# Peenoe/Gheenoe Oar help request.



## River (Sep 28, 2008)

On my k1511 Peenoe - Mounted oar locks just in front of the center storage area (aka livewell that isnt set up as livewell) I'm hoping this is a good place though I can later add some other locations.... thoughts on placement?

*Biggest question is I plan on using expandable aluminum oars - what are the pros and cons of curved blades versus straight?


----------



## flyfshrmn82 (Oct 12, 2007)

Curved oars will give you more speed, but they will work you a little more and usually take a little more experience to work correctly. How about a picture of your boat?


----------



## noeettica (Sep 23, 2007)

I am going with a kayak Paddle ...


----------



## River (Sep 28, 2008)

I've tried kayak paddles - don't quite work the way I'd like.
What I'm looking for is 
1) near silence - I have some of the austrailian made plastic enclosed locks with SS conectors 
2) ability to move under manual power no matter where I get stuck (engine failure) I had a kayak paddle with me getting caught under an exceptionally strong outgoing current in a pass when my trolling motor was near dead and outboard was dead - almost was swept out to the gulf despite me being a very fast kayak and canoe paddler able to move kayaks and canoes at a very quick pace even with my 280lbs whale carcass.
3) being able to move quickly out of a flat that is too shallow for even my trolling motor and not wanting to take the time to push with a pole (that I DON'T have.....yet at least)
5) this is important - rowing is good excercise and I plan on using them as an outboard substitute sometimes just for the workout.... I don't do as well with twisting (kayak) as I do with straight back and forth (traditional rowing)
4) Probably more reasons I'll think of later.


----I'll post pix later as well. and I think I've decided to return the flat oars I haven't used yet to get the curved.


----------



## flyfshrmn82 (Oct 12, 2007)

I am set up for one or two to row.  I have straight blades that aren't very efficient, but the move the boat quite nicely...


----------



## River (Sep 28, 2008)

Hey that's awsome!
Could you take some photos of the actual setup (closeups) as I may want to try to duplicate.  Did you have the (stainless/aluminum) rails custom made or are they a generic I could find somewhere?
Mine are right near the rub rail which is possibly going to be a little awkward.   I also found today I didn't mount them in the right place - so I'm going to be moving them.

Also - what's with your rub rail - might be photo perspective but it looks to me like you have a super rub rail going on there.... extra wide and extra flat on top.


----------



## River (Sep 28, 2008)

Nevermind - answered question myself - that's a nice setup on that boat.
I do have a different question - the jackplate your using on that for the 15hp looks like it give way more than the 2-3" raise Tom is saying his TsG plate gives??


----------



## flyfshrmn82 (Oct 12, 2007)

Here is how you start with your own construction of the rails... http://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1199713717 Read the stories and follow the links to the following threads...


----------



## Tom_C (Dec 10, 2006)

> I do have a different question - the jackplate your using on that for the 15hp looks like it give way more than the 2-3" raise Tom is saying his TsG plate gives??


flyfshrmn has one of my first Ele Jackplates. Normal mounting height of my jackplate is 2" above the transom, and 4 inches adjustment from there for a max. height of 6" above the transom.". My adjustable jackplate have 3" adjustment for a max. height of 5" above the transom.


----------

