# How to gel coat



## timemachine (Sep 1, 2014)

I've only ever used spectum color, but I'm sure in so fla there are places to get it cheaper and better.  Also, there is some controversy about how well polyester gel coat sticks to epoxy. There is also controversy about how well polyester sticks to cured polyester. I can tell you from personal experience that I have peeled off fiberglass repairs that I assumed to be polyester, and the base fiberglass appeared to be well sanded to a nice taper. If I am taking a chance, I would rather use epoxy for the repair because it adheres well to cured polyester, and take a chance with the gelcoat peeling off. That said, I have used gelcoat over epoxy, and it looks like it is holding on. Super wash with water takes away the impurities.

Sorry about the long comment on a simple question. As for how to do gelcoat- it's covered well on youtube!


----------



## CurtisWright (May 9, 2012)

Thin polyester gel coat with styrene and spray it through an HVLP.  catalyze it at 2% unless its just really hot out then about 1.5% will work.  Use a harbor freight gun incase it sets up in it. You will need a 1.5mm to 2mm nozzle to get it out.  Will have to block and polish a little orange peel when your done.

or if you want the best,  spray a an awl grip epoxy primer on the repair out of your HVLP, block it perfectly fair to the bait well,  rough up the entire bait well with 400 grit and then paint the entire inside with epoxy primer.  then spray a top coat colored to match the existing gel. This will be challenging working inside a box.


----------



## RTS (Jul 9, 2012)

> Thin polyester gel coat with styrene and spray it through an HVLP.  catalyze it at 2% unless its just really hot out then about 1.5% will work.  Use a harbor freight gun incase it sets up in it. You will need a 1.5mm to 2mm nozzle to get it out.  Will have to block and polish a little orange peel when your done.
> 
> If you use duratech you shouldn't have to thin with styrene and you will get a much better finish.  IMHO, good enough for livewells without sanding.
> 
> or if you want the best,  spray a an awl grip epoxy primer on the repair out of your HVLP, block it perfectly fair to the bait well,  rough up the entire bait well with 400 grit and then paint the entire inside with epoxy primer.  then spray a top coat colored to match the existing gel.  This will be challenging working inside a box.


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

man I am overwhelmed. I don't have an air compressor so what ever I can brush on or comes in a spray can is what I will use

The lids on the sponsons bait wells are not guttered and let water in (all the other lids are) so i have to put the overflow tubes in the drain hole to keep the rain for going in the hull and plug the outside hole to keep the saltwater from coming in. My boat sat in the mechanics shop out side for 5-6 months uncovered (my fault) and rain got in the hull so I am shop vacuuming it out were i can :'(


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

I forgot to say you guys are the best. Thanks for getting back


----------



## cutrunner (Jun 8, 2010)

Skiff, im with you, assuming said person actually knows how to setup a spray gun properly, and flow out the material


----------



## cutrunner (Jun 8, 2010)

Gelcoat will look terrible brushed or rolled on. If you don't have an air compressor, it's safe to say you don't have a hose or a spray gun or fittings or etc. Sounds like it will be an expensive initial buy in on a diy project


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

yep Cut you r right. I have spent enough on this 2 year restore so I am going with epoxy in a can or something you guys can come up with. It's in a bait well and does not have to look pretty

Thanks


----------



## RTS (Jul 9, 2012)

> yep Cut you r right.  I have spent enough on this 2 year restore so I am going with epoxy in a can or something you guys can come up with.  It's in a bait well and does not have to look pretty
> 
> Thanks


Gel and epoxy can be a tough battle.  If going with epoxy, simply roll and tip awlgrip.  All the money is in the materials and you can use a cheap roller and foam brush - toss when done


----------



## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Permit...how bout them pics.

You can use a Preval sprayer because the job is small. But post the pics of the project.


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

here are some pictures of my project










this is the inside of my bait well the drian at the bottom has nothing connected to it so it drains into the sponson   










the drain hole on the outside of the sponson not connected to the one in the well

So what i am going to do is cut a hole big enough to get my hand through with my jig saw.  That will let me attach the hose to both nozzles then clean the bottom of the sponson were water has gathered then foam it so water can't get in there 

After I plan to resin and mat it back together.  There are two sponsons and two bait wells so I have to do both

I don't know what Awlgrip is


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

I looked up Preval sprayer and the looks like what I can use 
Now what the heck do I put in it :-?


----------



## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Here is what I would do.

Cut out the bait well drain proud by about 2". Grind a slope in the cut out and the bottom of the well. Make a strip of glass and let it cure and then cut it to fit in the hole and glue it so it will support the drain. Epoxy that to the underside of the hole and set the drain back in after it cures. Then fill the cut line with thickened epoxy. Sand smooth and then find a suitable paint.


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

if I cut the drain out how would i attach the drain hose to it and the other drain

i need a visual :-X


----------



## timemachine (Sep 1, 2014)

a laminate trimmer style router with a 1/4 or 1/8 spiral upcut bit cuts fiberglass like butter. I'd skip the jigsaw


----------



## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Cut a hole that is 6" round and the drain is in the middle. Then reach your hand in and attach hose to sponson, then before gluing back in attach it to the one you cut out.


----------



## Capnredfish (Feb 1, 2012)

I doubt you will fit a preval sprayer in there with the glass jar. I typically use a paper cup anyways. Bottom of a bait well, just brush it on. If you want it looking good then you have to sand and buff which also looks tight. I have used bilge gel in comparments before and it flowed out nice and looked good with no sand and buff.


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

> a laminate trimmer style router with a 1/4 or 1/8 spiral upcut bit cuts fiberglass like butter.  I'd skip the jigsaw


I don't have one of these or know anyone who does so jig saw it is


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

> Cut a hole that is 6" round and the drain is in the middle.  Then reach your hand in and attach hose to sponson, then before gluing back in attach it to the one you cut out.


I know you have more experience than I but if I cut the drain out it seems it will be harder to sand with my buff sander. If I cut a hole in the side I can sand it easier

Thanks for all your help


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

This is what the bait well looks like from the outside not water proof one on the other side matches










My supplies so far


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

> I doubt you will fit a preval sprayer in there with the glass jar. I typically use a paper cup anyways. Bottom of a bait well, just brush it on. If you want it looking good then you have to sand and buff which also looks tight. I have used bilge gel in comparments before and it flowed out nice and looked good with no sand and buff.


Thanks Man you the best i found it Interlux Bilgekote Quart INTYMA102Q - White

Looks like I can spray or brush it on. let me know if I can use the Preval


----------



## Capnredfish (Feb 1, 2012)

You can use preval. But must thin it. Little acetone works.


----------



## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

> > Cut a hole that is 6" round and the drain is in the middle.  Then reach your hand in and attach hose to sponson, then before gluing back in attach it to the one you cut out.
> 
> 
> I know you have more experience than I but if I cut the drain out it seems it will be harder to sand with my buff sander.  If I cut a hole in the side I can sand it easier
> ...


You are probably right...but the space between the liner and hull might prevent your hand getting in there to do what you want.

Cut the drain out and you have all the access you would need because you can lift it into the well.

It might prove harder to sand but that will be solved by using your elbow


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

> > > Cut a hole that is 6" round and the drain is in the middle.  Then reach your hand in and attach hose to sponson, then before gluing back in attach it to the one you cut out.
> >
> >
> > I know you have more experience than I but if I cut the drain out it seems it will be harder to sand with my buff sander.  If I cut a hole in the side I can sand it easier
> ...



Ok you may be right I'll try to measure the space between the outer layer and the space between the bottom of the well to the bottom of the sponson


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

I found a 5" hole saw kit that I may get. That will let me cut the drain out. I found some two part epoxy spray pair at Home Depot today by it cost $30. I can get the interlux bilge kote for less

Let me know what the experts think

Again thanks for all your help


----------



## CurtisWright (May 9, 2012)

> I found a 5" hole saw kit that I may get. That will let me cut the drain out. I found some two part epoxy spray pair at Home Depot today by it cost $30. I can get the interlux bilge kote for less
> 
> Let me know what the experts think
> 
> Again thanks for all your help



http://www.jamestowndistributors.co...d=product_ad&gclid=CIi05bjOvMQCFZKLaQoddh8Akw

If it were me I would take the cap off and hook it all back up the right way. 

You can use one of these to spray in a tight spot. 

Based on the photo of the materials you bought I would not attempt to do this your self and would take it to a glass shop if you plan to repair it without lifting the cap.


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Have you ever taken off a cap and motor without help. That means disconnect the motor and jack plate take off the rub rail about 100 screws. Then try to find a way to lift the cap off without a crane or help

I thinks I'll cut a hole


----------



## CurtisWright (May 9, 2012)

> Have you ever taken off a cap and motor without help. That means disconnect the motor and jack plate take off the rub rail about 100 screws. Then try to find a way to lift the cap off without a crane or help
> 
> I thinks I'll cut a hole


Yea, its a bitch. Good luck with the repair.


----------



## timemachine (Sep 1, 2014)

I'd much rather be working with 1708 than fiberglass mat. Much easier to work with, stronger, and easier to not over resin.

With 1708, it would be pretty easy to make a half cured "flange" surface on the back of the glass from the front side, and then glue the old piece back to the flange. After that you could grind the front side so that the repair is sandwiched from both sides.

I've never had much fun with mat.


----------



## cutrunner (Jun 8, 2010)

1708 would be a fairing pita., especially in a hatch like that. Just get a 5 or 6 inch hole saw, get the hole started but don't cut all the way through, then take a grinder and grind your relief for the new fiberglass while it's still all one piece using the circle left by the hole saw as a guide. Then finish up blowing the hole with the hole saw. Hook up your hoses or whatever you need to do. Then pop the old cutout from the holes back in there, precut some strips of Matt and some cloth. Do a layer of Matt first than a layer of cloth. Let it dry, then sand it flat, fill with some filler, sand again, then gelcoat it


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

> 1708 would be a fairing pita., especially in a hatch like that. Just get a 5 or 6 inch hole saw, get the hole started but don't cut all the way through, then take a grinder and grind your relief for the new fiberglass while it's still all one piece using the circle left by the hole saw as a guide. Then finish up blowing the hole with the hole saw. Hook up your hoses or whatever you need to do. Then pop the old cutout from the holes back in there, precut some strips of Matt and some cloth. Do a layer of Matt first than a layer of cloth. Let it dry, then sand it flat, fill with some filler, sand again, then gelcoat it


Thanks Cut I will not be able to get my grinder inthe bait well I will have to use a small electric sander. I have a hole saw on order that has a 5" saw in it. I have also have on order Interlux bilge kote. It comes in white which I think I may not match my boat color which is not bright white. I may have to take it to HD to get some tint. I also have two other areas on the boat that need some small work. 

I can't thank everyone enough I have never done this before so it's a good time to learn


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

> I'd much rather be working with 1708 than fiberglass mat.  Much easier to work with, stronger, and easier to not over resin.
> 
> With 1708, it would be pretty easy to make a half cured "flange" surface on the back of the glass from the front side, and then glue the old piece back to the flange.  After that you could grind the front side so that the repair is sandwiched from both sides.
> 
> I've never had much fun with mat.


Were the heck do you get 1708. Not at HD


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Googled 1708 it looks easier to work with. I'll try to find it locall


----------



## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

While you are at HD...buy a rubber cork to fit in the drain hole or you will never get your hole saw to work.


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Thanks i saw fiberglass cloth in there and it looks easier to work with


----------



## cutrunner (Jun 8, 2010)

Shouldn't be building a boat at home depot


----------



## RTS (Jul 9, 2012)

> Shouldn't be building a boat at home depot


Exactly. That's what Walmat's are for. :


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

I live in GA so there are few fiberglass supply places here. I called a boat restorer near my house and he did not know what 1708 was. I am going to use the cloth to build strips to put under the floor of the bait well to hold the drain I will have cut out. Then glass or epoxy the drain back in. I'll finish it with bilge Kote. I'll post pictures


----------



## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Give me your address...I will mail you some


----------



## RTS (Jul 9, 2012)

> I live in GA so there are few fiberglass supply places here. I called a boat restorer near my house and he did not know what 1708 was. I am going to use the cloth to build strips to put under the floor of the bait well to hold the drain I will have cut out. Then glass or epoxy the drain back in. I'll finish it with bilge  Kote. I'll post pictures


Thats why God invented the intardnet: :-/

These people have an on line store, just click or call.  Good people.

https://www.fgci.com/

Here's the deal.  If you call them, the advice is free. 

Not only is that stuff you find at the big box stores most likely new old stock, but it's 10 times harder to work than better materials.

Several have offered sound advice here. Don't make it a disaster thread.


----------



## timemachine (Sep 1, 2014)

> 1708 would be a fairing pita.,



yup- I agree that 1708 would be hard to fair.

What I am thinking about is, with a 6 inch hole saw, making two doughnuts of 1708, with the outside about 7 inches, and the inside 5 inches.  

Then on a flat surface wetting out the 1708 and letting it cure up half way, so that you can still work with it- then taking that half cured doughnut and sicking it to the inside of the repair, with some peanut butter thickened resin.  (mat side of the 1708 onto the inside of the hull)

this will leave a step on the inside of the hull that the old part can be placed on top of and glued to.  Then grind the half repaired circle and apply one layer of 1708 BELOW THE FINAL SURFACE.  On top of this, a little mat with resin.  This way, you are fairing mat, not 1708.  

All this said, most of my repair experience is from cored boston whaler hulls- and techniques you use there may be a little overkill for other situations.

Also, you can get 1708 from us composites.


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

> Give me your address...I will mail you some


Sent you a PM. Thanks


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Could someone tell what fairing is. I have just about got it but want to make sure. After this I'll be one fiberglass fabricator


----------



## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Fairing is a term interchangeable with sanding.

As for a fabricator...priceless


----------



## CurtisWright (May 9, 2012)

Permit,  your a good fisherman but with the questions your asking and the comments your leaving your not ready to do this.

I have built an entire mold / 16' boat out of fiberglass and am working on my second. I would at most consider myself an armature with RFP work.  I could not do this job.  (well, I could make it stick and probably work, but it would look awful and delaminate in a year or so)  I am baffled as to how your going to work in such a tight spot and make everything stick and work again.  I would spend the 300$ and take it to a pro.


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

I received my Interlux Bilge Koat and my hole saw kit that has blades up to 5". When it warms back up I may start the work

My question is what grit sand paper do I need to grind the bottom of the bait well before I cut through and what grit to fair the new mat and cloth I'll be putting down

I'll try to post pictures of my work so you all can have a laugh ;D;D


----------



## RTS (Jul 9, 2012)

Just a note here PC.

Race boats are hand faired using long boards to achieve a perfect finish.  If you use the right materials and proper planing, this could be hand faired faster and much better than trying to use a machine your not familiar with.

Time Machine gave you one method to lay it up.  If you use a couple of layers of 1708 with light matt last, wet on wet, you will find the matt much easier to sand and wont compromise the strength of the 1708.  If the locals don't know what 1708 is, run.

As for what grit to grind with, I would use 36. 50 will work but you are not going to get a chemical bond, only mechanical.


----------



## CurtisWright (May 9, 2012)

> I received my Interlux Bilge Koat and my hole saw kit that has blades up to 5". When it warms back up I may start the work
> 
> My question is what grit sand paper do I need to grind the bottom of the bait well before I cut through and what grit to fair the new mat and cloth I'll be putting down
> 
> I'll try to post pictures of my work so you all can have a laugh  ;D;D


What is the temp?  Colder weather = longer pot life.  I prefer to work in the cold and then turn the heater on my shop up when I'm finished with the lay up.  Or in your case hit it with a hair dryer.

Do you have winter or summer resin?  Not sure if bondo specifies.

36 or 24 if you can get an angle grinder down in there. I don't think doing it by hand would be possible


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Thanks to all for the help. My boat stays outside and I have been busy. This week it's going to rain then get warmer just as I am going out of town to spend Easter with my family at the beach on Oak Island NC. We will get some fishing in even if it's just surf fishing. We r flying so my flats boat stays home 

Next week cut/grind


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

I have just about everything to get started. Today I made a wood plug to put in the drain hole. The wood plug will function as a guide for the drill bit that guides the hole saw

I am planning to start this project tomorrow and have the weekend to finish. Now I see rain for the next 5 days. I'll have to work around showers


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

http://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1428697888/0#2

Started the project


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

When I took the drain out it had some old ribbed black hose on it that measured 1 1/8" ID. So i went to my local ACE and all they had was 1'' ID and 1 1/4" ID which was to big. I bought 2' of the 1" and will have to heat it to make it fit

I searched online and can't find any 1 1/8 " ID Clear braided hose


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

I received some 1708 from Ducknut. Thank you Ducknut. Now I am understanding why y'all yelled at me about it.  Now what side goes down and what side goes up?


----------



## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

It wont matter because...
You are going to cut it 2 inches bigger than the hole. The wet it out on a garbage bag and let it cure. Then clean it up by sanding excess resin off. Then you are going to drill out the middle to make it look like a donut. After that cut it in half and glue it to the underside of the well with epoxy. Hold in place with clamps. Then repeat with the other half. That will be the support for your piece you cut out.


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Thanks for everything DuckNut. What side do I put down to finish the top the will be gel coated


----------



## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

You don't use that thick stuff on the inside, only on underside.

You use thickened epoxy and spread it like you are drywalling to fill in the beveled void. The smoother you get it the less sanding later.


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

> You don't use that thick stuff on the inside, only on underside.
> 
> You use thickened epoxy and spread it like you are drywalling to fill in the beveled void. The smoother you get it the less sanding later.


Thanks that should be easy


----------



## CurtisWright (May 9, 2012)

Gelcoat will not stick to epoxy. Only epoxy sticks to epoxy.


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

What about interlux Bilge Kote will it stick


----------



## CurtisWright (May 9, 2012)

I dont know.  I have never used it.  
If your boat is polyester I would use poly resin mixed with 3m microbaloons and some 1/2 or 1/4" glass fibers or buy some pre mix polyester fairing putty.  

The best stuff I have ever used was a blue vinyal ester pre mix fairing putty.  It went on slick and was easy to sand.

Poly resin and gelcoat will peel right off of epoxy.  Make sure your interlux is an epoxy before painting over it.


If I was going to make this repair I would do like you are planning with the hole saw and grinding a relief. Hook everything back up and use a hot melt glue gun to tack it back in place. On a piece of card board I would wet out little 3" square pieces of matt, biaxial, matt with poly resin (not the bondo kind with styrene wax in it) and then lay them in place staggered over where ever your hot glue isnt. Roll out all the air bubbles with an air roller. Then let it cure and pull the hot glue out and hand sand any glue residue away. Then repeat the matt, biaxial, matt over the areas where the glue was. Once this is cured I would stick my grinder back in there and grind down any high spots. I would mix up 1:1 aerosil and poly gelcoat to the consistancy of butter and then I would use an 8" drywall knife to screech it in. Wait till it cures and then use an orbital sander and 120grit to blend it down and into the existing gelcoat. Progress Up to 1500 Grit and then wax it good and call it real. Pray that it doesnt delaminate after a few years of being submerged in water.


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

The best stuff I have ever used was a blue vinyal ester pre mix fairing putty. It went on slick and was easy to sand.


Can you tell were to get it. My Interlux won't go over epoxy without their epoxy primer so I am going use what CWright said and put some 1708 under to support of the cut out. Then put fiberglass cloth down on top sand and Bilgekoat it

I can't thank all all of you enough for your help

More pictures to come


----------



## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

fgci.com has the blue stuff. It is in the filler section and is the "light" or "lite" version. It is good stuff and real easy to sand, no need for a grinder.


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

i worked on it most of the day. Could not find 1 1/8 " tubing so i went with 1 " heated it with a hair dryer put some WD40 on the drain valve and then tightened the clamp. That worked on the outside drain but the inside was another story. i had to make the hose a little longer for the round cutout to fit and there was no way to put any pre- made glass cloth on the underside there just was not any room to do that and get the hose attached. It was so tight that I could not get the clamp on. I tired to hot glue the inside cut out drain but it would not hold so I made some hot resin and put it around the hole while holding the cut out with a pair on needle nose pliers. I also put squares of 1708 around it and put more resin on to wet it. What a mess

I plan to sand and paint tomorrow


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Forgot to mention that I put foam under the bait well before i attached the hose then squirted more in before I closed it up


----------



## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Squirt more in and then use it to support the piece.


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Started sanding (fairing) this evening and found a small hole in the perimeter. I thought I got all the hot glue out. So I took some mat and stuffed it in the hole and put a small piece of 1708 then wet it all with resin

Stop laughing [smiley=1-lmao.gif] [smiley=1-lmao.gif]


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

The hole I cut what a beauty










The hose is suppose to be 1 1/8 but all I could find was 1" so heat from a hir dryer and some WD 40 and its on with a clamp










Resin and 1708 Ducknut sent me. Yes I don't know what I am doing but I am sanding will paint with Bilge Koat and roll on. it will not be used for bait, it's to small and if I store anything in it then it will have to be waterproof like a cast net .BUT it does not leak in to the sponson any more


----------



## CurtisWright (May 9, 2012)

You didn't grind a relief. That's going to delaminate


----------



## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

Make sure you are wearing a mask with cartridges when you are working with the resin as well as sanding. A simple dust mask won't cut it.


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

> Make sure you are wearing a mask with cartridges when you are working with the resin as well as sanding. A simple dust mask won't cut it.


Thanks for your help I go get one


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

I went to HD and bought a double insert mask for lead dust. That should work. I hope it won't delaminate per CW


----------



## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

Does it have the disposable cartridges? The resin fumes and micro particles from sanding are nasty stuff. Hope it doesn't delam on you either. If you see any of the edges starting to lift then you will know you have an issue that you need to addreas.


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Yes it has disposable cartridges 

Thanks for your help


----------



## CurtisWright (May 9, 2012)

I am sorry for being such a hard ass.  You can tell me to shut up when your sick of my advice.  You need to grind it out and start over.  As soon as you drop something in there its going to punch the center out.  

If you grind all of it out with 36 grit on an angle grinder,  even the slop on the sides then you will have it prepped enough to do it right.  From the pictures it looks like the wall is about 1/4" thick. You should grind a relief about 1/8" deep all the way around to lay multiple layers in there and when it cures it will be flush.

Now,  Tape up the edges with masking tape and paper.  only the part where the glass will land should be exposed.  Cut your 2 layers of 1708 perfectly to fit in your relief and then cut them into 4 sections. Pre wet 2 pieces out on a sheet of cardboard to keep the bait well clean and lay them in around the hot glue wait until it cures. (if there are any stray strands of glass sticking over your masking tape, trim them with a razor as the resin is getting hot but just before it fully hardens.   Peel the hot glue out and lay the other 6 pieces in.  Stagger the seams.  Trim the loose ends as detailed above.   With the 1/8" relief you should be about level with the existing glass now.  Stick a grinder in there and hit the top of the repair to knock it just below the existing glass. Remove all your tape and paper, fill and fair.


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

CW I appreciate all your help and those who have guided me through this process. I am not good at this but with you and everyone else it looks like it is working. 

I don't have all the tools that everyone mentions and the space is small to work in. So I have to do what I can with what I have to get results

Thanks again for all the help


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

The Creature From the Fiberglass Lagoon

used some old swim goggles (I am a long distance swimmer) and my new mask for sanding


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Also had a buff on to keep down the itch


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

I am planning to start the second bait well this week and plan to make a bigger hole. With a 6" hole saw there was not enough room to put the 1708 strips below the hole. So I plan to cut a bigger square in the bottom with a Hack Saw or Manual hole saw by fist drilling a hole to start. I need to have enough room to keep the cloth away from the hole

With your help I have learned enough to finish


----------



## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

If you wet out some cloth and let it cure then cut it to size you can easily glue them up to support the plug.


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Right that's why I need a bigger hole


----------



## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Make it look like a donut and cut it in half and do one side at a time.


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

You won't believe this. I thought before I cut another hole in my boat I need to check the bait well to see if the drain hose is connected. So I pushed a weed wacker cord through from the the outside and damn it came out on the inside meaning the hose is connected. Just to make sure I poured water from the inside and wow it came out the drain. I don't plan on using these for bait because there so small I'll just use it for storage

Thanks to everyone who helped me on this project. Now I can post pictures on braggadocio soon of my completed restore
[smiley=1-biggrin.gif] [smiley=1-beer.gif] [smiley=1-beer-german.gif]


----------



## [email protected] (Nov 6, 2013)

Congrats!!! I know doing that type of stuff is way more rewarding and normally a lot cheaper. NORMALLY !!!!


----------



## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Thanks Spruce your right. I was glad I did not have to do more fiberglass work. I was very please the one I did is working


----------

