# Atlas Micro Jacker problems



## Mercuryproteam

I hope not. Just ordered one and it will be her next week. Following


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## timogleason

Burned up my actuator after about 2.5 years. Was under warranty but still a pretty hefty bill to pull the engine, get installed and reset the engine. Had some issues with adjustments for a while until I got it dialed. I do love my jackplate though.


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## Sublime

No problems so far.


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## Smackdaddy53

The CMC relays were bad out of the box on mine when I got it two months ago. They sent me a new actuator and relays no charge.


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## Nway93

My buddy has had some issues with his on a 2016 pro. The actuator went bad after 6 months or so and tried to warranty it and was told it wasn't under warranty. I guess the warranty starts when it leaves atlas not when it's put on the boat.


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## Smackdaddy53

Nway93 said:


> My buddy has had some issues with his on a 2016 pro. The actuator went bad after 6 months or so and tried to warranty it and was told it wasn't under warranty. I guess the warranty starts when it leaves atlas not when it's put on the boat.


It's has a lot to do with how you talk to people.


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## sjrobin

No problems yet start date July 2015.


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## sjrobin

Smackdaddy53 said:


> The CMC relays were bad out of the box on mine when I got it two months ago. They sent me a new actuator and relays no charge.


The relays and actuator were manufactured by ? I would like to order some spares


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## Smackdaddy53

sjrobin said:


> The relays and actuator were manufactured by ? I would like to order some spares


Atlas bought CMC, they are 100% CMC. My relays have CMC labels on them.


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## MariettaMike

sjrobin said:


> The relays and actuator were manufactured by ? I would like to order some spares


The relays: https://www.amazon.com/CMC-Cook-Manufacturing-80-amp-relay/dp/B0051US1RI

The actuator: http://www.marineboatingsupply.com/73hisphyac5c.html

The whole enchilada: http://www.microskiff.com/threads/nib-atlas-micro-jacker.43563/


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## Smackdaddy53

I got my whole Jackplate and blinker switch setup for $800 shipped from TH Marine.


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## sjrobin

MariettaMike said:


> The relays: https://www.amazon.com/CMC-Cook-Manufacturing-80-amp-relay/dp/B0051US1RI
> 
> The actuator: http://www.marineboatingsupply.com/73hisphyac5c.html
> 
> The whole enchilada: http://www.microskiff.com/threads/nib-atlas-micro-jacker.43563/


Thanks Mike.


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## sjrobin

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Atlas bought CMC, they are 100% CMC. My relays have CMC labels on them.


How did you know the relays and actuator were bad? Very unusual.


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## Smackdaddy53

sjrobin said:


> How did you know the relays and actuator were bad? Very unusual.


Just the relays were sticking and would just click and not work consistently. They sent the actuator just in case.


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## sjrobin

Thanks. Sounds better for Atlas also.


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## coconutgroves

MariettaMike said:


> The relays: https://www.amazon.com/CMC-Cook-Manufacturing-80-amp-relay/dp/B0051US1RI
> 
> The actuator: http://www.marineboatingsupply.com/73hisphyac5c.html
> 
> The whole enchilada: http://www.microskiff.com/threads/nib-atlas-micro-jacker.43563/


This is spot on. I don't have an Atlas, I have a Bob's but keep spares on me just in case I need to change it. You can jump the actuator too if it stuck. I carry a spare jumper wire just in case. And they are pretty easy to change out.

I had my Bob's start to stick, so I changed out both actuators and went ahead and flushed the fluid.


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## Smackdaddy53

sjrobin said:


> Thanks. Sounds better for Atlas also.


I tried the new relays on the original actuator and the new one and they both worked but I still swapped them out and sent the original back.


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## Smackdaddy53

Update...went to run my jackplate up at the house after a full battery charge and the jackplate acts like it’s binding up. I presure wash with Dawn once a month and pressure wash after every trip. I am fishing in the morning and it looks like my Jackplate will stay halfway up the whole time. Not happy...


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## CPurvis

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Update...went to run my jackplate up at the house after a full battery charge and the jackplate acts like it’s binding up. I presure wash with Dawn once a month and pressure wash after every trip. I am fishing in the morning and it looks like my Jackplate will stay halfway up the whole time. Not happy...


Have you tried loosening the slide bolts? Just make sure you loosen the jam nuts prior to loosening the bolt.


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## Smackdaddy53

CPurvis said:


> Have you tried loosening the slide bolts? Just make sure you loosen the jam nuts prior to loosening the bolt.


No, it’s only about 8 months old, I’m calling them and having a new jackplate sent. I don’t deal with junk, been there done that!


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## Stevie

I recently learned that all JPs (Atlas and Bob’s) are now made in China. They don’t use de-tinned wire. Best to rewire them before installing.


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## Smackdaddy53

Stevie said:


> I recently learned that all JPs (Atlas and Bob’s) are now made in China. They don’t use de-tinned wire. Best to rewire them before installing.


It’s tinned, I stripped the ends when I wired it. The motor sounds like it’s lacking proper voltage, I’m going to get the warranty straight before I go tainting it. I’m just pissed that I can never buy anything worth a shit these days. Good thing the tide dropped out yesterday after this last strong front.


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## firecat1981

Smackdaddy53 said:


> It’s tinned, I stripped the ends when I wired it. The motor sounds like it’s lacking proper voltage, I’m going to get the warranty straight before I go tainting it. I’m just pissed that I can never buy anything worth a shit these days. Good thing the tide dropped out yesterday after this last strong front.


The pressure cleaning may have been the issue. I learned long ago that seals don't like high pressure water. Yes it's ironic, but the seals are there to try and keep things clean so they don't bind, when you pressure wash you have a good chance of pushing dirt and debris into the seals that would normally wash away with just cascading water. I had a few pricey lessons doing that, none since I stopped.


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## Stevie

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Good thing the tide dropped out yesterday after this last strong front.


You won't have to run very far to find fish. The TX Coast is on fire.


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## Smackdaddy53

Stevie said:


> You won't have to run very far to find fish. The TX Coast is on fire.


I found lots of fish today but airboats already ran over them. You have to love duck season.


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## Godzuki86

Smackdaddy53 said:


> I found lots of fish today but airboats already ran over them. You have to love duck season.


That's like us dealing with all the tower boats burning flats trying to push up schools.


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## Smackdaddy53

Godzuki86 said:


> That's like us dealing with all the tower boats burning flats trying to push up schools.


Y’all still have reds that school up?!? The only schools of reds down here are in the most remote areas and the ones in the close bays are rats that don’t know any better. The flats have been so beat up it’s ridiculous.


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## Smackdaddy53

Installed a fresh Optima Blue Top with 13.4 volts and the Microjacker is still straining and won’t lift past about 3/4 of the way up. Still waiting on TH Marine to email or call back...not happy. I’m giving this plate one more shot after they make it right then I’m probably getting one of those heavy assed Bob’s...


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## CPurvis

When I had my bolt issue I had no problems getting in touch with someone. I was told to call CMC marine. Here is the number 580 252 1699. And here is the number for TH 256 772 0164. I would definitely call CMC if you havn't already.


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## CPurvis

So I'm 4 months in with my jack plate. It just stopped working. Seems like an electrical issue. I am getting power up to the switch but no power when I hit up or down. Any ideas?


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## Smackdaddy53

CPurvis said:


> So I'm 4 months in with my jack plate. It just stopped working. Seems like an electrical issue. I am getting power up to the switch but no power when I hit up or down. Any ideas?


Tap the relays with the plastic handle of a screwdriver while you work the switch to see if they react. It might be bad relays.


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## CPurvis

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Tap the relays with the plastic handle of a screwdriver while you work the switch to see if they react. It might be bad relays.


I'll try that. I'll have to get some help my switch is on my grab bar and the relays are attached to the transom.


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## CPurvis

CPurvis said:


> I'll try that. I'll have to get some help my switch is on my grab bar and the relays are attached to the transom.


If the relays are bad would I still be getting power to the switch?


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## CPurvis

Smackdaddy53 did you ever get your issue resolved?


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## Smackdaddy53

CPurvis said:


> Smackdaddy53 did you ever get your issue resolved?


Yes they sent a new actuator and relays because the relays were bad and the actuator looked like someone used channel locks to remove the knurled metal nut that holds the wire in the top of the actuator. That was last October. My actuator crapped out in Ssptember and they sent me a new one under warranty. I’m about sick of this POS. Next failure and I’m getting a Bob’s.


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## Smackdaddy53

CPurvis said:


> If the relays are bad would I still be getting power to the switch?


I’m no electrician but mine was doing the same thing when I first got it. I wired it up befoe I mounted it to test it and it wouldn’t move up or down unless I smacked the relays with a screwdriver.


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## scout177

I had a atlas micro-jacker and it lasted about 10 trips and then locked in down position. Atlas has great customer service and sent a new one which I promptly sold in order to put the real deal on...Bob's hydraulic lightweight version. Too much trouble pulling the outboard off and replacing a plate. Also, the atlas micro jacker is much slower and an inch or two less in jacking capability. Put the Bob's on and never look back...


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## Smackdaddy53

scout177 said:


> I had a atlas micro-jacker and it lasted about 10 trips and then locked in down position. Atlas has great customer service and sent a new one which I promptly sold in order to put the real deal on...Bob's hydraulic lightweight version. Too much trouble pulling the outboard off and replacing a plate. Also, the atlas micro jacker is much slower and an inch or two less in jacking capability. Put the Bob's on and never look back...


What model Bob’s exactly?


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## scout177

Smackdaddy53 said:


> What model Bob’s exactly?


Here you go: https://bobsmachine.com/product/4-setback-standard-series-lightweight-jack-plate-115hp/

Cheapest online dealer I found: https://www.boatownersworld.com/bob...series-lightweight-jack-plate-100-104000.html

Note that there is a $100 splash plate option on Bob's website but you can easily fabricate a rectangular piece of aluminum or starboard and screw it to the bottom of the jackplate. In fact, I found that I kept water pressure better and could lift much further with this splash plate...it really directs the flow of water to the prop better than w/o. I am running a waterman 18, non-tunnel with F-60

Have heard good feedback on Bob's action series but wanted to go with the most proven setup.


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## Smackdaddy53

scout177 said:


> Here you go: https://bobsmachine.com/product/4-setback-standard-series-lightweight-jack-plate-115hp/
> 
> Cheapest online dealer I found: https://www.boatownersworld.com/bob...series-lightweight-jack-plate-100-104000.html
> 
> Note that there is a $100 splash plate option on Bob's website but you can easily fabricate a rectangular piece of aluminum or starboard and screw it to the bottom of the jackplate. In fact, I found that I kept water pressure better and could lift much further with this splash plate...it really directs the flow of water to the prop better than w/o. I am running a waterman 18, non-tunnel with F-60
> 
> Have heard good feedback on Bob's action series but wanted to go with the most proven setup.


That’s the one I should have gone with in the first place. The plate weight is not much heavier than the Atlas micro. I’ll be buying this one in a few weeks.


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## CPurvis

Yeah I'm tired of buying expensive stuff and then it turns out to be crap.im about to just say screw it and go manual on the jack plate. Also about to throw my PP micro in the garbage. It is the most unreliable POS. I lost a big gator trout yesterday cause I was busy trying to get my spike to go down. I am on my 3rd PP 700.00$ should work better. And I take care of my [email protected]#.


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## Smackdaddy53

CPurvis said:


> Yeah I'm tired of buying expensive stuff and then it turns out to be crap.im about to just say screw it and go manual on the jack plate. Also about to throw my PP micro in the garbage. It is the most unreliable POS. I lost a big gator trout yesterday cause I was busy trying to get my spike to go down. I am on my 3rd PP 700.00$ should work better. And I take care of my [email protected]#.


I haven’t had any issues with my PP Micro and it came on the boat. Bad remote batteries?


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## CPurvis

Smackdaddy53 said:


> I haven’t had any issues with my PP Micro and it came on the boat. Bad remote batteries?


NO I replaced that I actually have two remotes.


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## CPurvis

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Yes they sent a new actuator and relays because the relays were bad and the actuator looked like someone used channel locks to remove the knurled metal nut that holds the wire in the top of the actuator. That was last October. My actuator crapped out in Ssptember and they sent me a new one under warranty. I’m about sick of this POS. Next failure and I’m getting a Bob’s.


So I got mine working but it also seems like it is straining while going up. I guess I'll call th marine tomorrow.


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## Smackdaddy53

CPurvis said:


> So I got mine working but it also seems like it is straining while going up. I guess I'll call th marine tomorrow.


It’s the actuator. They’ll send you a new one and a return label for the old one.


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## CPurvis

Smackdaddy53 said:


> It’s the actuator. They’ll send you a new one and a return label for the old one.


Is it difficult to change out


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## Smackdaddy53

CPurvis said:


> Is it difficult to change out


Not really. You’ll need a couple of tools like a compression pin punch, floor jack, a couple wrenches and whatever it takes to get the wire back through the through deck fitting. 
Here’s some useful information. 
http://thmarine.com/media/old-site-assets/Atlas-Micro-Installation-Instructions(1).pdf


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## CPurvis

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Not really. You’ll need a couple of tools like a compression pin punch, floor jack, a couple wrenches and whatever it takes to get the wire back through the through deck fitting.
> Here’s some useful information.
> http://thmarine.com/media/old-site-assets/Atlas-Micro-Installation-Instructions(1).pdf


Wow freaking really. That sux. I didn't spend all this money to have to do all that 4 months into it is rather just send it back and be done with it. But thanks for the info.


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## Smackdaddy53

CPurvis said:


> Wow freaking really. That sux. I didn't spend all this money to have to do all that 4 months into it is rather just send it back and be done with it. But thanks for the info.


The only thing under warranty is the actuator. 12 months.


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## g8rfly

scout177 said:


> Here you go: https://bobsmachine.com/product/4-setback-standard-series-lightweight-jack-plate-115hp/
> 
> Cheapest online dealer I found: https://www.boatownersworld.com/bob...series-lightweight-jack-plate-100-104000.html
> 
> Note that there is a $100 splash plate option on Bob's website but you can easily fabricate a rectangular piece of aluminum or starboard and screw it to the bottom of the jackplate. In fact, I found that I kept water pressure better and could lift much further with this splash plate...it really directs the flow of water to the prop better than w/o. I am running a waterman 18, non-tunnel with F-60
> 
> Have heard good feedback on Bob's action series but wanted to go with the most proven setup.


Were the bolt patterns the same for the Bobs, or did you have to put new holes in the transom? thx


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## scout177

g8rfly said:


> Were the bolt patterns the same for the Bobs, or did you have to put new holes in the transom? thx


The bolt patterns are same. Be aware though that the Bobs has 1.5" of built-in lift, so you should carefully consider your outboard mounting hole position.


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## g8rfly

scout177 said:


> The bolt patterns are same. Be aware though that the Bobs has 1.5" of built-in lift, so you should carefully consider your outboard mounting hole position.


Thanks - I'm now looking at the bob's action. Only downside is it is 6"


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## Smackdaddy53

g8rfly said:


> Thanks - I'm now looking at the bob's action. Only downside is it is 6"


In theory that will take away from holeshot but give your prop more water on plane since water rises off the stern. Unless making up for too shallow a tunnel or no tunnel the less setback the better.


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## CPurvis

So the atlas MJ has what looks like a breaker coming off a red wire and an inline fuse off of a purple wire. Does anyone happen to know what amps these are?


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## g8rfly

CPurvis said:


> So the atlas MJ has what looks like a breaker coming off a red wire and an inline fuse off of a purple wire. Does anyone happen to know what amps these are?


I can confirm when I get home - curious why you're asking?


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## CPurvis

g8rfly said:


> I can confirm when I get home - curious why you're asking?


Corrosion issues gonna replace.


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## CPurvis

g8rfly said:


> I can confirm when I get home - curious why you're asking?


Did you happen to check the amps on the fuse and circuit breaker? Thanks


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## CPurvis

well my Atlas quit working today! managed to get it in the Down position. Got the Damn thing in October. Now I get to trouble shoot this POS again.


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## Smackdaddy53

CPurvis said:


> well my Atlas quit working today! managed to get it in the Down position. Got the Damn thing in October. Now I get to trouble shoot this POS again.


How many is this now?


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## sjrobin

No problems with Atlas bought in 2015. F60 Yamaha at 250 hours. Plate full down when trailering and motor with transom saver. Silicone spray on tracks every other trip. Freshwater rinse every trip. Also when raising or lowering do not stay on the switch past full up or down.


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## CPurvis

Smackdaddy53 said:


> How many is this now?


Too many!! I did rule out the actuator that was a relief.


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## CPurvis

sjrobin said:


> No problems with Atlas bought in 2015. F60 Yamaha at 250 hours. Plate full down when trailering and motor with transom saver. Silicone spray on tracks every other trip. Freshwater rinse every trip. Also when raising or lowering do not stay on the switch past full up or down.


Yeah Same on all of the above! I take care of my stuff. Not sure if quality went down since TH marine and CMC merged or whatever.


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## Smackdaddy53

CPurvis said:


> Yeah Same on all of the above! I take care of my stuff. Not sure if quality went down since TH marine and CMC merged or whatever.


Nope, mine was before the merger


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## CPurvis

Well got my new wiring harness in from CMC luckily it was covered under warranty. So before I replaced the entire wiring harness I decided to dig a little deeper in my trouble shooting. Well found out it was actually a bad 40 amp breaker and not the relays. I had checked this before and thought it was good but I was wrong. Good news is, that now I have a back up wiring harness and blinlker switch for not if but when the current one goes bad. So far I've had to replace a corroded out 5 amp fuse holder and a corroded 40 amp breaker in less than a year of owning the Jack plate. Not a huge deal but definitely a PIA. The customer service has been really good though. Also I have really grown to love my jack plate and probably won't own another boat without one.


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## LowHydrogen

I have heard of people spraying everything down (really soaking) with silicone spray prior to/during install, you guys do that or hear of that?


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## Smackdaddy53

LowHydrogen said:


> I have heard of people spraying everything down (really soaking) with silicone spray prior to/during install, you guys do that or hear of that?


The electrical connections or the plate itself? 
I sprayed the whole plate with CorrosionX red can when I installed it and have re-applied every month or so since. I left the electrical connections alone other than dielectric grease inside the plugs.


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## LowHydrogen

Yeah I was talking plate. I spray some around the motor mounts on all my motors. Seems to help. Never had a boat with a jackplate though.....yet


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## Smackdaddy53

Kind of like Frank’s Hot Sauce...I put that s**t on everything” 
I also used TefGel on the compression pin, all bolts and the long bolt and sleeves that hold the actuator on the frame.


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## CPurvis

Smackdaddy53 said:


> The electrical connections or the plate itself?
> I sprayed the whole plate with CorrosionX red can when I installed it and have re-applied every month or so since. I left the electrical connections alone other than dielectric grease inside the plugs.


Yeah i cleaned up all the electrical connections replaced bothe the 5 amp fuse holder and 40 amp breaker with beter qualiy stuff and applied dielectric grease to all of them. I use yamalube on slide bolts.


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## CPurvis

LowHydrogen said:


> Yeah I was talking plate. I spray some around the motor mounts on all my motors. Seems to help. Never had a boat with a jackplate though.....yet


Ya needs to go ahead and get yo self one!


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## bubba110

I had not been out on my boat in two weeks until this weekend, i have a microjacker, (worked great two weeks ago) and walked out to take it out and hit the jackplate switch and there was nothing happening. Long story short I hunted down a rusted out fuse housing (wiring and fuses are underneath my open aft deck). The fuse is still good but the plastic housing holding it is not sealed at all and was completely rusted out so no current could even pass through the fuse due to bad connections. How is a "Marine" company going to sell a product that is intended for marine applications and not have something that simple be sealed? I too keep my boat clean and rinsed thoroughly after use so it had to be fresh water seeping into the fuse housing and eventually rusting the connections. 

Sounds like i need to go ahead and replace the 40amp fuse at the same time i do this 5 amp fuse.


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## CPurvis

bubba110 said:


> I had not been out on my boat in two weeks until this weekend, i have a microjacker, (worked great two weeks ago) and walked out to take it out and hit the jackplate switch and there was nothing happening. Long story short I hunted down a rusted out fuse housing (wiring and fuses are underneath my open aft deck). The fuse is still good but the plastic housing holding it is not sealed at all and was completely rusted out so no current could even pass through the fuse due to bad connections. How is a "Marine" company going to sell a product that is intended for marine applications and not have something that simple be sealed? I too keep my boat clean and rinsed thoroughly after use so it had to be fresh water seeping into the fuse housing and eventually rusting the connections.
> 
> Sounds like i need to go ahead and replace the 40amp fuse at the same time i do this 5 amp fuse.


About right! Might as well change em both.


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## sjrobin

Rigging is the primary path for reliability in 12V circuits used in the saltwater environment. Now at 400 hours on the Atlas Micro.


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## Guest

sjrobin said:


> Rigging is the primary path for reliability in 12V circuits used in the saltwater environment. Now at 400 hours on the Atlas Micro.


Well said sir!


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## crboggs

Tell me which one you think still works...










I flip flopped them to verify. Whatever direction I have the "clean" relay on stutters a bit but is functional. So I set the jack plate at mid height and will be ordering a pair of replacements.

Am hoping a couple of new relays cleans things up.


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## crboggs

FYI...I found this, if you want to replace a corroded relay and socket without having to replace the entire wiring harness...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CXA42X...&ref_=pd_luc_rh_crh_rh_sbs_sem_02_03_t_img_lh


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## m32825

My Atlas Micro died. I can hear the relays clicking, 40A fuse has continuity, actuator measures infinite resistance. Tried jumping actuator directly off battery, nothing. A little over two (lightly used) years old.

-- Carl


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## Smackdaddy53

m32825 said:


> My Atlas Micro died. I can hear the relays clicking, 40A fuse has continuity, actuator measures infinite resistance. Tried jumping actuator directly off battery, nothing. A little over two (lightly used) years old.
> 
> -- Carl


A new actuator is only $389 haha...
Call them and you may be surprised, they may help a brother out.


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## m32825

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Call them and you may be surprised, they may help a brother out.


Called TH Marine and they forwarded me to CMC Marine. They listened to my description and sent me a replacement actuator. I paid shipping both ways (return to avoid core charge). Easy swap out and I'm back in business. I'd rather it hadn't died in the first place, but I'm happy with their customer support!

-- Carl


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## Smackdaddy53

m32825 said:


> Called TH Marine and they forwarded me to CMC Marine. They listened to my description and sent me a replacement actuator. I paid shipping both ways (return to avoid core charge). Easy swap out and I'm back in business. I'd rather it hadn't died in the first place, but I'm happy with their customer support!
> 
> -- Carl


Yep, they did that for me twice and the second time it was well out of warranty.


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## ifsteve

Was out yesterday and my micro jacker stopped working. I suspect its the switch on the throttle handle. The jack plate would move down but no response when I tired to raise it up. Anything to check besides that switch? Biggest issue is that the skiff runs more efficiently with the plate up about 2" and yesterday the water was so low that several times I had to idle or use the TM quite a ways to get deep enough to be able to jump up on place since I couldn't raise the motor up.


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## Smackdaddy53

The relays can fail, mine did. $25 on Amazon


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## ifsteve

Smackdaddy53 said:


> The relays can fail, mine did. $25 on Amazon


So for an idiot like me how do I determine if its the relay or the switch?


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## commtrd

Prolly not a bad idea to carry one each up and down relays in a plastic bag with desiccant packs to keep dry in emergency bag on boat. I once had to do that with a CMC jack plate on a shallowsport. Relays were not super reliable.


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## commtrd

Have to get a volt meter and trace out the circuit to find out if power is getting to the relay(s). Any experience in troubleshooting?


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## Smackdaddy53

Switch relays and see if you can get it to go the other direction. Mine went down but would not go back up until I switched the relays and then it went up.
What I noticed on these units is the design is off center causing binding and that dogs the motor causing issues. The actuator needs to be in the center, not offset. Good job CMC engineers!


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## ifsteve

The TH Marine troubleshooting page said to check the 40 amp fuse first. This makes no sense to me. If the fuse is blown then how does the motor go one direction and not the other??? I know I am just a dumb chem engineer but a blown fuse doesn't power anything? What am I missing here.

That aside checking the relays seems like a good approach. Just swap them and see if it now goes up and not down then I know its the relay. But one little tiny problem. I have crawled all over this thing and I can't for the life of me find the relays. Going to send Kevin and Adam an email.


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## Smackdaddy53

ifsteve said:


> The TH Marine troubleshooting page said to check the 40 amp fuse first. This makes no sense to me. If the fuse is blown then how does the motor go one direction and not the other??? I know I am just a dumb chem engineer but a blown fuse doesn't power anything? What am I missing here.
> 
> That aside checking the relays seems like a good approach. Just swap them and see if it now goes up and not down then I know its the relay. But one little tiny problem. I have crawled all over this thing and I can't for the life of me find the relays. Going to send Kevin and Adam an email.


There has to be two CMC relays, they are a black plastic housing about 1.5” square with a metal tab and hole on each of them. One has a green wire (green grass down) and one has a blue wire (blue sky up). Likely around the battery and fuse area. You can see the blue and green wire on the ones in the second photo.


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## POCtied

lost my top right nut & bolt, lower left nut, other two were loose. not sure when it happened, but glad I noticed leaving for the coast at 9:30pm, would have made for an awkward morning on the water as the tiller arm suddenly ripped out of my hand and everything gets quiet....apparently not a common occurrence, I must be special


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## Smackdaddy53

POCtied said:


> lost my top right nut & bolt, lower left nut, other two were loose. not sure when it happened, but glad I noticed leaving for the coast at 9:30pm, would have made for an awkward morning on the water as the tiller arm suddenly ripped out of my hand and everything gets quiet....apparently not a common occurrence, I must be special


The slide bolts on the microjacker? That’s crazy because the plate is threaded and the nut should be a nylock. Double insurance


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## POCtied

Yes. I agree. Was shocked. I will either replace the unit or rethread when I re power.


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## ifsteve

Smackdaddy53 said:


> There has to be two CMC relays, they are a black plastic housing about 1.5” square with a metal tab and hole on each of them. One has a green wire (green grass down) and one has a blue wire (blue sky up). Likely around the battery and fuse area. You can see the blue and green wire on the ones in the second photo.
> View attachment 116806
> View attachment 116808


Yeah I know what they look like. I'll go back downstairs and look again but I sure can't see them.


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## Smackdaddy53

ifsteve said:


> Yeah I know what they look like. I'll go back downstairs and look again but I sure can't see them.


What kind of switch do you have for the jackplate?


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## ifsteve

Smackdaddy53 said:


> What kind of switch do you have for the jackplate?


Its two big buttons about the size of a thumb zip tied to the throttle handle. And I went back down and looked again and I can't find any relays.


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## Smackdaddy53

ifsteve said:


> Its two big buttons about the size of a thumb zip tied to the throttle handle. And I went back down and looked again and I can't find any relays.


I don’t think the plate can be operated directly from the switch without going through relays. Can you follow the black and white wires ftom the jackplate back and see where they tie in?


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## ifsteve

The only "wire" I see comes off the top of the jackplate and it goes inside the engine.


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## Smackdaddy53

That wire has a black and white wire inside. It should plug into a black connector then run to the plugs that go to the relays then relays should go to the switch and power.


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## CPurvis

ifsteve said:


> Was out yesterday and my micro jacker stopped working. I suspect its the switch on the throttle handle. The jack plate would move down but no response when I tired to raise it up. Anything to check besides that switch? Biggest issue is that the skiff runs more efficiently with the plate up about 2" and yesterday the water was so low that several times I had to idle or use the TM quite a ways to get deep enough to be able to jump up on place since I couldn't raise the motor up.


Check that little 5 amp fuse holder. They are junk!! I had a similar issue and found the 5 amp fuse holder was corroded and not making good contact. Replaced it with a better fuse holder and everything worked fine. Also to check the actuator by unpluging the the black and white wire and remove the wires out of the plug harness and touch the black wire to the positive on a battery and the white wire the the negative. This will make the actuator go either up or down. You can then reverse it to make it go the opposite direction.


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## ifsteve

I appreciate the help guys but I am just gonna have to talk to East Cape to get the real story from them.
I followed the black line into the engine housing and it comes up into the bottom and there are a bunch of cables in there and no way I can tell what is what. As to the little 5 amp fuse holder. I have a bunch of fuse holders I can see in the engine housing. Again, no way I can tell what is what. But no matter when the all the lines come into the hull from the rigging hose I can not find any kind of connectors or relays.


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## Smackdaddy53

Pretty sad when a boat rigger leaves wires and fuses where you need to call them to troubleshoot a simple issue. I hope you figure it out. Maybe you have the first “no relay” model I’ve ever seen.


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## CPurvis

ifsteve said:


> I appreciate the help guys but I am just gonna have to talk to East Cape to get the real story from them.
> I followed the black line into the engine housing and it comes up into the bottom and there are a bunch of cables in there and no way I can tell what is what. As to the little 5 amp fuse holder. I have a bunch of fuse holders I can see in the engine housing. Again, no way I can tell what is what. But no matter when the all the lines come into the hull from the rigging hose I can not find any kind of connectors or relays.


The wire coming of the top of the unit is actually two wires inside a protective sheath. Those are the black and white wires that I am talking about. Here are pics of what you should be looking for.


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## CPurvis

CPurvis said:


> The wire coming of the top of the unit is actually two wires inside a protective sheath. Those are the black and white wires that I am talking about. Here are pics of what you should be looking for.
> View attachment 116908
> View attachment 116910


The inline 5 amp fuse is shown in the top picture with the purple wire next to the inline breaker.


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## tjtfishon

ifsteve said:


> So for an idiot like me how do I determine if its the relay or the switch?


Look at the little schematic on the relay. Figure out which terminals supply 12v power and ground to your component. Use a jumper wire to complete that circuit and very briefly operate the switch. If your component moves this way but not with the relay plugged in your relay is bad.
For the more advanced method you can supply power and ground to the relay coil and use an ohm meter to see if the coil succeeds in completing the circuit.


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## ifsteve

So one of the guys at East Cape called me and told me where to look. The relays are indeed inside the engine cowling. Nothing really made them look any different than any other relay but once he walked me through it I find them easily. Trouble shot the system while I was on the phone with him and we determined it was the switch on the throttle. So a new one is being sent today. Shouldn't be too bad to wire in the new switch....he also walked me down the steps to get inside the console to make it easiest to get at the wiring. Thanks for all the help.


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## Smackdaddy53

ifsteve said:


> So one of the guys at East Cape called me and told me where to look. The relays are indeed inside the engine cowling. Nothing really made them look any different than any other relay but once he walked me through it I find them easily. Trouble shot the system while I was on the phone with him and we determined it was the switch on the throttle. So a new one is being sent today. Shouldn't be too bad to wire in the new switch....he also walked me down the steps to get inside the console to make it easiest to get at the wiring. Thanks for all the help.


Glad you got it licked. Keep an eye on those slide bolts so they aren’t too tight or too loose.


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## POCtied

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Glad you got it licked. Keep an eye on those slide bolts so they aren’t too tight or too loose.


This is very important, I didn’t address mine when I noticed a little “tilt” on the torturously slow movement, ended up losing 3 of 4 bolts. 
The Bob’s is worth every bit of extra weight btw, smooth and fast.


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## CKEAT

How right do the bolts need to be? Mine is not super smooth.


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## CKEAT

Tight


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## Chance Rodgers

Stevie said:


> I recently learned that all JPs (Atlas and Bob’s) are now made in China. They don’t use de-tinned wire. Best to rewire them before installing.


Did you rewire the actuator too? I have the same problem it seems like a lot of people have. Had it for 2 months, actuator went bad and just got the replacement in. Wanna know if I should do that before installing it. Thanks


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## elsillo

m32825 said:


> Called TH Marine and they forwarded me to CMC Marine. They listened to my description and sent me a replacement actuator. I paid shipping both ways (return to avoid core charge). Easy swap out and I'm back in business. I'd rather it hadn't died in the first place, but I'm happy with their customer support!
> 
> -- Carl


I called Today and they were strict on their 1 year warranty  My jackplate stopped working this weekend with only 76 hours on the motor and got the boat from SaltMarsh on June 2018 so right at the 2 year mark. They "helped" me out with only charging me $299 for the actuator, I did everything they advised and what I read off everyone's comments and jumped the cables to the battery itself and well nothing (bad actuator) so I guess once it arrives I can start swapping them out, this is the first thing that goes bad on the skiff in these 2 years.


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## Zika

Stevie said:


> I recently learned that all JPs (Atlas and Bob’s) are now made in China. They don’t use de-tinned wire. Best to rewire them before installing.


Stevie, not doubting you, but how did you verify this? Through the companies?


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## JC Designs

Made in USA! Nothing but Bob’s for me!


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## Smackdaddy53

elsillo said:


> I called Today and they were strict on their 1 year warranty  My jackplate stopped working this weekend with only 76 hours on the motor and got the boat from SaltMarsh on June 2018 so right at the 2 year mark. They "helped" me out with only charging me $299 for the actuator, I did everything they advised and what I read off everyone's comments and jumped the cables to the battery itself and well nothing (bad actuator) so I guess once it arrives I can start swapping them out, this is the first thing that goes bad on the skiff in these 2 years.


I went through 3 actuators and sold the JP after I replaced the third one and it last that guy two months then burned up. Trash. Bad design. BOB’S from now on.


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## elsillo

Smackdaddy53 said:


> I went through 3 actuators and sold the JP after I replaced the third one and it last that guy two months then burned up. Trash. Bad design. BOB’S from now on.


Well I already placed the order for the replacement if it doesn’t last that long I might consider the bobs JP after this. Thanks!


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## elsillo

So I need your help, I received the new actuator and started making the swap but it appears the top bolt is stuck and wont come out, I have tried with WD40, hammer, wrench, etc.. and nothing any tips or tricks?


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## JC Designs

Heat, heat, and more heat.


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## devrep

JC Designs said:


> Heat, heat, and more heat.


I got a new actuator on warranty about 2 years ago. had to cut the old one off. tried heat.


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## CKEAT

I had some frozen bolts aluminum on stainless and used this, let it sit and it worked


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## devrep

blaster is great stuff but I tried that too.


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## CKEAT

It took three applications and about 3 hours back and forth Soaking and I finally broke the two bolts in question free.

May be worth a shot, I thought I was toast on them as well. 

a hard lesson in the need for a break down and some tef gel every year or two. 

reworked my trailer a bit as well and had some tough customers there too, I live by anti seize and corrosion inhibitors.


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## elsillo

So I have tried the Blaster, continued with the wrench, hammer, torched it and it does not budge at all, almost seems like its welded to the spacers  I guess I'm going to have to cut it and just order the bolt and spacers again.


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## devrep

honestly I didn't feel bad sending it back cut. if they had taken any precautions to prevent galling in manufacture it would not have happened.


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## Gonz

CKEAT said:


> It took three applications and about 3 hours back and forth Soaking and I finally broke the two bolts in question free.
> 
> May be worth a shot, I thought I was toast on them as well.
> 
> a hard lesson in the need for a break down and some tef gel every year or two.
> 
> reworked my trailer a bit as well and had some tough customers there too, I live by anti seize and corrosion inhibitors.


Do you know if there is alternative for Tef-Gel that prevents galling? I don't mind paying the price if it works, it just seems hard to find locally in Central Texas.


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## Smackdaddy53

Gonz said:


> Do you know if there is alternative for Tef-Gel that prevents galling? I don't mind paying the price if it works, it just seems hard to find locally in Central Texas.


TefGel is best, I use it on a lot of skiffs and also on my tractor, lawnmower, truck, cars etc. everything...


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## Gonz

Smackdaddy53 said:


> TefGel is best, I use it on a lot of skiffs and also on my tractor, lawnmower, truck, cars etc. everything...


I've never heard of it until a few weeks ago but, I guess I'll just order it online and wait for it. I had the spacers seize on to the bolt for my jackplate and ended up cutting/ hammering the bolt out. I'm not interested in having this issue again any time soon. I was just hesitant on spending over 30 bucks for a couple ounces of that stuff. Thanks for the feedback!


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## Smackdaddy53

Gonz said:


> I've never heard of it until a few weeks ago but, I guess I'll just order it online and wait for it. I had the spacers seize on to the bolt for my jackplate and ended up cutting/ hammering the bolt out. I'm not interested in having this issue again any time soon. I was just hesitant on spending over 30 bucks for a couple ounces of that stuff. Thanks for the feedback!


It was originally designed by Australian sailers and has my stamp of approval for whatever that is worth. I bought a 2oz tub about 8 years ago for about $40 and still have about 1/8 of it left after using it on just about everything I own and 50 client’s boats, motors and trailers.


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## Gonz

Smackdaddy53 said:


> It was originally designed by Australian sailers and has my stamp of approval for whatever that is worth. I bought a 2oz tub about 8 years ago for about $40 and still have about 1/8 of it left after using it on just about everything I own and 50 client’s boats, motors and trailers.


Nice! The first one I saw online was 33.00 for .25oz (3cc)! I was about to say screw that and get some lithium grease instead but, I just had to look a little more to find the 2oz. tub. I’m fine with paying that much for a couple ounces.
That is seriously good to know though. I mainly fish saltwater so I plan on getting as much as can out of that tub.


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## CKEAT

It doesn’t take much. It’s worth the cost. Buy tef gel


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## Gonz

CKEAT said:


> It doesn’t take much. It’s worth the cost. Buy tef gel


Good to know. It’s on order now. Thanks guys


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## Capteasterling

I've had a few years of trouble free experience with my Micro Jacker, I ran the wiring and relays inside the engine cowling. 

Tef-Gel is no joke the very best. Particularly good for dissimilar metals, i.e. stainless hardware into aluminum


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## Smackdaddy53

Capteasterling said:


> I've had a few years of trouble free experience with my Micro Jacker, I ran the wiring and relays inside the engine cowling.
> 
> Tef-Gel is no joke the very best. Particularly good for dissimilar metals, i.e. stainless hardware into aluminum


You are lucky. Go buy a lottery ticket or ten!


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## POCtied

Smackdaddy53 said:


> You are lucky. Go buy a lottery ticket or ten!


Smack, super excited to get the brand new Micro Jacker that was just installed on the soon to be new to me skiff 😂 hopefully it lasts a hundred hours or so....


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## Smackdaddy53

POCtied said:


> Smack, super excited to get the brand new Micro Jacker that was just installed on the soon to be new to me skiff 😂 hopefully it lasts a hundred hours or so....


Yeah those are about to all be HMP Nano plates and possibly some On the Fly powered plates.


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## POCtied

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Yeah those are about to all be HMP Nano plates and possibly some On the Fly powered plates.


yep, pretty unfortunate


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