# Yamaha 25 2 stroke anode



## Guest (Sep 14, 2018)

Buy a HG and pull the head, probably your safes bet to avoid damaging the block by drilling and/or pullin the old one out. Good time to clean the buildup from water jackets around the cylinders too.


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## Dadvocate (Jun 26, 2011)

Will I need to slightly resurface head on piece of glass with sandpaper on it using figure 8 pattern? Any idea what torque is for head bolts? Thanks for the advice.


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## Guest (Sep 15, 2018)

Squaring the head won’t do much good without doing the block side too. Just clean the surface thoroughly and check it with straight edge and feeler gauge to make sure it’s not tweeked “should be fine since the motor is running good and not why your pulling the head”. Not positive on torque spec off top of my head but it’ll be somewhere around 18-20lbft. I’ll try to dig up the actual torque tomorrow for ya.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Dadvocate said:


> Ran in to a little problem doing some service to a 2006 Yamaha 25ESH. I was trying to remove the anode on the starboard side it sits in a water jacket between the cylinders. I tried to drill and tap some threads so I could put a machine screw in and hopeful wiggle it out. Half of anode broke off. Anyone have a recommendation from this point. I remember reading how someone had pulled head and drove out from the back side.
> Hoping to not tear into it any farther.


That was me dude, it took me two hours for what should have been a 10min job. The motor was somewhat new to me so I also replaced the two gaskets while I was at it... but once you remove the head cover, it's very easy to take that stuck anode out...

https://www.microskiff.com/threads/change-your-internal-anodes.46511/


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## Dadvocate (Jun 26, 2011)

Gaskets came in. Head is stamped with 3 kg.m. Does First torque 10 ft-lb followed by Second torque of 21 ft-lb sound correct. In a pattern of
9 10 Top
5 6
1 2 Center of Head
4 3
8 7 Bottom

Best method of cleaning mineral deposits ie tool, chemical


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Buy a spray bottle of StarBrite Hull Bottom Cleaner. It’s diluted hydrochloric acid so make sure you rinse off anything painted it touches pretty quickly. Use a small wire brush to clean deposits out and rinse very well with water. I did the same coolant passage cleaning on my Yamaha 70 last year.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

I have the Yamaha service manual at the house, I’ll send what info it has when I can this evening.


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## Guest (Sep 19, 2018)

Dadvocate said:


> Gaskets came in. Head is stamped with 3 kg.m. Does First torque 10 ft-lb followed by Second torque of 21 ft-lb sound correct. In a pattern of
> 9 10 Top
> 5 6
> 1 2 Center of Head
> ...


That seams right. I always torque in 3 stages though, just how I was taught many moons ago. Smackdaddies suggestion is good for removing the crud!


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

My SELOC manual is only up to 2003


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## Guest (Sep 20, 2018)

Smack, the torque spec and sequence Dadvocate posted seems right to me.


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## Dadvocate (Jun 26, 2011)

Took the head off and was able to tap anode inward and pulled out from water passage between heads. Very little build up of deposits was able to wire brush out. Thanks for the advice was a not a hard task.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Forgot to mention this, but anyone cleaning their motor (water passages and heads when replacing gaskets) should use a brass wire brush, steel or ss will scratch up the aluminum block and or cause leaks...


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

yobata said:


> Forgot to mention this, but anyone cleaning their motor (water passages and heads when replacing gaskets) should use a brass wire brush, steel or ss will scratch up the aluminum block and or cause leaks...


I used a few small Harbor Freight brass wire brushes when I cleaned mine, thought I may need the SS to get some of the crud loose but it came off fine after a few seconds of acid soaking.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Well, reading this thread got me motivated to replace both of my gaskets again, last time I didn't have/use a torque wrench and noticed a bit of salt deposit on the seam where the gaskets sit. So I unbolt everything, clean it all up, set the new gaskets in, set my new torque wrench to 10ft-lb and POP broke the bolt about halfway... I thought 10ft-lb was very light pressure (it's the lowest setting on this torque wrench) fuhhhhhhhq


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## Guest (Oct 4, 2018)

yobata said:


> Well, reading this thread got me motivated to replace both of my gaskets again, last time I didn't have/use a torque wrench and noticed a bit of salt deposit on the seam where the gaskets sit. So I unbolt everything, clean it all up, set the new gaskets in, set my new torque wrench to 10ft-lb and POP broke the bolt about halfway... I thought 10ft-lb was very light pressure (it's the lowest setting on this torque wrench) fuhhhhhhhq
> View attachment 43914
> View attachment 43916
> View attachment 43918
> View attachment 43920


Well, that sucks! I will reccomend ordering and replacing all head bolts now


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Do you think there was an issue with the torque wrench being not properly calibrated??

What's the chance a left-hand drill/ez out will be able to back this thing out?


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Well, that was easy, I removed it with a pair of pliers!!! Without very much effort either!

How did that bolt break so easily, yet the broken off part came out very easy?!


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## Guest (Oct 4, 2018)

Center punch it and try a lh bit. Looks like there might be enough bolt for some vise grips


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## Guest (Oct 4, 2018)

That happens sometimes. The hole was clean, bolt weak, once bolt broke there was no pressure on the threads!


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Boatbrains said:


> That happens sometimes. The hole was clean, bolt weak, once bolt broke there was no pressure on the threads!


I'm still a bit worried about the calibration of the torque wrench. How do I make sure that it functions properly?? It's brand new


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## Guest (Oct 4, 2018)

You can do 10lbft with your fingertips on that wrench. What brand is it? Just curious.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Boatbrains said:


> You can do 10lbft with your fingertips on that wrench. What brand is it? Just curious.


Tekton and no, I tried to grab the square drive with a wrench at the 10ft-lb setting and I couldn't get it to "click"


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## Guest (Oct 4, 2018)

If you can’t make it click at 10lbs by trying with a wrench then that torque wrench is defective!!! 10lbs is so light that I use and inch lbs wrench and multiply.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Boatbrains said:


> If you can’t make it click at 10lbs by trying with a wrench then that torque wrench is defective!!! 10lbs is so light that I use and inch lbs wrench and multiply.


I just tried it with a pair of channel locks and it clicked at the 10lb setting... maybe I wasn't gripping it good before. But I'm still at a loss as to how such a low setting snapped that bolt?! I am ordering a new set of headbolts tomorrow


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## Guest (Oct 4, 2018)

Bolt could have been compromised. Or you might not have felt it click even, it happens!


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## Gervais (Nov 28, 2016)

I’ve had one of those type of torque wrench’s “stick” on me one time. I tested it on a bolt in a vise and got it to work again. You can easily check them with some weights and a vise. There is tons of info on YouTube.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

yobata said:


> I'm still a bit worried about the calibration of the torque wrench. How do I make sure that it functions properly?? It's brand new


Use that big bastard for big stuff and buy a Craftsman digital torque wrench. I have the Tekton and use it to wrench on lift kits, lug nuts etc. I got the Craftsman for more delicate diesel mechanic work on injector and motor work. 
I’d pull all the block bolts and replace with new ones, it will be cheaper than breaking one off below the hole where you end up having a machine shop get it out or ruin your block attempting it yourself. 
Any time I pull block bolts I heat the heads with a micro butane torch and let them cool several times then back them out. This will break the crud free before any more issues arise. Watch adding any neverseez to these bolts because most neverseez or antiseize has copper or silver powder in it and you’ll cause dissimilar metal corrosion inside the threaded hole. Lubricants will also affect the torque factor of the fasteners. This goes for vehicle and trailer lug nuts and studs as well!


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## Guest (Oct 5, 2018)

Like Smackdaddy53 said, do not add anything to the bolts except and only maybe... a little light oil to the theads and then wipe them so they won’t drip. In other words only enough light oil for a very thin film!


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## flyclimber (May 22, 2016)

Boatbrains said:


> That happens sometimes. The hole was clean, bolt weak, once bolt broke there was no pressure on the threads!


Unless you galled the threads....

Bolt was probably just weak!


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## Guest (Oct 5, 2018)

freeclimber said:


> Unless you galled the threads....
> 
> Bolt was probably just weak!


Yes. I was just explaining why it removed easily.


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