# Gheenoe homeade front and rear decks



## Jon (May 20, 2018)

Hi everyone, I'm a new member that's been looking to buy a gheenoe LT 25 for my first micro skiff. I'm trying to keep my budget to a minimum and thinking of getting a used classic and slowly upgrading the hull by removing the bench seating and customizing it by adding front and rear decks with some storage. My question is for anyone that's done something like this before, I've never done anything like this before but don't mind taking on a project. Is it worth it? Or should I just pay for a custom gheenoe with it all already installed? Any advice is appreciated.


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## Guest (May 22, 2018)

Jon said:


> Hi everyone, I'm a new member that's been looking to buy a gheenoe LT 25 for my first micro skiff. I'm trying to keep my budget to a minimum and thinking of getting a used classic and slowly upgrading the hull by removing the bench seating and customizing it by adding front and rear decks with some storage. My question is for anyone that's done something like this before, I've never done anything like this before but don't mind taking on a project. Is it worth it? Or should I just pay for a custom gheenoe with it all already installed? Any advice is appreciated.


Worth it is up to you, it will take some time and cash thrown at a used one to make how you want it. You can improve on a lot of things with that time and cash like many here have, that I’m not sure the builder will do. If you include your labor, cost of used hull, plus electric, fuel runnin around to get things then you’ll probably be close money wise. If you make decent income then buying new might be a better option. Time is money so only you can decide what your time is worth. At the end of the day though, nothin like completing a project that you thought of and knowing that it is what you wanted it to be... except maybe taking to the water for the first wet test, then catchin your first fish on it and slimin it up a little!


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## Flatbroke426 (May 5, 2018)

I just bought a LT25 from San Carlos Marine. I am going to do the decks myself. It’s not bad Just get all the info you can and use good materials. All that limits you is your imagination. I’ve built numerous skiffs and am so looking forward to teaching my so. How to on this gem


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## Jon (May 20, 2018)

Flatbroke426 said:


> I just bought a LT25 from San Carlos Marine. I am going to do the decks myself. It’s not bad Just get all the info you can and use good materials. All that limits you is your imagination. I’ve built numerous skiffs and am so looking forward to teaching my so. How to on this gem


What kind of materials did you plan on using?


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## Dschouest42 (Jul 12, 2017)

Jumping on this, I am curious how one makes templates for bulkheads forward and aft. Im not the best with templates


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## NativeBone (Aug 16, 2017)

Cut up small pieces and glue together to the contour of hull. You can then trace out onto your deck material. If I can find a pic I will upload.


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## NativeBone (Aug 16, 2017)

@Dschouest42


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## Flatbroke426 (May 5, 2018)

Jon said:


> What kind of materials did you plan on using?


Using divinicel as the core and carbon fiber cloth as a stiffener. Keeping as much weight out as possible


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## Flatbroke426 (May 5, 2018)

NativeBone said:


> @Dschouest42


Beautiful work


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## NativeBone (Aug 16, 2017)

The pic is not my work but something to illustrate my previous thread. Its the same setup i used when i installed bulkheads on my LT25. Search the forum and you will find a wealth of information similar/ identical to your project. Lots of talented members on here.


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## Jon (May 20, 2018)

Flatbroke426 said:


> Using divinicel as the core and carbon fiber cloth as a stiffener. Keeping as much weight out as possible


My friend who just made a flat stalker from scratch reccomended nida core. Not sure if anyone is familiar with this material. I've seen alot of tutorials usous marine plywood but my friend used that previously to the nida core and said a year later it had to be replaced. Any know of any threads on this forum or any other for a newby on how to do this from start to finish.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Jon said:


> My friend who just made a flat stalker from scratch reccomended nida core. Not sure if anyone is familiar with this material. I've seen alot of tutorials usous marine plywood but my friend used that previously to the nida core and said a year later it had to be replaced. Any know of any threads on this forum or any other for a newby on how to do this from start to finish.


1 year later the marine ply had to be replaced?? What kind of resin did he use? if you fully encapsulate marine ply with quality marine epoxy resin this will not happen


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## Jon (May 20, 2018)

yobata said:


> 1 year later the marine ply had to be replaced?? What kind of resin did he use? if you fully encapsulate marine ply with quality marine epoxy resin this will not happen


Not sure what kind he used but I know he didn't cut corners. He stored it outside and obviously something went wrong. Just after hearing his story it makes me weary of usous marine plywood. My concern of using nida core or something else would be me being able to secure things like a polling platform or grab bar to the deck.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Jon said:


> Not sure what kind he used but I know he didn't cut corners. He stored it outside and obviously something went wrong. Just after hearing his story it makes me weary of usous marine plywood. My concern of using nida core or something else would be me being able to secure things like a polling platform or grab bar to the deck.


You can "pot" fasteners into nidacore. Over drill, use an Allen wrench to remove some of the core, fill with thickened epoxy, let it cure then drill to correct specs for your fastener


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## Guest (May 26, 2018)

yobata said:


> 1 year later the marine ply had to be replaced?? What kind of resin did he use? if you fully encapsulate marine ply with quality marine epoxy resin this will not happen


I’ve had exterior grade with poly resin last over 5 years in a deck or two. Something wasn’t done right for sure Yobata!


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## Guest (May 26, 2018)

yobata said:


> You can "pot" fasteners into nidacore. Over drill, use an Allen wrench to remove some of the core, fill with thickened epoxy, let it cure then drill to correct specs for your fastener


What about corelight or another CMG board? They hold a screw as good or better than wood, compression strength is great “I have used for transoms in some small skiffs”, not as light as nida but we are talking a small project here. Just a thought.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Boatbrains said:


> What about corelight or another CMG board? They hold a screw as good or better than wood, compression strength is great “I have used for transoms in some small skiffs”, not as light as nida but we are talking a small project here. Just a thought.


I have not previously seen CoreLite boards mentioned. From the description on their website, it sounds like a good product. I am assuming you have used it before, how does the cost compare to other synthetic core?


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## Guest (May 27, 2018)

yobata said:


> I have not previously seen CoreLite boards mentioned. From the description on their website, it sounds like a good product. I am assuming you have used it before, how does the cost compare to other synthetic core?


The board I use is around $130 for a 4x8x3/4. Case prices drop about 15% If I remember correctly. I am very happy with it. The compression strength is awesome and it really holds a screw too! It’s basically a blown pvc product. It’s not the corelight brand I use is Komerling/Komatex. You have to give it a good wipe down with acetone or styrene prior to glassing. My distributor reccomended styrene so that’s what I use. It is heavier than d cell and the like but is great where compression strength is needed.


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## Carivera (Jan 13, 2017)

I attempted to do a skiff restoration myself, and I just couldn't find the time. I'm sure it can be an awesome experience completing one, but I am happily catching fish on my new LT25. to each their own.


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## tomahawk (Mar 9, 2012)

Ghenoes are cheap. Its really not worth it to dump money into a rebuild when you can get a new one setup the way you want and have less $ into it than a rebuild if you use epoxy and good marine ply like meranti or okumme. Its even less cost effective if you you use composites as they take more resin and glass than wood to get the same strength. 
I rebuilt a wrecked highsider that I got for $100. A lot of the materials I already had from my skiff build and I still spent more on it than a new one would have cost....But I like doing that stuff and resale wasn't an issue for me since I was giving it to my son.


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## Guest (May 27, 2018)

tomahawk said:


> Ghenoes are cheap. Its really not worth it to dump money into a rebuild when you can get a new one setup the way you want and have less $ into it than a rebuild if you use epoxy and good marine ply like meranti or okumme. Its even less cost effective if you you use composites as they take more resin and glass than wood to get the same strength.
> I rebuilt a wrecked highsider that I got for $100. A lot of the materials I already had from my skiff build and I still spent more on it than a new one would have cost....But I like doing that stuff and resale wasn't an issue for me since I was giving it to my son.


You nailed it with your last sentence! But I disagree on the wood/composites stength/weight/cost argument. Wood needs epoxy, composites don’t. Marine ply isn’t cheap either. The added cost of the epoxy makes the build cost very close. I can lay up a composite panel with poly resin and composite core that will match the weight/strength ratio of any wood layup and so can anyone else if they research the products they are using before mixing the first batch of resin. I’m in no way knocking wood/epoxy build here, some people like it and do great things with that combo! Restoring an old boat just has some sentimental thing to it that draws us in. I am getting ready to restore an old johnsen skiff at the same time I am starting a plug for an 18’ technical poling skiff. I could just put my efforts into the plug but I want to see this old johnsen on the water again! Cost effective, no. Finished quality product that someone will love, priceless!


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## tomahawk (Mar 9, 2012)

Boatbrains said:


> You nailed it with your last sentence! But I disagree on the wood/composites stength/weight/cost argument. Wood needs epoxy, composites don’t. Marine ply isn’t cheap either. The added cost of the epoxy makes the build cost very close. I can lay up a composite panel with poly resin and composite core that will match the weight/strength ratio of any wood layup and so can anyone else if they research the products they are using before mixing the first batch of resin.


I'm not really up on the newer composites and you may be right. Divinycell and Nidacore are what I'm familiar with and they do require more glass and resin to achieve the same strength ratio. Also, on these microskiffs, the weight difference is negligible over wood if the proper glass/resin ratio is used on the older composites. A lot of amateur "boat builders" fail to use the proper ratios when using composites as well. Make no mistake, I'm an amateur, but I have consulted a couple of designers on this stuff over the years. 
If $$ was no object I would by all means go composite all the way.


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## Guest (May 27, 2018)

tomahawk said:


> I'm not really up on the newer composites and you may be right. Divinycell and Nidacore are what I'm familiar with and they do require more glass and resin to achieve the same strength ratio. Also, on these microskiffs, the weight difference is negligible over wood if the proper glass/resin ratio is used on the older composites. A lot of amateur "boat builders" fail to use the proper ratios when using composites as well. Make no mistake, I'm an amateur, but I have consulted a couple of designers on this stuff over the years.
> If $$ was no object I would by all means go composite all the way.


Right again about the amateur builders. It still takes a bit of resin to soak into wood though. The comp. cores don’t soak it up if done “properly” . A sheet of 3/4” nida core with 2 layers 1708 each side should weight about the same as a sheet of 1/2” ply with no glass/resin. In small builds the benifit of composites is the life of the product more than weight savings but if you know how to use them the weight savings can be had also. I’ve used wood/epoxy before and with the cost of the epoxy I can’t say wood is cheaper either. As I move forward with my newest venture I’ll be sharing proper ratios and techniques here to help some of those amateurs with they’re builds.


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## tomahawk (Mar 9, 2012)

Cool...I'll look forward to that.


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