# Aluminum hardware required for aluminum poling platform?



## whoislang (Jul 29, 2020)

Let me know where you find some aluminum screws.....


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## Rich11111 (Jun 6, 2018)

Artlow12 said:


> Do I need to use aluminum screws when attaching to keep from having issues with dissimilar metals or will stainless be fine?


All the bolting I have ever seen on aluminum marine applications have been stainless including Boat trailer, Poling platform, backplate, motor.


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## Artlow12 (Jun 8, 2018)

whoislang said:


> Let me know where you find some aluminum screws.....


Aluminum | McMaster-Carr 

Quick search, but I am sure there are options if I want to go that way.


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## Artlow12 (Jun 8, 2018)

Rich11111 said:


> All the bolting I have ever seen on aluminum marine applications have been stainless including Boat trailer, Poling platform, backplate, motor.


Thanks, that's kind of what my thoughts were as well. Just wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something before I went with stainless.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

I would thru bolt if possible.


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## Rich11111 (Jun 6, 2018)

devrep said:


> I would thru bolt if possible.


Agree. Nut with nylon insert to lock and good size washer under nut. 5200 to seal too is what I have seen. If not able to get to other side of to place nut I would think there are better options. I saw a post recently addressing not being able to get to the other side for a nut


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## Artlow12 (Jun 8, 2018)

devrep said:


> I would thru bolt if possible.


I'm going to look tonight, and take some pictures, but from what I understand it is not possible to thru bolt on this boat, without cutting into the livewell.


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## Rich11111 (Jun 6, 2018)

Artlow12 said:


> it is not possible to thru bolt on this boat, without cutting into the livewell.


From what i remember toggle bolt was suggested. Hopefully you can get to the other side if not then toggle bolts. Hope others with the experience are able to guide you Do a search on this site putting in "toggle bolt" as search will help


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Use stainless, through bolt where you can, then lag bolt with 5200
Lets see some pictures please


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## Bryson Turner (May 3, 2017)

Clean the pads really well and apply 5200 or Fast Cure 4000. Through bolt where you can with stainless typically your hardware is going to be 1/4". Depending on what boat it is older mavericks and hewes have an aluminum plate that is glassed into the transom and about 4-5" on the back of the deck. If this is the case we usually drill a 3/16 hole and tap the aluminum and wood. Works very well. If this isnt your case drill a 3/16 hole and use a stainless wood screw (as long as you can bare typically use 2- 2 1/2") that matches the same head as the ones you through bolted with. start it with a drill but tighten it with a screw driver. If you over tighten you will strip the wood or whatever the boat is made from. Let the 5200/4000 cure for 24 hrs and you will be set.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Use TefGel on the head of the stainless fastener and the aluminum will never corrode. 
I don’t recommend 5200 on anything you might need to remove.


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## Bryson Turner (May 3, 2017)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Use TefGel on the head of the stainless fastener and the aluminum will never corrode.
> I don’t recommend 5200 on anything you might need to remove.


If you ever need to remove something that has 5200 a heat gun that is being applied to the pad of the platform will loosen the 5200 back to its original state. Keep the area around it cool while you do this with a wet rag and it will pull off without bringing gel coat with it.

Fast cure 4000 is preferable it is much easier to remove.


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## Artlow12 (Jun 8, 2018)

Bryson Turner said:


> Clean the pads really well and apply 5200 or Fast Cure 4000. Through bolt where you can with stainless typically your hardware is going to be 1/4". Depending on what boat it is older mavericks and hewes have an aluminum plate that is glassed into the transom and about 4-5" on the back of the deck. If this is the case we usually drill a 3/16 hole and tap the aluminum and wood. Works very well. If this isnt your case drill a 3/16 hole and use a stainless wood screw (as long as you can bare typically use 2- 2 1/2") that matches the same head as the ones you through bolted with. start it with a drill but tighten it with a screw driver. If you over tighten you will strip the wood or whatever the boat is made from. Let the 5200/4000 cure for 24 hrs and you will be set.


Thanks for the advice. I will try and post some pictures today of the boat and look for the glassed in plate. I know there is a aluminum plate glassed in up front under the deck for the trolling motor mount. The owner of the boat before me said the bolts were starting to vibrate out so he took the poling platform off. I had a guy glass in the old holes as well as a bunch of small holes around the deck. My thought is to use 5200 because I can't think of a reason why I would take it off, and I want to try and prevent the new hardware from having a possibility of coming back out.


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## CaptDanS (Oct 26, 2017)

For 5200 removal

Debond MF12 Marine Formula, 12 oz. Aerosol

Available on Amazon, not cheap but works...


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Bryson Turner said:


> If you ever need to remove something that has 5200 a heat gun that is being applied to the pad of the platform will loosen the 5200 back to its original state. Keep the area around it cool while you do this with a wet rag and it will pull off without bringing gel coat with it.
> 
> Fast cure 4000 is preferable it is much easier to remove.


One of my platforms developed a crack at the top weld and it came back no matter what. Drilled the ends of the crack and re welded and it came back. Had to remove the platform and it had 5200 under the pads. Aluminum cools so fast it’s hard to heat it up enough to soften the 5200 and not screw up the core around the area being heated even with a few wet rags. I’d rather use the less permanent sealants and let the fasteners do their job of holding the platform down. Friggin’ nightmare.


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## Gogittum (May 24, 2020)

Toggle bolts are a good solution that can work where nothing else will, but there are toggle bolts and toggle bolts. Many are very flimsy and won't stand a good pull. Look carefully at any you want to use - the tabs on the nut that hold the wings "must" be solid and substantial and hold the wings securely. Too many times, I've seen those tabs bend or break and the wings fall off the toggle bolt.


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## Artlow12 (Jun 8, 2018)

Sorry for the delayed reply ya'll. Been a crazy holiday season. I can not get to the backside of anywhere the bolts will be without cutting the inner liner of this boat, and I really don't want to do that. It looks like toggle bolts may be the best solution here. Here are some pictures of what it looked like when I got it, and what it looks like now. It looks like they just used big lag screws and 5200 to attach it originally. On the bottom I need 3/8" bolts, the transom is 2 1/4" thick, and I have about 3/4" of room between the liner and the transom. On top I need 1/4" bolts, and from what I can tell the fiberglass is about 1" thick and has as much room as I need under. I want to do this right, and am not in a rush.

-Why use 3M 4000 over 4200? UV protection shouldn't be an issue as it will be under the pads.
-What toggle bolts do ya'll recommend? I've seen "togglers", but it only looks like they come in 1/4".


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