# New 7wt



## resin_head (Jun 1, 2016)

This forum is awesome. Cant believe all the feedback i got from my first post. I am on the hunt for a new 7wt rod. Like the reel, I am on a budget. Been looking at a few rods, but also open to suggestions. I will be targeting bonefish, and it is very windy where I fish. Cant really cast and feel for myself because lack of local shops. Anyways, looking at the TFO BVK, Redington Vapen, and Sage Motive (on the expensive side). Like I said, I want to hear your opinion and open to other suggestions under the $450 mark.


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## Miamiflats (Dec 28, 2015)

resin_head said:


> This forum is awesome. Cant believe all the feedback i got from my first post. I am on the hunt for a new 7wt rod. Like the reel, I am on a budget. Been looking at a few rods, but also open to suggestions. I will be targeting bonefish, and it is very windy where I fish. Cant really cast and feel for myself because lack of local shops. Anyways, looking at the TFO BVK, Redington Vapen, and Sage Motive (on the expensive side). Like I said, I want to hear your opinion and open to other suggestions under the $450 mark.



I think you would be very pleased with the TFO. For the price point they are very hard to beat. Great warranty, great customer service.


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## erikb85 (Jun 13, 2014)

The motive is a nice stick and I'm not a sage guy


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

No doubt in my mind out of the rods you have there, the 7wt BVK would be the one I'd pick. I know all those rods well. I really wanted the Vapen to be a great rod, but there is something about it that keeps it from being a great rod and I find the BVK just has more smooth energy without anything clogging up the drain. The Motive is meant for trout fishermen from up north to adapt to fishing the salt and bass. It's a bit more buggy whippy, like the Mangrove IMO in that weight rod than the other 2.

I would also throw the Orvis Recon, Scott Tidal, Hardy ProAxis and Loomis Cross Current GLX and the Redington Predator. I would even say the Marshfly Journeyman, but I have no idea where you can try one out. I still haven't been able to get my hands on that rod to throw it.

The BVK will be the easiest to find and pick one up. It's a fast rod but in that weight, it has feel to it. designed for more open flats casting and wade fishing where mid range casting 40-70ft is going to be the norm. But it's not the easiest rod to throw if you are not use to throwing fast rods. So it will take some real practice to get it dialed in. You may also want to spend some time with a casting instructor so he can see what you are doing and help you dial in good proper casting techniques.

The other rods above have their advantages too. I think the Vapen would be a better yak rod and the Motive and Mangrove would be a better bass or close range small redfish and sea trout rod. So it's key to understand your goals and then fit the rod to what you are going to be doing the most of. Then casting techniques need to be curtailed around that also.

So what's your plans for the rod mostly?

Ted Haas


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## jamie (Jan 22, 2016)

IMHO the vapen isn't in the same league as the other two.
2nd vote for checking out the orvis recon.


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## CurtisWright (May 9, 2012)

TFO. TiCRX is my pick. You may also be able to get a deal on a sage one here in a few weeks once the x comes out


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## resin_head (Jun 1, 2016)

Backwater said:


> No doubt in my mind out of the rods you have there, the 7wt BVK would be the one I'd pick. I know all those rods well. I really wanted the Vapen to be a great rod, but there is something about it that keeps it from being a great rod and I find the BVK just has more smooth energy without anything clogging up the drain. The Motive is meant for trout fishermen from up north to adapt to fishing the salt and bass. It's a bit more buggy whippy, like the Mangrove IMO in that weight rod than the other 2.
> 
> I would also throw the Orvis Recon, Scott Tidal, Hardy ProAxis and Loomis Cross Current GLX and the Redington Predator. I would even say the Marshfly Journeyman, but I have no idea where you can try one out. I still haven't been able to get my hands on that rod to throw it.
> 
> ...


I will be wade fishing for Bonefish. I won't be making too many long range casts, but I live in an area where 20mph winds are a norm (sometimes even more). Never heard of the Marshfly Journeyman, but I'll check that one out too.

Will the rod choice recommendation differ if I decide to stick with a 6wt (its what I am currently using)?


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## resin_head (Jun 1, 2016)

CurtisWright said:


> TFO. TiCRX is my pick. You may also be able to get a deal on a sage one here in a few weeks once the x comes out


I have a TiCr. Have you casted both the TiCr and TiCrX? I am curious about the difference between the two rods.


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## CurtisWright (May 9, 2012)

resin_head said:


> I have a TiCr. Have you casted both the TiCr and TiCrX? I am curious about the difference between the two rods.


Never coasted the ticr. The TICRX is faster than the BVK. Less control on the close shots, but you can really get the line out there.

If I was in your situation I would just fish what I had and then try and tack a fly shop visit onto you next trip away from home.


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## erikb85 (Jun 13, 2014)

I had a TiCr 7 and was upgraded to a bvk when it broke. The TiCr was great but was heavier and casted a lot heavier than the bvk. The bvk is a great rod and I grab for it most of the time. It's handled some huge carp and nice smallmouth but the bvk in general is a tad fragile.


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

Resin head, the TiCr was slower and heavier than the TiCrX, more like a TFO Professional (original Pro, not the Pro II) with larger ferrals. The TiCrX is lighter and stiffer than the TiCrX. Nevertheless, IMO, both of those rods are a bit too clunky for my taste but the TiCrX will certainly work in a 7wt. But as you go up the line in that rod, they feel too much like a broomstick. Still they have their place and I consider them to be more of a lifting rod than anything else. Not necessarily needed bonefishing. Curtis, don't confuse stiffness with being fast. The BVK is faster, but the TiCrX is stiffer.

Resin Head, for bonefish as a 7wt rod, to me, the BVK would be the rod of choice. I would match that with SA's Expert Distance line, especially for wind and small bonefish flies. There is a link where it's currently on sale. What I like with that rod and that size rods throwing bonefish size flies for bones, is the SA ED line has a long back taper for easy control, especially for bonefishing. The line is also brutally accurate. But it's not design for big flies.

I would recommend the 7 over the 6wt with those winds. You might even need to step uo to an 8wt, but a 7wt is a sweet rod to throw.

Where are you located? What rods are you using there currently?


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## millerrep (Apr 14, 2014)

I gotta chime in. I'm a 2 year novice to fly fishing. Having a blast on the beach. Started with a BPS 9 wt, my son gave me a old but good, really never used reddington real. Fished this for 2 seasons on the beach, two different lines. Wanted to go with something lighter as l blind cast in cloudy water conditions. I got a old 7wt Fenwick, old but never used, still I the bag and tube. It was a retirement rod given to a fellow that worked there. Was hoping if would be jewel, did not turn out that way, too soft, sweet but soft and the beach breeze ate it up.

So wanted a bvk mangrove 8 wt, steering away from the bvk because of the lifting power listed on bvk site. Got some more free counsel from the local shop. Big snook, windy conditions, intermediate line, couple fellows said get the TRcix. It will work for all those conditions.. 

So I did, some bucks but not crazy, never paid that much for a spinner or bait caster. Stuck a Lamson liquid on it, yea I'm cheap. Lined it with a SA 250 wf Surf clear line on it. Had it on the water 4 times. Dang thing works nice!! Tested the power on 3 ft plus monster surf Snook, 10 minute fight multi jumps before he wore through the 20lb fluorocarbon. But it was enough rod to bring in in. The wind conditions on the beach and wanting to use subsurface line was the main reasons for getting this. After 3 hours casting it feels super light compared to the BPS entry level rod. 

Could say I love it, but can't be satisfied to quickly.


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## resin_head (Jun 1, 2016)

CurtisWright said:


> Never coasted the ticr. The TICRX is faster than the BVK. Less control on the close shots, but you can really get the line out there.
> 
> If I was in your situation I would just fish what I had and then try and tack a fly shop visit onto you next trip away from home.


yeah, ill be in bradenton area next month for a wedding. planning on doing lots of fishing, but will try some shops and some rods when i am there.


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## resin_head (Jun 1, 2016)

Backwater said:


> Resin head, the TiCr was slower and heavier than the TiCrX, more like a TFO Professional (original Pro, not the Pro II) with larger ferrals. The TiCrX is lighter and stiffer than the TiCrX. Nevertheless, IMO, both of those rods are a bit too clunky for my taste but the TiCrX will certainly work in a 7wt. But as you go up the line in that rod, they feel too much like a broomstick. Still they have their place and I consider them to be more of a lifting rod than anything else. Not necessarily needed bonefishing. Curtis, don't confuse stiffness with being fast. The BVK is faster, but the TiCrX is stiffer.
> 
> Resin Head, for bonefish as a 7wt rod, to me, the BVK would be the rod of choice. I would match that with SA's Expert Distance line, especially for wind and small bonefish flies. There is a link where it's currently on sale. What I like with that rod and that size rods throwing bonefish size flies for bones, is the SA ED line has a long back taper for easy control, especially for bonefishing. The line is also brutally accurate. But it's not design for big flies.
> 
> ...


Backwater, I live in Hawaii. Not your normal keys/bahamas type fishing conditions...at least what I have gathered from reading and videos on the internet. I have never been or fished either place. Our bonefish are big (5/6lbs average, and double digit not uncommon), and the conditions aren't too favorable to catching. Reefs, coral heads, average winds of 15-25 knots, but fish are everywhere and I love it. The flies used here are different too. Very heavy, and on the bigger side. Most have big lead eyes. Need the fly to get down in a hurry, and stay there. Most fishing i do is knee deep or deeper, occasionally shin deep water (if i make it to the infamous flat in town). 

My current setup is a 6wt TFO TiCr with a Galvan Torque T6. I only have 1 rod and reel. I fish it fine, despite the wind and heavy flies. I was thinking 7wt because it would be easier to cast into the wind, but I don't mind my 6wt. Really, its the drag fighting the fish, not the rod. Not like I am trying to keep a snook or bull red out of the mangroves, just letting the green torpedo make his run and hope he doesn't break me off on the coral. I just think life would be better casting flies with a rod that had a faster action than the TFO TiCr, whether it be a 6 or 7wt. I do think an 8wt is unnecessary.


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## resin_head (Jun 1, 2016)

Backwater, I would also like to add that I am 90% of the time wade fishing, casting to fish I see. I don't like to take a shot at a fish over 60' away. I try to cut if off, anticipating where it is going to swim. Most casts are in the 20-50' range. Sometimes just a roll cast away.


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

resin_head said:


> Backwater, I would also like to add that I am 90% of the time wade fishing, casting to fish I see. I don't like to take a shot at a fish over 60' away. I try to cut if off, anticipating where it is going to swim. Most casts are in the 20-50' range. Sometimes just a roll cast away.


This is why I try to ask questions to get more detail of the situation. No one here would have ever thought that you were in Hawaii and fishing those bonefish in those conditions. I've heard and seen flicks about those big bones over there. That is a bucket list trip for me for sure! So everything I said previously, you can scrap! None of that will work for the most part. So the 7wt BVK with that SA ED line is out! Btw, I thought you said you were looking for a little more distance with your new rod?

So here's the thing.... You need a rod to throw the line it takes to throw the distance that's needed to throw those flies. Not necessarily the rod for fighting (which can still be a factor). I mean, you don't want to be fighting those fish with a 3wt wet noodle rod. Tho I know the water there is somewhat cool, even in the heat of the summer, you still need to get the fish in quickly as possible so they don't over exhaust themselves.

Going with another Galvan Torque is fine to match your other reel. Nothing wrong with that reel nor the company. Both are good! But before I continue, what exact line are you throwing with that 6wt TiCr? What are the size of the lead eyes of the flies you are throwing. What size hooks (what are they) and what are the lengths of those flies. Can you post a pic of the flies from photobucket or something like that?


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## resin_head (Jun 1, 2016)

Backwater said:


> This is why I try to ask questions to get more detail of the situation. No one here would have ever thought that you were in Hawaii and fishing those bonefish in those conditions. I've heard and seen flicks about those big bones over there. That is a bucket list trip for me for sure! So everything I said previously, you can scrap! None of that will work for the most part. So the 7wt BVK with that SA ED line is out! Btw, I thought you said you were looking for a little more distance with your new rod?
> 
> So here's the thing.... You need a rod to throw the line it takes to throw the distance that's needed to throw those flies. Not necessarily the rod for fighting (which can still be a factor). I mean, you don't want to be fighting those fish with a 3wt wet noodle rod. Tho I know the water there is somewhat cool, even in the heat of the summer, you still need to get the fish in quickly as possible so they don't over exhaust themselves.
> 
> Going with another Galvan Torque is fine to match your other reel. Nothing wrong with that reel nor the company. Both are good! But before I continue, what exact line are you throwing with that 6wt TiCr? What are the size of the lead eyes of the flies you are throwing. What size hooks (what are they) and what are the lengths of those flies. Can you post a pic of the flies from photobucket or something like that?


I don't know what size the eyes are, I didn't tie the flies. They are lead eyes though. Bead chain does not sink fast enough. The hooks range from 2-6 I'm guessing. Some are bigger bodied than others, but mainly mantis shrimp patterns. Here are a couple I had lying around:

The fly line I am currently using is Rio Bonefish 6wt floating. Its shredded pretty bad from the coral when the fish run, so I ordered the quick shooter line in 6wt. It should get here today and I plan on fishing tomorrow, so we'll see how it goes.


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## Canoeman (Jul 23, 2008)

I also have a TICRX 6wt which I use for redfish most of the time. For the windy conditions I prefer my Sage Xi3 7 wt, and that rod will throw a bonefish line a long way.
I did have the opportunity to throw my friend's 8wt BVK on our last fishing trip and it was very smooth and powerful. To me it felt smoother than the Xi3 for sure. I really liked it a lot. Still not giving up the Sage though.


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## JappyFish (Mar 1, 2014)

I don't own a 7wt, but I've got a couple of 8wts and some smaller stuff. Really it depends on what you want. Just because the rod is $1000 doesn't mean it will catch fish. I know a trout bum that lives in Montana and his favorite rod is a $75 dollar Eagle Claw. Definitely go cast before you buy if you can, if all else fails, you can buy the rod and return it if you don't like it.

I've got this one in a 5wt, and it's pretty baller - Orvis Recon 907-4 Fly Rod (7wt 9'0" 4pc)








This was actually my first rod, but I have it in an 8wt.- Orvis Clearwater Fly Rod 7wt 10'0" 4pc









This is the next rod that I'm probably going to buy, possibly in a 10wt or 12wt as well. It's hard to beat - Redington Fly Fishing Vapen Black Fly Rod 7wt 9ft 0in 4pc









And the EAGLE CLAW. $20 bucks??? WWHY NOTTTT - Eagle Claw W Eagle Fly Rod 8'6 2Pc 7/8Wt


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

Tho the pics are not posting well for some reason. the pic there is tiny, but I think I can make out what you have. It appears to be #4 to #2 size hooks with size Medium lead eyes, but no smaller than a size Small. I have to say that those flies are too heavy for a 6wt or even a 7wt flyline, and therefore rods. So it's going to be very clunky cast and not so accurate. If you were using a floater line, then the bonefish lines, like the Rio will not handle those flies well at all and with the wind, your cast will be all over the place. Also, that rod is way too light for that size bones in and around coral. If you are saying you fight them on the reel, then your rod (especially that TiCr rod will flex down (even if you were holding your rod high) and will allow the flyline will stay lower and drag over the coral. If you went to a bigger and stiffer rod, then you can put more power on the fish and therefore, while holding your rod high (which is what you need to do with those fish around the coral), then it will help to keep the flyline up and off the coral beds and therefore help keep it from getting shredded. If you were on an open sand flat in the Bahamas, then no problem. But you are combat fishing with those big bones and you need all the help you can dish up.

So with that said, I still think you really need to step up to an 8wt instead of a 7wt for too many reasons (i,e. the heavy flies, the winds, the fish, the backbone needed, etc, etc...) I do like the backbone that the TiCrx can offer you. But the rod is stiff throughout, so throwing "close in" is a real challenge with that rod. Funny thing is, out of the original 3 rods you mentioned in your original post above, the Sage Motive would be better suited, tho I think it doesn't quite have the backbone you are looking for. The reason I said this is the top end of the rod has more flex or progressive action and would make it easy to smoothly cast 20 to 40ft and still get you out to 50-60ft with no problems. But again, it doesn't quite have the backbone needed. So the rods I'd recommend for that particular situation are the Redington Predator, TFO Mangrove, Scott Tidal, Orvis Recon or the Loomis Cross Current (not the GLX version). The Marshfly is out since you wouldn't have a place to try out the rod. But for that situation, probably the Backcountry would be better than the Journeyman. Here is what I really recommend without taking a journey all over Hawaii or Florida (in your case, Bradenton). Get either the TFO Mangrove or Redington Predator. Either one is find and easy to find in a shop to test. But I lean towards the Mangrove for your situation. It's very similar to what someone would do in the Louisiana marshes with those short cast with big heavy flies and lots of backbone needed. However, if you need to constantly throw further with a heavier line, then the Predator is a great stick for the money to do so.

If I was throwing a "all floating flyline" at those fish with those flies, I would at least go to a Rio Bonefish Quick Shooter or a Rio Redfish. Both lines are heavier (someone said they checked with Rio and they stated they are the exact same line). Some people grip about that line, stating it's heavier than the standard flyline. Maybe true! But for your situation, I have to say that a flyline that is heavier than the standard line is an advantage for you since you need to load the rod quick and short to get that short cast out there in a hurry. It sacrifices presentation to do so, but with those bones holding deep and the rough surface of the water due to 20mph winds, you can get away with it. Also, the short, stout and heavier head is what you need to throw those heavy "clouser like" flies to them.

But..... Here's the "however"..... *However*, you can get away from the flies being so heavy by using a floater with a clear intermediate sink tip flyline. That does multiple things for you. The extra weight of the tip helps to load the rod better than a standard floater. The intermediate sink tip will sink down more level to the fish in that knee deep of water, so you can go with flies that were not so heavier. Bonefish prefer their bait and therefore flies to bump more level rather than hop up high and the intermediate line allows the fly to do so (think about that one for a minute). Those lighter flies will be easier to cast and easier to cast further. Since the flies will be lighter, you can tighten up your loops and therefore, cut the wind easier and then actually cast further when needed. Your casting will feel smoother and easier since you are throwing lighter flies. You could possibly get away with bead chain eyes on your flies, if not ex sm size dumbell eyes. That translate to being able to get away with a 7wt if you really are bent on doing so. But the trade off to throwing an intermediate sink tip line is it takes a bit more effort to get the tip up to the top of the water to be able to pick it up off the water in order to get it up in the air to cast it back out there again. Roll casting the fly line is a great way to get the tip and therefore the fly up to the top in order to pick it up off the top of the water to make your cast. Finally, the clear tip of that line allows you to shorten up your leader system and thereby making it more capable to turn over those heavier flies. It also puts the opaic look of the flyline further away from the bonefish, making it more stealthy. However, for bones, I would still be throwing a 9ft long leader, tippet system using (in your situation) all fluorocarbon. The FC is stiffer than mono and will help sink the fly down to those fish. It also sinks where Mason floats. So the stiffness of the FC will also help turn over those heavier flies. and since FC by nature is stealthier, you can get away with shorter leaders. Also it has a benefit of more abrasion resistance. Great for the coral.

So the floater line with the intermediate clear sink tip allows the front of the tip and 1st part of the head to sink while the rest of the head and running line floats up on top of the water, making it easier to pick it up off the water and shoot the running line which is still floating on top of the water. A full intermediate sink line wouldn't allow you to do that without a stripping basket, which, in this situation, I don't think it's needed. However, in your knee deep wading situation, especially in high winds, I always recommend a stripping basket. A good intermediate clear sink tip line that I really like is Cortland Tropic Plus 9 or 15ft Ghost Tip. But there are other clear intermediate sink tip floating lines out there. I think Rio even has one, but I've never tried it.

Anna Maria Island (AMI) Outfitters carries the Redington Predator (Tell Steve I referred you) or the Compound Board Shop in Sarasota carries the TFO Mangrove. But both can be purchased from Bass Pro Shops (new one build in Brandon), But they are priced at retail and I recommend doing business with the local fly shops instead. When you get in to Bradenton, PM me and you can meet up with me and I can help you with your cast and helping you with the sink tip line, if you decide to buy one. I live on the north side of the Manatee River.

Good luck!

Ted Haas


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## el9surf (Dec 23, 2008)

I have a 6wt bvk it's a great rod for the money. Cork sucks on it, my only complaint. The cross current pro 1 7wt is also a great rod, have one of those as well. It can be found in your budget.


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## sjrobin (Jul 13, 2015)

Great analysis Ted. How about a 8wt ten footer for wading?


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## LowHydrogen (Dec 31, 2015)

I have a TFO Axiom 8wt with Std Rio BoneFish not the Quickshooter. I use the BoneFish line even though I don't BoneFish because the taper and weight is better than the Redfish flavors...... It will absoloutely BOMB a fly line, and has a lot of power.

Good Luck


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

sjrobin said:


> Great analysis Ted. How about a 8wt ten footer for wading?


He doesn't need it for those 20-40ft cast. He could even get away with a slightly shorter rod than a 9ft in that scenario.


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

LowHydrogen said:


> I have a TFO Axiom 8wt with Std Rio BoneFish not the Quickshooter. I use the BoneFish line even though I don't BoneFish because the taper and weight is better than the Redfish flavors...... It will absoloutely BOMB a fly line, and has a lot of power.
> 
> Good Luck


LowHrdrogen, I had that rod (hey you might have bought it from me on ebay?? lol). Love the rod when it's overlined or using a heavier line like a sink tip or intermediate. A Rio Redfish works great on that rod as well and Yes, you can bomb that line. But it sucks for close distance shooting since it has hardly much flex to the rod. The Mangrove will be better suited for his situation.

Ted


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## LowHydrogen (Dec 31, 2015)

Ahhh, My mistake, I should have read the first post a little more carefully, when I think about needing to buck the wind, I'm thinking at distance, they're mostly always hand in hand but not always (like OPs current situation).... 

Ted, What about those Shore-Stalker Loomis rods? They're shorter and are supposed to have plenty of backbone but load decent close in? I have no experience with them but thought you might. I think they're around his $ range...

Tight Lines
LH


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

LowHydrogen said:


> Ahhh, My mistake, I should have read the first post a little more carefully, when I think about needing to buck the wind, I'm thinking at distance, they're mostly always hand in hand but not always (like OPs current situation)....
> 
> Ted, What about those Shore-Stalker Loomis rods? They're shorter and are supposed to have plenty of backbone but load decent close in? I have no experience with them but thought you might. I think they're around his $ range...
> 
> ...


Yea throwing a short rod is a hoot and lots of fun to throw. However, he's deep wading and needs the extra height to keep is fly line up off the water when casting. 2nd, he needs the extra height to hold the flyline high so it doesn't shred thru the coral. On a skiff with a casting platform, well then that would be another story.

Steve's (sjrobin) idea is a good one about going witha 10ft 8wt since it helps to hold that fly line up even higher while casting and fighting the fish on coral. But it's a bear to cast short. If he was chucking flies 50-90ft, then I'd say "yah mon!" but it's weird casting rods that long short. Almost like fallen a tree! lol


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## resin_head (Jun 1, 2016)

your post was long, so I will respond to it in parts. 


Backwater said:


> Tho the pics are not posting well for some reason. the pic there is tiny, but I think I can make out what you have. It appears to be #4 to #2 size hooks with size Medium lead eyes, but no smaller than a size Small. I have to say that those flies are too heavy for a 6wt or even a 7wt flyline, and therefore rods. So it's going to be very clunky cast and not so accurate. If you were using a floater line, then the bonefish lines, like the Rio will not handle those flies well at all and with the wind, your cast will be all over the place. Also, that rod is way too light for that size bones in and around coral. If you are saying you fight them on the reel, then your rod (especially that TiCr rod will flex down (even if you were holding your rod high) and will allow the flyline will stay lower and drag over the coral. If you went to a bigger and stiffer rod, then you can put more power on the fish and therefore, while holding your rod high (which is what you need to do with those fish around the coral), then it will help to keep the flyline up and off the coral beds and therefore help keep it from getting shredded. If you were on an open sand flat in the Bahamas, then no problem. But you are combat fishing with those big bones and you need all the help you can dish up.


This is the internet, and we aren't talking in person. Please don't take anything I say as an attack or with a negative connotation, things can get lost in translation. When I visit Bradenton next month, I'd love to meet up in person and pick your brain. You seem to know lots about gear and flyfishing. 

Having said all that, Ive done some thinking since your last post. Although I would not consider myself an expert caster by any means, but I don't really have much a problem casting the heavy flies into the wind with my 6wt. It isn't easy, but I can do it. Yes, I am sure it would be way easier with a 8wt. I am thinking now maybe I will get a new 6wt rod (faster taper/action), and then have an 8wt set up as well, and kinda buck the 7wt idea.

Second, my line isn't getting shredded by "sagging". Its more the fish makes a run, and burns by a coral head sticking up higher off the reef than the normal reef floor. Much like a snook taking you into the mangroves or wrapping you around a pylon. I don't think any style rod is going to help with that problem. It is what it is. Not all spots I fish have a reef that gnarly. Some are more sand based bottoms.

3rd, I fished a couple days in heavy wind with the new Rio quick shoot. Took some time getting used to. I actually didn't like it as much casting super close as I do the normal Rio Bonefish line. It seems the quick shoot is thinner towards the tip, but then like 15' back or so it gets thicker than the Rio Bonefish. This makes getting the line loaded hard when trying to cast close quickly like 20' or so (against or with wind). Once you have enough line out, the Quickshooter launches like a bullet against the wind to the 30-60' range. So in the 30-60+ range, the Rio Quickshoot shines. Contrary to the common thought, in my situation, I like the origional Rio Bonefish to cast close, and can manage mid distances fine with my 6wt.


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## LowHydrogen (Dec 31, 2015)

This will be a bit off your original query but after you get your new rod...

You may consider playing with your fly lines, it may be beneficial to trim some of the front taper off your longer taper fly lines. This would allow the rod to load with less line out the tip (putting the heavier section out the tip of the rod sooner). With windy choppy conditions you describe, you might even build your own custom mini shooting head system that your could vary based on conditions, with a slightly longer leader to keep from spooking them. I

Take that comment knowing that I'm not a Bone-fish guy and currently obsessed with learning Spey & Skagit casting (going to an event today actually)....


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

resin_head said:


> your post was long, so I will respond to it in parts.
> 
> 
> This is the internet, and we aren't talking in person. Please don't take anything I say as an attack or with a negative connotation, things can get lost in translation. When I visit Bradenton next month, I'd love to meet up in person and pick your brain. You seem to know lots about gear and flyfishing.
> ...


When I mentioned getting shredded, I knew exactly what you were referring to in your original reply when you mentioned coral. I've had the problem in the Keys and the eastern Antilles. Holding your rod as high as you can on those runs avoids a lot of evils and having a rod that is a little more stiffer, at lease in the mid section, as well as more backbone to keep it from bending near the handle, will help to hold the line even higher. Also, by going up to an 8wt, that rod is naturally beefier to begin with throughout, so it will by default help to hold the flyline better, up off the coral beds.

I've never owned a Rio Bonefish Quick Shooter, just thrown a few and not paying that much attention about short casting with it. The Rio Redfish, I have and know that it is a good short casting line. Someone on this board said they called Rio and Rio claimed that it was the same tapered line, so I am going off on that. If you bought the BF Quick Shooter from a local fly shop there in Hawaii (if they have one), then maybe they can trade you out if you only used it once or twice, or maybe let you try out the Rio Redfish. Again, on the flip side, by going to a clear intermediate line or clear intermediate tip floater, you can reduce the weight of the fly and the front tip of the flyline will help to get the fly down to the fish with less weight. I've used Cortland's Tropic Plus Ghost tip 9ft clear intermediate tip floating flyline on my 6wt and it does good loading short also does good slicing thru wind to shoot line out. If you are stuck with that flyline, then I guess you can do what LowHydrogen mentioned and clip back the level tip some, without going into the taper that get's bigger towards the head. Then either form your fly line loop connection, nail knot it or add a braided loop (my advise) and then add a 3ft piece of heavier fluorocarbon (like 40-50lb) before you tie on your tapered leader.

Please don't take my sarcasm personally up on that previous reply. I have a habit of doing that to prove a point (example.... "might as well shoot that heavy fly out there with a wrist rocket!" ) I'm trying to point out that throwing big heavy flies like that is not the norm and the lighter flylines are not designed to do that. Like I said, the rod is design to cast the flyline, not the fly. The fly is just along for the ride. If the fly is not properly designed for the fly line to carry it, then it causes problems in the flyline and that translates to your ability to cast it properly. When I got into fly fishing, I had the need to go to a very small, but weighted jig for snook on the beach. Basically we were catching snook on small white crappie jigs on ultra light spinning outfits with 6lb test mono. it was hard to cast them far enough to them. So a friend recommend I get a fly rod and he tied some flies similar to them. It was a 5wt and even he had a hard time casting those heavier weighted flies to them. I ended up going to a long thin spinning rod designed for steelhead to throw those jigs out. Eventually, I got a bigger fly rod and got the thing figured out with a fly rod. Point is, I'm sure you can chunk those flies out, but it's easier to do it with fly lines and equipment designed for that sort of thing.

I have a feeling you are military (Navy?) and are coming home to Bradenton to visit family? No? Sure I'd like to meet up or you can stop by the house. 
Btw, I talk here like I'm taking to them face to face, sitting down over coffee and having a conversation. I hide nothing.


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## resin_head (Jun 1, 2016)

Backwater said:


> When I mentioned getting shredded, I knew exactly what you were referring to in your original reply when you mentioned coral. I've had the problem in the Keys and the eastern Antilles. Holding your rod as high as you can on those runs avoids a lot of evils and having a rod that is a little more stiffer, at lease in the mid section, as well as more backbone to keep it from bending near the handle, will help to hold the line even higher. Also, by going up to an 8wt, that rod is naturally beefier to begin with throughout, so it will by default help to hold the flyline better, up off the coral beds.
> 
> I've never owned a Rio Bonefish Quick Shooter, just thrown a few and not paying that much attention about short casting with it. The Rio Redfish, I have and know that it is a good short casting line. Someone on this board said they called Rio and Rio claimed that it was the same tapered line, so I am going off on that. If you bought the BF Quick Shooter from a local fly shop there in Hawaii (if they have one), then maybe they can trade you out if you only used it once or twice, or maybe let you try out the Rio Redfish. Again, on the flip side, by going to a clear intermediate line or clear intermediate tip floater, you can reduce the weight of the fly and the front tip of the flyline will help to get the fly down to the fish with less weight. I've used Cortland's Tropic Plus Ghost tip 9ft clear intermediate tip floating flyline on my 6wt and it does good loading short also does good slicing thru wind to shoot line out. If you are stuck with that flyline, then I guess you can do what LowHydrogen mentioned and clip back the level tip some, without going into the taper that get's bigger towards the head. Then either form your fly line loop connection, nail knot it or add a braided loop (my advise) and then add a 3ft piece of heavier fluorocarbon (like 40-50lb) before you tie on your tapered leader.
> 
> ...


Not military. Moved for surf, and work. I build surfboards (hence name resin head). I grew up in bradenton, fishing from south tampa to south sarasota. Never took offense, and figured you were strait up. I mean, most times you sign your real name after your post, so obviously you've got nothing to hide, haha.


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## resin_head (Jun 1, 2016)

LowHydrogen said:


> This will be a bit off your original query but after you get your new rod...
> 
> You may consider playing with your fly lines, it may be beneficial to trim some of the front taper off your longer taper fly lines. This would allow the rod to load with less line out the tip (putting the heavier section out the tip of the rod sooner). With windy choppy conditions you describe, you might even build your own custom mini shooting head system that your could vary based on conditions, with a slightly longer leader to keep from spooking them. I
> 
> Take that comment knowing that I'm not a Bone-fish guy and currently obsessed with learning Spey & Skagit casting (going to an event today actually)....


I will give that a try. good idea. thanks.


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

resin_head said:


> Not military. Moved for surf, and work. I build surfboards (hence name resin head). I grew up in bradenton, fishing from south tampa to south sarasota. Never took offense, and figured you were strait up. I mean, most times you sign your real name after your post, so obviously you've got nothing to hide, haha.


Cool! You're "Livin the dream!!" Awesome!


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## millerrep (Apr 14, 2014)

The TFO 8wt with Lampson Liguid is working well. This guy had me in the backing, before I hit the drag.


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## resin_head (Jun 1, 2016)

MariettaMike said:


> I have a used, never repaired, 9' Sage One 4 piece 7 wt I'll sell you for $250 plus $25 for PayPal & shipping CONUS. Includes rod, sock, tube, blank warranty card.


sent you a dm


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## sjrobin (Jul 13, 2015)

Nice rod and a good deal resin.


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

resin_head said:


> sent you a dm


Yea ok, that's a good deal and that rod should flex just enough to throw short with a short heavy head like a Rio Redfish or an intermediate line.


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## resin_head (Jun 1, 2016)

MariettaMike said:


> I have a used, never repaired, 9' Sage One 4 piece 7 wt I'll sell you for $250 plus $25 for PayPal & shipping CONUS. Includes rod, sock, tube, blank warranty card.


You still have the rod for sale? I tried to send a message, not sure if you got it or not. Still very interested. Thanks!


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## MariettaMike (Jun 14, 2012)

resin_head said:


> You still have the rod for sale? I tried to send a message, not sure if you got it or not. Still very interested. Thanks!


At $250 I was honestly expecting an "I'll take it!". So, kinda like the soup nazi from Seinfeld, "No fly rod for you!"


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## resin_head (Jun 1, 2016)

MariettaMike said:


> At $250 I was honestly expecting an "I'll take it!". So, kinda like the soup nazi from Seinfeld, "No fly rod for you!"


Seriously? Excuse me for asking a couple questions, wanting a picture or 2, not wanting to buy a rod sight unseen from a complete stranger online. Good luck finding someone else to lick your balls. It's all good tho man. Guys like you make me laugh, but whatever gets you going i guess. Aloha.


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## LowHydrogen (Dec 31, 2015)




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