# Keel Guard..SUV



## DavidIvey (Nov 26, 2011)

Anyone put a keel guard or a keel sheild on an SUV yet?

Even with the Float-On trailer the SUV still hates life. I've got to do something very soon. 

If they had notched out the beams that tie the two sides of the trailer togther this wouldn't be a problem. If I could only weld aluminum! ;D


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Dave,

I had a similar problem with my trailers. On a low incline ramp I would get on with no problems. On steeper inclines I would hit the trailer with the hull.

I solved this by putting the boat on the trailer and making sure I had a couple inches between the hull and the crossmembers. Then I bolted on rollers that were pushed up snug to the hull. The first time I used it I came in sideways and the boat fell between the roller and a board and the hull caught the metal bracket. I lowered the rollers so the bracket was not above the crossmember and then lowered the wood and problem solved.


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## DavidIvey (Nov 26, 2011)

> Dave,
> 
> I had a similar problem with my trailers.  On a low incline ramp I would get on with no problems.  On steeper inclines I would hit the trailer with the hull.
> 
> I solved this by putting the boat on the trailer and making sure I had a couple inches between the hull and the crossmembers.  Then I bolted on rollers that were pushed up snug to the hull.  The first time I used it I came in sideways and the boat fell between the roller and a board and the hull caught the metal bracket.  I lowered the rollers so the bracket was not above the crossmember and then lowered the wood and problem solved.


I dont have enough room for a roller on the forward beam. I could put one on the rear, but that would in a sense raise the beam even higher, yes it will roll at a certain point, but where my boat is hitting it would just run into it like it does the beam.

I may give it a shot however. It could hurt right..

I just dont under stand why they went through the trouble putting an axle that was pre-bent for a hull, but didnt even think about the beams??


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## Guest (Aug 7, 2012)

Extra Thick


















You are beating a dead horse! We all have these problems!


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## DavidIvey (Nov 26, 2011)

Then something needs to be done. 


Noodles? ;D


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

You have more room than I have on mine. Go buy a roller and bracket and set it in place. Mine is so low that the shaft in the roller is below the crossmember. The roller is maybe 1 1/2" max above the crossmember. If you do need more space, add a board on top of the ones that are on there. That would give you an extra 1 1/2" for the roller.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

Buy a large cutting board, cut it into strips, sand the edges round, and screw it down on top of the beam as a scuff pad.


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

Allow me to apologize to all interested parties, before starting this rant....  ;D

C'mon guys, this ain't rocket science.
It's a boat and a trailer.
All trailers have cross frames.
Been that way as far back as I can remember.

and yes, I can remember further back than a lot of ya'll have been alive.  

Maybe it's because I grew up in the era of galvanized break-frame trailers
and launching the trailer was a no-no, or maybe it's because
I've always bought used hulls and trailers and had to solve the problems
that come from dealing with that situation on a regular basis, it's an easy fix!
If the boat is hitting a cross frame with the forefoot or keel, it needs a roller.
Doesn't matter if it's the first frame, the second frame, the third frame or the tongue.
Fiberglass hull contacting metal trailer components makes for hull damage.
If centering the hull on the trailer is difficult, add a walkboard to the trailer
so you can get back there and line the bow up on the roller. Use that winch
instead of trying to crash the hull onto the trailer and hope you've got it centered.
Yeah, I know, it's a float-on/drive on trailer and that's how it's supposed to be done,
but guys, if it ain't working for ya', then get out of the boat, line it up with the rollers
and then winch that hull up and avoid damaging that fiberglass and gelcoat.
A float-on is for use at an improved ramp with a properly designed incline.
If the ramp is too steep or too flat, then ya'll are gonna have to adapt.
Stop trying to ram a hull onto a trailer, at ramps that weren't designed by a qualified engineer.
Add rollers and a walkboard and a power winch, if the manual winch is too much work.
This is not a difficult problem to deal with. If you launch at a ramp where you can't
sink the trailer, so you don't hit the cross frames, add rollers/winch/walkboard!
It's not the trailer, it's the ramp you're using.

There...I feel better now....rant over.... [smiley=happy.gif]


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## makin moves (Mar 20, 2010)

I just get out of the boat hook up the strap and crank it up on the trailer. No matter the ramp if you do it by hand it will go over the cross members with out damaging the boat. Ive got one of the first suv's made and no damage. I just dont drive it on the trailer. The roller will for sure help, but I would still hand crank it. Also put the wax on the bunks like Brett has mentioned in the past and it make life real easy when loading. Just be care full unloading  make sure the safety chain is on till the boat is in the water.


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## DavidIvey (Nov 26, 2011)

> Allow me to apologize to all interested parties, before starting this rant....  ;D
> 
> C'mon guys, this ain't rocket science.
> It's a boat and a trailer.
> ...



No need to rant. I was just asking what others have done... Yes they have cross braces.. But why not notch them out?? The axle is already. :

I know how to adapt trust me, I will. Try loading a RiverHawk with a Longtail mud motor that doesnt have reverse in a river...  ;D I will study this until I turn blue and I WILL be able to load my boat with out any issues what so ever once I am done. 

I have access to UHMW at work and will be cutting and molding a piece to cover the brace and have it come down infront as well.

Im came here to get ideas from others. I will toss a roller on it and give it a shot! I need to add guide poles as well. This SUV hull is 'special' so I'm going to have to make this trailer 'special'.


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## topnative2 (Feb 22, 2009)

http://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1329683684/0#0

scrap keel guard angle is to severe and will come off


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## DavidIvey (Nov 26, 2011)

> http://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1329683684/0#0
> 
> scrap keel guard angle is to severe and will come off


Well I'm gonna have to put one on anyway and just hope the rollers work. I'm not close enough to Mel to have him fix the bow to like new. 

Not much of a dip in the cross brace, but it's gotta be better than nothing... Now why didn't Float-On do this to begin with? 
http://www.sturdybuiltonline.com/Boat-Trailer-Cross-Members_c_176.html










I will more than likely use 18" rollers on the first two cross braces and one 12" on the forward one. 

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_11151_10001_92705_-1?ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=92705&cid=sc_googlepla&gclid=CPCBspaZ27ECFQHDtgod-A4A8Q

Guide Posts..

http://www.trailerpartsdepot.com/itemdesc.asp?ic=50080283&eq=&Tp=


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

Two things to add to your list....

Stainless steel roller shafts and waterproof grease to lube them with.
That way you never end up with a bound roller that won't rotate due to corrosion.
Stainless and grease in salt or brackish areas prevents a lot of problems.


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## smithst (Jun 23, 2012)

I know this has turned into a trailer thread..as it should obviously the trailer is the problem however...for an almost indestructable keel guard check out 

www.sarasotalinex.com

Linex and this shop have developed and perfected marine application of the linex for keel guards and non skid deck coatings. Similar to the truck bed liner material this stuff is TOUGH, TOUGH, TOUGH. They can computer match the color of their product to your hull color and even inlay designs.

Im soon ordering a new boat being built on the west coast and will be taking it to Linex of Sarasota as soon as I take delivery to have a color matched keel guard sprayed on.

Good luck with your trailer issues.


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## DavidIvey (Nov 26, 2011)

> Two things to add to your list....
> 
> Stainless steel roller shafts and waterproof grease to lube them with.
> That way you never end up with a bound roller that won't rotate due to corrosion.
> Stainless and grease in salt or brackish areas prevents a lot of problems.



Already on my 'at home list'! haha! A little grease will go a long way in these little spots! Hopfully I can get some parts ordered pretty soon. Im kinda at a stand still in the money department..  ;D

Too bad Sarasota is so far away..


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## DavidIvey (Nov 26, 2011)

200 dollars worth of stuff just to hopefully solve the problem. That price doesnt include the Keel Guard.. so had an estimated 150 buckaroos... 


Nothing has been ordered yet.


Item Item Name UM Qty Price Amount Delete 
Boat Trailer Guide Ons 48" Pvc (Pair)


EA $64.04 $49.95 $49.95 
Split Panel Bracket Galv (2-Pkg)


EA $11.30 $8.81 $17.63 
Shaft,5/8"Dia,18"Kr [Pkg W/2-Pal Nuts]


EA $12.15 $9.48 $18.95 
Keel Roller 18" V-Style 5/8"Id [Blk]


EA $37.27 $29.07 $58.14 
Roller End Cap 3-1/2" With 5/8"Id [Blk]


EA $3.48 $2.71 $10.86 
Split Keel Roller Asy 10"Keel Gold/Ec


EA $49.99 $38.99 $38.99 
Total Weight: 43.60lbs. Total Qty: 12 Total: $194.52


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## topnative2 (Feb 22, 2009)

get some marine tex and tint if you need to and fix the "ding" it is easy to do and nobody will see it


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## DavidIvey (Nov 26, 2011)

> get some marine tex and tint if you need to and fix the "ding" it is easy to do  and nobody will see it


I'll be sure to do that! Do you have website you usually get it from? My boat is sea foam green so Im sure there will be no way to match it.

Also I talked to Tim at Float On.. apparently the Roller Kit/Updated trailer for the SUV's does exist. I remember seeing a thread about it a while back, but for some reason my couple month old trailer didnt get this. :-?

He's kit is a 8" wide roller, however Im having him price me a 18" one. Overkill? Nope, just more protection.


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## DavidIvey (Nov 26, 2011)

A little update. Never heard back from Float On so I called them today and all I got was yeah we will get a price together and call you back. Same thing I heard two days before.

The only thing different from their 8" kit is the 18" roller and the shaft is longer. The brackets and mounting hardware are the same. Hopefully they will call be back soon. I'm ready to get this fixed.


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## Swamp (Jul 12, 2010)

So lemme get this straight, they did not put the right roller kit on it to start with or is this change something that was determined to work better after your particular trailer went out? If it was supposed to be on it to begin with why are they are charging you? Plus they are dragging their feet? Unless I'm missing something I'd be taking my money elsewhere.

Swamp


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