# Motor on 13 gheenoe transom?



## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

*Re: Motor on transom*

I epoxied a section of cedar lath where the clamps bite.
Keeps the clamps from cutting through the fiberglass.
Epoxy is needed so that the lath can't move or slip.
That way the outboard stays put.
If you aren't going to through bolt the outboard,
at least install a pad eye to use to tie the outboard down.


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## popcorn (Apr 11, 2010)

*Re: Motor on transom*

When you say 13 do you mean a 13' Gheenoe? If so, I would not run it without bolts. I've had 2 of them and the transom design doesn't seem to allow the outboard clamps enough room to get a solid bite far enough below the top for my liking. If you don't bolt it you need to make sure you have a cable on it so you don't lose it if it comes off accidentally. I think you might get a better mount with a Mini Jacker jack plate. Thats what I have on mine and it is more solid than the stock tramsom.


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## InshoreSnookStalke (Jun 23, 2011)

*Re: Motor on transom*

Yea, It looks much different then my jon boat transom. Im not used to the no wood thing... The 13 seems to have some type of reinforcement to the transom though... its like a block running from side to side across the transom. I haven't got my outboard yet but it does look like that when I do it will want to slide on that surface.. Maybe I will find a way to put it in and out of my vehicles bed with the motor still attached to the boat and then I can bolt it on (I am semi confident that i can). I have never had any experience with a jackplate but I guess you bolt a jackplate on and you can run your motor a little more shallow. 

The first response was to epoxy wood to the transom but I like the bolting wood on better because seems like it would be a pain removing the wood one day if it was glued on... 

If I run any kind of bolt through the transom do I need to do anything special to it? Like some kind of treatment to the fiberglass??? Im guessing the drill would be above the waterline but I am sure water would splash in at times and I do not know if that hurts the hull. 

Sorry I just have no clue about fiberglass... I am... well... ahhem... was a jon boat guy. 

I wish I had some experience with a jackplate... so many guys have them they must be worth while... It seems it would make too little of a difference running at full speed with just a 6 hp to have one... but I don't know... when its super shallow I normally kick it in shallow water for a slow cruise. 

If I use epoxy then is there a special kind that would be best for the gheenoe?

And Any Special tips on drilling into the fiberglass? I have drilled into wood before but I am sure it's much different (and scary being on a boat! :-?

Thanks, 
ISS


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

I recommended epoxy as you won't have to drill through the transom.
No holes means no leaks.
I used 5 minute epoxy from the local hardware store.
Sanded the area to be bonded to, then glued the lath in place.
To remove the lath later, a wood chisel and mallet will peel it off,
then sand paper to remove the remaining epoxy.
But why remove it? Next outboard will fit in the same place...


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## noeettica (Sep 23, 2007)

If money is tight (When Isn't it ?) the bobs plate is good since you have a 13 footer you can use the wide one ...

drill holes slightly oversize coat the inside of the holes with epoxy ... then seal jp to hull with 5200

If you can swing the $$$ a Sting ray Jr will help the 6hp get you on plane easier 

once the 13 footer gets on plane your speed will increase a couple of mph .... depending on a number of factors you may be able to get on plane at 8 mph ...

you should see 14-17 mph lightly loaded with that set up ...

Enjoy !


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## InshoreSnookStalke (Jun 23, 2011)

Ok. So I am now thinking that bolting the outboard will be best sooo I want to drill through the transom. What is the best procedure to do this on the gheenoe 13 transom? I have been researching this online for hours now and I have seen all kinds of different procedures... 

I found that drilling through fiberglass can crack it (or maybe crack the gel coat) etc if not done correctly. 

I have seen tips online such as: you should put tape on the boat, then drill a super small hole through followed by the larger drill bit??? I saw things about using ice picks!? Seems people drill a hole, then use epoxy to cover the hole, then drill through the epoxy???? I need help. 

Questions: 
1 What exact procedure should I use to drill a hole without damaging the gel coat/fiberglass/boat?

2. Can I use no epoxy etc. Just drill hole?

3. if I must use epoxy, what other then 5200 can i use? ( I hate the thought of how hard it would be to remove 5200 if I needed to)

Is there wood in the 13 gheenoe transom? There is some kind of a large block of something on the inside of my transom. I tried to post a picture of TOM13's boat that shows the transom block thing pretty well. 

I obviously know little about this and want to do it correctly the first time. A bad drilling job in the transom would be terrible. 

Thanks!
ISS


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## JimCameron (Jan 3, 2010)

I use a small piece of black floor mat, the cheapest kind, that I cut and just fold over the transom. It works fine for my 20hp Honda. It should work fine for your smaller lighter outboard. It helps save the gelcoat on the transom. 

I also have a safety chain just in case the motor decides to take a dive off the boat during operation. 

Enjoy your rig. Sounds like a great set up.


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