# Lenco trim tab rewire



## Rich11111 (Jun 6, 2018)

My 2007 skiff has have trim tabs that haven't worked for years. I've decided to get them functional and have found it is best just to replace everything. The new Lenco actuators wires don't reach the side console and the old wires are green and black inside. I figure I won't use the old Lenco wires to extend the reach since they look like trouble if I do. Would it be ok to get tinned marine wire and crimp in or do I need the shielded wiring that Lenco uses to reach the side console? I have a Bobs jack plate and 60 HP Evinrude Etec wiring that run to the stern. My garmin wiring is very short on the console. No depth finder wiring used. Thx for the help.


----------



## BrownDog (Jun 22, 2019)

I would think quality tinned marine wire would work. Just make sure you seal the connections very well.


----------



## RJTaylor (Oct 4, 2017)

Plain wire is fine, the shielded wire just makes for easier fishing through the rigging tubes.


----------



## Rich11111 (Jun 6, 2018)

Risk of interfering with jack plate or Etec is my concern. Sounds like I am worried for no reason of electromagnetic interference!


----------



## jonny (May 1, 2007)

Chuck up some preferably tinned wire in your drill. Spin it nice and tight together. Twisting the wires will help prevent any capacitance/EMI issues. Plus it looks like someone knows and cares about what they are doing. I am weird like that.


----------



## Rich11111 (Jun 6, 2018)

jonny said:


> Twisting the wires will help prevent any capacitance/EMI issues.


Wow simple and effective. Thanks for posting. I plan on getting the stuff today. Thanks for posting this option. Then put in heat shrink to keep it from unraveling.


----------



## Capnredfish (Feb 1, 2012)

Shielding or the jacket? I doubt is is actual shielding as it would need to be grounded at one end. Never saw shielding on mine. It’s just a jacketed wire pair. They need the round jacket to pass into and seal properly at the actuator. You can use wire and method as mentioned above. Just start with longer wire as twisting will shorten the length you started with.


----------



## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

No need for any heat shrink - except on connections (and for that you'll wand adhesive lined marine heat shrink). Wires twisted together (an old rigger's trick) won't ever un-wind so once done they're not a concern. The only other thing I can think of is to examine all the wiring as you remove it for replacement... What you're looking for are any signs of abrasion or penetration of the outer covering which might indicate a sharp edge that the wiring was run across which will over time and running gradually wear through the wires at one point or other... If you find something like that you can add split loom wiring channel over the new wires where they're chafing might happen to prevent it from occurring over time. Short sections of split loom channel can be secured with small bundling tie wraps at each end to keep it in place as you're pulling it into position... 

Hope this helps and "aren't boats fun?"


----------



## jonny (May 1, 2007)

You don’t have to use tinned wired. But it will help prevent the corrosion and oxidation of the copper. But if use use good sealed heat shrink crimps. You can get away with regular wire. You don’t need to shrink wrap it unless you just want to. It will hold itself if done nice and tight. Just clamp one end of the wires down to something solid. And spin away. Make sure to leave plenty of excess. It will shorten a few inches during the spin up.


----------



## jonny (May 1, 2007)

Damn Bob you beat me to it😂

And Capnred😂

Too bad you can’t delete post anymore. Sorry for the redundancy. We all must have typing at the same time.

Like Capnredfish said if it’s shielded. Unless the sheild was tied into a grounded network. It was pretty much useless anyway. 
And Bob was right about checking for possible reasons for the initial failure. You may want to ohm out the actuators before going further. To make sure they are okay. Black oxidation can be a indicator of other problems. Such as a ground or over heating. Not the normal green corrosion from moisture. 
And I prefer spiral wrap over the split. It takes longer to put on. But will flex with The wire in hard bends. No zip ties needed. And no worries of the wire coming out. Like with the split stuff. Just a personal preference both will work.


----------



## Rich11111 (Jun 6, 2018)

jonny said:


> Make sure to leave plenty of excess. It will shorten a few inches during the spin up.


That is what I was thinking. I make my own furl fly fishing leaders and the furling process does shorten the end product.

Thanks for the ideas.


----------



## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Just buy tinned marine wire and do it right so there’s no question about longevity. Twisting with a drill is a great way to keep everything tidy, it just takes about twice as much wire but easier to pull, looks nice and easy to work with.


----------



## Rich11111 (Jun 6, 2018)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Just buy tinned marine wire and do it right so there’s no question about longevity. Twisting with a drill is a great way to keep everything tidy, it just takes about twice as much wire but easier to pull, looks nice and easy to work with.



Wow twice as much wire. Thanks for the heads up. Better a little longer than shorter. I was going to add perhaps 15% more. Ok 100% more.


----------



## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Rich11111 said:


> Wow twice as much wire. Thanks for the heads up. Better a little longer than shorter. I was going to add perhaps 15% more. Ok 100% more.


Maybe not quite twice as much but it all depends on how tight you twist it. You can control how much you twist it pretty easily.


----------



## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

Must second that "always tinned copper wire" comment for marine installations (your boat...). Using cheap copper wire (I know one very skilled electrician that calls cheap copper wire "hanger wire" since if you use it - you will be replacing it eventually... The worst part of cheap copper is that you'll end up with corrosion up inside the insulation where you can't see it - but it will surely degrade your circuitry... 

Now go back again and read that first sentence again if you missed it.... and make sure you use the right gage wire as well (too big is almost as bad as too small...


----------



## Capnredfish (Feb 1, 2012)

Rich11111 said:


> Wow twice as much wire. Thanks for the heads up. Better a little longer than shorter. I was going to add perhaps 15% more. Ok 100% more.


put your two pointing fingers end to end. Now slide them side by side and wrap them over each other like a twist. Down to the length of one finger? Depends how much you twist the wires. More twist equals tighter and won’t come apart. Too few and it will.


----------



## Rich11111 (Jun 6, 2018)

I got the twist idea. When I stated "Better a little longer than shorter" I was referring to buying length of wire. I can always cut off the excess or twist a little tighter.


----------



## Mako 181 (May 1, 2020)

Tinned Wire Is The Answer.

How much more does it cost.........

Might as well use zinc fasteners too if you are looking to save $$$


----------



## Rich11111 (Jun 6, 2018)

Mako 181 said:


> zinc fasteners too


I was going to used tinned all the way including fasteners. If wrong point me in the right direction


----------

