# Conchfish16 Jupiter, FL Start to Finish



## kamakuras (Feb 23, 2012)

Here is the short version of my build. It was a lot of fun, work, frustration and reward. I have never built a boat before. In 2017 I did build a cedar canoe and learned some basics. Chris Morejohn and the guys down in Broward that build a much nicer Conchfish than mine provided much support. I learned a lot and knowing what I know now could build a better skiff in less time for much less money. I started this project as a skiff for my friends and me to sight fish super shallow water in the Glades. I lost site of how simple I wanted this skiff to be but sold my Marquesa along the way and found out my wait for my next guide boat was going to be longer than expected so had to add some things to make it fishable in deep water in my home area, ie. trolling motor and more gear storage. The TM will be removed along with the second battery when not in use. When I take my next crack at this it will be the 17.5 version and will probably build in poly in the milder months to save cost. I have been experimenting with poly while waiting for the boat to be painted and am working on a set up gutter and hatch molds that can drop in a Conchfish or other similar skiff. Mostly because when you finish a project like this you have a void to fill having worked on something almost everyday for over a year and how fiberglass molds are made is very interesting to me.

The skiff is built mostly according to Chris' specs. 3/4" core, 3 layers of 10oz inside and out with epoxy resin. Chris' plans call for 1/4" solid glass for the chines. I substituted 1/4" Coosa. *I would not do this again. *I would use the same core on the hull or now that I know where to get it, 1/4" fiberglass stock sheets. The transom and stringer are Coosa and I would use it again for those parts. Not necessary but its my boat. The bulkheads are Coosa I did this thinking I was going to do open bullheads for added structural strength, since that didn't happen I wish I had not and saved the weight. I ended up with left over Coosa material and used it because it was there on other parts and I was running out of 3/4 core. The deck edges as I made them required additional strength just being 3 layers of 10oz. I had 1708 tape around and used one layer in the deck edge along with the three interior layers and it was perfect for the added strength I wanted. The deck is laminated in 17oz bias and 10oz. My choice. The hardest part of the build for me was glassing the inside and outside of the transom. That is just inexperience though. I made mistakes along the way and had hurdles but using common sense and walking in circles around it in the shop for hours was able to overcome. I had the boat professionally painted and had the hatches dropped in off existing molds. I also had professionally rigged. This was always the plan. This was a big expense but the final product is worth it but would attempt myself in the future to save money and time. I would still have it professionally rigged just because I suck at wiring and Justin who did it is THE MAN. Glasser Boatworks did the paint and hatches and helped with some laminate issues I had on the deck. The tower was made by Chris at Blue Point Fabricators.

I am very happy with the final product. It is a great design. It poles effortlessly, turns with no slide, has no hull slap in any of the angles I put it in, stable and runs quickly and predictably. Draft fully loaded gear, 15gal fuel, with Tm and two people 6". Light load, full fuel no TM 5". Top steed with stock prop light load 37, loaded 35, waiting for Powertech Prop. Thanks to everyone for the interest. Nothing left to do but fish the sucker now.


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

Beautiful! I've been following on IG -- just a fantastic build. Thanks for sharing a few "lessons learned" with us too. I'm not even halfway through planking and I've already got a couple as well.

Can't believe how nice she sits, even with a 50 on a jackplate and someone on the back deck. Makes me worry mine will sit a little stern-high, actually. The performance numbers are great too -- I bet 37 feels crazy fast in a small skiff like that.

Hopefully I'll get to check her out in person one of these days. Keep posting any pictures you've got!


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## kamakuras (Feb 23, 2012)




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## kamakuras (Feb 23, 2012)




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## kamakuras (Feb 23, 2012)

bryson said:


> Beautiful! I've been following on IG -- just a fantastic build. Thanks for sharing a few "lessons learned" with us too. I'm not even halfway through planking and I've already got a couple as well.
> 
> Can't believe how nice she sits, even with a 50 on a jackplate and someone on the back deck. Makes me worry mine will sit a little stern-high, actually. The performance numbers are great too -- I bet 37 feels crazy fast in a small skiff like that.
> 
> Hopefully I'll get to check her out in person one of these days. Keep posting any pictures you've got!


Thanks man, I think a 30 is just fine for this skiff. I will really appreciate the extra speed though with a storm on my butt or getting a few more minutes fishing in a tournament. I also just like to go fast. I am not used to being that low and in such a small skiff at those speeds but, at top speed it is totally predictable and easy to drive. Unlike my Shadowcast 16 which was a great skiff but you really had to pay attention driving that thing. My wife is also leaning to one side in that pic, it really sites very nice even with the added weight and offset from the JP.


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## Fritz (Jan 17, 2017)

Kamakuras I’m so impressed! Really beautiful and, like Bryson, I can’t believe how high she seems to sit with all that weight.

How does this ‘drop in hatch’ work? Can you just buy that, incorporate into the deck mold and get it to come out flush? Seems to good to be true and those are really nice looking hatches.

Did you make up that Conchfish sticker?

Really great stuff man.


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## kamakuras (Feb 23, 2012)

Thank you Fritz! On the hatches same way mine was done. The deck was built with no hatches then cut out the size of the pre made hatch and glass and fair in. This can be done in two ways that I have seen. Build and glass the deck first like I did (I did this because originally I was doing with hatches), or as the team in Pompano did was to make the deck out of core add the hatches then glass the whole thing on the boat. You can check out their build on IG @conchfish16, they also made the logo and decals. Or follow Chris' method on his blog post for building a one off deck and hatches and do everything at the same time.


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## Chris Morejohn (May 12, 2014)

This thread and the others should just be put into a new colum on Micro skiff along with other only using plans builds. Great bunch of photos showing the process. Thanks for posting.

I will say that she is floating well because even though you built her heavier than my plans show the CONCHFISH skiffs are soooooo much lighter than any of the Hells Bay Whiprays, Gordon skiffs of similar hull shape because she and the others are built by hand. You used epoxy resin. No other skiff is built this way except Hal’s first few skiffs. 
The CF skiffs are lighter and just as strong as needed because of the one off layup you can do by building this way. You have more control of the layup and all details.

I would not use the coosa board anywhere in the build as the core will be strong enough. But it’s fine to use if you have it. using biaxel cloth on bulkheads is not needed as they are just in compression. As long as they are filleted to the hull all round and to the deck all they need is 1 layer of 7-10 oz. cloth. If you want an open access in the bulkhead just cut out the opening and on the edge paint on a mixture of 100% silica in resin that is as thick as mayonnaise with a small brush. It makes a very strong and dent free edge covering to the core.
If you build her to weigh 300 lbs she will not need a big engine, but you can always fill her up with gear.
Great job


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## Chris Beutel (May 2, 2018)

Really nice build!! She turned out absolutely amazing.


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## Pole Position (Apr 3, 2016)

Just to echo what the others have said....I can't get over how yours and all the others are floating on their lines--really pretty. Congrats on a job well done...


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## Pole Position (Apr 3, 2016)

Fritz said:


> Did you make up that Conchfish sticker?
> 
> Really great stuff man.


https://www.microskiff.com/threads/conchfish-16.51470/page-34

scroll down a bit...

Hi. 

My name is Eric Kimes. I'm part of the wood core Conchfish 16 build in Pompano Beach. The wood core skiff is being built by a group of friends all working together. 

We got a Conchfish 16 logo design together. The design has been approved by Chris Morejohn. I attached pictures of the decals and tee shirt colors. Prices are as follows: Decal (either color) $11.00 / Short Sleeve Tee Shirt $20.00 / Long Sleeve Tee Shirt $25.00. The shirt colors and decal colors are shown in the attachment. These prices are before shipping. We aren't making money on the orders, just paying the cost for materials and set up at the shirt printer. Orders are being taken through Saturday October 13, 2018. Please indicate your size, short or long sleeve, and color. Payment by paypal if you want them shipped or cash with local pickup in the Pompano Beach FL area. My cell is 919-432-7112 if you want to send me a text. 

You can follow our wood core build on Instagram. The IG account we update to is @conchfish16 
facebook is Conchfish 16 Build Team

Sincerely, 
Eric


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## FireTurtle (Apr 27, 2019)

This is an amazing skiff looking skiff. I just started following you & Chris on IG the other day. It's great to see all the progress pics here though in one place. Love the color & if I ever build a one off skiff from scratch for myself, it's going to be a Conchhfish.


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

kamakuras said:


> Thank you Fritz! On the hatches same way mine was done. The deck was built with no hatches then cut out the size of the pre made hatch and glass and fair in. This can be done in two ways that I have seen. Build and glass the deck first like I did (I did this because originally I was doing with hatches), or as the team in Pompano did was to make the deck out of core add the hatches then glass the whole thing on the boat. You can check out their build on IG @conchfish16, they also made the logo and decals. Or follow Chris' method on his blog post for building a one off deck and hatches and do everything at the same time.


You did an amazing job, absolutely beautiful. Love the color, can you tell me which paint, and what the color is. Thanks, Mike


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## kamakuras (Feb 23, 2012)

The colors are Haze Grey and Pearl Grey. The paint is Awlcraft and Awlgrip.


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## sidelock (Jan 31, 2011)

How difficult was it to achieve the rolled edge instead of a straight sheer and to fit the cap to it ? When you traced the cap template to the rolled edge, how much space did you allow for the thickness of the cap glass and did you end up with a tight fit between the rolled edge and the cap edge ?


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## EasternGlow (Nov 6, 2015)

pretty sure I saw this skiff in flamingo at the ramp a few weekends ago. Beautiful skiff!


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## DBStoots (Jul 9, 2011)

Very nice, congratulations!


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## kamakuras (Feb 23, 2012)

sidelock said:


> How difficult was it to achieve the rolled edge instead of a straight sheer and to fit the cap to it ? When you traced the cap template to the rolled edge, how much space did you allow for the thickness of the cap glass and did you end up with a tight fit between the rolled edge and the cap edge ?


Not difficult. It was made while glassing the hull with an extra layer of 1708 tape in there to bulk it up. Made a jig 2.5” around the hull out of pvc trim board. The the radius with clay, waxed and glassed. When the hull was flipped the three layers of glass inside were also continued over the deck edge. The cap template was made 1/4” larger than the edge of the hull. After glass this left about 1/8” gap. Next time around I would oversize my cap 5/8” to leave a 1/4” gap which when bonded to the hull would be filled with putty.


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## kamakuras (Feb 23, 2012)

EasternGlow said:


> pretty sure I saw this skiff in flamingo at the ramp a few weekends ago. Beautiful skiff!


Thank you that was my wife and I we down there and 10k Islands all last week breaking her in.


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

kamakuras said:


> Not difficult. It was made while glassing the hull with an extra layer of 1708 tape in there to bulk it up. Made a jig 2.5” around the hull out of pvc trim board. The the radius with clay, waxed and glassed. When the hull was flipped the three layers of glass inside were also continued over the deck edge. The cap template was made 1/4” larger than the edge of the hull. After glass this left about 1/8” gap. Next time around I would oversize my cap 5/8” to leave a 1/4” gap which when bonded to the hull would be filled with putty.


Curious -- what would you gain by having a larger gap to fill with putty? Just easier to make sure you get the whole thing filled without air pockets?


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## kamakuras (Feb 23, 2012)

In my mind I thought it would be easier to pipe any extra putty into a 1/4” gap than it was 1/8” to take care of just that problem yes. I can get a piping bag up in there. Also might be able to use screws instead of through bolts on the rubrail which I would have preferred.


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

kamakuras said:


> In my mind I thought it would be easier to pipe any extra putty into a 1/4” gap than it was 1/8” to take care of just that problem yes. I can get a piping bag up in there. Also might be able to use screws instead of through bolts on the rubrail which I would have preferred.


Interesting about the screws. I always thought I preferred through-bolting.

Question. What height and thickness is the cap flange to be able to fit the rubrail to? There are so many styles of rubrails it gets confusing.


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## kamakuras (Feb 23, 2012)

Sublime said:


> Interesting about the screws. I always thought I preferred through-bolting.
> 
> Question. What height and thickness is the cap flange to be able to fit the rubrail to? There are so many styles of rubrails it gets confusing.


It all depends on which rubrail. I use 2.5 trim boards to make the edges and then then they trimmed them down to what looked right with the rubrail. I want to say my rubrail is 1 5/8”


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## Chris Beutel (May 2, 2018)

What size and type (plastic or aluminum) of gas tank did you put in? I'm getting ready to start my build and wanted to do a permanent tank as well. Did you wall it off from the hatch opening? Since it is side vented I'm guessing it is not necessary. I'm sure you are going to get a ton of questions but it really is a beautiful build. Thanks!


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## kamakuras (Feb 23, 2012)

Thanks, it is 15 gallon powder coated aluminum made by Bluepoint Fabricators. It is not walled off. It is installed on an elevated shelf in front of the forward bulkhead.


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## sidelock (Jan 31, 2011)

kamakuras said:


> Not difficult. It was made while glassing the hull with an extra layer of 1708 tape in there to bulk it up. Made a jig 2.5” around the hull out of pvc trim board. The the radius with clay, waxed and glassed. When the hull was flipped the three layers of glass inside were also continued over the deck edge. The cap template was made 1/4” larger than the edge of the hull. After glass this left about 1/8” gap. Next time around I would oversize my cap 5/8” to leave a 1/4” gap which when bonded to the hull would be filled with putty.


So the finished rolled edge/flange is made up of three layers of 1708 continued from the outside skin/glass + one layer of 1708 tape and three layers of 1708 continued from the inside skin/glass for a total of 7 layers ? Or one layer of 1708 tape on the outside and three layers of glass from inside for a total of 4 ?
That must be considerably stronger and stiffer/rigid than just bonding to a sheer line.


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## kamakuras (Feb 23, 2012)

No it is 2 layers of 10oz from hull, 1 layer 1708 tape, third layer 10oz from hull. Flip hull and 3 more layers 10oz continued over from inside of hull. In Total 6 layers 10oz, one of 1708.


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## WC53 (Dec 2, 2015)

Very nice work


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## GaG8tor (Jul 8, 2019)

Very nice


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