# Jack Plates and River Hawks



## Guest (Jan 24, 2012)

Bob's Machine Shop has a manual ultra narrow that most go with.


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## zeneb (Jun 20, 2011)

164.00 is a bunch of money for three pieces of aluminum and some screws. There can't be 50.00 in materials. Do people sell them used at all or am I just wishing.

Hooching


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

Do without, shim it higher


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## zeneb (Jun 20, 2011)

> Do without, shim it higher


I thought about that. I can get a 2X2X1/4 inch square tube for 30.00. Two bolts to screw it to the top of the transom plate and go. I didn't know if there would be too much torque on it though. Mind you the MAX motor I'd put on that boat is a 9.9 and likely right now I'll stick with the 8. I'm thinking 2" will bring me right where I need to be assuming I can do so with little risk. I wonder why they don't make a slip on cap that can lift it. Allow the motor weight and screw tension to keep it on.

Hooching


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

As long as the clamps are biting reinforced transom, shim up to test height.
Worked for me...


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## PLANKTON7 (Jun 14, 2011)

thats a killer idea.....just dont shim the motor off.....


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

> just don't shim the motor off.....


And make sure the engine safety tie down is properly secured.
Really don't want the outboard going for a swim.


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## The_Skiff_Shop (Oct 28, 2008)

> It appears that I'm going to need to apply a jack Plate to my new River Hawk if I want to utilize it to it's fullest.  There is some pretty skinny water between me and some good fishing and I don't know if I can make it even at WOT.
> 
> I'm not looking to set this thing up so skinny that I'm floating in in 5" of water, but I did want to know what the optimal setup is.  Word on the street is that you should set your motor so the cavitation plate is 1" above the bottom line of the boat is that the rule of thumb?
> 
> ...


If the price of a Bob's bothers you, stop now.  A jack plate is roughly half the cost to make it all work.

The setup below gives you an idea but still requires propping to optimize the use of the jack plate. 










From reading the above, shim the motor till it starts to ventilate, drop back down 1/2" and test again.  If all is good, bolt the motor to the transom.


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## zeneb (Jun 20, 2011)

> If the price of a Bob's bothers you, stop now.  A jack plate is roughly half the cost to make it all work.
> 
> The setup below gives you an idea but still requires propping to optimize the use of the jack plate.


What's the extra cost? Looks like you have added a foil on there. Did you replace the prop too? I was already thinking of adding a foil so that's a cost that I've already got in my budget.

Hooching


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## zeneb (Jun 20, 2011)

> As long as the clamps are biting reinforced transom, shim up to test height.
> Worked for me...


Looks like I can shim it up about 3/4 of an inch before I'm loosing grip with the clamps. I'm sure we'd all like an extra 3/4 of an inch, but it's not going to do that much for me in this application.

Any physic's geeks on here know how much torque is applied by my motor at WOT? If I get a 1.75X2" aluminum square pipe I can bolt it onto the existing transom plate pretty easily. Some high quality metal epoxy and a couple of bolts could do the trick. Just thinking out loud. 

There is also this http://www.basspro.com/MiniJacker-for-Clampon-Outboards/product/8782/122143 , for 85.00 which I could do, but it would be a real pain to adjust while I tried to figure out the correct depth. 

Maybe I can convince the COE to dredge out that one trouble spot for me. I'm sure the other boaters would be happy too.

Hooching


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

You could always build up the transom with core material and fiberglass... :-?

Or do a bolt on transom riser fabricated from 1-1/2 inch thick plywood.

http://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1326410598

or just tilt it to shallow water drive and sputter across...


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## zeneb (Jun 20, 2011)

> You could always build up the transom with core material and fiberglass... :-?
> 
> Or do a bolt on transom riser fabricated from 1-1/2 inch thick plywood.
> 
> ...


I could do something like that. I had a regular transom plate put on it so I've got to work around that. I think option C is what I'll end up doing for now. There's just one spot on the river that's REALLY skinny and I think I need 10-11" to clear it and I'm riding 12-14" depending on how high I can get at WOT.


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## swampfox (May 9, 2007)

Get some heavy angle aluminium and some SS bolts. Cut 4 piecas bolt 2 of them together. Then bolt the 2 assemblies to the boat. Then bolt on your motor. It gives you a few inches of set back and you can set the hieght you like. Both of which allow you to run shallower. And since your are cheap like me. The best thing is the price $25 or so.


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## zeneb (Jun 20, 2011)

> Get some heavy angle aluminium and some SS bolts. Cut 4 piecas bolt 2 of them together. Then bolt the 2 assemblies to the boat. Then bolt on your motor. It gives you a few inches of set back and you can set the hieght you like. Both of which allow you to run shallower. And since your are cheap like me. The best thing is the price $25 or so.


Frugal man... It's called being frugal. Seriously, why does anything related to fishing or boating have to cost 2X what it's functional equivalent is in any other sport. I can get a top end hiking staff for 80.00, but a wading staff is 120.00. Want an aluminum stool for your house? 100.00. Want one for your boat? 500.00. It's nuts. I've priced angle aluminum and you're right it is 25.00 in parts. I have a company in Atlanta so I can just go and pick it up.

Hooching


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## jmm (Jan 20, 2012)

so go buy some aluminum weld it up drill it out and there you go! Really your stunned that boating gear is expensive...cough up the bucks and you wont look back, literally. hope my motor is still there!


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## Flyline (Mar 3, 2008)

Built yourself a homemade jackplate for 75 bucks....ezpz.


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## swampfox (May 9, 2007)

Yep thats what I was talking about. I knew some one on here had a setup like that.


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## zeneb (Jun 20, 2011)

Put this together last night and attached the motor.  Wood is a 2X4 that I ripped to 1.75 to match the existing transom plate.  The metal is 1/8X9X9 that came off of the old seats. I have one through bolt and 4 wood screws in it now. If I like it, I'll pick up some more bolts and do three through bolts. I only had one available and didn't want to go to the store.

That pulled the cavitation plate just about even with the bottom of the boat.  I tested the motor and it's fits tight against the transom.  It might move but I'm thinking I'd have to hit something pretty hard for it to do so.  I'll shim it up some more if needed.  Not bad for an hour of work and some spare parts in my basement.

Hooching


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## cmtullis (May 13, 2010)

Not too shabby! That's a nice transom extension. You don't have to worry about too much offset/backset either, like you would with a typical jack plate attached to the transom.

Now I'm _really_ excited about getting out on the 'Hooch tomorrow and seeing how you run! I believe you'll make it up past "Firewalk" and on to McGinnis Ferry and Shakerag pretty easily with that set up!

(_Please_ bring some of that BBQ with you tomorrow!)


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## zeneb (Jun 20, 2011)

Well, the new extension did very well today. I ran her WOT and she was just floating on the water. One of the guys running with me paced me and said I was getting every bit of 19 MPH. I made it through some very skinny water and didn't hit a thing. Hopefully I'll get some video soon so you guys can see it.

DD F


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## cmtullis (May 13, 2010)

Four videos of Hooching and Jakal03 tailin' mah LT-15 an' a-tryin' to shoot me outta the water on the 'Hooch. We'll try an' git some real good footage next time, an' mebbe we'll jes' git Rooster to join us also too!

http://s399.photobucket.com/albums/pp80/cmtullis/Chattahoochee%20River%202012/?action=view&current=P1290134.mp4

http://s399.photobucket.com/albums/pp80/cmtullis/Chattahoochee%20River%202012/?action=view&current=P1290133.mp4

http://s399.photobucket.com/albums/pp80/cmtullis/Chattahoochee%20River%202012/?action=view&current=P1290132.mp4

http://s399.photobucket.com/albums/pp80/cmtullis/Chattahoochee%20River%202012/?action=view&current=P1290131.mp4

Hooching on the 'Hooch at McGinnis Ferry:










Jakal03 an' Hooching jes' downstream from McGinnis Ferry Bridge by the fast water at the rocks:


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## Rooster (Mar 13, 2011)

Lord - I've had my Mexican food and the "big" Blue Moon and this is still scaren H out of me! I've got to measure how much motor I've got stickin down there, I think, before following you guys. The Sluice has soft bottom and few rocks maybe I'll have to borrow your Flaggon (you keep the snake)!


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## zeneb (Jun 20, 2011)

It took a couple of hits off of Swamp Angel's flask and a good bit of trust to haul WOT down the river, but we did great.  Here's a short vid that I cut on the way up.

http://s91.photobucket.com/albums/k312/BufordCityDawg/?action=view&current=IMGP1000.mp4


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## Rooster (Mar 13, 2011)

I'll take the "big" flagon... I can hear those skinny mounts running...


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## cmtullis (May 13, 2010)

Hoochin: I'm a-stealin' yer movin' pitcher an' addin' it in mah own pitcherpail account.

Rooster: Jes' how big of a flagon shall I bring with me on the next excursion? (I'll live the little ol' snake at home 'til the weather warms up a bit.)


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## Rooster (Mar 13, 2011)

The skinnier the water - the bigger the flagon...


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## cmtullis (May 13, 2010)

> The skinnier the water - the bigger the flagon...



If the Buford Dam flow is below 6 mW/hr I'll bring the "1.75litre" flask!


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## ducktrooper (May 6, 2008)

Do you have or use a prop/skeg protector? I fish tailwaters in AR and they come in handy.


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## zeneb (Jun 20, 2011)

> Do you have or use a prop/skeg protector? I fish tailwaters in AR and they come in handy.


I'm considering it. I think Jakal has one on his. I've got a 6 horse in the basement. Think I may trade that and the 8 in for a newer 9.9 or even a 15 and then add the hydrofoil and the skeg guard. I hear that you can lose power as you add this stuff to the motor due to extra drag.

Hooching


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## cmtullis (May 13, 2010)

> Do you have or use a prop/skeg protector? I fish tailwaters in AR and they come in handy.



Jakal03 has one for sure. It may cost him 3 or 4 knots of speed, but that's worth it when you consider the possobility of wrecking a lower unit. 

I don't have one currently, but I'm seriously considering it. I've been lucky thus far and I'm beginning to get worried that I'm pushing my luck on the 'Hooch.

Speed is lotsa fun, but that fun is quickly forgotten when you need to spend s few hundred bucks to replace a lower unit because you didn't have a skeg protector!


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## Rooster (Mar 13, 2011)

I've finally figured my future role in all of this (esp. with all this talk about wrecking lower units...). I "putt" along behind and pick up the pieces, and administer remedies from the large flagon!


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## cmtullis (May 13, 2010)

Rooster, from what I've seen regardin' the spec's on your vessel, you ought to be able to run shallower than us! According to the official website:

_The River Master 16 provides the serious angler with a powerful tool to fish from tailwater to tidewater and everything in between. With a dry weight as little as 195 lbs, it's easy to tow, easy to launch and light enough to drag down a rocky bank where river access is limited yet only drafts 3 - 4" fully loaded._

Heck, my LT15 has a 4 to 5 inch draft! You'll do jes' fine. Besides, we do tend to take it a bit slower in the skinny places right now so everybody can look down and see exactly where the channel runs and then stay over top of it. Later on when summer time gets here, we'll start making runs through the skinny stuff at WOT when everone is more comfortable with knowing what their respective crafts' abilities and limitations are.

I have a feeling that you'll be pleasantly surprised with where all you can go.  (However, you can rest assured that as long as you've got the large flagon on _your_ boat I won't be straying far from you!)


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## Rooster (Mar 13, 2011)

Certainly will give it a try! I'm not sure about the 3-4" fully loaded stuff, but the boat itself is _shallow_ - but no jack plate like you guys so I will have more hanging down ( I won't make the obvious joke...). Just ordered a tiller extension and a "Sissy Stick", so you may look back there & see me and think I am someone runnin my gator line like on Swamp People... GLAD we're not Carpin today - windy & 34 degrees - that'll freeze your hands right to the flagon!


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