# Gelcoat vs. Paint



## BrownDog (Jun 22, 2019)

As someone who has a painted boat and frequently drags it through oysters, I would go with gelcoat for ease of repair.


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Boatworks Today has a series of three vids I think on this very subject.


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

Here are my thoughts...
I would use paint over gelcoat for your application and here’s why.

with gelcoat, you will still get pin holes that need filled. Then, after the gel cures... you will absolutely have to wetsand and buff to make it shine and look good! So, high build primer is super easy to sand and make your fairing work pristine. Finish primer seals the high build and easily sands with 320/400 grit for top coat. Apply the top coat good and you are done.


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

@JC Designs . Your thoughts on mixing graphite with paint for the bottom surface? I hear people say its great, but I read very little of people doing it or how it is done.


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

Sublime said:


> @JC Designs . Your thoughts on mixing graphite with paint for the bottom surface? I hear people say its great, but I read very little of people doing it or how it is done.


Can’t speak for graphite/paint, just put some graphite/epoxy on the bottom of a “ugh” jet ski😤. I applied 3 coats at 10mils ea then wet sanded and buffed to a shine. Looks great and super easy to touch up scratches.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

I have an epoxy graphite bottom on my build, and my last one. It held up very well. I don't know of anyone who mixed graphite with paint, as the paint is much softer so it won't hold up as well. That said, I think I'd rather go with a few extra layers of glass on the pointy bits.

As far as paint vs gelcoat goes, it depends on the finish you want. If you at a certain price point. I've wasted a lot of time and money on the paint for my skiff and hate the results. My only options are to live with it, or cut and buff the boat hoping I don't burn through. So I'll live with it since I'll be beating her up anyway. Next boat will be gelcoat most likely, so I can beat her up and repair it with ease.


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Sorry , yes I meant epoxy / graphite


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## Vertigo (Jun 3, 2012)

While gelcoat may have fewer steps to apply, don't make the mistake of thinking that the application will be easier or less labor/time consuming. Gelcoat will require a LOT of sanding and buffing and if it's in-expertly applied, it will take double a LOT of sanding and buffing.


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## JohnInTampa (Mar 7, 2021)

^^^^^^ This is the right answer. Gelcoat requires special tools, and its a lot of work. It's not any easier, but the protection will last longer and be superior. On my build, I will be using gelcoat, but not because it is easier, I will be doing it because I want the added durability of having a 20mil layer, it's like having a M&M candy coating on your boat.


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

It used to be said that Gelcoat (poly) would not stick to Epoxy , but that has been disproven with proper preparation.


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## Xcapnjoe (Jun 5, 2013)

JohnInTampa said:


> ^^^^^^ This is the right answer. Gelcoat requires special tools, and its a lot of work. It's not any easier, but the protection will last longer and be superior. On my build, I will be using gelcoat, but not because it is easier, I will be doing it because I want the added durability of having a 20mil layer, it's like having a M&M candy coating on your boat.


*“We choose to go to the moon in this decade and do the other things, not because they are easy, but because they are hard." ~ J.F.K.*


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## SkiffaDeeDooDah (Jan 20, 2020)

I think the hull material being covered makes a difference on whether paint or gelcoat would be the best choice. If it's made with polyester resin, use paint to protect the layup with a good watertight seal. If the hull was made with vinyl ester or epoxy resin, gelcoat can be used since the epoxy based resins provide the watertight barrier. However, if the choice was mine to make, I would not hesitate to go with a high quality paint in either case.


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## VANMflyfishing (Nov 11, 2019)

SkiffaDeeDooDah said:


> I think the hull material being covered makes a difference on whether paint or gelcoat would be the best choice. If it's made with polyester resin, use paint to protect the layup with a good watertight seal. If the hull was made with vinyl ester or epoxy resin, gelcoat can be used since the epoxy based resins provide the watertight barrier. However, if the choice was mine to make, I would not hesitate to go with a high quality paint in either case.


I heard gel coat is more protective against water and bonds best with a poly resin. If the opposite is the case, I might go the paint route.


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## JohnInTampa (Mar 7, 2021)

gelcoat is easier to deal with on poly, it can be done on epoxy but its not as simple, requires some additional prep work. Yes, it provides a better protection when done right and will last 4-5 times as long, that's why you see old boats getting hit with the buffing wheel and looking almost new again.


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## VANMflyfishing (Nov 11, 2019)

JohnInTampa said:


> gelcoat is easier to deal with on poly, it can be done on epoxy but its not as simple, requires some additional prep work. Yes, it provides a better protection when done right and will last 4-5 times as long, that's why you see old boats getting hit with the buffing wheel and looking almost new again.


Makes sense to me. Do you or anyone else have tips on mixing gelcoat to get the right color - Ice Blue? In addition, what is the best brand to go with? I heard Totalboat is a good one.


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## JohnInTampa (Mar 7, 2021)

I would call FGCI and have them mix it for you, they have about unlimited colors available. They mix it like home depot mixes paint.


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## VANMflyfishing (Nov 11, 2019)

JohnInTampa said:


> I would call FGCI and have them mix it for you, they have about unlimited colors available. They mix it like home depot mixes paint.


I was looking at them, but couldn't find any reviews. I'd much prefer a premixed formula as I need a few gallons! Thanks for sharing.


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## JohnInTampa (Mar 7, 2021)

That's where most of the boat builders on the gulf side get their stuff, highly recommended.


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

Hopefully this will help...
Gelcoat is not a sealer or really a protective layer for that matter. It is nothing more than a modified polyester resin with color. It was intended for production run building for efficient turn over of product with minimal post mold finishing required. Gelcoat may offer “some” abrasion resistance over a quality 2k paint but that is about where it ends. Paint doesn’t fade and chalk like gelcoat or at least at near the same rate. Paint is actually a sealer “more so than gelcoat”. Paint is by far the easier rt to go as well as faster! For your hull, you will need around 3 gallons gelcoat to get the coverage needed “about 25lbs”, where a gallon of high build “6-7lbs before sanding”, qt finish primer/sealer 2lbs +/- before sanding, and a qt of top coat 2lbs +/-. If you’ve never applied gelcoat and don’t know the tricks to get it to lay down and flow out, you will probably need double what I previously mentioned as you will end up with orange peel texture so deep you’ll have to start the finish sanding with 180grit to cut it down. If you do get it to lay down, you are still looking at 20+ minimum hrs wet sanding and buffing to get it to look near as good as paint! I like Alexseal paint for my clients, but for my personal skiff I will be using Valspar LIC40 industrial 2k. My local jobber “Macdonald Topline” in Inverness carries it and can mix pretty much any color you want and it is very reasonably priced. Also, for high build I recommend the Matrix MP3 as a good yet cost effective high build. If you decide to go gelcoat let me know and I’ll share some tips with you later, JC


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## JohnInTampa (Mar 7, 2021)

JC is correct on all accounts, coating a molded item is not the same as doing it after the fact. Do your research and make an educated decision.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

Would the middle ground be brushable/rollable gelcoat? It flows out better, but the additives make it a little less durable to my knowledge.


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

firecat1981 said:


> Would the middle ground be brushable/rollable gelcoat? It flows out better, but the additives make it a little less durable to my knowledge.


For some, maybe. But a 50/50 gel/duratec high gloss additive will lay down real nice if you know what you are doing. Still needs wet sanded and buffed to make it pop.


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

Part of the point I am trying to make is the added labor of wet sanding and buffing. To do properly and make look good takes time and practice. I can nearly guarantee that a less experienced person WILL have sand throughs in their freshly applied gelcoat at which point they will also be learning how to patch said gelcoat.


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## VANMflyfishing (Nov 11, 2019)

Makes sense to me. I think paint looks better, but is it as durable against oysters, docks, gravel, sandbars, etc? I don’t want to hit a screw on a dock or pole over oysters in a creek and be down to bare glass. How does paint hold up against that type of stuff?
I’m leaning towards the FCGI gel coat or the alexseal that can be rolled on and doesn’t require tipping.


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## VANMflyfishing (Nov 11, 2019)

I spoke with Alexseal this am and got a list of things needed to get. The only hesitation is they say don't use it below the waterline. I'm trailering 90% of the time, but might leave it in the water for a camping trip week tops. Does anyone have experience leaving Alexseal in the water that long?


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

It’ll be fine for a few days at a time.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Van - you are over thinking it

You will never find any coating that will withstand scraping against a rusty screw head - hence the term "coating"

Graphite/epoxy does an excellent job at allowing the skiff to slide over things like grass and that is why it is almost standard on airboats. It also provides some protection against oysters. aluminum powder/epoxy adds tremendous abrasion resistance far exceeding graphite/epoxy but will not slide over grass in the same manner. 

I have aluminum on my duck boat and in Lake Toho there are steel fence posts just below the water and after finding one while on plane I do not have a scratch to glass although you can see where it struck the hull. The coating on my boat is 20 years old. Getting a bit beat up now and could use a refresh but I am confident in it and so not in a hurry to do it.


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## VANMflyfishing (Nov 11, 2019)

I wouldn’t say I’m overthinking it. Rather I honestly don’t know the main benefits as I haven’t done this before and want to hear people’s opinions so I can make an educated decision. I’m planning on doing graphite/epoxy for a keel guard and over the poling strakes. Alexseal for the hull and deck with medium soft sand.
Alexseal/paint does look better over time. Alexseal is one of the only paints that I have seen where your can sand/buff for a repair which is important to me. Paint does seal the poly resin that I am using. From chatting with people, high build primer with a graphite guide coat is easier to fair versus fairing compound and sanding gel coat. Paint can be submerged for around a week which is enough for me. Paint is lighter. Gel coat is slightly less expensive but not significantly in the grand scheme. Gel coat fades and requires wet sanding and buffing a few times a year. Gel coat changes properties with UV exposure. Gel coat does have a few millimeters of thickness, but so does the high build which is lighter.
Thanks for the help to everyone that chimes in.


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