# Transom repair



## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Glasser does good work if he has the time (Rockledge). Have you thought about doing it yourself? It's not difficult.


----------



## jlindsley (Nov 24, 2015)

How bad is it?

I just had my Pursuit 2470 done with Seacast. Seems rock solid and a lot less $$$ and easier to do. Mine wasn't completely rotted just part of it where motor bolts came through.


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

yobata said:


> Glasser does good work if he has the time (Rockledge). Have you thought about doing it yourself? It's not difficult.


I thought about it. I’ve never done any glass/epoxy work. I know I cut the template and I would probably build the core separate. Then tab in with peanut butter.


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

jlindsley said:


> How bad is it?
> 
> I just had my Pursuit 2470 done with Seacast. Seems rock solid and a lot less $$$ and easier to do. Mine wasn't completely rotted just part of it where motor bolts came through.


I would love to do the pour but I know less about that than fiberglass


----------



## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Kevin Booker said:


> I thought about it. I’ve never done any glass/epoxy work. I know I cut the template and I would probably build the core separate. Then tab in with peanut butter.


Where in CFL are you? I'm in Melbourne and would be willing to give you a hand if my schedule permits. You seem to have a good idea of the process. You can also check out this tutorial from Bateau: http://bateau2.com/howto/transom_repair/


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

I am in Winter Garden but would be willing to drive. I looked at that tutorial. I don’t have any stingers to tie it. I wasn’t sure if I would need to take The whole backend off or just cut out rot. It has a T-shaped transom as one of the board and the others are full length. I know I should try to preserve the back skin or the front skin yeah. The old transom is 2 inches thick but I wasn’t sure if I needed it to be that thick with the Better wood and materials that are available. I saw somewhere where people are using transoms that were one and a half inches thick. Again the boat is only 14 foot.


----------



## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

most repairs I've seen they left the outer glass skin on, glued the core (good marine ply fully wetted in or Coosa) to that with thickened epoxy and then re- glassed the inner skin with biaxial cloth and epoxy. I wouldn't even use fiberglass resin, use epoxy. I would think 1 1/2" would be enough as you probably aren't talking huge horsepower but 3 layers of 3/4" wouldn't be much harder. All layers glued together with thickened epoxy. If you use wood all holes drilled thru or into it for mounting things need to be wetted in with epoxy, don't skimp on this or you will get rot.


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

devrep said:


> most repairs I've seen they left the outer glass skin on, glued the core (good marine ply fully wetted in or Coosa) to that with thickened epoxy and then re- glassed the inner skin with biaxial cloth and epoxy. I wouldn't even use fiberglass resin, use epoxy. I would think 1 1/2" would be enough as you probably aren't talking huge horsepower but 3 layers of 3/4" wouldn't be much harder. All layers glued together with thickened epoxy. If you use wood all holes drilled thru or into it for mounting things need to be wetted in with epoxy, don't skimp on this or you will get rot.


You mean the mounting bolt holes and the transom hooks? Also of course the drain plug. It’s a 20hp merc (115 lbs).


----------



## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

yes any holes you drill with wood core you should use a small brush and coat the inside of the hole with epoxy (not thickened) and then use 4200 sealant when you put the bolt or screw in. You need to keep water out of the wood core. On the aluminum boat we have been restoring with wood transom and decks we have over drilled all of the holes, filled with epoxy and then re-drilled. Most aren't going to go to that length but at least coat the wood with epoxy and use sealant or you'll be back replacing the transom again in a few years.


----------



## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

I'm with devrep on this: over drill, fill entire hole with thickened epoxy, then re-drill to proper size. Still use a good sealant after (4200/5200). Yes it adds an extra day to the rigging process, but it's better than repairing the transom again in a short time due to poor sealing.


----------



## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

@Kevin Booker this place has a lot of very helpful and knowledgeable members who are always willing to help. If you take lots of photos before and during the process, we will be happy to help!


----------



## predacious (Sep 1, 2016)

replacing a transom core,it's not that difficult.

wood - it does require epoxy.epoxy is waterproof,unlike polyester based resins,epoxy also provides a reliable bond,versus the surface bond polyester resins provide,when used with wood. polyester resins are a very poor choice,when working with wood - wood requires complete and total sealing from any water migration,polyester based resins will not provide that seal.

it's 2017,lots of better choices instead of wood,for core materials.a sea cast system,isn't the ideal choice,based upon my experience.penske/coosa board is an excellent option - with the density of this product,no overboring,filling with epoxy is required - Penske/coosa board will not absorb moisture,nor will it rot.composites are always a better choice than wood,just be sure to select the appropriate material for your application.penske/coosa board,it weighs 45% less than wood - that's a big difference.composites are used with polyester based materials,for laminating and finishing.wood and epoxies,that means different steps are required,to properly refinish

3m 5200 - always the best choice for any at or below the waterline adhesive/caulk,the inexperienced will claim it's permenant,it's not.


when upgrading,restoring/refinishing - the idea is to make the product better than it was,when new - using the latest materials along with technology,this will provide that.

if you're unsure about materials,techniques,it's often cheaper in the long run,to have a qualified/experienced individual perform the repairs - this avoids costly mistakes.often times,people will take advice given,watch videos,and skip a few important steps - end result is not good.


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

Looking at the price of coosa is a deterrent. As it would be nice, I don’t really want to pay $300 for a single sheet. As the dimensions in the back are 52”x18” I would need 2 sheets right, In order to keep each layer one continuous sheet. This is a starter boat That cost me $850 with the trailer. I bought a new outboard for it so I need to make sure that part is secure. This will not be my last boat.


----------



## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Predacious is right. However from what you are describing, go the plywood route and call it tuition. Do a good job with the wood and the next one can be done with better materials.


----------



## jlindsley (Nov 24, 2015)

Kevin Booker said:


> I would love to do the pour but I know less about that than fiberglass


I had someone do mine but it isn't too difficult from the videos I've seen. Cut top then take chainsaw to take all rotted wood out. Mix and pour. It will def be a less expensive alternative if you are not trying to sink a bunch of money into it. I didn't find any bad reviews on seacast system


----------



## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

I would rather use marine ply and epoxy to encapsulate the wood than the poured sea cast.... you're still relying on the old skins made with polyester resins.... I trust epoxy and biax fabric more...


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

Another 2 quick questions for the board.

I have seen some people say to put Fiberglass between the sheets of ply or whatever you use and some don't mention it. You thoughts?
Should the rear skin be replaced if it has a crack? I am not sure if it does but I am also not sure it doesn't? The gelcoat did crack a little. I thought if the skin was, I could cut out the crack but leave the edges, tab in the transom and then build up the area that was cut out. Or will it even matter with the epoxy?


----------



## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Kevin Booker said:


> Another 2 quick questions for the board.
> 
> I have seen some people say to put Fiberglass between the sheets of ply or whatever you use and some don't mention it. You thoughts?
> Should the rear skin be replaced if it has a crack? I am not sure if it does but I am also not sure it doesn't? The gelcoat did crack a little. I thought if the skin was, I could cut out the crack but leave the edges, tab in the transom and then build up the area that was cut out. Or will it even matter with the epoxy?


1. There is no reason to put fiberglass in between the two sheets of ply (I'm assuming you mean taking two 3/4" pieces together to make 1.5" thick transom?). You should, however, glue them together by brushing each side that will be in contact with neat epoxy and also some thickened epoxy.
2. Once you start tearing out the old transom, you should have access to the outter skin from the inside to check its integrity. At that time, it will not hurt to lay up a piece of cloth to the inside of that outter skin to make sure that it will not leak into your new transom before bedding and tabbing in the new transom ply...

Hope this helps. By the way, in my signature line there is a link to my re-build of a 14' Johnsen and the first few posts show how I re-built my transom. It may be helpful to see pics of the process...


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

yobata said:


> 1. There is no reason to put fiberglass in between the two sheets of ply (I'm assuming you mean taking two 3/4" pieces together to make 1.5" thick transom?). You should, however, glue them together by brushing each side that will be in contact with neat epoxy and also some thickened epoxy.
> 2. Once you start tearing out the old transom, you should have access to the outter skin from the inside to check its integrity. At that time, it will not hurt to lay up a piece of cloth to the inside of that outter skin to make sure that it will not leak into your new transom before bedding and tabbing in the new transom ply...
> 
> Hope this helps. By the way, in my signature line there is a link to my re-build of a 14' Johnsen and the first few posts show how I re-built my transom. It may be helpful to see pics of the process...


Funny enough, after your last post, I saw that and just finished reading it. You are an artiste. That build is ridiculously awesome. You literally did everything that I wish I could do to mine. I saw that it was a long job. Very impressive for sure. I would love to learn enough to put that deck on the back. I thought about leaving the rear seat and using it to support the deck. I knew I would need to coat the ply and then put thickened between them. How do you put enough to avoid Voids?


----------



## NativeBone (Aug 16, 2017)

yobata said:


> 1. There is no reason to put fiberglass in between the two sheets of ply (I'm assuming you mean taking two 3/4" pieces together to make 1.5" thick transom?). You should, however, glue them together by brushing each side that will be in contact with neat epoxy and also some thickened epoxy.
> 2. Once you start tearing out the old transom, you should have access to the outter skin from the inside to check its integrity. At that time, it will not hurt to lay up a piece of cloth to the inside of that outter skin to make sure that it will not leak into your new transom before bedding and tabbing in the new transom ply...
> 
> Hope this helps. By the way, in my signature line there is a link to my re-build of a 14' Johnsen and the first few posts show how I re-built my transom. It may be helpful to see pics of the process...


 how do I access your re-built? Working some repairs myself and would love to learn


----------



## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Red Hooker said:


> how do I access your re-built? Working some repairs myself and would love to learn


https://www.microskiff.com/threads/build-thread-1967-johnsen-starfisher-14.36427/


----------



## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Kevin Booker said:


> Funny enough, after your last post, I saw that and just finished reading it. You are an artiste. That build is ridiculously awesome. You literally did everything that I wish I could do to mine. I saw that it was a long job. Very impressive for sure. I would love to learn enough to put that deck on the back. I thought about leaving the rear seat and using it to support the deck. I knew I would need to coat the ply and then put thickened between them. How do you put enough to avoid Voids?


I used a plastic "knife" to spread out enough thickened epoxy for there to be squeeze out. Just wipe up the squeeze out before it cures so you dont have to sand it off


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

Thanks. Any suggestions on epoxies?


----------



## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Kevin Booker said:


> Thanks. Any suggestions on epoxies?


Big fan of Boat Builder Central's MarinEpoxy. The site is a sister company to Bateau and are located in Vero Beach if you don't want to pay for shipping... also, get the "slow" hardener

https://boatbuildercentral.com/proddetail.php?prod=E_Kit


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

yobata said:


> Big fan of Boat Builder Central's MarinEpoxy. The site is a sister company to Bateau and are located in Vero Beach if you don't want to pay for shipping... also, get the "slow" hardener
> 
> https://boatbuildercentral.com/proddetail.php?prod=E_Kit


Thanks. Would you say 1.5 or 3 gallons?


----------



## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Kevin Booker said:


> Thanks. Would you say 1.5 or 3 gallons?


I always bought them in the 3 gal batch (2gal or resin and 1gal of hardener) but that's because I knew I was going to use it for the rest of the boat and don't mind having some left over... I'm sure you can do just the transom with 1.5gallons, the question is: do you expect a need for more epoxy later?

BBC also sells woodflour which you can use to thicken epoxy to the "peanut butter" consistency, I would imagine 1lbs of that should be enough to bed the transom and sandwich the 2 sheets of ply, but you can always get 2. I think it's only like $5/lb


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

Sorry for so many questions, as I am new to this, I see the different glass sizes listed. What makes you choose the 6 oz vs the 12 oz. would you use the 12 oz to tie in or the 6 since it finishes better. I thought 12 on the back and 6 inside. How many layers would you lay for inside skin? I need to buy a laminate roller and I guess some other tools.


----------



## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Kevin Booker said:


> Sorry for so many questions, as I am new to this, I see the different glass sizes listed. What makes you choose the 6 oz vs the 12 oz. would you use the 12 oz to tie in or the 6 since it finishes better. I thought 12 on the back and 6 inside. How many layers would you lay for inside skin? I need to buy a laminate roller and I guess some other tools.


You should get 12oz biax for your transom job, and also get a roll of 6" biax tape in the 12oz variety. You will need to "tab" in the transom on the inside (assuming you're keeping the outer skin) with the 6" tape using at least 2 overlapping layers. First tape about 4" on the transom and 2" on the side of the hull, then tape about 2" on the transom and 4" on the side of the hull. Also do this for the bottom of the transom and the bottom of the hull.

Then use 2 layers of 12oz biax cloth on the inside making the cloth cover the entire transom and even overlapping the tape on the sides and bottom (make each layer 2" bigger each time). 

Before you start, cut all your cloth and label or arrange in order so that you stay organized. I would also do all of this work after bedding in the transom, wait ~30min for the bedding thickened epoxy to start to kick so that it doesn't move anymore, properly fillet the sides and bottom with thickened epoxy (fiberglass does not bend very well in sharp corners), and then start with your tape. 

This is called the 'wet-on-wet' method. It makes for chemical bonds for all of the steps. The opposite would be to do a step, let the epoxy cure, then you would have to re-sand the area to keep going, it performs by the use of a mechanical bond and is less preferred.

If you are also going to do the outside skin instead of keeping the old/original skin, follow the same recipe: overlapping tape on sides and bottom, 2 layers of 12oz biax over entire transom. If you are going to do the outside skin, you will have to sand and fair the outside as the extra layers of fiberglass will sort of stick out - on the sides, this is less important than the bottom where a "hook" effect can happen. 

All of this may sound complicated, but it's not that bad

Also, feel free to ask as many questions and you have. I also learned from others


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

Ok. What about the transom angle? Easy to measure of course (I teach math), but when I cut my core, do I need to angle the ends at the 5° angle to maintain the same transom angle? Especially at the bottom or the top or will that be filled with epoxy? 
When you go over the back of the transom, how far would you go down? I understand in principle what could happen if you go all the way to the bottom. The force of all the water would eventually have a chance to pull up your work if you did not make the transition smooth enough. Would you want to go two inches then 4 inches over the top, or just right above the waterline? 

***I really appreciate all this help guys. If this goes smooth I may take out the middle seat and put a false floor in but I might be getting ahead of myself.


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

Do you guys thinking oscillating tool could take the place of a angle grinder? I do not have an angle grinder but I can get one if I can’t use this


----------



## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Kevin Booker said:


> Ok. What about the transom angle? Easy to measure of course (I teach math), but when I cut my core, do I need to angle the ends at the 5° angle to maintain the same transom angle? Especially at the bottom or the top or will that be filled with epoxy?
> When you go over the back of the transom, how far would you go down? I understand in principle what could happen if you go all the way to the bottom. The force of all the water would eventually have a chance to pull up your work if you did not make the transition smooth enough. Would you want to go two inches then 4 inches over the top, or just right above the waterline?
> 
> ***I really appreciate all this help guys. If this goes smooth I may take out the middle seat and put a false floor in but I might be getting ahead of myself.


for 1: From Bateau's website, although it discusses stringers, its the same principle: leave the cuts square, a little gap is often desirable when gluing up with epoxy -
There is no need to taper the edges, a step is fine. Epoxy putty will fill that step.
The stringers will be bedded in epoxy putty then fiberglassed to the hull with biaxial tape.










for 2: I'm not quite sure what you are asking here, can you re-state?

also, lots of good info here: http://bateau2.com/howto-index.php


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

So for the second question I mean when I put the fabric that sheet over the inside of the transom, I should also read that same sheet over top of the transom correct. Here is a video I made.


----------



## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Ok, thanks for the video, that made it easier to understand. Definitely overlap the rear skin, 2" is probably good enough. You want to be sure to encapsulate the entire new transom to keep any potential water out. 

To that end, it may be a good idea to lay a layer of glass to the existing outter skin (after removing old transom and cleaning up the fiberglass there) using epoxy to make sure you have sealed it all the way around. The old fiberglass job was most likely done using polyester resins and those are not as good at keeping water out. Epoxy is impervious to water (as long as everything is properly sealed up and no cracks/water intrusion points remain). You can do that step when you go to "bed" in the new transom ply (apply some pressure with clamps but not so much that you completely starve the new layer of fiberglass of epoxy).


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

Sounds good. Now I just need to figure out how to apply some pressure to the bottom of the outer skin when I put the core in. I understand how to do it at the top with 2 x 6 and clamps put at the bottom it’ll be a little different. That sight had nice info.


----------



## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Ive seen people use 2x4s and cut them to a length so they press against a forward bench seat and the bottom of the transom


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

That’s what i was thinking too. I was thinking that after I put the Core in, that I should level off the two little tears in the back skin with thickened eboxy and then lay the new back skin. Do you think a oscillating tool would work to cut the front skin or do I need something a little stronger to get into the ward at the edge? If an angle grinder is that much better I can buy one.


----------



## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

the oscillating tool will work to cut it out, but at some point you will have to grind paint off to have good adhesion with the new glass. Harbour Freight sells angle grinders for like $20 - I got one and it has lasted me 2+ years now


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

Ok. I was sure what else I needed it for but I see need to get one. Thanks.


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

So the transom is out and it was a mess inside. The rear skin. It has some parts at the top that I would need to be patched. Trying to decide if I should keep it or not. My only concern is about bedding the transom back in. I’m not sure how I would keep it on the 5° angle. I guess I don’t really need any pressure on it though so I can wedge a piece of wood against it while it dries


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

Does anybody know where to find some marine grade plywood in Orlando? Would it be so bad to use aBX since I am sealing it with epoxy and glassed in the epoxy. I saw some at Lowe’s but I am not sure of the quality


----------



## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

There's an 84 lumber & imeca lumber in Orlando. Both can get you 3/4" marine ply or may already have it. One sheet will be enough for the transom. 

One of the reasons that you would want marine ply is that the type of glue used in the construction of the ply is less likely to fail if water somehow found its way in.


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

Ok. Thanks. How well did the glass lay through the lowered section in your transom? I feel like its going to possibly bunch up there. Did you cut it to accomodate that part. Mine is not as severe as yours but still angled.


----------



## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

You're talking about the top of the transom where it dips down a bit to accommodate the 15" short shaft motor, right?
It's a little bit of a pain, but if you take your time, roundover any sharp edges, and precut your glass, it's very manageable. I also did that part after so I didn't have to worry about it at the same time I was covering the larger sections like the inside/outside skins...


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

Ok. So you glassed up to the top on the front and back and then capped the top with a separate piece? That’s what I was thinking.


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

Thanks for reminding me about 84. They had it.


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

yobata said:


> You're talking about the top of the transom where it dips down a bit to accommodate the 15" short shaft motor, right?
> It's a little bit of a pain, but if you take your time, roundover any sharp edges, and precut your glass, it's very manageable. I also did that part after so I didn't have to worry about it at the same time I was covering the larger sections like the inside/outside skins...


So I have the new core cut and currently pressing together. I wanted to lay a new sheet inside the back ski but would that alter the fit of the transom? I remember you said it will not corner well. Would it be worth it to cut it to the same dimensions as the core template/rear skin? I will need to sand that prior to bedding the transom core though, right?


----------



## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Kevin Booker said:


> So I have the new core cut and currently pressing together. I wanted to lay a new sheet inside the back ski but would that alter the fit of the transom? I remember you said it will not corner well. Would it be worth it to cut it to the same dimensions as the core template/rear skin? I will need to sand that prior to bedding the transom core though, right?


Sorry it's been a long day. You're saying you want to lay a new sheet of fiberglass before the new core goes in? You can do this at the same time as when you bed the transom working wet on wet, it won't hurt to have that fiberglass be a little bit bigger than the size of the rear skin. Hope your new core isn't too tight of a fit, a little bit of a gap is a good thing and will get filled with thickened epoxy.


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

yobata said:


> Sorry it's been a long day. You're saying you want to lay a new sheet of fiberglass before the new core goes in? You can do this at the same time as when you bed the transom working wet on wet, it won't hurt to have that fiberglass be a little bit bigger than the size of the rear skin. Hope your new core isn't too tight of a fit, a little bit of a gap is a good thing and will get filled with thickened epoxy.


I hope so too. It has a gap. I still need to sand the edges flush with each other. I should do that right? The corners are a little rounded where the back skin meets the sides. Especially at the bottom. Had trouble getting in their deep with the grinder. Would it be worth it to Dremel that out or should I just round the bottom corners of my core? I need to do that so that it will fit a little tighter up against the skin at the bottom. I’m still up in the air about the removing the rear skin though. How much more difficult is it going to be if I do take that off? I guess I’m just worried about getting the edges around the boat faired in and looking decent. This is just my first boat so it’s not the worst if it looks a little rough I guess. 

Off Topic BTW who do you coach for? I am thinking about getting back into it. I was the Offensive coordinator at Dr. Phillips for six years before I had two little girls. That was 5 years ago though.


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

This is the gap I have. The curve on the transom is making it hard to get flush. I wasn’t sure if I should round the corners or just put a lot of epoxy there. I also wasn’t sure if I needed to build up one of those sides to make it tighter


----------



## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

The gap on the sides may be a bit too big, but it's ok to fill with thickened epoxy, you will just end up using quite a bit more epoxy which is probably more expensive than the wood 

The gap in between the core and the outter skin is a little bit of a concern. Try and ground out any remnants in the bottom corners. You do not want any air gaps and this section will be harder to fill or see if there are air gaps later.


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

Thanks. I am going to try to dig those out in the back. I might be able to take them out with either the grinder or the oscillating tool. If not I might be able to bevel the edges of the wood to get them to fit a little more snug into the back


----------



## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Kevin Booker said:


> I’m still up in the air about the removing the rear skin though


You are getting a great step by step tutorial - don't go and overthink this and trust me when I say your teacher bolts if you cut the skin off. He told you NO before and that is with very good reasoning behind it.

You are two hours from having this completed.


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

DuckNut said:


> You are getting a great step by step tutorial - don't go and overthink this and trust me when I say your teacher bolts if you cut the skin off. He told you NO before and that is with very good reasoning behind it.
> 
> You are two hours from having this completed.


He said that is TBD. As I had stated, I was having trouble getting the transom to push back flush. I’m taking in all of the information. And I’m very thankful for all of the help. When I started this I had no clue where to even begin. Now I feel much more confident with what I’ve learned.


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

Much better fit.


----------



## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Looks better Kevin. Make sur eyou have plenty of clamps before you start and even precut some 2x4s to brace the span of the transom, and the ones that you will wedge between the inside bottom of the new core and the rear bench seat.

Alternatively, you can also make some of those deep clamps that look like









Here's a photo of how those work:


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

Thanks. Just bought the 2x4 and 2x6. I was all ready to start and then.... wife cut her finger and had to take her to the ER. Argh. Maybe later today? Maybe I’ll cut the glass now. Should I just enlarge my template by 8” or just cut in rectangles?


----------



## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

That is exactly how to do it. Don't forget plastic or waxed paper so any epoxy that oozes out won't glue your boards in place.


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

Thanks. Didn’t have that on my list. Instead of wedging the 2x4s against the rear seat, I used some spare tire jacks. The cheap ones that come with cars. Worked really well because I can adjust the pressure easily. Glass cut and ready. Might install Tuesday or Thursday. Should I just patch the old holes(transducer) with thickened epoxy. Might still put a sheet inside. When I coat the transom with neat epoxy, do I need to do the edges as well correct or should I just use the thickened epoxy on those


----------



## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Coat all the places where the new core will be in contact first. Sometimes the thickened epoxy is mixed too thick to wet out the old contact point well


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

That’s what I was worried about. Thank you. I just wasn’t sure if the thickened epoxy was supposed to get in those nooks and crannies second. I may have seen this on the forum but just to doublecheck, do you coat the edges with the thickened epoxy before you put the transom core in or do you push it into the cracks when making the fillets on the sides or both. I think I’m going to load some old caulking tubes with the Epoxy. I’m not worried about how much I am going to waste right now because I’m too deep in. Would I used to thickened epoxy to patch the holes on the back skin or fairing? I will probably end up placing another sheet over the back. It just makes sense to since I’m already in.


----------



## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

I uses a gallon zip lock bag, found it easier to fill than caulk tubes - fill with thickened epoxy, then cut off a corner and use like an icing bag for cakes!  

I would place a thick bead on the sides and the bottom before bedding the transom in. For the surface that is going to be in contact with the outter skin, I would put a layer of near epoxy, then spread some thickened epoxy relatively evenly with a plastic putty knife, then clamp it all up.


----------



## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Mix up some epoxy as normal - just resin and hardener - and paint it on everything where the thickened epoxy will eventually go. After that mix up your thickened epoxy and get to work. Any screw holes will be filled by the epoxy and you can scrape it off after it kicks and before full cure.

Then do your fillets if you can reach them as it is best to get it all done in one shot to cut way down on sanding cured epoxy.


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

Not bad overall.. It took longer to get the epoxy into the glass than I thought. I pulled the glass up in that shot so I could trim it off later. Had a little bit a problem with the epoxy wetting out at the top. I’m going to have to cap the top because I could not get it to turn over the top. I think I forgot to round off the top corners. It was a little hotter today and I wasted more Epoxy than I wanted to with the pot getting cooked.


----------



## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Does not look that bad at all!! Fixing the top won't be that bad. Just grind any spots with air behind it, and round over the edges on the top and lay some strips across...

Is that one layer or two on the inside? Also, I couldn't tell but you did remember to tab it all in before the full first layer on the inside right? 

Not bad at all for a newb  I'm sure you learned a lot and that will help you fix anything that didn't come out as good as you wanted


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

Thanks. It’s 2 layers. Like you said, I did the 2 layers of tape on the edges to tab it in then the tolayers of full clothe to cover.


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

Meant to ask what you painted your interior with.


----------



## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Good job booker.

That heavy glass will never make that bend. Cap it with a couple layers of CSM and wrap a layer or 2 of 6oz cloth across the top.


----------



## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Kevin Booker said:


> Meant to ask what you painted your interior with.


In my opinion you basically have 3 options which I will list in order of best quality (and most expensive) to lowest quality (and least expensive):

1. Awlgrip 2 part paint
2. Interlux Perfections
3. Rustoleum Topside (doesn't get that hard and may need touch ups from time to time but it's only $13/quart).

There's probably other options but those tend to be the most popular. The best quality paints will be 2 parts that you mix together, those will be the hardest/most durable, but will also be the most expensive. If this is just a beater / work boat finish, the $13 rustoleum is okay too..


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

Thanks for all the help with all of this guys. I’m sure I’ll have more questions as I finish it up. I will probably just use the cheap paint because if it wears off, that means I can also take it off easier if I decide to deck out the back. This is just a beater boat, my first. At some point I would probably like to get an anKona or better. Who knows maybe I will try to build one from bateau!! Ha.


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

DuckNut said:


> Good job booker.
> 
> That heavy glass will never make that bend. Cap it with a couple layers of cam and wrap a layer or 2 of 6oz cloth across the top.


By cam, do you mean camosil?


----------



## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Kevin Booker said:


> By cam, do you mean camosil?


 CSM= chopped strand mat (I fixed my typo)


----------



## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

DuckNut said:


> CSM= chopped strand mat (I fixed my typo)


Kevin, sorry to derail, just have a question for DuckNut: I was under the impression that CSM has some constituents which require polyester resins to catalyze for proper bonding. Is that the case, and if so, what's the point of using CSM with epoxy?


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

yobata said:


> Kevin, sorry to derail, just have a question for DuckNut: I was under the impression that CSM has some constituents which require polyester resins to catalyze for proper bonding. Is that the case, and if so, what's the point of using CSM with epoxy?


 I thought I read that same thing. I thought Epoxy was only supposed to be using with woven


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

BTW. How did you sand your transom for a smooth finish? Poly disk for the rough spots then sander or flap wheel


----------



## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Kevin Booker said:


> BTW. How did you sand your transom for a smooth finish? Poly disk for the rough spots then sander or flap wheel


I used an orbital sander from harbour freight, $20 bucks plus discs (120 grit I think?) and sanded down the "weave" that holds the biax in place, then a coat of neat epoxy, when cured sanded again and faired with quick fair to 220 grit, but you can also mix your own fairing compound. If workboat finish sand until you're satisfied with finish...


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

Sweet. Trying to finish before Thanksgiving break. Get back for one last try at 2017 snook


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

What kind of coverage should I expect with the quick fair? Trying to figure what size to buy. I am just fairing the transitions though right? And any low areas I may see. Not the whole core right ?


----------



## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Its really up to you how you want to do this. Fairing the surfaces that are not the planning surfaces is done for aesthetics only. Fairing just gives you a "slick" finish. The fairing compound is basically thickened epoxy but formulated to fill in any pinholes and low spots, and to be easily sand-able. Since you mostly put new glass down on the inside and top of the new core, you can choose to fair it as much or as little as you want.

Edit: realized I didn't really answer your question. If you are going to fair your new transom, the small quart size will be more than enough for this task. You basically are putting a relatively small coat of the stuff on, so it goes a long way. Use one of these plastic spreaders to put the fairing compound on


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

ok Thanks.


----------



## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

As far as paint i have used regular rustoleum paint for my last three boats and it is cheap, strong and last great as long as you prep the surface. Also touch ups later are a breeze. Not for 20,000 boats but great for 1000 boats. I used rustoleum topside and cannot tell difference from regular. Also just FYI it takes long time to fully cure especially if humid. I would give it a full week to fully harden.


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

thanks. With this level of boat and after what I’ve spent that will work for me. Did you just use it inside


----------



## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Sorry, I was out of town.
http://epoxyworks.com/index.php/chopped-strand-mat-and-epoxy/


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

DuckNut said:


> Sorry, I was out of town.
> http://epoxyworks.com/index.php/chopped-strand-mat-and-epoxy/


No worries. Thanks for the info. I picked up 6 oz and rounded of the edges on the core after grinding off the voids left were the 12 wouldn’t bend. Sanded the transom today. So annoying. Took a long time. Lots off small little holes. Argh. So will those fill with a few coats of neat Epoxy and quickfair?


----------



## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

I used rustoleum on outside and inside. I used safety blue for outside. I like their topside off white color also for the inside. Im building a mini camper and am using rustoleum for that also.


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

Ok. I figured rustoleum boat bottom would be fine for my touch up on the rear skin. Did you add hardener? If I decide to remove the middle bench and put more work into it, I would probably go yobatas route with the epoxy and graphite.


----------



## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Let's see some photos


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

642646A5-7D94-4973-8242-039E2C62143B




__
Kevin Booker


__
Nov 12, 2017











  








82356CE4-2638-4D6D-9198-5C2665B59F2C




__
Kevin Booker


__
Nov 12, 2017







Resealed transom top today with 6 oz. I just have to finish up sanding,Quick fair came today and drill my holes fill with thickened epoxy and re drill


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

Transom rear




__
Kevin Booker


__
Nov 13, 2017




Transom rear









  








Cut out




__
Kevin Booker


__
Nov 13, 2017




Transom cut





So maybe stupid questions,

I should drill and fill prior to fairing and painting right?
How much larger do you overbore your holes, transducer, motor mount (8x85), transom u bolts 1/2"?
I put a few wood screws in when I bedded the transom. In order to get thickened' epoxy in there, should I widen the holes?
*I'm really over sanding.


----------



## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Kevin Booker said:


> Transom rear
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Looks good. Yes, do your collars before painting. I don't know if there is a proper amount to over drill, but I usually like to leave enough of a collar to not worry about drilling too close to the wood. So for a 1/2" thru bolt, maybe drill a 1" hole, fill with thickened epoxy, let cure, then drill thru the center to appropriate size leaving 1/4" collar. I also prefer to put some neat epoxy on the wood before filling with thickened epoxy.

You don't have to widen the holes to fill screw holes, just use less thickening agent (wood flour or cabosil or whatever you are using) or even straight neat epoxy if it won't run out depending on location of course...


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

Did you guys use a transom plate when you mounted your outboards. I had one before but it’s bent out of shape. The bolts on this mercury are so tight together the it doesn’t really work either. I’ve been looking but haven’t seen any that look like what I want. Any suggestions?


----------



## PG350 (Jan 19, 2012)

I also used epoxy / graphite on the bottom before. I works great. If the boat will not be in the water long, the no bottom paint needed. I would use gel coat or graphite/epoxy for the bottom.


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

PG350 said:


> I also used epoxy / graphite on the bottom before. I works great. If the boat will not be in the water long, the no bottom paint needed. I would use gel coat or graphite/epoxy for the bottom.


I will just be touching up for now with what is already there. Later I will do he graphite. I think my wife is over the dust, time and money. It’s a little messy for now but we will see how she turns out.


----------



## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Probably should have mentioned this before, but I use clear packing tape to 1: hold the thickened epoxy in place, and 2: leave a smoother finish. The tape peels right off after the epoxy cures, and makes the cleanup/sanding a bit easier


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

yobata said:


> Probably should have mentioned this before, but I use clear packing tape to 1: hold the thickened epoxy in place, and 2: leave a smoother finish. The tape peels right off after the epoxy cures, and makes the cleanup/sanding a bit easier


Damn. Didn’t think of that. Next time.


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

yobata said:


> Probably should have mentioned this before, but I use clear packing tape to 1: hold the thickened epoxy in place, and 2: leave a smoother finish. The tape peels right off after the epoxy cures, and makes the cleanup/sanding a bit easier


I know you used epoxy with the graphite for your bottom, What did you use for your exterior white? I assume epoxy like Interlux bottom epoxy. Is it possible or feasible to color the epoxy I have and use to paint the transom exterior? I really want to do the bottom with the Graphite but I don't think that is happening right now. HOA, finding people to help flip and the annoyance of all the sanding. plus the fishing is starting to heat up.


----------



## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Kevin Booker said:


> I know you used epoxy with the graphite for your bottom, What did you use for your exterior white? I assume epoxy like Interlux bottom epoxy. Is it possible or feasible to color the epoxy I have and use to paint the transom exterior? I really want to do the bottom with the Graphite but I don't think that is happening right now. HOA, finding people to help flip and the annoyance of all the sanding. plus the fishing is starting to heat up.


West Systems Epoxy sells a white epoxy pigment (501 I think), but here is an interesting article that mentions the ability to use art store pigments. If anything I would try it out on a test piece and see how it comes out...

http://epoxyworks.com/index.php/adding-pigments-to-west-system-epoxy/


----------



## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

first poly coat rear




__
Kevin Booker


__
Nov 20, 2017











  








First coat front




__
Kevin Booker


__
Nov 20, 2017







One or 2 more coats and its fishing time.


----------

