# Rustoleum topside paint review



## Brett

It's been a few years since I've done any real hull painting.
But one thing I do remember about accomplishing the task
was that in order to get the paint to cover properly, was the need for multiple coats.
The paint was usually thinned, then brushed on.
After it dried, hand sanding with 220 grit to prep the surface for the next coat.
Had to repeat the process 4 times or more in order to get that deep color and gloss finish.
Couldn't use a sprayer at Merrill-Stevens. Had to worry about the other hulls around you.
I'm glad I don't have to maintain any more sailboats.

http://www.rustoleum.com/cbgresourcecenter.asp?sn=pro&pid=14


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## firecat1981

Brett I followed the directions with the exception of the primer, which I left out on purpose. Trust me, no thinning was needed! I did 3 coats in 3 days with a 4 day rest. I would rather use the rustoleum then west marines brand paint which never dried!


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## cpauly33

Where did you buy the paint from?


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## firecat1981

Some Lowes carry it, call first cause if that one doesn't they will know who does. It was in it's own display case with all the colors and primers.

Well here's a little update on the durability. It has gotten harder, you can still scratch it if you press hard, but it is now actually a little harder then the old samples of the interlux brightside I have. I'm debating between it and an industrial epoxy for my decks now, I think I'll still go with the rustoleum cause it will be easy to touch up if needed.


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## cutrunner

Firecat, dont take this wrongly but why dont you use a "real" coating such as awlgrip, awlcraft, imron, or even gelcoat. I understand awlgrips cost issue but if you spent all that time building another boat i just would hate to see you coat it in an unsuperior coating. When i was younger and just had aluminum jon boats i tried many different cost effective coatings and was very unimpressed by all. Never hardened, some stayed kinda soft, etc (i know u know all this already). My suggestion would be buy a gallon of gelcoat $30 an a gallon of duratech thinner and spray it. I think you can even foam brush it with the duratech. It comes out glossy and lays flat, also much easier to sand if need be and WILL b hard. I did it on my skiff and it turned out great.


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## firecat1981

Cut, I used 2-part paints in the past and on my last project and it's just not worth the trouble to me since I use and bang up my boat often. Using a 1-part makes repairs easy to touch up. The only place I think a 2-part is really worth it is on the bottom, but since I'm epoxy/graphiting it I don't need any paint there, the sides see virtually no wear and the deck will be webbed again which adds durability. I don't have the ability to spray anymore, but 1-part paints roll and tip so well you can't hardly tell the difference and it uses less paint. Then there is the price, I'm on a fixed budget from what I have left of the insurance check, so $200 is about all I plan to spend. Honestly I'm already over budget on some things but it's not bad yet.

If you've seen some of my old posts here and on other boards you know I've looked at many alternatives, the best one I found was the pilgrim plastic epoxy coating and may still use it, at $40 for a gallon kit it's a great deal and it is the toughest paint I've seen yet! (used alot for floors with forklift traffic). 
I looked at gelcoat alot and almost used it last time, but a few things stopped me. First once you buy the duratech you might as well had bought a 2-part paint. Then the gelcoat doesn't look nearly as good to me as paint does. Finally, and some have argued this but I called the distributor and asked them directly, you lose the durability of gelcoat when you mix it with duratech. I had 2 places I checked out try to sell me on duratech, when they showed me samples they looked better then stardard gel, but not as good as poly paint, but I was curious. Problem is the samples, at both locations, they showed me I was able to make a scratch in with my nail just like a 1-part, the samples of stardard gelcoat they had were much tougher and not impressionable. After calling the distributor I learned that thinning gelcoat with duratech sacrifices the durability for better brushability and appearance. I'm not bashing a product you used, I'm just relaying the information I discovered in my research. Still seems like a decent product except for the price, but now most gelcoat suppliers carry "brushable" gelcoat which already has something like duratech built in and usually costs less.


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## beyondhelp

I thinned and sprayed regular white rustoleum a while ago and I am really impressed. I don't do much except hose it off and occasionally scrub it down with a deck brush and some simple green, purple stuff or laundry detergent with some bleach. No cover, sits in the sun.

Yeah it took a while to completely cure but now it is extremely durable. I am going to have to repair some cracks in the fiberglass and add some transom knees maybe and I'll go over it again just so everything matches. I am really pleased. 

The 5200 i used to seal a couple of cracks turned yellow and nasty but the rustoleum looks good. 

I can't get the top of my cooler as white as the boat.


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## firecat1981

Good deal, thanks for posting up the pic.


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## cpauly33

I plan on using this stuff for the inside of my skiff. After my final coat how long do you suggest I let it cure before I can take the boat out?


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## firecat1981

From what I've seen so far I would let it sit for atleast 2 days past the normal 24 hours, or 1 good day in the sun.


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## beyondhelp

I agree. Mine was ok in almost all spots. I did damage the paint in areas where it had built up a little thicker and I scraped it with something hard/sharp. Now that it's cured it's fine. 

I used the plain old Rustoleum in a gallon can, I never knew there was a topside version.


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## bartbarry

So, No problems with the rustoleum bonding to the deck?? I'm painting mine next weekend and was leaning towards H/C 2 part epoxy floor coating...but if the R-O product holds up well, I would like to go that route,not only more cost effective,but I'm hard on my deck,gigging and fishing...touch ups seem easier with a 1 part paint. I'm not looking for show quality,just clean and durable.


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## firecat1981

Updates:

First the samples I made. They have been sitting outside on my patio for the last 3 months. I forgot about them till yesterday when I started priming my boat. The samples have been exposed to sun rain and skunky sprinkler water. They look exactly the same as when I first posted them. However to my suprise the paint has continued to cure and is now much harder then before. Still not quite as hard as a 2-part paint, but it seems much more durable then the interlux brightside I still have samples of. I'm now very happy with my choice.

Next the large scale application. I did the front and rear compartments of my boat. The primer is a little thinner then I would have liked but covered well for only using one coat on non faired glass. I used a foam roller for the primer and it dried within a few hours, but I gave it overnight before a quick sanding with 220. The paint I applied with a small short nap roller. It is very thin paint and really there in no need to thin it more, but it covers well and lays down very well. it is thin so it will show every contour and imperfection so you have to make things real smooth if that will bother you. Here is a picture of one coat of primer and one coat of paint, I will be doing a second coat soon. At $11 a quart I definately think it's a bargain.


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## cpauly33

I also did the interior of my skiff with the Rustoleum. I'd say its been about 2 months. Probably had the boat out about 10 times. Stored in the Garage. Seems to be holding up pretty well. I would definitely give it at least a week to cure. I only waited 2 days and had to do some touch ups but I've been happy with it since. 

Are you still planning on using the Interlux for the exterior? I'm thinking about doing the same and I'd like to see how it holds up.


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## FlatCat

Some of the drying/curing may have to do with humidity. I use a lot of different adhesives and coatings in my business and have found that humidity can be more important than temp or uv exposure with many products.


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## FlatCat

I've also found that a lot of a coatings cost has to do with speed/commercial applicability. Dry time/recoat time is huge for commercial finishing, not as much for a diy project.


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## jeffryslater

I think Rustoleum is the best for the interior of the skiff. 
Even i had painted with it few months before, and i am really happy with it.. But that's my experience and if u still wanna switch to another its up to you..

Best of luck..!


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## cwalden

I have recently painted the interior of my Gheenoe clone with the Rustoeum Topside and have just one complant. I put 4 coats on the entire interior and a fifth coat on the floor

coats 1 through 3 were applied one day apart. Then I went on 10 day vacation. Upon returning I applied the floor coat. Two days later I applied another entire coat. Two weeks later, I used the boat. Upon arriving at the water, I found that the strap over the gunwales that held the boat to the trailer wore the paint off. No big deal. Kinda expected. The part that surprised me was upon clean-up. When spraying out the fish goo with a waterhouse, the fifth coat was peeling out of the center areas of the boat. About a 1'X2' area in the front and a 1'X1' are in the center. Now that the peeling is complete, you cant tell, but how much more will come?


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## firecat1981

Might just be too many coats, I believe they recommended 2-3 thin coats when rolling. The stuff dries slow! very Slow! and will continue to cure for weeks, I would just try and not hit it with a direct hose stream for a while, eventually it will harden up.

That being said I do plan to buy some valspar enamel hardener to mix into mine when I do it soon.

As an update, my original test samples have been sitting outside in the sun on top of my BBQ grill for 5 months now on non sealed wood samples (except the one strip of glass). Still lookin good, yes you can still scratch it with a nail, but it seems a bit better then the interlux brightside still.


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## AfterHours2

IMHO, having used a variety of paints, you just get what you pay for.. If you are going to spend the time to prep then you should spend the extra $ on the paint. Sure you can go down to Lowes and buy a single based product for super cheap. But I guarantee you it won't hold up as good as the superior products that cost a little more.. Myself, I wouldn't use anything interior or exterior that wasn't a two or three part product.. A one part tends to never cure to it's potential and even after months it still is still vulnerable to being easily scraped. Take for instance your average Warehouse floor. I have painted many and never have seen any Lowes latex garage floor paint used. Instead a two part epoxy and within 24 hours cars can be driven in and out without any scraps or scuffs. That to me is overkill when compared to the bottom of a boat but just a great example. Spend the few bills and just do it right the first time. One good thing about a good paint on the floor of the boat, you can have the old lady in her bikini and high heels dancing around for you all day and not have to worry about repainting when you get home ;D


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## cutrunner

Amen


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## firecat1981

Please delete your comments and stop highjacking my thread, we have been over this debate many times and this is not a what paint is better thread. This is a review of rustoleum thread. 
I priced out better paints, and I have used other one and 2 part paints, I don't care to do it again on this project, when it is your project you may do as you wish. 2-part paints are difficult to apply correctly and repair, and I plan to actually fish on my boat.


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## AfterHours2

Just trying to help another member out. Sorry if I offended you by my opinions and or highjack your thread??


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## firecat1981

I appreciate your opinions, but this whole thing was already covered and dismissed in this topic earlier, and he wasn't asking for an alternative, he was asking for advise on the paint which is the focus here. It's like someone saying hey my ford pinto broke down can I get advise and a guy responding sure go buy a chevy. You know the whole apples and oranges deal. There are definately 2 camps here, the one-part budget builders, and the 2-part guys. I guess you can also say there is a third section of gelcoat fans, which I may join next time without the duratech, but thats a whole other animal.


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## Quad1973

Firecat said


> That being said I do plan to buy some valspar enamel hardener to mix into mine when I do it soon.


You plan to add valspar enamel hardner (see link below) to the Rustoeum Topside?

http://www.tractorsupply.com/agriculture-farming-ranching/tractor-tune-up-repair/tractor-paint-safety-emblems-decals/tractor-paint/valspar-enamel-hardner-8-fl-oz--3449669

Also, would you be using the Rustoeum Topside primer prior to the finish coats (over new resin and old sanded areas)?


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## firecat1981

Yes and Yes


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## Quad1973

Thanks for the answer. How much hardner with the topside? Hardner in the primer too?


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## firecat1981

I'll just use it with the paint, and whatever the instruction say I will cut it back by about 25% or so. I believe with valspar it's one bottle per gallon.


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## firecat1981

I picked up some enamel hardener to try with the rustoleum. I mixed it according to instructions (16:1) and tossed some on a sample. We will see how it works. 
I did check the original samples I painted while I was outside, it seems this paint really does take a long time to cure fully. I thought it was as hard as it would get last time I checked, but you could still make a nail impression, not bad as other paints I've used, but still. Well I checked the samples today and they are actually much harder and you can barely scratch them at all. I'm excited to see how the enamel hardener works out.


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## DuckNut

What kind of hardness increase did you experience when the hardener was added?


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## firecat1981

I would say after the first 24-48 hours it's about 30-40% harder then the paint would be without the hardener. It works as advertised, which is part of the problem because it says it will speed up drying. Without the hardener the paint takes a few hours, maybe 3-4, to dry to the touch, but with it it will dry to the touch in less then 30 minutes in this heat. Which would be fine if you weren't painting a whole boat, but it basically tacks over instantly, so blending in sides is not easy, or really possible. I reduced it by 20% which helped, but not that much. If it was 85 degrees outside it would work great, but 97 degrees not so much. It would have been much easier to spray it because of this issue.


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## AfterHours2

Heat + Rolling/Tipping Paint = Nightmare... Thinning or reducing a paint to make it more "user friendly" only affects the integrity of the product. In the future, no matter which paint you decide on, I would strongly suggest taking the time to throughly prep your rig for a spray application. The prep time is a pain but the end result is worth every bit of time... Afterall, you have spent countless hours building/designing your micro and I would not slack on anything to date.... If spraying is an issue for you then PM me and maybe we can setup a "Spray Date".. LOL ;D


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## firecat1981

The product itself seems to be doing well, but the heat is definately making it a nightmare. When you read product labels and dry times it usually gives atleast 2 time ranges. One being 70 degrees and the other 90, they also assume a max of 50% humidity. Going outside this range usually causes problems. If I had finished the boat in June like I planned, it would have worked out great.
As far as spraying goes, if I ever build anything major again (don't count a kayak), I will be buying a compressor and spraying. For now all I have is a tiny 2 gallon which won't do me much good.


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## dannysboat84

i am going to be painting my 1986 19ft searay with rustoluem topside marine paint and has anyone ever used valspar enamel hardner in the topside and how much hardner will i add into a quart, and how much thinner should i add, some people said 
1/2 cup of hardner and 1/2 cup of acetone and mix, i am using a hvlp paint gun with a 1.4 tip or should i use a 2.0 tip please help


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## firecat1981

I used the hardener and I'm still pleased with the result 2 years later. You mix it 16:1 into the paint so you will need to do some math depending on how much your cup holds. I did not spray it so I can't tell you what to do, I think I reduced it by about 5% or so for rolling and tipping.

It's not as durable as a 2-part paint, or gelcoat, but it has been holding up to a lot of abuse. The only parts where it really has worn is where my cooler has been sliding around on the floor and deck. For a budget build I would definately use it again.


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## ChrisDoza

sorry, first time poster. hope you dont consider this too much of a highjack but i have a j16 that could use a little cleanup on the inside. do you think that using shuffleboard sillica sand would be ok to add to, say after the second coat and before the 3rd and/or 4th coats of the rustoleum topside, for grip would be ok to use? i have a few cans of it (plus its relatively cheap at 5-6 $ a bottle) and have always wondered if it would be good for grip in the hull. all thoughts welcomed.


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## Rediculous

> sorry, first time poster. hope you dont consider this too much of a highjack but i have a j16 that could use a little cleanup on the inside. do you think that using shuffleboard sillica sand would be ok to add to, say after the second coat and before the 3rd and/or 4th coats of the rustoleum topside, for grip would be ok to use? i have a few cans of it (plus its relatively cheap at 5-6 $ a bottle) and have always wondered if it would be good for grip in the hull. all thoughts welcomed.


Yes, it'll be fine. It's just kinda tough to get it even. But if you're just doing the floor, that shouldn't matter to much.


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## david_kohler

Did you use epoxy resin on this boat? I guess if you did it worked good.


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## firecat1981

Yes, I typically only use epoxy resin on my projects.


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## racer04

I tried reading more indepth to your early post about rustoleum paint what was the final verdict on exact type and name of paint to use ? I want to paint the undersides and insides of my boat with a cheap paint and maybe only do the tops of the decks with something like awlgrip. 

Also I can only roll, sprayer is out of the question in the area I'm working in. I wanted to make the top deck have granules in it and was going to add a border with tape. Any hints tips or tricks... I'm kinda over budget also or I wouldn't do it half ass if do the whole thing to the T normally


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## racer04

Also if I mix the topside with granules how do you guys think that will work out? Itll be a lot cheaper than awlgrip but I really need the grip Bc I'm a clumsy tard


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## firecat1981

Sorry I'm working a 108 hour work week and only have my phone to respond on so bare with me.

As I've said on other threads the only real difference between standard Rustoleum and Rustoleum marine is the colors and labels. My boat has both on it and 2.5 years later it is holding up well.

I did use the valspar enamel hardener with it and I highly recommend it. If you don't use it let each coat dry for 2-3 days or else the under coat may never fully dry and the paint will be soft and peel easily. Also don't forget the primer, the standard white one is fine. For rolling and tipping thin it by 5% or so but I wouldn't go above 10% unless it is extremely warm outside.

As far as non skid goes you can do it several ways, either mixing it in the paint or sprinkle it on in between coats while it is still wet. Which ever way you go get the non skid made for paint, don't use play sand.


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## racer04

Looks like I'm on the right track then the only other question is it says mineral spirits can be used to thin it, does this mean acetone? I think acetone is but I want to be 100% before I go wasting paint. 

I also bought a hardner called transtar "classic" which I'm going to test to make sure it works since I can't find the valspar anywhere unless I wait a week to order it


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## DuckNut

Mineral spirits is not acetone the same as pot is not crack.

No they can not be used interchangeably


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## firecat1981

As DN said acetone and mineral spirits are totally different. Make sure you use mineral spirits. 

I don't know what transtar is, I tried a quick search and all I find about it is a reference to a clear coat paint system, if that's the same as you are refering then I would not use it. You can get the valspar enamel hardener at tractor supply.


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## racer04

Haha okay


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## racer04

No wrong reference it says enamel hardner right on the side and a # like 1807 or somthing I told the people at the paint store exactly what it was for and had the paint in hand so I don't think they could get it that messed up


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## firecat1981

Be careful, not all enamel hardeners are created equal. I know the valspar is compatible, do a search online and try to find someone who has actually used the product, don't trust the guys at the paint store.

I'm still trying to find the product you are talking about, where did you buy it, can you post a picture?


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## racer04

they said try a very small amount and see if it hardens first before I waste a quart of paint.




also is that the right non skid


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## racer04

I might return it because looking at it further I thought it said hardens but it only says more durable only whats your thoughts? junk? I could careless about being glossy if anything I want it less glossy. I just want it to harden faster.


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

If you got it from Higgs you should be fine, those guys know their stuff


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## racer04

Yes I did noe and I told them exactly what I was going they just told me to test it


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## DLBjaxbeach

I am getting ready to use rustoleum topsides for my project. I was in Lowes the other day and the instructions on the can said to use a de-waxer on the old fiberglass first and to use a solvent wash on the new epoxy areas. Just curious what you recommend on this Firecat? Also, if using a solvent wash, which solvent? Thanks!


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## DuckNut

Wash everything with a heavy mix of Dawn dish soap and water.

If you dry it - you must use rags that are clean and have not had dryer sheets added to the dryer, paper towels without print.

Then you can use acetone with (once again, clean rags) to wipe and then immediately paint.


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

> Wash everything with a heavy mix of Dawn dish soap and water.
> 
> If you dry it - you must use rags that are clean and have not had dryer sheets added to the dryer, paper towels without print.
> 
> Then you can use acetone with (once again, clean rags) to wipe and then immediately paint.


This is what I did with mine. Stands up well to foot traffic but anything like rods/reels/platforms/coolers will scuff it. Would consider using it again, but only because its stupid-easy to work with and cheap.


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## DLBjaxbeach

great. thanks. easy and cheap is reason enough for me.


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