# 2001 Hell's Bay Restore - 2017



## FMH

Bluwave said:


> Well gentlemen... the time has finally come to get my skiff restored. She's a 2001 Hell's Bay Waterman 16' Mosquito Lagoon Edition with a 2-stroke 40hp Merc on the back. I brought the boat to Glasser Boat Works this past weekend and am more than excited about getting this project underway. I knew going into the process about 99% of the things I wanted to do, but I still can't decide on a color. I'll be honest, I feel like a woman picking curtains but this is a tough decision. The non skid pattern on these boats is a little funky so I want to go with one solid color on the topside. The hull is matterhorn white, so I'm thinking about going with either Ice Blue/Blue Tone White or matterhorn white. Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated. I will be selling this boat at some point so I do have re-sale in mind.
> 
> The two big things I have planned for the skiff are adding side decks and a middle seat between the stern lockers.


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## FMH

I have had Jonathan work on my skiffs and he is a master craftsman. I'm sure you'll be satisfied with his work as he has done several of these skiffs. As far as color goes , I too have the white hull and did an ice blue cap and have been very happy with it. I think the ice blue is easy on the eyes and gets lots of compliments.


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## Bluwave

FMH said:


> I have had Jonathan work on my skiffs and he is a master craftsman. I'm sure you'll be satisfied with his work as he has done several of these skiffs. As far as color goes , I too have the white hull and did an ice blue cap and have been very happy with it. I think the ice blue is easy on the eyes and gets lots of compliments.


do you have any pictures of your skiff on the forum?


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## TGlidden

For resale, I wouldn't add the cover boards/ side decks. That's a rare and highly sought after skiff, especially for people that need ultra shallow water proformance. I think it might hurt you when it comes time to sell. Also, it's much easier to access the rods without them. I considered adding cover boards to my mosquito lagoon when I first got it, I'm glad I didn't. 
As far as deck color ice blue is a good compromise between glare reduction and staying cool if you go barefoot, looks good too.


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## Capt. Eli Whidden

Cool boat! 

Ice blue looks great. So does guide green. 

How about some new Livorsi LED nav lights. Maybe a new bow eye. Tough to tell from the pics. How about the rear tower.


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## Backwater

Bluwave said:


>


Dude, that boat is super sweet!


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## devrep

I have the same year model as you, no liner, no walkable gunnels except mine is a tiller tunnel hull and is fighting lady yellow. Mine has the deck added on the stern and I really like that. I would not add the walkable gunnels, plenty of those around.


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## Bluwave

TGlidden said:


> For resale, I wouldn't add the cover boards/ side decks. That's a rare and highly sought after skiff, especially for people that need ultra shallow water proformance. I think it might hurt you when it comes time to sell. Also, it's much easier to access the rods without them. I considered adding cover boards to my mosquito lagoon when I first got it, I'm glad I didn't.
> As far as deck color ice blue is a good compromise between glare reduction and staying cool if you go barefoot, looks good too.


Oh boy, you guys are going to make me start questioning myself. I was on the fence at first about adding side decks/walkable gunnels, but the side console on this boat didn't come from Hell's Bay and was "Jerry Rigged" to say the least. In order to keep this thing a side console I really think it needs the walkable gunnels.


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## Snookdaddy

I'm kind of partial to guide green myself, but I really dig a white hull with ice blue topsides. Glasser can handle the side decks, but may need to make new rod holders with a knee brace at the top to support the walk around.. I have a the center section on my Waterman 18 and Glasser can pop a mold off it as long as he can do it without marring the finish.

That's a sweet skiff you have there and it will be in good hands with Jonathan.


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## sjrobin

I would not do anything to the skiff except restore the gel coat(ice blue), remove the add on side console, and convert back to the original tiller configuration. That skiff was made for a tiller engine and is better value rigged like the original.


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## devrep

There is a thread where Glasser added walkable gunnels to a Whipray and he had to make an entire new cap.


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## el9surf

Regarding color scheme I have seen a few boats with a white hull and a very toned down very light shade of sea foam green on the deck and cockpit. That combo looks really good and it would be different. 

I would add the livorsi led lights, replace the anchor light with the little round atwood led light. Add small tabs on the tower for the anchor light and push pole caddy if you use one. 

A new rub rail will really make the boat look clean after all of the awlgrip work.

Another nice touch is to get the platform inserts awlgripped to match the deck. 

Get the inside of the storage compartments awlgripped.

Replace any of the black through hulls with stainless.

Replace any of the hatch pulls with stainless prior to awlgrip. 

One thing I wish I did on my last restore was to take off all the hinges on the hatches and replace with piano hinges.


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## CaptainRob

I have to agree with the rest and say do not add the gunnels. That boat was designed for simplicity....keep it that way. Restore the gelcoat, replace hardware, update gauges, etc. Leave the layout as originally designed. Your future buyer will thank you.


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## RobA

I'm going to be the contrarian and suggest that you have Glasser put in a center console with a tower and second station, and maybe a 36 volt 112 lb thrust I-pilot up front. But leave the gunnels off.


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## Bluwave

sjrobin said:


> I would not do anything to the skiff except restore the gel coat(ice blue), remove the add on side console, and convert back to the original tiller configuration. That skiff was made for a tiller engine and is better value rigged like the original.


I truly appreciate and welcome the advice, but I've sorta committed to adding these side decks. It wasn't an easy decision, but these barebone waterman/whiprays were originally designed to have bolt-on side decks from HB. A majority of the waterman/whiprays from 1998 to 2003 had a cap, floor and decks so this skiff will still be extremely light.

I know everyone won't agree with my decision, but this layout better suits my style of fishing. I love these skiffs and their history so hopefully you guys will like the end result.

Here's a my current list:

- New PC Aluminum Fuel Tank
- New non skid (color not yet determined)
- New center hatch/seat
- Rework side console
- New side decks
- Complete rewire
- Livorsi led lights
- New Pumps
- Remove bottom paint
- Sand/buff hull
- Repair holes/dings

I'm considering:
- Add Cushions
- hydraulic steering
- new rub rail


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## Sandalous

Not trying to take business away from Glasser, but I think your boat looks awesome as-is. It seems like most HB's that end up getting restored start as beat to shit / neglected / old guide boats that were picked up for a good price by a new owner. Yours appears to be very far from that.

I would take a hard look at what you think the current market value of your boat is vs. how much extra value would be added with a restore, then compare to what a restored boat actually sells for. I have seen a lot of ultra-customized restored old restored HB's sit on this site for months with a lofty price tag, whereas a boat like yours normally sells in a day or two.

Obviously things like a new fuel tank may be necessary, but I would try to keep this boat as original as possible. Also, I may be wrong but I believe the rear bench can be completed with a removable lid-style piece that fits between the two seats but remains clear underneath.


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## Bluwave

I appreciate the compliments she's an amazing little skiff. You're right, the middle seat will simply be a hatch that fits between the lockers.


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## flatfish

So no more dragging it across oyster beds?


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## Bluwave

flatfish said:


> So no more dragging it across oyster beds?


If you ain't draggin' you ain't fishing. Don't worry she's still gonna get skinny.


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## devrep

This is the deck panel that was installed by Hells Bay on mine by the previous owner. It is not a hatch, just a deck panel held on by 4 bolts.


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## bw510

I have the add on gunwales on my whipray and I never walk on them
the only benefit is maybe to protect them from being stepped on 

I would redo the deck and get rid of the wheel and go tiller 

I also thought I'd want the center cover thing between the two hatches but now that I've had my boat i like the space between them 

Keep it simple


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## el9surf

If I'm not mistaken one of the yeti sizes fits perfectly flush in between those two rear lockers.


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## FMH

Bluwave said:


> do you have any pictures of your skiff on the forum?


Yes-- 2006 Waterman. Look under my posts.


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## Blue Zone

Bluwave said:


> Well gentlemen... the time has finally come to get my skiff restored. She's a 2001 Hell's Bay Waterman 16' Mosquito Lagoon Edition with a 2-stroke 40hp Merc on the back. I brought the boat to Glasser Boat Works this past weekend and am more than excited about getting this project underway. I knew going into the process about 99% of the things I wanted to do, but I still can't decide on a color. I'll be honest, I feel like a woman picking curtains but this is a tough decision. The non skid pattern on these boats is a little funky so I want to go with one solid color on the topside. The hull is matterhorn white, so I'm thinking about going with either Ice Blue/Blue Tone White or matterhorn white. Any thoughts or advice would be greatly appreciated. I will be selling this boat at some point so I do have re-sale in mind.
> 
> The two big things I have planned for the skiff are adding side decks and a middle seat between the stern lockers.


Personally, I think the Livorsi lights would detract from the lines of the boat. You might consider a pop-up bow light.
Good you're keeping the side console, but if you are thinking about hydraulic steering, the weight may be too much for the console without support.
Maybe find a lower profile engine throttle/shift; that thing is massive.
A custom switch panel would be nice. If you are looking for instruments, Lauderdale Speedometer has a good array.
If you fill in the center aft compartment, a flush-mount box which holds 2 or 3 3700 boxes would be a good place to keep phones, a couple of tools and whatever for easy access. I got one from Fin-Addict Marine before I found out Anytide on here has them. For through-hulls etc. Baron USA in Miami is a good source.
Not sure about that poling platform; any thoughts about changing it out?


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## islandguides

Super sweet platform, any additions will make it killer.


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## Snookdaddy

el9surf said:


> If I'm not mistaken one of the yeti sizes fits perfectly flush in between those two rear lockers.


a Yeti 35qt. will fit in there like a glove.. That's what I used on my 2006 Gordon Waterman 16. Multi-function at it's best...


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## TidalFly

Bluwave, I've got to throw in my two cents here because I know that dock, and I know that house, and I've seen your boat staked out there just like in this picture. That said, I know the general region you're fishing this boat in. That boat deserves to be a tiller, as far as the walkable gunnels go I could go either way. I think the walkable gunnels give the boat a little more clean finished look but I also like the originality of the no gunnel setup. That boat in a tiller is taylor made for running the tight switchback creeks around here. If it were me, I would convert back to tiller, do the non skid work you're talking about, and throw in that removable bench insert for the back bench. That boat was made for tight creeks, flood tides, and belly crawlers...not hydraulic steering.


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## Barbs_deep

TidalFly said:


> Bluwave, I've got to throw in my two cents here because I know that dock, and I know that house, and I've seen your boat staked out there just like in this picture. That said, I know the general region you're fishing this boat in. That boat deserves to be a tiller, as far as the walkable gunnels go I could go either way. I think the walkable gunnels give the boat a little more clean finished look but I also like the originality of the no gunnel setup. That boat in a tiller is taylor made for running the tight switchback creeks around here. If it were me, I would convert back to tiller, do the non skid work you're talking about, and throw in that removable bench insert for the back bench. That boat was made for tight creeks, flood tides, and belly crawlers...not hydraulic steering.


Bingo.


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## Whiskey Angler

TidalFly said:


> Bluwave, I've got to throw in my two cents here because I know that dock, and I know that house, and I've seen your boat staked out there just like in this picture. That said, I know the general region you're fishing this boat in. That boat deserves to be a tiller, as far as the walkable gunnels go I could go either way. I think the walkable gunnels give the boat a little more clean finished look but I also like the originality of the no gunnel setup. That boat in a tiller is taylor made for running the tight switchback creeks around here. If it were me, I would convert back to tiller, do the non skid work you're talking about, and throw in that removable bench insert for the back bench. That boat was made for tight creeks, flood tides, and belly crawlers...not hydraulic steering.



Somebody's been watching you fish your honey-hole, Bluwave!


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## Bluwave

TidalFly said:


> Bluwave, I've got to throw in my two cents here because I know that dock, and I know that house, and I've seen your boat staked out there just like in this picture. That said, I know the general region you're fishing this boat in. That boat deserves to be a tiller, as far as the walkable gunnels go I could go either way. I think the walkable gunnels give the boat a little more clean finished look but I also like the originality of the no gunnel setup. That boat in a tiller is taylor made for running the tight switchback creeks around here. If it were me, I would convert back to tiller, do the non skid work you're talking about, and throw in that removable bench insert for the back bench. That boat was made for tight creeks, flood tides, and belly crawlers...not hydraulic steering.


I primarily fish the Bulls Bay area and those 15-18 mile runs would be tiring with a tiller. Flip Pallot put a center console in his new Whip Classic 16'... it's all just a matter of preference.


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## TidalFly

you're absolutely right he did, just my thoughts from fishing the same waters, see you in bulls


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## MariettaMike

you should have Jonathan run a hose from your engine water pump tattle tale to a statue like this that you can set on your poling platform while you're running just to make devrep jealous...


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## MSG

Have you considered toJust get the deck re done if at's already at the shop - Sell it and get a boat like you want - it's too cool of a boat to do all that stuff to it - let someone else have it in all of it's original glory and buy something that is better suited to what you want. Maybe a pro 17.8 would be better?


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## tomahawk

MSG said:


> Have you considered toJust get the deck re done if at's already at the shop - Sell it and get a boat like you want - it's too cool of a boat to do all that stuff to it - let someone else have it in all of it's original glory and buy something that is better suited to what you want. Maybe a pro 17.8 would be better?


I agree. Why even make the post if you had your mind made up about everything?


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## Bluwave

tomahawk said:


> I agree. Why even make the post if you had your mind made up about everything?


If you read my first post you'll see that I created this thread to get advice on non skid color.


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## Bluwave

MSG said:


> Have you considered toJust get the deck re done if at's already at the shop - Sell it and get a boat like you want - it's too cool of a boat to do all that stuff to it - let someone else have it in all of it's original glory and buy something that is better suited to what you want. Maybe a pro 17.8 would be better?


When you buy a boat you have the luxury to make it fit your needs. I'm not the first person to add walkable gunnels to these boats and I won't be the last. I know everyone won't agree with me, but this is the layout I prefer.


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## tomahawk

Bluwave said:


> If you read my first post you'll see that I created this thread to get advice on non skid color.


Ahhhh.....OK, I guess I misunderstood. Glasser will make it a showstopper regardless of which way you decide to go with it. Looking forward to seeing it come together.


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## devrep

MariettaMike said:


> you should have Jonathan run a hose from your engine water pump tattle tale to a statue like this that you can set on your poling platform while you're running just to make devrep jealous...


huh?


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## devrep

devrep said:


> huh?


oh I get it. my piss on 4 strokes avatar.


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## Chasintail22

Just my two cents but have you been on one that had the gunwales added? Getting rods in and out on that specific setup will not be easy. I have the open gunwales on my 2001 Waterman and the way the rod racks are setup you'd definitely end up needing to rebuild the racks if you added the gunwales. Also, with these boats being no liner, and the gunwales just being glassed into the front and rear decks, you're basically relying on the rod racks to support the weight of you standing on them. On top of that, as you know, the boat isn't exactly the most stable so I'm not really sure you'll ever be actually walking around the edges? I know I sure wouldn't on mine lol. 

For the rear hatch, the center console lid from a current HB Waterman fits that open space like a glove, just a heads up. 

Not sure how the back of your cockpit area is at the stern, but when we redid mine I had about an inch deep bilge sump made so that water could fall down into it rather than drift back and forth throughout my cockpit. Replaced stern drain plug with a stainless screw in like on current HBs. 

Also, the front of my cockpit floor has the cooler shelf built in which is amazing and makes getting up on the front deck much easier, plus gives flat area to keep my cooler. 

In my personal opinion, the ONE thing I dislike about my skiff is the poling tower design. Love the look, hate the fact that you have to put the push pole "inside" of it, as I'm sure you already know. I would redesign the tower to mount differently and allow the push pole to be outside of it. 

I had my portside stern box divided into 2 sections which is great because I can keep wet towels, wading booties, etc in one and dry stuff in the other. Drained the back section into cockpit, so I can even put ice in there and use as cooler or fish box if needed. 

Hope this helps! For color, I'd keep the matterhorn hull, but on the deck I'd do a two-tone white/ice blue.


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## el9surf

Grovesnatcher did a white and seafoam combo a while back on his 16 whip. He probably has pictures. It looked really good. I have seen other variations of that color combo that look really sharp and also unique.


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## sjrobin

I know you did not request the opinions, but the majority of people here would not change the skiff as you propose. It would be more valuable restored as original. Flip Pallot is 73 years old and a tiller is probably just now getting tough for him to make long grueling runs in. As far as deck color goes, if you fish a lot in bright sun, almost any color other than white is less reflective and easier on the eyes at the end of a long day.


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## Bluwave

sjrobin said:


> I know you did not request the opinions, but the majority of people here would not change the skiff as you propose. It would be more valuable restored as original. Flip Pallot is 73 years old and a tiller is probably just now getting tough for him to make long grueling runs in. As far as deck color goes, if you fish a lot in bright sun, almost any color other than white is less reflective and easier on the eyes at the end of a long day.


Robin I have to disagree with you about the resale value. These HB's sell for more with a side console and side decks than without them.


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## Otter

I say add them. I just sold my Waterman and the guy that purchased it said gunnels were a must. I also recently had a guy offer me a finders fee to help him find a 16' waterman/Whipray. He also said gunnels were a must. When it comes to the rear deck, poling platform, bilge sump, and deck color Chasintail is spot on. The only thing I disagree on is the walking the gunnels. I used them 95% of the time when manovering around my skiff. But I am young and 175lbs soaking wet after Thanksgiving dinner. What is your plan for a side console? Are you keeping it the small flush one like Glasser just did on the Bannana River Skiff or are you going with the new style raised console? I converted my waterman from a SC to a tiller after owning her for about 6 months. I personally liked the tiller a lot better. But I can see why you would want to keep the console. Its more comfortable on long runs and it makes you feel a little safer when running on nasty days. One thing I would add to your list and I couldn't see it being more than a couple hundred bucks. Is shotgun style rod holders under the port side gunnel. Again Chasintail is spot on about it being a pain getting rods in and out. Especially with a side console. That "pretty much" kills your rod storage on the starboard side when it comes to fly and anything over 7'. The rear facing rod holders makes it a little easier to grab a rod and you won't have to walk to the rear everytime. You should be able to store one maybe 2 more rods with them being staggered. 

Hope some of this helps, Evan


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## Chasintail22

Here's a pic of how the 2-tone can look...


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## Bluwave

Otter said:


> I say add them. I just sold my Waterman and the guy that purchased it said gunnels were a must. I also recently had a guy offer me a finders fee to help him find a 16' waterman/Whipray. He also said gunnels were a must. When it comes to the rear deck, poling platform, bilge sump, and deck color Chasintail is spot on. The only thing I disagree on is the walking the gunnels. I used them 95% of the time when manovering around my skiff. But I am young and 175lbs soaking wet after Thanksgiving dinner. What is your plan for a side console? Are you keeping it the small flush one like Glasser just did on the Bannana River Skiff or are you going with the new style raised console? I converted my waterman from a SC to a tiller after owning her for about 6 months. I personally liked the tiller a lot better. But I can see why you would want to keep the console. Its more comfortable on long runs and it makes you feel a little safer when running on nasty days. One thing I would add to your list and I couldn't see it being more than a couple hundred bucks. Is shotgun style rod holders under the port side gunnel. Again Chasintail is spot on about it being a pain getting rods in and out. Especially with a side console. That "pretty much" kills your rod storage on the starboard side when it comes to fly and anything over 7'. The rear facing rod holders makes it a little easier to grab a rod and you won't have to walk to the rear everytime. You should be able to store one maybe 2 more rods with them being staggered.
> 
> Hope some of this helps, Evan



Thanks Evan and congrats on the sale. Why/where would you mount shotgun style rod holders under the gunnel? I throw the fly 95% of the time. 




Chasintail22 said:


> Here's a pic of how the 2-tone can look...


I remember your post on that boat awhile back. Good-looking rig.


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## Chasintail22

Thanks BluWave. I agree with you regarding the rear facing rod tubes. No point in those in a 16' skiff since they won't allow a fly rod to fit.


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## Bluwave

Decided to get a new platform.... Blue Point had one laying around for a whip classic and it's almost perfect. The legs need a little adjusting, but everything else fits great. This should make getting the push pole in/out a little easier.


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## Bluwave




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## Bluwave

I originally planned to have the topside completely Ice Blue, but had to draw the budget line somewhere, so we're going with white on white. She's coming along nicely and should have her on the water in 2-3 weeks.

New platform fits like a glove.










old gas tank









new gas tank










added a riser to the floor


















Stern hatches were stuffed with scrape core.


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## Net 30

Jon and his crew sure know how to bring a shine back...looks great.


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## TidewateR

coming along nicely! I love the new platform


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## FriendlyCheese

Bluwave said:


> I originally planned to have the topside completely Ice Blue, but had to draw the budget line somewhere, so we're going with white on white. She's coming along nicely and should have her on the water in 2-3 weeks.
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Quick question...It looks like the trim tabs are upside down (at least in my eyes from what I've seen). Why is that?


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## MariettaMike

FriendlyCheese said:


> Quick question...It looks like the trim tabs are upside down (at least in my eyes from what I've seen). Why is that?


Chris Morejohn wrote somewhere in his blogs that they had to do that to keep the skiff from sliding.

http://chrismorejohn.blogspot.com/2014/07/chris-morejohn-history-of-hells-bay.html


_".... With the 25 hp the boat would get up on plane with the trim tabs down with the bow barely rising. The Whipray would slide in a turn if the throttle was not eased off for a second to allow for the hull to lean a bit then turned back to full throttle in the turn. The design had to have trim tabs to be used to its full potential. The sliding is one of those compromises that you have in design. On the Whiprays we tried little keel tabs on the trim tabs. We ended up with the tabs having their sides turn down for little keels. Some people complained about this reducing their draft. Draft really was becoming apparent to the adventurer that was now poling a reasonable sized skiff in very shallow water in pursuit of fish. In later designs Hal and I tested many ideas on how to cure the sliding. More on this later.
"_


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## permitchaser

Blue. I've read all the naysayers. It's your boat do what makes you happy


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## Bluwave

The hull is all patched up and looking good. The livewell was negated and the thru hole and overflow were patched up. Next up is the center seat/walkable gunnels and then we should be ready for paint. I can't wait to get this ol' girl back on the water.

Thru hole patched up.









Trolling motor plug patched up









Steering cable hole patched up









Overflow patched up









Finished Hull...



























The center seat is coming together.



























more updates to come.


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## scissorhands

Looking good


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## devrep

when you're all done and had this for awhile the rear deck panel will become your favorite mod.


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## devrep

just realized this boat has a liner.


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## Bluwave

devrep said:


> just realized this boat has a liner.


This waterman is a non-liner, no floor model.


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## devrep

ah, I went back to the photos on the 1st page and I see that now.


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## TXSkiff

Whatcha gonna do with that old Poling Platform?


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## Blue Zone

TXSkiff said:


> Whatcha gonna do with that old Poling Platform?


That's the only negative comment I had about the "before" pics of that boat. Might work either as a cow-catcher bolted onto the front of a Peterbilt or a platform for a skiff with twins. Like your photo, Tex.


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## TXSkiff

Blue Zone said:


> That's the only negative comment I had about the "before" pics of that boat. Might work either as a cow-catcher bolted onto the front of a Peterbilt or a platform for a skiff with twins. Like your photo, Tex.


You should cut it in half and put it in a box and send it to me. It would look real nice on the back of my boat when its done.


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## jboriol

Simple and sweet rig, really lovin it. Jonathan's work is second to none.


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## Bluwave

Its been awhile since my last update so I thought I'd share some recent pics. The skiff is getting close to being complete and I'm hoping to get her back in a week or so (fingers crossed).

I visited Glasser's shop earlier this week to check on the skiff and couldn't be happier with the way she is turning out. The side decks on this thing are incredible. They're as strong as steel and weigh around 3lbs. When it's all said and done this restoration will have added less than 25lbs to the skiff which will make the hull weight around 350lbs.

This project has taken longer than I originally anticipated but I think the end result will be worth the wait.


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## coconutgroves

Hell yeah. Love stuff like this. Keep it coming!


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## Bluwave

I was getting the run around from Jonathan, so I picked the skiff up from Glasser Boatworks this weekend and will have it completed elsewhere. I'll share my experience working with Jonathan Glasser once all legal action has been handled.


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## sjrobin

Wow Blue, six/seven months on the Waterman modifications? Must have been some kind of communication or expectations break down. Any pics of the finish?


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## Net 30

Bluwave said:


> I was getting the run around from Jonathan, so I picked the skiff up from Glasser Boatworks this weekend and will have it completed elsewhere. I'll share my experience working with Jonathan Glasser once all legal action has been handled.


Bummer. You're the not the first guy to have to re-claim an unfinished skiff from Glasser once the job was started. Wonder what's going on over there?

Hope you find a good person to finish the project...good luck.


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## devrep

I sent him an email about some work I wanted to do on my Silverking like 6 or 8 months ago and never even got a response. Maybe a good thing.


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## Barbs_deep

Bluwave said:


> I was getting the run around from Jonathan, so I picked the skiff up from Glasser Boatworks this weekend and will have it completed elsewhere. I'll share my experience working with Jonathan Glasser once all legal action has been handled.


He did great work a couple years ago which I was very happy with. His work has gone to crap and he is not a man of his word. My boat will never go back there. 

Shame, he is very very good at what he does but none of that matters with how business is conducted.


----------



## T Bone

Interested to hear more


----------



## tomahawk

Ahhh....So maybe Brazil Nut wasn't talking out of his ass after all? Didn't he get banned over that deal? I know he got crucified on here...


----------



## Backwater

Net 30 said:


> Bummer. You're the not the first guy to have to re-claim an unfinished skiff from Glasser once the job was started. Wonder what's going on over there?
> 
> Hope you find a good person to finish the project...good luck.


Funny how not all craftsmen are good businessmen and vice-versa. And single person or small shops can come to a complete stop because of personal problems. With doing business with them, you almost have to be there on a regular bases to keep the subliminal pressure on them so they know you are monitoring the progress.


----------



## Bluwave

Here're a few pictures of the skiff when I picked it up from Glasser Boatworks. Glasser is a real piece of work... stole money, stole parts, and 7 months down the drain.


----------



## makin moves

Wow that sucks! I would want to punch him right in the face if that was my baby.


----------



## Lifeaquatic

I am so sorry to hear this. Its unfortunate that this story continues to play out again and again.


----------



## jmrodandgun

Dare I even ask what happened to the poling platform(s)?


----------



## Bluwave

jmrodandgun said:


> Dare I even ask what happened to the poling platform(s)?


He never installed the new one, because he never painted the boat. I sold the old one to a forum member. 

Here's a pic of the base he gave me for the platform.


----------



## sjrobin

We tried to talk you out of changing the layout of the original. And you did not ask opinions about who would be able to restore the original. On the plus side, you still have the hull and it can be restored to original condition.


----------



## devrep

crying shame.


----------



## Bluwave

sjrobin said:


> We tried to talk you out of changing the layout of the original. And you did not ask opinions about who would be able to restore the original. On the plus side, you still have the hull and it can be restored to original condition.


Let me get this right... because I wanted to add a real side console I deserve to have money and parts stolen from me?


----------



## sjrobin

Deserving has nothing to do with your situation. I would not trash talk your choice and I apologize for my offensive comments. Good luck on your restore.

Steve


----------



## T Bone

Bluwave said:


> Let me get this right... because I wanted to add a real side console I deserve to have money and parts stolen from me?


Is this ongoing still or are you open to discuss more in depth what happened? Just curious what happened? I never knew there was a negative stigma surrounding JG but i guess so? Has this sort of stuff happened in the past to other clients? Always thought of him as one of the best in the industry but with the looks of it, that is not the case at all.


----------



## Bluwave

T Bone said:


> Is this ongoing still or are you open to discuss more in depth what happened? Just curious what happened? I never knew there was a negative stigma surrounding JG but i guess so? Has this sort of stuff happened in the past to other clients? Always thought of him as one of the best in the industry but with the looks of it, that is not the case at all.


It's still ongoing so I don't know want to get into all the details, but I will say... I paid Glasser in advance and he didn't live up to his end of the deal. He didn't finish the boat, stole parts and kept the money I gave him for new parts.

Glasser is a nice enough guy and you want the small shops to do well but this guy is nothing but a criminal. He offered me Flip Pallot's old skiff until mine was finished, as long as I didn't tell anyone. Luckily, a majority of our communication happened over text so everything's recorded.

I blame no one but myself for being in this situation as I should've done better research.


----------



## el9surf

Even if you researched you would have found that he has done some amazing work, my boat included. Sad to hear this turned out so poorly. Wondering if he used your money to get his own skiff completed. I heard of another poor experience from another member recently with JG as well. 

Brazilnut had a similar issue with him a couple years ago and had nothing but horrible experiences to relate. Guess he was telling the truth.


----------



## T Bone

Bluwave said:


> It's still ongoing so I don't know want to get into all the details, but I will say... I paid Glasser in advance and he didn't live up to his end of the deal. He didn't finish the boat, stole parts and kept the money I gave him for new parts.
> 
> Glasser is a nice enough guy and you want the small shops to do well but this guy is nothing but a criminal. He offered me Flip Pallot's old skiff until mine was finished, as long as I didn't tell anyone. Luckily, a majority of our communication happened over text so everything's recorded.
> 
> I blame no one but myself for being in this situation as I should've done better research.


Damn, sorry to hear all that. That is pretty shady stuff and unfortunately, pretty common in the marine industry i feel. Hope all works out and you get that bad ass skiff finished right and back on the water


----------



## Bluwave

T Bone said:


> Damn, sorry to hear all that. That is pretty shady stuff and unfortunately, pretty common in the marine industry i feel. Hope all works out and you get that bad ass skiff finished right and back on the water


I appreciate it. They always say, "if you want something done right.. do it yourself" so I plan on doing most the work myself - minus painting. I've been talking with a local Charleston shop, Spartina Company about spraying the topside. The owner Micheal really knows his stuff so I'm confident in his ability to do the job.

Here's what I've done so far after picking the skiff up...










The original wiring didn't use a fuse block so I thought it might be a good idea to start fresh.










The false walls were removed in both stern lockers so I'll run the hoses/cable farther back to save some room. A quick patch job on the old holes and she'll be good as new.





































The center hatch wasn't complete so I needed to either use a router or sand it. I'm more comfortable with my sanding abilities, so I rigged up a a yard stick to keep my lines straight.



















Before I finished the center hatch I wanted to make sure that I get all the mount holes drilled. I also decided to mount the poling platform.



















I mounted some starboard blocks under the forward platform mounts to help dissipate the pressure.










Cut out the base for the platform.










I never realized starboard sands like wood. I had to make some adjustments to fit around the weld lines.










She's starting to take shape.



















She still needs a lot of sanding before she's ready for paint, but I'll get her there. I think I may add a small partition between the stern lockers to act as a bilge area. If I'm doing this much work I might as well go all out... fuck it.


----------



## Net 30

Man, I feel for you...what a nightmare! After 7 months that's all he did? Un-F'n real.

It sure looks to me like your project was used to bankroll the tooling and creation of the parts and hull of the first Glasser 17.


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## yobata

Looks like you are doing well by yourself! keep it up, you will love the skiff that much more because of the labor you put in yourself


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## devrep

I'm curious about the coaming or lip that sticks up all the way around. I have an 01 waterman and my decks are flush.


----------



## Bluwave

devrep said:


> I'm curious about the coaming or lip that sticks up all the way around. I have an 01 waterman and my decks are flush.


Yeah, it's a little different. This was the "Mosquito Lagoon" edition which meant it had no floor, no liner, and no cap. HB made a few of these, but quit producing them because of the labor invovled in hand laying the bow deck, stern lockers... etc. 

Doing this kept the boats extremely light... I believe around 325lbs, but left the finish with a rolled edge. Every mosquito lagoon I've seen is a little different... some have smooth edges while others are more pronounced. 

The only thing that bugs me about these skiffs is the non-skid pattern. I may extend the pattern on mine to be closer to the edge.


----------



## jboriol

Very sorry to see how things went down, I can totally feel your pain. That is a great rig, she'll come out awesome!


----------



## devrep

the floor and liner are the same thing. Mine is also a tiller, no liner and has no walkable gunnels.


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## Bluwave

devrep said:


> the floor and liner are the same thing. Mine is also a tiller, no liner and has no walkable gunnels.


A floor and liner are different... liners have floors, but not all floors have liners.

I can see your skiff has a lip which the platform is mounted to. The one on mine is just more pronounced. I'd imagine there was probably some inconsistencies because they were all done by hand.


----------



## devrep

there is not a lip anywhere but along the top of the transom.


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## Bluwave

devrep said:


> there is not a lip anywhere but along the top of the transom.


I'd shoot Morejohn an email. He can give you a better answer than me.


----------



## devrep

Charlie, this is how my rear casting deck is fastened.


----------



## agc0893

Bluewave... I am sorry to hear about the continuing issues surrounding Glasser Boat Works... I was extremely excited to have literally found my 2001 HB 17.8 Whip in a barn in Louisiana and deliver it to Jonathan for a complete restoration as my posts from close to 2 years ago will indicate, but sadly I will share that I to pulled my boat out of Glasser's shop...not to long after another forum member did the same and had HB complete an amazing restoration. Jonathan is not a bad person, but at that time he simply got in over his head with respects to the business side of things and realistically estimating the time and cost required of this type of work. I chalked my bad experience to his business growing pains and i thought perhaps just an anomaly, but it seems like things have not improved. I will admit that the fit and finish of his cosmetic work is second to none, but that's where it ended for me and certainly no excuse for the nonsense i also had to endure. My mistake was not realizing his limitations and contracting him to do more than he was capable and qualified to handle. That became very apparent as delays dragged on from weeks to months and cost over-runs went from hundreds to potentially thousands before I finally pulled the plug on the project with the boat at 80% complete. After close to 10 months, I became tired of the excuses & antics and I simply decided to complete the work myself. Jonathan can shot one heck of a nonskid and can certainly blend gelcoat like few others can, but a complete boatworks he is not. On the other hand... completing your skiff will be rewarding and very gratifying.

For those that are contemplating using Glasser Boatworks or anyone else for that matter for this type of work... make sure you clearly know the scope of your project and MUTUALLY agree to a clearly stated detailed estimate of labor, parts, contracted work, delivery date, etc... While I secured all of that and required weekly updates, this project still went south, but did prevent a bad experience from turning into a nightmare. And definitely don't provide large advances...always pay in checks made out to the company, provide parts yourself whenever possible and take pictures of them to document. I also reserved the right to provide half the total payment at completion for some further leverage. If a company can't work under those parameters they may not be financially stable enough and should be considered a risk. As an extra measure i also had insurance on my boat.

Over a year later I've given up on Jonathan returning calls and emails to complete cosmetic details, replace paid for cushions, settle up on work I had to get redone, etc... That's certainly no way to run a business, garner a reputation or foster customer loyalty. As a result he loses out on working on my other skiffs and perhaps even yours. Like that old saying goes... where there's smoke, there's usually fire, you guys be the judge. So buyer beware or at the very least... you've been forewarned.

I share my experience for the benefit of this community and offer no ill will towards nor intend to bash Glasserboat Works... eventually your reputation will catch up to you and karma can be a b^tch!


----------



## Bluwave

Thanks for sharing agc0893. Glasser will get what's coming to him.

I finally finished restoring a ramlin I bought awhile back, so the skiff made a new friend last night.


----------



## Whiskey Angler

Bluwave said:


> Thanks for sharing agc0893. Glasser will get what's coming to him.
> 
> I finally finished restoring a ramlin I bought awhile back, so the skiff made a new friend last night.


Nice! So, Did you finish restoring your Waterman?


----------



## Bluwave

Whiskey Angler said:


> Nice! So, Did you finish restoring your Waterman?


Haha, I wish. I'm still a few weeks out, but mainly because I only have time on the weekend to work on her.


----------



## TylertheTrout2

keep up the good work Blu! Sorry to hear about that sh*t storm of a situation...moving forward you'll be so much more proud of her since you're doing a lot of the work yourself...Looking forward to following this restore!


----------



## Action Johnson

When i picked up my waterman my intentions were to have him restore mine sometime in the future, I friend of mine recently took his waterman in to have some minor work done he had a fairly foul experience which really bummed me out. So it looks like ill be looking for a different route when that time comes.

I look forward to seeing how your boat turns out by your own handywork, im sure itll be top notch. Keep up with the pictures!


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## Bluwave

It's been awhile since my last post so I thought I'd give a quick update. Progress has been slower than expected, but that's mainly due to my work schedule and the weather. I originally planned on taking the skiff to Spartina in Charleston for all the paint, nonskid work but was recently introduced to Kurt over at High and Dry Boatworks who offered me a deal to good to pass up. It's truly been a blessing and I'm glad to finally have a place to work on the boat.

Now for some pictures...









First thing on my checklist... fill every hole in the boat. I might as well start with a fresh canvas.









The port side gunnel had a little more flex than I was comfortable with so I decided to give it some extra support. I added 2 layers on 4oz s-glass on top and 2 layers of 9oz tape on bottom, which did the trick. Adding 4oz on top really smoothed things out, so I decided to do it to the starboard side as well. I think this will also save time when I start fairing.










I decided to add a little bilge area since water has had the luxury to roam free for far too long. To make this I cut a piece of 3/4" Coosa board and inserted a piece of fiberglass round tube.










Next, I "dremmled" out some of the floor glass so the round tube had a place to drop in. If I didn't do this water would have to build up before being drained.









Wrapped everything in some glass and she's good to go.









#greatwallofchina










sanding and prep before fairing starts









4oz glass sanded and looking fresh. Now, she's begging to be slapped with some awlfair









she just got slapped










she wants more










boom









she's getting there... I should have this round of fairing sanded this weekend and the second round started.

My goal is to get her faired and painted before the end of December.


----------



## makin moves

Glad you are starting to see the light at the end of the tunnel. Keep us updated.


----------



## JonahNSB

What type of paint did you use on the trailer? Looks good!


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## Bluwave

JonahNSB said:


> What type of paint did you use on the trailer? Looks good!


Raptor Liner by UPOL


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## devrep

wow its turned into quite a project. looks like a lot of sanding.


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## Bluwave

So the boat is almost ready for paint... If it wasn't for my work schedule and bad weather I think she would already be back on the water, but oh well.

Here's some random pictures.










I finally finished patching the switch/ignition holes.





















Then I found some air voids while inspecting bow.



















That escalated quickly. Luckily, nothing major...


















Side console looking good.










I used the dremel on the non skid to allow the eye bolt to mount flush.



















I know a few of you might be wondering why I spent all this time fairing, and it's primarily because I'm extending the non skid pattern. The original pattern created a 5 inch lip of shine around the perimeter of the skiff, which A. creates an unnecessary glare and B. makes for a large surface area to bust your ass. So, I decided to extend the non skid pattern to the lip and it needed to be leveled.

More to come...


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## jboriol

Looking good, lots of progress


----------



## CodyW

Action Johnson said:


> When i picked up my waterman my intentions were to have him restore mine sometime in the future, I friend of mine recently took his waterman in to have some minor work done he had a fairly foul experience which really bummed me out. So it looks like ill be looking for a different route when that time comes.
> 
> I look forward to seeing how your boat turns out by your own handywork, im sure itll be top notch. Keep up with the pictures!


Have you checked out Fowler Marine? They do some nice work, from what I've seen in his shop.


----------



## Bluwave

The weather didn't really workout this weekend but I managed to get started on the center seat/hatch. I decided to use G10 instead of the coosa board for the seat mounts because of the strength/size. The thinner width of the G10 will make things a lot easier when it comes time to glass it to the hatch.

I don't know if anyone has cut G10 before but this stuff burned through 2 jigsaw blades in about 5 seconds. Luckily, the dremel wheel disc did the trick.





































I tabbed the mounts in place with some SIX10 and will hopefully have some s-glass on them this week.


----------



## Bluwave

The center seat is finished and ready for primer prep.


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## jonny

Holy Shiat! Just caught up on this. It sux you became another victim of Glasser Boatworks.That guy need to close shop and go work for someone else's shop. He is no business man and borders on being a crook. I bought a 01 Guide stripped it to a bare hull,pulled the tank,rewired and restored it in about three months in my spare time after a 40hr work week. These 7-8 months waits to do a simple skiff is ridiculous for a full time shop. Let me know if you need some scraps of foam. It might keep from buying a full sheet. I just up 26 from you. Also did he glass the console support?


----------



## jonny

That "Glasser Shine" ain't got Shiat on my skills


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## Whiskey Angler

jonny said:


> That "Glasser Shine" ain't got Shiat on my skills


Will you please share your recipe for the Jonny Shine?


----------



## Bluwave

Thanks for sharing @jonny and I appreciate the foam offer. Do you have any 1/2"? I was about to order some so I could build a base for my poling platform. I lost the first one on the highway somewhere because I forgot to screw it in. 

The console support is made from two pieces penske, which has glass on the outside and a couple layers in the middle.


----------



## jonny

Bluewave I'm pretty sure I have 1/2" it may be 3/4" it's not kirfed. I will dig in my pile when I get home.

Whiskey I will get all the stuff listed. I usually use McGuire's stuff. But basically I start with a heavy cut paste if its oxidized bad. Then work up to a polish/finish in one compound with a good buffer. Rough wool pads work well on the textured nonskid. Without removing it. That gel coat was sprayed in 01. For light scratches you can wet sand prior to buffing and you will never see where it was.


----------



## CodyW

jonny said:


> Bluewave I'm pretty sure I have 1/2" it may be 3/4" it's not kirfed. I will dig in my pile when I get home.
> 
> Whiskey I will get all the stuff listed. I usually use McGuire's stuff. But basically I start with a heavy cut paste if its oxidized bad. Then work up to a polish/finish in one compound with a good buffer. Rough wool pads work well on the textured nonskid. Without removing it. That gel coat was sprayed in 01. For light scratches you can wet sand prior to buffing and you will never see where it was.


Can you make a new thread on this? I'm interested to since I am going to do a color match repair and want to try to bring the shine before I decide whether I need to paint the boat or not.


----------



## jonny

Bluewave I was referring to the filet where the Penske is attached to the side. It looks like it's possibly a epoxy putty maybe. Not sure if that material is strong enough on its own. It may be a weaker putty just for filleting. I know it's not Plexus because it's a dark grey color. You may want to epoxy on some glass just to make sure.

CodyW I will see about doing a thread. I actually got a few people inquiring. I don't want t hijack this one. So stay tuned


----------



## Bluwave

jonny said:


> Bluewave I was referring to the filet where the Penske is attached to the side. It looks like it's possibly a epoxy putty maybe. Not sure if that material is strong enough on its own. It may be a weaker putty just for filleting. I know it's not Plexus because it's a dark grey color. You may want to epoxy on some glass just to make sure.
> 
> CodyW I will see about doing a thread. I actually got a few people inquiring. I don't want t hijack this one. So stay tuned


He used some type of bonding resin to attach the rod racks and then tabbed them to the hull with a couple layers of glass. I think the fillets are just for aesthetics. 

Also, I additionally glassed two layers of glass from the racks to the gunnels, so those suckers aren't going anywhere.


----------



## jonny

Bluwave I do have some 1/2" divenycell 80 and some Coosa board if you need some smaller scraps. And don't want to buy a sheet. You may be able to find some scraps local. If not let me know man.

On a side note to all the guys that wanted info on polishing. I finally started a thread on here
http://www.microskiff.com/threads/how-i-restore-faded-oxidized-gelcoat.43473/#post-342470


----------



## Bluwave

I've been busy with work for the past few months, but I finally got the boat ready for primer. Also, I sold the ole 2-stroke mercury so it's time to start looking for some new power.

Round 1...









Round 2...




































Time for a new motor plate.









No more mercury...









ready for high build primer


















The hours I've spent fairing and sanding is finally paying off.


















I'm ready to run it as-is...


----------



## yobata

Bluwave said:


> I've been busy with work for the past few months, but I finally got the boat ready for primer. Also, I sold the ole 2-stroke mercury so it's time to start looking for some new power.
> 
> Round 1...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Round 2...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Time for a new motor plate.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> No more mercury...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ready for high build primer
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> The hours I've spent fairing and sanding is finally paying off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm ready to run it as-is...


Beautiful work! What are you thinking for power?


----------



## Bluwave

I'm currently looking at these, but I'm open to suggestions. 

- Tohatsu 30 - 179lbs 
- Suzuki 30 - 158lbs **20 inch shaft so I'd have to raise the transom. HB makes a riser for $220.
- Mercury 40 - 216lbs
- Tohatsu 50 - 209lbs


----------



## jboriol

Go with more HP, you'll be happy you did with remote steering and more weight. The Chittum guys are always bragging on Tohatsu, if I had someone who could service it I'd definitely consider one. Looking great!


----------



## mtoddsolomon

I'd say go with the 50. You'll be happy with that, I'm excited to see it finished


----------



## IRLyRiser

I had a tldi 50 and repowered with a 15" shaft Mercury 40. Cruise is the same, maybe lost 2 mph top speed. Like the merc much better, easier to get worked on too. Every part for the tohatsu had to come from Texas.


----------



## CHS on the FLY

I can't wait to see this beauty cruising the waters of Charleston!


----------



## Net 30

The hell with Glasser...your work looks great!

Looks like you're in the home stretch buddy.


----------



## Plantation

Did you spray it yourself or have someone in Charleston do it?


----------



## Bluwave

FlyGheenoe said:


> I can't wait to see this beauty cruising the waters of Charleston!


 Me too man.



Plantation said:


> Did you spray it yourself or have someone in Charleston do it?


I'm doing everything but shooting paint. I don't have that skill in the arsenal, but hopefully one day. High and Dry Boatworks in Charleston, SC is taking care of all the paint work. www.highanddryboatworks.com



Net 30 said:


> The hell with Glasser...your work looks great!
> Looks like you're in the home stretch buddy.


Thanks Net. I've had some really good teachers and help from forum members, so I can't take all the credit. I'm pretty pumped about getting this ole girl finished.


----------



## Whiskey Angler

Bluwave said:


> Me too man.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm doing everything but shooting paint. I don't have that skill in the arsenal, but hopefully one day. High and Dry Boatworks in Charleston, SC is taking care of all the paint work. www.highanddryboatworks.com
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks Net. I've had some really good teachers and help from forum members, so I can't take all the credit. I'm pretty pumped about getting this ole girl finished.


I'm all giddy!! Ready to see this beaut!


----------



## Bluwave

I didn't want to bore everyone with a bunch of sanding pics, but I thought the skiff looked interesting with the dykem on. Maybe I should paint the top tie dye...





  








2001 Waterman guide coat




__
Bluwave


__
Apr 10, 2017











  








2001 Waterman guide coat




__
Bluwave


__
Apr 10, 2017











  








2001 Waterman guide coat




__
Bluwave


__
Apr 10, 2017


----------



## Bluwave

Finished the 545 this morning so she's almost done...


----------



## CHS on the FLY

Get that thing in the water already!


----------



## CodyW

Looks great! How much it costing you to have the painting done?


----------



## Bluwave

CodyW said:


> Looks great! How much it costing you to have the painting done?


I'm doing all the fairing, sanding, and prep so we worked out a little deal. For a skiff this size a normal high build, 545 primer, and topcoat would probably run a little over 3k. It all really depends on how much prep work they have to do.


----------



## Bluwave

The old girl finally gets some paint! The nonskid will go on Tuesday so hopefully I can have her rigged by Friday/Saturday. High and Dry Boatworks truly did an amazing job on the paint. If anyone needs marine work done in Charleston, SC you should look these guys up.


----------



## Bluwave

Bad weather has caused a little bit of a delay but hopefully we can get some nonskid on her tomorrow. Here's a pic with the tape off.


----------



## Bluwave

The skiff has nonskid! It only took 10 years...

We sprayed it this morning, so I'm thinking I can get her semi rigged for a wet test Monday.










I'm really happy with how the bulkhead turned out. The hours I spent fairing and sanding that bad boy really paid off.










Sanding her with 320 in preparation for nonskid.






























Look at that nonskid! Super pumped!



















Pulling tape in the morning so more to come....


----------



## CHS on the FLY

Bluwave said:


> The skiff has nonskid! It only took 10 years...
> 
> We sprayed it this morning, so I'm thinking I can get her semi rigged for a wet test Monday.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I'm really happy with how the bulkhead turned out. The hours I spent fairing and sanding that bad boy really paid off.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sanding her with 320 in preparation for nonskid.
> 
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> 
> Look at that nonskid! Super pumped!
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> Pulling tape in the morning so more to come....


What color is the hull? I am trying to decide on which gray I am going with.


----------



## commtrd

Whisper gray over Kingston gray looks nice...


----------



## CHS on the FLY

commtrd said:


> Whisper gray over Kingston gray looks nice...


I was thinking Chevy White over Whisper Gray. I want to hide all the oyster rash. : )


----------



## Bluwave

FlyGheenoe said:


> What color is the hull? I am trying to decide on which gray I am going with.


The hull is Matterhorn White and the deck is Blue Tone White. The hull looks dark because the deck lip casts a decent shadow.


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## Bluwave

Time to rig.


----------



## IRLyRiser

Very very nice


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## Sublime

I likee.


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## TtoTHEdub

that looks awesome!


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## gletss

damn.


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## Bluwave

I finally got the motor hung! It was a tough decision choosing between speed and a 50hp or draft with a 30hp... in the end I chose draft. They don't make a Suzuki 30 short shaft so I bought the 25hp and converted it to a 30hp.

The motor in this configuration should weigh around 156lbs.




















Here's a good example of why I went with the lighter motor.










She squats to the second chine.










Look at how much of the stern is in the water with a 40hp, jackplate...etc. In my opinion, it defeats the purpose of this skiff if you put that much weight on the rear.

More to come...


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## Sublime

Nice. I think you made the right decision. Did you look at the new 25 Yamaha as well? Or does it not come in a short shaft?

Question with the tabs "upside down" like that does it cost a little bit of draft? I bet it helps the skiff track when running for sure.


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## IRLyRiser

While no doubt the more weight on the back makes the skiff in the pic squat more, the power pole down pushing the right side up prob has it leaning over to the left making it appear to be squatting more in that pic.


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## Bluwave

Sublime said:


> Nice. I think you made the right decision. Did you look at the new 25 Yamaha as well? Or does it not come in a short shaft?
> 
> Question with the tabs "upside down" like that does it cost a little bit of draft? I bet it helps the skiff track when running for sure.



Yeah, I think I did too, but the real test will come when I run her for the first time. I bought the Suzuki before the new yamaha's came out or I would've taken a good hard look at them. Also, I don't believe they make a 15" shaft with power trim/tilt.

The tabs don't effect my draft too much because the bottom in South Carolina is pluff mud. When I get that skinny they cut through the bottom like a knife through butter. If I fished in the Keys more I'd probably flip them back around. The ass of the old whip/waterman hulls can get a little loose sometimes so the tabs help.

After I break the motor in, I'll post some performance numbers with the 30 vs the old 40 Merc 2-stroke.


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## KnotHome

Looking great! How did you keep the 90 degree corners of the non skid rounded and looking good when you taped?


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## Bluwave

KnotHome said:


> Looking great! How did you keep the 90 degree corners of the non skid rounded and looking good when you taped?


First off, make sure you use 3M Fine Line Tape. The tape is a little pricey but well worth the money. 

1. Overlap the tape
2. Use a washer as jig to cut or trace the radius
3. Cut with a razor or x-acto knife

.


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## FSUDrew99

Bluwave said:


> First off, make sure you use 3M Fine Line Tape. The tape is a little pricey but well worth the money.
> 
> 1. Overlap the tape
> 2. Use a washer as jig to cut or trace the radius
> 3. Cut with a razor or x-acto knife
> 
> .


Been wondering what tape has had good results on this type of application. A standard painters tape wouldn't cut it for sure.

For surface deck prep after sanding and cleaning area did you come directly on top of existing gel coat with a paint/epoxy paint or lay down a primer first? I am interested in doing this on my boat down the road possibly. Planned on sanding down all of my nonskid smooth (its the patterned gel coat not granular) and then repaint the deck overall and on the second coat while wet adding my non skid aggregate, once dry applying my final coat of awlgrip, etc.


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## Bluwave

FSUDrew99 said:


> Been wondering what tape has had good results on this type of application. A standard painters tape wouldn't cut it for sure.
> 
> For surface deck prep after sanding and cleaning area did you come directly on top of existing gel coat with a paint/epoxy paint or lay down a primer first? I am interested in doing this on my boat down the road possibly. Planned on sanding down all of my nonskid smooth (its the patterned gel coat not granular) and then repaint the deck overall and on the second coat while wet adding my non skid aggregate, once dry applying my final coat of awlgrip, etc.


I did a good amount of glassing and fairing so this was my application process:

1. Sand with 120 grit and clean
2. Awlgrip High Build Primer
3. Sand with 150 grit and clean
4. Awlgrip 545 Primer
5. Sand with 320 grit and clean
6. Awlcraft 2000 for Shine and Awlgrip for Nonskid

I don't think you'll need to use high build primer, but I'd still recommend using the 545 Primer on top of your existing gelcoat. The 545 primer will provide a uniform color and strong bond for the topcoat to adhere to. We added the nonskid (Awlgrip Griptex) to the paint and sprayed it on, but you can do it the way you mentioned. If you're comfortable spraying, adding the nonskid to the paint mix will make your life easier.

.


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## el9surf

Great work! Looking forward to seeing it rigged.


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## Tx_Whipray

beautiful.


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## CodyW

Bluwave said:


> I did a good amount of glassing and fairing so this was my application process:
> 
> 1. Sand with 120 grit and clean
> 2. Awlgrip High Build Primer
> 3. Sand with 150 grit and clean
> 4. Awlgrip 545 Primer
> 5. Sand with 320 grit and clean
> 6. Awlcraft 2000 for Shine and Awlgrip for Nonskid
> 
> I don't think you'll need to use high build primer, but I'd still recommend using the 545 Primer on top of your existing gelcoat. The 545 primer will provide a uniform color and strong bond for the topcoat to adhere to. We added the nonskid (Awlgrip Griptex) to the paint and sprayed it on, but you can do it the way you mentioned. If you're comfortable spraying, adding the nonskid to the paint mix will make your life easier.
> 
> .


Do you know what size tip was used to spray the non skid?


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## Bluwave

CodyW said:


> Do you know what size tip was used to spray the non skid?


I'm not sure about that, but I'll ask tomorrow.


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## jboriol

Looking great, it will be worth your wait doing it right!


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## Bluwave

After I finished running the fuel lines Monday night I made a b-line to the boat ramp and put the little lady through her paces. Once she was in the water, I knew immediately that I made the right call. The skiff drafts right at 3.4-3.5" with no one on board and a little less than 4.5" with 2 dudes and a good amount of beer.

I'm still breaking in the little suzuki so I don't have any performance numbers, but from what I've seen I'm impressed. I would recommend anyone looking at motors for a 16' whip/waterman to go with a lighter option. The draft difference from the Merc 40hp to a Suzuki 25hp is very noticeable.

Oh, by the way... I installed the steering in reverse so it made the inaugural first time out a little interesting. I didn't take any good pictures because I was too excited, but I did mange to snap a couple. I'll take more this weekend if the weather holds out.


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## Bluwave

more pics...


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## Fritz

Love this skiff, well done!


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## Whiskey Angler

Awesome! Nothing but open spaces in that rig! Looks fantastic.


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## gletss

I see two issues.

1. A 12 pack of Miller Light is not a "good amount of beer"
2. Your boat gives me serious envy.

Easily one of the best builds to exist on this site, let alone anywhere else.


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## Finn Maccumhail

gletss said:


> I see two issues.
> 
> 1. A 12 pack of Miller Light is not a "good amount of beer"
> 2. Your boat gives me serious envy.
> 
> Easily one of the best builds to exist on this site, let alone anywhere else.


I'm not even sure Miller Lite qualifies as beer.


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## Net 30

What's your plan for the rubrail?


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## Copperspoonfly

How fast will the waterman run with a 25 Suzuki?


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## POCtied

turned out great! also interested in speeds with the 25/30


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## Bluwave

Net 30 said:


> What's your plan for the rubrail?


I'm thinking Aluminum because it's cheap and light, but I've also been looking at this stuff called Sphaera.


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## lsunoe

Boat came out awesome man.

How did you convert the 25 to a 30?
And what kind of performance were you seeing with the motor?


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## Bluwave

Copperspoonfly said:


> How fast will the waterman run with a 25 Suzuki?





POCtied said:


> turned out great! also interested in speeds with the 25/30


Completely stock the top speed with 2 people and gear was 29.5mph. I think once I install the performance chip and upgraded prop she'll do 32-33mph.

She cruises nice around 23-25mph, but lets be real... I keep the hammer down. I bought a tiny tach so I'll know more RPM details once I install it. Full disclosure these numbers were based off an iPhone and a hand held GPS.

The weather held off yesterday so I took the skiff out for her first fishing trip and smoked this guy on the first cast. These tailers still get my heart racing.

p.s. please excuse the Irish fro my hair only knows how to grow up.


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## Bluwave

lsunoe said:


> Boat came out awesome man.
> 
> How did you convert the 25 to a 30?
> And what kind of performance were you seeing with the motor?


You just have to swap the ECU's and I think I paid $350 for the 30hp ECU.


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## bryson

That's a solid fish for a high tide flat! I'd love to take a look at the boat sometime -- fantastic job on the restore!


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## TidewateR

skiff turned out great! thanks for keeping us posted


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## Net 30

Bluwave said:


> Completely stock the top speed with 2 people and gear was 29.5mph. I think once I install the performance chip and upgraded prop she'll do 32-33mph.
> 
> She cruises nice around 23-25mph, but lets be real... I keep the hammer down. I bought a tiny tach so I'll know more RPM details once I install it. Full disclosure these numbers were based off an iPhone and a hand held GPS.
> 
> The weather held off yesterday so I took the skiff out for her first fishing trip and smoked this guy on the first cast. These tailers still get my heart racing.
> 
> p.s. please excuse the Irish fro my hair only knows how to grow up.


Great job on the restore and the first fish on the FIRST CAST!

Ummmmmm....I don't know if you realized it or not but - but in your pic, I think you may have pissed yourself in all the excitement.


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## Bluwave

It's been one hell of a journey, but she's finally finished. I truly appreciate all the support, input, and advice from everyone in the Microskiff community. I couldn't be happier with the way this build has turned out and hope the next owner appreciates her as much as I do. The reason I'm selling the skiff is to finance my next project... building one from the ground up.


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## yobata

what are you planning on building next? and what type of material?

this waterman is really sweet! next owner will be very happy


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## Bluwave

yobata said:


> what are you planning on building next? and what type of material?
> 
> this waterman is really sweet! next owner will be very happy


Thanks man. I'm not 100% sure yet but I'm interested in doing one of Morejohn's diy builds


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## yobata

I am also very interested in the Conchfish design


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