# HPX-T Center Console Repair



## BVBFly (Jan 23, 2012)

I have an '03 Hpx-t and the center console has vibrated loose, mainly the port and bow sides. You can see in one of the pictures the CC lifted up about a 1/2" off the deck. Looks like the console was attached using aluminum L brackets and thru bolt decks and some 5200 or similiar along the seams.

The right (and permanent) fix I know is to remove those aluminum L brackets and glass the CC to the deck. I'm fairly experienced with fiberglassing and this job to me seems be relatively straight forward after all the prep work is done. The downside, if you want to call it that, is glassing it in becomes rather permanent. Additionally, I want to re-wire everything inside the CC, but I just don't have the bandwidth right now to take on this project.

I suspect carrying out the re-wire is much easier to do without the CC? If so, I may elect to temporarily bond the CC back to the deck with 4200 until I get the time to complete bit - rewire and glassing console back in. Hoping this bandaid would get me through 3 or 4 fishing trips. Any suggestions or alternatives to consider?

Lastly, I'm trying to figure out what might have caused all those large craters in the deck inside the console. I purchased the boat a little over a year ago and was like this when I got it. Maybe hydraulic fluid leaked out of the jack plate hydraulic pump assembly you see pictured? Any suggestions on how I should fill/repair these bowl shaped cavities?


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## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

None of your photos came through... but to re-secure any console to the deck all you need are toggle bolts (in marine hardware stores they're branded "Togglers" - avoid ones in big box stores for home repair since they're not stainless...). Any time you see a pedestal seat bolted down to a deck they've used togglers (they allow you to use fasteners where you can't reach the underside of the surface you're attaching to.

With Togglers you'll still be able to use those aluminum brackets that are there already - and when you choose to re-do your console you'll still be able to un-bolt them (carefully).... 

Before using toggle bolts the first time take two pieces of scrap - then follow the directions that come with the Togglers to secure them together.... After that you'll know exactly how to use them properly for a solid, no fooling around, connection between your console and the deck... 

"Aren't boats fun?"


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## State fish rob (Jan 25, 2017)

If you need to access console , you can hinge front & toggle rear. You’ll have to replace toggles when lifted each time . I ve added cup holders to have top access to super small console. ( I don’t fold up as well as I did) If it’s located where you want it fiberglass it in. Do craters look like surf board dings ? Could always fill old holes and re drill ( JB weld or the like) , short term. Most of my short term fixes last longer than intended.


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## EvanHammer (Aug 14, 2015)

Your pictures don't show up but assuming it's like my old HPX-T and hte other two I helped repair the aluminum angles were screwed into the foam core with no adhesive between the aluminum and the deck. Over time the screws wear a big hole in the core and the console comes loose.

I like to remove the angles and clean the floor, use a cut off allen wrench in a drill to dig out the core where you will be screwing them back down, fill the void with a tube of thickened epoxy to create a "puck" to screw into, then screw the angles back down with a bed of 5200 under them. After that the angles are fairly permanent but you can remove the console when you need by unbolting it from the angles.

I didn't want mine glassed in because it's hard to work under there without taking the console loose and tilting it forward. You mentioned rewiring, but replacing the steering cable, replacing the trim tab control box, etc. all required me to take the console loose and tilt it forward.


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## RJTaylor (Oct 4, 2017)

I just got finished pulling my 17T console, and re-bedding it a few weeks ago. One angle bracket suffered from adhesive break down, and was loose, the other 2 were rock solid. I cleaned up the area with acetone, and glued it back down, then relocated the console side fasteners to new holes. A final bead of 4200 around the perimeter of the console solidified the repair. I have ZERO movement now.


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

Recently saw a high end skiff that the factory used 3m 2sided foam tape to bond the console. Was very clean, removable, and very secure. It was a neoprene tape about 1/4-3/8” thick. Before anyone says anything about it, the boat was an ‘01 and as secure as day one!


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## BVBFly (Jan 23, 2012)

Thanks for the recommendations. I plan to fill the existing fastener holes with some thickened epoxy to screw the angle braces back in with some 5200 to bed it back in. Save the fiberglass job for when it comes lose again hopefully in the distant future. 

I tried reposting the pictures of those crater spots (see original positing).


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## Tilly_Copano (Feb 12, 2017)

BVBFly said:


> Thanks for the recommendations. I plan to fill the existing fastener holes with some thickened epoxy to screw the angle braces back in with some 5200 to bed it back in. Save the fiberglass job for when it comes lose again hopefully in the distant future.
> 
> I tried reposting the pictures of those crater spots (see original positing).


I have the same boat and this is what I did. It’s worked great.


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