# Filling Transom Holes Below Waterline



## ZaneD (Feb 28, 2017)

I've got a Carolina skiff that currently has Smart Tabs installed by the previous owner. Well I'm not a big fan of them and I'd like to remove them, however that's going to leave 10-12 1/4" holes in the transom down below the water line. The transom is Coosa board core with fiberglass over it in case that matters. 

1. Do I fill with Marine Tex and sand it smooth? 
2. Do I try to fill holes with small dowels and epoxy or Marine tex? 
3. Do I need a pro to repair this? 

Any insight is appreciated. 

Thanks!


----------



## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

My boats have all been with ITEM (1).
Race boats use marine tex to build torque tabs on lower units, also fill in around nose cones and low water pickups on lower units


----------



## houndog (Jun 20, 2016)

If I were doing it, I would use a water-loving epoxy putty like: http://allfixepoxy.com/
Jam it into the holes, let it set, sand and touch up...much easier to work with than epoxy.


----------



## ZaneD (Feb 28, 2017)

Marine-tex is and epoxy product, correct? So the putty would be like a thicker version similar to the JB weld products that come in a tube?


----------



## FSUDrew99 (Feb 3, 2015)

ZaneD said:


> Marine-tex is and epoxy product, correct? So the putty would be like a thicker version similar to the JB weld products that come in a tube?



I filled some holes from my power pole with Marine Tex and also using a small diameter wooden dowel to help with packing in the Marine Tex in with.


Marine Tex is easy to work with. Mix it, work it like putty and you can wet your hands to smooth out. I left mine a 1/8 inch below the gel coat surface and then applied gel coat over it to match the boat.

Perfect for below water and above the water line applications.


----------



## ZaneD (Feb 28, 2017)

FSUDrew99 said:


> I filled some holes from my power pole with Marine Tex and also using a small diameter wooden dowel to help with packing in the Marine Tex in with.
> 
> 
> Marine Tex is easy to work with. Mix it, work it like putty and you can wet your hands to smooth out. I left mine a 1/8 inch below the gel coat surface and then applied gel coat over it to match the boat.
> ...


I do have a can of gel coat but I've never used it. What's the best method to apply a thin coat and get it smooth/polished to match? I did use a tiny gel coat repair kit once that included a piece of flexible plastic that you were supposed to put over the repair to smooth it out and then remove once it dried. Is that something I should consider?


----------



## yobata (Jul 14, 2015)

ZaneD said:


> I do have a can of gel coat but I've never used it. What's the best method to apply a thin coat and get it smooth/polished to match? I did use a tiny gel coat repair kit once that included a piece of flexible plastic that you were supposed to put over the repair to smooth it out and then remove once it dried. Is that something I should consider?


Just use clear packing tape. The epoxy will not stick to it. I would assume that gel coat will also not stick to it, but you can do a small sample on a piece of cardboard to be sure.


----------



## ZaneD (Feb 28, 2017)

yobata said:


> Just use clear packing tape. The epoxy will not stick to it. I would assume that gel coat will also not stick to it, but you can do a small sample on a piece of cardboard to be sure.


So the poly/packing tape trick will work with marine tex and it won't stick? That sounds like it could be my best route.


----------



## FSUDrew99 (Feb 3, 2015)

Ok so apply the marine Tex. You don't need to put any wax paper or plastic over it since it's not like gel coat and does not need to cure under wax paper better than in open air. 

Apply marine Tex like mentioned before. Try and keep it lower than the gelcoat about 1/4". Come back and sand down any areas with a dremel or another tool if you have high spots on filling the initial hole and to roughen the area up prior to cleaning with acetone so that the gelcoat will adhere better. 

Apply the gelcoat. Nice and thick and try to not get any bubbles in the mix. Don't over apply but a nice smooth area that is heavier application vs too thin. You can always sand down. 

Apply it and cover it/ spread it out with wax paper to a good thickness and also feather all the edges of the gelcoat down close to flush with the existing gelcoat which makes it easy to blend once wet sanding. 

Wet sand up to 1500 grit. Compound and wax. Ideally with a buffer.

Done.


----------



## Mercuryproteam (Aug 20, 2015)

Fill the hole with a epoxy cabosil glass bead mix. Push through the holes with a plastic spreader until it comes out the back. Grind the area around the hole after it cures. Lay up glass to lock in the epoxy plug. Sand smooth and then spray color matched gel over the repair. Wet sand and high speed. Done. Currently filling 24 holes this way from a plowing platform.


----------

