# Steering wheel removal



## Lowtidelowlife (Aug 19, 2014)

That is the easier method


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## finbully (Jan 26, 2013)

You should be able to rent (free) a puller from Auto Zone or similar. That is the best way so you don't mushroom the attachment point by hitting with a hammer.


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## Chad Cohn (Mar 8, 2018)

Apparently I'm not understanding the hammer method because I just totally jacked the nut and threaded shaft. I was even using a piece of 2x4 to prevent the metal on metal contact.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Chad Cohn said:


> Apparently I'm not understanding the hammer method because I just totally jacked the nut and threaded shaft. I was even using a piece of 2x4 to prevent the metal on metal contact.


You have to put pressure on the wheel as you are tapping the nut/threaded shaft. @rcbrower had good advice, rent a puller...

also, youtube has a few videos on how to do it. search "boat steering wheel removal" lol


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## Chad Cohn (Mar 8, 2018)

Tried renting a puller but my autozone doesn't have one that fits.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Chad Cohn said:


> Tried renting a puller but my autozone doesn't have one that fits.


It just needs to fit around the base of the steering wheel, not the outsides where your hands go. Try O'Reilly or Discount Auto or NAPA... Someone will have it


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## Chad Cohn (Mar 8, 2018)

The hooks on it were too thick and couldn't get a hold. This wheel is a "destroyer" style so I can only grab from a very narrow gap and the bottom. I'm going to work on it some more this evening and hopefully I can get it off. I may check Harbor Freight today as well. Thanks for all of the help.


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## Capnredfish (Feb 1, 2012)

Just sort of 1 arm bear hug the wheel while tapping shaft with other hand. Put a throw away cheap nut on it if needed. Obviously move face to the side or you will make a dentist HB boat payment.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Chad Cohn said:


> The hooks on it were too thick and couldn't get a hold. This wheel is a "destroyer" style so I can only grab from a very narrow gap and the bottom. I'm going to work on it some more this evening and hopefully I can get it off. I may check Harbor Freight today as well. Thanks for all of the help.


I google "destroyer" steering wheels. It kind of looks like the one in this video, maybe this will be helpful


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## Chad Cohn (Mar 8, 2018)

Yeah I tried that last night, this damn wheel is stuck on good. I'm going to get my son try and help afternoon, hopefully the 2 of us can put enough pressure on it.


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## Zika (Aug 6, 2015)

Give the shaft a good spray down with PB Blaster first and let it sit for a bit. That stuff works wonders.


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## Chad Cohn (Mar 8, 2018)

Zika said:


> Give the shaft a good spray down with PB Blaster first and let it sit for a bit. That stuff works wonders.


I've used a 3rd of a can on it thus far. I do agree though, that stuff is great.


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## Capnredfish (Feb 1, 2012)

CRC freeze spray the shaft or heat the wheel.


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## Tilly_Copano (Feb 12, 2017)

I ran into this issue about a year ago and it was hell. Gear puller mushroomed out the shaft. I tried soaking in PB blaster, hitting with hammer but I ended up cutting off the entire steering shaft off. To save the wheel I took a torch to the wheel an bad had to punch the shaft out with a sledge. Good luck...


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## Zika (Aug 6, 2015)

Then as we said in the Navy, use a bigger hammer. 

Good luck. Saltwater corrosion is a bugger.


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## Chad Cohn (Mar 8, 2018)

I doubt it's saltwater corrosion as it is used mostly (98%) in fresh. I think it's just a mf'r and just on there real good. I've thought about heating the wheel but that does make me a bit nervous as it has a plastic shield behind the wheel. This is a 2010 Teleflex safe-t steering setup. I'm going to give it one more go today and if I can't get it off than it stays until I sell it.


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## not2shabby (Sep 14, 2016)

I agree with @Capnredfish and recommend using some heat / cold cycles. That, plus the penetrating oil you're using, should eventually do the trick. 

Consider the puller kit from AutoZone, not just the single gear puller. The kit comes with all sorts of attachments, various size jaws, and a pretty useful slide hammer. I think you could get creative with a combination of the kit components and get that thing off.


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## Chad Cohn (Mar 8, 2018)

Giving it one more go today and if it's still a bear than off to Harbor Freight I go.


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## Capnredfish (Feb 1, 2012)

Small tip plumbers torch. Directs heat to a very small area. Keep a soaked towel or something non flammable to shield plastic from heat. It doesn’t take much to expand wheel hub or shrink shaft. Think of something frozen in a Tupperware and you can’t get it out. One second under the sink on the container and that bond is broken.


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

alternative?
On occasion there maybe enough room to place a couple wedges between the back of the wheel and the gear/pump case. If the wedges don't get it off leave them in and then tap the shaft. I have pullers but I also have a selection of wood and a few steel wedges.


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## MariettaMike (Jun 14, 2012)

Back the castle nut off until there is one thread holding it. CREATE a harness out of rope that you can pull on or create tension in by any other mechanical means. Come along tied off on your garage door, poling platform, step ladder over the console. Get creative.

Then while you’ve got real good tension on the rope whack down on the castle nut with a 4# hammer. Don’t be scared.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

MariettaMike said:


> Back the castle nut off until there is one thread holding it. CREATE a harness out of rope that you can pull on or create tension in by any other mechanical means. Come along tied off on your garage door, poling platform, step ladder over the console. Get creative.
> 
> Then while you’ve got real good tension on the rope whack down on the castle nut with a 4# hammer. Don’t be scared.


This is the best way. If you take the nut all the way off you’ll screw up the threads with the hammer and when it comes loose you’ll probably lose some teeth and fall backwards and hit your head on the poling platform. I saw a guy do that once...


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## Chad Cohn (Mar 8, 2018)

I have literally tried everything suggested here (short of the come along because I don't have one) and I cannot get this mf'g thing off. So I'm done for now, I'm going to fish tomorrow and let it be. Nothing wrong with the wheel right now just want to replace it. The steering is starting to show some signs of age so I may just wait a bit and replace it or at least the cable. Thanks everyone for their suggestions and tips.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Chad did you try a small torch on the center bolt with penetrating oil? Not a friggin rosebud, just a hand held propane torch. Heat up the bolt hot hot then spray with penetrating oil and as it cools it will suck the oil into the lower tapered section. Let it completely cool then do it again about 3-4 times then try popping it off. The tapered section gets dry and sticks just like a drag link or ball joint on a vehicle’s front end. Once you get it off clean the inside of the wheel and the tapered section of the bolt and lube the wudruff key before installing the wheel again so the next guy (maybe you) won’t fight it.


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## Chad Cohn (Mar 8, 2018)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Chad did you try a small torch on the center bolt with penetrating oil? Not a friggin rosebud, just a hand held propane torch. Heat up the bolt hot hot then spray with penetrating oil and as it cools it will suck the oil into the lower tapered section. Let it completely cool then do it again about 3-4 times then try popping it off. The tapered section gets dry and sticks just like a drag link or ball joint on a vehicle’s front end. Once you get it off clean the inside of the wheel and the tapered section of the bolt and lube the wudruff key before installing the wheel again so the next guy (maybe you) won’t fight it.


I did try a torch but not the way you mentioned. I'll give it another shot tomorrow after I get off the lake.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Chad Cohn said:


> I did try a torch but not the way you mentioned. I'll give it another shot tomorrow after I get off the lake.


This works with just about any seized fastener. It expands and contracts the metal and helps break the tension plus draws the lube in as it cools. The trick is repeating it a few times.


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## Capnredfish (Feb 1, 2012)

Look. If the conventional ways are not working. Think outside the box. Remove the nut. Take the boat out, get up some speed, hang on real fing tight and aim for a sandbar. Should take care of the issue.


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## LowHydrogen (Dec 31, 2015)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Chad did you try a small torch on the center bolt with penetrating oil? Not a friggin rosebud, just a hand held propane torch. Heat up the bolt hot hot then spray with penetrating oil and as it cools it will suck the oil into the lower tapered section. Let it completely cool then do it again about 3-4 times then try popping it off. The tapered section gets dry and sticks just like a drag link or ball joint on a vehicle’s front end. Once you get it off clean the inside of the wheel and the tapered section of the bolt and lube the wudruff key before installing the wheel again so the next guy (maybe you) won’t fight it.





Chad Cohn said:


> I did try a torch but not the way you mentioned. I'll give it another shot tomorrow after I get off the lake.


That^ has never failed me, this what we used to do removing stuck pins/bushings on equipment/cranes, almost always works. After a few cycles with penetrating oil it'll come off, spraying the center pin/bolt not only draws the oil in the spray cools the bolt at a different rate than the hub. Works like a charm but keep everything else cool, boats are a lot easier to tear up/burn down than heavy equipment. 

@Smackdaddy53 I think most people on here likely won't know what you're talking about when you say rosebud tip.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

LowHydrogen said:


> That^ has never failed me, this what we used to do removing stuck pins/bushings on equipment/cranes, almost always works. After a few cycles with penetrating oil it'll come off, spraying the center pin/bolt not only draws the oil in the spray cools the bolt at a different rate than the hub. Works like a charm but keep everything else cool, boats are a lot easier to tear up/burn down than heavy equipment.
> 
> @Smackdaddy53 I think most people on here likely won't know what you're talking about when you say rosebud tip.


The flame is so fat it looks like a rosebud!


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## Chad Cohn (Mar 8, 2018)

I didn't get around to trying this yet but after our weather passes I'm hoping that I can back to it. If I had that torch I would probably end up burning this sucker to the ground. Had some honey-do's to take care of and get my 1.5 acres mowed before the rain gets here.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Use your head and you’ll be fine


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## Eventide (Feb 5, 2020)

I had the same issue with a 13 1/2” teleflex helm on a 3/4” tapered keyed shaft. Sprayed it with WD, nothin. Hit it at and upward angle, nothing. Got a puller from auto zone but couldn’t get it properly adjusted due to steering wheel shape(it’s not a stainless wheel) so took it back. Stared at it and drank a few beers, nothin. Here’s what finally worked, took the nut off drank another beer, then with the flat side of a ball peen hammer, I tapped the top of the shaft while lifting up in the wheel. Once I got a good rhythm I was able to hit the shaft a little harder. Took about 5 or 6 hits while lifting and turning the wheel and it finally started to give. After about the 10th hit the wheel popped right up. If you jack up those threads while your doing this, take a small file and try and clean them up some. You would be able to get the nut started again. Unless you had too many beers. Good luck.


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## Guest (Mar 5, 2020)

I have the correct tap! Also, a brass hammer is a great tool to have in the arsenal!


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## Guest (Mar 5, 2020)

Boatbrains said:


> I have the correct tap! Also, a brass hammer is a great tool to have in the arsenal!


I meant correct die! Was runnin’ hard earlier!


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Eventide said:


> I had the same issue with a 13 1/2” teleflex helm on a 3/4” tapered keyed shaft. Sprayed it with WD, nothin. Hit it at and upward angle, nothing. Got a puller from auto zone but couldn’t get it properly adjusted due to steering wheel shape(it’s not a stainless wheel) so took it back. Stared at it and drank a few beers, nothin. Here’s what finally worked, took the nut off drank another beer, then with the flat side of a ball peen hammer, I tapped the top of the shaft while lifting up in the wheel. Once I got a good rhythm I was able to hit the shaft a little harder. Took about 5 or 6 hits while lifting and turning the wheel and it finally started to give. After about the 10th hit the wheel popped right up. If you jack up those threads while your doing this, take a small file and try and clean them up some. You would be able to get the nut started again. Unless you had too many beers. Good luck.


That’s why you leave the nut on and sticking above the end of the threads. It also keeps it from flying off. Remember this trick if you ever need to remove a pitman arm, ball joint, tie rod etc off a vehicle!


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## Chad Cohn (Mar 8, 2018)

So apparently I am no where near as gifted at this as everyone else. I have tried every single tip provided in this thread and that wheel is going no where. Somehow I was lucky enough to break the bezel too. So for now this wheel stays put. The steering has felt a little "sloppy" for a little while so I'm going to just replace it and until then I'm going to just run with this wheel. Boat is 10 years old and has the original steering so I guess it's time to upgrade. It's not unsafe by any stretch but definitely feels looser than when I first purchased the boat. To quote @Boatbrains, it is what it is!!!!!


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