# 89 16' El Pecador rebuild



## ET101 (Sep 10, 2020)

The fun has begun! Last week me and a friend fabbed up some classy redneckery and made some sponsons to test on my hull. These were made of plywood and 2x4. Nothing special, mainly to just prove theory and to test for any ill effects. After installing and testing a day on the water, I would have to say that they were a major success! Adding the sponsons raised the back of the boat by at least 1.5" and greatly reduced squat on hole shot making it get on plane a lot faster. I was unable to dip the back corner by standing there like I was previously able to. An added bonus was an increase in straight line stability in the canals at no wake speed. Before, I was constantly turning left and right like I was drunk.








Since the sponson test turned out to be a great success, I decided to go ahead and strip the boat today. I got the outboard and console removed and removed most of the floor. Had to stop near the transom till I got the outboard off completely, I was afraid the transom would rip off entirely if I didn't. Most of the floor, all of the transom and stringers were rotten.
























































My plan of attack is to remove all rotten wood then fix some cracks I found that go through the hull.
After I fix the hull, I was thinking I would pop a mold of the back of the boat and slide it back to make the outside mold for the sponsons. I was thinking the best thing to do would be to cut all but the center 24 inches off the transom and install melamine or something similar for the inner wall sponson mold. My plan for the transom is to double up 3/4 coosa for the center 24" and a single layer of 3/4 coosa for the inner wall of the sponson, running the length forward to the rear bulkhead. Does this sound strong enough? Also, what layup schedule would you guys recommend for the sponsons? I was planning on using 1708 and polyester due to costs unless you guys see something wrong with that.
I will have more questions in the future but a greatly appreciate any and all advice given. Thanks for looking!


----------



## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Very nice! Looking forward to this.


----------



## ET101 (Sep 10, 2020)

I got the rest of the floor out today along with stringers and transom. Holy cow! Whoever did this work before I got to it really should not work on boats... so much resin and great stuff used to fill gaps around the floor.
































Do you think 3" tall stringers would be strong enough? I'd like to drop the cockpit floor down so I can use the rear deck as a bench. Just unsure if 3 inch stringers would be strong enough. Construction would likely be 3/4 pvc board or doubled up 1/2 green board. The sides of the cockpit floor would be bonded and tabbed directly to the bottom of the hull on the sides while making a gutter around the perimeter of the cockpit floor. Advice is greatly appreciated.


----------



## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

Cool Hull man, I don’t see why 3” wouldn’t be big enough stringers.


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

GoGataGo52__20 said:


> Cool Hull man, I don’t see why 3” wouldn’t be big enough stringers.


It was made to be self bailing and I would keep it as such. Cool rebuild. You didn't see many of the 16 footers


----------



## ET101 (Sep 10, 2020)

I thought about keeping it self bailing but since there isn't much room in the boat I think it would be best to drop the floor to turn the back deck into a bench seat and build a shorter console for it. There is too little freeboard to do both. I love the boat though... this thing eats up chop like it's not even there. Fished a few weeks ago in mid 20's north wind and was able to run around at full speed and never really felt the bigger chop.


----------



## MudSkipper (Jan 11, 2021)

Very interesting project and a cool boat. I examined your test sponsons and I'm curious to know what all the screws and washers are about? Looks like you shot the sponsons with buckshot and then had to fill all the holes.


----------



## ET101 (Sep 10, 2020)

I did not want them to fall off while running. They were made of just cheap 3/8 ply and 2x4 so that many screws was cheap insurance.


----------



## MudSkipper (Jan 11, 2021)

It seemed to have worked very well for the purpose. Nice job.


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

I'll look through my stuff. I believe I have an original one page brochure for one.


----------



## ET101 (Sep 10, 2020)

That would be awesome! Thank you sublime. I called up there and spoke to the previous owner... he told me they didn't have anything like that anymore.


----------



## texasag07 (Nov 11, 2014)

I think I would either use marine ply or a boat building foam core instead of pvc board. From my reading you would want to use epoxy resin for best adhesion results as polyester resin doesn’t have as strong of a bond with pvc. I have played a little with pvc pipe and poly and it will bond but it isn’t the strongest, roughing up the pvc surface helps a lot. I have also heard that the pvc board will shrink and swell a bit with temperature changes which could cause issues with the boards lamination to the glass skin once cured.

I always liked the looks of this hulls, good luck with the build!


----------



## ET101 (Sep 10, 2020)

MudSkipper said:


> It seemed to have worked very well for the purpose. Nice job.


I was honestly surprised with how well the experiment turned out.


----------



## ET101 (Sep 10, 2020)

texasag07 said:


> I think I would either use marine ply or a boat building foam core instead of pvc board. From my reading you would want to use epoxy resin for best adhesion results as polyester resin doesn’t have as strong of a bond with pvc. I have played a little with pvc pipe and poly and it will bond but it isn’t the strongest, roughing up the pvc surface helps a lot. I have also heard that the pvc board will shrink and swell a bit with temperature changes which could cause issues with the boards lamination to the glass skin once cured.
> 
> I always liked the looks of this hulls, good luck with the build!


You are correct... I miss spoke earlier and meant to say PE board not pvc. Do you think poly will still be fine? I know epoxy is best but that's a bit too rich for my blood.


----------



## ET101 (Sep 10, 2020)

Between a hunting trip and get stranded at the ranch due to the weather, I got back to working on the boat today.








Doesn't seem like much progress but grinding off multiple layers of old fiberglass is time consuming. I've got the starboard side mostly cleaned up and started the port side today. I'll get more grinding done tomorrow. I have already smoked one harbor freight angle grinder.


----------



## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

Lookin good man, I dig the boat.


----------



## ET101 (Sep 10, 2020)

I built a stand for the boat and got it flipped today. Current goal is to sand the back couple of feet so I can make a mold of the back. I did find a decent hook in the hull that is going to have to be fixed, hopefully it shows up in the pictures. I'm open to hearing ideas on fixing it.













































Ordered supplies from restex in Schertz, full roll of 1708 for 307, roll of 1.5 csm for 140, 5 gallons of vinylesterfor 207 a sheet of 3/4 carbon core for 80 plus a few other supplies... best part was, they charged me 20 for shipping. They make deliveries to majek every Monday so I was able to pick it up from their truck at majek.









Got my garage set up and getting ready for fiberglass work. Getting nervous and excited to start with glass work.


----------



## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

ET101 said:


> I built a stand for the boat and got it flipped today. Current goal is to sand the back couple of feet so I can make a mold of the back. I did find a decent hook in the hull that is going to have to be fixed, hopefully it shows up in the pictures. I'm open to hearing ideas on fixing it.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


I’m scared if I try glass work I’d be hooked


----------



## ET101 (Sep 10, 2020)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> I’m scared if I try glass work I’d be hooked


I've done some work previously on old corvettes but those don't have to float. And that was many years ago.


----------



## MudSkipper (Jan 11, 2021)

That boat is just cool. Keep posting your progress.


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Some boats have a hook built into them to keep them from porpoising so bad. With the extensions you are putting in, it shouldn't need it anymore.


----------



## ET101 (Sep 10, 2020)

Sublime said:


> Some boats have a hook built into them to keep them from porpoising so bad. With the extensions you are putting in, it shouldn't need it anymore.


I was thinking it may have been built in except it is uneven from side to side. Port side is far less than starboard side. 
How would you fill this in? I plan on putting a layer of 1708 and vinylester over the bottom... would you just use fairing compound over top to fill in? Or is there a better way without using a lot of fairing compound?


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

That was probably made that way as well to compensate for the torque of the outboard making the boat lean. I would think it would have more on the port side though.


----------



## ET101 (Sep 10, 2020)

Got the mold laid up today... we will see if it comes off in the morning lol. It doesn't look pretty but that's 4 layers of .75 csm and over 2.5 gallons of vinylester.


----------



## ET101 (Sep 10, 2020)

I got impatient and popped the mold off this evening while my son was outside playing on his scooter. Came off without incident and it will be plenty ridged enough to use as a mold for the sponsons. Ive got a little bit of fairing to do to make it nice and smooth on the inside but I'm happy with the results this far.


----------



## ET101 (Sep 10, 2020)

Progress has been made. I cut the transom yesterday and became rather committed.








Fit the mold.
















Placed melamine to form the inside of the sponsons and started laying glass.
















Two layers of 1708 over the bulk of it with more in all of the corners. I was able to round my outside bottom corners which I like a lot.
























I fixed a couple of bubbles in the lay up this morning then popped the mold off rather uneventfuly. I am extremely happy with the end result. It still needs a fair amount of fairing and blending but all in all... very pleased with the outcome.


----------



## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Nice work! That’s a great tunnel design too.


----------



## ET101 (Sep 10, 2020)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Nice work! That’s a great tunnel design too.


Thank you... I was rather nervous once I cut the transom. I'm glad it turned out as good as it did. The little pocket tunnel on this thing is awesome... ive ran a lot shallower than I thought I could because of it.


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

I'll confess. In the beginning I wasn't sure where this was going, but you're doing a great job. Can't wait to see the end product.


----------



## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

Going to be very cool -- thanks for sharing. Look forward to following along.


----------



## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

ET101 said:


> Thank you... I was rather nervous once I cut the transom. I'm glad it turned out as good as it did. The little pocket tunnel on this thing is awesome... ive ran a lot shallower than I thought I could because of it.


Don’t underestimate the effectiveness of those shallower tunnels. Better than the deeper, narrower ones for sure.


----------



## MudSkipper (Jan 11, 2021)

Very nice. You will have a unique, cool, rig at end of this. How wide is your tunnel at the bottom?


----------



## ET101 (Sep 10, 2020)

MudSkipper said:


> Very nice. You will have a unique, cool, rig at end of this. How wide is your tunnel at the bottom?


21 across the bottom, 17 across the top, 3 high and 22 long


----------



## ET101 (Sep 10, 2020)

I added more glass and radius to the transom a couple of days ago.








Reinforced areas of the hull that were cracked previously at the stringers, will finish repairing that area when I flip it again.








And added rear bulkhead today.
















If the rain holds off tomorrow, I hope to get the transom and back sponson supports installed. I will be putting 3/4 coosa doubled up for transom, single layer at back of sponsons and long "stringer" trying rear of sponsons to transom and rear bulkhead.


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Looking great. Good plan on doubling the coosa. Put a layer of thickened epoxy and glass between the two pieces.


----------



## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

Man that is looking sweet! Sick so sick man!


----------



## ET101 (Sep 10, 2020)

Sublime said:


> Looking great. Good plan on doubling the coosa. Put a layer of thickened epoxy and glass between the two pieces.


Do you think I should use 1708 or would 1.5 csm be enough?


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

All I had was 10oz when I did it. I would think csm would be fine.


----------



## ET101 (Sep 10, 2020)

Doubled up coosa for transom is in... I will lay other pieces tomorrow. Took a while for the wet weather to calm down this morning.


----------



## ET101 (Sep 10, 2020)

Well... got the back of the sponsons supported with one layer of 3/4 coosa, thickened resin and 1708. Put the rear stringers in same method the other day. They are tabbed into the rear of the sponsons, thickened resin to the side of the sponsons, tabbed to transom, hull and rear bulkhead. There is almost no twist now.








































Fitted rigging tubes and got the rear tube glassed in today. Just need to do the front tube and make from bulkhead. Then it's stringers and a test float to see where my water line is going to be. Getting excited as it's starting to look functional again.


----------



## Gatorbig (Jan 15, 2021)

Looking sweet!


----------



## ET101 (Sep 10, 2020)

Didn't have a chance to add this in the earlier post. I have decided to keep the rear as 3 large compartments. I was originally going to make the middle section a live well and motor well but after all of the fiberglass and support I have put in the back of this thing, I decided that I want to keep everything in the back as light as possible. It's not overly heavy but after all of the various tabs I have put in and coosa, I have increased the weight a little more than I was initially planning on. It's not heavy in the back by any means, just don't want to cancel all of the benefit of adding sponsons.

I was hoping to have it flipped this week and work on the bottom but that was a bit over zealous.

The rigging tube sizes are a single 1.25 going from bow to stern for dedicated fuel line only. I will have a 3 inch from bow to console... I little oversized but it takes up more room in the keel. I have 1, 3 inch from console to stern for all wiring and rigging between the two. The third going to stern is 2 inch for livewell plumbing.
I am planning on 2 or 3 bilge pumps, one in each sponson that the floor will drain to. Contemplating one above tunnel for emergency use. I will cut a drain hole in back of center compartment to each sponson to drain center compartment. If I take on enough water, a third bilge pump on transom I think will be cheap insurance. All bilge pumps will get their own dedicated thru hull at 1 1/8. Still have to decide on thru hull for live well plumbing. I am thinking a 3/4 for intake and 1 for drain... planning on simple gravity drain below water line.

If any of this doesn't seem like a good idea, please let me know... im about to order pretty much the rest of what I need to finish including paint in the near future.


----------



## rvd (Jun 18, 2018)

Looking good, always liked the 16 Pescador and you definitely have some skillz!


----------



## ET101 (Sep 10, 2020)

I really feel like I'm making progress now... got the front bulkhead installed and glassed inntodsy along with console water drain tubes underneath it. Partly to take up space under bulkhead and partly to make sure water has a place to go if it gets in the console. Hopefully I can get the crossmembers in tomorrow and everything glassed up. My goal is to get the floor put in this week.


----------



## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Looking great!!!


----------



## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

Lookin good now man


----------



## ET101 (Sep 10, 2020)

My week goal was partially achieved. I was able to get crossmemebers installed and floor made but not installed yet. I had to work on a couple boats in the middle of the week which slowed my progress but I'm still happy. Had my son and the Mrs sign their names under the floor too.


----------



## ET101 (Sep 10, 2020)

Well I got the floor bonded and glassed in last week so on to the rear deck. Hindsight sure is 20/20. If I would've thought about it, I would've made the rear deck shorter. It ended up being 50" from outside of sponson to front of rear bulkhead... my layup table is 49"... oh well. I decided to do the rear as 2 separate pieces. First up was the rear starboard side. I made the mold with hatch openings and cut the core pieces...too tight. Laid up 1.5 csm and 1 layer of 1708 then laid the core pieces into place... they fit a bit snug but thought it would be ok. After putting the core pieces in I laid another layer of 1708 over everything and let it all cure. Later that day came time for the big moment.... the piece released and came out of the mold uneventfuly. After flipping i saw it... huge air pockets from the core pieces not laying down flat from being too tight. Crap... do I scrap it and start over or... drill and fill with resin... I chose the latter. Though not perfect... it should work hopefully.
On to the second part now with valuable lessons learned. Cut the core pieces 1/2 under to make sure they lay flat. The mold is made and core pieces are cut. Corners are clayed... cutting fiberglass in the morning, waxing and slinging resin.... and hope for the best!


----------



## ET101 (Sep 10, 2020)

Wow... I haven't updated in a while... photo dump coming soon


----------



## ET101 (Sep 10, 2020)

Made the other side of the rear deck mold








After making the other side of the rear deck, joining on the ground to check how close I got the two.








Joining the two parts together... made it so that the seam is over a rear stringers.








Made the fuel tank shelf








Found a somewhat major mistake I made... when fitting the rear deck...the rear bulkhead wasn't straight when I glassed it in. Separated it at the hull side and used ratchet straps to pull it into place rebonded, and reglassed into a close enough position.








Repositioning the gunnel cap from inside the boat to outside to create a spray edge/rolled gunnel kinda thing.
















New shade... I was getting roasted working in the south Texas sun








Painting the inside of my hatch areas with total bilge before bonding rear deck.








Fitting rear deck before bonding it to hull.


----------



## ET101 (Sep 10, 2020)

Bonding and glassing rear deck.








Flipped the boat rather uneventfuly... it helps to have nine people help. Removing gel coat to fix some things with the hull.








Adding a layer of glass to support the bottom side... it had a fair amount of flex... none now.








Glassing in the gunnel cap.








Adding a layer of 1708 on the keel for extra abrasion resistance. 








Trying to decide if I wanted tonadd two strakes or just one.








I decided one would be plenty for this hull... bonding them down here. 








Glassed down and starting to fair.








More fairing


----------



## ET101 (Sep 10, 2020)

Got It primered yesterday in awlgrip 545 and painted today in awlcraft pigeon blue... big relief to be at this point. The boat will bake for a week while I go to Florida for a family visit. When I get back I will flip and finish the topside.


----------



## Redlig (Feb 27, 2017)

I think it's badass


----------



## MudSkipper (Jan 11, 2021)

I loved what you said after working your transom fix. "Close enough". 👍


----------



## ET101 (Sep 10, 2020)

MudSkipper said:


> I loved what you said after working your transom fix. "Close enough". 👍


Ha! I was surprised how much force it took to flex that glassed 3/4 inch foam into place. Those ratchet straps were guitar string tight. 
If there is one thing that I have learned from this rebuild its that the only straight lines on this boat were ones I drew or installed on it. That and fairing compound can cover a good amount of oops.


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Man, it is looking really good !


----------



## bob_esper (Jun 3, 2021)

That's awesome. Makes me want to tackle a fiberglass boat overhaul. . . albeit maybe not nearly one as involved lol.


----------



## MudSkipper (Jan 11, 2021)

bob_esper said:


> That's awesome. Makes me want to tackle a fiberglass boat overhaul. . . albeit maybe not nearly one as involved lol.


I hear that about wanting to tackle one of those projects. It will have to wait until I retire. I have plenty of regular stuff that needs to get done and I don't want to interrupt any hunting or fishing. Hopefully, I only have about 3 years to go.


----------



## fishnpreacher (Jul 28, 2018)

MudSkipper said:


> I hear that about wanting to tackle one of those projects. It will have to wait until I retire. I have plenty of regular stuff that needs to get done and I don't want to interrupt any hunting or fishing. Hopefully, I only have about 3 years to go.


I retired at the end of 2018, one of the best decisions I ever made. I was 62, so not quite Medicare eligible, but still paid off in the long run.


----------



## Troutale87 (Jan 17, 2012)

Looking good!


----------



## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

Sweet


----------



## JDRProductions (Apr 9, 2017)

ET101 said:


> The fun has begun! Last week me and a friend fabbed up some classy redneckery and made some sponsons to test on my hull. These were made of plywood and 2x4. Nothing special, mainly to just prove theory and to test for any ill effects. After installing and testing a day on the water, I would have to say that they were a major success! Adding the sponsons raised the back of the boat by at least 1.5" and greatly reduced squat on hole shot making it get on plane a lot faster. I was unable to dip the back corner by standing there like I was previously able to. An added bonus was an increase in straight line stability in the canals at no wake speed. Before, I was constantly turning left and right like I was drunk.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


Badass!


----------



## ET101 (Sep 10, 2020)

Where to begin. After spraying the boat we went to Florida for a week long family vacation. After getting back, I tried to sand out a couple of sags I had and hit primer pretty quick so what else to do but block the boat one more time and respray.
































I was able to score the trailer this boat used to be on from my buddy that used to own the boat. Replaced the bunk carpet and adjusted.
















After letting the paint cure for a week or two, I called a handful of friends and got some beer for a boat flipping party. Everything went smooth and it is rested happily on the trailer.








Got to work on the topside making the anchor locker bulkhead and anchor holding tube. Painted the inside with total bilge. Cut the hatch out of the cap and installed strips of thick glass that I had to the underside for hatch lid supports. After getting everything fitting right, I bonded down the anchor locker cap and glassed it in place.
























Decided to install a battery tray against the anchor locker bulkhead after setting the anchor hatch there and realizing that it fit perfectly. Afterwards I laid up a full sheet of core and cut the hatch opening big enough to be able to get the tank in and out while taking the gutters into account.

Made the gutter mold for the front deck and glassed everything in. Used the gutter mold for the front hatch as a template to make the front hatch itself. Came out pretty good and everything fits together pretty good. Still have some glass work to.do to the front deck including adding some "stringers" to the underside to help with flex and rod tube supports as well before I glass the front deck in place.

Got to work on the center console Friday by trying my hand at vacuum bagging the 4x8 core board... it didn't work out so well. I couldn't find all the leaks and the bag wouldn't go into enough of a vacuum to pull resin in the opposite side. Oh well... laid up the rest like normal. Cut out some of the console pieces last night and finished it up today. Waiting for the peanut butter to kick off right now before I start sanding and shaping corners.

Trying to get as much done now before I start work at fibertex Monday morning.


----------



## ET101 (Sep 10, 2020)

More pictures here since I can only upload 10 per post.


----------



## ET101 (Sep 10, 2020)

Console building pictures

















































*







*


----------



## Troutale87 (Jan 17, 2012)

Great work!


----------



## kiet_kat (Jul 26, 2021)

Need updates please


----------



## redzone1 (Dec 22, 2021)

Very cool project


----------



## ET101 (Sep 10, 2020)

kiet_kat said:


> Need updates please


I have been busy and forgot to update this. Pictures may be out of order but I have gotten more done to the boat and getting closer to painting the topside. I have glassed the console in place. Then added more support for the front deck along with lifting the back of the front deck up another inch to make it flush with the gunnels to make a cleaner transition to the gunnel caps. Rod tubes are installed and got the front hatch painted with total bilge and bonded the front deck down. I don't have pictures of the two rear hatches I made this past weekend. I still have to glass the front deck in completely, glass the gunnel caps on, make one more hatch and just a little bit of glass work. After that, it's time to take it to work to fair it out and paint with non skid.... getting closer!


----------



## ET101 (Sep 10, 2020)

I did a float test today and am very happy with the results. I placed two coolers on it to simulate motor and fuel weight 300 lbs in the back and 150lbs in the front for fuel and battery. I had some friends get in it too to add about 700lbs to see how it handles some weight... very pleased with the results
Bare hull no added weight








Fuel and motor weight plus my son








About 700lbs added front and rear shots
















And a before surgery reference


----------



## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Looking good!


----------



## ET101 (Sep 10, 2020)

Long time, no see. Since last post I have painted the top side and started rigging. Here's a few pics so far


----------



## ET101 (Sep 10, 2020)

The site isn't letting me upload any pictures right now. I'll try again tomorrow.


----------

