# Picked up my Glades X tunnel



## pt448 (Mar 22, 2014)

Sweeeet!


----------



## firefish (Jan 16, 2014)

YA!!! WHAT HE SAID ! SWEEEEET !!!


----------



## jsnipes (May 1, 2011)

Awesome! Where in TX are you, look fwd to seeing this thing built out


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

jsnipes said:


> Awesome! Where in TX are you, look fwd to seeing this thing built out


I'm in Angleton. Fish mostly East Matagorda and south.


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

I'm looking at a way to drop the bunk boards. I'm guessing the boats sits way too high to dry launch. Otherwise, I like the trailer a lot.


----------



## makin moves (Mar 20, 2010)

Nice setup! Those float on trailers ride like a caddie.


----------



## MariettaMike (Jun 14, 2012)

Sublime said:


> I'm looking at a way to drop the bunk boards. I'm guessing the boats sits way too high to dry launch. Otherwise, I like the trailer a lot.


That keel roller looks really high. Ditch the light and and move it to the back of the beam,

This is a Ramlin trailer set-up for a Waterman 18



This is a Ramlin setup for a Dolphin Super Skiff. Notice how the front of the bunks is much higher than the back.


Although for an 18' boat you may need another set of bunks to support the bow like you see under this boat. (The Waterman 18 is a 16' boat with sponsons. ) Coincidently I think this is the same guides new rig.


----------



## YnR (Feb 16, 2015)

I don't know if the roller is too high but looks too narrow for sure. I'd be worried about missing the roller altogether and scratching the hull.


----------



## sjrobin (Jul 13, 2015)

Sublime said:


> I'm in Angleton. Fish mostly East Matagorda and south.


Let us Texas guys know when you get it ready.


----------



## sjrobin (Jul 13, 2015)

Sublime said:


> I'm looking at a way to drop the bunk boards. I'm guessing the boats sits way too high to dry launch. Otherwise, I like the trailer a lot.


Yeah, the trailer is called Float-On, as in float the boat on/off. I had one with a 21 Outrage on it. Good trailer.


----------



## WillW (Dec 6, 2012)

sjrobin said:


> Yeah, the trailer is called Float-On, as in float the boat on/off. I had one with a 21 Outrage on it. Good trailer.


My ankona had a float on & y'all are correct, not a dry launch trailer. Sub, skiff looks great.


----------



## Whiskey Angler (Mar 20, 2015)

That's a beautiful hull! Share some pics post-rigging, please!


----------



## paint it black (Nov 3, 2007)

You can definitely drop the bunks down. I used to dry launch with my Float-On all the time. I had the trailer for four years with zero issues, never even blew a hub. I did blow a tire once due to hitting the sidewall in a construction zone. 
As stated above, you will want the bunks angled, a little higher up front than the back. A little bit of liquid rollers on the bunks will help, too. 
Those bunks are definitely too high in the back. 

Skiff looks great!


----------



## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

Just wax the bunks with gulf wax. It's better for the environment than chemicals. That rear roller will probably need to be replaced with something that is lower profile and wider. 

Basically drop the rear bunks as low as you can get them, the front bunks need to be higher. Set the rear roller so it's tapered center is an inch above the rear cross beam.


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

For the life of me I can't remember what the torsion spring axle looked like on the trailer for my old BT. This trailer has bigger 14" tires and the axle is on the same plane as the spindle if that makes sense. Of course if I changed the axle some day that messes with fender clearance etc. For now I might just look at dropping the bunks. I bet I could get it to dry launch just maybe not recover.


----------



## paint it black (Nov 3, 2007)

The trailer height looks good, but the bunk height looks off. Judging from those photos, you should easily be able to drop the back end of those bunks a good 3-4" which will make a huge difference. Just play with the roller placement to make sure it doesn't hit anything and you should be ideal for both launch and retrieval. Another thing to consider is a good winch that has a high and low gear setting. It will make dry retrieval MUCH easier, and don't forget Liquid Rollers or canning wax on the bunks.


----------



## Bonecracker (Mar 29, 2007)

Got a good look at your boat before you picked her up at Harry's last week! That is one sweet boat dude!!


----------



## grovesnatcher (Sep 25, 2007)

Really think your going to love that thing is really clean and simple


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Thanks fro the trailer pictures everyone. I have a pretty good idea how I need to set it up if I want to go that route. Once I get my motor mounted I'll see how much road clearance I have with the motor vertical. That's the way I would prefer to trailer it. My BT I had to use a transom save and that was just one more step before and after launching.


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Had some delays, mostly work and taking care of my elderly father. It's coming together.


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)




----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)




----------



## pt448 (Mar 22, 2014)

Sublime said:


>


Looking good!


----------



## Fish_specialist (Jan 1, 2014)

Looks killer man!!


----------



## hooknreds (Feb 17, 2016)

Nice sled!!


----------



## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Looks great, bilge pump or drain plugs? Must be able to run 4"-5" on a plane.... Tunnel vent system on the skiff? Keep photos coming, very nice skiff. How much did the completed hull weigh?.... I have the protype hull and am curious about the tunnel version. Please list the performance. Thanks in advance.........


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

stephenchurch said:


> Looks great, bilge pump or drain plugs? Must be able to run 4"-5" on a plane.... Tunnel vent system on the skiff? Keep photos coming, very nice skiff. How much did the completed hull weigh?.... I have the protype hull and am curious about the tunnel version. Please list the performance. Thanks in advance.........


The hull has two drains through the bottom. One on either side of the tunnel. 

If I can get a prop that holds water, it should be able to run in 6" of water on plane and hopefully at a slow speed for exploring. 

No vent on the tunnel. Harry felt the one he built with a vent didn't gain anything.

I wish I would have had a way to weigh it prior to adding things to it. I plan on getting a final weight full rigged. I'm hoping it comes in under 700 pounds fully rigged and with six gals of gas.

I'm taking it to the aluminum shop tomorrow to get the platform and grab rail started.

I'm a couple weeks away from splashing it.


----------



## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

I'm running a PT SWC4 on my tunnel with a Shaw Wing capture plate. Hold water great jacked up high. You will lose some speed though. They also make the same prop in 3 blade, haven't tried it.


Sublime said:


> The hull has two drains through the bottom. One on either side of the tunnel.
> 
> If I can get a prop that holds water, it should be able to run in 6" of water on plane and hopefully at a slow speed for exploring.
> 
> ...


----------



## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

Obviously you can only run as high as your motor will intake water. I have 2 boats with Tohatsu's, they seem to intake water pretty high. At low speed you can run the motor jacked higher as engine temp is lower than at high speed.


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

devrep said:


> Obviously you can only run as high as your motor will intake water. I have 2 boats with Tohatsu's, they seem to intake water pretty high. At low speed you can run the motor jacked higher as engine temp is lower than at high speed.



I was disappointed that the 30 e-tec doesn't have a port on the engine to hook up a water pressure gauge to. I'm leaning towards installing a temp gauge somewhere on the head.


----------



## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

My glades x without tunnel short shaft transom with jack plate, 25 Yamaha modded motor height is 19" high and 5" setback with a PT SRA 3 12"pitch @ 5850 rpm and it bites. Been running it for 200+ hours like that, prop is barely knicked up running in duckponds for reds. Prop 34-31,light/heavy gps mph, Turbo is 35 light but blows out constantly.....


devrep said:


> Obviously you can only run as high as your motor will intake water. I have 2 boats with Tohatsu's, they seem to intake water pretty high. At low speed you can run the motor jacked higher as engine temp is lower than at high speed.


----------



## Sandalous (Oct 30, 2013)

Sublime said:


> The hull has two drains through the bottom. One on either side of the tunnel.


Like, on the running surface?


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

stephenchurch said:


> My glades x without tunnel short shaft transom with jack plate, 25 Yamaha modded motor height is 19" high and 5" setback with a PT SRA 3 12"pitch @ 5850 rpm and it bites. Been running it for 200+ hours like that, prop is barely knicked up running in duckponds for reds. Prop 34-31,light/heavy gps mph, Turbo is 35 light but blows out constantly.....


Wow, those are good numbers. Jack Foreman builds a good prop, maybe the best shallow running props out there. But he'll tell you, it won't be the fastest. If I can touch 30 mph, I'll be really happy. The tunnel isn't that huge, less than 5" tall.


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Sandalous said:


> Like, on the running surface?



Yes. Different I know. He said if you pull them while running, they drain like nobody's business.


----------



## Whiskey Angler (Mar 20, 2015)

Sublime said:


> The hull has two drains through the bottom. One on either side of the tunnel.
> 
> If I can get a prop that holds water, it should be able to run in 6" of water on plane and hopefully at a slow speed for exploring.
> 
> ...


Another prop recommendation ...Bauman Props in Houston specializes in ultra skinny cupped props, and the are built TOUGH for running them through TX mud and shell.


----------



## J-Dad (Aug 30, 2015)

Sublime said:


> The hull has two drains through the bottom. One on either side of the tunnel.
> 
> If I can get a prop that holds water, it should be able to run in 6" of water on plane and hopefully at a slow speed for exploring.
> 
> ...


My hull unrigged was 370 lbs


----------



## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

J-Dad said:


> My hull unrigged was 370 lbs


My Prototype Epoxy Version Hull weighed 351 lbs, Harry no longer builds the Epoxy Versions, Now Vinylester Versions...


----------



## CurtisWright (May 9, 2012)

Sublime said:


> The hull has two drains through the bottom. One on either side of the tunnel.
> 
> If I can get a prop that holds water, it should be able to run in 6" of water on plane and hopefully at a slow speed for exploring.
> 
> ...


Your problem is both the stock prop and the jackplate. The offset from the jack plate being the larger of the two. The 4 blade powertec cupped prop in a 9in pitch and removal of or recessing the jack plate will fix the problem. I have been there and done this multiple times with this style tunnel. It's the same tunnel I have in my current and previous hull.


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

CurtisWright said:


> Your problem is both the stock prop and the jackplate. The offset from the jack plate being the larger of the two. The 4 blade powertec cupped prop in a 9in pitch and removal of or recessing the jack plate will fix the problem. I have been there and done this multiple times with this style tunnel. It's the same tunnel I have in my current and previous hull.


Did you mean to quote me? lol I haven't even put my boat in the water yet. Jack Foreman has propped many poling skiffs, so that's who I'm going to. His prop combined with the right compression plate will get me where I need to be. No two boats are the same, so there will be some tweaking for sure until everything gets dialed in. Optimal plate height, right prop, right compression plate, weight distribution and on and on. All part of the fun for me.


----------



## CurtisWright (May 9, 2012)

Sublime said:


> Did you mean to quote me? lol I haven't even put my boat in the water yet. Jack Foreman has propped many poling skiffs, so that's who I'm going to. His prop combined with the right compression plate will get me where I need to be. No two boats are the same, so there will be some tweaking for sure until everything gets dialed in. Optimal plate height, right prop, right compression plate, weight distribution and on and on. All part of the fun for me.


I am probably losing my mind. I think I just saw the picture of your hull and started rambling without reading thoroughly. I've had two different hulls with a tunnel similar to yours and it took me a while to get to the point where I could turn without the prop blowing out and coming off plane. Looking at your setup I just assumed you were having the same problem. The cav plates do not work that well with the round tunnel. They do best with square ones.

This was the solution to one of them.


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

CurtisWright said:


> I am probably losing my mind. I think I just saw the picture of your hull and started rambling without reading thoroughly. I've had two different hulls with a tunnel similar to yours and it took me a while to get to the point where I could turn without the prop blowing out and coming off plane. Looking at your setup I just assumed you were having the same problem. The cav plates do not work that well with the round tunnel. They do best with square ones.
> 
> This was the solution to one of them.


Oh wow, that's a pretty serious mod. My setback is only four inches so we'll see. You see all kinds of theories, motor tucked in close, motor set waaay back. I'm just going to have to get it together and run it. There's a few compression plates that are actually curved down on the sides instead of squared off. Maybe those will work better with a round tunnel.


----------



## CurtisWright (May 9, 2012)

Sublime said:


> Oh wow, that's a pretty serious mod. My setback is only four inches so we'll see. You see all kinds of theories, motor tucked in close, motor set waaay back. I'm just going to have to get it together and run it. There's a few compression plates that are actually curved down on the sides instead of squared off. Maybe those will work better with a round tunnel.


Ok, Good luck. Keep your progress posted so I can follow.


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

CurtisWright said:


> Ok, Good luck. Keep your progress posted so I can follow.


Will do. I hould have my platform on by this time next week, then go talk to Jack about a prop. He's excited to see the skiff.


----------



## DRO (Mar 9, 2016)

Sublime said:


> Will do. I hould have my platform on by this time next week, then go talk to Jack about a prop. He's excited to see the skiff.


Sublime - very very nice. Every decision so far to keep it simple is key. There is very little info on this boat online and look forward to seeing the finished project compared to my Lostmen tunnel setup. Did you test run in East M Saturday? I thought I saw this skiff go by and start poling the shoreline.


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

DRO said:


> Sublime - very very nice. Every decision so far to keep it simple is key. There is very little info on this boat online and look forward to seeing the finished project compared to my Lostmen tunnel setup. Did you test run in East M Saturday? I thought I saw this skiff go by and start poling the shoreline.


No sir, wasn't me. My boat is in League City right now getting the platform and grab rail made. I'll pick it up Saturday. Jack Foreman is going to look at my skiff this weekend then make me a prop. Then I just need to figure out the wiring and I'll be set to go.


----------



## Whiskey Angler (Mar 20, 2015)

Sublime said:


> No sir, wasn't me. My boat is in League City right now getting the platform and grab rail made. I'll pick it up Saturday. Jack Foreman is going to look at my skiff this weekend then make me a prop. Then I just need to figure out the wiring and I'll be set to go.


Let me know if you have any wiring questions... I've done the complete electrical on several new boats, and would be glad to help troubleshoot any issues/questions you may have. My number: (713) 557 zero zero one seven


----------



## scissorhands (Apr 8, 2012)

nice ride!!!


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Back from the aluminum guy today


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)




----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)




----------



## sjrobin (Jul 13, 2015)

Looks like it is ready to go.


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

That transome is sick. What did Harry make it out of to hold the stress


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

permitchaser said:


> That transome is sick. What did Harry make it out of to hold the stress


That etec is "only" 150 pounds


----------



## J-Dad (Aug 30, 2015)

Sublime said:


> That etec is "only" 150 pounds


Finished up nice.


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Put in the water for the first time yesterday. I don't have my prop yet, but decided to run it with the aluminum prop that came with the motor and I was really surprised. It held on with the jack plate almost all the way to the top. The tunnel I think will supply ample water. Somehow, some way I want to hook up a water pressure gauge. The 30 etec comes with no port to do so, but I've heard there is a way. I'm not going to post any speed numbers, because I think I'm way under propped with the aluminum stocker.


----------



## Redfish727 (Mar 22, 2016)

Sublime said:


> Put in the water for the first time yesterday. I don't have my prop yet, but decided to run it with the aluminum prop that came with the motor and I was really surprised. It held on with the jack plate almost all the way to the top. The tunnel I think will supply ample water. Somehow, some way I want to hook up a water pressure gauge. The 30 etec comes with no port to do so, but I've heard there is a way. I'm not going to post any speed numbers, because I think I'm way under propped with the aluminum stocker.





Sublime said:


> Put in the water for the first time yesterday. I don't have my prop yet, but decided to run it with the aluminum prop that came with the motor and I was really surprised. It held on with the jack plate almost all the way to the top. The tunnel I think will supply ample water. Somehow, some way I want to hook up a water pressure gauge. The 30 etec comes with no port to do so, but I've heard there is a way. I'm not going to post any speed numbers, because I think I'm way under propped with the aluminum stocker.


Nice ride brother! I should be getting my glades X tunnell any day now! Very excited, almost the same exact setup only difference is no coffin box. I have a brand new atlas micro jacker I'm going to install as well. So it's nice to know your not having any setback issues with jack plate. I'll be running a 30 hp 3 cylinder Yamaha that I'm currently running on my aluminum 14 ft tunnell hull, custom built. Also I have built a pretty neat cavitation plate for my setup now and I'm going to try it on the glades X. It works great and easy to construct, thought you may be interested in checking it out. Thanks for sharing the detailed info and if you need a prop guy check out Lloyd at suncoast propellor in holiday fl. He's done all my prop work and knows his stuff.


----------



## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

Sublime said:


> Put in the water for the first time yesterday. I don't have my prop yet, but decided to run it with the aluminum prop that came with the motor and I was really surprised. It held on with the jack plate almost all the way to the top. The tunnel I think will supply ample water. Somehow, some way I want to hook up a water pressure gauge. The 30 etec comes with no port to do so, but I've heard there is a way. I'm not going to post any speed numbers, because I think I'm way under propped with the aluminum stocker.


If you can raise it all the way up with the jack plate and its a stock 3 blade alum prop you need to raise the motor up as high as possible on the transom and get a heavily cupped prop.


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

devrep said:


> If you can raise it all the way up with the jack plate and its a stock 3 blade alum prop you need to raise the motor up as high as possible on the transom and get a heavily cupped prop.



Agreed. It would a little bit like that and then it would start to fall off.. I have my new prop being worked on. I'll run it with the jackplate in the same hole. If it runs like a champ there I can raise my entire jack plate up one more hole.


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Redfish727 said:


> Nice ride brother! I should be getting my glades X tunnell any day now! Very excited, almost the same exact setup only difference is no coffin box. I have a brand new atlas micro jacker I'm going to install as well. So it's nice to know your not having any setback issues with jack plate. I'll be running a 30 hp 3 cylinder Yamaha that I'm currently running on my aluminum 14 ft tunnell hull, custom built. Also I have built a pretty neat cavitation plate for my setup now and I'm going to try it on the glades X. It works great and easy to construct, thought you may be interested in checking it out. Thanks for sharing the detailed info and if you need a prop guy check out Lloyd at suncoast propellor in holiday fl. He's done all my prop work and knows his stuff.



Sounds good! I installed a cavitation plate that my prop guy recommended. What trailer are you getting? I got the Float-On from Harry and it's a nice trailer. I _am _however going to lower the back of the bunks by four inches and the front of the bunk by two inches. As you can tell from the picture, the setup sits pretty high. I'll probably ditch that back roller and replace with some keel pads right on the trailer we'll see. Even with that I was able to dry launch, but I did have to get the hubs a little submerged to recover it. If you got the Float-On I hope you got the optional walk board. Way worth the money. Also, if you got the 14" tires I can show you how I mounted my spare.


----------



## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

What compression plate is that? Looks like it would work really well.


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

devrep said:


> What compression plate is that? Looks like it would work really well.



Trans Sport Boats in Palacios TX builds them. $190.

http://www.transportboats.com/


----------



## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

I didn't know he still made them. I'm using a Shaw Wing. I read that the Tran plates were very good.


----------



## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

Take the rear roller off and mount it on the back side of the rear cross member like this.


----------



## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Plate looks great, please advise your performance with the 30 on the Glades X. Did you ever get a S/S Prop ?


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

stephenchurch said:


> Plate looks great, please advise your performance with the 30 on the Glades X. Did you ever get a S/S Prop ?


The prop is on order now, so hopefully will have it next week? It's being built for grip and not speed, so we'll see. Just trying to say this skiff is not being built to be a speed demon. Most of my runs are 5 miles initially with maybe a 15-20 mile run back at the end of the day.


----------



## Redfish727 (Mar 22, 2016)

Its looking very nice buddy! And yes, I got the float on trailer as well. With the 14 inch tires. However, I did not get the optional walk board, but im sure I can make something work. thanks for posting detailed info on the trailer, as I will be doing the samething, it only makes since. That cavitation plate you had installed looks great. Im very interested in your performance results. Did you have to drill thru the stock cavitation,or is it a sandwhich design? keep me posted im only a week away from getting my my glades x tunnel. I know your getting a prop built, do you know the pitch and cup info by chance? im running a 15p 3blade PT with a lot of cup added too it on my current tunnel now. It works great with the current design just curious on your results as it will help with tweeking on my end. I know I sound like a kid with all the questions haha but I appreciate all the info shared.


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Redfish727 said:


> Its looking very nice buddy! And yes, I got the float on trailer as well. With the 14 inch tires. However, I did not get the optional walk board, but im sure I can make something work. thanks for posting detailed info on the trailer, as I will be doing the samething, it only makes since. That cavitation plate you had installed looks great. Im very interested in your performance results. Did you have to drill thru the stock cavitation,or is it a sandwhich design? keep me posted im only a week away from getting my my glades x tunnel. I know your getting a prop built, do you know the pitch and cup info by chance? im running a 15p 3blade PT with a lot of cup added too it on my current tunnel now. It works great with the current design just curious on your results as it will help with tweeking on my end. I know I sound like a kid with all the questions haha but I appreciate all the info shared.


My guy builds a lot of three blade props, but for this he is going with a four blade. We are going to try a 12 pitch and he'll cup the tar out of it. It won't be a speed demon.

And yes, I had to drill through the cavitation plate. If I wasn't already really sure about the plate I would have been nervous doing that.

I'm sorry everything is taking so long. My dad is in his last days at home with hospice, so that trumps everything.


----------



## fishicaltherapist (Mar 9, 2013)

Prayers and prayer request sent for your Dad & family. GOD bless !!!


----------



## Redfish727 (Mar 22, 2016)

Sublime said:


> My guy builds a lot of three blade props, but for this he is going with a four blade. We are going to try a 12 pitch and he'll cup the tar out of it. It won't be a speed demon.
> 
> And yes, I had to drill through the cavitation plate. If I wasn't already really sure about the plate I would have been nervous doing that.
> 
> I'm sorry everything is taking so long. My dad is in his last days at home with hospice, so that trumps everything.


Prayers for your dad and your family!


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

I lowered the rear of the trailer bunks 3 inches and left the front alone. I can retrieve it now without submerging the hubs. I can probably launch it now with just getting the tires wet.

I have a wider roller coming in today. That should ensure the setup is almost ding proof if the wind or current gets me out of line when loading.











Looks so much better on the trailer than it did. I have some bow eye geometry issues to correct now though.










Still have plenty of clearance to tow with the motor straight down and halfway up on the jack plate.


----------



## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

Sublime said:


> I lowered the rear of the trailer bunks 3 inches and left the front alone. I can retrieve it now without submerging the hubs. I can probably launch it now with just getting the tires wet.
> 
> I have a wider roller coming in today. That should ensure the setup is almost ding proof if the wind or current gets me out of line when loading.
> 
> ...


really nice!


----------



## makin moves (Mar 20, 2010)

You did a great job with the whole set up. Congrats, it's a sick sled!


----------



## g8rfly (Oct 9, 2011)

Beautiful skiff, and nice job with the trailer- looks like it's set up perfect.


----------



## crboggs (Mar 30, 2015)

Nice looking rig!

I constantly debate selling my flats boat to pick up a tiller like this...


----------



## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Very Nice, keep us posted with the performance numbers. What weight did the finished hull come in at?


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Sorry about your Dad. Prayers on the way


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Ran her some more Saturday.


























Don't pay attention to the blue tape around the coffin box lid. I'm moving the hinges and needed something to temporarily keep the lid in place.


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Long time since I posted anything. At this point I consider the skiff is as finished as much as a skiff can ever truly be finished. I'm sure I'll do some more tweaking here and there.

Anyway, I'm totally happy so far. It poles really, really good even compared to my old Beavertail B2 tiller. The B2 wouldn't spin very well and the stern was more prone to being blown by a cross wind. The Glades X poles with ease, and is very quiet.

Now on to some subjective topics:

Poling draft - Okay, keep in mind that my boat has a tunnel and an ample one at that. I have a short shaft etec 30 weighing in at 150 pounds mounted on an Atlas Micro Jacker, that is around 27 pounds. So let's just say I have 175 pounds hanging off the back. Now get myself on the platform at 6'-5" and 230 pounds and we have over 400 pounds on the back not including the platform. I need to put some tape on the back, pole the boat with a buddy on the front with a GoPro back there, but I'm going to unofficially say it is between 6 and 7 inches. This is plenty good enough for what I am doing 90% of the time.

Speed - I have a couple of props

Powertech 3 blade 11 pitch with mongo cup from Crossroads Propeller. He will tell everyone that he builds a prop for one purpose and one purpose only and that is to jump up and run skinny. I need to put this prop back on and run it some more. I was seeing 26 - 27 mph with me and another guy and five gallons of gas.

Powertech 4 blade 13 pitch stock - This prop runs a little faster. I've seen 28 - 29 mph with this one, but I don't think it will run as high in the water column as the three blade will. I'm hitting 5900 rpm with this prop so I might put a little more cup in it.

Hole shot - honestly, I haven't really worked on this a lot, so I can't really give a review at this point. It's not that critical to me. I pole out to deeper water or find a pot hole for the most part.

So that's it. Thanks for reading and remember your results may vary.


----------



## jddurango (Jul 7, 2015)

Thanks for the update. I love that skiff!


----------



## hooknreds (Feb 17, 2016)

Looks like you have her pretty dialed in. Great looking skiff!


----------



## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

Sublime said:


> Looks so much better on the trailer than it did. I have some bow eye geometry issues to correct now though.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Freakin *hot* setup!


----------



## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

Sublime, whatchu doin with that bad boy? We need to see some fish on that deck!


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Sublime said:


> I lowered the rear of the trailer bunks 3 inches and left the front alone. I can retrieve it now without submerging the hubs. I can probably launch it now with just getting the tires wet.
> 
> I have a wider roller coming in today. That should ensure the setup is almost ding proof if the wind or current gets me out of line when loading.
> 
> ...


My big fat boat has a 140 on it that I could trailer it jacked up but I chose to use a transom saver to keep the weight off the JP IMHO


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Backwater said:


> Sublime, whatchu doin with that bad boy? We need to see some fish on that deck!


I know right. I get pulled from all directions between burning up the road to go see the GFs grandkids play sports (yeah we're old), slowly remodeling my house, building fence, using our weekend lake cabin etc, The days to fish have been greatly diminished lately. Apartment or townhouse life is looking better all the time. But alas, I am SUPPOSED to go this Saturday so maybe I'll have something to post up.


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

permitchaser said:


> My big fat boat has a 140 on it that I could trailer it jacked up but I chose to use a transom saver to keep the weight off the JP IMHO


I used to use a transom saver on my BT. It had a 50 etec tiller. The only reason I used it on that skiff was that the motor was too close to road when in the vertical position. I prefer to trailer my boats with the motor in the vertical position. That jack plate is rated for a 115 horse motor so I doubt it even knows my 30 is hanging on it. Also, I had Harry put some extra reinforcement in the transom.


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Sublime said:


> I used to use a transom saver on my BT. It had a 50 etec tiller. The only reason I used it on that skiff was that the motor was too close to road when in the vertical position. I prefer to trailer my boats with the motor in the vertical position. That jack plate is rated for a 115 horse motor so I doubt it even knows my 30 is hanging on it. Also, I had Harry put some extra reinfent in the transom.


That extended transom may be reinforced but I'd use a transom saver just in case. It's your call it's your boat so do what you think is right


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

permitchaser said:


> That extended transom may be reinforced but I'd use a transom saver just in case. It's your call it's your boat so do what you think is right


I hear ya. I'm also hesitant to use a saver on this motor because it doesn't have tilt and trim. My 50 had tilt and trim so yeah, lift the motor up and then lower it to snug it up. This motor would be just resting on the saver with nothing but bungee cords to keep it from bouncing up and slamming back down. 90% of the people around here trailer with their motors in a vertical position if they can.


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Been a while since I posted any updates. I hit a local river to run her for the first time after moving my compression plate forward. I also moved my motor (no tilt or trim) down to the lowest pin to give it some more negative trim. I think she is essentially tuned in now. Still no speed demon with this set up at 28 mph but speed isn't my goal. I find myself running mostly around 4600 rpm which puts me at 22 mph.

She will run with the plate all the way up all day long and will run that way with the tabs down all the way down to 12 mph. That makes me happy as well. I was alone today, so I poled her from the bow. She poles really well from up there. Kind of fun. I weighed my portable tank before and after and calculated on my 24 miles of running I got 14.5 mpg. Dang happy with that too.

Pushed her up on a bar. Jack plate all the way up here.









I pushed her from the bow up onto the bar and got out and measured a couple places. I am confident to say I was poling in 6 inches of water.










At the ramp










Stuart is a happy camper.


----------



## grovesnatcher (Sep 25, 2007)

Nice


----------



## T Bone (Jul 24, 2014)

Sublime said:


> I lowered the rear of the trailer bunks 3 inches and left the front alone. I can retrieve it now without submerging the hubs. I can probably launch it now with just getting the tires wet.
> 
> I have a wider roller coming in today. That should ensure the setup is almost ding proof if the wind or current gets me out of line when loading.
> 
> ...


Sublime, 

Can you post some updated shots of the rear of your trailer with the new roller? I am adding a rear keel roller to my trailer and would like to see how your set up is and how much bellow the bunks the keel roller is?

Thanks man


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

T Bone said:


> Sublime,
> 
> Can you post some updated shots of the rear of your trailer with the new roller? I am adding a rear keel roller to my trailer and would like to see how your set up is and how much bellow the bunks the keel roller is?
> 
> Thanks man


Yes sir, will do when I get home.


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

So I replaced the 12" roller with an 18" roller. Of course, I had to drill new mounting holes. I _may_ look into getting new brackets to be able to lower the roller maybe another 1/2" but it seems to work fine now.










On the bunks, I slammed them down as low as I could go with the current brackets. The bracket at the rear of the trailer is original. I had Float On, make me two new brackets for the fronts side. I did the same thin for the supports in the middle of the trailer. When I changed things up, I launched the boat and took off the middle brackets and lowered the rear brackets. Then, I simply adjusted to middle brackets to match. The only way to get any lower would be to weld the bunk brackets to the cross beam.











I left the front brackets alone. Doing this gave me more of an angle, which helps with dry launching. The other thing I had to do was raise the winch post 2-1/2". I accomplished this with a piece of treated 2x6 and a piece of treated 1x6. It is ghetto, but totally functional and will last indefinitely.


----------



## T Bone (Jul 24, 2014)

Sublime said:


> So I replaced the 12" roller with an 18" roller. Of course, I had to drill new mounting holes. I _may_ look into getting new brackets to be able to lower the roller maybe another 1/2" but it seems to work fine now.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Thanks!


----------



## Daniel.Baker (Jun 4, 2017)

Oh my! That is a nice rig. Congrats


----------



## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Sublime said:


> So I replaced the 12" roller with an 18" roller. Of course, I had to drill new mounting holes. I _may_ look into getting new brackets to be able to lower the roller maybe another 1/2" but it seems to work fine now.
> Some fine engineering, I would be proud of that. Trailer company might learn from it...
> 
> 
> ...


----------



## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Sublime said:


>


I glassed in the splash well area and installed a 8" water proof Rabud hatch with 2- 1/4" drain tubes. So the splash doesn't fill the back of the boat.


----------



## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Did you build a chase/cover for your wiring from the grab bar? as I had to do for mine? GPS/Tiny Tac, Running Lights ect.....the longer you use the boat you will add personal ideas for re-engineering the original design....


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

No Bait / Lures Only said:


> Did you build a chase/cover for your wiring from the grab bar? as I had to do for mine? GPS/Tiny Tac, Running Lights ect.....the longer you use the boat you will add personal ideas for re-engineering the original design....


Yes, I had a guy glass in a half tube affair from the port rear corner of my coffin box to just under the edge of my rear deck.

How far can you run wires for the tiny tach? Mine is hard to read in its present location.


----------



## GullsGoneWild (Dec 16, 2014)

I mounted my tiny tach to my tiller handle. Its awkward to run and look but it works. The installer recommend mounting it to the cowling and secure it with velcro


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

GullsGoneWild said:


> I mounted my tiny tach to my tiller handle. Its awkward to run and look but it works. The installer recommend mounting it to the cowling and secure it with velcro


Yeah mine is on the very base of my tiller arm and hard to see. My old boat had it on the tiller arm at a better angle to see. I need to play around and get inventive on moving it somewhere on the tiller arm where I can see it easier. I run this motor a lot harder so I'd like to know where I am at a little easier.


----------



## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Sublime said:


> Yes, I had a guy glass in a half tube affair from the port rear corner of my coffin box to just under the edge of my rear deck.
> 
> How far can you run wires for the tiny tach? Mine is hard to read in its present location.


When purchasing the Tiny Tac you may order it with any length you require. Custom length is available, as that is how I ordered mine. Lasted about 2 years then died....


----------



## Stevie (Jun 27, 2017)

Great thread. Sweet, minimal skiff. You can disregard the PM I sent as most of the questions were answered here...

Saludos,


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

I broke down and ordered my trolling motor, a MinnKota 12v 55 lbs thrust just like I had on my BT. After lots of looking and measuring and measuring again, I drilled the holes for the puck. I have a 6" x 12" x 1/4" aluminum plate coming today that I will match drill and use for backup on the underside of the cap. I have a MinnKota power supply box coming that the battery will go in. I still haven't decide exactly where I am going to place the battery, so it may just be loose for a while.










I also got the pad that I ordered from Blacktip Jetsports installed on my platform. Went on without a hitch. I had some cutoff remaining so I decided to put that to the fender of the tractor where my dog Fish likes to ride. I stuck it down and came back and noticed the pad was separating from the backing along the outside edge. Granted the fender is curved but it is nothing crazy and the matt came rolled up in a box anyway. I'm not sure what to think now. So far it seems to be fine on the platform but I will keep an eye on it.


----------



## WillW (Dec 6, 2012)

You & that dog...
I put the same battery box in my B2


----------

