# Yamaha 25 rough running (Video)



## truckermt (Feb 2, 2011)

My 1985 yamaha 25 runs very rough under load and will not build rpm. At idle the engine is rough and eventually dies on its own. I had a similar problem before and after changing the plugs the problem went away. I have cleaned the carb and it appears to be getting fuel. Could the ignition electronics be going bad? 

[media]http://s1109.photobucket.com/albums/h425/mttateo/?action=view&current=Video002.mp4[/media]

http://s1109.photobucket.com/albums/h425/mttateo/?action=view&current=Video002.mp4


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## truckermt (Feb 2, 2011)

Forgot to mention I have replaced the plugs again as well.


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

You've got an 1985 outboard, and wondering if the ignition electronics might have gone bad?
Odds are they have. Even new outboards from Yamaha only have a 6 year warranty.
That might be a pretty good indicator of what their engineers expect the electronics lifespan to be.


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## truckermt (Feb 2, 2011)

haha thats a very good point. Can you tell by the sound in the video if that could be the culprit though? Should i start by getting a spark tester and work my way up through the electronics?


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

If you plan to keep using it, you'd better learn how to use a volt/ohm meter
then test every circuit and compare to the specs in the Yamaha shop manual.


btw, I don't know enough to be able to diagnose by ear.
Only professionals can do that.
I'm just a barely competent amateur.
That pro staff under my name, that just means I try to avoid negative comments...


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## twitch (Mar 4, 2007)

Sounds like it is running on one cylinder. 

Were both plugs fouled or just one?

I'd start with a compression test, then a spark test....and work down the list of usual suspects.


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## truckermt (Feb 2, 2011)

The bottom plug is the ashy one. Last time the motor acted up like this, around a month ago, the mechanic replaced the plugs and it ran fine. He did a compression test and both cylinders were 120.


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## truckermt (Feb 2, 2011)




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## twitch (Mar 4, 2007)

I'd look real close at the ignition components for that fouled cylinder/plug. Possibly a weak spark.

I'd also check your fuel pump. Unbolt it from the block and pump the primer ball, if any fuel comes out of the back of the pump it needs to be replaced or rebuilt. A faulty pump can flood a cylinder via the pulse port and foul the plug.


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## truckermt (Feb 2, 2011)

Thank you i will check that out later today. When i remove the pump do i need to be careful pumping the primer or can i do it as usual.


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## twitch (Mar 4, 2007)

just like you normally would.


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## truckermt (Feb 2, 2011)

I unbolted the fuel pump and pumped the primer, there is not a leak there. Will one of those in line spark testers work to see if im getting sufficient spark at the cylinders, or do i need a different tester.


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## Dadvocate (Jun 26, 2011)

http://www.sschapterpsa.com/ramblings/Johnson_9.9_troubleshooting.htm

This is page shows you how to buid your own with some basic supplies and you are able to compare spark as all cylinders fire in order.


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## twitch (Mar 4, 2007)

As long as the gap is adjustable an inline should work.

I use a homemade tester similar to the one in the link.

what you are looking for is a nice blue spark that will jump about a  1/2" gap on the tester.


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## truckermt (Feb 2, 2011)

I did a compression test and the top cylinder is right below 120 and the bottom cylinder with all the buildup on the spark plug was right below 60. I havent done the spark test yet because i figured the compression was pretty awful and most likely causing my problems. What is the next thing I should do. Is a rebuild my only option?


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## cutrunner (Jun 8, 2010)

At this point , best case scenario would be you have bad reeds, other than that, yea u need a rebuild


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## twitch (Mar 4, 2007)

> At this point , best case scenario would be you have bad reeds, other than that, yea u need a rebuild


I agree. Although I might decarb the motor and recheck the compression.


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## truckermt (Feb 2, 2011)

Would carbon buildup cause that much of a loss in compression though?


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## twitch (Mar 4, 2007)

It could if a ring was sticking due to carbon build up. 
If it's a broken ring or severely scored cylinder, the no, a decarb won't help.


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## truckermt (Feb 2, 2011)

I ran a can of seafoam through and retested the compression. The cylinder that was at 60 is now back up to right below 120. The engine now will build rpm but still has slight hesitation at times and some stumble at various spots of throttle. I have hooked up a spark tester and I cant see a spark from either. I don't know if its because its too bright out to see, or I hooked something up wrong. I put the one end of the tester into the spark boot and the other end to a bolt that has a ground wire attached to it.


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## truckermt (Feb 2, 2011)

tested the spark and it looks like a double spark that is whitish blue.


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## twitch (Mar 4, 2007)

Did the spark jump a* 1/2"* gap on the tester?


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## truckermt (Feb 2, 2011)

yes it jumped a half inch on the tester for both wires


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## twitch (Mar 4, 2007)

You need to start checking ignition components and compare against factory specs.


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## mmjamp (Jul 3, 2011)

Okay chances of it being your ignition is very very slim, Yamaha electronics do not go bad. You need to find out what your problem is (Compression, Spark, Fuel) the low compression was obviously an issue, and I doubt that the sea foam corrected anything. If your compression is 120psi now, then I would be inclined to say the test was not performed correctly or the gauge gave you a false reading at 60psi. That being said lets diag. your engine.

1) Re-test your compression if good proceed to #2
2) Check for Spark, (I don't care if it jumps a 1/2 or not as long as you got spark on both plug wires)
3) If the above steps check ok then you a have a fuel issue. (Unless the ignition system is breaking down under heat or at higher speeds, but again this is very unlikely even on a 1985, and does not sound like what it’s doing according to your post) 
4) Re-Check your fuel pump, as stated early un-bolt it from the block and squeeze the primer bulb you’re looking for gas to exit through the vacuum hole on the back of the pump.( There should be no gas coming out)
5) Eliminate your boat as problem, check the engine running on a different gas tank, hose, and primer bulb. If you still have a problem than 99% it’s your carb. Even though you said you already rebuilt it. Yamaha Carbs are very, very sensitive compared to a Merc, or OMC. I have had certified techs work for me have to done them twice, even myself have had to pull them off again because I missed something.
6) If you just want to test your reeds, the easiest was to tell, would be to pull the carb cover off start the engine and see if you getting gas coming out of the throat of the carb, kind of like spitting back at you.
These are the steps that any repair shop would take to diag. your engine, from all your post and the picture of your plugs I say you have a fuel issue, and that it’s somewhere in your carb. Just my .02


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## truckermt (Feb 2, 2011)

Thank you very much im going to go through the list and hopefully I will find the problem!!


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## truckermt (Feb 2, 2011)

I cleaned the carb again today and the engine still runs like crap. Decided to pull the head to look inside and it looks pretty nasty in the bottom cylinder. The exhaust port looks to have lots of carbon buildup. I took some pictures if you guys could take a look. The other alarming thing was the whole exterior of the bottom cylinder appears to have corroded away. 

http://i1109.photobucket.com/albums/h425/mttateo/IMG_3532.jpg


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## truckermt (Feb 2, 2011)




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## twitch (Mar 4, 2007)

That block looks like a total write off.


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## mmjamp (Jul 3, 2011)

You need a rebuild and like twitch said the block may be toast! The pistons don't look good, and the cyclinder walls are scorned a little. To be honest with you it just looks like the motor has a lot of hours on it, which is expected for an 1985.


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