# Electrical issue. Nothing on panel works.



## Gogittum (May 24, 2020)

Ben said:


> Prepping for a trip with my brother tomorrow and trying to figure out why none of my switches are working. Nav lights, bilge, live well. Battery is fully charged and all connections are clean and secure. I checked continuity on all the switches and at the fuse panel itself and all is good. Jack plate and motor work but none of the switches, tabs, or depth finder will turn on. I can’t see any frays and all connections look good. Am I missing something?


No way of knowing from here how visible things are under there, but with it that clear cut, there has to be a break in the hot lead to the panel. Wire pulled loose from crimp connector at either end, but still inside the insulating sleeve ?? Connector from hot lead mounting point to rest of panel cracked ?? Cold solder joint in same ?? Is there a point where the hot lead can flex ?? Maybe broken inside the insulation ?? Hah....there ya go - run a separate wire from battery to panel and see if it lights up. Most common source of problems is the ground. Try running a separate ground as well. Good luck. Let us know what you find.


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## Ben (Dec 21, 2016)

Thanks Gogittum. I’ll try your suggestions and let you know how it goes. Appreciate the advice.


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## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

Troubleshooting a 12 volt system is great fun - if it doesn’t make you crazy... In general it’s helpful to remember that every circuit needs to start with power that does make a circle and must return to ground (by whatever means it has to get back to the negative pole in your battery - or it just won’t work).

Additionally since nothing is working on your switch panel...: all you’re dealing with is that particular primary circuit. First things first... try to wiggle each of your battery cables connections to your battery. Find a loose cable and you might have found the source if your trouble. Before you tighten it, remove it and clean both battery terminal and cable end. If your switch panel comes back to life hooray (but it’s rarely that easy...). 

Next check any battery switch you might have - make sure it’s actually turned on (always check the east stuff first, sometimes you get lucky...).

Lastly comes the harder part where you use a multi-meter set on the Ohms function and check each wire in that primary circuit for a break.

Hope this helps and “Aren’t boats fun”?


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## Ben (Dec 21, 2016)

It’s definitely on the panel. I sprayed the connections with contact cleaner and jiggled the wires a little and it worked until I jiggled it again. There are 4 switches and I think it’s where the positive wire comes into the Nav switch. Going to loosen up the harness and check each terminal in more detail. I think it’s either a loose connection or there is some hidden corrosion that’s causing the issue. It definitely is a little maddening but always fun. Rather it happen in the garage versus on the water. Being without a bilge pump unexpectedly could be a major problem.


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

What you just experienced,
total system failure is why I wire two things on my boats w/o going through the fuse panel and isolator switch.
One is the radio and the other is one bilge pump.
Both are wired direct to the battery with an inline fuse.
This minimizes the number of connections/failure points and easy to trouble shoot when necessary.


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## Ben (Dec 21, 2016)

Thanks MRO. I might just bypass those circuits and make them direct like you said. I don’t have a radio on the boat but the bilge is a must.


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## Steve_Mevers (Feb 8, 2013)

Just yesterday I finished rewiring my boat, plus new prop, engine power harness, bow and stern lights, and got rid of the hydraulic trim tabs and installed Lenco tabs. Took it out today and the trim switch went out...shit happens..luckily I had a spare switch at the house at the house.


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## Rookiemistake (Jan 30, 2013)

Pics of fusebox and what type of boat?
Also pics of switch panel would help....


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## ShallowMinded84 (Nov 18, 2020)

I think ur on to it with the corrosion, 99% of time it ground or corrosion issue somewhere. Cover every connection with dielectric grease after cleaning them up. Doesn't hurt to set a reminder ever few months to pull connections, wire brush with cleaner, then cover in the dielectric grease. Good luck, hope u make ur trip!


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

For those that have the room.
In addition to your tools, spare fuses etc...
Use your vacuum packer, a few wire connectors, fuses, a bit of wire etc...
Duck tape the plastic bag to the bottom of a hatch.
Since I've done that I haven't ever needed them out on the water.


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## Steve_Mevers (Feb 8, 2013)

mro said:


> For those that have the room.
> In addition to your tools, spare fuses etc...
> Use your vacuum packer, a few wire connectors, fuses, a bit of wire etc...
> Duck tape the plastic bag to the bottom of a hatch.
> Since I've done that I haven't ever needed them out on the water.


I have a small waterproof fishing plano type box with fuses and wire connectors that I keep in the boat. I was stranded once in the Everglades without a fuse, never again.


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Hope you get it going. I thought I was the only one with wiring problems 😊


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## Ben (Dec 21, 2016)

It was where the positive was coming into the panel at the Nav light switch. Corroded underneath the plastic terminal where it wasn’t too bad but enough to make it loose. Cleaned it up and all good for the trip. I’m going to tear the whole thing down over the holidays and make sure everything is clean and tight. Sheepshead bite was good.


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