# 99' Yamaha Tilt Trim Seal Kit



## NativeBone (Aug 16, 2017)

TroutTrent said:


> Looks like my 99' C40TLRX has sprunk a slow leak around the tilt trim piston. the repair seems easy enough, but I cant seem to find a rebuild kit or seal kit. Is there such a thing or should I buy each seal individually on boats.net? Also any experience with getting that nut off with the 4 holes? I assume that a spanner will work but not sure of the size. I get the feeling that could make or break the repair.
> 
> if anyone else has any experience or pit falls love to hear em now
> 
> ...


Check this place out Trim & Tilt Unit Repair | Trim & Tilt Rebuild Services
Rebuilt my '09 yama. I also purchased the tools from them to make the seal replacement easier for me. There are some shade tree tooling that can me made but you run the risk of damage.


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## Poontangler (Jul 13, 2017)

I have used a huge pipe wrench to get the round nut off, the metal is soft and the jaws of the wrench will dig into them and mar the edges up a little bit, but I wasn’t too worried about it and just wanted to get it done. Just tried to keep it minimal and try not to slip and hit the ram, I think I taped those off a bit as well. Sprayed a bunch of pb blaster type stuff to possibly loosen first then got a really good grip and broke it loose, it was definitely on there good.


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## ek02 (May 8, 2012)

Measure the distance between the holes on the cap and the size of the holes in the cap. Should be 4mm holes. There are tools on E Bay that work fine if you have a way of keeping tension on the tool and they usually come with 4mm and 4.5mm pins. I used a 4 pin tool on my trim cylinders and used a piece of PVC on top of the tool and then let the engine rest against the PVC. Came right off with a breaker bar on the tool and a short piece of pipe on the breaker bar. I bought a tool with 3 pins for the tilt cylinder and made a tool with a split in it to put around the shaft and lowered the engine on it to put pressure on top of the tool. All I needed replaced were the shaft seals. The pins on the tools will pop out of the holes if you don't have pressure on top of them. I rebuilt the trim and tilt on another engine I had and unfortunately Boats.net has no complete kit. I had to order each seal and O-ring separately. There are plenty of videos on You Tube about resealing trim and tilt cylinders. Good luck on your repair. I think your engine has just the tilt cylinder. I think this is the tool you need, but measure before you order. Trim Tilt Pin Wrench AMT0004-38mmX4mm Remove Hydraulic Cylinders Trim For Yamaha It came with spare pins in case one breaks. I bought another 4 pin tool that had 4.5 and 4mm pins.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Heat the caps one at a time with a mini butane torch and stop before the paint starts smoking and move to the other one so the first one cools and keep doing this about 5-6 times. The heating and cooling of the threads will break the crust free and you can loosen with the tool. The two or three pin tools suck. Get this one so you spread the torque across four holes instead of two or three. Do as others stated and use a piece of pipe but use like 6” of aluminum pipe and use the weight of the outboard to hold the tool against the cap tight while you torque it. Hit with an impact tool and it will come loose. If you don’t do this and the pins oblong the holes even a little it will create a ramp and the pins will ride right out of the holes. Do it right the first time or you will end up needing a cold chisel to get the caps off hence destroying them. New caps are about $80 a pair...ask how I know.
The seals in my pics are for a Yamaha 70TLR but should be similar to your 40. You buy th one at a time from the schematic on boats.net
There’s one in the top of cap, one o ring under cap threads and a teflon split ring with a black seal under it. Get these four for each ram.


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## TroutTrent (Nov 29, 2016)

I love this website! thank you all so much.

ill be taking a 3 prong attack, 
1- ordering FSM138 replacement nut from 5 star marine (great to talk to)
2-ordering the tool (not sure what one) that yall recommended
3- getting the seals from boat.net

as i type this its 33F in east Tennessee and my list of skiff maintenance is getting longer each day. Will be fixing this, the center console bolts, trailer lights, and some other odds and ends as soon as i am able to get a warmish dry day. 

i need to be ready for spring!


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## ek02 (May 8, 2012)

The MT0006 4 pin tool would definitely be a better choice than a 3 pin, but will it fit over the eye on end of the shaft where the pin goes through? The 4 pin worked great on my trim cylinders, but It won't work on my lift cylinder. Yours may have a smaller eye.


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## TroutTrent (Nov 29, 2016)

I will need to use a 3 prong tool since i wont be able to get the tool around the piston. I measured the distance between the pin-holes and its 45mm. Many of the tools i have found wont work. Im hoping to buy a tool from 5-star marine and will call them on monday.


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## ek02 (May 8, 2012)

I thought about cutting a slot in my 4 pin tool to fit around the shaft. Your pins are spaced a lot further apart than mine. My Yamaha 90 2 stroke measures 38mm and so does my son's F40, both with 4mm pin holes.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

TroutTrent said:


> I will need to use a 3 prong tool since i wont be able to get the tool around the piston. I measured the distance between the pin-holes and its 45mm. Many of the tools i have found wont work. Im hoping to buy a tool from 5-star marine and will call them on monday.


That 5 Star Marine tool is junk if you have to put any torque on it. I broke the pins and the backup pins on mine with only a 1/2” ratchet, no breaker bar. 
If you really want to get those caps off I’d heat them and them cool several times and really try to keep the tool held down and apply perfect perpendicular force. If worse comes to worse get a 3/8” wide cold chisel and tap the caps off. You’ll have to create a notch for the tip to bite but it will get the caps loose.


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## TroutTrent (Nov 29, 2016)

ok bros, i got the tilt trim all disassembled and put back together. Note that the 6 ball-bearings on the inner piston were 100% a SOB. had t use vasoline to keep them in. Probably a terrible idea.

New questions for the gurus here. I have a Yammy outboard-book and watched all the Youtube videos i could find. They don't clearly define what hole is what on my 99'. I have changed the seals and re-installed the sub-assemblies and need to add fluid and purge air from my system. When I opened her up I opened what I just assumed was the hydraulic fill plug (19mm standard bolt #42 in the phonograph). it was empty which i thought was odd. There is another flat head screw up higher that seems to align directly with the cast flow line to the piston. I cannot get that screw out and don't want to ruin it if i don't need to open it. The Boats.net page isn't helping.

Now I need to fill it up and bleed the air out. Before I pump the wrong area full of hydraulic fluid I'd like a peer check. Do I have the correct hole(giggity)? I'm planning on squirting the hole labeled #43 full of hydraulic fluid unless told otherwise.


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## ET101 (Sep 10, 2020)

If its anything like mine, I assume you pull the motor and fill through motor opening. Shouldn't need to bleed system really... just cycle up and down a few times and it will self bleed.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

You need to get that top bolt out. Heat it with a torch and let it cool. Do this about ten times then stick the PROPER SIZE flat tip screwdriver in the slot and hit with a hammer a few times real hard then try to loosen. Rinse and repeat. If it still won’t come out drill it and use an ease out bit and replace the bolt.


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## TroutTrent (Nov 29, 2016)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> You need to get that top bolt out. Heat it with a torch and let it cool. Do this about ten times then stick the PROPER SIZE flat tip screwdriver in the slot and hit with a hammer a few times real hard then try to loosen. Rinse and repeat. If it still won’t come out drill it and use an ease out bit and replace the bolt.



so what is the lower bolt? is the top bolt just a air bleed hole?


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## ek02 (May 8, 2012)

It looks like #43 is the fill plug according to the parts list on Boats.Net. # 38 is a valve on the parts list. Maybe the manual valve in case the engine gets stuck in the up position? It looks like there are 2 # 38 manual valves with flat blade screw heads, one on each side of the reservoir. I'm not sure why there would be 2 valves.


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## TroutTrent (Nov 29, 2016)

ek02 said:


> It looks like #43 is the fill plug according to the parts list on Boats.Net. # 38 is a valve on the parts list. Maybe the manual valve in case the engine gets stuck in the up position? It looks like there are 2 # 38 manual valves with flat blade screw heads, one on each side of the reservoir. I'm not sure why there would be 2 valves.



I thinkk your right, I also have the manual release 90-degrees to the side. 

In the end i just opened the bottom bolt and filled the SOB up. She goes up and down so far and it looks like my leak is fixed. 

thanks for all your help Microskiff.


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