# 1989 Hewes Bonfisher 16 (I Think) Restoration



## yobata

Cool! Welcome to MS. It sure looks like a Hewes, but that front anchor locker doesn't seem familiar. Looking forward to seeing more!


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## Letstalkboats

yobata said:


> Cool! Welcome to MS. It sure looks like a Hewes, but that front anchor locker doesn't seem familiar. Looking forward to seeing more!


I thought just the same about the forward hatch! The best that I can tell is that when MBG started running this hull through their production line they changed the aft and fwd hatch layout on their deck cap, and also added bulkheads. Here are some photos of boats that I found when searching "1989 Hewes Bonfisher" that have the EXACT same fwd and aft deck hatch layout. One is even a Bob Hewes Ad!

*Fun fact: I also thought the little baby fwd hatch was an anchor locker from photos, but when I went to see the boat and opened it up, it opens to a small shallow compartment that just has a cleat in it. I guess this was an early solution to a flush bow cleat! I has just enough room in it for the cleat an a length of bow line. No room for even the smallest of anchors! It's pretty cool though, I plan to keep it, and just make a new fiberglass hatch to replace the starboard one someone put in at some point.


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## hunterbrown

http://chrismorejohn.blogspot.com/2017/07/how-to-build-one-of-kind-skiff-decks.html


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## Letstalkboats

So I was able to get into the boat just a bit this weekend to start tearing her down and really seeing what I've gotten myself into...

*Engine:*
I started with the engine (which I was told would not run). It's a 2003 Tohatsu 90HP fuel injected two stroke, so naturally, I started with a fluids and compression check. Despite there being no filter cartrage in the fuel filter housing, all the the fluids looked good. When I pulled the plugs I half expected to find one that indicated a hot cylinder, but they appeared to have been recently replaced so I wasn't able to learn much. I ran through a compression check and found the following with a cold engine, Cyl #1 - 90PSI, Cyl #2 - 90PSI, Cyl #3 - 0PSI! As we say down here in Alabama, "There's yer problem right there..."








At this point, I told myself since the plan is to repower, that I wouldn't spend a ton of time trying to get the engine running while it's still on the boat. If it were a simple fix, I would leave it on so I could test the boat out, but this would be a head gasket job at the very least.

*Poling Platform:*
I started working on the poling platform removal so that I could get the engine hooked up and pulled off. Of course the platform involved pulling some 1/2"x4" stainless bolts out of the transom and a 2" block of aluminum that has been living in the marine environment. For those of you that done know much about galvanic corrosion, let me give you the one thing you really need to know, never combine stainless and aluminum in an environment that will be exposed to or immersed in sea water for any given period of time without properly isolating them from contact.

In my case, removing the large stainless through bolts was pretty much near impossible. To be honest, the platform is still on as I type this. I was able to get three of the 8 bolts removed with significant motivation applied. I was also able the get the platform pole to start sliding up through the stbd side mounts, but the port side has been a real pain. Plan is to come back to this with a bigger hammer and a cheater pipe for the ratchet and see what prevails...














*De-Rigging:*
Most of the time that I had available included "de-rigging" the boat. I lost count of how many self tapping screws I pulled out of this boat yesterday... some of which were stainless, others were not much of anything anymore. Here's a brief list of things I pulled off at this point.

-Stern Cleats
-Transom lifting eyes
-Transom mounted transducers
-Platform rod holders
-Bimini and hardware
-Aft and fwd rod holders
-Bow fairleads
-Rub Rail
-Gunwhale rod holders
-Console rod holders
-GPS/Fish Finder
-Compass
-Gauges
-Bass boat seat
.....................................etc














The rub rail was actually mounted to the hull with aluminum rivets. In some areas there were stainless screws, which is the result of a repair. I drilled the heads off most of the rivets, though some of them just pulled right out.




















I also pulled back all the wiring between the console and battery compartment, in addition to pulling out the battery (bonus! this Interstate Marine Battery will be going in my ski boat). Then I started the labor intensive process of pulling back all of the engine wiring harness and control cables from the console. Fortunately, the chase tube on this boat is actually halfway decent. The wiring in the console and battery compartment were an absolute disaster...














I know tear down stories/photos are not nearly as fun as assembly photos, but it will sure be cool to look back at these posts a year or so from now!

Thanks for looking,

-Noble


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## NativeBone

Welcome! Look forward reading more!


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## Boneheaded

Good on you for actually stopping and taking pictures!


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## Letstalkboats

Hey Guys,
A short update on de-rigging the boat today.

Yesterday I was finally able to get the poling platform off, it took quite a bit of WD-40 and motivation. With that done, I finished stripping all of the control cables back to the engine and disconnected the steering cable from the tube. At this point the engine is ready to come off, and the boat is just about stripped down completely. I have been starting to consider how I am going to cut the deck cap free from the transom considering all of the engine well and hatches tie in, if anyone knows of any good threads on this, let me know!

I have confirmed what I already knew about the floor, it's shot. Just take a look at how many self tapping screws were holding down the console! I was also able to reach down to some stringers from an access hole and determine they were wood and in need of replacing. found some funny cutouts under that carpet!

Here are some photos of the boat MOSTLY stripped down at this point...
































I found a friend that is going to let me borrow his shop crane to lift the engine off, so I whipped up this engine stand this evening as well in preparation. Pretty happy with this thing, it's on little casters as well. 














Thanks, hoping to have the engine off this week before I leave for vacation to the keys (tarpon, tarpon, tarpon!) but I have a lot of packing to do still!

-Noble


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## CaptDanS

A lot of good info here

http://mbgforum.com

Suplus parts from Hewes
http://www.fpmarine.com

Good luck with your project.


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## Boneheaded

For the floor look into something called Nidacore. Awesome and light, may also will save you some work!


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## GladesMan

Keeping an eye on this, nice work!


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## Letstalkboats

GladesMan said:


> Keeping an eye on this, nice work!


Thanks a lot!


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## Letstalkboats

Boneheaded said:


> For the floor look into something called Nidacore. Awesome and light, may also will save you some work!


Will do! Is that a honey comb core material?


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## Boneheaded

Letstalkboats said:


> Will do! Is that a honey comb core material?


Yes you can get it pre glassed too!


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## Letstalkboats

Hey Guys,
Finally getting back to working on the Hewes project. Had to finish up the kitchen renovation at the house, and happy to be back on the boat this week. 

I focused on getting the shop organized and then worked at getting the deck cap cut away from the hull. I've never seen a cap/hull joint quite like this one before. After removing the rub rail through drilling out the rivets and removing screwed, I ran a putty knife around the joint with a hammer. It's hard to tell if the cap was glued to the hull, but I'd imagine it had to be because the faying surface is horizontal and there were no vertical fasteners. Best I can tell is they laid up a strip of plywood core around the perimeter of the deck and then glued it down to the flange of the hull.

Some areas were easy to separate, others were a b****. None the less, after lots of cutting with my sawsall and trim saw, a few shims, and I was able to separate the parts. I went ahead and removed the deck hatches as well.

Now planning what I am going to put the deck on when I flip it off the boat. I dont want to work on the floor, and I am a little concerned about putting it on saw horsed and losing the shape when I remove the old core.


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## Letstalkboats

Have made some more progress on the project. Got the deck cap removed from the hull and off to the side for now. Have been progressing with cutting out the sole, removing flotation foam, and starting at decoring the transom!


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## NickTPA

Wow....

Check this out.....
1987 Hewes Bonefisher

Doing maintaince yesterday and randomly decided to fix my soft spot. Well...no choice now!

Photos out of order.


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## NickTPA

I have no idea what the proper way is to repair my floor.

I cut the one soft spot out. Doing so allowed me to see the poor condition of the stringer.

Now what....other than panic?

Anybody know someone in the Tampa Bay Area who can do this job right?

I need to repair in order to sell the boat due to three kids. Love this boat...but too small at this point for my family. 

Everything in the boat has carefully been replaced over the last three years. 

Running a 1998 135 Optimax that has been thoughly updated. Runs like brand new...actually better than new. 

Added Bobs jackate, powerpole, every inch with marine grade wire, new seastar steering, all new pumps, trim tabs with new pump, 36v ipilot (I know), four new batteries, new trailer, interior lights, recirculating system for baitwell, all new mercury gauges, etc. 

Once the floor is repaired, Boat is basically new. 

I have loved and cared for this thing for the 3 years I have owned it. Some may say a repower is in order, but I trust this engine probably more than a new one. I have replaced everything on the engine except the piston and rings, really just for good measure.


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## Letstalkboats

Dang Nick,
Thats a bummer discovery, but doesn't surprise me too much after tearing my boat apart. Unfortunetly, in order to repair the stringers properly, you really have to go after it like I did and remove the deck cap and floor. Otherwise, you will only be able to get to parts of the stringers.

Honestly, the sad thing is, what you would pay someone to do this work is going to be big $$ compared to the value of the boat (In my opinion of course). I think you might be better off in the long run by parting out all the valuable things off your boat (power pole, troller, jack plate, batteries, etc, etc), and then selling the boat/hull as a project...

I know that seems tough to hear, but if you really do want to sell it, I cant imagine too many buyers that are going to want to spend the kind of money that the complete boat with accessories is worth, just to have to tear it apart.

I hope I am wrong, or you decide to keep the boat and fix it up for yourself!

I really wish you the best, and hope it works out one way or another. Really cool to see another boat from this era that is more put together.

What was the HID on your boat by the way? Was it a homemade number like mine was?


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## NickTPA

Update......

Worked my butt off.


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