# Scott's Conchfish 16 build



## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

Yes, another Conchfish build. I helped my buddy Don last year with his build, which was one of the first Conchfish built I'm pretty sure. If I didn't already have 2 boats I'd be building myself one, but this one is for another friend, Scott. We started the first week of June, and made quick progress, but work and the 4th holiday slowed things down a bit. We have it ready for glass, but need a day when we both have nothing else going on, but should be fairly soon. Nothing written in stone at this stage, but tentative plans are for tiller steer, 3 hatches, built in 8-10gallon tank, 30 hp?, no jack plate or tabs to start, wide gunwales with rod storage. I'm posting a bunch of pics for now, and will update somewhere down the line. I have a question for Chris if you're following along. When I helped Don with his we did 2 layers of cloth wet on wet one day, stopping there due to 90+ temps, and working in the sun, then Don sanded and did the third layer himself. On the inside he laid all 3 layers of the 10 oz. and saturated them all at the same time, per what he told me was your suggestion. Is that true, and is that a legit way of laying the glass, all 3 at the same time. Sure would save a hell of a lot of time and hassle. Thanks for any insight or suggestions. Sure is a fun way to build a boat, just wish it was going to be mine in the end. I'll definitely be building one in the future, even if I need to sell it, boat builder virus is a serious thing for sure. Mike


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## Fritz (Jan 17, 2017)

Awesome! I still refer back to Don’s build for reference and encouragement.

I’m pretty sure Chris will say doing all three layers of glass wet to wet is fine, maybe even ideal. I’m positive you’re a fool if you take advice from me... at least on boat building (my advice on money and women can also be pretty terrible), so we should wait for the smart guys to show up, they’ll be along shortly.

What was the thinking with wide planks on the flat stern? I’d like to just use one or two big pieces back there.


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

Fritz said:


> Awesome! I still refer back to Don’s build for reference and encouragement.
> 
> I’m pretty sure Chris will say doing all three layers of glass wet to wet is fine, maybe even ideal. I’m positive you’re a fool if you take advice from me... at least on boat building (my advice on money and women can also be pretty terrible), so we should wait for the smart guys to show up, they’ll be along shortly.
> 
> What was the thinking with wide planks on the flat stern? I’d like to just use one or two big pieces back there.


We thought of using one wide piece from the transom going forward, but I think that would only be ok 2-3 feet going forward, where the bottom is really flat. We ran those 6" wide planks about 7 feet forward where the hull has enough of a curve that we were concerned it may not keep it's shape when the stations are removed and flatten out some. 6" planks worked great, and went together very quickly. We had some leftover 1 1/2" strips that we screwed down across the hull between stations to keep them better aligned, and it worked out very well.


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## Chris Morejohn (May 12, 2014)

Seapro, nice to meet you.
Ok... everyone it does not matter how wide the core is in planks, it can be kerfed core only as long as it’s laid down fair. Once the glass skin is laid over the core on both sides it’s in sheer and it does not matter if it’s planks or little square core blocks.
NOW LISTEN TO ME.... lay the core on the jig, putty in the seam gaps a bit....THEN LIGHTY FAIR THE CORE.
Once done, that is the high spots are gone, the sharp chine edges are rounded enough for the glass to lay over easily then RESIN COAT THE HULL AFTER VACUUMING. DO NOT FAIR THE CORED HULL WITH PUTTY BEFORE GLASSING. Just glass the cored hull.Once Nicely glassed then add your fairing compound and fair the hull. Otherwise you are fairing your hull twice.
Let the fairing putty take care of your glass work.
I will be posting pictures on my Instagram site the next few days of me fairing rudders and daggerboards to show what’s up.
IT DOES NOT MATTER WHICH DIRECTION YOUR CORE IS GOING IN, JUST GET THE HULL STATIONS COVERED IN A FAIRISH MANNER, THEN GLASS. THEN FAIR.
Once flipped over you glass the inside and she will be as stiff as ever.
NOW, if it’s not to hot and you know your skill level with the thin skins of this design you can layup as many layers at a time as you can because it’s just not that thick. No heat build up.

I thank you all for the energy to want to build this design. She’s worth the effort.


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## Indoman (Jul 25, 2013)

I noticed in one of the pictures the water heater in the background. Any concern with resin fumes and the pilot light as a possible ignition source? I may be way over thinking this, but in planning for my build (Boron) I’ve wondered about this since I’ll be using poly.


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

Indoman said:


> I noticed in one of the pictures the water heater in the background. Any concern with resin fumes and the pilot light as a possible ignition source? I may be way over thinking this, but in planning for my build (Boron) I’ve wondered about this since I’ll be using poly.


Thanks Chris for the prompt reply. When we built Don's last year he also faired with glass bubbles prior to glassing just to fill in all the imperfections in the way the foam laid down, so that's why we went ahead and did the same thing, although we used a mix of bubbles and micro balloons. We wet out all the foam before spreading the filler, and now that it's sanded down we have a near perfect hull to glass. I figured it would make the glass lay down better with less chance of air pockets etc., but I guess all we needed to do was sand the foam. Oh well, it wasn't that many hours extra work, and gave Scott lots of practice learning how to fair and sand. Chris, do you plan on releasing plans for a smaller version, like the Skate, I think it would be a fun little skiff to build someday? Mike


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Looking good. We're going to need a Conchfish build forum. It's getting hard to keep up with them all.


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## jglidden (Feb 13, 2014)

ConchfishArmada


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## jbnc (Feb 28, 2017)

Sublime said:


> Looking good. We're going to need a Conchfish build forum. It's getting hard to keep up with them all.


My watched thread list is getting out of hand with CF builds. Now if I could hurry up and find a new house so I can stop watching and start doing...


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

Sublime said:


> Looking good. We're going to need a Conchfish build forum. It's getting hard to keep up with them all.


Someone actually started one -- we really should use it. I'll see if I can find the link.

edit: found it -- http://morejohnbuilders.freeforums.net/


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

bryson said:


> Someone actually started one -- we really should use it. I'll see if I can find the link.
> 
> edit: found it -- http://morejohnbuilders.freeforums.net/



I have an excel sheet with all kinds of snippits from these threads. There's some good information on this forum. I was going to send a copy to @Fritz , but it has grown too big to mail lol.


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## Pole Position (Apr 3, 2016)

Sublime said:


> I have an excel sheet with all kinds of snippits from these threads. There's some good information on this forum. I was going to send a copy to @Fritz , but it has grown too big to mail lol.


No kidding....I think mine has gotten longer than "War and Peace ", albeit a helluva lot better read.


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## Chris Beutel (May 2, 2018)

Go figure. I want to watch this forum too but the Corporate firewall won't let me from my desk!

http://morejohnbuilders.freeforums.net/


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## Fritz (Jan 17, 2017)

Sublime said:


> I have an excel sheet with all kinds of snippits from these threads. There's some good information on this forum. I was going to send a copy to @Fritz , but it has grown too big to mail lol.


I’ve been doing the same thing, cutting and copying notes and tips, Chris will eventually ‘write the book’ but until then...


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## Chris Morejohn (May 12, 2014)

seapro17sv said:


> Thanks Chris for the prompt reply. When we built Don's last year he also faired with glass bubbles prior to glassing just to fill in all the imperfections in the way the foam laid down, so that's why we went ahead and did the same thing, although we used a mix of bubbles and micro balloons. We wet out all the foam before spreading the filler, and now that it's sanded down we have a near perfect hull to glass. I figured it would make the glass lay down better with less chance of air pockets etc., but I guess all we needed to do was sand the foam. Oh well, it wasn't that many hours extra work, and gave Scott lots of practice learning how to fair and sand. Chris, do you plan on releasing plans for a smaller version, like the Skate, I think it would be a fun little skiff to build someday? Mike


You are doing a fantastic job, I’am just trying to save time for others.
I am 6 hours later in time here in Hawaii. I will be off sailing the 24th of this month to BC Canada so will be at sea for a month. The only way to contact me then will be via my Garmin Enreach and texting.
This winter I will be in NC building a couple of skiffs and will come out with a few Skate size skiff designs. Right now I just have too much going on to finish.
When I finish my sailing voyage I would like to form a CONCHFISH association to log in all the finished skiffs as they are launched. Have a list of all builds going on etc and try and get builders to share jigs built with new builders near by. Right now these designs are being built in Australia, Abu Dhabi and in the US from Colorado and Texas out east.


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

Chris Morejohn said:


> You are doing a fantastic job, I’am just trying to save time for others.
> I am 6 hours later in time here in Hawaii. I will be off sailing the 24th of this month to BC Canada so will be at sea for a month. The only way to contact me then will be via my Garmin Enreach and texting.
> This winter I will be in NC building a couple of skiffs and will come out with a few Skate size skiff designs. Right now I just have too much going on to finish.
> When I finish my sailing voyage I would like to form a CONCHFISH association to log in all the finished skiffs as they are launched. Have a list of all builds going on etc and try and get builders to share jigs built with new builders near by. Right now these designs are being built in Australia, Abu Dhabi and in the US from Colorado and Texas out east.


Chris, I have to ask, when you started selling plans, did you ever expect there would be so many guys willing to tackle a home build. The primary reason for me building my first skiff, Jacque's Mertens' FS18, was economics. I could not possibly afford any of the skiffs I wanted, and had fished my buddy's Glades Skiff for 4 years, and had to have a skinny water boat. If my financial situation was different, I wouldn't hesitate in buying a skiff for 30-50 grand, hell, a new truck costs that much, and all I do is drive it to work. So, being a poor carpenter forced me into building a boat, which was the first of 4 of Jacques' stitch and glue designs, then assisted Don with his Conchfish, and now building Scott's. What's crazy is I can't wait to start another, it's that much fun and satisfying. Thanks Chris for such a nice detailed set of plans, very easy to follow. Mike


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## EdK13 (Oct 3, 2013)

seapro17sv said:


> Chris, I have to ask, when you started selling plans, did you ever expect there would be so many guys willing to tackle a home build. The primary reason for me building my first skiff, Jacque's Mertens' FS18, was economics. I could not possibly afford any of the skiffs I wanted, and had fished my buddy's Glades Skiff for 4 years, and had to have a skinny water boat. If my financial situation was different, I wouldn't hesitate in buying a skiff for 30-50 grand, hell, a new truck costs that much, and all I do is drive it to work. So, being a poor carpenter forced me into building a boat, which was the first of 4 of Jacques' stitch and glue designs, then assisted Don with his Conchfish, and now building Scott's. What's crazy is I can't wait to start another, it's that much fun and satisfying. Thanks Chris for such a nice detailed set of plans, very easy to follow. Mike


Thats badass right there Carpenter. Awesome actually!


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## SC on the FLY (Sep 16, 2015)

What specs on the Conchfish 16? what do you all who are building think the estimated cost when done will be? not accounting for time of course, sorry if this was covered already, these builds are all badass


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

SC on the FLY said:


> What specs on the Conchfish 16? what do you all who are building think the estimated cost when done will be? not accounting for time of course, sorry if this was covered already, these builds are all badass


Don't have the plans in front of me, but I think 16'4" and about 72" beam. Should weigh between 300-350 pounds. Cost, I'd say between 5 and 6 grand. Mike


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## Chris Morejohn (May 12, 2014)

seapro17sv said:


> Chris, I have to ask, when you started selling plans, did you ever expect there would be so many guys willing to tackle a home build. The primary reason for me building my first skiff, Jacque's Mertens' FS18, was economics. I could not possibly afford any of the skiffs I wanted, and had fished my buddy's Glades Skiff for 4 years, and had to have a skinny water boat. If my financial situation was different, I wouldn't hesitate in buying a skiff for 30-50 grand, hell, a new truck costs that much, and all I do is drive it to work. So, being a poor carpenter forced me into building a boat, which was the first of 4 of Jacques' stitch and glue designs, then assisted Don with his Conchfish, and now building Scott's. What's crazy is I can't wait to start another, it's that much fun and satisfying. Thanks Chris for such a nice detailed set of plans, very easy to follow. Mike


I have always figured there would lots of people wanting to build their own skiff. What was just needed was a good well proven hull shape and some good backup for advice. It has taken a couple of years to get the momentum going along with a thousand emails back and forth but now the world can see by all of your jobs how a skiff comes down to just one day at a time to build.
The reason you don’t see as many skiffs being built is there are millions more cars, motorcycles and mechanical vehicles out there being built by regular guys than there are skiffs being owned. A good show on tv would be filming the skiff shops and their work, Brian Floyd, Glassers Shop, Tom Gordon’s, the skiff shop and so on.
The skiffmarket is very small still. The Bateau skiff builds are great, but to get a more complicated hull shape you have to build like the CONCHFISH/Beryllium skiffs.

I feel that this site should set up a colum page just for skiffs being built using plans only. This way everyone will stay on this site and use it for all the tips and inspiration here. If you go to the site set up in my name you leave this site and Micro skiff loses advertising revenue. 

After I finish my last leg of sailing the Pacific this month then I will be setting up shop in Mt. Olive NC to build and record a couple of custom designs of mine for the book I have been writing. I will have lots more skiff designs available this winter to fit all needs.

All it takes is a bit of space and the inspiration to build.

Glad you like the plans, it’s a work in progress.
Thanks


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

I'm not there yet, but this part scares me as far as fitting up. Any pointers?


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## Chris Morejohn (May 12, 2014)

Sublime said:


> I'm not there yet, but this part scares me as far as fitting up. Any pointers?
> 
> View attachment 83102


Take a 12” small wood board and use it with sand paper on it to round all the chine edges to a 3/8” radius. This radius is needed to be able to get the cloth to lay over easily without air bubbles.
So just round out that vee area on the edges. 
Once the hull is glassed then you can Fair that pointed channel in with putty to get the shape needed.
I use old belt sanding belts that just fit into a wood board that I cut to fit. I round over the ends. Makes a very handy short-longboard fairing board


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Thanks Chris. Every build I have followed at some point has this gap to do something with. Also is the lower chine more for tracking or lift?


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## Fritz (Jan 17, 2017)

My opinion; this building technique might change everything in the skiff world. An individual can trade his time and save a TON of money and come up with something wonderful and cutting edge, or you can hire a custom builder like Travis and still be WAY ahead on the money side and get a really awesome boat. If you want to make changes, wider deck, longer skiff, shorter skiff, more hatches, rounded transom, whatever... just so much you can do pretty easily that could never happen popping a hull from a mold.

Chris we might need an official Conchfish sticker... just sayin’, it will become a brand recognized and sought after on the secondary market.


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## kamakuras (Feb 23, 2012)

For that gap where the chine terminates just puzzle what core strips you can into there and fill any small gaps with putty. Then when you fair before you glass you will shape it to match the shape of the hull. Toothpicks between pieces help hold everything together.


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## Pole Position (Apr 3, 2016)

Fritz said:


> Chris we might need an official Conchfish sticker... just sayin’, it will become a brand recognized and sought after on the secondary market.


https://www.microskiff.com/threads/conchfish-16.51470/page-34

scroll down a bit...

Hi. 

My name is Eric Kimes. I'm part of the wood core Conchfish 16 build in Pompano Beach. The wood core skiff is being built by a group of friends all working together. 

We got a Conchfish 16 logo design together. The design has been approved by Chris Morejohn. I attached pictures of the decals and tee shirt colors. Prices are as follows: Decal (either color) $11.00 / Short Sleeve Tee Shirt $20.00 / Long Sleeve Tee Shirt $25.00. The shirt colors and decal colors are shown in the attachment. These prices are before shipping. We aren't making money on the orders, just paying the cost for materials and set up at the shirt printer. Orders are being taken through Saturday October 13, 2018. Please indicate your size, short or long sleeve, and color. Payment by paypal if you want them shipped or cash with local pickup in the Pompano Beach FL area. My cell is 919-432-7112 if you want to send me a text. 

You can follow our wood core build on Instagram. The IG account we update to is @conchfish16 
facebook is Conchfish 16 Build Team

Sincerely, 
Eric


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## Chris Morejohn (May 12, 2014)

Sublime said:


> Thanks Chris. Every build I have followed at some point has this gap to do something with. Also is the lower chine more for tracking or lift?
> 
> View attachment 83104


The lower chine pockets were designed to redirect the lower spray downwards more than conventional Chines when running and when at rest they are keels for when poling.
The original Whipray had them big like the CONCHFISH design but Flip asked me to fill them in a bit. Hal was my employer at the time so I said fine. HB had not been started yet.
Well now we all know that my original idea works way better. Just look at the videos of the CF skiffs planing along. This detail makes all the others like my past Chines obsolete.
All my designs now have this detail.
When you fill in with core instead of the thin sheet of glass that’s shown in the plans you shrink the pocket by a 1/2”. No big deal.
Anyone wants CONCHFISH tee shirts, skiff decals, etc contact the guys on instagram at #Conchfish16 they have all the bling.
I am working in Hilo Hawaii as project leader finish building this sailing canoe. I will take off sailing to BC next week so will be at sea for a month, 2,900 mile sail nonstop alone.
All the builders can still ask questions via my Garmin Enreach link.
I will fly back and finish the canoe project for a November launching.


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## FireTurtle (Apr 27, 2019)

Chris Morejohn said:


> View attachment 83106
> 
> I am working in Hilo Hawaii as project leader finish building this sailing canoe. I will take off sailing to BC next week so will be at sea for a month, 2,900 mile sail nonstop alone.
> All the builders can still ask questions via my Garmin Enreach link.
> I will fly back and finish the canoe project for a November launching.


Chris, is this sailing canoe based off of a traditional Hawaiian craft? It looks like it will be an amazing ship.


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

Chris Morejohn said:


> When you fill in with core instead of the thin sheet of glass that’s shown in the plans you shrink the pocket by a 1/2”. No big deal.


Not tough to modify for the full chine width either -- I just drew my stations out exactly as the plans say, then scribed 1/2" inboard on all chine panels to account for the increase in thickness from 1/4" glass to 3/4" foam.

As for the corner part, I'm tackling that right now, but my approach looks pretty similar. Leave the chine panels proud of the "major" hull shape, then sand to match. Any gaps I have, I'll "puzzle-piece" in some foam. Any gaps left after all that jazz will be handled with putty.

Biggest thing I'm trying to keep in mind is that I want to err on the side of low spots. I can always fill with putty (although I want to keep that to a minimum), but I don't want to risk sanding into the glass to knock down high spots.


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

bryson said:


> Not tough to modify for the full chine width either -- I just drew my stations out exactly as the plans say, then scribed 1/2" inboard on all chine panels to account for the increase in thickness from 1/4" glass to 3/4" foam.
> 
> As for the corner part, I'm tackling that right now, but my approach looks pretty similar. Leave the chine panels proud of the "major" hull shape, then sand to match. Any gaps I have, I'll "puzzle-piece" in some foam. Any gaps left after all that jazz will be handled with putty.
> 
> Biggest thing I'm trying to keep in mind is that I want to err on the side of low spots. I can always fill with putty (although I want to keep that to a minimum), but I don't want to risk sanding into the glass to knock down high spots.


Just a quick update; Scott and I glassed the hull and spread the first application of fairing, but no time for anything further at this time. We wet out the foam and did 2 layers wet on wet, than Scott sanded it all down the following day and we laid the 3rd layer. Overall we were





















very satisfied with the outcome.


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Looking great.


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

I gotta echo what @Sublime said -- looking really good! So this is the second Conchfish build in that workspace? Where are y'all located?


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

I need a safe space because all of you are making me look bad. So Wednesday, I leave for Colorado for a while, so I can get even further behind.


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

bryson said:


> I gotta echo what @Sublime said -- looking really good! So this is the second Conchfish build in that workspace? Where are y'all located?


Thanks guys. We built my buddy Don's in his backyard in the blazing Florida sun. It was brutal glassing the outside, but he was able to move it under a carport for the rest of the build. Scott's is in his garage in Flagler Beach. I hope Colorado is cooler than this misery lately.


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## Jeff Stuckey (12 mo ago)

Chris Morejohn said:


> NOW LISTEN TO ME.... lay the core on the jig, putty in the seam gaps a bit....THEN LIGHTY FAIR THE CORE.
> Once done, that is the high spots are gone, the sharp chine edges are rounded enough for the glass to lay over easily then RESIN COAT THE HULL AFTER VACUUMING. DO NOT FAIR THE CORED HULL WITH PUTTY BEFORE GLASSING. Just glass the cored hull.Once Nicely glassed then add your fairing compound and fair the hull. Otherwise you are fairing your hull twice.


I guess what you are saying is to fair and sand the corners of the hull before glassing then do the major fairing job after glassing. Is that right? Because it is a little confusing that you said "Lightly fair the hull" before glassing but then said " Do not fair the core hull before glassing".


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Jeff Stuckey said:


> I guess what you are saying is to fair and sand the corners of the hull before glassing then do the major fairing job after glassing. Is that right? Because it is a little confusing that you said "Lightly fair the hull" before glassing but then said " Do not fair the core hull before glassing".


After you get all your foam on, just take your hand and run over all the edges of the planks and smooth of them that stick up by hand sanding. You will also inevitably have gaps between some of the planks. These you can fill with a putty of whatever you want. Also, assuming that you will be using Gorilla Glue be sure and clean up any oozage before it dries. That will save time on smoothing the foam before you put glass down. So to reiterate any oozage between the foam, whether it be gorilla glue or putty, clean it up before it dries. Otherwise, after it dries, it is much harder to sand than the surrounding foam so you will end up gouging your foam in places. Also, little divots in the foam are WAY better than pimples sticking up.


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## Jeff Stuckey (12 mo ago)

Sublime said:


> After you get all your foam on, just take your hand and run over all the edges of the planks and smooth of them that stick up by hand sanding. You will also inevitably have gaps between some of the planks. These you can fill with a putty of whatever you want. Also, assuming that you will be using Gorilla Glue be sure and clean up any oozage before it dries. That will save time on smoothing the foam before you put glass down. So to reiterate any oozage between the foam, whether it be gorilla glue or putty, clean it up before it dries. Otherwise, after it dries, it is much harder to sand than the surrounding foam so you will end up gouging your foam in places. Also, little divots in the foam are WAY better than pimples sticking up.


Thanks. I figured that was it but wanted to check.

Why are people using gorilla glue to adhere their strips? It would seem to me that using your epoxy made into peanut butter paste would give a far better bond and be able to be cleaned up as you go instead of having all the GG oozing out after the fact. Not to mention guarantee that you do not have any gaps that are not filled. You end up using it to fair the cracks anyway. Reasoning?


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Jeff Stuckey said:


> Thanks. I figured that was it but wanted to check.
> 
> Why are people using gorilla glue to adhere their strips? It would seem to me that using your epoxy made into peanut butter paste would give a far better bond and be able to be cleaned up as you go instead of having all the GG oozing out after the fact. Not to mention guarantee that you do not have any gaps that are not filled. You end up using it to fair the cracks anyway. Reasoning?


The Gorilla glue will expand some and will be easier to sand than epoxy. And the Gorilla glue is plenty strong. Glue two butt sections together and bend them until something breaks and it will always be the foam that breaks, not the joint.


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## Jeff Stuckey (12 mo ago)

I was reading last night and saw an interesting piece on perforating your foam before placing your glass and epoxy on the surface. It is supposed to prevent delaminating of the glass from the foam over time. Particularly in high stress areas or when exposed to heat for long periods. Do you know if anyone is doing this? It should also dramatically increase the strength of the foam. I am hoping to use 1/2” H80 so this would be great.


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

Jeff Stuckey said:


> I was reading last night and saw an interesting piece on perforating your foam before placing your glass and epoxy on the surface. It is supposed to prevent delaminating of the glass from the foam over time. Particularly in high stress areas or when exposed to heat for long periods. Do you know if anyone is doing this? It should also dramatically increase the strength of the foam. I am hoping to use 1/2” H80 so this would be great.


You can order it pre perforated but I would not use it in a one off. The perforations will let the resin drip through making the cleaning up/ fairing of the inside much more difficult and if you do a good lamination it’s not really needed.


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## Jeff Stuckey (12 mo ago)

JC Designs said:


> You can order it pre perforated but I would not use it in a one off. The perforations will let the resin drip through making the cleaning up/ fairing of the inside much more difficult and if you do a good lamination it’s not really needed.


Interesting. I did not imagine the perforations were through and through. I was thinking a little more along the lines of using a wall paper perforator to simply score the surface of the foam and allow a more grip to the foam.


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

Jeff Stuckey said:


> Interesting. I did not imagine the perforations were through and through. I was thinking a little more along the lines of using a wall paper perforator to simply score the surface of the foam and allow a more grip to the foam.


It’s really not needed with good foam engineered for this stuff. Many do that when using insulation foam and epoxy but structural core is a different animal. You actually run the risk of creating many many little air voids. I have been building with and using core for 25 plus years and never had a core failure or de lamination in my stuff. Make your shape, vacuum the foam or blow it off good, a wipe with an acetone rag won’t hurt, wet out your foam, lay up your part. All there is to it… sorta.😉


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

Jeff Stuckey said:


> Interesting. I did not imagine the perforations were through and through. I was thinking a little more along the lines of using a wall paper perforator to simply score the surface of the foam and allow a more grip to the foam.


I wouldn't bother with any perforations on quality core. I have heard of it in situations where people are trying to use the cheap foam with a slick surface, like pink insulation foam from a home store. Good PVC foam core like H80 is plenty thirsty -- I don't think it needs any help making a good surface for bonding other than vacuuming off any sanding dust.

Most important rule I follow is to never put any thickened resin directly on the foam core. Always wet it out with neat resin first -- you'd be amazed how much soaks in to the open cells on the surface of the material. Then when you add the putty, it bonds chemically to the neat resin and still gets its "teeth" into the foam surface for a good mechanical bond.


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## Jeff Stuckey (12 mo ago)

bryson said:


> I wouldn't bother with any perforations on quality core. I have heard of it in situations where people are trying to use the cheap foam with a slick surface, like pink insulation foam from a home store. Good PVC foam core like H80 is plenty thirsty -- I don't think it needs any help making a good surface for bonding other than vacuuming off any sanding dust.
> 
> Most important rule I follow is to never put any thickened resin directly on the foam core. Always wet it out with neat resin first -- you'd be amazed how much soaks in to the open cells on the surface of the material. Then when you add the putty, it bonds chemically to the neat resin and still gets its "teeth" into the foam surface for a good mechanical bond.


Great and logical idea!


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## Mike Haydon (Dec 19, 2019)

What happened to this build? Any updates?


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## Yako (Jan 7, 2019)

Mike Haydon said:


> What happened to this build? Any updates?


Id like to see more updates as well.


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