# Trailer Hardware Corrosion



## Frank Ucci (Jan 20, 2019)

I recently removed the carpeted bunks on my trailer in order to do some gel coat
repair on the bottom of my hull. Although the trailer is only 11 months old, I found
significant corrosion (shrinkage) on the aluminum brackets which are lag-bolted
onto the bottom of the treated wooden bunks.

At first I attributed this corrosion to the fact that the brackets were in contact with
the bunk carpeting, which would subject the brackets to a nearly constant salt bath.
Even with that in mind, I thought the level of corrosion was particularly harsh for an
aluminum bracket. Then I remembered reading about the corrosive properties of the chemicals (which replaced the old CCA) found in treated lumber.


I attempted to buy stainless steel brackets to replace the corroded aluminum but found that they were unavailable at any of the local trailer supply houses. Not wanting to have to replace these brackets every year or so, I decided to try to modify the brackets and the way they were attached to the wooden bunks.


With the firm belief that anything worth doing is worth obsessing about, I began the quest for the perfect solution to this problem. My first step was to dip the brackets in hot wax so that they had a coating that would isolate them from the salt and chemicals on the bunks. . I also decided to cut the carpeting back from where the bracket was attached to the lumber in order to eliminate the constant contact between the carpet and the bracket. Then, I went one step further and used a 1/8” PVC spacer between the bracket and the wooden bunk.


In case any of you still give a shi… I’ve attached some photos of the corroded bracket, a new bracket, the cut away carpet, and the PVC spacer. Whether any of this makes any difference, I’ll let you know some time next year. In the mean time, you might want to pay attention to your bunk brackets. This is a popular brand of trailer and I’m sure any trailer with a bunk made of treated lumber is likely to have a similar problem.


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## MariettaMike (Jun 14, 2012)

Excellent report. Looks like you’ve worked in the nuclear industry.

I’m going to try replacing my wood bunk boards with composite deck boards with polymer on top when the time comes.


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## Frank Ucci (Jan 20, 2019)

The composite boards sound like the perfect solution. Do they have enough stiffness between the trailer cross-members to hold the weight of the boat?


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## Drifter (Dec 13, 2018)

With the firm belief that anything worth doing is worth obsessing about, I began the quest for the perfect solution to this problem.

What a breath of fresh air. Almost suffocated in the coronavirus thread. I think the PVC spacer is going to be the most beneficial component here.


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## bcblues (Apr 10, 2018)

Maybe squirt some Dicor non sag in before you screw them back on to help isolate the wood from the screws?


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Dissimilar metal corrosion, copper in the treated wood. Separating the two will be all it needs but go a step further and buy some TefGel and put some on each bolt head before tightening.


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## topnative2 (Feb 22, 2009)

Great fix.

Just a thought, are your lags stainless if so are they 316.....are the supports anodized aluminum
I know they have changed deck screws etc....by dipping them in some kind of coating because of the new and not improved PT

I better go look at mine geez............always somethin'


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

https://www.amazon.com/Tef-Gel-TG-02-Anti-seize-Anyi-gull-Lubricant/dp/B00CEF65T4


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## topnative2 (Feb 22, 2009)

the conspiracy is real...

ACQ and *Aluminum* Don't Mix. As the industry phases out *wood pressure*-*treated* with chromated copper arsenate (CCA), keep in mind that the high level of copper in the alternatives *reacts with aluminum*, causing corrosion. ... *Aluminum* never has been recommended for use with CCA


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

topnative2 said:


> the conspiracy is real...
> 
> ACQ and *Aluminum* Don't Mix. As the industry phases out *wood pressure*-*treated* with chromated copper arsenate (CCA), keep in mind that the high level of copper in the alternatives *reacts with aluminum*, causing corrosion. ... *Aluminum* never has been recommended for use with CCA


I try not to post lies brother, usually first hand experience. The copper in the treated wood has been an issue a long time, especially guys with aluminum hulls and carpeted bunks over treated wood. It leaches through the carpet and will cause the aluminum to look like swiss cheese in no time.
I have been using TefGel on boats, trucks and anything that has dissimilar metals or galling fasteners (stainless on stainless) for about 7-8 years. It’s good stuff, the Australian sailers came up with it for use on their sailboat rigging so it’s got roots in the marine industry. My guide buddy gets a new boat about every 2-3 years and he has used it on every fastener of the build and there is absolutely no corrosion even on the stainless fasteners in the aluminum work where you usually get it the worst. He has powdercoated everything and you know how corrosion likes to get under it and bubble. It has not at all since the use of TefGel. I use it on my truck, trailer, guns, everything. That 2oz container goes a long way. I even take LED light bars, speakers etc apart and put it on each stainless fastener and they will never corrode. My whole boat and trailer has it on every fastener.


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## Frank Ucci (Jan 20, 2019)

FWIW the stainless lag bolts are holding up well.


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## topnative2 (Feb 22, 2009)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> I try not to post lies brother, usually first hand experience. The copper in the treated wood has been an issue a long time, especially guys with aluminum hulls and carpeted bunks over treated wood. It leaches through the carpet and will cause the aluminum to look like swiss cheese in no time.
> I have been using TefGel on boats, trucks and anything that has dissimilar metals or galling fasteners (stainless on stainless) for about 7-8 years. It’s good stuff, the Australian sailers came up with it for use on their sailboat rigging so it’s got roots in the marine industry. My guide buddy gets a new boat about every 2-3 years and he has used it on every fastener of the build and there is absolutely no corrosion even on the stainless fasteners in the aluminum work where you usually get it the worst. He has powdercoated everything and you know how corrosion likes to get under it and bubble. It has not at all since the use of TefGel. I use it on my truck, trailer, guns, everything. That 2oz container goes a long way. I even take LED light bars, speakers etc apart and put it on each stainless fastener and they will never corrode. My whole boat and trailer has it on every fastener.


Hey Bubba, I have no idea what you are talking about,,regarding lies??????????????????? . If your alluding to my previous post,simply pasting a response from a google inquiry on the issue.....definitely not disagreeing w/ the solution or calling anyone a liar.If you would like to elaborate, I would appreciate it.
I saved your link last night for future use and a thank you for that because the stuff was not on my radar.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

topnative2 said:


> Hey Bubba, I have no idea what you are talking about,,regarding lies??????????????????? . If your alluding to my previous post,simply pasting a response from a google inquiry on the issue.....definitely not disagreeing w/ the solution or calling anyone a liar.If you would like to elaborate, I would appreciate it.
> I saved your link last night for future use and a thank you for that because the stuff was not on my radar.


Text lacks voice inflection, easy to read it wrong. I was not implying you were calling me a liar, just stating that if I post something (especially about boats/fishing) it’s usually from my firsthand experience. You would not believe how many people call and message me with issues, I tell them how to or what I would do to fix it and they don’t listen. Some do. 
I learned about dissimilar metal corrosion years ago when I was in the hurricane protection business building and installing shutters and panels. We had hell with stainless fasteners and cast aluminum/mill run and painted aluminum corrosion being that the shutters were usually close to sea air. Nylon bushings and grease were all we knew to use. I wish we had TefGel then, it would have saved a lot of call backs.


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## Finsleft258 (Oct 7, 2018)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> I try not to post lies brother, usually first hand experience. The copper in the treated wood has been an issue a long time, especially guys with aluminum hulls and carpeted bunks over treated wood. It leaches through the carpet and will cause the aluminum to look like swiss cheese in no time.
> I have been using TefGel on boats, trucks and anything that has dissimilar metals or galling fasteners (stainless on stainless) for about 7-8 years. It’s good stuff, the Australian sailers came up with it for use on their sailboat rigging so it’s got roots in the marine industry. My guide buddy gets a new boat about every 2-3 years and he has used it on every fastener of the build and there is absolutely no corrosion even on the stainless fasteners in the aluminum work where you usually get it the worst. He has powdercoated everything and you know how corrosion likes to get under it and bubble. It has not at all since the use of TefGel. I use it on my truck, trailer, guns, everything. That 2oz container goes a long way. I even take LED light bars, speakers etc apart and put it on each stainless fastener and they will never corrode. My whole boat and trailer has it on every fastener.


Tef-Gel is from, patented, and produced in Florida by Ultra Safety Systems. The Air Force has had it in their approved products list since 2004.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Finsleft258 said:


> Tef-Gel is from, patented, and produced in Florida by Ultra Safety Systems. The Air Force has had it in their approved products list since 2004.


When I bought my first tube it was only available from Australia and that is where I ordered it from. The second tub was from Amazon and not the same product. Does it really matter? It works, thanks for the info, good to know.


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## State fish rob (Jan 25, 2017)

Toilet bowl wax makes a great wood grease. I stick several in ring ,preloaded so to speak. You’ll be surprised if you try it.


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## State fish rob (Jan 25, 2017)

Wood treatment plant called “ kopper’s” years ago. Ruined well water in most of that end of wake county nc. ( so I’ve read) Wonder if all the new comers to Apex & Cary were even told ? If it will do that to a bolt , imagine what it is doing to your insides


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## CKEAT (Aug 26, 2015)

I use yamalube inhibitor, seems to work good and doesn’t leave nasty film all over everything. spray it on all locations that could even think about holding saltwater. Great under cowling. Work perfect on jack plates and all fittings too.


Use tef gel on bolts and washers. 

Yamaha ACC-SLCNS-PR-AY Silicone... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M31ENPF?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


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## scrapiron (Jun 13, 2020)

Bringing this back to the top...

I've got one bunk that is toast (out of four) on my Ram-lin Aluminum trailer, so thought I'd do them all. Going with carpeted bunks and wood. So I bought some 2x6 PT wood at Home Depot and now wondering if that was wise. The brackets and lags look to be galvanized, not stainless. Or I'm totally wrong. trailer is 6.5 years old (was stored outside with no boat on it for 3 years).

1. Should I place something between the bracket and wood?
2. Do I need to use glue for the carpet before I staple?
3. Do I wait for the wood to dry out before I carpet/bot?

Also picked up 1/2" stainless Arrow staples. Should I go with Monel?


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## Frank Ucci (Jan 20, 2019)

1) I would (did). You're going to need stainless lag bolts as well. The galvanized lag bolts will not last in the PT wood.
2) No need.
3) No, PT wood won't dry out for 6 months.


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## scrapiron (Jun 13, 2020)

1) What about some barrier tape or whatnot.. would that last? Good call on the lag bolts.. the current ones look okay, but some of the brackets are showing corrosion. I'll just get stainless lags/washers.

2) The carpet people (Cuda) recommend both gluing and stapling down the carpet to the bunk board using Roberts 6700 adhesive. Wouldn't that help with the carpet not moving loading/unloading? Or am I overthinking it?

Thanks!


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## Frank Ucci (Jan 20, 2019)

I've never glued, always stapled, with no problems. If the carpet people recommend it, I'd go with their recommendation although I can't imagine any adhesive adhering worth a damn on PT lumber. Are they assuming that you're using cypress lumber for bunks?


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## Half Shell (Jul 19, 2016)

scrapiron said:


> Bringing this back to the top...
> 
> Also picked up 1/2" stainless Arrow staples. Should I go with Monel?


Monel is better.


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## scrapiron (Jun 13, 2020)

Good question on whether they know if I'm using PT.. I think I'm going to bypass the glue. I'll check tonight to see if the current ones are glued from Ram-lin. If not, then I'll feel very confident not using glue as the carpet looks great. It's the board(s) that need replacing. 

The interwebz says no Monel staples with PT wood. Also the package says it as well (n.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

I did not read all the replies but it’s dissimilar metal corrosion that eats aluminum that is touching the copper based treatment in the wood. If you use stainless hardware with aluminum bunk brackets slather the stanless bolt with TefGel before installing it and get the back of the washer too.


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## scrapiron (Jun 13, 2020)

Crap, this is neverending!! LOL. So Tef-gel for the stainless steel lag bolts I need to use so the PT wood doesn't corrode them OR the aluminum brackets (which I need a spacer for). Would the current lag bolts be aluminium or galvanized? I gotta think galvanized..... my head hurts.

I should have just used non PT wood.


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## Rich11111 (Jun 6, 2018)

I recently recarpeted my Ramlin trailer bunks due to sticking carpet on dry launching. The removed staples were in good condition and Ramlin said they use stainless staples and have been getting good results. I had looked up monel staples in PT wood and it was DON'T DO per google search. I've considered using nonPT wood in the future but the wood does show that it does get wet on my dry launch trailer so when it comes time to replace the wood it will be PT. The wood looks to be PT so if Ramlin with their years of know how feel it is necessary I will continue with it


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## scrapiron (Jun 13, 2020)

Rich111-Was your carpet glued?


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## Rich11111 (Jun 6, 2018)

No. Just a bunch of SS staples. You do have to put the best stretch you can to the carpet as you staple it down. The internet said every 2 to 3 inches with the staples. If you wish I can look for the youtube video that was helpful to the cuts at the carpet ends. I am very pleased with the results.


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## scrapiron (Jun 13, 2020)

Awesome, thanks! That would be great. Some videos said don’t cut the carpet at all at the ends- just fold it/staple it. Cuts expose wood and are a place for it to begin to rip. At this point I have no idea.

I’ll go out to my trailer tomorrow to see what Ram-lin did- it’s held up well.


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## Rich11111 (Jun 6, 2018)

You want the wood on the undersurface to be left open to air so as to allow water to be able to get out if carpet gets wet. If you leave the wood totally wrapped with carpet the water would be locked between the wood and carpet


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## Rich11111 (Jun 6, 2018)

When you start to work on the ends do the end furthest from the water in case you do a wrong cut of the carpet. You will learn and get confidence on the less critical end..... I'm glad I did  3 of my carpet cuts and folding looks like this guys. The other 1 was the learning miscut but totally usable since it was on the end closes to the bow not stern end.


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## scrapiron (Jun 13, 2020)

Thanks- seems easy enough. Only so many ways for me to screw it up. Haha


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## Rich11111 (Jun 6, 2018)

scrapiron said:


> I’ll go out to my trailer tomorrow to see what Ram-lin did- it’s held up well.


That's what I did but the folding is confusing but the video I posted clarified the process. You will see how many staples Ramlin used. The staples are 1/2 inch. I used a hammer to each staple to make sure they were all the way in. I dont have an air stapler but the arrow hand held manual one


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## Rich11111 (Jun 6, 2018)

It is so ridiculously easy you'll do good and it will look professional. What I did with mine was start in the middle outward. Not sure if it make a difference but the important thing is get carpet taunt as you staple down


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