# 1991 Johnsen Rebuild



## Dadvocate (Jun 26, 2011)

Love mine after rebuild. It scoots with a 25. Think carefully about your layout before you remove any boxes or seats as theses may be modified to support your new decks or build a livewell inside.


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## JaxLaxFish (Aug 23, 2010)

I agree, just extend the front deck to meet the bench seat, add a small poling platform and go fish. Great boat for our area by the way. I like the direction this guy took with his build, very simple.

http://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1337283345/15


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## wellmanj (Feb 4, 2013)

I appreciate the insight. 
I have put a little thought into a new layout. Maybe I should draw it up and post a pic of that rather than describing it. 
I've been taking time lapse photos with the GoPro so I can make a video of the entire build for my YouTube channel. 
Here it is after the demo.  Ready for grinding.


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## wellmanj (Feb 4, 2013)

Here's a drawing. 
I plan to support the gunwales with under gunwale rod holders glassed in. And I plan on installing rod tube inserts under the fwd deck that will hopefully fit a 10 foot rod or so. I'm not much of a fly fisherman, but I plan on doing more of it. I'd also like the boat to be versatile. 
I'll probably add another storage compartment under the starboard side aft casting deck.


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## wellmanj (Feb 4, 2013)

Sanded a bunch in preparation for stringers and deck. 
Cut out tunnel. 
Cut out transom. Not sure how I'm going to shape the top of the transom.


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## wellmanj (Feb 4, 2013)

Started my  tunnel. Still a bunch of grinding, shaping, and sanding before its complete.


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## wellmanj (Feb 4, 2013)




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## wellmanj (Feb 4, 2013)




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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

Thats a great job. Thanks for the pics and keep them comming.


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## wellmanj (Feb 4, 2013)

I've been trying to decide what shape my transom should take. After some looking around and measuring a million times I decided.  Today I'm in the process of building it. I will be done once I glass the fwd side.  
Here are some pics...

Here's a test with the motor that I've had on the boat. It is a little high, but I can fix that later. I may upgrade to greater horsepower some day.  










Here's my transom with a layer of mat on the backside, resin, and then screwed onto the existing glass to squeeze it together. 










I uesd great stuff to fill the voids between the stringers. I learned that the black container and the red container of Great Stuff fill the same area. Wal-mart sells the cans for $2.67. I'm using 16 cans = $45.71. What is pictured is only 12 of the cans. 










Here I go to glass the front of the transom.


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## SilentHunter (Jun 14, 2010)

Looks great.... I'm interested in how the tunnel is going to work! Subscribed


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## wellmanj (Feb 4, 2013)

> I'm interested in how the tunnel is going to work!


Me too!!!


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## wellmanj (Feb 4, 2013)

> I'm interested in how the tunnel is going to work!


...and if it doesn't work I'll just fill it in and get after it.


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## wellmanj (Feb 4, 2013)

Glassed in the transom yesterday and I'm now about to glass in the deck. 










I've somewhat filled and sanded my tunnel.  










I've glassed part of the deck that will encounter foot traffic. I still have another strip to take care of.  










I screwed the deck to the stringers; countersinking the screws.


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## wellmanj (Feb 4, 2013)

Just finished glassing in the deck. Me and fiberglass don't mix too well.


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## wellmanj (Feb 4, 2013)




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## wellmanj (Feb 4, 2013)

Can anyone suggest an inexpensive paint for my bilge area and under hatch areas? 
Also, what do I use for nonskid and topcoat?


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## jrod0785 (Aug 26, 2009)

I had good results with Interlux Perfection. Which is a two part paint and I used Interlux Interdeck for non skid with good results also. Been done for over a year without any problems. But others here can probably chime in with better ideas.


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## wellmanj (Feb 4, 2013)

I moved some pics earlier. They were just of the future layout. 
Here's one of them...


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Not much use to you for paint other than any two part epoxy paint- since it won't be seen garage floor type, tile clad, etc.

Here is what I can tell you about paint. Dark colors such as black and blues show every imperfection. High gloss really brings out the flaws. Light colors do a good job of hiding impatience.  

Nice build.


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## wellmanj (Feb 4, 2013)

> Light colors do a good job of hiding impatience.
> 
> Nice build.


So, light it is.


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## wellmanj (Feb 4, 2013)




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## wellmanj (Feb 4, 2013)

I got tired so I stopped for the night.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

In post #19 I see a flaw with your design. The inner edge of the gunnels you are adding need support or you won't like the outcome.

They need a lip added to them, making them an L shape to give the support I think you are aiming for. It might also be a good Idea to add another support in the middle depending on the thickness of the wood.


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## wellmanj (Feb 4, 2013)

> In post #19 I see a flaw with your design.  The inner edge of the gunnels you are adding need support or you won't like the outcome.


Thanks for the suggestion. I have the wood for the lip you speak of, just haven't gotten around to it yet.


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## wellmanj (Feb 4, 2013)




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## wellmanj (Feb 4, 2013)

> In post #19 I see a flaw with your design.  The inner edge of the gunnels you are adding need support or you won't like the outcome.
> 
> They need a lip added to them, making them an L shape to give the support I think you are aiming for.


I built the lip today. Here's a bad pic. I'll take another one in the morning when they're dry and set in place.


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## wellmanj (Feb 4, 2013)

I cut off the top 2.25" of a 5 gallon bucket and glassed around the outside.  I think this is going to be my livewell.  After calculating, I lost .9 gallons.  I won't be using it too often, and if I do, it will be for crabs and the occasional pin. 

I just hope it pops out of the bucket in the morning.


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## wellmanj (Feb 4, 2013)

> I just hope it pops out of the bucket in the morning.



My livewell popped out of the mold.


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## wellmanj (Feb 4, 2013)

Gunwales fit nicely. I bounced around on them to see how they'd hold up and they took it well. I'd rather something break now than when I'm on the water.


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## jaythefisherman (Feb 13, 2013)

> Can anyone suggest an inexpensive paint for my bilge area and under hatch areas?
> Also, what do I use for nonskid and topcoat?


use floor and porch enamel oil based from home depot or lowes go to tractor supply and get enamel hardner , will be a 2 part and cost less than 40 for 1.25gals!


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## wellmanj (Feb 4, 2013)

Getting closer with my livewell. I made the top using a $1.96 salad bowl from Wal-mart.  Got the two pieces glassed together.  
I'm going to install it on the port side under the back deck.  
Other than that I sanded some stuff, installed my transom eye bolts, filled some holes, and bought my standpipe drain and my livewell pump. Installed the pump housing.  
Tomorrow I'll work on my building my hatches.


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## wellmanj (Feb 4, 2013)

Building my hatches.


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## mhinkle90 (Feb 24, 2011)

I had a johnsen which was rebuilt with decks and all.

I will say having the gas tank up front definitely helped with weight distribution. IMO having the live well (when in use) and gas tank in the back with you in the back will have major squatting. Especially with the tunnel you have added. Just my two cents. Other than that sick rebuild and thread


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## wellmanj (Feb 4, 2013)

> I had a johnsen which was rebuilt with decks and all.
> I will say having the gas tank up front definitely helped with weight distribution. IMO having the live well (when in use) and gas tank in the back with you in the back will have major squatting. Especially with the tunnel you have added. Just my two cents. Other than that sick rebuild and thread



Yeah, I was kind of worried about putting that livewell in.  I almost decided against it, but knew I'd regret it if I left it out.  I won't be using it for bait too often, mostly cold beer. I'm insulating the outside of it. 
I've also got a few different height standpipes to regulate water height. Crabs and pins don't need much water to live in.


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## wellmanj (Feb 4, 2013)




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## wellmanj (Feb 4, 2013)

I'm very near closing this thing up, but before I do, does anyone have any last minute suggestions? I made my hatches large enough that I'd be able to do most anything once closed up, but I'd rather take care of it before.  

I asked a friend for suggestions and all he said was to give him the GPS coordinates of where it sinks so he can add it to his list of reefs to fish.  

Before I close it up I plan on painting the bilge area and under the front hatch area, cutting out my splash well area and adding a drain hole in the transom, glassing in something to keep the battery from sliding around, installing a bilge pump, and spraying foam around my livewell. 

Suggestions are greatly appreciated.


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## mudd_minnow (Oct 13, 2010)

Hey, This looks great.


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## mbsiegel (Feb 13, 2013)

what kind of hinges are you gonna use?


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## wellmanj (Feb 4, 2013)

> what kind of hinges are you gonna use?


I haven't decided. Any suggestions?


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## mbsiegel (Feb 13, 2013)

what about stainless piano hinges?


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## mhinkle90 (Feb 24, 2011)

is there a way you can take it to a nearby ramp and see how it sits with that layout? I just really think its going to squat pretty bad. I might be wrong but with the tunnel gas and livewell(even if only use every so often) its going to squat. I just don't want you to regret it in the end. Mine squated....even with the gas tank up front with a livewell and battery in the back. I also had a poling platform on the back. just trying to give my honest opinion. but like stated early...sweet build and cant wait to see the final result!


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## Dadvocate (Jun 26, 2011)

I have the same boat and rebuilt very similar except the false floor you put in. Battery up front 6 gal. gas tank, 6.5 gal. livewell and 25 2-stroke in rear. Boat sits almost perfectly level with 1 person fishing on front and rear decks. 6-hole hinges up front and large piano hinge on rear recessed with barrel flush with deck. Tunnel may change everything like SnagYouLater mentioned.


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## wellmanj (Feb 4, 2013)

I finally started glassing the thing together.


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## wellmanj (Feb 4, 2013)

I may be able to test it out in the water tomorrow afternoon.


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## wellmanj (Feb 4, 2013)

> is there a way you can take it to a nearby ramp and see how it sits with that layout?


I took it to the lake today with a 1997 25hp Tohatsu on the back.  With fuel up front, battery in the back and a full well (3-4 gallons), it sits about 6.5" at the transom. That 6.5 was measured on the side where both the battery and well sit and without me in the boat.  I marked the side with a grease pen before heading down to the lake.  The other side was sitting higher, but I didn't measure it.  
With 2 of us in the boat it ran just over 24 mph. 

I may try it again with my 1991 15hp Mercury to see what that changes.


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## wellmanj (Feb 4, 2013)

I took it to the lake. 
I placed a 2x4 on the bunks just at the bottom of the chines and then made measurements. As you can see in the pic with the tape my measurements got progressively worse, but in a good way. 4" is actually 3.75" and 6" appears to be 5.5".  











The starboard side sits at 4 (maybe a little less)...  










and the port side sits at 5 (a little less). I'll take that. This is with the Mercury 15hp.










Here are a couple of it sitting in the water.  





























Here it is with the 25hp Tohatsu; definitely a heavier motor.  The starboard side is about an inch higher.


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## mhinkle90 (Feb 24, 2011)

ahhh! my understanding was that the gas tank was going to be in the rear not the front. With that said it looks good the way she sits. It will begin to draft more once you add more paint and a platform but I'll think you'll be alright. Cool build!


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## wellmanj (Feb 4, 2013)

I'm on hold due to weather. My resin doesn't like to dry in the cold.


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## wellmanj (Feb 4, 2013)

Been working on my other boat's engine lately. Had fuel leaking from the area above the VRO. It works fine now after replacing some gaskets and a few warped plastic parts. 

Back to the Johnsen... Sanding got old and I start a new job on the 1st of April so I decided to go ahead and paint. I'm going to tape off and nonskid with some Interdeck.


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## wellmanj (Feb 4, 2013)

The nonskid looks yellow in the sunlight. O well. 
While standing in the back it sits at the 6" mark. I had someone check it for me while I was in the boat. Keep in mind that my marks are off a bit so 6" is really 5" to 5.5". 
It also runs 17.5 tops after cutting the transom down to keep it from sucking air. I've also got a banged up aluminum prop that I'd like to replace with stainless. Any suggestions on the proper prop to use? My motor is a 91 15hp merc.


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

if its ok with the mods and treefish id like to pick his post back up since i purchased the boat and am going to make some mods and give it a good fit and finish?


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

ok so started reworking the boat. made a sorta tough decision after getting into the boat. i decided to remove everything from the floor up and reinstall it with pascore. there was a lot of mold and some plywood was delaminating etc.. so out with the old.


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## Dadvocate (Jun 26, 2011)

Link did not work


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

yeah sorry lets try these!


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## scsdiver (Oct 27, 2014)

me and pop getting it underway!!








everything cut loose








working on getting things smoothed out. 








finally ready to start filling! this is after 14 40 grit belts, 3 40 grit grinding discs, 6 2" 40 grit sanding discs, 6 dumps of my shop vac, and 3 filtes in the vac. 








tomorrow night we start filling!!


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## Carivera (Jan 13, 2017)

Any up dates?


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## paint it black (Nov 3, 2007)

Carivera said:


> Any up dates?


 He had made a new thread.
find it here:
https://www.microskiff.com/threads/91-johnsen-re-rebuild.17449/


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## Carivera (Jan 13, 2017)

paint it black said:


> He had made a new thread.
> find it here:
> https://www.microskiff.com/threads/91-johnsen-re-rebuild.17449/


Thanks


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