# 14 foot Johnsen/Mitchell type skiff build



## Guest (May 20, 2018)

Alright Jacques, time to get to work on that thing amd get some practice in. Don’t forget the respirator while doing all that sandin! You’ll thank me in 20yrs.


----------



## jacques lemaire (Apr 17, 2018)

I have a good respirator! I’m getting some tyvex suits as well. Can’t stand the fiberglass itch. I plan to coat the bottom with graphite epoxy once it’s all faired and sanded. And coat above the water line with 2 part raptor liner. It’s a bed liner that will be sprayed on and it’s tintable


----------



## jacques lemaire (Apr 17, 2018)

I also am redoing a 2000 Honda 15 hp outboard that I picked up. Sanded the cowl down and faired it as well today. I will sand and fair it again tomorrow I’m using total boat epoxy fairing Compound. So far I like the product. It’s ready to use and sands nicely


----------



## Guest (May 20, 2018)

Cool, I’ve used the raptor before. It’s good stuff


----------



## jacques lemaire (Apr 17, 2018)

Is there anything els I should do to the cracks in the gel coat before paint besides sanding and faring them ?


----------



## jacques lemaire (Apr 17, 2018)

This is what I’m taking about


----------



## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

If you paint that bow area with the cracks, the cracks will show thru. Also, why not sand and use gel coat instead of paint (since that's what on there now)?


----------



## jacques lemaire (Apr 17, 2018)

I don’t want to buy a gun to spray gel coat. I plan to graphite epoxy the bottom and paint the hull with a 2 part paint


----------



## Guest (May 24, 2018)

Jacques, Yobata is dead on with the cracks showing through. You could use a high build primer but the cracks will eventually show again. The glass needs reinforce a little where you are seing cracks. You can buy a cheap gun with 3.0 or 2.5 nozzle/cap for around $25-$30 on flea bay. In the long run gelcoat would be cheaper/easier than trying to make the paint look good. You can still epoxy/ graphite the bottom if you choose as well.


----------



## Guest (May 24, 2018)

You can also buy brushable gel and apply it carefully, then wetsand and buff.


----------



## jacques lemaire (Apr 17, 2018)

Oh I didn’t know I could buy a gun that cheap. I was under the impression that they all cost over 100 bucks. I also thought that I wouldn’t get even surface with gel coat. I though the only way to get gel coat to look nice was to use it in a mold. I might do this then


----------



## Guest (May 24, 2018)

I like the cheap guns for gelcoat, if there is a mishap and gel kicks on you you can toss the gun and buy another. You will get orange peel with gel coat! Throw some duratec in it and lay down about 22-24 mils split into 3 coats then wetsand and buff using a guide coat powder, pencil, ect.. is a longboard sander “a cheap one from harbor freight will do” wet sand from 320 increasing to 600 then hit with a wool pad and some compound.


----------



## jacques lemaire (Apr 17, 2018)

What would be stronger. A 18 oz woven roven or 1700 biaxle fabric. I’m thinking I should bulk up some areas in the hull where there are lots of old cracks and it seems thin. Just need to know that would be best to do this.


----------



## Guest (Jun 5, 2018)

I’d use the biax! -45/+45, I only use woven in a bulking situation anymore. The orientation of fibers in the 1700 will be better for what you are doing without adding a bunch of weight. You can probably drop down to a 1200 wt material to reinforce the exhisting layup and keep it light.


----------



## jacques lemaire (Apr 17, 2018)

Today I finished grinding all the cracked gel coat and fairing it with epoxy. I did 2 coats of graphite epoxy to the bottom and will probably do another 2 coats at 12 oz of epoxy per coat with about 3 oz of graphite mixed in. 

I am looking for some advice on mixing epoxy and not wasting the mixing containers my current method is pouring part a and part b separately to get an accurate measure then pouring the hardener in to the part b container. And after I’m done I throw the container away but there about 1.30 each and i was wondering if there is a better way to do this or not?


----------



## jacques lemaire (Apr 17, 2018)

I also keep getting little dimples in the graphit epoxy. How do I get a even coating with the epoxy ? I’m using a foam roller and a tip method


----------



## Indoman (Jul 25, 2013)

How’d you prep the surface before rolling it on? Not an expert here, but it looks the hull might have been “greasy” or not completely clean? I know oily residue will cause pitting with paint. Scrubbed and thoroughly wiped down with acetone, then made sure it was dry?


----------



## Guest (Jun 23, 2018)

Appears to be fisheyed to me, when you wipe down the surface prior to paint you want to go through a lot of rags. I spray a little wax and grease remover or acetone and wipe one direction, spray another area flip rag and wipe, repeat several times until a clean rag stays clean after wiping the do one more time for gp.


----------



## jacques lemaire (Apr 17, 2018)

Yeah it’s fish eyes bad. I sanded it down just enough to flatten the surface out again and will have to do some more coats with the acetone and wipe it down really good. I thought I wiped it down pretty good with a few rags but I didn’t use any solution like you recommended. Lesson learned!


----------



## Guest (Jun 23, 2018)

Keep pluggin, you’ll get it. These little lessons can be costly at times but you won’t make that mistake again. College isn’t cheap so consider these lessons money spent on education!


----------



## PropGunOne (May 27, 2018)

What’s your mix ratio? If it’s 2:1 the easy way to do it is get a bunch of disposable plastic cups. Put some water in one cup and use a sharpie to draw a line. Then pour that water into the second cup. Now refill the first cup to the line you drew, making it level with the line, and dump that water into cup two as well. Now draw a line where the water is at in the second cup. Easy 2:1 ratio and don’t have to worry about using X amount of epoxy every time.

Works with any ratio, but above maybe 3:1 the margin of error can start to increase.


----------



## jacques lemaire (Apr 17, 2018)

My ratio is 2:1 I’m gonna try doing that! Thanks


----------



## jacques lemaire (Apr 17, 2018)

Well I redid it today and it’s safe to say that prep work is the most important part. Now I have an awesome looking hull bottom next I will be flipping it over and cutting the seats out. That’s not going to be fun at all


----------



## Guest (Jun 24, 2018)

Much better! Prep prep prep!


----------



## jacques lemaire (Apr 17, 2018)

build bench seat making it really hard to remove


----------



## jacques lemaire (Apr 17, 2018)

Today I spent the day cutting and grinding out the seats and making them flush with the floor. It was so hot outside the road in front of my house buckled..

I am concerned about the hull thickness as it seems like there is only a layer of CSM and then a layer of 18-24 oz woven roven on the hull. I bought some 45/45 biaxle that I will be laying in the hull from bow to stern but I feel like this still isn’t enough. I have tons of 6oz Matt. I know this isn’t structural but I was thinking about laying it over the biaxle to add some bulk.

I will be putting in stringer and a floor in the boat along with 2 or 3 bulk heads. I haven’t gotten that far yet but I’m planning ahead as for that I’m gonna do to make it nice and strong

Thoughts and recommendations on the hull problem are incoraged thanks! Maybe the one layer of biaxle is enough with the floor I’ll be adding.


----------



## Guest (Jun 25, 2018)

jacques lemaire said:


> Today I spent the day cutting and grinding out the seats and making them flush with the floor. It was so hot outside the road in front of my house buckled..
> 
> I am concerned about the hull thickness as it seems like there is only a layer of CSM and then a layer of 18-24 oz woven roven on the hull. I bought some 45/45 biaxle that I will be laying in the hull from bow to stern but I feel like this still isn’t enough. I have tons of 6oz Matt. I know this isn’t structural but I was thinking about laying it over the biaxle to add some bulk.
> 
> I will be putting in stringer and a floor in the boat along with 2 or 3 bulk heads. I haven’t gotten that far yet but I’m planning ahead as for that I’m gonna do to make it nice and strong


Carefull adding a bunch of glass to it. If you are adding stringers tie them in with the biax. One of the most common rookie mistakes is inderestimating the strength of a fiberglass composite and building a heavy heavy boat. Most of the smaller skiffs are built exactly the way you described yours.


----------



## jacques lemaire (Apr 17, 2018)

Been putting some work in this week I finished sanding down the inside and layed a layer of biaxle in the hull for good measure because I sanded it down a good bit. Today I started making templets for my bulk heads and sole
I’m thinking that I’m going to use marantie ply for the build 
I’m also testing out using XPS foam to make a surface to lay fiberglass over so I can form the rub rails. bellow is an example of what I’m talking about. The glass would be the structural part here.


----------



## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

jacques lemaire said:


> Been putting some work in this week I finished sanding down the inside and layed a layer of biaxle in the hull for good measure because I sanded it down a good bit. Today I started making templets for my bulk heads and sole
> I’m thinking that I’m going to use marantie ply for the build
> I’m also testing out using XPS foam to make a surface to lay fiberglass over so I can form the rub rails. bellow is an example of what I’m talking about. The glass would be the structural part here.


For the rubrail part, what is the plan there? If I am reading your post correctly, you are using the foam as a form for your rubrail. That looks like a cool idea! This might give you to opportunity to shave down some of the 4 layers of foam as you go closer to the hull, making an almost v shape. There are some examples of current production boats that have this look. Something like this: 









The idea here is that it helps knock down spray.

Also, it looks like you are trying to use biax to test your rubrail. It may be difficult to work on this part this way, maybe just you a smaller woven cloth like 6 or 10oz??


----------



## jacques lemaire (Apr 17, 2018)

yes I used some biax just to test the strength of the foam and boy is it strong ( it was a little hard to form it around the sharp corners) . I cant break it no mater what i hit it with except for very sharp objects but I would be fine if i hit a dock with it. it will even hold a wood screw with one layer. Home Depot sells the thicker stuff like this and I have given thought to that spray rail like in the picture above. The plan was to just have a traditional rub rail like what was there in the first place (the one on the boat originally was starting to crack off so I cut some of it off ) 

Im going to also use the foam as a form to make stringers for my false floor supports since it will cut back on some weight, I might do a little bit of both wood and the foam in the hull with some biax to strengthing the foam. my test gave me the confidence that it's every bit strong enough to support the weight of the floor while also stopping the flex of the hull. i don't really see a negative in this or a reason why not to use the foam instead of wood for the stringers.


----------



## jacques lemaire (Apr 17, 2018)

yobata said:


> For the rubrail part, what is the plan there? If I am reading your post correctly, you are using the foam as a form for your rubrail. That looks like a cool idea! This might give you to opportunity to shave down some of the 4 layers of foam as you go closer to the hull, making an almost v shape. There are some examples of current production boats that have this look. Something like this:
> 
> 
> 
> ...




I like this idea a lot and I am contemplating how it would work on my skiff with the pre-existing lines. I'm worried that it might not flow with the hull. There are a few ways I could shape the foam to make the front deck flare out and if I did do this i would keep that v shape all the way to the transom but have it wider in the bow to act as a spray rail and meet with the first line i have in my hull


----------



## jacques lemaire (Apr 17, 2018)

It’s hard to get a good idea of what it would look like with out actually doing it but I think I could pull it off.


----------



## jacques lemaire (Apr 17, 2018)

Iv made some progress in the last week since I finally got my plywood. My bulk heads are set and glassed in and today I poured some foam in the bow where my storage will be and glasses in some stingers for the floor


----------



## Guest (Jul 15, 2018)

I like progress! Lookin good!


----------



## jacques lemaire (Apr 17, 2018)

Today I got the storage floor and mid section decks glued down and started building the cap frame. It’s starting to come together and it’s looking good.


----------



## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Maybe add another support from the one in the middle of the front deck to the bow? (Depending on what thickness your deck material will be)


----------



## jacques lemaire (Apr 17, 2018)

yobata said:


> Maybe add another support from the one in the middle of the front deck to the bow? (Depending on what thickness your deck material will be)


I will probably add 2 more support beams in to the front I just haven’t gotten there yet. I’m
Using 3/8th ply and I want to support it every foot/foot and a half so I can jump around up there haha


----------



## jacques lemaire (Apr 17, 2018)

Also forgot to mention that I will have about 4 gallons on flotation foam in the boat. I ordered a 2 gallon kit from boatbuilders central and it arrived empty due to ups, but they where quick to fix the problem and sent me a replacement kit with an extra kit.


----------



## jacques lemaire (Apr 17, 2018)

More work put in on the skiff between fishing and working but good progress. I have all my deck parts cut to fit and I’m working on the hatches right now which is very time consuming but will be worth the effort in the end. I made my hatch gutters out of Cyprus 2x4s and routed the gutter out. It’s a process taken from seapro17sv on this sight. Just hoping mine turn out as good as his did


----------



## jacques lemaire (Apr 17, 2018)

Here’s a little picture of the brake I had from working on the skiff last weekend. 2 day fishing trip with Lots of trout to be caught in grand isle Louisiana where I mainly fish


----------



## Guest (Jul 27, 2018)

She’s gettin there!


----------



## jacques lemaire (Apr 17, 2018)

Haven’t made a post in a while but I have got a lot done this month. All I have left to do is fiberglass the deck in, fair and then paint for the most part. I couldn’t wait to see how she floated and what kinda draft I would have so I went and put her in the water with 180 pounds in the transom to act as a motor and I am drafting 6 inches with me standing on the back deck. 

Very pleased with how it all turned out and the added stability that I have gained from more weight to the hull.


----------



## Guest (Aug 24, 2018)

Looks pretty good to me so far dude! I was just thinking, man I hooe this isn’t gonna ve a dead wnd thread! Nice work!


----------



## jacques lemaire (Apr 17, 2018)

College started back up so my free time is spread far and then at the moment unfortunately, but I’m hoping to paint next week if the weather allows me.


----------



## jacques lemaire (Apr 17, 2018)

Been a while since my last post but I have just about completed the build. I sprayed the hull last weekend and started spraying the deck and ran out of paint so I ordered some kiwi grip to paint the non skid instead of using the raptor liner with texture added 

Also got my rub rail bent around the boat which wasn’t easy and fiberglassed over everything then lots of fairing and sanding. 5 months later and I am just about ready to launch her with the new motor which will be a 4 stroke Yamaha 25 hp


----------



## Guest (Oct 17, 2018)

Looks good


----------



## jacques lemaire (Apr 17, 2018)

Well the kiwi grip rolled on very nicely and all I have left to do is run electrical wires and rig it out.


----------



## Guest (Oct 20, 2018)

Looks very nice, great job!


----------

