# Lenco tab issue



## Zika

Wondering if anyone else has experienced this problem...

The left tab control for my Lenco electric trim tabs quit working recently. The right one still functioned normally. Checked with Beavertail (skiff is a Mosquito) and they fixed another customer's similar problem with a new control pad/module. Unfortunately, they didn't have any in stock, so I went directly to Lenco Marine. Customer service was great and I received a replacement control pad/module under warranty the next day.

Opened up the wiring bundle to the console and disconnected the three snap connectors and cut the auto retract wire (hard wired with a butt splice). Installed new unit and connected all the harnesses. The left tab control now worked and the right one didn't. Checked fuse for power and it was good. Swapped the two smaller wiring harness bundles but that killed all functions. Actuators were working on both sides before and after new control installed. House battery has 13 volts and tightened lug nuts on terminals. Still no go.

Talked to Lenco CS again and since the shipping box was damaged when it arrived, we suspected a damaged control unit. A new one arrived again the next day and I installed it Friday. Still the same reverse gripe--left tab works and right doesn't.

Calling Lenco again Monday for additional suggestions. Thinking next step might be metering the wires from connector plugs to fuse block and actuators to verify power at all points. Still doesn't make sense why the problem swapped sides?

Any ideas from the MS brain trust?


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## Smackdaddy53

Check all wiring from switch to tabs and make sure there’s no melted wires or bare spots.


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## Zika

Thanks Smack. The potted harnesses from the new control pad are all new. Will have to shimmy around in the bilge and check the ones coming off the tabs.


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## topnative2

get rid of the connectors and splice w/ heatshrink


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## jay.bush1434

I was having hell with my Lencos just randomly not working. After a lot of fiddling around it turned out to be a bad factory connector from the switch pad extension cable to the control box. I cut the connectors off and it turns out there were 10 wires on the extension cable but only 5 wires on the cable going to the control box. The wire colors didn’t match up and there is no wiring diagram available. So, I removed the switch pad and mapped the connector to find up/down both sides positive and the common. Then reconnected switch pad and ohmed out the wires at the other end where I cut the connector. From there I was able to eliminate 5 of the wires (I don’t have auto retract or LED indicators). The basic wiring diagrams in the owner’s manual aren’t very helpful at all. It was a little bit of trial and error to get up and down working on both sides in the correct sequence but after a couple tries we had it figured out. Then I used heat shrink butt connectors to put everything back together. I have the wiring diagram with the how the wires are supposed to be connected I can send you to try. You really can’t fry anything with wires hooked up wrong since it is fuse protected. It will work or it won’t. Just don’t let the wires on the control box end of the touch since that is where the hot leads will be. I pulled the fuse and turned the battery switch off when working on the wires and swapping them around.


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## lemaymiami

... and I thought that the occasional hassle with my old Bennetts was a problem... At least they provide clear schematics and lots of assistance whenever you have a problem...


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## Clubhunter

Lenco trim tabs are a pain. I replaced the motor in one last night only find one of the screw nuts don’t line up properly anymore so I spent 2 hours fiddling with that. Went ahead and hooked everything up and it still doesn’t work.


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## Zika

Jay.Bush, thanks for the info. I'd like to get the diagram from you, if you don't mind. PM me your email and I'll shoot you mine. I don't have LEDs or the auto retract, either. Sounds like this is what topnative did as well.

The Lenco tech I've been working with has been great. He was going to personally test another control pad and send it to me. Sounds like the ultimate solution will be to break out the crimpers and butt splices and go to work, though.


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## AZ_squid

Having issues with both my tabs working intermittently. Sometimes they work fine sometimes they don't at all. Seems like a loose wire somewhere. They're pretty much brand new.


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## garfish

I am having the same intermittent issue with brand new tabs so unfortunately this is not looking like an isolated issue. The new model now has a mandatory auto-retract that has to be wired into the ignition. Drives me a little crazy (when they are working) to listen to the trim tabs every time you turn the ignition off. It makes the noise even if the tabs are fully retracted.


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## Smackdaddy53

garfish said:


> I am having the same intermittent issue with brand new tabs so unfortunately this is not looking like an isolated issue. The new model now has a mandatory auto-retract that has to be wired into the ignition. Drives me a little crazy (when they are working) to listen to the trim tabs every time you turn the ignition off. It makes the noise even if the tabs are fully retracted.


Clip the orange wire and it will stop.


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## AZ_squid

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Clip the orange wire and it will stop.


Ok, what does that do?


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## Smackdaddy53

AZ_squid said:


> Ok, what does that do?


That’s the wire that ties into the ignition to tell the control box to tell the tabs to auto retract when the ignition is shut off.
The tabs will make noise even if they are fully retracted if the auto retract is in service. The worm gears in the cylinders don’t bottom out up or down, if they did more tab motors would fail and fuses would pop because people tend to not know when to stop. Once full retract or extend is reached the worm gear runs out of gears and free spins.


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## sidelock

Without turning this into a brand bashing thread or even derailing it, why would anyone buy a product that has two years guarantee on their actuators over one that's guaranteed for life ?


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## AZ_squid

Thanks Smack, good info there. So I just got home from work and started messing with the tabs. Nothing was working, turned the power switch for the whole boat off and back on, tabs worked. Any ideas? Circuit board maybe?


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## Smackdaddy53

AZ_squid said:


> Thanks Smack, good info there. So I just got home from work and started messing with the tabs. Nothing was working, turned the power switch for the whole boat off and back on, tabs worked. Any ideas? Circuit board maybe?


Are they on a fuse or a breaker that resets?


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## AZ_squid

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Are they on a fuse or a breaker that resets?


They're on an accessory switch that has a rubber button that seems like it should hold a breaker but pushing it i can't feel anything under there. I'll post up a pick here in a little bit.


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## topnative2

sidelock said:


> Without turning this into a brand bashing thread or even derailing it, why would anyone buy a product that has two years guarantee on their actuators over one that's guaranteed for life ?


Bennet tabs involved fluid pump and hoses and were not reliable and leaked etcc......the original lencos were simple and reliable then they got fancy


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## Smackdaddy53

topnative2 said:


> Bennet tabs involved fluid pump and hoses and were not reliable and leaked etcc......the original lencos were simple and reliable then they got fancy


You can still wire them with any switches you want, it’s the switches and wiring that seem to fail on people, read the posts, it’s just like trailer lights, navigation lights etc. Just about any accessory issue goes back to water intrusion, corrosion, bad ground, low battery voltage, bad battery etc. I deal with diesel trucks, tractors, lawnmowers and other vehicles and tools and it’s usually a simple wiring or voltage issue that causes failure and with our boats it’s adding saltwater to the equation. The Lencos on my 20 year old HPX Tunnel are the original ones with updated control box and switches. Water and electricity don’t mix, that’s probably why most electrical components on anything for marine use have a separate lesser warranty. That’s also why you see more jackplates with built in electric motors fail. I just installed a new Bob’s jackplate and the electric/hydraulic pump has a tag that states that it will not be warrantied for issues from getting wet whether it be mounted in a wet location or submersed.


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## topnative2

I ran lencos when they first came out and have had them on my boats except for about 6 yrs(06-12) and no problems except for one ram went and was replaced for free.I got a new set and those plug and play connectors failed from day one...cut them out and all was well..........now I have the auto retract and mounted under the hull as in recessed...so far so good

I want nothing to do w/ bennetts.......did someone sat bennett brought lenco out???

Boat is a 4 letter word ..


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## topnative2

http://www.marinco.com/en/news/lenco-press-release


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## garfish

I was told specifically by Lenco that the auto-retract (orange wire) MUST be wired into the ignition in order for the new style trim tabs to operate.


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## AZ_squid

Smackdaddy, thats what the switches look like. I figured there would be breaker resets under the rubber buttons but I don't think there is.


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## Smackdaddy53

garfish said:


> I was told specifically by Lenco that the auto-retract (orange wire) MUST be wired into the ignition in order for the new style trim tabs to operate.


BS, I installed mine on my last boat and on this one and clipped the orange wire and capped both ends with heat shrink just in case I ever want to connect them again.


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## Smackdaddy53

AZ_squid said:


> View attachment 78708
> View attachment 78710
> Smackdaddy, thats what the switches look like. I figured there would be breaker resets under the rubber buttons but I don't think there is.





AZ_squid said:


> View attachment 78708
> View attachment 78710
> Smackdaddy, thats what the switches look like. I figured there would be breaker resets under the rubber buttons but I don't think there is.


Those might be the glass fuses. Try to unscrew the cap and see if theres a glass fuse inside. If so and your tabs are working intermittently you could have some corrosion on the fuse contacts.


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## sidelock

topnative2 said:


> Bennet tabs involved fluid pump and hoses and were not reliable and leaked etcc......the original lencos were simple and reliable then they got fancy


Bennett Bolt involve fluid pump & hoses ?


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## jay.bush1434

I just read up on the Bennet Bolts. All electric and will likely be my tab of choice on my next boat.

So here are a couple things I found with my Lenco issues. The factory connections between the control pad and the control box where the two cables connect, had a loose wire or a bad crimp on one or more of the pins inside the connector. Even though East cape heat shrinked the connecton together to keep it extra sealed and securely together, it failed. For a while it was intermittent. Sometimes the tabs would work and sometimes they wouldn't. When I finally fount the issue, I ended up cutting the connectors off and splicing the wires together. 

Next was where the cable plugged into the switch pad circuit board. The connector that was potted and soldered into the circuit board just pulled out and ripped the soldered connections off. To make the issue worse, Lenco stopped making that switch pad in the Fall of 2016 and replaced it with a switch pad that has the control box integrated into it. For me it would require I significant rewire of my boat since the pad in on my flats tower and the control box is in the aft hatch. I am searching hard for a replacement old style switch pad before I suffer through the forced upgrade.


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## topnative2

sidelock said:


> Bennett Bolt involve fluid pump & hoses ?


I did not know Bennett had electric now...I am old


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## lemaymiami

They actually have both - the original hydraulic (what I’ve on my skiff nearly 30 years now..) and much more recently they’ve added electric actuators (to compete with Lenox I imagine...).


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## jay.bush1434

Ok, after much sweat, cursing and beer, here is the wiring schematic from my Lenco tabs. This has the wire connecting sequence from the switch pad to the control box (10 wires to 5 wires). I do not have the LED indicators or the auto retract. I labeled what the button does and what the tabs actually do for each wire color connection that I used. Best to hook them together temporarily and test before making up permanent connections. I wouldn't expect the wires to be different but YMMV hence my suggestion.
This is for Lenco part #30006-001D, standard tactile pad, no LED. Feel free to message me if you have questions with my drawing/labels/poor handwriting. In the meantime, if you need a replacement switch pad, get to looking and buy the first one you can get your hands on. They are very hard to come by.
Best of luck- Jaybird


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## jay.bush1434

Let me add to my above post. I had to cut the factory connection off the wires since one of the pins was broken inside (not sure how that happened but it is a boat). If you need to/want to just build your own switch pad with rocker switches or use the Lenco basic switch pad with standard rocker switches, you can use the wire color connection sequences to make it up. Also, Lenco told me that the new replacement version with integrated control box will be a plug and play replacement. If you have room to mount it and still have the factory connections you could get by with just using the "upgraded" version. I did not have the room in my flat tower console to mount the new style and the control box was in an aft hatch and would require pretty much derigging the whole console to get all the old wires out and the new wires in. I was very lucky and found an old style switch pad at my local Suzuki engine shop.


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## AZ_squid

Good info, thanks Jay


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## nollieflip

jay.bush1434 said:


> I was having hell with my Lencos just randomly not working. After a lot of fiddling around it turned out to be a bad factory connector from the switch pad extension cable to the control box. I cut the connectors off and it turns out there were 10 wires on the extension cable but only 5 wires on the cable going to the control box. The wire colors didn’t match up and there is no wiring diagram available. So, I removed the switch pad and mapped the connector to find up/down both sides positive and the common. Then reconnected switch pad and ohmed out the wires at the other end where I cut the connector. From there I was able to eliminate 5 of the wires (I don’t have auto retract or LED indicators). The basic wiring diagrams in the owner’s manual aren’t very helpful at all. It was a little bit of trial and error to get up and down working on both sides in the correct sequence but after a couple tries we had it figured out. Then I used heat shrink butt connectors to put everything back together. I have the wiring diagram with the how the wires are supposed to be connected I can send you to try. You really can’t fry anything with wires hooked up wrong since it is fuse protected. It will work or it won’t. Just don’t let the wires on the control box end of the touch since that is where the hot leads will be. I pulled the fuse and turned the battery switch off when working on the wires and swapping them around.



Having the same issue now. Do you still have this diagram?


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## jay.bush1434

nollieflip said:


> Having the same issue now. Do you still have this diagram?


Look a a couple posts up. I attached the wiring diagram in PDF


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