# Leading Skiffologists Say There Is NO End In Sight... CF17.5T



## jglidden

Yes, another CF build thread! When will it end?!!?? I have joined the Conchfish Armada, the Morejohn Minions, the Homebuild Heritics..

I was not planning on posting a build thread because I felt I had no real value or knowledge to contribute BUT I quickly realized that I could help future builders out by sharing my dumb mistakes. First lesson learned: A router with a circular bitt can not cut a 90 deg corner. 

Big thanks to guys like @Boatbrains @Sublime and even @DuckNut for advice and help already.

Huge thanks to guys like Seth, Travis, and Bryson for well documented build threads full of priceless information.

I bought prints from CM a few months ago and have been over thinking, under thinking, and everything in between since then. The hull will be the 17.5 Tunnel. Only thing different from the plans I received from CM is that I offset the spray rails outboard from the widest point and tapered fwd and aft in increments of 0.25" at each station. My employer is awesome enough to let me build this "employee funded research project" at our production facility in South Georgia and use the facilities such as the CNC router, paint booth, mold shop, and others. 

The jig (strongback) was constructed about two weeks ago and I have been hitting it hard this past week with the fiancee being out of town. The stations are up, chines cut, and a few foam pieces cut. I am just afraid to actually fix anything to the stations yet. 

Below are some pictures of the progress so far and my cad designs fabricated from the station drawings I received from CM and company. 















































First of many questions: Best kind of tape to use on the stations and sheer flange?


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## Sublime

I used regular clear packing tape on my flange. I have found that you can put your razor point in big globs of dried gorilla glue and easily flick it off.

Congrats on the build. Your tunnel will draw much interest.


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## bryson

Looks good man! What foam did you choose, and what's the material for the chines? Any reason you cut the keel short?


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## Sethsawyer

I used masking tape. My tape didn’t want to stick well until I wiped all the sawdust off the station edges before I taped down.


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## jglidden

Thanks for the tape suggestions guys. Do you still put mold release on the sheer flange prior to glassing?

@bryson to answer your questions: I broke the keel fwd of station 11 while being impatient with a hammer  & the chine material is fiberglass. I made a 4x8 sheet using 3oz CSM, 2mm Corematt and another layer of 3oz CSM. I know its overkill but it was the easiest way to get to the 1/4" thick material called out in the prints. Also, the corematt is "supposed" to absorb vibration and sound to some extent.

Edit: I am using the Carbon Core 5 lb PE Foam. It is a lot softer than I thought it was going to be. Easy to dent but also easy to bend to shape


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## bryson

@jglidden I gotcha -- hey did you model the hull form or just the stations and deck?

I use SolidWorks extensively at work, so I modeled up the hull too. It's not perfect, but it helped me visualize the hull extension and transom (and more importantly, check my math) since the 17.5 plans weren't available when I started. It's also been pretty useful for buoyancy calcs and planning out material usage.


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## jglidden

@bryson I have not modeled the hull but yours looks pretty fantastic! I mainly just wanted to get an idea for the deck and interior layout for things like the fuel tank, hatch layout, and bhd placement. Whatever you are missing from the plans, I am happy to email over to you. 
Not sure I would even consider doing this without CAD. All the guys who build without it (which is most) are way smarter than me for sure!


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## FireTurtle

Nice! And it looks like your 4 legged sidekick approves too.


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## Backcountry 16

What part of south Georgia? My mom lives in Coolidge looking forward to watching your build Travis is building me a 16 footer right now.


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## jglidden

@Backcountry 16 I am in Thomasville. So next time you visit your mom give me a shout


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## flyclimber

bryson said:


> @jglidden I gotcha -- hey did you model the hull form or just the stations and deck?
> 
> I use SolidWorks extensively at work, so I modeled up the hull too. It's not perfect, but it helped me visualize the hull extension and transom (and more importantly, check my math) since the 17.5 plans weren't available when I started. It's also been pretty useful for buoyancy calcs and planning out material usage.
> 
> View attachment 85078
> View attachment 85080


That's some good clean modelling....


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## Backcountry 16

jglidden said:


> @Backcountry 16 I am in Thomasville. So next time you visit your mom give me a shout


Will do that for sure.


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## Tx_Whipray

Sublime said:


> I used regular clear packing tape on my flange. I have found that you can put your razor point in big globs of dried gorilla glue and easily flick it off.
> 
> Congrats on the build. *Your tunnel will draw much interest*.


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## Sublime

See !


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## DuckNut

Are you stripping or chunking?

Now...you have disclosed you have a CNC. You know what this means, right? 

It means you are almost cheating.

One thing to consider is routing in drain channels from the hatch gutters to ensure the hatches remain dry. Cut all of them to the stern as it will always will be a bit lower than the bow and the water will drain even on the trailer.


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## Zika

Thomasville? that boat is going to be too nice to run around the rocks and snarls of the Big Bend. Better just leave it in the garage. 

Seriously, good luck with the build. Will be following the progress.


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## jglidden

@DuckNut if thats cheating... I am totally OK with that. I'll take whatever I can get for a little aid!

I am not sure I know what you mean by chunking, but if it means using large pieces of foam cut close to form and trimming/sanding into place then yes! For the larger, flatter portions such as areas close to the stern and entire spray rail. I plan on knocking these out first then figuring out the best way forward in terms of stripping vs chunking. Is there a disadvantage to chunking?

Just for reference I plan on using composite nails to fix the foam to the stations. The intent here was that it will make chunking actually work rather than relying on the glue to hold the form of the boat together. Also, I will have less holes to fill (hopefully). Before glassing I just plan on puttying any and all gaps/seams. Is this sound thinking?

Thanks for the gutter advice! The splashwell and bilge is one of the next items on the list to really plan out and understand.


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## jglidden

Thanks for the kind words @Zika. The boat is a long ways from finished and I am already worried about about taking her where I like to fish! The Econfina and Aucilla have not been kind to my current boat. Had to change the name from Stumpnocker to Rocknocker


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## DuckNut

@jglidden 

That is exactly what I meant and there is zero disadvantage and it will speed things along by days. Toward the bow you will need to plank it to get the curves you want or you will have to kerf the foam.

Kerfing would be cool because you got just the tool to do it quickly and accurately.

Your doing great.


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## jglidden

Thanks man! I appreciate all the help! That carbon core PE foam is surprisingly limber


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## Zika

Knock on fiberglass, the bottom of my Mosquito still looks like the day I brought it home. But fish the Big Bend and sooner or later you'll sacrifice some gel coat to the limestone gargoyles.

Have fun with your project!


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## Fritz

You’re work looks crazy clean, I’m so impressed. I love that your using wide, short planks (chunking...) on the straight sides, why didn’t I think of that.

What is a composite nail and how is it better then screws? Do you leave them in and glass over them?


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## jonny

Yes please explain further the composite nails. And why it is a advantage over foam glue.


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## seapro17sv

jglidden said:


> @DuckNut if thats cheating... I am totally OK with that. I'll take whatever I can get for a little aid!
> 
> I am not sure I know what you mean by chunking, but if it means using large pieces of foam cut close to form and trimming/sanding into place then yes! For the larger, flatter portions such as areas close to the stern and entire spray rail. I plan on knocking these out first then figuring out the best way forward in terms of stripping vs chunking. Is there a disadvantage to chunking?
> 
> Just for reference I plan on using composite nails to fix the foam to the stations. The intent here was that it will make chunking actually work rather than relying on the glue to hold the form of the boat together. Also, I will have less holes to fill (hopefully). Before glassing I just plan on puttying any and all gaps/seams. Is this sound thinking?
> 
> Thanks for the gutter advice! The splashwell and bilge is one of the next items on the list to really plan out and understand.


I'm wondering how you'll go about cutting all the composite nails to get the hull off the stations. Seems like a real pain in the butt to crawl underneath and use a multi tool or something. Am I missing something? I just planked one, and my opinion is you'll need to use the Gorilla glue between the planks to properly hold it all together, because just spreading thickened epoxy afterwards won't get down in between all the gaps. Looking forward to following along with your build. Mike


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## jglidden

@Fritz The plan is to leave the composite nails in place and fiberglass over. They are sand-able and somewhat brittle. So when I pull the hull off the stations they will either pull through or pultrude about 1/4". 
@jonny In my eyes, the advantage of composite nails is that I can leave them in and glass over. Anything left on the interior can be sanded after removing from stations. 
@seapro17sv any "plank on plank" action will have glue between them as well as nails holding them in place. 

All this should be asterisked- ***I have never built a boat before*** - this is all theory and info I have found on the all knowing internet where everything is true!

https://raptornails.com/ these are the nails. They recommend buying their own nail guns BUT after a conversation with a tech at raptor nails, I learned I didn't need one for nailing soft substrates with my brad nailer. When you start using composite nails into harder material they tend to find grains and do weird things. Fortunately foam is soft!


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## RunningOnEmpty

I like the composite nail idea.


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## jonny

I feel you may not want to do that. Getting the hull off the stations can be a bear sometimes. There are many stories of stations and tables having to be beat to pieces with hammers and saws. And since Gorilla glue is just slow expanding foam. It binds and fills voids extremely well with foam. I actually pulled my foam off the stations prior to tying in the transom. (So I would have more flex)With just the glue holding it all together. Then reattached the hull lightly to the stations on a as need basis. Probably eliminated 80-90% of the brads. After glassing she pulled right off with no issues. The few brads left pulled right through the back. I just hand hammer brads into the stations. Using angles to force/hold the strip in place. And used glue and toothpicks in any areas that needed pinning. By the time you get to the point of pulling it off. You have a lot of time and money on the line. Being your first go at it. I would suggest going with tried and true methods. Not saying what you are doing wouldn’t work. Just my suggestion


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## jglidden

Thanks Jonny. I am glad you raised a red flag on this. 

My foam is 5/8" and I will be using 3/4" of 1" nails. I didn't fee like there would be much resistance in either pulling the hull with nails off the stations or nails being pulled through the foam while staying attached to the stations. 

That being said, I will mock up a trail run with some scrap material I have and report back how it goes! Thanks again


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## jonny

Keep in mind the angle of the nail. No matter which you use. A upward angle will help facilitate removal. Where a downward or 90. Will actually make it more difficult. Since once glassed it only comes off one way. Building a boat is like chess. You have to think about what each move will affect. Many moves down the road.
Also with Gorilla glue there is always a mess. But that extra expansion can be a benefit. By holding everything thing in place. And acting like small tacks to the stations. And you can pull all the nails prior to glassing. Which is the ideal scenario. But sometimes the foam wants to pull away and you may need to leave a few in place.
NOTE:
You do not need to pull the hull off like I did. I built my skiff on a huge 19’ steel/wood mobile table I made. I then used it to build the deck mold. And now is very sweet layup/glass cutting table. So I did not have access to the backside like a strong back has. So it was just my paranoia of not being able to pull it off. And then having to cutt big holes from the underside of my table.


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## Pole Position

jglidden said:


> Thanks Jonny. I am glad you raised a red flag on this.
> 
> My foam is 5/8" and I will be using 3/4" of 1" nails. I didn't fee like there would be much resistance in either pulling the hull with nails off the stations or nails being pulled through the foam while staying attached to the stations.



Do you know if commonly sold brad nailers ( Hitachi, Bostitch,Senco, etc ) will shoot those nails?


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## Smackdaddy53

That tunnel will add 5-6” of draft, it’s going to pole like a nightmare, squat like crazy on hole shot, lose 5-7mph and won’t run any shallower than a non tunnel if the interweb experts are correct in their generalizations...
I am loving this build already. Much respect for you guys taking on these projects!


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## jonny

Pole Position said:


> Do you know if commonly sold brad nailers ( Hitachi, Bostitch,Senco, etc ) will shoot those nails?


I read up on em and watched a YouTube video. So I am now qualified to answer. In short maybe. In softer woods/materials yes. But hard stuff no. The heads can break due to getting out of alignment. Their tools have tighter tolerance to keep em straight the whole way.


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## seapro17sv

jonny said:


> I read up on em and watched a YouTube video. So I am now qualified to answer. In short maybe. In softer woods/materials yes. But hard stuff no. The heads can break due to getting out of alignment. Their tools have tighter tolerance to keep em straight the whole way.


Even if you do a trial with a small sample it won't be the same as a complete hull with hundreds of little nails sticking in at different angles. It might be impossible to lift off the stations. I like the concept of the composite nails, but I'd be afraid to do it this way. I used drywall screws and Gorilla glue, and backed all the screws out before glass. Only takes minutes to fill the screw holes before glass. Good luck in whichever way you go. Mike


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## 17376

Very simply get a one pound box of thin drywall screws. Screw the foam and glue it. 2 hours later come back and unscrew to keep moving. On the frames simply use tape. All of this brad nails or composite nails etc is bullshit. Keep it simple.

You have people like mike and myself who have built skiffs. And we recommend the same thing. You have keyboard cowboy, who we have never seen a skiff from, over here saying gorilla glue is a mess.. you can sand the whole inside of that skiff within 5 minutes with a DA to knock off the “messy glue”.

And glue the transom and all up at once and glass everything before taking it off the mold.


Oh and btw a box of screws is probably $7 and you can continue to reuse them.


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## jonny

Travis Smith said:


> Very simply get a one pound box of thin drywall screws. Screw the foam and glue it. 2 hours later come back and unscrew to keep moving. On the frames simply use tape. All of this brad nails or composite nails etc is bullshit. Keep it simple.
> 
> You have people like mike and myself who have built skiffs. And we recommend the same thing. You have keyboard cowboy, who we have never seen a skiff from, over here saying gorilla glue is a mess.. you can sand the whole inside of that skiff within 5 minutes with a DA to knock off the “messy glue”.
> 
> And glue the transom and all up at once and glass everything before taking it off the mold.
> 
> 
> Oh and btw a box of screws is probably $7 and you can continue to reuse them.


I was saying to use gorilla and the benifits of it. And to pull all you can prior to glassing. And advised against all those composite nails. So basically the same as you said. And in agreement with what Mike said as far as all those nails being a issue. Comprehension is a key component to reading. Talk about keyboard cowboys
Jesus

You ever design and build a boat cowboy?


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## jonny

Here you go cowboy. Here is a teaser of my latest design and build. It was from a few months back. This pic has 240 pounds of sand bags at the transom. It’s in the final finishing stages. Not gonna see more till final release.
17.5
72” beam
3.5 draft loaded
5.5” loaded with 550 pounds of beef
Glides on the pole
Turns on a dime
Spins like a top
Dry
30mph with a 30 Tohatsu 4 stroker with a wimpy stock prop.
Contoured transom
No pressure wave


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## jonny

Now back to advice on foam strip boat building.
In between stations with more curvature. Your foam strips may not want to line up well. With the one next to it. This is where you can use a toothpick dipped in Gorilla glue. You line up the foam as you need it. Then push the toothpick into both pieces. On what ever angle you need to hold it. Then just break it off when ready to sand. Beats having to use excessive filler. Or sanding your foam away. Just to correct little misalignments like these. I think most would recommend to use as little filler as you can prior to glassing.


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## 17376

Finally, we figured we would never see it!! Good looking boat there Jonny!! Glad you finally show us!! Copy and paste specs from Chittum? Lmao turns on a dime! 


Back to this thread.. no more derailment..


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## jonny

Travis Smith said:


> Finally, we figured we would never see it!! Good looking boat there Jonny!! Glad you finally show us!! Copy and paste specs from Chittum? Lmao turns on a dime!
> 
> 
> Back to this thread.. no more derailment..


You mean HPX that Chittum copied right? LOL my specs are nothing like The Maverick I mean Chittum. You talk a lot of shit for someone who as far as I know. Has never designed and built a boat. But this is Microskiff after all
LOL


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## Guest




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## jglidden

Everything you guys are saying about the composites vs drywall screws makes sense and I appreciate all the passionate advice!

It is my (ignorant) understanding that the glue works best with strips because after it cures and nails are removed it locks the strips into the shape of the hull. That being said, what can I do with the larger "chunk" pieces I have already cut to keep them formed to the shape of the stations? Specifically between the spray rails and chine. I was banking on the composite nails for that purpose.


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## seapro17sv

jglidden said:


> Everything you guys are saying about the composites vs drywall screws makes sense and I appreciate all the passionate advice!
> 
> It is my (ignorant) understanding that the glue works best with strips because after it cures and nails are removed it locks the strips into the shape of the hull. That being said, what can I do with the larger "chunk" pieces I have already cut to keep them formed to the shape of the stations? Specifically between the spray rails and chine. I was banking on the composite nails for that purpose.


From the pics you've posted, it looks like you'll be fine using those wide strips from the transom going forward where the stations are flat, and without any curve. If you feel it won't lay flat, just rip them in half. We ripped our strips for the majority of the boat to 1 1/2", but if I build another I'd go at least 2". I found the strips under tension because of the extreme bend at the bow actually aligned better than the strips spanning the flat sections. All we did was run a bead of Gorilla all along each strip, screw in place holding them tight together, than just used a piece of masking tape between each station to keep them aligned. Worked well enough for us, with very little misalignment, which sanded out easily. On the flat bottom from the transom forward we ripped 6" strips, glued and screwed them in place quickly, then screwed strips of foam with masking tape across them to align them between the stations. The bottom came out perfect, needing very little sanding before glass. Since we used foam for the chine flats, and the chine sides, we cut them over size and sanded them flush after the glue dried. Build on. Mike


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## yobata

I remember seeing the Raptor staples (not brads) in this post: https://www.microskiff.com/threads/yet-another-osprey-18.17417/page-2#post-343344

They were used to attach planks to a frame permanently - different from what the OP is trying to do. They do have their place, but I don't think as temporary foam core holder is one of them.


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## jonny

Mike I see you have glued the 1” strips together between stations. Did you do this prior to screwing down or taping it in place? This why I used the small brads Travis was trashing me about. I ended my strips half on each station when needed. And this enables you to get both ends on one station. But I didn’t have room for two panhead screws. To hold till the glue dried. I like using panheads. Because it doesn’t go into the foam like a counter sunk head. I thought about using the real small finish screws they have out now. They may be the best of both worlds. I like the way you did it better. Just curious how you held it in place till it dried. I know it was under tension at that point.


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## seapro17sv

jonny said:


> Mike I see you have glued the 1” strips together between stations. Did you do this prior to screwing down or taping it in place? This why I used the small brads Travis was trashing me about. I ended my strips half on each station when needed. And this enables you to get both ends on one station. But I didn’t have room for two panhead screws. To hold till the glue dried. I like using panheads. Because it doesn’t go into the foam like a counter sunk head. I thought about using the real small finish screws they have out now. They may be the best of both worlds. I like the way you did it better. Just curious how you held it in place till it dried. I know it was under tension at that point.


The strips are 1 1/2". We just held each strip on edge and ran a small bead of glue down the entire length, than put it in place and screwed them down with drywall screws. No need to worry about the countersink from the screw heads, you fill them in a matter of minutes with thickened epoxy or a dab of the Gorilla glue. No problem getting 2 thin drywall screws into 1 station when the foam splits there. After all of the strips were glued down and after the glue dried, we pulled all the screws and filled any gaps with the glue and let it expand and fill any voids. Works great, and as someone has posted in the past, the glue joint is stronger than the foam itself, and sands easily as well.


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## jonny

Sorry Mike I don’t think you are following what I was asking. I was referring to the strips that are ended between the stations. And are glued end to end. Like the one on the third station from the front. The dark strip. What did you do to hold it in place? Until the glue dried


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## DuckNut

Keep doing what you are doing. The staples won't be much of a bother, they snap pretty easy. If they pose a problem you can run a guitar string under the station and saw them off or a hacksaw blade.


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## sidelock

jonny said:


> Sorry Mike I don’t think you are following what I was asking. I was referring to the strips that are ended between the stations. And are glued end to end. Like the one on the third station from the front. The dark strip. What did you do to hold it in place? Until the glue dried


I imagine a toothpick inserted in a 45 degree angle from the top edge piercing both butt ends would hold them lined up.


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## Sublime

seapro17sv said:


> The strips are 1 1/2". We just held each strip on edge and ran a small bead of glue down the entire length, than put it in place and screwed them down with drywall screws. No need to worry about the countersink from the screw heads, you fill them in a matter of minutes with thickened epoxy or a dab of the Gorilla glue. No problem getting 2 thin drywall screws into 1 station when the foam splits there. After all of the strips were glued down and after the glue dried, we pulled all the screws and filled any gaps with the glue and let it expand and fill any voids. Works great, and as someone has posted in the past, the glue joint is stronger than the foam itself, and sands easily as well.


This ^^^^ And the Gorilla Glue gets pretty tacky faster than you would think. I have come back a few minutes after gluing a new strip and made some minor adjustments and they hold.


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## kamakuras

sidelock said:


> I imagine a toothpick inserted in a 45 degree angle from the top edge piercing both butt ends would hold them lined up.


I did this a lot then just break the tips off when you go to sand it all. I used a lot of toothpicks. I also used thin drywall screws and washers. Once you remove they are ready to go for your next build. And there will be a next build...

This is by far one of the cleanest builds yet! I am really jealous!


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## Fritz

kamakuras said:


> This is by far one of the cleanest builds yet! I am really jealous!


You’re jealous?!

Your boat is a thing of beauty. 

Meanwhile, we talk about 15 foot paint jobs and 20 foot paint jobs... and I’m trying to sneak “on a galloping horse” into the vernacular, so I won’t be left out.


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## kamakuras

I had really nothing to go on other than some books I bought written in the 90’s about boat building. There is starting to be a lot more out there in how to go with these builds. I see some of the things you guys are doing on your builds and I’m like,”why didn’t I think of that!?!” There are going to have to be Conchfish meetups and fishing trips here soon.


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## sidelock

kamakuras said:


> I had really nothing to go on other than some books I bought written in the 90’s about boat building. There is starting to be a lot more out there in how to go with these builds. I see some of the things you guys are doing on your builds and I’m like,”why didn’t I think of that!?!” There are going to have to be Conchfish meetups and fishing trips here soon.


How are these in a chop ? do they pound much being flat bottom skiffs ?


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## Backcountry 16

kamakuras said:


> I had really nothing to go on other than some books I bought written in the 90’s about boat building. There is starting to be a lot more out there in how to go with these builds. I see some of the things you guys are doing on your builds and I’m like,”why didn’t I think of that!?!” There are going to have to be Conchfish meetups and fishing trips here soon.


I'm down as soon as Travis finishes mine up.


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## kamakuras

sidelock said:


> How are these in a chop ? do they pound much being flat bottom skiffs ?


That has more to do with the captain than anything. Put the tabs down and it is very smooth, I’m really impressed and have run some open bays in 20kt winds now and I’m not in a neck brace! The size of the chop could be debated for years! Anyone that can get down to Jupiter is welcome to take it for a spin.


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## flysalt060

jglidden said:


> @Backcountry 16 I am in Thomasville. So next time you visit your mom give me a shout


Next time I come down to thomvegas to visit, I would like to check out your build if possible. I have become very interested in these skiffs.


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## jglidden

@flysalt060 as long as you can use a sander!!  You are welcome any time


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## jglidden

Time to cut some strips


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## DuckNut

I am calling BS on this build!

There is not actually a build going on here. This thread is 100% photoshopped!

There is no mess anywhere and anyone actually build a boat has a huge mess going on.


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## RogueTribe

Nice work! Super clean


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## Pole Position

Hurry up and finish this thing so we can see how the tunnel does ; )


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## jglidden

Key things learned today:
1) All foam joints are best suited for the most flat sections of the boat. Start from the transom and go 8' forward. Then start from the bow and go 8' aft. Fill in whatever is in between with custom cut foam pieces. I am going to have some serious shaping to do 
2) CM print calls for 1/4" THK glass panels on chines. When he gets back to "the matrix" I will ask why laminate panels rather than 1/4" foam. That laminate panels are a PIA to work with








3) Stemming from Seth's hot glue procedure, I am using a viscous (two part) form of super glue manufactured by Palm Labs called Turbo Fuse. I am using this between stations to keep the foam aligned. Obviously there are pros and cons to this as it sets up (forever) in about 6 seconds but it has worked great for me this far. (Yes I am still using gorilla glue as well)


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## Fritz

I think Chris says you can use almost anything for the flats, the original design called for 1/4” wood, lots of (smarter then me!) guys adjusted the stations and used 3/4” foam. That’s what I’ll do next time.

The foam is really easy to work with, but it’s also really easy to sand to much off of or accidentally punch a hole in it. Cuts both ways I guess.

Your build really does look super clean, I’m impressed!


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## Sublime

Looking good. Like @Fritz said, I cut my stations (actually went back and recut them) so I could use 3/4" foam. I got that idea from @bryson . I would suggest anyone do that when cutting your stations.


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## KWGator

I love following these builds and have to give everyone props for taking on such a cool build. I wish I had the space and time to tackle one myself, maybe one day.

jglidden, I am located in North Tallahassee about 40 minutes south of Thomasville if you ever get in a bind an need a second set of hands on the build one evening or weekend. I have never built a boat but have some home woodworking experience so I won't be totally useless, I hope. 
Keith


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## jglidden

@KWGator I could always use some help! Mentally and physically. The goal is to work a few days during the week and at least one over the weekend. You are welcome any time. I will PM you with my phone number.


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## RogueTribe

How many hours do you figure you have into the actual build? How many sheets of foam did you purchase?


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## jglidden

@RogueTribe I will have to look at my spreadsheet on my work computer but I can give you a fairly decent estimate tomorrow morning. I purchased 10 sheets of 5/8" THK foam and 1 sheet of 3/8" foam for bulkheads, tunnel, side console, and maybe casting platform. I have a pretty well documented BOM and BOO going if you (or anyone) wants to PM me their email address, I will send.


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## jglidden

Had a few hours in the shop this evening and kind of hit a wall regarding the best way forward. I know I need to trip back the strips that overlap the keel to start the other side of the boat but I am not sure the right way to go about it and how far to take it back. It is my understanding that a lot of the shaping in the bow keel area is done with a milled fiber mix but not sure how much of a gap to shape and fill is reasonable?
















Any guidance or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!


If you squint your eyes and look at your computer from about 10' away, its starting to look like a boat... almost


----------



## Guest

I split the keel frame the eye the other side. Round it over a little. Leave enough of a gap for some thickened resin to glue it up.


----------



## RogueTribe

Thanks! I would use a couple nails as guides for a piece of mono pulled tight. Will need shaping/fairing in any event. I have a framing lazer which helps but I suffer from paralysis by analysis. I believe I cut a station wrong today...


----------



## jglidden

Thanks guys.
@RogueTribe - The build man hours are around 55 at this point. Truth be told, I probably spend at least an hour pacing back and forth and staring at the boat at different angles each time I work on it. lol "Paralysis by Analysis" would be the best title for a biography about me and this build.

For clarity, I have not included my CAD design time or any other computer time for fear my employer may find out and I'll be fired


----------



## DuckNut

If your jig is square use a chalk line down the center of the centerline and cut them off. When you get to the other side you can do the same and trim until they fit.


----------



## sidelock

jglidden said:


> Had a few hours in the shop this evening and kind of hit a wall regarding the best way forward. I know I need to trip back the strips that overlap the keel to start the other side of the boat but I am not sure the right way to go about it and how far to take it back. It is my understanding that a lot of the shaping in the bow keel area is done with a milled fiber mix but not sure how much of a gap to shape and fill is reasonable?
> View attachment 86946
> 
> View attachment 86948
> 
> Any guidance or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
> 
> 
> If you squint your eyes and look at your computer from about 10' away, its starting to look like a boat... almost


I would take the largest box cutter blade and hot melt a 1"x 1" piece of wood to it along its length and about 1.5" short of the tip. Take the blade by the wood holding it flat against the frame on the opposite side and make stroking passes along the frame from the underside of the foam until you cut through the foam. When all the foam is cut clean and flush with the port side of the frame you can then cut and remove half the frame thickness of foam from above. When you get to the port side, you can dry fit the tips of the foam strips to match the angle of the starboard side ends before you screw them in place. A hacksaw blade flexed flat against the frame can also be used in lieu of the box cutter blade but the tape should be inspected and touched up if needed after cutting. Not a boat builder but just a thought !


----------



## Fritz

I ended up using a long sharp fillet knife, but my keel only ran through station 8 and it was hardest to get that cut right over the keel.

I also got better and better at patching the foam, fortunately it’s really easy to cut and Gorilla glue a bit of foam into a mistake.


----------



## jglidden

Thanks for the help everyone! I rough cut foam stripped side yesterday and hand sanded to get a smooth finish. 
Is the gap between the foam and the on the FWD part of the keel OK? I am not sure how to get that foam flush because it is a sharp perpendicular transition for the foam and I do not want to create an extreme high spot.
Would the correct action be to get it as tight as possible, make the other side match symmetrically, form the foam gaps and imperfections with putty, then sand down the high keel to match level of rest of the boat? 
Picture for clarity. Thanks in advance for the help


----------



## Guest

If I am understanding you then this is pretty much how I do it


----------



## Sublime

I've been using the @Boatbrains eyeball method.


----------



## sidelock

jglidden said:


> Thanks for the help everyone! I rough cut foam stripped side yesterday and hand sanded to get a smooth finish.
> Is the gap between the foam and the on the FWD part of the keel OK? I am not sure how to get that foam flush because it is a sharp perpendicular transition for the foam and I do not want to create an extreme high spot.
> Would the correct action be to get it as tight as possible, make the other side match symmetrically, form the foam gaps and imperfections with putty, then sand down the high keel to match level of rest of the boat?
> Picture for clarity. Thanks in advance for the help
> View attachment 87014


I would assume if the ends of the foam were mitered to provide a close fit as possible with the matching opposite side ends, you would end up with a very small gap in any therefore requiring considerably less filling and sanding.


----------



## bryson

It's tough to tell what you did by the picture, but I'm guessing you're trying to match what the other side will end up being when it comes across? Either way, you're definitely going to have the gap between the keel and the foam, since the measurements for the keel are at the 3/8" half breadth. *Definitely* don't try to eliminate it. This illustration shows it pretty well.










I used an oscillating tool, and went straight along the centerline as best I could. Then when I did the other side I had to fit them up at the keel first and work my way aft. I considered trying to trim them so the other side overlapped, but thought that I would be able to estimate centerline much better than I could estimate a matching angle coming from the other side.


----------



## jglidden

@bryson This is exactly what I was looking for. Much appreciated.


----------



## bryson

jglidden said:


> @bryson This is exactly what I was looking for. Much appreciated.


Glad to help. It definitely helps me to keep in mind that all of the dimensions on the drawing are just given at one plane (no thickness), and that plane needs to fall on one side of a sheet of something with a thickness (usually 3/4"). Or, in the case of the keel, on both sides.


----------



## DuckNut

jglidden said:


> Thanks for the help everyone! I rough cut foam stripped side yesterday and hand sanded to get a smooth finish.
> Is the gap between the foam and the on the FWD part of the keel OK? I am not sure how to get that foam flush because it is a sharp perpendicular transition for the foam and I do not want to create an extreme high spot.
> Would the correct action be to get it as tight as possible, make the other side match symmetrically, form the foam gaps and imperfections with putty, then sand down the high keel to match level of rest of the boat?
> Picture for clarity. Thanks in advance for the help
> View attachment 87014


Now you went and F'd it all up. You better start over.

When you get the other side all set and ready to mate use a Japanese saw and cut the joints and they will fit perfectly. Use the saw wherever you have a bulge and it will take it out. 

Doing a great job.


----------



## kamakuras

DuckNut said:


> Now you went and F'd it all up. You better start over.
> 
> When you get the other side all set and ready to mate use a Japanese saw and cut the joints and they will fit perfectly. Use the saw wherever you have a bulge and it will take it out.
> 
> Doing a great job.


By Japanese saw do you mean Pull Saw?


----------



## DuckNut

kamakuras said:


> By Japanese saw do you mean Pull Saw?


Yes


----------



## kamakuras

I love mine it is how I made all of my cuts on my cedar canoe to butt up perfectly. It is a handy tool to have.


----------



## DuckNut

kamakuras said:


> I love mine it is how I made all of my cuts on my cedar canoe to butt up perfectly. It is a handy tool to have.


Miracle tool for this kind of work.


----------



## jglidden

Took most of the weekend off for some family time in Tampa. Was fortunate enough to get some fly tying lessons and my first Tampa snook from the one and only @Pierson 

Got back yesterday evening and put a little time in. Target for glassing is August 24


----------



## jglidden

Slowly, slowly catchy monkey


----------



## matt_baker_designs

Love seeing that tunnel come into existence.


----------



## DuckNut

jglidden said:


> Slowly, slowly catchy monkey
> View attachment 87762


Glass bottom skiff....LOVE IT!


----------



## jglidden

Gap filling underway. 
Anyone have any tips for making clean fillets in the corners? I think someone mentioned icing dispenser bags?


----------



## DuckNut

Yes and popsicle sticks will get you 3/8" and tongue depressers will get you 1/2". Just throw away when they get sticky.

PS: clean up that mess. It is starting to look like a workshop.


----------



## jglidden

I apologize for the mess. I will get right on that Mr @DuckNut Sir!


----------



## DuckNut

jglidden said:


> I apologize for the mess. I will get right on that Mr @DuckNut Sir!


You are doing a fantastic job and others are envious of your work shop!

Keep plugging away


----------



## jglidden

Saw some cupholders I just had to have. Fortunately we make two compression molded parts that I can combine to make them.


----------



## DuckNut

That will come in real handy when you are out swimming. 

Superb idea!


----------



## jglidden

Slowly fixing all my mistakes made


----------



## KWGator

I visited with Josh and his friends on Friday night. They are doing great and were a great bunch of guys to hang out with. As soon as I get up to my minimum post limit, I will post some photos.


----------



## KWGator

His mistakes were very minor but I think that their attention to detail is going to pay off in a very nice finished skiff.


----------



## Smackdaddy53

Upskirt tunnel shots please?


----------



## KWGator

Here are some photos of the build on Friday night.
View media item 5812View media item 5810View media item 5806View media item 5804View media item 5808


----------



## jglidden

Thanks for the post @KWGator and the help on Friday! 

Tunnel shots to come when I figure out how to blend where 3 fillets come together @Smackdaddy53


----------



## DuckNut

Not only a CNC, but pro tools to boot!

I think you snowed us.


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Looking good but my suggestion to all is to not spend much time fairing the core before glassing. I would not ever put anymore putty on than just in the seam gaps. Nock off the highs you see on the core skin then glass. You can fill in the lows and fair once glassed. The resin sticks way better to the bare core than the putty does to the core. With all the fairing you are taking a chance of bad skin bonding because the putty is not as strong as the resin-cloth will be. Plus all that dust gets into the core air voids where you want the resin to bonding with- to. I have been saying this before it’s important. Bond glass to the core then fair.


----------



## jglidden

Thanks @Chris Morejohn for the guidance. Unfortunately I went after some pesky gorilla glue spots a little too hard and felt I should fix them prior to glassing.

Definitely lessons learned for next time!


----------



## jglidden

Should I fill this gap between my sheer flange and the foam prior to glassing or deal with it after?


----------



## kamakuras

I did and would. It worked out well on mine. Did you tape and wax up under there before you glued everything together?


----------



## jglidden

Thanks man! Yes I did tape and wax prior to foam fitting. 

Also, how much, if any, is the right amount to overlap the woven glass when putting on the hull. Like where two 50" wide roll come together. Also, where would the best place be to put that seam?


----------



## kamakuras

You are going to get a lot of opinions on that question. I went by what Chris said which was 1/2” or so and stagger joints between layers. On the hull used 3 pieces of glass on first and third layers. A full sheet down the middle and two half pieces on the sides and made joints meet in the chine radius where I could on the first and third layers. My overlap was bigger in some areas forward of the chines. It’s not really too important where the joints are I think because you will cover them with fairing compound anyways.


----------



## jglidden

Thanks @kamakuras 

I know CM is super busy catching up so I wasn't sure if he was going see my email in time. This is what he said "lap 1/2” and best place to stop are inside radiuses or just overlaps the Chines edges" 

@kamakuras and @Boatbrains I know it's late but how about you guys come to S Georgia to get away from that storm and help me glass


----------



## kamakuras

Hell I would rather sand fairing compound than deal with the silliness that goes on every time we are in the cone. My house is all buttoned up nothing to do but wait now. Even took my CF out for an evening fishing trip today. If you were closer I’d knock it out with you tomorrow to pass the time waiting for this thing to decide where it’s going! You got this! Take your time and work smart, cut and roll all your glass all neat and mark it with tape designating where it goes. Also have someone there designated just to mix epoxy for you as you go and mix small batches at a time.


----------



## jglidden

PEAK SKIFF ANXIETY hit last night but MOST things went according to plan. I am a little resin rich and have a couple problem areas that will need attention but now I can sleep at night!
Thanks to all you counselors of the MS community, couldn't have gotten this far without ya. And of course @Chris Morejohn

Biggest advice I can give having glassed is PREP PREP PREP PREP PREP PREP PREP. Fail to plan, plan to fail

Edit: By prep I mean precutting the glass, all resin and activator premeasured and ready, rollers and brushes ready, cleaning supplies like acetone and paper towels ready, AND everyone on the fiberglass team all with defined rolls and gameplans


----------



## Chris Morejohn

Nice, to be honest this is why I say don’t worry about spending too much time fairing the bare core. Just nock off the highs and then glass.
Now what I would suggest doing is to wash off the blush firsts. Then lightly sand the hull with 40 grit using a random orbital sander. Just get the goobers off and any high spots.
Then cut the sheer cloth with one of those right angle type Fien tool type contraptions.
Now Vacuume real good and start your fairing. Now you can make love to your hull feeling her up and getting her as perfect as you want.
Good luck everyone it’s the weather event coming up.


----------



## jglidden

The boss came down from the ivory tower to check the curing of the boat last night


----------



## jglidden




----------



## Desperado213

kamakuras said:


> You are going to get a lot of opinions on that question. I went by what Chris said which was 1/2” or so and stagger joints between layers. On the hull used 3 pieces of glass on first and third layers. A full sheet down the middle and two half pieces on the sides and made joints meet in the chine radius where I could on the first and third layers. My overlap was bigger in some areas forward of the chines. It’s not really too important where the joints are I think because you will cover them with fairing compound anyways.


So for the second layer of glass you did 2 layers of glass that overlap 1/2" down the keel?


----------



## Desperado213

jglidden said:


> View attachment 90424


Looks great! I'm in Tallahassee and would love to come see it sometime and pick your brain on the process. I'm really thinking about taking the jump.


----------



## jglidden

Any time man.
For glassing I did the first layer in 3 pieces, second layer in 2 pieces and third layer in 3 pieces. 
The first and third layers ended up with a seam on the lower chine. The second layer overlapped the centerline by about in inch


----------



## kamakuras

Desperado213 said:


> So for the second layer of glass you did 2 layers of glass that overlap 1/2" down the keel?


I offset it to one side. It isnt right down the middle. And my overlap in reality is more like an inch. My keel also has some extra layers of glass on it.


----------



## KWGator

Don't know if you have seen this in other posts, but I thought it was relevant and cool to see one done.
Florida Sportsman Dreamboat

It starts around the 5:50 mark.


----------



## flyclimber

KWGator said:


> Don't know if you have seen this in other posts, but I thought it was relevant and cool to see one done.
> Florida Sportsman Dreamboat
> 
> It starts around the 5:50 mark.


I thought that was awesome! I watched that last night!


----------



## jglidden

Anyone have any recommendations for the maroon colored material in the picture for the deck mold?
Best case scenario is to be able to bend it easy and be about to screw it into bottom plate to keep in place.

Edit: looked through Travis's build and saw he cut slices in the PVC trim to make it roll better and it seems like the most logical choice at $6.50 per 8' stick


----------



## Chris Morejohn

jglidden said:


> View attachment 92516
> 
> Anyone have any recommendations for the maroon colored material in the picture for the deck mold?
> Best case scenario is to be able to bend it easy and be about to screw it into bottom plate to keep in place.
> 
> Edit: looked through Travis's build and saw he cut slices in the PVC trim to make it roll better and it seems like the most logical choice at $6.50 per 8' stick


I suggest using just cheap 3/4 thick x the height/depth you want wood. I like wood way better because you get a fair line to it. The plastic can wobble from side to side. To do the bow curve you can cut kerfs 1/2 way through the wood strips so it bends right around. Smooth side in. But if you get fairly knot free wood and a piece 12-16’ long you can bend it right around starting at the bow. All the corner pieces can be cut out of blocks of scrap wood as it’s only the inside edge that matters for the form.


----------



## jglidden

Chris Morejohn said:


> I suggest using just cheap 3/4 thick x the height/depth you want wood. I like wood way better because you get a fair line to it. The plastic can wobble from side to side. To do the bow curve you can cut kerfs 1/2 way through the wood strips so it bends right around. Smooth side in. But if you get fairly knot free wood and a piece 12-16’ long you can bend it right around starting at the bow. All the corner pieces can be cut out of blocks of scrap wood as it’s only the inside edge that matters for the form.


Thanks Chris


----------



## Chris Beutel

I missed the side console in your first post. I am thinking of doing the same thing and I am very interested in how you run all your rigging. The boat is looking great.


----------



## DuckNut

Ok @jglidden this slipped to page 2.

We need an update!


----------



## jglidden

Sorry to disapoint, but I have had no physical progress the last couple weeks. Had to take a break for some wedding planning and other activities. My fairing compound should be here late this week so this weekend is gonna get dirty! 
I found a box of 3/8" wax fillets in a dusty corner. Are these the same or better than using modeling clay in the deck construction?

What is a typical distance from the transom to the end of the splashwell? in other words, how wide is the typical splashwell?

Here is some digital progress. Hatch molds, MDF base for deck mold, foam CNC parts.


----------



## jglidden

Hatch molds coming to life


----------



## jglidden

Practicing driving on the left for when I take the skiff over to the UK


----------



## jglidden

Turned the whole shop into an early white Christmas from all the sanding but only a few things left to fair and detail. Paid for some lamination sins today


----------



## Redhead

Wow! Those are some nice looking buckets!


----------



## Bonecracker

Your making great progress Josh! Keep up the good work and I will bring you a redfish for dinner.


----------



## jglidden

Anyone interested in my 17.5 stations and keel? I would probably get rid of them for the cost of the mdf sheets it took to cut them all. Sheer flange not included right now but I should be through with it in less than a month


----------



## jglidden

I had to peek at the inside


----------



## RogueTribe

jglidden said:


> View attachment 96904
> 
> Anyone interested in my 17.5 stations and keel? I would probably get rid of them for the cost of the mdf sheets it took to cut them all. Sheer flange not included right now but I should be through with it in less than a month


Yes, I'll email you


----------



## Sublime

I've peaked under mine, and there are all kinds of gorilla glue stalactites. How is yours so clean? And did it pop off without much effort? I taped all of my stations of course, but no mold release anywhere.


----------



## Fritz

Sublime said:


> I've peaked under mine, and there area all kinds of gorilla glue stalactites. How is yours so clean? And did it pop off without much effort? I tape all of my stations of course, but no mold release anywhere.


What he said!


----------



## DuckNut

Sublime said:


> I've peaked under mine, and there are all kinds of gorilla glue stalactites. How is yours so clean? And did it pop off without much effort? I taped all of my stations of course, but no mold release anywhere.





Fritz said:


> What he said!


He's a cheater!   

Fine craftsmanship Josh. 











(He hid the fact he works in a fiberglass shop)


----------



## Jred

jglidden said:


> View attachment 96904
> 
> Anyone interested in my 17.5 stations and keel? I would probably get rid of them for the cost of the mdf sheets it took to cut them all. Sheer flange not included right now but I should be through with it in less than a month


Where are you located?


----------



## jglidden

Getting the boat off the stations was WAY easier than I thought it was going to be. Just a plastic wedge and a mallet around the whole flange and the skiff was off in 15 minutes. 
I had tape on my stations but no mold release on the tape. The only place I added some mold release was on the flange because I was laying up right on top of it. Truth be told, there was apparently 2 screws that got overlooked and got covered in fairing compound that just pulled through the foam. Also the Raptor Nails pulled through the foam flawlessly as well. They were used on the large panels, mostly around the transom.
I tried to use as little gorilla glue as possible and used Turbo Fuse dabs for instant holds.

@Jred I am in Thomasville GA (Close to Tallahassee)


----------



## jglidden

Just throwing this out there: I have had a fairly large response for the stations. If anyone is interested in having some fresh ones cut for their build along with the keel and sheer flange, let me know. Even if it is for a different model boat than the 17.5
As I am sure CM will point out, it is not necessary whatsoever but will give you a good jump start into stripping your hull and a little peace of mind that they are 100% accurate


----------



## DuckNut

jglidden said:


> Just throwing this out there: I have had a fairly large response for the stations. If anyone is interested in having some fresh ones cut for their build along with the keel and sheer flange, let me know. Even if it is for a different model boat than the 17.5
> As I am sure CM will point out, it is not necessary whatsoever but will give you a good jump start into stripping your hull and a little peace of mind that they are 100% accurate


Precision work is key to a trouble free layup.

Great gesture jglidden.


----------



## jglidden

Custom CF17.5 tunnel kit headed to Texas early next week! Per request, the stations were modified to accommodate 3/4" foam throughout and some additional width added to a few stations to give a slightly larger deck layout. The MDF in the far right of the picture is the base for the deck mold based on hatch layout and cockpit size.


----------



## 7665

jglidden said:


> View attachment 100828
> 
> Custom CF17.5 tunnel kit headed to Texas early next week! Per request, the stations were modified to accommodate 3/4" foam throughout and some additional width added to a few stations to give a slightly larger deck layout. The MDF in the far right of the picture is the base for the deck mold based on hatch layout and cockpit size.


Damn that is awesome


----------



## DuckNut

jglidden said:


> View attachment 100828
> 
> Custom CF17.5 tunnel kit headed to Texas early next week! Per request, the stations were modified to accommodate 3/4" foam throughout and some additional width added to a few stations to give a slightly larger deck layout. The MDF in the far right of the picture is the base for the deck mold based on hatch layout and cockpit size.


NOW your talking, Josh!

This is such a huge benefit to people wanting to build but are a bit timid due to the process. This takes virtually all the worry out and allows the newbie to get a perfect foundation for their build.

You have given the future Conchfish builders a wonderful gift.

Awesome way to use your skills!


----------



## jglidden

Last major things before gel coating:
-Bow
-Strakes
-Tunnel Vent Plate


----------



## DuckNut

Looks to me you need to round up the boys from the shop, put a beer in one hand and a sanding block in the other. 

You are doing a great job.


----------



## jglidden

Bow is getting close to where I want it and the tunnel vent area got the hole drilled and gel coat. 
Lot's of sanding to be done tomorrow in anyone local feels like getting dirty! Beverages will be provided based on performance 
I can smell styrene on the horizon


----------



## jglidden

Laid down a surfacing gelcoat thicker than grandma's mashed taters


----------



## Smackdaddy53

That’s a deep tunnel, looking great!
If I missed it, are you installing a ball valve on the vent or open all the time terminating at the transom or deck?


----------



## jglidden

Plan is to do a ball valve inside the splashwell @Smackdaddy53


----------



## Smackdaddy53

Very cool, looking forward to the progress.


----------



## jglidden

Had a busy December and didn’t have much time for the skiff.


----------



## DuckNut

@jglidden 

Post #150, second picture - what is the muffler looking thing in the paint booth on the table?


----------



## salt_fly

jglidden said:


> View attachment 109220
> Had a busy December and didn’t have much time for the skiff.


Can someone explain to me the concept of a "vented" tunnel? How does it work and what is the benefit? Thanks!


----------



## DuckNut

salt_fly said:


> Can someone explain to me the concept of a "vented" tunnel? How does it work and what is the benefit? Thanks!


In a non vented tunnel there is a vacuum created and venting it allows water to fill the tunnel adding lift and directing the water to the raised prop.


----------



## salt_fly

DuckNut said:


> In a non vented tunnel there is a vacuum created and venting it allows water to fill the tunnel adding lift and directing the water to the raised prop.


Does air come into the tunnel to break the vacuum? If so, where does the air come from?


----------



## Smackdaddy53

salt_fly said:


> Does air come into the tunnel to break the vacuum? If so, where does the air come from?


See post #152
If you search YouTube you will see East Cape demonstrating their version of a vented tunnel.


----------



## DuckNut

salt_fly said:


> Does air come into the tunnel to break the vacuum? If so, where does the air come from?


Post #149, second picture shows the hole. Later it is covered by a small plate.


----------



## salt_fly

DuckNut said:


> Post #149, second picture shows the hole. Later it is covered by a small plate.


Got ya! I assume there is a hose connected to the hole and there is a ball valve on the hose to regulate the inflow of air a la the venturi effect?


----------



## DuckNut

salt_fly said:


> Got ya! I assume there is a hose connected to the hole and there is a ball valve on the hose to regulate the inflow of air a la the venturi effect?


Exactly. Keep watching as the build progresses and you'll see how it is constructed.


----------



## jglidden

@DuckNut 

That is a water/gas separator for a wet exhaust system. You in the market? haha


----------



## Smackdaddy53

jglidden said:


> @DuckNut
> 
> That is a water/gas separator for a wet exhaust system. You in the market? haha


Bro I was looking through your CAD designs and photos trying to solve the mystery. Best I could tell it was a hidden anchor compartment with a rigging hole for nav lights and trolling motor wires...


----------



## DuckNut

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Bro I was looking through your CAD designs and photos trying to solve the mystery. Best I could tell it was a hidden anchor compartment with a rigging hole for nav lights and trolling motor wires...


I was thinking it was a baffle for the air tube that could double as an anchor locker and let the water drain out the air tube.


----------



## jglidden

Hatch gutters are out of the molds... or whats left of them. Definitely learned a lot about what it takes to make a good, re-usable mold. Now time to clean them up!

For those curious, the broken tubing in the background are some composite dock piles I was tasked with flexing until they broke measuring load and deflection.


----------



## flyclimber

jglidden said:


> Hatch gutters are out of the molds... or whats left of them. Definitely learned a lot about what it takes to make a good, re-usable mold. Now time to clean them up!
> 
> For those curious, the broken tubing in the background are some composite dock piles I was tasked with flexing until they broke measuring load and deflection.
> View attachment 110292


I like the look of the gutters! 

BTW what were the boundary conditions for that cracking? Pretty intense!


----------



## jglidden

@flyclimber 
Basically the piling is set up in a cantilever position. The hydraulic ram with load cell (taking data) operates in conjunction with an HMI (touch screen controller). A string attached to a measuring device is attached to the bottom of the tube where the load is applied. The deflection and load data is exported to our servers. We fondly call this machine the Flexor 6000

In this scenario the load was applied about 5 feet from the fixed end. I haven't parsed through the data yet but the average ultimate failure will probably end up around 7500lbs


----------



## flyclimber

jglidden said:


> @flyclimber
> Basically the piling is set up in a cantilever position. The hydraulic ram with load cell (taking data) operates in conjunction with an HMI (touch screen controller). A string attached to a measuring device is attached to the bottom of the tube where the load is applied. The deflection and load data is exported to our servers. We fondly call this machine the Flexor 6000
> 
> In this scenario the load was applied about 5 feet from the fixed end. I haven't parsed through the data yet but the average ultimate failure will probably end up around 7500lbs


That is one heck of a rig! 7500 is no joke!


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## KWGator

I was able to visit with Josh and his team of friends today as they put down some cloth and resin on the deck. It was all hands on deck, pun intended, as they were working to remove all of the air bubbles. 

Overall, I think the boat and their work looks fantastic and can't wait to see it on the water soon. I helped a bit and learned a bunch so I appreciate Josh and his friends being so welcoming.


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## KWGator

Here are a few more photos from yesterday. Front hatch gutter, rear center hatch gutter, mad scientists at work, and the tunnel.


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## Lowtidelowlife

Ah a fellow steely dan man


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## devrep

here is another method of venting a tunnel.


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## jglidden

Deck is up and out of the mold. I am very pleased with how it turned out and thankful for all the help


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## Guest

Looks good from this angle!


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## texasag07

That’s how you build a boat!


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## bryson

Deck looks great! Did you do anything in particular under the core when you laid it down? Like any putty or anything, or just neat resin?


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## Zika

Making some serious headway. Your shop set-up looks ideal, too!


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## jglidden

Thanks guys. 
@bryson Nothing special added in for the foam. 3rd layer of glass was a little resin rich anyways to it worked out. We took just about everything that wasn't nailed down in the shop and put it on top of the foam for some added pressure. With all the foam seams I wasn't particularly worried about the off gassing.


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## jglidden

A few notes for those planning on building their deck this way:

- Wax radius fillets applied with the steel ball tool and heat gun made all exterior radius edges absolutely perfect. Chris recommends using the clay worms here to achieve the same end result. The wax may be a touch more expensive but it saves time, is consistent, and is super easy to apply. I got like 200' of it for $40. No brainer to me. Used it making the hatch lids and gutters as well. 

- Use PVC trim (1.5"x.75") for the the radius corners around the mold where the rub rail mounts. Notch the back a length total of 2*r*PI*0.25+1.5" then leave 2" tabs on each end un-notched for 90deg corners. If your notched section is too long the radius may be a little tough to get right. 

- Use MDF trim (1.5") for the rest of the rubrail trim. We applied with a nail gun. As a stroke of dumb luck realized this was the best way to put it on rather than screws. Its faster to apply and if you end up laying up over and around the edges of the trim, it is a lot easier to "wedge out" than if screwed into the base of the mold when removing the part from the mold. 

- For reference, i used two 14 oz honeywax release agent cans waxing the mold. (https://www.sherfab.com/honey_wax_mold_release) 

- Most of you are more skilled than I am but I am so happy I made my hatch gutters before laying up the deck and just dropped them into the layup sch. I can not imagine laying those bad boys up along with the rest of the deck! 

- Get the dang mold off the floor! My knees and back are killing me

I am no expert at any of this but I am happy to answer any questions.


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## Fritz

@jglidden this is so impressive, well done man!


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## firecat1981

Man you are killing it! I like wax fillets, and will use them in future projects.
I gave up on my hatch mold because it wasn't working out how I liked and built the hatches from parts on my build. Huge mistake! Prebuilt so they just drop in is the way to go!


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## jglidden

Thanks for the kind words everyone. Finally feel good about something I built for this skiff! lol

Edit: Fresh off the scale................. 129 lbs. I couldn't believe it

Last pic


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## Guest

Cap looks great! Love the side console!


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## Sethsawyer

Looks great. I would have saved a bunch of time and had more consistent radii if I had made a deck mold like yours.


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## Sublime

Cool beans. Will the side console have a support strut of some kind?


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## jglidden

Current plan @Sublime


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## Chris Beutel

Your build is really looking great. I am looking forward to the flip and layout. Did you just glue your hatch gutters in or did you run the glass back over the lip?


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## Guest

jglidden said:


> Current plan @Sublime





BassFlats said:


> We all need to meet at a bbq joint in the center of the state. A meet and greet fundraiser.


Nice!


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## texasag07

Chris Beutel said:


> Your build is really looking great. I am looking forward to the flip and layout. Did you just glue your hatch gutters in or did you run the glass back over the lip?


Not to steal his thunder but since I was there I will fill in. They were laid into the deck mold after the second layer of glass while it was still wet, the next three layers of glass went over the hatch gutters so they are glassed in, plus some thickened resin around the edges.


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## jglidden

@Boatbrains instead of meeting at the center of the state, why don't yall meet me in Thomasville and help me finish this thing out! 
Not looking forward to wet sanding this hull


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## Guest

jglidden said:


> @Boatbrains instead of meeting at the center of the state, why don't yall meet me in Thomasville and help me finish this thing out!
> Not looking forward to wet sanding this hull


Buy a Hutchins waterbug sander and foam interface pad! It will save your shoulders and a lot of time! I need to get a new new one as soon as funds allow. Last one last me 18yrs!


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## flyclimber

Did I miss where you mentioned power for this?


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## jglidden

Nope, I don't think it has been mentioned. Going with the new Tohatsu 60 short shaft. According to mfg specs, its is 1 lb lighter than the F40


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## Tigweld

Not sure, disconnected battery and it works


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## Tigweld

Tigweld said:


> Not sure, disconnected battery and it works


Wrong place for reply lol
Sorry


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## flyclimber

jglidden said:


> Nope, I don't think it has been mentioned. Going with the new Tohatsu 60 short shaft. According to mfg specs, its is 1 lb lighter than the F40


I started looking around and that motor "according to manufacture specs" has the best power to weight ratio, the close second is the F70


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## jglidden

@flyclimber


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## DuckNut

Www.flexisander.com


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## jglidden

Pardon me, do you have any grey poupon? 


Threw the deck up top just to see how she looks


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## Guest

Stylin’ and profilin’!


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## jglidden

Aft long and trv bulkheads are glassed in. Floor is globbity gooped in to pair nicely with the rest of the gloopy glob holding this boat together!


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## GaG8tor

Sweet


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## Guest

jglidden said:


> Aft long and trv bulkheads are glassed in. Floor is globbity gooped in to pair nicely with the rest of the gloopy glob holding this boat together!
> View attachment 116506


I see you’ve been reading some of the threads about all these home built boats and globbity goop! Looking great!


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## jglidden

I felt triggered and personally attacked lol


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## Guest

jglidden said:


> I felt triggered and personally attacked lol


The boat is your safe space!


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## Tigweld

Looks goopy


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## jglidden

Motor, jack plate, steering, most electrical is all on. Had to throw the deck on and test fit!


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## trekker

devrep said:


> here is another method of venting a tunnel.
> View attachment 114114


Where is it vented ?


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## Smackdaddy53

trekker said:


> Where is it vented ?


The holes are vented from the front of the tunnel and come out right there at the top of the tunnel on the transom. I’ve inspected another member’s Whipray 17.8 with the same tunnel design.


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## Rharbin1989

We had a pretty productive weekend trying to get the conchfish ready for our glades trip in March. Shouldn’t be long til she hits the water. Here is some pictures for the peanut gallery for your Monday morning blues at work


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## 7665

What fuel tank did you go with and which nav lights did you use? It’s looking awesome!


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## Smackdaddy53

Looking good. Jack that plate up another 4”...


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## jglidden

@spinnb7 
Fuel Tank - http://www.moellermarine.com/moelle...n-permanent-below-deck-boat-fuel-tank-032819/
Nav Lights - https://www.amazon.com/Marpac-D-Advantage-Side-Lights/dp/B00BK9URYE


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## Bonecracker

I just installed the same Nav Lights on my big boat and they were surprisingly well made!!
Good decision!!


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## timogleason

sweet!!!!


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## Battfisher

What is the function of the metallic crucifix on the front of the boat in some of the pictures in post 211?


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## DuckNut

Battfisher said:


> What is the function of the metallic crucifix on the front of the boat in some of the pictures in post 211?


Where he will take communion when he finishes it.


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## texasag07

Praying to the fish gods.



Hammock, sorry josh for the spoilerz


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## jglidden

Kevin knows the deal. Plan is to be able to string a hammock from there to the polling platform. That way you don't need dry ground or permits to camp in the Glades or anywhere else. Just tie a crab buoy to the cross piece and chunk it over before you go out and fish for the day. Or store on dry land if you are in to making logical decisions.. 
Hole will be covered by a 6" inspection hatch, flush mounted to the deck.


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## jglidden

Put her in the water for the first time. Still need lots of finish work and final paint but I could wait any longer! Pictures are with cooler and 15 gallons of fuel in the fwd compartment and about 25 gal of water in the aft compartments. (not from a leak)

Long story short about the water - Jack plate sits too low and dumps water back into the hull. Not great for testing if you don't have hatch lids on!


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## Smackdaddy53

Looking good!
When you add a tunnel you should really add that much height to the transom to offset the depth. That’s why I was saying to raise that jackplate another 4” to offset the water coming out of the tunnel. You can add a 1/2” aluminum plate to the rear of the jackplate to get it up or add the plate to the transom or make an aluminum c channel that fits over the transom to beef it up and make it higher.


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## jglidden

That was exactly my plan! Thanks Smack


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## Zika

Sexy profile. Is that the East River or St. Marks? 

Good luck getting it dialed in and putting the finishing touches on it!


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## jglidden

Lake Iamonia & I will not being going back on a Sunday. Place was a madhouse. Drunk mudboaters flying around everywhere. Jet skier doing donuts right in front of the ramp. Cars, motorcycles, and degens all over the place & all trailer parking taken by people without trailers

Said jet skier, even ran into the skiff when I had it pulled up on the shoreline, backing in the trailer. I *almost* lost my mind.


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## Zika

I'll check the local news for the homicide story.


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## Rharbin1989

Don’t lie Josh. The cross is so he can string up whoever is bitching on the boat and leave them for the bugs, a true Floridians crucifix


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## Tx_Whipray

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Looking good!
> When you add a tunnel you should really add that much height to the transom to offset the depth. That’s why I was saying to raise that jackplate another 4” to offset the water coming out of the tunnel. You can add a 1/2” aluminum plate to the rear of the jackplate to get it up or add the plate to the transom or make an aluminum c channel that fits over the transom to beef it up and make it higher.


Blue point used to make a C Channel transom extender specifically for OG Whiprays with the 15" transom so they could use 20" outboards. Don't know if they still make them, but it would be worth a phone call.


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## Sublime

Tx_Whipray said:


> Blue point used to make a C Channel transom extender specifically for OG Whiprays with the 15" transom so they could use 20" outboards. Don't know if they still make them, but it would be worth a phone call.


Lifted this off IG


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## Tx_Whipray

ha, yep. I was just coming to post that.


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## jglidden

***not a sponsored add***

Finally picked up my platform from Metal Fab Tallahassee and it is build exactly how I needed it to be and a lot sexier than I designed it! I sent them the leg footprint, height, and all dimensions I needed. They added roll to the legs, a tab for anchor light, feet with countersunk holes and made her look sleek. 
Platform was finished 2 weeks earlier than the lead time I was originally given.


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## GaG8tor

It’s nice when companies under promise and over deliver


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## Smackdaddy53

jglidden said:


> That was exactly my plan! Thanks Smack


Stevie had one on one of the transom sleeves on one of his Whips at one time and it was for sale here.


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## Zika

Lot of satisfied Metal Fab customers out there. And I'm not sponsored, either. 

Good-looking platform.


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## K3anderson

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Looking good!
> When you add a tunnel you should really add that much height to the transom to offset the depth. That’s why I was saying to raise that jackplate another 4” to offset the water coming out of the tunnel. You can add a 1/2” aluminum plate to the rear of the jackplate to get it up or add the plate to the transom or make an aluminum c channel that fits over the transom to beef it up and make it higher.


Is it structurally sound to glass in an "extension" to the transom to raise it 4", or do you have to do it as single piece when you originally build the transom?


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## Guest

K3anderson said:


> Is it structurally sound to glass in an "extension" to the transom to raise it 4", or do you have to do it as single piece when you originally build the transom?


It os if done properly. The core is just core. The structural fibers need to be in the right place at the right orientation and in the right amount but can be done.


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## jglidden

Almost done with the engine break in. Most of the hours have been on the mud boat trails through lake Miccosukee and Iamonia. I am currently maxing out RPMs at 6000 with more to give and seeing 32 with two people and full fuel tank. Seeing 35 with just myself and the dog with full fuel tank. I am using a little wimpy 11x14 alm prop. I just put my foreman prop on to test later this week.
Also got to test out the hammock mast. I think it's about time to put the hatch lids on...


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## jglidden

Alright @Smackdaddy53 I think I’m ready for a water pickup


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## DuckNut

jglidden said:


> Alright @Smackdaddy53 I think I’m ready for a water pickup
> View attachment 122664


WTF! Please tell me you will be countersinking the hinges, please.


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## Tigweld

Its a little late for that


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## Smackdaddy53

jglidden said:


> Alright @Smackdaddy53 I think I’m ready for a water pickup
> View attachment 122664


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## jglidden

@DuckNut I am not a huge fan of the hinges either. When I ordered them, I thought they were a lot thinner! 
Went ahead with the install because I am trying to hit a deadline for an upcoming trip. 

What is the best way to countersink them retroactively? I am also not opposed to the piano hinges that sit inside the hatch gutter.


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## DuckNut

jglidden said:


> @DuckNut I am not a huge fan of the hinges either. When I ordered them, I thought they were a lot thinner!
> Went ahead with the install because I am trying to hit a deadline for an upcoming trip.
> 
> What is the best way to countersink them retroactively? I am also not opposed to the piano hinges that sit inside the hatch gutter.


Easier to do piano hinge.

Where's the trip to?


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## Smackdaddy53

Is the lower unit still slinging water on the deck? Looks mighty wet back there. You may need a splash plate with that hull design.


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## jglidden

@Smackdaddy53 Yes, I think I need some splash plates. Its not a ton of water but it's enough to be annoying.


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## jglidden

Got her all slimed up. Here are a few pics from my most recent trip.









Now time to paint the deck and make my cockpit pretty


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## jglidden

Yes, that is a python about 8-10' and about as thick as my thigh. No we did not mess with it or try to kill it bc all we had was a dull/bent machete and a push pole. 

Boat performance was incredible. The skiff cleared the Lopez river mouth bar at dead low and she bailed us out of Charlie Creek (by Pelican Bay) when there was basically no water. I honestly thought we were going to be stuck there for hours. I love engaging "crawl mode" - Bow down +Jack Plate up = Runs in an honest 4" of water (soft or sand bottom)

With full camping gear, 30 gal fuel, 2 medium coolers full of supplies boat still cruised around 24-26 averaging 7-8 mpg. With two guys and fishing gear I cruise around 28 and get about 8-9 mpg. All out with the foreman prop + 2 guys and fishing gear is about 34.


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## Fritz

That’s fantastic all around! Well done sir.


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## Smackdaddy53

Awesome job man, she’s been deflowered properly!


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## DuckNut

If you paint it pretty now you'll cover up the mojo.

Super job


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## Rharbin1989

DuckNut said:


> If you paint it pretty now you'll cover up the mojo.
> 
> Super job


Quit the contrary it will forever seal the mojo into the boat


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## jglidden

Fiberglass stripping bucket to match the boat!


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## Net 30

jglidden said:


> Fiberglass stripping bucket to match the boat!
> View attachment 126392


That's pretty FN decadent.....but cool.


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## DuckNut

Now your showing off!

Great work Josh.


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## jglidden

Time to put her back together!


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## jglidden




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## DuckNut

GREAT job Josh. Congrats!

But you have some esplainin to do...there seems to be another hull in the background. Start why there is not a thread about that one young man!


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## texasag07

Nice!


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## jglidden

@DuckNut That is just remains of the jig I made for this hull, unfortunately.

That being said, if anyone wants it $100 takes it! Casters included. I definitely abused it in the final stages of the build but there is at least $250 worth of wood there and $50 in casters. Just need to get it out of the shop. Should be able to just roll it up any flatbed trailer..


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## Zika

Beautiful job, Josh. Congrats. She's much too pretty to scratch up on the rocks and oysters of eastern Apalachee Bay.


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## Chris Beutel

Josh, Boat looks great. Do you have any pictures on how you ran you rigging?


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## jglidden

@Zika you know I wont be able to resist!


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## jglidden

@Chris Beutel 
I didn't take many but here is one before I cleaned it all up. 95% of all the rigging was done before I put the deck on


----------



## State fish rob

I’m envious of all that ductwork in shop as well. Great job!


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## jglidden

Not a bad “first” fish with the boat finished.


----------



## DuckNut

jglidden said:


> Not a bad “first” fish with the boat finished.
> View attachment 129170


Not only slime but a bit of blood to boot.

Fantastic job Josh. You should have that smile for many years to come.


----------



## GatorTrout

Bleed em and cool em. 

Awesome looking rig man


----------



## jglidden




----------



## JC Designs

jglidden said:


> View attachment 151372
> View attachment 151372


Try building a prototype at “cost” and having someone ask! Holy Jesus, Mary, and Joseph it don’t end well! 🤣 She’s over it now and I’m back to being allowed to sleep indoors but man it was not fun!😂 Any updates? Mods?


----------



## jglidden

lol doesn't sound like fun! @JC Designs 

No mods or anything crazy. About to about 75 hours on the engine now. The more I use the boat, the more I love it. She is very versitile and has taken some serious abuse already. There was an (un)fortunate event where I learned the boat is neutrally buoyant and will not sink  . A little rewiring and insurance claim later got me back to normal within a month. after that.


----------



## jglidden

Now she's a _trolling_ skiff & a polling skiff.


----------



## Smackdaddy53

How did you end up fixing the tunnel and transom height issue?


----------



## Sublime

I've been following on IG. Good stuff.


----------



## jglidden

@Smackdaddy53 I used an aluminum plate bolted to the transom to raise where the Jack Plate mounts. Also helps distribute the load


----------



## Smackdaddy53

jglidden said:


> @Smackdaddy53 I used an aluminum plate bolted to the transom to raise where the Jack Plate mounts. Also helps distribute the load


Awesome, glad you got it sorted! Nice gags!


----------



## DuckNut

jglidden said:


> View attachment 162105
> 
> 
> Now she's a _trolling_ skiff & a polling skiff. 6 keeper gags yesterday in the panhandle


Great work Josh.

Also great to hear you are helping people by making parts for them with your CNC gizmo.


----------



## flysalt060

I forgot about your build and was in thomasville this past weekend. Gonna be down one more time around first of year and hopefully remember to hit you up to come see it in person.


----------



## jglidden

@flysalt060 just shoot me a pm with your number and I'll text ya. You are welcome any time


----------



## GoGataGo52__20

Man nice gags, in a skiff no less, nice work


----------

