# Continuation of a Flats Stalker



## gillz (May 20, 2007)

A quick update; I cleaned up the rust off the trailer painted it, flipped the axle on top, replaced one bearing, and set up the bunks.







As far as the hull, I decided to trim down the shear a bit. So far I trimmed it 1 1/2 inches all around, but I'm thinking about taking another 1 1/2 inches down at the back, to nothing at the bow.









Now it's in the garage and I can hopefully make more progress on the hull.


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## Swamp (Jul 12, 2010)

Still kicking myself for not jumping on this. Congrats and good luck on the build.

Swamp


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

Thanks! It was an awesome deal. I just realized today that the chine was rounded out at the bow for the "zero slap hull" option.  Thanks Scott !


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## ghstdanc (Jul 15, 2008)

You're more that welcome! That trimmed down shear line looks good.


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## disporks (Jan 19, 2011)

reminds me a whole lot of my build...just alot bigger. Cant wait to see it finished as I have been thinking about how cool it would be to add about 5 ft onto the boat im building and a little more beam.


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

yeah me too..I had planned to build a smaller boat, but Im glad this oppurtunity presented itself. It should make fishing further around the Flamingo area more comfortable. 
I had some 16lb foam from my original plans, which I was going to build a transom out of, so I decided it would be a good idea to put down some of it before I put down the 2lb flotation foam under the sole. The 16lb foam sets hard as a rock, so I think it should help a little structurally and with sound dampening.


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

Picked up a 25hp Merc remote, but I want to find a tiller handle for it. Anyone have one laying around


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## SilentHunter (Jun 14, 2010)

ive got a 93 all in 1 tiller on my merc 25.

do you have all the remote stuff? binnicle and cables?


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

I don't have everything to make yours complete. I have an old side mount shifter, a steering cable, and the cable arm. I could put cash in also.


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

Got a chance to do some work today;
Put in a drain from the forward compartment to the bilge.








Roughed in the fuel tank. (18 gallon aluminum)








and started placing some tubing for wiring. I foamed in this area with 2lb foam also.


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

I've been working an hour here and there for the last two weeks. 
Put in the sole supports, chase tubes, and poured all the foam. Need to trim it down;








Finished triming the hull shear to where I want it. I was debating whether to trim it down further, but since Im using a short shaft, I'll need a 15" transom so the final trim from the original plans are 1.5" at the bow and 3" at the stern. 
Before:








After:









I also trimmed the bulkheads with a 1/4" camber to add a little strength and positive drainage to the decks.


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

Slowly but surely making progress. The fuel tank supports and the bow deck framing are roughed in;









Layed out and cut the transom to 17 1/2". 









This puts the cavitation plate 1/2" above the bottom. I'm thinking I'll have to trim it down, but I'll see how it runs like this. Later I'll be looking to install a mini-jack plate. For now keeping it simple


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## oysterbreath (Jan 13, 2009)

Hey, what's that lil white tray thinggy for that you have recessed into your sole foam?


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

Those are thin plastic containers we throw away at work. I used them to create a space in the foam under the grab bar or mini console and under the battery switch to more easily feed wiring and kinda like a junction box. They are too flimsy to hold the foam back so I filled them with water and froze them into a block then put them in place right before I poured the foam. It worked, there is cavity in the foam now shaped like the container. The pop right out, but I think I'm gonna leave them in.


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## disporks (Jan 19, 2011)

I didnt notice the plastic box, Great idea!


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

Thanks Dispo. 
I found this  "new" fiberglass lid on EBay. 








It should be here in a few days. I'll be able to start the rear deck framing once it does.
In the mean time I used the Portion of transom I trimmed to make a support for the poling platform, rear deck and splashwell.








Here is the poling platform. 








The leg on the far side is how I bought it off CG. The near side is the work in progress. The tricky part will be to get the angles right for the feet. 
So far I picked up the trailer, motor, fuel tank, and poling platform from CG. How's the S.S. Craigslist sound  .


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## Mally380 (Nov 6, 2012)

Hello,
I am new to this forum and have been watching your progress since you took this project on. I am quite interested as I have just begun building one of my own. Yours looks like it is coming along quite nicely. This was the hull that was in The Keys, correct? Keep up the good work. Greg


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

Hello Capt. 
Thanks, yeah this is the one that was down in Key Largo. Congrats on the start of yours  [smiley=1-thumbsup3.gif] There's a lot of good inspiration, knowledge to be found here. Check out Capt Sonnen's build if you haven't already. 
http://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1298949893


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

So I'm trying to get out of this building funk I've been in. Since my last post I've cut and fit the sole and the rear deck. Ill post some pics tomorrow. I'm trying to settle on the rod holders/gunnel supports. Here's what I think I'm going with;









It not really ideal, but since I'm using pine it wont support enough weight to have a slot to put rods in/out. The alternative would be thicker hardwood to support the load so I can put a slot to put rods in and out easier, but more $.


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

Here are the updates;


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

Don't beat yourself up. Progress comes in fits and starts. I have learned to not give time estimates because I've made about 20 or 30 over the course of my build and been wrong everytime for one reason or another.

Nate


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

Thanks Nate , for the words of wisdom and encouragement.


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

Started on the grab bar. Set up a jig.









Heat some sand.









Tried to use pvc water pipe but its too flimsy and it buckled







. If it was symetric it would have been cool since it kinda looks like the grip of a steering wheel. 
Got some schedule 40 and tried again. Its not perfect but much better. It would haved helped to have about 6 more hands









I was thinking about laminating a carbon fiber sleeve over top to add strengh. Soller composites sells treated heat shrink which leaves a smooth finish without sanding. I'm thinking about making my own push pole with thier products.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Cap one end, fill it with sand, cap the other, heat it and it will stay round.


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## mattpike77 (Mar 23, 2010)

I've been thinking about doing the same thing for a grab bar. How are you going to attach it? I haven't figured out anything I'm happy with yet.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Someone on here use a hand truck/cart to make one that turned out well.


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

> Cap one end, fill it with sand, cap the other, heat it and it will stay round.


Yep, that's how I did it. You really need at least one more person to handle it when it starts to get soft. You get about 2 mins of work time before it starts to stiffen up again.



> Someone on here use a hand truck/cart to make one that turned out well.


I considered using a handle from my generator cart, but its heavy and poor grade steel/metal and it would rust quickly.


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

> I've been thinking about doing the same thing for a grab bar. How are you going to attach it? I haven't figured out anything I'm happy with yet.


I'm not completely sure myself :-?. I have to decide whether to place it in the center or offset where one leg of the bar is on/next to the gunnel. I've seen someone on here use this type of fiberglass flange that is used for pipes, but not sure on the cost or where to get it.


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

I almost spent $60 on the stuff for laminating the carbon fiber skeeve over top the pvc, but reconsidered. I had saved a little 16lb foam which is super hard, so I used that instead to fill the pvc and add strenght and rigidity. The top 1/4 is filled with sand top keep the foam out and theres a 1/2" pipe in each leg to allow wires to be pulled and a cord to pull wires.








Also started working on the rubrail. I used a hand rail from Home Depot and ripped to get two half rounds. These are going to be stained mohagany and epoxy coated. It should look good with the yellow hull.


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

I'm in a holding pattern due to budget :-/. Been working on the nav lights though. In the spirit of simplicity, I dont plan on having a battery,  but I occasionally like to get out a little before sunrise. So, Im going to do my best to keep within the regs using leds and 23a 12v batteries. So far I built the anchor light.









The tilt switch turns it on in the up position and off while down
According to Ozonium.com I should get 6 to 8 hrs on 1 battery, which should be fine for the little use it will get.
Not sure how to post the video. I tried a couple thing but cant get it to work. This link should open it.

http://s1154.photobucket.com/albums/p524/rnbsnls/?action=view&current=20130425_140001_zpscb933459.mp4


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

Change 1, 600, 347 give or take ,  the boat will have a battery and TM. My thinking lately is to finish out the boat the way I want it and I'll be content with rather than trying to get it done faster. Since my last post I coated the aluminum tank with a flexible coating to help prevent pitting and leaking, I am almost done with the carbon fiber grab bar, and the hull should be done with fairing and primer on Thursday.  I feel a little guilty, because I had a local fiberglass guy do that for me, but he'll be able to do a better job than I will. I also bought nida core for the decks. I know, I know but it does work well for flat mainly non structural panels, it saves wieght over plywood and won't rot, and I got Iit at a really good price from a local wholesaler.








I added a bit of jewelry to the grab bar,  to make it unique and I still have to add a shelf. I redid it in a smaller diameter and I think this one is more symmetrical and has a better feel to hold on to. I'm waiting to install the shelf before I do the gloss coat, thats why it looks dull in the pic.


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## oysterbreath (Jan 13, 2009)

That's an impressive grab bar!
How did you do the cross bar?


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

Thanks OB, I made the crossbar first then wrapped it like a butt wrap on a fishing rod. I wanted the carbon fiber to show through so I kept the thread-work minimal. I coated it with the same epoxy I use for building rods, since I wasn't sure if regular epoxy would work as well. After the grab bar was laid up but still wet, I just spread it and placed it in the holes I had predrilled. The feet were the tricky part. I used Tupperware type containers with lids, flipped them over and made a hole on the bottom to place the bar ends in. While it was still wet also, I suspended it with cord from the garage ceiling just barely off the inside of bottom of the Tupperware molds and filled the molds with graphite/epoxy. There is also 1/4 holes drilled at at the ends so the epoxy would run through and create a "one piece part" with the carbon sleeve. If you decide on a grab bar for yours and want some help I'd be happy to help out. I learned a lot about working with sleeve and shrink tubing. It was a lot trickier than I initially thought. The CF tiller extension should go a little smoother .


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

Picked up the faired and primered hull this morning  ;D ;D


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## oysterbreath (Jan 13, 2009)

Ohhhhhh man that hull looks real good being all dressed with primer! When you first picked up that hull it was looking a bit weathered but you turned her around nicely!


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

Thanks OB.
A quick update; I got the nidacore decks and sole laminate (not installed yet). The dark spots are marine ply inserts for holding hardware, poling platform feet, and the trolling motor mount.


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## cutrunner (Jun 8, 2010)

Moving right along now.
Once the boat gets flipped over and on the trailer it looks so much more lime a boat then when its upside down.
I like where your going with this.
Any idea on the weight?
I think you did the right thing using the nidacore. Its really going to cut down on weight vs wood


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

Thanks CR..right now it weighs about 250. The hull should be under 300 and dry wieght completed Im thinking a little over 400 (motor included)


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## oysterbreath (Jan 13, 2009)

That's a good weight. Thing I noticed about boat building is that the boat always feel much heavier than it actually is when friends are helping you to flip it! At 200 lbs if you ask your buddies to help flip it again, they'll all complain that it weights 1000 lbs. If they don't....then you've got some pretty boring friends! lol


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

Yeah, you want flip only once . I'm debating full 8" gunnel or leaving it open with exposed rod holders like the shadowcasts. The plans state that the hull can be left open as long as the trim/rub rail is installed. Any input would appreciated.


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## cutrunner (Jun 8, 2010)

Gunnels
My skiff doesnt have them and I really wish I did for rod storage


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## Gramps (Nov 1, 2007)

With out gunnels it won't look finished, IMO. All of the work you've put into making that boat a beauty, giver her the full gunnel treatment!


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

Thanks Cut and Gramps. .gunnels it is.
I've been working on the frames and bulkheads and getting the decks trimmed and in thier place. Nothing picture worthy. Yesterday I found an awesome deal on Craigslist on a Jon boat that included a 2013 20hp Suzuki with 5-6 hour   ;D a 55lb Minn Kota, and some othe misc items I plan on using. I had to drive an hour, replace a bearing on the side of the road, and not het home till 2am to pick it up, but it was worth it. I'll post some pics later tonight. I'm hoping to get to 30mph with a light load out of this set up.


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

Here's a couple of pics of the motor and donor boat. 
The hull and trailer will probably be up for sale/trade soon if anyone is interested let me know.
I would consider a trade for a push pole or gps.


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

I'm pecking away at this project. I've laminated in the cockpit floor, rear platform bracing, gel coated the bilge, and glassed in the bow eye reinforcement. Nothing really picture worthy at this point. I've also tested my fuel tank and it is leaking at the sender, so I ordered another. The next thing will be to install the fuel tank under the bow deck. Has anyone used these 90 degree fuel vents. Are they any better than the straight ones and a loop in the line? The description says you can omit the loop with these, but I'm sceptical.


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

Makin some baby steps..New fuel sender, leak checked tank, installed fuel vent, installed bow eye, installed tank tie downs, rod tubes, false bulk head with supports, and roughed in the bow hatch and the fuel tank access plate. I settled on rod storage for 6 rods under the gunnels, two with rod tubes for rods 9ft+.


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## Recidivists (May 9, 2011)

Lookin' good. Did you use that fuel vent you mentioned?


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

Thanks, no I went with the  standard 90 degree vent with the flush mount fitting so it doesn't snag lines or get knocked off at the dock. I angled the barb upward as much as possible and with the loop. It should keep water out.


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

After much debate, I went with the simplest design for the gunnel supports/rod storage. K.I.S.S.!, I never Learn .  I put some rods  on there and it turns out six rods won't fit well unless you offset the reels, which is fine because I only own 2 that I fish with, and one spare. I had to make the gunnels a little narrower to accommodate the wood for the gunnels that came already cut when I bought the boat , so they will be about 7" and not 8" wide.

I'm thinking the next step will be to finalize the fuel tank install and secure the decks so that I can fill and smooth the edges to get the inside ready for primer. The next dilemma will be deciding if to paint the rod storage area under the gunnels the same fighting lady yellow as the hull or just lining it with SeaDek or Hydroturf.


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

Not sure which way to go. If I paint under the gunnels, its more work and time to fair and prep and I still have to add something to protect the reels-IE Sea Dek pads. The other option is to cover the area completely and I won't have to worry about reels and rods getting scratched up. Any input would be great. Here are some paint doodles to clarify. Paint under gunnels;

or
Sea Dek, Hydroturf,or Black Vynil Mat under gunnels:

The vynil mat is from HD, is cheap, and looks like this up close;


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## cutrunner (Jun 8, 2010)

Tough choice


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

> Posted by: cut runner Posted on: Today at 12:07:33
> Tough choice


I think this indecision an illness  

I scraped the idea of using the Craigslist aluminum platform and decided to make a low platform out of carbon sleeve and a piece of Nida Core and Carbon Cloth I had left over. I'm thinking it will be about 22" X 19" (standing surface) around 20" tall about 1 1/2 Diameter tube and will look something like this;


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

No "real" progress to report, but I did glue up the strips along the inner perimeter of the hull where the outer edges of the decks will sit. I ordered some styro-foam rings, rods, and cones that I will be using to mock up the poling platform and bow casting platform. The mock ups will then serve as the molds for the carbon sleeves to build them. I wanted to do this before the decks go down permanently because I'm going to try to use rare earth magnets to make the platforms easily removable for those tight back country creeks with low hanging branches. They'll be a magnet for each foot embedded in the Nidacore and in each foot of the platforms. Each magnet has a holding power of 27Lbs, so I'm thinking 108lbs of force should hold the very light carbon platforms, at least while on the water. I may have to take them down when trailering.  
I also ordered some red fish stickers from Skiff Life for the hull sides in red. Here's a visual;

and I think I want to go with this rubrail in white from Mate USA. Its got a clean look to it:


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## cutrunner (Jun 8, 2010)

Sweet
just make sure you seal the magnets up because they will turn to a ball of rust in no time otherwise


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## oysterbreath (Jan 13, 2009)

Those rubrails look like the TR-125 rubrails. I used them on my boat. Really nice they are! I got mine from Rubrails.com Alan Ray, the owner is a great guy. You might want to contact him and see if his price is better. Mine were the 46' foot, 1 1/4" kit and cost $170 plus UPS.


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

Thanks Oyster, I had bought some Rub Rail from Alan almost 6-7 years ago. I picked it up right from Taco here in N. Miami. Good Guy and fair prices. I'm definitely going to check with him, the best price online I found was about $250 plus shipping.


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

I picked up some aluminum angle, plate , and square tube to start putting the mini jack plate together, which I want to do before I firm up the poling platform design to make sure I can tilt the motor up without hitting it. 

Can anyone tell me in some detail how to set up the hardware to reduce the dissimilar oxidation. I tried Googling "Dissimilar Oxidation for Dummies, among other things, but nothing I found online really spells it out and I can't find the other MS posts that address it. 

Stainless bolts, yes?
Brass Nuts or/and washers?
Plastic Washers?


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## Recidivists (May 9, 2011)

Greased stainless bolts and plasti-dipped stainless washers is what I do on the trailer. It hasn't been an issue for me without the plasti-dip on the jackplate washers, however.


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

> I picked up some aluminum angle, plate , and square tube to start putting the mini jack plate together, which I want to do before I firm up the poling platform design to make sure I can tilt the motor up without hitting it.
> 
> Can anyone tell me in some detail how to set up the hardware to reduce the dissimilar oxidation. I tried Googling "Dissimilar Oxidation for Dummies, among other things, but nothing I found online really spells it out and I can't find the other MS posts that address it.
> 
> ...


Look up a galvonic rating chart. As it was explained to me, you want two metals that are close together on the chart, but not the same to prevent seizing. Most guys use high grade stainless bolts and brass nuts. I tried silicon bronze nuts rather than brass because the numbers were closer to high grade stainless. The silicon bronze may be less inclined to galvanic corrosion and was marketed as corrosion resistant, but it seems to oxidize more than brass, so I wouldn't recommend it to anyone else. I used stainless fender washers and locknuts. I don't think you want plastic washers because given the small tolerances, softer materials may allow it to bind when moved up or down.

Nate


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

Thanks Nate, I think I'm going to go with 316 Stainless bolts and washers with brass lock nuts. I was reading up on stainless ratings and the is an A4 rating that is what is considered "Marine Grade" but the sizes and styles are limited and like $5-6 a bolt  [smiley=eek.gif]


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

Jack Plate Parts;

I sent off for a quote for powder coating in black. The mounting Plate is 8"x10"x1/4". The angle is 3/8"x3"x10, and the square tube is 1/4"x3"x1". The angle could have been 1/4" instead of 3/8" to save wieght, but I wanted it to be sturdy.


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

I put the jack plate together with some cheap HD Zinc bolts to check if its going to be functional and the transom height will work out. The height is fixed right now and in the lowest position, since I have to cut the slots in it. I had a piece of black starboard laying around so I added it to give it a a little more thickness, but I'm not sure if it will be an issue will the clamps slipping off.It seems like I'm going to need to trim the transom down about an inch to make sure there is enough clearance for the motor clamps since there is only 4" of setback. it wieghs about 22lbs now, so I may try to trim some wieght off after everything is functional.


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

Still waiting on some stuff for the platforms. I'm thinking I'll go ahead and build the casting platform so I can line up the magnets exactly where they need to be, otherwise I won't get as much pull if they are off. In the mean time I was tinkering with the Birdsall TM mount. I didn't want another hole in the deck for the TM connector so I incorporated it into the Birdsall mount. I  will add another connector at the base of the mount to complete it later


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## oysterbreath (Jan 13, 2009)

The plug in the birdsall mount is a novel idea!


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

> The plug in the birdsall mount is a novel idea!


 Thanks Oyster

I layed up the casting platform deck and one of the legs last night. Heres a pic as I was getting stuff ready. The legs are Carbon/Kevlar sleeves, for aesthetics really. The color of the Kevlar is pretty close to what the hull color will be.


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

castingpplatform deck and legs


ready to put down the front deck permanently. .i think


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## trplsevenz (Oct 29, 2012)

great outside the box thinking with the TM plug.


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## jdpber1 (Aug 21, 2013)

liking the progress


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

Thanks BuckWild and Jdpber..

I could use some input on this Faux Teak EVA Foam for the Casting Platform and Poling Platform. Its only 4mm thick so far. I might add another layer to add more cushion. Not to sure if it goes with the Carbon/Kevlar Legs or if it should just be black on top though.


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## Recidivists (May 9, 2011)

Black.


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

All I know is that is a cool platform. I'm building one out of PVC and painting the legs black and leave the top white starboard. I did this to save money. But yours is much nicer


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

> Thanks BuckWild and Jdpber..
> 
> I could use some input on this Faux Teak EVA Foam for the Casting Platform and Poling Platform. Its only 4mm thick so far. I might add another layer to add more cushion. Not to sure if it goes with the Carbon/Kevlar Legs or if it should just be black on top though.


I guess I am just showing myself to be another carbon fiber groupy, but those carbon fiber legs look cool!

I agree with your gut. The faux teak doesn't work, but do you ever stand on it barefoot? If so, don't go with black. It will get uncomfortably hot IMO. I think you need a jade or moss green solid colored top based on the pics, but my monitor's color may be misleading. I don't think any of the available patterns will work with the legs, but in the end, you'll just stand on it. What colors did you settle on for the hull interior?

Nate


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

> Black.


Thanks, Recidivist 


> All I know is that is a cool platform. I'm building one out of PVC and painting the legs black and leave the top white starboard. I did this to save money. But yours is much nicer


Thanks,  Permitchaser. I made it with carbon only because I had scrap Nidacore from the Decks and Floor and I picked up a yard of that cloth from the remnants page from Soller Composite for $9. Otherwise, mine would have been PVC too.  


> > Thanks BuckWild and Jdpber..
> >
> > I could use some input on this Faux Teak EVA Foam for the Casting Platform and Poling Platform. Its only 4mm thick so far. I might add another layer to add more cushion. Not to sure if it goes with the Carbon/Kevlar Legs or if it should just be black on top though.
> 
> ...


Thanks Nate.  I’ll be barefoot, so yeah black won’t be a great idea. It’s not too clear in the pics, but the color on the weave of the legs is a light yellow (natural color of the Kevlar), close to the Fighting Lady Yellow the hull color will be. Maybe I’ll just do it in white EVA foam. The Deck is going to be Oyster white, but I want to do the interior vertical surfaces in Fighting Yellow, except under the gunnels. I’m thinking on spraying under the gunnels with black Plasti-dip to provide some abrasion protection to the rods.


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

Started fitting the jack plate and had to make some adjustments. I had to move the set-back from 4" to 5" so the clamps would clear the hull enough to be tightened. I also ended up cutting the transom straight across at 15". The cavitation plate is right at the bottom of the hull when the motor is set in the middle pin. I'll see how/if it runs here and go from there.


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## paint it black (Nov 3, 2007)

Still got that jon boat? any info on it?


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

I sold it a while back.


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

Installed the Gunnel supports and re-coated the rear storage/bilge area with gelcoat. 


The decks are still not fixed, since I want to make sure I do as much as I can, so that I don't have to work uncomfortably later once they are permanently in place. In the rear I want to get the water separator, and the deck drains installed before the deck is permanent. The plan is for the cockpit to be self draining, but I'll have to wait to float it before I put the through-hull through the transom. I want to make sure I place it just above the waterline at rest.


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

It's been a while since my last post, but the build has progressed, albeit slowly. The decks are on, the fuel tank is plumbed and secured except the fill, structurally everything is in place and all the exposed wood on the gunnel caps has at least one coat of epoxy on it. I still need to do plenty of grinding  and fairing though, before the non skid goes on. The best excuse I could come up with to do a trial run in the nearby canal was establishing a good waterline to ensure I placed the through hull for the deck drain at the correct height. At rest the draft is 2.75" and with myself 240lb# and a 7 yr old 50lb# at the bow the drat was a respectable 4.5". With the stock prop, I could only get to about 3/4 throttle before hitting the rev limiter and that was getting us to 23mph. Hole shot was quick and plane almost instantaneous. Tippyness is much better than what I remember of my Gheenoe 16 Classic. I can move to the side of the boat and feel comfortable. There are no strakes on this hull so the tracking feels a little slippery while running and the turning will require a little leaning and powering down to make tighter turns. In the center pin with the cav plate even with the hull she wants to run flat so I moved one up and then the water was breaking a little further back than half way. That's with no fuel in the bow, so I'll have to maybe move it to the top pin once there is fuel up front. Here's a pic at he ramp.


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## tomahawk (Mar 9, 2012)

Very nice. That has me wishing I would have kept my FS plans.


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

Thanks Tomahawk, your build is coming along nicely and quickly. The GF is a nice setup and the draft numbers should be pretty close. What made you go with the GF over the FS.


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

It that Suzuki as good as advertised? I like what I heard about it, but have no personal experience with the motor.

Nate


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## tomahawk (Mar 9, 2012)

> Thanks Tomahawk, your build is coming along nicely and quickly. The GF is a nice setup and the draft numbers should be pretty close. What made you go with the GF over the FS.


Thanks man. I wanted to try an easier build first. I bought the plans and partial materials from a guy who quit on it. Nothing was assembled but some parts were partially cut but not labeled. Truth be told I was kind of intimidated by it for some reason. 
In hindsight I kind of wish I wish I would have kept it instead of selling. I'm very happy with my build but I just love the looks of the FS.


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

> It that Suzuki as good as advertised?  I like what I heard about it, but have no personal experience with the motor.
> Nate


Hey Nate it’s pretty awesome. It’s got its pros and cons though. What I like best is how easy it starts and how quiet it is and that it’s been sitting in my garage for long time without being started and it cranks right up with a half-hearted pull like it had just been running 5 minutes ago. This is my first 4 stroke on a micro so maybe that is normal on a four stroke pull start, but I really appreciate it coming from a Johnson 2 Stroke Circa 1980’s that had to be started once a week to keep the carb from gumming up and with the exhaust port above the water, that screamed like a banshee (kinda cool, but irritating when you get old and crotchety). That being said the power curve and the rev limiter will take some getting used to and there is some vibration in the mid-range. I’ve read that a four blade prop helps remedy the vibration so I’ll be going to a four blade to address that and to dial in the Revs, once the boats ready.


> > Thanks Tomahawk, your build is coming along nicely and quickly. The GF is a nice setup and the draft numbers should be pretty close. What made you go with the GF over the FS.
> 
> 
> Thanks man. I wanted to try an easier build first. I bought the plans and partial materials from a guy who quit on it. Nothing was assembled but some parts were partially cut but not labeled. Truth be told I was kind of intimidated by it for some reason.
> In hindsight I kind of wish I wish I would have kept it instead of selling. I'm very happy with my build but I just love the looks of the FS.


I know what you mean. I was going to start with a 16 Swift canoe when I came across the deal on this FS that I couldn’t pass up. Sometimes it’s less intimidating to start from scratch than to pick up where someone else left off, since you know all the mistakes you made along the way [smiley=1-smack-myself.gif], versus the anxiety caused by anticipating the ones the previous builder made.


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## tomahawk (Mar 9, 2012)

Yep, you nailed there I think. Now, having some experience, I wouldn't hesitate. The guy that bought it from me has it for sale on here. He has it about 70% complete. Hopefully someone buys that baby and finishes her up.


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## Zipper146 (Dec 4, 2013)

That's gonna be super Skinny! Nice work so far, can't wait to see it complete!


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

Thanks Zipper






Making progress slowly but surely. The deck drain and thru hull in the transom are in and plumbed. It seems to drain fine. I want to get it in the water one more time to make sure the thru hull is at the right height and above the waterline, at rest anyway. I'll try to put some better pics up tonight.


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

I just might be fishing in 2015  . I had FWC come out and do their inspection last week, and it went well. I'm ready to go apply for the title and registration at the tag agency. The non-skid is done and looks pretty good and consistent. I should be receiving the 35qt Frigid Rigid Cooler tomorrow that I worked out a trade on for a custom made carbon tiller extension. If the weather stays cool, I should be able to start painting the hull sides and also paint the cooler to match.


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## cutrunner (Jun 8, 2010)

Wow looks nice out of the garage


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## tomahawk (Mar 9, 2012)

Looking good man!


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

Thanks Cut Runner and Tomahawk. They cooler arrived yesterday. Now just waiting on the brushing reducer to start applying the Interlux perfection.


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## jacobhicks112 (Sep 23, 2014)

What kind of foam are you using


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

Jacob,
I used a gallon of 16 lb foam, just because I had it for another project that I was going to do a foam transom with. That only created a thin layer of foam. The rest of the space under the sole was filled with 2 lb flotation foam.  There's also two cavities on each side of the bilge that are filled with 2 lb foam. It should equal about a 1000 lbs of positive flotation I hope to never need.


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

Finally  got  it  painted. The rub rail is only predrilled not fully installed. I have to pull it  back off so I seal the holes and apply sealant. Not sure if I  want to use 5200 but I have a tube, so thats probably  what  it will be.


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## tomahawk (Mar 9, 2012)

Very nice!


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## TidewateR (Nov 11, 2009)

looks awesome! Thanks for keeping us posted.


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

Thanks for the compliments Guys!


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

That's one sexy skiff!  Hey, do you mind if I take her out on a date? ;D 

I don't know someone just doesn't make a mold of it and sell em for a REASONABLE price!


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

Black helicopters full of lawyers would descend on the poor fool at about the same time as he accepted his first check. Besides, you can have one just like it for the cost of materials.

Very nice build. I will always love this hull.

Nate


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

Thanks Backwater and Nate! 

No dates!!!    
Although if you want to split time on the pole at Flamingo let me know, as long as you don't mind heading out at 3am . The maiden trip goes to my best friend (Wife) but she hates skeeters so summer trips are open . 
You're right Nate; with the initial deal on the hull and materials, patience, and some more gray hair I have been blessed to come out at about a 1/3 of what a similar production BMT package would have cost.


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

> You're right Nate; with the initial deal on the hull and materials, patience, and some more gray hair I have been blessed to come out at about a 1/3 of what a similar production BMT package would have cost.


Only if you value your labor at zero.
;D 
Of course, if you hadn't spent your time building a boat, you would have just wasted it on some inconsequential endeavor like mowing the yard or personal hygiene or fishing.

Nate


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## cutrunner (Jun 8, 2010)

Wow turned out nice!
Enjoy it


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## gillz (May 20, 2007)

> Wow turned out nice!
> Enjoy it


Thanks Cut

I have a few more details left, like the under gunnel carpet and wiring the bilge pump. I ran it with a new prop, 9.25 x 10, and there was still some slippage at wot and occasionally it would hit the rev limit, so I sent it to get cupped. It came back sooner than expected, so what better excuse to run it at Flamingo  . No more slipping or rev limit and it ran well. I was getting 25mph with light load and by myself. It was gusting pretty bad and there was some sloppy chop too, but considering the conditions, it was a dry ride. The fishing was tough though, only managed one lower slot red and one jack. My TM is also acting up and Only spins very slowly at full speed. I think the control board might be bad or maybe it needs a brush kit so I was tiptoeing off the front of the boat to keep me in place where I could.


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