# Yamaha 90 2 Stroke and Hydraulic Steering



## hammock pete (Feb 2, 2017)

kmturner2415 said:


> The cable steering on my skiff is shot. I have decided to upgrade to the UFLEX hydraulic system. When installing, I can’t seem to get the cylinder close enough to the motor to attach to the tilt rod tube because the steering hook has this weird 45 degree drop down. Has anyone ran into it his problem with a similar motor. I have ordered another steering hook (the one listed through my Yamaha dealer looks different) but it’s coming from Japan so who knows when it will arrive. I have attached photos that show the steering hook and how far the hydraulic cylinder is sitting off the motor. I have also spoken with UFLEX customer service and they insist that I have the correct model cylinder. Thanks in advance.


Interesting... Just measured my U Flex system, and it is 3" from cylinder control rod ctr. to tilt tube center. Yours looks to be roughly 41/2. Unbolt the cylinder and rotate the control arm to another position.


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Looks like there is a black spacer between the uflex cylinder and the arm that attaches to the motor? Can that be taking out and mount the cylinder arm to the underside of the motor hook? Somehow it seems it needs to mount to the underside of the hook no matter what.


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

check this link out









Uflex hydraulic steering to 2-stroke Yamaha 90


Hi All, I just installed the Uflex GoTech hydraulic steering kit before passing my old 16 Hewes to my uncle, but I don't have enough clearance to trim the motor all the way up. I spoke with the folks at Uflex and they said to flip the motor bracket and install it to the aft hole (versus the forwa...




mbgforum.com


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## hammock pete (Feb 2, 2017)

Sublime said:


> check this link out
> 
> 
> 
> ...


control arm and spacer can be top or bottom mounted, or in different bolt hole...whatever fits best. My E tech install is bottom mounted, with bolt inverted (nut on top). Bolt hole closer to engine allows for quicker turning response.


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

hammock pete said:


> control arm and spacer can be top or bottom mounted, or in different bolt hole...whatever fits best. My E tech install is bottom mounted, with bolt inverted (nut on top). Bolt hole closer to engine allows for quicker turning response.


And your outboard "ear" has the bend like his? In his picture, it looks like it is almost rubbing with the engine straight ahead. Seems it would rub with the engine at full turn?


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## kmturner2415 (Jan 31, 2014)

Sublime said:


> check this link out
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Seems like somebody else has run into the same issue. Flipping the bracket doesn’t seem to be an option as the bolt holes will not line up. I’m sure it’s gonna take some creativity and trying all different configurations but this definitely helps.


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## NativeBone (Aug 16, 2017)

^following


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## hammock pete (Feb 2, 2017)

kmturner2415 said:


> Seems like somebody else has run into the same issue. Flipping the bracket doesn’t seem to be an option as the bolt holes will not line up. I’m sure it’s gonna take some creativity and trying all different configurations but this definitely helps.





Sublime said:


> And your outboard "ear" has the bend like his? In his picture, it looks like it is almost rubbing with the engine straight ahead. Seems it would rub with the engine at full turn?
> 
> View attachment 176395


Now I'm confused. My "ear" is different,but should make no difference.The control arm can be mounted above or below the "ear".U may need a shorter bolt,use the oem or install kit bolt whichever is shorter. Bolting up the control arm to the "ear" is the last step. Unhook it and do the remaining install first. You will be more comfortable after putting the other parts together. Good luck. And have fun with the system purge!
What "rubbing" are you referring to? There should be no interference. Lastly, the hardest part is going to removing the old cable from the tilt tube. Do that first ,


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

hammock pete said:


> What "rubbing" are you referring to? There should be no interference.


Where I circled in yellow. Pardon my rough sketch. Will it not hit where the arrow is in the bottom sketch ? I dunno, I’m a tiller guy 😂


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## hammock pete (Feb 2, 2017)

Sublime said:


> Where I circled in yellow. Pardon my rough sketch. Will it not hit where the arrow is in the bottom sketch ? I dunno, I’m a tiller guy 😂


No,engine does not rotate that far. Install your helm first,then the rest. It will all make sense once you install new tilt tube and brackets.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

probably won't apply to you but I had hydraulic on my SilverKing and when I moved the motor back 6" for the Bob's JP the ram would hit the transom when fully tilted. worked fine as long as I stopped the tilt short but one time way off Crystal River my grandson tilted it up and broke off the hose fitting. had to tie a collapsible paddle to the cowling to get back. red neck tiller. ended up with cable steering.


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## hammock pete (Feb 2, 2017)

devrep said:


> probably won't apply to you but I had hydraulic on my SilverKing and when I moved the motor back 6" for the Bob's JP the ram would hit the transom when fully tilted. worked fine as long as I stopped the tilt short but one time way off Crystal River my grandson tilted it up and broke off the hose fitting. had to tie a collapsible paddle to the cowling to get back. red neck tiller. ended up with cable steering.]


According to the photos there will be plenty of room. The 2 1/2 inches of added height with Bobs JP is added margin. My
install is on a 4" Bobs.


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## hammock pete (Feb 2, 2017)

hammock pete said:


> According to the photos there will be plenty of room. The 2 1/2 inches of added height with Bobs JP is added margin. My
> install is on a 4" Bobs.


If u are still concerned about interference where the ram control arm connects to the "ear", mount it on the BOTTOM side. It doesn't care...


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## ek02 (May 8, 2012)

The Baystar steering cylinder on my Yamaha 90 2 stroke mounts to the bottom of that arm in the rear hole. The bolt and washers screw in from the bottom with the locknut on the top of the bracket. Yours was screwed into the front hole on top. Attach the cylinder from the bottom and it should work.


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## hammock pete (Feb 2, 2017)

So...how did the install go?


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## kmturner2415 (Jan 31, 2014)

hammock pete said:


> So...how did the install go?


Ended up having to trim the bracket in order to use the rear hole, but other than that no issues. Very happy with the UFLEX system so far. Thanks for all the input


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