# Boat Rewire Considerations



## KyleW (Mar 10, 2017)

So I’m working on a ton of stuff for my Action Craft, one thing being a total rewire. Looking for input/confirmation on my game plan

I’ll be using all marine tinned copper wiring, heat shrink connectors and heat shrink terminals. Blue seas ST blade fuse block and blue seas bus bar. I didn’t go with the fuse block/bus combo so that I could keep the grounds out of the console and run from accessory to the bar in the back hatch. The fuse block will be in the console near the switches. I believe 16 awg wire for all the accessories aside from the GPS, 8 awg from the fuse/bus to batteries and 4 awg from my 115 opti to the starter.

I would assume 4-6 for the battery to the switch and opti to the switch? Also perhaps and inline fuse for the bilge?

I have a float for the bilge, I’m not quite sure how to wire that in together, the way it was setup before I ripped out the wiring, was a mess.










i fixed the oops in my diagram but didn’t want to messy it up. The bilge plan would be (+) bilge>switch>Fuse>house batt ... (-) bilge>bus

I will also have a 3bank charger for the 24v trolling system and house battery, leaving the starting to charge from the motor. Plan to only use the starter for starting, no house work.


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## fishwhistle (May 26, 2020)

1. battery/outboard to switch - depends on length of your run, I'd err on an over kill factor. Need to know the AMP rating coming off your outboards rectifier. Voltage drop and power quality are factors, check out this link:



http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/instructions/9836.pdf



2. Yes inline fuse or CB for the auto bilge, you will have (2) hots coming off of that bilge. One needs to connect to "always on" power source that you'll be using that inline fuse on. On my gheenoe, I have it connected straight onto the battery, with your setup you could put on one of the bus bars tied to your house battery. Keep in mind though, depending on how you wire it, you could create a scenario where your battery switch is off, and you have no auto-bilge functionality. The other hot would go your bilge switch leg.

3. get some di-electric grease and put a small bit in all your butt connectors before you crimp/heat shrink. Also wouldn't hurt to put on all bus bar terminations.


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## KyleW (Mar 10, 2017)

Toggle Switches:
LV 1: On-Off
LV 2: On-Off
Acc Lights: On-Off
Nav/Anchor: On-Off-On
Bilge: On-Off-On(Off) OR On-Off
LV/Hatch Light: On-Off-On

I plan to use the basic toggle switches with boots without a panel, mounted through the console/fiberglass to the gelcoat. I can make slight spacing alterations to help discern what is what. I think this will make it as simple as possible


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## KyleW (Mar 10, 2017)

fishwhistle said:


> 1. battery/outboard to switch - depends on length of your run, I'd err on an over kill factor. Need to know the AMP rating coming off your outboards rectifier. Voltage drop and power quality are factors, check out this link:
> 
> 
> 
> ...


1. I will check more into the amp rating/distance to ensure the gauge is appropriate

2. I will make sure the bilge/float are wire directly to the battery and not on the switch with the inline fuse

3. good tip and definitely will protect the terminals as best as possible.

Just to clarify to what I’m doing here, the battery switch would be set to 1 to start the boat, during that time all electronics and motor will pull off battery one. Once I stop, cut the engine, move the switch to the (2) position, all electronics and the motor(if I chose to start it) will pull from battery 2 only.

I believe this is what’s going on here, and I think that’s the goal.


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## not2shabby (Sep 14, 2016)

You're certain you need two batteries? Without a TM, I don't really see the need.



fishwhistle said:


> 3. get some di-electric grease and put a small bit in all your butt connectors before you crimp/heat shrink. Also wouldn't hurt to put on all bus bar terminations.


I want to make sure and clarify this. Dielectric grease is an insulator. It is good for corrosion prevention and insulation AFTER you land your wires on the bus bar or make other terminations. I would not put them inside of butt connectors or on blade connectors either. If you really wanted to, you could crimp and shrink your butt connectors and then put a little around each end where the adhesive comes out, but I don't think that's necessary. The best places to use it are on your battery connections - make the connection then put a little dielectric grease to cover it - and on your bus bar - again, make the connection and then put a little over it to protect it.


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## KyleW (Mar 10, 2017)

not2shabby said:


> You're certain you need two batteries? Without a TM, I don't really see the need.
> 
> 
> 
> I want to make sure and clarify this. Dielectric grease is an insulator. It is good for corrosion prevention and insulation AFTER you land your wires on the bus bar or make other terminations. I would not put them inside of butt connectors or on blade connectors either. If you really wanted to, you could crimp and shrink your butt connectors and then put a little around each end where the adhesive comes out, but I don't think that's necessary. The best places to use it are on your battery connections - make the connection then put a little dielectric grease to cover it - and on your bus bar - again, make the connection and then put a little over it to protect it.


that was my understanding of the use, thanks


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## Steve_Mevers (Feb 8, 2013)

If you are planning on replacing your switch panel, look at Newwiremarine.com, they built me a new panel with switches for $142.


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## KyleW (Mar 10, 2017)

Steve_Mevers said:


> If you are planning on replacing your switch panel, look at Newwiremarine.com, they built me a new panel with switches for $142.


Thanks but I’m going with no panel, just flush mounted toggles through the glass/gelcoat


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

I'm going to be watching this. I'm re-read wiring mine as well. I went with 14 gauge tinned copper on my switches. So far I've re-wired my NAV lights and fuel gauge that took 100' of 14 gauge, from the console switch to the front of the boat and back to the PP platform, all new lights, it looks great


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

I looked into some dielectric spray


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## coconutgroves (Sep 23, 2013)

If you want to see some good ideas on the rigging, check out the Skiff Shop's instagram page (probably on Facebook too, but I am not on there). Very clean rigging. Here is a post:


__
http://instagr.am/p/CGoNvhfjHMQ/


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## KyleW (Mar 10, 2017)

coconutgroves said:


> If you want to see some good ideas on the rigging, check out the Skiff Shop's instagram page (probably on Facebook too, but I am not on there). Very clean rigging. Here is a post:
> 
> 
> __
> http://instagr.am/p/CGoNvhfjHMQ/


I follow them! They kill it on those boat, always great results m


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

coconutgroves said:


> If you want to see some good ideas on the rigging, check out the Skiff Shop's instagram page (probably on Facebook too, but I am not on there). Very clean rigging. Here is a post:
> 
> 
> __
> http://instagr.am/p/CGoNvhfjHMQ/


Man I wish I could have my boat look like that. Wireing porn


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## coconutgroves (Sep 23, 2013)

permitchaser said:


> Man I wish I could have my boat look like that. Wireing porn


I talked to them for some parts and told them I loved their instagram and it was "skiff porn" - they hadn't heard that term and laughed pretty good about it.


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