivists

Gulf wax. Regular old paraffin wax found in the canning section of your grocery. Rub it in the bunks. Least polluting of all options.


----------



## makin moves

Just get some gulf wax (paraffin wax) go fishing and before you put the boat on the trailer, when the bunks are hot from sitting in the sun rub the block of wax on them. Picked this up from Brett a few years ago been doing since. One block will last a coulpe of times worth of waxing.


----------



## manatiburon

Got it. Thanks guys! Will put in the to do list once I get the 'noe ready to launch. Meanwhile, finally got the rivets from Gheenoe MFG today, so I took some time to install the rubrail. Put them reversed, so now the widest portion of the rubral faces outward. I did not even had to grind the inside of the rubrails over the decks.
Now it looks a little wider too!


----------



## david_kohler

That is really turning out nice! The rail flip worked out perfect for you. The rail is usually where wire is run, but because you have the chase under the floor your covered and more room to boot! It won't be long now. Have you set a finish date? Mine dead line is what ever time I want to go to sleep before I wake up THIS SUNDAY to go fishing ;D It actually did help the last two week push to get it all done.


----------



## manatiburon

Oh, deadlines... I wish I put her in the water this Sunday, but I am waiting now for the registration lettering and the fuel line. I still have a few things left, but have fun! I am really glad that you are going to be in the water soon, you must be PRETTY excited! [smiley=1-beer-german.gif]


----------



## PG350

I love your gheenoe. Looks very functional and clean. I am probably going to steal your way of mounting the grab bar to the floor for my project.


----------



## manatiburon

Thanks! I am following your build pretty close as well (is under my favorites topics!); that skiff have really cool lines. If you do a base like I did, have a few thick mats sandwiched between the base and the floor. The screws really grab to that glass, so you can tight'em up really good without worrying about stripping it.


----------



## PG350

I used to have a Gheenoe and loved it. I then went to a 14ft Johnson style hull so would be safer for my kid. Now I went to this hull just because I liked the way it looked. It is going to be way more work than I thought but will feel good riding around in a boat that has so much of your own sweat time into it. 

I always wanted the open floor plan in my Gheenoe. 

How solid does that grab bar feel mounted that way?


----------



## manatiburon

I understand, nothing better that riding a skiff that has EXACTLY what you want and nothing else! The grab bar felt really strong during the test fit, I think it has enough base to handle quite a bit of abuse. Only time will tell...


----------



## Brett

> Love the pink cooler.
> 
> Wax the bunks before you put them on the trailer.  Brett has a post specifically on how to do it.





> Gulf canning wax rubbed into the carpet of your new bunks
> is cheaper and works as well as the polymer slicks.
> Also the wax is absorbed into the carpet fibers and acts as a preservative.
> How do I know this? I've been waxing bunks since 1974.
> Tried the slicks once, they work, but I prefer the Gulf Wax.
> 
> 
> 
> http://www.microskiff.com/reviews/diy/trailer-bunks.html
> 
> Daytona Kemo agreed after testing...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Then the new bunks had to be waxed. When Brett first told me this, I though he had a screw loose, but I depended on his judgment and his experience. I laid the bunks out in the sun to let them heat up. Black carpet heats up pretty quick. In preparation, I had purchased some Gulf Wax (just like granny used to use when canning preserves) from the local grocery. After the carpet got hot, I rubbed the wax on heavily until the carpet started looking like it had a coating of fine frost on a cold morning. Then I left it in the sun for about an hour until it glistened.
> 
> 
> 
> Then on launch day...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I backed it down to the water and disconnected the hook from the winch. It slid down into the water like I had greased those bunks with gull poop. (Thanks, again, Brett). Retrieving it was just as easy. I lined her up and tugged on the bow line and it slid up the bunks with almost no effort.
> 
> Click to expand...
Click to expand...


----------



## manatiburon

Time to post some progress...
From my last post until today, I have installed and worked on:
-Extra pair of bunks
-Engine install/maintenance
-Bottom carpet
-switch panel in console
-bilge and baitwell
Today I got the time and a perfect weather allowed for a first splash, which I took with my wife and 5 month-old daughter through the ICW...
In the driveway, lock and loaded








Floats pretty even... The engine did not come with the trim/tilt pin, so during the ride the nose was way down, so if there is anybody out there with an extra pin, lemme know! Otherwise I will add a bolt this week.








The Fam ready for a well deserved ride!








Temporary shade mde out of an umbrella stuck into a 1 1/4 pvc tub into a rod holder, perfect solution until I fit a bimini top I got from a friend...








We got a 6-mile ride to Shell Island, the only annoying thing was the fact that I couldn't correct the motor's position, so it was a pretty inefficient ride (about 4 miles/gallon). 








Our little captain seemed to enjoy the ride!








Few shot of the inside
























Overall, piloting from the stern platform was awesome, great visibility over the umbrella, and the extension worked out just fine...








Instead of having a heavy battery to operate the bilge pump, I borrowed two 5 aH, 12V sealed batteries, which fitted perfrectly INSIDE the console. I am thinking that I should connect three of these and have them all inside the console, to get a cleaner deck and less weight overall... Here in the picture you can see two of them, separated by some extra oil...Must add that the electric wiring mess that you see it is all provisional, I repurpose some of the replaced trailer wire for the boat, until I get some funds for tin-coated wire.








Pump system was also rigged, which consist in an on-demand baitwell pump (which will onnect to a baitwell that fits the stern deck opening) and a bilge pump, all rigged to the switches in the console...









There are some things left to do, including painting the nosecap, fine tuning the trailer bunks, among others. The "Tarponero" have been water tested, and the tarpon are still rolling, so I might still push finishing those things until Thanksgiving...


----------



## david_kohler

Yeah, it's in the water! Love the family trip, it won't be long before your son is holding a rod and helping you tangle some lines. Lol. Turned out very nice! I still got things to do on mine, got to get the fishing bug tamed before I get back to it.


----------



## flyfshrmn82

Well done.


----------



## joeeth

hello all. first post here. i love the idea of the keel guard. i am in the process of rebuilding a river hawk b60 and i think i am going to try this. 

i have 2 questions.

1. was it hard taping off the curve? i have never done it before so any tips you can give is appreciated. 

2. does anyone think it would be a bad idea to use a Herculiner bed liner kit to do the keel guard? the box says it is water proof. 

thanks and any help you can give is appreciated.


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## anytide

bravo !


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## BayStYat

Great job.

Question on the tiller arm, do you find you have to reach out far to the left while driving? 

And making a right turn seems almost impossible. 

Thanks what I experienced. 


Great job man, enjoy!


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

> Great job.
> 
> Question on the tiller arm, do you find you have to reach out far to the left while driving?
> 
> And making a right turn seems almost impossible.
> 
> Thanks what I experienced.
> 
> 
> Great job man, enjoy!


 You need to have long arms with a tiller ext. Maybe adjust your length a bit?


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## manatiburon

Thank you all for the compliments, I am really happy with the outcome now that I have splashed it. 



> hello all. first post here. i love the idea of the keel guard. i am in the process of rebuilding a river hawk b60 and i think i am going to try this.
> 
> i have 2 questions.
> 
> 1. was it hard taping off the curve? i have never done it before so any tips you can give is appreciated.
> 
> 2. does anyone think it would be a bad idea to use a Herculiner bed liner kit to do the keel guard? the box says it is water proof.
> 
> thanks and any help you can give is appreciated.


1. Taping the curve takes a few minutes, but once you have glassed your fiberglass tape, you just basically follow it through to get a nice curve.
2. I have seen Herculiner used in boats, and it works. bear in mind that it is a mechanical bond between glass and Herculiner, so make sure you grind your surface well to ensure proper adhesion



> Great job.
> 
> Question on the tiller arm, do you find you have to reach out far to the left while driving?
> 
> And making a right turn seems almost impossible.
> 
> Thanks what I experienced.


Tillers tend to have an offset to port, so I use my left arm while navigating and that gives me enough arm span to hold on the grab bar and to pilot the boat. As it was suggested, get yourself a longer PVC and try it, cutting it as you see fit best, then you talk to anytide to get one of those nifty tuff tillers !  ;D I am currently in that process, my tiller is a little short, so I will add about 4-6 more inches to see how it handles. Beware: too long and is gonna be a real PITA to move around it, so make it the shortest possible.


This morning I took the boat for another spin to get the tilt/trim adjustment done, to work on getting the idle where I wanted and of course, renew my hopes on fly fishing, as I have not wet a fly in almost a year!

Got the motor adjustment done, the bow now rises a bit, which gives me some clearance going through small chop.  The Idle is right where I need it to be, and poling through some of the grass flats off Coffeepot bayou I got what I wanted, FISH!!! [smiley=1-beer-german.gif]
Nothing too fancy, but a few ladyfishes on a yellow/white clouser minnow I tied a while back, as well as a Mackerel on a red/white clouser

















Not bad for a 2-hour trip in the water...

Next on the list:

-Finish Nosecap
-Finish rod tube plates
-GET A TARPON! Today I got taxonomically close, as ladyfish are in the same order as tarpon  but soon I will get the silver king at the end of my fly rod...


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## manatiburon

Back with some progress...

The nosecap is finished, as well as the covers for the rod tubes. 
Before paint








I integrated a piece of curved fiberglass I got left from the old seat, and formed a handle that should be useful when beaching the boat...








After some paint

















I have yet to install it, but hopefully will have some time later this week. I also got to work with the motor's bolts; I drilled the transom and the holes came out right in between a reinforced part and a thinner part inside the transom, which means I got to cut a piece of the thick transom to provide an even surface in order to tighten the bolts safely.


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## richg99

Perhaps one or two of these support plates will spread the load. Rich

http://m.overtons.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?pdesc=T-H-Marine-Transom-Support-Plate&i=24949&aID=601M11&merchID=4006


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## manatiburon

That plate look slick, but I would have to grind a big chunk of glas in order to get an even surface to put it on. I think I'm going to take hole saw and drill around the uneven surface then just put two oversized washers to distribute the load as another member suggested. Thanks for the feedback!


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## manatiburon

Got some time to tackle a few things I had pending. I gather up some courage and punch two half circles in part of the transom with a hole saw, to start evening out the surface








Wood was solid but moist, so I decided to clean it up dried the best I can and slab things up with 5200. Maybe everybody by now know this, but using any petroleum based lubricant (e.g. WD40) after the application of the 5200 allows a good deal of handling, which will otherwise will be PITA to cleanup. This is the result








I partially tighten the motor back, to remove the excess 5200, but will fully tighten once the 5200 fully cures. I also installed the nosecap and the rod tube covers, which add a nice finishing touch to the project
































Next on the list:
Finish bimini top
Service trailer wheels
and get it in the water ASAP!!!!!


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## manatiburon

Time for an update:

  Progress has been slow these days, I have made a few upgrades in the past weeks. I was a little hesitant to poke holes in the boat for rod holders, so I decided to use my cooler as the base for a few holders positioned for both transport and trolling positions.

















I found an old GLoomis push pole for a few bucks, and decided to get it to replace a bamboo pole I have. The thing was covered in duct tape (don't ask me why [smiley=1-doh.gif]), so after a while I was able to remove it all (Thanks to some of your suggestions), to find the pleaseant surprise that it is a graphite pole. Now I will be cleaning it and prepping it for an epoxy coat (s), probably with some pigment to reduce UV harm. 

























I also finished making the push pole holders, out of 1 1/2" PVC Sch40









Also took care of the engine cowling that was really beat up. Originally, the cowling was silver (You can see it in the first pic of this post, where it is silver below the original decals), so I decided to bring it back to its original color, Right now it has two layers of enamel, but probably will work on two more thin coats...


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## manatiburon

Push pole is cleaning out good! Just finished sanding the pole, looks really nice








I am considering going down the route of UV stable epoxy coat with routinary 303 application; I want to have a clear coat but I am reluctant to go the lacquer route, as the pole will be stored indoors...


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## manatiburon

Finished pushpole and pushpole brackets....
























Ended up finishing the pole with MinWax Fast Drying Polyurethane. With only two layers, the pole looks great and the clear dried up fast and hard, even below 60F. Chose a satin finish, which actually is a little more glossy that I expected. Not a bad push pole rig for 50$ total...


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## BayStYat

ok, ok ok, how much for the push pole holders?

damb thats tight!!!!


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## joeeth

i agree. i would love to buy those push pole holders for my river hawk b60.


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## david_kohler

Great job on the push pole holders! going to "try" and copy this DYI project.


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## manatiburon

Thanks guys,

This design is more of a Hybrid, combining the designs from a couple of bracket manufacturers. I tried to keep it as simple as possible, thus eliminating the need to purchase/breaking extra parts. Needless to say, it takes me a little bit of time to make these puppies, and none of them look exactly alike. If you are hunting for some brackets made out something better than PVC, anytide's products are the choice. If you just want to have an OK set of PVC brackets, PM and we could figure something out.


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## manatiburon

All right guys, 

      Due to a few PM's, I have decided to go ahead and offer a set of these holders for sale. I will post the details of the components and price in the corresponding Vendors section by Tomorrow, but here is a sneak peek of the colors I got so far:








I should get the first batch of each color in about 7-10 days. Spread the word!


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## manatiburon

Just wanted to update a few shots of the boat, close to be finished. Currently thinking about selling the boat, as I got a job offer out of state and I might not be able to pull it. Once I refinish the engine, I will put an ad somewhere...


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## habanalure

Great job! enjoyed the entire post.
Tell me please about faring the PVC pipe with a light bulb?
Enjoy!
Thanks
Habanajoe


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## habanalure

What kind of rail did you use?


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## manatiburon

PVC flaring was really easy once the plastic was warm, just gently press the bulb and keep pressing until it cools off a bit. The grab bar is a fishmaster grab bar. So far it has performed great.


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## habanalure

Tarponero, where did you get the rubber railing?
I like it and would like to use it on mine.
Thanks


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## manatiburon

The rub rail came with the boat. I believe you can order it from Gheen mfg. (Gheenoe makers) or west marine.


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## manatiburon

Because we can't have enough pictures.... Here's a few shots of the Tarponero's 'new' poling platform and round live well. 








It poles real nice, it surprisingly stable when I'm up in the platform








An a few more shots for the heck of it...
















Changed the prop to another one with about 30% more pitch, which made the skiff move at ~12mph with two people
































Happy Captain!








[smiley=1-beer-german.gif] Cheers All!


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## DuckNut

Wonderful job Tarp!! You look at home on her.


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## BayStYat

Tarp,

did you get any PPH in black yet?


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## manatiburon

Thanks DN! I have certainly enjoyed every minute of the build, and I can say that it has everything I need to cover my needs, from fly fishing the flats to troll spoons for Mack in the bay!

Bay, the brackets in stock are moving rather slow, so the funds for getting more colors are not there yet... Sorry Man!


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## manatiburon

Some more progress...

  Completed motor facelift, with the luck of finding a OEM decal set for a 6.5 hp (very rare to find) for a few bucks.
A little sanding








All blacked out








Final touches with OEM decals
























Also got the platform secured with a nice pair of 316 1/4" turnbuckles









Got a Perko Nav light installed, rare 'camo' color which went very well with the deck's oyster white.

















Getting close to the final lap now, a few fixes to the trailer and minor lighting installations, then I will be able to sleep at night


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## Chris Sheffield

Remember this thread??

I bought the Tarponero a few years back from a guy in Wilmington NC.

Great boat! Stable and sturdy, while remaining light weight and maneuverable. Still working on the setup. I desired a more open floor plan, so I moved the grab bar forward to the front deck and attached an arm to hold the trolling motor. All electronics now go through a Marine battery mounted beneath the rear deck. I also added a depth finder on the front deck which is visible from standing on the front deck, or from the captain's chair. Yes, she also gained a pedestal and over-sized fishing seat, aka the captain's chair. I will update pictures soon.

She is really a great boat and I appreciate all the hard work that went into it!!


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