# Jared's Bateau FS13 Build



## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

I will continue to update with progress.

Thanks,
Jared


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## pt448 (Mar 22, 2014)

Looking good. You're starting off on a tear. Keep up the good work.


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

Today I cleaned up the fiberglass repair on the stringer, cut the stringer ends to fit the transom, prepped the hull for gluing, and glued the spaces between the stitches.

I tried to mix one big batch of thickened epoxy and it kicked while I was in the middle of gluing, I rushed and made a mess of things in a couple spots. I was able to mix a second batch and clean things up, lesson learned.

Anyway, here are some additional pictures of the progress.


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## Capt. Ken O (Mar 23, 2016)

Any one who wants one of these I will be glad to build one for you.I have been building the Bateau boats since 1993.Give me a shout and I will give you a quote.If you want the wider version (SK 14) I will also give you a quote on this model. I am not interested in building any other models. I don't have the room and I am getting to old. to handle a larger size. I def. have the skills and the time. I have 32 yrs. in the construction industry, 17 yrs as a factory service technician. I have the tools, the knowledge and the time.Also an old Evinrude mechanic. I do small enginr repair and boat rigging. Change out steering systems, mechanical boat and motor repair etc.I am located in Crystal River.
Email me at [email protected] or [email protected]


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## CurtisWright (May 9, 2012)

I find it much easier and much cleaner to wet out 3" x 6" strips of glass on a piece of cardboard and then just lay them in place to stitch a seam together. Way easier and stronger than trying to smear epoxy paste everywhere.


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

So last night I didn't get much done. Came home from dinner with my fiancee Kayla, and decided to cut the zip ties off the boat. It was a bit nerve racking at first, as I was convinced the boat was going to fall apart again, but things went smoothly.










Tonight I got back to it. 

I started by putting some plastic over the frames and table to make sure I didn't glue those parts to the boat.










Then I sanded down any leftover mess from my initial gluing with a da sander and 80 grit paper.










Finally, I finished the thickened epoxy fillets and laid down the glass wet on top. I had a roll of 6in tape from a previous project, so used that for the seams, then used 4in for the transom. It all turned out pretty well with minimal bubbles, although I am sure I used much more epoxy than a more experienced builder would use. Anyway, here are the pictures.




























I am getting a bit nervous about the stability for my intended use as the build continues. I plan on using it for flyfishing on the flats up here on casco bay in the summer, and down in the keys next winter. I would like to be able to cover some ground so will probably mount a 6hp OB (most seem to be the same weight as 4hp). We will see when its done. Worst case scenario it was a good practice round for a build of the SK14 wide.


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

Unless you need a walker or are a complete klutz, stability is something that most people worry entirely too much about so long as they use these little boats for what they are designed for. If you are in shape enough run it standing up, you can fish it standing up. You'll step off it a few times as you are learning the feel of things, but that is just part of the fun. I will say that fishing out of a tippy boat is a really good core work out, but who doesn't need to work on his core?

The initial wood butchery and stitch and glue of the hull are the best part of the build. Things will get more tedious as you proceed, but the end product more than justifies the trouble. Keep up the good work.

Nate


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

Thanks for the input Nate, I am relatively young (30th coming up this month) and have pretty good balance so I am hoping I will be fine.

I got the frames and stringers glued in last night. It took quite a bit of trimming and sanding to get them to fit the way I wanted them due to the fillets and small variations in shape and panel cutting accuracy, but I am happy with the outcome.




























I still need to purchase some 3/4 inch pine for the cleats and another sheet of 4mm for the sole, so I don't know if there will be much progress tonight. I will see if I can sneak away from work at some point to run to the lumber yard.


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## CurtisWright (May 9, 2012)

You don't need 3/4 pine for cleats. Lay a few extra layers of glass on the back side of where-ever you want one and bolt the cleats in using a sizable washer. Cleats should never be screwed in. 

The 6HP is too heavy. It will float fine with you in the middle of the boat, but there is not enough bouyancy in the back for you to be back there cranking it. I ranted and raved on someone elses FS13 build a few pages back about this issue. I learned this the hard way with my own nearly identical build. I had to cut in a 2.5' split tail like the solo and drop down to the 3.5 to get the motor farther foward to be able to refuel/crank it with out the back end going down.

Also, The little semicircle hole in the back is not big enough to drain a wave over the bow. The water has to roll off immediately. With the 6HP you can go ~20MPH and very easily stuff the bow. With 4" of water on the deck the boat is incredibly unstable. Basically what I am saying is if you plan to add power to it then copy the Solo Skiff. Cut the transom out and build a fully enclosed bow area to keep water out. The Bateau design is not that great unless you plan to just use it with a paddle or trolling motor. 

You can read my troubles in the thread titled "Jealous of Shalla" a few pages back. 

After I made all the changes though it is my favorite boat. I use it way more than my poling skiff.


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

CurtisWright said:


> You don't need 3/4 pine for cleats. Lay a few extra layers of glass on the back side of where-ever you want one and bolt the cleats in using a sizable washer. Cleats should never be screwed in.
> 
> The 6HP is too heavy. It will float fine with you in the middle of the boat, but there is not enough bouyancy in the back for you to be back there cranking it. I ranted and raved on someone elses FS13 build a few pages back about this issue. I learned this the hard way with my own nearly identical build. I had to cut in a 2.5' split tail like the solo and drop down to the 3.5 to get the motor farther foward to be able to refuel/crank it with out the back end going down.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the insight Curtis. I will have to give it a try with a long shaft 3.5 I have kicking around the shop before buying something new in the correct shaft length.

I completely understand and agree with your logic of going with the split tail. The roto molded solo skiff is a slick design in this regard. Since this is my first build I am going to stick with the boat as designed, if it isn't the right design for my use it is still a great learning experience and I can build something else. Working out in the garage is a nice stress reliever and keeps me out of trouble. I enjoy projects... at least until its warm enough to get out on the water up here in Maine.


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## CurtisWright (May 9, 2012)

T


JaredH said:


> Thanks for the insight Curtis. I will have to give it a try with a long shaft 3.5 I have kicking around the shop before buying something new in the correct shaft length.
> 
> I completely understand and agree with your logic of going with the split tail. The roto molded solo skiff is a slick design in this regard. Since this is my first build I am going to stick with the boat as designed, if it isn't the right design for my use it is still a great learning experience and I can build something else. Working out in the garage is a nice stress reliever and keeps me out of trouble. I enjoy projects... at least until its warm enough to get out on the water up here in Maine.


The 3.5 is the perfect motor. I had the 6hp on mine originally, but it's way too much. I honestly think I should have gone with the 2.5 zuke.


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

CurtisWright said:


> T
> 
> The 3.5 is the perfect motor. I had the 6hp on mine originally, but it's way too much. I honestly think I should have gone with the 2.5 zuke.


Thanks for the tips! I read through your build thread and although the construction methods differ (holy high tech boat building!) it looks like the hull shape and displacement are pretty similar. Appreciate your documentation of the lessons learned along the way. Will definitely try it with the nissan 3.5hp I have, and may look for a short shaft parts motor to convert my existing engine. The only challenge will be the throttle controls being on the motor with an extension on the tiller.


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

I have been thinking about mounting a small cooler (Yeti 35) to use as a poling platform and for storage. I would like to mount the grab bar to the cooler as in the picture below.










I would like to mount the cooler using mounting straps to these brackets, as they are supposed to be easy on the feet when the cooler is removed.










I like this plan as everything is removable when not needed or for transportation. Is there an easy way to determine the center of effort on the deck and/or the most stable place to stand at rest so I can plan this mounting prior to the install of the sole?

I have also been thinking about extending the foredeck aft and adding a lip on the aft edge to shed any water if I stuff the bow similar to what I have seen when sailing International Canoes.










I would also like to create some storage in this space that drains to the deck. I would use a hatch like this.










My thought is to raise the sole from ~2ft aft of the bow frame to the bow frame about an inch. I would then put a frame from the existing sole to the foredeck/bow frame height separating the lower and upper sole and creating a compartment aft of the bow frame that is an inch above the rest of the sole. I could cut limber holes in this additional frame that would be at new compartment height, but 1 inch above the rest of the sole. This would allow the compartment to drain, but would make it harder for it to fill if the boat takes on water. This should produce some draining storage space, and reduce the deck volume and potential free surface effect issues when swamped.

Any thoughts concerns or criticisms would be appreciated.


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

JaredH said:


> I have been thinking about mounting a small cooler (Yeti 35) to use as a poling platform and for storage. I would like to mount the grab bar to the cooler as in the picture below.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



Just a thought. Those yeti tie downs will rust. Try Kennedy tie downs that won't


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## CurtisWright (May 9, 2012)

JaredH said:


> I have been thinking about mounting a small cooler (Yeti 35) to use as a poling platform and for storage. I would like to mount the grab bar to the cooler as in the picture below.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Yes on the front deck and splash rail idea. Make it as big as possible. You aren't going to be able to stand up there so might as well keep the water out. 

Don't bolt the cooler down. It's nice to be able to slide it around for ballast. When it's calm you can slide it all the way forward to keep the bow down and gain speed. When you are in a bit of a chop. (Anything around 1' or above). You can slide it back along with yourself to keep the bow high. 

Since you are going to stick with the flat back I would recommend modifying the sole and gunnels to mimic that of a laser or sunfish. About 6-9" thick to add buoyancy that you will need when cranking and reduce the volume of water that can be onboard.


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## CurtisWright (May 9, 2012)

And you are correct about steering with a flat back. You will need a 4-5' tiller extension to be able to stand in the middle when your running. It really reduces your ability to turn. Also, it's a pain to have to shift then run back to the middle to steer.


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

After a busy month of work, a 30th birthday, annual trip to the Keys for the tarpon migration, and the launch of our new (to us) Grady White, I am finally back to work on the skiff. Here are some pictures of the progress.

Cockpit sole V2.0










Cleats



















Foam (2 part urethane 2lb)



















Finally, the deck is glued in. Unfortunately I didn't get a shot of the doubler piece underneath as I moved pretty fast on the install, but it is there.




























Tonight I am planning on adding a fillet around the hull deck joint, and would like to add some 6in 6oz fiberglass tape around the seam. I would like to add some strength here as I am not a lightweight and plan to run the boat hard. If there any reason not to do this?


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

JaredH said:


> Tonight I am planning on adding a fillet around the hull deck joint, and would like to add some 6in 6oz fiberglass tape around the seam. I would like to add some strength here as I am not a lightweight and plan to run the boat hard. If there any reason not to do this?


The plans don't call for you to tape that seam? I am surprised, because, like you, my knee-jerk reaction is to tape all joints that are long enough to tape. Do the plans call for you to glass the top of the sole later? If so, tape is redundant. If Jacques didn't tape the seams, he was trying to save weight and felt it wasn't necessary. That joint is epoxied to the cleats below. If you break a deck because you are a lead-footed Sasquatch, it will get soft in the center where it is unsupported, not along the edge were it is supported.

Nate


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

WhiteDog70810 said:


> The plans don't call for you to tape that seam? I am surprised, because, like you, my knee-jerk reaction is to tape all joints that are long enough to tape. Do the plans call for you to glass the top of the sole later? If so, tape is redundant. If Jacques didn't tape the seams, he was trying to save weight and felt it wasn't necessary. That joint is epoxied to the cleats below. If you break a deck because you are a lead-footed Sasquatch, it will get soft in the center where it is unsupported, not along the edge were it is supported.
> 
> Nate


The plans do not call for tape, and the deck is not glassed when built as designed. For peace of mind I am going to tape the edges wet on wet when I do the fillets. Jacques gave the ok and said the added weight should be minimal.


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## erikb85 (Jun 13, 2014)

Keep it up. Looks like a cool boat when done and super light.


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

erikb85 said:


> Keep it up. Looks like a cool boat when done and super light.


Thanks!

Got the deck fillet done and taped the seams last night. Going to flip the boat and get the bottom ready for glass tonight.


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

Some more progress! As summer continues and I am finding less and less time to work on the skiff, I have decided a work boat finish would work ok for me. Itching to fish the marsh here in Scarborough for stripers and some other shallow areas that are a little skinny for the Grady. My only remaining question is how I should determine the waterline to paint the graphite/epoxy coating on the bottom. Any insight would be appreciated.









































































The bottom of the hull has been glassed, sanded and I laid down one coat of high-build primer last night. Going to sand and add another tonight.

The bottom is going to be painted with a graphite/epoxy mix, and topsides will be petit platinum gray. I am planning on a varnished rub rail. Looking into seadek for cockpit non-skid.


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

Right on! Fishing boats are made to beat up, so there is no need to make a museum piece. Just fair it until you are sick of sanding it, paint it and put it to work. 

I wouldn't worry about following the water line exactly. Just coat the bottom. You don't need it to wrap up the sides. Even epoxy-graphite will rub off the edge of the chines in sand and oysters. 

Looking good!

Nate


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## CurtisWright (May 9, 2012)

Mine was right at of 1" per 100lbs of total weight. both boats have very similar dimensions. I'd say 4" depending on how much you weigh and what motor you get.

150 for the boat
40 for the motor (3.5hp)
30 for a cooler and gear
180(guess) for you.


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

Thank you for the info on the waterline. I ended up going with the sole height (~3-4" draft).

I sanded down the first coat of primer, added another coat, then got the first coat of graphite/epoxy rolled on. Hoping to get another coat down tonight, then flip the boat and finish off the deck and transom knees. 

Getting close!


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## trekker (Sep 19, 2015)

Good work.


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## CurtisWright (May 9, 2012)

trekker said:


> Good work.


You have to peel the tape off before the epoxy sets. It's not like regular paint.


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

CurtisWright said:


> You have to peel the tape off before the epoxy sets. It's not like regular paint.


Forgot about this.... I should know better. Headed home from work in a bit and will see if I can still get the tape off.

Good advice!


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

Tape came off cleanly!

Pulled the tape off, re-taped and applied a second coat. Hoping to flip the boat tonight and get a first coat on the topsides from the waterline to the gunnel.

I want to float the boat before installing the foredeck. I would like to extend it aft, but want to see how far forward one can stand comfortably from a stability standpoint before installing.

Here are some pictures of the progress.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

I don't think I peeled my tape when I did the epoxy/graphite for a few days and it still came off cleanly. I used the best automotive 3m tape I could find though.

Looking pretty good, I'll be interested in your thoughts from the float test.


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

First coat of topside paint on the sides. Really like the color!


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

Float test today!

I wanted to get a sense of how much of the deck was truly usable before finishing up the topsides. I brought my 3.5hp long shaft outboard and attempted to hand the outboard, but the transom was too thin for the mounting bracket. The process of figuring this out while trying to install the motor with the boat in the water made it clear that I need to increase flotation aft for my intended use, and any way I can decrease the cockpit volume will make the boat more stable when flooded. Free surface effect, a large cockpit and a narrow beam make things a little sketchy with water on board. I am going to extend the foredeck aft, and create an aft deck (really two aft decks, one on each side) with a channel down the middle the width of the cockpit drain (6"). I will mock up my planned modifications and get some photos before permanently gluing them in.

Here are the photos!


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

I mocked up my decking changes today. My goal was to reduce the volume of water that could be held on deck, and to add some reserve buoyancy once the drain is under water. Based on my test float and attempt at motor mounting this is what I have come up with.




























The decks aft are about 5" x 30" x 12.5". If my math is correct this is about 1.1 cubic feet per side (total of 2.2 cubic feet which should displace about 137.28 lbs of water. Since the corners of the transom went under water when I was aft mounting the motor, this should be very helpful. It should (I believe) take an additional 137lbs to get the gunnels underwater at the transom now versus before.

Any thoughts, concerns, or criticisms before I glue these in would be appreciated!


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

It won't effect the amount of weight it takes to dip the transom, the corners will still be underwater when you are back there like before. In fact they will go under a bit easier now because you've added a few extra lbs. That being said you did create some seal float chambers so the boat should pop right back up after the submersion.

The 137lbs isn't subtracted from what it takes to swamp the skiff since that calculation was already there because you didn't change the freeboard height. Does that make sense?


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

firecat1981 said:


> It won't effect the amount of weight it takes to dip the transom, the corners will still be underwater when you are back there like before. In fact they will go under a bit easier now because you've added a few extra lbs. That being said you did create some seal float chambers so the boat should pop right back up after the submersion.
> 
> The 137lbs isn't subtracted from what it takes to swamp the skiff since that calculation was already there because you didn't change the freeboard height. Does that make sense?


There is a 6 inch wide scupper at sole height at the back of the boat. This is what begins to swamp the boat. The decks I've added should provide flotation from the time the scupper goes under until the gunnels go under.

I understand your point, but think you may have overlooked the open drain in the transom.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

I think you are right, lol. It should help, but splitting the tail and moving the motor forward a foot or so would do better I think.

personally I would box in the whole transom and move to 2 smaller scuppers on the sides instead if you're not splitting. Water always moves to the sides as boats never sit perfectly level, but it's not a huge deal.


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

firecat1981 said:


> I think you are right, lol. It should help, but splitting the tail and moving the motor forward a foot or so would do better I think.
> 
> personally I would box in the whole transom and move to 2 smaller scuppers on the sides instead if you're not splitting. Water always moves to the sides as boats never sit perfectly level, but it's not a huge deal.


Side scuppers make a lot of sense when sitting still, but it seems like they might scoop water in to the hull like a fire hose in hard turns. They'd have be well behind the middle station to dump water while under power or at anchor overnight when you really need them.

Nate


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

I meant 2 scuppers on the rear sides exiting the transom, like many production boats. it would be easy enough to do with some 1/4 tubes where the floor meets the sides running from the bulkhead to the transom. The way he has it will work fine, but he might have some standing water at times.


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Looks tippy to me. Where you going to fish that bateau


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

firecat1981 said:


> I meant 2 scuppers on the rear sides exiting the transom, like many production boats. it would be easy enough to do with some 1/4 tubes where the floor meets the sides running from the bulkhead to the transom. The way he has it will work fine, but he might have some standing water at times.


Gotcha. Makes more sense now.

Nate


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

permitchaser said:


> Looks tippy to me. Where you going to fish that bateau


Planning on fishing it up here in Maine in the Scarborough Marsh and on some sheltered areas of Casco Bay.

Here is a video about some of the flats fishing up here: 




I have fished with Eric Wallace up here a fair bit and am itching to sight cast to some stripers on my own.


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## CurtisWright (May 9, 2012)

I would do something temporary, like strap Styrofoam in back there with a ratchet strap and see if it works. I did this and it was ok at best and I only weigh 130. You are probably going to have to both move the motor forward and add 6" gunnels all the way to the bow. 

I know I sound like a jackass and am a kill joy but I have literally done all this before.


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## obangler (Jul 19, 2016)

This is the farthest along I've seen anyone on an fs13 build. Congrats. I am surprised how high the waterline is. (w/o engine or gear) Does this take away the option of self bailing scuppers at all? Unless maybe the deck is higher?


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

CurtisWright said:


> I would do something temporary, like strap Styrofoam in back there with a ratchet strap and see if it works. I did this and it was ok at best and I only weigh 130. You are probably going to have to both move the motor forward and add 6" gunnels all the way to the bow.
> 
> I know I sound like a jackass and am a kill joy but I have literally done all this before.


I am going to try it with the planned modifications and see how it works. I may be trying to fit this boat into a role it cannot fulfill. If it still won't work for me after the added decking at 205lbs, I will likely be ordering the FS18 plans and starting another build this fall. Its a long winter in Maine and I need something to do!


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

obangler said:


> This is the farthest along I've seen anyone on an fs13 build. Congrats. I am surprised how high the waterline is. (w/o engine or gear) Does this take away the option of self bailing scuppers at all? Unless maybe the deck is higher?


Thanks! The deck is self bailing with my weight in the middle of the boat, I weigh 205lbs. With gear and motor the deck may be wet at rest. We will find out!


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

CurtisWright said:


> I would do something temporary, like strap Styrofoam in back there with a ratchet strap and see if it works. I did this and it was ok at best and I only weigh 130. You are probably going to have to both move the motor forward and add 6" gunnels all the way to the bow.
> 
> I know I sound like a jackass and am a kill joy but I have literally done all this before.


Appreciate your input based on your experience with a similar build. Certainly haven't come across as a jackass, and reality can be a kill joy.


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## CurtisWright (May 9, 2012)

If you end up doing the FS18, call Bateau and tell them the FS13 design was a bust and you want them to send you FS18 plans and some materials for free. Your the only one on the internet that has come this far with the FS13 and they are probably be more than ready to compensate you for taking the thread down.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

CurtisWright said:


> Your the only one on the internet that has come this far with the FS13


Here is one on the Bateu forum that's a bit further: http://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=60947&start=70


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## Pole Position (Apr 3, 2016)

In defense of Bateau.com, I don't think it has been them who have oversold the capabilities of this boat; instead, there have been a number of people who believe you can power these things w/ a 10plus hp engine and run 30 knots, fish 2 people in the boat, add fish boxes and other heavy amenities, etc, etc, etc, and the boat is just not capable of doing that.


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

I just viewed the video of the other build on the water without a motor. http://www.microskiff.com/threads/build-thread-1967-johnsen-starfisher-14.36427/)

It appears to me that the design is not stable enough to fish nor buoyant enough to hold a motor, especially if the skipper has to go aft to pull start. I wonder if the designer ever built one and tested it before plans were sold?


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

CurtisWright said:


> If you end up doing the FS18, call Bateau and tell them the FS13 design was a bust and you want them to send you FS18 plans and some materials for free. Your the only one on the internet that has come this far with the FS13 and they are probably be more than ready to compensate you for taking the thread down.


I don't feel as though they misrepresented the plans in any way.

"Is it a SUP (Stand Up Paddle board), a wide fishing canoe, a small solo flats fishing skiff or all that together? Let's call her an hybrid solo skiff."

"Similar boats exist in fiberglass or rotomolded: the Solo Skiff or Ambush. Our FS13 is lighter and can be customized by the builder.

More accommodating and more stable than a SUP or a fishing kayak and designed from the start to take a small motor on the integral transom plate, the FS13 is small enough to fit in the back of most small trucks and light enough to be taken in and out of it by one man. Or she can be car topped."

Based on my experience trying to mount my 3.5hp outboard I think 5hp may be optimistic as a rating, although someone who weighs less than me may find 5hp doable.

In the end it has been a fun project, and while the FS18 may end up being a better fit for me it would have been an ambitious first build. I have learned quite a bit from building the FS13 and will have a better end result on a second build because of it.


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## CurtisWright (May 9, 2012)

Pole Position said:


> In defense of Bateau.com, I don't think it has been them who have oversold the capabilities of this boat; instead, there have been a number of people who believe you can power these things w/ a 10plus hp engine and run 30 knots, fish 2 people in the boat, add fish boxes and other heavy amenities, etc, etc, etc, and the boat is just not capable of doing that.


Its a simple matter of weight ratios, a one pound bird cannot carry a 5 lb coconut.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

I don't trust these birds trying to stockpile coconuts! What are they planning?!!


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## fsae99 (Apr 8, 2010)

JaredH said:


> I don't feel as though they misrepresented the plans in any way.
> 
> "Is it a SUP (Stand Up Paddle board), a wide fishing canoe, a small solo flats fishing skiff or all that together? Let's call her an hybrid solo skiff."
> 
> ...


Any updates?


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

__ https://www.facebook.com/video.php?v=10211098358915152



Gifted the skiff to a buddy of mine in Islamorada while down here with our big boat for 6 weeks. Here is a video running with a 2.5hp Yamaha 4 stroke. Runs great!


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Looks tippy. Don't take it out of the boat basin. It might sink. No flotation I think


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

Everything below the deck is foam. As long as you walk off and don’t dunk the motor she’s good for local flats or a tow behind the big boat backcountry.


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