# first bulkhead ever made! close enough to cut?



## NoeSmyrnaBch

It's close for sure. Check that left side a little, and make sure you get the top even with sides of the hull and totally level. 

Looks good though, nice work.


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## CurtisWright

looks good, but you dont need nida core for a buikhead. Just lay up 2 layers 1.5 oz chop strand mattes and 2 layers of woven roving.

The bulkheads on my Fowl River 16 build in the bragging section have that layup and they are more than sufficient.

You will need the Nida or divynal for the top deck though.


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## racer04

what would I lay the glass on to make it straight though? and I already purchased and cut nida core for front bulk head


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## racer04

excuse the construction material and new door in the backround lol


back bulk head 80% done just need a filler piece for middle and cut it level on top. note cards are really helping me fill up little gaps also my friend told me bout them and it works good to fill it perfectly if you want to get a crazy perfect fit


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## firecat1981

You can use the nidacore as a form and heavily glass around it for the bulkheads, but it won't be adding any real strength which is why CW is suggesting the straight glass. Foam core would be a better option, or even good marine ply. To make the glass straight you can do the layup on your garage floor, put down a few layers of heavy plastic drop cloth, and make sure it is smooth. When done one side will be smoother and thats the one you face outward, the rougher side will be out of site when done.

To be honest I'm not a fan of woven roving, it's used to add bulk more then strenght. I'd rather go with several layers of biaxial 1708 to 2408, but thats just me.


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## Brett

Hmmmm...1708 and 2408 are woven roving with a layer of 8 oz mat stitched to it.
In polyester resin work, alternating layers of 18 to 24 oz woven roving and 3/4 oz mat
are used to quickly lay up a hull to the needed thickness. So the 1708 and 2408 are
simply a way to get the same effect with fewer cuts, and use epoxy instead of polyester.
Mat is the weaker/filler material, roving is where the strength comes from.


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## firecat1981

Brett this is the first time in years I am going to disagree with you, 1708 and 2408 are stitched biaxial with a layer of mat attached, completely different then woven roving which is a heavy weight woven cloth. Yes they are used to build thickness and bulk, but in the same respect you can you any material and if you make it thick enough it will be strong. Also most of them are made for polyester, but some can be used with epoxy.


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## Brett

No worries FC. I enjoy a little discussion in the morning over coffee.
Biax 17 and 24 are just strands of fiberglass roving (17 oz and 24 oz per square yard)
stitched together at a 90 degree angle to each other and aligned to the roll so it makes a 45 degree pattern.
Woven roving uses those same strands of 17-24 oz fiberglass interwoven at a 90 degree angle
with the weave running in the same direction as the roll. Same materials, same 90 degree overlap,
the difference is how is comes off the roll. Nothing says you can't lay woven roving across a panel
to obtain the same 45 degree alignment.

Take a close look at the strands of roving in the biax

http://www.raka.com/Stitched_woven_biaxial_triaxial.html

and the strands in the woven roving

http://store.raka.com/18ozx50in.aspx

Rotate the woven 45 degrees and you end up with the same stuff.
2 layers of heavy fiberglass roving intended for bulk layup to save time
in a commercial setting.


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## firecat1981

Not disagreeing with most of that, but it's the interwoven part that sets them apart and I would rather not have in a heavier fabric. Woven is easier to use for hull layups, but we are talking about a flat panel here which should give little challenge. Really my preference would be to go with straight biaxial without the mat flanked with some 6oz cloth, but that would add a lot to cost. 

You see why I like working with wood now, lol ;D


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## CurtisWright

> what would I lay the glass on to make it straight though? and I already purchased and cut nida core for front bulk head



If you have already cut the Nida, then just use it. 

I bought a piece of Formika countertop material at lowes and glued it to a sheet of plywood and layed all my stuff up on it.  I made a right angle shape and layed the decks.  Then I cut my deck mold up and shaped it to make the center console mold.   Just wax it really good.    A hard high temperature wax is prefered,  but most of my parts, including my hull were pulled out using mcguires premium car wax.


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## CurtisWright

also, both brett and fire are right.  Woven roving or biaxial will work.  They both have the same density of glass fibers, but biaxial costs a little more becasuse the layers are stitched together instead of woven. (more labor intensive)

From my experience, the biaxial worked better on compound curves and draped a little easier.   I diddnt have to cut it as much making rounded shapes.   I used it in my hull.  But for flat parts i used woven because it was cheaper.


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## racer04

We'll I ended up getting 24 oz roven woven I'm going to use a layer directly on top of the nidacore... Or will that not bond? Also I was going to put 1 piece of 1 1/2 ounce chop mat on that I already cut the front bulk head... I wish I woulda posted this before to save me same money buy maybe I can salvage it and make it parts of my gunnels if I can join two pieces together? Also when I lay the bulk heads out on plastic over pliywood should I maybe add 6 inches to each side that I do not use resin on to make it to where I have something to glass into the floor and feather it in and sand it? Thank you for all the help


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## racer04

Also I already made a bulk head so should I just cut the piece of glass that dries to that I'm not quite understanding why I wouldn't just glass the nida core in


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## Recidivists

Do you realize how difficult it is to follow your posts without giving up on them?  Slow down.  Proper grammar, punctuation, and spelling go a long way on a forum.  You're all over the place.

Identify the subject, and then describe what you would like to do.  I guarantee that you would have received a plethora of responses earlier in this process if you could have communicated better.


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## cutrunner

He's trying to trype as fast as his mind thinks. I get it, I do the same thing and have to stop myself


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## racer04

To many endless thoughts I need more details as to what they said about bulk heads and how they work pretty much


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

Ok, so you have a bulk head glassed on both sides already, right?


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## racer04

Exactly, that's why I like talking on the phone better lol.

I have not glassed any bulk heads I just finish last night filling in where I cut the old seats out so now everything is even and flush. I have a bulkhead cut perfectly to the T for the bow I wanted to know what I should do next. I don't really understand how the laying out part goes after I lay the fiber glass on a smooth surface, how am I going to incorporate it in to the bottom of the boat? When I glass it on the ground do I just use the height of my bulk head and width of the boat then trace it to the bulkhead I've already made? then add material after to tie it into bottom floor of boat and top deck? I think that's where the grey area is. 

Once again I'll try to clarify better not good at online interactions I'll post pictures in a minute of what I have done so far to give you a better idea


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## racer04

it may not look it but its all flush. just need to sand it tonight. going to play with the back deck I already made and strengthen it up with a layer of roven woven and mat.


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## goon squad

Fly, I appreciate your enthusiasm, and this being your first build, take it slow or all your hard work and money spent will be for nothing. From your pics it looks like you need to spend more time with the grinder. Whenever you are bonding new glass to old (or new glass to new)it has to be prepped by grinding down to good, sound and clean glass and wiped down with acetone for a good bond. You don't want to take a boat wake and have anything bust loose.

Just my $.02     It will be a good learning experience for you, everyone is giving you pretty solid advice so take it and good luck on your build, don't get discouraged.

Did you build that b-ball hoop in the pic? ;D


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## racer04

Yes my little brother and I ******* ingenuity lol and yea I knew to clean the surface I actually forgot and grinded I did it with to fine of sand paper.... Im definitely learning a lot from this build that I won't be doing on my next build that is probably months away lol I love building things this is a hole new world for me though with only help from the internet. Will define fly take into consideration though this next time I hope it doesn't break away or come unbounded that will make me really upset :'(


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## racer04

I also don't know what "good" looks like which isn't helping me... I'll find my certain way that is good just like everyone else with time I'm sure. Big learning experience for sure


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

Looks like the bulk head fits pretty good, nice work. Thats probably the hardest part!

Keep in mind you're going to set your deck on top of that, so adjust height for that as needed. I dont know if you want the deck sitting all the way on top or set down from the sides of the boat a little. Looks like right now it will just plop down on top. If you do that, just remember you have to finish the edge of the nidacore and seal it real well. Have you thought about a hatch or opening in the bulkhead, or wil that be from the top? Might want to consider some way to get water out of the area in front of the bulk head.

As far as glassing it in place...here is what I did (I'm not sure if its right, but its strong so far)

Grind out a few inches in front and aft of the bulk head on the floor and sides of the boat. Lay a bead of resin with high density filler and smash the bulkhead down in it, then make a fillet (use your finger or one of the West system mixing sticks with the rounded edge) and get a nice clean rounded fillet. Then glass from the bottom and sides onto the bulkhead. 

Check this out, tons of great info for exactly what you need:
http://www.westsystem.com/ss/how-to-use/

specifically this part for bonding:
http://www.westsystem.com/ss/bonding-gluing-clamping/


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## racer04

I will be cutting 3/4 off the top of the bulkhead and fit it in from there. So pretty much I sand the back side and front side of the point where the nidacore goes how far a 1/16 of an in? Also should I glass the bulk head with roven let it dry sand the edges flush then add a hole new piece of chop and just glass the chop to the floor or leave the excess woven mat over hang on the nidacore and glass the woven first to the floor then pull the flap of chop down and glass that to at the same time


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## racer04

Well it's been 2 days and the resin still hasn't set even where I mixed it and put it on non glassed areas when I mixed it with the high density stuff to mix some holes it poured rain that night and humidity was extremely high even though it didn't get wet I think it's really slowing it down and I mad a huge mistake of not rolling it either with the aluminum roller so there isn't any air bubbles but there is ALOT of resin in there between the roven and the chop mat on top of that... I think I made a huge rookie mistake and might have to redo it all :-/


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

If it hasn't kicked in 2 days something is really wrong. I've laid glass in the garage while its raining out and it still kicked (but I kick mine pretty hot). How much MEKP did you add? Sorry  :-/

As far as bonding in the bulkhead, you'll need to grind out a strip a few inches wide where your bulk head is going to be placed. I'd say 4 inches or so. Then, lay a bead of resin with the HD filler in the middle of that ground out area, and plunk down the bulkhead. Then smooth out the excess if there is any that seeps out from the sides with your finger, making kind of a ramp between the bulk head and the hull. This will give you a rounded ramp that you can then lay some fiberglass on and glass in the bulk head.  You'll put the glass down so that it runs from the hull, over the rounded area (fillet) that you just created with the HD filler resin and onto the bulk head. Don't just bond it and move on without glass...you need to actually glass it in for strength. Check that 2nd link I posted this morning.
Also check this link. Its a terrible video with an old guy building some wood thing...but the idea is the same...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2Alt0N4jqo

You'll get it, don't worry. There is a lot to learn so you are going to make some mistakes


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## racer04

We'll everything kicked today when I put it in the hot ass sun except the back bench I filled in near the transom I put the same amount that I put to do the decks which set up nicely. The exact same amount it's like half a cap full. I just didn't roll all the excess resin out when I push on it it squeezes out... Not good I'm going to leave it in the sun tomorrow also and see if that'll finish it off Bc there is so much in there... It was tack today I just need it to fully cure


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## CurtisWright

> Well it's been 2 days and the resin still hasn't set even where I mixed it and put it on non glassed areas when I mixed it with the high density stuff to mix some holes it poured rain that night and humidity was extremely high even though it didn't get wet I think it's really slowing it down and I mad a huge mistake of not rolling it either with the aluminum roller so there isn't any air bubbles but there is ALOT of resin in there between the roven and the chop mat on top of that... I think I made a huge rookie mistake and might have to redo it all :-/



Use a graduated cylinder when mixing MEKP. If its 90F and you are working in the sun you can mix 20CC MEKP per gallon of poly resin. If your in the shade and 80F mix 25cc/gal. if its a cold day, mix 30cc/gal

You want to lay your bulkhead out on something flat or it will warp when it cures. 

I'll PM you my number, but it sounds like it would be best for you to go to a local fiberglass shop and watch them make a few parts. You will get the hang of it after that.


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## racer04

I only mix quarts so I was using what was needed for a 1/4 of a gallon which should be good for a quart im also really scared of it setting off on me to quick that's why I do it at night and id don't want to add to much since it will crack out and get brittle ive seen that happen more then my circumstance. it is all set up now im going to sand it down today and see if its dry all the way though its not mushy now


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## CurtisWright

ok, for a Quart, I'd use a syringe to measure it out exactly. In this weather at night I would shoot for about 6cc's


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

If it makes you feel any better, I tried to laminate the false floor piece that I"ll be using in my project and I obviously mixed something wrong...didn't cure and left a giant mess. I'll be at Higgs tomorrow getting supplies to re-do it  :-[


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## racer04

Thank you cwright I will do that for now on I jus do small applications is why I only use a little at a time I don't want to waste any! And I hate to hear that but at least I'm not the only one messing up around here I'm glad we have some people who are helpful and at least know more basics than I do! 

First time for everything


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## racer04

Back underside of deck is complete!! Thank you everyone once again for the help and ideas! Your giving me the patients to keep working on this thing haha 

Pictures coming soon!


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## racer04

The lines are where I over lapped the glass so it will be thickened in between those lines and that is where my platform is intended to be set on and bolted. also remember this is the bottom side so it doesn't have to be that pretty, there are some minor kinks but not really. also question? when I put the first layer to the nidacore it self should it be mat then everything after cloth, then proceed to put another layer on top of mat for finish coat? or it doesn't matter what I put first to the nidacore....


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## firecat1981

You can do it that way, or you can alternate layers. It really doesn't matter, finishing off with a layer or 2 of the lightweight mat may save a little fairing later on as you can use it as a sacrificial layer to sand into a little.

On the topic of the poling platform reinforcement, if that location doesn't work out you can add some patches after. Just figure out where the feet of the platform will rest, sand with some 80-120 grit sandpaper, clean the surface, and glass down some patches. Use a few layers of cloth and make them a few inches bigger on each side then the feet are.


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## racer04

Sounds good thank you again! Now for the topic of bulkhead again, glass iron the inside part first with 3 inches or so that's not class to the core yet then stick it with high density or stick it bare with no glass on it fair in edges of high density with wooded rounded stick to make a nice filet and then add glass? :


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## firecat1981

I think your autocorrect is getting the best of you again cause I'm not exactly sure what you are saying there.


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## racer04

It is sorry. The question is do I glass the bulk head before I put it in.... Or do I stick it in the bottom of the boat with high density resin without being glassed (just the core it self)?

Also I'm running a fuel line from the front of the boat and also my livorsi nav lights to the back of the boat. I wanted to come down the port side gunnel with both. What should I glass into the trough to cover them up? I thought about maybe pipe cut in half but then I was also thinking about putting a strip of glass 4-6 inches wide that Is already glassed in the middle 2 inches of the strip so it would be "flat" once it dries then glass the excess into the side of the boat. 

Sorry if I'm getting ahead of myself I can just do a lot in one day such as today when I have nothing to do and run out of ideas how to do it. 

I also need an idea for the front deck that has rotted wood under it. I will post picture in a minute. I don't know if I should cut the bottom pieces out that were glassed in wood pieces to give it structure, then add some type of other structure again to it so it has support again... Or cut the hole thing out and glass a new deck which I really don't want to do...


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## whm302

fly,
question for ya... are you glassing the whole sheet of core material and then cutting your bulkhead shape from your sheet that you already glassed?? just wondering because your working yourself twice as hard and wasting a lot of material thats just gonna end up as scrap on the ground somewhere.. cut your bulkhead shape out (from your template) of your core material then glass that cutdown then trim up the excess inch or so of overhang.. you will save yourself a ton of resin and glass in the long run..

as far as how to install the bulkhead.. not going into properties here but rather a process... but this is what i do... mix up thickened epoxy (some ppl use construction adhesives)... lay bead of epoxy or adhesive down the entire lenght of the bulkhead your installing.. let that cure, come back sand/grind and excess away that might interfere with laying a good fillet down.. once you have sanded, take thickened epoxy or fillet material and lay a smooth fillet the entire length of bulkhead on both sides (if applicable).. let that cure (i have also seen people embed glass into the fillet as they are laying it but thats usually high strength situations).. once fillets cure, sand out any imperfections.. then lay 6"-12" wide strip of biaxial fiberglass to tab in the bulkhead.. then you can build up your bulkhead from there as need be with CSM/Cloth or something like 1208 or 1708.. maybe this will help.. and once again not giving you lamintaion or adhesive specifics rather a process of how to install and tab in a bulkhead.


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## racer04

Already cut to shape!


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## racer04

Also this was very helpful thank you I already have them cut out just wasn't sure how to stick it but you anwsered it thank you again! I will be doing this tomorrow as soon as I figure out what I want to do with the electrical situation and fuel line...


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## racer04

I cannot for the life of me find bi axle in any stores near me :'( only Mat, fab mat, woven roven, and cloth. I have 1.5 ounce mat, some thicker 6 inch wide roll of Mat I was given and 6 oz cloth which I find to be easier to work with...


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## racer04

Also I'm under the impression I need to sand the entire length of where I'm going to put the bulkhead like 8 or so inches wide so that when I lay my glass into it, it has an even finish to the existing floor on both sides of the bulk head once I build up the material. 

Also another question comes with that now... I think someone told me the bulk head does not need that much glass. Will the tab on the bottom plus a layer butted up to the tab, plus a piece that is the full length as a finish coat be adequate.

Something like 6 oz cloth tab. 6 oz cloth mated into the tab to the top of the bulkhead. Finally putting a "full" sheet of fiberglass over the both of those so there is no seems and I was going to make this a piece of 1.5 mat.

I was going to cut the hole into the bulk head to which will save me some resin also. Square or a half oval? I was leaning towards half oval but may make it square invade I put I cover on it.. Going to have to do some research on normal size bulkhead hatches so I don't have to get a custom one if I do.


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

> Also I'm under the impression I need to sand the entire length of where I'm going to put the bulkhead like 8 or so inches wide so that when I lay my glass into it, it has an even finish to the existing floor on both sides of the bulk head once I build up the material.


Yes, that is correct. It won't be perfect though, so expect to do some more sanding/fairing once its in place.


> Also another question comes with that now... I think someone told me the bulk head does not need that much glass. Will the tab on the bottom plus a layer butted up to the tab, plus a piece that is the full length as a finish coat be adequate.


I don't see why that wouldn't work. How crazy are you going to get in this boat? 




> I was going to cut the hole into the bulk head to which will save me some resin also. Square or a half oval? I was leaning towards half oval but may make it square invade I put I cover on it.. Going to have to do some research on normal size bulkhead hatches so I don't have to get a custom one if I do.


Just keep in mind that whatever you cut out in that nidacore is going to need to be filled so you don't have exposed honeycomb. I did a square for my switch panel and it was a total pain in the ass, I couldn't think of a good way to do a circle unless you use super thick resin/filler mixture but then it won't run into the honeycombs  and you'll have air in there.


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## racer04

Next idea is to keep a 2 inch or so lip on the bottom so my gas tank doesn't come out... More filling in combs but I don't want it to come sliding out. 

For rod gunnels should I cut the holes now or wait untill after I tab it.. I want to use 1 1/4 PVC pipe but I think I need to cut the holes first and then Fill the combs and slide the pipe in with 5200 to keep them locked into it. 

The back bul head is going to have to hold up a 3 foot piece of pipe in each hole or I need to build somthing to support the PVC maybe glass them to the transom since they will be touching it...


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## racer04

(My rod gunnels are going to be "backwards" you could say is why there long in back not the front. The front will only be like enough to hold the butts of the rods. 

When the bulk head is being glassed in should I leave a flap at the top unglassed to then fold it over the top deck when I put it on so it saves me some filling work? 

Sorry for all the questions I just like everything to be as best as it can be with not a hole lot of regrets


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## goon squad

> I cannot for the life of me find bi axle in any stores near me :'( only Mat, fab mat, woven roven, and cloth. I have 1.5 ounce mat, some thicker 6 inch wide roll of Mat I was given and 6 oz cloth which I find to be easier to work with...



Surplus Unlimited on ISB (92) has biaxle already cut  18"x36"     18"x72"     or Jack will cut what you need, just call first and tell him what you need because he needs time to get it cut.  Jack can be a little grumpy but he's a good guy.


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## racer04

Thank you. In all the times I've been in there I've never saw any glass


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## racer04

New update I just found out. My strakes are rotted.. What foam should I use to fill them up and glass back in... Also since I'm cutting that all out what paint should I use to do the inside all over again... :-[ how structural are the strakes can I get away with not putting anything in them... Taking a lot out of he budget I didn't plan for


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## racer04

If I do end up replacing it I guess gel coat is best but what's after that awlgrip I want easier novice type things to deal with. Also the foam need to be able to be glassed in the side of my boat to attach a rod holder for my gunnels that I will be glassing in sooner or later after all these hick ups


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## firecat1981

Post up some pictures of what you are talking about, because what you call strakes might not be.


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## racer04

okay 3 separate topics here. 

First, 
I have identified the strakes as being cardboard I do not think they were ever meant to have structural integrity in the boat, besides shaping the strakes since they are so thick. here is a picture anyways though




second, 
there must have been a prior hole in the vessel since there was no roven woven in this spot. I am going to glass it up pretty thick with a piece of mat then 3 pieces of 6 oz cloth and maybe stick a piece of woven in there so its structurally sound again.


this in the front of the boat also. the strake was discovered in rear of boat. 

third, 
the front existing deck is rotted slap out and this actually is wood. I might just leave it since when you barely hold up the end of it that I cut off, it becomes stiff. I cut the end piece off so I could get the decks to mount flush together. ill post a pic of what I cut off that was making it structurally sound and then go from there with you alls thoughts as to what I should do. 

this picture isn't the best but look at the front deck its curved like a U that's sideways,


after I cut it off so I could mate decks solidly together. it became flimsy and I discovered...


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## racer04

is this biaxle? im not sure what it is but its pretty damn thick. I got it for free so I was going to try to use it but if its to heavy I might not I don't really know what it is. the guy told me to put the mat side down and the cloth side up. he said it was call dmb or double matted something and thought that's maybe what biaxle was called now but unsure.


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## racer04

Strake is sealed and taken care of and so is hole in bottom of boat now! On to fixing the front deck now then sticking front bulk head and cutting back one. Add decks and gunnels and I'll be pretty close!


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## racer04

DBM also not dmb. (double braided mat) I think


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## whm302

this will work for your application... depending on what area you may want to use 6-12 oz glass
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=2075&familyName=6%22+Fiberglass+Tape


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## racer04

I have this exact stuff in a 6 in roll but its mat and it at least 10 oz ... its thick like at least 6 or 7 pieces thick of my 1.5 ounce butits hard to bend... I might just use my 6 oz cloth and cut it into strips of 6 inches since I have way to much of it. also after I make the tabs should I butt the new material to it that I finish up with?


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## whm302

basically what you will do is make a fillet around the entire bulkhead. once the fillet cures and imperfections sanded out, apply resin approx 4" on the bulkhead and 4" along the floor or side of the boat (depending what area your working with). then take your 6" strips and try to center the strip along the fillet, roughly 3" of the tape will be on your bulkhead and 3" on your floor or side of boat. then apply more resin on top of the tape until its wet out enough. run the tape the entire length of you edge (everywhere you have a fillet run). and let it cure, then use fairing compound to fix the uneven spots from your tape overlapping.


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## racer04

So I shouldn't cut slits in the glass so it forms to the ground better? And leave little gaps? And whatever this new thick DBM I am going to use on the top of the deck for the front because the back deck is still flimsy with 3 layers of 6 oz cloth on top it bows a lot so when I glass it I'm going to have to put a two by 4 in for a brace to hold it level...


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## racer04

Okay HUGE priority right now to answer. Can I glass two pieces of nidacore together if I stick it together with high density to bond one anothers honey combs together then glass over top of that to make them a single sheet? This will save me a lot of money for top deck in the front since it's 51 inch wide and not 48 and I already cut a long piece out of two of the sheets to make two bulkheads


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## racer04

Also I only have one side glassed but it has 3 layers of 6 oz Mat and it's flimsy as hell. Is it going to stiffen up and not move any when I put another 2 or 3 on the top side or should I put some meat to it with just one layer of that dbm I posted that's thick stuff


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## whm302

Put a layer on the bottom side and u will be amazed how much stiffer that will make it. As far as relief cuts to install the tape along the bulkheads, its fine as long as you just overlap the reliefs cuts with each other don't just cut the glass off in way of making a smooth cut.. if that makes any sense...


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## racer04

I see what your saying. Just over lap them and sand the humps down or overlapped piece once they dry.. Makes sense. What material should I use though? The dbm, 6 oz cloth or the mat that I got in a 6 in wide roll that's pretty thick and pre cut


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## racer04

No experience with glassing two panels of nida core together? :-/


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## Gramps

> No experience with glassing two panels of nida core together?  :-/


You'll need to butt block the back side - add a cut piece of nidacore glued over the joint overlapping both sides of the nida.



















If not you're likely to have the panels break apart.

Can't comment on what glass to use given what you have on hand. I only have experience with biaxial.


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## racer04

the very last piece of fiberglass I posted a pic of is just like biaxle I think. what do you think about doing a bulkhead with the panel idea? I know nidacore doesn't have very good vertical strength majority of strength is in horizontal, deck applications...


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

I would think you could do the bulk in two pieces if you butt it together like the picture above shows. Just make that your inside of the bulk. I would NOT do that on the top deck though.

Your nidacore will stiffen up considerably once you get glass on both sides, especially a few coats, or some of that other thick stuff you got

Surplus Unlimited on ISB in Daytona has all kind of that stuff for cheap too.. I used some on my build and it was pretty good stuff. Not as strong as the fab mat, but not nearly as resin-thirsty either.


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## racer04

I think I might just get bi axle to tab the bulk heads in and then butt cloth up to it untill it's about the same thickeness. I'm not going to do the double panel on the deck anymore! I am redoing the front little piece now so I don't have to make it a panel any longer. I can have my 5 foot deck like I wanted


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## firecat1981

The stuff you pictured doesn't look like biaxial, it looks like some sort of woven cloth to me. You don't need it anyway, it's just nice to have for larger projects. Stick with the 6oz cloth you have readily available, it will do all you need. You can use 2 or 3 layers to build up the strength you need, once the nida is glassed on both sides it will become stiff.


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## racer04

I'm putting it level with the face so it can grab the back of the mini bulkhead face to hold half the wieght up. It just so happen that 3/4 piece made the deck perfectly even in height. should I cut this piece? I don't know how to stick it since it is kind of heavy I thought maybe putting pvc between the floor and it to hold it up might work but im not sure.











yes I know I have to sand and clean the surface up more down there just couldn't see it well enough tonight. 

what should I do from here? :-?


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## whm302

if your going nida core why even throw any wood in it?? if your planning on spanning that whole 5' deck without any under deck stiffeners, theres your problem... it would take a heaping pile of glass to make that deck where it wouldn't sag any under pressure.. very simple and cheap fix, instead of wasting glass, goto lowes and buy you 2 or 3 1"x2" furring stips... run 2 or 4 of them (depending width of your boat) length wise... attach them to the front of your boat and the bulkhead with some sorts of adhesive and or screws to hold them in place.. once that cures glass them to the bottom side of you deck... adding plywood to the center of your deck isn't going to do anythign but create shear along your edges of your top deck which will fail since your using nida core... do it right and quit piece milling "a fix" together.. do some research instead of wasting glass and resin.. its pricey


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## racer04

Well I think your missing that beefing this up is going to save me a lot since the nidacore will only then be 30 in wid since this is already an existing 30. So why would in get rid of it? More work plus nidacore only comes in 4x8 my deck is 52x5 so it would be impossible anyways. This is the route I'm taking I think it's most reasonable and I'm not cutting a good deck out just to mess with more nidacore. Patients is running low for this material. Next build will definitely have more research into coosa or Some other type of materials.


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## racer04

I'm going to add the firm strip idea to I didn't think about that. I have plenty of it laying around my house and that would be easy to liquid nail to the bottom and hold up with a brace. I don't think screws are needed. I also read to not use pressure treated plywood.


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## racer04

Also should I glass the strips before I put them in and sand them lightly. I might run them 2 on the outside of the front deck then two coming out of the middle of the bot to the piece of nida I'm going to put in.


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## racer04

Why wouldn't I run them putt to starboard either just wondering?


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## firecat1981

No screws! screws can be used temporarily, but never leave them in or glass over them, they will work their way to the surface and undermine the glass.

Also I would not use liquid nails, it is not suited to this, use more thickened resin.

It's going to be more of a headache to try and save that piece then to just cut it out and do it the right way. But if you do try to use wood strips to support anything, they need to be fully encapsulated in resin, should be epoxy resin, 2-3 coats will keep them going for a while.


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## racer04

I think just doing the 4 foot deck like you said will work... I'm going to cut top piece out I guess them cut my nida to fit glass the bottom let it cure with 6 in unresined Matt hanging off the sides and then glass that in along with tabbing that to the existing old bulkhead I'm laying it on top of an it will sit flush


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## racer04

Unresined 6 oz cloth*


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## racer04

Also correction I have 4x7 sheets of nida core wonderful so now with my 3 foot deck in the back and 4 ft in the front my gunnels are 7"4 4 inches shortof just running a single piece. What now.. I'm slicing them somewhere where's it going to be is the question


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## whm302

you are making this WAY to hard on yourself... look at LWalkers build... mimic it.. you dont have to have a full 5' sheet of nida to make a 5' deck.. you can just join peices together.. in the link look how he supported the under deck (pretty much what i was explaining to you earlier).. dig around here and follow some reputable builds. and yes i agree with the screws as only temp. support (should have clarified that earlier).. see how lwalker has 2 peices of ply wood to make up his deck... but for your case you may have to add more under deck supports since ur using nida
http://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1377801547/15


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## racer04

I'm one of the best at over thinking an idea... Can't help it. I'll check it out thank you.


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## racer04

I just want to float in 2 inches..... that all I ask for ;D I don't know how this "simple project" from day one with no knowledge got so difficult. 

that boat helped me a lot with gunnel ideas and some other little things. im thinking maybe doing like a butter fly type or 2 separate pieces. one half on one side and another half on the other with a support beam down the middle to act as a block but it will already be glassed into front of boat and the bulkhead. good idea or no?

im not touching the boat untill I get a solid clue here then put it all into action.


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## racer04

okay so im good with pictures. very visual learner here. sorry if its kinda messy but here is my idea and hope someone will agree at least a little... 






hope this is right... if not if you could post a simple drawing to help I would be extremely appreciative. my brain doesn't work like most of the people on here because im inexperienced with all of this


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## trplsevenz

Whatever you do, get the leaving flaps of glass out of your head. once the resin cures to the edges of the core, the flaps are going to be near impossible to work as tabbing material. trim it flush and bed with thickened resin, then tab everything in fresh.


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## racer04

thank you I was waiting for a better alternative!


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## racer04

also putting the 2x4 on end which is strongest and ripping it down an inch. if you have something wrong with this way please tell me a better alternative not just that my ideas are pointless. I keep getting those vibes.


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## trplsevenz

As I told you before when I posted the bertram31.com link, look at "top hatting" that section. You can do it with strips of nidacore glassed to the underside of the deck. forget the 2x4 and read that link i sent before.


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## goon squad

> I just want to float in 2 inches.....
> 
> Fly, my man, if you want to float in 2 in. you better buy a SUP and take the skeg off! also, do you over think getting a piece of ass like you do this boat or do you just go for it?
> 
> My guess is this will be the longest thread in history, still going strong in 2015. Will the boat be done? Hell will the deck be done? Any bets? :-?
> 
> Just messing with ya Fly


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## racer04

Just watched a video on 1708 wow. How many layers of this stuff do I need to tab my bulkheads in with this stuff? And how many layers of 6 0z cloth do I need rematch about the same thickness? 

Also when i put my filet down I am going to mix cabosil in it.. Will this be okay or should I add mill fiber also?


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## racer04

Hahahahah feedinskeeters ;D I'm gettin there! If I just had used plywood and quit tryin to be all professional I woulda been done weeks ago I think! Next project will not be this long 

P.s. I've been with my ass for 4 years now and she's about to be a private dr. So I don't know what id do lol


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## whm302

Do u just not read what we tell u or the links we send u? Use the 6" tape to tab with... if u have 6oz cloth or something close to that cut strips of it.. 1708 is for bulk and strength not what you need for tabbing in a bulkhead.. take a breath digest what we tell u.. and quit running urself in circles.. take baby steps in the right direction.. set mini goals... lets point out a guideline for u and lets focus at one task at hand.. where do u want to start? If it was me I would cut off what u have already started (deck wise) and lets get ur front bulkhead top fixed and squared up.


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## racer04

Well tonight I cut the old front deck off. I sanded all the edges nicely with 80 grit. Everything that I wanted to stick glass to. 

Also I havnt put anything in the boat? I made a back deck that's about it. 

I also made 1 half of the front deck which I will post in a minute. That's my goal is to get bulk head tabbed in then glass it tomorrow. It's already cut and ready I'm going to lay a bead of cabosil resin where I'm going to stick it then add a filet as that sets up. After that I will tab it depending on whether I like the fillet or not I might add another filet to make it more round then tab it. So now my question is, how many layers need to be tabbed. 1 or 2? After I tab it, do I add two more layers to the entire bulkhead? That's where I'm at right now


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## racer04




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## racer04

that piece will also reflect and make another one to! so I ended up using maximum nidacore with little waste. im pretty happy where I stand now.


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## racer04

also I guess I didn't post my finish bulk head...? or maybe it didn't post.. here it is. im going to cut hole after I tab it so I don't waste all that material and resin. also will cut 3/4 off the top of it to make the top deck flush.


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## Recidivists

I've figured out the problem. You should not post in English.


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## racer04

I'm about to not post at all.


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## trplsevenz

> I'm about to not post at all.



The problem is not with your posting, it's with your not listening. There are quite a few helpful posts and links for that matter that you obviously do not take the time to read. This shows by asking the same questions repeatedly, when the answers have been stated before. It also does not help that half of your posts are not understandable. Stick with one question/task at hand, gain insight from the forum, complete the task and then move on to the next and ask another question. You have to complete small tasks when building a boat, and not get lost in the other 40,000 tasks that it takes to get the boat finished.


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## racer04

I've looked over them is all. Or they didn't open for some reason or another. 

I try to ask questions ahead to knock out decent chunks at a time, since every Wednesday I have a full 12 hours to work on it and run out of "baby steps" to do. 

I am going to tab front bulkhead in tonight and cut out the back one also and tab both in.

tomorrow morning I will finish the bulk heads cutting the faces out, overlapping glass on the tabs to fill out the rest of the non glassed areas. 

and then ill worry about this "top hatting" business after I get done with that and cut my front deck to shape.


is this to much?


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## racer04




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## trplsevenz

You've got plenty of glass ground out where your bulkheads are going. Personally, i would glass both sides of my bulkheads, let them kick off real good, then trim the excess off. it's much easier to glass while its flat on a table. I would leave the planned cutouts also. Its not that much resin and glass and will be easier for you in the long run. Once trimmed, figure out how you are going to hold your bulkheads in place while you fillet them in place with thickened resin. I suggest a straight piece of lumber across the gunnels, then clamp down to your bulkhead. once this kicks off, then you can tab in with a 4" then an 8" strip across the fillet, overlapping the joint. I would use 1708 strips, then a layer of CSM to fill the weave and any hiccups the 1708 has. CSM covers alot of imperfections. If you do this for both bulkheads, you will get another boost of personal satisfaction, then you can move on to adding the decks on top.


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## racer04

See one persons telling me one thing and another is telling me somthibg else. I have 6 oz cloth at my disposal also some 6 in wide thicker mat. I was going to get 1708 but someone said just use what I have which I was going to. I now 1708 is easier to work with and stronger. So should I just get it and be done or use what I have. 

Also I do not know what csm is I'll look it up now though.


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## racer04

Okay well csm is code for chop mat. Glad I learned that abbreviation now to. ;D


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## racer04

I was going to use 8 inch strip then 4 in of 6 oz then a piece of mat. Should I get 1708 or not?


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## trplsevenz

use what you have if you want. 1708 is going to be a stronger tab, but may be overkill. lay the 4" first, then the 8" over that.


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

Not sure what your plan is for the cutout once its done, but just remember you are going to need to fill the edges since its Nidacore. 

If it were me, I'd glass the whole bulk head on both sides, then cut out the area you want to remove and fill with some sort of resin with filler. I would do this BEFORE you put the bulk head in the boat though, because you will not be able to do the sides or the top very well. If you do it out of the boat, you can pour one of the four edges, wait for it to dry, then rotate the bulk head and pour the next edge and so on, until you fill all 4 edges.


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## racer04

I got some stuff that's called dura glass best investment so far. It's easy thick, waterproof, and sands and dries perfectly. Fills cells really well and when I cut out the middle of the bulkhead it will do the top no problem since it's so thick.


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## racer04

Also front bulkhead is all finished and came out way nicer than I planned! No air bubbles, no blemishes. I took my time and pre cut and fit the tabs so it came out nicely


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## racer04

Ran out of 6 oz cloth, can I use a couple layers of 1708 on my splice of the 2 separate pieces of nida or should I use another piece of nida to glass in? This is also for the front TOP piece of the deck I just thought a hole other strip of nida core would be to much


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## racer04

Also If I do end up throwing a piece of nida in to top hat it should I stagger it to one side a littl more? (Id rather not) or could I run it up dead center and be okay.

Also should a glass the two pieces of nida together with 1.5 then stick the top hat piece then go over that with 3 layers of 6 oz? How would you lay the seems out for this or the over lapping joints I should say since the cloth is not wide enough


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## trplsevenz

I dont see where the problem is just butting the nida together. the core just provides spacing between the glass layers to promote stiffness in the finished panel. The butted sections are not going to break apart if you have enough glass on both sides. i would butt them up and glass what would be your top side first, with whatever schedule you make up. then i would carefully flip the panel over and glass the bottom side completely. (you'd be amazed at the stiffness the panel is at this point) After the bottom side is glassed, then take you another strip of nida about 6" or so wide, and the length of your butted sections, and bond it centered, down that line. then glass over this with the same schedule you used on the bottom, alternating the widths as you go outward. i guarantee you will not flex the panel at this point. you can also add top hats going sideways on each side to increase the lateral stiffness of the panel.


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## racer04

okay I will try that then. I amazed at how strong 2 layers of 6 oz cloth is on either side of the bulkhead. I will do this tonight hopefully and post more progression!


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## racer04

of course i opted to do it a little harder and not cut out the hole first. ididnt want to do that since it would be to flimsy i thought. i have some stuff called duraglass thats thick and wil stick in the combs wonerfully and sands down just like glass since it is just a short hair fiber glass mixture. alot thicker and easier to work with than mixing cabosil. 

i will still probably stick the back bulkhead with a cabosil mixturre but run my filet with duraglas.


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## racer04

once again im not sticking my pieces with this since its bonding streght once dry is close to a cabosil mixture but it dones lay a mighty fine filet and sands easily to make round


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## trplsevenz

just be careful with at stuff as it is 40-50%talc. talc absorbs water, so you need to seal that stuff really well.


> once again im not sticking my pieces with this since its bonding streght once dry is close to a cabosil mixture but it dones lay a mighty fine filet and sands easily to make round


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## racer04

Okay thank you! Paint will be satisfactory as a sealing agent correct? I'm going to fill combs, sand flush, then paint. 

On another positive note I cut out the front deck and will post picture later after I get done sanding. It came out awesome, now for glass tmrw after some more prep work occurs tonight!


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## Rediculous

If by satisfactory, you mean better than nothing. Yes. But an epoxy primer would be far beyond satisfactory.


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## racer04

What would you guys recommend for a cheap paint I saw someone using rustoleum on a thread that was 15$ a quart. I wanted to awlgrip the tops of the decks with granules in it but I don't need awlgrip on the hole boat expescially underneath the decks where I just want painted but no one will really see it a whole lot. To make it easier, I want cheap stuff on the under side of the decks Bc why have expensive? And expensive stuff for top decks. I also might get crazy and tape a boarder


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## Gramps

I'd suggest a lower cost & less volatile paint (fumes). Rustoluem or some other form of mono-urethane paint since you're on a budget. Awlgrip can be silly expensive and not worth the cost for a first timer IMO.

You can add in the non-skid granules to the paint, just toss on top after the first coat of paint while it is still wet & they will stick. The second coat goes over the granules to lock them into place.


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## racer04

Rolling will be okay also? Not brushing I've painted a few houses but never a boat. Also what type of primer? I think I'm going to use topside rustoleum


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## Gramps

Roll & tip is a good method. Check with the guys here that have used Rustoleum for application procedures. Staying with the same brand of paint & primer is your best bet.

I am using System Three Yacht Primer on my boat and will be top coating with System Three LPU paint using roll & tip. Should work well from what I've been told but I'll know Sunday!


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## racer04

I'm unfamiliar with the word "tipping" is that like a boat term for cutting in it somthing? I also bought a pound of medium granules just now and am going to paint the baottom sides of the decks tonight. Or atleast a good majority since I'm going to leave like a 6 inch border so when I tab it from the bottom it will have bare glass to bond to not paint


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## Gramps

Exactly what it sounds like. Roll on the paint and tip off the air bubbles with a brush. 

Follow this link for a LOT of good how to's and see the videos as well: http://boatbuildercentral.com/howto.php#.UmBAnlBQEdw

Roll & Tip info: http://boatbuildercentral.com/howto/sterling_roll_tip.php#.UmBAz1BQEdw


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## racer04

Sweet I'll watch that tonight! Now... 

To glass the tops of the decks before I put them in or

Tab the bottoms in and glass all the way across the boat and glass it to the sides all in one. 

For the back I might have to since it's a little bowed my theory is putting a couple braces under it while I fab the bottom and throwing a heavy piece of ply on top of it while I tab it and it will straighten up since the tabs will be holding it level


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

I used the Rustoleum topsider inside my hatch areas and will be using it throughout the interior of my build and will probably do the outside with it too. I rolled/tipped in the hatch areas but I'm going to spray the rest for the best possible outcome. So far its been awesome, has held up to some dropped tools without even a dent or scratch. I went with Semi-Gloss white but had to order it from Lowes since none of the local big-box stores had the Semi...They only had the Gloss white in stock.


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## racer04

I ended up getting oyster shell white to do the tops of my decks and regular white for the insides of everything else that will barely be seen. I hope the gloss isn't to glossy or im going to be upset. also my platform top im getting from ankona is going to be matching but they paint with awlgrip 

how many coats of primer and paint each? I was thinking 2 or 3 and what grit sand paper do I use to sand it between each coat?

also any compounds to level the unfairness I cant sand out to make it level? 


thanks for the help everyone


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## racer04

also seperate topic for maybe someone else to answer!

if I use a layer of 1708 on my gunnels will that be enough on each side of the gunnel to keep it sturdy.... there is a support brace 4 foot into it (half way down the gunnel) that is glassed into bottom of the boat. this is going to be 9 inches wide and also act as a rod holder to support the middle of my rods on each side of the boat. just wondering if I could get away with less support and more glass....the gunnel is also 9 inches wide.


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## racer04

Back deck cut out for fuel line and battery to site beneath. also adding a cross beam if nida to it so its more stable and I wont have to put an extra bulkhead



glassing it before I put this one in also filling up combs before I put it in.



filled both exposed side of the stinger with resin so its sealed also.



top deck color.



filled in combs already (older pic)


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## racer04




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## racer04

Any help on what I should do for front deck, the bottom is glassed I fitted it perfectly today but there is going to be a little gap between the side of the boat and the nida deck. Should I tab it from under neath them fill that with resin the gap that's left? Also any tips on tabbing while I'm under the deck to make my life easier? 

I'm going to run a filet with duraglass so I have a rounded surface to work the 2 layers of 6 oz glass into so it's easier and will also hold the deck steady while tabbing


----------



## DuckNut

You should cut down the bulkhead to make it fit properly.

Where are your perimeter support blocks?


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## racer04

I didn't make any I have two bulkheads so I didn't think I needed one. Also it is that's why the nida core is flush in that picture


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## racer04

What's the purpose of blocks when it's flush and will have 2 layers of tabs under it?


----------



## Gramps

You run the risk of the deck deflecting.  Using blocks is the easiest and most sure method to support the deck at the edges. See the sketch below:


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## racer04

the sketch didn't work and how would I tab around them that seems like a pain in the ass going over the curves of the blocks when I tab it.


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## Gramps

You don't tab around them. They sit under the deck. Like a table top on legs. Glue the blocks in place & let them harden (overnight?). The next day place thickened resin on the tops of the blocks, set the deck in place & fill gap between deck & hull with thickened resin, lay on fiberglass tape/"tabs" and there you go.

Look at this picture:



See how there are "blocks" or "cleats" around the perimeter of the floor? The edges of the floor will sit on those blocks/cleats for support. Building a deck is the same process, just grabbed that picture from Bateau's forum, gotta give credit to CrackerLarry for his photo.


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## racer04

thank you for the drawling also gramps that was awesome that's what im talking about doing I just don't know what material to use. nidacore isn't a universal material without a lot of work to make it the right material im figuring out.

definitely like the visuals better than words.


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## racer04

also with those steps when I add the tabs do I glass right over them? because that glass is a pain trying to tuck it around the corners and get a solid bond with no air bubbles


----------



## Gramps

Fly we have a problem with communication. The "tabs" you are referring to (I believe) are cleats. "tabs" I speak of are fiberglass tape used to mate two surfaces, typically over a fillet.

Do me a favor and go read the link below. It will answer MANY of your questions, put us on the same terminology page and make life easier for everyone.  http://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=12018

To answer your question you do not need to glass the deck in from the bottom. The top of the deck is laid in a thickened resin putty/glue, seam filled with a fillet, and then glass tape laid over the rolled edge, fillet, and onto the deck. This system locks everything into place.


----------



## BugDopeforENP

Take a look at how the deck on an IPB 16 just sits on a lip in the first picture http://www.flafishingforum.com/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/topic/2305/gonew/1

I believe Gramps is aiming towards that, but not running the lip the length of the boat, just inside and under the deck and in little sections. I'm referring to the drawing on the page before.


----------



## racer04

I think we're on the same page gramps. My definition before I look at this new one is either a 4 to 8 inch wide strip of glass, but I'll check out the two links now thank you! Locking it in from the top will bra lot easier than my way I just want to make sure it's solid and not moving


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## racer04

I used "tabs" to anchor my bulkhead and to the floor is also another example I have already used it with 1 piece of 4 in and 1 piece of 8 in wide 6 oz cloth. I hope I have enough glass on the bottoms of my decks.. Somewhere around 12-13.5 just on one side (bottom side)


----------



## racer04

Also I definetly get the concept now, sweet looking ipb also! I just don't know what material to use to make the blocks and then hold then exactly where I want maybe clamp them?


----------



## Gramps

Good deal Fly! For the block material you can use pieces of nidacore or any material that will bond really.

To set the levels of the blocks start with the top of the deck (where you want it to be) subtract the thickness of your deck & draw a line. This line will be the top of the blocks. They are bonded into place with thickened resin, I use epoxy, wood flour & silica, and clamped to the boat. Let them setup for a day or so then proceed with installing the deck.

See the pictures of the wood boat a few posts up? That is one way to clamp the blocks while the resin cures.


----------



## racer04

okay I have scrap nida pieces. when you say bond them to the side I get that but does the nida need to be sealed up before? like combs filled and one side of it glassed, and the other side not which would bond to the boat? 

thank you again for your patients, im trying to refine my million thoughts inside my head.


----------



## Gramps

The cores facing into the boat should be filled, once they are glued to the boat the cores facing the hull will be filled with thickened resin. Since the strength of the nidacore results from the cores parallel to the force, I would glue the blocks with the cores parallel to the hull sides.


----------



## racer04

Okay sounds good also I'll probably use mill fiber since that what I have, I think it's just as good as wood flour same purpose to add strength but your are positively saying the tops of the nida can stay bare with no glass sorry if I'm beating the horse to death with that question I just don't think it has any strength without glass on either side of it before I stick it


----------



## racer04

On second thought when you say cores I'm taking that only as the outer edges... Do you mean the entire black filled with resin? Then I might see where your coming from lol that thing will b just as solid as glassing it but that's a lot of resin.

Also I only have some cheap epoxy resin unfortunately, all I have been using is polyester which I know epoxy is loved on here but that's all I have that's still good the other resin epoxy is kind of old I'm scared to use it and it not work


----------



## DuckNut

Go to the lumber yard and buy 1"x2"x8' douglas fir strips.

Lay your deck in place where you want it and then draw a line underneath to get the distance from the gunnel (top rail) you need. Then draw a line that far down all along the hull where you want the deck to go. 

Cut the douglas fir in 12" lengths and glue them all the way around, to the side of the hull just below that line.

After that cures, make up thickened resin and spread that on top of the strips and bulkheads and set the deck in place.

After that cures fill the gap with thickened resin, wait until it kicks and then lay a layer or two of wetted cloth to tie it to the gunnels.

After that, sand it and go to the next project. This is a 2 hour job with one spent getting the wood.


----------



## racer04

I have the wood already on hand but I wasn't trying to use wood. I know it's easier but I'm trying to stay away from it since I think epoxy resin is optimal for wood which I don't have and I just don't like the fact of wood even if it's sealed right.


----------



## racer04

Gramps what's your thoughts on this? I could do wood easy and just go get some epoxy but I feel like why not use what I have a complete set of already and stick with the whole no wood fling I'm on, also not bashing it I know it's strong but that's not what I want, I don't think.


----------



## NoeSmyrnaBch

Why use wood now when you've already spent the money on the nidacore. Doesn't make sense to me. 

I can't say I would use nida either though since it's usually structural in one direction and in this case, not the direction you want. 

What are the sizes of the decks? Mine are held in by 1" X 1/2" divinycell blocks. Depending on how many you would need I probably have some extra I can give you. You could bond those together, put some resin on them, and bond them in. It's worked very well for my build and I'm spanning a 3ft by 3ft deck with two bulk heads and these blocks.


----------



## DuckNut

I tried to draw a picture that used light brown strips to anchor the deck to the hull.

Now get your crayons out...change the color of the light brown strips to whatever color is in your box.

The process is exactly the same no matter what color the strips are.

Since your nida is white, I would suggest changing the light brown strips to white. And since you already have it on hand it will save you an hour.

Post the pics of a completed deck in an hour.


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## racer04

noe the front deck is 5 feet long with a blocked piece glassed into it and also resined together and squished before I did the block on top if you look in past photos you will see. I have a existing bulkhead up front I need to work on since I cut it in the middle and now has no strength idk if I should cut it out completely and glass a piece of nida in or what.

also I feel the same way im just torn between it bc it is so difficult to play with nida in the way that I want.


duck I cant tell between sarcasm or seriousness on the internet but I will put plan into action Friday to give myself a little more posting and idea time I seem to be lacking so im going to be patient. I will post pic of front layout and the back needs some adjusting also before I even think about putting decks on. 

my back deck is 3 ft long by the width of the boat which is 56-57 where it would lay, I still need ideas for a possible stringer acrossed it I was going to glass one either on the bottom of the deck then lay it in or maybe put the piece into the boat glass that in then lay the deck on top of that and glass it from the bottom


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## goon squad

Good God man, first of all please never use nida again!

Second, why can boat builders take a piece of 1/2" foam, glass both sides, span it 6', stand a couple 200lb guys on it with no issues but you have some kind of engineering circle jerk going on?


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## racer04

I want to stick two pieces of nida together and build up the transom so there is more place to put blocks across and wanted to leave the space in between the jack plate for my area to reach down which I wont build it up there.

 

I added more glass since it delaminated when I put the plate on it and crunched it together


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## DuckNut

> I will post pic of front layout and the back needs some adjusting also before I even think about putting decks on.


You posted a pic of the deck in place and it was pretty close. Grind down the bulkhead so that one corner is flat like the rest of it. Put the blocks around it as it has been described. Take a picture and tell us it is done.


Holy Crap


> I added more glass since it delaminated when I put the plate on it and crunched it together


Question: Do you think that when you tightened the bolts on the jackplate and it delaminated that the transom is still solid?

Answer: No, it is broken and applying glass over the top did nothing other than span the gap created when it split, wasting glass and time. The transom is junk.

FeedinSkeeters is right. 11 pages on the same topic, same area of the boat and still not any closer to completion. This is a 4 hour job including the grinding and cutting. Better refill the Ritalin.


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## PG350

Is there anyone who lives near him that knows what they are doing that could go show him in person? He is on here for help.


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## david_kohler

I live about 30-40 min away just south of deland. If I didn't have every free moment scheduled to get my build done by the (I'm) dead line set by my wife set for me I'd go over there. That and my 7.3 liter diesel truck sucks on gas. I would however let you come over to my house and look at my build and I'm sure I could get you on the right track. The only thing I couldn't help you with is determining how much of the transom needs to be stripped and redone, but I'm sure I can explain it with a delaminated surf board I have at my house.


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## david_kohler

Just sent you a pm with my number


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

My offer stands to help as well. I have some divinycell I can give you for the deck supports too. I live in Edgewater but work at Halifax so I'm in daytona every weekday if you want me to bring some so you can use it. If you want to look at my build you are more than welcome to do so, we have a similar design, just different hulls. 

Shoot me a message and we can get together and get a plan going. Everybody starts somewhere and not everyone learns the same way.


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## clintonb

Flyboy, I just want you to know that what you are going thru is helping me as I will be doing the same thing this spring. I have never done this either so hang in there. The next build you do will be a breeze after this. The terminology is what is throwing me for a loop, never been around it but I am reading all of the links that people have posted here and it helps. Heck the only tab I had was a diet drink!!!!   ;D   ;D


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## racer04

haha check out my new thread, hopefully will be less bashing and more praise. 
http://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1383330116/0#5


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