# 12’ Turbot build



## Xcapnjoe (Jun 5, 2013)

I'm digging this, Indoman. 1st class.


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

I was hoping you were going to document your build on here! 

I've been thinking about buying the plans for the 16' but I know my wife would divorce me if they arrived


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## fatman (Nov 23, 2012)

awesome


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## Gatorbig (Jan 15, 2021)

Looking good!


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## Smudge (Feb 18, 2021)

Badass!


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

Lookin sweet man


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## WC53 (Dec 2, 2015)

Love it! I have been looking at those. I do have a lonely 6hp in the garage 

Well done


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Awesome. That is one of the best looking strongbacks I've seen.


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## K3anderson (Jan 23, 2013)

Wow! That pretty sweet. 9 layers in the center will probably break through rocks


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## anytide (Jul 30, 2009)

nice !!


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## Indoman (Jul 25, 2013)

Thanks for the kind words guys. More to come soon...


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## Indoman (Jul 25, 2013)

Call it the SS Fugly right now. Hit it with the palm sander and 150 grit for about 2 hrs. Then went down a rabbit hole seeing what worked the best to fill the bazillion pin holes. Glass bubbles/epoxy, Total Fair and finally 3m glazing putty. Using a slightly runny mixture of the glass bubbles/epoxy seems to work best. The 3M glazing putty went on great and looked like it would do the trick but when it dried I could hardly tell a difference. Virtually every pin hole came back. I went that route thinking a 1 part application would be easier. Nope. About 8 hours total sanding so far. 6 with the buffer sander & palm sander and another 2 hrs or so playing around with a block sander. Will fall back from the pin holes for now and work on shaping and block sanding.

After cleaning up the obvious high/low spots, shaping and sharpening the chine edges I plan to use several coats of hi build epoxy primer followed by a final coat or two of finishing primer to get it completely faired. I plan on using Alexseal for paint but it seems the Pettit hi build primer is cheaper and easier to get. Since this was an epoxy build, as long as I use an epoxy primer, I shouldn’t have any adhesion issues, correct? (Primer to hull, paint to primer)

Also considering having the entire bottom of the hull Line-X’d. I saw where the guys in Sarasota did the entire bottom of a Gheenoe. I really like the idea for hull protection but have concerns with the cost and its effect on top speed. On the Gheenoe it looked really slick/slippery so maybe it won’t make much of a difference. ?? I’d be interested to hear from anyone who has firsthand experience going this route.


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

I have had good luck with the US Composites premixed fairing compound. Still got a few pinholes, but only in the areas where I applied it a little thicker. You won't enjoy sanding it with 150 though, it is tough stuff. I used 40 grit.


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

It would be tempting to Line-X the bottom, but what a nightmare if you had to do anything to the bottom later. I have no experience with it though. These skiffs are so light that encounters with the bottom aren't the same if it was a thousand pound hull grinding into something.


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

My buddy used gator glide epoxy paint on his gheenoe, it’s super slick. I think it’s a similar product, and it’s very tough. I think it would be hard to get off though if u needed to patch up anything


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

Holy pinholes Batman! Still looks awesome though. I had better luck making my fairing slightly runny as well, but sanded with 60 grit to get rid of pinholes a little faster. Then I went around a couple times lightly with the 150. That's just what worked for me, I can't tell you if its better or worse

Shouldn't the basalt layers add abrasion resistance? There's also an option to do a layer of graphite epoxy. I think it was Shallow Minded on here that did it if I'm not mistaken

Are you going to be spraying or rolling primer and paint? I'll likely be rolling Alexseal primer within the week so I'll be able to give you some rookie feedback. Then rolling paint with the 5018 additive a few days after (Haven't decided color yet)


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## Indoman (Jul 25, 2013)

Good points on line x etc making repairs harder. I’ll check out the graphite epoxy option. The basalt cloth should make it pretty tough. I’m just concerned that paint will scratch through a lot easier then gelcoat. Probably overthinking it. Battle scars will give it some character. 

I took it down as far as I dared with 60 before switching to 150. The bad pinhole picture is of the worst section. Actually 2 sections about 1’x1’. The rest is evenly scattered.

I plan to roll the primer and paint on. Definnately interested to hear how the Alexseal primer goes on for you.


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## Mike Haydon (Dec 19, 2019)

Line x type products work very well. You can lay down a very fine texture and it actually aids in the water not "sucking" to the bottom surface of the boat. Repairs are simple you just bust it off with 60grit. I would only spray though and you can buy kits where they give you the shutz gun. I use a product from finish masters that is tintable as well so you can do any color. Hope this helps aid in your decision. Thanks, Michael


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## omegadef (Jul 10, 2011)

Any more on how this turned out?


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## Indoman (Jul 25, 2013)

Funny you should ask. After a 4 month kitchen remodel, I just got back on it yesterday. I’ve got a low spot in front of the transom I need to finish up with. (1/16-1/8” about the area of a dinner plate). Will finish that up, sharpen the chines and get the 1st coat of hi build on it in the next few weeks. I’d like to get it flipped by Labor Day. Will post pictures soon.


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## Indoman (Jul 25, 2013)

Battling this. Getting closer...


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## Bigk23surf (May 23, 2020)

That is looking great. You got some skill.


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## Indoman (Jul 25, 2013)

Edges sharpened and 2 coats of hi build primer.


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

Been a little tied up and didn’t catch all the skiff updates but man, she is looking good!🤙🏻


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## Bottlecap (Feb 22, 2020)

Good progress! I’m digging it.


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

Wow Indo! She is SHARP! (see what I did there) What color did you select for topcoat?


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

Looking great! This will be such a cool little skiff.


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## Indoman (Jul 25, 2013)

Alexseal in Kingston Grey, off white or Mint Blue. I flip flop. Will most likely use Durabak smooth for keel guard.


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

I went through the same dilemma. Whatever you decide, you‘ll love it after it’s all said and done! The topcoat was awesome to apply, once you roll it on and spread it out, do NOT go back to the previous section thinking that you are “blending” because the rolling additive has already started working. I found this out after my second coat that where I over worked the paint, it was flatter in shine than where I just rolled and kept moving. I hope that made sense, but if not, PM me


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## Indoman (Jul 25, 2013)

Transom eyelet backing plate question. I’ve layed up 1708 into 5/16” thick blocks to use as backing plates for the transom eyelets. (Transom foam is 1 1/2” thick) I had planned to route out the inside of the transom foam and bond them flush with the surface. Will this work or do I need to cut all the way through the foam so they are bonded directly to the transom glass to keep the eyelets from pulling through? In that case I could double them up so as not to have such a deep hole to glass over. Thoughts?


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## 7665 (Jun 9, 2014)

That’s what I did, made 1/4” blocks of 1708 and they are on the inside of the transom fir my stern eyes and trim tab mounts. Worked fine. I did overdrill the holes and fill with thick epoxy and re drilled to the correct size. 


Indoman said:


> Transom eyelet backing plate question. I’ve layed up 1708 into 5/16” thick blocks to use as backing plates for the transom eyelets. (Transom foam is 1 1/2” thick) I had planned to route out the inside of the transom foam and bond them flush with the surface. Will this work or do I need to cut all the way through the foam so they are bonded directly to the transom glass to keep the eyelets from pulling through? In that case I could double them up so as not to have such a deep hole to glass over. Thoughts?


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## Indoman (Jul 25, 2013)

How much did you over drill the holes by?


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## ElLobo (Sep 14, 2020)

Any updates on this build?


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## Indoman (Jul 25, 2013)

Some progress but not much to see. Finishing up phase 2 of home remodel but should be back on it by mid Dec. Got the rest of my supplies bought so no supply chain issues. Have had no problems getting things from US Composites (highly recommend) but rather than take a chance... Oar lock and transom eyelet backing plates recessed and bonded in, drain tube built and inside of hull is shaped, fillets in along with a good coat of epoxy.


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## Indoman (Jul 25, 2013)

F


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## Mike Haydon (Dec 19, 2019)

How did you make your drain tubes? I was thinking about buying the brass ones but then you have to buy the flairing tool.


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## Indoman (Jul 25, 2013)

I used 3/4” pvc with 2 layers of painters tape and one layer of wax paper, coated with paste wax. 18” x4” piece off 10oz eglass. Wet it out and wrap it as tight as possible. Wants to slip and unwind on the first couple of wraps. 18” piece of glass ends up with about 5 layers. Took me 3 tries to get the right diameter.


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## Mike Haydon (Dec 19, 2019)

Indoman said:


> I used 3/4” pvc with 2 layers of painters tape and one layer of wax paper, coated with paste wax. 18” x4” piece off 10oz eglass. Wet it out and wrap it as tight as possible. Wants to slip and unwind on the first couple of wraps. 18” piece of glass ends up with about 5 layers. Took me 3 tries to get the right diameter.


Thank you so much. That's what I am worried about, getting the size right but I need at least three for my build as of now. Thanks, Michael


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## Indoman (Jul 25, 2013)

Also, you may get a small ridge on the inside from wax paper “seam”. I plan to just hit it lightly with some 220. I used small pieces of Scotch tape to hold the wax paper together.


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## Mike Haydon (Dec 19, 2019)

Ok. Do you not think just the mold release wax. Maybe 3 coats left on not polished off would work?


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## Indoman (Jul 25, 2013)

I think mold release wax would work fine. Definitely don’t buff it off. Apply a generous coat and let dry. I did 2 coats to make sure I had it completely covered.


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## omegadef (Jul 10, 2011)

FYI, I cheated and purchased the tubes premade. Wasn't expensive enough to warrant the fiddling and time. 



https://mgs4u.com/telescoping-fiberglass-tube-and-rod-price-list-2/




Build looks great btw.


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## Mike Haydon (Dec 19, 2019)

omegadef said:


> FYI, I cheated and purchased the tubes premade. Wasn't expensive enough to warrant the fiddling and time.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Great resource. Thanks


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## Indoman (Jul 25, 2013)

Got the transom notched. Will glass it later this week.


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## Indoman (Jul 25, 2013)

Finished glassing the inside. Basically 3 layers of glass with the floor a 4th layer of BC. Started mock up of the gunnel cap which will be notched thin wall PVC. A bit resin heavy here and there.


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

Glad to see this moving along! Looking forward to the next round of updates.


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## Morel (12 mo ago)

Great looking skiff Indoman, your build got me to start an account here on Microskiff. I'd like to start a turbot 16B build this year, and have been trying to figure out raw materials and what I need to order. Do you have a guesstimate on how many sheets of foam/yards of cloth/gallons of resin you have used? 

John


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## Indoman (Jul 25, 2013)

Thx John. 5 sheets of foam core, 75 yds of cloth (4 layers inside and out) and will end up using about 8 gallons of resin. 50 yds of 8” 8oz e glass tape, 2.5 qt cabosil, 5 gal glass bubbles and 2.5 qts milled fiber. YMMV on the bubbles/cabosil/milled fiber.


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## Indoman (Jul 25, 2013)

One side of pvc is on. Fairing and 2 layers of glass tape is next.


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Excellent. We had a jon boat growing up that we did rub rail out of the black poly pipe. It worked nicely.


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## The Fin (Sep 28, 2021)

Indoman said:


> Inspired to start this after watching Travis’s CF build. Travis, James / JC Designs, CM and several others on MS have all been a huge help. James has made himself available for several phone calls and Chris quickly answers my emails with feedback and advice. Thanks to all!
> 
> Started last April. No rush whatsoever. The journey is half the fun. About 200hrs of actual labor so far with about 3x that much time spent just staring at it with an adult beverage in hand. Completely overanalyzing every aspect of the build. Great mental exercise.
> 
> ...


Great build! I’m glad that there were so many fellow members with the expertise and willingness to help out!👍


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## Morel (12 mo ago)

Indoman, any new progress? I bought plans and have them printed, still a ways behind you!


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## Indoman (Jul 25, 2013)

Wasn’t happy with how the pvc gunnel caps turned out so I stepped away for a while to regroup. Have cut them off and will clean up a few things before trying again in a few weeks.


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## Indoman (Jul 25, 2013)

Layed up my rear deck piece - 3 layers 10oz glass on the top, 1 layer 1708 and 1 layer 10oz e glass on the bottom. Largest unsupported span will be approx 14”x 28”. I plan to use the same schedule on the front deck. Largest unsupported area there will be 16-18” x 36”. I think this will be ok but would like a second opinion. Thx


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## Chris Morejohn (May 12, 2014)

Indoman said:


> Layed up my rear deck piece - 3 layers 10oz glass on the top, 1 layer 1708 and 1 layer 10oz e glass on the bottom. Largest unsupported span will be approx 14”x 28”. I plan to use the same schedule on the front deck. Largest unsupported area there will be 16-18” x 36”. I think this will be ok but would like a second opinion. Thx


On all my small skiffs and dinghies like the one I have now I built 10 years ago and have used continuously I just use 1 layer of 10 Oz cloth on the 1/2” core sheet top and bottom. I tab in all my interior bulkheads, seats, cleats etc. using 4” wide 1-1/2 Oz. Matt. 2 layers. This gives a 2” lap on the hull and the part.
To get smooth edges you can pull out stranded from the sides and when rolling mount it will not leave a hard edge. Do this only if you are not going to fair your interior out.
I have never seen a failure with this method. The spans are too short. More material means more weight in a skiff you want to drag up beaches on your own.
I regularly lay 75 lb.anchors and chain in the skiff and have only 2 dents from this when I a hurry in big seas and wind when laying out an eaxtra anchor.


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

A lot of us have used Carbon Core , either the PVC or PE. Myself and others have done the ole "squeeze it as hard as you can" test and it seems that Divinycell is much harder to compress. Hence, some of use have used more glass. Admittedly, I have used too much glass on my Conchfish build, especially on vertical surfaces and on the bottoms of the cap and floor. Oh well, my skiff will still come in at a respectable weight and hopefully be able to take years of pounding.


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## Indoman (Jul 25, 2013)

Thanks Chris. No doubt I’ve over built it a bit. Initial goal was under 125# but will probably end up closer to 140#. Still fairly light. If there’s a Turbot 2.0 for me, little doubt I could keep it under 125#.


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## Indoman (Jul 25, 2013)




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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

Congrats!! This little skiff is so cool.


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## Indoman (Jul 25, 2013)

Hull by itself floated in 1.5”, a bit more than 5” with me and 125# inside. (To simulate the weight of yami 9.9, yet to be glassed in bulkhead/deck materials and paint). I was hoping for 4” but oh well. Tippier then I was hoping for but not completely unexpected.


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## Chris Morejohn (May 12, 2014)

Indoman said:


> Hull by itself floated in 1.5”, a bit more than 5” with me and 125# inside. (To simulate the weight of yami 9.9, yet to be glassed in bulkhead/deck materials and paint). I was hoping for 4” but oh well. Tippier then I was hoping for but not completely unexpected.


Looks great. It will be stiffer once you put the engine on the stern. Pretty much any 12’ hull empty will be jumpy unless you are sitting down or in a Jon boat. Draft is what I expect. The only way to get shallower is to stretch her out to her original design length to-get the volume.
Congratulations on being the first sawed off Turbot skiff launched.
There’s a couple being built in Europe at your length should be done soon too for sailboat tenders.
Well done


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## Indoman (Jul 25, 2013)

Thx Chris! Sent you a PM


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## Mike Haydon (Dec 19, 2019)

Looks awesome man! Beautiful pool too


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## Indoman (Jul 25, 2013)

Thx. I think the boats are less of a money pit than the pool.


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

Indoman said:


> Thx. I think the boats are less of a money pit than the pool.


So pools are like boats, the best pool is someone else’s 😂 What’s the plan for the interior? Benches?


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## Indoman (Jul 25, 2013)

Front deck 36”, rear deck will be about 32” x 45” with the corner boxes being glassed in as air chambers. Same (air chamber) under the forward 18” of the front deck. May simplify front bulkhead set up…. Waffling daily.


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

Really looking good. Since Chris mentioned weight on the stern being a consideration, you might want to make sure you include provisions in case you ever decide to move the fuel forward.


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## Backcountry 16 (Mar 15, 2016)

I would personally move the fuel forward either way just food for thought it looks awesome I'd love to try a home build but time wouldn't allow that.


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## Mike Haydon (Dec 19, 2019)

That's a lot of space as air chambers. I would shorten them up and if worried about flotation use pour foam. Look at the south Dade, they have smaller side boxes. Leaves for more storage.


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## Indoman (Jul 25, 2013)

Not that worried about flotation I just didn’t want to complicate the build by adding hatches / gutters etc. air chambers is just the result / added benefit of boxing in the area under the rear deck. I’ve got all the pieces rough cut and shortened the rear boxes to about 30” and 1” shorter. The rear deck was gonna be too high. Lowering the center of gravity a bit can’t hurt. Re did the front deck bulkhead pieces. 

Valid points about fuel up front but I decided long ago to just go old school pony tank in the bilge.


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## Chris Morejohn (May 12, 2014)

I always tied my fuel tank to the aft edge of the forward bulkhead. Better yet having it under the fore deck. You will not want it where you have it. Will be in the way of getting at the stern plug to bail her out when running or to scoop out water with a Clorox bailer.
Use a bolt on trim fin attached to your outboards cavitation plate as your lifting trim plate.


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## Mike Haydon (Dec 19, 2019)

I like the design alot. Since you arent using the boxes as air chambers then you could always buy som premade hatches that just screw down. Would be a lot of nice dry storage. Just food for thought.


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## Indoman (Jul 25, 2013)

Will be using them as air chambers. After climbing around on it in the pool I think keeping to my original plans makes the most sense. Run it like a solo skiff with the ability to fish 2 in a pinch. Also decided to go with a 6hp Yamaha after discussion with Nathan. I’m confident it should plane with just me and run 15-16mph??


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## Gatorbig (Jan 15, 2021)

I have a 6hp zuke on an American eagle flat back canoe and it needed a trim plate to plane out for me but the turbot has more running surface in the stern so probably won't need one. I think that speed seems right also.


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## Indoman (Jul 25, 2013)

Short of letting the first layer of tabbing cure and then fairing the edge before laying up the second layer, what’s the trick to keep voids from occurring between layers? I’ve made sure both layers are wet but as it cures this happens in spots. The voids seem to be rock hard with no flex I can feel.


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

Personally I wouldn't worry too much about those. Another quick dousing with neat resin (or slightly thickened with milled fibers or silica if needed) should put your mind at ease.

I don't have a lot of experience to back this up, though, so take that answer with a grain of salt. I found that peel ply was really helpful in those types of areas too.


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Agree with Bryson. I had spots like that and just moved on. If you went to the trouble to grind them out and redo , there's no guarantee the fix wouldn't do the same thing.


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## Morel (12 mo ago)

Any updates on this Indoman?


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## Indoman (Jul 25, 2013)

Rear deck and rod holder are glassed in. Front deck is bonded to the bulkheads but not glassed in yet. (Front deck in these pictures is just sitting on the bulkheads, not yet bonded.) Will have the build portion finished and drop her back in the pool in the next few weeks to do some “testing” - draft / stability with 2 adults, how hard is it to climb back in if I fall out, waterline with weight of 2 adults and motor etc etc


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## Mike Haydon (Dec 19, 2019)

So cool. It's looking great boss man!!!


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## boyscout (Aug 17, 2020)

I like it!


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## The Fin (Sep 28, 2021)

Indoman said:


> Wasn’t happy with how the pvc gunnel caps turned out so I stepped away for a while to regroup. Have cut them off and will clean up a few things before trying again in a few weeks.


Sometimes stepping away is the only way to recharge. I “hit the wall” building a Barnegat Bay sneak boat, took a break, and came back with a new found energy!


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## Mike Haydon (Dec 19, 2019)

The Fin said:


> Sometimes stepping away is the only way to recharge. I “hit the wall” building a Barnegat Bay sneak boat, took a break, and came back with a new found energy!


Yes sir. I had to step away from my build. Now I have a new found fire under my a$$ to finish. Lol didnt think summer was gonna creep up on me like it did


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

That reminds me of my first boat, a 12 ft Sears Jon boat. It was about the same layout only s bigger front deck, with basically a huge piece of plywood on it. It did the trick, yours looks much prettier thou. Nice work man


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## Indoman (Jul 25, 2013)

Got the inside finished. 3 coats of Total Boat Wet Edge / whaler blue and medium SoftSand. Very happy with decks / non skid and bulkheads. The sides are ok. I had planned to leave the sides unfinished but chased some hi spots and ended up with a blotchy look. Next time I’ll stick to just knocking down the seams and paint over the weave. Keep it uniform in appearance. The Wet Edge was very easy to work with. Yes it’s a less durable single part paint, but not gonna spend $1600 on paint for what will most likely be a test mule. Still hope to have the outside done (Off white) by Oct / Nov.


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Looking good. Always like Whaler Blue.


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## Mike Haydon (Dec 19, 2019)

Man that thing looks great. I would be proud of that finish. Its gonna do everything you need it to, and you'll be happier without exposed weave later if it gets used and abused like it should. 
Please tell us how you did your non skid application. Thanks, Michael


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## Indoman (Jul 25, 2013)

Taped it off, rolled on a coat of paint, then immediately covered it completely with the SoftSand using the bottle it came in as the shaker. Has holes in the lid like a Parmesan cheese bottle. Let it cure overnight, brushed up the excess (for use on the next section), then rolled on a second coat. Once that cured snd all the particles were “locked in”, I pulled the tape and then applied 3 coats of paint (12-18 hours apart) to the entire inside of the hull. I followed the advice posted about using the green 3m automotive tape to keep any paint/sand from bleeding thru. Also make going around any subtle curves easier. Add blue painters tape as back up. I used a pill bottle to mark/cut the corners.


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## Mike Haydon (Dec 19, 2019)

Thanks for telling us how you did it. The end result looks great. The whole build is very impressive sir.👍


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## Indoman (Jul 25, 2013)

Thanks!


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## Mike Haydon (Dec 19, 2019)

Also I hate to beat a dead horse but you might look into some premade hatch covers for the rear boxes. Would be great storage. And as you call them air chambers that's only gonna help if the boat was sunk. Air chambers dont increase flotation like a larger area does. It will only help in a capsized situation, same as bouyancy foam.


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## Indoman (Jul 25, 2013)

You are absolutely correct. …but no hatches for me. 😊.


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## Indoman (Jul 25, 2013)

You can see in this picture just how small this skiff is built to 12’. I’m 5’9” / 165#. Hatches would only complicate things. I’ve essentially built something comparable to a Skanu / Solo skiff. (Which was my intention) I’m almost certain I’ll build another and add 8-10” of beam and 1’ in length to make it less tippy. I plan to just recut the forms adding 4-5” to accomplish this.


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## Indoman (Jul 25, 2013)




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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

I like the drain plug tether. I might borrow that idea.


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## Indoman (Jul 25, 2013)

Yep. One less thing to hafta worry about. Lol.


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

Chris Morejohn said:


> On all my small skiffs and dinghies like the one I have now I built 10 years ago and have used continuously I just use 1 layer of 10 Oz cloth on the 1/2” core sheet top and bottom. I tab in all my interior bulkheads, seats, cleats etc. using 4” wide 1-1/2 Oz. Matt. 2 layers. This gives a 2” lap on the hull and the part.
> To get smooth edges you can pull out stranded from the sides and when rolling mount it will not leave a hard edge. Do this only if you are not going to fair your interior out.
> I have never seen a failure with this method. The spans are too short. More material means more weight in a skiff you want to drag up beaches on your own.
> I regularly lay 75 lb.anchors and chain in the skiff and have only 2 dents from this when I a hurry in big seas and wind when laying out an eaxtra anchor.
> View attachment 200951


Chris, is this the same boat? I'm assuming, your design?


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## Chris Morejohn (May 12, 2014)

Backwater said:


> Chris, is this the same boat? I'm assuming, your design?


It’s my Turbot 18’ design shortened to 12’. Another 12’ version was just launched in Curacao in the Dutch West Indies. They are using it as a yacht tender for their catamaran. They sent a video of it running way faster than a previous version I built 29 years ago some of my sailing friends now use. He says he is happy with it but would like to build another slightly wider. He’s running a 15 hp 2 stroke. Here’s my latest version for people that want short skiffs…


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## Indoman (Jul 25, 2013)

Done with the bottom paint. Looks pretty decent for rolling it on in my garage. Will let it cure for a couple weekends then flip over and paint the top of the gunnels. Hardware installed and ready to wet test the weekend after Thanksgiving.


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## Backcountry 16 (Mar 15, 2016)

Nice paint job for rolling it on looks professional to me


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## Gatorbig (Jan 15, 2021)

Definitely! Great job 👏 👍


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## Chris Morejohn (May 12, 2014)

Fantastic job. 
just received word from the other 12’ Turbot builder in Curaçao. He sees wide open speed continued at 26.480 mph with a Yahmaha 15 2 stroke with one person, fuel tank, using a 9x9x 1/4 prop , says it planes easily with 3-4 people aboard. 
this skiff build is being used to replace his hard bottomed inflatable on their catamaran.


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## Morel (12 mo ago)

Good Afternoon, 

Any update on this?


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## Goldmine (Aug 29, 2017)

How tall are the sides? How much freeboard do you have showing when drafting? Have you run it yet?


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## Indoman (Jul 25, 2013)

Haven’t run it yet. Finishing the trailer and hope to run it in the lake with the TM the next weekend or two. No outboard til March / April.


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## Gatorbig (Jan 15, 2021)

Beautiful work man! I know you are proud. Would be killing me to wait.


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

Man that’s gotta be killing you, I’d let you borrow my old 2 stroke 25hp just to run it, if you were my neighbor.

she looks great thou bud, nice work


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## Gatorbig (Jan 15, 2021)

Same! Someone close do him a solid for a weekend!!!


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## Indoman (Jul 25, 2013)

I’m ok with having to wait on the outboard. Weather turns crappy about now until late Feb, so I don’t do much fishing. Then throw in the holidays, other projects and commitments and the time will fly by. 

I bought some 16 gauge 5052 aluminum to make a transome cap with. I don’t have a metal break so I’ve gotta get creative. Easy in theory, but tougher to pull off cleanly. Ordered 2 pieces so I have one to boff up while trying.

I’ll post pictures with the TM when I get it on the water...


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

True, I got ya. Well she looks awesome bud


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## Indoman (Jul 25, 2013)




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