# Repainting the inside of a Hatch



## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

For that area a product called bilge paint would be all you need. It typically comes in gray but some companies have other colors. It is tough stuff but does not give the high gloss and is cheaper than topside paint.

For the prep work read the directions on the particular product you choose .


----------



## Gator_Bob (Jun 26, 2007)

I used Sherwin Williams "Tile Clad" for the interior. Very nice and comes in colors. Check my post with pictures


----------



## jsnipes (May 1, 2011)

Thanks for the responses guys. I just drove back from West Marine and looked at the bilgekoat. I looked at the back for directions but things were still a little unclear in terms of what kind of prep work would be needed. Is gelcoat considered a "previously painted surface"? As far as priming, all it said on the can was "All preparation for bare substrates is covered on the appropriate primer datasheet" which doesn't help me too much.

For a novice, which method of application is going to result in the best looking finish? When I was at home depot yesterday I saw paint sprayers for like $70 and at West Marine they had some paint sprayer deal by all the marine paints that was like $20 (looked like maybe a one-time use deal). Or am I better off just getting a roller and some brushes? It also seems like doing this in the garage will be the best plan? Or maybe the driveway for application and then roll it back into the garage to dry?

Gator_Bob,

Thanks for that suggestion. Just checked your thread. That paint color turned out amazing, really impressive. I don't know if I can stand keeping the boat in the garage for 7 days though, that's a long time without fishing (especially as I am off work for a while)!


----------



## AfterHours2 (Aug 2, 2010)

IMO, the hatch compartment looks like bare gel coat. It wouldnt take much to just re gel coat it and it would probably last as long as you need it to. In the areas where something may sit/rub the floor you might think of using a material like seadek to keep from the scuffing of the floors. Im afraid that any paint you use might not last as long as you want based on the condition it is now. Good luck ..


----------



## jsnipes (May 1, 2011)

AfterHours2.

Would you mind defining "it wouldn't take much" to re-gelcoat the area? And how one would go about doing that? Google is giving me some sailboating forums where people seem to be advising against re-gelcoat due to the difficulty and cost.


----------



## AfterHours2 (Aug 2, 2010)

They are certainly right on the cost aspect but the difficulty can be argued. If you have sprayed any two part product then you can surely spray gel coat. The only difference is the thinner used and it would be styrene. If you have any access to a marine store that sells fiberglass materials then stop by and see what they have, every product is a little different. The prep would be the same as paint, a good sanding and degreasing will do the trick. If your opposed to spray then it can be brushed but then again your not going to come out with a sprayed quality product. There should be plenty of info on google for you I just think longevity wise, gel coat is the way to go... Good luck!


----------



## Gator_Bob (Jun 26, 2007)

The 7 days is for total curing. It will dry in about 3-4 hours and then you can leave it outside.


----------



## pgmelton (Apr 19, 2011)

Jsnipes,

A couple of things in play with respect to your post. Most of us that have started with bigger boats use resin based lamination. The most common top coat with resin is gel coat.

What I have noticed in the short time of posting in this form, is that many of the rebuilders/builders here go with epoxy based products. The most common topcoat for that is two part paint. Gelcoat is only used with epoxy when Duratec is added.

The pros and cons of epoxy versus resin is for another post, but in short epoxy is stronger and better and more expensive. Which is why most of us that started with bigger boats use resin (gelcoat).

Now about your hatch. The bottom line is how do you want it to look like when your done? If a plain finish is fine, sand the inside with 120 grit til clean and smooth.  Vacuum out dust and thoroughly clean with acetone. Brush on one coat of gel coat (without paraffin), wait till it is tacky (almost dry) and brush on another coat with paraffin. Let thoroughly cure than sand smooth with 220 or 300. 

If a yacht-like finish is desired the same process is the followed (maybe an additional coat). Only difference is a lot more sanding and buffing. Spray light coat of black lacquer (very, very light, just enough to place a minor coating of paint on gelcoat) then sand with 300 until all black lacquer is gone. Repeat process with wet sanding 600 grit and 800 grit. Then buffing with 1000 to 1500 grit polish (no lacquer) and finish with 2000 grit polish. This is a lot of work and very difficult for a hatch because of the angles. 

Quite frankly the first process is very adequate and appropriate for that process. IMO save the very labor intensive work for the parts you can see. Besides, it a lot of time and money that can go towards being on the water fishing.

Good luck and keep the pictures coming.


----------



## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

bleach drinker said it well but I would like to add to this


> If a plain finish is fine, sand the inside with 120 grit til clean and smooth. Vacuum out dust and thoroughly clean with acetone. Brush on one coat of gel coat (without paraffin), wait till it is tacky (almost dry) and brush on another coat with paraffin. Let thoroughly cure than sand smooth with 220 or 300.


This can be done with paint as well. Certain paints have a higher gloss than others and some paints are one part like house paint and some are two part that gets mixed together before using. 

The opinions here are from people who have used the respective products and have been satisfied with the results. 

Many different choices and it all depends on your desired outcome. The prettier you want it the more labor intensive it will be. If you want a 10 year good looking job that took you an afternoon to do - use a two part epoxy paint.


----------



## pgmelton (Apr 19, 2011)

My comments about advice from form members comes from a very positive place. In the short time I have been posting, reading and applying what I have learned here has made me a better boat builder. Before last month I never new the real difference epoxy and resin. 

With respect to paint. I know nothing about it except what I have watched on Ship Shape T.V. It looks hard. I plan to go the epoxy/ paint path on my next project after I finish the 13 footer I am working on know. I have heard that paint is much harder (as a surface) than paint. Also most of my expert buddies (guys with 20 years of experience or more) all use paint. 

My biggest drawback with paint is that I don't prep to the level that I think paint requires. I can lay-up globs of gelcoat and then sand/buff till it looks like glass. Oh.. one last this I don't have a sprayer, though I here you get great results with a good roller and a moll hair brush. I will wait till the summer when I have more time to try paints.

thanks!!


----------



## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

If that is the case you will find a brand new friend with epoxy paint.


----------



## jms (Apr 21, 2011)

> Jsnipes,
> 
> A couple of things in play with respect to your post. Most of us that have started with bigger boats use resin based lamination. The most common top coat with resin is gel coat.
> 
> ...



a few things need clearing up here.
"resin" - resin is the liquid used to wet out - be it either polyester based,or,epoxy based 

"dura tec" , is not "added" to gel coat - it's applied to the surface - it's a primer/surfacer,it also acts as a "seperation coat",when applying gel coat-polyester based gel coat,over epoxy.duratec surfacer/primer is used to prep the surface before the finish coat is applied - duratec is a vinylester based product

"epoxy paint",i think perhaps this is referring to polyurethane paints - like awlgrip ?

gel coating - if you're not looking for a smooth,clean finish,with high gloss,use the gel coat - be sure to get air dry gel coat...


----------



## pgmelton (Apr 19, 2011)

Kreepa, the Duratec I was referring to is the item in the link below.
http://www.duratec1.com/dp07.html

The people at my local fiberglass shop told me that this product was added in to gelcoat to get a super hard, high gloss finish. That's why in our conversation in my post, I was so confused. 

Always appreciate your input Kreepa, thanks!


----------



## jms (Apr 21, 2011)

> Kreepa, the Duratec I was referring to is the item in the link below.
> http://www.duratec1.com/dp07.html
> 
> The people at my local fiberglass shop told me that this product was added in to gelcoat to get a super hard, high gloss finish.  That's why in our conversation in my post, I was so confused.
> ...



that's a gloss enhanser


----------



## jsnipes (May 1, 2011)

I really appreciate all the informative posts. Thanks for all of the info. I am going to order the gas shocks and some new hinges on Monday and then hopefully figure out what type of 
paint/epoxy to use and get this done the following week.


----------



## jsnipes (May 1, 2011)

Just finally got around to ordering new hinges from gemlux and some taylor 60lb gas shocks that should be here next week. 

Time to decide on a paint for good. Rereading these posts and still a little confused as to what I should do. All the stuff should arrive next week sometime and I would like to do everything next Sunday.

Anyone have any good reccomendations on spraying the paint vs brush painting? I have never done either so whichever is going to be the easiest to get a good look from is what I would like to do. Still wavering between a light blue and a light gray for the color I would like on inside of the hatch.


----------



## jsnipes (May 1, 2011)

Also, just to contain all of my questions here, there are some dings/scratches/cracks in the gelcoat and some fiberglass exposed (not much) on parts of the hatch and deck.  I just bought some 'Gelcoat Scratch Repair' from West Marine and was going to use that to try and patch things up before i start the paint process. Are there any superior products that I should use instead?

And now, light blue is out. Just doesn't make sense. Either a light blue or a very stark white I think is going to be the play.


----------



## kaioticone (Aug 1, 2010)

Hey Jsnipes28,

I'm getting ready to paint under my rear hatch as well. Here is what I've done so far:


Removed everything that could possibly get in the way, I'm also rewiring the boat and putting new controls and steering cables so this made this rather easy.
Thoroughly cleaned the deck and bulkheads
Items left to do:

Sand the areas to be painted
Clean thoroughly again
Purchase a small can of Awlgrip HS, standard color "cloud white"
http://www.awlgrip.com/support/colorcards/Pages/ColorCards.aspx
Purchase a can of Krylon Webbing (black)
http://www.krylon.com/products/webbing_spray/
I'm going to apply the Awlgrip with a paint brush. I am not overly concerned with a "gloss" finish, as this compartment will later be re-filled with USGC needed equipment, a cast net, other odds and ends. Once the Awlgrip has cured, I will take the Krylon, and apply the splatter pattern to the paint, so it matches the front hatch. 

I hope this helps.


----------



## jsnipes (May 1, 2011)

Finally got around to doing everything this weekend. Amazing how long it takes from the inception of the idea and plan to actually executing and finishing it. I decided on Petit Easypoxy as my paint. Had a knowledgeable guy at the boatyard as well as one other guy recommend it. I bought a quart of Mist Gray colored Easypoxy from West Marine and it was $40 iirc.

There were a ton of mysterious screws and places where screws used to be throughout the inside of the hatch so I first had to remove them all (which was surprisingly arduous as they were all stripped) and then filled them all w/ epoxy.
Sanding was absolutely miserable. Especially craning and positioning myself to get back into the recesses of the hatch and what not. Used 80 grit, then cleaned all the residue and other crap out w a rag and some acetone and then painted. Thought about doing a 2nd coat but I was pretty happy with the way it looked and it is just the inside of a hatch after all. The gas shocks I bought were definitely too long (and probably too powerful--of course that's what Maverick told me to buy when I called them, go figure) so couldn't install them just yet. Also added some Weather Seal foam strip to the hatch to try and keep things a little drier. And I bouight a new battery tray and moved it all the way to the right to try and just clean things up (not worried about the weight).

Anyways, thanks for the tips everyone. Here are the final pictures. Not a professional job, but not bad for my first time ever attempting something like this. Pretty pleased overall.

Final pic w/ battery and trays and most screws out








































I also repainted the undersides of all the other hatch covers on the boat but didn't paint the insides of the hatches since they are just the rope locker/baitwell/oil and parts hatches
Rope Locker Cover








Baitwell Cover








New Hinges I used on the Baitwell and main hatch. Not perfect as you can see but they seem sufficient.


----------



## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Looks like a professional job to me. Congrats.


----------



## mark_gardner (Mar 18, 2009)

nice job dude, looks like a pro did it


----------



## jsnipes (May 1, 2011)

thanks guys! replacing the gunnel carpets and adding a bench cushion this week, should be like new!


----------



## prinjm6 (May 13, 2015)

jsnipes said:


> thanks guys! replacing the gunnel carpets and adding a bench cushion this week, should be like new!


I know this is a old thread but I have to ask did you spray or brush the paint? It looks sprayed.


----------

