# Alternatives to Epoxy for Cap to Hull



## trekker (Sep 19, 2015)

Anybody have suggestions or experience for gluing my cap to the hull? I tend to work in small batches and hate the idea of mixing up that much dope at one time. 

Boat is foam core, 16' long, 44'' tapering down to 30'' at the transom. Roughly 60" of bulkheads.


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## Gatorgrizz27 (Apr 4, 2015)

I haven’t tried to use it for that, but this stuff will bond just about anything to anything. It is waterproof, remains slightly flexible, and absolute hell to get off your skin. I tried using industrial equipment cleaner that will strip hardened automotive enamel out of paint guns, and it didn’t touch it. It’s also available at Home Depot and only $6 for a caulk gun sized tube. 

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/pl...remium-Polyurethane-Construction-Adhesive.htm


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

For that particular job, you might consider using the epoxy that comes in tubes from Jamestown Distributors. The hardener and resin are in paired tubes that fit a special double barrel caulk gun. You screw a mixing tip on the front and then lay a bead. It is pricey, but for a job where you need to work fast, it would be a life saver. I'd probably buy the slow harder and wait for a day with temps in the lower end of the hardener's range. Lay all the beads, place the cap in place, weight it down and then shine halogen work lights at the deck. Use as many halogen lights as you breaker will allow. If you get a tan when you look in the garage to check it out, you have enough halogens. The halogens will heat the deck and make the epoxy kick. Make sure you keep the halogens far enough away that they don't damage the hull. I've never had a problem with 18-24".

Nate


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

trekker said:


> Anybody have suggestions or experience for gluing my cap to the hull? I tend to work in small batches and hate the idea of mixing up that much dope at one time.
> 
> Boat is foam core, 16' long, 44'' tapering down to 30'' at the transom. Roughly 60" of bulkheads.


Although I have not used the epoxy in tubes myself, I think Nate's suggestion is a good one. I know West System makes an epoxy in tubes, and all of their products are excellent. If you already have epoxy, and if you have a helper, you should be able to do it without much trouble working together. Just wet out the surfaces with straight epoxy first, than mix enough that you'll need to add a structural filler to thicken, either wood flour, or one of the fillers sold by West, than just spread it as fast as you can, which should only take 5 minutes or so, plenty of time with a slow hardener. Another alternative is using a few tubes of 5200, which will give you all the time you need without any worries. A good bed of 5200 once fully cured will be near impossible to get apart without using a saw to cut the deck off. It also remains flexible, and is waterproof. If you decide to go the 5200 route, or the epoxy in tubes, be sure to have enough tubes on hand to go all the way around the boat without running out, because that would be a real disaster. You can return unused tubes later. I would stay away from home construction adhesives, like Liquid Nails, and Loctite, they may be a lot cheaper, but have nowhere near the strength or adhesive properties of the other products mentioned. Good luck with your project.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Plexus is the standard adhesive. It is stupid tough and little is needed in prep.

Epoxy is not ideal because it dries rock hard and you are looking for something that is just a bit flexible.

Dont forget that when you put the rub rail on you can use rivets through cap and hull to hold together. Remember, if you ever have to take it off you have to resort to a saw.


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## Farmer brown (Apr 10, 2018)

Another good product is flex poxy made by Pettit. It uses the same swizzle tips as the West system mixing stick.
It' a flexible epoxy that I have used in keel seams on sailing vessels


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## CurtisWright (May 9, 2012)

Plexus; I made a fiberglass battery box and glued it down to the floor so I diddnt have to drill holes. Its been there for 3 years and hasnt moved.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

CurtisWright said:


> Plexus; I made a fiberglass battery box and glued it down to the floor so I diddnt have to drill holes. Its been there for 3 years and hasnt moved.


It'll never move. The boat will disintegrate around it 

You can always try this stuff.










Almost forgot. 3M makes some flexible adhesives they are under the name Scotch Weld.


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## trekker (Sep 19, 2015)

Thanks to youins.


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## floridabrahmer (May 31, 2017)

Look at Thixo, I was told that would be a good choice for gluing my cap down. Its epoxy but you use it with a caulk gun and it doesnt cure real fast giving you time to get your cap & hull back together.


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Some builders use Sikaflex product or similar. If I were a builder I wouldn't because there are probably less expensive ways to do this.


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