# Fowl River 16 Build



## CurtisWright

http://s1070.photobucket.com/albums/u495/curtwrig/?action=view&current=RibLayout.jpg#!oZZ2QQcurrentZZhttp%3A%2F%2Fs1070.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fu495%2Fcurtwrig%2F%3Faction%3Dview%26current%3DSternB4PLYWD.jpg

http://s1070.photobucket.com/albums/u495/curtwrig/?action=view&current=RibLayout.jpg#!oZZ2QQcurrentZZhttp%3A%2F%2Fs1070.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fu495%2Fcurtwrig%2F%3Faction%3Dview%26current%3DSternB4PLYWD.jpg

http://s1070.photobucket.com/albums/u495/curtwrig/?action=view&current=RibLayout.jpg#!oZZ3QQcurrentZZhttp%3A%2F%2Fs1070.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fu495%2Fcurtwrig%2F%3Faction%3Dview%26current%3DSideViewB4Bottom.jpg

http://s1070.photobucket.com/albums/u495/curtwrig/?action=view&current=RibLayout.jpg#!oZZ4QQcurrentZZhttp%3A%2F%2Fs1070.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fu495%2Fcurtwrig%2F%3Faction%3Dview%26current%3DFaringBow.jpg


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## Batt34786

You builders are amazing.


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## hookemdano

I met some guys at a boat ramp about 2 weeks ago that told me about this project. Think they may have been on your current boat. Looks like an awesome project. Interested to see it completed. Good luck.


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## CurtisWright

I had a long dissertation typed on this boat before I posted originally, but lost it in the process of attaching pictures. Here goes again. Its got a variable deadrise hull. 12DEG at midship 4DEG at the transom. The gunels are 18" tall. Once the mold is complete I will wax in a 4" tunnel. I will most likley make a fiberglass test hull before spending the money on kevlar. 

My goal is to have a boat built with carbon-kevlar/vynalester like an ECC or HB but at a materials + a little help from a friend cost.


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## CurtisWright




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## GSTORY

I wish I had your talent. Can't wait to see this thing out on fowl river!!


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## oysterbreath

Welcome to the dysfunctional family of microskiff boat builders! 
That's looking real good! So Are you planning to go commercial with this designs? Not too many people around here build from a mold unless they have commercial plans. What sort of puddy/ fairing compound is that you are using?


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## disporks

Looks like fun! Cant wait to see the final product


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## CurtisWright

> Welcome to the  dysfunctional family of microskiff boat builders!
> That's looking real good! So Are you planning to go commercial with this designs? Not too many people around here build from a mold unless they have commercial plans. What sort of puddy/ fairing compound is that you are using?


I am an Engineer by trade, and I love my job. I have no commercial plans for this hull. I plan to offer it to Mobile Fiberplastics in payment for their help making it. If they dont want it I will lend it out with instructions to friends and other do-it your-selfers out there. The fairing compound is sheet rock mud. It seems to be working well. Its easy to sand. I am gong to paint it with an epoxy primer and topcoat when I am done fairing. It should be just enough to get a mold off it. Fiberglass shrinks about 1% as it cures. I am sure some of it will crack under the mold. If there are any indications when I remove the mold from the plug , I will have to wet sand and and reapply the gel-coat.


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## CurtisWright

*Update: Fairing Pics*

More pictures of the fairing.  Looking good, but still a long ways to go.

Enjoy!
http://s1070.photobucket.com/albums/u495/curtwrig/

My apoligies, I cannot get the image link to work right now


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## jerm

> You builders are amazing.


I agree. Anyone who builds there own boat like this and many other ones on this forum have way more talent then I. I am sure over time with the knowledge from everyone on Microskiff.com, I would have the confidence to do it myself. But these guys have skills for sure IMO.


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## jerm

Its really easy..... When looking at your album on photobucket. put cursor over the picture without clicking on it. Then at the bottom of the little options of the pop up it says "IMG code". Click on the code and it will say "copied" in that box. Then just paste in the reply box here in the forum.


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## CurtisWright

Thanks hookedontail


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## GoldSpoon

Looking Good CWright, subscribed for some ideas!


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## melbatoast

*v-jon thread*

Here is a link to a similar version of cwrights current skiff and some of the work done at Fiber-plastics: http://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1249503267/19

Lookin forward to helping with the layup on the mold on this new hull very soon !


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## CurtisWright

I got the primer on this weekend.  It needs to be sanded smooth and sprayed with a polyurethane top coat.


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## Bob

It's kind of hard to tell by the pictures, but it looks like you carry a "reverse chine" lip all the way forward to the bow. This can make for a lot of hull slap when poling. Not sure if stealth is a consideration in the type of fishing you have planned.

Just my opinion & everybody's got one. Good luck with the build - Bob


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## blittle

> It's kind of hard to tell by the pictures, but it looks like you carry a "reverse chine" lip all the way forward to the bow.  This can make for a lot of hull slap when poling.



As long as the chine is under water this skiff looks stealthy, but if it drafts less then the chine break height it will get a little clapage.

I made this mistake on my previous skiff making the chine break at the bow at 5-6". With a fat dude on the back and a light person on the bow the bow would draft less thn 5" and cause some clapping.


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## CurtisWright

Yes Bob, it does have a reverse chine all the way to the bow.  Its intention is to help with a dryer ride.  Most of the fishing I do is in the Biloxi Marsh area for reds.  In my current boat I get soaked in 1-1.5ft wind chop in the bigger lakes.  I am concerned a little with hull slap, and knew it would be a bit of an issue, but lousiana reds arent the smartest.

Little, the keel of the boat at its deepest point is is 5" below the chine.  It will be close...

Any suggestions on how to keep the dry ride and have no hull slap?


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## blittle

> Little, the keel of the boat at its deepest point is is 5" below the chine.  It will be close...
> 
> Any suggestions on how to keep the dry ride and have no hull slap?


I would sleep well with a 5" break. 

Don't let me hinder your build time or design, but it's not too late to add rolled gunnels to your plug. You could keep the rolled gunnels thick (or long) in the area of spray like I did on my skiff. I haven't taken my skiff in anything over 1'-2' waves but it's suprisingly dry.

Or just add aftermarket spray rails. 

http://www.thesmartrail.com/product/order.htm


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## CurtisWright

Yea, we'll see. I am going to stick with the design I have. I am sure I will have many more builds in the future to change everyting I dont like about this one. I dont plan on ever having it in anything greater than 2' seas.


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## CurtisWright

Well, I was on a fishing vacation in Alaska a few weeks ago, but just got back to working on the boat.  I added a flange and got it faired in.  By the end of this weekend I will be ready to start the mold.


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## cturner149

New pics look awesome! Can't wait to see this boat in action.


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## CurtisWright

I have still been trying hard to get it fair.  I am almost there.  Hopefully I will be starting the glass work soon.  I thought this was a cool pic and wanted to share it.


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## rcmay

Where in Mobile are you?


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## CurtisWright

The boat is on Fowl River. I'm in midtown.


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## JBMitziSkiff

Man nice build! I have a Mitzi Skiff probably the only one around Daphne AL. It looks just like the hull you are building. I would live to check out your work in person or just to talk about it. You are welcome to take a trip in my boat as well to get a feel of that hull. Only difference is mine is not a tunnel.


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## CurtisWright

Well guys, I thought I was going to be done a few months ago but it turns out that fairing is very difficult.  I ended up painting grey paint over the white so I could see my the high spots better.  I was just using Kilz primer.  It worked ok, but had a tendancy to clog the sand paper.   I got it as close as possible then sprayed an epoxy primer over it.  The high gloss really pointed out some flaws.  Also my sprayer had a hard time handeling it because it was so thick.  It was spitting alot.  Here is some more build porn for the bragging spot.


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## cutrunner

So you gonna build a mold off of this?


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## CurtisWright

Cut, Yes I am hopefully in a week or two.


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## CurtisWright

I got the last coat of paint on it this weekend.  She is ready for mold.


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## blittle

Looks good CW.


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## cturner149

I can't freaking wait to see this boat on the water!


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## cutrunner

Looks good! What did you use to paint it?

Now, not that im trying to nitpick it, but i see some orange peel in the paint. Are you going to wetsand and buff before you pull a mold off of it, or wetsand and buff the mold? Or neither?
Im sure you already knew about it. And i know your doing a sick build with epoxy vacum bag and kevlar etc.


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## CurtisWright

I used an HVLP gun with a 1.4MM nozzle.  Yea, there is a bit of orange peel, I couldnt get the gun to atomize the paint any better.    I am going to wet sand it this weekend starting with 320 grit and working my way to 1200.  Then start waxing. I did change my mind about the kevlar. I am going to use a biaxial 18oz E-Glass and Polester resin for the first hull and see how the boat runs. I am still going to vaccum bag it for practice. If it works good I will try and sell it for what I have in it and build a kevlar one.


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## GoldSpoon

LOOKING GOOD T-BOY!


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## CurtisWright

Hey Fellas, I bought a DA Orbital sander this weekend and went to town with some 1000 and 1500grit sand paper. I got all the eggshell out and started waxing it. I got two coats of wax on it and still have a few more to go. I'll be spraying PVA on it this weekend, and hopefully starting the mold. 
FYI to the other DIY'er out there. The DA sander is way better than the electric orbital that I have been using. It sands ~5x faster.


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## JBMitziSkiff

Wow. Skiff is coming right along. I need to swing by see it in person. I restored a freshwater boat in 2001 and it took my like 2 years of weekend work of course about a 3 4 month break in between, but it turned out nice. 

JB


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## CurtisWright

I started the mold this weekend.  After sanding my final coat of paint with 1000 and 1500 grit paper, I waxed the plug 4 times with turtle wax, then used my hvlp to very lightly dust 12 coats of PVA on it.  Once that cured I sprayed Polycorp tooling gelcoat on with an ES 100 Cup gun, let it cure then applied a coat of 1.5oz Chopped mat.  Next I will lay up another layer of mat and a layer of woving at the same time.  Mat has excelent bonding properties.  Woving has excellent strength.


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## blittle

"the anxiety stage"

Good job.

You shot a cup gun in your garage? I hope you put up some good cloth. Those things can be wild to operate.


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## Brett

> Next I will lay up another layer of mat and a layer of woving


I figure that last word is a contraction for woven roving (heavy weave fiberglass)
Never used any fabric in the base layers of a fiberglass mold, always random orientation mat.
Never liked the pattern bleed that would show up in the mold surface when fabric was used.
How are you going to get past that? Maybe it doesn't matter?  :-?


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## cutrunner

I though that "print thru" (what brett is talking about) was caused by kicking the glass too hot or too many layers at once?


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## JBMitziSkiff

> Next I will lay up another layer of mat and a layer of woving
> 
> 
> 
> I figure that last word is a contraction for woven roving (heavy weave fiberglass)
> Never used any fabric in the base layers of a fiberglass mold, always random orientation mat.
> Never liked the pattern bleed that would show up in the mold surface when fabric was used.
> How are you going to get past that? Maybe it doesn't matter?  :-?
Click to expand...

Thought about that as well..... What to do about the bleed now that it Will show up? How do you account for that roughness as well? Are you going to shoot it again with finished gel coat?

Man I love watching people build these things!! I want to do one from scratch, but I think my 2 year old would not allow that.


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## CurtisWright

> "the anxiety stage"
> 
> Good job.
> 
> You shot a cup gun in your garage?  I hope you put up some good cloth.  Those things can be wild to operate.


I used PVA.  The stuff dries like a condom over the plug.  I have alot of confidence in it.  

No, I just made my dad really angry and spent an hour with acetone and a rag wiping it off the floor.   I'll have to repaint the walls when the project is done.


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## CurtisWright

> Next I will lay up another layer of mat and a layer of woving
> 
> 
> 
> I figure that last word is a contraction for woven roving (heavy weave fiberglass)
> Never used any fabric in the base layers of a fiberglass mold, always random orientation mat.
> Never liked the pattern bleed that would show up in the mold surface when fabric was used.
> How are you going to get past that? Maybe it doesn't matter?  :-?
Click to expand...

Brett,  I dont see how 18oz woven will add any defects to the mold. Are you saying that it can distort 20mils of gelcoat and an already cured layer of 1.5oz mat?  I guess I could put a few more layers of mat on before I put a layer of woven on. I am going to use woven to glass some 2x8's to the bottom for rigidity.


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## Brett

> Fiber Prominence: The appearance of reinforcement fibers in the surface of a molded part. Can also be termed pattern print-through, strike-through, pattern bleed or fiber pattern.


Don't know why but the fabric pattern will show up in the mold, unless there are enough layers
between the woven fabric and the gel-coat. The few molds I've worked on were almost entirely
mat in order to prevent that problem from showing up in the finished product. I wasn't in charge,
just a grunt following the instructions of the hull designer/builder. That's why I asked.
Never fully understood the logic, as the hull was layers of mat and roving anyhow.

Summer jobs are educational. ;D


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## CurtisWright

> Fiber Prominence: The appearance of reinforcement fibers in the surface of a molded part. Can also be termed pattern print-through, strike-through, pattern bleed or fiber pattern.
> 
> 
> 
> Don't know why but the fabric pattern will show up in the mold, unless there are enough layers
> between the woven fabric and the gel-coat. The few molds I've worked on were almost entirely
> mat in order to prevent that problem from showing up in the finished product. I wasn't in charge,
> just a grunt following the instructions of the hull designer/builder. That's why I asked.
> Never fully understood the logic, as the hull was layers of mat and roving anyhow.
> 
> Summer jobs are educational.  ;D
Click to expand...

Thanks for sharing. Thats good info. I will put another layer of mat on first just to be sure.


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## CurtisWright

6 Months of work (the plug) was destroyed in about 2hours christmas morning.  It resulted in the coolest thing that I have ever done.  Ill have to do a little wet sanding and polishing in the mold, but should be pretty straight foward from here.


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## cutrunner

What happened?


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## CurtisWright

> What happened?


I tore the plug apart to get the mold off. It was all part of the plan though. I have a mold now!


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## cutrunner

Oh yea i saw that, i thought u meant that you hurt the mold.


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## JBMitziSkiff

Ahhhh Ha good scare from the post! Glad it came out ok. Now more fun begins again!! Looks great so far.


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## JBMitziSkiff

Are you putting a liner in this boat?


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## CurtisWright

> Are you putting a liner in this boat?


No, I am going to hand lay the decks. It will look similar to the shadowcast interior.


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## JBMitziSkiff

> Are you putting a liner in this boat?
> 
> 
> 
> No, I am going to hand lay the decks.  It will look similar to the shadowcast interior.
Click to expand...

Love it man! Great work!


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## blittle

Inspiring.

Good job.


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## CurtisWright

> Inspiring.
> 
> Good job.


Are you thinking of making a mold from yours?


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## TidewateR

congrats! What a big step towards have a completed boat. Also, it seems like you could have a nice New Years bonfire with the scraps!

keep us posted on the remaining build


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## DuckNut

On our canoe molds they had 3 layers of mat followed by alternating mat and cloth and the woven was used last to solidify the mold.

Molds had 10-12 layers before woven.

And yes it can distort the one layer of mat that you have already and you will continue to build the hull and never know it until you take it out.

Why not call one of the builders on here and ask them the layup of their molds. Don't want you to waste time and money.


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## Brett

Hey DN, is there an explanation for the physics of pattern bleed?
Can't find one on line, maybe you know the why? :-?


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## CurtisWright

> On our canoe molds they had 3 layers of mat followed by alternating mat and cloth and the woven was used last to solidify the mold.
> 
> Molds had 10-12 layers before woven.
> 
> And yes it can distort the one layer of mat that you have already and you will continue to build the hull and never know it until you take it out.
> 
> Why not call one of the builders on here and ask them the layup of their molds.  Don't want you to waste time and money.


Its already built now. I ended up with 4 layers of 1.5oz Mat followed by an outer layer of Woven. I am only planning to build about 3 hulls from the mold. If it bleeds, then I will just have to fair the boat hull when I pull it out. I'll put about 20mils of gelcoat in the hull. this should give me more than enough to do a little fairing/wet sanding if there is any bleed.


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## CurtisWright

> Hey DN, is there an explanation for the physics of pattern bleed?
> Can't find one on line, maybe you know the why?  :-?


Brett, Polyester resin shrinks about 1% as it cures. I think the shrinking in on the plug essentially presses a patern through the inner layers of the mold. I have little divits in my mold where I glassed the stringers into the bottom to support the boat. I think I am gong to just fair them out of the hull because they are lows in the mold and will be difficult to bring up. I'll just spray a little extra gel coat in thoes areas.


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## CurtisWright

The main lession I learned from all this is that you need to have a bunch of people around and keep going with the mold until you finish. I did a layer a day, mostly by myself and I could only work about 1/2gal of resin every 15min. If I had 8-10 people helping, 4 on each side of the plug with air rollers and two people mixing resin and wetting cloth we could have worked 4 Gal at a time and laid the whole mold in one day. Then I would have a monolithic part. as opposed to having 5 cold joints between layers.

Less internal stresses between layers and a stronger laminate with less air bubbles.


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## DuckNut

Brett, there is a whitepaper on it somewhere but I do not have it handy.

From what I remember (roughly 25 years ago) it is because of thermal conductivity.  Glass/resin will dissapate heat faster than solid glass.  

Heavy roving has lots of 3/8" solid resin pockets surrounded by lots of glass/resin high spots and the high spots cool faster than the pockets.  During the layup process heat is generated and thereby causing different rates of thermal transfer to occur 3/8" at a time.

CW - looking great! Keep the beer cold and you guys will be done in no time at all.


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## Swamp

Thanks for that DuckNut. Question, do you mean that as written or did you mean that solid _resin_ like the pockets in the roving dissipate heat slower than a glass resin matrix? It certainly makes sense to me that the glass fibers can act like a conduit for heat to travel along.
.
Swamp


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## DuckNut

If you look at a heavyweight roving you have a checkerboard look to it with high spots and low spots. The low spots will fill with resin - these are the areas that cool slower than the high spots.

Glass is a great conductor of heat and will transfer the heat away slightly faster than solid resin (ie: low spots).


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## Swamp

Thanks for the clarification, that's what I thought you were saying.


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## oysterbreath

Man, that's good info Brett and Ducknut. I know a lot of people build there molds from polyester resin but do you know if print through is more avoidable by using epoxy?


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## Brett

Never even heard of a fiberglass hull mold made from epoxy.
All were built using polyester resin, probably due to cost per gallon.
In 55 gallon lots, polyester is about $22 per gallon,
epoxy including hardener works out to about $67 per gallon.
Molds are expensive enough in labor without tripling the resin cost.
Certainly don't need a mold to be waterproof.  

Then there's the problem with random strand mat, the binder doesn't dissolve in epoxy.
Have to use a styrene based 'ester resin to get a bubble free lamination.


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## DuckNut

I really do not have a clue if it would be any different with epoxy but my guess is that it would be approximately the same.

As Brett said - not too many people experimenting with molds of that price. A builder can make 3 ester molds for the cost of one epoxy. Doesn't make financial sense.

Let's get back to watching this great build.


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## JBMitziSkiff

Any new pics of the build?? What size motor are you going to be putting on this? Are you gonna make it a tiller, side or center console?


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## CurtisWright

No new pics.  I have been working on the mold.  I had a few air bubbles to fill in and such.  I also wet sanded and polished it because the PVA I used left a slight eggshell impression in it.

I am going hunting this weekend, so there will be no progress.  Next weekend I am going to wax in the tunnel insert (a piece of 12" PVC pipe cut on an angle) and prep the mold.  (unless the weather is good then I am going to LA)  I have the materials lined up to be in for the weekend of Jan 26 and hopefully be able to lay up the hull that weekend.

I am going to test the hull with my 25 yamaha tiller.  If it runs good I am going to get a 30 Etec.  If it needs a little more power I will go with a 40 or 50 tohatsu.  Its going to have a 15" transom.


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## TidewateR

looking forward to updates! 

keeps us posted


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## CurtisWright

Well, I was going to use a tunnel insert from Mobile Fiberplastics, but it diddnt fit perfectly in my mold.  I needed to cut it a little to fit the slightly deeper V of my hull.  So I spent all weekend making a mold and copy of it so I could cut it to fit.  

I will be out of town again this weekend, but planning to build the hull the weekend of FEB 2nd.  We are going to hand lay the glass, then if time permits pull a vacuum on it and try to remove any excess resin.  

We are going to have 6-8people there to put glass and resin in, then throw a peel ply down, a few fleece blankets and beach towles then pull a vacuum and let the blankets soak up some resin.  Then hopefully peel them off.  

Here is the tunnel part still in the mold.  I have to pull it out and shape it.


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## CurtisWright

I got a fever...And the only perscription is more tunnel.


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## JBMitziSkiff

> I got a fever...And the only perscription is more tunnel.



Dude!  Looks like the half of a titan missile nose cone LOL.  That is probably the longest tunnel I have seen.  It will be very interesting to see the results of this much tunnel.


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## CurtisWright

> Dude!  Looks like the half of a titan missile nose cone LOL.  That is probably the longest tunnel I have seen.  It will be very interesting to see the results of this much tunnel.


Its pretty much like a 4x4, with 12" suspension lift and 36" Super Swampers. 

Speed, fuel economy, manuverability, and appeal to the people of south FL go down the crapper, but you can drive it anywhere


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## JBMitziSkiff

> Dude!  Looks like the half of a titan missile nose cone LOL.  That is probably the longest tunnel I have seen.  It will be very interesting to see the results of this much tunnel.
> 
> 
> 
> Its pretty much like a 4x4, with 12" suspension lift and 36" Super Swampers.
> 
> Speed, fuel economy, manuverability, and appeal to the people of south FL go down the crapper, but you can drive it anywhere
Click to expand...

Haha gotcha! Now all it needs is some Bushwhacker extenda extenda extenda fenda flare!


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## 8loco

How's the boat coming? Haven't seen any updates recently.


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## CurtisWright

> How's the boat coming? Haven't seen any updates recently.



Waiting to be built. I need about 6 people around to lay the hull. I have to get the whole first layer in before the it cures or it will begin to peel away from the mold. I have all the materials and the hull waxed. Just trying to schedule friends and a few professionals from a local fiber glass shop. Its proving to be difficult.


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## JBMitziSkiff

> How's the boat coming? Haven't seen any updates recently.
> 
> 
> 
> Waiting to be built.  I need about 6 people around to lay the hull.  I have to get the whole first layer in before the it cures or it will begin to peel away from the mold.  I have all the materials and the hull waxed.  Just trying to schedule friends and a few professionals from a local fiber glass shop.  Its proving to be difficult.
Click to expand...

I live in Baldwin County and willing to help as well! I have worked a lot of resin and matt as well. by means no professional, but i can be an extra hand. Just PM me any details if you need any other help.


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## melbatoast

Hijacking the thread for a sec.

1) From reading the thread... I doubt you will see any print thru from the roven woven in the mold build. They layed enough matte (multiple layers of 1.5oz) in there first, the mold is slick. And, this mold was designed for only a few hulls in mind. Call it a prototype.

2) Mold is waxed, PVA mold release applied and gelcoat is in. They are laying up glass right now. I hope to get to help with additional layers of glass tomorrow:


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## CurtisWright

Melba beat me to it.  The first lay up went ok.  I got the divynal cell foam core a little off center and caused it to not match up with the piece I cut for the transom.  Had to stop and let it cure.  I will have to do a little grinding and fairing of the foam core next weekend then come up with a game plan to get the transom core in.  All I have are a few more pics of the gel coated mold.  more pics of the lay up will follow shortly.   Total weight so far is 11 gal of resin, 5 gal of microbaloon putty, 2.75 gal of gelcoat,  22lbs of glass, and 20 lbs of divynal cell.


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## CurtisWright




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## cutrunner

How are you bracing the mold?


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## CurtisWright

> How are you bracing the mold?


Other than the 2x6's glassed to the bottom there is no bracing. I am going to lay the decks before I get it out of the mold. Also, I glassed a waterhose fitting into the mold so I can float the boat lose. wasnt planning to pry it out.

What is your concern?


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## cutrunner

The flexing of the hullsides is a serious concern.
Rigidity of the mold is compromised and pre-release of the product/part.
To be clear, im not bashing you whatsoever. The boats going to be really cool. Im just offering my 2 cents on how ive learned the hardway


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## CurtisWright

well, its too late now. I guess the worst that could happen is a bit of a wave in the side? 

It will be a good first build. If I make another I am sure I will learn from all my mistakes.


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## cutrunner

Youll pribably be ok given the weathers cool and you dont do to many layers at once and or mix your resin too hot


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## melbatoast

Now that mold won't flex at all with that layer of woven in it


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## cutrunner

Woven is meant to flex , or so I was told


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## JBMitziSkiff

With the wind this past weekend I would have expected some more progress. LOL 
How is it coming?


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## CurtisWright

> With the wind this past weekend I would have expected some more progress.  LOL
> How is it coming?


Yea, unfortunatly I had to work. I should have the transom and the inner layer of glass in this friday. Maybe start on the decks saturday.


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## cutrunner

Whats your plans for the interior?
Simple glassed in floors like the oldschool hellsbays?


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## CurtisWright

> Whats your plans for the interior?
> Simple glassed in floors like the oldschool hellsbays?


I am goin to put 2 layers of 18oz biaxial over the foam and that will be it. Just the foam cored floor. Simple hand laid front and rear decks made from 1/2" divynal.


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## SPECKFISHN

so is Mike going to build him one ?????????


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## CurtisWright

> so is Mike going to build him one ?????????



Who knows. Who is this?


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## SPECKFISHN

> so is Mike going to build him one ?????????
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Who knows.  Who is this?
Click to expand...

Just a friend of Mike. He has bulit me a few v-jons. I like what you have done so far I think it would be a great boat for the new f40 tiller. Wouldn't mind building one , think it will do great around here. Keep up the good work. Skip


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## CurtisWright

> so is Mike going to build him one ?????????
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Who knows.  Who is this?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> Just a friend of Mike. He has bulit me a few v-jons. I like what you have done so far I think it would be a great boat for the new f40 tiller. Wouldn't mind building one , think it will do great around here. Keep up the good work. Skip
Click to expand...

Thanks! The mold will be up for grabs when I pull this hull out so if it works I'm sure he will build one for you.


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## JBMitziSkiff

How's the build coming? Any new pics?


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## CurtisWright

> How's the build coming? Any new pics?


Was just about to post some.  I got the second and final layer of glass in the hull this weekend.  I also made decks and got them cut to fit.    The pictures below just show the decks laying in the mold before the second layer of glass.  I also put some crates and juggs in there to simulate a tiller console and a 50 Qt Yeti

The decks are 1/2" Divynal Cell core with 1.5oz CSM and 24oz Woven on each side.


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## JBMitziSkiff

That boat is going to look great!


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## cutrunner

X2


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## 8loco

It's like McDonalds. I'm loving it.


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## blittle

Looks good C.

You putting a floor in it? Or did you laydown some thick core?


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## CurtisWright

> Looks good C.
> 
> You putting a floor in it?  Or did you laydown some thick core?


The bottom is 1" divynal cell core. Its thick enough to stand alone, but I am going to put a 26" wide flat strip down the middle.


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## CurtisWright

I got the rear deck and floor tabbed in this weekend.


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## 8loco

It's coming together real nice.


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## JBMitziSkiff

So when you gonna pop this baby out of the mold?


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## CurtisWright

Few more weeks. I am working a shut down and wont have any weekends till May 11th. I only need 1 more good day to get the rest of the decks and floor glassed in. I want to get them glassed in while its still in the mold so I dont distort the hull any while I am installing them.


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## Dillusion

I really like this mold. Looks like a mix of a skull island 16 and a shadowcast 16


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## CurtisWright

> I really like this mold. Looks like a mix of a skull island 16 and a shadowcast 16



Thanks!


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## 8loco

You were getting towards the bottom of page 1. How's the progress?


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## CurtisWright

> You were getting towards the bottom of page 1. How's the progress?


I have been working long hours and the weekend the past two weeks. I havent made any more progress. It should be out of the mold around the end of the month.


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## oysterbreath

Awesome awesome awesome!
I had to play catch up on this thread but it's a good read! I can't wait to see it popped off the mold. Question, what did you use to "glue" your flat section down to the sole? Looks like mint green thickened resin? Are you going to foam fill the little void under it?


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## CurtisWright

> Awesome awesome awesome!
> I had to play catch up on this thread but it's a good read! I can't wait to see it popped off the mold. Question, what did you use to "glue" your flat section down to the sole? Looks like mint green thickened resin? Are you going to foam fill the little void under it?



1 part Polyester resin, 2 parts 3M microbaloons, splash of 1/2" glass fibers.   Its green because I mixed a little of my left over green gel coat when I added  the hardener to make sure I had it mixed up well.  No, I am not going to foam fill it.  I am going to glass over the top of the putty with a matte, biax, matte.  I think it will be fine. If it breaks free, I will grind it out and re-consider.


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## cutrunner

Oh yea, liking this so far!
What power do you plan on using?


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## CurtisWright

> Oh yea, liking this so far!
> What power do you plan on using?


I have a Yamaha 25 2 stroke to test it with. If all is well the Coast Guard calcs say I can go to a 40Hp tiller. 

I need a 15" Shaft so I am on the fence between the Tohatsu 40 and the Etec 30. Still a few months of test driving away at least from that difficult decision though.


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## CurtisWright

Drum Roll Please.


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## JBMitziSkiff

WOW! Turned out nice man! That so looks like my Mitzi hull with a tunnel! Really looking good. I bet ya can't wait to get that boat completed. I know that's how I would feel.


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## 8loco

Sweet! I like it


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## DuckNut

Veeery sweeeet


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## CurtisWright

Numbers with myself at 160lb, 110lb mother, 3 gal of fuel and a 99 Yamaha 25HP 2 Stroke 9Px9" 4 Blade Cupped Prop.

Speed: 25.5MPH
Hole Shot: 10 out of 10, Best of any boat I have driven. minimal stern squat
Turning: 3 of 10. ~100Ft minimum turn radius on plane. any sharper and the motor slides out of the tunnel and cavitates.
Hull Slap: 8 of 10. When wind chop gets to about 8" the valley of the wave is low enough that air catches on the bottom chine and makes noise. Less than that there is none.
Draft: ~4-5" but after I load it up with options I imagine it will be 6-7"
On plane draft: Soft Bottom 2", Hard Bottom 1'


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## cutrunner

You didnt waste any time getting it on the water!

So do you like it?


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## CurtisWright

> You didnt waste any time getting it on the water!
> 
> So do you like it?


Yea, very satisfied.   The boat does exactly what I designed it to do.    I set out to build a hybrid of the Texas and Florida style skiffs.  You could call it a Lousiana boat.

1. Gets on plane fast and runs through super shallow mud flats.  I compromised manuverability for this feature.  
2. I also wanted a more comfortable ride than the texas boats. The deeper V in the bow (15DEG deadrise) sacrafices some poling draft for this feature, but I am not chasing bones in 4" of water.  I am chasing Reds in 18"
I hope to fish it this fall pretty hard and learn the quirks.  Then sell it and lay up the  vacuum bagged ultralight expensive kevlar one I had in mind when I started.


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## JBMitziSkiff

Nice C!
So if you get a rider with you on the bow while you pole looks like the bow will go under to prevent that hull slap. 

I bet also if you put a cavitation plate say shaw wing or something similar it would not only prevent blowout but would definitely add some cornering to your skiff. I had an old tidecraft hull that without it cavitated like crazy and with it did not. Also turning using the wing would let the skiff turn like crazy and slide out like crazy without it. 

You should lay one up compression style with some left over mat to try it out.

JB


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## CurtisWright

*Console Pic.*

Does anyone else hate doing fiberglass work in the summer as much as I do?  haha.   

I built the mold and laid up the console with a custom Ipad insert. I still have to trim and prep it. 

The inside of the boat will be gelcoated this weekend. It will be sprayed a very light tan color with a dark brown spaclkle.  

I also ordered a 2013 Tohatsu 40  tiller last week from Stauter Boat works.   Set me back $5600.  More than the total boat build so far.


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## 8loco

You going with a center console or building a helm pad?


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## CurtisWright

> You going with a center console or building a helm pad?



Tiller Console.


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## JBMitziSkiff

*Re: Console Pic.*



> Does anyone else hate doing fiberglass work in the summer as much as I do?  haha.
> 
> I built the mold and laid up the console with a custom Ipad insert.  I still have to trim and prep it.
> 
> The inside of the boat will be gelcoated this weekend. It will be sprayed a very light tan color with a dark brown spaclkle.
> 
> I also ordered a 2013 Tohatsu 40  tiller last week from Stauter Boat works.   Set me back $5600.  More than the total boat build so far.


I wonder if they finally got that Vapor lock issue with the addition of the external fuel pump issue fixed on the T40?  I love the weight of that motor, but still am really pleased with my ETEC.
by the way the IPad console is a sweet addition! Google maps would be cool to use on the water as well instead of my iPhone..


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## CurtisWright

*Re: Console Pic.*



> Does anyone else hate doing fiberglass work in the summer as much as I do?  haha.
> 
> I built the mold and laid up the console with a custom Ipad insert.  I still have to trim and prep it.
> 
> The inside of the boat will be gelcoated this weekend. It will be sprayed a very light tan color with a dark brown spaclkle.
> 
> I also ordered a 2013 Tohatsu 40  tiller last week from Stauter Boat works.   Set me back $5600.  More than the total boat build so far.
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder if they finally got that Vapor lock issue with the addition of the external fuel pump issue fixed on the T40?  I love the weight of that motor, but still am really pleased with my ETEC.
> by the way the IPad console is a sweet addition!  Google maps would be cool to use on the water as well instead of my iPhone..
Click to expand...


Etec dosent make a 40 with PTT in a 15" Shaft. I will have to build up my mold a little more to lay up a boat with a 20" transom. I am losing 6" to the tunnel. It was between the Etec 30 w/o PTT and the Tohatsu 40 with PTT. The Tohatsu was only 400$ more.


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## 8loco

Thats how mine is setup. I have a tiller console as well that ties into my yeti cooler with a tempress QD seat mount.


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## JBMitziSkiff

*Re: Console Pic.*



> Does anyone else hate doing fiberglass work in the summer as much as I do?  haha.
> 
> I built the mold and laid up the console with a custom Ipad insert.  I still have to trim and prep it.
> 
> The inside of the boat will be gelcoated this weekend. It will be sprayed a very light tan color with a dark brown spaclkle.
> 
> I also ordered a 2013 Tohatsu 40  tiller last week from Stauter Boat works.   Set me back $5600.  More than the total boat build so far.
> 
> 
> 
> I wonder if they finally got that Vapor lock issue with the addition of the external fuel pump issue fixed on the T40?  I love the weight of that motor, but still am really pleased with my ETEC.
> by the way the IPad console is a sweet addition!  Google maps would be cool to use on the water as well instead of my iPhone..
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Etec dosent make a 40 with PTT in a 15" Shaft.  I will have to build up my mold a little more to lay up a boat with a 20" transom.    I am losing 6" to the tunnel.  It was between the Etec 30 w/o PTT and the Tohatsu 40 with PTT.   The Tohatsu was only 400$ more.
Click to expand...

Yeah that is a downside with the 40.  My 40 is a 20 in shaft with ptt but my boat handles the 20 with ease.  Although I am about to put my atlas micro jack plate on it.  Should be able to grt close to that 15 in mark and still have enough water.  At least my buddies with same boat in Tampa does


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## CurtisWright

Boat is complete. I still have have to finish rigging the fuel and electircal system then install a few hatch covers.


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## JBMitziSkiff

Looks amazing Curtis! You do good work buddy!! Let's all get together and fish soon.


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## CurtisWright

> Looks amazing Curtis!  You do good work buddy!!  Let's all get together and fish soon.



I think we are going to try and do a Tour De Lousiana  the week of Laborday.     

Cocodrie all the way back to Hopedale.   Right now there are 3 boats and 6 people.  Your's would make a good 4th.


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## 8loco

Can't wait to fish out of it. Go slime it up.


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## JBMitziSkiff

> Looks amazing Curtis!  You do good work buddy!!  Let's all get together and fish soon.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I think we are going to try and do a Tour De Lousiana  the week of Laborday.
> 
> Cocodrie all the way back to Hopedale.   Right now there are 3 boats and 6 people.  Your's would make a good 4th.
Click to expand...

I'll PM ya we can discuss this tour!


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## CurtisWright

Finally started breaking the motor in this weekend. The 40 Tohatsu ran 31WOT and had a comfortable cruise speed of 25.

Boat building is a labor of love...I could have bought a Backcountry Copperhead for less money and 1/3 the time....But I am glad I diddnt.


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## BayStYat

Fishing out of a boat you built must be sweet. 

Great build


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## CurtisWright

Attached is the test ride video, courtesy of Melba_Toast


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## melbatoast

Boat handles very well, it does not slide out much at all on the turns. There is plenty of range with the tilt and trim, you can make the bow come up and porpose, or you can run bow down. Its a very robust 31 mph, there is no difference in speed with an extra person or gear, that's the max hull speed. You can run it about 25 mph at 2/3rds throttle for a great cruising speed. The big tunnel really doesn't hinder the boat much - performance wise. If you haven't ever fished out of a tunnel boat and you are a shallow water angler, you are missing out. You can plane off anywhere and run just about anywhere. He reported 10mpg during the break in, so its surprisingly efficient. It will also stay on a plane down to about 10mph. It also planes off very easily. Trim tabs will help even more with this.

C has a new aluminum trailer on order. The 4-blade prop will also help with the turns, and give it a little more bite in a moderate to heavy chop. He is also getting a lot of aluminum work done, including a poling platform and other accessories.

The 16 length and the slight v in the back make for a very comfortable ride in a light to moderate chop. The boat is also surprisingly dry. The only issue we had, was that it tends to want to run through a wave with too much speed in a following sea. C expected this, its not an open water boat. It does have high sides, like the 14 V-Jon's. The boat handles rough water better than I expected. If you slow down, it will get you home on a rough day.

Overall, its a big damn success! Its a redfish killer, and a lot faster, more comfortable, more room, and just a shallow draft as the 14's we have been running for years.


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## 8loco

Very nice. The smile says it all when you turn on the throttle. Happy, happy, happy


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## TidewateR

Looks like a great marsh boat! Congrats..had to be a great feeling to open up that Tohatsu for the first time. Look forward to seeing it all rigged up.


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## cturner149

> Attached is the test ride video, courtesy of Melba_Toast


Excellent.  Can't wait to fish out of it.

PS - Nice clothes


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## JBMitziSkiff

> Attached is the test ride video, courtesy of Melba_Toast
> 
> 
> 
> Excellent.  Can't wait to fish out of it.
> 
> PS - Nice clothes
Click to expand...

^^ funny I don't miss wearing my Nomex for sure especially right now during the hot months!  

Looks great how does it do with cross wave action against the boat while running?  Spray or anything come over?


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## CurtisWright

> Attached is the test ride video, courtesy of Melba_Toast
> 
> 
> 
> Excellent.  Can't wait to fish out of it.
> 
> PS - Nice clothes
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> ^^ funny I don't miss wearing my Nomex for sure especially right now during the hot months!
> 
> Looks great how does it do with cross wave action against the boat while running?  Spray or anything come over?
Click to expand...


Its a Micro.... Its comfortable to run wide open in any direction with respect to the wind up to about 1ft seas. anything more and you have to slow down and get the bow up to stay dry.


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## JBMitziSkiff

> Attached is the test ride video, courtesy of Melba_Toast
> 
> 
> 
> Excellent.  Can't wait to fish out of it.
> 
> PS - Nice clothes
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> ^^ funny I don't miss wearing my Nomex for sure especially right now during the hot months!
> 
> Looks great how does it do with cross wave action against the boat while running?  Spray or anything come over?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> Its a Micro....  Its comfortable to run wide open in any direction  with respect to the wind up to about 1ft seas.  anything more and you have to slow down and get the bow up to stay dry.
Click to expand...


Not sure what you meant by "its a micro" in referring to my question..... that is a given already. From your video it looks as if it kick spray pretty high on the sides. In windy conditions slow or not it coming back at ya. Anyway, there are micro's that will not get you wet unless you go full bore wot and don't know how to drive a boat. lol Of course there are a ton of things you can do to fix it like spray rails but putting a wave over the bow your screwed anyway.


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## CurtisWright

Purchased a new Sport Trail welded trailer. Eagle towers is finishing up the platforms this week. I will post pics when it is done.


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## 8loco

Looking real purty right there. Hows the Ipad working for your maps?


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## Shalla Wata Rider

WoW, that came out KILLER! Great job  ;D I hope every thing went well...


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## CurtisWright

> Looking real purty right there. Hows the Ipad working for your maps?


It works great. Problems I have noticed so far
1. on really hot days it over heats in the sun and I have to put it inthe cooler for a few minutes.
2. The screen is polarized, so I need to rebuild the console to hold it sideways so I can see it with out having to take my glasses off.

Other than that I really enjoy it.


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## whm302

hell with the ipad thats old school.. get u the new google glasses... google maps point blank at ur eyes without any glare... and ya im not kidding... they are in beta phase..
http://reviews.cnet.com/google-glass/


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## CurtisWright

*The Closing Post*

Took the new boat and the new girlfriend to Delacroix this weekend.   Slimed them both.

Finished the day with 6 reds, all sight fished.


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## GSTORY

Passed you on the interstate on the way back from Hopedale. Boat looked good, like the platforms


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## CurtisWright

> Passed you on the interstate on the way back from Hopedale.  Boat looked good, like the platforms


Did yall find clear water over there? or was it still summertime muddy?


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## GSTORY

Wasn't too bad.  Best water was in the Biloxi marsh, but a lot of the places were slam full of grass.  We had 67 total for the weekend. Got some pictures in "Pics from the region"


----------



## makin moves

Slimed both ;D ;D


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## BayStYat

I saw this boat Monday morning at the launch, freaking awesome.


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## CurtisWright

> I saw this boat Monday morning at the launch, freaking awesome.


Thanks Bay


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## 8loco

Did you get all the aluminum work done?


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## CurtisWright

> Did you get all the aluminum work done?


Local guy in mobile. Eagle Towers. The guy is a great welder, but doesn't think a lot of things through. Like pointing rod holders towards the driver seat.


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## CurtisWright

I sold the mold to the Fowl River 16 to Slayer Skiffs down in Perry FL near Talahassee.  It is now called the "Slayer Mini 16".  I called the owner Mike yesterday and they have made 5 of them with good success.  Here are some photos he sent me of one with a 40 Honda. Depending on how they are rigged he said he was selling hulls from $5500 and up.  He had even built one with Kevlar.  I am on cloud 9 right now knowing that someone else wanted to buy a boat that I created.    If there is any interest out there at all I can foward you his contact info.  He is a great guy.


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## Shalla Wata Rider

Mike Vernise in Perry?


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## CurtisWright

Yes. I believe that's his last name


----------

