# 1985 Grumman 16' Aluminum Boat Restore



## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

Hello,
I am restoring a 1985 Grumman 16' Aluminum Boat and I am looking for people who are experienced in restores. I have a lot of time on my hands and I needed a project. I am an accomplished wood worker and a fair handyman but this will be my first boat. I recently bought this boat/trailer on Craig's List and the boat was partially torn down by the past owner.

Below are a few photos of the boat. The last photo is what the boat looks like at the present time. I am committed to finishing this boat and trailer for fishing in Lake Lanier Georgia and taking my two sons out for a good time. I make a decent living so I am not in any delusion that this restore is going to be cheap or that I will be able to get my money that I put into this boat back from the sale of it.

I am power wire brushing the inside of the boat first with an angle grinder brush and a few power drill attached wire brushes. I plan on stripping every single surface on the inside and all the floor supports. When all this is done, I plan on stripping the bottom as well. Then when all is stripped, I will fill all pitting with marine jb weld and I am going to try my hand with low temperature aluminum brazing rod and map gas for the small holes that I have found thus far. I have not welded anything before so it will be interesting if I can do it.

I have posted this on another site as well to try to get some help with this build. The transom is completely gone so I will need to rebuild it one day. The boat is almost 7 feet wide so that is one heck of a transom to fix. One step at a time. I am a lifetime learner and I really love this stuff even though my 61 year old body does not like it much. I will continue to work on it with or without help but it sure would be good to hear from people that have done this before to help with the pitfalls.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Not detracting from this forum but you might also reference tinboats.net
There are a ton of aluminum builds you can pick ideas and techniques from. I have one on there from several years ago.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

here is our restore of my 67 StarCraft alum skiff. still looks and runs great. may be of some help. pretty long thread though.

(73) rebuilding my 1st skiff for son and grandson | Dedicated To The Smallest Of Skiffs (microskiff.com)


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

17 ft. 1978 Sea Nymph 









1978 Sea Nymph


Nothing really to brag about. Picked this up a little while ago and had expected to have a few days of minor repairs and then to use it in the SF Bay and local waters. But the more I looked the less I liked and it has turned into a "rebuild" rather than a repair. First up is the transom...




www.microskiff.com


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## Gogittum (May 24, 2020)

I've always been partial to that design, from several manufacturers - I'm a real freak about lots of freeboard. Gonna be nice when done.

One thing, maybe 2 - I have a small/moderate amount of experience with older versions of the low temp aluminum brazing and for the most part it works well.....but I did read a strong caution once about using mapp gas with it. Something about introducing too much oxygen to the weld. Not for certain, but it would be a good idea to check. Propane works fine.

Clean the work area thoroughly and *watch your temperatures very closely* and you should be fine. Aluminum is very touchy and a little too much heat will cause a big hole where you're trying to patch. The difference in melting points of the brazing rod and the aluminum isn't much.

I don't "think" this will be a problem with water, but my experience was with refrigerator evaporators that people had stabbed holes in while trying to defrost them. It did a beautiful - cosmetic - job of repairing, but was porous to freon. Pressurize the unit and put soap bubbles on the repair and the soap would foam. Doubt if that'd be a problem with water - think Gore-Tex - but might be worth checking as well.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

Thanks for the tip. I will check out tinboats.net 




Smackdaddy53 said:


> Not detracting from this forum but you might also reference tinboats.net
> There are a ton of aluminum builds you can pick ideas and techniques from. I have one on there from several years ago.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

devrep said:


> here is our restore of my 67 StarCraft alum skiff. still looks and runs great. may be of some help. pretty long thread though.
> 
> (73) rebuilding my 1st skiff for son and grandson | Dedicated To The Smallest Of Skiffs (microskiff.com)


Very nice old boat. My sons (18-12) are excited to see the boat finished. They will have a long wait.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

Gogittum said:


> I've always been partial to that design, from several manufacturers - I'm a real freak about lots of freeboard. Gonna be nice when done.
> 
> One thing, maybe 2 - I have a small/moderate amount of experience with older versions of the low temp aluminum brazing and for the most part it works well.....but I did read a strong caution once about using mapp gas with it. Something about introducing too much oxygen to the weld. Not for certain, but it would be a good idea to check. Propane works fine.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the tips. So far I only see very tiny holes. I will practice a lot before put a flame to my boat.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

I just spend 4 hours rolling the boat over by myself. I had to put some ratchet straps on a tree to pull the boat on edge. Twice I failed and it tumbled back onto the hull. Luckily I had wooden 2x4s on the concrete to keep it from wreaking the boat. I got it on the third try. I bet the thing weight 650 or 700 lbs. The boat is now bottom side up in my garage, 

I needed to find out if the boat was semi-water tight before I started painting the thing. So far it looks good. Some age related corrosion and some dents but Grumman made their boats much heavier and the aluminum thickness is much thicker than aluminum boats today.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

the best way to check for leaks is with the boat on the trailer, put 6 or 8 inches of water in it and get underneath with a lumber crayon and mark any leaks.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

Got the boat flipped over by myself. It took some ratchet straps and a tree to get it over. Two fails before it finally went over. Now the paint stripping on the outside.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

The progress on the boat. Most of the paint is stripped. Checking for leaks. Then primer.


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

Wish i would have spent the extra day stripping the inside of the hull on my nymph like you did.
Lota work, looking good.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

mro said:


> Wish i would have spent the extra day stripping the inside of the hull on my nymph like you did.
> Lota work, looking good.


Yes, It is a real pain but I am hoping it will payoff in the end. Not really sure but we can hope


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

Tighten loose rivets, then if only pin hole leeks epoxy it both sides.
Total boat and Gluvit were recommended to me but turned out I had no leaks.
I did 5200 a couple hull seams on the inside.
I think that my nymph spent most of it's life in a shed or barn somewhere. 

Looks like your transoms design is a stronger design than mine.
The Sea Nymph according to the plate says max hp 85.
I replaced a 50 merc 2 smoke with a 60 4 stroke and it seems more than enough power.
I don't open it up unless it's glass smooth and then back off a quarter.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

mro said:


> Tighten loose rivets, then if only pin hole leeks epoxy it both sides.
> Total boat and Gluvit were recommended to me but turned out I had no leaks.
> I did 5200 a couple hull seams on the inside.
> I think that my nymph spent most of it's life in a shed or barn somewhere.
> ...


Thanks for the tips. My transom is gone. It was not with the boat when I got it. Only an empty spot. My boat is supposed to handle a 90 hp motor but I don't have one now. The guy who sold me the boat has the 1985 motor but it did not look like it was worth the cost. I want to get a 4 stroke but that is a long ways from now. 

I went over every inch on both sides with a powerful light on one side and dark on the other. I am hoping I could see a pin hole of light if there is a leak. I did find a few holes and I used map gas and some aluminum brazing rods. It took some getting used to but I was able to get it to work. I also put Marine grade JB weld on any questionable rivets and the places that were pitted. I am hoping I got them all. I bought some Tough Stuff paint epoxy primer for a few coats for the outside bottom of the hull. I will them by some Seahawk paint for the final color. I need to save up to get the SeaHawk.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

I started priming the inside of the hull with self etching primer. I hope I found all the leaks.


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

I put about a foot of water in mine to check for leaks.
Bone dry bottom even after three days which surprised me.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

mro said:


> I put about a foot of water in mine to check for leaks.
> Bone dry bottom even after three days which surprised me.










In









Inside painted. Now onto priming the outside of the hull.


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

Very nice.
I put some imitation Seadek on the inside of the hull. 
Softened the "noise" a little.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

mro said:


> Very nice.
> I put some imitation Seadek on the inside of the hull.
> Softened the "noise" a little.


That sounds good. I wonder how long the seadeck will last? I think I will carpet with marine grade because I don't want to do this again for a long time.


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

Degn8er said:


> how long the seadeck will last?


Being on the sides, it shouldn't wear much.

BTW, I was wrong about your boat looking nice.
It looks new.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

mro said:


> Being on the sides, it shouldn't wear much.
> 
> BTW, I was wrong about your boat looking nice.
> It looks new.


That is a very good point about the inside hull sides. I will have to think about how I will deal with it. The sides were carpeted originally because I spent a lot of time getting all the glue off. It would probably be ok to put seadeck on it. 

I am waiting on the AlumaHawk paint to come in the mail. It is supposed to be here today. We will see. When I paint the hull, I will turn the boat back over and start dealing with the inside again. I don't have a transom at all, and decking is next. 

I started paint stripping the console and the passenger side. I am contemplating NOT adding the back in the passenger side because 90 of the time I will be the only person in the boat. It could save room. Do you have an opinion? I would like to hear it. I am torn about staying with the tradition but the paint job is not traditional so I could veer off more. I am not sure yet.


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

For me the jury is still out if I want to keep the original floor plan.
Been think about making it a Center Console.

Something to think about is how the weight is placed.
These are light hulls. In mine I can take 3 adults and gear and the boat performs just fine.
Adding a fourth and I have to have them sit in the middle of the boat on the cooler or the boat will list a little and I'm not going to add trim tabs as most of the time it's just me or 2 others.

If you think you'll like it w/o the left console try it, you can always put it back later.
Only thing at the moment I plan to do is add a pedestal seat in the bow.
Getting old and I can cast just fine sitting down.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

mro said:


> For me the jury is still out if I want to keep the original floor plan.
> Been think about making it a Center Console.
> 
> Something to think about is how the weight is placed.
> ...


Thanks for the ideas. I am not sure yet.

Here is the latest work. Two coats of AlumaHawk Black. Tomorrow the red side strip goes on.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

I added the stripe and now I am trying to figure out if I want to do a center console. I bought the wood for the transom replacement so off to a more pressing problem.


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

Degn8er said:


> trying to figure out if I want to do a center console


I feel your pain 
After you get the deck in you can mock one up with cardboard full size and see how you like it.
If you do, you may need to get new control cables so they are the right length to run under the deck or how you decide to rout them.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

mro said:


> I feel your pain
> After you get the deck in you can mock one up with cardboard full size and see how you like it.
> If you do, you may need to get new control cables so they are the right length to run under the deck or how you decide to rout them.












Transom is glued and shaped at 2.25 inches thick. $150 of wood. I had to add one 1/4 ply to reach the the 2.25. 3/4a ply was not really 3/4. Now the water proofing with bondo resin and the painted with oil based paint. Any other suggestions?


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

Looks good,
Fancy saw horses.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

Degn8er said:


> Transom is glued and shaped at 2.25 inches thick. $150 of wood. I had to add one 1/4 ply to reach the the 2.25. 3/4a ply was not really 3/4. Now the water proofing with bondo resin and the painted with oil based paint. Any other suggestions?


Funny, yea, I used to have a shop until I put a boat in it. All may power tools used to have a place on the horses. I love my JawHorse. If you have not tried one, you haven't lived fully. It is very handy when you are always alone and need an extra hand. Pricey but very useful. 

Transom with two coats of resin and two coats of paint. All ready to go in.


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

Your new transom will outlast the original.
Something I did to mine when I installed the new transom is I put 4200 calking around all the holes in the factory aluminum and the wood transom as well as all the edges.
That done, all the original holes that I planned to use I drilled them before I added the 3/16" aluminum plate to the back side. 
(I've a hand drill that I added an attachment to that makes it easy to drill perpendicular from flat surfaces) 
I saved a few tools/equipment from my cabinet shop. Wood working is another hobby of mine.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

It's in. I had to beat it with a sledge to fit. I will have to trim the top on left and right because I did not account for transom leaning back a few degrees. No problems there. I have the tools for wood but metal not so much. The metal around the back is flush so it is where it is supposed to be. I wished I would have given myself some wiggle room but I realized that after a few taps that I was committed so I had to keep going. I pity the foul that that tries to get this out in the future. I hope for him the transom is very rotted.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

mro said:


> Your new transom will outlast the original.
> Something I did to mine when I installed the new transom is I put 4200 calking around all the holes in the factory aluminum and the wood transom as well as all the edges.
> That done, all the original holes that I planned to use I drilled them before I added the 3/16" aluminum plate to the back side.
> (I've a hand drill that I added an attachment to that makes it easy to drill perpendicular from flat surfaces)
> I saved a few tools/equipment from my cabinet shop. Wood working is another hobby of mine.


Yes, the back aluminum is part of my boat. I am not able to replace it. I reviewed your transom rebuild and you seemed to have the same situation but to bolted another sheet of aluminum on the outside. I am not sure I can afford to do that in my boat. I will have to see if I can find an aluminum supplier near me in Georgia. So I am not sure what to do with the extra holes. I have some 3m 5200 chalking will this work for small seals or do I need to get some 4200. I will have to think on this. Please let me know of any ideas.


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## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

Something to consider before you add a floor is now that you have your transom in place (and hopefully everything on the bottom sealed up...) do one more water test with just a few inches of water to find any leaks you might have missed originally... Leaks are much easier to deal with when the floor is not in place (another of those "ask me how I know" deals... ). My aluminum hull was a 16' riveted Starcraft hull that I got new in 1976, then added a bonefish skiff interior to and fished it hard.... I learned more than I ever wanted to know re-building and/or repairing that hull (on more than one occasion..).


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

lemaymiami said:


> Something to consider before you add a floor is now that you have your transom in place (and hopefully everything on the bottom sealed up...) do one more water test with just a few inches of water to find any leaks you might have missed originally... Leaks are much easier to deal with when the floor is not in place (another of those "ask me how I know" deals... ). My aluminum hull was a 16' riveted Starcraft hull that I got new in 1976, then added a bonefish skiff interior to and fished it hard.... I learned more than I ever wanted to know re-building and/or repairing that hull (on more than one occasion..).


Thanks for reminding me. I have been dreading doing it so I have put it out of my mind. I really hope it does not have any leaks. I will do the test in the next few days.


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

Generally 5200 is used when you never expect to to remove it.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

OK, I water tested the boat. It was nerve racking. I thought it might leak like my spaghetti strainer but I only found one leak. I filled the boat to the blue arrows with water. The leak in the corner to the left of the orange arrow. I will let it sit over night just to make sure. The leak is where someone before me tried to repair it. He was not a very good brassier. It is in an awkward place in the corner next to the edge rivets. I hope I can repair it. I think I will be ok.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

Here is the leak location. The paint has bubbled up since I put water in the boat. The big spot is only some paint that I pealed off. The leak is right where the two round objects in the middle. This is where the old owner did the brazing or welding repair. I know I will have to wire brush the area very well but I am not sure how to repair this. If anyone has any idea, I would love to hear it.


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

Does that spot come in contact with the trailer?


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

mro said:


> Does that spot come in contact with the trailer?


I don't think so but it close to the area where the bunks align. The boat is not on the trailer right now so I am not really sure. It looks to me it is aluminum age corrosion there and someone tried brazing it. I will know better when I drain the water. The photo is shot through the water.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

Here is the photo from the outside. There is one leak but the water trickles in two places along the seam. It is very slow. One drop every 4 seconds.


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## Wiggles (Dec 25, 2020)

That’s nicely done


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

Not personally inspecting the leak/corrosion I couldn't give any advice.
You might want to check with that forum that literally caters to tin boats as this one does to micro skiffs.
I bet they have some experienced hull repairers there.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

mro said:


> Not personally inspecting the leak/corrosion I couldn't give any advice.
> You might want to check with that forum that literally caters to tin boats as this one does to micro skiffs.
> I bet they have some experienced hull repairers there.


OK, thanks. I repaired the problems yesterday by brazing the aluminum with map gas and low temperature brazing rods. It took a while but I kept brazing, grinding and brazing again. My boat has an extra thick aluminum in the hull. I assume it was because it was built it 1985 but this helped me from screwing it up too bad. I think it is good now. I checked it with water in the boat but the real test will be at speed on the lake. The good news is the leak is in a place where I will not be putting a decking over it so I can keep an eye on it. If all else fails, I can hire a professional to weld it.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

Rebuilt the aft splash well. The aluminum was too gone to reuse. It was a real pain to create. There was a lot of angles. I used 3M 4200 (as advised) so the caulking will be a little more flexible. I will be treating the wood with fiberglass resin and then painted with a few coats of oil based epoxy paint. Wow, I am glad that is done.


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

Degn8er said:


> There was a lot of angles.


Cardboard templets are easy to make, especially for straight line cuts.
In the above picture if I wanted to make the plywood piece attached to the transom to also fit the angles of the splash well I would cut a piece of cardboard just like you did the plywood, then I'd cut two smaller pieces of cardboard and tape them to the sides so that I wouldn't have to measure those two angles which may look the same but could be slightly different. 

For what I consider critical cuts I've made templets out of tempered masonite or for thicker templets fiber board.
When practical you can also attach masonite/fiber board to the piece you want to cut and use a router to do the cutting.
I still have a few tools from the 70's when I had a cabinet shop, then from my last business some tools for metal/electrical work as well as many hand tools which make it much easier and faster.
Wish I was as fast and good as I used to be


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

mro said:


> Cardboard templets are easy to make, especially for straight line cuts.
> In the above picture if I wanted to make the plywood piece attached to the transom to also fit the angles of the splash well I would cut a piece of cardboard just like you did the plywood, then I'd cut two smaller pieces of cardboard and tape them to the sides so that I wouldn't have to measure those two angles which may look the same but could be slightly different.
> 
> For what I consider critical cuts I've made templets out of tempered masonite or for thicker templets fiber board.
> ...


Thanks for the ideas. I worked as a carpenter and handyman for 15 years before I got into computer graphics and video. I still have the skills even though I am rusty as my tools. 

The angles are not the visible areas in the photo. The angles are the side bevels that were tough. The metal underneath were angled at 40 degrees and 45 degrees. Even the part next to the transom was about 10 degrees and the top was more than 45 degrees but I could not figure out how to do that so I settled for 45 with some 4200. My thinking is the top part should not get much water. 

I probably should put more metal on the splash well but I am on a strict budget so I am going to leave the well plywood and fiberglass resin the wood then paint it. I may have to replace it in 5 years but I am hoping by then child support payments will be over for one son and the other will be out of college. I will replace it then. 

I put a coat of resin today and I put another coat tonight, then I will paint tomorrow with two coats.


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

4200 is pretty strong as an adhesive.
When I took apart my splash well I had to use a torch.
Sealing the wood like your doing just might make it last the life of the boat.
This little tool, adjustable square comes in handy for a variety of occasions and works good at setting the blade angle on my saws.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

mro said:


> 4200 is pretty strong as an adhesive.
> When I took apart my splash well I had to use a torch.
> Sealing the wood like your doing just might make it last the life of the boat.
> This little tool, adjustable square comes in handy for a variety of occasions and works good at setting the blade angle on my saws.


I wished I had one of those tools.  It is a good point about the longevity of the splash well. The boat is 37 years old so I am giving it a second life. I am 61 and my health is questionable so how much longer am I going to live. The fix should out live me. If not, I like the maintenance part of this so I will fix it again in the future if needed. 

One question. I have been uploading these same photos on 3 other forums and no one comments. I am I too new to reply or is there another reason. I thought I would get more comments from TinBoats.net.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

First coat of of paint on the splash well. I think it will work.


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

Degn8er said:


> One question.


Don't know what's up with tin boat web site, but here a lot of the boats are used in "skinny water" and can be polled well under a foot deep. While an aluminum boat can get "skinny" it's really not well suited for that application.
They stick up higher than a micro skiff and are lighter which makes them a pain in the wind and most just won't pole well, and most think their too noisy.
If I were to move back to Florida, live maybe in Chokoloskee. I'd have a skinny water glass skiff and a small I/O cruiser.
Out here on the left coast (CA) polling skiffs are not practical and even a bass boat would be in danger of getting sunk even in our bays. I'm a little older than you and I can still launch and handle my tin boats by myself. At least for now.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

Center console installed and mostly painted. I am happy with how sturdy it stands. I tied it t the front platform framing to make some storage and then tied it to the bottom ribs with stainless steal bolts. I was worried that it would vibrate because the console it made of thin aluminum sheeting but I am not worried about that now.


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

That's a really nice CC, think I'm getting jealous 
What are you doing for steering?


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

mro said:


> That's a really nice CC, think I'm getting jealous
> What are you doing for steering?


I have the old steering cable and I am planning on re-using it. I am not sure if it will work but we will see.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

I installed the windshield which was a task. The older layout was on the right so I had to cannibalize the left and right windshield to make something work. It is rock solid now.


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

Degn8er said:


> cannibalize the left and right


If I decide to turn mine into a CC I thought I'd make it out of 3/8" or 1/2" marine ply.
Never thought about cannibalizing the left/right consoles which might work.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

mro said:


> If I decide to turn mine into a CC I thought I'd make it out of 3/8" or 1/2" marine ply.
> Never thought about cannibalizing the left/right consoles which might work.


I am not sure if it will work either but I am doing it anyway. I made the little risers out of a couple of layers of scrap plywood. I am not overly heavy but my best friend is so I want to make sure he does not grab the console and knock it over. That would be a very bad day on the lake. I doing my best to make it over engineered.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

I got a little creative with the empty space on each side of the aluminum rails where the old seats were mounted. I built these handles/rod holder mounts out of oak to cover the space. I always like to kill as many birds with one stone. I call it my "OH SHIT" fishing handles. The floor neat the space is starting to move up hill in this area so I am sure they will come in handy. I am happy with them both. I used my small Piranha CNC to cut the star shaped holes.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

I have a question: At this point, I don't have a motor. My boat can handle a 90 hp motor but I am probably only going to get a 70 hp. I rebuilt my transom and it called for a 2 and 1/4 inch thickness. I have a piece of 1/4 aluminum that I thought I would use to add onto the transom to support the motor better. If I add the plating this will add another 1/2 of thickness to the transom. It will be a total of 2 and 3/4s thick. Does a 70 hp motor have enough room in the mount on the outboard for this thickness?


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

I don't think it will be a problem but you should double check as it might be close.
My 05 Mercury 60 could just handle 2 3/4".
I also raised mine an 1 1/2".

Find the model you want and then get the mounting instructions from the engines manufacturer.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

I got the foam in today. A terrible job in the 95 degree heat. Lots of cussing. Pink particles every where and in everything. The things clogged my belt sander twice. I am so glad most of it is done. I only have a little bit more in the front to do. I am not sure how I am going to do it so I am going to wait until I get the floor boards. I may get it tomorrow. I am planning on something different. I am going to floor the deck with cedar. I will have been researching the wood and I found that ship wrights have used cedar for a hundred years. I plan on sealing the wood on both sides with Spar Urethane and screwing the deck down. If it does not work I will just unscrew the cedar and replaced it with plywood. I was a carpenter for many years and I am itching to do more wood work instead of all this metal. It is probably a dumb idea but it will look great for a while.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

mro said:


> I don't think it will be a problem but you should double check as it might be close.
> My 05 Mercury 60 could just handle 2 3/4".
> I also raised mine an 1 1/2".
> 
> Find the model you want and then get the mounting instructions from the engines manufacturer.


Thanks, I am glad your motor will handle it. I did not think it was a problem. I can always take it off if it is but it is good to have an educated guess on it.


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

Wonder if that foam could be cut/shaped with something like a bread knife?
I made a "hot wire" cutter for the Styrofoam I used which worked great.
Don't know if it would work with what your using.

Wood decks and sand...
Refinish every couple years.
Look awesome thought.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

mro said:


> Wonder if that foam could be cut/shaped with something like a bread knife?
> I made a "hot wire" cutter for the Styrofoam I used which worked great.
> Don't know if it would work with what your using.
> 
> ...


Thanks for the tips. I got the last of the XPS foam in glued it in with great stuff low expansion foam. I put two full 4x8 sheets of 2 inch thick boards R10 in total in the boat. I am pretty sure it will not sink to the bottom but I don't really know for sure. Lake Lanier can be 160 feet deep so I really don't want it to sink to that depth. 

I bought the cedar planks and the spar urethane yesterday. I need to figure out where the steering cables will go. Can they go own the center or do I need to route them to the side? Does anyone know?


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

The problem with changing where the location of the steering is having the proper cable length.
To long they can be in the way or just unsightly, to short they just don't work.

Someone else might comment about running the cables under the deck, but I think it's OK as long as the sheath covering the cables is in good condition (add protection where they might "chaff" ).
If you get just one spot where water can get in it's only a mater of time before they will fail.

This is a table I made from some left over materials back in the 70's.
The two round things in the picture are wood plugs I made to cover the 1 1/2" #10 wood screws I used to attach the top to the legs. 

You'll be using stainless steel sheet metal screws (flat heads ?) to attach the planks to the hull.
Use the plugs if you want to hide the screws.
If you don't have them get the proper size drill attachment that will drill the screw hole and the pilot hole at the same time. 
You can get various size plug cutters to fit a variety of screw sizes.
Don't glue the plugs in place as you may want to remove them someday to remove/replace a board.
The plug cutter fits into a drill, make your plugs from a piece of scrap of the material your using.
After you've screwed the planks down, just tap in the plug. The part of the plug sticking up above the plank you can remove with a sharp chisel then sand to be flush with the deck. If you ever want to remove one just drill a small hole in the center of the plug, insert a screw and lift/pry the plug out. 

If you already know about this.... never mind


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

mro said:


> The problem with changing where the location of the steering is having the proper cable length.
> To long they can be in the way or just unsightly, to short they just don't work.
> 
> Someone else might comment about running the cables under the deck, but I think it's OK as long as the sheath covering the cables is in good condition (add protection where they might "chaff" ).
> ...


Thanks, I can use all the help that I can get. I bought 200 #10 iodized black Truss head self tapping stainless steel screws. The heads are slightly rounded so I will counter sink them a little. I don't think I will be covering the heads up with anything. I am hoping they will look fine with out it. The boat is only a fishing boat. I keep telling myself  I have a feeling I will need to pull the boards up periodically.

I have two disadvantages with this build. One I have not done this before. Two all the controls, wiring and most of the insides of the boat were torn out before I bought the boat. So I don't really know how to put it back together. I thought it was a good thing that a lot of the really bad stuff was already done but now I am wishing it wasn't the case. I pulled the steering cable out today and it looks way to short. I will need to replace it. I think the throttle and the wiring is long enough but it does looks in bad shape. The actual throttle handle is completely missing so I will have to probably get a new one of those as well. My brothers words are haunting me right now. Boats are a money pit


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

I'd hook up the cables to the motor, then run them as far as they reach, then measure what you'll need. The cables don't like sharp bends so keep that in mind plus the steering cables my need to enter the splash well from the side.
They aren't terribly expensive.
As a last resort you can go with hydraulic steering. The hose can bend a little easer than the cables but can also do up to 90 degree bends using hydraulic fittings. looking at around $500.00 for a kit.

Also all your wiring, start with determining where your going to place the battery (s), fuse block, switches, pumps, lights etc.. It might be that you would like to install pvc conduit under the deck for some of the wires or run them on the side of a rib under the deck.

My wiring job works just fine... but I don't like it and have gotten all new switch/fuse holders and wiring.
I'm also going to wire one of the bilge pumps with a float as it sits at the lowest point in the hull under a hatch.



Degn8er said:


> Boats are a money pit


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

[/QUOTE]


mro said:


> I'd hook up the cables to the motor, then run them as far as they reach, then measure what you'll need. The cables don't like sharp bends so keep that in mind plus the steering cables my need to enter the splash well from the side.
> They aren't terribly expensive.
> As a last resort you can go with hydraulic steering. The hose can bend a little easer than the cables but can also do up to 90 degree bends using hydraulic fittings. looking at around $500.00 for a kit.
> 
> ...


OK thanks, it will be awhile before I get there. I guess I am glad the deck will be able to be removed. I think the steering and other stuff was under the rails and came out of these holes next to the splash well? I am not sure this stuff is inside my pay grade. I may need to hire professionals. 

I am pretty discouraged right now. I am also refurbing the trailer. I did some tests with *muriatic* acid on the rusty parts and it worked great on all the bolts and U brackets. So I added some more things in the acid but some of this stuff was aluminum. I melted some 1/4 thick aluminum brackets to nubs before I noticed the rapid bubbling and hissing sounds. Lesson learned. No aluminum in acid. I luckily have a large sheet of 1/4 aluminum I was going to use for the motor mount. I am hoping I can remake the melted part and the motor mount bracket.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

I painted the foam with some acrylic latex paint today. I'm trying to protect the foam from water and mildew. It may be over kill but I had the paint so why not. The deck goes in tomorrow or the next day. This boat might be the nicest looking lawn ornament but I am trudging forward hoping I will get the money to finish it. I heard this from a YouTube video. Money can't buy you happiness but it can buy you a boat.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

Well, I pulled the trigger and started putting down the cedar decking. I think it will look good. We will see if it will be functional.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

It looks like I will be buying new controls and new steering assembly for my boat. Does anyone have any suggestions on what name brand that would fit. I am changing to a center console so this changes things. I checked on amazon and most of the controls are pretty generic. I will probably get a Mercury 70hp motor so do I need to get a Mercury controller or will any do? Please let me know of any suggestions.


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

Are you going to use a side mount?

I'd get the motor first. 
I got lucky and the guy I bought the motor from gave me the throttle control.
Don't know what year the wiring/cables changed, is why I suggest getting the motor first so you know that they will fit your motor.
I might still have the Mercury throttle control that came on my boat but don't know the condition or if it would do you any good, then there's shipping. If you were local I'd just give it to you.

You can check craigslist (boat parts) and you might find a good deal. That's where I found my motor.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

mro said:


> Are you going to use a side mount?
> 
> I'd get the motor first.
> I got lucky and the guy I bought the motor from gave me the throttle control.
> ...


I think I am going to go with top mount because of the change to center console. I will have to move some dials around but I think the controls will get in the way on the side. I have the old controls but it is rusty, no key and no handle. I appreciate the offer but I think I will go with new. I just don’t know much about them.

I would like to buy a Yamaha or Suzuki but in my area, Bass Pro Shop is king and they only carry mercury. I need to go to the store but I hate sales people. Craig’s list is cool but right now everything is gone in hours and high prices. 2 stokes are more plentiful but 4 strokes are gone.

I


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

To bad there's no dealers close enough to "commute" to.
My Merc 60 is my first 4 stroke outboard. I like not having to run it out of gas every time I finish a trip.
It's been awhile since I was looking at new motors. (was before the "supply problem")
Then there's the hassle that Mercury only want dealers to install the motor.



Degn8er said:


> sales people


Doesn't hurt to talk to them.
They might be able to give you a package deal where they mount the motor and all the controls.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

mro said:


> To bad there's no dealers close enough to "commute" to.
> My Merc 60 is my first 4 stroke outboard. I like not having to run it out of gas every time I finish a trip.
> It's been awhile since I was looking at new motors. (was before the "supply problem")
> Then there's the hassle that Mercury only want dealers to install the motor.
> ...


Do you like your mercury overall. Decent gas mileage. I heard they are quieter and less smokey. I don’t really like mercury but I am judging from when I was a kid and they were all two stokes. I hear they are a much better brand now. 

When I was a kid, I just wanted to go fishing with my Dad and we could never get the mercury running right.

I am a long way from getting a motor but I have to figure out where the cables should go under the floor and along the side. My gunnels are open now so I need to make or buy a tunnel for the cabling.


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

I originally was looking at Yamaha and Tohatsu (40 HP new).
The 60 merc was hard to pass up for the price I paid and it had only 113 hours on it.
The longest it's sat is 3 months and fired right up and hasn't had any problems in the 160 hrs I've put on it.
More motor than my tin boat needs. I still haven't got around to putting a GPS on the boat as I'm determined to rewire everything which just gets put off so don't know how fast it goes but I've only opened wide open once, which it goes faster than I want or need. Hit a wave cross wise at speed in these boats can toss you around (hulls to flat). Cruses just fine around 25/30 mph. Goes to plane almost immediately.




Degn8er said:


> gunnels are open now so I need to make or buy a tunnel for the cabling


You can space out some 1/4-20 SS bolts along the (*inside of the*) gunnel, with bolt length an inch short of the width of the gunnel. 
(Edited above, bold text, 8/19/22)

Put a piece of rubber hose over the bolts and double nut fender washers on the end of the bolt.. Cable ties around the bolt and cable or wires that you run so they don't bounce around.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

The deck is coming around. Most of the decking is cut but it is drying. The deck is looking good to me. The urethane is pretty glossy here but it will turn to a satin finish after it dries. I only need to buy a few more boards of wood for the small front deck. I decked the front with 3/4 ply and painted it black but I will be putting a cedar decking on top to match everything. I then will be screwing the decking down. I ordered another bag of screws to make sure I have enough. Each board should get 10 screws if it was done right. I thought about putting in fewer but I want to make sure it will stay put.


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

Degn8er said:


> The deck is looking good to me.


ME too.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

Decking is in. I ran out of screws but more delivered today by Amazon. I probably did not order enough. Math is not may best subject. I am happy with the decking. Very little flex. The floor slopes slightly towards the front but I don't think it will be a problem. I plan on tweaking it a little here and there but I think it will work for my lifetime.


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

I have an account with this company for fasteners.





__





Product Catalog - Bolt Depot







www.boltdepot.com


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

mro said:


> I have an account with this company for fasteners.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


You must need a lot of fasteners to have an account 

Casting deck and front storage done.


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

Degn8er said:


> Casting deck and front storage done.


Looking good.
Are you going to put any trim along the edges?

Slippery when wet? <use to be my sign 



Degn8er said:


> need a lot of fasteners


Back when I had my shop I had an account from a fastener company whose sales rep came by once a month.
If the shop/parts manager was out and I was out too he could spend $50.00 or more if we were out of something.
I stocked machine screws/nuts/bolts and miscellaneous fasteners. Far outweigh the cost of having to send someone to a hardware store. Years later I needed to cut costs and my secretary came up with this place and with a minimum order for free freight they were about 40% cheaper at the time. Any time I need $25.00 worth of fasteners or more I still order from them. I spent $100.00+ on fasteners on my Nymph rebuild. Stainless steel is not cheap.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

mro said:


> Looking good.
> Are you going to put any trim along the edges?
> 
> Slippery when wet? <use to be my sign
> ...


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

I added EVA foam to the sides today. I like how it looks but it is the cheap stuff and the sticky stuff does not seem very good. We will see how long the foam lasts. I think it will dampen the noise some.


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## Gogittum (May 24, 2020)

Well, it looks like you've already got the wiring and all done, so I'm a day late and a dollar short, but if you plan on re-doing at any time, make sure to over-size the wiring conduit - make it larger than you think you'll need.

My 16 ft Glen L homebuilt (not by me) had a conduit for wiring under the floor and I wanted to add a Garmin fish finder/depth sounder. The plug wouldn't fit thru the conduit with the wiring in place, so I had to pull all the wiring, then pull the transducer plug thru, then re-wire the whole thing.

Wasn't especially difficult, but very tedious and time consuming. Also, instead of 90º bends, use electrician's "sweeps" for the turns. They give a much larger radius and make it much easier to pull wiring thru.

Rule of thumb is, no more than 2 turns per run. More than that and even with sweeps, there'll be so much friction you won't be able to pull the wiring.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

Gogittum said:


> Well, it looks like you've already got the wiring and all done, so I'm a day late and a dollar short, but if you plan on re-doing at any time, make sure to over-size the wiring conduit - make it larger than you think you'll need.
> 
> My 16 ft Glen L homebuilt (not by me) had a conduit for wiring under the floor and I wanted to add a Garmin fish finder/depth sounder. The plug wouldn't fit thru the conduit with the wiring in place, so I had to pull all the wiring, then pull the transducer plug thru, then re-wire the whole thing.
> 
> ...


I appreciate the information. No, I have not run the wiring or the controls yet. The gunnels are hollow on both sides all the way to the back and I also have a hollow trough down the center under the decking that I could run cabling and wiring. I think the center area was for the live well but I am not installing it back in the boat.

I feel very unqualified installing these things so I am hoping I can an expert to do it. I am think I will buy a new motor and maybe they will hook me up with an installer.

i am refurbishing the trailer so when it is repaired, I plan on hauling the boat and trailer down to the marina to talk with the experts. It will be a scary thing because I don’t know what I am doing.


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## Gogittum (May 24, 2020)

Wiring isn't rocket science but it can certainly be confusing. It may help to think of it like a water hose. You need a source, (the faucet) a conductor (the hose) and a switch. (the nozzle) Current flows thru wire just as water thru the hose.

Try starting out with simpler connections and be sure to use tinned copper wire. For connectors, I like the marine grade with glue lined heat shrink covers. A kit will get you started, but you'll run out of some fairly quickly. Finding bulk individual connectors is a PIA - they all want to sell the kits - but can be done - I have 100 packs now of the most frequently used. I paid about ~$15 per 100.

Forget the little stamped metal crimping tools. Mine is a heavy duty cast unit that has seen heavy use for almost 40 years now. When I crimp a connection, I put both hands and my shoulders into it and mash that sucker, then give a solid tug to make sure.

To shrink the insulator, a match or lighter will work, but give uneven results. I use a hot air gun and will never go back. Much nicer result and much more consistent.

Pick something simple with room to work, like a bilge pump or GPS power supply. Give a little excess at each end - you don't want the connection to be under constant strain in an environment where there'll be pounding and banging. 

Bundling the wires is good, but don't bundle them tightly. Just tighten the zip ties enuf to hold things in position but not tightly together.....give the wires some breathing room. Usually not a problem, but heat build up can sometimes be a factor that can have you tearing your hair out.

Many or most like to fuse the circuits and protection IS a necessity, but I hate fuses. I use marine grade circuit breakers. They aren't all that expensive and are MUCH easier to troubleshoot. I've heard some say they're slow to react. I say, "bullshit." Overload them and they pop.

I'm a licensed pilot and I've built a small, 2 seat plane and in all aircraft I've flown, all had circuit breakers.....and all FAA approved.

As you gain confidence, work into the instruments and under the panel. If you're still unsure, then go to a pro. Sounds like you have a good attitude and an open mind, so give 'er a go and see how you do.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

Gogittum said:


> Wiring isn't rocket science but it can certainly be confusing. It may help to think of it like a water hose. You need a source, (the faucet) a conductor (the hose) and a switch. (the nozzle) Current flows thru wire just as water thru the hose.
> 
> Try starting out with simpler connections and be sure to use tinned copper wire. For connectors, I like the marine grade with glue lined heat shrink covers. A kit will get you started, but you'll run out of some fairly quickly. Finding bulk individual connectors is a PIA - they all want to sell the kits - but can be done - I have 100 packs now of the most frequently used. I paid about ~$15 per 100.
> 
> ...


Wow, that is a lot. I might try wiring the bilge. I did not take my boat apart so I don't really know how to put it back together and this is my first owned boat. Below is the final two holes in my aft of my boat. I am assuming the larger hole is for the bulkhead that I am holding in the next photo. My boat came with a live well but I am not putting it back in. My question is which hole is for the bilge pump? How do I plug the other hole? I assume I can buy a plug but I don't know what to look for on Amazon. If you know, please let me know. 

Another note is I am redoing my trailer as well and behind the bulkhead photo is one of my finders for the trailer. Paint is cheap and I got a lot of time on my hands because of Covid19 so I am keeping myself occupied.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

I got a pedestal seat in today. I was testing out the front deck to see if this will fit. I think it will work. I will be ordering one more pedestal and a few lower ones for the back. One step closer.


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

Degn8er said:


> I am assuming the


You want the bilge pump to drain well above the water line. Mine empty about 3 inches from the top of the gunnel.

One of the holes in your pic is for a plug that you can remove when the boats out of the water or... I've gotten water in the boat while using it (heavy rain and once forgot to put the plug in before launching and conditions were smooth enough that I could drain the boat pulling the plug which is above the water with the boat on a plane. Don't know if that's recommended though.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

mro said:


> You want the bilge pump to drain well above the water line. Mine empty about 3 inches from the top of the gunnel.
> 
> One of the holes in your pic is for a plug that you can remove when the boats out of the water or... I've gotten water in the boat while using it (heavy rain and once forgot to put the plug in before launching and conditions were smooth enough that I could drain the boat pulling the plug which is above the water with the boat on a plane. Don't know if that's recommended though.


I understand that it is hard to see from the picture. I have another hole that is on the other side that has the normal removable drain plug. Do some boats have two drain plugs?


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

None of mine have had more than one.
Have you tried searching for manuals/schematics etc for your boat?
If those holes are near where the live well was could be their related.
Problem to me is having a drain below the water line as it could allow water to flow in.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

I think I figured it out. I found the bilge outlet. I had painted over it and it is high near the top of the gunnel. I am grateful for the help locating it. Black on black on a hole is easy to miss 

The large hole is livewell out. Small one is livewell in. Not everybody does it this way but a found a random boat with it like this. Either way I will need to figure out how to plug them.

I have only found minimal info on my boat. No plan of diagrams. Length, width and max motor size.


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

Were you going to cover the transom with a new piece of aluminum?
I did that partly because there were some holes that I was not going to be using, plus I tend to over think things


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

mro said:


> Were you going to cover the transom with a new piece of aluminum?
> I did that partly because there were some holes that I was not going to be using, plus I tend to over think things


I saw that you did that on your build but I am not going to do it. My aft section where the transom goes is an integral part of the boat. There might be a thousand rivets holding it on. It would have to be welded on top or torched cut out and I don't have the budget for that. I filled all the holes with stainless bolts or aluminum rivets with some 5200 as dressing. The final large holes are shown in the previous photos and 4 holes where I think an aluminum motor plate goes. I wanted to put this on but I am afraid that my transom will be to thick. My transom is 2.5 inches thick now and the aluminum is 1/4 thick and I was going sandwich two pieces together. I don't have a motor get so can't measure it. I think you said it would be ok but I have been hesitant.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

I got a good deal on a standing used flip chair but advertised like new. I took a chance and it is like new. I am 6 feet tall so I needed to raise the chair higher even though my base adjusts from 13 to 19 inches. I am trying to figure out where to put it. I will be finishing the base like the other wood on the boat. The base is lined with 2x4s and 4x4s between so I have a lot of meat to screw the base into and then lined with cedar. I am happy with the chair but it is pretty high end for a fishing boat. OH well, rookies.

UP








DOWN


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

New, that seat could set you back $250.00.
I'm thinking of putting a pedestal mount on the bow for a bicycle type seat so I can sit and still cast my fly rods and run the trolling motor with the foot control.

Most places that sell aluminum sheet in my area make you pay for a "full sheet" plus charge for making any cuts.
There are a lot of companies that sell metal products and also buy up for resale metals from companies going out of business or at auctions. I got my piece for about half price and have enough left over for other projects.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

mro said:


> I'm thinking of putting a pedestal mount on the bow for a bicycle type seat so I can sit and still cast my fly rods and run the trolling motor with the foot control.


That sounds good. I have a fly rod but I have not heard of salt water fly fishing in California. I use my fly rod for freshwater. I will have to put the fly rod in the boat and blow the dust off of it.

I mounted the helm today. I did not match the stain well but I still like it. It is solidly mounted with 3 inch stainless screws into the under the floor rigs and though the wooden deck. I think it will be great if I ever get boat floating.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

Can anyone tell me what the chains are for on the sides of the trailer?


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

Repainted the trailer. Bought new tires and wheel bearings but repainted the wheels and lugs. Bought a new trailer jack and winch. Rewired the trailer with new lights but they will not work. I have troubleshoot the wiring, but I am tired.


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

Your whole rig is looking brand new...


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

At last, I got the boat out of the garage. I still have a long way to go but this is a major step. I am talking with a few people on a motor. It needs all the electrical, bilge, batteries, fuel tank, motor, touch up paint, and much more before it goes out on the water.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)




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## Nate38 (4 mo ago)

Very nice
Seadek.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

I bought a motor. A 2022 Suzuki 70 hp. I think I lost my mind, but I hear boats can do that to a guy. I don’t have any steering so I am wondering if anyone has a suggestion for hydraulics. I am looking at baystar but it is very expensive. Is there any good cheaper steering?


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

Only experience I've with hydraulic steering is on a 26' Carver.
Very nice and the only practical solution for a boat that size, dual controls/flying bridge.
On my tin boat I'm still using the cables that came with it.
Eventually will get around to replacing them with shorter cables better suited to how I'll route them.
Will be just a cosmetic "fix".


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

BTW,
if I ran across a deal for one,
I'd jump on it...


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

My boat is finally ready for the motor. I added the 1/4 inch aluminum because the motor looks like it will accommodate the extra thickness. I tried to buy the motor alone but the place I bought it from said they would not install it without controls. They gave me some story that Suzuki required control installs with the their motor. I think it was a little fishy, but I agreed. I did talk them out of installing the steering package. It was going to cost me $2500 extra with that install. I am over my head in costs. I will be ok but I need to stretch out the time for purchases. I will have to drop off my boat for a few days. The place is in Perry Georgia which is a 2 hour drive from my house. I am excited but the sticker shock is eating at me a little. Motors are so expensive.


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

New outboard? 

If your going to fish in the salt sometimes, it's good to know that you've a good chance of years without needing to be towed in. I was planning on getting a new 40 hp , but ran across a good deal on the 60 I have. Only 113 hours on it. Didn't believe it at first, but got the numbers off the motor when I went to look at it and see it run. Talked to a few outboard places and they said they didn't see how the motors computer cold be screwed with. I also was going to put a 15 hp kicker on it, but pretty sure I would then need trim tabs.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

mro said:


> New outboard?
> 
> If your going to fish in the salt sometimes, it's good to know that you've a good chance of years without needing to be towed in. I was planning on getting a new 40 hp , but ran across a good deal on the 60 I have. Only 113 hours on it. Didn't believe it at first, but got the numbers off the motor when I went to look at it and see it run. Talked to a few outboard places and they said they didn't see how the motors computer cold be screwed with. I also was going to put a 15 hp kicker on it, but pretty sure I would then need trim tabs.


Yes, I would have gone with that motor. I talked with Bass Pro Shop and they sell most of the motors in my area. Only Mercury’s. He told me it was a 6 to 9 month wait for bigger motors.

I found this place in Perry Georgia with mercury and Suzuki motors. My boat could handle a 90 hp but I went with 70 hp. I think it will be ok because in 1985 the motors weren’t as powerful. The Suzuki 70 hp and 90 hp are the same motor but the computers are different. They are the same weight and size. The 70 should get a little better gas mileage. The 2022 Suzuki are 4 stroke and fuel injected. It should be trouble free for years to come.

No salt water for my boat. 4 hour drive for me to nearest saltwater. Lake Lanier is a giant lake though. I bet when the wind blows hard it should get big waves though.


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## fishnpreacher (Jul 28, 2018)

Degn8er said:


> No salt water for my boat. 4 hour drive for me to nearest saltwater. Lake Lanier is a giant lake though. I bet when the wind blows hard it should get big waves though.


Lake Lanier can get 2ft chop with all the pleasure boaters and jet skis running around. That's on a good weekend!
I fished a striper tournament several years ago......never again!


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

fishnpreacher said:


> Lake Lanier can get 2ft chop with all the pleasure boaters and jet skis running around. That's on a good weekend!
> I fished a striper tournament several years ago......never again!


I don't know much about striper fishing in Lanier. I think I heard that you fish for them in winter time. 2 foot chop and ice cold weather would not be a fun day of fishing.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

mro said:


> If your going to fish in the salt sometimes, it's good to know that you've a good chance of years without needing to be towed in.


Salt water would be a whole different animal to deal with. If my memory serves me correctly, the northern California sea water is always cold not matter what time of year. When I was a teenage, I would go scuba diving with wet suits in CA and I would still come out of the water with shattering teeth. The salt water would eat everything if you did not spray off all the equipment with fresh water on every trip.


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

If your in a river or a lake you don't have to worry that your going to be blown out to sea or like in Nor Cal or the coast north of Florida windup on a rock if your motor stops working.

Considering how nice you've made your boat look, a new motor fits in.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

I dropped off the boat to get the motor installed. I will pick it up on Monday. I could not afford to have them install the steering though. I did scrap up enough money to buy a new hydraulic kit made by hydrodrive. It is an Italian company. It arrived at my home yesterday mailed from Hungry. The instructions are surprisedly through with colored pictures and in English. Now, I need to get the boat back at my house to see if I can install it myself. I watch a bunch of instructional videos and it does not look too hard, but we will see.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

I got the new motor today. 2022 Suzuki DF70ATL. The boat mechanic installed the new controls which I think turned out pretty well. I now need to install the Hydrodrive hydraulic steering. I received it in the mail about a week ago and I have been itching to do more work on the boat. I also bought a new steering wheel while I was changing it all out. I will have to buy a new battery and a fuel tank. If anyone has any suggestions, I would like to hear it.


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

Lookin good.

What type of fuel tank you looking for.
I've an 18 gallon aluminum I'm not using.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

mro said:


> Lookin good.
> 
> What type of fuel tank you looking for.
> I've an 18 gallon aluminum I'm not using.


Thanks, but I don't have a lot of room so I will need a much small fuel tank. I am looking at some low-profile tanks. I bought two new batteries. 

My Suzuki manual said I needed a lead acid battery with 650 cranking amps so I found one and I also bought an AGM battery deep cycle. They are made by Duracell and they are Group 24m. I am hoping these will work.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

Here is my wiring diagram of my boat. I don't have any wiring at all so all of this is new. I also have no idea how to wire things. This is my best guess. Can anyone see any problems with this diagram? Thanks for the help.


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

You don't have to have a separate battery for the motor and lights etc if the motor does not cause interference with your fish finder. Also you might think about a backup bilge pump which you can wire direct to the battery with an in-line fuse. I'm not paranoid much  but I've two bilge pumps wired and a third with wire leads with alligator clips if all else fails.
My marine radio is also wired direct to a battery with an inline fuse
An AGM should be ok for the motor too. I've use one for my 60 merc.

The second battery could come in handy if one fails and you need to get the motor started though.

AGM means absorbent glass mat and refers to the fine glass fiber separator between the positive and negative plates that helps absorb all the battery acid. AGM Batteries are advanced lead-acid batteries.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

mro said:


> You don't have to have a separate battery for the motor and lights etc if the motor does not cause interference with your fish finder. Also you might think about a backup bilge pump which you can wire direct to the battery with an in-line fuse. I'm not paranoid much  but I've two bilge pumps wired and a third with wire leads with alligator clips if all else fails.
> My marine radio is also wired direct to a battery with an inline fuse
> An AGM should be ok for the motor too. I've use one for my 60 merc.
> 
> ...


thanks for your help.

My manual for the Suzuki specifically asks for a lead acid battery at 650 amps. I don’t want to mess around because I will be paying for my motor for the next 5 years. 

I will probably get an extra bilge pump. I think I would be more paranoid if I was under the golden gate floating in freezing cold water in the fog. 

i made some adjustments to my plans. I have not added the extra bilge yet.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)




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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

Something I thought about doing is putting led lights under the gunnel on my tin boat.
I've got the lights, just never got around to installing em.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

I added the onboard battery charger, extra bilge, fuse box, and interior strip lights. Do you see anything wrong with this.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

I am plodding through the wiring. My brain hurts. I am about half way through. I will be so glad when it is over


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

I think the boat is finished. I have a few minor things but it floats. I know some people will wonder about the motor cover but it is made to protect the motor and has vents for the motors intakes. Thanks for all the help over the last 4 months. I appreciated the comments and suggestions.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

Here is the final layout I made for the boat. It is a video so it will not be able to upload it here



https://www.flickr.com/gp/[email protected]/196R09R000



Here is the photo and video log of the project.









1985 Grumman 16'


Started this build on June 5th, 2022. Ended November 27, 2022




www.flickr.com


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

Your ready to go catch some...


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

mro said:


> Your ready to go catch some...


Yes, I saw birds hitting the water but I did not know what bait fish was getting eaten. I will need to research a little on the lake. I threw a few different lures but no bites. The wind was howling about 20 miles an hour so it was hard to cast. 

I also put my fly rod in my rack on the boat. I will have to try it again. It’s a cheap one but I took a lesson with an old timer that pass on a few years ago. He taught me a few things but I have a lot to learn.


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

You might look into the new "soft plastic baits". Seems that they are very popular and paired with a quality spinning rod and braid line can cast light jig hooks taking spinning to a new level.


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## Degn8er (7 mo ago)

mro said:


> You might look into the new "soft plastic baits". Seems that they are very popular and paired with a quality spinning rod and braid line can cast light jig hooks taking spinning to a new level.


I got a question about where a good place to buy Suzuki parts. I need to do my first month maintenance on the engine and a lot of the places are sold out. I need oil, oil filter and gear lube. 

Do you still have a metal fuel tank for sale? Mine is plastic and it sucks.


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

You should stock a maintenance kit for your motor.
Owners guide will have the hourly intervals and what should be done.

Get the part number of your filter and then do a google search.
There are specifications for oil/lube used for outboards, check these and you can get them from several different manufacturers.

I'm using this brand of plastic fuel tanks along with a fuel/water separator.






US-EPA Compliant - Moeller Marine







www.moellermarine.com


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