# 14FT Fiberglass Boat - In over my head!



## Ryan Anderson (Apr 9, 2017)

What motor are you putting on it?


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## Philip (Jan 6, 2018)

Im still not sure. I was leaning towards a 20hp mercury.

The transom is 15 inches from the top to the bottom. So I think with that being said I need a short shaft motor with whatever I get. I started seeing alot of people putting a metal extension plate for the outboard. Do I need to get one of those?


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Sweet Johnsen! Mine is close to the same vintage! Welcome to the forum, and good luck with your rebuild. Feel free to ask any questions along the way, there are some knowledgeable and helpful folks here. 

P.S. I put a 25hp 2 stroke Yamaha (short shaft) on mine and she loves that motor, but the 2 stroke 25hp Mercury is also a great option!


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## Philip (Jan 6, 2018)

Most of the paint came off pretty easy with a scraper except I’m guessing that red paint was antifouling or something because it was a pain in the ass.
Come to find out the name on the boat prior to the green was “PRINCESS”. Adorable.
Also I came across a bunch of cracks in the gelcoat I’m assuming. I’m not quite sure what I should do about that. I think I’m gonna apply some more aqua strip to take off the rest of the red and some green left behind in the gunnels.


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## Philip (Jan 6, 2018)

So I need advice, how should I fill these small divots? Is it bad there are a lot. Also that crack appears to only be in the gel coat.








I came across this while I moved it back in the garage. I do not think this is a good thing.... water keeps heading out slowly from this crack. What should I do? Back to google I guess. I am going to buy some west system epoxy 105 and 106. I read online that you can make a thickened batch of epoxy and use it to fill.


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## Tonyskiff (Jan 7, 2018)

Hey mate I had same thing on my hull. Looked like someone riding on concrete. What you need to do is get a dremel tool with engraving attachment go over every hairline crack and scratch. Then get a gel coat putty and fill them in. Then just sand them down. Before you fill wipe all with solvent. Also dont mix large quantities of putty it kicks off pretty fast. Good luck post some pics.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

There are 3 "strakes" (I'll call them that but they're not sharp like other strakes) on these Johnsens. On mine (1967), the middle one (keel) can be seen from the inside of the hull, but the two on each side were not. I am assuming those two on the side were added later? Anyway, if the middle one is leaking water, there isn't really a good source for that. The only place would be if water was somewhere in between the gelcoat and the woven roving / chop mat that these hulls were made from. I agree with tony, grind it out and fill with layers of 12 or 17 oz biax fabric and grind back to smooth. Thickened epoxy is just neat epoxy thickened with cabosil, milled fiberglass fibers, wood flour, etc.

Btw at some point you're going to have to put a sander/grinder on that hull. I wouldn't waste too much more time on chemical strippers, especially if you're going to be adding fiberglass to the inside which will require you to sand down to the original fiberglass anyway... good luck! Lots of good reads on rebuilding a hull on this site.


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## Philip (Jan 6, 2018)

Started sanding with my makeshift attachment lol. More of a pain than I thought but it’s getting somewhere.


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## Philip (Jan 6, 2018)

yobata said:


> There are 3 "strakes" (I'll call them that but they're not sharp like other strakes) on these Johnsens. On mine (1967), the middle one (keel) can be seen from the inside of the hull, but the two on each side were not. I am assuming those two on the side were added later? Anyway, if the middle one is leaking water, there isn't really a good source for that. The only place would be if water was somewhere in between the gelcoat and the woven roving / chop mat that these hulls were made from. I agree with tony, grind it out and fill with layers of 12 or 17 oz biax fabric and grind back to smooth. Thickened epoxy is just neat epoxy thickened with cabosil, milled fiberglass fibers, wood flour, etc.
> 
> Btw at some point you're going to have to put a sander/grinder on that hull. I wouldn't waste too much more time on chemical strippers, especially if you're going to be adding fiberglass to the inside which will require you to sand down to the original fiberglass anyway... good luck! Lots of good reads on rebuilding a hull on this site.


I could see why the water would be in between gel coat and the fiberglass, the previous owner had the boat beaches in his backyard with rear half in water and front on the lawn. I’m gonna let it dry out for a couple of days while I’m working on the sanding. 

So your saying I need to grind out the divets and hairline cracks? Seems intimidating. I’ll look into it. Thanks for the feedback and advice.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Philip said:


> I could see why the water would be in between gel coat and the fiberglass, the previous owner had the boat beaches in his backyard with rear half in water and front on the lawn. I’m gonna let it dry out for a couple of days while I’m working on the sanding.
> 
> So your saying I need to grind out the divets and hairline cracks? Seems intimidating. I’ll look into it. Thanks for the feedback and advice.


I was referring to the section that is draining water. Most of those other cracks look like they are in the gelcoat and are not in the actual fiberglass below it, but I could be wrong. Sand a few down with your orbital sander and check it out, if they all look the same and the few you sand all the way down aren't cracks in the glass you're probly ok??


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## Philip (Jan 6, 2018)

I used the dremel and cut a hole into that strake. It was like niagra falls for 15 mins. Filled a gallon into that bucket. 


Seems like a lot of the divets have condensation building around them after I sanded them. My question is should I sand out the whole area where these little chips in the gel coat are? Or just bondo them?


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## Mike C (Feb 27, 2017)

Sounds like standing it against the house bow up, and bottom of hull facing south in full sunlight for a week is what you need. 
That should dry it out.


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

That entire strake is rotten. Grind it off and replace it. Rot doesn’t unrot if you cover it up with more glass. If you think something ugly is hiding, cut a a big window and take a look. Epoxy/FG is easy to work with, so don’t be scared to hack and slash. Remember two things. 1.) A chance to cut is a chance to cure. 2.) God hates a coward.

Nate


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## Philip (Jan 6, 2018)

I am pretty close to being done with sanding. I’m gonna get the supplies in the mail this week for filling holes and fairing compound. Hopefully fix all the holes and cracks. 

How do you know if your transom is trash? I’m only putting A 20-25 hp on it do I need top notch transom? Do I need to get a jack plate? Any particular place or way to get a new motor cheap?


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Philip said:


> View attachment 21226
> 
> I am pretty close to being done with sanding. I’m gonna get the supplies in the mail this week for filling holes and fairing compound. Hopefully fix all the holes and cracks.
> 
> How do you know if your transom is trash? I’m only putting A 20-25 hp on it do I need top notch transom? Do I need to get a jack plate? Any particular place or way to get a new motor cheap?


I checked Craigslist for 3 months before I bought a reliable 2 stroke Yamaha 2006 25hp (short shaft -15"). Just check every day while working on your skiff and you will find something worth while. The transom height should be standard (although motor height standards are not necessarily standardized so much anymore). The most common heights are either 15" or 20", with 20" having the most options in the new variety....


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## Tonyskiff (Jan 7, 2018)

Do you know if you have wood transom? My transom felt rock solid but when I opened it up it was full of rutted wet plywood. I would try to do few drill holes just to see the content see if it’s wet. You can always patch it up with epoxy potty with fiberglass. Also do the sound test see if it deffers from one place to another. As for the jack plate check out “Vance manufacturing” they have bunch of different inexpensive options. I got a 4” set back plate very good quality. 

Post more pics.


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## Cut Runner (Jan 25, 2017)

The last picture on post 12 shows osmotic blistering from where the previous owner left the boat sit halfway in the water on the bank. At the very least your going to have to sand all the gelcoat off in that area then fill. If you just try and fill the cracks they will show thru the paint.


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## predacious (Sep 1, 2016)

bondo ??

first thing would've been to check the transom core - it's a simple process.

small ball peen hammer,tap the transom on the outside - pay attention to areas where there's openings - like that drain tube.good sound is a sharp distinct sound - bad sound is a dull thud.dull thud means delamination,which means you're recoring a transom ...

take care of that situation before going any further.


those blisters - that's because gel coat and other polyester based products are porous - read that as not waterproof."bondo" - one of the main ingredients of that waste of money is "talc" - talc absorbs water...not good huh ?? water passes through that gel coat and It's trapped - causing damage to the glass - forming a blister,or,the gel pops in small spots leaving raw glass.the area around a blister needs to be opened,dried,and repaired as needed - filling with an epoxy is the best method.

if you've water running out of that strake - it needs to be dried completely,before attempting to repair anything...

chemical stripping is never a good idea - recall that whole "porous" thing ?

then you're left with dealing with the chemicals along with heavy metals...not a good thing


what are you planning on replacing the deck with - core material ? what's your "finish" going to be ? gel coat ? paint ? be aware of the fact single part paints,contrary to popular belief,never fully harden - even if using "hardener".a 2 part paint will fully harden - however,it's much more involved,and costly...

if you're planning on using wood coring,that means epoxy - epoxy and gel coat won't play well together,without a separation coat of a vinylester product.polyester products won't provide the bond,when used with wood,as the epoxy will.composites are always the best choice,but certain steps are required for proper use - lots of people are unaware of those steps.cost - composites,with the exception of nidacor,will cost more than wood.and last,there's a big difference in wood - pressure treated "cdx" ply is about the worst thing you could ever use - NOTHING will adhere to it.it may appear to adhere,however looks are deceiving...

depends on what you're wanting,as far as a finished product - you want a sharp,sweetly "done up" rig,or a "utilitarian" finish ?


lots of options....


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## Philip (Jan 6, 2018)

Spent a good amount of time fairing, sanding, not being happy, repeating, having to many beers and giving up. But finally got all the osmotic blisters out of the gel coat and down to bare fiberglass and laid an extra layer of mat.






















Finished 2 coats of TotalBoat epoxy barrier coat on. And I must say that I am becoming more enthusiastic about this project I've been breaking my back over. Heading up to west virginia for the weekend to snowboard so I wont be finishing the top coat this weekend. I think I am going to sand the whole boat down one more time, add another coat of epoxy barrier, then add the 1 part polyurethane grey topside paint. Then finally flip it and mess with the inside. Ordered a 20 HP Tohatsu.... Power tilt and electric start. Can't wait to put her in the water for a little bit before rip out the benches and I start working on the inside bulk heads and decking.


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## John K (Dec 19, 2016)

I’m in the middle of rebuilding pretty much the same boat right now. I also dove in with no experience. It isn’t difficult work, just time consuming. You’ll get the hang of it.


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## taco29403 (Jun 16, 2015)

Something I learned after completing my project boat. Chop strand Mat works much better with Polyester Resin. I used Epoxy which worked fine but didn't realize there is a material that dissolves with the polyester for a better bond.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

taco29403 said:


> Something I learned after completing my project boat. Chop strand Mat works much better with Polyester Resin. I used Epoxy which worked fine but didn't realize there is a material that dissolves with the polyester for a better bond.


Styrene is in the CSM and the polyester resin desolves it, epoxy does not.


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## Tonyskiff (Jan 7, 2018)

Coming along nice. Any new photos?


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## Philip (Jan 6, 2018)

Got the motor in. Good deal from shorts marine(off eBay). Power tilt and electric start. I will probably put the motor on it break it in before I start working on the inside of the boat.






















Lots of sanding.... and I probably didn’t need to sand as much as I did but I finally put the first coat of top coat on. Been moving slowly due to busy season at work.


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## Backcountry 16 (Mar 15, 2016)

Looking good can't wait to see water pics.


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## Tonyskiff (Jan 7, 2018)

Awesome!!


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## Philip (Jan 6, 2018)

Got it as water ready as I could for the weekend I had off and went out Friday Saturday and Sunday. Floor flexes a lot, but from what I read it is normal on these skiffs. Also ended up with fiberglass in my arms and Gaby’s arms from rubbing on the side rail. 















Back to the drawing board, got some grinding done to the hull for tabbing in the stringers and bulk heads. I am hoping that it limits the flex because I doubt this boat will handle chop for long periods of time.
And a question for anyone willing to answer, I have some epoxy and just bought some poly resin, is it ok that I use the epoxy to bead on the stringers and bulk heads before I lay them into place. Then what should I use for fillets. The guy said I shouldn’t let the epoxy and poly resin touch each other, delamination will occur. 
I plan on putting a bulk head in the rear with a deck, I like the style yobata did(wish I could see his images on his thread for reference). Then I am doing another bulk head in the front 15 inches from that bench with a deck about 6 or so inches from the top(the dogs love hanging out up there, it’ll keep them from sliding off). Then of course I’m doing mini bulk heads tied in with the stringers for the main false floor. 
Hopefully the gas tank will Work in that front bench seat(6gal), will pressure hold?
I also think I will need a new rubrail the one I took off is in rough shape.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Philip said:


> View attachment 24006
> 
> Got it as water ready as I could for the weekend I had off and went out Friday Saturday and Sunday. Floor flexes a lot, but from what I read it is normal on these skiffs. Also ended up with fiberglass in my arms and Gaby’s arms from rubbing on the side rail.
> View attachment 24007
> ...


What material are you going to use for the bulkheads, stringers, decks, etc.? 

I prefer epoxy to other resins, but I have heard mixed messages about using both in the same project. For instance, here is a video of a test of epoxy and gelcoat (gelcoat is made using polyester resin): 




Sorry about the missing pictures, photobucket sucks! Here are a few showing the floor flex solution for me:

An extra layer of 12oz biax on the floor to start with









1"x2" stringers and 3/8" ribs

















A few cleats where the bulkheads will meet new floor









2 part 2lbs polyurethane foatation foam (cut off even)

















Dry fit new Sole









Glass in new floor (I also thru-bolted the grab bar before glassing in sole)


























For the fillets, thicken up some epoxy and lay it down into the corners, then you can you your finger or a washer to something to round them before tabbing in everything (if you work while the fillets are still curing, the tabbing won't have any air bubbles).


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## Jim Lenfest (Jul 20, 2016)

Philip said:


> View attachment 21003
> 
> It is looking good here. If you are repainting, I would suggest filling scratches and minor imperfections, sand all with a fine grit to help the paint adhere and then paint. If you are going to gel coat, I would suggest sanding until almost all paint is removed, then gel coat. You may have it all done by now, but going to throw this idea out for others reading this later. I usually put on a quick coat of gel coat and then squeegee with a light firm pressure. the idea is to build up a thick layer of gel coat that you can sand smooth later. Use a squeegee that you would clean windows with. It will come out quite smooth with lines or ridges. Wet Sand the ridges off carefully with a very fine grit, and do it again. Apply Several times, maybe 3 minimum. Then when you think you have enough gel coat built up, wet sand until you reach the desired smoothness. The squeegee will fill many scratches and original gel coat cracks that were to minor to fill with a fairing compound, but that would have shown through had you painted. If you accidentally sand through the new gel coat, then apply a couple or three more layers. Sometimes just in that area, sometimes over the whole boat. It is up to you. Also, the squeegee is very wasteful on gel coat, so be sure to protect surfaces below and around the boat before trying to apply. Hope this is useful to someone. jim
> 
> ...


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## Jim Lenfest (Jul 20, 2016)

Philip said:


> View attachment 23435
> View attachment 23436
> 
> Got the motor in. Good deal from shorts marine(off eBay). Power tilt and electric start. I will probably put the motor on it break it in before I start working on the inside of the boat.
> ...


That is an awesome finish! Looks like it came out of a mold. As Morgan Freeman said in "Shawshank Redemption", "All you need is time and pressure."


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## Jim Lenfest (Jul 20, 2016)

Too late on this suggestion as well, but will throw it out there for others and future projects. For stringers, I will always try to use materials that will not rot. Vinyl rain gutter is a favorite choice. Will never rot. While it adds no significant strength, it has a great square shape with radius corners to mold glass over and it cuts very easily. I will lay those stringers in quickly, and when they are all in, I will cut or tear strips of glass, probably 5-7 layers alternating and starting with mat/ structural/mat/structural/ mat/ etc. (lay all layers in in one shot, staggering the ends for an overlap) (to save time, one can lay these up 3-7 layers at a time on a flat scrap of plywood, then lift it off like a wet rug, place it over the stringer and air roll it onto the hull working from the top out over each side and then across the hull at the bottom. Also, reduce you hardener some, as several layers harden much more quickly than a single layer) Cut the strips wide enough to extend about 2-3 inches over the hull on each side, and up and over and down the gutter. So if you are using 2x2 gutter, you would need 6" to go up and around the gutter plus another 4-6" for the part that folds onto the hull on each side. I would probably do the stringers lengthwise first, and then add in short pieces cross-ways after the others cured. When finished you will have a beam that is never rot, solid glass about 1/4" to 3/8" thick that is U-shaped, flat on top and solid enough to screw your floor to. note: make sure you hull is level and no twisting, no hogs and in the shape you want, because once these are in, that is the way the boat will be shaped. Then add flotation if desired, then the floor. While I have always used plywood for my floor core, like everyone else...., from now on, I intend to lay up glass sheets for a solid glass floor. I started doing this for transoms 20 years ago and have yet to replace one. I am tired of things rotting out within my hulls. jim


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## Philip (Jan 6, 2018)

yobata said:


> What material are you going to use for the bulkheads, stringers, decks, etc.?
> 
> I prefer epoxy to other resins, but I have heard mixed messages about using both in the same project. For instance, here is a video of a test of epoxy and gelcoat (gelcoat is made using polyester resin):
> 
> ...


What did you use to fill the center with? Where the drain pipe is rest on?


Ok yeah. I am using 3/4 marine ply. I have a gallon of epoxy and 5 gallons of resin, should I just use the epoxy until I run out(which I assume will be fast.)

I purchased a sheet of biaxle. Will lay that before I do my stringers and ribs. Thanks for suggestion yobata.

Jim, that’s an interesting way to do it. As it sounds it would be a good Rot free to do it, I’ve got my mind set to use the marine ply. 

Any good suggestions on the best way to trace out shapes of the hull for bulkheads? I spent a good bit using paper then tracing to cardboard. Got one ready for ply tracing.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Philip said:


> What did you use to fill the center with? Where the drain pipe is rest on?
> 
> 
> Ok yeah. I am using 3/4 marine ply. I have a gallon of epoxy and 5 gallons of resin, should I just use the epoxy until I run out(which I assume will be fast.)
> ...


That center channel, I filled with 2 part 2lbs polyurethane floatation foam, then glassed it in with a layer of 6" biax "tape", then I layed the biax over the entire floor...

Templates for cutting bulkheads do take a lot of time, but the more careful and precise you are, the easier it will be to properly fit the bulkheads in...


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## Philip (Jan 6, 2018)

yobata said:


> That center channel, I filled with 2 part 2lbs polyurethane floatation foam, then glassed it in with a layer of 6" biax "tape", then I layed the biax over the entire floor...
> 
> Templates for cutting bulkheads do take a lot of time, but the more careful and precise you are, the easier it will be to properly fit the bulkheads in...


Thanks dude! I will get some foam. (Fuck this is getting to be more expensive than intended! Fuck it!) has yours got any water under the deck that you know of?! I know when I was under power this past weekend hitting others wake, I took a lot of spray.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Philip said:


> Thanks dude! I will get some foam. (Fuck this is getting to be more expensive than intended! Fuck it!) has yours got any water under the deck that you know of?! I know when I was under power this past weekend hitting others wake, I took a lot of spray.


No water under the cockpit deck. I used epoxy all the way through the build; epoxy is impervious to water (unlike polyester resin).

I also build an overhang on my front deck/gunnels that it anywhere from ~3" in the front tapering back to about 1.5" in the back. The overhang of the deck as well as the rub rail then act like "spray rails" which helps from being very wet. Now don't get me wrong, in windy and choppy conditions, you will almost always get wet in these little skiffs...


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## Philip (Jan 6, 2018)

Not perfect by any means but I dry fit the front of he deck in place to see how everything fit. Stringers and ribs were glasses in. Time to run fuel line and power lines beneath the deck.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Just remember to run your fuel/power lines in a chase tube (pvc works fine for this) if you are putting in the floatation foam. That liquid foam is very sticky and you will not be able to get the fuel/power lines out if you need to service or replace them...


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## Jim Lenfest (Jul 20, 2016)

yobata said:


> Just remember to run your fuel/power lines in a chase tube (pvc works fine for this) if you are putting in the floatation foam. That liquid foam is very sticky and you will not be able to get the fuel/power lines out if you need to service or replace them...


And don't skimp, the bigger conduit the better as long as it fits. That way, hose end fittings and etc will pass through easily without removing them. Also especially on larger boats, you may want to add down the road more wires, hydraulic steering, second bilge pump, live well hoses, you name it. If you have room and can run a 4" conduit like 3-4" pvc Sewer pipe, you won't regret it later. Let it pass through both both bulkheads or sharp risers with a little to spare, and then after glassing, if you don't want to pay a lot for the pvc thru hulls, seal with some 3M 5200 sealant. It will adhere to the glass as well as the PVC. Also, don't forget to radius the sharp edges. And don't spill any 5200 where you don't want it because it cleans up hard especially when it sets.


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## Philip (Jan 6, 2018)

Not perfect.... still gotta work on rear deck. Back and forth on what I should do. Plus I fucked up a perfectly good sheet of marine ply. Pissed me off to stop for a little while.


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## Philip (Jan 6, 2018)

Oh sample rub rail I’m gonna use


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Philip said:


> View attachment 25297
> 
> Oh sample rub rail I’m gonna use


How are you going to keep that rub rail from slipping off? If you put screws into it, any other boat/dock will get the screw head to rub against it. Keep that in mind when joining up other boats at the sandbar


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## Jim Lenfest (Jul 20, 2016)

While I am not sure of this choice, usually the rub rail is thick enough to countersink the heads of the screws or bolts. I would use either a flat head or oval head screw or bolt. https://shop.hamiltonmarine.com/products/pvc-rub-rail-flexible-44379.html I have used a lot of this in the past and plenty thick to countersink the heads of screws or bolts. It says flexible, but anything less than a 12" -16" radius bend, I would suggest using a heat gun to warm it up first. I have done a 1" radius around the transom corners with a heat gun. If anyone would like to see pictures, ask and if the snow is not too deep, I will try to get to the boat for pictures.


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## Philip (Jan 6, 2018)

Rub rail was a pain in the ass to put on, but I think now that’s it’s on it isn’t coming off. So if that’s the case I am probably not gonna secure it with screws.


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## jhreels (Apr 20, 2017)

Just read through this build, very nice project man. Look forward to seeing it complete.


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## 'Nano-Skiff' (Aug 27, 2012)

Looking good. I had one of those for a bit but gave it away before spending money on it.


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## Kevin Booker (May 25, 2016)

Did raising the floor that high make it rock anymore at speed? how much foam did you need to use? I have been wanting to do all of this but I don't really have the best work area and have little kids so I don't want fiberglass everywhere again. Ugh. Your project looks awesome. Thought about paying but that can get too expensive.


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## Philip (Jan 6, 2018)

Kevin Booker said:


> Did raising the floor that high make it rock anymore at speed? how much foam did you need to use? I have been wanting to do all of this but I don't really have the best work area and have little kids so I don't want fiberglass everywhere again. Ugh. Your project looks awesome. Thought about paying but that can get too expensive.


It was rocking just as bad before as it is now. Under power it will shift a little but it isn’t that bad, still does 25mph after all the wood was placed. I’ve been lazy and haven’t got much done lately. I dry fit the rear deck but I think I’m going to make a few changes. I have two batches for each side, battery going on the right side.


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## SeaDrifter (Apr 4, 2018)

Looking good!


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## Philip (Jan 6, 2018)

I was able to get a little more done yesterday. Glassed in rear deck, added strength to transom, epoxied some pipe fittings thru each hatch wall. ( fuel line, electric ) Changed my mind on my previous drain size which was 3/4 inch pipe. Used 1 inch instead and ran a direct line to the rear bilge. I am not finished, I am going to add some more layers of epoxy barrier, with some sanding. Overall, I feel like I am nearing completion, would like to make a small console section in the grab bar for cup holder/switch board, possibly move trim/tilt and ignition button to the console. And extend the tiller arm. I want platform over the engine but having trouble locating where to buy one??


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

That thing is looking sweet. Keep us posted


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## Philip (Jan 6, 2018)

Got lazy and set her loose today, oh by the way that is a vacuum hose attachment tiller extension! Lol


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## Philip (Jan 6, 2018)

You don’t realize the joys of glass until you slide over it


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## Tonyskiff (Jan 7, 2018)

Philip said:


> You don’t realize the joys of glass until you slide over it
> View attachment 27482


Quality time


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

Cool Skiff man!


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## dranrab (Oct 9, 2016)

The weenie dog made me smile!


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## Philip (Jan 6, 2018)

Got a little bit of cosmetic stuff done. Finished little console and cup holders, need to secure it to bar still. Got to get hardware. Picked up a good Bluetooth speaker rather than running stereo. They seem to be built very well now considering my small old one lasted 4 years.


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## Jim Lenfest (Jul 20, 2016)

dranrab said:


> The weenie dog made me smile!


Dogs love boats.


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## MRichardson (May 27, 2010)

Sweet console, very nice.


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## Philip (Jan 6, 2018)

So I was attempting to run the electric start, kill switch, and power trim switch up to the console box. Everything went smooth except the electric start. I plugged one of the wires back in and as I went to plug the other in it kept wanting to turn over as soon as contact was made. I am not sure if I broke the switch or if the wires are completing a circuit in the sheething of wire that I ran. Im not sure if anyone has run across this problem before or have any ideas of what I should do.


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## Guest (May 14, 2018)

It’s likely one of the two things you mention. Just unplug the switch, if it still trys to turn over then it’s most likely wiring. I’m leaning towards the switch from what your post says though.


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## Jim Lenfest (Jul 20, 2016)

Are the wires at he engine connected to the right places? Possibly the run wire and start wire are interchanged? or some other similar simple mistake.


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## Philip (Jan 6, 2018)

Jim Lenfest said:


> Are the wires at he engine connected to the right places? Possibly the run wire and start wire are interchanged? or some other similar simple mistake.


I got the wires mixed up haha. I’ve got it working now. Partially blaming the fact that I switched to night shift and my lack of sleep.


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## Jim Lenfest (Jul 20, 2016)

Philip said:


> I got the wires mixed up haha. I’ve got it working now. Partially blaming the fact that I switched to night shift and my lack of sleep.


I did it once, and the motor would start and as soon as you released the key, it stopped, but the starter kept cranking and with key completely off the cranking would stop. Been a very long time ago, not exactly sure if it was even an outboard. May have been an inboard motor or even a car, but same end result.


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## Jim Lenfest (Jul 20, 2016)

Curious: Did my comment help you, or had you already figured it out?


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## Philip (Jan 6, 2018)

Jim Lenfest said:


> Curious: Did my comment help you, or had you already figured it out?


Sorry but I did, indeed have it done when I finally read the comments. But if I had not I would have after reading your comment! Thanks! I just forgot to label my wires that I ran. So I played the guessing game.


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## Jim Lenfest (Jul 20, 2016)

Philip said:


> Sorry but I did, indeed have it done when I finally read the comments. But if I had not I would have after reading your comment! Thanks! I just forgot to label my wires that I ran. So I played the guessing game.


I am glad you did, but was wondering that is all. I have used many old web posts and videos on you tube to figure things out. All of this info is very helpful to others someday. I for one, am very thankful that others take the time to post their thoughts and ideas. Also an occasional joke or story makes for entertainment as well.


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