# 1970 super hawaiin 15' SHX



## lorimc1 (Dec 26, 2010)

So I picked up a bare hull, already stripped down, except for the transom and a front box. the clean title was worth the $25 I paid for it. The hull was a lovely mold and tannic color so the first step was to bleach and acid wash the hull. It made it look alot nicer but with all the stress cracks its gonna need to be stripped down and redone. But that will come later.
















The air saw made short work of removing the front deck peice but the hammer and chisel were needed to remove the transom wood. a flapper style sanding disc made short work of the excess glass. glad I had a face mask.
This is gonna be a build on a budget, so I know that im using a polyester/viynalester blend resin build. I know all about the benefits of epoxy but just cant afford it right now.

Ive spent the last few days pattern cutting and cutting the plywood for the deck, subfloor, transom, bulkheads and some gunnel supports. I also cut out the anchor hatch and main storage hatch.


























































The hatches have a bottom support ring and sit flush for when Im feather chucking. Im planing on using these hinges for it. There SS cabinet door hinges. has anyone tried this before?










The boat looks like it had a cap at some point but ive never seen or heard of this manufacturer. Does anyone have any info on this hull? I've been unable to find anything on my Google searches.

Thats all for now, will update as I progress.
I have a different design for the undergunnel rod racks that i'll post when I finish them. Hint; you dont need to undo the bungee cord to put rods in or out.

CMD


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## swaddict (Dec 19, 2009)

the first few pics made me think I started hitting the bottle sooner than normal


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## anytide (Jul 30, 2009)

> the first few pics made me think I started hitting the bottle sooner than normal


-i had to put my specticals on too ,, and it is time to hit the bottle ;D.

----catman thats looking great so far ,keep up the good work.
good luck -anytide


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## lorimc1 (Dec 26, 2010)

I'd rather have a bottle in front of me, than a frontal lobotomy. 

yeah on the first few my point and shoot would focus then when i hit the button it would refocus and come out blurry. havent quite figured out what i did different on the last set but they do seem to look alot better.

CMD


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## jrod0785 (Aug 26, 2009)

Welcome to the forum and keep the build pics coming! Looking awesome so far! I dont know about the hatches though. Seahorse did a build on here where he recessed the the hinges on the top of the deck and it came out pretty slick and it looked like nothing would get hung up if you are slinging a fly. Just a thought. Once again, great job!


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

I tried to use those hinges first on my last build. It didn't work out well and they aren't very durable. I'd recess some hinges from the top like mentioned.


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## jrod0785 (Aug 26, 2009)

*Re: 1970 super hwaiin 15' SHX*

Here is a pic of how he did his hinges.


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## oysterbreath (Jan 13, 2009)

May we'll need a bottle to see those pics!
Catmandew...this drinks on you! ;-)
Looking real good so far. How much weight do you think you've added so far? Good luck with the -ester resin. It's not ideal with wood but you'll be on the water and the critics will be at home, infront of a computer...envious! Or maybe that'll just be me! lol


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## lorimc1 (Dec 26, 2010)

FC, where the ones you tried to use the larger size SS ones or the common nickel ones. Im asking because my parents have custom solid oak cabinets in there kitchen and the pantry doors are almost 2x the size of my hatch. was there a particular piece that didnt hold up or maybe just the ones you used. (serious question, Not trying to be a smart azz)

OB, down here on the southern IRL draft isnt as much of an issue, but Im guessing its gonna be a little heavier than it has to be as im using 3/4" which is overkill but i'll be happy with less than a foot of draft fully loaded which shouldnt be even close to an issue. And the good news, No deck flex. 

CMD


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## lorimc1 (Dec 26, 2010)

PC, I can easily recess the hinges with my router for top mounts. Was just hoping the others would work to keep people guessing. 

I also didnt mention that all the seams are half lapped 3/4" so the gunnel supports and bulkheads all are positioned at the seams allowing me to screw them together as well as glassing them. should make for a stronger constuction.
The stringers are also cut to be supports for the subfloor and Ive supported the boat to remove the hook for better top end. by only doing the subfloor to the front bulkhead the storage area is huge even with the second bulkhead for the anchor storage area. was originally planning for a pull start tiller outboard. Im rethinking that an electric start and lighting might be nice. especially for night snooking, shrimping and camping on the islands. I am still gonna build it simple but am going to add some wire chases so I can trick it out later.

I also want to incorporate a teak spray rail and would like for everyone to post some pics of spray rails to give me some design ideas.

Thanks 
CMD


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## anytide (Jul 30, 2009)

whats the HIN# of that sled .. -anytide


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## lorimc1 (Dec 26, 2010)

AT, the number is old style so it doesn't give much info

Its SHX**386

The astericks are for anominimity sinch this is the web
a google search said that Super Hawaii Manufacturing
vin code is SHX but the title also list the make as SHX and the body (?) as VS with a length of 15'

someone had redone the transom and since it was a bare hull there isnt any numbers on the actual hull. there is some fiberglass overlap from previous repairs were you would normally find it on the hull. I havent started on the exterior yet so it may appear when i fair out the transom.

Lets see some spray rails please.

CMD


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## FSUfisher (Jul 16, 2007)

Where do you plan on incorporating your spray rails? You have some real nice classic lines towards the bow and I'd be careful to not take away from that. Just IMO. Great build BTW, and looks like you got a heck of a steal on that for $25.

One more thing, the hinges you are inquiring about are made to be mounted in the vertical position supporting a minimal amount of weight with only vertical shear as the main force against it (think of just the weight of a cabinet door being the main force to bring about the destruction of the hinge). On a boat they'd be situated horizontal I assume, and will be forced to support higher forces and at different angles about the hinge's axis that it was not meant to support. Finally, there are different grades of SS, and those hinges might not be as durable/ salt resistant as hardware made specifically for boats. The hinges pictured above, recessed, would look great and would be my first choice.

Cheers!


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## lorimc1 (Dec 26, 2010)

FSU, i was thinking of trying to follow the chine starting from about a foot back and running about 3' long. was hoping for some pics of what other have done. should it taper at the ends?, how wide?should it be longer to be effective/functional? still tossing the design around.

I understand your point on the hinges, the ones i found are 304 SS not the optimum 316 investment cast but i figure if they start to rust aleast the drips will not be seen. If i go with top mounts, i will get the gemlux ones that have the studs on them and through bolt with no screw heads, with double hinges so the hatch can lay open completely flat. I will also recess them to be completely flush.

Lets see some sprayrail pics, I want to finish them before I start glassing.

CMD


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

> FC, where the ones you tried to use the larger size SS ones or the common nickel ones. Im asking because my parents have custom solid oak cabinets in there kitchen and the pantry doors are almost 2x the size of my hatch. was there a particular piece that didnt hold up or maybe just the ones you used.


Yes mine were stainless and bought from a marine supplier for way to much money . Main problem is they don't open 1800 degrees, and you will need them to open all the way often on a boat, and they have adjustments on them. Adjustments mean movement when they are used often, after a just a little while they are out of adjustment and start to chip your paint. Also just from the wind blowing against them them in the open position the adjustment tabs started to bend as well as the main arm, after that I couldn't even close them all the way. They are meant for hanging doors with no load, not for horizontal ones.

For durability and less of a headache I'd recess them. Or you can do like me and just buy commercial hatches next time .


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## lorimc1 (Dec 26, 2010)

FC, I see what your saying. I think i will take your advise and go with the flush mount on top. Thanks. I hate the commerical hatches. being top mounted, in the florida sun after about a year you can step through them. No thanks.

Still hoping for some spray rail pics. Maybe when i get back in from offshore today. Somebody will post some.

CMD


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

> I hate the commerical hatches. being top mounted, in the florida sun after about a year you can step through them. No thanks.


It depends on which ones you buy, I've seen some last for more then a decade out in the sun with no issues. Plus I never store my boats outside so UV resistance isn't a huge issue. My main reason for buying ready made hatches this go around is I want some dry storage. My old hatches would let water dump in, but I knew that would happen so I planned my drainage accordingly.


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

I've never had a hatch that didn't leak, sooner or later.
They either distort due to load, temperature changes
or the seals pinch or get dirt in the seam and leak.
For that reason, I came to the conclusion that deck mounted
hatches were to be avoided whenever possible.
I mount them vertically through bulkhead instead.
That way the water drains past the hatch, not through it.


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## 0and2jr (May 30, 2010)

Hey, what routing bit did you use firecat?, the one I tried just burns the glass..


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## cutrunner (Jun 8, 2010)

Sweet hull! I think my friend has the same one but i cant make out the bow with the fuzzy shots


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

I never had any issues with burning glass, to put a nice edge on alot of things I used a 3/8" or 1/2" 1/4 round bit, and for recessing stuff I just used a straight bit with a plunge base and guide. i cut a groove for a seal in my cooler top a few days ago, got a little squirrly but what can you do, with a straight 3/8' bit.
Maybe it's the speed of the router? maybe polyester burns and epoxy doesn't? don't know :-?


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## KyleRosenblatt (Dec 30, 2010)




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## anytide (Jul 30, 2009)

thats preeeeety tell us more.......
-anytide


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## jimbarn1961 (Aug 2, 2009)

CaptKyleR, 

Start a thread and start bragging. 
That is Schweet!! How about some pics and commentary??? Quit teasing


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## KyleRosenblatt (Dec 30, 2010)

I don't wanna hijack your thread but it looks alot like my boat. I still have no idea what mine was or is. Awesome build though, major props.


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## lorimc1 (Dec 26, 2010)

Kyle, that hull looks sweet. Its a little different from mine tho. Mine doesnt have three strakes down the bottom just a center keel and the front is a little different. Hard to tell from my fuzzy pics. you should start a build thread on it. I know that everyone would like to see what its taken to get that far along. Have you started on the inside yet or figured out what you want to do?

Still need pics of Spray Rails if anyone got any.

CMD


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## lorimc1 (Dec 26, 2010)

0and2, burning is a sign of a dull bit. F/g will dull a bit alot faster than straight wood can. there is even a difference between soft and hardwoods in how fast they will dull.
If you glass is thick you could start with a sharp bit and be burning your way through at the end. 

CMD


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## lorimc1 (Dec 26, 2010)

I have been fortunate to be able to get some fishing in the last couple days, so not much progress to report. the honey do list was a little long with christmas take down and put aways, but i did manage to get a little time today to put some work in on the boat. I cut and routed the under gunnel rodrack/gunnel supports. the camera battery was empty, so its on the charger. I will post some pics when it recharges.

They are a design that some may not have seen before. they have a bungee cord that is fixed with something akin to a hook. you just use the rod to push in the bungee past the hook and let the hook catch the rod. I built a set for my buddies 17BC and told his son to load up our rods. He spent 10 minutes carefully feeding the rods behind the bungee cord because as he said "there no damn way to untie the bungee" I said " stephan, I'm gonna show you this once and your gonna feel real dumb but you will appreciate it in the long run." now he can load the boat in a couple minutes. LOL

CMD


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## lorimc1 (Dec 26, 2010)

heres the pic, no bungee yet but you can get the idea.
the bottom ones are forward and the smaller ones go aft.
the gunnel gets bigger were the boat starts to flare out from the transom width. it makes the cockpit look more uniform with the consistent width of the cutout.IMHO

I would still like to see some sprayrail pics, PLEASE, i need the help 

CMD


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

What type of rails are you planning on?  :-?

Glass over foam? Laminated wood? Vinyl extrusions?
Nothing difficult about installing any of them,
but fabrication is time consuming and factory extrusions
sure aren't cheap unless you can find them at a marine salvage yard.

from the classics section...


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

Hmm those rod holders look familiar :-?. Now where have I seen them before......? oh yeah!


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## lorimc1 (Dec 26, 2010)

Thanks Brett, I,m going to fab them myself from teak, the hull has a pretty good chine that drops low as it moves aft. I thought i could get away with a much shorter rail as it will be angled downward as it moves aft. the ones you've pictured sure seem pretty parrallel to the water line and are much longer than i was thinking of. Thanks for posting them. I may be just overthinking the design of them. I can picture them from a functional standpoint, I just havent nailed down the styling. Im also thinking of making a teak toerail and teak coping for the cockpit. Ive already got some flag blue for the hull and am planing a off shade of white for the deck. I guess ive just been seeing to many Hinckleys lately  If I go for a red and gold pinstrip, somebody shoot me! ;D

CMD


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## lorimc1 (Dec 26, 2010)

FC, if you look there are some differences. yours look alot like the broken ones I took off my buddies BC. the top of yours is very thin and will not add much strength to the gunnel. my boats gunnels will need structural support as did my friends boat. also the bungee is fixed and will hold the rod in the loop of the "P" so the rods dont bounce around.
I will take some pics of them when i rig them to show what i mean.

CMD


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

CMD, those were from when I built my last boat, they had a bungee strap just like you are talking about, and when my gunnels (or gunwhales) were completed they were more then strong enough to support me, at 235lbs and my fishing buddy, at 270lbs. However we quickly learned that walk around gunnel caps on a narrow beam boat are pretty pointless.


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## lorimc1 (Dec 26, 2010)

Well, I finally got everything cut that I can think of, minus a few details to accomadate hardware that will be done later.
went down and got my first batch of supplies, and start to get to work. 

I've gotten the transom setup and think it came out pretty good.








When it set up I sanded down the top to see my results. It came out as good as you can get, with no gaps whatsoever.








I then went on to fill and radius the lower gaps to prep for more fiberglass.








once all the sanding was complete to my satisfaction, (I hate inside radius's when sanding. I perfer flat sections were I can use my powertools) I tabbed the transom into the hull.









Thats all for now, next comes a full sheet of 1808 and on to the stringers. Its a little slow going being a one man show. I spend a little too much time on small details but have decided I'm not gonna half-a** anything. Its nice to have some friends with boats so I dont feel pressure to just get her on the water. 

Thanks for the pics of the sprayrails. A couple question; some of the pics showed almost full length spray rails and also as they went aft they were parrallel to the water with what I'm assuming is a downward tilt. a couple also had two different one with the forward ones angling downward (this is what i had in mind) and a second one down low just above an parrallel to the waterline. What are the advantages to each?

CMD


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

Besides deflecting spray, they add planing/lift surfaces to the hull.
Also on round chine hulls, aft rails dig in and act as skegs
when spinning up and out of a pothole to get on plane.
Gives you a little better control with the engine hard over.


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## lorimc1 (Dec 26, 2010)

Well I spent some time on the skiff today. I got the stringers bonded to the hull and put material down to radius the joints in anticipation of laying glass tomorrow. 









If anyone needs to use some 5200 in an area that isnt gonna be seen. I found 10oz tubes of polyurethane made by Loctite at home depot. It drys to a tan color, but is only $5 a tube instead of getting bent over by 3M pricing.

Since my original pic were so blurry, Im adding a side shot that shows off the lines of the hull. 








once the stringers are glassed in Im anticipating alot faster progress as everything is already cut. I keep looking at this pic to keep the excitement level up. 








I just cant get enough boat porn 
So everyone update their build threads with lot-o-pics

CMD


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

I like the layout, simple...effective. [smiley=thumbsup3.gif]


Whaddaya mean update?
I never stop adding to my build albums...


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## lorimc1 (Dec 26, 2010)

Thanks Brett, only now everytime I look at it, I keep on thinking of ways to complicate it. I'm thinking of a reardeck livewell which means moving the tank to the forward compartment which is were my battery was going to go. I dont want fuel and battery in the same enclosed area. also if i decide I want a trolling motor what then.? It was all so simple till?

CMD


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## pgmelton (Apr 19, 2011)

Hello, this is my first post on this forum. Thanks! 

I have a 14ft skiff that I will rebuilding and I am getting tons of ideas from this forum and your posts. My first question is how did you cut out those hatch covers in the plywood? Those almost look like they were done with a CNC mill. Outstanding cuts, please share your secret. 

Also, what are your plans for a livewell???

Thanks,

Peter


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## Catmandew (Feb 18, 2016)

found my old thread.

a long awaited update, lol.


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## Whiskey Angler (Mar 20, 2015)

Dan McCarthy said:


> found my old thread.
> 
> a long awaited update, lol.


Wow! She got the nip, tuck, lift, and then some. Looks great, more pics please.


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## Catmandew (Feb 18, 2016)

The Taco rub rail was easy to install and the new answer to nav lights/flush deck/no holes in hull conundrum.


40 yami 4s tiller, jackplate and tabs


i think the spray rails came out pretty good, they function perfectly. deflecting what surely would have been a drowning. The anchor light is telescoping carbon fiber to clear the garage door. Its attached to the jackplate, so there isn't any clearance proplems with steering.


I had to substitute Mahogany for the original plan of teak. So everything is Virgin Honduran Mahogany.
I got an absolute steal on it from CL.


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## bjtripp83 (Aug 10, 2015)

gorgeous. especially like the live well hatch


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Very nice work! Did you use any floatation foam under the sole? What brand of paint did you end up going with, Awlgrip?


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## Catmandew (Feb 18, 2016)

Snow white Awl Craft 2000, doing foam on the outside of the stringers. Sole only goes to front bulkhead, huge storage in front compartments.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Have you gotten it wet? Any idea of what it drafts?


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## Catmandew (Feb 18, 2016)

Maiden voyage was for a new boating tv show. No pressure. Ran great, was a blast to drive. It was the most fun I've had in a boat in a long time. Its a little stern heavy, but should balance out perfect when the trolling motor and extra battery get mounted. Shoots on a plane with the forty and slight tabs. Draft is under a foot, as is but should be around 8-10 once i get it balanced out and depending on the load. Plenty shallow for my area of the IRL and is shallower than my small boat was when i lived in key largo


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Ha! Very cool! If that show is going to air in the central florida area (bright house), please let me know date/time/channel. I would be very interested to check the show out!


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## Catmandew (Feb 18, 2016)

Just reread the original thread and saw alot that has changed, since the early inception.
the hatches are no longer plywood. I upgraded a little.


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## jboriol (Jan 2, 2010)

Great looking skiff, look forward to seeing it on the TV show!


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## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

Wow, great job. That think looks sweet!


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## jasonhinkel (Sep 30, 2015)

any updates? looks good!


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## taco29403 (Jun 16, 2015)

I'm assuming this is the same boat. Very cool build.


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## Catmandew (Feb 18, 2016)

taco29403 said:


> I'm assuming this is the same boat. Very cool build.


Yeah, thats me. I wasnt sure i could post it with their competing website.
I hear their looking for more builds to feature. Could be an opportunity for someone.

CMD


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Wow a tv star right here on our blog

Very cool boat I know you'll get the stance right


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## Catmandew (Feb 18, 2016)

Yep, with a face for radio and a voice for print ads, I can't wait for my imdb rating. lol 


CMD


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