# Trailer for J16?



## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

you'll need a trailer about 18 feet long,
something set up for a jon boat.


----------



## rkmurphy (Nov 2, 2008)

So a Jet Ski trailer won't do the job I'm guessing? Could you show me an example of what you're talking about?

I need something CHEAP just to get it from Jax back to Tampa. I can modify it later on when more funds come in.

And why are you such a guru, Brett? Haha you're the most ridiculously helpful guy on here. I think I speak for all of us when I say thank you for all of the knowledge and incite you've provided. [smiley=1-beer-german.gif]


----------



## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

Guru... ;D

All that I know about boats was learned by breaking them,
and having to fix them myself, because I didn't have the cash.
Love being on the water and the boat don't run,
you ask a ton of questions until you get the answer.
The rest is just because I read really, really, fast.
Google provides if you're willing to read through all the trivial BS.


Trailers need to support the transom of the boat,
so the back of the trailer is the back of the boat.
The boat is 16 feet long.
Need at least 2 feet from the front of the boat to the hitch,
to allow for manouvering the trailer around with the tow vehicle.
16+2=18 feet

looks like the B-16W model

http://www.magictilt.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=27&Itemid=48


----------



## rkmurphy (Nov 2, 2008)

Ok fountain of all knowledge (I really am bowing right now)...so...reading between the lines, here's what I got out of it. A jet ski trailer will work fine provided the bunks support all the way to the transom and the tounge has 2 feet to spare, for maneuverability purposes. Am I correct, oh great one? Hahahaha


----------



## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

There have been several forum members here that I've watched,
who modified trailer tongues to get the proper length.
Snooknreds2 is one who did a major bit of work.
He's got a couple of ongoing projects, one that has pics of the trailer.

http://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1216062303/38#38

Also there have been a couple of utility trailer conversions
I've seen. One was done by a gent who brought a gheenoe
back from the dead. Green Hornet posted this:

http://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1225741506/25#25

As long as the trailer matches the load, and the length is right,
make sure all the parts are safe and you have backups for the trip,
you ought to be good. 

Post regarding long trailer trips:

http://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1228443376

(read fast, find answer, no memory needed) guru...what a laugh


----------



## rkmurphy (Nov 2, 2008)

Haha ok I think I can manage that by Friday...hopefully. I checked the CS website and a J16's approximate finished boat weight is around 600 pounds. Not sure if that means with a motor or not but doesn't matter. A motor wouldn't be more than 125-175 pounds. So, a jet ski trailer should have no problem hauling that. My father has a Honda Turbo jet ski that ways probably around 700-800 pounds and it has trailered that with me when I was fat...

So I found a couple on craigslist for around $200 that I will check out. Any other words of wisdom?

And I think guru is an accurate depiction


----------



## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

Read the post on long trailer trips.
Get the spares needed.
Carry tools.
Drive careful.
One of the forum guys was driving to pick up his new boat,
ended up in a fender bender on the way there.
Still got his boat, but complicated his day.


----------



## rkmurphy (Nov 2, 2008)

Will do...wish me luck.  Approx how much are new springs, bearings, axle, tounge, winch, and jack?  Hahahahaha I'd be looking myself right now but I'm doing some accounting and skipping between the 2...about 97% accounting and 3% microskiff...

And BTW Brett...I can't thank you enough for all the help you have given me since I joined...I honestly think you have answered in every one of my threads. The time you take to help is beyond appreciated.


----------



## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

spare hub assembly:

http://www.nextag.com/Shipshape-TRAILER-HUB-KITS-510894169/prices-html?nxtg=1081a0a1c0522-4CE5B13D92082AC8

rim and tire:

http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product?storeId=10101&Pr=p_Product.CATENTRY_ID%3A2015183&productId=2015183&catalogId=10111


----------



## rkmurphy (Nov 2, 2008)

Ok picked up a 1990 Continental galvanized trailer today for $250. Has good tires and bearing buddies (rusty buddies but functional). The trailer frame has almost no rust (very very very faint rust on the driver side fender and the frame by that fender...probably would come off with a brillo and some soap). What's the best way to care for these trailers? Should I spray it with some rust-o-leum? Would scrubbing the whole thing down with a Brill-o pad and soap help the appearance...not rusty...just looks old.


----------



## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

Brillo will just make more rust.
Wash boats and trailers with a scrub brush and dish soap.
Use a wire brush on actual rust spots.
To cover the rust stains and touch up the galvanized coating:

http://www.boatfix.com/shop2/scripts/prodList.asp?strSearch=77-06054


----------



## HaMm3r (Dec 11, 2006)

You should probably grease those bearings before making that long run with an untested trailer. I've gathered you're short on time, but also having a spare tire and an extra set of bearings along for the ride would make me feel a lot more confident.


----------



## rkmurphy (Nov 2, 2008)

> Brillo will just make more rust.
> Wash boats and trailers with a scrub brush and dish soap.
> Use a wire brush on actual rust spots.
> To cover the rust stains and touch up the galvanized coating:
> ...


Thanks. I'll definitely get a couple cans of that. Would it be safe/a good idea to go ahead and spray the whole trailer? And what about Rust-o-Leum for appearances/prevention?

As far as the bearings go, they are in decent shape (just ugly) and he filled them a couple days before I got there. I'm sure with a little scrubbing they can look a little prettier.

I'm going to take the whole day tomorrow and replace the bunks, bunk brackets, u-bolts, and clean it up (and I guess coat it with that CRC stuff...Boater's World?) for my boat pick-up on Saturday.

I'll post some pics of the finished product.


----------



## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

Your trailer, your choice. You can paint anything.
Make it look too good and it'll get stolen.
******* tech says: Function is more important than appearance...


----------



## Gramps (Nov 1, 2007)

I would pull the bearings & check them. Just because there is fresh grease doesn't mean all is well. It only takes a little time to repack, brings peace of mind and is a good skill to master.


----------



## rkmurphy (Nov 2, 2008)

Ok after some close inspection I found some questionable things that I wanted to ask you all about (that includes the guru).

By the looks of these, I would guess replace?  They are the u-bolts connecting the axle assembly to the trailer frame if you couldn't tell from the pics.





































And this seemed strange to me...I don't know anything about this stuff but it seems to me you would want the u-bolt to secure the back of the spring as well.  But it is just freely bouncing around in there.  Is it suppose to be?  Or should I secure it?










The springs aren't as bad as it appears in the last picture...I would say the are good for at least another year...but that's according to my very limited experience.

And Gramps, do you know of a link that could show me how to inspect the bearings with the bearing buddy and repack/reassemble? I don't want to go into it blindly.


----------



## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

Whether food or suspension parts,
I live by the rule: when in doubt, throw it out.

Hacksaws or cutting wheels are wonderful things.

Yes that's the way the springs are supposed to be.
Think about how they work, and you'll understand why.


video of a bearing redo:

http://www.mefeedia.com/entry/how-to-pack-trailer-wheel-bearings/7199586/


----------



## rkmurphy (Nov 2, 2008)

What about that spring, though? Should the rear of it be secured by that u-bolt?


----------



## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

Front is secured for direction of travel.
Back is allowed to swing to allow the end of the spring to move,
otherwise the spring wouldn't spring.
Push down on the trailer and watch the end of the spring move.
It is trapped in alignment by the suspension bolt.
Not locked in position.


----------



## rkmurphy (Nov 2, 2008)

That's why you're the guru, Brett...always know the right answer...

Well I guess I'm gonna replace pretty much all of the u-bolts. As far as the bearings go, I'll just have to see how long everything else takes me. The older gentlemen I purchased it from was very knowledgable and has run charters for a loooong time. He replaced everything he felt needed replacing other than anything to do with bunks. Then he repacked the BB's. So it's not my priority but if I have time to get to it I may check them.

Anyone know how long I have to go to the Tax Collector with the Bill of Sale and get it transferred/re-registered?


----------



## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

ASAP


----------



## rkmurphy (Nov 2, 2008)

You think it would be bad to wait til the end of next week/beginning of the week after? It's just going to sit in my garage...just need to wait for the check to come in...


----------



## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

that's what asap means...


----------



## rkmurphy (Nov 2, 2008)

Haha.  Well I'll post pics of the very minor pre-restoration tomorrow.  Hopefully in a couple months I'll have the extra cash to make in like new. My goal is to make it look better than hammer's. Haha it'll be tough...


----------



## HaMm3r (Dec 11, 2006)

> My goal is to make it look better than hammer's.


What?!   That's it...no more free advice for you!  ;D


----------



## FSUfisher (Jul 16, 2007)

You have up to 30 days as long as you have the bill of sale on you. Like Brett said, do it ASAP to get it out of the way. In my situation, I had to wait a couple of weeks because every dime I had went into my boat purchase. ;D


----------



## rkmurphy (Nov 2, 2008)

> You have up to 30 days as long as you have the bill of sale on you. Like Brett said, do it ASAP to get it out of the way. In my situation, I had to wait a couple of weeks because every dime I had went into my boat purchase.  ;D


Haha that's funny you say that because that is EXACTLY the situation I'm in.  Plus I have to fix this d*mn trailer.

And hammer...think of it this way...no matter how nice I made my trailer, the boat sitting on your's has WAY WAY more fish blood on it than mine will/ever will haha.

And sorry I never pm'd you back.  I really appreciate the help.  I'll try to get pics up tomorrow of what I get done.


One more question (for anyone who can answer). Do you think it's safe to pressure wash the springs? They have grease all over them and look like crap. Plus I'd like to get some of the rust flakes off.


----------



## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

Grease is good
rust is bad
it is possible to disassemble a spring pack
wire wheel individual leaves, check for cracks
if no cracks, recoat with some sort of undercoating or heavy grease
reassemble


----------



## rkmurphy (Nov 2, 2008)

What about a wire brush? Like you said to use to clean the frame.


----------



## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

just takes longer, same effect


----------



## HaMm3r (Dec 11, 2006)

> What about a wire brush?  Like you said to use to clean the frame.


Man, save yourself all that work. I think my springs costs $14 each, new. If yours are roadworthy as they are, use em until you can afford to replace them. It's not worth it.


----------



## rkmurphy (Nov 2, 2008)

That's what I'm talking about. A guy who understands the poor folk. Haha. Man I just checked out Boater's World website and found out that U-bolts are $13 a piece! I need 12 of them! Any cheaper alternatives?


----------



## HaMm3r (Dec 11, 2006)

> That's what I'm talking about.  A guy who understands the poor folk.  Haha.  Man I just checked out Boater's World website and found out that U-bolts are $13 a piece!  I need 12 of them!  Any cheaper alternatives?


Try Surplus Unlimted. They should have all the parts you need, and I think they'll ship. Good place to go browse around if you're close enough.
https://www.surplusunlimited.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=2700-110


----------



## paint it black (Nov 3, 2007)

Lol I drove up to Port Charlotte from Miami with a buddy to pick up the boat he bought. The guy told us the trailer was a little rusty, but should make the trip. The trailer was so busted up, but nonetheless, it made the trip back to Miami. After we got back and gave it an inspection, we noticed that the U-bolts were completely rusted out. The only thing holding the axle to the leaf springs was the amount of crusty rust that was packed around them. A couple weeks later, we pulled up to a local boat ramp and met a guy who had just bought a brand new aluminum trailer because his steel trailer had some rust in a couple areas. My buddy asked about the steel one and bought it off him for $100. My buddy cut out all the rust, and I re-welded new metal and reinforced the heck out of it.


----------



## rkmurphy (Nov 2, 2008)

quote author=30292F3730322A3B420 link=1232408918/30#32 date=1232685681]Try Surplus Unlimted. They should have all the parts you need, and I think they'll ship. Good place to go browse around if you're close enough.
https://www.surplusunlimited.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=2700-110[/quote]

There we go...I can't believe how much some of these retail stores jack up their prices...

Just checked with TA Mahoney over here in Tampa and they're $2.50/ea. Much better. They're zinc coated but they also carry that Instant Galvanize stuff. So I'll just spray them with that, hit em with a coat or two of Rust-o-leum, and hopefully get some years out of em.


----------



## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

http://corrosion-doctors.org/Definitions/Galvanizing.htm


----------



## rkmurphy (Nov 2, 2008)

Sorry I didn't end up posting pics. A lot of frustration involved in today. Spent about $100 in hardware, bunks, brackets, beer, etc. Replaced the u-bolts holding the axle on. Sprayed all hardware and light rusty spots on the trailer with CRC's Instant Galvanize.

I ran into a problem...I need a ratchet set with deep sockets. I left my old Craftsmen set at my dad's when I moved over closer to the university. So, therefore, I can't tighten the bunk brackets. Hopefully the guy who I'm buying the boat from tomorrow has a good set...

So all that's left to do is position the brackets in the right spots, carpet the bunks, and drill and bolt em in.

My future plans for the trailer:
-replace hubs and bearings (bearing buddies actually look new when you scrub the rust off)
-replace springs within the year
-new tounge
-new nylon strap and hook
-new tilt lock
-repaint the trailer with some nice aluminum colored rust-o-leum
-replace jack within next couple years

Trailer should/better look and function like new after that. I'll get the important things done (hubs, bearings, springs, and strap) but then I'm going to start saving to add to the boat.

First...the motor!


----------

