# 15' Cherokee rot repair



## Homemadexj (Nov 3, 2011)

I decided to go ahead and remove the center console to see how far the rot went. with the size of hole and considering it's probably been that way since he got it, i knew it wasn't gonna be pretty. Two of the five screws holding the console to the piece of plywood floor were stripped so I just lifted the console up and and part of the floor came with it.


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## Homemadexj (Nov 3, 2011)

So at this point I've decided to replace the whole floor and the three stringers.

















Turns out the last expert that "fixed" the floor cut out the middle of the original floor and just laid down an old sign and laid some glass over it without any prep. I could pretty much just lift the floor right out.
























Within about an hour of work I have the boat to this point.


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## Homemadexj (Nov 3, 2011)

Now I have to pick up some supplies and get to grinding. Going to pick up a new respirator and a few of the disposable suits to keep the dust off and out of me.
My plan is to keep this build as cheap as possible. I'm going to use pressure treated wood and polyester resin. I will probably pick up the glass at Marine Surplus since it's the closest place and they normally have good prices.
I may laminate plywood together for the center stringer and use 2x4 for the outer two stringers. 1.5oz mat and 1708 biax will be used on the stringers and the floor.
The front deck will also be replaced and will be level with the gunnels and probably come back 5'.


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## beyondhelp (Nov 6, 2008)

I'm no expert. Just ask anyone. But, I am almost positive there will be issues getting the resin to stick to the pressure treated wood. 

I like the laminated stringer idea, I will probably go that route next time. 

I used poly resin and I am happy with the results except where I "broke the rules" and did stuff you shouldn't. Mainly, poorly sealed screw holes. I am not surprised I have rot in those areas.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Treated and poly is not a good mix. Pine 2x4's is not the best choice as the board will rot away and the plywood laminate may do the same. However, when you build stringers it is what is OVER the form and not what is inside it. You can use nearly anything you want to build the form that you need and then cover it in a good laminate of glass. It is this covering that is really the stringer - but on the otherhand you don't necessarily want the inner form to disintigrate.

Your best option for price would be to buy marine ply and construct all from this.


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## Homemadexj (Nov 3, 2011)

What would be better using regular plywood or pt? I'm going for cheap. doesn't have to last 20 years just a few years of abuse by my 10-15 year old cousins to get started. They were planning to use the boat how it was with mud as stringers and the floor falling in.

I got a little more work done on the hull this afternoon. Cut some more of the original floor out and started doing a little grindin' just for fun..lol. Used a circular saw, sawzall, and an angle grinder with a 50 grit sanding disc. Anyone have and other tools they like to use for this type of work?
The disposable suit I bought at Lowes is working awesome. Should have got one of these when I started my first fiberglass project. Didn't think about that stuff when I was 16.
Anyways here's a few pic's of progress.
































This is the worn out 40 Yamaha hanging off the back..


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Cheap - use blue foam insulation board. Real easy to shape. Can't apply poly directly to it - it will dissolve. Can coat it with epoxy and then use poly. The foam will not hold a screw if you intend to screw something down

If you use wood, one note is you must avoid a "hard spot". A hard spot is where the hull flexes and comes in contact with the "wood" that does not flex. This will eventually flex a tear in your hull. Bedding material is used for processes like this. 

*These are not the best way to do the job and I do not advise these methods*

Poly and regular plywood is better than treated. Better wood is marine. From the looks of it you would not spend a whole lot more on marine vs. Lowes plywood. Poly and wood are not the best of friends in the first place. If you choose this route you will eventually redo your boat.

Wood and epoxy are far superior.


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## Homemadexj (Nov 3, 2011)

Thanks DuckNut. If I could afford it I wouldn't use wood on a boat but it's not mine and to tell ya the truth my relatives that own it would of been happy with a piece of plywood screwed over the hole in the floor. I'm just doing this to be nice and gain some more experience. I thought about using some kind of foam and focusing more on the glass work. I'm not certain on anything yet, have alot more prep to go anyways.

If I do end up using wood for the stringer, I thought that I would cut the wood to fit the hull, put a layer of glass on it and then use something like cabosil to kind of bed the piece in. Then run a fillet down each side for the next layers of glass to lay in better. Not sure if thats the right method but it should work. After that I was thinking 1/2" 
plywood glassed on the bottom and set with cabosil on the stringers and then glass the complete floor in.


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## jms (Apr 21, 2011)

> Thanks DuckNut. If I could afford it I wouldn't use wood on a boat but it's not mine and to tell ya the truth my relatives that own it would of been happy with a piece of plywood screwed over the hole in the floor. I'm just doing this to be nice and gain some more experience. I thought about using some kind of foam and focusing more on the glass work. I'm not certain on anything yet, have alot more prep to go anyways.
> 
> If I do end up using wood for the stringer, I thought that I would cut the wood to fit the hull, put a layer of glass on it and then use something like cabosil to kind of bed the piece in. Then run a fillet down each side for the next layers of glass to lay in better. Not sure if thats the right method but it should work. After that I was thinking 1/2"
> plywood glassed on the bottom and set with cabosil on the stringers and then glass the complete floor in.



i'm thinkin' mabey you should reconsider this choice as well...


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## Homemadexj (Nov 3, 2011)

Well I've been working on this boat a few hours a week for a while now. Mostly just alot of grinding, cleaning dust, and grinding some more. 

Got the front deck off..









Getting grinding done a little at a time.


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## Homemadexj (Nov 3, 2011)

Removed the rest of the floor and also took out the stringer.









I think that I kinda got lucky because the wood from the stringer wasn't totally gone. I'm going to use what's left to help make the new one.


























I also picked up some supplies to get started, 2gals resin, 10yrds of 1708 glass, some fumed silica and a few other things.
I got the stuff at a place that used to be Fiberglass Services but now it's called Fiberlay, terrible customer service, the guy at the counter was a real jerk. Eventually once I got fed up and gave him hell he did help me out with the price though.


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## Homemadexj (Nov 3, 2011)

Yesterday I got to work on making the stringer. I traced the old stringer out onto some construction paper and then onto the plywood. I am using 2 layers of 11/32" BC grade plywood sandwiching 2 layers of 1808 with the mat facing out.










Once I had the wood cut to fit, I cut out my glass with about 1/2" extra around the pieces.









Then I mixed up a quart and a half of resin and went to town. I laid down some wax paper so I wouldn't make a mess. I weighed down the piece with some 1x2's and some concrete blocks.


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## Homemadexj (Nov 3, 2011)

Got my stringer glued together a couple weeks ago, looks pretty good.









I've been grinding some more and trying to straight up the rub rail area on the bow. It was pretty beat up.


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## Homemadexj (Nov 3, 2011)

I've started laying some glass into the hull. I'm kinda doing one side at a time and so far I did a 12" wide strip of the 1708.

















Next I've cut the glass that goes from the center out to overlap what I already have in.


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## Homemadexj (Nov 3, 2011)

Got the next bit of glass in. Took about 2 1/2qts and was pretty tough to do by myself but I'm pretty happy with it. There may be a few bubbles here and there I may have to grind out but it looked good last night. 
Here's a few crappy pics...


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## Homemadexj (Nov 3, 2011)

I took a break from this project for a while but have started getting back into it. I put in a layer of 1708 down on the whole area I'm working on. Got the stringer in and still need to cap it.










tabbed it in with a strip of 1.5oz csm and a small fillet of peanut butter mix.


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## Homemadexj (Nov 3, 2011)

I followed up the mat with 2 layers of 1708. The first layer went half way up the stringer and about 6"-8" out and the second layer went all the way up and between 8"-12" out. The stringer is pretty much a copy of the original.


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## Homemadexj (Nov 3, 2011)

I've been working on a console I was given for the last few days. Toying with trying to pull a mold off it once I have the holes filled in and smoothed out.


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## Homemadexj (Nov 3, 2011)

Got the stringer capped with one layer 1708 and one layer 1.5oz chop. added some small stiffeners and got most of the floor cut out.







Got a layer of 1.5oz kickin on the bottom.


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## CurtisWright (May 9, 2012)

> Now I have to pick up some supplies and get to grinding. Going to pick up a new respirator and a few of the disposable suits to keep the dust off and out of me.
> My plan is to keep this build as cheap as possible. I'm going to use pressure treated wood and polyester resin. I will probably pick up the glass at Marine Surplus since it's the closest place and they normally have good prices.
> I may laminate plywood together for the center stringer and use 2x4 for the outer two stringers. 1.5oz mat and 1708 biax will be used on the stringers and the floor.
> The front deck will also be replaced and will be level with the gunnels and probably come back 5'.



You can probably get a betterprice at a boat repair shop. Bring a 5Gal bucket with a lid and they will sell it to you out of their drums. Sould only pay about 25$/gal for it.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

You do not need to put glass on the underside. It serves no purpose with wood. Waste of glass and money.

If you use the 1708, skip the mat. Lay the floor and then lay the 1708 and cut to fit. Then fold it back and wet the wood and then flop it back in place, repeat other side. Finish wetting it out and the floor will have a built in non-skid.

2x4's is way too big and way too heavy. Cut pieces of the plywood you already have.


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## Homemadexj (Nov 3, 2011)

thanks for the ideas. I used 2 layers of 11/32" exterior grade ply wood that sandwiched 2 layers of 1808 to build the stringer. I glassed in the stringer with a 4" strip of 1.5oz then 8" of 1708 and finally about 16" of 1708. i capped the stringer with 1708 followed by 1.5oz csm. I used a router to round over the top of the stringer before glassing.

I've been getting materials from FGCI in St Pete. about $100/5gals of resin. the best prive i can get other than going through someone with an account.


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## Homemadexj (Nov 3, 2011)

I have around a .5"+- groove to fill on either side of the deck plywood before I glass it down. I;m wandering if it would be alright to use a mix of peanut butter/.5" chopped roving mix and then put my glass over that.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

FGCI has glass fiber strand designed as a fill, comes in a small bucket with a lid.

Mix that with the resin and mix it well and let it sit a while and the binders will dissolve and the glass will shred, then add MEKP and get to work. Then cover with glass.


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## Homemadexj (Nov 3, 2011)

Got my chase tubes cut to fit. One will go all the way to the front for livewell hose, some wiring, and possibly fuel line. The other tube will go to the console for hopefully everything except for steering cable which will stay on the floor.





Any tips on securing the tubes? Was thinking maybe some strips of glass every foot or so but not sure..


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## Homemadexj (Nov 3, 2011)

Getting some work done with this boat project. The floor is in and started to paint. Also building a new console out of plywood and 2x4's using west sytem epoxy. Also used epoxy at the end of the floor to bulkhead joint and around the drains. Will post of some pics...


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## Homemadexj (Nov 3, 2011)




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## Homemadexj (Nov 3, 2011)

Using Rustoleum topside gloss white.


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## Homemadexj (Nov 3, 2011)

Glassed the console with 6oz cloth, no pics yet


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## Homemadexj (Nov 3, 2011)

console is all glassed up.


glued in an extra layer of plywood for the helm/dash area.


got a coat of rustoleum topside primer on also.


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## Homemadexj (Nov 3, 2011)

did some painting in the boat. still need one more coat of the gray.


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## jdpber1 (Aug 21, 2013)

looking good..


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## Homemadexj (Nov 3, 2011)

getting very close to finishing this project, it's dragged on far too long...lol like all boat projects i guess.
I have started the front deck and got the console in and rigged up. I need to tab in the front deck and get it painted.

A few pic...


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## Homemadexj (Nov 3, 2011)

For the frame work of the front deck I used regular old 2x4's screwed together and glued with PL premium adhesive. I then coated it all with epoxy and glued and screwed down the plywood deck. I've been using BC exterior grade ply from lowes. I've removed the screws from the deck and put a couple coats of epoxy on. planning to tab in the edges with glass, thickend epoxy in the gaps, and paint it..


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## Gramps (Nov 1, 2007)

Looking good Clayton. Are you planing to glass the entire front deck or just the edges? I'd go with some glass to provide abrasion resistance.


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## Homemadexj (Nov 3, 2011)

Thanks Gramps, I had planned on some 6oz cloth for the deck but I don't have much epoxy left. I was hoping to get away with just epoxy and paint for awhile. The boat will be a first boat for my younger cousins to learn to fish on. This is pretty much a charity effort for me at this point and I just need to get it done so I can have time to take out my boat ;D . Do you think this will get by for a couple years? The boat probably won't see a ton of use anyways and it could be sanded down and glassed later if it starts to wear through..


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## Homemadexj (Nov 3, 2011)

Finally completed my front deck. 
tabbed it in with some 1708 and then 6oz cloth on the whole top.


Got it primed and the first coat of paint and non skid.


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## cutrunner (Jun 8, 2010)

It will probably last another 20 years as long as every fastner is sealed


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## cgildea (Nov 25, 2013)

can you post a picture of how you braced under the front deck? im doing the exact same thing to a 15ft tri hull but I planned on using 1x4's vertical on the lip that runs around the edge to raise it. I also plan on adding a full bulkhead though. how much resin did it take you? my deck is 60 deep and about 62 wide.


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## Homemadexj (Nov 3, 2011)

> can you post a picture of how you braced under the front deck? im doing the exact same thing to a 15ft tri hull but I planned on using 1x4's vertical on the lip that runs around the edge to raise it. I also plan on adding a full bulkhead though. how much resin did it take you? my deck is 60 deep and about 62 wide.


Yeah I Just Saw Your Post, Will Get A Pic Later Today.


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## cgildea (Nov 25, 2013)

thank you very much. this is exactly what ive been looking for. I cant wait to get started on mine


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## Homemadexj (Nov 3, 2011)

Here is a picture of under the deck. Hope it's enough to give you an idea. I planned on making it level with the hull sides but it worked out better to let it rest on the step out in the hull.

As for resin, it depends on how much you want to glass. If you're using polyester I would just buy a gallon and go from there. I used west systems epoxy on it and glassed the top side with 6oz cloth and 1708 on the edges. I only epoxy coated underneath. I used around a quart probably. Also I used PL Premium adhesive and screws to build and place the frame which saved on the amount of epoxy.


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## cgildea (Nov 25, 2013)

yes that is pretty much just what i needed. how did you attach the 2x4s to the side of the hull? i plan on using 1x4s along the lip then 1x4 or 1x2 down the center for support. im grting 5 gallons of resim but im using poly so i have to use csm which is going to eat alot of resin up. how many layers of 1708 didyou use to tab it in?


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## Homemadexj (Nov 3, 2011)

I think I only used one layer to tab it in plus thickend epoxy fillets. 1x's would probably work but if you plan on glassing them it will be hard to wrap around something that thin.


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## Homemadexj (Nov 3, 2011)

Took it for a little test last Sunday. Motor runs great but I did have to replace the water pump and tstat.


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## cgildea (Nov 25, 2013)

Did you use peanut butter epoxy to secure the 2x4's to the side of the hull? boat looks great man! great job!


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## Homemadexj (Nov 3, 2011)

I used the pl adhesive to secure the 2x4's and peanut butter and 1/2" fiber mix on the plywood to hull joint.


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## cgildea (Nov 25, 2013)

how many gallons of resin did you end up using for everything you did?


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## Homemadexj (Nov 3, 2011)

It's hard to say really because I keep trying to forget how much I've spend on this thing lol.. but I would estimate 10-15 gallons. I was buying a couple gallons at a time for a while then bought a 5 gal bucket and 3 more gallon pails after that. It will really depend on what you plan to do. If you use wood, it has good strength and doesn't nee as much glass. If you use honeycomb or something weak you need to make up the strength with more glass. If you haven't yet, post up your boat and what you would like to do. I think everyone likes to see new project boats.


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## Homemadexj (Nov 3, 2011)

neve rmind about poting your boat. just did a search and found it.


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