# Fin and Feather



## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

I'd use Coosa board as a transom core replacement and you'dd never have to worry about it again. I would highly recommend using 1 layers and glassing each layer with 1708 biaxle glass with the 1st layer on the green glass you have after the old core was removed. Then glass in 1 - 3/4" layer of Coosa board, glass that in with a layer of woven roven, add the next layer of 3/4" Coosa board and glass that in with 2 layers of 1708. On the final 2 layers of 1708, glass in the 1st layer and let it kick. Then come in and scuff that layer with a heavy grit grinding pad, then glass in your final layer of 1708.

https://www.boatoutfitters.com/coos...Ll1NWGPM1455GNQaAk2yEALw_wcB#215=249&211=1112

Is the floor soft or still tough and just needs the holes filled? If the floor feels fine, the core may have been filled with water and still holding it, if the boat was left outside and constantly filled up with water. If that is the case, I'd consider removing the outboard motor make up some blocks of wood and flip the boat, out in the sun where the water can drain out thru those holes. Unfortunately, that can take a few weeks to a month or 2 to really do it right and get it all dried out properly. Then you can flip the boat boat over, fill the holes with some fiberglass fibers, cavicel and resin to make a putty and fill in the holes. Then sand out and paint.

EDIT.... I just saw the pics from the ad and it looks like you might need some professional help with those large holes that are cut out in the false floor. They are not easy to do. Maybe find a shop that can do both the transom and the floor and then match the gel coat. When finished, you have something really special.


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## Guest (Nov 11, 2018)

Welcome aboard!
Transom= coosa like backwater said, divynicel h120, komacel blown pvc
Floor= divynicel h60-h80, nida core, core cell, etc...


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## Bama12 (Apr 13, 2008)

Backwater said:


> I'd use Coosa board as a transom core replacement and you'dd never have to worry about it again. I would highly recommend using 1 layers and glassing each layer with 1708 biaxle glass with the 1st layer on the green glass you have after the old core was removed. Then glass in 1 - 3/4" layer of Coosa board, glass that in with a layer of woven roven, add the next layer of 3/4" Coosa board and glass that in with 2 layers of 1708. On the final 2 layers of 1708, glass in the 1st layer and let it kick. Then come in and scuff that layer with a heavy grit grinding pad, then glass in your final layer of 1708.
> 
> https://www.boatoutfitters.com/coos...Ll1NWGPM1455GNQaAk2yEALw_wcB#215=249&211=1112
> 
> ...


Backwater:

Thank you! Do you have any sources for the Coosa in Northeast Florida or anywhere close?

I am evaluating now, but I am thinking arhat I will need to cut out the entire floor and reglass some of the stringers. I have done fiberglass work before and feel confident about this. I appreciate your reponse.


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## Bama12 (Apr 13, 2008)

Bama12 said:


> Backwater:
> 
> Thank you! Do you have any sources for the Coosa in Northeast Florida or anywhere close?
> 
> I am evaluating now, but I am thinking arhat I will need to cut out the entire floor and reglass some of the stringers. I have done fiberglass work before and feel confident about this. I appreciate your reponse.


Edit: Boat Outfitters Lol. Thanks


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## Bama12 (Apr 13, 2008)

T


Boatbrains said:


> Welcome aboard!
> Transom= coosa like backwater said, divynicel h120, komacel blown pvc
> Floor= divynicel h60-h80, nida core, core cell, etc...


Thank you! Any recs on Divinycell and Nida Core source?


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## Guest (Nov 12, 2018)

Bama12 said:


> T
> 
> Thank you! Any recs on Divinycell and Nida Core source?


Where are you located? Might be able to get you in on a bulk purchase if your close.


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

Bama12 said:


> Backwater:
> 
> Thank you! Do you have any sources for the Coosa in Northeast Florida or anywhere close?
> 
> I am evaluating now, but I am thinking arhat I will need to cut out the entire floor and reglass some of the stringers. I have done fiberglass work before and feel confident about this. I appreciate your reponse.


That source can ship, including FGCI.com

Unfortunately, that was what I was driving at and will take some experience to accomplish. But in the end, it's the best way to fully resolve the issue. Those core materials that BoatBrains suggested will work. But I highly suggest that you widen the stringers and glass in a wide lip for the edges of the floor to rest the floor on and be bonded to with a resin putty, on both the side lip and on top of the stringers. Also use 1708 & mat to glass both sides of your floor core before you bond it in, as well as tabbing it to the sides, front & rear bulkheads with 5-6" 1708 tape. Then texture a non-skid gelcoat.


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## Bama12 (Apr 13, 2008)

Boatbrains said:


> Where are you located? Might be able to get you in on a bulk purchase if your close.


Jacksonville, Fl


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## Bama12 (Apr 13, 2008)

Backwater said:


> That source can ship, including FGCI.com
> 
> Unfortunately, that was what I was driving at and will take some experience to accomplish. But in the end, it's the best way to fully resolve the issue. Those core materials that BoatBrains suggested will work. But I highly suggest that you widen the stringers and glass in a wide lip for the edges of the floor to rest on and be bonded to with a resin putty, on both the side lip and on top of the stringers. Also use 1708 & mat to glass both sides of your floor core before you bond it in, as well as tabbing it to the sides, front & rear bulkheads with 5-6" 1708 tape. Then texture a non-skid gelcoat.


10-4. Thank you.


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