# 14’ Stumpnocker2 Project



## Fritz

Nice post. I really like that you have detailed the cost so far, that's one thing that we prefer not to talk about, or so it seems. Keep the updates coming!


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## Capt Rhan

If you have a 4" angle grinder try to find you one of the polycarbide abrasive wheels. They come in different abrasives and will save many hours of work and a lot of $$$ on sand paper. They will make it easier to get in those rounded areas. FYI when I put a new one on I try it out on my concrete floor to soften it up some. This also lets me know how course it is so as not dig in to fast.


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## CRB223

Yea I got one and it gummed up with the old paint pretty quickly. Still plan to use it on the remaining edges here and there.


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## Capt Rhan

CRB223 said:


> Yea I got one and it gummed up with the old paint pretty quickly. Still plan to use it on the remaining edges here and there.


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## Capt Rhan

take a scrap piece of metal and lightly dust it on the pad at normal speed that will ungum it up. If the gumming is from old bottom paint you can rinse it out with some acetone. Don't soak it just rinse and then try the metal trick.
I rebuild and rework the old ones usually 2 a year just for fun. I never put wood where I can use aluminum.


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## CRB223

Went to finish sanding today and ran into an issue. Water somewhere in the hull. I was scared of this when I picked it up, and wondered why it was so heavy when we tried to flip it. As I turned loose the first bolt on the bow u bolt (which wasn’t really sealed when it was installed), I saw water. Bled about a quart or two.















The water on the outside is from rain/water hose. Water in the inside is from the holes in the bow. It’s sitting bow down on the saw horses, so any water should be up forward.

Then I noticed water dripping from a small stress crack in the front bench seat. Drilled a couple holes on top side along with some vent holes near the deck on the front side and water starts to flow.. thing was full, 5+ gallons came out. Back bench was ok, only a drop or two came out.

Water got in from rainwater sitting in boat for about a month before I picked it up. Both through the unsealed bow u bolt holes, and open holes on the bench where a seat used to be. Water was over front bench too. When I picked it up the boat was full of water, with trailer tongue on ground, and all water sitting in front end. It was like this for a month before I got it. The prior few years of its life have been spent upside down.

I had to drill a couple core samples to see how saturated the deck is, and to my surprise it was dry everywhere. I’ll be opening up the benches from the top to insert pedestal seat bases so I’ll clean them out better at that time.


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## CRB223

Got some work done on days that the weather cooperated, and gave Boat a good while to dry out. Finished sanding, applied 3 coats of barrier (went up to top rail on 1st coat as primer for topside paint, rest was all below waterline), good coat of antifoulant, and 4 coats topside paint on sides. Turned out pretty good.























Next step is to flip it, strip it down, patch the holes I drilled, paint the top a sand color, replace and add new stainless hardware, install seats, and add jack plate and motor. 

Up to $800+ after buying seats, more paint, and a couple trips to the hardware store.

Got a couple ideas on electronics, but I’ll get to that later.


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## CRB223

Got her flipped and added this logo that I got off the internet.









Here’s some pics of the topside. Lots of work left here.


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## CRB223

Been cold af this week so no paint, but was able to get everything stripped, all my holes drilled and hardware temp fit, and the top sanded and ready for paint.

Mini Jacker and a couple of u bolts on the transom. Bought them way too sturdy, 1/2” bolts. All I need them to do is give me an anchor point for mooring. Not trying to wake board lol
















Installed some pedestal seat bases as well. Used these heavy duty toggle bolts as a backing and 5200ed the crap out of all the holes. Rattle canned a similar color underneath the bases. 























Popped all the rivets off the hatch hinges. Replacing with stainless bolts and locknuts. Rivets were all loose. May be overdoing it with the hardware here, but whatever.
















Also added a new bow cleat.









Almost done. Took everything apart, sanded and washed it. Ready for paint once it heats up a tad, hopefully this weekend. More pics to come when it’s done.


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## CRB223

Also, I broke the $1000 mark during my last trip to Lowe’s. Hopefully that’s it for now.


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## CRB223

Well it warmed up a tad and I was able to get some painting done. Put the first coat on with the rustoleum topside in sand/beige. Turned out like an off white color, but I was going for more of a tan. So I took a trip to my local Sherwin Williams to get some tinting to darken up the rest of my paint, and I was unsuccessful in tinting it the color I wanted. The girl there mentioned they had their own marine paint called Seaguard so I went back and bought a gallon of it and let them tint it the right color. Turned out nice, a little glossier than I wanted tho.























Going to put one more coat on the deck with rustoleum anti skid additive, get all my outfitting done, change props and add outboard, and get this thing in the water. Hope to have it done (done for now at least) and in the water by the end of the week.


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## CRB223

She’s in the water.. but the last couple of updates first. 

Nonskid turned out ok, but if I had to do it over, I’d go with a different product. It was difficult to get it evenly distributed and it has the texture of sandpaper. Regardless, it works and it doesn’t look terrible.









Got the mini-jacker and motor mounted. I miscalculated it and still set it about an inch too low (anti cav plate is just even with the hull now), but I’ll raise it another day. I drilled the holes where it gives me an inch of play either way. It works just fine for now.









Finished up by replacing all the rivets in the hatch hinges with stainless bolts. Thought about replacing the hinges but the hole patterns weren’t standard and the old ones still worked. I bought some of that rubber trim that goes around car doors to run the bottom edge, but bought it too thin. The correct size is on the way now.









Some final product shots. 























Got a few ideas about more things I’d like to do - electronics, lights, grab bar etc. I’ll post updates when I make a move on any of them.


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## Smackdaddy53

My buddy has this hull. Sweet!


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## LowHydrogen

Looking good man, nice job. I like the colors you chose. Never owned one but, when I was a kid I fished out of one of these hulls on Lake Rousseau.


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## LowHydrogen

I hope you came back to the dock for that beer....


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## CRB223

LowHydrogen said:


> I hope you came back to the dock for that beer....


I’d never leave a man stranded


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## SkipJack

Sweet skiff man. Not trying to hijack your thread but I bought a 2001 14’ Stumpknocker and had it rebuilt a while back. Just sold it last year, such an awesome boat. 50hp evinrude on it and man did she go fast. Here’s a few pics so you can check it out. These boats are popular in Florida and was rare to find one here in Texas.


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## CRB223

SkipJack said:


> Nice.. I bet that thing would fly with that much power hanging off the back.


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## CRB223

More updates to come soon. I went on amazon and got a little crazy. Spent another $600. Got the fish master grab bar, tiller extension, New transducer and ram mount for my lowrance elite5, running lights, a marine stereo with Bluetooth, deck lights, and a 6 switch panel to tie it all in. Brainstorming now on where/how to mount everything, and how to run my wires from bow to stern without it being too hard on the eyes. 

I was able to spend some time on the water Saturday and noticed a few things. The motor is mounted too low, as I stated before. While on plane my anti cav plate is still underwater (barely) and is throwing a bit of spray. Also, my 10p prop allows me to hit rev limiter at full throttle and it seems to be ventilating when trying to get up on plane. Especially in a mild chop, moreso when in a following sea. That has me worried about raising the motor. One more thing - when by myself, it tends to porpoise a bit, but not terrible. Motor is set at almost perfect perpendicular trim in reference to the keel. With a passenger up front, porposing is no issue. I’m not happy with how quickly it is getting on plane either. 

Going to make these adjustments and see how it goes: trim down 1 hole, which will toe in the motor a bit. Replace 10p with 11p prop. Raise jack plate 1”. And keep the idea of a hydrofoil in the back of my mind.


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## JBonorden

CRB223 said:


> More updates to come soon. I went on amazon and got a little crazy. Spent another $600. Got the fish master grab bar, tiller extension, New transducer and ram mount for my lowrance elite5, running lights, a marine stereo with Bluetooth, deck lights, and a 6 switch panel to tie it all in. Brainstorming now on where/how to mount everything, and how to run my wires from bow to stern without it being too hard on the eyes.
> 
> I was able to spend some time on the water Saturday and noticed a few things. The motor is mounted too low, as I stated before. While on plane my anti cav plate is still underwater (barely) and is throwing a bit of spray. Also, my 10p prop allows me to hit rev limiter at full throttle and it seems to be ventilating when trying to get up on plane. Especially in a mild chop, moreso when in a following sea. That has me worried about raising the motor. One more thing - when by myself, it tends to porpoise a bit, but not terrible. Motor is set at almost perfect perpendicular trim in reference to the keel. With a passenger up front, porposing is no issue. I’m not happy with how quickly it is getting on plane either.
> 
> Going to make these adjustments and see how it goes: trim down 1 hole, which will toe in the motor a bit. Replace 10p with 11p prop. Raise jack plate 1”. And keep the idea of a hydrofoil in the back of my mind.


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## JBonorden

I have the same hull, built in 1984. My dad's boat. Youve done a fantastic job in restoration. I need to get started again. Had to remove wed deck between the front deck and the back seat. Mine had the same symptoms you talked about so i kicked the motor in one notch. Then realized i just needed more weight up front. Moved my battery and gas tank. Solved my problems. I was running a 35 Evinrude on mine. With the weight of the boat, you may be under powered a little with the 4 stroke. That heavy 2 stroke 35 made me jump on plane and top end with fishing gear was about 33mph






with 15 p. prop. Will be following your thread.


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## CRB223

JBonorden said:


> I have the same hull, built in 1984. My dad's boat. Youve done a fantastic job in restoration. I need to get started again. Had to remove wed deck between the front deck and the back seat. Mine had the same symptoms you talked about so i kicked the motor in one notch. Then realized i just needed more weight up front. Moved my battery and gas tank. Solved my problems. I was running a 35 Evinrude on mine. With the weight of the boat, you may be under powered a little with the 4 stroke. That heavy 2 stroke 35 made me jump on plane and top end with fishing gear was about 33mph
> View attachment 22039
> with 15 p. prop. Will be following your thread.


Yea it’s definitely a tad underpowered. I think my hull tag said it was rated for 25hp. I estimate it’s running 25+ at wot now, which is plenty fast for me. I think after I do some fine tuning I will get another 1 or 2 out of it. Still need to mount my gps for true data.

Hopefully my post gives you a little motivation to get yours going.


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## CRB223

Ive got a question for you guys that have this same hull. How thick is the deck? And what does the structure look like/how is it layered - foam, plywood, etc.? I drilled a few 1/4” wide by 1/2” deep holes in various places on the deck before I started the project to check for soggy wood. All I found was a layer of glass and wood that deep. 

I’m about to mount my grab bar, which simply screws to the deck. The screws they supplied are going to go 1.25” deep, and I’m worried if that’s going to penetrate through the hull or get too close for comfort.


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## JBonorden

CRB223 said:


> Ive got a question for you guys that have this same hull. How thick is the deck? And what does the structure look like/how is it layered - foam, plywood, etc.? I drilled a few 1/4” wide by 1/2” deep holes in various places on the deck before I started the project to check for soggy wood. All I found was a layer of glass and wood that deep.
> 
> I’m about to mount my grab bar, which simply screws to the deck. The screws they supplied are going to go 1.25” deep, and I’m worried if that’s going to penetrate through the hull or get too close for comfort.


Mine was glass over 3/8 plywood over glass matt. Not very thick. You have a newer hull built by some different folks. Might be different. I thought is saw somewhere that Stumpnocker converted to all composite, but don't know when or if it is true.


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## JBonorden

Between the boxes. Not much wood to work with.


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## CRB223

JBonorden said:


> View attachment 22071
> Between the boxes. Not much wood to work with.


That picture is exactly what I was expecting. Thank you. 

I think griffis and sons made them from mid 70s until just a few years ago, so I’d bet mine is the exact same. My hull ID matches their MIC. 

Not sure how the hell to mount that grab bar into something that thin. I could get some 3/8” long screws but I don’t feel like that’s gonna hold when I get into it. I don’t plan on putting too much pressure on it, but I sure would love some insurance/factor of safety.


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## yobata

CRB223 said:


> That picture is exactly what I was expecting. Thank you.
> 
> I think griffis and sons made them from mid 70s until just a few years ago, so I’d bet mine is the exact same. My hull ID matches their MIC.
> 
> Not sure how the hell to mount that grab bar into something that thin. I could get some 3/8” long screws but I don’t feel like that’s gonna hold when I get into it. I don’t plan on putting too much pressure on it, but I sure would love some insurance/factor of safety.


You can grind out a spot (or 2) and bed some phenolic with epoxy that is thick enough for the screws you want to use.

@Whiskey Angler has an example of the process here: https://www.microskiff.com/threads/gladesmen-refurbish-project.40587/page-2#post-327366


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## Whiskey Angler

yobata said:


> You can grind out a spot (or 2) and bed some phenolic with epoxy that is thick enough for the screws you want to use.
> 
> @Whiskey Angler has an example of the process here: https://www.microskiff.com/threads/gladesmen-refurbish-project.40587/page-2#post-327366


When I did mine, I was able to just scrape out the foam core, but you may need router to remove a clean section of wood if you plan on embedding phenolic like I did. 
You may also consider bedding a piece of phenolic in epoxy ON TOP of the floor and then glassing over that. It could look very clean if done correctly and should provide a solid base for your grab bar.

Ironically, I didn't even end up mounting my grab bar to the floor, just used my cooler mounted grab bar. But I did put new cooler tie downs and screwed them into the embedded phenolic.


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## Battfisher

Whiskey Angler said:


> When I did mine, I was able to just scrape out the foam core, but you may need router to remove a clean section of wood if you plan on embedding phenolic like I did.
> You may also consider bedding a piece of phenolic in epoxy ON TOP of the floor and then glassing over that. It could look very clean if done correctly and should provide a solid base for your grab bar.
> 
> Ironically, I didn't even end up mounting my grab bar to the floor, just used my cooler mounted grab bar. But I did put new cooler tie downs and screwed them into the embedded phenolic.


I did a version of this on my previous 14' skiff, before I had much experience in getting information from this site. I took a composite 2x6 about 18" long, roughed it up with 100 grit sandpaper, wrapped it in chopped strand fiberglass cloth and epoxy, then ground off the gelcoat from the deck and epoxied it down. Screwed the mounting plate for the grab bar to the 2x6 and put 5200 in the holes and under the plate (Fishmaster grab bar). Worked like a charm. It was a nice dark brown color so I didn't even paint it.


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## CRB223

Good info guys. I’m leaning towards doing it the way battfisher recommended. I don’t see much value in chopping the deck up so I’m just going to grind it down and epoxy something to the deck. Phenolic is difficult to find that thick for a reasonable price. I’m going to poke my head around Lowe’s and see what kind of composite material they have. If nothing reasonable is found, I may end up just getting an untreated 2x6, seal it up, and epoxy that down. Not trying to spend an extra $50 to mount this thing. Also, I have no fiberglass or resin on hand to glass out anything. 

Been working too much and my trailer is on loan so will be a few more days before I get it out of the water to work on it.


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## JBonorden

CRB223 said:


> Good info guys. I’m leaning towards doing it the way battfisher recommended. I don’t see much value in chopping the deck up so I’m just going to grind it down and epoxy something to the deck. Phenolic is difficult to find that thick for a reasonable price. I’m going to poke my head around Lowe’s and see what kind of composite material they have. If nothing reasonable is found, I may end up just getting an untreated 2x6, seal it up, and epoxy that down. Not trying to spend an extra $50 to mount this thing. Also, I have no fiberglass or resin on hand to glass out anything.
> 
> Been working too much and my trailer is on loan so will be a few more days before I get it out of the water to work on it.



Curious as to how you got the hull flipped over on the saw horses. Do you have a couple of good strong friends to help or did you have a sling and pulley system of some sort? I need to flip mine and all my friends are 65+ with bad backs.


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## CRB223

JBonorden said:


> Curious as to how you got the hull flipped over on the saw horses. Do you have a couple of good strong friends to help or did you have a sling and pulley system of some sort? I need to flip mine and all my friends are 65+ with bad backs.


Had a buddy help mean the initial flip, and we just manhandled it. I actually flipped it right side up by myself. If you can manage to get it up on the gunnels and balance it out, you can “walk” it to the other side of the horses and ease it down from the middle. I did make use of a hydraulic jack to maneuver the horses around from time to time while I was working on it. I wish I could be of more help with a smarter way to do it.


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## CRB223

Got my grab bar mounted. I used a 1x6” board of non treated Douglas fir, sandwiched two pieces together with epoxy, then coated in epoxy resin. Drilled my baseplate into it, sanded the deck down to the glass, and epoxied it down. Backed it up with two 5/16 stainless lag bolts through the box (I should’ve used a backing plate, but I got lazy). Laid down a ton of 5200 as you can tell and painted everything. It feels very solid.























I also built a tiller extension out of sch 40 pvc. The Suzuki handle is about 1-3/4” so I used a 1-1/2” piece, cut 4 slits in it and heated the pipe to expand it around the handle. It flares out when you do this, but once you clamp it down and it cools off, it forms nicely to the handle. Tied in a 1-1/4” piece to make the new handle a little more ergonomic for me. Painted black with Krylon plastic spray paint and taped it with black athletic tape. The tape may not last, but I used to wrap my baseball bats like this and it always held up well.


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## CRB223

I’m struggling to get my motor set correctly. I’ll try to explain the before and after adjustments. 

Before: ventilation plate sitting even with keel, trimmed perpendicular, 10p stock prop. Hitting rev limiter at wot, ventilating intermittently when trying to get on plane and especially when in a following sea, throwing a little bit of spray (more than I think it should, but not throwing it over the stern at all).

Changed to 11p Solas prop. Same height and trim as before. No ventilation issues, no rev limiter, same amount of spray. 

Moved jackplate up 1”.








Ventilation plate now sitting ~1” above bottom of boat, level trim, still with the 11p solas. Less spray but still more than I like and it’s coming over the stern. Prop ventilates intermittently, worse than before. Trim up 1 notch, prop blowing out when trying to get on plane. Trim down 1 notch (from original), spray is out of control over the stern, no ventilation that I could tell. Trim down 2 notches (lowest setting), spray will sink you. I reset and pull her out of the water. 

I think I have to go back down 1 inch and play with the trim. Wondering if a hydrofoil will help any of this.


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## JBonorden

CRB223 said:


> I’m struggling to get my motor set correctly. I’ll try to explain the before and after adjustments.
> 
> Before: ventilation plate sitting even with keel, trimmed perpendicular, 10p stock prop. Hitting rev limiter at wot, ventilating intermittently when trying to get on plane and especially when in a following sea, throwing a little bit of spray (more than I think it should, but not throwing it over the stern at all).
> 
> Changed to 11p Solas prop. Same height and trim as before. No ventilation issues, no rev limiter, same amount of spray.
> 
> Moved jackplate up 1”.
> View attachment 23721
> 
> Ventilation plate now sitting ~1” above bottom of boat, level trim, still with the 11p solas. Less spray but still more than I like and it’s coming over the stern. Prop ventilates intermittently, worse than before. Trim up 1 notch, prop blowing out when trying to get on plane. Trim down 1 notch (from original), spray is out of control over the stern, no ventilation that I could tell. Trim down 2 notches (lowest setting), spray will sink you. I reset and pull her out of the water.
> 
> I think I have to go back down 1 inch and play with the trim. Wondering if a hydrofoil will help any of this.


I'm running a whale tail on the 35 I have on the stumpnocker hull. It is set even with the bottom. No spray and it jumps up from a dead stop. Running a 15 pitch stainless 3 blade prop. Tried 4 blades, but lost too much speed.


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## CRB223

Got impatient this morning and I bought a SE200 Sport Marine hydrofoil. Going to try it out with my current settings and see what happens. We’ll see if their claims of eliminating ventilation are true.


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## CRB223

Also, I started chopping up one of my boxes so I can start installing electronics. More updates to come soon.


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## CRB223

Switch panel, gps, radio, and running lights mounted. I decided to run the wires to the lights and transducer under the gunnel rail. Wiring doesn’t look great, but looks better than wires running inside the boat to me.. I have another speaker that I was thinking of installing on the other side of the box, but figured I’d see what one sounded like first. It’s plenty loud.






























Also mounted my hydrofoil. Looks ridiculous. No water test yet to see how it works. I’ll update when I have a minute to ride.


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## JBonorden

In the next to last photo, are the heads of the screws under your rub rail?


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## CRB223

JBonorden said:


> In the next to last photo, are the heads of the screws under your rub rail?


The heads of the bolts are on the outside of the rail and secure the wire clips with lock nuts on the inside. In the first picture you can see one of them at the bottom.


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## CRB223

Update on the motor setup. 

I added the hydrofoil and left the motor set where it was (cav plate ~1” above keel). No real change in performance, prob still blowing out when trying to get on plane. Couldn’t really tell the benefits of the hydrofoil because of ventilation. I did get it up on plane and reached 28mph on my one and only run. 

Dropped jackplate back down to original height. Checked with a level and I’m 1/4” above bottom of hull now. It’s still ventilating intermittently, but not too bad, and the spray is worse due to the blunt leading edge of this hydrofoil (but not over the stern anymore). Top speed of 27.2 mph. 

I’m in the middle about the hydrofoil’s benefits. Gets on plane a little better, control in turns is better, and rides a little slower on plane. It did really well in some skinny water and very curvy bayous. Not a crazy improvement, I think it’s costing some speed, and Im just not sure if it’s necessary. I’ll leave it on there for now.


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## CRB223

The spray.


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## Smackdaddy53

The correct prop will work wonders


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## CRB223

Smackdaddy53 said:


> The correct prop will work wonders


I agree, if I only knew what the correct one was I’d buy it..


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## Smackdaddy53

CRB223 said:


> I agree, if I only knew what the correct one was I’d buy it..


I recommend calling a good prop shop and getting the correct prop instead of fooling around and guessing like I see lots of folks do. It’s a huge waste of time trying all those props versus a phone call or two to someone that props boats for a living. 
Cool boat, my buddy has one just like it!


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## NativeBone

Anyone know of a good prop shop in Brevard County?


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## Big Fish

CRB223 said:


> I agree, if I only knew what the correct one was I’d buy it..



Hey, do you still have this stumpknocker?


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