# Solo14 Build Discussion



## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

The strongback is probably overbuilt, but I'm figuring on building more than one hull, and since it's put together with deck screws, I can always take it apart and use the materials for some other project.  It took one and a half sheets of ply and 14 2x4 studs plus a box of 2 1/2" deck screws. Home Depot supplied the materials, which I am not counting toward the cost goal since they will be re-used.


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## CurtisWright (May 9, 2012)

Sweet Build!!! I will be creeping on this thread.


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## Izzy11 (Dec 23, 2011)

Man... Your warehouse looks like a boat building facility ;D...

Very cool... The idea behind your boat design is very interesting.. Wish I would of known you liked building boats when I met you because I've rebuilt about 4 boats and refinished "well", many more. I like using composits and am a fan of micros... I also like open layouts whether with or without a front deck. If you need help or would just like help Ill be glad to come up there and give you an extra hand.


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

Just what I need, serious entertainment!
This thread will be watched intently. 

Float/paddle/pole in 3 inches will be no problem.
Running in 3 inches with a stock outboard might be a bit more difficult. :-?


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

I think running in 3 inches may be possible if the tunnel works as planned. I owned a Pathfinder 17 tunnel, which was considerably heavier, and it would run in 3", maybe less. OTOH, I'm not sure I'm brave enough to really run that shallow, especially standing, with all the rocks and oyster bars around here....maybe when the water is clear. Initial calculations show (as you point out) floating in 3" is no problem.


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

Pogress as of last Wednesday:  The frames are cut out and mounted to the strong back.  Checking and double checking the measurements was the hardest part.  It's amazing how easily lines can get 1/4 inch or more off.  I'm obsessive about being as accurate as possible at this stage since every part is CAD drawn, and if I'm accurate now, all should fit together without a lot of head scratching later.


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

Thursday's work:  I got a great deal on a rough sawn cypress board in a 16' length.  It's a nice tough and durable wood that's not too heavy.  I ripped it for 1/2 x 1" stringers.  The stringers are probably overkill, but for the first hull, I'm going to be conservative.


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

Friday progress:  I got the tunnel cut, installed and glassed.  There were way more angles involved than I would have imagined, but mostly everything fit on the first try.  I fudged the rest with expoxy/filler.


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

> I fudged the rest with expoxy/filler.


Gotta watch out for that expoxy.
Anything ex has a tendency to develop an attitude!

Warned ya' I'd be watching intently...


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## BAREFOOTFISHERMAN (Dec 13, 2012)

COOL LOOKING.REMINDS ME OF THE SOLO SKIFF.WHAT ARE THE DIMENSIONS?


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

It's 14' LOA, 55" max beam at the deck, 48" at the keel. There's about 2.5 degrees of deadrise at the transom, slightly increasing toward the bow so that that it will handle better than a completely flat bottom. The cockpit is tiny, just enough to carry some gear and a small cooler.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Vertigo - great design.

Once upon a time there was one on here called nanoskiff that was very similar - see if you can find it. The reason I remember it was because I thought it was a great small boat layout but also thought that it would even better if all of the essentials were sunk into the floor. ie: bait well, cooler, troller, shallow water anchor, etc...leaving a completely clear deck (nothing to trip over or have to walk around).


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## oysterbreath (Jan 13, 2009)

Very nice looking craft you got there. I'll be watching this one real close too. I gotta say, i didn't realize just how big it really is till you put those demensions down. Man, so you gonna keep her on a trailer ortruck bed?


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

> Vertigo - great design.
> 
> Once upon a time there was one on here called nanoskiff that was very similar - see if you can find it.  The reason I remember it was because I thought it was a great small boat layout but also thought that it would even better if all of the essentials were sunk into the floor.  ie: bait well, cooler, troller, shallow water anchor, etc...leaving a completely clear deck (nothing to trip over or have to walk around).


I fish almost exclusively with artificial bait, so I won't be adding a bait well, although there is plenty of room fore and aft for one.  There will be one rod tube port and starboard, and maybe a couple of vertical rod holders.  I'm thinking of just putiing a hole all the way through one of the sponsons for the anchor pin (nothing to stick up).  When not in use, the anchor pin would be carried in a tube next to one rod tube.  To keep things light, I don't plan on a trolling motor on this boat, and I'm still thinking about a clever mounting for a 15' push pole... I don't plan on doing much poling either.  The deck should be pretty clear, but I do insist on a grab bar.  Hit one oyster bar at speed standing up and you'll agree with me.


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

> Very nice looking craft you got there. I'll be watching this one real close too. I gotta say, i didn't realize just how big it really is till you put those demensions down. Man, so you gonna keep her on a trailer ortruck bed?


I'm figuring that the finished hull will be 150 to 175#, which one (young) man could handle, and even slide into the back of a pickup. But, I'm not that young anymore and my back tells me a trailer would be best.


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## oysterbreath (Jan 13, 2009)

That weight sounds about right. I agree with you about the grab bar. Back before I started my build I was seriously considering building a modified Kara Hummer. You're build should be significantly better than a kara but it does kinda remind me of the kara hummer. What angle is your transom?


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

Yesterday's progress:  The sides went on pretty easily, I've cut  templates of 5mm barrier ply as I've gone along, so now I have templates for bulkheads, and sides.  Notice the custom epoxy pan in the photo.  It's half a kitty liter jug.  Just right to keep the epoxy from going off, fits a roller, and reusable.  It even has a handle and best of all, it's free...if you have cats.


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

> That weight sounds about right. I agree with you about the grab bar. Back before I started my build I was seriously considering building a modified Kara Hummer. You're build should be significantly better than a kara but it does kinda remind me of the kara hummer. What angle is your transom?


The transom angle is 12 degrees.  Plenty to jump almost straight up out of the hole (if necessary).


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

The bottom went on today, fastened with zip ties and brads.  It was in the 80's, so the epoxy cooked off pretty fast and I had to work quickly.  So far, alignment is pretty good, and all left and right panels have come out symmetrical within about 1/8 of an inch.  I'm debating whether to flip the hull and do the interior and deck before glassing, glassing the bottom now


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## [email protected] (Nov 12, 2012)

How were you able to project the curved hull panels to the flat layout panels in sketch-up?

Thnaks


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

> How were you able to project the curved hull panels to the flat layout panels in sketch-up?
> 
> Thnaks


Good question!  Sketch-up has no sophisticated tool for doing anything like this.  What I did was draw fair curves along the lines I wanted, and then used the extrude tool to pull the cross-section of the panel along the curves.  It seems to work, but is a real POTA.  The sides and bottom fit very well.  The deck will be interesting because I drew in a little crown.  

If I were doing any more complicated design I'd invest in a more sophisticated CAD program; however, part of the challenge with this boat was to keep it something that any one could build inexpensively without paper plans.


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

Big day today! I finished taping the exterior seams, flipped the hull and began glassing the interior. I also found a good deal on a 9.9 Merc 2-stroke that will be perfect for this boat. Here's a view from the sky cam.


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

I got lots of detail work done in the past few days.  All the deck panels are cut, the deck stringers are cut and fitted, the cockpit is installed, all the interior is epoxy coated, and seams are all taped.  I also got the tank compartment fitted and installed rod and anchor pin tubes.


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

This is how the shallow water anchor pin will work. It just goes right through the hull and into the bottom. No need for a fancy bracket. There will be a similar mount in one of the sponsons on the stern.


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

This shot shows the anchor pin and a rod mounted in the holders. The hatch is for access to mounting the grab bar. The cockpit drain plug took about 3 hrs to mount properly. More planning would have speeded things up. Notice the small motor in the background. It's for this boat. — in Yankeetown.


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

This view shows the flotation foam, and the general layout of fuel tank, grab bar reinforcement, etc. The foam is on both sides, and aft of the foam are storage/live well compartments.


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

The deck is all cut and in position. The aft hatch is for access to the gas tank.


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

Here's a side view.  Notice the slight deck crown,  only about 3/8 inch. It will take me a month to clean up the shop and put away all the tools when this boat is done.


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

The sponsons will also be filled with flotation foam, and one will have an anchor pin mount as on the bow.


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

The Fishmaster grab bar was just delivered. It's pretty nice for only $90 including shipping. Trial fit in this photo. It won't be bolted down until I launch the boat and check for the best fore/aft location for trim. I'll mount a gps/fishfinder on the bar and wire it internally to a small battery in the port storage comparment.


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

Final progress as of this morning.  Next step is to tape all seams on the deck, and then glass the whole hull.  What type and color paints should I order?


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## BAREFOOTFISHERMAN (Dec 13, 2012)

Really nice looking.We need more of these true Microskiffs.Also,did you nail the panels together and glass right over them?


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

I'm using a combination of clamps and Raptor composite brads to hold things together while the epoxy cures. I have discovered that the Raptor brads work just fine in my cheap Porter Cable brad nailer....no need to buy one of the $220 models. The brads are very, very handy.


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

The deck, cockpit and hull sides are glassed and ready for filling/fairing/painting.  I still haven't decided on a paint and color.  The girlie calendar in the background was part of the material that came with the grab bar.  My wife and mother-in-law found it and insisted I hang it in the shop.  Honest.


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

Trial fitting the motor.  The shaft is actually more like 18" instead of 15", so I'll probably need to raise the transom a little or else invest in a simple manual jack plate.


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## hostage1985 (Feb 27, 2011)

An interesting design and really nice work. Have you thought about putting a couple of knee braces on the forward side of the raised portion of the Transom?


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## Guest (Feb 9, 2013)

What do think your end cost will be to build this for just the Hull?

I was kind of shocked they were $$2650 for the basic model.


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

> What do think your end cost will be to build this for just the Hull?
> 
> I was kind of shocked they were $$2650 for the basic model.


This is a custom design, so you must be thinking of something else for $2650.  The materials cost is for 6 sheets of okoume ply, 3 gallons of epoxy, 15 yards of glass cloth, 100 yards of glass tape and a pound or two of filler.  Depending on where and what you buy, the total for materials comes to less than $1000.  You will spend more for a grab rail, hatches, pad eyes, and Raptor brads (if you choose to use them), but the additional cost for fittings is less than $300.  I've put in about 130 hours of labor to this point and the hull is ready for paint.  If you figure the cost of labor $2650 would be a hell of a deal for a similar boat.


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

> An interesting design and really nice work.  Have you thought about putting a couple of knee braces on the forward side of the raised portion of the Transom?


I've considered transom braces, but decided to try first without. 9.9 hp is not likely to load the transom too much.


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

First primer coat.  I decided on Interlux Brightside for the paint system.  The hull will be light gray, and the deck off-white.  Much sanding and painting to follow.


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

The first coat of paint went on today. Not quite a piano finish, but not bad for foam roller application. The color is hard to tell from this shot, but it's a sort of a pistachio gray. The deck will be off-white. Nothing too outrageous or offensive.


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

Now that the construction phase is ending, I can add things up to see how close I came to my cost goal.  Here's the report:
Ply - $547
epoxy - $164
glass tape - $57
glass cloth - $100
fillers - $15
stringer material - $58
Raptor brads - $18
paint - $120
Total for all materials - $1079

I missed the budget here by $79, and shipping and taxes were not included, nor was the cost of the reusable strong back or any tools I bought to use on the job.  If I used marine grade fir instead of okoume ply, epoxy floor paint instead of marine paint, and generally scrimped where possible, materials could cost more like $700 or $800.

Other items not included in the materials total include consumables like rollers, trays, frames, brushes, alcohol, and abrasives come to about $120.  Equipment and fittings such as hatches, grab bar, pad eyes, drain assembly, etc. add another $150 to $300, depending.

Bottom line, the economy model of this skiff could be built for less than $1000 for materials, consumables, and equipment.  If better materials and fittings are used, the bill will be more like $1500.  Use this information to justify building a new boat to your significant other.  "Honey, I can build it for less than $1000."  Just don't mention tax, shipping, and equipment.  BTW, I got a nice motor and a good trailer for exactly $1000 total.  I'm claiming an all up cost of $2500....not including tax, shipping, equipment, insurance, registration, and a few other minor details.


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

The boat is light enough that I was able to flip it and get it onto the trailer by myself (with the help of a chain hoist). The deck is sanded and epoxy flow coated, but it's still going to need paint. Too bad, because I like the wood look. The trailer looks ratty, but I got a good deal, and it has new tires, hubs and axle, and the lights work. I've removed them for now, and will mount them and side guides later.


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## oysterbreath (Jan 13, 2009)

AWESOME! You seem to have put that thing together quickly! You've put some of us slower builders to shame there! I think I'm into mine for about 675 hours. To be honest, I REALLY light that bright cap but I fully understand the need to paint it. Can't waite to hear a "on-the-water" report!


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

> AWESOME! You seem to have put that thing together quickly! You've put some of us slower builders to shame there! I think I'm into mine for about 675 hours. To be honest, I REALLY light that bright cap but I fully understand the need to paint it. Can't waite to hear a "on-the-water" report!


It's a lot less boat than the one you're building. I'm at about 140 hrs, and I think I have about 30 more to go. Hopefully it will be ready to launch next weekend.


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

I worked hard the past few days and got the deck painted.  Interlux Brightside is great paint, but the primer is a problem.  It's soluble in the thinner recommended for the paint.  Any thinner added to the first paint coat will lift the primer.  Not good!  Rigging the grab bar, hatches, battery and gps/ff wiring was actually pretty easy, compared to the hassle with the paint.  The motor is hung with the anti-cav plate just even with the top of the tunnel.  Here's a shot on the trailer, all rigged out and on the way to the launch.


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

Here's another shot on the trailer showing the transom and the light bar/tie down.  The lights are out of the water and I saved a few hundred over guide bars and pipe lights.  The trailer tows very nicely.


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

Here we are at the ramp.  It launched smoothly, and floated on its lines.


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

Here she is floating at the dock while I park the trailer.  No leaks so far.


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

Underway on the sea trial.  A full and detailed report will follow in the next days.  Suffice it to say I made it back alive.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Pretty dang sweet!


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## jeross (Jun 6, 2009)

That's got to be a pretty satisfying feeling! Congratulations on the sea trial!


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

Here's a shot of the anchor pin in action.  It works good from either the bow or stern location, but is a little quieter from the bow and more convenient from the stern.  The footprints show that it is possible to walk on the gunnels....but it is a small boat.


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

Returning from the first sea trial.  The water in this shot is about a foot deep.  I mounted a transom-mount transducer thru-hull right in front of the tunnel.  It's epoxied in, so it's lucky that it works well.  I never lost depth readout at any speed.


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

Showing off for the ramp-flies. My stylish outfit got many comments and fits right in here in Yankeetown.  The only two mods after this sea trial are to shorten the tiller about 6" and to lower the motor about a half inch.  I thought lots more would go wrong.


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

Motoring onto the trailer.


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

Home safe and sound.


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

In summary:

I've already reported on budget, and I missed by about 10% there, which is waaaay better than the government ever does. It runs and floats very shallow, shallow enough that I scared myself running over oyster bars, but I don't have any firm figures. I would guess that I met or came damn close to the 3" goal. Speedwise, the best I saw was 22mph, but I have considerable adjustment to do with motor height and trim, and I don't think the motor was running at max rpm. I think when I get through fiddling I will get 25+mph. I was very pleased with the way the hull performed. The slight deadrise makes it possible to steer just by shifting weight, and the boat pops right up on a plane without any squatting. It runs at a nice trim angle, and there's no sign of porpoising. The boat poles easily from the bow, which is what I intended. Standing on the narrow hull forward lifts the stern out of the water and gives a long, narrow waterline which is directionally stable and quiet. Standing at the stern there is hull slap, standing in the bow, absolutely none. It is a really small boat, which will take some getting used to, but for a first run, I'm very surprised that I didn't have way more trouble.


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## oysterbreath (Jan 13, 2009)

CONGRATS! Good to hear that sea trails were a success! Skiff looks real good! Do you have any anti slip added to your deck paint? Man, sad to hear that the interlux primer ain't fully compatable with teh paint thinner. That's down right WRONG! I used System three primer with my alexseal. I must say, althought it's a bit dark for a primer that stuff is otherwise AWESOME! NO issues with compatability at all!


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

I used Behr anti-skid compound in the paint, and it worked fine...just don't use too much. Next time I'll just skip primer and go with an extra coat of Interlux over an epoxy flo-coat.


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## Boatdesigner (Dec 9, 2009)

Nice job with the design and the build! I am right up the road a little ways in Citrus Springs, so I'll have to keep an eye out for you next time I am over your way!


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

Here's a thought: the Mercury 9.9 hp 2-stroke is exactly the same motor as the 15 hp model with the exception of the carburetor....hmmmmm.


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## Boatdesigner (Dec 9, 2009)

HMMMM . . . . Oyster beds and 30+mph standing up! Just how brave do you feel? :-/


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## GulfCoast (Jul 10, 2012)

yes in deed !!!! hell of a job capm' ! na get some fish slime on that boy for a proper christening ! haha God Bless


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

I got out today for some serious fishing.  Got into trout and a feeding frenzy of jack crevalle.  Beautiful weather to be on the water.


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

The boat is now officially fish-slimed.  Here' a few shots of some of the jack.


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

After running and fishing the boat for almost a month, I think it's time for a final report. I did bump the hp up to 15. On 9.9hp, top speed is about 22mph, hole shot is good, and handling is excellent. On 15hp, top speed is 25+, hole shot is instantaneous, and handling is excellent as well. The problem I'm running into is that it's hard to find a prop with high enough pitch to handle the 15hp. I need a good 9.25x13 pitch prop for a 15hp Evinrude, and they are hard to find unless I want to spend 20% of the build cost on one. With the right prop speeds might touch 30. A few things I really like about the boat: it runs and floats in nothing, it can be steered by simply shifting weight, there is no sign of porpoising, the thru hull anchor pin works amazingly well, the transponder glassed in just ahead of the tunnel never loses reading, there is no "stern squat" out of the hole, gets on plane in 6" to 8", it's easy to trail, launch and load, and it will run all day on a gallon of gas. Some things I don't like: it's a small boat, going forward to tie off to a dock can be tricky if you're in a hurry, no trolling motor means a lot more work for a solo fisherman. It's hard to pole and fish at the same time. There is some hull slap depending on wave direction. I should have used more non-skid on the deck. It gets slippery when really wet. The boat rides pretty hard when the chop comes up. 12 knots of breeze, and open water is no fun. All in all, it's been a pretty entertaining build. The skiff is a blast to run and gets a lot of interesting comments at the ramp. It's been so much fun that I've decided to go the next step up and build a two-man redfish tournament boat. Is that still a micro-skiff?  If so, see the "Bragging Spot" for more details.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Take your prop to a prop shop and have it made to what you want or have it cupped.


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

> Take your prop to a prop shop and have it made to what you want or have it cupped.


Yeah, that's the plan. I'm waiting until the 4-blade I have ordered arrives, then I'll send the old prop in to be re-pitched. The 4-blade may bring the rpm down enough and give a little better performance by reducing slip. We'll see.


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## BAREFOOTFISHERMAN (Dec 13, 2012)

IS THERE A WAY YOU COULD SEND ME THE PLANS YOU MADE UP.I WOULD LOVE TO BUILD ONE THIS SUMMER.THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME .THE BOAT LOOKS AWSOME


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## BAREFOOTFISHERMAN (Dec 13, 2012)

SORRY I FORGOT MY E-MAIL IS [email protected]


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

I could email a Sketchup file, but you would have to be able to use Sketchup to figure out how to build the boat. I don't have any building instructions and there are no plans on paper. The Sketchup file was done for my personal use, and I took a lot of drawing shortcuts because I knew what I had in mind. The file may be hard for someone else to use.

Also, I've now fished the boat pretty hard and I have some enhancements in mind. I'm working on an improved design, about the same length and weight, but incorporating a slightly different tunnel design, a built in release well and more beam give a little more room for the skipper to move around on deck and to accommodate heavier loads. There will also be more deadrise forward to give a better ride in chop.

Let me know what you think.


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## loud_by_design (Mar 21, 2013)

What would you do different with the tunnel. I was planning on building a micro skiff fairly similar to yours with a tunnel in the same shape. And what problems did you have with the tunnel


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

I haven't had any problems with the tunnel, I'm just thinking a so called "pocket" tunnel might be interesting to try. I'd like to see if it would give any better performance, either by reducing drag or else allowing the motor to run even higher. Finally, the tunnel in the original design had a lot of angles and close tolerance parts while a pocket tunnel is essentially a box and should be a little easier to fabricate.


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## thilltony (May 3, 2013)

Awesome build, Vertigo!

Thanks for taking us along for the ride.

-TH


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## cwalden (Jun 24, 2011)

I'm thinking of starting an Osprey 18 soon. I may try something like this first, just to warm up my skills. haha

I'll have to design mine on some graph paper with a ruler and a calculator though. I tried using sketch-up and another cad program back when I was designing an R/C ship. I never could get even the first line started.  I spent weeks trying to figure it out. I finally got frustrated and designed the thing on paper in a couple of days.


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