# New to forum, new to skiffs, and 1st Rebuild



## pgmelton (Apr 19, 2011)

Hello everyone and thanks for having such an informative forum. I have learned tons just trolling over the past few days.

I picked a 13 ft 6in skiff in horrible shape. I got with full knowledge of what I was getting in to just for the purpose of honing some skills. 

The transom was totally rotted out and it is about 97% gone (except for a small portion by the drain hole, go figure). Over the weekend I and going to replace the one stringer and the transom. then cut out everything in the boat and just leave the hull. 

I have already gotten several ideas and I have some direction. My concern is how to shore up the boat while I work on it. I don't have a trailer yet and I am concerned that when I strip it down the boat may be too flexible. Should I build some type of support rack and if so what are some good suggestions?

Once I am done with the stringer and the transom. I am going to cover entire interior of boat with 1708 fiberglass cloth and start building up from there.

My next area of concern is that middle portion of the deck (picture, brown section in the center of deck). It feels as it is a secondary layer, laid up over the original hull, if so I know to cut it out an glass over a sanded hull. 

Ideally, I want to add new deck over (secured on top of gunnels), a small center console and a small live well. I am inspired and I would like to mimic Azul Belize's project ( http://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1294590162 ). That is a sweet project. 

Any comments are welcome and appreciated.


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## pgmelton (Apr 19, 2011)

Additional pic


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## pgmelton (Apr 19, 2011)

One more.


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## pgmelton (Apr 19, 2011)

Last one for now.


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## cutrunner (Jun 8, 2010)

Can you post a pic of the bow please? The boat lools very cool.


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## pgmelton (Apr 19, 2011)

Cut,

Here you go, thanks!

Peter


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

Build a frame/jig to support that hull and get the lines back where they belong.
Otherwise all your work will go into producing a hull
that will be twisted, wracked and either sagging or hogged.
You really don't want to have to rebuild it twice. Or do you?  

Welcome to the forum


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## cutrunner (Jun 8, 2010)

Idrinkbleach: thanks for the pic but i meant an outside pic of the hull. Sorry. The lines are alittle different than azulbelize's skiff but it has that same green to it. Love the lines of both boats


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## pgmelton (Apr 19, 2011)

Brett, any suggestions for a jig. I will search this forum and the net, but that will be new for me. Can I get a trailer for her and add support through the trailer. I definitely only want to do it once, second time on another boat. 

Cut Runner, I'll get a better pic of the bow tomorrow, it's dark now. I agree with you, Azul's lines are bit different (and I don't have that skill set, hope this boat gets me one step closer) but I want to apply as much as I can. I am debating on a center console. It complicates the project and takes up room. I would rather have a nice live well and storage.

Tomorrow I am heading to the fiberglass shop to get some cloth and resin. I hope to put the transom in this weekend. I and using two pieces of encapsulated 3/8 ply sandwiched with 3 layers of 1708.

I'll keep you all posted, thanks for the feedback.


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

A jig or support frame can be made out of 2x4's entirely
or assembled atop the trailer you are going to use.
The purpose is to keep the keel straight and the chines and sheer,
level and symmetrical about the centerline of the hull.
You don't want the hull to shift position while installing bulkheads,
stringers, decks or doing fiberglass layup. If care is not taken while working
the finished hull could end up malformed and difficult to steer.


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## pgmelton (Apr 19, 2011)

This is the skiff after one day of work. I took out the live well, the braces and the bow deck. I also braced up the boat using some 2x4's (thanks Brett). I cut out the transom and fit it as best I can. I have two small areas that I can't get to fit snug. I going to build up those gaps with fiberglass so that the transom fits real snug. I think a thick putty will also help get a solid fit. 

Tomorrow I will encapsulate the transom and glass it together. I can't install it because my fiberglass shop does not open on Sundays and I don't have any cabosil.


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## pgmelton (Apr 19, 2011)

One more pic coming.


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## pgmelton (Apr 19, 2011)

Last one for today.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

That's pretty sweet - a rebuild right next to the test pool


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## jms (Apr 21, 2011)

transom rebuild:

be sure the skin,you're laminating the core to,is clean,dry,and even...
you're using wood core - one of the best approachs to laminating the core is to use a coating of straight epoxy-brush the side that's laminating,then,coat the side in a lamination mix of west system epoxy and 403-adhesive fibers - this will assure a reliable,full bond.cabosil,is basically a thickener - it's dust,using an adhesive additive is a much better approach - no need for layering the core in 1708,as you're laminating,save the 1708 for the finish portion - after the core is laminated in place...another good move to make is to epoxy the garboard drain - after the core has been laminated,drill the garboard - drill it larger - you're probably gonna use a 1" bronze tube,right ?,make the hole 1 3/4" , after the hole is bored - fill the hole with a mix of epoxy and the same adhesive additive - tape over one side of the hole,and fill the hole with this mix - after the mix kicks off,drill the correct size hole in it - doing this,the core is sealed from bilge water - remember,plywood,it absorbs water from it's end grain - try and do this for all holes,in a cored surface...

that looks like a cool rig ...


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## pgmelton (Apr 19, 2011)

Kreepa, thanks for the words of wisdom. I appreciate it. I notice that most people in this form use epoxy. I use resin because I gel coat. That's how I learned. I never painted a boat I find gel coat a little more forgiving. I brush on two layers without wax, the third with wax and I just sand like a madman and buff to a clean finish. 

Also, I am laminating two 3/8 sheets of plywood. That is why I was going to laminate it with 1708 especially in between the two boards. Your saying go direct with epoxy and adhesive fibers and save cloth for the finishing work.

What are the advantages to epoxy??

Thanks.


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## jms (Apr 21, 2011)

epoxy:

polyester based resins,when used with wood,these provide a surface bond only-no absorbtion.epoxy,it takes much longer to cure,it's actually absorbed into the wood - epoxy is also waterproof,unlike polyester resin...

gel coat can easily be applied over epoxy - use a product called duratec surfacer/filler-this performs 2 purposes,first-it fills the pinholes that form in any resin,second,it provides a seperation coat on the epoxy,allowing a polyester based gel coat to adhere properly...
i use duratec on just about every repair i perform-it makes a nice surface for the finish coat to adhere to...

do the transom core in 2 steps - laminate the first section of core in place,after the epoxy kicks,prep the surface and laminate the next section of core into place - when the epoxy kicks,prep the surface again,and then,glass everything in -tie it into the sides of the boat,along with the bottom of the hull...

wood laminated in this manner is inseperable - epoxy provides a much stronger,reliable bond,than polyester resins.again,use a suitable adhesive additive-cabosil is a silicon dust,it really provides no additional strength to anything,it just thickens the mix - cabosil mixed with a polyester based resin,the end result is a brittle mess with little strength...

the products in the below picture are the best products to use,when laminating...


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## jms (Apr 21, 2011)

you do understand to properly clamp the core - the core needs to be fully compressed onto the skin of the transom - untill the lamination mix fully kicks 


looks to me,like you're gonna have a kick azz rig,when you're all done...


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## pgmelton (Apr 19, 2011)

Thanks! Since my previous post I have been doing a lot of reading on polyester resin versus epoxy. The general consensus is that epoxy is the way to go. I have used Duratec in the past. I really like it and it is worth the extra expense. Also make the gelcoat super hard. I didn't know that gelcoat with Duratec would go over epoxy and fiberglass cloth. That's good news. 

I intended to clamp the heck out of the transom will laminating it to the boat. My concern is the bottom I was going to use some SS screws for that, then just grind off the screw and glass over the that. 

Thanks again!


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## Flounder_Joe (Apr 21, 2011)

iDrink bLEACH,Iwould be interested to see some updates,I have the transom problems and some of the guys on the forum have given me the same advice. seems your ahead of me on your rebuild.


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## pgmelton (Apr 19, 2011)

I just installed the transom yesterday. It look very good except for the glass over the top edge. I am going to have to grind it out and put something over it. When I was building the transom I messed up and tried to set it slow and it didn't kick well for about 12 hours. So during the install of the transom I added extra MEKP and in the heat (Miami was in the 90's) it kicked off too fast. I had to cheat and add some screws towards the bottom of the transom. Downside of boat yard polyester resin, the price is right but you have zero specs and every time is different. I don't sweat it because this build is on a tight budget. I paid 150.00 for hull and I trying to keep the project under 700.00. Things are tight, I am using wood for the very first time. I always use Divinicel and or Nida-core.

I will take pics tomorrow and post. I'll even post a pic of the mistake and how I fix it.


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## cutrunner (Jun 8, 2010)

Dont forget that picture of the bow that ive been waithing for lol :


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## pgmelton (Apr 19, 2011)

AS promised here the my pics proving what a newbie I am. One of the reasons I love fiberglass is that is it forgiving (more work but allows for corrections).


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## pgmelton (Apr 19, 2011)

In this pic you can see where my stuff started to kick faster than I could manage it. I am going to cut that off and cover surf cloth that fair it. Luckily it is very strong and solid.

Next step is grind even, putty and lay down 1708 to reinforce and level of the deck. I was going to lay a plywood or nida-core deck but I am trying to avoid extra weight and cost.

I post picks of deck as I am working on it over the weekend.

Enjoy and feel free to comment.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

> I am trying to avoid extra weight and cost.


Haven't you figured it out yet. Cost is exponentially related to how light the product is.

Keep up the good work


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## pgmelton (Apr 19, 2011)

Hello everyone,

The transom is in and very solid. I had to use screws towards the bottom so I have to fill them in and cover them with cloth. The deck is very weak and I need to reinforce it in addition to putting back the stringer and adding a false deck. It appears that it is a two part hull (base and cap) and someone had done some work on it I ground out and will redo. That left some wide grooves that need to be filled in with something (I plan to lay a fresh layer of 1708 and I prefer a clean, smooth lay it over, that open, unfilled groove is delamination just waiting to happen). Based on the advise of my local fiberglass shop, a putty made with cotton flock and milled fibers was the way to go.

I mixed it up and filled in all the grooves that I could before my afternoon appointment. I just can back and it is still a wee bit tacky but hard as a rock. I will do the rest later today or tomorrow. Later I'll sand it and lay down a layer of 1708.

Thanks to a forum member that led turned me on to a place called Polyumac, I am going use foam on this project rather than plywood. That makes me very happy since I find foam much easier to work with (plus all of the obvious benefits).


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## pgmelton (Apr 19, 2011)

Finish puttying the grooves in the deck, as well as repairing to holes in the hole. 

One note, a putty made with milled fibers and cotton flock is very very hard and even harder to sand. To make things easier for myself and save a ton of time of sanding and money on sand paper, I decided to added some cabosil (lots actually). 

I am taking a break tomorrow (family time) and I will sand the whole interior on Sunday and or Monday. Once sanded I will lay a layer of 1708 to reinforce the deck and gunnels. After that I will cut out that little portion of deck in the bow and continue the process started at the stern and complete it through the portion that I will cut out later.

Then......????


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## pgmelton (Apr 19, 2011)

The two repairs. The top left was a small slit I cut into the hull with an angle grinder. I had to make it resin rich to help fill-in one of the grooves mentioned earlier.

The repair to the right was a hole in the hull that was there when I bought the boat. Both were very easy fixes and after final review, took very well. As mentioned earlier, "let the sanding begin!".


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

> even harder to sand. To make things easier, I decided to added some cabosil (lots actually).


 ;D  ;D  newbie

Phenolic beads make it easier to sand.

Coming along nicely.


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## pgmelton (Apr 19, 2011)

Testing how to add pictures from Picasa. Will have new pics to post on later today.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Still waiting patiently.


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