# 15' Triton project



## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

I would glass the underside of the new "floor" section instead of just coating with epoxy - even 6oz is better than nothing. I have used 3/8" marine fir for the deck of a skiff, but it had to be supported every 2 feet or so. I prefer not to use any mechanical fasteners (screws), but instead use thickened epoxy and nice big fillets..


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Cool looking boat he will have a blast in it. Hull looks like it will track if he plans on poling it. Also looks like it will take some chop. Best of luck. Can't wait to see it finish


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## mackman904 (Apr 20, 2016)

Thanks guys, I am a good carpenter but fairly new to fiberglass. I figured either you attach it mechanically and then glass it, not screw through the sealed fiberglass. I think I'll go with 1/2", there won't be any large spans. Is chop strand a good option for down and around the 1x2 I'm attaching as a rub rail or will 6 oz go around the corner and look good?


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## mackman904 (Apr 20, 2016)

View media item 782View media item 781
So I have made some headway over the last week. The subframe is pretty much done, rigging tubes, foaming today and I got the cap cut and fitted. I need to dried on hatches, do I buy the for the live well, storage etc.. or attempt to make them from the cutout? Is it doable and be fairly waterproof ? I'm not an advanced fiberglass guy like I am with carpentry.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

What is the run rail strip made from? 1x2 pine?


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## mackman904 (Apr 20, 2016)

yobata said:


> What is the run rail strip made from? 1x2 pine?


It's pvc cellulose. I'm doing a test on it to see how epoxy and glass effect it before I will use it permanently. I had it already. If not I'll use PT.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

If PT means pressure treated then that's a no no. The moisture and chemicals will lead to delamination from the glass. You would be better off with standard pine, I've used southern yellow pine in projects before and it does well with epoxy. 
Project is looking good bud.


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## mackman904 (Apr 20, 2016)

Yeah, I always heard it was a no no but someone on another forum had some reason that sounded right haha. I glassed a peice this pvc board and seemed to bond really well. So either the plastic board or pine it is.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Do you have more info on the pvc board? A link perhaps?? I'm interested


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## mackman904 (Apr 20, 2016)

yobata said:


> Do you have more info on the pvc board? A link perhaps?? I'm interested


It called Veranda board, Home Depot trim area.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Don't use the pic board. Period.

You say you are a carpenter...build it as you would using wood (dry wood, not pt) and then cover all of it with epoxy and go fishing.

The so called shortcuts will come back at you and you know this.


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## mackman904 (Apr 20, 2016)

ok, I flipped the 5 peices of the deck and gave them 2 good soaks in epoxy. Can I put a layer of glass on the bottom in sections or do I need to somehow attach all of peices perfectly together and glass into one piece. I know it a newbie question but making some sort of jig to hold it tightly together upside down scares me that it would be permanently off somewhere. Secondly if I glass it and put my fillets down can I flip each piece as it sets and attach permanently or does the under glass need to be cured before bonding?


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## DLBjaxbeach (Mar 12, 2011)

mackman904 said:


> ok, I flipped the 5 peices of the deck and gave them 2 good soaks in epoxy. Can I put a layer of glass on the bottom in sections or do I need to somehow attach all of peices perfectly together and glass into one piece. I know it a newbie question but making some sort of jig to hold it tightly together upside down scares me that it would be permanently off somewhere. Secondly if I glass it and put my fillets down can I flip each piece as it sets and attach permanently or does the under glass need to be cured before bonding?


With epoxy you should either work "wet on wet" or let it cure completely, then wash the surface with water to get rid of any blush, sand to create a rough surface for bonding and then glue. Wet on wet is best. You can let the first batch partially or mostly cure and then apply the next segment. If you apply and wait until the first batch is stiff, but still slightly tacky that will give you a good chemical bond between the two. Chemical bond > mechanical bond. 

As far as your question about the pieces, I can't answer that without seeing the structure you have supporting the deck. If the pieces are each landing on a crossmember or bulkhead so that all the joints are very well supported, then I imagine doing it in pieces would be ok. I would need to see what is underneath to say for sure though.


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## mackman904 (Apr 20, 2016)

I'm probably overdone with grid below, I figured last night I can do both large sections together and then the rear deck separate. I'm really only doing the bottom for sealing, the deck is very solid with no glass right now. I'm deciding between thickened epoxy as a bond or one of waterproof glues, anyone have a preference?


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Use thickened epoxy! It is impervious to moisture


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Thickened epoxy to glue it down.

You don't need glass on the underside.


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## Marlinman1990 (Apr 14, 2013)

Nice build! You could hot coat the underside with epoxy and wash it sand lay a layer of 6oz cloth if you wanted a little added strength. If not and all you care about is sealing the wood just mix up your epoxy and roll it on until it starts to sit on top instead of absorbing and squeegee it smooth. After it starts to gel not fully cure mix up some thickened epoxy and skim it with a squeegee. Just my opinion! Lol


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## mackman904 (Apr 20, 2016)

so I put on my third coat of epoxy an it indeed sat on top, so apparently it is well saturated. Now to finish routing wires, plumbing and the remainder of the foam this week and I should be glassing the deck and start on paint!


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

Hot coating the undersides of decks will work ok, but you still have to be careful of the wood checking. It's not a big deal on good marine plywoods, but can be a big issue on normal exterior ply. I prefer to use a light cloth, maybe 4-9oz, the cloth acts as a net and stops the checking from happening, plus adds some strength.


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## Marlinman1990 (Apr 14, 2013)

firecat1981 said:


> Hot coating the undersides of decks will work ok, but you still have to be careful of the wood checking. It's not a big deal on good marine plywoods, but can be a big issue on normal exterior ply. I prefer to use a light cloth, maybe 4-9oz, the cloth acts as a net and stops the checking from happening, plus adds some strength.


Yes I would definitely do cloth if at all possible but if you don't add cloth atleast seal the wood and saturate it so it is impervious to water like yobata said.


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## mackman904 (Apr 20, 2016)

I am going to put a a layer of 6 oz on the bottom just so I know I am not cutting a single corner. The project was going to be a cheap, quick, project with porch paint and a motor. It has evolved into something much more than planned but the things my son has learned and the time spent has been great so far.


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## jasonhinkel (Sep 30, 2015)

mackman904 said:


> I am going to put a a layer of 6 oz on the bottom just so I know I am not cutting a single corner. The project was going to be a cheap, quick, project with porch paint and a motor. It has evolved into something much more than planned but the things my son has learned and the time spent has been great so far.


That is what usually happens, it starts a weekend project and turns into a couple month project Pretty soon your yard will be a boat yard.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

Father son time is irreplaceable! just remember to wear gloves at all times when handling resin or you can develop an allergy, and to wear good n95 filter masks when sanding, young lungs don't need any glass dust causing issues later.


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## mackman904 (Apr 20, 2016)

Yeah we gave been diligent about gloves and masks. It's been great doing it together, so several costs of epoxy and now all of the deck has a layer of 6oz as well. Foam tomorrow and launch it to mark the waterline so I know where I can put the live well drain. There is no hull plate with max horsepower etc on this hull. Apparently when the previous owner cut the cap off he didn't save it. The boat is 14'7" , 73" wide at its widest and 63" at the transom. From floor to gunnel where you would sit it's 16", it was a cutdown 15" transom that has been leveled to 20". I'm thinking a 35hp would be great and a 25hp would do ok? What do you guys think, I guess the boat will weight 500#s max plus engine when finished.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

I think a 25-30hp would suite it well, 40hp might be to much. If you can get a lighter 2-stroke even better.


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## mackman904 (Apr 20, 2016)

Finally got some time.to work on the boat. She is officially ready for glass. Deck is glassed underneath, epoxy, glue and screwEd in. All wires and rigging pulled, foam filled etc.. I picked a nice 80'S 35hp evinrude, just waiting for the bracket to show up to hang it. So glass tomorrow, fair in and flip and fair for.paint. I've got my painter at work lined up next weekend so I'm under the gun. I'll try to upload pics but this.site sucks for that


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