# Pathfinder 17T Input Wanted Sitting 8 Years Alive Again



## JMZ400

Motor quit 8 years ago and I'm getting her back on the water. Just picked up and 05 2 Stroker in great shape but I need to make sure everything else is up to par before I take her out. I'm mechanically inclined but new to marine maintenance. I'm know I'm going to need to repair/replace the following:

Fuel lines/tank
Battery/batteries
Electronics (rigged with old Lowrance LMS 240 mice chewed on console plugs and who knows what else)
Trolling Motor (never rigged for one but do a lot of river fishing so I'd like one)
Gauges (has none)
New bildge pumps (think it has two already)
Stereo (Wife has to be happy too)
Power pole?

Any opinions on brands, models, methods I'd love to hear them. Here's a few pics of her present day and one of replacement motor.


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## devrep

I like the Optima blue top batteries and the Minn Kota Riptide SF . I also went with the power pole micro. If the new motor is a yammie 50 2 strike its a great choice. I think most of those boats came with a yammie 2 stroke 60. Nice skiff.


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## JMZ400

It is a 50 as was the previous. (posted in classifieds) I would of preferred a 60 but in the end condition of the unit was more important th and the little bit of power.


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## fjmaverick

I have an identical boat except with a trolling motor mount on the deck and my transom light on my poling platform.
Let me know if I can help.


Fuel lines/tank (havnt done it but it should be simple in this boat) I had my tank cleaned when I repowered

Battery/batteries - I upgraded the cables but kept the same starting battery

Trolling Motor (never rigged for one but do a lot of river fishing so I'd like one) - I have a 24v minn kota system. Quick release doesnt slam and they installed the plugin right behind the nav light post plugin.

New bildge pumps (think it has two already) - should have 2 bilge pumps 1 on each side. 
Power pole? - going to use one of anytides poling platform mounts and a metal pole


Right now I am working on moving my anchor and batteries forward. A 50 should be nice a light. My boat squats with a 70 once you put someone on the poling platform. These boats like the weight to be up front and I find it helps the ride also.


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## devrep

man that 50 looks new.


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## JMZ400

Thanks for the feedback guys.
FJ- You're running 2 batteries? Since you're moving them up, where are they now and do you think moving at least one under the console makes sense?
When it comes to electronics, I really am not that familiar with any, having only used this Lowrance 240 a few times, but mainly want something with excellent maps/gps as it's way too easy to get lost amongst the mangrove mazes. This 240 should still work. Any real reason to upgrade it other than color screen?


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## blackmagic1

I put a quick release bracket for TM on the front. 55lb Riptide gets it done all day. I mounted a Battery Tender on the vertical surface where rod tips go, bottom. Just made a little plate that way I didn't have to cut new holes. Also to keep water from getting in. Also put a circuit breaker between battery and TM. I had thehe battery up front for years. Then I had a fire start that ran down my wires like a fuse towards my gas tank......needless to say, moved battery to back with breaker. I've been wanting to move it under the console, but I don't think i have the room due to my raw water intake hose for my 22 gal livewell comes up there. 
I would suggest getting some cable/wire pulling lube if you're going to run any new lines. It's pretty tight everywhere on that boat. 
Can't help you with the Lowrance unit, I had a simple Lowrance unit but could never get it to read right with a transom mount and I just use Motion X GPS on my iPhone for maps.


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## JMZ400

Great tips especially on the lube. Where is this 22gal livewell?


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## Robby Stubley

If you go with a powerpole, I would put a micro on that boat. That being said, if it were me, I would use a fiberglass anchor pin (I have an 8' Stick-it pin) and put that money towards something else. If there's a chance the mice may have chewed up any of the other wires besides the ones to the lowrance, you may just want to run new wires. Attach your new wiring to the end of your old wiring with a loop and zip-tie, and pull the old wiring out/new wiring in.


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## yobata

I never pull cable/wire with zip ties, instead I just use a 8-10" spot to tape with electrical tape. The tape is strong enough to hold but weak enough to pop if there are places where wires are zip tied or otherwise secured to things (bulkheads, cap, etc). If it ever pops and you need to run a pull string I use a shop vac and nylon string tied to a small plastic baggie to run a pull string thru conduit/pipe...


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## JMZ400

Took a few shots today under the console and the stern. Wiring still looks good to me. I really have no real reason to have to replace it. The last time the boat was out everything worked just fine except the motor lol. Other than copious amounts of wire, do you think it looks ok or normal?


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## Robby Stubley

Besides a lot of excess wire, that all looks to be in pretty good shape.


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## zthomas

Another vote of confidence for the 50. When I bought mine, I was hoping to find one with a 60. But man, the 50 is quite a bit lighter, pops her up fast and shallow, and hits about 32 mph WOT, which is believe is about the same as the 60.

One important observation. When I got mine, it had a 14p Yamaha "black stainless" 3-blade with the motor mounted in the lowest position. I could only get about 5100 rpm out of it at around 31 or 32 mph. I raised the motor TWO holes and went to an 11p PowerTech SCB 4-blade. Now I get 5400-5500 rpm at 32 mph and much better hole shot. I know, the slip numbers are negative and I can't explain why, but I'm not going to argue with the performance.

In my opinion, raising the engine two holes is huge -- you gain a good 1.5" of running draft plus some top end and, at least with the 4-blade, I have no trouble with ventilation. I mean, it still slides like a jetski in hard turns, but that's just the nature of the beast. It doesn't break loose at all in chop.

I'll try to post some photos soon. I'm working through a lot of stuff, including a rewire, trolling motor (with QR bracket), fuel tank install, new no-feedback helm, repairing and painting compartments, new platform, etc.


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## JMZ400

Yes the wiring condition appears good, but since I grew up in the car stereo age, that rats nest looks horrible.

My old 50 has a 4 blade PowerTec just not sure of the pitch. I'll be transferring it over. I never really had a power complaint so I'm fine with it.









The quick release trolling motor mounts you and others speak of. Is it a universal mount? I assumed all motors came with their own mount and it would be quick release by default?


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## zthomas

This is what I used. It's basically a little "puck" that mounts permanently to the deck. The motor itself mounts to a large plate that can be secured (and locked) to the puck. http://www.minnkotamotors.com/Products/RTA-19-QUICK-RELEASE-BRACKET/


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## zthomas

That SWC has more elevation capability and "grip" than the SCB, according to PowerTech. The SCB has less aggressive cupping, gets out of the hole faster but can't run as high in the water flow.

They told me if I went with the SWC they'd recommend a 3-blade 12p, said the 4-blade SWC would be overkill unless I wanted to jack it way up. Only thing I'd say is make sure you're getting enough rpm at WOT.

I'd also strongly recommend hanging your engine in the second-from-highest position, assuming you won't be adding a jackplate. Especially with that super cupped prop, you should have no ventilation issues and run both shallower and faster.


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## fjmaverick

JMZ400 said:


> Yes the wiring condition appears good, but since I grew up in the car stereo age, that rats nest looks horrible.
> 
> My old 50 has a 4 blade PowerTec just not sure of the pitch. I'll be transferring it over. I never really had a power complaint so I'm fine with it.
> 
> The quick release trolling motor mounts you and others speak of. Is it a universal mount? I assumed all motors came with their own mount and it would be quick release by default?



That looks like a 12p in the pic


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## JMZ400

Great info Zack, thanks.


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## devrep

I have SWC4's in 10 and 12 pitch. great prop for a tunnel hull.


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## devrep

is that boat set up for a 20" motor?


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## JMZ400

When you ask if it's set up for a 20", do you mean from Pathfinder or by me? I have done nothing to the set up. As far as I know it's just as it left Pathfinder. This pic shows my current settings. Maybe you can tell me something I should know before having the next motor rigged.


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## blackmagic1

sorry best pic i can manage with one hand (just had shoulder surgery weds)


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## Floodtide bandit

Anyone have a17t for sale ???


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## JMZ400

Thanks for the pic Black. Is that a portable unit?

Floodtide: I'd suggest a WTB thread, there's always one around somewhere.


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## blackmagic1

its the older version of the Keep Alive 20. http://www.keepalive.net/tanks.htm

then basically this coming in. 









hose comes up under console and through into well. outflow down and out the stbd side. i can black it out with whitebait or keep 2 reds alive in it all day.


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## blackmagic1

you can also kind of see where the battery tender trolling motor plug is mounted. didnt need to make new holes and water never sit in it.


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## JMZ400

Water fuel separators... where do you have yours mounted in your 17T?


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## blackmagic1

JMZ400 said:


> Water fuel separators... where do you have yours mounted in your 17T?


Rear hatch stbd side. Moved the primer bulb above deck.


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## JMZ400

Thanks Black. Also need to install a water separator was wondering if they interfere with a premix 2 stroke. Is there a certain micron I need for premix if I go that route?


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## blackmagic1

JMZ400 said:


> Thanks Black. Also need to install a water separator was wondering if they interfere with a premix 2 stroke. Is there a certain micron I need for premix if I go that route?


I'm a mixer too. 10 micron is what I use. Also moving the bulb up top has been a relief. 
Do you happen to have a cover for your boat? I'm in the market for one and looking. I bet people think we should probably make our own subforum and not bore them


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## JMZ400

My bulb is already above. I was hoping this thread would contain multiple solutions for nubi's like me. I plan to begin flushing my tanks and running new fuel line tomorrow. It's nice to have you and a few others with the 17T contribute- Thanks


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## JMZ400

Ok so I planned on removing the old 50 today but immediately realized the two lower transom/bracket bolts are put through with the bolt head facing on the outside, I couldn't locate the two lower bolts/nuts from the inside. Is there a trick to getting to them? Remove the liner? Is the transom have some type of threaded insert inside so I don't need access?


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## zthomas

It's possible your boat is configured differently, since mine is the side console version, but I doubt it.

The nuts are there; they're just a b***h to get to. I'm 6'0", and I was just barely, barely able to get a wrench on them by kneeling in the cockpit and stretching as far as I could around behind the bait tank. I remember thinking they were higher than they seemed like they should be too.

Maybe try a small mirror on an extendable stick like they sell in auto parts stores to verify that the nuts aren't covered by the plastic compartment liner. On mine they weren't.

Obviously you have to have a helper to turn the bolts from the outside.


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## blackmagic1

Man that sucks. I'd go take a look inside mine, but cant with this sling on. Taking a look at your previous picture, I'm pretty sure the nuts will be above the plastic box.


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## JMZ400

Well since I don't have the engine hoist yet I thought I'd pull the fuel tank today and clean it out.
















I then got the bug to do a little polishing on the hull. The lighting was different on the darker pic but if you use only the reflection of my drop light bulb you can see a big difference. I used a dual action polisher from Harbor Freight and 3M Marine Rubbing Compound followed by a McGuire's Carnuba wax. I plan on hitting again with a finer grit polish as I'm not totally happy yet.
Before:








After:


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## zthomas

Looking good. For what it's worth, on mine, I emptied out both forward and aft compartments, cleaned the grease and buildup out of the plastic tubs with dish soap and a little TSP, then scuffed the plastic with 150-grit paper and sprayed with white Krylon Fusion out of a rattle can.

Not exactly fine craftsmanship, but it looks a hell of a lot better, and the paint actually seems to stick pretty well. My tubs had turned an an ugly yellow. Think I'll probably lay down some DriDek on the parts of the tubs that get the most wear.

JMZ, if you have a chance would you measure the length and height of that Pathfinder decal? Need to order some new ones.


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## devrep

its cool that the fuel tank is that easy to service. Try 3M Finessit after using the rubbing compound. Makes a big difference. I like collinite fleetwax but that's just me.


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## JMZ400

I think I read "LWALKER" on here does decals and has those specific decal dimensions.
I'm on my way to buy the 3M Finesse IT now.


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## JMZ400

EDIT:
I have now found the sending unit gasket as they are fairly standard. However, the smaller one for the fuel pick up seemed to be a real unicorn. Ironically it seems some "whole house" water filters come with almost an identical match minus the screw holes. 









Here are my tank gaskets from the sending unit and the pick-up. Since they are 16 years old, I'm replacing them.


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## FishNCoach

Looks good! Check out my album ... I totally restored mine


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## JMZ400

Thanks Coach.

Well we pulled off the old 50 last night with hopes of after a quick transom detail hanging the "new to me 05 50hp. However when we uncharted the 05 this is what we found. 








I notice this up purchase because it was blocked by the crate. Not knowing the R and R procedur on this trim motor, we stopped the install figuring it would be easier replace prior to hanging it on the boat. Would any of you keep it? Replace now?


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## zthomas

I wish I could be more helpful, but I'm new to Yamaha and not much of an engine guy anyway. I can say that I had an old Optimax 150 on a previous boat that had a trim motor that looked at least that bad when I bought it and continued to work without issue for 11 more years.

It does look pretty awful though, and it would certainly be easier to replace before you hang the motor. Any idea on cost for a new unit? I replaced one on an E-TEC a year or so ago, and it wasn't a particularly hard DIY job.


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## JMZ400

Yeah I just can't see risking it if I don't have to. I found a great deal on a new OEM unit and will be going that route.


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## blackmagic1

JMZ400 said:


> Yeah I just can't see risking it if I don't have to. I found a great deal on a new OEM unit and will be going that route.


Definitely change that bad boy out before hanging. It is a major pain in the azz. Major! Mostly due to the way the motor sits between the "sponsons". Unobstructed, it's an easy job. I got mine at rareelectric I believe and it was under 100 bucks. Works like a champ.


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## SomaliPirate

I'm running basically the same setup with a Yammy 60. If you don't mind, where did you find those tank gaskets and what was your procedure for cleaning the tank? Mine runs great but I keep having to replace fuel filters and water separators. I'd like to clean out my tank and solve those issues for good.


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## JMZ400

I simply pulled the tank and used my pressure washer to clean it inside and out. Only used water.
The fuel gauge gasket is a very standard size and can be found on eBay, west marine, or any other boat supply store.
The smaller fuel pick up gasket was another story. Technically I wasn't able to find one. I happened to be replacing the Whole House Water Filter on my well pump and noticed the certain filters I had bought have a gasket on each end almost exactly the same size so I'll be using one of them after punching the appropriate bolt holes through it. I'd be happy to send you one if you need it. The filter had been purchased at Wal-Mart.


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## zthomas

Don't want to hijack this, but just got mine back from the metal fab place yesterday with new platform and a support leg for the console. Still a LOT of work left, but happy with results so far. Went low and forward on the platform because 1) I weigh more than anybody I pole so I want my weight as far forward as reasonably possible and 2) the people I fish the most with (kids, wife, dad) aren't exactly self-sufficient, so I wanted it to be easy to get down and help them with stuff. Modeled it after the low-profile platforms on some of the Maverick HPX-Ts.

Also added a tilt NFB helm and new wheel so I can sort of drive standing up.


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## SomaliPirate

JMZ400 said:


> I simply pulled the tank and used my pressure washer to clean it inside and out. Only used water.
> The fuel gauge gasket is a very standard size and can be found on eBay, west marine, or any other boat supply store.
> The smaller fuel pick up gasket was another story. Technically I wasn't able to find one. I happened to be replacing the Whole House Water Filter on my well pump and noticed the certain filters I had bought have a gasket on each end almost exactly the same size so I'll be using one of them after punching the appropriate bolt holes through it. I'd be happy to send you one if you need it. The filter had been purchased at Wal-Mart.


Thanks for the info, I might just PM you with my info to get one of those smaller gaskets. Regarding prop, I'm running a PowerTech SCD 4 blade, 15 pitch. I'm seeing about 32mph WOT with one angler and gear. Holeshot is amazing and I can run fully trimmed up with no ventilation. Also seems to take some of the pucker factor out of sharp turns versus the old factory 3 blade.


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## JMZ400

Zach- No Hi-jack at all! As far as I'm concerned all posts 17T are welcome in my thread. Looks amazing and that steering setup is sweet. Previously I had the side console and liked the room it afforded but not the requirement to remain seated while driving. Your solution will help.

Somali- Please note while my rubber gasket does seem to fit the bill size wise, It's designed for a water system and may not hold up to fuel for very long. I have several I could send, for that matter it may be easier for you to pick up a pack of filters at Wal-Mart. It will net you 4 washers in the event they don't hold up lol


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## JMZ400

Got the new Trim Motor installed tonight. Fairly straightforward and much easier with motor still off the boat. My fluid looked like Shit so I will be changing that out too.








Then got her set in place only to find my new tube of 4200 was somehow partially cured so have to finish tomorrow night.


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## zthomas

That bites about the sealer. In case it helps, here's where I hung mine.

Saw your msg about cables. Will take some pics shortly.


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## JMZ400

Edit- Disregard Zack. There was no way for me to mount it any higher without drilling new lower transom holes and I wasn't doing that. Motor is hung and holes are sealed. 
Zack- when you hung yours there, did you need to drill a second set of bottom holes?


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## zthomas

I didn't have to drill, but now that you mention it, I recall reading in a couple of different places that some of them came with holes drilled so that the engine couldn't be moved. Glad you got it hung.


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## JMZ400

Well I guess you could say I'm in the reassembly phase. Not that I took the whole boat apart but I'm a big fan of "restoring as I go" I only washed the front compartment after removing fuel tank, so there's still a few rust stains, but it's still much better. Also couldn't help but to polish up the hold down straps too. I also installed the fuel pick up and sending unit with the new gaskets.








Before:








After:


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## blackmagic1

looks good. If you find yourself with a fuel issue you cannot solve, replace that anti siphon valve with a spike.


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## JMZ400

Is "spike" the technical term? I'm not familiar?


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## zthomas

Looking good. Your tub isn't all yellowed like mine was. Need to get some of those cable ties to hang my fuel line like that.

I think it's "barb," not "spike." I actually bought an anti-siphon, but then several people I consider pretty knowledgeable said to use just a plain hose barb fitting instead. I'll report back if the boat blows up.


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## JMZ400

Have a question here: When I changed out the trim motor fluid was less than clean but not milk. I had to remove much of it in order to see what I was doing. So now its very low I'm sure, but more importantly I want to flush the remainder of that old fluid out. I've searched around and only found how to add fluid. Can you help?


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## blackmagic1

Barb is correct....blame it on the whisky.


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## Forcefed

Awesome to see a skiff come back to life, boats looking good.


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## SomaliPirate

JMZ400 said:


> Zach- No Hi-jack at all! As far as I'm concerned all posts 17T are welcome in my thread. Looks amazing and that steering setup is sweet. Previously I had the side console and liked the room it afforded but not the requirement to remain seated while driving. Your solution will help.
> 
> Somali- Please note while my rubber gasket does seem to fit the bill size wise, It's designed for a water system and may not hold up to fuel for very long. I have several I could send, for that matter it may be easier for you to pick up a pack of filters at Wal-Mart. It will net you 4 washers in the event they don't hold up lol


I picked up those gaskets this week, so once I run a little fuel out of the tank I'll attempt the same job.


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## JMZ400

She's Alive.... well electric is hooked up. Everything except one trim tab is working. I can hear a slight click if I listen up close to the actuator. Maybe I can service it by cleaning a few contacts. This is great news considering I had mice living in it while in indoor storage.


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## zthomas

Congratulations -- looking good!

I've had a hell of a time finding time to work on mine the last few weeks. Got some fairly minor stuff to do like support hinges on the hatches and some final electrical before the next big step -- pulling the rubrail, which I'm not looking forward to.

Think I'll pull it and clean out all the old goop and mess myself, then find some help to bond the joint more securely. My stringers are solid -- redone at the factory -- but I've got some flex in the bow that I think is a result of the deck/cap moving fairly freely on the hull.


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## fjmaverick

zthomashome said:


> Don't want to hijack this, but just got mine back from the metal fab place yesterday with new platform and a support leg for the console. Still a LOT of work left, but happy with results so far. Went low and forward on the platform because 1) I weigh more than anybody I pole so I want my weight as far forward as reasonably possible and 2) the people I fish the most with (kids, wife, dad) aren't exactly self-sufficient, so I wanted it to be easy to get down and help them with stuff. Modeled it after the low-profile platforms on some of the Maverick HPX-Ts.
> 
> Also added a tilt NFB helm and new wheel so I can sort of drive standing up.


I like that platform a lot
I have a 70 fourstroke on mine and I have to have the jackplate almost all the way down to get it to tilt without hitting the platform.

I need something that gives me a little more room or i need to remove it all together


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## zthomas

I haven't had a chance to use it much yet, but so far I'm very pleased. Obviously you lose some visibility being lower, but I really like being able to get up there with one big step. Not sure if I mentioned this in my earlier post, but I showed the fab shop pics of the lower-profile Maverick HPX-T platforms (like below) and told them I wanted something similar.


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## JMZ400

I fired her up last night and she's purring like a kitten. Only took one mouthful of fuel to get all the new fuel line and water filter primed. Once I get the shifter set up and the trim properly bled I'll be ready for a water test.

I was just looking at hatch supports last week. Are you thinking gas pressurised? I'd be very interested in that.

I'm not sure my rubrail needs sealing but probably does. Please take a few pics of that if you do.


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## fjmaverick

Look at the gemlux friction hinges?
Gen 1 non adjustable are at a steap discount right now

Gen 2 are adjustable but no discount


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## zthomas

I'm going with just the plain old support hinges. The gas struts are nice, but for my purposes not nice enough to justify the added expense and difficulty of installation. Honestly, the only reason I'm putting any kind of supports on at all is to reduce the chances of my 7-year-old getting his fingers slammed under a lid.

JMZ, I'm doing the rubrail not so much because it leaks (although it does) but more to re-do the hull-deck joint. I was rolling the boat across some pavers a few months ago, pushing from the bow. My fingertips were up underneath the rubrail, and I noticed the every time the bow wheel bumped over a seam in the pavers, I could distinctly feel the two parts moving independently of each other. When I checked further, I found that there's lots of play in the joint back about as far as the forward bulkead.

Plan is to remove the existing screws, clean all the old gunk out of the joint, shoot some fancy methacrylate boding agent in, then re-screw in new holes that aren't so wallered out.


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## fjmaverick

My boat still has the coil spring support. Ive lost count of how many times Ive bumped the spring and got whacked in the head by hatch.


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## zthomas

Hm, that doesn't sounds great. I had the hinges on my last boat, the hatches were much smaller.

Guess I'll measure this evening and see if any of the friction hinges on sale will fit.

I've never used friction hinges before. So they just hold the lid in whatever position you release it? Or let it close more slowly? I guess it obviously depends on the amount of friction, weight and dimensions of the hatch, etc.


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## JMZ400

Well I got the shifter and lower unit working on the same page today. Lower Unit seemed to be in Forward so I dropped it, put the shift lever in Forward and carefully reattached the lower unit and done.
Then I had the wife run the trim while I fed it new fluid and it worked perfectly. Also switched over to my stainless prop.








Went over to the Silver River for an evening cruise and sea trial.








Me and my son. He's been a big help along the way and had never riden in it before since he's 4 and it's been broken for 8 years.


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## SomaliPirate

Looking good!


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## JMZ400

Thanks Somali

Next on my list is installing a tach. This tach came with my 05 motor. My controls are 2000 or 2001. Can someone who knows please tell me how and where this connects to? I only have what you see. I see harnesses for sale but I'm not sure if if it needs to be run all the way to the motor or if it plugs into the control/shifter box.


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## fjmaverick

Run those tabs man
The 17t has is quite flat but it can take a chop if you run the tab opposite the chop
(Opposite switch... dont mean to be confusing since tabs are wired opposite the switch)


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## JMZ400

FJ- I do/will run them but the port side one isn't moving. It seems to be getting power just not responding. I think maybe it's just poor connections on the spade connectors. That's on the to-do list as well.


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## AfterHours2

Nice job! I often wonder who the genius was that decided to drill the transom holes so that you cannot raise the motor. I ended up filling my bottom holes, if I remember correctly, and drilling new ones to move the motor up a little. On another note, I was truly amazed at how shallow the 17T would run. I also had the platform forward of the motor and it seemed to help well with the squat. Enjoy!


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## fjmaverick

I havnt truly tested how shallow mine can run yet but I dont have a scratch on the skeg


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## zthomas

I can't tell you how shallow in inches, but I can confirm shallow enough to scare the crap out of wives and most other passengers.

JMZ, on your tabs, do you have the "tactile" switches with the little "brain box?" Or just plain rockers switches? The brain boxes go bad pretty often and create weird problems.


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## swaddict

JMZ400 said:


> Thanks Somali
> 
> Next on my list is installing a tach. This tach came with my 05 motor. My controls are 2000 or 2001. Can someone who knows please tell me how and where this connects to? I only have what you see. I see harnesses for sale but I'm not sure if if it needs to be run all the way to the motor or if it plugs into the control/shifter box.


that is the same tach that I installed on mine, it was just plug and play with the existing wiring harness. I can check tonight


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## JMZ400

Zach- I just have regular rockers. I can hear a slight "bump of power" at the port actuator, so I'm thinking it's getting power, just not full voltage etc. I'll tear into it eventually.

Swaddict- That would be great. Please include your remote and motor year. Thanks


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## swaddict

JMZ400 said:


> Zach- I just have regular rockers. I can hear a slight "bump of power" at the port actuator, so I'm thinking it's getting power, just not full voltage etc. I'll tear into it eventually.
> 
> Swaddict- That would be great. Please include your remote and motor year. Thanks


2000 Yamaha 60hp, same colors from the tach plugged into the same color wires from the motor wire harness


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## JMZ400

Great thanks. Was that a harness run all the way to the motor in addition to the 10 pin or just from tach to remote?


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## zthomas

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Just a quick update. It's starting to come together some. Got my cooler/casting platform mounted and more or less finished up in the hatches.

Mine came with a portable tank system, but I was able to buy an original aluminum tank from a guy who had switched to portable. I didn't want to screw it down to the floor of the plastic tub, because I worried the screw tips might hit the inside of the hull as the tub flexed in chop. So I shaped little tapered strips out of 1" x 2" wood, glassed them to the bottom of the plastic tub with G/flex epoxy, and then screwed into those.

I also used G-flex and cloth to reinforce the floor of the tub near the back end of the compartment where it was cracking from the weight of the trolling motor battery and the portable tank pounding on it. Then I shaped a couple of small "feet" to support the aft end of the tank and glassed those in as well. Then added filler cap and hose and vent hose and fitting.

The tank looked terrible and was full of cobwebs and who knows what else, so I flushed it out extensively, then cleaned all the muck off the exterior, sanded, sprayed with self-etching primer, then Rustoleum. I'm pretty pleased with the results. It's rock-solid, no fuel odor, and looks quite a bit better. I also added a water separator on the wall of the aft compartment.

Electrically, almost everything on the boat worked when I bought it, but it had no master switch and some other weird stuff, like a single on-off-on switch for the bait and bilge pumps so you could run the bait pump or the bilge pump but not both.

I tore most of it out and added a master switch, new fuse box, and switch panel. It's not one of those geometrically perfect wiring jobs with 4,000 zip ties that's capable of withstanding complete immersion in saltwater for three weeks, but it's logical and it works. I also added a new breaker and new trolling motor wiring in the bow.

More later about reinforcing my flexing, creaking, rattling hatch lids...


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## JMZ400

Zach- I know you were considering a color change on your hull, but that thing looks great. I'm not sure I'd do anything if you didn't need to. It just looks so clean.


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## zthomas

Thanks -- it's coming along. I don't think I'll paint the hull. If I do anything, I'll paint everything from the rubrail up ice blue or something similar and do new nonskid. I really like the look of ice blue or aqua mist decks. That's entirely budget dependent, though. First I've got get the hull-deck joint right and a couple other things.


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## fjmaverick

Has anyone replaced the rod tubes in the front hatch?
Every so often one of mine will pop out and its a PIA. Dont really trust them like that...
Also want to redo the plastic that the tips guide through as its really dull. Back to black or any other ideas?


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## zthomas

I tried chasing down the flanges that screw into the bulkhead a while back. I haven't measured carefully, but I'm pretty sure this is them: http://thmarine.com/utility-flanges-and-pedestal-holders.html

On the tubes, I've played with the idea of trying to suspend them from the top of the compartment somehow to take some of the weight off where they slide over the flanges. It is a PIA for sure.


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## JMZ400

FJ- For your plastic stuff this is hard to beat. It's DupliColor Vinyl and Fabric Coating. It really adheres well. I've used it on plastic panels in my old Honda and its super. I wouldn't mess with any type of dressing. Comes in Glossy or Flat. I'd do them in glossy.


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## fjmaverick

im an oem or oem+ guy


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## JMZ400

Not sure I understand, but I can assure you it will look as close to oem as possible. I'm not sure what level of gloss or flat they had as new but at this point it would be your preference.


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## SomaliPirate

fjmaverick said:


> Has anyone replaced the rod tubes in the front hatch?
> Every so often one of mine will pop out and its a PIA. Dont really trust them like that...
> Also want to redo the plastic that the tips guide through as its really dull. Back to black or any other ideas?


Probably not the best solution, but I superglued my tubes in. I got sick of them falling out.


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## JMZ400

Well guys I hope you're enjoying the weekend on the water. This leaf spring issue has had me sidelined all week. Turned into wew hubs as well. I'll add some pics to this for others like me that have never done it before.


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## JMZ400

Ok well failed to take bearing pics but there's plenty of info on YouTube. Anyway, question for you 17T owners. Is your skiff very nose LIGHT while sitting on the trailer? Take a look at a side shot of mine and tell me what you think. In this pic, the boat could stand to be moved forward about 5 more inches. But as it sits, I can rock the nose up and down with one hand. What's the proper trailer to boat length ratio?


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## Rusty60

You need to crank your winch a few more turns so the eyelet is "seated" against your trailer bow roller. If you leave it the way it is shown in the pic you will bounce all day long.


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## zthomas

I'm no expert, but it seems like as long as your bunks go all the way to the transom, scooting the boat forward shouldn't make any difference. A difference in tongue weight yes, but not a difference in how light or heavy the bow feels.

Dumb question maybe, but are your bunks solid? Or is possible the back ends are flexing downward? Or maybe there's play where the front ends are bolted to the frame?

Otherwise, seems like the best option would be to lower your bow roller a bit, so your strap pulls the bow slightly downward against the roller. Is it adjustable?


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## SomaliPirate

I'm running the original EZ Loader trailer and I crank mine as far forward as possible. The bow still feels a little light on the trailer but I don't get any bounce. The main issue I get is with flat bunks, the skiff wants to slide a little from side to side on the trailer no matter how well I tie it down at the stern.


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## fjmaverick

I crank the bow as much as I can. I do have two batteries in the front of mine that I plan on removing and replacing with sand bags. I only notice the motor moving during trailering. The Wesco trailer sits level behind on the back of my suv.


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## JMZ400

Well you guys are right about a few more cranks to stop the bouncing. I guess it's fine. Thanks for replies.


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## Rusty60

JMZ400 said:


> Well you guys are right about a few more cranks to stop the bouncing. I guess it's fine. Thanks for replies.


Glad it was an easy fix for you.


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## JMZ400

Ok a bit of trailer, wheel bearing, grease seal info.

L44649 is my bearing size.
12192TB was grease seal.

I incorrectly installed the new grease seal leading to grease leaking after only 10 miles. Local search at parts stores turned up nothing, not even cross reference. I was finally able to get the part number off of a bearing set at O'Reilly's and had them look it up. It's a regular stocked seal. That Brand and number is MasterPro 203029. Made by National I believe.

If you need a seal today and don't have time to order it online this is it! Hope that helps someone.


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## JMZ400

Found myself heading down south today so I made a stop at MBC in hopes of getting a tour but unfortunately they normally do them on Friday's at 2pm. Still cool to see the Mirage in the lobby.


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## JMZ400

While chasing down the oil leak tonight, I broke this bolt. Who can tell me how critical it is. I can see what it does, just afraid I'd end up breaking off many more if I attempt to remove it. I'm thinking run it and see what happens??

__
Sensitive content, not recommended for those under 18
Show Content


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## Forcefed

Well that bolt secured the top left corner of the water jacket. Check to make sure the water jacket doesn't weep water from that corner while it's running. Otherwise I would think the oil tank being held from below and to the left with the other two bolts should suffice.


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## zthomas

Pulled my rubrail off a few days ago to re-do my hull-to-deck joint and wanted to share what I found.

I haven't settled on how exactly I'm going to put it back together. Going back and forth between a methacrylate like Plexus (expensive, requires specialized tools, not sensitive to surface preparation, probably overkill) and a polyurethane like 5200 or Sikaflex 292 (easier to apply, cheaper, but requires good surface prep and might not be sufficient for filling and bonding areas with large gaps). At this point, I'm kind of leaning toward a combination: polyurethane in the areas without large gaps, methyl in the big gaps.

As I think I've mentioned, I pulled it apart in the first place because I was getting a lot of flexing from the bulkhead forward. It wasn't that noticeable in bigger chop, but in small "washboard" wind ripples, the bow deck visibly "jiggled" up and down when on plane. I discovered that was because for about the front three feet, the deck was completely loose from the hull; the screws had all broken out of their holes in the hull and the adhesive sealant had totally failed.

Looking forward to a more solid feeling boat once I get it all back together.

First look after removing rub rail









Several of these quarter-sized holes with wet foam. Not sure what they are.









All screws near bow were broken free from hull and had backed as far out as the rub rail would allow









Deck offset substantially to port at bow. 









Large gap (1/2" in places) along port bow and around starboard corner.









Overview after a bit of cleanup. Took out exactly 161 screws, not counting the ones holding the rub rail.


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## fjmaverick

braver man than me


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## zthomas

Yeah, it isn't going to be fun. But there's no going back now. I cut out all the old sealant and cleaned up in there to the extent I could with a wire wheel on a drill. Kind of thinking I'll go with a new rub rail too, instead of re-installing the old one, which was in three separate sections.


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## JMZ400

I know you've been tossing around the idea of painting her. Now would be a great time to maybe just redo the top deck. 

My factory non skid is Sun faded and hard to clean. I'm sure you could top coat it with something?


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## FishNCoach

zthomashome said:


> Yeah, it isn't going to be fun. But there's no going back now. I cut out all the old sealant and cleaned up in there to the extent I could with a wire wheel on a drill. Kind of thinking I'll go with a new rub rail too, instead of re-installing the old one, which was in three separate sections.


Haha! I've seen this before!! That's exactly how mine looked when I first resealed it. No worries . All I did was remove all screws. I got a tube of white 5200 and went to work . I sealed everything . All holes and even those large quarter sized holes( those are from the factory from the mold) seal the cap underneath too. But first tape it using blue masking painters tape so you can get the cap sealed good. It's a dirty job. Have a wet rag handy. Seal everything ! Take your time because you only want to do this once. When you're finished sealing the cap, re drill holes and put new stainless screws in place. Use flat head screws so the rub rail fits back flush. Mark the screws in pencil so when you replace the rub rail, your not drilling into your screws. When you are installing all screws, use 5200 on each screw. I hate the three piece rail it came with, so I bought a new taco rail kit. ( 50 foot is plenty) It is 1 1/2 in thick. The rail was around 175.00. But worth it. ( if you choose to replace it) the three piece factory just never fit back right. Like I said, it's tedious work but the boat just went through 15 years of pounding, this should last another. You'll notice a more rigid feel and better ride. It's worth it! Hope this helps brother!


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## FishNCoach

zthomashome said:


> Pulled my rubrail off a few days ago to re-do my hull-to-deck joint and wanted to share what I found.
> 
> I haven't settled on how exactly I'm going to put it back together. Going back and forth between a methacrylate like Plexus (expensive, requires specialized tools, not sensitive to surface preparation, probably overkill) and a polyurethane like 5200 or Sikaflex 292 (easier to apply, cheaper, but requires good surface prep and might not be sufficient for filling and bonding areas with large gaps). At this point, I'm kind of leaning toward a combination: polyurethane in the areas without large gaps, methyl in the big gaps.
> 
> As I think I've mentioned, I pulled it apart in the first place because I was getting a lot of flexing from the bulkhead forward. It wasn't that noticeable in bigger chop, but in small "washboard" wind ripples, the bow deck visibly "jiggled" up and down when on plane. I discovered that was because for about the front three feet, the deck was completely loose from the hull; the screws had all broken out of their holes in the hull and the adhesive sealant had totally failed.
> 
> Looking forward to a more solid feeling boat once I get it all back together.
> 
> First look after removing rub rail
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Several of these quarter-sized holes with wet foam. Not sure what they are.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> All screws near bow were broken free from hull and had backed as far out as the rub rail would allow
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Deck offset substantially to port at bow.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Large gap (1/2" in places) along port bow and around starboard corner.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Overview after a bit of cleanup. Took out exactly 161 screws, not counting the ones holding the rub rail.


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## FishNCoach

Also ... The cap doesn't fit perfect.. Mine is exactly the same. Just 5200 the heck out of it. That's all you can really do. As for the non skid, mine is still good but yes it is a b#*?! to clean. I use toilet bowl cleaner and tilex and a brush to get it clean. Just take your time.. It's worth it.


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## SomaliPirate

Jesus, y'all are all braver than me. I was going to bite the bullet and take mine to somebody like Glasser at some point.


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## JMZ400

View attachment 2220


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## JMZ400

Got out in some saltwater finally today. This was the first of 3 Reds in a row. This was the smallest at 16 1/2 other 2 were 19 and 21. I hadn't caught a red since I was about 12 years old. Over all a great day. Several Jacks, and Spanish Mackerel as well. Thanks to those of you who shared your input on my skiff. It's truly helping me make memories.


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## zthomas

Nice work!

FishNCoach, thanks for the info. That's reassuring.

My main dilemma has been whether to use 5200 or Plexus (methyl methacrylate). My concerns with the 5200 are 1) that people have said it's not very good as a gap filler and can take forever to cure when it's applied thick, and 2) that even if it adheres well, it will be flexible enough that it will still allow more differential movement between hull and cap than I want.

I've got a couple of areas where the gap in the joint is literally half an inch. Self-tapping screws aren't worth much to secure it with that big a gap, so the adhesive will be a large point of the connection. It seems like it will be hard to get the 5200 stay up in there while it cures and not sag out of the joint. And also like there could be a fair amount of flex allowed by 1/2" thickness of 5200. Was your gap that large?

Don't get me wrong, I'd love to use the 5200 because it's simple and familiar and I'd be able to do it in my driveway this weekend.


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## zthomas

Forgot to mention, I also decided to go with new Taco rub rail and all new 316 SS screws.

FishNCoach, did you have yours upside down when you resealed it? If not, any tricks for keeping the uncured 5200 from sagging/dripping out of the joint?


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## devrep

if you can flip the boat over and caulk it you won't have to worry about the 5200 flexing much, its damn tough stuff once cured.


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## zthomas

For anyone who may be interested, I finally finished the hull-deck joint job last week and wet-tested the boat yesterday. It's still not the most rigid thing in the world, but it's a world better than it was. Not only more rigid, but noticeably quieter too.

I should have taken more pictures, but I did most of the work at night and by myself, so it didn't happen.

Basically, I removed all the old screws and used a knockoff Fein tool with a flexible scraper blade to get all the old sealant out. It's amazing how well that thing goes through 4200 and 5200.

Then I went around and checked every single screw hole for soundness with a hand-screwdriver. If it didn't hold a screw solidly, I marked it. Then I went back around with a little grinder tip on a Dremel and ground all the broken ones out. Then I cleaned them with acetone and then filled with West System Six10. Great stuff--very easy to use, and you can actually seal the tube up between uses. I also cleaned up and filled all the old holes from the rubrail screws.

Then I drilled and countersunk holes for new screws on either side of each of the old epoxied over holes.

Then I went back with a flat grinder blade on the oscillating tool and roughed up the inner surface of the joint everywhere it was wide enough that the blade would fit up into it. Then pushed foam backing rod up into the joint to keep the sealant from just squeezing out the top of the joint and into the hull. I used three difference sizes to match the various widths of the gap. It was far from perfect, but better than nothing, since it gave me something to "tool" the sealant against.

Then I did a final swabbing out with acetone, using a rag wrapped over the end of a narrow plastic putty knife.

I taped all the way around the hull piece, just below the edge of the cap, to keep the sealant off the hull. Then I started slowly working my around with 5200. I was worried that it would just sag back down out of the gap, but that turned out not to be an issue. It stayed in just fine. I'd load a three or four foot section with 5200, then install the new screws, then put on rubber gloves, wipe off the excess sealant, and push and smooth it up into the joint, just like running bead of caulk.

I got all the way around the boat that way in about three hours working my myself. It turned out to be much easier to do at night. During the day, with a bright sky, you can't see up into the joint very well even with a light. But at night, I was able to wear a headlamp and sit on the ground and see what I was doing pretty well. I'm fairly confident that a got a completely water-tight seal all the way around, and it actually came out looking surprisingly neat, considering I went through three whole caulking tubes worth of 5200.

As I said, the boat feels completely different on the water now.

I haven't put a new rub rail on yet because I'm going to go ahead and have the hull painted first.


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## JMZ400

Awesome! Thanks for the update


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## FishNCoach

Good job! A little perseverance and elbow grease and the job was done! Congratulations !!!


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## FishNCoach

Sorry I didn't reply about the sagging 5200.. You did it right ! That's exactly how I did it with no sagging .. Now go fishing!!!


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## JMZ400

Finally put him on his first fish today in Yankeetown. Wind kept us in close, but beautiful afternoon anyway.
View attachment 2975


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## zthomas

Awesome -- that's the stuff that matters.


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## JMZ400




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## zthomas

Looking great. I bet that was a bit of a sporty ride home after the second pic.

Hey, random question, but if you think of it, would you measure the fore-aft length of the Pathfinder decal on the side?

Also, what prop is that? Kind of looks like one of those heavy-cup SWC PowerTechs. Been thinking about swapping my SCB for one of those to see if I get a little more bit in turns.


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## SomaliPirate

I'm running a SCD4R on mine and it seems to hold pretty well in turns.


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## zthomas

Interesting. Do you have a 60? Asking because the 60 has a bigger gearcase than 50 and swings a bigger prop. My 50 takes an SCB, which is a 10-3/8" diameter prop. The SCD that fits the 60 is a 13" diameter. That might account for better grip in the turns.

Mine slides like a jet ski at speed. The SCB4 is better than the 3-blade I had before, but still slides a lot. Just finished putting on a Permatrim plate last night, and I'm hoping the vertical fins on that may give it a little more lateral stability.


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## SomaliPirate

zthomas said:


> Interesting. Do you have a 60? Asking because the 60 has a bigger gearcase than 50 and swings a bigger prop. My 50 takes an SCB, which is a 10-3/8" diameter prop. The SCD that fits the 60 is a 13" diameter. That might account for better grip in the turns.
> 
> Mine slides like a jet ski at speed. The SCB4 is better than the 3-blade I had before, but still slides a lot. Just finished putting on a Permatrim plate last night, and I'm hoping the vertical fins on that may give it a little more lateral stability.


I'm running a 60, which explains it. I wish I was running a 50. From what I understand there's little to no performance difference on this hull.


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## zthomas

Not much that I've seen. I top out around 32 loaded light, 30 going fishing, and pop out of the hole plenty fast. The 50 is about 40 lbs. lighter, which helps offset my 225 lbs. on the platform.


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## SomaliPirate

zthomas said:


> Not much that I've seen. I top out around 32 loaded light, 30 going fishing, and pop out of the hole plenty fast. The 50 is about 40 lbs. lighter, which helps offset my 225 lbs. on the platform.


I can hit 31 with two anglers, gear and a nice tailwind. I'd gladly trade 1mph for 40lbs! My holeshot is insane though, she jumps on plane instantly and can do it in about 12-14" (which I never attempt over grass).


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## fjmaverick

I get 35mph with 3 guys, 1/2 tank and gear.

Not going to fix all your problems but if you aren't running a cushion seat you need to do your back a favor. Easily the best upgrade Ive done.


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## JMZ400

Zach- I will take that measurement for you. Also the prop is a SWC. swc4r12p. I'd be happy to let you try it sometime. My in-laws live in Orlando. I could bring it along and meet up at a local lake if you like. Let me know.


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## AfterHours2

I'm in Orlando and have a extra Pathfinder decal if you need it to have duplicated. I got rid of my old 17t a while ago and just found it in my garage.


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## RigaRoo

AfterHours2 said:


> I'm in Orlando and have a extra Pathfinder decal if you need it to have duplicated. I got rid of my old 17t a while ago and just found it in my garage.


I'd take it


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## blackmagic1

fjmaverick said:


> I get 35mph with 3 guys, 1/2 tank and gear.
> 
> Not going to fix all your problems but if you aren't running a cushion seat you need to do your back a favor. Easily the best upgrade Ive done.


What prop.....and more importantly, where'd you get your cushions?


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## fjmaverick

blackmagic1 said:


> What prop.....and more importantly, where'd you get your cushions?


I had romanos canvas do the cushion. He used some new foam he had to special order but its supposed to be more water resistant and a bit firmer.

This is the prop. Its on an f70 though


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## hawkman

I love this thread b/c it opened my eyes up to the possibility that I am having a separation of cap and hull in my 17T. I've been assuming I have stringer issues. As you experienced, my hull is noisy on light chop or even just in calm water with the slightest of swell. If I'm running in anything that causes my bow to lift and come back down on the water, I hear what I can only describe as a "double thump" - the thump of the hull hitting the water should be the only one I hear but it seems there's a second hit. I'm literally worried my boat will break apart someday even though it _appears fine._ 

Do you have experience with this type of work? You tackled it like you knew what you were doing. Even if I started this, I'd have so many friggin questions, you guys would throw me off the forum. 

How long do you think it would take if you tackled the cap-separation issue from start to finish, not including ordering materials? A weekend? Any idea on the cost of materials? I'd be interested in knowing.


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