# 14' Rivercraft Rebuild into Flats Skiff



## LWalker

Immediately started tearing it down.



That night I got it down to a blank slate


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## jdpber1

this could be interesting.. im in


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## LWalker

I got after the inside with 40 grit to smooth out the surfaces a little in preparation for laying out the interior. After that I started making templates for my bulkheads with small lumber and hotglue. These were transferred onto plywood and cutout with a jig saw.


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## LWalker

Rear bulkhead being fit


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## LWalker

Both bulkheads fit. Front deck support fit.


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## LWalker

Next I started laying out the deck and ending up with this:


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## LWalker

I am hopeful that these will knock down on spray. The outside edge will have 2" band of lumber added all the way around.


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## LWalker

No pics, but I built gunnel supports. 4 on the starboard side and I tied the gunnel into the storage box on the port side. 

Next I dissembled the deck and began working on the bulkheads. 
Temporarily clamped some PVC in place for my fuel and electrical lines.
Drilled holes for my rod storage.
Drilled drain holes for the deck.
Cut access holes in both bulkheads. These will be left open and the deck will have no hatches
Cut out the rear deck support and will use it as a guide to level off the transom.


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## LWalker

That brings me to today. Picked up some of this at lunch:


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## PG350

Looks similar to this
http://fortmyers.craigslist.org/lee/boa/4033938264.html


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## LWalker

> Looks similar to this
> http://fortmyers.craigslist.org/lee/boa/4033938264.html


That looks like a good rebuild candidate


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## LWalker

Not a lot of progress, but I did get my chase tube glassed in and got a coat of epoxy on the bulkheads, deck supports, and gunnel supports


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## Paul_Barnard

I like those hulls. There are perhaps 8-10 manufacturers who at one time built essentially the same boat. I had a 14' Custom Craft with a 20 Yamaha 4S and it would run 30MPH with just me in it. They are relatively dry and take a chop well. About the only downside is that they don't turn well. I LOVE they layout you are going with and can't wait to see the finished product.


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## LWalker

> I like those hulls.  There are perhaps 8-10 manufacturers who at one time built essentially the same boat.  I had a 14' Custom Craft with a 20 Yamaha 4S and it would run 30MPH with just me in it.  They are relatively dry and take a chop well.  About the only downside is that they don't turn well.  I LOVE they layout you are going with and can't wait to see the finished product.


You are right...My dad had one of a different manufacturer when I was a kid. I learned to fish on it....lots of love for this hull. I think it will turn out nice. I have been working on it some more and will post a update at the end of the weekend. I should be able to set the deck in place next week.


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## LWalker

Two coats of epoxy on the bottom sides of the deck pieces



Rear bulkhead epoxied in place



Front bulkhead epoxied in place



Gunnel supports epoxied in place



Bilge sealed up with epoxy



Tank supports epoxied in



Built up transom and epoxied in place. This will be sanded down to level the top of the transom, then glassed over. I did this to because the transom was not level with the deck and I am sealing it up and mounting the motor on a plate.


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## LWalker

No pics today, but:
- Got the transom leveled out, filleted and coated in epoxy
- Got tank holder filleted and coated in epoxy
- Put a second coat of epoxy on all the wood 
- Sanded areas that will be under the deck in preparation for painting those areas prior to gluing the decks down

Hopefully, I can put some primer down in those areas tomorrow.


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## LWalker

Picked up this before work this morning


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## jdpber1

once you use that Rustoleum... would you mind an detailed review of how it lays and the finish quality..


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## firecat1981

Already did one, it's not a bad paint as far as 1-part paints go.

http://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1299440526


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## LWalker

> Already did one, it's not a bad paint as far as 1-part paints go.
> 
> http://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1299440526


That helped me to make the decision to go the Rustoluem route, plus reading other success threads, and having a close friend that had good experiences with the the product. I just couldn't justify spending awlgrip "money" on "this" boat with this option available. $12 quart at Lowe's.

I plan to mix white and battleship gray to come up with a tow-tone scheme of light gray and middle gray.


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## LWalker

Laid a coat of primer during lunch using a brush and roller. No problems, seemed to go on well. It also seems to be drying quickly in the 90deg heat today. I did not add anything to it, but it says you can reduce 5% in hot weather. It says to sand and re-coat after 2 hours in 90deg weather, so I will put the first coat of topcoat on after work. I will post some pics tonight.


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## luisjgc

you will be happy with the paint,, i just finished restoring a 14 ft skiff and used the rustoleum paint, its real nice , and strong., i did 3 thin coats, light sanded in beteween. foam rolled and tip with a very fine brush,,fyi.. tip it inmediatly!!

.


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## LWalker

> you will be happy with the paint,, i just finished restoring a 14 ft skiff and used the rustoleum paint, its real nice , and strong.,  i did 3 thin coats, light sanded in beteween. foam rolled and tip with a very fine brush,,fyi.. tip it inmediatly!!
> 
> .


Sounds good. I will likely just roll these storage compartments under the decks, then spray the rest. Who knows, I might give the roll and tip a try.


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## LWalker

2 parts White and 1 part Battleship Grey = 



I am gonna use this color on the:
Hull 
Deck edges
Storage box
Under deck storage areas
Gunnels

Down the road, I will mix some 1 part White and 2 part Battleship Grey that will be for the nonskid


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## NoeSmyrnaBch

Looks good! Please post a review of the spraying process. I'll be painting the inside of my skiff soon with the semi-gloss white and am thinking about spraying. I've done the bilge and front under deck already by rolling and tipping but I'd rather spray if it works out.


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## LWalker

Primed the under deck areas today at lunch using a chip brush and a 6" roller
Sanded everything with 220 and wiped down with denatured alcohol
Rolled everything with a 6" roller and had to use a chip brush to get the corners

I will add another coat tomorrow night.

I am not to concerned with the look of these areas since they are covered by the deck and I will fair the rest of the boat.


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## LWalker

> Looks good! Please post a review of the spraying process. I'll be painting the inside of my skiff soon with the semi-gloss white and am thinking about spraying. I've done the bilge and front under deck already by rolling and tipping but I'd rather spray if it works out.


Will do!


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## LWalker

Well, after staring at the color for a while, I think I have changed my plan a little. Then current color will be painted all over and then I will do my non-skid in a lighter grey. The makeup of the colors is below:

Middle Grey: 2 parts White and 1 part Battleship Grey
Light Grey: 20 parts White and 3 parts Battleship Grey


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## LWalker

Rod tubes flared and ready for install

I used a heat gun and the top off a chain link fence post


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## LWalker

I laid another coat if grey tonight in the storage compartments under the decks, but I did it a little different. I roughed it with 220, then cleaned with denatured alcohol. Then I mixed up the paint with 6.25% hardener and 5% acetone. It was much easier to work with and seemed to flow out and cover better. Again, this was with a roller and brush.


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## LWalker

It also seems to be drying faster....the paint doesn't have any tack to it now. I painted it about 2 hours ago.


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## LWalker

I got the deck all glued down with a thickened mixture of epoxy


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## LWalker

Laying out the edge of the deck


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## PG350

You should be happy with that paint. I painted the inside of my boat with it over a year ago and it is wearing well. I have even dropped heavy objects on the paint with no damage. It is starting to slightly wear at the point where my gas tank is always bouncing around, but I only applied two very thin coats.


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## LWalker

> You should be happy with that paint.  I painted the inside of my boat with it over a year ago and it is wearing well.  I have even dropped heavy objects  on the paint with no damage.  It is starting to slightly wear at the point where my gas tank is always bouncing around, but I only applied two very thin coats.


I am very happy with it so far. What I have painted with it has dried nice and hard and I am sure it still has some drying to do.


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## PG350

I am going to paint my current boat project with this paint. The price is great. Do you know if it can be tinted?


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## LWalker

> I am going to paint my current boat project with this paint.  The price is great.  Do you know if it can be tinted?


I don't think Lowes/HD will tint it. I mixed 2 different colors together to get mine....of course that only works for some colors.


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## firecat1981

No Lowes and HD won't tint it, they won't even give you the tint so you can do it yourself. If they did I might have used it instead of interlux brightsides on the outside of my hull.

I've had the rustoleum on my decks now for about 2 years or so, and with the enamel hardener, and krylon webbing, it seems to be holding up pretty well. Only areas where it has worn thin is there the gas tank and cooler rubs. On a budget project I'd consider using it again.


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## LWalker

Here are a few discussions on it where I saw a tip about using Artist Acrylic Oil Paint to tint. I have not done this, so I don't know the quality of this tip.

http://www.fiberglassics.com/glassic-forums/home/main-forum/rustoleum-paint-question
http://www.fiberglassics.com/fiberglassics-forums/home/main-forum/rustoleum-boat-paint


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## firecat1981

It's easy enough to tint by mixing colors, and really a quart in a different color will run you about as much as tint being they are so cheap. Problem is you have to be extremely precise in your measurements or you will never be able to match it again.


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## PG350

Thank you for the responses. I am looking for a blue or green color so mixing quarts wont work. Might just settle for white since it hides flaws better. 

What do you guys know about the epoxy/graphite coating? I plan on using it for the bottom of my boat after my fiberglass repairs.

After I make the repairs do I just prep the hull and paint it on like paint?


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## LWalker

I have never used it, but I know firecat1981 has. 

These threads should get you going:
http://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1294600727/75
http://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1282368735/180


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## PG350

Thank You very much and I will stop hijacking your build now.


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## firecat1981

I found that the rustoleum marine paint is pretty much the same thing as regular rustoleum, they just slap a new label on it. So you can take some blue and mix it with white to get the lighter colors you need. White is always a good choice too.

The Plytanic is my boat. The graphite epoxy coating is still working great after many beachings and some hardcore impacts with oysters.


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## david_kohler

Are you just using the rustolem primer over the top of the epoxy? I'm getting ready to paint, but heard only certin primers work.


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## LWalker

Yes, after I sand and clean with denatured alcohol. Since it is a mechanical bond, I think the key is to solvent clean and sand prior and in between every coat. Also, make sure you use the primer that is recommended for your topcoat.

Here is some info from West:

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/finish-coatings/
http://www.westsystem.com/ss/testing-house-paint-primers/


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## LWalker

Deck rail installed and shaped with the exception of 2 small pieces that tie into the transom.


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## LWalker

Filled in the deck rail at the transom
Shaped the remaining areas of the deck rail
Routed all the edges with a round over bit
Sanded all the raw wood

I think we are ready for glass. What do you guys think so far?


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## Gramps

Looking great LW! I'd say she is ready for glass. Have you sealed the underside of the ply yet or just waiting to do everything at once?

What's with the little box in the cockpit, leaving it for a gun box?


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## jdpber1

sure is coming alone nice


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## LWalker

> Looking great LW! I'd say she is ready for glass. Have you sealed the underside of the ply yet or just waiting to do everything at once?
> 
> What's with the little box in the cockpit, leaving it for a gun box?


Thanks Guys!

I sealed the underside of the plywood with two coats of West epoxy before I glued it down. Also, you can see in some of the other pics that I went ahead and finished(painted) the areas under the decks. I should only be glassing the areas you can see that are raw wood.

The little box was already there from the factory. I thought about removing it, but decided to leave it for some semi-dry storage. The floor also ties into the box, so it would have been a lot more work to remove it. I didn't like the lid that came on it, so I will be building a new one that hinges from the vertical gunnel support. I plan to add some weatherstripping to the top of the lip.


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## LWalker

I got all the wood seal coated this morning before work. I plan to get it sanded this afternoon and hopefully get my glass all cut out. I have a buddy coming over Thursday night for a glassing party.


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## LWalker

Blush cleaned all surfaces with wet rag and paper towels
Sanded all surfaces with 80 grit
Vacuumed the entire boat
Cut cloth 

Ready for the bond coat tonight


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## LWalker

Bond coated


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## LWalker

Blush cleaned with water
Sanded with 120
Vacuumed
Cleaned with denatured alcohol
Fill coated with epoxy using a squeegee and chip brush
Tipped with brush


I am going to do the finish coat this afternoon for a chemical bond


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## LWalker

Worked on the motor yesterday a little bit. 
Pulled the lower unit
Cleaned (amazing where dirt dobbers can get)
Pulled the water pump and cleaned and greased it
Drained the LU oil (looked pretty good, no metal shavings/flakes or water)
Greased the shaft an splines
Re-installed the LU
Pulled the plugs and put a little MMO in the cylinder
Installed new plugs
Turned the motor a several times to move the MMO around
Pulled the carb (gonna clean it this afternoon)

I might try to fire it up this afternoon


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## LWalker

Finish coat completed


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## LWalker

Flipped, this ought to be fun. Lots of barnacle love 



Got the motor running too, but its gonna need a carb job


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## PG350

Welcome to my world. Sure you already know but Harbor freight has a poly disc for a grinder that is great at removing paint/gel coat/ just about anything without being too aggressive. Just like this but 4.99 each. http://www.ebay.com/itm/125mm-5-POLY-STRIP-DISC-DISK-CAR-PAINT-RUST-REMOVAL-/170917909703

Your boat looks awesome.


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## jdpber1

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-1-2-half-inch-nylon-abrasive-wheel-94017.html


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## LWalker

Thanks for the tips guys, I scraped on them a little and the barnacles come right off, but its the little shells that are going to be a pain. Hopefully those discs will make quick work of them.


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## jdpber1

the disks will be like a hot knife in butter.. you will thank ;D


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## LWalker

Bottom cleaned up. Still a lot more to do, but got the heavy lifting done this afternoon.


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## LWalker

Well, my little motor is alive after a carb rebuild, new fuel pump, new fuel lines and a couple thorough carb cleanings. Going to do a vinegar treatment to flush out the cooling passages and a dunk's seafoam to get rid of the carbon buildup. I plan to mount it as is to get a few hours on it (make sure everything is OK) before I go into a full cleanup and paint job.


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## LWalker

I'm on the road for work for the next 2 days. When I get back, I plan to get everything sanded down good and ready for fairing. I have a few gouges/nicks/scrapes in the gelcoat. I have some West 406 and 410. I used the 406 for my fillets and bonding and planned to use the 410 for fairing. I planned to use a 406 mixture to fill the gouges/nicks/scrapes. Once I have a decent surface, I was going to use a 410 mixture to fair everything. Does this sound OK? Also, once faired, should I go over the whole thing with a thin coat of straight epoxy to seal it all up and give a consistent surface for the paint? Or is this not necessary?


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## LWalker

Alright guys, replying to my own post again. I weighed the boat this morning. Any guesses on weight?

I plan to sand a good bit today and will post pics tonight.


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## Gramps

Not sure why there is no love here LW? I like what you're doing! What did you wind up using for the fairing & fillets? I used 406 for gluing and a mix of 406 & Microballons for fairing. If you can go with non-west system stuff. West is great but expensive! Look at US Composites or Boat Builder Central for fillers or depending on where you live a local glass shop.

No need to skim coat with neat epoxy after fairing, just get out the pin holes & divots and use a good high build primer.

I'll wager 472lbs on your boats weight! Or it could be 372, I'm sure of the 72lbs part just not the hundred... ;D


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## PG350

Ill split the diff and go with 400. I love the way your boat looks. I read all the updates so keep them coming.


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## LWalker

Keep the guesses coming....

I think I am ready to start filling and glassing the underside of the deck. 2 guys and 3 hours of sanding=


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## DuckNut

There is no way that thing weighs over 250 as it sits now.

Your doing great and send me my prize.


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## LWalker

Got the fillets (deck to hull and deck to edge) done this morning. I also filled in all the bad spots with the same 406 mixture. Next I will sand those areas and use a 410 mixture to fill everything. I hope to glass the areas I filleted this afternoon or tomorrow.


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## clintonb

My guess is 252.5 lbs. I am enjoying your build. Is there any videos that can help a guy that has the willpower but not the experience to do what you are doing? I can't wait to get to SWFL and find an old skiff and have at it. Thanks again for your posts.


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## DuckNut

dobie- you are looking at the videos. Most of these rebuilds are the creation by the owners to fit their needs. 

Just start your build by drawing what you want to do and then start asking questions. In the meantime, keep reading through here and the boat yard sections to get ideas of design and materials.

Oh- learn to post pics because we love boat porn.


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## [email protected]

Wow.... Looks good. You are way faster than I am.


On an aside..... how come no one told me about those stripping discs?


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## samay

Subscribed. Loving this 265 lb skiff.


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## LWalker

You guys are killing me with these 250lbs guesses....remember this is an 80's tech river boat. haha


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## LWalker

Epoxy and 410 fairing putty applied. I should have this thing in primer this week!


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## LWalker

> Not sure why there is no love here LW? I like what you're doing!  What did you wind up using for the fairing & fillets? I used 406 for gluing and a mix of 406 & Microballons for fairing.   If you can go with non-west system stuff. West is great but expensive! Look at US Composites or Boat Builder Central for fillers or depending on where you live a local glass shop.
> 
> No need to skim coat with neat epoxy after fairing, just get out the pin holes & divots and use a good high build primer.
> 
> I'll wager 472lbs on your boats weight! Or it could be 372, I'm sure of the 72lbs part just not the hundred...  ;D


Gramps, I already had 406 and 410 so that is what I used. I am not using an epoxy primer/paint, rather the Rustoleum topside one part paint and primer. If I was using epoxy paint then I would not use a seal coat, but the fact I am using Rustoleum has me considering a laying down a neat epoxy coat to seal everything up. I am still undecided and have to keep telling myself that I am not building a yacht. Repeat after me, this is your "beat-around" boat.


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## PG350

Looking good, what color rustoleum did you choose? I cant wait to see your results because that is exactly what I m going to use. I was thinking about mixing the navy blue with the white to see what it would look like. Due to family I have not even been able to do any work on my boat in a week. Whats it weigh??????


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## LWalker

> Looking good, what color rustoleum did you choose?  I cant wait to see your results because that is exactly what I m going to use.  I was thinking about mixing the navy blue with the white to see what it would look like.  Due to family I have not even been able to do any work on my boat in a week.  Whats it weigh??????


I have 2 different mixtures of battleship grey and white for a middle grey / light grey two tone. 

Well, it is a pig...500lbs...in comparison to production skiffs. The Shipoke 14 is 400lbs hull only. I knew it would be and I am fine with that. I am curious to find out the draft, hopefully around 6" which will be good for the places I fish.


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## PG350

Cant wait to see it, I have been watching and learning. Keep the pics coming.


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## Gramps

> I'll wager 472lbs on your boats weight! Or it could be 372, I'm sure of the 72lbs part just not the hundred...  ;D


Damn, I hate being close to right! ;D

LW - If you're not leaving the boat in the water for any extended periods of time (more than 1 week), I would not bother with a barrier coat. You'll be fine as is, even if you didn't want to paint!


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## 'Nano-Skiff'

Very impressive!


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## LWalker

> LW - If you're not leaving the boat in the water for any extended periods of time (more than 1 week), I would not bother with a barrier coat.  You'll be fine as is, even if you didn't want to paint!


Sounds good Gramps, I am talking your advice on this one. Primer is coming soon, just have a couple hours of sanding first!


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## LWalker

All sanded. I have about a dozen spots that need a little more fairing compound. I'll do those at lunch and sand them tonight. A little cleanup and we are ready for primer. I can't wait to get it all one color. Hopefully tomorrow the humidity will be below 90% here and maybe I can put some paint down.


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## jdpber1

solid color will be a big stepping stone..


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## DuckNut

500 pounds!!! You dropping a 150 Vmax on that thing? 

Excited for you to get some color on her - big milestone.


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## LWalker

> 500 pounds!!!  You dropping a 150 Vmax on that thing?
> 
> Excited for you to get some color on her - big milestone.


I know it man, I was hoping for less although I really didn't add a whole lot. I also used a formula online where you measure the tongue weight, slide the boat on the trailer and measure the weight again. Plug that into a formula and wallah...so hopefully it isn't very accurate.


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## PG350

I was wondering how you weighed it. I did not know if you went to a truck stop or something. Don't feel bad, my 16 ft project sea and sport feels damn heavy with no deck.


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## clintonb

I really like what you are doing. I can't wait to do this but probably on a 17 ft. hull. What type of equipment are you going to use to spray with? Do you think a good HVLP would be OK to use? thanks


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## LWalker

> I was wondering how you weighed it.  I did not know if you went to a truck stop or something.  Don't feel bad, my 16 ft project sea and sport feels damn heavy with no deck.


1. First put the scale under the tongue with the boat pulled all the way up on the trailer. W1
2. Scoot the boat back on the trailer about 12" and measure exact distance. X
3. Re-weigh the tongue. W2
4. Measure the distance in inches from the axle to the tip of the tongue. C
5. Plug all 4 of your numbers into the equation: C(W1-W2)/X


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## LWalker

> I really like what you are doing. I can't wait to do this but probably on a 17 ft. hull. What type of equipment are you going to use to spray with? Do you think a good HVLP would be OK to use? thanks


That is what I was planning to use, but I think I have decided to roll an tip it. I cannot spray in my garage and have two locations that I could do it, but that makes it a good bit harder to work on the boat logistically. After seeing how the paint laid out when I rolled it under the decks, I have decided to roll and tip. I will do the bottom first and if it doesn't turn out to my liking, then I will spray the rest.


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## clintonb

I hope you don't mind after I went back and read this all over again ( 3rd time so far) I have a few questions. 1) On the original boat there is an open area in the bow how does it drain and 2) how far are the new bulkheads apart? I was wondering about the new rod storage tubes being too far apart, and are you going to stager the tube holders so you have the rod tips pointing in different directions? This is great I am learning a lot from you and others here. Do you know if Rivercraft made a 16' or 17'. Thanks again


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## LWalker

> I hope you don't mind after I went back and read this all over again ( 3rd time so far) I have a few questions. 1) On the original boat there is an open area in the bow how does it drain and 2) how far are the new bulkheads apart? I was wondering about the new rod storage tubes being too far apart, and are you going to stager the tube holders so you have the rod tips pointing in different directions? This is great I am learning a lot from you and others here. Do you know if Rivercraft made a 16' or 17'. Thanks again


It does not drain. There is no way to get water up there unless you did it purposefully from the rear (ie cleaning). In that case, I will wipe it out with a towel.

The bulkheads are 69" apart. I fish with 7'6" rods, so it works out for me and leaves me with a large cockpit.

All rod tips will face forward. The holders on the back bulkhead are short and will not accommodate tips due to the flotation built into the back corners of the boat.

I don't think they made anything but this hull. This hull was made under about a dozen different manufacturers names and is common here in NWFL. Kennedy Craft is another one.


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## clintonb

Thanks for the info. Now get back out in the garage and go to work on the skiff.


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## trplsevenz

What part of NWFL is yous in?



> I hope you don't mind after I went back and read this all over again ( 3rd time so far) I have a few questions. 1) On the original boat there is an open area in the bow how does it drain and 2) how far are the new bulkheads apart? I was wondering about the new rod storage tubes being too far apart, and are you going to stager the tube holders so you have the rod tips pointing in different directions? This is great I am learning a lot from you and others here. Do you know if Rivercraft made a 16' or 17'. Thanks again
> 
> 
> 
> It does not drain. There is no way to get water up there unless you did it purposefully from the rear (ie cleaning). In that case, I will wipe it out with a towel.
> 
> The bulkheads are 69" apart. I fish with 7'6" rods, so it works out for me and leaves me with a large cockpit.
> 
> All rod tips will face forward. The holders on the back bulkhead are short and will not accommodate tips due to the flotation built into the back corners of the boat.
> 
> I don't think they made anything but this hull. This hull was made under about a dozen different manufacturers names and is common here in NWFL. Kennedy Craft is another one.
Click to expand...


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## LWalker

I am in Panama City


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## jrod0785

Very cool project! Keep up the great work. I live in Panama City as well.


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## LWalker

> Very cool project! Keep up the great work. I live in Panama City as well.


Cool. What kind of boat do you have? We are normally in West Bay in a Blue ECC Fury or an yellow and white Ranger Cayman. I sold the Cayman at the beginning of the summer and got a Bay Boat. This boat will be replacing the capability I had in the Ranger.


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## PG350

Lwalker, what color do you think I would end up with if i mixed the rustoleum navy blue and high gloss white? Maybe even two cans of white and one can of navy blue. Is there any kind of chart that you used? Also, did you just stir the paint together?


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## LWalker

First coat of primer all sanded. I have a few spots that I am going to fill and then it will be ready for the second coat of primer. I am going out of town tonight, so it will probably be Monday before I get anything else done.


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## LWalker

> Lwalker,  what color do you think I would end up with if i mixed the rustoleum navy blue and high gloss white?  Maybe even two cans of white and one can of navy blue.  Is there any kind of chart that you used?  Also, did you just stir the paint together?


I shook the paint for about 10 minutes, then stirred real good.

This is how I estimated mine. I used Photoshop to copy the colors from the website and then mixed them to different combinations.

What color are you going for?


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## PG350

Not that color at all. Im glad I asked. I really want a color like aqua blue but know that will not be possible with rustoleum. I might just go with white, for ease of use and price.


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## PG350

Possibly thinking about going black. Im going to do the bottom with the epoxy/graphite and was thinking about doing it all black now. Any negatives about a black hull?


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## LWalker

> Possibly thinking about going black.   Im going to do the bottom with the epoxy/graphite and was thinking about doing it all black now.   Any negatives about a black hull?


You really need a normal blue and green to get to aqua.

Just more sanding haha! Darker colors will show more imperfections than lighter colors.


----------



## PG350

When you going to paint yours?


----------



## PG350

> Wow.... Looks good. You are way faster than I am.
> 
> 
> On an aside..... how come no one told me about those stripping discs?



Sux no body told you about the discs. I just happen to see someone on here using one and tried it. I love them, but I also do not have anything to compare them to except sandpaper.


----------



## LWalker

Another coat of primer...


----------



## Gramps

ooooooh sexy!


----------



## PG350

Looking good.


----------



## permitchaser

I love your plans for that boat. I would have spayed it with bleach first or maybe u did. Push pole platform is a great idea, it should pole great. If u need to bulk up the transome or stringers try Seacast. What color are u going to paint it and what kind of paint


----------



## LWalker

> I love your plans for that boat. I would have spayed it with bleach first or maybe u did. Push pole platform is a great idea, it should pole great. If u need to bulk up the transome or stringers try Seacast. What color are u going to paint it and what kind of paint


It will be a middle grey with a light grey non-skid using rustoleum topside paint. Hope to have pics of the first coat tomorrow.


----------



## PG350

What does washing it with bleach do?

I love this build, I am learning and getting ideas from yours. I like the idea of filling in the rolled edge with wood for strength.


----------



## ziggysrq

Bleach? You really want to wipe it directionally with a solvent like acetone, keeping a clean rag as you go.


----------



## LWalker

I have used water to blush clean the epoxy using the wet rag / dry rag method. I have also used denatured alcohol using the wet rag / dry rag method before each coat of paint. Those and an occasional hose down to get sanding dust off have worked well for me.


----------



## jdpber1

uniform color makes it so much better.. cant wait till mine is primer


----------



## permitchaser

I have enjoyed this thread and I think it will help a lot of skiff builders. I love the way u turned a bay boat into a flats boat. It looks like it will float skinny and pole straight. Can't wait to see the final shots


----------



## permitchaser

> What does washing it with bleach do?
> 
> I love this build, I am learning and getting ideas from yours.  I like the idea of filling in the rolled edge with wood for strength.


I use bleach on my '97 flats boat to get rid of the mold since it sat for 4 years in Naples. The original picture of this Rivercraft appeared to have black mold


----------



## jdpber1

> What does washing it with bleach do?
> 
> I love this build, I am learning and getting ideas from yours.  I like the idea of filling in the rolled edge with wood for strength.
> 
> 
> 
> I use bleach on my '97 flats boat to get rid of the mold since it sat for 4 years in Naples. The original picture of this Rivercraft appeared to have black mold
Click to expand...


one thing to remember about washing with bleach or soft scrubb is that you must reseal the hull with wax as the bleach in both eats thru and opens up the pores in the jel and or paint.. so you must wax and protect those fresh opened pores.. but yes it will nuke the mold.


----------



## permitchaser

I agree about the bleach also I use The Works cleaner on my hull to get ride of barnacles I usually wax after. with the bleach I paint after because it is always below the floor or in a hatch. I am doing a cap off restore on my Flats Boat so when my mechanic gets the top off I will spray with bleach in a power sprayer then rebuild the stringers and gas tank


----------



## LWalker

Now we are getting somewhere! First coat of topcoat is complete


----------



## PG350

Bet ur feeling good.


----------



## whm302

spray or roll n tip?


----------



## LWalker

> spray or roll n tip?


I experimented with some different methods on the bottom and found that just a straight roll with no tip worked the best. I used a foam roller and thinned the paint with 6.25% hardener and 6.25% acetone. I rolled it on fairly wet and moved fast to keep a wet edge. I am happy with how it turned out. It is not yacht quality but definitely good enough for this boat. There is a small amount of orange peel but I have seen cars that are worse. No roller marks at all.

It is 85F and about 60% humidity here today. I was working in a closed garage with a fan running.


----------



## PG350

Can you put second coat on when paint is still tacky, or do you have to let dry then sand for second coat? Looks great already.


----------



## LWalker

> Can you put second coat on when paint is still tacky, or do you have to let dry then sand for second coat?  Looks great already.


I don't think you can. The can says to to wait 24 hours, sand with 220, then re-coat.


----------



## firecat1981

If it is one part paint then let it dry for as long as you can between coats! Do not put another coat on if it is still tacky or it will take forever to fully dry, if ever.


----------



## permitchaser

How are you going to hang the motor on there. Power jack plate or not?


----------



## LWalker

> How are you going to hang the motor on there.  Power jack plate or not?


I have a cmc trim unit that is bad. I took the guts out and made it into a manual jackplate.

Also, I am glad to report that I sanded a little this morning and the paint is nice and dry. I did not get a any buildup on the sandpaper. It had been about 18 hours since I painted.


----------



## permitchaser

I can't wait to see it in the water. I like that over hang or splash guard or what ever u call it. It reminds me of a Chaos. Did u dream it up yourself or what?


----------



## LWalker

> I can't wait to see it in the water. I like that over hang or splash guard or what ever u call it. It reminds me of a Chaos. Did u dream it up yourself or what?


I basically looked at my needs in a boat like this and then designed it around those. I wanted walkable gunnels if for nothing more the look of the boat.I also wanted a large deck area. Those two items are what led me to the overhang. If you look at many micro skiffs you will see essentially the same design although it is done as a flair in the mold with the deck meeting up to it.


----------



## permitchaser

Yes my flats boat has some flair to the bow cause I bump my head on it when I am under it waxing the hull. It also has walk around hull but mine is costing more than u are going to spend on yours. Mine is now in a cap of restoration that I will post pictures of as it progresses


----------



## LWalker

Got the boat sanded with 220 today and applied the final coat to it. This time I used lacquer thinner to thin it to 12.5%...double what I did last time. I think that is the ticket! The paint flowed nice and the lacquer thinner is a little less hot than acetone.


----------



## LWalker

Time for a little trailer work before I flip it. I need to redo the bunks and mounting brackets.


----------



## Gramps

[smiley=1-thumbsup1.gif] 

I'm loving it!


----------



## Shalla Wata Rider

I'm with gramps.... [smiley=1-thumbsup1.gif]...looks great !


----------



## PG350

Looks great. How hard is the paint now? Any worries about it rubbing through from the trailer bunks?


----------



## LWalker

> Looks great.  How hard is the paint now?   Any worries about it rubbing through from the trailer bunks?


It has hardened up nicely. I am going to put some wax paper over the bunks as a precaution. It will probably be tomorrow before I can round up enough people to flip it so that should give it some extra drying time. Also the boat won't be slid on the bunks but rather set down from above in the correct position. So, no, I am not worried about it.


----------



## LWalker

Got the bunks all done


----------



## firecat1981

Waxing the bunks will help too, it will keep the hull from sticking to the carpet when launching too. Buy some canning wax from the store, rub it on the carpet then let it sit in the sun for 15-30 minutes.


----------



## LWalker

> Waxing the bunks will help too, it will keep the hull from sticking to the carpet when launching too. Buy some canning wax from the store, rub it on the carpet then let it sit in the sun for 15-30 minutes.


Is that the same thing as paraffin wax...like canning wax?


----------



## PG350

I like it, no need to waste money on mounting brackets. I think I will copy you on that one. 
Did you drill all the way through the wood (top to bottom) or just up through the metal and into the wood? Or are you going to use brackets and I am jumping the gun?


----------



## LWalker

> I like it, no need to waste money on mounting brackets.  I think I will copy you on that one.
> Did you drill all the way through the wood (top to bottom) or just up through the metal and into the wood?  Or are you going to use brackets and I am jumping the gun?


Nope...no brackets. I used a 2x6 and ripped it down to the correct height. I drilled all the way through and bolted them down using carriage bolts that I countersunk. I also used some 1/2 starboard between the frame and bunks at the mounting points.


----------



## permitchaser

Treated wood I am sure


----------



## firecat1981

Yes same kind of wax, publix and walmart sell it, it's called gulf wax. It makes launching and retrieving much easier.


----------



## LWalker

> Treated wood I am sure


Yes


----------



## LWalker

Flipped without a hitch!!


----------



## permitchaser

Looking good now the deck will be done and then on the water


----------



## PG350

Very nice and unique. I love boats that no one else has and we aren't just looking at the same boat over and over again in different colors. Very nice job.


----------



## LWalker

Sanded the topside and applied some 410 fairing compound


----------



## david_kohler

Looking good! I'm sure it feels better to have the boat sitting up right. Thanks for all the detailed info!


----------



## Gramps

LW - Where you located? I'd love to see that in person sometime. You're doing an amazing job.


----------



## LWalker

> LW - Where you located? I'd love to see that in person sometime. You're doing an amazing job.


Thanks a lot!! I am in Panama City, FL.


----------



## clintonb

Very nice. I assume the fairing compound is to level out the edges where the ply meets. If it is not too much trouble can you post some close ups? thanks once it is looking great.


----------



## LWalker

Got all the fairing compound sanded and cleaned everything with denatured alcohol, then me and my helper went at it


----------



## LWalker

> Very nice. I assume the fairing compound is to level out the edges where the ply meets. If it is not too much trouble can you post some close ups? thanks  once it is looking great.


Yes, it is used to fair(level) the surface. The compound you see is where the glass overlaps except for the centerline which is where the plywood meets. What do you want to see closeups of?


----------



## permitchaser

It is looking great. I have 4 grandson so I like the picture of your boy. My flats boat is to take my boys fishing. Show them how to spot fish in skinny water, how to fly fish and how to pole


----------



## clintonb

Looks like a happy young man you have there. I would like close ups of everything you have done but that is too much for me to ask. Thanks for what you have already shared.


----------



## LWalker

> Looks like a happy young man you have there. I would like close ups of everything you have done but that is too much for me to ask. Thanks for what you have already shared.


Everything is already covered up with paint, but I will try to start taking more close-ups. You can click on the pictures in the thread and that will take you to my Photobucket album, which I think will give you a little larger images.


----------



## LWalker

Got the primer all sanded with 120. I'll try to get another coat on it tomorrow.


----------



## LWalker

Primed again. Sanded. Painted areas that will not get non-skid


----------



## PG350

How much rustoleum did it take for the bottom of the hull?? I ordered a gallon and hoping its enough.


----------



## LWalker

> How much rustoleum did it take for the bottom of the hull??  I ordered a gallon and hoping its enough.


1 qt of primer and 1.5 qts of paint for 2 coats each. Each were thinned with 6.25% hardener and 12.5% lacquer thinner and applied with a foam roller


----------



## PG350

Thank You.


----------



## LWalker

Got the first coat of grey sanded with 220. Cleaned it up and put down another coat.


----------



## david_kohler

Looking great, I bet your waiting for the red to go down (fish blood).


----------



## LWalker

Non-skid taped off. I have a side business in vinyl cutting so I made a law stick and all my radii out of vinyl.


----------



## Dillusion

This thing is going to be nicer than some current production skiffs. 

Sweet...


----------



## DuckNut

You clearly knew what you wanted in your skiff. Well thought out. You are doing a great job.


----------



## LWalker

Thanks guys. I am happy with the way it is turning out. I got the non skid down and will coat over it again tonight. I should have pics up tonight with the tape pulled.


----------



## NoeSmyrnaBch

Love the vinyl idea. good stuff!


----------



## LWalker

I am so pumped to be done with all this sanding and painting!!!!


----------



## firecat1981

Looks great! Love the fish tape idea, might steal that one.


----------



## Net 30

Can't believe it's the same boat since August 29th! Great job and a hell of a way to spend quality time with your son....congrats.


----------



## LWalker

> Can't believe it's the same boat since August 29th!  Great job and a hell of a way to spend quality time with your son....congrats.


I know...August 23rd to be exact. I have to make a new "to do list" now that I have made it to this point. This new list looks like a lot more fun than sand, clean, paint, sand, clean, paint, sand, clean, paint, sand, clean, paint, sand, clean, paint, sand, clean, paint, sand, clean, paint.


----------



## LWalker

> Looks great! Love the fish tape idea, might steal that one.


Let me know when you get to that point and I can cut it for you. I make custom law sticks all the time with boat names and designs in them.


----------



## LWalker

Not a lot of progress on the little boat over the last week, but I did fill the freezer up with snapper from a couple of offshore trips this weekend. I also went out for opening day of stone crab yesterday and pulled 39 out of their holes.

Got the jackplate holes drilled tonight.


----------



## DuckNut

That's a new one. Using painters tape to prevent the jackplate from scratching the paint after you bolt it on. ;D

Next step: motor, fuel and on the water pics


----------



## LWalker

Got the plate mounted and set the motor up there. The motor is not secure yet, hopefully tomorrow. I might get to put her in the water this weekend, although she is still far from done.


----------



## DuckNut

You got the right motor to push that beast.

Getting real close to a day on the water.


----------



## LWalker

My buddy came in from GA and we picked up several of these yesterday afternoon and this morning. Got the rod holders mounted and started running the fuel lines.


----------



## LWalker

Finished rigging today and took her for a spin.


----------



## DuckNut

Two big thumbs up dad!!!


----------



## PG350

So how did she run?


----------



## LWalker

> So how did she run?


Don't really know yet....I mean, we planed and the boat road flat. I need a new prop and need to lube the steering before I really test it out.


----------



## david_kohler

Two thumbs up for sure! It won't be long till your son is waving by to you as he drives the skiff of into the sunrise. I bet it feels good to see her floating! First ride thoughts on draft and others things?


----------



## LWalker

> Two thumbs up for sure!  It won't be long till your son is waving by to you as he drives the skiff of into the sunrise.  I bet it feels good to see her floating!  First ride thoughts on draft and others things?


I still need to do more testing to see the draft....got to round up one of my buddies for weight. I am getting a new prop today, so hopefully I will run it again this afternoon. I will report the results....


----------



## makin moves

Man that came out great. Nice job!!


----------



## LWalker

I have been fighting with my carb for the last week or so. The needle valve in the rebuild kit I used was sticking, float adjustments, etc. have been holding me up. After removing the carb, which also requires the starter to be removed, at least a dozen times, I finally got it to a reliable point today. I still need to take out for a longer run, but I did manage to run it for about 20 minutes straight today. I wanted to get to this point before I moved forward with the rest of the build....had to make sure this motor was going to work out. 

I am currently at 22mph, but need to get a tach to see where I am with the rpms/prop....it is a beat up 10 pitch. I measured my draft at 5.5" with 2 guys, so I am OK with that. Probably be around 6" when I am done which will be fine for what I do.

Now, I am ready to press forward. Here's what I got on the long list:
-Replace trailer lights and wiring
-Add trailer winch stand and winch
-Install bow eye
-Install running lights
-Build poling platform
-Build casting platform
-Build storage box lid
-Build push pole holders
-Build removable mount for flounder lights
-Build tiller extension
-Build push pole
-Paint Motor

Flounder lights I built before I started on the boat



Started on the poling and casting platforms today


----------



## clintonb

Very nice. Keep up the good work.


----------



## PG350

Looking awesome. About the motor, to me it seems it should run faster than that. My 15hp pushed my 16 foot hull (pretty heavy) to 23 mph with stock beat up prop.

I love the way your boat turned out.


----------



## LWalker

> Looking awesome.  About the motor, to me it seems it should run faster than that.  My 15hp pushed my 16 foot hull (pretty heavy) to 23 mph with stock beat up prop.
> 
> I love the way your boat turned out.


Thanks, yours is looking good too!

Yes, it should be faster once I get it dialed in. I have done everything I can do without a tach to dial in the prop. Hopefully I will end up with a different prop which will increase my top speed....it is hard to get any kind of speed out of a 10 pitch that is on there now. It's all in the math:

10 pitch | 2:1 Ratio | 5500 RPM | 10-12% slip | = 23 mph

I hope to end up with a 13:
13 pitch | 2:1 Ratio | 5500 RPM | 10-12% slip | = 30 mph

I also will run with some new gas. The speed above was mixed at 32:1 and had a can of seafoam in it...I ran the first tank like this because it had been sitting for a few years. The next tank will be a fresh tank of 50:1.


----------



## DuckNut

> 10 pitch | 2:1 Ratio | 5500 RPM | 10-12% slip | = 23 mph
> 
> I hope to end up with a 13:
> 13 pitch | 2:1 Ratio | 5500 RPM | 10-12% slip | = 30 mph


It is all in the math - however if you are slinging the 10 at 5500 you will not have enough power to sling the 13 at the same pace- each inch in pitch usually translate into roughly 200 rpms. What does your calculation say at 4900rpms?


----------



## LWalker

> 10 pitch | 2:1 Ratio | 5500 RPM | 10-12% slip | = 23 mph
> 
> I hope to end up with a 13:
> 13 pitch | 2:1 Ratio | 5500 RPM | 10-12% slip | = 30 mph
> 
> 
> 
> It is all in the math - however if you are slinging the 10 at 5500 you will not have enough power to sling the 13 at the same pace- each inch in pitch usually translate into roughly 200 rpms.  What does your calculation say at 4900rpms?
Click to expand...

You are correct....I am going to order a little tach Monday where I can see for sure. I may be spinning it 6000, it is hard for me to tell on this little motor.....just need some more seat time. For a 13 pitch at 4900 and the same slip % you are at 27mph.


----------



## LWalker

Got my poling platform top, casting platform top and storage box lid ready for epoxy today.


----------



## PG350

When you build stuff like that do you just epoxy over the screws? Also what kind of wood, or does it not matter? I have so much to do on my boat and am just getting ideas from boats like yours. 

I really like the side storage box, gives you storage while not taking up too much room. Looking good, keep the pics coming.


----------



## LWalker

> When you build stuff like that do you just epoxy over the screws?   Also what kind of wood, or does it not matter?  I have so much to do on my boat and am just getting ideas from boats like yours.
> 
> I really like the side storage box, gives you storage while not taking up too much room.  Looking good, keep the pics coming.


I epoxy over the screws. They are encapsulated with epoxy, so it doesn't bother me. Some people remove them once the epoxy has set but not fully cured and then fill the holes with epoxy.

I am using regular exterior sanded plywood. If I was building a whole boat, I would use marine ply, but for this project regular exterior ply meets my needs and saves me a lot of money.


----------



## DuckNut

Looks great LW.


----------



## LWalker

Filleted, and 2 coats of epoxy, I'll do one more this afternoon and then flip them over to work on the topside


----------



## PG350

Filets look good. What filler are u using to make them?


----------



## LWalker

West 406 with a little 410 mixed in. I used straight 410 on the boat but I think I like it a little better with a little 406 in there.


----------



## clintonb

I can't wait to see your framework for the platforms. If I may ask a question, if you were looking for say a 16'-17' skiff to redo which one would you start with?  thanks and keep up the good work.


----------



## LWalker

> I can't wait to see your framework for the platforms. If I may ask a question, if you were looking for say a 16'-17' skiff to redo which one would you start with?  thanks and keep up the good work.


I have no idea really, it depends on what you want and what you are planning to do with it. Watch your local craigslist for a hull with the characteristics that you like. It depends on your wallet too. An old hells bay or dolphin would be very nice, but they are gonna cost you. I will probably build my next boat from the ground up....just as soon as my son is old enough to sand properly haha


----------



## clintonb

Thanks for the reply. I found a Mitchell 16' that looks like it will work for me, just as you know a lot of work.


----------



## LWalker

Cool, from my search that looks to be the same hull that pg350 is rebuilding here??http://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1378691948/15


----------



## LWalker

Seal coat and some 410 to the topside.


----------



## david_kohler

Very nice platforms and the detail you put into the paint is awesome! What are you doing for the base of the casting platform? I might have to try and duplicate this.


----------



## LWalker

> Very nice platforms and the detail you put into the paint is awesome! What are you doing for the base of the casting platform?  I might have to try and duplicate this.


Thanks! I am going to use structural/furniture pvc for the casting platform and possibly the poling platform. I know the casting platform will be fine, but I am not sure if the poling platform is gonna be rigid enough. On the poling platform, I am gonna bend one piece to my design and fill it with foam to see how rigid it is, then go from there.


----------



## PG350

Thanks for the filler info. 

I also connected my trailer bunks straight to the trailer like you and it worked perfect. Good idea that saved me some bucks.


----------



## LWalker

Topside glassed


----------



## LWalker

I got some materials in yesterday. Lots of fun stuff to come.


----------



## Gramps

I'm loving the size & shape of those platforms. How will you attached the pvc to the platform?


----------



## LWalker

> I'm loving the size & shape of those platforms. How will you attached the pvc to the platform?


I am going to use stainless carriage bolts thru the top of the platform thru the corner fittings with a locknut on the bottom. I am also going to do a bolt thru the end cap and thru the deck with some 5200 for a permanent mount.

I haven't bolted or glued anything yet and I (195) stood on the platform without any stability issues. Once bolted and glued together it will be rock solid. I think the poling platform is going to be fine too as far a stability is concerned.

Specs:
21" x 32"
18" tall
14lbs


----------



## david_kohler

Looks like I'm going to start another project, lol. That is turning out perfect and a great DYI project.


----------



## LWalker

> Looks like I'm going to start another project, lol.  That is turning out perfect and a great DYI project.


Thanks! Way cheaper than the alternative! I told myself that I could not have more money in the platforms than I have in the whole boat! 

This is where I got the PVC from: http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/default.aspx?catid=895&parentcatid=681&clickid=topnavmenu

Should cost you about $35 in PVC


----------



## jdpber1

were you using the 1.25 or the 1.5" pipe


----------



## LWalker

> were you using the 1.25 or the 1.5" pipe


1.25" because that size has more fittings available for it. I guess that is the standard size for PVC furniture. Also, remember that is the ID, the OD is 1.66"


----------



## NoeSmyrnaBch

Love the platforms. Very similar to what I had in mind. Can't wait to see them all painted up and mounted. Beautiful build!


----------



## LWalker

Got a little bit done yesterday.

Final coat of epoxy on the platforms




Built my push pole holders


----------



## LWalker

I got them all sanded and installed


----------



## BayStYat

That is killer


----------



## NoeSmyrnaBch

What are the holders made of?


----------



## LWalker

Nylatron. It is easy to cut with wood tools and strong enough to hold threads for the bolts. I used it to make this holder for my last boat and it worked out good. US Plastics has a pretty good price on it http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23139&catid=668&clickid=searchresults


----------



## NoeSmyrnaBch

Excellent, thank you!


----------



## LWalker

OK, I am back in action. I had a week long trip for work and then I made the decision that I enjoyed this build so much that I am going to start another one after Christmas. I have pretty much decided on building an Osprey 18.....but I'll start a new thread for that. In preparation for that I rearranged and organized the garage to give me a better workspace. It's still going to be tight, but I think I'll manage.

Back to the little boat. I built and installed a quick release mount for my flounder lights







Got my platform "feet" assembled. They will all be bolted thru the deck







I epoxied two glass lineman sticks that a buddy got me from the power company. Total length is 16'







I can't decide how to finish it. I would prefer it be black or white, but don't think paint will up. Has anyone worked with those additives that give epoxy pigment? Thoughts? Gaffers tape the whole thing? Leave it orange?


----------



## permitchaser

Leave it Orange that will let you find it easier it drops off the boat. Also put some chrome tape on a couple of areas so the sun will help you find it. I have lost a pole before and it will not happen again


----------



## kfa4303

I say leave it orange too. It looks unique, will be easy to find should you loose it, oe someone takes it, and it's easier to see when walking around the boat. Don't ask how many times I've walked into mine while fiddling around on the transom, or motor. http://www.microskiff.com/yabbfiles/Templates/Forum/default/undecided.gif


----------



## LWalker

I have a couple little minor things like build an end for the push pole and tighten up my bow eye. Maybe next weekend I can get some blood on her.


----------



## permitchaser

Were u going to put your gps/depth finder


----------



## LWalker

I'm not. No need on this boat.


----------



## NoeSmyrnaBch

Holy crap man, that came out amazing!

Just a question, what are the push pole holders on the opposite side of the boat from the push pole for?


----------



## trplsevenz

prolly a gig



> Holy crap man, that came out amazing!
> 
> Just a question, what are the push pole holders on the opposite side of the boat from the push pole for?


----------



## LWalker

> prolly a gig
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Holy crap man, that came out amazing!
> 
> Just a question, what are the push pole holders on the opposite side of the boat from the push pole for?
Click to expand...

You got it. I have to put some bungees on those two to hold the gig on. They are not long enough to like a push pole.


----------



## DuckNut

Wonderful job.

Take some more pic when your out gigging.


----------



## Shalla Wata Rider

> Wonderful job.
> 
> Take some more pic when your out gigging.


X 2
Very Very Sweet !


----------



## PG350

Super clean the push pole matches your motor.


----------



## david_kohler

Turned out beautifully! Nice, clean and open. I will be making a casting platform similar to yours. I love to gig too in Volusia county and will post some pics of my setup in my build.


----------



## LWalker

> Super clean the push pole matches your motor.


Haha, you are right. I plan to paint the motor white with grey graphics, but only after it proves itself to me. I don't want to spend the time on it until I am sure it is gonna be reliable. It is doing good so far, but I have only had it on the hose and in the lake a few times for test runs. I need to put some miles on it!


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## Recidivists

Looking great. [smiley=thumbsup3.gif]  Let us know how she runs.


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## tomahawk

Do you have any pics of the underside of your platforms to show how you secured the tops?


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## LWalker

> Do you have any pics of the underside of your platforms to show how you secured the tops?


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## tomahawk

Thanks...Awesome job!


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## Sallen427

What size nylatron rod did you use on the push pole holder? A how-to would be awesome.


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## LWalker

> What size nylatron rod did you use on the push pole holder?  A how-to would be awesome.


Nylatron GS MDS Rod 1-1/2" Dia
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=26470&catid=668

I'll try to post some more information


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## LWalker

OK here is a quick tutorial on the push pole holders....



Step one: build a jig/fence like below to clamp to your drill press and hold the nylatron rod


Step two: Layout marks for the centers. Remember to leave .125 between each piece for your saw blade. Drill holes.


Mine are 2.625" tall and have a 1.5" half circle cut into them with a holesaw. I would use a 1.25" next time. 


Step three: Cut into 3 equal pieces


Step four: Drill and tap a hole for a .375 bolt


Step five: Clean up pieces and sand 

Step six: Fastened down with a .375" bolt and washer bedded in 5200.


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## Sallen427

> Nylatron. It is easy to cut with wood tools and strong enough to hold threads for the bolts.  I used it to make this holder for my last boat and it worked out good. US Plastics has a pretty good price on it http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23139&catid=668&clickid=searchresults


How is this one made?


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## LWalker

Well, I don't have it anymore, so I can't provide measurements, but it basically went like this:

Sch 80 pvc (cut on bandsaw and sanded to make a pop in/out fit on pole) 
stainless machine screws holding it to pivot piece
.375 plate aluminium (tapped for screws above)
.375 machine screw horizontally thru bottom of aluminium for tilt
Nylatron with .375 slot cut out
Stainless washer
Nylatron 

The Nylatron has a .375 hole drilled thru vertically. A .375 machine screw holds it all together vertically and allows it to pivot.


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## Gators52__20

From a trim carpenter your craftsmanship and ability to make things yourself instead of buying store bought expensive and often just the same or worse then home bought, your build is refreshing. Nice job man.


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## LWalker

Thanks Gata! 

Check out my new build:
http://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1388104285


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## david_saito

I just recently bought a 14 river craft and was planning on doing the exact same thing you did. I have many questions to ask you. First what thickness plywood did you use ?


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## LWalker

> I just recently bought a 14 river craft and was planning on doing the exact same thing you did. I have many questions to ask you. First what thickness plywood did you use ?


3/8

I will be glad to answer any questions you have.


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## david_saito

What kind of speed did you end up having with the 30 mariner ? I have a 1995 suzuki 30 on mine


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## LWalker

High 20s


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## david_saito

What type of cloth did you use to laminate the deck ?


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## LWalker

6 oz plain weave cloth


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## david_saito

Are your gunnels actually walkable and do your extended rails actually deflect much spray ?


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## LWalker

Yes, they function better as spray rails than walk-able gunnels, but I have walked them before without an issue.


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## Holland78

Very nice build.. I am building one myself and was wondering how long is your rear deck


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## LWalker

Sorry for the late reply. Looks like our notifications may have disappeared after the site change. 

30"


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## Murfpcola

What brand of pant hardener did you use? I have an old beater/ former commercial mullet boat Carolina Skiff. I am about to paint the inside of the boat and am actually thinking of using the regular Rustoleum industrial paint on it. Are you still happy with the Rustoleum Topsides paint?


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## LWalker

I used the stuff from tractor supply....don't have any leftover to look at. The paint has held up really good for the price you pay!


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## terrydonald80

Thanks for all the build pics and info. It turned out AMAZING! I have a similar hull that's a 1991 13.5' (registered as a 14') Lee Boat that was produced in Milton, FL that I am just getting started on. I'm an avid bass fisherman and have always thought a flats "style" skiff would be great for the rivers as well. Plus they look better than the typical bass boat (that I can afford at the moment). Have fun with it and create some memories with kiddo! That's the reason I've decided resto-mod mine.


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## LWalker

Since there has been some interest in this boat lately, I will say that I am selling it. It was a fun build and a fun little boat, but after I decided to build an osprey, I always knew I would sell it to help fund the osprey.

http://www.microskiff.com/threads/14-rivercraft-flats-skiff-w-30-mariner-tiller-3000.34940/


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## yobata

Do you have a final bill of the materials that it took for this build?


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## LWalker

No, sorry I didn't keep track of it on this build.


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## "Scott"

LWalker said:


> Thanks Gata!
> 
> Check out my new build:
> http://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1388104285


I know it is few years since, but amazing build. Just read all the previous pages, posts and pics.... Inspiring... Thank you for documenting this... 
Regards 
Scott


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## CodyW

How well did your splash guards do? Reason I'm asking is because I am thinking about doing about 5 in guard on mine.


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## LWalker

They worked great. I put a modified version on the Osprey as well.


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## Kevin Booker

Just saw your posts. Awesome stuff. How well did that casting platform work out? Do you remember the specs on the base of the platform? Did you bolt the legs so they wouldn’t flare?


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## LWalker

It worked out great. I don't remember the dimensions but it was 16" tall. I am sure thru bolting the platform helped with the stability.


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## Kevin Booker

Thanks for the info. Looked awesome all around.


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## Battfisher

I hate that "3rd party hosting" thing for the pics. After following the Osprey build in real time, I'd like to see what became of this rebuild.


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## scolabird

LWalker said:


> All sanded. I have about a dozen spots that need a little more fairing compound. I'll do those at lunch and sand them tonight. A little cleanup and we are ready for primer. I can't wait to get it all one color. Hopefully tomorrow the humidity will be below 90% here and maybe I can put some paint down.


I'm a newby and this is probably a dumb question, but what wood did you use to make the lip under your splash guard/deck? How did you form/shape it? Did it hold up well the time you had her on the water?


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## LWalker

scolabird said:


> I'm a newby and this is probably a dumb question, but what wood did you use to make the lip under your splash guard/deck? How did you form/shape it? Did it hold up well the time you had her on the water?


Pine covered in fiberglass

Bent it into place and epoxied using clamps to hold it

I didn't have any problems with it


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## GoGataGo52__20

I forgot how nice this skiff turned out, awesome job man!


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