# Do I need a mechanic or a priest?



## SomaliPirate (Feb 5, 2016)

I had some issues with my two stroke yammy 60 on Saturday. After a couple of hours of idling around oyster bars, turning the motor on and off a few times it wouldn't crank when it was time to leave. The motor turned over very slowly, as if the starting battery was run down. Tilt/trim, chartplotter and Powerpole also run off this battery and they were working fine. With each successive turn of the key, the motor turned more slowly, again like a worn down battery. Before trying to crank it, it had sat off and tilted up for about 45-50 minutes while I was poling. Fortunately, I was close enough to the ramp to just trolling motor it back.
I got it home and put a volt meter on the battery-showed almost 13 volts. I then hooked it to the muffs and it fired up instantly. My first thought was corroded or lose connections somewhere. I checked the battery terminals, solenoid and starter connections: All were tight and looked great. The ignition key switch is only about a year old and was professionally installed so I'm thinking that's probably not the issue. I'm thinking maybe it's a solenoid issue, but I thought when they went, it was generally an all or nothing deal? Could so much idling without ever revving the motor have caused some kind of vapor lock weirdness type issue? Do I just need to fling holy water at it? Any ideas? For reference, It's a two stroke Yamaha 60, battery is a Odyssey PC1100 which is around a year old.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

This is why I love tillers! Especially those with a pull cord and elec start


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## SomaliPirate (Feb 5, 2016)

yobata said:


> This is why I love tillers! Especially those with a pull cord and elec start


grrrr


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## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

The first thing I'd do is take your battery to any parts store that has a load tester and find out just what condition it's in... Entirely possible that you had enough residual charge to fire your motor after the battery sat a few hours. An alternative to having it tested is simply to make a point of charging it to full capacity then using it again to see if you run into any issues. Usually when one of my batteries can't cut the mustard - it's clear evidence that it's on it's last legs and will need to be replaced... 

If you took your rig to a competent tech the first thing they'd do (after checking all the connections, and verifying that your starter system is functioning properly, etc.) would be to verify that your motor's charging system is working properly... My last battery failure was two weeks ago at 11pm out under a bridge in Biscayne Bay... since I always rig any skiff with two batts and the correct switch.. it was a simple matter to switch to battery #2 and we were back in business. The very next day my old starting battery was replaced with a new one... By the way I've gone through this a fair number of times over the years and rarely ever have had a standard battery last more than three years - and that's in hard commercial service getting used a bunch more than most weekend warriors do when they're running every weekend... When your rig sits a lot don't be surprised to have battery issues.

Hope this helps, post up what you learn about your rig...


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## SomaliPirate (Feb 5, 2016)

lemaymiami said:


> The first thing I'd do is take your battery to any parts store that has a load tester and find out just what condition it's in... Entirely possible that you had enough residual charge to fire your motor after the battery sat a few hours. An alternative to having it tested is simply to make a point of charging it to full capacity then using it again to see if you run into any issues. Usually when one of my batteries can't cut the mustard - it's clear evidence that it's on it's last legs and will need to be replaced...
> 
> If you took your rig to a competent tech the first thing they'd do (after checking all the connections, and verifying that your starter system is functioning properly, etc.) would be to verify that your motor's charging system is working properly... My last battery failure was two weeks ago at 11pm out under a bridge in Biscayne Bay... since I always rig any skiff with two batts and the correct switch.. it was a simple matter to switch to battery #2 and we were back in business. The very next day my old starting battery was replaced with a new one... By the way I've gone through this a fair number of times over the years and rarely ever have had a standard battery last more than three years - and that's in hard commercial service getting used a bunch more than most weekend warriors do when they're running every weekend... When your rig sits a lot don't be surprised to have battery issues.
> 
> Hope this helps, post up what you learn about your rig...


Thanks for the advice. It's been on the onboard charger for about 48 hours now and showing full charge so I'll try to fire her up tonight and see where that goes. I'm lucky enough to have a Odyssey dealer here in town so I can bring the battery in this week for a load test and see where that leads. A solenoid is 30 bucks and the motor is going on 18 years old so I'll replace that just to be sure. I'll keep everyone posted, and again thanks for the help!


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## matauman (Nov 4, 2014)

Re: grrrrr

Not sure about Yamaha but my 2 stroke merc 60 has a pull cord in the cowling. This is my fall back plan if my battery bites it when I'm out.
It doesn't take much juice to excite the coil to fire the spark plugs when you don't engage the starter motor. 
Although, not sure how much fun pull starting a 3 cylinder will be.
Anyone ever start one by hand?


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

Had a similar problem with a Yamaha 90 2-stroke. A new rectifier/regulator fixed it.


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## topnative2 (Feb 22, 2009)

IMHO--Load testers are useless.


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

My dad pull started a Yami 70 a few times after the battery got ran down. It worked without excessive cussing if I remember properly.

Nate


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

WhiteDog70810 said:


> My dad pull started a Yami 70 a few times ader the battery got ran down. It worked without excessive cussing if I remember properly.
> 
> Nate


I have a 90hp 2 stroke 3 cylinder Yamaha That I pull started just once to see how hard it would be, and it was actually pretty easy. I made a pull rope just the right length with a stout wood dowel for the handle and keep it in my tool box along with a number 3 phillip's screwdriver to access the flywheel.


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## Surffshr (Dec 28, 2017)

I might be misremembering, but I know I had an orange handled pull start rope that came with my last two motors. Never considered using either as the first was a 200 Yamaha 2s, and the second is a 150 VMax 2s. I’ve always had one on the boat though.


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## SomaliPirate (Feb 5, 2016)

Vertigo said:


> Had a similar problem with a Yamaha 90 2-stroke. A new rectifier/regulator fixed it.


Thanks, I'll check that out as well.


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## SomaliPirate (Feb 5, 2016)

It has a pull rope under the cowl, but I was literally only 300 or 400 yards from the ramp so I was just lazy and TM'd in. It got me to thinking though. I really need to make sure the pull rope is in good condition and practice starting it in a non-emergency situation.


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## Whiskey Angler (Mar 20, 2015)

topnative2 said:


> IMHO--Load testers are useless.


Agreed.
"Hey Battery Salesman, Is this battery bad, do I need a new one?"
"Yes you do."


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## tjtfishon (Feb 9, 2016)

topnative2 said:


> IMHO--Load testers are useless.


the old VAT-40 load testers that actually put a load on the battery to test it were awesome. The new ones simulate a load electronically and sometimes it is hard to get a battery to show failed even when it is.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

matauman said:


> Re: grrrrr
> 
> Not sure about Yamaha but my 2 stroke merc 60 has a pull cord in the cowling. This is my fall back plan if my battery bites it when I'm out.
> It doesn't take much juice to excite the coil to fire the spark plugs when you don't engage the starter motor.
> ...


I’ve had to pull start a Yamaha F70 and it was easy.


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## matauman (Nov 4, 2014)

Thanks for the response Smackdaddy53, I hope I never have to do it but like the idea.


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## Pole Position (Apr 3, 2016)

matauman said:


> Re: grrrrr
> Anyone ever start one by hand?


As a word of caution, dont stand anywhere near the guy who is pulling the cord unless you really enjoy being popped in the face w/ the starter cord. Ask me how I know.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

matauman said:


> Thanks for the response Smackdaddy53, I hope I never have to do it but like the idea.


We were 40 miles from the nearest civilization or ramp on an endless sand flat about a foot deep and my buddy tried to start her up and no go. He was freaking out thinking we were going to have to wait for a boat to run by to get help. I took the cowling off and showed him the energency pull rope stuck to the inside top of the cowling and I thought he was going to hug me. Cranked her up and ran to the ramp and almost ran out of gas. 18 gallons in on the way and 17.8 gallons went back in on the way home. Pretty shady day.


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## CurtisWright (May 9, 2012)

Sounds like a battery to me, but like everyone said, get you an emergency pull rope.

Never in the history of time has anyone been able to pray an outboard problem away. They say god works in mysterious ways, but classic yamaha 2 strokes are usually anything but mysterious so its no use. A 2018 Honda, maybe...


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## SomaliPirate (Feb 5, 2016)

So here's where I am: I had two different places test my battery and it's supposedly good. I put it back in the skiff and hooked everything up. With everything off, the battery showed 12.76 volts on my multimeter. I cranked it up just fine and at idle, the meter showed 15.10 volts. Seems to be charging, right? I revved it up a little to around 1500rpm and the meter showed 14.5 volts. Drop it back to idle and it shows 15.10 again. Isn't it supposed to charge less at idle? I'm thinking now it may be, as Vertigo said, a rectifier issue. I called around to price one and holy hell they are a lot more expensive than the ones on the old OMC crap I used to run.


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## FlyBy (Jul 12, 2013)

CurtisWright said:


> A 2018 Honda, maybe...


Yeah, maybe, if you want to convert to Buddhism.


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## SomaliPirate (Feb 5, 2016)

Update: After further searching, I found a corroded spot in the positive battery cable. I replaced it and it's good to go. Ran like a scalded dog yesterday and I even got her slimed up a little. Thanks for all the input y'all!


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## makin moves (Mar 20, 2010)

I would still bless it with the holy water.


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## SomaliPirate (Feb 5, 2016)

makin moves said:


> I would still bless it with the holy water.


I spilled some of my bourbon and coke on the deck while I was washing it on sunday and said some holy words so I think that counts, right?


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## makin moves (Mar 20, 2010)

SomaliPirate said:


> I spilled some of my bourbon and coke on the deck while I was washing it on sunday and said some holy words so I think that counts, right?


With out a doubt!


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## Jim Lenfest (Jul 20, 2016)

matauman said:


> Re: grrrrr
> 
> Not sure about Yamaha but my 2 stroke merc 60 has a pull cord in the cowling. This is my fall back plan if my battery bites it when I'm out.
> It doesn't take much juice to excite the coil to fire the spark plugs when you don't engage the starter motor.
> ...


Generally speaking, in my experience, the more cylinders the easier to start. I figure it is because the displacement is spread out over time, not all cylinders compress at once. Now if you have ever had the opportunity to pull over a large single cylinder snowmobile engine, you will know exactly what I mean and why Honda puts compression releases on their single cylinder ATV's. Especially on a kick back and a pull cord is ripped from your cold hands at 100mph or at least it seams that way.


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## Jim Lenfest (Jul 20, 2016)

SomaliPirate said:


> Update: After further searching, I found a corroded spot in the positive battery cable. I replaced it and it's good to go. Ran like a scalded dog yesterday and I even got her slimed up a little. Thanks for all the input y'all!


Great, as I was leaning toward that rectifier too. But I also always say, make sure all connections are good. Cleaning a ground wire on my older GMC pickup, once fixed a major transmission problem. Remember, they are all electronically controlled now. No ground and they won't work right. Same with everything these days.


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Ah, my 140 doesn't have a pull cord not do I want to try it. I'm going to put a charger on my battery tomorrow


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## Jim Lenfest (Jul 20, 2016)

permitchaser said:


> Ah, my 140 doesn't have a pull cord not do I want to try it. I'm going to put a charger on my battery tomorrow


Does it have a cut out in the flywheel to wrap a pull cord around? If it is a 6 cylinder or even a 4, I bet it could be pulled over.


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## kylet (Jun 29, 2017)

I know this is old but I just saw this. Every 2s yamaha I've owned has done this. The fix (and I know you're going to think I'm screwing with you) trim the engine all the way up as high as it will tilt then trim it all the way back down and turn the key. What's happening is you are flooding the engine with repeated start/stops and mostly idling. It's a good idea once it does this and you get it started to make a little run and get the rpms up. I'm not a mechanic, but I have seen it over and over again.

That's why when you got home it fired up with no problem and the battery read fine.


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## Jim Lenfest (Jul 20, 2016)

kylet said:


> I know this is old but I just saw this. Every 2s yamaha I've owned has done this. The fix (and I know you're going to think I'm screwing with you) trim the engine all the way up as high as it will tilt then trim it all the way back down and turn the key. What's happening is you are flooding the engine with repeated start/stops and mostly idling. It's a good idea once it does this and you get it started to make a little run and get the rpms up. I'm not a mechanic, but I have seen it over and over again.
> 
> That's why when you got home it fired up with no problem and the battery read fine.



makes sense, the trimming up and down, dumps the carbs so that you dry up the gas in the cylinders before new gas arrives. I have done a similar thing, by disconnecting the gas line at the engine, cranking till I know all gas has been used or passed through the engine, then I reconnect the hose and try starting the engine again.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

kylet said:


> I know this is old but I just saw this. Every 2s yamaha I've owned has done this. The fix (and I know you're going to think I'm screwing with you) trim the engine all the way up as high as it will tilt then trim it all the way back down and turn the key. What's happening is you are flooding the engine with repeated start/stops and mostly idling. It's a good idea once it does this and you get it started to make a little run and get the rpms up. I'm not a mechanic, but I have seen it over and over again.
> 
> That's why when you got home it fired up with no problem and the battery read fine.


My 70TLRZ never has any issues, is this only on larger Yamahas?


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## Guest (May 16, 2018)

Somali’s problem was a bad cable. Idleing around a lot can cause a carbed motor to load up though. Usually opening the throttle up a bit will burn off this excess fuel. Never had to trim one out and back down to get it to run, anyone having to do this is either mixing too rich or carbs need adjusted because the idle fuel/air mixture is too rich. Just my opinion.


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## kylet (Jun 29, 2017)

Boatbrains said:


> Somali’s problem was a bad cable. Idleing around a lot can cause a carbed motor to load up though. Usually opening the throttle up a bit will burn off this excess fuel. Never had to trim one out and back down to get it to run, anyone having to do this is either mixing too rich or carbs need adjusted because the idle fuel/air mixture is too rich. Just my opinion.


If you want to experience it, spend a day starting and stopping with mostly idle operation. I can make it never happen as well, because more often than not you don't operate a boat like that. I learned about it from a member of Yamaha's service team that travels and supports tournament trails. It's not exclusive to carbureted engines either. You can take it for what its worth. It don't really matter to me, but I'd bet a paycheck that his engine would have turned over had he done like like it did when he got home.


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## kylet (Jun 29, 2017)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> My 70TLRZ never has any issues, is this only on larger Yamahas?


no, it's not only on larger yamahas. Just guessing though, I would imagine it would be more likely for it to happen on a larger engine. Ive seen it happen on 70's and 90's.


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## Guest (May 16, 2018)

kylet said:


> If you want to experience it, spend a day starting and stopping with mostly idle operation. I can make it never happen as well, because more often than not you don't operate a boat like that. I learned about it from a member of Yamaha's service team that travels and supports tournament trails. It's not exclusive to carbureted engines either. You can take it for what its worth. It don't really matter to me, but I'd bet a paycheck that his engine would have turned over had he done like like it did when he got home.


I wasn’t trying to argue, was simply stating that the OP found and solved his problem. I never say never, but can tell you that in 20 plus years as a factory certified Yamaha, Mercury, BRP, Suzuki tech. that I have never had an engine not turn over due to the flooded scenario you described. Now, If an engine is hydrolocked then it will turn over hard or not at all. That is a different problem all together though and if said motor is hydrolocking then it needs help. Tilting and draining the fuel might work but a bigger issue is the culprit.


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## kylet (Jun 29, 2017)

Boatbrains said:


> I wasn’t trying to argue, was simply stating that the OP found and solved his problem. I never say never, but can tell you that in 20 plus years as a factory certified Yamaha, Mercury, BRP, Suzuki tech. that I have never had an engine not turn over due to the flooded scenario you described. Now, If an engine is hydrolocked then it will turn over hard or not at all. That is a different problem all together though and if said motor is hydrolocking then it needs help. Tilting and draining the fuel might work but a bigger issue is the culprit.


 he got it home and cranked with no issues the same day as the problem. a corroded spot on the cable did not cause what was described in the op. if it was a cable issue he would have got nothing. not a slow turnover or a lagging turnover. it would have also shut his engine down if he was ever running and lost enough voltage to not start the engine. i'm sure the cable probably had corrosion like 90% of marine battery cables do, but his problem was solved weeks before he found the corrosion on the cable. he could have added a yeti sticker and that would have done the trick...


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## Guest (May 16, 2018)

kylet said:


> he got it home and cranked with no issues the same day as the problem. a corroded spot on the cable did not cause what was described in the op. if it was a cable issue he would have got nothing. not a slow turnover or a lagging turnover. it would have also shut his engine down if he was ever running and lost enough voltage to not start the engine. i'm sure the cable probably had corrosion like 90% of marine battery cables do, but his problem was solved weeks before he found the corrosion on the cable. he could have added a yeti sticker and that would have done the trick...


Ok, your the man! You got it figured out. Way to go!


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## kylet (Jun 29, 2017)

Boatbrains said:


> Ok, your the man! You got it figured out. Way to go!


Dude, you came in here basically saying what I have seen several times over and over can’t happen. I don’t need confirmation or applause. Just trying to help the guy out. I’m not post my merit. I understand you have 20 plus years as a mechanic on every outboard available. I also understand as you probably do as well that you would never see this issue in a shop. No engine diagnostics are going to show this. I don’t care either way if you believe me or not, but I’m going to respond to someone discrediting what I’ve seen regularly just because they claim they’ve never heard of it. If that bothers you then I’m sorry. Maybe we can meet, I’ll by you a beer and flood your engine sometime.


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## Guest (May 16, 2018)

I am sorry I offended you man. Was seriously trying not to. Just remember that the service team is there to keep that engine goin for the tournament. They then take that back to the engineers and work on the problem as a whole. These manufacturers can’t be telling average Joe he has to tilt his motor up and down after starting and stopping repeatedly or after a lot of idleing. The public will not accept this. I’m not calling you a liar because I have seen those guys drill holes in cowlings and midsections to bandaid a motor for a tournament before. But believe me they are recording everything they do for the engineers also. Thank you for helping the OP and anyone else that needs it though.


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## kylet (Jun 29, 2017)

Boatbrains said:


> I am sorry I offended you man. Was seriously trying not to. Just remember that the service team is there to keep that engine goin for the tournament. They then take that back to the engineers and work on the problem as a whole. These manufacturers can’t be telling average Joe he has to tilt his motor up and down after starting and stopping repeatedly or after a lot of idleing. The public will not accept this. I’m not calling you a liar because I have seen those guys drill holes in cowlings and midsections to bandaid a motor for a tournament before. But believe me they are recording everything they do for the engineers also. Thank you for helping the OP and anyone else that needs it though.


It wasn’t at a tournament. He’s a friend and we were fishing and filming. I can assure you he doesn’t take any engine to engineers. You’re still passively trying to discredit me. Dude, just don’t believe it and move on. If I was going off of info that I haven’t experienced then I would have told op that I had heard instead of experienced numerous times.


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## Guest (May 16, 2018)

Ok, now for starters I wasn’t attempting to discredit you or what you said! You got all butt hurt because I said the op fixed his problem! Nothing passive about me! I call it like I see it have my whole life. I did not say that your method would not work, I did say that it is not a viable solution for the problem! “ the market won’t allow it” Now here is a thought, OP said he found a bad/corroded terminal, this will cause heat build up each time he tries to crank it, after a few times this heat becomes excessive, now we have severe voltage drop, now we get boat loaded and drive home, cable has time to cool down, engine starts fine. The OP seems to have a little knowledge and was able to track down the problem. Now, if you want to have that beer one day... I’ll buy it! Heck, I’ll buy everyone on this forum a round if you can “flood” an engine the way you described that I can’t start without tilting all the way up then back down! Now you just made me sound like an arrogant a$$ “which anyone that knows me will tell you I am not” THANKS and best of luck to ya.


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## kylet (Jun 29, 2017)

Boatbrains said:


> Ok, now for starters I wasn’t attempting to discredit you or what you said! You got all butt hurt because I said the op fixed his problem! Nothing passive about me! I call it like I see it have my whole life. I did not say that your method would not work, I did say that it is not a viable solution for the problem! “ the market won’t allow it” Now here is a thought, OP said he found a bad/corroded terminal, this will cause heat build up each time he tries to crank it, after a few times this heat becomes excessive, now we have severe voltage drop, now we get boat loaded and drive home, cable has time to cool down, engine starts fine. The OP seems to have a little knowledge and was able to track down the problem. Now, if you want to have that beer one day... I’ll buy it! Heck, I’ll buy everyone on this forum a round if you can “flood” an engine the way you described that I can’t start without tilting all the way up then back down! Now you just made me sound like an arrogant a$$ “which anyone that knows me will tell you I am not” THANKS and best of luck to ya.


K


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## Guest (May 16, 2018)

SomaliPirate said:


> I had some issues with my two stroke yammy 60 on Saturday. After a couple of hours of idling around oyster bars, turning the motor on and off a few times it wouldn't crank when it was time to leave. The motor turned over very slowly, as if the starting battery was run down. Tilt/trim, chartplotter and Powerpole also run off this battery and they were working fine. With each successive turn of the key, the motor turned more slowly, again like a worn down battery. Before trying to crank it, it had sat off and tilted up for about 45-50 minutes while I was poling. Fortunately, I was close enough to the ramp to just trolling motor it back.
> I got it home and put a volt meter on the battery-showed almost 13 volts. I then hooked it to the muffs and it fired up instantly. My first thought was corroded or lose connections somewhere. I checked the battery terminals, solenoid and starter connections: All were tight and looked great. The ignition key switch is only about a year old and was professionally installed so I'm thinking that's probably not the issue. I'm thinking maybe it's a solenoid issue, but I thought when they went, it was generally an all or nothing deal? Could so much idling without ever revving the motor have caused some kind of vapor lock weirdness type issue? Do I just need to fling holy water at it? Any ideas? For reference, It's a two stroke Yamaha 60, battery is a Odyssey PC1100 which is around a year old.


And now that ya got me goin, if you read the original post... the motor was in the tilted up posistion for a while prior to him experiencing his problem!


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## Guest (May 16, 2018)

Now sir, I must apologize. You were truly offering sound advise. I can see how your method would work in the field to get one going. And I do hope to have that beer with you someday! I’ll buy.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

I'll take a free beer!


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## Guest (May 17, 2018)

Anytime Yobata!


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## Jim Lenfest (Jul 20, 2016)

The following post is for the person in the future, that reads all of this because he has a similar problem but still can not find it. I personally, on at least 2 occasions have had a starter that worked cold, but would bind up and crank slow as it got warm. Once was on a car, an old slant 6 Dodge, and once on a Mercury outboard. I always presumed that it was due to metals expanding in the bearing area as it warmed. But due to a comment in this thread, I am thinking maybe a hot wire within the starter as opposed to outside the starter may be a culprit as well. In any event, starters turn very freely, therefore, if things are turning slow, try turning it with your fingers or a screwdriver, just to see if it may be tightening up. In the case of the Slant 6, it was an elderly friend and he was away from home in an Ames parking lot. We ran in and grabbed a $3 set of sockets, some emery paper, maybe a couple of screwdrivers. I removed his starter, as suspected, the shaft end was all roughed up. I sanded it for 5-10 minutes, reassembled the starter, and she fired right up. I told him he better get a new starter asap. He did the opposite and probably got another year out of the starter before he had to break down and get a new one.


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## Jim Lenfest (Jul 20, 2016)

Another similar starter failure: Once I stopped into the local garage, I was probably 16 and in High School. Ralph the mechanic, who knew me well, asked me to watch inside the starter area of a VW van as he hit the key. He was wondering if maybe the solenoid was not working and wanted me to listen for the telltale click. As I watched, I heard the click, but also noticed that the heavy wire to the starter was literally expanding and drooping and would contract again when he released the key. It was obviously drawing a lot of current to cause this. I said, "Ralph, the starter is froze up, and explained what I saw", as to why I had come to that conclusion. He and the owner argued that it was fine just yesterday. I said, "well, it is seized up right now". Ralph then looked at the owner and said, "He bags groceries at the IGA store". I said, ok, and walked down the hill to work bagging groceries at that IGA. That evening Ralph and his wife walked in to do their grocery shopping and I asked, "What was wrong with the VW?" He replied, "Seized Starter". 

As Nationwide says, "Life comes at you quickly". I say, just because it worked ten minutes ago, does not mean it is not broke now.


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## Bruce J (Mar 4, 2018)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> I’ve had to pull start a Yamaha F70 and it was easy.


I used to pull start my 2-stroke 70 and it was easy as long as it had been run that day. It always started on the first pull. Cold starting it was another matter best left to one of my sons, but we never had to do it. Then I got an F70 and I tried to pull start it with no luck at all. I could barely budge it, maybe 1/4 turn. Don’t know what’s up with that, but it certainly increased my focus on proper battery maintenance. 

I’d also recommend carrying of those small battery packs or an emergency jump. The one I have can also charge a cell phone, etc.


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