# 14ft Queen Craft Skiff Restore



## taco29403 (Jun 16, 2015)

I picked up a 14ft skiff earlier this week. Plan is to sand it down, fix any fiberglass issues, reinforce the floor, new coat of paint and non skid along with engine (25hp 2 stroke), trailer, poling platform, lights, and possibly a few extras.

It looks like the previous owner added a layer of fiberglass on the floor over some old paint and it's starting to peel up. How should I deal with it? I'm also considering adding a false floor to strengthen the hull and allow for a small bilge area near the transom. Do you think this is worth the extra time, money and weight or should I just add a few layers of glass? Advice of which glass / resin combo I should lay down would be helpful.

Tiller or small side console? Boat is 14ft with a 60" beam, I like the very minimal side consoles on some boats but worried it will take up too much room on such a small boat. Plus just more work and time.

Finally, If you have any ideas on how to add a poling platform while also leaving room for the push pole let me know. I'm not a fan of the transom mounted platforms, just don't like the way they look but if that's the only option I have i can deal with it. I'd prefer to do something like this - http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=25p31vo&s=5#.VdYbX3j_RBU





































I don't have much fiberglass experience but I've watched videos and read articles so i'm confident I can handle the task. I'm located in Charleston, SC so if you have any recommendations for stores that I should be visiting to buy materials let me know.


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## DLBjaxbeach (Mar 12, 2011)

taco29403 said:


> I don't have much fiberglass experience but I've watched videos and read articles so i'm confident I can handle the task. I'm located in Charleston, SC so if you have any recommendations for stores that I should be visiting to buy materials let me know.


I got all the supplies (and a good bit of the education) on my build from boatbuildercentral.com They have good prices, and good tech support for the materials on the forum there. Also a ton of step by step instruction. 

Any of the glass over paint should probably come off. If it is glass over gelcoat, you may be ok just taking care of it where it is lifting. If you are doing a false floor, you could just grind away a couple strips of the glass maybe 6 inches wide. I would also take down the paint/gelcoat underneath so that you have a clean fiberglass surface to bond your stringers to. You will want to use epoxy, fiberglass and either wood or some type of foamcore for the stringers themselves. Avoid the poly resin. 

Cool looking boat. I like the look of it already. Lots of potential.


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## taco29403 (Jun 16, 2015)

Thanks for the resource, checking it out now.


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## Gamecock89 (May 30, 2015)

I get all of my products from Jamestown Distributors. Good variety with plenty of reviews and a lot of products have videos about how to use them. Shipping is fast and they have free shipping deals frequently. good looking skiff.


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## Gavin10202001 (Apr 9, 2014)

Epoxy will get expensive really quick, and all the other materials associated with epoxy (fairing compounds, primers, gelcoat) are pricey as well. A 14ft rebuild should be fine with poly or vinyl. Just my two cents from my rebuild.


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## taco29403 (Jun 16, 2015)

Realizing this project is probably going to take longer and cost a bit more than expected. Finally found a trailer, was looking for used but came across this new aluminum trailer for under $1K. Need to make a few adjustments to it. Found a boat yard that will let me work on it without costing me a fortune. Will begin sanding the interior and exterior this weekend.

The floor is very flexible. Still deciding if I should add a few layers of 1708 to give it strength or go the extra mile and add a false floor. Thoughts?


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## Gramps (Nov 1, 2007)

False floors are worth the effort. I won't own a skiff again without a flat floor. 

I am a fan of epoxy and mainly buy from boat builder central .com


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Floors are great ...if you know what your building and understand the materials being used.

Problem is, newbie overbuild everything and end up with a skiff weighing three times what it should.


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## taco29403 (Jun 16, 2015)

Started sanding today and uncovered the old logo outline. Queen Craft from Panama City, FL. Anyone know anything about these boats? Also made a deal on a 2 stroke 25hp Merc. from another site member, should push it along fairly well.


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## CurtisWright (May 9, 2012)

Is the hull cored? If so then you don't need a false floor or stringers. They are not worth the extra weight. Epoxy isn't necessary. Vinyl ester will be fine, poly will work too.

Are you pulling the cap off?


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## taco29403 (Jun 16, 2015)

It's not cored. The previous owner pulled out the deck b/t the transom and front bulkhead. Flexes quite a bit when standing on it. I was told the boat used to have 3 bench seats similar to a Mitchell or Johnsen and a few years ago the deck was added using Coosa board.


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

I wouldn't put a false floor in because it would add a lot of weight in a small boat IMO. I'd consider carefully sanding the floor down to good glass and adding a layer of mat with some ribs. This will still add weight, but not as much.

I like epoxy because it is pretty simple to figure out. I have not been impressed with people's first results with polyester resin. It also stinks.

Nate


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## Jl1115 (Sep 7, 2015)

Great boat I had 3 getting ready to do a rebuild on my soon as it cools downView media item 42View media item 43 down


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## Jl1115 (Sep 7, 2015)

My old one I sold View media item 46View media item 45View media item 44


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## taco29403 (Jun 16, 2015)

What size motor is that and how did it run?


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## Jl1115 (Sep 7, 2015)

Let me know if you have any questions


taco29403 said:


> What size motor is that and how did it run?


25 merc 30 mph


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## Gavin10202001 (Apr 9, 2014)

The hull of my skiff had a lot of flex in it. I ended up coring the bottom. This took a lot of research and test samples. The layup schedule for the whole hull bottom was three layers of 1708, 1.5 oz mat, Divilette Bedding Compound, 3/4" Divinycell H80 scored 1/8" with a circular saw, two more layers of 1708. It took about 10 gals of Marine ISO Poly. Just in resin alone was $220 if it would have been epoxy over $1,000. With bulkheads in, there is zero flex and the hull is still super light (my friend and I can pick it up not problem). If your going to do it, do it right. IMHO you could spend 4k on materials and have an epoxy and foam cored hull or you could take your time and use foam core and poly or vinyl and spend the money left over on electronics. Plus wetting out mat with epoxy will not dissolve the binders, it will still harden but will not be transparent and flexibility of the mat will be almost nonexistent while wet. Poly is really easy to figure out with ratio charts right off the internet all you need is a thermometer in your working area to know what % to mix, also do not try to glass in direct sunlight it will be a futile attempt at best unless it is a really small spot, but once you have wet the glass out move it into the sun and it will kick off like nobodies business. This will allow you to lower the ratio to 1% MEKP to resin and in the shade it will give you a longer pot life (working time) until it starts to gel, then apply a little sun and your good.


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## Gavin10202001 (Apr 9, 2014)

Just what I learned through trial and error, by no means am I an expert.


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## taco29403 (Jun 16, 2015)

Thanks for the helpful advice. At this point i'm just doing a ton of research and figuring out the best approach that works well with my skill set. Today I made a little headway, got almost the entire interior and top of the decks sanded. The non-skid has been a pain to remove but all I have left is a bit near the transom. Going to flip it this weekend and start sanding the bottom


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## taco29403 (Jun 16, 2015)

Finally feel like i've made a dent into this project. Sanded, glassed and faired areas on the bottom that needed work and put on a coat of primer. Will sand and add a 2nd coat before applying the topcoat. 









I'm thinking about doing a wood rub rail. Has anyone done this before and have recs on type of wood to use?


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## jrgrady (Oct 3, 2015)

Badass man. I love the front casting platform. I'm a vinyl resin fan as well. Never used Epoxy but thats just me. I personally would add a floor to that.


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## taco29403 (Jun 16, 2015)

jrgrady said:


> Badass man. I love the front casting platform. I'm a vinyl resin fan as well. Never used Epoxy but thats just me. I personally would add a floor to that.


Thanks man. My plan is to add a small floor section for strength/rigidity. Still not sure what material I'll use to make it.


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## paint it black (Nov 3, 2007)

taco29403 said:


> Thanks man. My plan is to add a small floor section for strength/rigidity. Still not sure what material I'll use to make it.


Nidacore is pretty easy to use, shouldn't add too much weight to it. The material I've used in the past to do floors was 6lb density foam board. I buy foam from a place in Miami (Hialeah to be exact) called Polyumac. I was able to get full sheets of the 6lb density foam for $22 each.


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## tomahawk (Mar 9, 2012)

As far as the wood rubrail goes, I'm in the process of doing it on a wrecked Gheenoe I'm rebuilding. Laminate 1/4" strips of Meranti. I also did the same on my GF16 build.

http://www.customgheenoe.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=27943


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## millerrep (Apr 14, 2014)

That' thing is cool, just clear coat the topside.


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## taco29403 (Jun 16, 2015)

tomahawk said:


> As far as the wood rubrail goes, I'm in the process of doing it on a wrecked Gheenoe I'm rebuilding. Laminate 1/4" strips of Meranti. I also did the same on my GF16 build.
> 
> http://www.customgheenoe.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=27943


thanks for the tip that looks like the solution.


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## taco29403 (Jun 16, 2015)

paint it black said:


> Nidacore is pretty easy to use, shouldn't add too much weight to it. The material I've used in the past to do floors was 6lb density foam board. I buy foam from a place in Miami (Hialeah to be exact) called Polyumac. I was able to get full sheets of the 6lb density foam for $22 each.


Thanks, that's a big help. I think i'll end up using 6lb foam.


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## taco29403 (Jun 16, 2015)

I found a small section of rotted wood in my transom and ended up removing everything as most of it was old and wet. Trying to decide on the best material to use for a replacement. I don't want to use plywood and leaning towards Coosa board. Anyone have other recommendations that is reasonably priced...under $200 a sheet.


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## paint it black (Nov 3, 2007)

taco29403 said:


> I found a small section of rotted wood in my transom and ended up removing everything as most of it was old and wet. Trying to decide on the best material to use for a replacement. I don't want to use plywood and leaning towards Coosa board. Anyone have other recommendations that is reasonably priced...under $200 a sheet.


I used a product called "SpaceAge" on the transom rebuild I did on my old Pro Sports skiff rebuild that I posted on here many years ago (circa 2009). It looks similar to coosa board. The way we did mine was cut the board into small squares 4x4" and individually glued them on to the transom skin using resin, then fillet'd over the seams and glassed over the hole thing. It turned out great, ensured it was completely secured with no voids. It was taught to us by a buddies father who owned Avenger Boats (an offshore open fisherman boat company).


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## Gramps (Nov 1, 2007)

Check out AquaPlas III. Boat Builder Central sells it for $177 per 4' x 8' x 1/2"sheet. They are located in Vero Beach, but that doesn't help you. Haha.

They can ship in smaller portions for a better price (2' x 4'), probably $50 to ship.


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## taco29403 (Jun 16, 2015)

Thanks - the AquaPlas III looks like a good option dependent on shipping fees and GelMagic.


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## taco29403 (Jun 16, 2015)

Progress has been slow due to work and travel. Took a trip to South America and Antartica but unfortunately never got to do any fishing while in SA. 

I debated whether to use wood or composite and decided the cost of composite was worth the peace of mind to know my transom won't be susceptible to rot. I ended up purchasing a sheet of Coosa Board from Jamestown Distributors (they cut the sheet in half which got shipping down to $20 from $90). Cut, shaped and glued it back in December and with some help from my Dad installed it in the boat today. Below are a few pictures. 

I added a piece of glass on the old skin yesterday then today we mixed up thickened epoxy resin using a silica thickener and applied it to both the old skin and the coosa board. Once it is dried I can go back and fill in all of the gaps around the edges with thickened epoxy. Might not be the best way to do it but should get the job done. 

Once I completely glass in the transom i'll add 3 layers of fiberglass to the floor, paint then take it for a test run and decide if I should add a false floor or leave it as is.


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## taco29403 (Jun 16, 2015)

Finally feel like I've made some substantial progress. Didn't think the sanding and fairing would end. Every time I came back to the boat i'd find something that needed attention. The floor received 2 layers 1708 and 2 layers of chop strand. Put 3 coats of epoxy primer and will flip tomorrow to start priming the exterior and then the top coat. 

Anyone have any recommendations for a flush mount bow light?


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## CodyW (Jan 26, 2016)

Sweet!! What did you paint it with, and how was it applied?


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## taco29403 (Jun 16, 2015)

CodyW said:


> Sweet!! What did you paint it with, and how was it applied?


Using TotalBoat 2 part epoxy primer to cover both exterior and interior using a roller. Interlux Brightside Light Blue with the roll and tip method and Interlux Interdeck for the non-skid.


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## CodyW (Jan 26, 2016)

taco29403 said:


> Using TotalBoat 2 part epoxy primer to cover both exterior and interior using a roller. Interlux Brightside Light Blue with the roll and tip method and Interlux Interdeck for the non-skid.


Is the interlux epoxy? I just looked it up and seen its polyurethane, If thats the case it will not stick to the epoxy primer.


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## taco29403 (Jun 16, 2015)

CodyW said:


> Is the interlux epoxy? I just looked it up and seen its polyurethane, If thats the case it will not stick to the epoxy primer.


No it's not. I spoke to a tech at Jamestown Distributors and they said as long as I sand with 80grit there shouldn't be any issues with the Brightside. I'll double check before I add the topcoat.

If anyone has experience with this let me know.


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## taco29403 (Jun 16, 2015)

She's getting there. Just need to mount the hardware and get the engine on. Has any every used or recommend a transom pad?


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## Whiskey Angler (Mar 20, 2015)

Hey! That looks fantastic! Well done.


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## taco29403 (Jun 16, 2015)

Whiskey Angler said:


> Hey! That looks fantastic! Well done.


Thanks man, the pain and misery is almost over and i'll finally be able to start fishing.


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## erikb85 (Jun 13, 2014)

Paint looks great man


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## tomahawk (Mar 9, 2012)

That really came out nice!


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## taco29403 (Jun 16, 2015)

I'm calling it done. Time to start fishing again. 








The before -


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## LowHydrogen (Dec 31, 2015)

Looks awesome, I like the layout.


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## Whiskey Angler (Mar 20, 2015)

Great build, man! It maintains that retro look, and the two tone and your finishing looks sharp!


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## ceejkay (May 7, 2016)

that looks excellent. the one thing i wish i would have done on mine are the walkable gunwales like you have.


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## taco29403 (Jun 16, 2015)

ceejkay said:


> that looks excellent. the one thing i wish i would have done on mine are the walkable gunwales like you have.


They are nice to have but luckily I didn't have to build them. Not sure if that time/money it would have taken to put them in would equal the benefits.


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## Finn Maccumhail (Apr 9, 2010)

Excellent work man!


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

That's one beautiful boat. You should be proud


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## taco29403 (Jun 16, 2015)

permitchaser said:


> That's one beautiful boat. You should be proud


Thank you.


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