# Dolphin Renegade rebuild



## dlpanadero

Bought a 2001 Dolphin Renegade project hull a few weeks ago, under the impression it just needed some cosmetic work (deck/cockpit gelcoat, etc). To make a rather long story short, I found out the next day after doing some sanding that it needed a lot more than cosmetics (I have a separate thread on here where I go into details about that, if you care to search it).

I found out the stringers were compromised and the hull had actually developed hairline stress cracks all the way through directly underneath the stringer/hull bond, meaning it needed full rebuild. Not good. After some choice words I settled on the fact that I had four options:

A) Re-sell the hull and pretend I did not know about the extent of the damage
B) Re-sell the hull and disclose the damage (and flush a fair amount of money down the toilet)
C) Use the boat as is, despite the fact the cracked hull would be on my mind every time I used it
D) Pull up my shirtsleeves and rebuild the f*cking thing

Options A and C were obviously never gonna happen, so after a few days trying to decide whether to keep it or sell it and take a loss, I decided on the former. This thread will simply be photos and description of the rebuild process. Maybe it will be of use to someone down the road who decides to tackle a similar project.

I have rebuilt a Pathfinder tunnel hull and a Mitzi 16 in the past, so here are the links to those if you care to read them:

https://www.microskiff.com/threads/photo-documentary-pathfinder-15t-stringer-rebuild.43144/


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## dlpanadero

I could not really find any similar full rebuild threads for this particular skiff, so this project will (and has already been) kind of a learn-as-you-go process. You will see in some of the pics I destroyed a decent section of the deck trying to figure out how the thing was put together. For better visualization, here is a sketch of how this particular boat is built:










I am not a naval engineer nor am I any sort of engineer for that matter. However, in my very humble opinion the structural design of this boat is questionable. On the outboard sides of a robust central stringer, you have two thin, flimsy port and starboard "stringers" that are nothing more than a couple layers of fiberglass laminate. They must have come out of a mold because they are hollow and tied in to the side and bottom of the hull.

In my opinion, the questionable aspect of the design is the fact that the laminate on the inboard sides of the stringers is a good 2x thicker than the outboard - maybe more. Basically you have these little hollow fiberglass structures with radically unequal tensile strengths on either side of them. On the inboard sides of the stringers, it appears the manufacturers used a chop gun to blow about an 1/8" or 1/4" of chopped glass over top of the stringer tabbing. One would of course have to crunch some numbers to determine the exact number, but I would guess the inboard laminate is easily 200%+ stronger than the outboard side.

In doing this, it seems a natural stress point was created. Now I don't know if all of these boats are prone to failure in these same areas, or if this particular skiff experienced some sort of a trailer accident or something that led to the hull and stringer damage. But given the reputation of Dolphin it is surprising (to me). It should not be difficult to build a 16' fiberglass skiff that doesn't fail after a decade and a half.

Longitudinal rigidity comes from a boat's stringer grid. On boats of this size, this should not be a complex engineering process. A stringer should run in a straight line fore to aft, as far as it can go. The taller it is, the more rigid. From what I understand, if the laminate of the hull is consistent throughout, all stringers should be of the same structural integrity. I couldn't tell you what the design purpose of this particular stringer grid was. But then again, what do I know...


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## dlpanadero

I am going to rebuild one stringer at a time. This serves two purposes. It will allow me to keep half the deck in (which will make things easier while I'm in the boat moving around and working), and it will also hopefully reduce the chance of the hull distorting in the absence of both port and starboard stringers.

I have removed the starboard stringer and will be starting with that. I will be using PRISMA 4030 preform beams to rebuild. I drove over to the Compsys manufacturing plant in Merritt Island to pick them up. Many boats nowadays are made with these preforms, including (I believe but correct me if I'm wrong) all Mavericks, Pathfinders, and current Dolphins.

In other words the rebuild will be a different design than the original build. I know it is typically frowned upon to adjust original hull design, but... this hull failed. So I believe there is justification in doing so.
























The new stringers will be tied into the transom and will run up to the front hatch. The hairline stress cracks stop directly aft of the foreward hatch, so hopefully this will be sufficient. I have left 1 1/2" of the original deck as a ledge - the new deck will be glued to this. It is more typical to have the old and new decks run flush with one another and tie in with a flange bolted on the underside of the old deck, but given the angle of the hull where the deck is tied in it makes more sense to do it this way.

It is hard to see in the pictures but there is about a 1/2 "gutter" created from the thick buildup of chopped glass on the inboard side of the original stringer. This has given me many headaches trying to think about the best way to rebuild this. In a perfect world, the "gutter" would be reinforced and built up with fiberglass to match the thickness of the rest of the hull. Again, a foolish design in my opinion.

Obviously you want your stringer tabs tied in to as much of the hull as possible, so I will simply be laying them down over the "gutter", and then creating more thickness on top with additional layers (strips) of 1708. I thought about building up the thickness of the "gutter" first with strips of 1708, but then you are reducing the bond area of the stringer tabs to the hull.


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## Plantation

Good luck. This is a going to be a sweet skiff when you are done with it.


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## Boneheaded

WOW, i was after that boat but opted out! Better you than, I sure it'll turn out great!


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## dlpanadero

Let's hope so  Got a long ways to go


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## not2shabby

It'll be worth the effort. Sorry for the position you're in on the skiff, but I think you'll end up with a much better boat and a helluva lot of pride of ownership when you're done.


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## Monty

Looks like the right person got a hold of that boat. Sounds like you are more than competent. I had one of those Dolphin 16s in 1988. Jack Broyle sold me the hull and I finished out the deck and made a center console and took care of all rigging. That boat had 2 large square stringers running the length of the boat -- no wood not rot was the slogan back then. I opted for a plywood transom and saved $300 or so, Seems like I paid $1800. Money was tight. I built the top cap on the gunnels with marine plywood and let someone talk me into fairing it with microballons mixed with resin. They let water in and the top cap just rotted. The hull held up great though and so did the glass on plywood floor. I ran a Mariner 60 which was OK but a 75 or 90 would have been better. Great ride in choppy water.


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## Fishflatmike

By mounting the new deck on top of the original deck ledge how will you handle the drain holes? Will you have to raise them?


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## dlpanadero

Fishflatmike said:


> By mounting the new deck on top of the original deck ledge how will you handle the drain holes? Will you have to raise them?


Yeah I will have to seal the current ones off then drill new holes and re-fit about 1/2" higher.


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## dlpanadero

A lot of sanding done today, starboard stringer will go in tomorrow after work. In the pictures you can see the hairline stress crack in the laminate that was underneath the original stringer. Truth be told I probably could have repaired this by flipping the boat over and laying two strips of 1708 over the cracks. 1708 is very strong, and I doubt it would have re-cracked. But... those stringers would have been on my mind each time I took the boat out and trailered it. Better just to do it all.

I will groove a small "V" along the length of the crack with a Dremel and inject some epoxy resin in before glassing over. After the stringers are done, I will flip the boat over and do the same from the outside of the hull. I will tape over with two layers of 1708. Probably should use epoxy for the outside, but still undecided on that.


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## yobata

Have you considered putting a layer of biax down on the entire hull before the preformed stringers? For piece of mind in case you overlooked any other cracks.


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## dlpanadero

yobata said:


> Have you considered putting a layer of biax down on the entire hull before the preformed stringers? For piece of mind in case you overlooked any other cracks.


Haven't really considered that.. not a bad idea. But still I think I'd prefer to bond the new stringers directly to the original hull layup rather than new material. I think it'd be fairly easy to notice any other cracks.. and I haven't seen any. Seems like it's just that weak area directly underneath the outboard stringers.


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## dlpanadero

So here's a good one for ya. In my first post you can see the hairline cracks that run along the underside of this hull. Apparently Tom Gordon looked at the boat and told the previous owner (i.e. the guy I bought it from) to "hang a motor on it and use it." I don't know about you but I wouldn't feel too comfortable running a skiff WOT in the knowledge that it had blown out stringers and a cracked hull. But hey that's just me. Lesson learned do not trust anyone ever when it comes to doing work for you. Want something done, do it yourself.

Anyway... the guy I had bought the boat from had proceeded to Awlgrip over the cracks (a god-awful job, by the way... pics to come later), then sell it to me and not disclose any information about the cracks - despite multiple times asking about the structural condition of the boat.

Of course at this point that's neither here nor there. Today instead of glassing the starboard stringer in I decided to finish cutting out what's left of the deck. I didn't want to lay the new stringer in then have everything rattling around like a son of a bitch while I finished cutting/grinding etc. I hope this weekend to have the stringer job done. Then I can start thinking about flipping the hull over and having some fun on the other side.


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## Guest

dlpanadero said:


> So here's a good one for ya. In my first post you can see the hairline cracks that run along the underside of this hull. Apparently Tom Gordon looked at the boat and told the previous owner (i.e. the guy I bought it from) to "hang a motor on it and use it." I don't know about you but I wouldn't feel too comfortable running a skiff WOT in the knowledge that it had blown out stringers and a cracked hull. But hey that's just me. Lesson learned do not trust anyone ever when it comes to doing work for you. Want something done, do it yourself.
> 
> Anyway... the guy I had bought the boat from had proceeded to Awlgrip over the cracks (a god-awful job, by the way... pics to come later), then sell it to me and not disclose any information about the cracks - despite multiple times asking about the structural condition of the boat.
> 
> Of course at this point that's neither here nor there. Today instead of glassing the starboard stringer in I decided to finish cutting out what's left of the deck. I didn't want to lay the new stringer in then have everything rattling around like a son of a bitch while I finished cutting/grinding etc. I hope this weekend to have the stringer job done. Then I can start thinking about flipping the hull over and having some fun on the other side.
> 
> View attachment 88230
> View attachment 88232
> View attachment 88234
> View attachment 88236


Ok, I have held out long enough. So you bought a boat you are unhappy with. You knew the “poor condition” of the boat when you went back a second time and dropped the coin for it! You have done nothing but bad mouth the seller “who gave you your money back and was more than happy to lose the sale”. Then you started bad mouthing Tom for telling the seller the hull wasn’t worth fixing and to just run it. Maybe not the best advise, but would have to have been there to properly interpret what Tom was saying. Pics are shit for diagnosing a repair and can only go so far off them to see how bad damage really is or isn’t. Then you basically started bad mouthing every mechanic and glass guy by saying “you should never trust ANYONE to do repairs for you and to just do it yourself if you want it done right! “That saying wasn’t meant in the literal sense!” Well, I am both an outboard tech and glass guy and also Detroit and Cummins diesel and have trained on a few gas turbines “many years ago”. So according to you I cannot be trusted to do a proper repair and I absolutely resent that remark! It has been my experience that the guy that trusts no one and bad mouths everyone is the guy that CANNOT be trusted! Sorry for the thread derail, Good luck with the project and tight lines!


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## jonterr

Boatbrains said:


> Ok, I have held out long enough. So you bought a boat you are unhappy with. You knew the “poor condition” of the boat when you went back a second time and dropped the coin for it! You have done nothing but bad mouth the seller “who gave you your money back and was more than happy to lose the sale”. Then you started bad mouthing Tom for telling the seller the hull wasn’t worth fixing and to just run it. Maybe not the best advise, but would have to have been there to properly interpret what Tom was saying. Pics are shit for diagnosing a repair and can only go so far off them to see how bad damage really is or isn’t. Then you basically started bad mouthing every mechanic and glass guy by saying “you should never trust ANYONE to do repairs for you and to just do it yourself if you want it done right! “That saying wasn’t meant in the literal sense!” Well, I am both an outboard tech and glass guy and also Detroit and Cummins diesel and have trained on a few gas turbines “many years ago”. So according to you I cannot be trusted to do a proper repair and I absolutely resent that remark! It has been my experience that the guy that trusts no one and bad mouths everyone is the guy that CANNOT be trusted! Sorry for the thread derail, Good luck with the project and tight lines!


Yeah
He ended the last thread to start a new one, then ended up bashing the guy again


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## Finsleft258

Fiberglass doesn't stick to HDPE (Starboard). Pick a different stringer material.


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## jmrodandgun

Finsleft258 said:


> Fiberglass doesn't stick to HDPE (Starboard). Pick a different stringer material.


He's using Prisma preforms for stringers. It's a starboard stringer not a StarBoard stringer


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## flysalt060

Why cut the floor up when you can separate top cap from Hull?


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## jmrodandgun

Because the cap and the floor don't come out in one piece.


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## Monty

Boatbrains said:


> Ok, I have held out long enough. So you bought a boat you are unhappy with. You knew the “poor condition” of the boat when you went back a second time and dropped the coin for it! You have done nothing but bad mouth the seller “who gave you your money back and was more than happy to lose the sale”. Then you started bad mouthing Tom for telling the seller the hull wasn’t worth fixing and to just run it. Maybe not the best advise, but would have to have been there to properly interpret what Tom was saying. Pics are shit for diagnosing a repair and can only go so far off them to see how bad damage really is or isn’t. Then you basically started bad mouthing every mechanic and glass guy by saying “you should never trust ANYONE to do repairs for you and to just do it yourself if you want it done right! “That saying wasn’t meant in the literal sense!” Well, I am both an outboard tech and glass guy and also Detroit and Cummins diesel and have trained on a few gas turbines “many years ago”. So according to you I cannot be trusted to do a proper repair and I absolutely resent that remark! It has been my experience that the guy that trusts no one and bad mouths everyone is the guy that CANNOT be trusted! Sorry for the thread derail, Good luck with the project and tight lines!


I've seen your posts in the past and they've always been cordial (all that I saw). But you did "go off" on this guy because he was unhappy that he bought a boat with structural issues that he didn't know about. All of us would be complaining, I know, its happened to me. To my knowledge NO negatives comments were directed at you. I don't think he knows you, almost all of us on this site don't really know each other. He is a do it yourselfer and not going to use a pro rebuilder, so please don't feel you need to "take up" for all fiberglass shops in Florida. I think you got offended when you didn't need to be.


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## dlpanadero

Finsleft258 said:


> Fiberglass doesn't stick to HDPE (Starboard). Pick a different stringer material.


What??


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## dlpanadero

jmrodandgun said:


> He's using Prisma preforms for stringers. It's a starboard stringer not a StarBoard stringer


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## dlpanadero

My apologies for bringing up the previous owner situation in this thread.. I'll make sure future posts are strictly about the build. Everything I wanted to say about that topic I've already said so if anyone cares to read about it please search the other thread.

Also my apologies if I offended any tradesmen/mechanics etc in my previous post.. I'm sure there are many skilled professionals out there who do top quality, honest work. Maybe I've just dealt with the wrong people in the past or maybe my expectations for quality are too high, but every experience I've had with professionals has left me underwhelmed, and with the feeling I could have done a better job myself. Thus my reasoning. I will say though that I don't really appreciate the implication that due to my skepticism, I'm someone who can't be trusted. Ask anyone I've done business with, and I believe they'd say quite the opposite.


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## dlpanadero

flysalt060 said:


> Why cut the floor up when you can separate top cap from Hull?


The "cap" on this boat is the gunnels and the forward deck, so removing it wouldn't have given me any access to anything. I've also never really understood how caps are removed anyway without destroying them.


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## Guest

Monty said:


> I've seen your posts in the past and they've always been cordial (all that I saw). But you did "go off" on this guy because he was unhappy that he bought a boat with structural issues that he didn't know about. All of us would be complaining, I know, its happened to me. To my knowledge NO negatives comments were directed at you. I don't think he knows you, almost all of us on this site don't really know each other. He is a do it yourselfer and not going to use a pro rebuilder, so please don't feel you need to "take up" for all fiberglass shops in Florida. I think you got offended when you didn't need to be.


I was not taking up for all the glass shops in Fl. He made the statement to never trust anyone to do the job right. Also, he knew about the problems and bought the boat anyways and the proceeded to bash people. I am sorry if you misunderstood what I was saying or failed to read both of his threads on this hull.


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## Guest

dlpanadero said:


> My apologies for bringing up the previous owner situation in this thread.. I'll make sure future posts are strictly about the build. Everything I wanted to say about that topic I've already said so if anyone cares to read about it please search the other thread.
> 
> Also my apologies if I offended any tradesmen/mechanics etc in my previous post.. I'm sure there are many skilled professionals out there who do top quality, honest work. Maybe I've just dealt with the wrong people in the past or maybe my expectations for quality are too high, but every experience I've had with professionals has left me underwhelmed, and with the feeling I could have done a better job myself. Thus my reasoning. I will say though that I don't really appreciate the implication that due to my skepticism, I'm someone who can't be trusted. Ask anyone I've done business with, and I believe they'd say quite the opposite.


Having someone imply that you can’t/ shouldn’t be trusted doesn’t feel very good does it? That is basically what you did to all tradesmen and business owners in your post and I simply responded. There are a few bad apples out there yes! But not all of us are.


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## dlpanadero

Boatbrains said:


> I was not taking up for all the glass shops in Fl. He made the statement to never trust anyone to do the job right. Also, he knew about the problems and bought the boat anyways and the proceeded to bash people. I am sorry if you misunderstood what I was saying or failed to read both of his threads on this hull.


I most certainly did not know the extent of the problems when I bought the boat, please do not put words in my mouth.


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## dlpanadero

Boatbrains said:


> Having someone imply that you can’t/ shouldn’t be trusted doesn’t feel very good does it? That is basically what you did to all tradesmen and business owners in your post and I simply responded. There are a few bad apples out there yes! But not all of us are.


Point taken, and I do apologize. I know there are plenty of talented, hard-working honest professionals out there and I have no doubts you are one of them. I guess my personal experiences have just left a bitter taste in my mouth


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## Finsleft258

jmrodandgun said:


> He's using Prisma preforms for stringers. It's a starboard stringer not a StarBoard stringer





dlpanadero said:


> What??





dlpanadero said:


>


Missed that part. I'll quit reading when I'm hungover. Carry on!


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## devrep

James chill  I don't trust most workmen either LOL. I've been disappointed too many times. and the guy has apologized 3 times. I'm sure your work is great but I guess we'll know that if your damn boat ever makes an appearance. !!! gotcha.


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## Karlee

There are a lot of feelings goin on In this build thread

Work looks great so far!


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## devrep

I wonder if you did a simple vacuum bag if you could pull epoxy down into those cracks? this from a fiberglass simpleton.


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## Guest

devrep said:


> I wonder if you did a simple vacuum bag if you could pull epoxy down into those cracks? this from a fiberglass simpleton.


One probably could do this. It would still need additional reinforcement because the structure is compromised. I am sure OP is gonna do a damn fine job with the repair as he is heading in the right direction already.


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## dlpanadero

Thanks for all the nice positive comments guys and apologize if things got off track there for a bit. Work on the rebuild has still been ongoing, will post new pics soon. Best wishes to everyone this weekend while we see how the Dorian situation plays out.


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## Plantation

Any new photo updates?


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## dlpanadero

Not the time of year to be doing this kind of work, phew...

Took me awhile to get everything cleaned out and ready to start fiberglass. Good news is most of the hard grinding and sanding should be done. Mostly building from here on out.

Got the stringers set in with epoxy. These Prisma preform stringers have a gray felt-like bedding material (I think it’s called Travera) on the bottom that you have to wet out, then lay them in place on the hull. In order to get a good flush fit I set batteries on top of them while the epoxy cured. Came out really nice. I decided to bite the bullet and use 3:1 epoxy for the whole project because of the adhesive advantages it has over polyester. Much more expensive, but oh well.

Also used two part pour foam to fill in the gap and tie the stringers to the transom. This will be properly tied in with several layers of glass on top. 

Cut and fitted some little pieces of pvc to act as drains in the event moisture ever gets into the outboard sides of the stringers. 

I think everything is coming along really well, just never ending amounts of work. 

(Also you’ll notice how the stringers curve to the match the lines of the hull.. I used a spot of West System rapid cure epoxy about 18 inches back from the forward end, tacked it in place while I curved it then another spot at the end to hold it in place while the regular 3:1 epoxy cured).


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## dlpanadero

Port side is done and glassed in


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## Tautog166

You ain’t messing around! Gonna be better than new when you get through.


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## dlpanadero

Walter Lee said:


> You ain’t messing around! Gonna be better than new when you get through.


I certainly hope so! I think I am WAY overbuilding it but rather it be overbuilt than underbuilt


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## permitchaser

Thats going to be one fine boat when you get through. I'm glad you decided to restore the boat. I sorta know how you feel. My boat had a motor with busted cylinders and a glassed in gas tank full of holes
you just fix it then fish


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## dlpanadero

Ughhh. Tabs on the starboard stringer are a complete wash.. just had to cut them out after wetting out half the damn stringer.

When I set the stringers in with the batteries on top some resin had squeezed out the sides and cured. This caused some sections of the tabs to not sit flush to the hull.. there were small air bubbles throughout after I wet them out. After all the hard work and money I’ve put into this thing I just couldn’t consciously leave it like that, so I took the scissors to it. There were a couple sections on the port side like that that I cut out before glassing it in, thought I could get away with the starboard side but I guess not.

Now I’ll have to grind all the way back to the base of the stringer, cut out sections of new tabs, and spread a fillet along the seam before glassing them in.

Realistically the air bubbles probly wouldn’t have made any difference, but I just couldn’t leave it like that.

I think I’m gonna put the boat away and walk away for awhile.. I’ve been working myself to exhaustion between this and my regular full time job, and just can’t keep it up. I’ll come back to it at some point. But I need a break.


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## Backcountry 16

dlpanadero said:


> Ughhh. Tabs on the starboard stringer are a complete wash.. just had to cut them out after wetting out half the damn stringer.
> 
> When I set the stringers in with the batteries on top some resin had squeezed out the sides and cured. This caused some sections of the tabs to not sit flush to the hull.. there were small air bubbles throughout after I wet them out. After all the hard work and money I’ve put into this thing I just couldn’t consciously leave it like that, so I took the scissors to it. There were a couple sections on the port side like that that I cut out before glassing it in, thought I could get away with the starboard side but I guess not.
> 
> Now I’ll have to grind all the way back to the base of the stringer, cut out sections of new tabs, and spread a fillet along the seam before glassing them in.
> 
> Realistically the air bubbles probly wouldn’t have made any difference, but I just couldn’t leave it like that.
> 
> I think I’m gonna put the boat away and walk away for awhile.. I’ve been working myself to exhaustion between this and my regular full time job, and just can’t keep it up. I’ll come back to it at some point. But I need a break.
> 
> 
> View attachment 91220


Don't get deterred it'll come together and will be just as good if not better than new. And you'll be fishing it for years.


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## RogueTribe

I prefer to work with multiple layers of thinner material and even piece things together when short on time and glassing solo. Wrinkles and bubbles can be cut out and tabbed over or drilled into and injected. It's all going to be hidden so just press on and get it done well, doesn't have to be perfect. I'll pray to the slow cure God's for you tonight.


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## dlpanadero

Stringers are done and came out great. Fully tabbed, all epoxy resin with an additional layer of 1708. Forgot to take pics after finishing them but will get some better shots later.

Next step is repairing the cracks on the bottom. Used a small crane to lift the boat off the trailer, rolled the trailer out from underneath, set it on tires, then used manpower to flip the hull.


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## dlpanadero

When I lifted the hull off the trailer I saw where someone else had sanded down the crack to bare fiberglass. Guy I bought it from stood there in his driveway and told me he’d never seen the cracks before and wouldn’t worry about it. What a fucking crock of shit...


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## jonterr

Yeah
If I was in your position, I'd be pissed too
Still, hard to say if the guy you bought it from knew about it, if a shop covered it up


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## permitchaser

Well if thats all that's wrong with the hull your on your way


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## dlpanadero

Since the paint job was so bad I decided to grind it all away and start over. I ground all the way down to glass inboard of the the chines and along the keel, this is where the stress cracks had developed from the broken stringers.

Added 1708 with epoxy in these areas and in the process of fairing it in. First round of fairing done. Once fair, I will barrier coat with epoxy and then paint.









(I got a little overzealous with the grinder hence the spots of bare glass all over).


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## dlpanadero

Here are some good shots of the cracks. Below is a shot of the keel (the stress cracks are directly below the center stringer). Probably unnecessary to go to this length to repair this particular problem but... once I got started I figured I might as well go overboard (pun).

I think it’s clear this boat was used very, very, very heavily over the years. Which of course is not a bad thing. I know the previous owner had a huge livewell (probably 40 gal at least) screwed into the deck... imagine all that weight banging the hull for (what I would imagine) was probably years with busted stringers. I think she deserves the love she’s getting after being abused that hard.

















Here’s a pic of the livewell she was holding..


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## dlpanadero

Bottom is done. 1708 fiberglass over the cracks, three rounds of fairing, epoxy barrier coat, then 3 coats of Sea Hawk antifouling paint. Was gonna do gelcoat but given the epoxy repairs underneath didn’t want to chance a poor bond. Everything came out beautifully. Only thing that’s kind of a bummer is the paint dried kind of cream colored. Was supposed to be pure white to match the hull. Oh well..

Will flip the hull this weekend and install the motor.


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## SFL_Mirage

Looks great man!


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## permitchaser

Awsom


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## RogueTribe

Nice job!


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## dlpanadero

Starting to kinda sorta look like a boat.


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## Plantation

Looking good. What did you use to clean up your Dolphin motor bracket bar?


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## dlpanadero

Plantation said:


> Looking good. What did you use to clean up your Dolphin motor bracket bar?


Acetone and the wire brush wheel on the grinder


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## Plantation

Came out great, wasn't sure if you used a media blaster or not. I need to clean up mine.


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## dlpanadero

Plantation said:


> Came out great, wasn't sure if you used a media blaster or not. I need to clean up mine.


Yeah thanks it came out ok.. was pretty gunked up. I was about to bolt the motor and thought, 'if I don't clean this thing up now I'll never do it.' Haha. Also ran the wire brush over the bolts to get all the old 5200 sealant off. Came out like new. Nice to finally get the motor on.


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## ascentone

Nice work! She's looking great!


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## dlpanadero

ascentone said:


> Nice work! She's looking great!


Thanks!!


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## dlpanadero

Floor template is in, I’m using 0.4” (10mm) nidacore. On top there will be two layers of 1708 and a layer of 1 oz mat. On the bottom there will be one layer of 1708 as well as 1” stiffeners. The seam for the two large forward panels sits on top of the center stringer. The smaller aft panels I had to cut into two sections, otherwise I can’t fit it under the gunnels.

This is the point where I wish I had access to vacuum infusion... gonna be a royal pain to hand lay all this glass.


----------



## GaG8tor

You’re getting there. Looking good


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## BrownDog

Nifty way to template the floor, looking good!


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## dlpanadero

Finished glassing the floor and added stiffeners, but lots of little things to take care of before it goes in permanently. The center stringer was a little “fatigued” so I decided to stabilize it with two layers of 1708 and epoxy on both sides.

Since I used preform stringers I was not able to get the height absolutely perfect, so had to add risers on certain sections using strips of the old cored deck that I had cut out. I don’t want to use more than 1/2” of putty to bond the deck to the stringers, so have been trying to reduce the gap as much as possible along the entire length. I raised the middle section of the outboard stringers about 3/8” using 6 layers of 1708 cut into strips. The gap *should* now be less than 1/2” (hopefully more like 1/4”) in all areas. The epoxy putty will of course fill in any gaps when I set the floor in.

The pink blocks are little transverse structures I built so the aft seam of the deck panels has something to sit on. There will be batteries and probably a little livewell in this area so extra support cannot hurt. They will be glassed and tabbed in with 3 (maybe 4) layers of 1708.

I am planning on adding flotation foam on the outboard sides of the stringers. For safety purposes, of course 

Deck should be going in in the next couple of days.


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## jlindsley

When you finish installing the deck will you take $5k for it!? 

Seriously though, looking good. excited to see finished product.


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## Tautog166

Damn you have a lot of batteries!

Boat looks great


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## dlpanadero

jlindsley said:


> When you finish installing the deck will you take $5k for it!?
> 
> Seriously though, looking good. excited to see finished product.


Hahaha $5k for the deck? Sure!! 

Thanks for the kind words


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## dlpanadero

Walter Lee said:


> Damn you have a lot of batteries!
> 
> Boat looks great


Thanks  And the batteries, I know!! I was thinking that while lugging all of them around.. like where the heck did all these come from haha


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## dlpanadero

I believe one or two of you guys on this thread have had this same dolphin renegade hull, I have a question about location for a livewell pickup.

Since there’s very little dead rise on the hull I’m a little skeptical about putting a scoop directly on the bottom of the boat. Running and poling so shallow i imagine it would hit bottom frequently.

My question is what about putting it in the little pocket tunnel? Apologies if this is a dumb question but it really would be a convenient location both inside and outside the hull. I’ll attach some pictures below to show exactly where it’d be nice to place it.































Like I said maybe this is a dumb question but I just don’t know if putting a scoop here would A) cause problems in water getting to the motor and/or B) not be able to pickup water while running up on plane (which of course is the whole point of a hi speed scoop).

Thanks in advance if any of you have thoughts/experiences with this.


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## Guest

Don’t so it! Putting that scoop in your tunnel will cause cavitation issues from hell. Shop around, there is a through hull that has the front machined out to act as a scoop and would be fine on the hull bottom as it only protrudes 1/4” +/-. You would have to run an internal screen pre pump but they work great!


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## dlpanadero

Boatbrains said:


> Don’t so it! Putting that scoop in your tunnel will cause cavitation issues from hell. Shop around, there is a through hull that has the front machined out to act as a scoop and would be fine on the hull bottom as it only protrudes 1/4” +/-. You would have to run an internal screen pre pump but they work great!


Yeah I’ve seen those but figured they’d do nothing but suck gunk up and get clogged all the time. I’ll try and find the one w the internal screen you’re talking about. Thanks for the reply


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## Plantation

I personally hate the scoop on the bottom of my Renegade. It's like yours and I'm about to remove it. Mines on the port side and a little farther away from center than yours. I have not once in 4 years used mine. I definitely feel it when I'm poling super skinny. I'd just manually scoop water into the livewell and remove it if I had it as open as you do. Mines going to be a pain to remove with what little hatch room I have to work with. Then again I don't do much live bait fishing.

I had a friend who mounted a small pump on his HB's trim tab and he loved it. Said it would fill up his livewell in seconds. Wasn't the prettiest thing though.


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## Plantation

If you do remove it I want to hear how hard it was for it to come off the hull.


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## dlpanadero

Ready for the floor. now I just have to wait for some decent weather..


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## Thefishingchef

Dude I would just get one of those bubbles buckets or whatever they are called. No holes and no stress of pumps and what not. They make em in all sizes and just needs batteries. Save the headache


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## dlpanadero

Plantation said:


> I personally hate the scoop on the bottom of my Renegade. It's like yours and I'm about to remove it. Mines on the port side and a little farther away from center than yours. I have not once in 4 years used mine. I definitely feel it when I'm poling super skinny. I'd just manually scoop water into the livewell and remove it if I had it as open as you do. Mines going to be a pain to remove with what little hatch room I have to work with. Then again I don't do much live bait fishing.
> 
> I had a friend who mounted a small pump on his HB's trim tab and he loved it. Said it would fill up his livewell in seconds. Wasn't the prettiest thing though.


Thanks for the great info, maybe I will end up going the transom mount route and try and find a place for a thru hull next to the trim tabs


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## dlpanadero

Got the floor in on Friday, came out solid as a rock. Although I will say, it is not easy on your arms mixing up almost 2 gallons of thick epoxy putty, a quart at a time.
























Cockpit with or without the sport seat? Ever since I saw flip pallots hell’s bay skiff with the seat I really liked the looks of it.

(The little console will have to be trimmed down some so it’s flush with the gunwales)


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## jasonrl23

Without the sport seat


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## dlpanadero

jasonrl23 said:


> Without the sport seat


I agree


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## jmrodandgun

dlpanadero said:


> Cockpit with or without the sport seat?


Keep it. Chairs are cool. Empty cockpit space is for squares and weight wienies.


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## Backcountry 16

jasonrl23 said:


> Without the sport seat


Agreed throw a bean bag chair there if you need another seat easily removed.


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## permitchaser

No damn barber chair


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## permitchaser

dlpanadero said:


> Yeah I’ve seen those but figured they’d do nothing but suck gunk up and get clogged all the time. I’ll try and find the one w the internal screen you’re talking about. Thanks for the reply


I got 2 through hull pickups on the bottom of my boat, just back of the console. When i first started restoring it i thought keep it as it was but now i wish i had glassed them over. I've got 2 high GPH pumps to fill my 2 big live wells
i now take a 5 gallon bucket to fill the smaller LW.then i have a resercullating pump to add oxegen then pull the plug to empty


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## dlpanadero

Haha loving the chair responses


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## dlpanadero

permitchaser said:


> I got 2 through hull pickups on the bottom of my boat, just back of the console. When i first started restoring it i thought keep it as it was but now i wish i had glassed them over. I've got 2 high GPH pumps to fill my 2 big live wells
> i now take a 5 gallon bucket to fill the smaller LW.then i have a resercullating pump to add oxegen then pull the plug to empty


So how does the recirc do in keeping a well full of pilchards alive on a ~30 minute run? Not that I do that often, but id like to have the opportunity to if I wanted. I’ve always heard recirc was pretty useless if you’ve got a livewell full of greenbacks.


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## jmrodandgun

I bet this dude is thinking how much cooler it would be if he was riding on the floor on a beanbag chair.


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## dlpanadero

jmrodandgun said:


> I bet this dude is thinking how much cooler it would be if he was riding on the floor on a beanbag chair.


Hahah that’s the one and only Flip pallot  that’s actually the same exact picture I was using to plan out my cockpit. I think I’m for sure gonna go without the seat though.


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## dlpanadero

I’ll tell you one thing I wouldn’t mind sitting in that chair all day with a case of beer and a shrimp on a bobber


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## Backcountry 16

jmrodandgun said:


> I bet this dude is thinking how much cooler it would be if he was riding on the floor on a beanbag chair.


If I could be lucky enough to pole that legend around I'd sit on the floor. Just sayin


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## omegadef

dlpanadero said:


> I’ll tell you one thing I wouldn’t mind sitting in that chair all day with a case of beer and a shrimp on a bobber


you forgot the ice for the beer.


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## dlpanadero

omegadef said:


> you forgot the ice for the beer.


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## permitchaser

dlpanadero said:


> So how does the recirc do in keeping a well full of pilchards alive on a ~30 minute run? Not that I do that often, but id like to have the opportunity to if I wanted. I’ve always heard recirc was pretty useless if you’ve got a livewell full of greenbacks.


i try not to put to many pogies in there and add ice on a regular basis and they stay alive for a good time. Then run the recric to help


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## dlpanadero

Was planning on glassing a support knee under the side console and tying it into the side of the hull but was a little tricky given the location of the under gunnel rod holder. I think it looks pretty clean with this pedestal mount though. Don’t know if I’ll keep it this way but it’ll work for now. The console is also bolted to the gunnel flange with three big stainless bolts so the support should be plenty. Steering cable is hooked up to the helm and is very solid (even though I need a shorter cable 

Still have to bevel down and tape all the deck seams, install the shifter and fuel lines, fair and gelcoat everything before she’s ready to be splashed.


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## TidewateR

jmrodandgun said:


> I bet this dude is thinking how much cooler it would be if he was riding on the floor on a beanbag chair.


Agreed..stuffed sacks are what dogs sleep on (or @EvanHammer). I’m not sitting on the deck of a skiff in gloried dog bed.

With that said, I’d try a marine folding deck chair (one of the light ones or even the yeti one). Lay up the floor to take a bolt down chair in the future if your passengers don’t like the foldy chair. Can always add it later


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## GaG8tor

Looking good


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## dlpanadero

Templating the bulkhead/bench seat. I’ve seen people glue a bunch of popsicle sticks to a primary template board but that gets pretty tedious and you have to be careful to not break or move any of the sticks. I much prefer this method, it is similar to using a ticking stick like the old wooden boat builders did.


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## dlpanadero

Pardon my French, but my god the work is just fucking never ending. Just when you think you’ve completed a major task and are on the final stretch you realize you’ve got more grinding to do, then more measuring, and then re-measuring, then some more grinding. Always there is grinding. Essentially have been working 2 full time jobs for the past 5 months between this and my regular job and man it’s tiring.

Anyway.. the bulkhead/bench seat supports are shaped and ready for installation. I made them from part of the original floor that I cut out. The core and lamination is still in great shape. Next step is cutting out about 48 pieces of fiberglass to seal up the deck to the hull and tab in the bench seats.


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## Finsleft258

What's the quote you had on the stringer?


edit:
Nevermind...Zoom got it; quite lovely.


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## dlpanadero

Finsleft258 said:


> What's the quote you had on the stringer?
> 
> 
> edit:
> Nevermind...Zoom got it; quite lovely.


Oh haha I think those were some old measurements I’d written down awhile back. The stringers I bought from Prisma preforms and I think I paid like $150 for two 10 ft pieces


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## permitchaser

That thing will be sweet


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## Finsleft258

dlpanadero said:


> Oh haha I think those were some old measurements I’d written down awhile back. The stringers I bought from Prisma preforms and I think I paid like $150 for two 10 ft pieces


Those were obvious... It was a quote from Isaiah.


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## bryson

Looking good man! I know it's a huge pain but you're making great progress, and you'll have a skiff you can really count on when it's all said and done.

One thing to y'all knocking the beanbag... have you ever tried it? I've never used one on a skiff but I can promise you that on an offshore boat it's the best seat in the house, especially since they usually get set near the stern. Storage would be my only hang-up on a skiff. I would be very surprised if it wasn't as comfortable as it gets as far as seating goes.


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## PG350

Your way works great, but I will say with a good hot glue gun the popsicle and glue method is very fast and they actually dont break off easy. I might try your way when I do my deck and knees though. Looked like it worked for you. 

Boat is looking great. 





dlpanadero said:


> Templating the bulkhead/bench seat. I’ve seen people glue a bunch of popsicle sticks to a primary template board but that gets pretty tedious and you have to be careful to not break or move any of the sticks. I much prefer this method, it is similar to using a ticking stick like the old wooden boat builders did.
> 
> View attachment 104622
> View attachment 104624
> View attachment 104626
> View attachment 104628


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## PG350

bryson said:


> Looking good man! I know it's a huge pain but you're making great progress, and you'll have a skiff you can really count on when it's all said and done.
> 
> One thing to y'all knocking the beanbag... have you ever tried it? I've never used one on a skiff but I can promise you that on an offshore boat it's the best seat in the house, especially since they usually get set near the stern. Storage would be my only hang-up on a skiff. I would be very surprised if it wasn't as comfortable as it gets as far as seating goes.



Yes I am going to get two of the floating beanbag chairs for my wife and kids cause my build will have open floorplan.


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## 02edge2wd

Looking good, thanks for sharing your project!


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## dlpanadero

PG350 said:


> Your way works great, but I will say with a good hot glue gun the popsicle and glue method is very fast and they actually dont break off easy. I might try your way when I do my deck and knees though. Looked like it worked for you.
> 
> Boat is looking great.


Probably six one way half a dozen the other.. either way would work just fine


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## dlpanadero

Finsleft258 said:


> Those were obvious... It was a quote from Isaiah.


Ohh I gotcha haha yeah Isaiah 43:2


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## Wasy_

Sweet build man. Thanks for documenting it all. Can't wait to see finished product.


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## dlpanadero

Got the bulkheads/ bench seat glassed in. This was one of the most exhausting and time consuming parts of the whole project. Thing there were 28 strips of fiberglass total to lay up in addition to spreading an epoxy fillet along all seams. Tabbed in with 3 layers of 1708 to the deck, and 2 layers of 1708 to the hull sides


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## Zika

Making some serious headway. Nice work.


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## PG350

Are you using epoxy or poly or both? Are you going to gel coat over epoxy? 

Also, looking great man.


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## dlpanadero

PG350 said:


> Are you using epoxy or poly or both? Are you going to gel coat over epoxy?
> 
> Also, looking great man.


Much appreciated  All the really critical repairs (stringers, deck to stringer bond etc) I used epoxy. The cockpit area I'm kind of using a mixture of both (taped the deck seams with 1708 and poly resin but am using an epoxy fairing compound). I used epoxy on the bulkhead tabs just because I had some leftover resin and it really does make for a stronger and better bond.

And yes I am planning on gelcoating over the epoxy fairing compound.. and yes I am a little hesitant to do so haha. But as long as the amine blush is wiped off prior to sanding/prepping it should not affect bonding and I've not had problems with it in the past. I built the entire deck with poly.


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## PG350

dlpanadero said:


> Much appreciated  All the really critical repairs (stringers, deck to stringer bond etc) I used epoxy. The cockpit area I'm kind of using a mixture of both (taped the deck seams with 1708 and poly resin but am using an epoxy fairing compound). I used epoxy on the bulkhead tabs just because I had some leftover resin and it really does make for a stronger and better bond.
> 
> And yes I am planning on gelcoating over the epoxy fairing compound.. and yes I am a little hesitant to do so haha. But as long as the amine blush is wiped off prior to sanding/prepping it should not affect bonding and I've not had problems with it in the past. I built the entire deck with poly.



Nice, I have always been scared to du


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## PG350

It would have been way cheaper for me to use poly but I was scared to use it for fillets as I used it in the past and it cracked on me when I used it as fillets. I used poly on the bottom and gel coated over it. 


I really like the reuse of material you did. those are some shallow running boats and are very stable.


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## dlpanadero

Yeah really prefer to work with epoxy but of course it’s not always economical to do so. I don’t even want to think about all the $ I’ve got in this damn boat in materials tools etc.. not to mention my time


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## PG350

I'm super cheap that's why I build my own boats. I still only have about 2500 in my boat not counting my time. That includes trailer, boat, motor, and supplies. Probably will spend about 400 more.


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## dlpanadero

PG350 said:


> I'm super cheap that's why I build my own boats. I still only have about 2500 in my boat not counting my time. That includes trailer, boat, motor, and supplies. Probably will spend about 400 more.


Wow that’s impressive, wish I could say the same. I’ve been keeping a tab and have already got nearly 5k in materials alone. And that’s with a commercial discount at fgci. I mean that’s including absolutely everything new tools, countless sandpaper disposable PPE etc but still.. a lot of money to rebuild a 16ft skiff. I’ll have about 13k in it total after all’s said and done which is probably about all the boat is worth. Not that I’m planning on selling it but damn it’s been putting my credit card to work.


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## dlpanadero

Pretty odd feeling cutting a huge hole in the new floor you just laid in, but.. gotta have access to the bilge gadgets down below deck.

Wrapped/sealed all edges with epoxy and fiberglass, including the transom drains. Also glued a patch in the aft bulkhead cos it had a big hole in it from the old floor. Will be taping that up with glass tomorrow.

Ive got a raised cover that will go over the access hole. It’ll be on a hinge so I can just flip it open for easy access.


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## PG350

dlpanadero said:


> Wow that’s impressive, wish I could say the same. I’ve been keeping a tab and have already got nearly 5k in materials alone. And that’s with a commercial discount at fgci. I mean that’s including absolutely everything new tools, countless sandpaper disposable PPE etc but still.. a lot of money to rebuild a 16ft skiff. I’ll have about 13k in it total after all’s said and done which is probably about all the boat is worth. Not that I’m planning on selling it but damn it’s been putting my credit card to work.



You definitely have a much more substantial boat than I. Your motor alone is worth a great deal more than my used 25hp 2 stroke. 

That being said, there is nothing better than fishing out of a boat that your hard work has rebuilt. Especially one as nice as yours.


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## dlpanadero

First round of fairing spread. Hopefully it’ll only take two rounds. But I doubt it.


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## dlpanadero




----------



## dlpanadero

Rolled some gelcoat on a test patch of the floor after sanding/fairing a small section. It did not set up properly so had a fun couple hours getting it all off. Fun waste of time.

So anyway instead of gelcoating I’ll be painting with Interlux perfection and their Primekote epoxy primer. Never used a two part polyurethane paint before but hear it is actually much better than gelcoat. (Not the cheap one part enamel like the interlux bright side).


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## dlpanadero

In Europe til April for work, so the project has been on hold for awhile. Heres what a real boat looks like.


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## dlpanadero

All who are fortunate enough to be at home during these crazy times, enjoy the time with your family and friends. I am currently stuck by myself in Spain for the foreseeable future. The country is going into police controlled lockdown tomorrow, no one outside except to the hospital or grocery store. Stay positive, and provide help to those who need it  Don’t be a fucking piece of shit and hoard a bunch of toilet paper or price gouge harbor freight dust masks online. We’re all in this together


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## GaG8tor

Stay safe


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## LowHydrogen

dlpanadero said:


> All who are fortunate enough to be at home during these crazy times, enjoy the time with your family and friends. I am currently stuck by myself in Spain for the foreseeable future. The country is going into police controlled lockdown tomorrow, no one outside except to the hospital or grocery store. Stay positive, and provide help to those who need it  Don’t be a fucking piece of shit and hoard a bunch of toilet paper or price gouge harbor freight dust masks online. We’re all in this together


Damn be safe, keep your head down bro. 

Pro tip, If it gets bad sneak down to a Marina and break into a sailboat. Blowboaters HOARD the shit out of canned goods.


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## Tigweld

Stay safe


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## Monty

dlpanadero said:


> Rolled some gelcoat on a test patch of the floor after sanding/fairing a small section. It did not set up properly so had a fun couple hours getting it all off. Fun waste of time.
> 
> So anyway instead of gelcoating I’ll be painting with Interlux perfection and their Primekote epoxy primer. Never used a two part polyurethane paint before but hear it is actually much better than gelcoat. (Not the cheap one part enamel like the interlux bright side).
> 
> View attachment 109146
> View attachment 109148





dlpanadero said:


> Rolled some gelcoat on a test patch of the floor after sanding/fairing a small section. It did not set up properly so had a fun couple hours getting it all off. Fun waste of time.
> 
> So anyway instead of gelcoating I’ll be painting with Interlux perfection and their Primekote epoxy primer. Never used a two part polyurethane paint before but hear it is actually much better than gelcoat. (Not the cheap one part enamel like the interlux bright side).
> 
> View attachment 109146
> View attachment 109148


I mixed some fiberglass resin on one project and it stayed gummy or seemed OK until the friction of the belt heated it up... I ruined many $3 each sanding belts. That was an extra expense that sucked.


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## Zika

Stay safe. At least you can enjoy Rioja wine, olives and paella!


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## dlpanadero

After 5 months the makeshift boathouse is back open. New dust collector and all. Also decided to go with a newer (2014) 40hp instead of the 2002 60hp.


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## dlpanadero

Console placement









2:1 epoxy fairing compound 









More console 
















Resurfacing motor bolt holes


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## dlpanadero

Nothin to get your palms sweaty like cutting a big old hole in your brand new floor.


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## Austin Rudd

Great decision on the rebuild! nothing like putting your own sweat and blood into something and seeing it run. Also in the process of helping my father in-law rebuild his 85 side console Dolphin.


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## dlpanadero

Austin Rudd said:


> Great decision on the rebuild! nothing like putting your own sweat and blood into something and seeing it run. Also in the process of helping my father in-law rebuild his 85 side console Dolphin.


Awesome!! I really love these boats, especially the older super skiffs. Send some pics if you get a chance, would love to see it


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## dlpanadero

More fairing. Every day, a little bit closer to shooting primer


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## BrownDog

Looking good! Fairing is one of the toughest parts in my mind, a lot of man hours without a lot of visible progress


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## dlpanadero

BrownDog said:


> Looking good! Fairing is one of the toughest parts in my mind, a lot of man hours without a lot of visible progress


Totally agree. Definitely the most difficult part in my opinion skill-wise. I’m certainly not great at it. But it’ll come out ok, especially after knocking down the primer


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## dlpanadero

Primed for success. Or possibly failure. Who knows


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## dlpanadero




----------



## dlpanadero

Got some gel down on the console, hatches and removable parts.

Up next is the deck/gunwales. And then, sanding it all down to prep for polishing, buffing and non skid.


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## dlpanadero

Fresh gelcoat. Up next, non skid.


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## dlpanadero

Taping the non-skid pattern.

























Fine pumice applied on top of a wet layer of gelcoat, then sealed with a final coat of gel w/ wax inhibitor.










Came out beautifully. I will eventually finish sand and compound/polish/buff the base gelcoat, but that will probably be down the road.


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## dlpanadero

Few more pics of the finished paint and non-skid, getting some much needed sunlight. Kind of hard to tell but the gelcoat is actually a very very faint ice blue. I mixed in some blue pigment to pure white, didn’t come out exactly the tone I was expecting but not a big deal.. I’m pleased with it.

On to rigging now


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## matt_baker_designs

Man I love blue tape


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## Zika

Coming together nicely.


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## Sublime

Man, how awesome.


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## dlpanadero

matt_baker_designs said:


> Man I love blue tape


Sure does come in handy


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## dlpanadero

Haven’t really been taking pics/posting the last several weeks but here she is in the water. Could not be happier with the performance. Not much else to say.. put my heart and soul into this rebuild and have been waiting for this day for a long time.


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## jlindsley

Awesome! Looks great!
Out of curiosity, how many hours approx was the total rebuild


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## Backcountry 16

Looks great buddy good work now enjoy it.


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## dlpanadero

jlindsley said:


> Awesome! Looks great!
> Out of curiosity, how many hours approx was the total rebuild


Oh man really could not even begin to say. The project was about 8 months total, so figure over that time on avg maybe a couple hours a day (many 12 hr days, many days where I didn’t work on it at all) and I’m probably looking at well over 500 hrs. But again, really no idea.


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## dlpanadero

Also extremely happy with the draft and overall performance. The foam I added below the waterline probably helps a lot as far as floatation. Great hole shot too.. the 40hp (even with a terrible beat up prop) “lifts” the boat out of the water with virtually no bow rise. And man, the integrated spray rails are great. Ran 20+ miles all over Tampa bay yesterday w me and my brother in the boat, not a single drop of water on either of us all afternoon. Really don't think I could be more pleased with the boat, at least based on what I've seen so far.


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## devrep

new life into a great old girl.


----------

