# Monark transom rebuild



## Puertoricoinshore (Aug 26, 2010)

Great find!!!!!!! For the 5200 first try a heat gun; that is going to soften the 5200. The fiberglass work is a lesson you need to go through trial and error until is so simple that you dont use gloves anymore. Some one said in a post here "ïf you make a mess you are not doing it right". But is more simple than you think. The thing i learn about working with fiberglass and boats is that's alwaysssssssssssss a way to fix an error. You ether sanded down put some firing compound or filler and is going to look like it was born there. Oh and clean good the area, and buala!!!. 








Like nothing happen








Go for it dude!!!!!!!


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## Batt34786 (Apr 7, 2011)

Thanks - I'm afraid that I can make it look good, but that I'll hang my brand new 25 hp, electric start, electric TNT Evinrude E-tec on the back and peel the transom off the first time I hit a 2' wave. Then watch as my $5000 outboard and labor of love sinks into the ICW.


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## Puertoricoinshore (Aug 26, 2010)

[smiley=1-mmm.gif] Not going to happen. Keeped going. pics


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

I have used two different pourable composite transom materials. Seacast and Nida-pour.

All directions are on the Seacat site and method can be used for either. Seacast may be easier to get now that Nida is owned by 3M and ordering is going to be cumbersome.

Seacast is nearly 20 years old and still perfect. Nida is 3 years and so far so good.

They are so simple to use and the fact they are 3x stronger than wood I will never use wood again - ever.


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## Batt34786 (Apr 7, 2011)

Seacast looks really good - but I'm left with some complications:

1. I already cut out the inside face of the transom. Instructions show how to build a false plywood face with fiberglass, but it makes it more complicated for a novice.

2. I need to get the jack plate off the back that is stuck on with 5200, so I can cap it after the Seacast is poured. Already advised to try hitting it with a heat gun, but I'm concerned with heating too much and blistering the gel coat.

3. The plywood transom reinforcement extended below the deck, and it appears they glassed the inside face of the transom and the deck all at once. The bottom 5" or so of the transom plywood was not encased in glass - so if I were to just pour the material from the top it would fill up the space below the deck out to wherever the first stringer or bulkhead is located. If I were to dam up the bottom of the void left when I remove the rotten plywood, leaving a 5" strip of the lower transom with no reinforcement, would that be a bad thing?


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

Remove the rotten wood, it's easy enough to do some minor fiberglass work
that will allow you to strengthen the entire transom. But that's after the rot is gone.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

> I already cut out the inside face of the transom.  Instructions show how to build a false plywood face with fiberglass, but it makes it more complicated for a novice.


I lay visqueen on the ground, stretch it tight and tape it to the garage floor.  Then I lay two layers of clothe down and wet it out.  Usinig cardboard templates I then cut the glass to size.  Cut cloth into 4" strips to hold in place.  Place and brace wood on the inside so you don't end up with a belly from the weight pushing out on the thin glass.  Pour it in until full. Remove wood and then the glass you made on the floor is now the inside skin of the transom.



> I'm concerned with heating too much and blistering the gel coat


Don't leave it in place so long that it burns.  Once you get it off put a wetted out piece of cloth over the holes to keep compound in.



> If I were to dam up the bottom of the void left when I remove the rotten plywood, leaving a 5" strip of the lower transom with no reinforcement


 If you build a dam and then fill you will not have a void. Mix up some thickened resin and put in the slot so when you stuff the piece in place it beds itself in the mix. You could even make it in two pieces. a small one for the slot so you can reach in through the hole to ensure it is sealed and then the big one and attach the two.

Wear protective clothing and after you pour clean anything you want to keep because you won't get it off and be careful as it kicks because it gets to about 190 degrees.


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## Batt34786 (Apr 7, 2011)

I got the jack plate off - judicious use of a long flat blade screwdriver and a flexible bladed steak knife. I think the "5200" was actually "kitchen & bath".

I don't understand what would get bedded in the thickened mix - the plywood just acts as a form for the inside face of the transom. You wax the plywood with form release, lay glass overhanging the edges of the form by 3", wet out to the edge of the form board leaving the 3" dry, set the form in place, then laminate the 3" overhang to the transom and deck. After you pour the mix you remove the plywood form leaving the new glass face. My concern is the slot left between the edge of the deck (which is about 5" above the hull) and the outside face of the transom. I can sketch a section tomorrow at work if it helps, but I don't see how I keep the goop from filling below the deck if I don't close off that slot.

Thanks for your help - I'm new to these legitimate repairs.


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## jms (Apr 21, 2011)

> I sold my bay boat, and had the fever to get into a cheap skiff that I could push with a 25hp tiller.  After looking around a bit, I came across this 14.5' Monark on this forum.  I went and looked at it (after a 3.5 hour drive) and fell in love with the hull.  The transom was a bit soft, but everything else seems pretty solid, so I bought it and towed it back to Orlando.
> 
> 
> 
> ...



if you're smart,you're gonna scrap the nida pour and the seacast idea and get a sheet of penske board,use either an epoxy or a vinylester based resin - epoxy is the best,but,vinylester will wok ...

use this,and it will outlast the rest of the boat...


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## Batt34786 (Apr 7, 2011)

Although I don't claim to be smart, I think I'm going with some type of sheathing instead of the poured material. Talked to a buddy that did his own using PT plywood, and it lasted for years. Just sealed up the holes.

When I got the jack plate off, it was apparent they didn't seal the original bolt holes with anything except the caulk they used to seal the jack plate. That's where the water appeared to have gotten in.

If I could have drilled out all of the plywood from the top (not sure I would have had guts enough to do it with a chainsaw like the product specs recommended - seriously), I probably would have gone with the Seacast, but since it's opened up I'll go conventional.

Again, thanks for all the help.


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## jms (Apr 21, 2011)

> Although I don't claim to be smart, I think I'm going with some type of sheathing instead of the poured material.  Talked to a buddy that did his own using PT plywood, and it lasted for years.  Just sealed up the holes.



if you're referring to the pressure treated plywood sold at home depot/lowes,you're going to run into problems using that material,and expecting to glass it - the matting may appear to have adhered,but i promise you,it didn't...it's best to use a good marine grade ply -marine ply has no voids,it's sanded both sides and it's got a different binder...wood's ok,as long as it's sealed from water intrusion,and it's used with an epoxy based resin...

there's no additional labor involved using a composite,such as penske board,this is a product that will last indefinatley,and not absorb any water,lighter than wood too...


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## Batt34786 (Apr 7, 2011)

I'm sold on Penske board - where can I get it? I've got the fever to get this boat in the water but also want to do it right.


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## jms (Apr 21, 2011)

> I'm sold on Penske board - where can I get it?  I've got the fever to get this boat in the water but also want to do it right.


any fiberglass supplier should carry it

very easy to work with product

here's a few tips:

wear a mask,saftey glasses and a tyvek suit when cutting it.it cuts easily...use it once - you will never use another product again !


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## Izzy11 (Dec 23, 2011)

Isn't marine ply and pt the same except marine ply doesn't have knots in it ? Just curious because that's what I was told some time ago. 
Also .... I agree with the penski board with a transom rebuild. That's the best for that !


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Marine and PT are two different products. PT is put in a huge pressure cooker, chemical dumped in and then they turn up the pressure so the wood soaks up the chemicals- that is why it has the green color.

Marine and exterior are similar but marine is still a far superior product.


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## jonathanglasser71 (Apr 22, 2012)

I have had trouble finding penski by the sheet . But I am getting a couple sheets for a guy next week and can see about one more if you havent found it . I live in Brevard . Its 175.00 for 3/4 inch 4ft by 8ft .


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## jms (Apr 21, 2011)

> Isn't marine ply and pt the same except marine ply doesn't have knots in it ?  Just curious because that's what I was told some time ago.
> Also .... I agree with the penski board with a transom rebuild.  That's the best for that !



no big difference


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## Izzy11 (Dec 23, 2011)

> > Isn't marine ply and pt the same except marine ply doesn't have knots in it ?  Just curious because that's what I was told some time ago.
> > Also .... I agree with the penski board with a transom rebuild.  That's the best for that !
> 
> 
> no big difference


My buddy told me that a while back and I wasn't sure. 
Thanks


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## Batt34786 (Apr 7, 2011)

Thanks, Glasser16 - but I've elected to go back to my original plan of getting professional help. I hear there is medication you can take for a rotten transom and at this point I'll try anything.

Actually, I cleaned out most of the rotten plywood and will have Premier Marine finish it from here - with composite sheathing. I'll post pics when done.


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