# Conchfish build planning.



## KingFlySC (Jan 15, 2018)

I am in the process of planning a build. I had been leaning towards a bateau lm18, but now I am all but set on a Conchfish, (or other Chris Morejohn design) build. 

These are probably better questions for Chris, however before I start bothering him I figured I would get some insight here first. 

Things I want:

-Something closer to 18' so its either the Conchfish 17.5 or one of his other plans. 
-I want to be able to fish 2 people pretty much every time, 3 people comfortably, and maybe 4 on a rare occasion. 
-I want to be able to do this with some speed as well. I really want a 70hp yamaha 4 stroke. 
-I want to be able to run across a bay in up to 2' chop and not get soaking wet.
I don't plan on doing this regularly, however if we drive 4-12 hours to a destination to fish, I dont want reasonable wind to completely keep us off the water. I don't want to be stuck if a storm picks up when I'm halfway between flamingo and islamorada. 

Most of the conchfish builds I have seen have been 16' and 20-30 hp. Is the conchfish 17.5 rated for a 70 if built to spec? 

Right now I am in a gheenoe lt25. Its a great little boat, has served us well, and will continue to do so, however we want a bigger boat. I want to be able to run across a bay in up to 2' chop and not get soaking wet. I am not looking for a bay boat. I still want a poling skiff. In fact poling ability is a very important part of this boat for me. I wanted a tiller, however my wife is not a fan. So I will be building as low a profile side console as I can. Open cockpit. 

Having said all of this, is it possible to get all of these things and still be able to run on plane in less than 1' of water? I saw first hand all of the prop scars in florida bay and I do not want to be a contributor of that. Being able to hop on plane from a "pothole" is another ability I want. 

Am I looking for a unicorn or is this a boat that I can build?


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

KingFlySC said:


> I want to be able to run across a bay in up to 2' chop


In a flat bottom skiff...that is funny.

run on plane in less than 1' of water? I saw first hand all of the prop scars in florida bay and I do not want to be a contributor of that.

Prop wash will damage grass at that depth.


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## KingFlySC (Jan 15, 2018)

DuckNut said:


> In a flat bottom skiff...that is funny.
> 
> run on plane in less than 1' of water? I saw first hand all of the prop scars in florida bay and I do not want to be a contributor of that.
> 
> Prop wash will damage grass at that depth.


Learn me, I'll admit ignorance. What's the minimum depth needed to run without causing damage to grass? I'm not trying to do anything that's not right. This is all still very new to me.


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

Sounds like you will want something larger than the Conchfish 17.5 (or at least something with a little deadrise). His new Beryllium plans look pretty good, or maybe the Lithium. I've driven the Lithium with a tiller 50 and it's an absolute riot.

Also, a 2' chop probably isn't what you think it is, but I think we know what you mean. Where in SC do you typically fish?


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## KingFlySC (Jan 15, 2018)

Maybe I should reword some things. When I say run across a bay in 2' of chop I don't mean scream across @ wot. I mean more be able to make it back at a speed faster than idle and dryer than in my Gheenoe. Is that wishful thinking? 

Also I think the less than 1' of water is a bit much. I just saw a bunch of boats running across some of the flats down there and didn't seem to be leaving prop scars. Maybe the water was deeper than I thought.


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## KingFlySC (Jan 15, 2018)

bryson said:


> Sounds like you will want something larger than the Conchfish 17.5 (or at least something with a little deadrise). His new Beryllium plans look pretty good, or maybe the Lithium. I've driven the Lithium with a tiller 50 and it's an absolute riot.
> 
> Also, a 2' chop probably isn't what you think it is, but I think we know what you mean. Where in SC do you typically fish?


Charleston to Hilton Head. Anywhere in between. I'm still in the process of putting time in and learning the water on the SC coast. Have yet to even see a redfish down there while on the boat.

My wife and I plan on doing trips to maybe TX and Louisiana and the SC, GA and of course Florida coasts. Eventually want to move somewhere between Charleston and Jax. 

Yeah I think 2' is a bit exaggerated from what's in my head. I understand this is still a skiff and I have no expectations of it being anything more than that. We ran into a guy on a Chittum Islamorada 18 and both agreed that size boat is what we want.


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## Guest (Jun 10, 2019)

I second the Beryllium!


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## KingFlySC (Jan 15, 2018)

Boatbrains said:


> I second the Beryllium!


I have read all I can find on Chris's website, but havent quite found what Im looking for as far as hp ratings and stuff for different models. I know he is a busy man so I have been patiently waiting for him to post updates on all the other plans. It looks awesome from the few design pics he has on there. Is there anything else on the market that it compares to from a design and size standpoint? (just for comparative reference). 

I am not stuck on having a 70hp by any means but i also would like to be able to cruise in the 30-35mph range and maybe touch 40 wot. I don't know what combination of hull and motor I need to do that. I don't know if that's even a reasonable speed to want. 

Top priority is poling ability. I want it to sit level in the water and track well. The reason I am thinking maybe higher hp is because I tend to have long runs and do alot of exploring. Our last trip to the chickee was extremely slow due to all the camping gear, and it really wasn't that much weight. I couldn't get past 14mph. We made it, however I couldn't help but think about what the right tool for the job would be. Plus the 70 doesn't weigh much more than a 40.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

KingFlySC said:


> Learn me, I'll admit ignorance. What's the minimum depth needed to run without causing damage to grass? I'm not trying to do anything that's not right. This is all still very new to me.


Measure from yhe bottom of the hull to bottom of the skeg. Lets say 10 inches and that is not counting any draft of the hull.

You are 2 inches above the sand and easily in the grass. Then the violent water being spun off the prop will be beating up the ground.

Now add in the draft.


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## Guest (Jun 10, 2019)

DuckNut said:


> Measure from yhe bottom of the hull to bottom of the skeg. Lets say 10 inches and that is not counting any draft of the hull.
> 
> You are 2 inches above the sand and easily in the grass. Then the violent water being spun off the prop will be beating up the ground.
> 
> Now add in the draft.


Ok, now add a tunnel “custom build”, low water pickup, stainless prop with lots of cup, and a Bob’s jackplate! And learn how to drive the rig!


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

from what I'm reading, wanting to fish 3 to 4 people you want a flats boat not a poling skiff (although people do pole flats boats), like an 18 ft Maverick.


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## KingFlySC (Jan 15, 2018)

devrep said:


> from what I'm reading, wanting to fish 3 to 4 people you want a flats boat not a poling skiff (although people do pole flats boats), like an 18 ft Maverick.


3-4 people will be more of the exception rather than the rule. I would say probably 90% of the time it will be my wife and I, however if I wanted to bring another it would be nice to have the room, and also the hp to make that happen.

Edited to add*
I want to still be able to poll areas in florida bay like snake bight for example. If I cant do that, then I'd rather sacrifice the extra person capacity than the poling ability.


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## CodyW (Jan 26, 2016)

Asking for a lot out of a boat.


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## KingFlySC (Jan 15, 2018)

CodyW said:


> Asking for a lot out of a boat.


That sort of what I'm afraid of. I know I have thrown out alot of "requirements" but these are just things we have talked about would be nice. They are not actually requirements, and in all reality just about any poling skiff is going to perform and do things better than our gheenoe. I am just trying to figure out the best direction to go in for this build. 

I guess what i should be asking is what are the capabilities of the Conchfish 17.5. What are the hp recommendations? I'm not sure if anyone has build a Beryllium yet, but also what are the specs and capabilities of that boat? I sent Chris an email so hopefully that will give me the info I need on which of his plans meet my needs best.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Boatbrains said:


> Ok, now add a tunnel “custom build”, low water pickup, stainless prop with lots of cup, and a Bob’s jackplate! And learn how to drive the rig!


What kind of prop? Stern or bow lift...makes a big difference.


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## Guest (Jun 11, 2019)

Well sir, I would suggest stern lifting for shallow water.


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## Guest (Jun 11, 2019)

Or, run a jet like me for the shallow stuff!​


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## KingFlySC (Jan 15, 2018)

Boatbrains said:


> Or, run a jet like me for the shallow stuff!​


I don't even want to open up the whole poling a tunnel hull can of worms. Jets have always interested me, however I have never run one nor have I even been on a boat with one. When do we get to see an xcaliber update? I have been drooling over that thing for a while. 
Great looking design. Look forward to updates.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Boatbrains said:


> Well sir, I would suggest stern lifting for shallow water.


How do you type the sound for - wrong answer?


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

KingFlySC said:


> I don't even want to open up the whole poling a tunnel hull can of worms. Jets have always interested me, however I have never run one nor have I even been on a boat with one. When do we get to see an xcaliber update? I have been drooling over that thing for a while.
> Great looking design. Look forward to updates.


Keep busting his balls. He just ignores me now


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## Guest (Jun 11, 2019)

DuckNut said:


> Keep busting his balls. He just ignores me now


Some say it’s a talent, I say it’s a gift!


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## Guest (Jun 11, 2019)

KingFlySC said:


> I don't even want to open up the whole poling a tunnel hull can of worms. Jets have always interested me, however I have never run one nor have I even been on a boat with one. When do we get to see an xcaliber update? I have been drooling over that thing for a while.
> Great looking design. Look forward to updates.


X-Caliber is coming along. Been working out some details on the cap before lay up and final fairing work on hull before gelcoat. Waiting on weather for gelcoat now but as soon as I have a little break she will be blue! Poling platform won’t be built til’ last week of the month. All hardware and electrical is sitting here in boxes!


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

KingFlySC said:


> I don't even want to open up the whole poling a tunnel hull can of worms. Jets have always interested me, however I have never run one nor have I even been on a boat with one. When do we get to see an xcaliber update? I have been drooling over that thing for a while.
> Great looking design. Look forward to updates.


All I will say is don’t believe everything you read on the internet. I’ve been poling tunnel skiffs for years with no issues and recently began guiding out of the same boat. I’ll be on the platform a minimum of 6-8 hours a trip so I guess that counts as first hand experience. 
As for running on plane over grass, if the prop is above the bottom of the boat on plane you can run over 6” of grass and not harm a hair on her pretty head. If you can go around and run deeper water to get to the same place that’s best but when you want to hop over without leaving a trench and polishing your prop and skeg I’d say boatbrains knows what’s up.


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## KingFlySC (Jan 15, 2018)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> All I will say is don’t believe everything you read on the internet. I’ve been poling tunnel skiffs for years with no issues and recently began guiding out of the same boat. I’ll be on the platform a minimum of 6-8 hours a trip so I guess that counts as first hand experience.
> As for running on plane over grass, if the prop is above the bottom of the boat on plane you can run over 6” of grass and not harm a hair on her pretty head. If you can go around and run deeper water to get to the same place that’s best but when you want to hop over without leaving a trench and polishing your prop and skeg I’d say boatbrains knows what’s up.


I appreciate your response and insight. In researching my options for this build I have had to ask myself again what exactly I want to do with this boat. This shallowest water I am going to fish will be in Florida bay. For the most part there is always a way to take a channel around to where I want to get to. I have been talking with Chris about his Beryllium design, but I don't really know what the size of it is and what it's comparable to. I have never really been on any other skiffs. I can't just go wet test this one either. The hull is 18'4" with a 75" beam. Add to that whatever hangover I get from the cap. Pretty big boat. I don't know how much it would run or draft setup with a 70hp and very simple layout with lowpro side console.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

KingFlySC said:


> I appreciate your response and insight. In researching my options for this build I have had to ask myself again what exactly I want to do with this boat. This shallowest water I am going to fish will be in Florida bay. For the most part there is always a way to take a channel around to where I want to get to. I have been talking with Chris about his Beryllium design, but I don't really know what the size of it is and what it's comparable to. I have never really been on any other skiffs. I can't just go wet test this one either. The hull is 18'4" with a 75" beam. Add to that whatever hangover I get from the cap. Pretty big boat. I don't know how much it would run or draft setup with a 70hp and very simple layout with lowpro side console.


A boat built light with that big of a footprint will probably float in 6” with two average sized guys and a normal load (bag of ice, drinks, fuel and tackle). 
If you’re building a boat big enough for 3-4 people 10% of the time I’d think you’d want a Morejohn tunnel for that 10% of the time you need to get shallow. About all you lose is 1/4” of draft and maybe a couple miles an hour off the top end. 30-32mph is fast enough in a poling skiff IMO.


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## KingFlySC (Jan 15, 2018)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> A boat built light with that big of a footprint will probably float in 6” with two average sized guys and a normal load (bag of ice, drinks, fuel and tackle).
> If you’re building a boat big enough for 3-4 people 10% of the time I’d think you’d want a Morejohn tunnel for that 10% of the time you need to get shallow. About all you lose is 1/4” of draft and maybe a couple miles an hour off the top end. 30-32mph is fast enough in a poling skiff IMO.


Now the gears are turning in my head. I know nothing of how to actually run a tunnel hull. From what I have read it seems like its mostly having the right prop. I would like to be able to run in the upper 30's, however stepping up to a 90 is more than 100lbs extra plus the added cost too. I am hoping to come in around 15-16k total. I could live with low 30's I guess. 

Does a tunnel hinder the ability of the engines water uptake? One of the things I want to do with this boat is when we head down to the keys, is run up to say flamingo and fish. Is a long run like that doable?


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## Tailer (Jan 10, 2017)

You definitely do not need a tunnel hull to fish Florida Bay. You should never be running in less than a foot of water out front, stick to the channels while on plane. Most of the shallow water in Florida Bay is Pole and Troll only and the parts that are not should still be treated that way:

https://www.nps.gov/ever/learn/management/poleandtroll.htm


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## KingFlySC (Jan 15, 2018)

Tailer said:


> You definitely do not need a tunnel hull to fish Florida Bay. You should never be running in less than a foot of water out front, stick to the channels while on plane. Most of the shallow water in Florida Bay is Pole and Troll only and the parts that are not should still be treated that way:
> 
> https://www.nps.gov/ever/learn/management/poleandtroll.htm


Yes sir, I know this and have addressed the *less than 1' statement. Im really thinking more 1.5-2'. I have no intentions of furthering the damage to the seagrass down there. 

It amazed me some of the places where I saw prop scars. Right up along the edges of some of the small keys out front. Where the water was like 8-10".


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Tailer said:


> You definitely do not need a tunnel hull to fish Florida Bay. You should never be running in less than a foot of water out front, stick to the channels while on plane. Most of the shallow water in Florida Bay is Pole and Troll only and the parts that are not should still be treated that way:
> 
> https://www.nps.gov/ever/learn/management/poleandtroll.htm


Needing a tunnel and having one are two different things! 
Why are people so scared of having the ability to get the prop away from the bottom? Just because you have a tunnel doesn’t mean you have to run over 6” grass flats all day, it just means you can get that stainless salad shooter up and away from the bottom. You’ll do more damage getting on plane in 2’ of water with a non tunnel. 
No, a tunnel doesn’t hinder the ability for water to get to the intakes, it aids it! The only reason some of us run tunnels with low water pickups is because we have the motor jacked up so high it gives most Florida boys nightmares just thinking about it.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

KingFlySC said:


> Yes sir, I know this and have addressed the *less than 1' statement. Im really thinking more 1.5-2'. I have no intentions of furthering the damage to the seagrass down there.
> 
> It amazed me some of the places where I saw prop scars. Right up along the edges of some of the small keys out front. Where the water was like 8-10".


I bet most of these scars would be nonexistent if people didn’t have 8” of prop hanging below the hull.


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## Guest (Jun 12, 2019)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> I bet most of these scars would be nonexistent if people didn’t have 8” of prop hanging below the hull.
> View attachment 77964


Smack, I think you can go up a couple more inches brother! Just send that salad shooter out to Jack for a little more cup!


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## KingFlySC (Jan 15, 2018)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> I bet most of these scars would be nonexistent if people didn’t have 8” of prop hanging below the hull.
> View attachment 77964


Smack you're a hell of a salesman. So in my case where I'm building rather than buying, and also for the hull and motor I'm going to be running is there a certain tunnel design that's better suited than another? I don't want to do anything that's going to be a huge pain to get running right. Could ya'll help me come up with the right tunnel if I go this route?


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

I've fished some of the areas where Smack fishes. If I did it all the time, I'd run a tunnel also. 

I'm in agreement with Smack that the effect of a tunnel on draft or poling attributes is NEGLIGIBLE. 

My last skiff had a tunnel (profile pic) , my current build will not. This has everything to do with where I fish MOST of the time. My previous skiff I ran for 9 years did not have a tunnel. 

It I were you, I'd look at what MOST people in your area are running. There is a reason they are running what they are running. 

Lastly, if there were no downsides to running a tunnel on a skiff, then every skiff would be built with one. Think about it.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

for what you're doing I would not mess with a tunnel. you don't need one. besides the hassle of building the tunnel you will need an expensive specialty prop and will need to go thru tuning it. you will also want a jack plate, although you may want one of those anyway. this from a guy who runs a tunnel.


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## KingFlySC (Jan 15, 2018)

Sublime said:


> I've fished some of the areas where Smack fishes. If I did it all the time, I'd run a tunnel also.
> 
> I'm in agreement with Smack that the effect of a tunnel on draft or poling attributes is NEGLIGIBLE.
> 
> ...


These are all very good points. Unfortunately I don't live on the coast right now so my home waters are really wherever I drive to. Having said that we are doing everything we can to set ourselves up to move to either the SC, GA, or Fl coast as soon as we can. Probably the Jax area. Those places are pretty similar as far as the fishing and waters go. The closer we are to south florida the more often we will be down there as well. 

There are things I like about the tunnel idea and things I don't. For where I will be fishing I don't think it's necessary or even advantageous, but I honestly dont't know. Shallow draft while on the pole and casting platforms are going to be most important for flood tide fishing. 

I am well aware that I am trying to make one boat fill the role of like 3. I am sure though that I can settle on something that is a nice compromise and can at least do all these things, if not do them fairly well.


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## Pole Position (Apr 3, 2016)

KingFlySC said:


> I have been talking with Chris about his Beryllium design, but I don't really know what the size of it is and what it's comparable to. I have never really been on any other skiffs. I can't just go wet test this one either. The hull is 18'4" with a 75" beam. Add to that whatever hangover I get from the cap. Pretty big boat. I don't know how much it would run or draft setup with a 70hp and very simple layout with lowpro side console.



If I'm not mistaken, Chris was going to draw up the Beryllium in approximate 16', 17', and 18' lengths ( ?? )


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## KingFlySC (Jan 15, 2018)

devrep said:


> for what you're doing I would not mess with a tunnel. you don't need one. besides the hassle of building the tunnel you will need an expensive specialty prop and will need to go thru tuning it. you will also want a jack plate, although you man want one of those anyway. this from a guy who runs a tunnel.


This makes sense. Coming from the competitive firearms world I have had some firearm builds that required expensive parts and were finicky to run. Required constantly dicking with them to get it right. I do not want that with this boat. The only thing I want to do is clean it, and do preventative/ interval maintenance.


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## KingFlySC (Jan 15, 2018)

Pole Position said:


> If I'm not mistaken, Chris was going to draw up the Beryllium in approximate 16', 17', and 18' lengths ( ?? )


Yes correct. From the email I got last night the 18' model is 18' 4". I do not know anything about the other 2 aside from their approximate lengths. From my understanding he is going to be building two skiffs this fall and documenting/ writing a book of the process. One of these will be the beryllium. I am not sure what exact specs and options he will be putting on that build.


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## Guest (Jun 12, 2019)

KingFlySC said:


> This makes sense. Coming from the competitive firearms world I have had some firearm builds that required expensive parts and were finicky to run. Required constantly dicking with them to get it right. I do not want that with this boat. The only thing I want to do is clean it, and do preventative/ interval maintenance.


Allow me...

For the tunnel design I am positive @Chris Morejohn can and will help you figure that part out. He had a proven tunnel that just works and can be tweaked for different hulls!

Once built, run the stock aluminum prop and get some baseline numbers. Now, contact Jack Foreman or another custom prop shop and have them make you a prop that will do what you need...

I think the Beryllium would probably be a good fit for you. It is a little wider/longer than my X-Caliber design and meant to take more HP for those heavier loads!

Once you have the hull/tunnel/prop dialed in then, no more tweakin needed! Go ahead and rig with a Bob’s hydraulic jackplate from the start and maybe even have them do a low water pick up for you. These won’t be cheap but at the end if the day you will be glad you did! I cannot count the number of boats I’ve rigged where the customer said no to the jackplate/LWP and came back a month or two later for... a jack plate and low water pickup. This translated to a higher install charge and a few weeks down time for their brand new boat! Both are worth their weight in gold when you need them!


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## Pole Position (Apr 3, 2016)

Found it:

https://hogfishdesign.wordpress.com/2019/05/16/latest-skiff-plans-available-for-purchase/


"BERYLLIUM 18.4 , 17.6, 16 with numerous lower chine, pad, tunnel, Stern options


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## KingFlySC (Jan 15, 2018)

Boatbrains said:


> Allow me...
> 
> For the tunnel design I am positive @Chris Morejohn can and will help you figure that part out. He had a proven tunnel that just works and can be tweaked for different hulls!
> 
> ...


I was hoping you would chime in. I appreciate the response. This is what I needed to hear as far as doing the tunnel right if I go that route. I need to talk with Chris about the tunnel and go ahead and get plans. I want to start the build towards autumn this year. Let's say October. I have a pool to fill in in the backyard but after that my free time is actually free again. 

I should be able to put a good bit of time in every week. I don't have kids and my wife is 100% on board and wants to help. We have to bear down and save up some more money but should be able to pull it off.


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## Guest (Jun 12, 2019)

You can save a small fortune by using polyester resin opposed to epoxy! Probably enough to buy that Bob’s jackplate!


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## KingFlySC (Jan 15, 2018)

Boatbrains said:


> You can save a small fortune by using polyester resin opposed to epoxy! Probably enough to buy that Bob’s jackplate!


Is one better than the other from a quality or strength standpoint? I've never used either, at least not in this big of an application. So whatever I use I'll have to start from scratch with the learning curve. I'm all about saving some dough as long as I'm not compromising any build quality.


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## Guest (Jun 12, 2019)

KingFlySC said:


> Is one better than the other from a quality or strength standpoint? I've never used either, at least not in this big of an application. So whatever I use I'll have to start from scratch with the learning curve. I'm all about saving some dough as long as I'm not compromising any build quality.


They are both great for boat building!
My take is simple, we’ve been building boats with poly resin and fiberglass for a very very long time! Epoxy does have some properties that are better/stronger no doubt, but the average person building and using a skiff will likely never know the difference. If you ask Chris, he is likely to tell you the same.


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

What about a power jack plate and no tunnel? I've seen some setups like that run pretty skinny. It might be a good compromise. 

Another option is a manual jack plate. Set it, and forget it. My old BT was set up like this and it would easily run in a foot or less and still turn like it was on rails.

Edited to add:

My BT had sponsons. There's an argument that the sponsons helped hold some water around the prop. I dunno know about all that.


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## manny2376 (Mar 15, 2007)

South Fl advice only (tunnel gods please don’t be upset at me!) 

IMO, a tunnel or jack plate is not required for Florida bay. I run an 18’ Waterman down here and regularly fish with 3 on board. I also pack it to the gills for wintertime camping missions without issue. You’re simply not running in inches of water down here, or jumping on plane in a foot either. Florida bay and Flamingo isn’t set up that way. 

Actually, a little bit larger skiff with open water crossing capabilities will be perfect for down here. ENP, Florida bay and the keys can have sudden weather changes and can be windy at times. Being able to do 40mph + across bays and out run thunder storms is vital! Much more so than running in 8”. Albeit, this advice is for south Florida specifically (keys, ENP, Florida bay, Biscayne). 

Most guides down here run Maverick HPX’s, HB Marquesas or Pros. From what I’ve read the larger beryllium is a take on this style of skiff (70-115hp. 8-10” draft). 

Also, dont believe exact draft #’s. There’s so much that goes into that AFTER the skiff is rigged. Some guys have a hard time NOT adding every available thing onto their skiffs. 3 batteries, power pole, TM, jack plate, etc... 6” goes to 8” goes to 12” really quick. 

Good luck with your build! All of Morejon’s designs look really great lately!


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## KingFlySC (Jan 15, 2018)

Boatbrains said:


> They are both great for boat building!
> My take is simple...





Sublime said:


> What about a power jack plate and no tunnel? I've seen some setups like that run pretty skinny. It might be a good compromise...





manny2376 said:


> South Fl advice only (tunnel gods please don’t be upset at me!)
> 
> IMO, a tunnel or jack plate is not required for Florida bay. I run an 18’ Waterman down here and regularly fish with 3 on board. I also pack it to the gills for wintertime camping missions without issue....
> 
> Good luck with your build! All of Morejon’s designs look really great lately!


Man I can't thank ya'll enough for all the information and help. I have a bunch of decisions to make and I cant wait to get my plan ironed out and get started. Ill post up a build thread once I get some traction going, and I will probably have some questions ill be posting up here as well. Thanks again!


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

If Chris Morejohn sets you up with plans you will have a great resource to pull information from.


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## Chris Morejohn (May 12, 2014)

Hey I just noticed this conversation, all good advice for sure. 
The points I see here and have talked with this gentleman about are this.
Everyone needs to look at my design spec sheets real close. The hull lines drawings have the displacement weights shown for each inch of draft. Look at the numbers and then add or subtract how big you and your buddies are, and all your gear. It’s an eye opener knowing your numbers in real life before you build your skiff.
The way to gain draft is to go on a diet and to build to my design specs.
The Beryllium skiff is still a technical poling skiff that will be able to run in rough chop. Ask guys that have run my Lithium skiff build how she goes along. 
Having 4 people in a flats skiff is ok for a fun day on the water, forget about traveling over skinny water to fish a shallow hole. To many people.
The only place I would think of needing a tunnel is on hardish bottom real long distance places like Texas and the gulf coast.
To fish south Florida and the Carolinas you do not need a tunnel.
If it’s 2 people that want to stalk fish and really pole a tunnel can get you across long shallow water areas but you will need at least 20” to jump up again to get back out without making a donut in the bays bottom.
Just a jackplate can do wonders at times.
I would just build the skiff without all that stuff and learn to pole in and out of places.
Look at the drawings to see the details.
I really appreciate being able to read everyones takes on all my past and present designs. Lots of great insight gained from you all that actually are out there using skiffs and equipment.
Thanks


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## KingFlySC (Jan 15, 2018)

Chris Morejohn said:


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> Hey I just noticed this conversation, all good advice for sure.
> ...


Chris, 

Thank you for taking the time to respond to this and share your knowledge. I think I have a really good idea of what I want at this point. I am thinking no tunnel, rounded stern, and I need to get your insight on what chine option would be the best but that's pretty much what I want to do. Ill get with you via email this evening or tomorrow. Thank you sir!


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