# New Beach Snook Stick



## Guest (May 31, 2016)

Back when there was time for snookin' on the beach took a #9 weight Orvis Trident for the winds, then dropped down to an #8 Loomis GL4 & finally went even lighter for those hot summer mornings with an Orvis Trident #6 weight which was overlined with a #WF-7-I. All were fished with WF-Intermediate fly lines to get below breaking surf waves even though floating lines were on xtra spools to fish ICW flats. Still haven't gotten the bamboo nor ultralight fly rods out for some fun yet, even though the only fish a faster fly rod would be preferred to cast with would be for Spanish or tarpon & really senseless casting to poons off the beach unless expecting a broken rod or sending a fly & fly line on a gulf vacation ! Cast a Sage Salt #8 which might compare with newer Loomis, but after 6 hours in the sun don't need much more than a wrist flip to put a fly in the trough.


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

IdontknowwhatImdoing said:


> Hello All,
> 
> I am looking to add a new rod specifically for targeting snook on the beach in SW Florida. I have pretty much come down to two rods, though I am open to new suggestions. From my research it looks like the 2 piece glx classic or the 4 piece glx crosscurrents, both in 6 weight, will work great. Unfortunately my local shop doesn't carry loomis rods so I am not able to test throw these. My main question is, has the glx classic become a bit dated now? I know it is a highly respected stick but there is a small price difference between the two and I know the crosscurrent is a much newer rod. What are the main differenced between the two and which would you prefer? I will be putting wulff triangle taper intermediate on it.
> 
> Thanks in advance!



Wow, what a handle! I'm hoping you are really someone new and not just a regular member who is just too embarrassed to ask the question himself, for fear that someone is going to point fingers and created some random alias. Which, of course, is really just silly and no reason to feel that way.

Nevertheless.....

Research is one thing. a GLX Cllassic is a specialized rod and you will either love it or not. So it's key to try them both. I personally love that particular rod (the 6wt GLX's )and back in the day, was considered one of the fastest rods in the industry. Very light, very thin and very fragile. But it's a sweetheart to throw if you know and perfer a fast action rod. It's primary purpose was to throw small light weight bonefish flies on fairly light breeze days, or better yet, totally calm summer days. Most of my better, more reliable snook flies for the beach is no bigger than a bonefish fly anyways. As a matter of fact, I've caught many snook on bonefish flies, since they imitate shrimp patterns anyways.

But as things progressed along, the original GLX rod from the '90's almost got phased out, just like it's junior rod, the IMX did, which was a slightly softer action and also a pleasure to throw. But they still had many request to continue producing the GLX's. So they kept a run of a few of the most requested line weights in that rod. The 6wt happen to be one of them. That being said, the rod still has a very fast action tip but lacks a lot of backbone. So in todays standards, So it's designed more for wide open grass or bonefish flats and the beach is also an ideal playground for that rod, especially on a calm day. That is one of the few rods that a real bonefish line is designed for, but can still handle a standard saltwater tapered line. It doesn't do so well with the heavier short head lines like a bermuda shorts, redfish line or some of the wind tamer lines. With a more progressive mid section than today's standards of a fast action rod, it's more of a finesse rod and not designed to horse a fish in or keep it out of the mangrove roots.. But that's great for beach fishing anyways since you have all the room in the world to finess a fish in on light tippet and bite leader like 20lb bite leader on 10lb tippet.

Writer and guide, Steve Gibson use to use a 4wt to beach snook fish. So using lighter rods are not out of the question. However, you do need to get them as quickly as possible, especially in the heat of the summer. So using good rod and fighting tactics is very important if you are going lighter For beach snook fishing I usually bring 2 rods with me. If it's calm, I'll start out with a 6wt. Remember, the primary times to beach snook fish is from 1st light till about an hour after sunrise. So that is usually the calmest time of the morning anyway, which works out good for a 6wt. Anytime after that, you might see them and see them everywhere, but they will be less likely to eat, especially when the beach goers come out. So by then anyway, the winds start to pick up and the fishing will shut down. If I start out and it's winder than I thought, then I'll put the 6wt back in the jeep and grab the 8wt. It's important to watch the wind forcast to know weather or not to bring the 6wt. If it's breezy, then I'll leave the 6wt at home and replace it with a 9wt, in case the 8wt doesn't cut it.

It's extremely important to buy or tie up flys that are designed for that 6wt GLX (or 6wts in general). Those flies are typically smaller and lighter than something you would use on a 8wt. If someone asked me what is the ideal fly for a 6wt, I would say a #4 hook with bead chain eyes, if any. You could even go down to a size #6 hook but but no bigger than a #2. If you had to use lead eyes, than a size extra small dumbbell eyes would be the heaviest, but even then, the Classic GLX will not like it much, nor will a bonefish line.

So the Classic 6wt GLX is more specialized for small bonefish, small beach snook on the beach, not in ripping current in the passes. It doesn't like intermediate lines, tho you might be able to get away with a clear intermediate tip line. It doesn't like heavy, bulky flies. It's not designed to fish structure like docks and rocks and is not a good back country mangrove fishing rod, or a boat rod to fish deeper waters, especially for bigger fish. Just doesn't have the backbone for it. It needs more area to load the rod and is not a short distance throwing rod. However, its a very sweet rod for finess fishing beach snook, ladyfish, small jacks, sea trout, etc.

On the flip side of the coin. The GLX Cross Current is a fast rod with just a touch slower tip (not quite as fast in the tip) but a stiffer mid section and a beefier butt section. It's more of an all around rod than the classic GLX. It will handle heavier lines, throw slightly bigger and heavier flies (well in the case of a weighted fly like a clouser with Ex Sm lead eyes (which is max), the CC will handle it better than the classic). With a heavier line like a clear sink tipe, a clear intermediate line or a heavier hear floater like a Rio Redfish or a Airflo Bruce Chard Tropical punch, it will load quicker and therefore, with the beefier butt section, would be more of an all around rod and could also be used for light mangrove fishing if need be. So the CC GLX will handle bigger fish and get em in a little quicker.

So the 2 rods have 2 slightly different feel to them and avantages. The CC will travel better. If I only wanted a 6wt rod for only beach snookin, then for me, I would choose the Classic GLX. But if I was going to only own one 6wt for all around 6wt use, then I would lean towards the CC GLX.

Personally, I recommend throwing both rods with 2 different lines (a bonefish line and a redfish line), Like a standard or bonefish line and a short head, before you make your decisions and try casting it on a pond or water of some kind.

Remember, beach fishing is not necessarily a total distance thing. I've hooked and caught plenty of snook just a few rod lengths away. Just saying.

IF, you think you like one over the other, then I could give you a list of other rods to compare to each of those, just in case you are not totally satisfied with how the better of the two, feel. Also by changing lines you can change how the rod feels. So that can be looked at a little closer.

Ted Haas

Dang, I should get paid for this kind of help!


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## IdontknowwhatImdoing (May 20, 2016)

Backwater said:


> Wow, what a handle! I'm hoping you are really someone new and not just a regular member who is just too embarrassed to ask the question himself, for fear that someone is going to point fingers and created some random alias. Which, of course, is really just silly and no reason to feel that way.
> 
> Nevertheless.....
> 
> ...


I am indeed a new member here. I have been a lurker for quote some time but figured it was time to create an account and that handle was the first thing that came to mind haha.

Good grief that is a ton of great info. Thank you very much for all of that. So it sounds like to me that it comes down to what I want this rod to do. I was planning on getting this rod strictly for beach snook fishing but the glx classic seems a tad limited to just that, and only in non windy conditions. I do like the thinness and lightness of the classic but if the winds pick up I don't want to be SOL. But I guess I could just bring the 8wt with me for this instances. I also would prefer the BTT intermediate line. Would that not pair well with the glx classic? If not, what would you recommend for it?


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## sjrobin (Jul 13, 2015)

You might try a ten ft GLX Loomis rod for the beach to help keep your back cast off the sand slope. I have a ten ft GLX classic 6wt that I like a lot for shore fishing/wading. I am new to 6wts however. I went from none to three in the last few months and they are all a little different like Ted describes. Bonefish line and redfish lines for different rods.


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## Shadowcast (Feb 26, 2008)

IdontknowwhatImdoing said:


> I am indeed a new member here. I have been a lurker for quote some time but figured it was time to create an account and that handle was the first thing that came to mind haha.
> 
> Good grief that is a ton of great info. Thank you very much for all of that. So it sounds like to me that it comes down to what I want this rod to do. I was planning on getting this rod strictly for beach snook fishing but the glx classic seems a tad limited to just that, and only in non windy conditions. I do like the thinness and lightness of the classic but if the winds pick up I don't want to be SOL. But I guess I could just bring the 8wt with me for this instances. I also would prefer the BTT intermediate line. Would that not pair well with the glx classic? If not, what would you recommend for it?


Here is another spin to the great information that you have already received. I use a 6 wt. exclusively for everything from snook on the beach, to reds on the flats, trout on the flats, and juvy poons in their little hiding places. A 6 wt. is great all around stick for when the conditions allow. My 8 wt. has been relegated to topwater flies around mangroves and night time dock duty...or if the wind is up. I throw one of the new Allen Fly Fishing Icon II rods for my 6 wt. It is a great rod (for me) that casts really well with a longer bellied line. Right now I'm using a Royal Wulff Triangle Taper floating line and I love it on that rod. I know some people swear by an intermediate line for beach snook, but I find with an all FC tippet and a slightly weighted fly, I am able to get the fly down in their face pretty well. Typically along the surf there is some turbidity in the water so the most delicate of presentations is not always needed....and on a higher tide along the beach, they are usually right in the surf line in about a foot or less. I find if I can put the fly on an intercept point with the snook, create a competitive strike situation, and when they are eating, I'll get a bite....even with a simple tippet set up (30# to 20# to 14# then a 30# bite.....sometimes I will just use a 30# to 20# if the bite is tough to get). My point to all this is whatever rod you get, why not set it up to perform multiple duties...unless you get a spare spool with the intermediate and one for a floating line. Regardless of what you do, try out as many rods as you can with various lines. For a 6 wt. whether you throw at beach snook, reds, or trout, you will probably throwing a smaller sized fly. Your bonefish tapered lines or longer bellied lines will probably fit that bill much better than say a short bellied redfish taper. Good luck in your search.


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

IdontknowwhatImdoing said:


> I am indeed a new member here. I have been a lurker for quote some time but figured it was time to create an account and that handle was the first thing that came to mind haha.
> 
> Good grief that is a ton of great info. Thank you very much for all of that. So it sounds like to me that it comes down to what I want this rod to do. I was planning on getting this rod strictly for beach snook fishing but the glx classic seems a tad limited to just that, and only in non windy conditions. I do like the thinness and lightness of the classic but if the winds pick up I don't want to be SOL. But I guess I could just bring the 8wt with me for this instances. I also would prefer the BTT intermediate line. Would that not pair well with the glx classic? If not, what would you recommend for it?


There is no reason you have to stick only with an intermediate line. Like what Shadowcast said, many early a.m. snook (no "s" on snook being plural, just like there is none for shrimp (hate it when people say "snooks and shrimps)) will run the surf break like bonefish working a break. At that point, I usually consider them and fish them just line bonefish. So a floater will work. Just don't show them the fly line and really lead the fish and wait for them to come close to them before you start moving it. If you see them following it, then pick up the pace and that will cause them to lunge at it. Those particular fish I'm throwing unweighted flies or flies with bead chain eyes. I'll only use an all fluorocarbon leader system and go a little longer then normal (maybe 10-12ft total length) since not only do I want it to be extremely stealthy, but I want it to sink just a bit, hence the reason you don't necessarily need an intermediate line. The fish out further, once the sun comes up some will require a fly to get down to them at eye level, and typically slightly bigger flies. So you can bring your 8wt rigged for that, as well as wind cutting. If the wind is up from the west, then the waves will pick up and cause the snook to stay out a little further.

On stealth mode, there is no reason you can't drop down to a 10-12lb tippet and out at least 2ft long and I'll generally go out to 3ft long. I'll also use a short 12" +/- bite leader, starting out with 20lb FC and then is the fish are running bigger, water is a little cloudier, lots of cloud cover or you are throwing deeper, then you can get away with 30lb and slightly longer bite leader and can even shorten your tippet to 2ft. If you are fearful that your tippet is too light in that situation, then 15lb FC tippet is max I'll go.

Oh Btw, remember, that the Classic GLX is still a fast rod and will cut wind better than a slower rod. It was made for that. But the CC GLX is more of an all around rod if you were only going to have one 6wt. But cast them both. If you are new to fly casting, then both of these rods might not work for you since it takes a season caster to pull out the benefits of those rods. Otherwise, you might not like either.

How long have you've been fly fishing (casting)? That will be a big determination on what will work best for you.

sjrobin - We don't have much in the way of sand dunes and our beaches over here are typically flt for the most part and beach fishing for snook doesn't involve any wading.

Btw IdontknowwhatImdoing (I have to chuckle with that name, yer gonna have to change it soon! ) - you will need a good stripping basket of some kind to be any good with it. Not having one will cause sand to stick all over your line, which will hinder it's ability to cast well. Also the surf rolling over will suck your loose fly line in and twist it around itself, cause you to swear while trying to get the tangles out of your fly line and therefore, keep you from casting at fish as they swim by.

Shadowcast - I wouldn't throw your 6wt at docks. That's a good way to break it. I've seen too many people break them trying to stop a good fish from going into the pilings. With the beach and flats? Yea, they've got all the room in the world to run and not hang you up and with the right drag, you can finess them in. That's what that rod was designed to do in saltwater. It's also my go-to bass rod.

Ted Haas


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## Shadowcast (Feb 26, 2008)

Backwater said:


> Shadowcast - I wouldn't throw your 6wt at docks. That's a good way to break it. I've seen too many people break them trying to stop a good fish from going into the pilings. With the beach and flats? Yea, they've got all the room in the world to run and not hang you up and with the right drag, you can finess them in. That's what that rod was designed to do in saltwater.


I don't. That is why I said my 8 wt. is relegated to mangrove and dock work and my 6 does the rest when conditions allow.


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## IdontknowwhatImdoing (May 20, 2016)

Backwater said:


> There is no reason you have to stick only with an intermediate line. Like what Shadowcast said, many early a.m. snook (no "s" on snook being plural, just like there is none for shrimp (hate it when people say "snooks and shrimps)) will run the surf break like bonefish working a break. At that point, I usually consider them and fish them just line bonefish. So a floater will work. Just don't show them the fly line and really lead the fish and wait for them to come close to them before you start moving it. If you see them following it, then pick up the pace and that will cause them to lunge at it. Those particular fish I'm throwing unweighted flies or flies with bead chain eyes. I'll only use an all fluorocarbon leader system and go a little longer then normal (maybe 10-12ft total length) since not only do I want it to be extremely stealthy, but I want it to sink just a bit, hence the reason you don't necessarily need an intermediate line. The fish out further, once the sun comes up some will require a fly to get down to them at eye level, and typically slightly bigger flies. So you can bring your 8wt rigged for that, as well as wind cutting. If the wind is up from the west, then the waves will pick up and cause the snook to stay out a little further.
> 
> On stealth mode, there is no reason you can't drop down to a 10-12lb tippet and out at least 2ft long and I'll generally go out to 3ft long. I'll also use a short 12" +/- bite leader, starting out with 20lb FC and then is the fish are running bigger, water is a little cloudier, lots of cloud cover or you are throwing deeper, then you can get away with 30lb and slightly longer bite leader and can even shorten your tippet to 2ft. If you are fearful that your tippet is too light in that situation, then 15lb FC tippet is max I'll go.
> 
> ...



I have not considered using floating line and just using a longer fluorocarbon leader to let it sink a bit more. That is a great idea. Would you use a bonefish taper on the classic and a more aggressive redfish taper on the crosscurrent?

I have been fly fishing for about 2-3 years now. I fish both saltwater in sw florida and for trout in the north georgia mountains. The only saltwater rod I have now is the 8 weight which I use for all of my inshore fishing. I do a decent amount of beach snook fishing and figured a 6 weight would be perfect for that. I am open to other suggestions. I have considered the bvk 6 wt but I don't like the fact that they break so often.

Haha if I come up with something better I will be sure to change it!


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

IdontknowwhatImdoing said:


> I have not considered using floating line and just using a longer fluorocarbon leader to let it sink a bit more. That is a great idea. Would you use a bonefish taper on the classic and a more aggressive redfish taper on the crosscurrent?
> 
> I have been fly fishing for about 2-3 years now. I fish both saltwater in sw florida and for trout in the north georgia mountains. The only saltwater rod I have now is the 8 weight which I use for all of my inshore fishing. I do a decent amount of beach snook fishing and figured a 6 weight would be perfect for that. I am open to other suggestions. I have considered the bvk 6 wt but I don't like the fact that they break so often.
> 
> Haha if I come up with something better I will be sure to change it!


What is your current 8wt? 

A 6wt BVK would be another option for you. They break as easy as the GLX Classics do!  Aside for not paying attention to how you are handling the rod, weighted clousers can be the devil on any rod. But beach fishing is somewhat free from rod breakage problems.


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## IdontknowwhatImdoing (May 20, 2016)

Backwater said:


> What is your current 8wt?
> 
> A 6wt BVK would be another option for you. They break as easy as the GLX Classics do!  Aside for not paying attention to how you are handling the rod, weighted clousers can be the devil on any rod. But beach fishing is somewhat free from rod breakage problems.


Haha I am sure I could find a way to break one beach fishing. My current 8 weight is a sage motive with SA bonefish line. It is the rod I learned to throw on. In comparison it feels a bit beefier and maybe a tad slower to other rods I have thrown. I like the fast feel and action of the bvk's and sage one's


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## IdontknowwhatImdoing (May 20, 2016)

sjrobin said:


> You might try a ten ft GLX Loomis rod for the beach to help keep your back cast off the sand slope. I have a ten ft GLX classic 6wt that I like a lot for shore fishing/wading. I am new to 6wts however. I went from none to three in the last few months and they are all a little different like Ted describes. Bonefish line and redfish lines for different rods.


I have been wanting one for a while but your thread really gave me the itch.


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

Shadowcast said:


> I don't. That is why I said my 8 wt. is relegated to mangrove and dock work and my 6 does the rest when conditions allow.


Oh ok, sorry, my bad. I miss read that.


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

IdontknowwhatImdoing said:


> Haha I am sure I could find a way to break one beach fishing. My current 8 weight is a sage motive with SA bonefish line. It is the rod I learned to throw on. In comparison it feels a bit beefier and maybe a tad slower to other rods I have thrown. I like the fast feel and action of the bvk's and sage one's


So the fast rods will be a completely different feeling than the Motive. I've thrown that in an 8wt and not sure what all the hype was about the rod. However, a 6wt wt in general is naturally going to be a more progressive action (slower) than an 8wt. I believe Lehrs Economy Tackle in N.Ft Myers are still a Loomis dealer. That's where I bought my 1st Loomis back eons ago. So see if they have both and then see if BPS has the 6wt BVK in stock and try that out as well.


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## millerrep (Apr 14, 2014)

I just went 8wt for the east coast beach snook. I have a softer 7 wt but 10 mph wind shuts it down. Also have an entry level 9 works ok but it wares me out. One today prehistoric snook, on the 8, great fun, 4 runs, outside jumps, 10 minutes, but wore the 20 flouro trrough.


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

millerrep said:


> I just went 8wt for the east coast beach snook. I have a softer 7 wt but 10 mph wind shuts it down. Also have an entry level 9 works ok but it wares me out. One today prehistoric snook, on the 8, great fun, 4 runs, outside jumps, 10 minutes, but wore the 20 flouro trrough.


No doubt those east coast beach snook naturally run much bigger than our west coast, run of the mill beach snook. An 8wt is definitely the rod of choice over there and I would only use 30lb fluoro minimum bite leader for those fish.


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## millerrep (Apr 14, 2014)

Backwater said:


> No doubt those east coast beach snook naturally run much bigger than our west coast, run of the mill beach snook. An 8wt is definitely the rod of choice over there and I would only use 30lb fluoro minimum bite leader for those fish.


Do you use 30" of 30 lb tied to a 20 lb taper leader.. Don't know the term bite leader.


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

Bite leader is the last piece of leader before your fly. IGFA regs are 12" max. Since you may not care about that, you can go up to 18" - 20" to re-tie frayed leader near your fly or to change out flies. I think going longer runs a risk of not being stealthy. You can add a new one on after it's been clipped down to about 6". This is called the "bite" or "shock" tippet or leader. I'll use fluorocarbon for beach snook.

Next comes the tippet, which is tied to the "bite leader." This is usually the thinnest and thereby the weakest link in the total leader system. It's also known as the "fuse" to keep from breaking a rod, flyline and also the part that gives the fish a sporting chance. For beach snook, I'll use 10-15lb test (usually fluorocarbon). So IGFA says a min of 15". I typically use 2ft.

The rest of the leader system is called the butt section. That is the tapered part of the leader.

You can do a search on this fly fishing forum on Microskiff about how to build your own taper butt leaders, according to your rod/line weights.

Ted


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## millerrep (Apr 14, 2014)

Backwater said:


> Bite leader is the last piece of leader before your fly. IGFA regs are 12" max. Since you may not care about that, you can go up to 18" - 20" to re-tie frayed leader near your fly or to change out flies. I think going longer runs a risk of not being stealthy. You can add a new one on after it's been clipped down to about 6". This is called the "bite" or "shock" tippet or leader. I'll use fluorocarbon for beach snook.
> 
> Next comes the tippet, which is tied to the "bite leader." This is usually the thinnest and thereby the weakest link in the total leader system. It's also known as the "fuse" to keep from breaking a rod, flyline and also the part that gives the fish a sporting chance. For beach snook, I'll use 10-15lb test (usually fluorocarbon). So IGFA says a min of 15". I typically use 2ft.
> 
> ...


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## millerrep (Apr 14, 2014)

A few cHewed though the 30 lb bite leader, got four to the beach, biggest measured 38 in.


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