# Trailering your outboard engine



## topnative2 (Feb 22, 2009)

Trailer down if u can.


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

Trailer with the prop/skeg high enough to avoid scraping and with the engine securely braced to the transom so that both move in the same direction at the same time so that the hammer/impact effect of the motor bouncing up and down is reduced to a minimum. Different trailers, different motors and mounting methods require different approaches. My trailer is torsion axle and rides very low, which is nice for launching but leaves little clearance from ground to skeg with the motor down. Consequently I have to trailer with the motor tilted. I use straps and a wooden block under the tilt/trim to keep the motor secure to the transom. Your rig and trailer may be very different, but the concepts are the same. Don't use transom savers that mount from the motor to the trailer. They just transmit shocks from the trailer to the motor and then to the transom. Having the motor solidly braced to the transom is the goal.


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## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

While we are on the subject has anyone switched from the transom saver to the little oem inserts that slide over the trim and tilt piston?


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## AfterHours2 (Aug 2, 2010)

el9surf said:


> While we are on the subject has anyone switched from the transom saver to the little oem inserts that slide over the trim and tilt piston?


I did when I was using the Pathy 17. Couldn’t use a saver because of the trailer setup. It provided enough clearance to trailer but I ended up adding a strap because the motor would still bounce. They do protect the ram cylinder but I think they’re more practical for larger/heavier motors.


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## efi2712micro (Sep 17, 2015)

Vertigo said:


> I use straps and a wooden block under the tilt/trim to keep the motor secure to the transom.


I have a torsion trailer too riding low. I assume the wood block and straps is the same concept as the M-Y wedge with straps. I don;t want to use the engine built -in spring loaded tilt system even with a strap as I was told it is not designed for trailering.


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## SomaliPirate (Feb 5, 2016)

I tow trimmed down, but my trailer sits higher than a Cypress Hill concert. I have no issues with clearance.


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## efi2712micro (Sep 17, 2015)

SomaliPirate said:


> I tow trimmed down, but my trailer sits higher than a Cypress Hill concert. I have no issues with clearance.


Based on the experience from this forum, what is an acceptable clearance between the skeg and ground for a torsion trailer?


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## E-money (Jul 7, 2016)

How would one accomplish keeping the motor straight with a tiller if not using a transom saver?


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## AfterHours2 (Aug 2, 2010)

E-money said:


> How would one accomplish keeping the motor straight with a tiller if not using a transom saver?


I always roped the outboard handle to the platform. When I say outboard handle, I don’t mean the tiller arm though. It’s the part you pick the motor up with. Too many things can happen IMO when you use the tiller arm as a tie off point.


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## efi2712micro (Sep 17, 2015)

AfterHours2 said:


> I always roped the outboard handle to the platform. When I say outboard handle, I don’t mean the tiller arm though. It’s the part you pick the motor up with. Too many things can happen IMO when you use the tiller arm as a tie off point.


Ditto ... tied it to the stand up handle bar on my previous boat, Ankona 18 Tiller.


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## NativeBone (Aug 16, 2017)

AfterHours2 said:


> I always roped the outboard handle to the platform. When I say outboard handle, I don’t mean the tiller arm though. It’s the part you pick the motor up with. Too many things can happen IMO when you use the tiller arm as a tie off point.


interesting, can you share a pic?


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## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

AfterHours2 said:


> I did when I was using the Pathy 17. Couldn’t use a saver because of the trailer setup. It provided enough clearance to trailer but I ended up adding a strap because the motor would still bounce. They do protect the ram cylinder but I think they’re more practical for larger/heavier motors.


You answered my question, thanks. Was wondering if the motor still bounced. I get minimal bounce with the transom saver, will probably stick with this system.


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## Panama1one (Dec 11, 2014)

This is how I trailer mine. Modified a transom saver and added a sea sucker to end. Works great


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

I put a piece of 1 1/2” wooden dowel between the motor and the motor mounts and tilt the motor down until it stops. The guy I got the boat from has done this since the boat was new in 2001 so it must be fine.


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## ranno (Apr 7, 2012)

Panama1one said:


> View attachment 20832
> This is how I trailer mine. Modified a transom saver and added a sea sucker to end. Works great


Panama1, You are brilliant ! (I see what you did with your transducer as well). This addresses all the negatives of trailer vibration. Could you share with us how you modified the seasucker to accommdate the transom saver ? Thanks for thinking out side the box, well done.


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## SomaliPirate (Feb 5, 2016)

efi2712micro said:


> Based on the experience from this forum, what is an acceptable clearance between the skeg and ground for a torsion trailer?


I honestly couldn't tell you. I'm on a traditional leaf spring trailer and when you combine that with the raised transom of the 17T, my skeg is at least 10" off the ground. Plus I run Ozello and Yankeetown a lot so my skeg takes some punishment anyway.


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## Zika (Aug 6, 2015)

I've been using the smaller m-y wedge for awhile and it cushions to reduce bouncing while also keeping the engine lowered for less force on the transom. It slides over the power tilt ram. About $40 on-line.


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## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

Zika said:


> I've been using the smaller m-y wedge for awhile and it cushions to reduce bouncing while also keeping the engine lowered for less force on the transom. It slides over the power tilt ram. About $40 on-line.
> 
> View attachment 20841


How does it keep the motor from bouncing up?


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

I made a transom saver with some scrap aluminum I had at the shop -- the biggest issue I see with transom savers is how they go to the motor. I flared the edges and used some thick (5/8"?) neoprene foam that I plan on doubling up soon in order to protect the lower unit of the motor.

The only load added to the transom by the saver is the load from the trailer to the motor. I think that the majority of this load is negated since the trailer transfers that same movement to the transom through the hull. There will be some minor loading (high frequency, low displacement) due to differences in the vibration through the saver vs. the hull, but I would much prefer those stresses rather than those caused by the transom being the only thing restraining the movement of the motor.


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## Zika (Aug 6, 2015)

Hard rubber. Acts like a shock absorber.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

I fished today and took a photo of how I trailer mine. It does nothing for the transom but it keeps the ram from taking the brunt of hitting a pothole etc.


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## efi2712micro (Sep 17, 2015)

I would think it does help with putting less pressure on the transom. Key take away I got from that thread is that securing movement of the engine as close as possible to the transom and minimizing bumping will do all kind of good to the transom. Heading towards a similar option ....


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## Shadowcast16 (Mar 5, 2017)

Outboards are like Tities! Let em flop!


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## SomaliPirate (Feb 5, 2016)

Shadowcast16 said:


> Outboards are like Tities! Let em flop!


Are those two stroke or four stroke?


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## ifsteve (Jul 1, 2010)

I have been using the my wedge things for several years now on both boats. I have both the one that slides over the piston and two you put on the steering bar, one on each side. Setup keeps the motor where it should be and doesn't let it slide to one side or the other. 

Just remember when you first get them to take the ones of the steering bar....or you'll launch and wonder what the heck has gone wrong with your steering. First hand experience.....lol


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## CedarCreek (Nov 23, 2012)

One other benefit of a transom saver going from the lower unit to the cross beam of the trailer (as long as you have the clearance) is in the event you get rear ended. Happened to me a year ago and all of the impact as far as I can tell went to the transom saver and the aluminum beam. No damage to the prop or transom. The saver bent and the cross beam bent and had to be replaced. Pretty easy fix for what could have been a big mess.


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## Panama1one (Dec 11, 2014)

ranno said:


> Panama1, You are brilliant ! (I see what you did with your transducer as well). This addresses all the negatives of trailer vibration. Could you share with us how you modified the seasucker to accommdate the transom saver ? Thanks for thinking out side the box, well done.


I had to cut the transom saver to make it a little shorter to fit my application. Drill a new hole for bracket that attaches to sea sucker. Only extra hardware was the screw that attaches the sea sucker to saver. I will take a few pictures today and post them when I get a chance. Been using this setup forever on all the boats I’ve owned with no issues.


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## slewis (Sep 8, 2015)

https://motormateusa.com/

Thats what I've been using on my VF115.


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