# xp 200



## danville_marine (Jan 24, 2013)

im working on a xp 200 evinrude he had a stator, trigger,power pack,a coil on #2 cyl it starts good sounds good but #2 plug gets real sooty in like 30 sec the rest stay clean ive switched carb took head off make sure sleeve hasnt turned im kinda stumped why only one plug doing this


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## Creek Runner (Sep 1, 2011)

> im working on a xp 200 evinrude he had a stator, trigger,power pack,a coil on #2 cyl it starts good sounds good but #2 plug gets real sooty in like 30 sec the rest stay clean ive switched carb took head off make sure sleeve hasnt turned im kinda stumped why only one plug doing this


Have you done a comperssion test? Is it firing on that cyc? Are you getting any blow back/spitting fuel out of the carbs?


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## danville_marine (Jan 24, 2013)

reeds good 90 lb on each cyl can pull plug wire off motor will die down it about to pull my last hair out


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## cutrunner (Jun 8, 2010)

Have you swapped plugs arou d to make sure its not the plug?
Sometimes store people drop em...


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## danville_marine (Jan 24, 2013)

new plugs and swapped around swapped carb to make sure that it wasnt bad everytime i try something i put in a new plug


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## Creek Runner (Sep 1, 2011)

Post a pic of the plug, how it looks!


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## danville_marine (Jan 24, 2013)

when it stps raining enough i'll try to post pic


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## danville_marine (Jan 24, 2013)

this is what it looks after 30 sec of running even after carb change


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## Creek Runner (Sep 1, 2011)

The comperssion is a little low if the guage is right, but the plug doesn't look really bad typical 2-smoker.

Is it fouling the plug out? Have you ran it in the water? If so how does she perform? Other than you thinking the plug looks bad is it acting up any way?


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## danville_marine (Jan 24, 2013)

in that short of time only one is real black maybe that one is good the rest are bad when i took head off no carbon on other piston shiny it boggs wont plane out acts like it flooding no missing i talked to another johnson guy he has replaced a few sets of these plastic carbs because of this junky gas


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## Creek Runner (Sep 1, 2011)

> in that short of time only one is real black maybe that one is good the rest are bad when i took head off no carbon on other piston shiny it boggs wont plane out acts like it flooding no missing i talked to another johnson guy he has replaced a few sets of these plastic carbs because of this junky gas


I have never had to replace one of those carbs, unless it was cracked. Also if it was the carb then it would have moved when you changed carbs around. Have you checked the timming on it? Why did you replace the Stator, power pack, and a coil? The plug is turning black so it indicates it's firing on that cyc. If it wasn't firing it would be shinny and fouled with gas. 

When you run it for the 30 sec, and then pull that plug if you tap it on your hand does it drip gas? 

Have you gone through the carbs? I'm thinking that plug being black isn't really your problem. What kind of boat is it on? 

What year motor is it? Cross or Loop? 60 or 90? VRO or Diaphram?


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## cutrunner (Jun 8, 2010)

You say that piston was shiny and had zero carbon?
Sounds like water in that cylinder


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

I had a 3 cylinder motorcycle and 3 carbs that had issue like this. My fix was a pro putting a vacuum test and determining the carb was flooding the cylinder. Motor ran but not like it should have and I was ready to give up as well.

Over my many years of motor ownership I learned that I am not cut out to mess with them and therefore I leave carbs to the pros (and not the "one in the self storage joint")


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## Creek Runner (Sep 1, 2011)

> You say that piston was shiny and had zero carbon?
> Sounds like water in that cylinder


That was my 1st thought but if water was getting in the cyc, plug would be milky.


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## Creek Runner (Sep 1, 2011)

> I had a 3 cylinder motorcycle and 3 carbs that had issue like this.  My fix was a pro putting a vacuum test and determining the carb was flooding the cylinder.  Motor ran but not like it should have and I was ready to give up as well.
> 
> Over my many years of motor ownership I learned that I am not cut out to mess with them and therefore I leave carbs to the pros (and not the "one in the self storage joint")


If he switched carbs, that wouldn't explain only #2 fouling. But then agin that plug doesn't look that bad, I think you might be on the right track but not flooding if it was flooding the cyc, it wouldn't be black, black indicates it firing and burning, if it was flooding it would be clean and wet dripping gas. 

Really need more info, if its a 90 or 60 could point to different things, also loop and cross will point to different things.


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## danville_marine (Jan 24, 2013)

I swapped carb new plug same thing happened took head off #4,#6 are clean no carbon on pistons head gasket good I thought water too because other plug were so clean I know its hard to guess what might be wrong by not having your hand on it I was hoping the problem would move when I switched carb im going to try some carbon free let it set today bottom ring maybe stuck if I had a firing problem it should be on #5 too electrical all new


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

> If he switched carbs, that wouldn't explain only #2 fouling. But then agin that plug doesn't look that bad, I think you might be on the right track but not flooding if it was flooding the cyc, it wouldn't be black, black indicates it firing and burning, if it was flooding it would be clean and wet dripping gas.


Maybe. If the cabs were switched and there is an air leak in the cylinder then the same result will happen with any carb that is put in place. If there is a gasket between the head and carb and the leak is there then the carb may be giving too much fuel because of a lack of back pressure. If the leak is internal then the engine will be starved for air on the compression stroke because the air will be lost through the leak area. The engine will still fire but will be sluggish.

Have you done a leak down test on the engine? Specifically that one cylinder.


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## Creek Runner (Sep 1, 2011)

> > If he switched carbs, that wouldn't explain only #2 fouling. But then agin that plug doesn't look that bad, I think you might be on the right track but not flooding if it was flooding the cyc, it wouldn't be black, black indicates it firing and burning, if it was flooding it would be clean and wet dripping gas.
> 
> 
> Maybe.  If the cabs were switched and there is an air leak in the cylinder then the same result will happen with any carb that is put in place.  If there is a gasket between the head and carb and the leak is there then the carb may be giving too much fuel because of a lack of back pressure.  If the leak is internal then the engine will be starved for air on the compression stroke because the air will be lost through the leak area.  The engine will still fire but will be sluggish.
> ...


Sorry Duck I'm going to have to disagree with you. I'm not sure what you mean about a gasket between the carb and head. There are multiple gasket between the carb and head IE head gasket, intake seal (not a gasket but a gel) reed gasket, carb gasket etc etc. 

He still hasn't answered my questions on year, which would answer my other questions. It's going to be very different diagnosis if it a 60 degree or 90 degree motor, as they operate differently.  Also if it is using a VRO system vs a diaphragm pump will make a difference. 

My Dad became OMC certified in 1978 and owned his dealership since 1983 which was strictly OMC till 1994 when he also became Mercury authorized he went to school every year until OMC folded, he was a master OMC tech since 1985, my uncle also worked there for 15 years and was an OMC master tech I asked both of them about your theory and either I'm explaining it wrong because I'm not sure what you are saying or it just doesn't add up. 

I do believe his motor is an 80's model and believe me when I tell you my dad knows his crap on those engine. He use to have 70% of the parts catalog memorized.


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## Creek Runner (Sep 1, 2011)

> I swapped carb new plug same thing happened took head off #4,#6 are clean no carbon on pistons head gasket good I thought water too because other plug were so clean I know its hard to guess what might be wrong by not having your hand on it I was hoping the problem would move when I  switched carb im going to try some carbon free let it set today bottom ring maybe stuck if I had a [glow=yellow,2,300]firing problem it should be on #5[/glow] too electrical all new


Why would number #5 be bad to? Let me tell you what new electrical means, I had an Johnson 225hp venom that had no fire I do the proper test found a bad power pack, R&R power pack. Motor ran fine on the hose, take it to the water give it gas and breaks down, after about an hour take it back to the shop and do the walk of shame to my pops, "I can't figure that piece of ---- out" explain to him what it's doing he checks it out says lets go to the water same thing he starts scratching his head after about 20min ( I'm thinking good it wasn't me) we go back to the shop and he said rip that power pack off and put another one on there. Mind you it was firing, even when it was breaking down we checked it under a load and every cyc.. Was firing. So I'm thinking replace the PP why? But I do as I'm told, once done I say it fires on the hose fine, he said take it to the water, okay (I'm thinking this is a waste of time) I get to the water and it runs perfect. You ready for this!

The brand new power pack from OMC had the wrong firing order built into it. I was humbled that day and learned that just because something is new doesn't mean it's right and to always listen to your pops, lol! And yes I checked the part number on the PP to make sure it was for that motor.


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## danville_marine (Jan 24, 2013)

sorry creek i had trigger on my mind on #2 and #5 not firing rite i let it set yesterday clear my mine going to hit it today


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

CR- you are the tech, not me. That is why I take my carb work to someone smarter than I.

But I do know that in order for gas to burn it has to have the right air/fuel mixture. On the motorcycle I used as the example had a gasket between the carb and whatever it bolts to. This is where the air leak was. And that leak caused the air/fuel mixture to be off and the fuel did not ignite properly in that one of three cylinders. 

I also agree 100% with you that once in a while a brand new item is broken more than the item it was bought to replace.


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## Creek Runner (Sep 1, 2011)

> CR- you are the tech, not me.  That is why I take my carb work to someone smarter than I.
> 
> But I do know that in order for gas to burn it has to have the right air/fuel mixture.  On the motorcycle I used as the example had a gasket between the carb and whatever it bolts to.  This is where the air leak was.  And that leak caused the air/fuel mixture to be off and the fuel did not ignite properly in that one of three cylinders.
> 
> I also agree 100% with you that once in a while a brand new item is broken more than the item it was bought to replace.


I hear ya man! And I wasn't trying to argue just trying to think about what you said to see if I understood it right and think of his problem if a different way. There is something going on other than that spark plug. The OP is just jumping to that because it looks different. In your scenario you had a 3cyc, this is a V6 big difference, but I understand now where you were coming from in your thoughts.

If only 1 cyc. was flooding, depending on what boat it was on it would still plane and most likely turn pretty close to 4000RPM's or more. A 200hp with 1 completely dead cyc. will still run pretty normal to the ear (amateur) and really will only be able to tell when under load by the RPM's and performance.

Unless its on a very heavy boat, which I assume its not because of the site we are on it's micro skiff not offshore only!

If my questions where answered as to year, type of boat, model, (there were changes made with OMC) they went from Crossflow to Looper motors in the 80's, they changed from diaphragm fuel pumps to VRO systems in the 80's. If it's a Diaphragm systems it uses 2 if its a VRO it uses 1. They also had 60degree motors vs 90degree motors in the in which the firing system is different. Also in the late 80's they came out with SLOW which is a RPM limiter. 

By him saying its an XP I believe it's a mid to late 80's model but I'm not sure.

Any way hope he gets it figured out. If your in North East Florida give me a call I will help you out. 

Tight Lines


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