# Running Lights not working



## Bill Payne (May 22, 2018)

so I've got another electronics question. I am swapping out my nav lights for LEDs. I have the type of switch that toggles down for running lights (nav and anchor) and up for just anchor. The anchor light is working in both switch positions. The nav lights are working in neither switch position. I clipped off the old fixture and stripped the wires and the wire is black. If I rub it a little, I can see a little copper coming through. Is this why it's not working? Do I need to re-run the wires, or ca I just clip it back a ways and splice in some new wire?

Also, how can I test the new light to make sure it is not an issue?

Thanks in advance.


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## jonny (May 1, 2007)

If they were working prior it sounds like a wiring mix up when you installed the new ones. Did you rewire at the switch or just splice in the new at the lights?


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## Bill Payne (May 22, 2018)

They weren’t working before. I had my mechanic look at them and he just clipped the wire back 6” and got them working. That only lasted a season though, they’re broken again.

I just spliced at the lights this time.


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## Gogittum (May 24, 2020)

The black is oxidation and can cause problems. You can try spreading the strands and scraping lightly with a knife blade until you have shiny copper to get better contact. Move the strands around some to get as much of the black off as possible. Best would be to run new wiring.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

use tinned wire.


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## Silent Drifter (Apr 29, 2021)

This is how my switch is wired ...


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## jonny (May 1, 2007)

Is that a 3 position switch? You need to isolate the anchor. Hard to tell from the pic. But possibly the jumper is on the wrong tab.


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## TXJM (Aug 14, 2020)

jonny said:


> Is that a 3 position switch? You need to isolate the anchor. Hard to tell from the pic. But possibly the jumper is on the wrong tab.


If that is a three position, both light should come on when in one position, nothing in center amd only nav in the other position. It would bug me that the jumper goes to the anc pole of the switch but I don’t see how it really matters. Does the switch have continuity? If you have the ugly black oxidation that far in the wire, I would run new tinned wire. Use heat shrink connectors and make sure they allow no path for atmosphere to get to the wires themselves. 
chip


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## Silent Drifter (Apr 29, 2021)

Yes thats correct both on one way nothing in middle and just stern/ anchor light other way! I couldnt get it to work then my Buddy at Chelsea marine drew that diagram, said to jump the middle to put power on both sides of the switch...


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## coconutgroves (Sep 23, 2013)

Isolate the issue - run the hot wire directly to the battery - make sure your lights are good. If that doesn't work, check your ground. You should be grounding to a known good source - a ground block, or other ground wires that run to the ground block. I don't ground to the switches - I run grounds separately to keep the clutter out under the console.

Then follow the 3 way switch advice in here - you will have to create a jumper for the anchor as others as pointed out.


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## Bill Payne (May 22, 2018)

TXJM said:


> If that is a three position, both light should come on when in one position, nothing in center amd only nav in the other position. It would bug me that the jumper goes to the anc pole of the switch but I don’t see how it really matters. Does the switch have continuity? If you have the ugly black oxidation that far in the wire, I would run new tinned wire. Use heat shrink connectors and make sure they allow no path for atmosphere to get to the wires themselves.
> chip


Mine is a three position switch, I'm thinking I should probably just snake new wire. What gauge is used for this typically?


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## Bill Payne (May 22, 2018)

Bill Payne said:


> Mine is a three position switch, I'm thinking I should probably just snake new wire. What gauge is used for this typically?


How about this stuff


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## bob_esper (Jun 3, 2021)

Get it with a black cover. That white will look green before you know it lol


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## Silent Drifter (Apr 29, 2021)

I had a spool looked just like that wire tin coated marine,but it sat in boat a couple weeks due to work and in that time that white outer sleeve turned plum black with mold. I tried to clean it and even paint it green to improve the looks cause it was exposed in gig boat and looked like crap ! It didnt like the paint stayed sticky! So i bought a green drop cord and thats what i used still looks good 14 gauge wire, only negative but dont matter for gig boat was its not tinned wire as per marine use...but i covered it in dielectric grease and heat shrink ....and a Country Boy Will Survive 🤠


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## mro (Jan 24, 2018)

Bill Payne said:


> I just spliced at the lights this time.


LED bulbs have polarity, meaning that if the + or - is reversed it wont work.

If you've got this covered ....... never mind


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Here's what you can do. Patch it up till it works, Frankenstein it. It will last maybe a year. Or do what I just did, get 60'x2 of tinned copper in 2 colors, one color for running lights and the other for turn/stop. Then get your back lights out of the water, drive on poles. Get plenty of shrink butt connections with solder and shrink adhesive tube to cover. Then it will last for years


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## Silent Drifter (Apr 29, 2021)

^^^^^^^One of us is lost my interpretation says hes working on boat navigation lights not trailer LOL
Last i seen you didnt even have Drive on poles ,also know as guide-ons 🤔 give me some of what you got 🥳


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## SS06 (Apr 6, 2021)

Make sure lights are actually working...direct wire to battery...if so....re-wire what's there and things will work


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## Silent Drifter (Apr 29, 2021)

^^^^^ Thats what i was thinking touch the wires coming off the lights them selves to the battery, 👍
I bought some led back up light bulbs for my truck, but they wouldn't work with out some other parts so i went back with silver star ......


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## SS06 (Apr 6, 2021)

I bought under gunnel LED's for a previous boat that I swear drove me insane....took a day to calm down...touched both to a battery...neither worked!!!!
New lights sent...worked like a champ.

OP it's two lights.. check/change lights, check/change switch, check/change wires...done


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## Silent Drifter (Apr 29, 2021)

I installed led navigation on my gig boat running and anchor and all worked fine, so something is up with his ,as you said touch the pig tails directly to battery and see if they even work....👍


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Silent Drifter said:


> ^^^^^^^One of us is lost my interpretation says hes working on boat navigation lights not trailer LOL
> Last i seen you didnt even have Drive on poles ,also know as guide-ons 🤔 give me some of what you got 🥳


you may notice the lights are on 







Y


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## Silent Drifter (Apr 29, 2021)

So you got them guide-ons on 👍 good job, i remember you saying you couldn't put any on !

But as i said the OP is asking about navigation lights ,and the switch that works them ,not the trailer lights ! But good job getting them guide-ons mounted 👍


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Ok I re-wired my nav lights last year. Replaced with LED shark eyes and LED anchor. I just ran 14 gauge tinned copper from front to back. Added a new off/on switch. I had some problems with the anchor light bulb, it’s a push turn and it wouldn’t stay tight. Then someone on here suggested I use UV glue. I did and it’s tighter
You wire LED just like any light.


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## Silent Drifter (Apr 29, 2021)

If the lights are already siliconed ,mounted in hull i bet a 9 volt battery would make them light up LOL don't take much for leds, you know the battery we use to stick our touge to for fun 😋


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## Rookiemistake (Jan 30, 2013)

Is there a fuse for the switch? My boat has a fuse


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## Bill Payne (May 22, 2018)

Thanks for all the tips! I got them installed and they work great!


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## OrtegaOyster (5 mo ago)

Bill,

Do you recall which LED lights you purchased? I have a 97 Bayfisher and would like to change mine out. Thanks!


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## Capteasterling (Mar 10, 2021)




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