# Oceanside/Quick Release Anchor Rigs



## GullsGoneWild (Dec 16, 2014)

Can you get away with using a cam cleat and anchor buoy?


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## stripset (May 7, 2012)

GullsGoneWild said:


> Can you get away with using a cam cleat and anchor buoy?


I suppose that is an option i have yet to explore. only concern is how to secure it to the deck outside of a permanent connection


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## Zika (Aug 6, 2015)

This should answer your questions.

http://www.saltwatersportsman.com/quick-release-anchoring-methods


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## GullsGoneWild (Dec 16, 2014)

I see the cam cleats used the most when attached to the casting platform.


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## MariettaMike (Jun 14, 2012)

GullsGoneWild said:


> Can you get away with using a cam cleat and anchor buoy?


I saw those on a skiff a few weeks ago, so I know you wouldn't be the first. I'm guessing they ran their anchor line through the bow eye and then through the cam cleats that were located at the front corners of the cockpit. That would make getting to the tag line convenient, while keeping the cleats off the bow so they don't pose a tripping hazard or fly line snag.

I'm going to add a snap shackle and a dock bungee to my set-up this year. Hopefully using the bungee reduces the number of waves coming over the bow and the times the anchor jerks loose.

http://www.westmarine.com/buy/ronstan--fixed-bail-snap-shackles--P002_060_001_501
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/greenfield-products--dock-buddies--P005_151_002_510


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## MariettaMike (Jun 14, 2012)

GullsGoneWild said:


> I see the cam cleats used the most when attached to the casting platform.


Are you talking about these?
http://www.westmarine.com/buy/schaefer--fast-entry-cam-cleats--P006725576

or the ones East Cape uses to hold down casting platforms?


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## stripset (May 7, 2012)

What length main line do you all like to run? I have heard from 40'-60'


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## GullsGoneWild (Dec 16, 2014)

MariettaMike said:


> Are you talking about these?
> http://www.westmarine.com/buy/schaefer--fast-entry-cam-cleats--P006725576
> 
> or the ones East Cape uses to hold down casting platforms?


Yes, those are the cam cleats in the West marine link. I think the you are thinking of the turnbuckle receiver for casting platforms on the deck. I fish with one guide and he had a cam cleat on the front of his casting platform. He did not run his anchor line thru the bow eye, just straight from the water to the cam cleat.


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## GullsGoneWild (Dec 16, 2014)




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## MariettaMike (Jun 14, 2012)

GullsGoneWild said:


>


I would be concerned about ripping the casting platform off the deck on the 15-20+ mph wind days when you aren't standing on it to help hold it down.

Played around with the snap shackle rigging last night and that thing is harder to pull loose than just grabbing the snap hook and unhooking it with one hand. I'll see how it works on the water Saturday.


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## GullsGoneWild (Dec 16, 2014)

Greg Dini is the guide I fish with. He had the cam cleat on his vantage but not on his new evo. I didn't even think to ask why he didn't put one on his evo. I just texted Greg to get his thoughts. I would think the cam cleat should only be used when the CP is mounted to the cap with screws. I think you are right in your concerns about using the cam on a turnbuckle mounted CP.

Ive seen the quick release shackles on tv but never in person. On silver king episode "north bounder" Bou's client detached the anchor shackle with a string. For lack of better words, he fixed a string to one end of the shackle and all he had to do to release the anchor was pull on the string. Here's the full vid, start watching at the 14 minute mark.


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## Capt. Eli Whidden (Jun 7, 2012)

Attach a thin piece of rope 3' long to the snap shackle. I use lawn mower pull cord. On the end, a bobber works well. This way if you loose the cord over board it still floats.


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

I used to know a knot that you could tie to accomplish a quick release. But I forgot how to tie it


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

Wow, you guys are over thinking this, which means no confidence. Forget all that hardware! Just more junk to deal with.

I'm assuming we are talking throwing anchor lines for poon fishing on the flats or on the beaches and not necessarily for bridge/pass fishing in bigger bay boats and cc boats (this is a microskiff board, right? Ha!).

So with a flats/ technical poling skiffs, I like my anchor line to be a good quality braided thin line/cord, not some heavy clunky boat anchor rope that Carnival cruise ships uses! Ha!. I'll even have a completely different anchor without all the heavy chain and clunky anchor you normally keep (and keep the other one back on shore). If you must have a chain, then smaller diameter, shorter piece of stainless steel chain. So a good quality, stealthy colored, tight braided 3/8" braided rope. Know how deep you will generally fish (normally shallow) and carry just enough rope to accommodate that. (possibly up to 40-60ft). For me, it's a 50ft piece of rope tied right to the anchor with a loop spliced in with a thimble on the splice on the anchor side of the rope.

Of course, buy an anchor buoy that will will work and can be easily stowed. A volleyball size to one of those buoy bobber looking buoy (shown in one of the above replies) will work on a thinner rope. You can keep it all nice and neat in a bucket, or store the in one of your hatches. Btw, this anchor/rope I'll use for a 2nd or spare anchor just "in-case."









Anyway, heck, a sealed 1 gal milk jug will work and I've used that in a pinch! Ha!

Use a loop knot like a bowline loop knot to secure the buoy to the end of your rope. Go out and set your anchor where you want it . Once your anchor is set tie in a loop knot (a half hitch loop or dbl surgeons will work) with the loop being at least 6in to 1ft long loop. Take the loop, pinch it together and pass it thru the eye of your most forward bow cleat and hook the end over the forward end of the cleat (so just one side of the cleat). There, the boat will stay. The buoy should go overboard at that point. If there is any remaining rope, neatly bundle it up and do several half hitches around it to secure it and tie it about 2-3ft from your cleat loop knot, but before the buoy. Then toss that over as well. So at this point, nothing is on the deck except for the loop knot that is over the forward end of the bow cleat.

Once you hook up, quickly push/slide the loop up over the front side of the cleat with your foot. It should pull thru the eye of the cleat on it's own. If not, then give it a good tug. Depending on conditions, you might need to pull slightly on the rope to relieve tension to slide the loop over the front part of the bow cleat. But that's it! Then go chase your fish.

If you feel you need all this shock absorption system built into your anchor system, then you're probably fishing in too rough of water anyways for a microskiff. We use something like that in big bay boats fishing bridges and passes in deep rough water. But in my experience, it's unnecessary in TPS on shallower flats and beaches where it's calm enough to fly fish or use light tackle spinning. Otherwise, you prolly should be out there in rougher conditions.

Out in the Keys on ocean side, especially on the Gulf/Florida Bay side, I would mark your anchor point on your GPS just in case you get turn around and the fish drags you a good ways and you can't find your buoy. Also, I'd write your name on your buoy so somebody doesn't "accidentally" pick it up.

When you return to your anchor buoy, pick up the buoy, find the loop and re-attach it to your cleat in the same manor and your back fishing again.

Btw, it would be safe to say I've been using this method for over 22yrs and haven't seen any real problems with it.

Good luck! 

Ted Haas


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## MariettaMike (Jun 14, 2012)

GullsGoneWild said:


> Ive seen the quick release shackles on tv but never in person. On silver king episode "north bounder" Bou's client detached the anchor shackle with a string. For lack of better words, he fixed a string to one end of the shackle and all he had to do to release the anchor was pull on the string. Here's the full vid, start watching at the 14 minute mark.


That's what I've got, but you would need a snorkel to hook that sucker to the bow eye of my Super Skiff like he did on many ocean side days. And there has to be tension on the shackle to hold it still when you pull on the release pin.

Been doing the loop knot thing for years, and having the cleat in the cockpit saves from swamping the boat, but I think the higher angle makes the swamping worse.

So now I'm going to try leaving a short rope from the bow that reaches the cockpit, and snap shackle the anchor to a loop in the end of the short rope.


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## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

I've been using a release float for years and years on my skiff. It's not the simple lightweight setup that I've seen on Silver Kings (have to ask Rob about that the next time I see him at the ramp....). Instead I have a quick folding small grapnel (mostly for river fishing) as a second anchor with about six feet of chain (ocean side I'd want my standard anchor with fifty feet of line). I set it up with the same line I use for boat launching - 25' with a generous snap at one end and a loop on the other end. Instead of using the loop to secure the line to my bow cleat I just tie off with a few turns to the cleat leaving around a foot of line to hang overboard - the loop end. My anchor ball (basketball sized as noted by Backwater -it has a short tether with a snap used to attach to the loop on the anchor line.... In use I just un-cleat that line and drop overboard where the ball is ready to float the rig and be ready to retrieve...

A few words of caution about that anchor ball - make it big enough to be seen at a distance and not so small that a hard current can pull it under (another of those "ask me how I know moments"). Yes, in some neighborhoods a so and so might steal it while you're off fighting a fish so make a point of clearly marking that buoy with your FL numbers in more than one place.....


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## CaptainRob (Mar 11, 2007)

I started using the quick release system about 2 years ago and its very simple once you have the rig built. I used a method/recipe from Snookdaddy, so hopefully he will chime in and give the steps. 

This system incorporates a short piece of bungee cord between your anchor line and your bow cleat or eye and you would be amazed at how this dampens the chop/pull on the bow. For me, the hardest part of setting up the system was finding the correct quick release clip.


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## MSG (Jan 11, 2010)

I am about to build one of these Rigs and would appreciate any information specifically regarding how to attach the bungee to the line, and what type of bungee should be used. Thanks so much.


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## brianacnp (May 18, 2011)

I have been using This setup for a couple years now and I have found it simple and effective. Fortress aluminum anchor with PVC coated chain (protects from damaging deck of my skiff), whatever length of rope you desire/need depending on the depth of water, place Shockles Line Snubber between the anchor and the cleat (close to cleat but off the deck). Place loop knot to attach to my cleat on the boat (large enough to quickly release and about 6 feet past my loop knot attach your bouy (like the pic Ted showed earlier and toss off the side) After you hook up and ready to chase fish. Release from cleat and throw it into the water. I like this bungee to dampen line shock and It has metal clips I can easily attach to rope at any point I want.


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## Capt. Eli Whidden (Jun 7, 2012)

Here's another option that I use on my 16' waterman. May have to adjust for a heavier skiff. 5' of chain, 15' of main line, 5' of bungee. Before this, I used a similar system but without the bungee. A lot of Keys guys are using a blue main line.


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## Blue Zone (Oct 22, 2011)

If anyone is considering using a cam cleat for quick release, it would idea to use one with an eye in front to avoid accidental release in rough water. Also a jam cleat which has no moving parts and is less obtrusive could work in some cases.


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## TXSkiff (Jan 5, 2016)

GullsGoneWild said:


> Greg Dini is the guide I fish with. He had the cam cleat on his vantage but not on his new evo. I didn't even think to ask why he didn't put one on his evo. I just texted Greg to get his thoughts. I would think the cam cleat should only be used when the CP is mounted to the cap with screws. I think you are right in your concerns about using the cam on a turnbuckle mounted CP.
> 
> Ive seen the quick release shackles on tv but never in person. On silver king episode "north bounder" Bou's client detached the anchor shackle with a string. For lack of better words, he fixed a string to one end of the shackle and all he had to do to release the anchor was pull on the string. Here's the full vid, start watching at the 14 minute mark.


Thanks for posting that video. Thanks to you I now have Tarpon Fever. Almost got the wife on board with selling everything and moving to Islamorada.


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## lemaymiami (Feb 9, 2007)

My anglers jumped two big fish in a river yesterday - but not on fly.... Each one only jumped once or twice, saving their energy while taking us to school...


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## stripset (May 7, 2012)

Capt. Eli Whidden said:


> Here's another option that I use on my 16' waterman. May have to adjust for a heavier skiff. 5' of chain, 15' of main line, 5' of bungee. Before this, I used a similar system but without the bungee. A lot of Keys guys are using a blue main line.


Eli, Are you using only 15' of main line on the oceanside flats?


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## Capt. Eli Whidden (Jun 7, 2012)

stripset said:


> Eli, Are you using only 15' of main line on the oceanside flats?


Yep, it works fine no matter the bottom composition unless the winds are greater than 20kts. Like this past Sunday..... Granted, my skiff is light and thankfully still in one piece.


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## paint it black (Nov 3, 2007)

I use a small anchor that I bought at Walmart. It's a kit that comes with anchor, rope, buoy, and a spring loaded hook. I just hook it to my front cleat once anchored. It has a buoy attached to the hook end for the quick release. It comes in a handy stowaway bag, I keep it in my front hatch. It was somewhere around $30 for the whole setup.


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## stripset (May 7, 2012)

So here is the final result/recipe.


None Swiveling Snap Shackle. 

6' 3/16" from pin to small float.

6' 3/8" Shock Chord, Secured to main line & snap shackle with 4 Hog Rings each side.

35' 3/8" main line to 4' Chain & anchor. 

Total cost, less the anchor $45.00

Thanks for all of the help!
.


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## Bonecracker (Mar 29, 2007)

What's the thought on the blue main line?? Less spooky to the fish!!


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## RABillstein (Jan 10, 2019)

Reviving an old thread. I read newer ones on the same topic, but this just has the most complete explanations, so it makes sense to bring this to the top.

I'm trying to come up with the best way to do a quick release for my boat. I plan to anchor to the bow eye, and include a bungee in the system. What I see with all of the systems I've looked up, is everyone is using a fixed length of anchor line, and tying off to the end of it. I rather not be stuck with 40 ft of line out to the anchor, if I'm only in 10 feet of water, and so on. 

I've brainstormed some ideas of my own, but curious to hear others input. Does anyone have a system that allows adjustable length, while still keeping the system simple and slick, without excess line in the way on the deck, or excess line drifting in the water?

Is there an advantage to just sticking with a fixed length? If so, what length?


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Capt. Eli Whidden said:


> Here's another option that I use on my 16' waterman. May have to adjust for a heavier skiff. 5' of chain, 15' of main line, 5' of bungee. Before this, I used a similar system but without the bungee. A lot of Keys guys are using a blue main line.


This is the way I do it. With one exception.

I attach the quick release shackle to the bow cleat ant tie a loop in the end of the eye and clip it in the shackle.


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## RABillstein (Jan 10, 2019)

@DuckNut I appreciate the pictures. I too, had taken inspiration from Capt Eli's earlier post. Are you satisfied with the 25' fixed length? Or have you found a way to cleanly rig it for adjustability?


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

RABillstein said:


> @DuckNut I appreciate the pictures. I too, had taken inspiration from Capt Eli's earlier post. Are you satisfied with the 25' fixed length? Or have you found a way to cleanly rig it for adjustability?


I think my rode is longer than 25 but if I want it shorter I just tie a loop knot and clip it in the shackle. Then either put the extra on the bow or drop it overboard. I also just run the rode through the hole in the buoy so it slides, the knot at the end will prevent it from coming off and it will always be just off the bow on the water.


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## Gatorgrizz27 (Apr 4, 2015)

RABillstein said:


> Reviving an old thread. I read newer ones on the same topic, but this just has the most complete explanations, so it makes sense to bring this to the top.
> 
> I'm trying to come up with the best way to do a quick release for my boat. I plan to anchor to the bow eye, and include a bungee in the system. What I see with all of the systems I've looked up, is everyone is using a fixed length of anchor line, and tying off to the end of it. I rather not be stuck with 40 ft of line out to the anchor, if I'm only in 10 feet of water, and so on.
> 
> ...


It doesn’t solve the “excess line” part of your issue, but I really like these Danik hooks. You just squeeze the lever to let the amount of line out you want and it’s self-locking. Connect your bungee to the clip with a quick release panic snap on the other end to the bow eye, with a float.

https://www.amazon.com/Danik-Hook-S...d=1&keywords=Danik+hook&qid=1585829259&sr=8-3

You could use one of those river rescue throw bags to keep the anchor line in and just let it hang/float right in the water.


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## RABillstein (Jan 10, 2019)

@Gatorgrizz27 I like the idea of the throw bag. Best solution I have heard so far.


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## Gatorgrizz27 (Apr 4, 2015)

RABillstein said:


> @Gatorgrizz27 I like the idea of the throw bag. Best solution I have heard so far.


I actually just realized it doesn’t even need to be a throw bag, as you don’t need the rope to pass through the bottom. A water bottle holder with a mesh bottom would work fine. 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J7SZII4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1NUXHOSG6J8RL&th=1

Going to steal my own idea for my bow line storage.


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## Snookdaddy (Jan 5, 2008)

10' of bungee is the key to avoid the snatching effect. Bill Bishop's book "High Rollers" has an illustration of the set up I use. Let me know if you want me to take a photo.



MariettaMike said:


> I saw those on a skiff a few weeks ago, so I know you wouldn't be the first. I'm guessing they ran their anchor line through the bow eye and then through the cam cleats that were located at the front corners of the cockpit. That would make getting to the tag line convenient, while keeping the cleats off the bow so they don't pose a tripping hazard or fly line snag.
> 
> I'm going to add a snap shackle and a dock bungee to my set-up this year. Hopefully using the bungee reduces the number of waves coming over the bow and the times the anchor jerks loose.
> 
> ...


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## Snookdaddy (Jan 5, 2008)

stripset said:


> What length main line do you all like to run? I have heard from 40'-60'


25' to 30' max is what I use. Also a "sea claw" type anchor is the best at holding. No anchor chain required.


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## Snookdaddy (Jan 5, 2008)

*Here's the info I posted a couple of years ago:*

You'll need the following for a good tarpon set up:

1) Aluminum #12 SeaClaw anchor. Weighs 7lbs and will hold any boat up to 20'. Buy it here: http://www.seaclawanchors.com/products.html

1) S.S. Snap Shackle - buy it here: http://www.marinepartdepot.com/newststsweye.html with free shipping..

1) S.S. or brass "O Ring" - buy it here: http://www.marinepartdepot.com/newststori22.html with free shipping..

1) Small crab trap ball or similar.

* 10' 3/8" Bungee - You can get this at most Hardware Stores.

* 15' or 20' 3/8" Dock Line or Anchor Line. Blue Dock lines are less visible to the fish.

* 2' - 3' 1/8 or 3/16" Nylon Cord. (Lawn mower "pull" line works fine). 

Tie one end of dock/anchor line to anchor and the other end to the "O ring". 

Tie one end of 3/8" bungee to the "o ring"... Thread the bungee through the crab trap ball then tie to the snap shackle on the non-opening side of the shackle. 

Tie the 2' of 1/8" nylon cord to the release mechanism on the snap shackle and make a "pull" loop on the other end or add a wooden ball or cork ball.

Snap the shackle on your bow eye and lay the rip cord on the deck of your skiff. Pull the rip cord when you need to free the skiff from the anchor.. The crab ball will keep your anchor line floating for retrieval.

Note: Paint the crab ball something other than white, so you don't lose it if there are a ton of traps in the area. Safety Orange works well. I would write my name and phone number on the ball in case you lose your anchor somehow..

*This basically the same set up as some of the photos in the previous posts, but No need for chain if you're using the SeaClaw anchor.*


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## DeepSouthFly (Sep 7, 2016)

I use Taco marine fender snaps and love them.


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## DeepSouthFly (Sep 7, 2016)

I have one on both sides of the boat up towards the front of the gunnel. If it is really rough I just use the cleat on the bow.


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## LowHydrogen (Dec 31, 2015)

RABillstein said:


> Reviving an old thread. I read newer ones on the same topic, but this just has the most complete explanations, so it makes sense to bring this to the top.
> 
> I'm trying to come up with the best way to do a quick release for my boat. I plan to anchor to the bow eye, and include a bungee in the system. What I see with all of the systems I've looked up, is everyone is using a fixed length of anchor line, and tying off to the end of it. I rather not be stuck with 40 ft of line out to the anchor, if I'm only in 10 feet of water, and so on.
> 
> ...


Not sure where you fish or how rough it gets. I stay out too long, and don't give up when I should. If you go in when it's 2' off the beach then you may not need to go to extreme lengths.

Longer rope = less bucking when the waves get up, less bucking = less likelihood of dipping the bow.

I use, from the bottom -Alum fortress danforth - 6' coated anchor chain - about 30' of anchor line with buoy slipped over, 10' of doubled shock cord with eyes spliced in, quick release snap shackle.

Not only the length of the line but the catenary curve being removed as the boat rides a wave will make it MUCH easier to stand and cast. Just my $.02


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

Gatorgrizz27 said:


> It doesn’t solve the “excess line” part of your issue, but I really like these Danik hooks. You just squeeze the lever to let the amount of line out you want and it’s self-locking. Connect your bungee to the clip with a quick release panic snap on the other end to the bow eye, with a float.
> 
> https://www.amazon.com/Danik-Hook-S...d=1&keywords=Danik+hook&qid=1585829259&sr=8-3
> 
> You could use one of those river rescue throw bags to keep the anchor line in and just let it hang/float right in the water.


You just have more metal to metal hardware clanking around. No thanks! Any clanking or banging around the hull will spook the fish and all that work will be for not.

With my system, if you need to pull in or let out more scope without re-setting the anchor (not sure why you'd want to do that in the 1st place), then just throw in a half hitch loop at that point, which takes just about as much time to tie in, as you pulling in rope through that clip. Then wrap up the excess, throw a few half hitches over that and toss it overboard. There you still have a clean deck and when you hook up, you just push the loop off with your feet and you're off to the races.

So 3 ingredients, anchor, rope and buoy. That's it! It doesn't need to be complicated on a TPS.


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## Wbyman (Apr 2, 2020)

Nice


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## Zika (Aug 6, 2015)

My set-up is fairly simple and quiet. I started with a 25-foot double braid dock line (tan and white) with eye splice in one end. About four feet from eye splice I have a bullet float above a mooring snubber to absorb waves. Tag end is tied to a short section of stainless steel chain (about 2 feet) with a screw-pin stainless shackle attached to the aluminum Guardian anchor. The anchor holds very well in the sand/ 6 feet or less I normally fish. The eye splice slips through the pop-up bow cleat and that is quickly removed and tossed when chasing a fish. I used the same set-up when guiding but now I don't need quite as long of line due to lower freeboard of the Mosquito.


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