# Restoration Project Dolphin Super Skiff



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

It won’t be fast but it will be thorough! The hull is a 1981 Super Skiff. It is wood hull with delams and wet wood all thru the transom and hull.
















step 1 is complete! Getting both boats to fit in the garage (sort of) the devilray is in need of some after a bad prop strike with a submerged mammal…


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## tim in nc (Aug 28, 2015)

Following, interested in seeing what you are going to do.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

tim in nc said:


> Following, interested in seeing what you are going to do.


1. Demo all the way to the skin of the boat
2. Replace wood with probably pvc 60 and re glass inside
3. New stringers that match (hopefully) current production boats
4. 2 rear facing rod tubes 1 set forward i think. 
5. custom console with toe relief
6. Slightly crowned deck (I like the look similar to the Chitums)
7. 2 sealed hatches
8. If I can… send Powerhead off to hydrotec for some work

over arching goals are to keep boat light and simple.


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

Sweet man, I wanna rebuild and old Yamaha 60hp and have been thinking about sending the power head and putting a phase kit on it from hydrotech


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Console, electrical, steering all out. Next up fuel and thinking of a way to remove cap. I think this may have had some sort of rebuild in the past as the deck is foam not wood. Still crushed in places tho.


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

Sweet! Makes me all giddy inside to see some grind dust flying again!😉😎🤙🏻🇺🇸


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

JC Designs said:


> Sweet! Makes me all giddy inside to see some grind dust flying again!😉😎🤙🏻🇺🇸


What's the likelyhood of this skiff being a foam core skiff if the transom, the deck and the bulk heads have all been foam!? I think there was a chance there was an option back in the 80s that someone could build a no-rot hull.

This may not be as extensive as I first thought! The transom had at least 1/4" thick of solid glass before the foam core! BEEFY


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## HunterOnFly (Apr 15, 2020)

Love your rear-facing rod holders and crowned deck goals. Are you planning to keep it and have two different skiffs for different conditions?


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

flyclimber said:


> What's the likelyhood of this skiff being a foam core skiff if the transom, the deck and the bulk heads have all been foam!? I think there was a chance there was an option back in the 80s that someone could build a no-rot hull.
> 
> This may not be as extensive as I first thought! The transom had at least 1/4" thick of solid glass before the foam core! BEEFY


Text me some pics!


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

HunterOnFly said:


> Love your rear-facing rod holders and crowned deck goals. Are you planning to keep it and have two different skiffs for different conditions?


100% The SS can be sand bar and ocean side boat. The devil ray will be skinny water fishing!


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## Wk05 (Feb 10, 2017)

Looks like such a fun project! Would love to take on a restoration again!


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Following


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Sublime said:


> Following


You'd better get a move on. You had a large head start 💁‍♂️


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

flyclimber said:


> You'd better get a move on. You had a large head start 💁‍♂️



I know right. My eyes are bigger than my stomach. I've just always loved the lines of the Dolphins.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Sublime said:


> I know right. My eyes are bigger than my stomach. I've just always loved the lines of the Dolphins.


I love the bow flare. Reminds me of some of those big sport fishers! I need to get the tank and motor removed next. That should happen this weekend. I'm sure the wife want to go fish tho, finally got the devilray running again.


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

Let me know if you need any of that core brother.


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## Backcountry 16 (Mar 15, 2016)

Nice snag @flyclimber. Looking forward to your restore thread.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Little update. I haven’t removed cap as I think it would be nice to know what I’m actually working with. Seems to be foam thru and thru. I bought a 7” grinder to be more efficient and hopefully not make too much waviness on the hull/deck, it was throwing off so much dust. I modified a concrete shroud vacuum attachment to almost solve that issue. And the motor is now on casters!
I think the tank looks pretty good and I love the shape! It does have 2-3 small little areas that will need addressing. 
more updates will be thrown on @dolphinss16_restore Instagram!
t


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Here’s your long weekend update:
Good amount of gel coat has come off and it’s clearing up the areas of concern. The four corners around the cockpit. Also the floor looks to have been cut open already so I think it’s a reasonable assumption that the stringers have seen some work already?
The wife even wanted to help (she is very excited about this one because it has a steering wheel, so this may be “her” boat)
We’re probably going to build a new console to house all electronics and house battery. I’ll upload some of those once the deign is firmed up


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## MikeChamp12 (May 17, 2021)

That’s the perfect tank I need for my skiff.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

MikeChamp12 said:


> That’s the perfect tank I need for my skiff.


I can post dimensions if that would help but that one will be staying with the skiff!


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## MikeChamp12 (May 17, 2021)

flyclimber said:


> I can post dimensions if that would help but that one will be staying with the skiff!


Please that would be helpful. I tried to get in contact with Dolphin Boats to purchase one but I’ve been unsuccessful via phone.


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## dodgerodder (Feb 9, 2021)

Awesome project, will be following! Really like that hull!
Dan


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## tim in nc (Aug 28, 2015)

The previous owner of my 2005 just replaced the tank. I have a copy of the invoice with all the dimensions. I will be back to the coast tomorrow and can send them to you if interested.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Here is the overall size of the tank
It does have tie-down angle with some edge supports. I can add those if you need it.


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## MikeChamp12 (May 17, 2021)

flyclimber said:


> View attachment 183099
> 
> 
> Here is the overall size of the tank
> It does have tie-down angle with some edge supports. I can add those if you need it.


Awesome. I should be able to make something work. I’m sure my bow is near identical to the older dolphins.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

MikeChamp12 said:


> Awesome. I should be able to make something work. I’m sure my bow is near identical to the older dolphins.
> View attachment 183106


If you have some dimensions I can draw something up for you to give to a fabricator! That looks like a banana boat skiff!


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

I would like some input from some of the minds on here! So far I have found nothing but clean dry foam in the critical area with nothing more than gel coat cracks on the top side with the exception in a couple of areas which are easy to repair. I'm leaning towards finsihing the cleanup and maybe re-working the hatches to get them drier and then just gel-coat and fish. Would save a bunch of time and effort! What does MS think?


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## MikeChamp12 (May 17, 2021)

flyclimber said:


> If you have some dimensions I can draw something up for you to give to a fabricator! That looks like a banana boat skiff!


It is. I’ll take some measurements tomorrow. Thank you


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## hillcharl (Feb 7, 2011)

flyclimber said:


> I would like some input from some of the minds on here! So far I have found nothing but clean dry foam in the critical area with nothing more than gel coat cracks on the top side with the exception in a couple of areas which are easy to repair. I'm leaning towards finsihing the cleanup and maybe re-working the hatches to get them drier and then just gel-coat and fish. Would save a bunch of time and effort! What does MS think?


If it's clean, dry foam then you should be good to go with the easy repairs and whatever mods you want to make. Then get her back on the water. No sense in reinventing the wheel.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

been thinking on what the wiring should be,
I think this is it. Keyless motor switch and start, two bilge pumps, all resettable breakers, and a water proof enclosure to house almost all the connections. My idea/goal was to have no corrosion issues with wiring for this boat, I’ll probably use a weathertight connector for all components outside of the box, and sealed grommets for getting into the box.


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## SnookFisher (Jun 15, 2021)

flyclimber said:


> been thinking on what the wiring should be,
> I think this is it. Keyless motor switch and start, two bilge pumps, all resettable breakers, and a water proof enclosure to house almost all the connections. My idea/goal was to have no corrosion issues with wiring for this boat, I’ll probably use a weathertight connector for all components outside of the box, and sealed grommets for getting into the box.
> View attachment 183818


I'm new to the boat building/skiff game and have been trying to get a handle on the wiring for the skiff I'm working on, so unfortunately I can't offer you much help. I drew up a wiring diagram for mine, but at the end I couldn't even make out what I had drawn up. You did a great job with the organization of your hand drawn wiring diagram. I plan to re-do mine and model it after this! Thanks for posting


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

SnookFisher said:


> I'm new to the boat building/skiff game and have been trying to get a handle on the wiring for the skiff I'm working on, so unfortunately I can't offer you much help. I drew up a wiring diagram for mine, but at the end I couldn't even make out what I had drawn up. You did a great job with the organization of your hand drawn wiring diagram. I plan to re-do mine and model it after this! Thanks for posting


I’ll post up the cad version of this, when it’s done. That will be much cleaner, just documenting the process!


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

Just a rec for those drawing wiring diagrams… try drawing in ABYC color codes. This will help when tracing the wires on your drawing.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

JC Designs said:


> Just a rec for those drawing wiring diagrams… try drawing in ABYC color codes. This will help when tracing the wires on your drawing.


I was already planning on that for the cad drawing. My penmanship is not great as seen above!


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Got started on the tearing down phase of the repairs this weekend. Router made quick work of the glass and helped build ~10:1 taper for the glass rebuild when the time comes.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Going back and getting deeper. Also picked up some foam from @Jred should be able to start thinking about glassing.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Here’s some forward progress started glassing the front port gunnel first. The other will folks as time allows.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

I’m using wear systems epoxy with fast or slow depending on application. Second picture was to get some hands on practice with two glasses I bought. This doubled as a thickness check per ply to know for later down the road. 
I have a feeling this may be a touch over kill for this repair. Time will tell


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## hillcharl (Feb 7, 2011)

flyclimber said:


> I’m using wear systems epoxy with fast or slow depending on application. Second picture was to get some hands on practice with two glasses I bought. This doubled as a thickness check per ply to know for later down the road.
> I have a feeling this may be a touch over kill for this repair. Time will tell
> View attachment 186130
> View attachment 186131
> View attachment 186132


In my very limited experience, the more you prep the better the project turns out!


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

hillcharl said:


> In my very limited experience, the more you prep the better the project turns out!


Lots of prep work! I think it's like 85% prep and 15% of actual glassing. I had more time getting to start glassing than actually laying down fiberglass. .


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

flyclimber said:


> Lots of prep work! I think it's like 85% prep and 15% of actual glassing. I had more time getting to start glassing than actually laying down fiberglass. .


And when the finish work comes it turns into 98% prep! You got this though!


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Prepping the site for next set of glass. I used a palm sander and a block sander to get most of the waviness out. I’m thinking this will reduce the amount of fairing once this is done. Don’t forget to use water to get rid of the amine bloom if using epoxy resins!


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

More work done after last post. Almost done with the first corner and some work done on the console!


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)




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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

still maintaining about a 5:1 taper. Almost ready to glass the repair from the outside the inner side will be a lot less fun!


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Happy thanks giving from Tennessee! Here is a new jig for the router for starting faring work.


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## MikeChamp12 (May 17, 2021)

flyclimber said:


> Happy thanks giving from Tennessee! Here is a new jig for the router for starting faring work.
> View attachment 189541
> 
> View attachment 189539
> ...


How does this exactly work?


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

MikeChamp12 said:


> How does this exactly work?


Router with likely 1/2” router bit and the wheels will provide a profile cut that should reduce a fair amount of the sanding effort. It’s much easier to cut glass than sand, especially when you can dial in the router. I think it’s also be especially useful for the repairs on the pad when we flip the hull


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## MikeChamp12 (May 17, 2021)

Okay I get it now. That’s slick


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

Lookin good brother, slick jig


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Here’s one corner almost complete.


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## SMG (Dec 4, 2021)

Looking good!


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)




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## bob_esper (Jun 3, 2021)

flyclimber said:


> Happy thanks giving from Tennessee! Here is a new jig for the router for starting faring work.
> View attachment 189541
> 
> View attachment 189539
> ...


Where abouts in TN are you from? Im in Tullahoma


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

bob_esper said:


> Where abouts in TN are you from? Im in Tullahoma


Family lives in Cookeville. Boat is in Jax fl


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## bob_esper (Jun 3, 2021)

I have family in cookeville as well, small world. Ah, i was hoping to find someone else around here with a skiff. Build looks like she's going well. Best of luck with it.


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## MikeChamp12 (May 17, 2021)

Looking good


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## MikeChamp12 (May 17, 2021)

What’s the plan with the console? I’m at the same stage with a coffin box.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

MikeChamp12 said:


> What’s the plan with the console? I’m at the same stage with a coffin box.


 the plan is to cut off the flanged base and add a foot relief like the chittum and the high end skiffs have. Then Glass in the console. Should have plenty of room for battery and accessories


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## Jrich91 (Oct 26, 2021)

Following. Looks great so far. Always liked the lines on those boats.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

More progress has been made.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)




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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Had a retired coworker help me out welding up the tank with a new fitting. Also found an air pocket and delaminated area on port side of the cockpit. Who know how long it’s been there but it would explain the spider cracks. It’ll all get epoxied back with fresh glass and fair back to whole. The corner gussets will also get glasses it! Hopefully better than new!


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## MikeChamp12 (May 17, 2021)

Looking good.


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## Rookiemistake (Jan 30, 2013)

Looks good you still in the same area? I wouldnt mind coming by and helping.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Last week of vacation and back to real work like. Progress will definitely slow way back but I think the real bulk head is completely back together. I also started adding the corner gussets and glassing those in.
To those more knowledgeable what would be the best option for paint/gel coat? I’m leaning to gel coat with the rolling/tipping additive with more sanding lol I’ve also seen really nice things with Alex seal. I don’t know if I have it in the cards for spraying equipment right now.


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

I don't have experience rolling it on, but I was really happy with Alexseal. It sprayed nicely, and the customer service was top notch.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

bryson said:


> I don't have experience rolling it on, but I was really happy with Alexseal. It sprayed nicely, and the customer service was top notch.


How does it hold up to oysters? We’re you worried about the bottom side with blisters?


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

flyclimber said:


> How does it hold up to oysters? We’re you worried about the bottom side with blisters?


No blisters to be seen, and I've left it in the water for a full week before (although that was before the oyster scratches).

I'd say it holds up to oysters as well as I expected, possibly better. I expected more of the scratches to be all the way through the paint, but most aren't. I try to avoid oysters when it's convenient, but I'm definitely not afraid to push over them if I have to (at the end of the day, the skiff is a tool that gets used, not some show piece). I've definitely poled across some really gnarly live beds that felt like they would cut the dang boat in half. The bottom of the boat shows that it's clearly been fished shallow. The paint seems to scratch about like gelcoat, but I have seen no peeling of the paint around the scratch.

I'm pleased with the durability so far and would choose to use it again if I were painting another.


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## MikeChamp12 (May 17, 2021)

I’ll be rolling alexseal on my skiff in a couple weeks. I’ll keep you posted if you don’t beat me to it.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

MikeChamp12 said:


> I’ll be rolling alexseal on my skiff in a couple weeks. I’ll keep you posted if you don’t beat me to it.


I won’t be beating you there 😅 too slow for that. My shoulders hasn’t fallen off yet from the fairing yet


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

MikeChamp12 said:


> I’ll be rolling alexseal on my skiff in a couple weeks. I’ll keep you posted if you don’t beat me to it.


If you haven't seen this Boatworks Today video, give it a look.


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## MikeChamp12 (May 17, 2021)

Hahaha that’s what made me go with Alexseal. That guys YouTube channel is great. @Sublime


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Sublime said:


> If you haven't seen this Boatworks Today video, give it a look.


Exactly the same boat. 👍🏻


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

bryson said:


> No blisters to be seen, and I've left it in the water for a full week before (although that was before the oyster scratches).
> 
> I'd say it holds up to oysters as well as I expected, possibly better. I expected more of the scratches to be all the way through the paint, but most aren't. I try to avoid oysters when it's convenient, but I'm definitely not afraid to push over them if I have to (at the end of the day, the skiff is a tool that gets used, not some show piece). I've definitely poled across some really gnarly live beds that felt like they would cut the dang boat in half. The bottom of the boat shows that it's clearly been fished shallow. The paint seems to scratch about like gelcoat, but I have seen no peeling of the paint around the scratch.
> 
> I'm pleased with the durability so far and would choose to use it again if I were painting another.





MikeChamp12 said:


> I’ll be rolling alexseal on my skiff in a couple weeks. I’ll keep you posted if you don’t beat me to it.


After talking to the Alex seal guys it seems the top side would be a great fit. But the hull seems to be a different story. Would be weird to prep the bottom and roll/apply new colored gel coat to the bottom? Getting colors to match will be a little rough I think. Rub rail would break that up I think.


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

flyclimber said:


> After talking to the Alex seal guys it seems the top side would be a great fit. But the hull seems to be a different story. Would be weird to prep the bottom and roll/apply new colored gel coat to the bottom? Getting colors to match will be a little rough I think. Rub rail would break that up I think.


Interested to hear what they told you would be the issue -- they didn't make me feel there would be any concern at all, although my boat does live pretty strictly on a trailer (other than a few occasions a year where it might sit in the water for <5 days at a time).


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## MikeChamp12 (May 17, 2021)

Hmmmmm other than keeping it in the water for long periods of time is all I read about.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

All he said was their coating were made for waterline and up. I wanted to do camping trips in the glades and a yearly keys trip and the boat may be wet slipped? Any ideas on how long before you would start to see issues with the alex seal?


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Threw down some more glass yesterday. Was a bit iffy about it after check my garage temp vs Jax air temp. Got the corner foam in and more on the corner to get that nice radius back. Should be getting close on the front of it. Got a new sander coming in today for the inside of the rear hatches!


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Got around to sanding more last night. Getting close to being good enough on this radius. It’s got a fair amount of glass now. Also purchase a new sanding tool for the rear hatches that need some fresh glass put down


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## Pepechorizo (Sep 5, 2013)

flyclimber said:


> It won’t be fast but it will be thorough! The hull is a 1981 Super Skiff. It is wood hull with delams and wet wood all thru the transom and hull.
> View attachment 181922
> View attachment 181923
> 
> ...


a south Florida classic


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## MikeChamp12 (May 17, 2021)

I love that tool.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Today was a big milestone. Almost done with the rear port storage hatch. Been working to upgrade the glassing organization and process.

For this round I used a piece of acrylic for cutting and then glassing prep. Lots of sanding/grinding/layout to get this glassing done.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Fin. 3 plies of 10 oz down I added corner pieces to help the transition in the vertical corner ending piece was 4” From corner on either side


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## MikeChamp12 (May 17, 2021)

Hell yeah. What did you decide to paint with?


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

https://www.microskiff.com/cdn-cgi/image/format=auto,onerror=redirect,width=1920,height=1920,fit=scale-down/https://www.microskiff.com/attachments/59368b37-c99f-4f42-9e42-22cd4abc01de-jpeg.57228/



Pretty sure it’s going to be axel seal on top and touch up gel coat on the bottom. Guide green/sea foam on top with white Matterhorn hull.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

sanded down to much flatter than what it was. 
























Pictures are out of order but I didn’t see this bubble form when I left it to cure I think this may because the resin flowed a bit after I left it no problem I will just sand it off and throw more glass down on top


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## MikeChamp12 (May 17, 2021)

Try injecting with a syringe. If it’s that little spot on the vertical side. Looking nice and flat


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

It’s also important to note that with epoxy you need to use warm water after it’s cured to remove the amine bloom. I always do a warm wash then acetone before sanding and after sanding surfaces.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

My wife scored huge! She found a set of used FMT chips and then found a simrad nss evo 12! We ended up saving about $700 on the package we may send the chips off to get the latest and greatest data later on


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

started sanding on the starboard The new sanding tool rips some glass.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

MikeChamp12 said:


> Try injecting with a syringe. If it’s that little spot on the vertical side. Looking nice and flat


It looks like a bubble that had fallen from the wall. Really strange. I don’t mine throwing more glass at it especially since it is rough sanded flat


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Back at it. We have a goal of fish able by late June.
The process I’ve been doing for this hatches that has been working so far. I use neat epoxy first to wet out the surface I’m going to be either filleting. Then mix in the filler to peanut butter consistency and paddle it in. Clean up the fillet and wait about an hour till it’s got a low tackiness. Wet out whole glassing surface with neat epoxy and then lay the glass down on the black plastic bag and wet it out. After it’s saturated I transfer it into location. Using sharpie dots helps. Repeat till all pieces are landed. Then with a little more neat epoxy I made sure all surfaces are wet out and roll out with the little epoxy roller. I’m using 10 oz glass cut to 4”, 6” and the the 8” I added three 2” wide piece in the vertical corner


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Also here’s the final piece on the port side. Don’t think it needs anything more. Just a bit of fairing.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Since it was raining I cleared the boat off for a deep cleanse. Got rid of any old oily or moldy surface in the bow and the hatches as much as I could. Now to let it air dry. It’s kinda looks like a real boat! I took it to our local weigh out of curiosity. The hull and trailer weigh about 1100 lbs, going to keep tabs on how much it adds as we continue the build more fairing work to be done later today.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Here’s a picture of how the repairs are being done. I’ll add that I’ve been putting more glass down and then cutting/sanding it down to fair. Cutting is so much easier than sanding.


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## SISW (Apr 21, 2011)

flyclimber said:


> View attachment 182016
> Console, electrical, steering all out. Next up fuel and thinking of a way to remove cap. I think this may have had some sort of rebuild in the past as the deck is foam not wood. Still crushed in places tho.


Those Superskiffs are battle worthy. Cant wait to see the final result.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

SISW said:


> Those Superskiffs are battle worthy. Cant wait to see the final result.


My wife can’t wait either 😅


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

more repairs! This is on the rear starboard side. Filling in all the holes in this deck should be hopefully coming to a close soon! One hole left on the rear port side. Router jigs and sanding has been pretty close to fair.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

I went back to the deck for now and routered in small areas and went back and sanded around them to add a little bit of glass to strengthen the holes I filled with thickened epoxy. I added some pencil lines to track my sanding in preparation for fairing work. Then vacuum, rinse with water, total boat dewaxer and surface prep, and a final wash with acetone.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

I should add I have been always taking neat epoxy and wiping with a Squeegee this ensures any pinholes or small cracks get filled in first before the repair begins. I added to the tool library as well it’s pretty slick this flexi sander the so far minimal amounts of fairing material is required to get the deck nice and smooth! Especiallly around the corner repairs which make me much happier! The cool router jig paid off.


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## MikeChamp12 (May 17, 2021)

Looking good!! How do you like that flexisander? Do you plan on spraying or rolling?


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

MikeChamp12 said:


> Looking good!! How do you like that flexisander? Do you plan on spraying or rolling?


 my brain loves the results but my shoulders hate the process!

I ended up getting the 22” long one, finding sandpaper was not easy but I managed to order thru Jamestown distributors for 60 and the120


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## hillcharl (Feb 7, 2011)

Great job. She will be better than new when you're finished!


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

More sanding and fairing. It’s pretty dang close to fair before this last application of fairing compound.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Hopefully last bit of fairing on the bow. It was pretty close before. Lots of sanding cleaning and pushing that flexi sander around. I’m really liking the results.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Fairing in the deck. I’m thoroughly impressed by quality sandpaper. It’s cut so much cleaner than lower quality. But I’m very stoked on how the deck came out. Should be good enough for non skid. Should be said, I can’t feel the shiny spots and In brighter shop lights you can’t see them, this was the finish after a fresh pad was done with the flexi sander no DA run over it.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

don’t think I’ll get sick of this view.


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## Backcountry 16 (Mar 15, 2016)

flyclimber said:


> Fairing in the deck. I’m thoroughly impressed by quality sandpaper. It’s cut so much cleaner than lower quality. But I’m very stoked on how the deck came out. Should be good enough for non skid. Should be said, I can’t feel the shiny spots and In brighter shop lights you can’t see them, this was the finish after a fresh pad was done with the flexi sander no DA run over it.
> View attachment 201742
> 
> View attachment 201743
> ...


Looking good buddy


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## MikeChamp12 (May 17, 2021)

Hell yeah


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Prop is all freshened up. Some of the motor part come in this week as well.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

glassing the underside of the deck. Overhead glassing is not nearly as fun. I made sure that everything is really wet out. I followed the same procedure as if it was anywhere else. Neat epoxy followed immediately by thickened epoxy and wait 30 minutes. Then laid the glass with neat epoxy down on top. This should yield a great chemical bond with the thickened epoxy and the core underneath.


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Yeah, that would not be any fun.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Sublime said:


> Yeah, that would not be any fun.


I did learn that if you got epoxy in your hair, rub in olive oil then shower with soap and water.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

wow, you really took on a project. much respect. have you decided on paint or gelcoat for the bottom?


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Right now paint topside and gel coat bottom. But it may turn into just paint both sides depending on how well others that are using alexseal are holding up. 
@bryson


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

I've been impressed with the Alexseal. Got some deep scratches, sure, but I think those would have gouged up gelcoat pretty heavily too. Only difference is maybe the gelcoat being thicker, you might not have gone all the way through? Tough to compare, since my only gelcoated boats have been older. I will say that I tend to scrape lots and lots of oysters, and I don't regret my decision at this point, but I've only been fishing her with paint for a year or so. One thing I've been really pleased with is that the paint is not chipping or peeling around the scratches. I also keep the boat in the water for a full week at a time during my Keys trips each year, and haven't had any ill effects below the waterline.

Bottom line is I think the paint is at least as hard as gelcoat (probably harder), but it's not as thick. I didn't want to risk any adhesion issues with gelcoat, so I went with Alexseal. I was thrilled with how it went down, too. I don't think I would have been able to spray gel nearly as nicely.


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

bryson said:


> I've been impressed with the Alexseal. Got some deep scratches, sure, but I think those would have gouged up gelcoat pretty heavily too. Only difference is maybe the gelcoat being thicker, you might not have gone all the way through? Tough to compare, since my only gelcoated boats have been older. I will say that I tend to scrape lots and lots of oysters, and I don't regret my decision at this point, but I've only been fishing her with paint for a year or so. One thing I've been really pleased with is that the paint is not chipping or peeling around the scratches. I also keep the boat in the water for a full week at a time during my Keys trips each year, and haven't had any ill effects below the waterline.
> 
> Bottom line is I think the paint is at least as hard as gelcoat (probably harder), but it's not as thick. I didn't want to risk any adhesion issues with gelcoat, so I went with Alexseal. I was thrilled with how it went down, too. I don't think I would have been able to spray gel nearly as nicely.


I'll buy you a Southwest ticket and you can come spray mine.


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

Sublime said:


> I'll buy you a Southwest ticket and you can come spray mine.


Okay but I'm leaving before we have to sand out the runs and sags!


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Not a huge change but I trimmed about an inch off the gunnel whales height should help with rod storage as well as make the boat a little bit more modern.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

I would gelcoat. there are great 2 part urethane paints out there but they are still paint. gelcoat is tough and the outside needs to be tough. rubbing on dock lines, hell rubbing on docks. scraping bottom, rubbing on rollers and bunks. paints can peel.

gel can be rolled but to get it to look perfect you have to wet sand the crap out of it and buff. compared to what you've been doing that would probably seem easy to you. to do that you have to get it on thick.

or you can spray. spraying with duretec clear high gloss additive works well if you don't have opacity issues. but, with all the repairs you are doing you are going to have major opacity issues. the duretec I'm pretty sure is just a high tech fancy clear polyester gelcoat you mix 50/50 with your color. if you have patching or fairing material of differing colors the Duretec thins the color out to the point that it will not cover without a bunch of coats. if your putting a light color over a light base you are good or vice versa.

I sprayed a transom after patching holes and it took a lot to get the patches to cover. in hindsight I should have done a coat without duretec first. or just skipped the duretec altogether. I don't regret using it though, it gives a great finish.

I used an old Sharpe cup gun with a 2.0mm nozzle to spray the gelcoat. it worked well as the duretec thins the gel quite a bit. for straight gel you want a gun with at least a 2.5mm or even a 3.0mm nozzle. you can get one for a reasonable price.

keep in mind that all gelcoat needs some wet sanding, buffing and polishing. it's just a lot less work when you spray. it may seem counter intuitive but when you spray straight gelcoat you want orange peel. it will sand out but it means it went on thick.

Search results for: 'spray gun' (fiberglassflorida.com)

Gelcoat Resin Spray Gun 3.0mm Nozzle w/1.0 Liter Aluminum Cup (bottompaintstore.com)


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Oh joy more sanding 😂. You’re completely write as far as gel coating it’s a toss up right now. May come down to cost and timing


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

I didn’t feel like sanding for a minute and cracked into the fuel system. Lots of crystals. Should be cleaned up now. I have some more parts coming soon to finish the fuel system on the motor. Maybe be able to fire it up and test some electrical wiring.


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

A little Seafoam would have cleaned that right up!


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Sublime said:


> A little Seafoam would have cleaned that right up!


😂 those crystals were at least 2 carrots a piece.


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## Fatfishguide (Aug 4, 2013)

flyclimber said:


> It won’t be fast but it will be thorough! The hull is a 1981 Super Skiff. It is wood hull with delams and wet wood all thru the transom and hull.
> View attachment 181922
> View attachment 181923
> 
> ...


Super cool boats


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

anyone round Jax have a spanner wrench for a Yamaha? I have the whole top of the lower unit cleaned up and fresh seals


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Last night I got the carbs all hooked back up and all the electric connected. After one simple check on the kill switch the motor fired back to life on some of the ugliest spark plugs I’ve seen. I’m hoping the idle will get better after they get swapped out.

Instagram Link here.


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## John Stark (9 mo ago)

flyclimber said:


> It won’t be fast but it will be thorough! The hull is a 1981 Super Skiff. It is wood hull with delams and wet wood all thru the transom and hull.
> View attachment 181922
> View attachment 181923
> 
> ...


Classic boat!!!


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Starboard side has all 18 holes patched up on the inside backed up with 30 oz of glass


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

For those who are running hydraulic Steering, I want to buy probably the baystar kit and get the correct length hoses instead of premade ones. Is there anyone else that is worth looking into?


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Sanding and prepping the port side for glass next.


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

Nice dude, I’m gettin tired just looking at all that work


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

I think I’m going to have to modify my transom and motor well area. I don’t have enough space to fit the sea star system I want to put in. I’ll probably lay it out tonight and fix it this weekend.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Port side all glassed up and feathered out!


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Was also able to get Both gunnels about 80-90% faired in.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

I would definitely recommend if anyone starts a fiberglass project get organized and have a dedicated place to lay up and wet out the glass before it goes on the boat. This has really helped for the times I was laying up by myself.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

And for the final push this weekend I took the plunge and modified the console to add about 4-4.5” to the height. IT’s starting to look like a real boat.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

I’m planning on modding the motor well tonight. Seems like I need 22” inside dimensions to make the hydraulic steering cylinder clear. Not cutting that transom just the deck and the inside wall a bit and glass it all back together.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Game time.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

But first before primer I have to knock out this mod. Got the sides cut out and I think I’ll just slip in pieces and glass the heck out of it. The glass around this area was thinner than I had thought.


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## MikeChamp12 (May 17, 2021)

Hell yeah


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Almost done sanding for the prep.


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## MikeChamp12 (May 17, 2021)

Looking good. You’re making some good progress.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Spent most of those day sanding, with a bit of mixing and glassing we have a new motor well.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Wouldn’t be complete without seeing if a mock up of the motor and steering system. Should be a nice snug fit. No MORE steering cable! Feels good! Still need to glass in thr under side but it’s great step in the right direction.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Mock up of the helm with the motor in place. And some fairing compound down.


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## hillcharl (Feb 7, 2011)

That looks very clean. Great job!


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## Bubbarjh (May 20, 2021)

Following


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Sanded thru some spots. So I just added more glass. Should fair out pretty nicely now.


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## Tarpon2023 (8 mo ago)

I have really enjoyed following this


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Finally got the motor well sanded in and fairing compound applied.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Also sneak peak of the sea foam color.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Front hatch getting close to paint.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Couldn’t wait any longer. First round of paint in the front hatch.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Some other goodies and electric testing going on. These switches are pretty dang cool.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Hoping my buried in a hatch work is coming to a close. But I doubt it.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Corner fillets are cleaned up and glassed.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Hatches are cleaned up and painted at least the middle in the rear and a second coat in the front hatch.


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## albrighty_then (Jan 11, 2017)

Awesome work man. I'm working on a resto as well have the same motor. Glasswork is top notch your gonna have a sweet ride.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Maybe the last round of fairing? I love the tools I’ve got. Took around 30 minutes to fair in all four corners to near perfect.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Alexseal high build down.


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## Littlefish (11 mo ago)

What would those tools be to make those perfect corners?


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Littlefish said:


> What would those tools be to make those perfect corners?


A lot of prep work. Started with coarsely cut foam that was trimmed to shape with a router and a jig, glassed and then faired with a plastic tube to get the shape close and finish with hand sanding blocks.
Ill post pics of the tools used for reference.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

I had some down time with the wait time for the second coat of high build and I wanted to check the motor well fitment.
We are very good and clear. Will continue on with fairing and priming.


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## MikeChamp12 (May 17, 2021)

How’d you like that super build? I loved the way it sprayed and sanded.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

MikeChamp12 said:


> How’d you like that super build? I loved the way it sprayed and sanded.


Rolled out pretty well. I didn’t thin enough of the first coat but the second I added closer to the top of the range and it came out really nice. I’ll probably let it set up for a day or two then sand it down.

at least now I have only one color on the deck.


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

Man, I wasn't gone for very long and I feel like I missed a ton of work. Looking great! You're really knocking this stuff out.


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## MikeChamp12 (May 17, 2021)

Looking good.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Here’s the texture from rolling the high build out.


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

I didn’t get a close up of my rolled on high build but it wasn’t that textured. One thing for sure is I’ve been working hard to sand all the guide coat out. I think part of that is the texture it left from rolling it on.


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## jonny (May 1, 2007)

Welcome to my world!
Putting it on and taking it off sums a lot of my days😂


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## Littlefish (11 mo ago)

I thought that was non-skid.


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

I will be spraying the high build when I flip the skiff over to fair the top. I should have been able to sand the guide coat off in 2-3 hours. I'm about 8 hours into it.


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## MikeChamp12 (May 17, 2021)

Dang the roller textured it pretty good. Hope it works out.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

I’m not too worried about it. I think it’s that textured because I was a bit shy on the reducer on the first coat. I’ll be sanding it down today with the guide coat.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

I spent about 2 hrs today sanding using the flexi sander to make sure I’m hitting it all down uniformly. Then about 30 minute sanding with the orbital with a fresh guide coat. I’ve got probably 80% of the texture out and only burned thru in 2 to 3 spots total so far.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

More work done tonight.
I think final sanding of the high build. Will probably put one more coat down tomorrow or the weekend. But it really dang smooth with very little low spots/pin holes. You can see I found more high spots though which should be okay.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Also got most all of the cracks and holes filled where the rub rail will be going.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

the last item was to add some fairing compound down on the rear starboard.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Should I throw another layer of high build down and call it down after sanding or call it now and get it ready for final primer?


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

We’ll no highbuild went down this weekend but more fairing and the final hole in the deck is patch up and flattened ready for fairing compound.


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## MikeChamp12 (May 17, 2021)

flyclimber said:


> Should I throw another layer of high build down and call it down after sanding or call it now and get it ready for final primer?


 I put 3 fat coats down on mine, did me just right. The 442 finish primer appreciated it.


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

I rolled on 3 thick coats of high build. It has been impossible not to sand back down to glass or fairing in some spots. 442 finish primer hopefully this weekend.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

man, I hope this is a labor of love and you keep it after this much work.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

devrep said:


> man, I hope this is a labor of love and you keep it after this much work.


That’s the plan so far. Unless someone wants to pay my hourly rate for the hours I’ve put into it 😅


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## TidewateR (Nov 11, 2009)

really enjoyed reading through the restoration.

Keep up the hard work. The skiff looks great

Curious how the water will drain in that motor well. Will you be adding drain holes on each side, so it can drain to the bilge?


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

I’ll probably put fairing compound down on the back port side and any touch up on the run rail that were too low. If I’m motivated I’ll start on the 40+ holes along the chines and glass those in.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

TidewateR said:


> really enjoyed reading through the restoration.
> 
> Keep up the hard work. The skiff looks great
> 
> Curious how the water will drain in that motor well. Will you be adding drain holes on each side, so it can drain to the bilge?


Holes will be added for sure. I’ll be adding similar drainage to the hatch gutters as well.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Got half the holes on the outsides of the hull glassed back together. Had cracks in the laminate that I sanded around. Anything deeper than that was cut out with the Dremel. As always I applied neat epoxy first with a brush, come back over with thickened epoxy with a paddle to ensure there’s no low spots or air bubbles from sanding or the dremel work.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Yesterday I wasted like 3 hours of sanding trying to get a smooth radius from the deck to where the rub rail will be with no success. So I made a corner fillet jig to help apply the fairing compound. Came out much more uniform so far.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Here’s my favorite touch so far on the boat. These corner cockpit fillets.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Whew lots of cleaning and sanding. Time for more high build. Before and afters.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Third and hopefully final coat of high build.


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## MikeChamp12 (May 17, 2021)

Super stoked looking good. You’ll like rolling that finish primer 442. It’s a lot thinner than that super build. Did you get any alexseal 5018 additive?


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

MikeChamp12 said:


> Super stoked looking good. You’ll like rolling that finish primer 442. It’s a lot thinner than that super build. Did you get any alexseal 5018 additive?


Pretty sure I’ve got the little can. Haven’t used any yet


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Our sea dek is approved! I need to get cracking on the area this lands in.


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## hillcharl (Feb 7, 2011)

That Sea Dek is going to look awesome!


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Got some more sanding done. I think that deck is done. Couple low spots that I can’t see without good light or guide coat. I did two rounds of guide coat with flexi sander first then came back with a final round of guide coat with DA to get the big scratches out. All done at 150/180


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Here a snippet of how it looks now 

Link Here


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## fishn&flyn (Oct 23, 2015)

Just love following this project awesome work! I’m not sure if I’m going to be happy or sad when it’s done, been so much fun watching!


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Some more work in progress. Port under gunnel fairing applied. I’ve been trying to improve my application. When I rush or apply poorly I spend a bunch of time trying to fix it. So I really tried to make it smooth during the wiping on.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Beefing up the floor to rear bull head. Had some cracks in the gel coat from before and didn’t want them coming back.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Really shaping up like a real boat got another good clean done today. My process has been a water scrub down with green scotch bright pad followed by a scrub down with simple green and the same scotch bright pad. Lots of the fine particles get picked up by the pad and water.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

For finishing work this paper is pretty nice. Almost no pig tails and cuts very clean.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

These are tool that I feel like have paid for themselves.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

not too much work done with vacation and work. Fairing compound applied inside the cockpit now


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Got some sanding done on the hull this past week.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

last night I started the final portion of the deck the hatch gutters. Kinda been dreading this part due to very tight quarters and not a lot of nice looking things that needed cleaned up. Lots of cracking gel coat/ paint. My desire to make things straight and square backfired. I used the router to accomplish this and found lots of air pockets in the laminate. Probably going to need to get clever on how to repair this.


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

Starting to come together


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Switching gears a bit but I want to understand the painting process and steps involved for the painting process. So I begin the hatches (being reused) sanded them all down last night. Not to ingenious but I used sand paper stuck down to my workbench to keep them in place. Still have some repairs on these but shouldn’t take too long. Two are also warped but I think I have a game plan for fixing those .


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

More hatch work.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

I think this first hatch should be all flat again. Put it on my piece of acrylic and it had no bow in it. So it would seem grinding off some of the glass on the back helped. One layer of 1700 bi-ax in the trough and two 10 oz pieces to cover the whole back. I’ll probably rinse and repeat on the other hatches


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## SouthernAngler (7 mo ago)

*Flyclimber*

I see you use cloth over your biax, Ive always used 1.5 oz CSM. Is there a preference for using cloth ? Im not question your process I'm hoping to learn something new. You're doing a great job & I look forward to your new updates. Your work bench look just like mine, 10' long with stuff stacked everywhere and just a small corner to get the work done. 


View attachment 211516


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

SouthernAngler said:


> *Flyclimber*
> 
> I see you use cloth over your biax, Ive always used 1.5 oz CSM. Is there a preference for using cloth ? Im not question your process I'm hoping to learn something new. You're doing a great job & I look forward to your new updates. Your work bench look just like mine, 10' long with stuff stacked everywhere and just a small corner to get the work done.
> 
> ...


I’m using epoxy for all these repairs and CSM doesn’t really play well with epoxy, much better suited for polyester resin. There’s a binder for those fibers that get melted with poly that epoxy doesn’t have.
I was using the biax to ease the transition from the foam to the vertical surfaces. Then back it up with the cloth to share the load to the topside of the foam, the cloth has pretty good drape and forms nicely to the corners.

yes I had to push a bunch of craparound to fit in one tiny little corner.


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## SouthernAngler (7 mo ago)

flyclimber said:


> I’m using epoxy for all these repairs and CSM doesn’t really play well with epoxy, much better suited for polyester resin. There’s a binder for those fibers that get melted with poly that epoxy doesn’t have.
> I was using the biax to ease the transition from the foam to the vertical surfaces. Then back it up with the cloth to share the load to the topside of the foam, the cloth has pretty good drape and forms nicely to the corners.


That makes total sense now. Thanks


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

More prep work. More glass should be here today.


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## emilio19 (5 mo ago)

It’s coming along!


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

emilio19 said:


> It’s coming along!


certainly lots of sweat so far.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Sanding gutters sucks, more forward progress is made


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## jonny (May 1, 2007)

flyclimber said:


> Sanding gutters sucks, more forward progress is made
> 
> 
> 
> View attachment 212312


My absolute most hated task. I have sanded angles in my fingernails on several occasions. Not fun for my arthritic hands.👎


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Man those Dolphins are cool. I’ll be watching this


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Weekend progress. More gutter work. Should make a huge improvement. Found some more air pockets. But they’re all ground out and glassed back together.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

More prep.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

And the rebuilding.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

I want all the gutters to land at the same heights so I used the router as a test and it seams to be working good.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

I also cleaned up the boat with a good wash down and threw down some fairing compound down in the cockpit.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

I added a thickened epoxy border, hoping this will give me enough to sand on to make solid landing for the hatches.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

what a huge undertaking. putting this skiff back in service is great. it's somewhat disillusioning to see all the fubars the original builder made.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

devrep said:


> what a huge undertaking. putting this skiff back in service is great. it's somewhat disillusioning to see all the fubars the original builder made.


I will say a good majority haven’t really been issues, more discoveries made along the way while I making the skiff look the way I want. There are some areas where sub par repairs were made. Probably not from original manufacture. It’s an 1981 boat. It’s going to have some history history behind it. I am dancing on the line of cleaning up the boat to make it function better and still keep some of old skiff non-perfect features.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Some dreaded fairing work done in the cockpit.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

I figured out what gaskets I want plush the squish I think will be right. I’ll probably test it before paint to be sure. Hit the mark I was aiming at. Engineering is just educated guess work anyway.


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## bubba110 (Oct 5, 2016)

Very nice work. Looking forward to seeing your final product.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

So slight change in the seals. Went with 5/8” instead of 7/16 so there is a shorter flange in the gutter but a better sealing gasket. So I took off a bit more and then routered all the hatches.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Most of today was spent sanding on the Dang hatch channels. Getting smoother and closer to paint.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

one thing I noticed (since it’s raining outside) is water doesn’t drip or run into the cockpit from the bow. If I had a deck hatch I would get more water in the boat. But as it sits most all that water runs off the boat.
Kinda cool!


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Since we’re getting closer to paint we sent the poling platform off to power coat. Matt black. Looks soooo good!


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

One more side project. Front bulkhead hatch.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Here is the flange I plan on putting the gasket onto that should be around 1/4” thick. After trimmed up I should still be able to slide the gas tank in and out. 
Whole bunch of glass. 1 10 oz layer, a 30 oz woven, two layers of 17 oz bi-axial and then one more corner piece of 10 oz. One cure I’ll trim to the right shape land it with wood screw and thickened epoxy and then glass in place.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

We’ll it demolded very easy. I’ll trim it once it’s a little bit more cured.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Here is the materials for the door itself. I’m really considering order some carbon for a skin since it’ll be front smack dab in the front of the skiff. May look really sick.


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## MikeChamp12 (May 17, 2021)

Damn nice work


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Ain’t much but we got some high build down in the cockpit. Probably could have used more fairing work but I wanted to keep pushing foreword.


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

flyclimber said:


> Ain’t much but we got some high build down in the cockpit. Probably could have used more fairing work but I wanted to keep pushing foreword.


That's where I'm at. Push forward !


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Got the last two coats of Alex seal high build down. Looks pretty good. Wasn’t really meticulous with this one as it’s a floor and most will get sanded off. But should bring some of the lows up. I’ll let it sit for a day or two while is hardens up.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Edge seals finally showed up. Looks and feels like a good squeeze. Should be pretty close to water tight. 
gotta finish trimming and getting everything cleaned up.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Pics


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Picked up some interlux perfection plus for front hatch carbon.


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

The samples that I chose. The real ones may be here Monday.


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## hillcharl (Feb 7, 2011)

That hex pattern looks pretty cool


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## jonny (May 1, 2007)

Looking good man you are on the home stretch now. All that sanding is the worst of it for me. It’s fun putting all back and rigging it out


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Hatch is curing now. Pretty happy with how this came out so far. 
Laminate went as follows : 10 oz woven, 2x 17 oz biax, foam core with thickened epoxy, 10 oz woven, 1 17 oz biax, 1 17 oz biax window frame around the foam, and final layer of 17 oz biax should be really close to bullet proof.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Here is the landing for the hatch getting fitted. Should be able to get it glassed in today. I had just enough epoxy to finish the hatch.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

I’ll be honest I couldn’t wait to get the hatch in place. This is where the carbon will be.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Got suprise with a box from composite envisions. Man carbon is so sharp looking.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

And of course we’re going to lay them up.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Some very ugly difficult glasswork and final trimming to fit the front hatch in place.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Little bit of touch up done on the lower portions of the front hatch. Used painters tape as a form to squeeze the resin into. Should be able to sand it all smooth tonight or this weekend.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

ran the motor again. Was afraid of the gas going bad in the carbs, even tho it was seafoam with ethinol free. Swapped spark plugs and it started and idled much better. I had an alarm sound after a while on the muff. Took the thermostats out and it sounded the alarm again after a bit more idling. Probably the really old crusty water pump need replacing.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Got the final round of carbon Samples in.








im really liking the one on the left so far. The one on the right is gorgeous just not on a boat.


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## Tarponhead (Mar 18, 2018)

I agree, nice but not over powering. Kind of classic looking. That will add a sense of precision and no expense spared.

If you have time, could you sketch out a cross section of how that hatch sits in the bulkhead, and the hinges. Not sure I totally get it. Will pressure from the lock clamping it be the only thing keeping it from rattling?


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Prepping front hatch with fairing compound. Have the black die for the back ground behind the carbon to hide the green.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Tarponhead said:


> I agree, nice but not over powering. Kind of classic looking. That will add a sense of precision and no expense spared.
> 
> If you have time, could you sketch out a cross section of how that hatch sits in the bulkhead, and the hinges. Not sure I totally get it. Will pressure from the lock clamping it be the only thing keeping it from rattling?


I believe so. The gasket is getting squished pretty good. Or so it’s designed. I may end up having a second latch so it’s in the upper corners of the hatch.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

I’m working thru the rear hatches. One is mostly complete. Looks so good


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## Tarponhead (Mar 18, 2018)

flyclimber said:


> I believe so. The gasket is getting squished pretty good. Or so it’s designed. I may end up having a second latch so it’s in the upper corners of the hatch.


Duh! I got it now. I knew it was going to be obvious when I saw it. I was thinking the contact surface of the gasket was sitting on Top of the mounting opening, not on the side of it. Lack of familiarity with that gasket was the issue. 
thanks for taking the time to draw that. I will remember that solution and hopefully use it soon.


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## MikeChamp12 (May 17, 2021)

That carbon is gonna be sick. Looking forward to it


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Hopefully final round of fairing for the front hatch.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

More hatch work. Final tool was a dremel to aggressively scratch up old gel coat off. Most all the hatch webs are to size now and corners are buffed in so the gaskets fit nice and tight. Going to clean it really well and put thickened epoxy with home made milled fibers in next to have a more structural first round of fairing.


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## SouthernAngler (7 mo ago)

flyclimber said:


> Hopefully final round of fairing for the front hatch.
> View attachment 215632


*FlyClimber - *Why the masking tape ? I assume you might want to only fair certain small areas but then I see you also skimmed a lot in the open area of the middle. Why not tight wipe the entire thing?


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

SouthernAngler said:


> *FlyClimber - *Why the masking tape ? I assume you might want to only fair certain small areas but then I see you also skimmed a lot in the open area of the middle. Why not tight wipe the entire thing?


The idea was that I could sand on just those areas and have about .003” before sanding back into my already fair surface. Basically like a very noticeable depth gauge


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Thickened epoxy with glass in and rough sanded. I think it’s good enough for hatch work. I’ll throw down some fairing compound to smooth it out but that’s after I get all the dust cleaned up.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Got all the hatches smothered in fairing compound. Can’t wait to turn myself and garage green.


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Any tricks you are planning to use to reach in the gutters to sand? This is one of the next tasks for me and my fingers are not looking forward to it.


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Sublime said:


> Any tricks you are planning to use to reach in the gutters to sand? This is one of the next tasks for me and my fingers are not looking forward to it.


Got a bunch of tools now. I’ve made sanding blocks that will do the bottom radius and flat and then I use a router with a flapper very carefully to do most everything else. I’ll post up the blocks tonight.


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

I like the router / flapper idea even though that could get out of hand quickly 😄


----------



## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

Sublime said:


> Any tricks you are planning to use to reach in the gutters to sand? This is one of the next tasks for me and my fingers are not looking forward to it.


I didn't have gutters like that, but I did have a lot of luck using scrap foam as a sanding block. You can rough shape it with a razor blade and/or sandpaper, and the shape will give a little while sanding to soften any ridges or hard edges you might have left in the block.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

bryson said:


> I didn't have gutters like that, but I did have a lot of luck using scrap foam as a sanding block. You can rough shape it with a razor blade and/or sandpaper, and the shape will give a little while sanding to soften any ridges or hard edges you might have left in the block.


That’s easier than mine. I’m using starboard and cutting in the stuff with a router and woodworking bits


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Here are some of the tools that I’m using to get this fairing compound into shape.









































and @Sublime you’re hands will look like this:
Kinda like sandford and son, “my hands used to do this but now it’s like this”


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Gutters about 50% done. Pretty pleased so far.


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Build a boat they said. It'll be fun they said.


----------



## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

flyclimber said:


> and @Sublime you’re hands will look like this:
> Kinda like sandford and son, “my hands used to do this but now it’s like this”
> 
> View attachment 216517


Athletic tape on the fingers worked really well for me.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Almost done. Have the starboard hatch mostly scratched in and started joining the middle hatch to each side. I’ll probably have some touch up to do after finish sanding but not too bad.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Front hatch is coming in very nicely though.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

I ended up making some more blocks as well. 1/8” radius


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## Tarponhead (Mar 18, 2018)

Pro


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Gaugesaver.com pulled some magic. I didn’t have much hope for this gauge.


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Finally looking like hatch gutters again.


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## jonny (May 1, 2007)

This is what I use a lot at the shop. Along with a a 1/2” belt sander and a pile of custom blocks I acquired over the years. But the oscillating tool bits are my go to for tight stuff. If you don’t already have one you need one. I have a old school Fein multi master. I have used it to remodel 4 houses and weekly at work on fiberglass for trimming and sanding. Great little tool the dremel version is a third the price though.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

@jonny i knew they should have something out there for a multi tool. I’ve got the dewalt and it’s been pretty good so far. Small areas are just touch to work in period. I’ve already started my own collection of sanding blocks.


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## jonny (May 1, 2007)

I use those pointy carbide sanding bits also to knock the lumps down before sanding. You just can’t lean on those contour bits too much. I go through a couple of sets a year. But man my fingertips are very appreciative😂


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Little dolphin has an appointment today with @Charles Hadley. So I was making sure everything is getting ready for that trip and I saw the bow eye is not right. Turns out there’s wood in there. (Weird in a seemingly all foam boat). Not to worry we can fix this.


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## SouthernAngler (7 mo ago)

Are you sure that foam board you are installing for a backing plate is going to be strong enough that it won't crush under tension of the bow eye ? At minimum I think you should be using some Coosa. The bow eye is one place I wouldn't see being a problem if it was backed with a chunk of wood. I see you have several pieces of glass cut so maybe you'll be fine.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

SouthernAngler said:


> Are you sure that foam board you are installing for a backing plate is going to be strong enough that it won't crush under tension of the bow eye ? At minimum I think you should be using some Coosa. The bow eye is one place I wouldn't see being a problem if it was backed with a chunk of wood. I see you have several pieces of glass cut so maybe you'll be fine.


Good eye. Lots of glass went down.
3 layers of 10 oz and 3 layers of 17 0z bi ax for a total of almost 80 oz of glass.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Got to fish with @Charles Hadley today after dropping the boat off for spraying the topside and a bottom job. It’s weird not working on this afternoon. It’s in very good hands and I can’t wait to see the progress once it’s flipped in his shop.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Little bit of fun work tonight.
Carbon going down!


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Third and final coat tonight for the epoxy. I’ll scratch it up once cured for the interlux perfection plus top coat.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Sanded flat with 120-150 and gently burned thru in a couple of spots, I’m probably not going to sweat it. It’s small areas on top and bottom of the hatch.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Gauge saver making magic happen!


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

Looking sharp!


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## draggin flies (4 mo ago)

wish I could find one of these SS. they seem to be fewer and fewer


----------



## draggin flies (4 mo ago)

also that's a wild fuel tank shape never seen one like that


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

@Charles Hadley (a Duval/st Augustine local) and I struck a deal to help get this boat painted. Today he flipped the hull! Beyond excited to see the steps to get this boat back on water looking all clean and fresh.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

draggin flies said:


> wish I could find one of these SS. they seem to be fewer and fewer


They’re out there!


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## Charles Hadley (Jan 20, 2019)

One day soon you will wrap like this grasshopper


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Picked up the trailer and threw it back on the scales. Unrigged and bone dry hull weight is around 600-650 lbs.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Making the front hatch pretty. It’s flat square parallel and pretty. Very happy with how this looks so far. Couple more coats to go.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

And we have the beginning of the trailer rework. The new axle should hopefully be shipping next week.


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

Looking great! Man, that's a flat surface. It does not come easy!

What clear did you say you are using on that hatch? I'm building a carbon casting platform now, and I'm trying to figure out a good UV-protective clear coat to finish it off with.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

bryson said:


> Looking great! Man, that's a flat surface. It does not come easy!
> 
> What clear did you say you are using on that hatch? I'm building a carbon casting platform now, and I'm trying to figure out a good UV-protective clear coat to finish it off with.


I'm using the interlux perfect plus, I haven't tried on non-horizontal surfaces, I refinished a push pole with it and it didn't yellow or crack in the couple of years I used it. Cured pretty hard too. I'm seeing some microbubble on this last coat so I might just wait till its hard enough to sand it and do one more finish coat with a good/better brush.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

So I didn’t like the result of the last application so I waited till I felt I could sand it very gently back to smooth. Did more prep this time: (leveling part and getting different application tools)


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Whew. Keeping up with very quick blow torch passes to kill the micro bubbles but this is the surface we’re after.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Console is getting some flanges as well. Should start glassing tonight.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Hatch is done, on this side. Might do a little wet sand and buffing but it looks so good.


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## Newman (Jan 22, 2018)

This thread continues to blow my mind!!
Hats off to you.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Starting of trailerwork. Overarching goal is to lower the trailer and boat to the ground to help on our longer trips as well as easy to launch for if/when the wife want to go out solo.


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## MikeChamp12 (May 17, 2021)

looking good. Curious on how much more rigid structurally the carbon is compared to glass. Like if you were to try and flex it. I’ve never messed with carbon fiber. I think you picked the best weave btw it’s looking really nice


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

MikeChamp12 said:


> looking good. Curious on how much more rigid structurally the carbon is compared to glass. Like if you were to try and flex it. I’ve never messed with carbon fiber. I think you picked the best weave btw it’s looking really nice


Couldn’t tell ya it’s pretty dang firm so far. Very pleased with the choice so far! Can’t wait to see it mounted. Biggest choice now is do we do white logo on carbon or do we do black on black.


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## TurnMeLooseFLKeys (May 19, 2013)

Finally finished reading through. Wow!

And yea, wish I could find one too. I check almost everything a few times a week.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

@Charles Hadley should be posting an update on the bottom job he’s helping complete. It’s eye opening watching picture come thru of some pro’a at work.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

at the home front we’re back laying some more glass on the inside of the console. It’s important to note that the steps are just rinse and repeat to get solid consistent wet out glass(more than likely too much epoxy). 
1. Scratch up with no higher than 120 grit
2. Clean very thoroughly with acetone or some solvent. 
3. I use neat epoxy first with a brush to wet the foam and surfaces I’ll be laying glass.
4. Mix thickened epoxy to cover the neat with a paddle ensureing all the low spots are filled in and it doesn’t have any pockets to trap air under the glass. 
5. prewet out glass (if doing small pieces) on a plastic bag and carefully pick piece up and place in desired location. Use hands or a roller to proceed pushing air out from under the glass.You do notneed alot of pressure to do this. Light hand or finger pressure is plenty. 
6. continue to monitor the glass so you Don’t get dry spots or areas where glass would raise Up.
Note: I prefer to have the last layer as 10 oz because it drapes over curved very nicely and it can be scratched up pretty easily and quickly with a palm sander. 
it also helps greatly to have all your pieces precut and placed in an orderly fashion to quickly grab wet out and place

















Hs

































about 680 grams of epoxy used tonight. One layer of 17 oz biax on the flange top with a 17 oz on top that goes down to the original console with a 10 oz topper. I also stagger in pieces to bolster the corners with 17 and 10 oz pieces.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

And we did a little bit more trailer work.

front cross member will probably get moved foreword and the middle backward to better support the Boat.


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Here some pics while @Charles Hadley is working on the bottom of the hull. Moral of the story is that the hull was painted before but with poor quality materials and didn’t bond correctly. The best is using (poly over poly) you get some element of chemical bonding. Whereas with epoxy over poly you need to be very meticulous with cleaning and prep to get the best mechanical adhesion with isn’t as strong as chemical bonding.


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

On your trailer what is the plan at the back for an anchor point for stern straps? I'm at that stage on my trailer.


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Sublime said:


> On your trailer what is the plan at the back for an anchor point for stern straps? I'm at that stage on my trailer.


I’m likely going to have a removable setup of straps that use a clearance hole. I’ve gone thru 2 sets of bolt on transom straps on my other boat and I can’t ever seem get enough anti corrosion spray to stop the rust. It should work once I move the trailer brake lights up to the guide posts I’ll hook on the I beams end plates to slip an hook into.

Circled in blue.


----------



## SouthernAngler (7 mo ago)

flyclimber said:


> Here some pics while @Charles Hadley is working on the bottom of the hull. Moral of the story is that the hull was painted before but with poor quality materials and didn’t bond correctly. The best is using (poly over poly) you get some element of chemical bonding. Whereas with epoxy over poly you need to be very meticulous with cleaning and prep to get the best mechanical adhesion with isn’t as strong as chemical bonding.
> 
> 
> View attachment 218148


Definitely poor adhesion of the prior but interested in knowing what Charlie is going to prime it with and what paint is going over it for a finish coat. 

( If I used polyester resin for my repairs. )
If I was doing it, After making my repairs where needed I would put a polyester spray on filler on like Evercoat Slick Sand, Block it flat, before painting spray on 1coat of epoxy sealer, let it dry for 30 minuets, no sanding and paint with whatever you choose. 

( If I used epoxy resin to do my repairs)
If I was doing it, After making my repairs where needed I would put AwlGrip high build primer on it, while that's still wet spray on 2 coats of 545, Block it flat, sand with 400, blow it off, wipe it down and paint with whatever you choose. 

This is just what I would do, what works for me. Im not trying to tell anyone how to do their work but would like to hear how Charlie Hadley goes at it.


----------



## Charles Hadley (Jan 20, 2019)

Polyester primer
Polyester gelcoat 
No paint 
On hull


----------



## Charles Hadley (Jan 20, 2019)

I gelcoat hulls not paint them


----------



## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

Sweet


----------



## TurnMeLooseFLKeys (May 19, 2013)

Sorry to derail this thread, but what is that lapstrake hull? Hewes, Hoog, a rare SeaVee, VTech?


----------



## Charles Hadley (Jan 20, 2019)

Hewes bonefisher


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

More photos from @Charles Hadley


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## SouthernAngler (7 mo ago)

Charles, 
Thats fantastic. Im guessing that's already been wet sanded and buffed. Ive never sprayed gelcoat.
Is that a 1967 GTO rolling out of your neighbors bay ?


----------



## Charles Hadley (Jan 20, 2019)

Yes on the goat 
Dry 800 on da buffed and poliished
I haves learned to spray gel with additives and reduction like single stage cap.


----------



## Charles Hadley (Jan 20, 2019)




----------



## Charles Hadley (Jan 20, 2019)

Day after spaying 
Pre buff


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Got some trailer work done. All cross members are secured in and sealed with the amsoil HD we’ll see if it holds up.


----------



## SkiffaDeeDooDah (Jan 20, 2020)

I'm enjoying the heck out of this thread. Keep up the great work - and keep posting!


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## formerWAflyfisher (Sep 5, 2008)

flyclimber said:


> Here some pics while @Charles Hadley is working on the bottom of the hull. Moral of the story is that the hull was painted before but with poor quality materials and didn’t bond correctly. The best is using (poly over poly) you get some element of chemical bonding. Whereas with epoxy over poly you need to be very meticulous with cleaning and prep to get the best mechanical adhesion with isn’t as strong as chemical bonding.
> 
> View attachment 218147
> 
> ...


Absolutely beautiful work. What is being used to strip the old paint off? It looks like a hand plane or electric planer scraped the paint off??? @CharlesHadley the Bonefisher and HB look better than new.


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## Charles Hadley (Jan 20, 2019)

Stripped with razor blades


----------



## Charles Hadley (Jan 20, 2019)

formerWAflyfisher said:


> Absolutely beautiful work. What is being used to strip the old paint off? It looks like a hand plane or electric planer scraped the paint off??? @CharlesHadley the Bonefisher and HB look better than new.


Thank you sir


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

@Charles Hadley is doing work! Lots of odd features and holes are showing now that most of the old paint is taken off. A few correctly done repairs will be in order.


----------



## MGdave (Jul 27, 2016)

Good looking work !!


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

@Charles Hadley doing work! Hull repair and some fairing compound applied. All based on polyester resin. Which should be a partial chemical and mechanical bond.


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

And after a year of work at our house and a couple weeks with @Charles Hadley we have a first round of applied Gel coat in her new color!


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Time to hurry up and complete the console and hatches for drop off!


----------



## fishn&flyn (Oct 23, 2015)

Little Dolphin looks awesome man!


----------



## TidewateR (Nov 11, 2009)

Love that color! 

super skiffs are my favorite

keep hammering away


----------



## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

Man she sure looks pretty bud, nice work


----------



## Gatorbig (Jan 15, 2021)

Way to go👍


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Got a bit dusty today. But console is pretty close.


----------



## Jigalode (Sep 23, 2010)

I've been creeping on this thread for a looooong time. I've always wanted a Super Skiff and this build has had me itching for one even more. Glad to finally see it coming together.


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

today was bitter sweet. The Dexter torsion axle showed up a day after the hurricane Ian rolled by! So I spent a good portion tearing into the spring axle and fenders. And the learning opportunity presented itself as I was doing the fitting of the axle to the trailer to find the edges of the mounting flange to line up perfectly while the mounting holes to be smack dab in the middle of the I beam flange/web. DOH. I think I put a little thought into it during ordering and then forgot about it. A helpful call back to Dexter and I have some fancy pieces of aluminum angle coming for me to weld on. This is a secondhand fix but with the added benefit of beefing up the bottom flange of the trailer. So it works and it should make replacement easy as well.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

The front console is also coming right along! Threw down some glass down where the controls will be to seal it all down. Final fairing should be done this weekend for @Charles Hadley drop off.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

temporary axle place with tires on it clamped in place for now until the correct weld on aluminum brackets show up. I decided to slide the axle back by around 6 inches to help increase the tongue weight by about 60 pounds I will show the math on that in a later post.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Got pics from @Charles Hadley. Hull is looking so good! We did have an issue however. As a general reminder always double check that material systems are compatible before ordering! I had been using total fair to do a lot of the fairing work with intentions of covering with the alexseal line of products which should be completely compatible. I didn’t even think twice when Charles wanted to spray with gel due to the toughness as compared to paint. He was very honest about the uncured areas only around and already worked out a game plan to keep moving along! The final gel should be going down today!


----------



## Charles Hadley (Jan 20, 2019)

We got lucky and the only places where total fair met gelcoat were small spots where rub rail is to be installed. Sensed all of it out and good to go


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## Nate38 (4 mo ago)

Nice hull!


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

@Charles Hadley waited for the conditions to be right and here’s the first round of gel going down!


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Boat is looking stunning.


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## Gatorbig (Jan 15, 2021)

Wow top notch job boys 👍


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## Charles Hadley (Jan 20, 2019)

Thank you 
Sand and buff tomorrow for a flip this weekend


----------



## Mike Haydon (Dec 19, 2019)

SouthernAngler said:


> Definitely poor adhesion of the prior but interested in knowing what Charlie is going to prime it with and what paint is going over it for a finish coat.
> 
> ( If I used polyester resin for my repairs. )
> If I was doing it, After making my repairs where needed I would put a polyester spray on filler on like Evercoat Slick Sand, Block it flat, before painting spray on 1coat of epoxy sealer, let it dry for 30 minuets, no sanding and paint with whatever you choose.
> ...


I wished more knew about slicksand and I have suggested it several times to builders. I have used it since it was only $86 a gallon. Since 2002 at least. And honestly I would use it over any build, epoxy or poly. It has helped use different paints over epoxy builds for me for years.


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## Charles Hadley (Jan 20, 2019)

Slick sand is polyester high build primer
Same as feather fill rebranded
Have used both since late 80’s on corvettes
Good primer


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

And some pics in the sun! @Charles Hadley making her look so good. This is also pre-buffing


----------



## SouthernAngler (7 mo ago)

Hey *Charles Hadley - *I would like to learn to spray Gelcoat like that. Im a good painter but will admit I have no gelcoat experience. Do you use Duratec or some other additives ? 
Any tips ?


----------



## Charles Hadley (Jan 20, 2019)

Ancient ******* secrets Cap.


----------



## Charles Hadley (Jan 20, 2019)

They censored red neck!


----------



## Fishshoot (Oct 26, 2017)

That is a beautiful job!


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

That things going to be cool. Can’t wait to see it finished


----------



## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

Charles Hadley said:


> Thank you
> Sand and buff tomorrow for a flip this weekend


 Looking great, gotta lobe that Dur•••• HG!😉


Charles Hadley said:


> Slick sand is polyester high build primer
> Same as feather fill rebranded
> Have used both since late 80’s on corvettes
> Good primer


 And the same as duratec high build all good products

@flyclimber she’s looking great Capt! @Charles Hadley is doing you a solid job on the regel!


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Some more hatch work. Two layers of 17 oz bi ax just patching up all the air pockets and super thick gel coat.


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Also trying my hand at wet sanding. I had some small imperfections on the hatch surface and now since everything is fully cured. Should be as good of a time as any to sand them smooth.


----------



## SouthernAngler (7 mo ago)

Again Nice job.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Alright lots to do this weekend! Hatches have fairing compound down now. So that @Charles Hadley can lay down the paint


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

And we have the fix for the trailer axle. Special pieces of aluminum angle lots of fitting to get these exactly in the right spot. It should tow perfectly straight down the road now and oh so buttery smooth.


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Used a trick from work to ensure I put these exactly back into the right spot and that to drill two small holes for alignment. I used 1/8” on either side of the bracket. They’re not dimes but they should be perfectly sufficient for bouncing down the road I will inspect at least once a month for any cracks to form


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

And of course saved the best for last.
4 hours of prep and 30 minutes of welding 😂


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Back on her own two feet.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Maybe the last round of fairing on the hatches?


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

Gettin there bud!


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Decals and swag finally came in! 
now the real question what color decal on the front bulkhead hatch.


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## bob_esper (Jun 3, 2021)

You may want to wrap those corners on the welds a little more while you still have good access to it. Just to insure you don't have to do any repairs later on. May be fine as is, but aluminum welds on stuff like that are always about the edges, if the edges hold, the weld will hold.


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## FloridaFrank1992 (Dec 3, 2020)

Awesome project!


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## MikeChamp12 (May 17, 2021)

looking real nice brother. I’m feeling like a slacker with all your progress and I haven’t touched my skiff in a few weeks.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

MikeChamp12 said:


> looking real nice brother. I’m feeling like a slacker with all your progress and I haven’t touched my skiff in a few weeks.


Having @Charles Hadley working on the hull is a pretty huge motivator. As well as the wife wanted to fish it this year


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## Mike Haydon (Dec 19, 2019)

flyclimber said:


> Having @Charles Hadley working on the hull is a pretty huge motivator. As well as the wife wanted to fish it this year


Your wife must look like a super model.lol. mines been griping forever and I still cant find the motivation!


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

little more sanding. 3000 now just need to buff now.


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## Mike Haydon (Dec 19, 2019)

It should buff out like glass now. Looks great


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Got to sneak down to Saint Augustine with my parents and wife to see the dolphin in person it’s a real looker.


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## Mike Haydon (Dec 19, 2019)

flyclimber said:


> Got to sneak down to Saint Augustine with my parents and wife to see the dolphin in person it’s a real looker.
> View attachment 220376


When do you pick her up?


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## Charles Hadley (Jan 20, 2019)

Mike Haydon said:


> When do you pick her up?


Shop is a little full right now


----------



## Mike Haydon (Dec 19, 2019)

Charles Hadley said:


> Shop is a little full right now
> View attachment 220625


Wow that's 10 miles of tape on that paramount looking boat


----------



## Charles Hadley (Jan 20, 2019)

Brand new 40 ft nortec 
More tape on sides for the boot stripe
Clear nonskid on top


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

More welding practice on pipe slowly getting the motion and setting dialed in.


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Not too much to report. Last bit of fairing compound used up.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Also some trailer work.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Used some more of the honey comb to skin the inside of the hatches. Because why not.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

I have a slight change in process that’s seems to be working great. For “decorative” carbon
1. Fair the surface smooth so there’s no major geometry changes.
2. Clean well.
3. mix up epoxy with black pigment in it and roll smoothly across all surfaces that need to be covered in carbon. You will have to find the correct ratio for the epoxy as well as the pigment to the total mixed epoxy.
4. pre-cut all your pieces and begin laying the cardown once the black pigment epoxy is tacky but not fully cured.
5.Lay carbon down carefully as you’ll get one shot and don’t liftit as it will shear and distort. 
6. mix up clear epoxy and begin to laminate it in using fin rollers and squeegees to ensure you penetrate through the carbon weave.
7. Pre-wet an epoxy and solvent resistant foam roller and roll the surface very carefully to remove any excess resin.
8. follow your epoxy manufacturers recommendation for recoat without sanding and you’ll need about 4 to 5 coats to remove the surface texture left by the carbon weave.
NOTE: use a blow torch or heat gun on the surface moving fairly quickly to try to reduce any potential surface bubbles, you do not want to sit in one spot for too long we were us burning the resin.


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Here’s the result: 4 coats of clear epoxy. 
i will note this does not have any UV inhabitanters I’ll be adding with the interlux perfection plus after this cures for a couple of days.


----------



## Gatorbig (Jan 15, 2021)

That's pretty slick!


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Before very careful sanding:

















and after the perfection plus is down.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Got the other two hatches down and with a second coat of epoxy down.























I’m shooting for 4-5 coats of clear before any sanding. I hit it very gently with 220 with DA first then added a crosshatch by hand.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

starting to look good!


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Quite mesmerizing. Probably the final coat of epoxy on the rear hatches.


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

@Charles Hadley making dreams a reality. She’s very shiny. Buffing magician


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Some more pics from @Charles Hadley


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Old hatch on left and new hatch on right. Big difference.


----------



## SouthernAngler (7 mo ago)

She's a beauty. Good job by You and Charles.


----------



## millerrep (Apr 14, 2014)

flyclimber said:


> Some more pics from @Charles Hadley
> View attachment 222158
> 
> View attachment 222160
> ...


 Nice work, such a good boat. I like seeing the complex bottom of these skiffs.


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## MikeChamp12 (May 17, 2021)

Very nice. Makes me want to gelcoat my super skiff when I start the rebuild.


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

I think I finally have the wet look on the carbon.


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

MikeChamp12 said:


> Very nice. Makes me want to gelcoat my super skiff when I start the rebuild.


@Charles Hadley doing some magic voodoo to make it looks that good.


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

SouthernAngler said:


> She's a beauty. Good job by You and Charles.


I can’t wait to bring her together.


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

She is flipped and this weekend begins final priming. Final colors are seafoam slicks and whisper grey nonskid!
@Charles Hadley bringing the painting home.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

@Charles Hadley throwing some paint down on the slicks. The color match from gel coat to the alexseal is damn close. Nonskid should be getting sprayed tomorrow and coming home Monday.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

More components for the boat are also here.


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## SouthernAngler (7 mo ago)

Thats something to be proud of, for You and Charles Hadley. That ol' boat has come a long way from when you brought it home.


----------



## TroutNreds12 (Jan 4, 2016)

Wow this is incredible!!! Idk how I missed this. I’m picking up a new vantage next week and this makes me jealous


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Some pics of updates. Boat is finally coming home. @Charles Hadley had finishing up the taping and non skid.


----------



## FLmatt (Dec 11, 2017)

Damn she's looking good!!


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Finally beginning the rebuild. Finally enjoying this part.


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Didn’t feel confident enough in my layout of the console. So we made a test bench.


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Landed the motor as well. Not torqued yet but tight.
The notch looks awesome. Made for it.


----------



## SouthernAngler (7 mo ago)

Nice job, I see nothing to complain about. Im looking forward to be in your position. 
Again great job !


----------



## Fishshoot (Oct 26, 2017)

Your hard work and dedication shows throughout this thread. Bringing in Charles is the icing on the cake with that finish!! Great job!!


----------



## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

Dude that thing looks beautiful


----------



## Dobre (Nov 19, 2019)

Gahh that gelcoat looks sooo good!


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Here some more rigging pics! It’s coming together. Lots of new parts.


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

New fuel lines and a modern vent line.


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

And new rigging tube! Added new thru hull sea star hydraulic lines.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

And doing a lot of testing with the console before putting the holes in. 
@lemaymiami weighing on testing before living with it.


----------



## MikeChamp12 (May 17, 2021)

Better than factory. You’re making great progress.


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Sea dek finally installed and couldn’t be happier. Very simple clean lines.


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Landed the poling platform! A little bit sketchy to start but it is rock solid. Added backer plates too so foam won’t get crushed again


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

The Miss Kimberly Anne is beginning to come together. Next up is the console.


----------



## fishn&flyn (Oct 23, 2015)

Damn dude this thing is a work of art!


----------



## TurnMeLooseFLKeys (May 19, 2013)

I'll start the bidding at $1, Bob. lol


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Console work! Everything is fitting nice and tight.


----------



## Maverick MA (Jun 16, 2020)

One of my favorite threads. Beautiful work!


----------



## SouthernAngler (7 mo ago)

Fantastic work, Who is Miss Kimberly Ann ? It's a classic name for a classic skiff.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

SouthernAngler said:


> Fantastic work, Who is Miss Kimberly Ann ? It's a classic name for a classic skiff.


I loved the double names on the old shrimping boats for one and Kimberly was my late grandfather in law who was a commercial fisherman for basically his entire life, his big boat was sea foam as well so it’s built in honor of him and his love of the ocean.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Some more work on the console and I think there should not be any more holes put in!


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

I added the drain plug too. Solid bronze and it looks really sharp!


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

And got around to changing the water pump on the lower unit.


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

I am still planning on deleting the key switch and I have a good plan for this. With two of my switch. One latching and one momentary.


----------



## TidewateR (Nov 11, 2009)

killer color combo!

you’re in the home stretch


----------



## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

Awesome


----------



## SouthernAngler (7 mo ago)

*Flyclimber - *
What is the reason for eliminating the key switch ?


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

SouthernAngler said:


> *Flyclimber - *
> What is the reason for eliminating the key switch ?


Personal preference. Really wanted keyless after seeing the mill house boat.


----------



## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

What prop are you running on that 70hp? Just curious as I have the same outboard


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

GoGataGo52__20 said:


> What prop are you running on that 70hp? Just curious as I have the same outboard


Stiletto ported prop 13-1/4” diameter and 17” pitch. Never ran the boat before tear down but it’s straitened, polished, and balanced. We’ll see how it performs.


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

So some updates. Trim tab actuators are mounted again and looking pretty good.


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Got a good bit of the bilge wiring started. And the keyless button conversion is complete.


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Since I liked the brass bilge plug I added two more for the side storage hatches. Now it’s a matter of trying to find more space for everything in the bilge area.


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

More bilge work. Both bilge pumps are wired and about to be final plumbed.


----------



## Capt.Ron (Mar 5, 2014)

Those electrical connections are nice, but it’s a pain to troubleshoot with them. They also tend to corrode pretty quickly


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Capt.Ron said:


> Those electrical connections are nice, but it’s a pain to troubleshoot with them. They also tend to corrode pretty quickly


These hopefully shouldn’t be too bad, the wires will only have an chance to corrode right at the fuse block and of course the dust block could corrode but that wouldn’t be too big of a hassle to replace.


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Wiring is in progress. I think 1-2 days of work left!


----------



## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

flyclimber said:


> Wiring is in progress. I think 1-2 days of work left!
> View attachment 226735


Put a toothpick drop of blue locktite on those screws and when you get it all knocked out, put some plastic or paper begind the whole bunch and hit it with a spray of Corrosion X or similar and you’ll likely never have to fight the green gremlins. Maybe re spray once a year with the corrosion x but that’ll be about all.🤙🏻


----------



## MikeChamp12 (May 17, 2021)

What size pvc rod tubes? 1 1/2”?


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

a tiny rats nest. Not super worried. All the extra cable are strain relief and safety loops in case a component fails. All that remains is plump HPU for the trim tabs and wire the console to the boat. Should be very easy from here. Hopefully. Might have her in the water Monday!


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

MikeChamp12 said:


> What size pvc rod tubes? 1 1/2”?


1-1/8” ID. came with the boat didn’t feel like cutting them out yet.


----------



## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

Dude so sick,


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Console is installed and 90% wired. It’s highly likely tomorrow will be her maiden voyage. If you wanna tag along dm me!


----------



## Maverick MA (Jun 16, 2020)

Definitely want to hear about it!!


----------



## SouthernAngler (7 mo ago)

I hope you do a video so you can take all of us along.


----------



## MikeChamp12 (May 17, 2021)

So?


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

We did finally get her launched. So good with the bad… we got a leaky tank, throttle cables are too short now, and i think the battery is dead, and I drilled 3 holes thru thr hull that well get patched up.


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

For the good she looks really sharp, and she boogies! We loaded her up with about 10 gallons of fuel and pushed her off the trailer. We kissed 40.1mph and was slowly climbing so with a little prop work we might be getting 41 ish. No wiring issues popped and she rode as good as I would’ve hoped for! We never got her wet so it was our actual first time launching and running her. All in all it was really important to me to get this test done as a shakedown.


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

She also weighs in at 1260 lbs, forgot to check the draft we’ll circle back to that sometime later after rub rail and new/repaired tank goes in.


----------



## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

Man she’s a pretty skiff man you should be proud, what year is that 70hp? That’s scooting


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

GoGataGo52__20 said:


> Man she’s a pretty skiff man you should be proud, what year is that 70hp? That’s scooting


1998! And she fired right up when she got some fuel in her. Tilt and trim needs some fluid but the wind chill going 40 mph at 40* was quite bone chilling.


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Found the issue with the tank. 4 pins holes so far….anyone know a tank welder?


----------



## Maverick MA (Jun 16, 2020)

How accessible is the tank? Replace, dont fix.


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Maverick MA said:


> How accessible is the tank? Replace, dont fix.


Didn’t think the corrosion was as bad as it is. Reaching out to a couple of tank builders. Suggestions are welcome!


----------



## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

So other people can weigh in, but from what I’ve heard your better off just getting a new tank. Once pin holes show up you’ll continue to have issues with an aluminum tank. Again hearsay from what friends have told me


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

New tank should be getting started on Tuesday next week. In the mean time we bought a little 6 gallon pony tank.


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Top speed I’ve seen is a little over 41 with two of us in the boat! Getting used to the trim and tabs to get boat running more efficient. Without that front tank out draft is like 9-10” in the rear. Should go down. It’s a beautiful ride as she sits. New rub rail come in soon and the hinges for the hatches will be ordered in the new year.


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

New taco marine rub rail.


----------



## SkiffaDeeDooDah (Jan 20, 2020)

flyclimber said:


> New taco marine rub rail.


It's awesome when a forum member shares the progress of a project like you have here. I've really enjoyed tagging along and learning from your experiences. When you get the new fuel tank installed and finish it up, you will have one of the finest Dolphin Super Skiffs ever built (or rebuilt). Well done!


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

SkiffaDeeDooDah said:


> It's awesome when a forum member shares the progress of a project like you have here. I've really enjoyed tagging along and learning from your experiences. When you get the new fuel tank installed and finish it up, you will have one of the finest Dolphin Super Skiffs ever built (or rebuilt). Well done!


thank you! It wasn’t always easy but it is finally looking like the boat I had envisioned! Now I have to hurry and wait till the gemlux hinges get back in stock.


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Before and after with the taco marine rub rail! A heat gun is essential when installing the base and insert. Probably only needed due to it being rather cold out. But followed the instructions and it came out looking pretty sharp.


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Before and after with the taco marine rub rail! A heat gun is essential when installing the base and insert. Probably only needed due to it being rather cold out. But followed the instructions and it came out looking pretty sharp.


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

His and hers. All cleaned up and ready for the new year!


----------



## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

Looks great!


----------



## SouthernAngler (7 mo ago)

SUPERB job


----------



## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

Dude so sick!


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Yesterday we did real boat boat stuff and it was pretty awesome. Pushed around and spooked out some reds then rolled down the ICW. To grab some lunch! Then back to fish for a bit for the ride home.


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

If your in NE Florida on the 12th I’ll be dragging this down to the old city fly shop for the fly tying night if you want to check it out!


----------



## tim in nc (Aug 28, 2015)

Where did you get the decals for your boat?


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

tim in nc said:


> Where did you get the decals for your boat?


Cal Eric’s outboards or dolphin directly. They just hired a guy that got us ours quick.


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)




----------



## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Looking good man! I love the outboard choice as well…


----------



## Capt.Ron (Mar 5, 2014)

It came out beautifully


----------



## SkiffaDeeDooDah (Jan 20, 2020)

Mission Accomplished! It looks great and well equipped. Now go get some fish slime on it! 😁


----------



## Maverick MA (Jun 16, 2020)

Stunning! Is it just me, or does that nice, tall poling platform scream "GIVE ME A JACKPLATE!"?


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Maverick MA said:


> Stunning! Is it just me, or does that nice, tall poling platform scream "GIVE ME A JACKPLATE!"?


We’ll see about that! Dolphins aren’t known for using a jack plate and we already squat a bit 🥴


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

another reminder to fellow boaters about the rule of thirds for fuel or resources. 1/3 out 1/3 back and 1/3 to spare. I didn’t mow the fuel consumption of the dolphin and we were cruising thru Jacksonville and ran for about 15 miles before checking fuel level to find we were already below half. Whoops. Would not have made home on our temporary fuel tank. I now know we average 5mpg at 20-25 mph we’ll do some more testing at different speeds.


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

New tank is in from Pete Vento! A real welding pro


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Got all the hardware too for the rear hatches and can’t decide. I’m leaning towards opening along the length of the boat. I’ve got the compression latches as well.


----------



## TurnMeLooseFLKeys (May 19, 2013)

I vote b. Maybe they'll sit against the platform when opened. Be nice instead of having to hold them open.


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

TurnMeLooseFLKeys said:


> I vote b. Maybe they'll sit against the platform when opened. Be nice instead of having to hold them open.


I should add I bought the friction hinges so they should stand on their own after about 45 degrees.


----------



## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

Option B will allow you to access those two side hatches - while standing on the ground next to your boat (very handy). If you can, consider hatch supports as well to keep them standing open properly while you're reaching into each hatch (the back of your head will thank you...). You won't ever want your hatches touching anything (poling tower... ) when they're open since that will chip up either the tower or the hatch surface eventually (or both...).

Hope this helps


----------



## Maverick MA (Jun 16, 2020)

I would vote b, but even with compression latches, I would worry about those being problematic on road trips. It only takes one time forgetting to tighten one down and you could easily see that hatch cover (or worse, NOT see) go flying down the highway and under the wheel of an 18 wheeler. 

I also find that, when my boat is on the trailer, I access my hatches from the stern to turn off the battery switch, access wiring, etc. The set up with A doesn't allow that, but I suppose you can do that from the side. Might just test it out and see.

Either way, amazing job!


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Sounds like B is the choice. I’ll probably need to design the hinges latter on but a string might be all that’s needed. Instagram thought A. A option would also hit the push pole when opening if went too far. B should clear without any extra thought.


----------



## SkiffaDeeDooDah (Jan 20, 2020)

I like Option "B" and mine are setup that way. However, my gutters were made with more clearance aft (rear cutter is wider) for the lip of the lid to swing inside the gutter without rubbing. You may want to "test swing open" the hatch lids before you drill holes.


----------



## texasag07 (Nov 11, 2014)

Option b

Also my buddy has the same 2 stroke 70 on his dolphin, Perfect motor for that boat. We see 5mpg with standard use.


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

SkiffaDeeDooDah said:


> I like Option "B" and mine are setup that way. However, my gutters were made with more clearance aft (rear cutter is wider) for the lip of the lid to swing inside the gutter without rubbing. You may want to "test swing open" the hatch lids before you drill holes.


That’s a good check. I haven’t done that yet and I do not want to make any holes that aren’t necessary. The lips should allow for it but I haven’t actually confirmed that they would clear with 100% confidence. I’ll make a little jig tonight to test. The old hatches were set up like option A


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

texasag07 said:


> Option b
> 
> Also my buddy has the same 2 stroke 70 on his dolphin, Perfect motor for that boat. We see 5mpg with standard use.


That’s comforting to hear! If we ever blow this motor or if it gets we might ship it off to hydrotec for a little love!


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

So @SkiffaDeeDooDah mentioned I should check if I had any issues with landing or swinging the hatches open. And it turns out I would have a small issue on the hinge side. No big deal. I’d need to shave off about 1/8” to get it to clear assuming my minimum gap I measured on the whole gutter. So i feel more confident putting in the holes!


----------



## catchafish (Nov 25, 2020)

Awesome project!


----------



## SkiffaDeeDooDah (Jan 20, 2020)

That's a handy program for testing tolerances, @flyclimber Very cool!


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

So no issues were present on the first hatch! The friction hinges are perfectly in line with zero binding and they handle the weight of the hatch with no issues!


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

I was able to get comfortable drilling the rest of the holes with the use of a test board of the correct size for the compression latch.








And for the alignment I used a straight ruler that didn’t ever move from position during the layout and drilling of the holes for the hinge. And I pushed gently against the ruler before tightening to really make sure they are perfectly aligned.


----------



## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

A bunch of rinse and repeat and slowly but surely all three rear hatches are complete and installed. I may take off around 1/8” off the flange to have space for flexing and such but that can be for a later day!


----------



## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

As Flip Pallet would say “doin shit right”! 👍🏻👎🏻

Looks great brother!


----------



## Maverick MA (Jun 16, 2020)

This is no longer a Dolphin Super Skiff - this has now become a Dolphin Super DUPER skiff. Nice work!


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## Charles Hadley (Jan 20, 2019)

Making the refinish work look even better, stoked to be a part of this. Thanks josh


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