# Jaredh's FS18 Build



## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

Hoping to clean up the taping tonight then finish laying fabric tomorrow night. Ill try to update as things progress.


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## CodyW (Jan 26, 2016)

How much was the kit? Looks like a simple build I'd get into.


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## 1945weston67 (Dec 1, 2012)

Nice, I like your other build too


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Following. So this is not the rounded chine that I see the most of?


PS - that V8 on the garage floor is a little overkill for that skiff no?


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

CodyW said:


> How much was the kit? Looks like a simple build I'd get into.


The kit including plans and all glass/epoxy was about $2500 shipped.


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

1945weston67 said:


> Nice, I like your other build too


Thanks! Fun process and good first project but a little tippy for me.


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

Sublime said:


> Following. So this is not the rounded chine that I see the most of?
> 
> 
> PS - that V8 on the garage floor is a little overkill for that skiff no?


This is the standard chine, I prefer the aesthetics and it makes for a simpler build.

The 351w is for an old mako I/o I've got, Fs18 will likely be getting a 25hp mercury 4s.


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

Sublime said:


> Following. So this is not the rounded chine that I see the most of?
> 
> 
> PS - that V8 on the garage floor is a little overkill for that skiff no?


With those cement blocks he glued to the bottom he'll need that V8


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

seapro17sv said:


> With those cement blocks he glued to the bottom he'll need that V8


Hey Jared, Just joking about the cement blocks. Since you've been on the Bateau forum, I go by Seaslug, and built the FS18 last winter and just recently finished the FS14 low sheer. If you have any questions about the build just ask, and if you're near Flagler Beach, you're welcome to check mine out any time. I never had the chance to see a boat prior to my build, which would have been nice, and helpful in making the decision as to whether I wanted to actually build it. Are you building the low sheer version? Mike


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

seapro17sv said:


> Hey Jared, Just joking about the cement blocks. Since you've been on the Bateau forum, I go by Seaslug, and built the FS18 last winter and just recently finished the FS14 low sheer. If you have any questions about the build just ask, and if you're near Flagler Beach, you're welcome to check mine out any time. I never had the chance to see a boat prior to my build, which would have been nice, and helpful in making the decision as to whether I wanted to actually build it. Are you building the low sheer version? Mike


I have definitely ready through some of your questions and build thread on bateau2.com in my research prior to starting the project. Very appreciative of the wealth of info out there about building a FS18.

I'm sure I'll have some questions as things progress, and appreciate the offer to check your boat out. Unfortunately I am up in Maine so its pretty likely I'll see one of these in person before mine is done.

I am building the standard sheer, its often windy up here and I like the idea of having a lip on the forward deck to keep fly line from blowing overboard, there is nothing more frustrating than struggling with managing line as a fish cruises out of casting range.

Planning on a tiller motor, and a small console with grab handle with space for a cooler in front if it.


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

I am trying to remember whether I've ever seen anyone build the hard chine/regular sheer version. I don't think I have, so you might be the first to build the FS18 without modification. I agree about having that regular sheer as a towrail around the bow. I also like the aesthetics of the raised sheer more anyway. 

Have fun with the build. That is a good winter project. Once the snow in Maine melts next July (), we expect to see a finished product bobbing amongst the icebergs.

Nate


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## islandguides (Feb 8, 2016)

JaredH, nice looking build. I've had my eye on the fs18 and have plans for it myself. Id have the same usage of it as you I think, sight casting stripers in some shallow. What part of Maine you fishing?


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

islandguides said:


> JaredH, nice looking build. I've had my eye on the fs18 and have plans for it myself. Id have the same usage of it as you I think, sight casting stripers in some shallow. What part of Maine you fishing?


Plan on fishing in the pine pt/Scarborough marsh area and Casco bay. I live in Scarborough but we keep our other boat in Falmouth. Have done some charters with a guide up here named Eric Wallace who specializes in sight fishing here in the summer and in the keys in the spring. I'm definitely hooked.


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

Last night I got the bottom sanded and fiberglass cloth laid after work. Total time was about 7 hours... definitely feeling it at work today! The fiberglass supplied with the kit did not make it 6 inches past the chine with a 6 inch overlap in the middle when cut lengthwise, so I decided to glass the entire outside. I will have to purchase some glass for the inside of the hull now and some additional epoxy, anyone have any tips on quantity??

I tried 2 different methods of wetting out the glass. For the first side I tried laying it onto the hull dry, and saturating the cloth from the outside. This was more challenging to wet out by I was more accurately able to place the glass. For the second half I rolled epoxy onto the hull then placed the glass. This made wet out easier and I used a bit less epoxy. Total epoxy use was 11 24oz batches, which I know is on the heavy side but there was a bit of waste on the floor and containers, and I don't believe I could have fully wet out the glass with less at my skill level.

My next plans are to create a dam for the transom and 6ft up each chine and pour some epoxy to sharpen the edges. Then I will glue on the skeg and fairing will begin.

I am however confused about the rub rail, is this supposed to be laminated layers of ply, or a single strip? Can use dimensional lumber? I would like to varnish the rub rail to add a bit of brightwork to the hull. Any ideas would be appreciated.

Anyways, here are some pictures.





































I cranked the heat in the garage to 65 to speed up cure time. Its warmer than my house right now!


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

Nice progress and very neat work. I agree with your lamination. That overlap in the middle is good insurance if you bump and grind on rocks/oysters/sand and taking it all the way up the sides is a good plan also. A barnacle encrusted dock pylon can chew through paint to wood very quickly without a layer of glass. However, you added a bit less than 6# to your build if you laid a perfect 50:50 lamination. Don't get in the habit of overbuilding or you'll end up with a much heavier boat than you hoped for. For example, you don't need to go all the way up on the interior of the hull. The decks and gunnels will protect the upper surfaces of the interior sides. It looks like you used an extra 19-20' of glass cloth on the exterior, so I'd order at least that much more. I buy the 3 gallon kits of epoxy as I need them. This allowed me to adapt to ambient temps. You are getting good with epoxy and should be able to use fast cure at the temps in your garage.

I wet cloth out cloth in place now because it is faster and leaves many fewer wrinkles to work out. Precoating the wood first is supposed to help prevent absorption by the wood from starving your lamination, but I never really noticed a problem with starved laminations when laying cloth without a precoat and I feel my resultant laminations are closer to 50:50. I still coat the wood before I lay down bi-ax tape because I like tape to stick where I put it when I am wetting that thick crap out, but tape is much more manageable than 48" wide cloth. 

I used ply for the rub rail on mine, but never again. It is hard to seal the edges of ply even with epoxy and it is a sloppy area to cover with glass. I'll make all my future rub rails out of dimensional lumber because it is easier to mill prior to installation and seal thereafter. Another cool thing about dimensional wood which I see you are already are thinking about that is that you can use an attractive wood (caveat: attractive yet still flexible/rock maple won't work well/I'd use cedar or cypress or ash) and leave the rail bright, which nicely accents the painted hull. If you do this, I'd recommend using 4 oz woven cloth to cover the rub rail because that weight doesn't distort the wood grain much, but will still help with abrasion resistance. Use a clear epoxy that is marketed for table tops to wet it out. Most of the epoxies we use for boat construction cure to an amber color. You'll still have to use some type of UV resistanct polyurethane topcoat to protect the epoxy from UV damage.

Keep up the good work.

Nate


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

WhiteDog70810 said:


> Nice progress and very neat work. I agree with your lamination. That overlap in the middle is good insurance if you bump and grind on rocks/oysters/sand and taking it all the way up the sides is a good plan also. A barnacle encrusted dock pylon can chew through paint to wood very quickly without a layer of glass. However, you added a bit less than 6# to your build if you laid a perfect 50:50 lamination. Don't get in the habit of overbuilding or you'll end up with a much heavier boat than you hoped for. For example, you don't need to go all the way up on the interior of the hull. The decks and gunnels will protect the upper surfaces of the interior sides. It looks like you used an extra 19-20' of glass cloth on the exterior, so I'd order at least that much more. I buy the 3 gallon kits of epoxy as I need them. This allowed me to adapt to ambient temps. You are getting good with epoxy and should be able to use fast cure at the temps in your garage.
> 
> I wet cloth out cloth in place now because it is faster and leaves many fewer wrinkles to work out. Precoating the wood first is supposed to help prevent absorption by the wood from starving your lamination, but I never really noticed a problem with starved laminations when laying cloth without a precoat and I feel my resultant laminations are closer to 50:50. I still coat the wood before I lay down bi-ax tape because I like tape to stick where I put it when I am wetting that thick crap out, but tape is much more manageable than 48" wide cloth.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the tips! I definitely will keep an eye on weight moving forward.

I hadn't through of the bartop epoxy, that would work great. I even have some left over from a island I built in my kitchen (forgive the unvarnished mahogany bar rail).


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

Nice Scotch. My father in law always gives me Lagavulin neat, which is like scorching my noise with peat smoke, but after I add a cube of ice when he isn't looking, all is well. It will warm you up in the cold.

The bar is very cool also. I like the charts.

Nate


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

All good advice from Nate, but since you've seen my build pics, I did actually use rock Maple that I had left over from a job and at 3/8" the the bend wasn't a problem, so it's an option. I also used it on my FS14 LS and that one was a tough bend, and I still made it work without kerfing. The 14 with first layer of fir clamped, and the finished Maple....Your work area sure is more organized than mine was. My garage looked like we just experienced
View attachment 4247
View attachment 4248
an earthquake. Mike


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

seapro17sv said:


> All good advice from Nate, but since you've seen my build pics, I did actually use rock Maple that I had left over from a job and at 3/8" the the bend wasn't a problem, so it's an option. I also used it on my FS14 LS and that one was a tough bend, and I still made it work without kerfing. The 14 with first layer of fir clamped, and the finished Maple....Your work area sure is more organized than mine was. My garage looked like we just experienced
> View attachment 4247
> View attachment 4248
> an earthquake. Mike


Thanks for the info, Ill have to see what my local lumber yard has available.


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## 1945weston67 (Dec 1, 2012)

Nice job. Looking good.


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Sublime said:


> Following. So this is not the rounded chine that I see the most of?
> 
> 
> PS - that V8 on the garage floor is a little overkill for that skiff no?


That's a mud motor


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

Jared you are doing great! Personally I don't like the idea of just coated ply so I glass every surface even if it's not required. Usually with 4-6oz glass which takes about the same epoxy as you would use neat coating it 2-3 times anyway. over the whole project it might add 20lbs, but to me makes a more durable boat in my mind at least.

How are you spreading and smoothing the resin over the glass? I'm not a fan of chip brushes, I think you end up wasting a lot of resin with them. I found when I used those little 3" pink rollers I could glass much faster, more evenly, and used about 25% less resin. Also do you have a glass roller for smoothing the glass after applying resin, this tool is a lifesaver and I'll never glass without it. I've never had an air bubble since I started using them.

Oh a tip I didn't find out until after my first build was near done. Vinegar for clean up! I went through a gallon or so of acetone before I found out that cheap white vinegar from the grocery store works just as well when cleaning up uncured resin from tools and you.

I look forward to you final result. I might be starting a FS17 later this year, very different boat, but same build family.


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

firecat1981 said:


> Jared you are doing great! Personally I don't like the idea of just coated ply so I glass every surface even if it's not required. Usually with 4-6oz glass which takes about the same epoxy as you would use neat coating it 2-3 times anyway. over the whole project it might add 20lbs, but to me makes a more durable boat in my mind at least.
> 
> How are you spreading and smoothing the resin over the glass? I'm not a fan of chip brushes, I think you end up wasting a lot of resin with them. I found when I used those little 3" pink rollers I could glass much faster, more evenly, and used about 25% less resin. Also do you have a glass roller for smoothing the glass after applying resin, this tool is a lifesaver and I'll never glass without it. I've never had an air bubble since I started using them.
> 
> ...


I ended up pouring the epoxy onto the glass then using a 12" drywall putty spreader to work it in. I only used a chip brush to saturate dry spots after the initial spread before going over it again with the metal spreader. This seemed to work well for me.

I do like the small foam rollers for coating a surface, but haven't found my groove with them for laminating. Same story on the grooved rollers.

Thanks for the tip on the vinegar!


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

So I got back to it after the holidays last night and tonight. I have the week off from work so am going for a big push through the weekend. I would like to be flipping the hull next week. I am going for an ok finish below the chine which will be painted with a graphite epoxy mix. From the chine up I plan on spending some more time to get a smooth finish. I am going to paint the hull sides from the chine up with petit epoxy paint that is platinum in color. I liked this color scheme on my FS13.

Last night I spent about 3 hours using the RO sander with 60 grit discs to clean up the fiberglass work. Even at 55 it was hot in the tyvek and face mask, I don't know how you southern guys do it.










I finally found some mahogany for the rub rail today at a hardwood lumber store in Portland. It was my 3rd and final store to try so I was excited that they had what I needed. They milled the board down to 1.5" so I can rip 1/4" strips on the table saw. I should have enough left over to trim out the inside lip of the cockpit too.










The next task was to make and attach the skeg. It is shorter than the plans called for but I didn't have any longer lumber in the shop, so on it went. I ripped the board on the table saw to 1" x 1", then rounded the edges with a sureform and hit it with the sander. Then marked the location and attached it with some epoxy thickened with wood flour and some temporary nails.





































Next up was a dam to hold some epoxy to create hard chines. I has come seep through, and am skeptical about how this will look in the morning. I may be sanding off some gorilla tape that is epoxied onto the hull. Plywood for the dam is coated in packing tape.
































































Thats it for work tonight. Hoping to tape the skeg and cleanup the chines in the morning. Ideally I would like to get a coat of quickfair on in the morning too so I can begin sanding in the evening.


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

I have started thinking about power, systems/accessories, and deck layout while planning the future steps of the build.

I am leaning towards a mercury 20hp tiller with elec start and trim for the engine. At 115lbs (probably with manual everything) it is significantly lighter than the 25hp. Anyone have any experience with this power on an FS18? Expected speed?

I am also planning on a fuel tank built in forward, does anyone have a specific size off the shelf tank that has worked for their build?

Looking at some pictures online, I think I would like to have a offset grab bar like this built:










I would want to make a small box to house switches and possibly mount a small gps/fishfinder between the uprights. I also like the poling platform style in that photo.

One of the big pluses of the side mounted bar and "console" would be the ability to run any wiring under the gunnel, I am a bit leery of any penetrations through the cockpit sole long term for fear of water intrusion.

I have settled on lenco 9x9 trim tabs, but am unsure about a jack plate. Any recommendations for this hull? I would like something electric/hydraulic. The only additional systems will be nav lights, fuel guage, and possibly a stereo. Trying my best to keep it simple.

Any thoughts concerns or criticisms would be appreciated!


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

Look up the specs on the Suzuki 20 hp. It gets as good of reviews as any, it weighs less than that Merc and it is fuel injected, which might be nice in the land of ice and snow. 

Honestly, I'd skip the hydraulic JP, power T&T and electric trim tabs on this hull and just get a manual JP. All those powered accoutrements add weight behind the stern and increase the complexity of the build unnecessarily in my opinion. You control the trim of this size/style of boat by moving the load forward or back and you adjust the level by standing to the left or right when operating it. It isn't fast enough, seaworthy enough nor does it carry a big enough payload to need all those bells and whistles.

Just my opinion. Ignore at will. Your hull looks great.

Nate


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

JaredH said:


> I have started thinking about power, systems/accessories, and deck layout while planning the future steps of the build.
> 
> I am leaning towards a mercury 20hp tiller with elec start and trim for the engine. At 115lbs (probably with manual everything) it is significantly lighter than the 25hp. Anyone have any experience with this power on an FS18? Expected speed?
> 
> ...


Nice job on the glass work. I have the Merc 20 hp long shaft with tilt and electric start on my FS18 Low sheer version. This motor is not 115 lbs., that weight is the lightest motor in the 20hp class, meaning, short shaft, manual start, no power trim. The motor you're talking about weighs 145 lbs, it's posted on the motor. Top speed with the stock prop is 26 mph. less with 2 guys, so figure cruising around 21 at 3/4 throttle. I see no reason to put trim tabs on this boat. A total waste of money that will add nothing but weight and more stuff to go wrong. I also had a discussion with Jacques in Homosassa about jack plates and decided on his recommendation that it's not worth the extra weight to gain and inch or 2 shallower running depth. I've run the crap out of my boat for over 7 months without a skeg, trim tabs, or jack plate, and wouldn't think of adding any of them.....I bought a custom built 5 gallon tank from Speedy Tanks that was just over $500.00, but in my FS14 I got a stock 5 gallon tank from www.boydswelding, in Ocala Florida for $99.00. The Boyd tank is not epoxy coated, but if you're worried you can do that easily. I see no need to go larger than 5 gallons, which will give you a 50-60 mile range. If you think you'll ever travel further than that, carry a small jug along. Better than having gas sit in the tank for a long time if most of your fishing runs are short. If you buy the Boyd tank, and install it where you can have the filler go straight down into the tank, there's no need for a fuel guage, just use the dip stick method which is simple and fool proof. Mike
View attachment 4521


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## mtoddsolomon (Mar 25, 2015)

It's looking great dude. I like the idea of the side grab bar to mount all of you switches and everything, I'd make sure you went ahead and glassed in some extra meat there to mount the base of it. Looking forward to seeing how it turns out.


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

Love responses that add simplicity and reduce cost. Think I will plan on merc 20hp (my understanding is that throttle and shifting are on the grip which I like), no jack plate, no tabs, and no fuel guage. Hell if I made it through college driving an old BMW 2002 where I had to pull the sender and use a dip stick I think I can handle it on the skiff.

Have looked at the suzuki 20hp as well, but my understanding is that the mercury is the only one with reverse being a twist in one direction and forward being a twist in the other. I plan on using an extension so really like this feature.

Thanks for the replies!


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## LowHydrogen (Dec 31, 2015)

JaredH said:


> I don't know how you southern guys do it.


The answer to this, is always..... Bourbon.

This boat is going to be really nice. At this rate you're going to be done way before it warms up, up there.


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

On another positive note, my father got me a bosch router for christmas so hopefully I can learn how to build some flush hatches. Fiancee got me a 9wt Sage One and Tibor Signature 9-10, not too useful now but hopefully will be on this thing come spring time!


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

JaredH said:


> my understanding is that the mercury is the only one with reverse being a twist in one direction and forward being a twist in the other. I plan on using an extension so really like this feature.


I have not heard of this before and am skeptical because gear changes happen in the lower unit. I'd look into it first before spending any money


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

seapro17sv said:


> Nice job on the glass work. I have the Merc 20 hp long shaft with tilt and electric start on my FS18 Low sheer version. This motor is not 115 lbs., that weight is the lightest motor in the 20hp class, meaning, short shaft, manual start, no power trim. The motor you're talking about weighs 145 lbs, it's posted on the motor. Top speed with the stock prop is 26 mph. less with 2 guys, so figure cruising around 21 at 3/4 throttle. I see no reason to put trim tabs on this boat. A total waste of money that will add nothing but weight and more stuff to go wrong. I also had a discussion with Jacques in Homosassa about jack plates and decided on his recommendation that it's not worth the extra weight to gain and inch or 2 shallower running depth. I've run the crap out of my boat for over 7 months without a skeg, trim tabs, or jack plate, and wouldn't think of adding any of them.....I bought a custom built 5 gallon tank from Speedy Tanks that was just over $500.00, but in my FS14 I got a stock 5 gallon tank from www.boydswelding, in Ocala Florida for $99.00. The Boyd tank is not epoxy coated, but if you're worried you can do that easily. I see no need to go larger than 5 gallons, which will give you a 50-60 mile range. If you think you'll ever travel further than that, carry a small jug along. Better than having gas sit in the tank for a long time if most of your fishing runs are short. If you buy the Boyd tank, and install it where you can have the filler go straight down into the tank, there's no need for a fuel guage, just use the dip stick method which is simple and fool proof. Mike
> View attachment 4521


BTW, the hatches on your boats are a work of art, I have been reading and rereading your previous posts for when I get to that stage in the game.


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

yobata said:


> I have not heard of this before and am skeptical because gear changes happen in the lower unit. I'd look into it first before spending any money


Merc has had the tiller shift feature for ages. It is the one feature that distinguishes them from Tohatsus and Nissans. Every review of a tiller Merc basically says that the tiller shift feature is the best thing since toilet paper. While I share your concerns about the resultant complexity of the linkage, I haven't read any long term reviews that say the linkage is particularly prone to problems. Being able to bump a tiller into reverse without contortions would be awesome.

Nate


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## Flatsaholic (Apr 28, 2016)

Jared,

I have been on a FS18 several times. A good friend of mine built one and is working on his second one. He has a 25hp Yamaha on his and two people and gear cruising around 23-25mph. He has a jack plate and trims tabs. You most defiantly want trim tabs. Trim tabs also make the boat safer to operate. The weight of them will not make a difference. If you plan on running shallow in the skiff I would recommend a jack plate.

The FS18 is a fine skiff. Surprising very stable for a narrow skiff. Handles chop well and poles great.


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

Jared, nice build. My step son's name is Jared as well and we do some projects together.

A couple of replies to some comments....

"I'd rather sweat than freeze any day!" 

It's a good idea to wet out the wood to allow it to block up the pours of the wood. You can roll out a coat and allow it to absorb and kick. Then just after the kick, apply a 2nd coat, lay the cloth down, apply more epoxy resin on top of the cloth, either by rolling it on or pour and spread with your putty spreader. Use a clean aluminum fiberglass roller (like what Firecat said) to work the resin completely into the cloth and removing any air bubbles. Then use the putty spreader or squeegee to squeegee the excess resin off the cloth. The end results will eliminate the wood sucking out the resin from the cloth and actually make a better bond to the wood and therefore eliminate long term delamination. This process will also reduce the excessive use of resin, thereby reducing weight and reducing cracking due to puddled up resin.

Mercs?? I'd consider buying the 20 Zuke or anything other than a Merc, like a Honda or Yamaha. You'll either thank me later or remember what I recommended!

Ted


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

JaredH said:


> On another positive note, my father got me a bosch router for christmas so hopefully I can learn how to build some flush hatches. Fiancee got me a 9wt Sage One and Tibor Signature 9-10, not too useful now but hopefully will be on this thing come spring time!


Now that's how you do Christmas!


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

Some progress this morning before heading into the office for a bit and running some real life errands.

Laid a fillet around the skeg and taped it working wet on wet. Rolled the extra epoxy out onto the hull.










My fears about the chine dam were well founded. It didn't hold in a couple spots.










Nothing some time with the RO sander can't fix. I added some more gorilla tape and poured another round of epoxy thickened with wood flour.



















Hopefully things will set up by this evening. Turned the garage heat up so hopefully I can make some more progress tonight.


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

Halogen work lights are good sources of radiant heat when you are trying to get epoxy to kick. They will heat the surface even when the ambient garage temp is hard to increase.

Nate


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

yobata said:


> I have not heard of this before and am skeptical because gear changes happen in the lower unit. I'd look into it first before spending any money


Yea I have not heard of it and it sounded ify


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## CurtisWright (May 9, 2012)

Wouldn't it be easier to just make some chines out of wood and attach them like you did the keel? All that unreinforced epoxy is going to crack and fall off as soon as you hit something. An angle grinder and some 36 grit will make quick work of removing them.


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

Back at it again tonight to survey the damage from my leaky chine dams. Here is what I started with:




























I found it was easiest to knock down the mess with a sureform, I used 2 different sizes depending on the situation. Then I hit everything with the DA sander with 80 grit discs. Here is the end result:




























I had one area where nearly all of the epoxy mixture seeped through, I dammed it up again and did another pour. I also filled some small voids and rough areas of the hull with the excess thickened epoxy.
































































That was it for today. Going to sand the spots I had to repair in the morning and apply the first layer of quickfair. My goal is to sand in the afternoon, reapply, then sand again sunday. I would like to get the hull flipped sometime next week, but we will see.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Are you going to paint the hull before flipping? And what brand of paint did you pick out?


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## CodyW (Jan 26, 2016)

What's the reason you put chines on this boat? I have a hard time seeing how a chine that small will have a benefit.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

CodyW said:


> What's the reason you put chines on this boat? I have a hard time seeing how a chine that small will have a benefit.


The sharpened chines allow water to move away from the hull cleaner and more efficiently when at speed. It's been used by racing boats for many years, and It's not for knocking down spray like a reverse chine. You don't see it on production boats because you can't get that sharp a corner when popping out of a mold, and doing it by hand is timely.


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

Chine repair went well. Things cleaned up nicely. Today I finished cleaning up the chines, trimmed the excess fiberglass from the hull sides, laid down a layer of quickfair, sanded everything, and laid down another layer of quickfair. Fairing is definitely not the highlight of this process. This is my first time using a long board and my arms and shoulders are killing me. I am going to be happy with a relatively smooth exterior... what is known in the auto world as a 20/20 paintjob... one that looks great from 20 feet at 20mph. I plan on fishing the boat hard and can't see devoting a ton of time to fairing the hull sides to a mirror finish. My plan is to sand the layer of quickfair that is currently curing and roll on primer tomorrow night. That should highlight any areas that need serious attention. Here are some pictures of the progress, nothing too exciting but figured I would document it.


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

yobata said:


> Are you going to paint the hull before flipping? And what brand of paint did you pick out?


I am going to prime but not paint before flipping. Going to use Pettit EZpoxy in Platinum for the hull sides, and epoxy mixed with graphite powder for the bottom.


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

CurtisWright said:


> Wouldn't it be easier to just make some chines out of wood and attach them like you did the keel? All that unreinforced epoxy is going to crack and fall off as soon as you hit something. An angle grinder and some 36 grit will make quick work of removing them.


The only issue with this would be that they would still need to be rounded to allow the cloth to make the turn without any air bubbles, the same process would be necessary in order to sharpen the chine. The thickened epoxy was only used to sharpen the existing chine that had been rounded to 1/2" radius for glassing.


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

firecat1981 said:


> The sharpened chines allow water to move away from the hull cleaner and more efficiently when at speed. It's been used by racing boats for many years, and It's not for knocking down spray like a reverse chine. You don't see it on production boats because you can't get that sharp a corner when popping out of a mold, and doing it by hand is timely.


Right on the money!


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

JaredH said:


> I am going to be happy with a relatively smooth exterior... what is known in the auto world as a 20/20 paintjob... one that looks great from 20 feet at 20mph.


Just once, I took the bottom of mine down to wet sanding with 300 grit to see what it was like. It wasn't worth the effort. I find an orange peel textured coat of flat paint hides all but the most unfair areas.

Nate


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

After a couple weeks down in Florida (I even got 6 days on the water!) with the Fiancee I got back to work yesterday. Sanded down the last layer of fairing compound with the long board, then laid down the first coat of primer. Going to sand with 150 grit, then apply another. I think the gallon of primer I purchased should allow for 3 coats. Here are some photos of the progress.

Using Pettit EZ-Prime, will used graphite/epoxy on the bottom, and Pettit EZ-Poxy in Platinum for the sides.




























I don't think its going to be a perfectly fair mirror finish but should be good enough for me.


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

I've been cussing Firecat for suggesting that I start another build, but living vicariously is becoming tougher. I've always liked this hull and I really like watching yours come together. Thank goodness I'm broke and stretched too thin.

Nate


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## tomahawk (Mar 9, 2012)

Nice work! Its too late now but you could have saved the primer where you will be using epoxy graphite, no need to prime.


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

tomahawk said:


> Nice work! Its too late now but you could have saved the primer where you will be using epoxy graphite, no need to prime.


Hadn't thought of that, will definitely only be priming the hull sides in subsequent coats.


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

Sanded the first round of primer with 180 grit on the long board and got my rubrail strips ripped last night on the tablesaw with some help from my fiancee Kayla. I love a bit of bright work on a boat, and hope that a nice bright mahogany rub rail might draw the eye away from my less than perfect finish on the hull sides. I plan on using the leftover strips to finish off the inside edges of the deck where it drops down to the cockpit.

To cut the thin strips I set the tablesaw up to rip to the left of the blade. This required resetting the fence every cut but functioned smoothly without any kickback.














































I cut the strips about 3/8" - 7/16" thick. The plans call for 3 layers of 1/4" plywood, can I get away with 2 layers of mahogany at my strip thickness??










Hoping to make some more progress tonight with another layer of primer on the hullsides. Friday the goal is epoxy/graphite on the bottom, and first layer of rubrail glued.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

Are you going to sand off the primer to attach the rubrail? If not it will become a point of failure and might come loose later.


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

firecat1981 said:


> Are you going to sand off the primer to attach the rubrail? If not it will become a point of failure and might come loose later.


I was not planning on it but that makes sense. Will do!

Thank you for pointing that out.


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## Rollbar (Oct 20, 2016)

Question, can this stuff be used instead of the epoxy bottom, or do you have to use epoxy for ?

https://bottomcoatings.com


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

Slick bottom, gator glide, frog spit..... is similar to the epoxy graphite coatings. However they are more costly, and may not bind well to an epoxy hull since they are usually made with a poly base. 
If the black color of graphite turns you off you can use HBN (white graphite) and tint it, but the powder costs about 5 times as much.


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## Dutch (Jan 26, 2017)

Looking good Jared. I didn't realize you were on this forum too. She's looking good and you are going to pass me soon. I've been too busy working to build. 

I have a question for everyone. 

Just how strong is the graphite epoxy coating on the bottom of a skiff? I looked at the super slick stuff above but it is expensive compared to 10 bucks of graphite needed for several coats. I kept some of the mix (graphite/epoxy) and let it cure when I painted mine. I didn't really know what to expect but it isn't super strong. Either way, the bottom's covered. And, worst case, I can just paint some more on there if I get a bad scratch.


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

I like it, but to hear some guys tell it, you can drag it across gravel parking lots without damage. Those reports are highly exaggerated.

Granite boulders will gouge it and sand will gradually wear it down on chine edges. It helps dramatically with oyster and sand rash on the bottom and the chines would look much, much worse without it. Barnacle covered stumps don't faze it. Try not to hit boulders.

Nate


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## Dutch (Jan 26, 2017)

That's good to know. I'll hit an oyster bar or large limestone boulder eventually. It's just a matter of time and I needed the peace of mind. I may go ahead and put a third coat on there just to make sure it's good enough. 

Sorry for the hijack Jared..


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Dutch, my understanding is that the graphite epoxy mixture isn't necessarily extra strong, but that the graphite helps with sliding OVER obstructions. 

Locksmiths and carpenters use graphite powder in door locks to help keys slide in easier and hinges slide smoothly...


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## Rollbar (Oct 20, 2016)

yobata said:


> Dutch, my understanding is that the graphite epoxy mixture isn't necessarily extra strong, but that the graphite helps with sliding OVER obstructions.
> Locksmiths and carpenters use graphite powder in door locks to help keys slide in easier and hinges slide smoothly...


But if the graphite in encapsulated in epoxy, then the epoxy is the slick part or am I missing something?
Isn't the graphite mixed in with the epoxy and ,,,,,,,,,, 
If the graphite was showing through (as it were/small points of it/ pieces of it) then wouldn't it wear out pretty fast?
Maybe it's late and I'm just not understanding right now.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Rollbar said:


> But if the graphite in encapsulated in epoxy, then the epoxy is the slick part or am I missing something?
> Isn't the graphite mixed in with the epoxy and ,,,,,,,,,,
> If the graphite was showing through (as it were/small points of it/ pieces of it) then wouldn't it wear out pretty fast?
> Maybe it's late and I'm just not understanding right now.


I could be wrong lol

This is just what I've heard from Jacque from Bateau and others

Maybe someone with more knowledge can enlighten us?


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

The epoxy graphite is to help objects that you impact slide past as opposed to digging in. The epoxy encapsulates the graphite so when damage starts the graphite is exposed causing the item to slip past. I have scraped many oyster bars, instead of gouges you would typically see in unprotected fiberglass, you just get light scratches. Remember it is meant as a sacrificial layer, you want it to take all the damage so the glass under it stays perfect. Every few years you can roll on some more to touch up areas that wear down. I'll never have another shallow water boat without it.


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## Rollbar (Oct 20, 2016)

Ok makes since-Thank you very much.


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

Having sanding more of it than most, I am comfortable saying that graphite/epoxy is harder than epoxy alone. Silica/epoxy is harder, but you'll never get a smooth surface. With the graphite, you can get a surface as smooth as polished marble, but I wouldn't advise wasting the time. Since it is sacrificial, I just roll it on, tip it to remove the bubbles, then knock down the biggest bumps with a 60 grit long board and accept a mild orange peel texture. I do polish it down to ~320 grit on the RO, which isn't nearly as bad as it sounds once you accept the orange peel texture. The result is very slick and very hard. Like FC said, you have to reapply every few years. I've never seen a boat made of any material that didn't need the bottom painted after a couple years of use, so I don't hold it against the graphite.

Some guys swear by aluminum powder/epoxy instead. Jacques on Bateau.com said graphite/epoxy is the tougher of the two and I took his word for it. I honestly think the main driver of the decision is whether you want a black hull bottom or a grey one. Both are tough coatings.

Nate


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

Dutch said:


> That's good to know. I'll hit an oyster bar or large limestone boulder eventually. It's just a matter of time and I needed the peace of mind. I may go ahead and put a third coat on there just to make sure it's good enough.
> 
> Sorry for the hijack Jared..


Don't worry about hijacking, the whole point of this thread for me is to document the build process and to answer any questions that I or any other future builders have. Great info on the graphite/epoxy coating.


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

I got the first layer of the rubrail glued on last night, and put down the first coat of graphite/epoxy.

Based on Firecat1981's advice, I started by clamping on the rubrail and marking the edge with a pencil. Then I sanded off the primer with the RO before gluing on the rail.























































Then I masked off just above the chine to apply the epoxy/graphite mix.










I eyeballed the graphite volume and sifted it before mixing with epoxy. It turned out ok, and really highlights the seams I didn't get faired completely smooth. There is no hook in the hull though and it is fairly smooth so I can live with it.



















I am going to install the second layer of the rubrail tonight and get the second coat of epoxy laid out. I have a friend coming to help me flip the boat tomorrow afternoon, so will have to crank the heat tonight to get everything cured up, but the timeline should work.

Any tips on properly supporting the hull on the jig after the flip??


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

Just make a simple cradle with scrap wood/2×4s, you can staple on some scrap carpet or towels to keep it from scratching, but it's not likely. 

Important thing is to properly support it fairly level to make setting the stringers and deck easier.


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

firecat1981 said:


> Just make a simple cradle with scrap wood/2×4s, you can staple on some scrap carpet or towels to keep it from scratching, but it's not likely.
> 
> Important thing is to properly support it fairly level to make setting the stringers and deck easier.


Would you suggest longitudinal bunks like a trailer?


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

The hull will be fairly stiff with the rubrail, but the sides may flex out about 1/4-1/2" under their weight due to the elasticity of the wood. At least support the vee of the bottom so it doesn't wobble as you work. If you want to really do it right, make the stations of a cradle while it is upside down based on the stong back station measurements plus 1/4+". This way you can take measurements of the actual hull to make your cradle match up with reality, not the paper concept. I don't think the plans call for a cradle, but it is good insurance. The more solidly the boat is supported, the easier it will be to fit bulkheads and decks in the future.

From here on, the specific dimensions listed in the plans are suggestions. The boat will find its own shape as it settles under its weight. For instance, if the plans say the sides should be 1/2" closer together across the middle station, but cranking them together makes ugly flat spots in the sides, listen to the boat, not the plans. Try to keep things level, vertical and symmetrical, but don't be a slave to the tape measure.

Nate


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

Not really, you want to support the whole hull right now and the trailer bunks will lose contact the further away from the transom you get. I think if you look at the plans you will see where the frames go, about every 36" or so. These are the points I would support across, basically mirror the jig that supports it now.


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

Ok, so more like this style as I did with the FS13?










I had hoped I could get away with something more basic because the hull is already glassed, but those shouldn't take long to make by tracing the frames and cutting oversized to account for the hull thickness.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

Yes that is fine. Or you can just use some cheap 2x4s. Rough cut then so they overlap at the corners and screw them together. Add some legs so it is level and it will do nicely.


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

Screw measuring and cutting the cradle out of wafer board. You'll make a cradle that matches the plan, not the boat, plus your cuts will add a good bit of human error

While it is upside, snap a line across the bottom perpendicular to the keel at each station. Lay a straight 2x4 across the keel at each station starting at the transom and support it level. Mark the top center of the cross members. Pull a line level or use a laser level at 3.5" above and parallel to the straight run of the keel to keep the top centers of the cross members aligned as you move forward. Once the keel starts to curve, you'll have to shim the cross members up to touch the line/laser. 

Place 1x6 scraps cushioned with some carpet scraps in contact with the hull bottom along the snapped lines and screw them into the respective cross members to fix the angle. This is the bottom of the cradle. Check the level and alignment of the cross members 2-3 times before you screw the 1x6 to the cross member. Once you have your cradle stations made, remove your hull from the strongback and screw the stations squarely to the strongback.

I wouldn't bother supporting the sides at this point. If you support the bottom well, the sides will find their position without help. 

You would basically be templating the exterior of the hull with wood. 

Nate


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

Sanded the graphite/epoxy and rubrail. Laminated layer two of the rubrail, and added a second coat of epoxy/graphite to the bottom.

Set the garage heat to 70, and assuming everything is cured I will be flipping the hull with the help of a couple friends tomorrow around 1pm. Excited about this milestone!


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## Rollbar (Oct 20, 2016)

Looks very good.


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## Dutch (Jan 26, 2017)

WhiteDog70810 said:


> From here on, the specific dimensions listed in the plans are suggestions. The boat will find its own shape as it settles under its weight. For instance, if the plans say the sides should be 1/2" closer together across the middle station, but cranking them together makes ugly flat spots in the sides, listen to the boat, not the plans. Try to keep things level, vertical and symmetrical, but don't be a slave to the tape measure.
> 
> Nate


That's good advice about listening to the boat on the post flip. I would have tried to "make it right" and regretted it later. Thank you.


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

JaredH said:


> Sanded the graphite/epoxy and rubrail. Laminated layer two of the rubrail, and added a second coat of epoxy/graphite to the bottom.
> 
> Set the garage heat to 70, and assuming everything is cured I will be flipping the hull with the help of a couple friends tomorrow around 1pm. Excited about this milestone!


You are rollin'! 

One great thing about living someplace with winters is that you can get some stuff done without distractions. I got much more boat building done in my Maryland bat cave than in my big open barn because I could heat it enough to lay epoxy all winter when I had nothing better to do. My South Carolina barn can't be heated, so I have to pick my days when the weather is just right and I am not otherwise distracted.

Nate


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

I agree with what Nate says. The hull will have a nice shape with the rub rail installed, and you don't want to force an ugly kink into the sheer line trying to get the hull to conform to the bulkheads/frames. You could easily see a 3/4" gap between the frames and hull at the sheer. You can use long bar clamps or ratchet straps to help pull in the sides, just don't force an unnatural bend that distorts the hull shape. You can fill the gaps with rips of plywood if they're very wide, or thickened epoxy if not. Either way it all gets glassed over, and having gaps filled with epoxy is what you want anyway. No hard spots, wood against wood. Your boat is looking great. Mike


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

Flipped her over today. Seems like a much larger boat when youre moving her!

No other progress tonight. Had a couple Dale's Pale Ales with the volunteer assistance.


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## ShalloWateReds (Aug 8, 2016)

JaredH said:


> So I got back to it after the holidays last night and tonight. I have the week off from work so am going for a big push through the weekend. I would like to be flipping the hull next week. I am going for an ok finish below the chine which will be painted with a graphite epoxy mix. From the chine up I plan on spending some more time to get a smooth finish. I am going to paint the hull sides from the chine up with petit epoxy paint that is platinum in color. I liked this color scheme on my FS13.
> 
> Last night I spent about 3 hours using the RO sander with 60 grit discs to clean up the fiberglass work. Even at 55 it was hot in the tyvek and face mask, I don't know how you southern guys do it.
> 
> ...


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## ShalloWateReds (Aug 8, 2016)

In post #25 with your mahogany stock, who's SUP is that on the work table?


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

ShalloWateReds said:


> In post #25 with your mahogany stock, who's SUP is that on the work table?


Building the SUP for the fiancée, not much progress recently. She bought a kit online from Chesapeake Light Craft. The thought process was that I'd fiddle with that while waiting for epoxy to cure between steps on the FS18... but that hasn't been the way things have worked out.


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

Finally got back to it today. Sanded the inside of the hull as it had been sitting since last winter. Then ran fillets and tape around the interior seams. Hoping to sand and glass the interior in the next couple nights. Progress!


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

This miraculous resurrection was brought to you by the first real cold front in the Northeast. 

Get to work so you have it for next summer!

Nate


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

It was a good summer on the big boat!


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

This thread is back from the dead with some progress the past couple weeks.

Got the inside fiberglassed, stringers glassed in, and frames glassed in.

Headed back to FL tomorrow for a week (keeping the big boat in Islamorada for the winter). So there won't be any additional progress for a week or so, but wanted to provide an update.


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

More photos


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Should be really strong and no flex. Looking good !


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

Glad to see you back at it. Was the fishing too good for building a boat in 2018? Builds always hit slow periods once you flip them over. I hated the interior work; too much sanding nooks and crannies. Yours looks good though. Just keep on keeping on.

Nate


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## JaredH (Apr 9, 2016)

WhiteDog70810 said:


> Glad to see you back at it. Was the fishing too good for building a boat in 2018? Builds always hit slow periods once you flip them over. I hated the interior work; too much sanding nooks and crannies. Yours looks good though. Just keep on keeping on.
> 
> Nate


The fishing in 2018 was definitely a distraction. Took the big boat from Boothbay, Maine to Bimini. Lot of bluefin blood on the deck, sailfish released, and everything in between. I love boat building but sometimes adventures take priority. Posting from the “big” boat (Albin 28) down on lower metacumbe in Islamorada! No regrets... but when I get home it’s time to keep cranking on the skiff!


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