# Whaler build



## CurtisWright

Nice! Not a lot of room on a 13 whaler. Are you going to be running a 15HP? Id stick with a 3 Gal tank. A second 3 gal tank can be tossed in the cockpit for really long runs. A series of 1-2gal jerry jugs can be packed in here and there. If you have a 15hp 4s you will be in the 15-20 MPG range.


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## WhiteDog70810

I agree with Curtis. I'd use portable 3 gallon tanks if I was in your shoes. With the burn rate of that size of boat and motor, 13-15 gallons of fuel could easily get stale before you could burn it up and you would never run it dry. No one ever seems to mention that it is really good to run tanks dry then completely refill them. With two 3 gallon tanks, you could run one dry up every trip-ish, thereby keeping your fuel fresh. Since you are installing a front deck, could you find space under it for two 3 gallon fuel tanks and battery? The livewell needs to stay in the stern to soften the ride for your bait, but with the operator, motor, fuel, battery and livewell in the stern, you are going to squat it severely. I know that a Whaler is not designed as a microskiff and it might be impossible to get it to float level, but there is no reason to make it draft more than necessary at the transom.

Cool rebuild. Post more pics. I always liked Whalers. We used my buddy's 15' Montauk as a mothership on a few hunting trips back in college and I was very impressed. It wasn't a speed demon, but it planed easily and safely carried a hellacious load. 

Nate


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## Floridian1

Thanks yall, I will probably just keep the 6 gallon and have an optional 3 gal at hand in case I stay closers to launch.But this does give me more room in the center stern to my run livewell pump and keep it in the same area as the bilge incase something leaks. Front deck is built both batteries I think will go up front. To help level out the load. Trolling motor going upfront as well


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## WhiteDog70810

What is going to counter-balance that livewell when full? Once you find something to counter balance the livewell when full, what are you going to do when it is empty? Few things are heavier to haul than water, so you really can't stuff enough gear in that starboard storage area to balance things out. Cathedral hulls are less sensitive to uneven loads than other hulls, but on a 13' skiff, it seems like it would cause a pretty significant list. 

I like to keep fuel, livewells and big coolers on the midline. A single deep cycle also needs to be on midline IMO. I don't like 12 volt systems, so I would not have less than 2 deep cycle batteries if I bothered with a trolling motor, so they could be on opposite sides of the hull in my world. If you put the batteries in the bow, I've seen recommendations to use sealed gel batteries instead of water filled because they hold up to the pounding better. I guess the plates can fracture in a water filled battery.

Nate


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## Floridian1

WhiteDog70810 said:


> What is going to counter-balance that livewell when full? Once you find something to counter balance the livewell when full, what are you going to do when it is empty? Few things are heavier to haul than water, so you really can't stuff enough gear in that starboard storage area to balance things out. Cathedral hulls are less sensitive to uneven loads than other hulls, but on a 13' skiff, it seems like it would cause a pretty significant list.
> 
> I like to keep fuel, livewells and big coolers on the midline. A single deep cycle also needs to be on midline IMO. I don't like 12 volt systems, so I would not have less than 2 deep cycle batteries if I bothered with a trolling motor, so they could be on opposite sides of the hull in my world. If you put the batteries in the bow, I've seen recommendations to use sealed gel batteries instead of water filled because they hold up to the pounding better. I guess the plates can fracture in a water filled battery.
> 
> Nate





WhiteDog70810 said:


> What is going to counter-balance that livewell when full? Once you find something to counter balance the livewell when full, what are you going to do when it is empty? Few things are heavier to haul than water, so you really can't stuff enough gear in that starboard storage area to balance things out. Cathedral hulls are less sensitive to uneven loads than other hulls, but on a 13' skiff, it seems like it would cause a pretty significant list.
> 
> I like to keep fuel, livewells and big coolers on the midline. A single deep cycle also needs to be on midline IMO. I don't like 12 volt systems, so I would not have less than 2 deep cycle batteries if I bothered with a trolling motor, so they could be on opposite sides of the hull in my world. If you put the batteries in the bow, I've seen recommendations to use sealed gel batteries instead of water filled because they hold up to the pounding better. I guess the plates can fracture in a water filled battery.
> 
> Nate


Thanks for the suggestions on the batteries. I'll probably just move the cooler around to shift weight. Also when I'm by myself I guess I'll be the counter weight to the livewell.


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## CurtisWright

Looking at your latest pics, that is going to be a really heavy and cumbersome boat. All the decks and bulkheads are made of coosa, not to mention the original whaler hull is already pretty heavy. I would try to get it in the water with a motor before you progress much further, because you may be cutting a lot of that stuff out. The cathedral hull with all the weight added to the back will require a lot of HP to plane. I would bet $100 that with you, 6 gal of gas, batteries and that full live well that a25hp will not plane. Especially if you add a friend to the mix. You're going to need 40hp and its going to porpoise without a whale tale.

The boat was designed to have a fuel tank (only) in the back and a driver in the middle of the boat.


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## Gervais

I grew up fishing out of a 13ft whaler (actually 2) with a 40hp 2stoke Merc which fits that boat well. With 2 5 gal cans of gas and one adult it would run a little over 40mph wide open. With two adults and three kids it was more like mid 30s. That was all bare bones bones whaler with a thin wooden bench seat and side console, no batteries and a few rods, a small cooler light. we would make a 45min run out to surf fish and make it about 2/3 back before having to switch tanks. I would recommend at least a 30hp 2 stroke with all the extra weight and hope for high to mid 20s. Just my 2 cents if its worth that much


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## Floridian1

CurtisWright said:


> Looking at your latest pics, that is going to be a really heavy and cumbersome boat. All the decks and bulkheads are made of coosa, not to mention the original whaler hull is already pretty heavy. I would try to get it in the water with a motor before you progress much further, because you may be cutting a lot of that stuff out. The cathedral hull with all the weight added to the back will require a lot of HP to plane. I would bet $100 that with you, 6 gal of gas, batteries and that full live well that a25hp will not plane. Especially if you add a friend to the mix. You're going to need 40hp and its going to porpoise without a whale tale.
> 
> The boat was designed to have a fuel tank (only) in the back and a driver in the middle of the


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## Floridian1

Not planning on running a 25hp. Hopefully I can get my hands on a 35/40.


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## Pole Position

Ive got a 40hp on mine and A) yes, it runs like a scalded dog and B) as Curtis said above, you will need a whale tail or trim tabs to stop the porpoising.


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## Floridian1

For sure thanks for all the helpful info. Dont they make self leveling tabs???what's a good brand if so?


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