# Tohatsu MSF 40 200 Hours



## Fairweather (Aug 17, 2020)

So I can't seem to get a date this decade when my local authorized dealer can get my motor in for 200 hour routine maintenance. Now I'm presented with an emergency fishing opportunity in south Florida in January, so I better do it myself.  The only reason I was going to have the dealer do it anyway was to be sure there would be no warranty contention in the future, but I'm not too worried about that. So anyway, here's what I think I need to do: 


Change engine oil
Change engine filter
Change lower unit lube
Change impeller
Change fuel filter
Change fuel/water separator
Lube all grease fittings

Am I missing anything?


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## Gregorya24 (Oct 1, 2020)

Spark plugs


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## TheAdamsProject (Oct 29, 2007)

I always did mine on my MFS50, you will be glad you did it yourself. Save some money and you get to know your motor. Helps if things arise in the future.


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## Marsh Pirate (Sep 15, 2016)

Just take your time and enjoy it.


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## Fairweather (Aug 17, 2020)

Thanks for all of the advice from everyone. While I'm at it, I would like to replace the lower steering arm shown in the picture. At least I think that's the term for it. It is the lower straight rod. The arm was pitted when I got the motor, and the seal leaks. (As you would expect.) I have kept it well lubricated, but I would like to fix it in the off season. Does anyone know of a part number for the arm and seal, and a source? TIA!


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## GullsGoneWild (Dec 16, 2014)

Check your starter...... Mine went out a few weeks ago and left me stranded while pre fishing the feather flicker tourney. My dealer stated that Tohatsu said it was a known bad part number but would not warranty it since it was out of the "bulletin window".


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## Fairweather (Aug 17, 2020)

I thought I would reply to this again and explain what I ended up doing in case it would help someone else out. 

Change engine oil
Change engine oil filter
Change lower unit lube
Change impeller
Change water pump liner
Change water pump guide plate
Change fuel/water separator
Change plugs
Change thermostat
Change anodes
Lube all grease fittings
Tohatsu has a part number 3KY-87500-0 which contains everything needed except lubricants, the fuel/water separator, and thermostat, but it's no longer available, at least not in the U.S. A huge shout out to Scott Shepherd at OutboardDirect.com. (I have nothing to do with them, other than being a customer.) Scott figured out the part numbers that would be included in the kit and created a single SKU that could be ordered from their web site. I would post the SKU here, except I think if you want to use it, you should check with Scott to be sure everything is still valid and available. Here is a list of all of the part numbers I ordered:


Orig Part #Orig DescriptionQty Needed332-60006-1*GASKET 8.1-15-12332-65022-0*KEY 20-4.6-213B7-60218-1*ANODE13KY-60218-0*ANODE23P0-60218-0*ANODE33BJ-07615-0*OIL FILTER13C8-65021-2*WATER PUMP IMPELLER13C8-65025-0*WATER PUMP GUIDE PLATE13C8-65029-3*GUIDE PLATE GASKET13KY-01032-0*THERMOSTAT CAP GASKET13R3-07406-0*WASHER 14.5-24-113T5-10046-0*O-RING 1.9-1333T5-65011-0*PUMP CASE LINER13T5-65018-2*PUMP CASE GASKET1951503-0325*SPLIT PIN 3-2519701-1-1121*SPARK PLUG (IKR6G8)33KY-01030-1THERMOSTAT13Y9-902234-0FUEL/WATER SEPARATOR1332-82308-04 CYCLE OIL3332-82310-0GEAR LUBE1
 
Everything up to the thermostat (but not including it) was included in the original maintenance kit part number.

By the way, I think all of this applies to the MFS50 as well, but you ought to double check with somebody who knows more than I do.

As for the doing the work, it was pretty straightforward. I can mention a couple of things that might save you a little time if you're doing the job for the first time. There are five bolts holding on the lower unit. Four are obvious. The fifth is under the zinc trim tab. You need to remove it to get access to the bolt. I think this one ought to be removed first so as not to stress the casting at its narrowest point. After removing the five bolts, the lower unit will drop with a little pushing and pulling. 

The anodes are a little bit of an Easter egg hunt, but you can probably find them. There are three in the engine block under a bolt/washer retainer. That's what the o-rings are for. There are two on the port side of the engine and one on the starboard. I really didn't need to replace any of the anodes because they showed very little decay, but I did it anyway since I ordered them.

@Marsh Pirate had good advice: Take your time and enjoy it. It will go faster for me the next time.


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## devrep (Feb 22, 2009)

to replace that lower arm I believe you have to replace the steering cable all the way back to the steering wheel. not that big a deal.


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## Fairweather (Aug 17, 2020)

devrep said:


> to replace that lower arm I believe you have to replace the steering cable all the way back to the steering wheel. not that big a deal.


You don't have to disconnect the steering cable, but you jogged my memory about something I forgot to mention. You do have to disconnect the shift rod. You can access it at the top of the lower unit, between the lower unit and the transom. You can loosen the locking nut and then unscrew the top and bottom sections of the rod. It wouldn't hurt to mark its position so you can get it back in the same place. If you find yourself staring at it wondering how to access the locking nut (ask me how I know) just shift it out of neutral and into forward.


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## Fairweather (Aug 17, 2020)

devrep said:


> to replace that lower arm I believe you have to replace the steering cable all the way back to the steering wheel. not that big a deal.


I misread that the first time as I was fixated on removing the lower unit. Sorry about that. Yes, that lower arm is part of the steering cable as you mentioned. I ended up cleaning it up and it wasn't in as bad shape as I thought, and I put in an o-ring in the cap. That may hold it.


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## Waterlog (May 12, 2020)

Fairweather said:


> I thought I would reply to this again and explain what I ended up doing in case it would help someone else out.
> 
> Change engine oil
> Change engine oil filter
> ...


Useful!


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