# Boat Project Paint Choice



## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

I have recently seem two different boats painted with Emc paint and they both looked really good.

https://geniusbucket.com/products/genius-bucket-diy-paint-kit


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

Interlux perfection, epifanes, emc....can all be rolled and tipped easily with good results. They are 2-part paints and will hold up well. If on a serious budget then interlux brightsides, Pettit easypoxy, or even rustoleum can work, just won't be as durable so you will have to touch it up every so often.


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## seapro17sv (Feb 3, 2015)

revenuer95b said:


> I was hoping to get some advice about hull paint paint choices. I am replacing the transom and it will be a little taller. The project boat I am currently working is a small Blazer skiff with a faded gel coat. What is the best option for the DIY project and not sure I want to spray I don't have much experience with that. Any advice I need easy to use products that will hold up. Looking at an OD hull with Tan decks and interior.


I've also heard good things about the EMC paints. I've personally painted a lot of boats, mostly roll and tip, with Awlgrip with great results, but it's incredibly expensive, and highly toxic. 13 years after painting my sailboat it still had a shine even in the Florida sun. Never dulls or gets chalky like gelcoat, and is hard as a rock. Super easy to mix and apply. Mike


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## paint it black (Nov 3, 2007)

I used to paint boats professionally throughout the years, from refitting/repainting lifeboats for Carnival, to painting half a million dollar speed boats. And a bunch of microskiff projects for my group of friends and myself. If I was going to take on a project, I would definitely use AwlGrip. It doesn't get any better than that really. It can be difficult to spray if you haven't sprayed it a lot, but I hear guys have great results by roll and tipping using AwlGrip.

A much easier / cheaper alternative but still have a great end result would be Interlux Perfection. It's very similar to AwlGrip, except it seems to be geared more towards the DIY guy at home. They make it easier for you when you buy it, it's essentially the kit of a sprayable quart. Whereas when buying AwlGrip you need to know what you need, and buy it, then mix it accordingly. Interlux kind of does all that for you. You buy the can of Perfection, and mix the catalyst into the paint, stir it up, and it's ready to go. They actually leave the can of paint a third empty for you to simply pour the catalyst into the paint can. I use a bit of Interlux spray thinner when I sprayed it, to ensure a nice glossy smooth finish, but they say you can spray it without thinner.


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

Rolling will give excellent results and is a lot cleaner, healthier, less equipment intensive, and environmentally safe than spraying, no matter what paint you choose. Interlux Brightside is the easiest and least expensive and will give excellent result rolled on. Next most expensive and complicated would be Interlux Perfection. It's a two part paint and probably a little harder than Brightside. The gold standard is AwlGrip. I would never recommend AwlGrip for a first timer. It yields a very hard, very shiny, very durable finish, but is highly toxic, requires precise mixing and application and is very expensive. Perfection and AwlGrip roll on very nicely.


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## revenuer95b (Jul 3, 2015)

Interlux Perfection looks like a good option the only issue is the limited colors. I wanted a green and tan or gray. They have green but I can't find a gray or tan. Has anybody used any of the Supermarine Marine Paints made by Top Secret Coatings. Vertigo I hear you on the Awlgrip. I am a bit nervous about using it. The interlux seems a bit more DIY friendly.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

I ran into the same issues with perfection, the colors offered are to limited. I haven't used it yet, but some guys seem to like the 2-part Epifanes. I plan on trying it on the next project, it's supposed to be similar to perfection, bit comes in a bunch of colors.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.co...-Part+PolyUrethane+Custom+Professional+Colors


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## revenuer95b (Jul 3, 2015)

My plan is to do Graphite Epoxy o the bottom. I have been doing research and think that I need about 25% Graphite to the epoxy, I will be rolling that on. Any advice on how many coats. of Graphite/epoxy mix? Beyond that I need a good paint for the hull and interior. I would like a good nonskid for the interior. This is a fishing/hunting boat so the I am not sure if I want to spend big money on paint.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

25% by volume is about what I did, after several years I needed to touch up the keel from beaching but that was it. Think I did 3 light coats total rolling and tipping. Not sure if I'm going to use graphite or white graphite /HBN next time, but I'll definitely do some kind of coating.

Is this going to be a long term boat, or a junker you will beat up for a few seasons then ditch?


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

If it is a beater, consider oil based marine enamel. If it is a nice hull with decent resale value, stop reading now.

I had trouble finding flat camo colors for my boat in any of the nice paints. I ended up using oil based marine enamel from Lock, Stock and Barrel. Parker Paints, Rustoleum and Lock, Stick and Barrel all sell flat marine enamels in camo colors. They aren't as durable as the high end hull paints, but they are still dang tough. My hull needs touched up right now, but that is due to repairs; the paint looked great until I slopped epoxy on the side while fixing the bottom and had to sand it back off. 

I used playsand in the interior as nonskid and I am not impressed with how the marine enamel held up with the sand in it, but oil based paint isn't an adhesive, so my expectations were unrealistic. I should have stuck the sand in a layer of epoxy, coated it with another layer of epoxy and then painted over that.

Nate


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## revenuer95b (Jul 3, 2015)

The boat had a soft transom and soft floors. Rotten is a better description for the floor. I have removed the wood in the transom but can't seem to get the last vaneer out of the corner can't get a sander to it. How long I keep it will greatly depend on how well it turns out. I can only find 1/2" and 3/4 Douglas fir AB marine I think that's fine for the transom but was looking for something a little smaller for floor decking. The guy at mobile lumber said there exterior grade luan would work and for the floor encapsulated in fiberglass and epoxy with no direct water contact I think it will be fine as well.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

I used 3/8" BC exterior ply for the bulkheads and floor in my skiff, from home depot. Fully encapsulated in epoxy and 6oz glass it will outlast me. It's not as light as meranti or okoume, but it will do the job fine. For the transom I would use real marine ply.

I only intended this boat to be used for up to 5 years, but it would last 50 easy. The interior is painted with rustoleum with some Val spar enamel hardener mixed in. It has performed very well so far considering, but I'll be upgrading the paint on the next one.


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## revenuer95b (Jul 3, 2015)

I am thinking 1708 Bia on with 6oz under on the floor with maybe 1/4 luan 1708 on the the transom with 1/2" ply bonded to make 1" it will be the AB fir


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

1" transom is what I built and it's overkill according to some, but I'd rather go more then less.

On the flip side a 1/4" deck might have a lot of flex unless supported by a multiple stringer system. You will have a lot of resin tied up in that 1708 for no reason and it will end up weighing as much as the 3/8" with a 6oz cover.


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

One really good thing about Brightsides is that you can mix your own colors. I mixed a nice color with just white and green. Here's a shot:


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

Here's another shot of Brightsides both boats were rolled on:


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

Oh oh, we are doing show and tell?

ok, heres my skiff, built near 6 years ago. it needs a little touching up, but nothing a few hours in the morning couldn't fix. Epoxy graphite bottom, interlux brightsides on the hull sides, rustoleum with valspar enamel hardener and krylon webbing on the decks and floor.


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