# Mounting a trolling motor



## mark_gardner (Mar 18, 2009)

they do sell expanding rubberized nuts and some other type of lag bolt/nut gizmo but before i went that route i'd seriously consider cutting some sort of access hole then covering with a cover plate that way you can thru bolt it which of course is your best bet, not being real familar with that particular boat its hard for me to say what your real options are :-/


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## TomFL (Oct 2, 2007)

SteveO, I had the same boat, and tried everything to get under that deck cap and get a backer nut inside. Not gonna happen. The 17T has an aluminum plate under the cap just for mounting a troller bracket through.

Here's what I used: http://www.toggler.com/products/snaptoggle/part_numbers.php

I replaced the bolts with SS flathead/countersink ones. This setup is STRONG. 

My particular motor I mounted on a quick release bracket, but yours will be very similar.

http://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1247153549/0

Good luck, post questions if you have them. 

-T


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## sjd0004 (Mar 7, 2010)

That is a great idea and will most likely be the route I take. I was considering mounting the motor on the port side flush with the gunnels because if I mounted it on the tip of the bow at an agle there would be too much shaft sticking off the side of the boat and I would have to move the running light. Do you see any problem with this? Also where did you put your batteries?

Thanks alot


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## TomFL (Oct 2, 2007)

> That is a great idea and will most likely be the route I take. I was considering mounting the motor on the port side flush with the gunnels because if I mounted it on the tip of the bow at an agle there would be too much shaft sticking off the side of the boat and I would have to move the running light. Do you see any problem with this? Also where did you put your batteries?
> 
> Thanks alot


The 17T hull doesn't need much for trolling motor shaft length, so it sounds like you have a trolling motor with a shaft that is longer than you need. Not hard to trim it shorter if you want to, and this would keep that motor from overhanging the gunnels when in the stowed position. 

The answers to your battery rigging questions can be had on page 3 here: http://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1247153549/30


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## cutrunner (Jun 8, 2010)

dang tom, how many boats do u have? lol


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## mark_gardner (Mar 18, 2009)

> dang tom, how many boats do u have? lol



prolly a better question would be: how many boats have you *had*??   ;D


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## aflatsnut (Feb 12, 2010)

Contact Mavrick boats in Ft Pierce, they will give you the location of the aluminum plate. Then just drill and tap, use lots of neversieze or Teflon coating on the stainless bolts if you ever want to remove them.


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## TomFL (Oct 2, 2007)

> > dang tom, how many boats do u have? lol
> 
> 
> Yeah.... Went through a few looking for the perfect boat last year. Wife was not impressed at all....
> ...


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## FSUfisher (Jul 16, 2007)

> SteveO, I had the same boat, and tried everything to get under that deck cap and get a backer nut inside. Not gonna happen. The 17T has an aluminum plate under the cap just for mounting a troller bracket through.
> 
> Here's what I used: http://www.toggler.com/products/snaptoggle/part_numbers.php
> 
> ...


Thanks Tom, I found this very helpful. I was brainstorming to figure out how to mount my troller and decided to suck it up and go this route. The Togglers were well priced and are almost too good to be true. The guy who invented these is a genius!


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## chew (Feb 26, 2010)

there are alot of nifty things to mount trolling motors in hard to reach places. we use ss droptoggles. sounds like a lowes iteam, but your local marine parts store should have them on the shelf. just like toggles bolts for drywal, but these are like plastic ziptie sides with a ss nut in the bottom, so as you tighen ur bolts down. the plastic simply gives way as the nut pulls into your deck. I have used the alot in rigging for places with no acces to a second hand. hope it helps


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