# New glues for fly tying.



## LowHydrogen (Dec 31, 2015)

Nice write up very good info, and great detail. I'm going to have to try the Liquid Fusion. 

I noticed you mention aggravation with the brush/bristles, they bothered me too, not being able to be as precise as I wanted to be with the application of glue/Sally's. 

Now.... I take a small pair of pliers and pull all the bristles out, then I take a short straight piece of stainless MIG wire (.045) and use the pliers to shove it up into the plastic at the bottom of the hole where the bristles were removed. The plastic is soft on the brushes and the wire pages in easily. Then trim it short enough so the bottle will close and not be held open by the wire being too long. It allows me to be much more precise and controlled.

Kind of like a built in bodkin......


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## Uno (Sep 9, 2010)

I have been using Liquid Fusion for years with excellent results.


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

Uno said:


> I have been using Liquid Fusion for years with excellent results.


Cool! It's new for me and I really like it, even for other applications.


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

LowHydrogen said:


> Now.... I take a small pair of pliers and pull all the bristles out, then I take a short straight piece of stainless MIG wire (.045) and use the pliers to shove it up into the plastic at the bottom of the hole where the bristles were removed. The plastic is soft on the brushes and the wire pages in easily. Then trim it short enough so the bottle will close and not be held open by the wire being too long. It allows me to be much more precise and controlled.
> 
> Kind of like a built in bodkin......


Cool, I'll have to try that also. But I'll do it with a different bottle because I like the small brush (somewhat precision).


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## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

Backwater said:


> Cool, I'll have to try that also. But I'll do it with a different bottle because I like the small brush (somewhat precision).


All I've used now for years and years is that same Krazy Glue -but in the original plastic squeeze tube to apply a tiny drop as an anchor early on in the tying process (once the first material is in place...). I also use that same krazy glue as a finish and sealant on thread heads when I'm going to paint eyes on them.... Once dries (I use tube like a tiny paint brush when I'm coating thread heads) then it's time for a Sally Hansen's or FlexCoat for a final finish....


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

lemaymiami said:


> All I've used now for years and years is that same Krazy Glue -but in the original plastic squeeze tube to apply a tiny drop as an anchor early on in the tying process (once the first material is in place...). I also use that same krazy glue as a finish and sealant on thread heads when I'm going to paint eyes on them.... Once dries (I use tube like a tiny paint brush when I'm coating thread heads) then it's time for a Sally Hansen's or FlexCoat for a final finish....


Bob, trust me when I say your'll like the little bottle, indicated above in my OP, of the Loctite Super Glue Brush-On (which it's really the Professional Liquid) with the wide mouth and the little brush. The brush gives you a lot of control during the application and the finish dries more like a glossy thin head finish cement than regular Krazy Glue. Also that little bottle of KG that your using (I've used it too) is a PITA to keep the tip clean.


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## texasag07 (Nov 11, 2014)

Backwater said:


> Bob, trust me when I say your'll like the little bottle, indicated above in my OP, of the Loctite Super Glue Brush-On (which it's really the Professional Liquid) with the wide mouth and the little brush. The brush gives you a lot of control during the application and the finish dries more like a glossy thin head finish cement than regular Krazy Glue. Also that little bottle of KG that your using (I've used it too) is a PITA to keep the tip clean.



I have seen the liquid fusion at fabric stores and have thought about giving it a go. I typically use the brush bottle of Krazy glue. My main complaint with it is don't wet test your fly for 15-20 mins after glueing or it will turn chalky white


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## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

When it comes to eyes I have been using the clear cure goo thick along with the flat stick on prism eyes and spreading it out with a bodkin needle to the shape and thickness I want. For me it has worked better than anything else to permanently seal the eyes into place. I just use it very sparingly. I like the fact that I can work the thick version into a tapered shape and then zap it with the light. I always try and spread a very thin coat of epoxy over the eyes themselves so the prism material is protected.

I do a quick and very sparse coat of Sally Hanson over that and it's pretty much indestructible with very little weight gain.


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

el9surf said:


> When it comes to eyes I have been using the clear cure goo thick along with the flat stick on prism eyes and spreading it out with a bodkin needle to the shape and thickness I want. For me it has worked better than anything else to permanently seal the eyes into place. I just use it very sparingly. I like the fact that I can work the thick version into a tapered shape and then zap it with the light. I always try and spread a very thin coat of epoxy over the eyes themselves so the prism material is protected.
> 
> I do a quick and very sparse coat of Sally Hanson over that and it's pretty much indestructible with very little weight gain.


el9surf, what I've been doing with the Liquid Fusion is placing a good drop in the area where I want the eye to go, then work it down into the fibers with the pointy end of a thin wooden skewer or a bodkin. The I place another drop on top of that and set the eye into place. I'll also pull a small amount of the glue over the edges of the eye, especially the front edge, using my bodkin. Then I set the fly to the side to let it dry. Once the glue dries, it's not going anywhere and cost of application is far less than the clear goo. I've been down the UV resin road as well. One thing to note, I do use the UV resins for some things. I have 2 newer ones I'm playing around with. One is thinner and requires no wiping with alchol and coating with Salley Hanson's and is 1/2 the cost. The other is thicker like CG but I like it better and it's about 1/3 the cost (comes out of a completely different industry). I'll let you know when I have time and seems all good.


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## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

Interesting, let us know. 

I use the clear cure very sparingly so it's relatively inexpensive to use.


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## KnotHome (Jul 21, 2009)

I love the liquid fusion for eyes and brush backs! If you eff up, it washes out as long as it's wet, but still holds great once dry.


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

KnotHome said:


> I love the liquid fusion for eyes and brush backs! If you eff up, it washes out as long as it's wet, but still holds great once dry.


Good to know! Thanks! 

Btw, is that what you used on that ultra hair shrimp I got from you?


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## KnotHome (Jul 21, 2009)

Backwater said:


> Good to know! Thanks!
> 
> Btw, is that what you used on that ultra hair shrimp I got from you?


No, that's 5 minute epoxy to penetrate the hairs and hot glue to build it up a little more. I use 2 applications of epoxy for larger sizes. I thought about trying LF for the shrimp, but worried it was too runny to work with.


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## LowHydrogen (Dec 31, 2015)

Finally got around to taking a pic of what I described earlier.....


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