# 1979 14' Ashcraft Rebuild



## leel33ml (Dec 7, 2014)

Hello all,
I have wanted to rebuild a skiff for a long time now. I finally purchased a 1979 Ashcraft. It is an incredibly good looking boat. I really like the lines. It came with a decent trailer and a title so that was a good start. My plan is to make a simple flats skiff with front and rear decks.
The bad is the transom needed replaced and the stringers were questionable. I have started demolition and indeed the stringers need to be replaced. I will continue to update as I go along.
I have a question about plywood selection. I think I found a good source of Meranti marine ply about 2 hrs from my house in Tampa. The current transom is about 1 1/2 in. Could I get away with buying only 3/4 ply and sandwhiching two pieces for the transom? Then also using 3/4 For the stringers, bulkhead, and decks?
Thanks much and I look forward to posting more.
Michael


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## leel33ml (Dec 7, 2014)

Oh and the plan for the engine is to either get a 25 hp tiller or get a 40hp and put a little side console.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

Yes, you can stack two 3/4" pieces of ply for a total of 1.5"

Please use epoxy, not polyester resin.

Also, 3/4" may be overkill for bulkheads/decks/sole. I used 3/8" for that stuff (glass on both sides)


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## leel33ml (Dec 7, 2014)

I see. I think I should be able to get both sizes. I definitely want to build it light but sturdy.
I was thinking about getting the west system epoxy for the ease of use.


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## Gamecock89 (May 30, 2015)

Awesome another ashcraft! Nearing completion on mine. I used 1/2 fir for the transom with four laminates. Way over kill. Doubled 1/2 fir for the stringers. Way overkill. 1/2 fir for bulkheads and 1/2 okoume for decks and soles. To do over I would use 3/4 doubles as transom with 3/4 stringers and 3/8 for decks and soles. Would have saved a lot of weight. I would also have used meranti or okoume throughout as it is much easier to work with. West system with cloth on both sides of everything and you will have yourself an awesome skiff! Keep us updated with lots of pictures.


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## millerrep (Apr 14, 2014)

This is cool 3 ashcrafts getting restored on the forum. Best luck. My 02 worth. The double 3/4 on the transom is standard. I used 1/2 fir ply on the bulkheads, with a 3/4 strip on the top for surface area to glue the decks. stringers are 3/4, cockpit sole is 1/2 fir, in put 3 intermeadiate transverse supports between the two main bulkheads under the deck. Running a 40 2 stroke merc on mine, goes nice. Still balancing the weight Expecting 36 mph with one fisherman. 

Is yours a 14 ?


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## leel33ml (Dec 7, 2014)

Yep mine is a 14'. How much cheaper is the fir? And where did you guys source it from? I know the marine ply I've been looking at is super expensive! The Okoume 3/4 is $194 in Orlando. I think the prices are better in Tampa but for the whole project it is going to be a pretty penny.


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## Gamecock89 (May 30, 2015)

Got mine local here in charleston area. Berlin g Meyers lumber in Summerville had the 1/2 for ~ $160 a sheet when I bought it. I want to say the fir was ~ $80/sheet. Fir would be heavier and maybe a little stronger and very rot resistant but after working with both the okoume is worth the price to me. It’s a dream to work with. Building/restoring a boat isn’t cheap. Plan to spend 2-3x the money you think and add 3-4x the amount of time you think. In the long run you aren’t going to save money doing it the right way but for me it is a great hobby and extremely rewarding.


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

https://plywood.boatbuildercentral.com/proddetail.php?prod=PL_Okoume_BS1088


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## leel33ml (Dec 7, 2014)

Gamecock89 said:


> Got mine local here in charleston area. Berlin g Meyers lumber in Summerville had the 1/2 for ~ $160 a sheet when I bought it. I want to say the fir was ~ $80/sheet. Fir would be heavier and maybe a little stronger and very rot resistant but after working with both the okoume is worth the price to me. It’s a dream to work with. Building/restoring a boat isn’t cheap. Plan to spend 2-3x the money you think and add 3-4x the amount of time you think. In the long run you aren’t going to save money doing it the right way but for me it is a great hobby and extremely rewarding.


Yes I came into this knowing that it would be a big project. I recently sold my bigger bay boat as we were building a house. Now I have no boat and haven't been fishing so I decided I needed something to do!
Today I put in a few hours chiseling away at the old transom and grinding a good portion of the word still stuck to the skin.
I ordered up my epoxy and some 1700 and tape for fiberglass. I also ordered chop strand and fumed silica for the fillets. I'm excited to try this out as I have no experience with fiberglass! Uh oh!


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## leel33ml (Dec 7, 2014)

Some pics of the transom area


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## millerrep (Apr 14, 2014)

Pretty serious demo for a 14. If I built one from scratch I'd probably use Okoume for its consistency, flexibility it handles well. But you have to fair some no matter what is used. For rehab I stick with fir ply and fir 1/ by for framing. Keep in mind loose joints for glue not tight miters. I ripped 1/6 into 3 pieces and framed most of the skiff with that. I' had less than $ 600 in wood. 5 sheets of 1/2 in and I think 4 8 ft 1/6 and 1 12 ft 1/6 clear fir. 

Your skiff is different, no rolled edge, so its better suited for gunnels. I did a couple like that years back. You can sandwich that sheer between to sheer clamps, this gives a bit of an extension off the hull so the the rubrail is off the skiff a bit. Easier to finish I think. May help if the top edge is wavy. Best luck on it. These ars good little boats!!


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## leel33ml (Dec 7, 2014)

Had a few good sessions grinding and sanding the outside transom skin in prep for the transom. I am going to be picking up marine ply from Bedard Yacht north of Tampa. I spoke with the guy who runs it and he was very helpful.

I have a question for below the false floor. It is going to be a small space. I would guess a maximum of two inches in the largest space which is in the midline of the boat. Would you guys suggest incorporating drainage between the stringers and bulkheads and a rear drain? Or just foaming it and sealing it off to be waterproof below the deck?


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## Gamecock89 (May 30, 2015)

Tough question. I went through the same delima building mine. Ended up foaming the outer sections between the two outer stringers and hull side and allowing drainage under the floor in the center. My thought was that water is going to eventually get in. I raised the soles in my build though so there is a considerable bilge. I just have a hard time having an area below the waterline completely sealed off with no way to inspect it without cutting a hole in the boat. Others on here may feel differently but that is my $.02


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## millerrep (Apr 14, 2014)

Hmmm I don't get the dimension of 2 inches. I did mine with drains or cutouts at the lowest point of all the of all transverse support under the main deck. My deck is 7 inches max off the boat hull in the center. I left a sump in the motor well with threaded schedule 80 pvc drains to the under deck area. Want it dry but need to be able to open to drain just in case. Some guys foam solid, I just really didn't want too, so I uses sheet goods and fitted the foam.


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## leel33ml (Dec 7, 2014)

Thanks for all of the advice guys. It is invaluable. I went and got a bunch of plywood from Bedard Yacht design. He was a really nice guy who actually does youtube videos.
I am ready to bond in the transom. My plan is to make a template then cut three pieces of 1/2" ply and bond them all with thickened epoxy with chopped strand and fumed silica. I plan on using the thickened epoxy to bond the transom to outer skin of the boat. I will then fiberglass over to recreate the inner skin with 1700 biaxial glass. 
How do I get the inner skin to have a smooth transition to the outer glass skin? I will need to go up and over to seal the top cap but then I will be doubling up new fiberglass onto the old skin? Do I need to grind away some of the outer skin and kind of taper it?


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## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

leel33ml said:


> Thanks for all of the advice guys. It is invaluable. I went and got a bunch of plywood from Bedard Yacht design. He was a really nice guy who actually does youtube videos.
> I am ready to bond in the transom. My plan is to make a template then cut three pieces of 1/2" ply and bond them all with thickened epoxy with chopped strand and fumed silica. I plan on using the thickened epoxy to bond the transom to outer skin of the boat. I will then fiberglass over to recreate the inner skin with 1700 biaxial glass.
> How do I get the inner skin to have a smooth transition to the outer glass skin? I will need to go up and over to seal the top cap but then I will be doubling up new fiberglass onto the old skin? Do I need to grind away some of the outer skin and kind of taper it?


I would not grind away a lot of the outer skin, just enough to ensure proper bond. You can just fair that surface later, or even use a different cloth there that is more smooth like 6oz or 10oz woven fabric


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## millerrep (Apr 14, 2014)

Good question, I wrapped both layers of 1708 over the top of the transom, and trimmed it with razor knife just when is was pretty hard, and fared it with epoxy mix. This way you have a pretty clean line and little sanding. Something I do when layering the plywood is, drill holes in the plywood, for the resin and glue to have a path to migrate to. 
this helps in getting air out of the sandwich, and also give you little cylinders of glue and resin.


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## Cut Runner (Jan 25, 2017)

Good advice above. I personally would do 2 layers of 1/2in. But i would prebond both sheets together with a layer of 17oz glass between the sheets with the axis going vertically. I would also have the wood cut so that the inside sheet of wood (up against transom skin) has the grain going horizontal, and the outer sheet has the grain going vertical. Then i would do 3 layers of 17oz going vertical, horizontal, vertical axis in that order, finish the edges with chopped strand matt with the edges torn to save time grinding and fairing. 
That laminate schedule with epoxy will be all that boat would ever need. SAVE WEIGHT AT THE TRANSOM BY ALL MEANS!


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## SilentHunter (Jun 14, 2010)

I guess I’m the only guy who’s doing all composite ashcraft rebuild? Y’all have some nice wooden boats! I’m going for lightweight never retain water route


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## Tonyskiff (Jan 7, 2018)

Hey mate any updates?


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## leel33ml (Dec 7, 2014)

Sorry guys progress has been slow. I started grad school in the spring and I am working full time as well. It is coming along though! 
I was able to bond in the transom and glass it. The picture of the inside isn't the most recent. I have it close to being ready for the stringers. The next big undertaking will be figuring out how to recreate the stringers. There has been a lot of previous repairs and there weren't any traditional style stringers to go by.


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## Tonyskiff (Jan 7, 2018)

I couldn’t figure out plywood method so I did this. I’ve been using my boat for about 2 month now. Top speed 41mph. Slamming heavy on wake chop sometimes. no gelcoat cracks she been holding firm no issues. I used 8lb density foam. Each stringer is 2” wide and glassed over twice with 1708. What are you gonna do for top cap?


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## leel33ml (Dec 7, 2014)

I'm going to post a link to this boats craiglist ad. As bad as I would love to finish this life has gotten in the way in a major way. I have three jobs and I am in grad school. No time to work on this. Willing to part with everything for $650 including boat with title, plywood, and some fiberglass supplies.

https://orlando.craigslist.org/boa/d/tavares-14-ft-ashcraft-project-and/6982186922.html


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