# Covering up Chase / Rigging Tube Hole



## Marshfly (Nov 4, 2012)

What's behind that bulkhead? Maybe you could cut through the deck right behind it into the chase tube and then glass that closed. You got a pic of the whole area from further away?


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## TwoKids (Jan 2, 2013)

Here are a couple pics to put it in perspective better.  That tube is essentially lower than the bilge area which is why I'd like to dry it in, otherwise the water just puddles up and sits in there.  Really trying to keep this deal simple as possible. The yellow piece of paper in the first pic would be some type of material with a hole in the top. I hear starboard and 5200 don't play well so I'm thinking using some type of caulk and just caulk the edges down to the deck and caulk up the small hole the wire would come out to dry it in.  I figure that should be easy enough to cut out when I need to access it again. I'd probably close up the hole in the coffin box as well.

So shoud I use starboard and caulk (type?) -or- use some other material and 5200 -or- some other design all together.

Any suggestions would be much appreciated.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

I don't think you will ever be able to get a totally dry seal with wires.

If you make a 4" fiberglass tube you could epoxy that in and then run the wires through it. Water would have to be deeper than 4" before any water could get in. If you taper the tube maybe you could use some silicone to close it up.


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## Dillusion (May 21, 2012)

The shadow cast rigging tube locations in the back deck there sucks. It's no fault of Ankona, it's just the only place they could really put it. Water ALWAYS gets in there and sits in the tube...

I would recommend a rigging boot with 5200 to seal the bottom. It will essentially raise the seal 4-5" off the floor:

http://www.thmarine.com/products/Rigging-Accessories/Motorwell-to-Engine-Rigging/Cable-Boot


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## TwoKids (Jan 2, 2013)

Matty/Duck - both great ideas but those risers would possibly interfere with my cooler when it is in place, I'll have to check on that. Unfortunately I have yet to get into glass work, guess I need to learn that art one of these days. Whether I go riser or not I need to try to dry it in cause the kids get crazy with the hose back there. Plus I can see rain driven water slamming off the front top face of the cooler and dripping right down any open hole below it. Thanks for the ideas they give me something more to brainstorm with.


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## Marshfly (Nov 4, 2012)

F that. If the chase tube interferes with the ankona designed cooler hole ask them how to make it work. If they can't make it work, ask them to fix it. 

I can't understand how so many people allow skiff builders to just build crap that doesn't work and eat the poor  design. You don't see this crap from Maverick, hells bay, any mainstream boat builder, etc.


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## TwoKids (Jan 2, 2013)

> F that. If the chase tube interferes with the ankona designed cooler hole ask them how to make it work. If they can't make it work, ask them to fix it.
> 
> I can't understand how so many people allow skiff builders to just build crap that doesn't work and eat the poor  design. You don't see this crap from Maverick, hells bay, any mainstream boat builder, etc.


I have no doubt Mel would do whatever was asked of him wrt skiff mods, fixes or whatever, thats just the type of guy he is. He did a fine job installing that tube where it is given the constraints he had to deal with. Had I wanted to spend more $ for a flawless design I'm sure he would have gladly put the time in it and delivered. I'll take the 80% fix and tinker to finish it off my way to save a few bucks. No boat is 100% perfect but the value in these Ankona's is second to none, I'd imagine I could by 3 shadowcasts for the price of 1 hellsbay, thus managing expectations is required.

Whether the design of this tube is good or bad, IMHO I think small design flaws are a result of offering an infinite number of custom skiff options and sometimes certain customizations just don't jive together.


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## Gramps (Nov 1, 2007)

May be silly or too simple but why not just use a small piece of cylindrical solid foam that will fit inside of the rigging tube, slice it to fit in the wires in the middle, push the foam into the tube about 1/8-1/4" lower than the floor & fill with silicon. It should be easy enough to fill the tube, seal it off, and in the future pop out the silicon plug.


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## Dillusion (May 21, 2012)

> May be silly or too simple but why not just use a small piece of cylindrical solid foam that will fit inside of the rigging tube, slice it to fit in the wires in the middle, push the foam into the tube about 1/8-1/4" lower than the floor & fill with silicon. It should be easy enough to fill the tube, seal it off, and in the future pop out the silicon plug.


This is what I did with my shadowcast when I had it. I ran my wires, and just cut a tube of RTV silicone in half and gushed it all into the tube to seal it off...


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## TwoKids (Jan 2, 2013)

Gramps/Matty - good idea, definitely a possible solution.

Matty - where did you get the aquaplas that you used as backing for the wire panel on the SUV?


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## davefishing (Dec 16, 2011)

Gramps has the right idea. I done something similar in a kayak. I used flowable silicone instead of regular.

I will take 3 shadowcasts over a maverick. When i scratch one i can take out a new one.


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## goon squad (Jun 5, 2013)

I would think a little shot of expandable foam (foam-o-fill) in the tube would do the trick and you can even scrape the excess foam 1/4" or so below the top edge of tube and fill level with 5200 or some other sealant. It should be nice and flush, sealed and easily removed. just my .02


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## goon squad (Jun 5, 2013)

Never mind that is pretty much what Gramps said :-[


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## blondmonkey777 (Oct 18, 2012)

> > May be silly or too simple but why not just use a small piece of cylindrical solid foam that will fit inside of the rigging tube, slice it to fit in the wires in the middle, push the foam into the tube about 1/8-1/4" lower than the floor & fill with silicon. It should be easy enough to fill the tube, seal it off, and in the future pop out the silicon plug.
> 
> 
> This is what I did with my shadowcast when I had it. I ran my wires, and just cut a tube of RTV silicone in half and gushed it all into the tube to seal it off...


X2 kept on getting water in my front hatch from the rigging tubes so I just put a temp seal of silicone in the ass end of the rigging tube and now front hatch is dry


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## Dillusion (May 21, 2012)

> Gramps/Matty - good idea, definitely a possible solution.
> 
> Matty - where did you get the aquaplas that you used as backing for the wire panel on the SUV?


Castaway customs


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## ras78209 (Sep 18, 2012)

Get some starboard are similar and cut a grouve in it to run wires all the way under cooler. then put some more down so that your cooler sits level. If having your cooler sit a little higher is not a problem, then you can run 5200 along edges of center strip and seal where cables come out of groove and it should keep it high and dry. then just seal the area in box and you should be good to go.
Haven't foregotten about pictures, having issues with E tech so have'nt had a chance to take any. Seems after running at speed when I cut back to idle or very low throttle the engine dies of fuel starvation,(maybe vapor lock), bulb is soft and after pumping runs great. no problems at speed. I WILL get those pictures to you.


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## AlecWebster15 (Jan 16, 2013)

> Gramps/Matty - good idea, definitely a possible solution.
> 
> Matty - where did you get the aquaplas that you used as backing for the wire panel on the SUV?


Do you remember how much the coffin box costed you? thanks


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## TwoKids (Jan 2, 2013)

Ended up using .25" thick PVC Sheet (tapplastics.com) and sealed the edges with 4000UV.  Thanks again for all the recommendations.










NC - The guide box plumbed for a livewell was approx. $600. Grab bar not included.  Give Ankona a call for latest prices.


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