# Sanding floor of Gheenoe



## Back Country (Dec 30, 2017)

Sorry for the funky placement of the pics. Still on the learning curve.


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## Guest (Aug 27, 2018)

Ok, you need to sand/grind to bare glass! Make sure no paint or gelcoat is where you need to achieve a bond. Make sure there are no shinny spots and you should get a good bonding surface. Now that you’ve washed it with soap and water... don’t need to again. Wipe with acetone followed by a good wax and grese remover before glassing to remove any residual contaminates. Kinda tough to tell from the pics, but looks to me like you need to do some more sanding.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Here is what I would do now that you have sanded:

Get some DEP purple cleaner/degreaser and scrub. Then blast with a pressure washer. Turn it over for a couple days and let it dry.

Then I would wet it out and lay the cloth in. There will be enough area that the epoxy sticks and will never cause an issue. If you were making a different type of repair then I would tell you to grind away, but not in this case. If you do you will be grinding the glass there to Kleenex thin and that is not a good thing.

You've sanded enough - move along.


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## Back Country (Dec 30, 2017)

DuckNut said:


> Here is what I would do now that you have sanded:
> 
> Get some DEP purple cleaner/degreaser and scrub. Then blast with a pressure washer. Turn it over for a couple days and let it dry.
> 
> ...


Yeah, I was wondering if that might be the case. Thanks.


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## RunningOnEmpty (Jun 20, 2015)

Wow did they get a clog in the resin line to the chopper gun?


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## Back Country (Dec 30, 2017)

DuckNut, I've looked online and can't find DEP Purple cleaner/degreaser; I did however find ZEP Industrial Purple Cleaner and Degreaser --- is that the stuff you use?


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Back Country said:


> DuckNut, I've looked online and can't find DEP Purple cleaner/degreaser; I did however find ZEP Industrial Purple Cleaner and Degreaser --- is that the stuff you use?


My typo...that's it


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## Fishcally Irresponsible (Jun 26, 2018)

Unless you already have a well-stocked tool arsenal, Harbor Freight is your best friend for these projects. The best tool I've found for sanding the floor is a belt sander with 36 grit alumina zirconia belts (the blue ones). For smaller surfaces, I use a belt sander, and for really aggressive sanding, I use an angle grinder. If you go the angle grinder route, the 36 grit flapper discs work well, but the 24 grit carbide wheel is my new go-to if I need to remove a lot of material quickly.


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## 17376 (May 5, 2017)

Why not go with polyester since it’s made from polyester? Epoxy and polyester should never be used with one another... I know they say epoxy will stick to polyester.. however you will eventually have problems..


And I would use a tiger wheel( hard sand paper wheels for grinders) by the pictures you’re gonna need to sand it a bit more..


Also as DN said pressure wash and make sure it’s clean and dry..


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## Guest (Aug 28, 2018)

A little side note to go Travis’ polyester reccomendation, I have been doing repaires for over 20yrs using poly on poly and have never had any issues of delam! It’s all about the prep! Agitate that surface good and use different grits, believe it or not 120 grit will give more tooth than 30 grit. I like to use 50-80-120 when prepairing a surface for bonding, this gives deep and shallow grooves for the resin to adhere to.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Travis Smith said:


> Why not go with polyester since it’s made from polyester? Epoxy and polyester should never be used with one another... I know they say epoxy will stick to polyester.. however you will eventually have problems..


The epoxy to poly will not become an issue and neither would poly on poly for what he is using it for.

The community has spread so much propaganda about epoxy that people now think poly is taboo.

Epoxy certainly has its place in the boat world but if it is such a great thing why don't the builders all use it? There are only a few who use it and I believe they only use it on special order.

Also, if you take your half million dollar Contender in for repair because you hit a piling, they are going to fix it with the products it was build with - poly.

I know what you are saying and agree but if you read the first post on this repair (different thread) he had already made up his mind to use epoxy before even starting the project.


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## hendricksent25 (12 d ago)

Guest said:


> A little side note to go Travis’ polyester reccomendation, I have been doing repaires for over 20yrs using poly on poly and have never had any issues of delam! It’s all about the prep! Agitate that surface good and use different grits, believe it or not 120 grit will give more tooth than 30 grit. I like to use 50-80-120 when prepairing a surface for bonding, this gives deep and shallow grooves for the resin to adhere to.


 In what order do you use the sand paper when preping


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## hendricksent25 (12 d ago)

Guest said:


> A little side note to go Travis’ polyester reccomendation, I have been doing repaires for over 20yrs using poly on poly and have never had any issues of delam! It’s all about the prep! Agitate that surface good and use different grits, believe it or not 120 grit will give more tooth than 30 grit. I like to use 50-80-120 when prepairing a surface for bonding, this gives deep and shallow grooves for the resin to adhere to.


In what order do you use the sand paper when preping?


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## Charles Hadley (Jan 20, 2019)

You should just sell this to me


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