# Building my own boat



## cpauly33 (Dec 22, 2010)

Fairly new to the boards but I've been reading for awhile. Been trying to find the right boat for the right price last couple months and just having no luck. I think I want to try my hand at building my own boat after looking some others have built. 

For my first go at it I'd like to keep it fairly simple so I think I'm going to buy some plans from Bateau. I'm looking at the FS12 model. Looks like a nice little skiff for a first time. But I would like to extend it to 14' and do the layout of the interior a little different. Bigger front deck, lose the middle seat, pretty standard layout. 

How difficult would this be to accomplish for my first build?


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

It's fairly simple to build, but I wouldn't extend the plans. Some of there plans allow for up to 10% adjustment at most. Why not just buy the plans for the FS14? since that is what you will end up with.

If you build it exactly as the plans state it will be easy, if you try to go custome your first time you will run into challenges. In the future I may build an FS17, after meeting jaque you can trust his designs are well thought out.


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## Gramps (Nov 1, 2007)

Why not go with the FS14? I would not try to scale a boat on a first build, there are too many things that can go wrong.

From what I can tell Bateau is good source for plans and those two (FS12/14) are good first builds. But there are also many other designers out there so don't limit yourself to just Bateau. I did a lot of research on building boats but decided building wasn't for me. 

I'm sure some of the seasoned builders jump in... Good luck!


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Most of these types of skiffs are simple builds and if you buy plans it will be pretty straightforward.

Gramps has the idea. There are many places to get plans from. A search will have you drowning in designs.

If you can find a project that has full size plans make it that much easier. Trace, cut, glue, paint, use.


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## Frank_Sebastian (Oct 15, 2007)

That is a great little boat. It is a very easy build. You will like it and after you build it you can modify and customize all you want.

Frank_S


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## cpauly33 (Dec 22, 2010)

I didn't even see the plans for the FS14. That would work just fine. The interior looks pretty good at that length. 

Where would be the best place to start looking at material costs?


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

you really gotta ask these questions on the bateau.com forum and the designer himself will answer. I am willing to bet there is an open layout design included in the plans.


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## Frank_Sebastian (Oct 15, 2007)

They are calling it the FastSkiff now.

http://www.bateau.com/proddetail.php?prod=FS14

Two of my friends (brothers) built this model. With a 9.9 Tohatsu it will plane and run fast enough for most. With a 25 it would be a thrill ride.

Frank_S


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## cpauly33 (Dec 22, 2010)

> you really gotta ask these questions on the bateau.com forum and the designer himself will answer. I am willing to bet there is an open layout design included in the plans.


Looks like I edited my post while you were typing yours. After seeing real pictures of the FS14 I kinda like the layout. Is there any good places to look at materials besides Bateau's mat store? Any place local in the SW Florida area?


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Chris,

On their site when you click the picture there is the info. They have prices for two different epoxy-fiberglass kits and if you want it to be real simple, but the plywood kit. Precut to perfection just like a model when you were a kid...just bigger.

Various lumberyards will carry the materials and it can save you a little, but if you buy it from them you get everything you need at once. Easy peasy.


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## cpauly33 (Dec 22, 2010)

Thanks for the advise so far. The more I look into it the better this all sounds. I probably will just order the Epoxy kit from Bateau.

With the Plywood how necessary is it to use the expensive stuff they suggest? Could I just use regular or maybe even treated plywood and still turn out a nice boat that will last me 3-5 years? I know I'll run into trouble eventually because the of the lower grade materials but I'm ok with that.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

You can use exterior ply, but don't use any pressure treated wood. Bateau.com has an explanation. If you want the boat to last a lifetime use good ply, if you want to to last 5 years, maybe more, use exterior ply.

read this
http://www.bateau2.com/howto/marine_ply.php


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## cpauly33 (Dec 22, 2010)

That's great news. Thank you. 

I order a set of plans. I'm sure I'll have more questions once they get here.


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## cpauly33 (Dec 22, 2010)

They offer 2 Epoxy-Fiberglass kits for the boat. Is the more expensive SilverTip worth the price difference? What is the difference?


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## twitch (Mar 4, 2007)

IMO Silvertip isn't worth the extra $$$. IIRC, it is a low/no blush resin, which isn't that big of a problem with proper prep. It does wet out heavier biax easier than some other epoxies, although I doubt you are gonna anything heavier than 17 oz, so it is a moot point.


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## cpauly33 (Dec 22, 2010)

So I went to look at plywood today. The good exterior wood that you suggested. Bateau says I need 3 sheets of 3/8 (10mm) plywood. The store near me only offers 11/32 (8.7mm) or 15/32 (11.9mm). Which would you suggest? Is it going to make following the plans any more difficult without the exact wood suggested?


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

Conversion 1 inch = 25.4 millimeters exactly

so 3/8 x 25.4 = 9.52 mm

15/32 x 25.4 = 11.9 mm

11/32 x 25.4 = 8.73 mm

Looks like you can use the 11/32 if you want to.
Add a layer of 6 ounce fiberglass cloth to the exterior of the hull
and you'll have a panel stronger than the thicker wood alone.
The thinner wood will flex about the same.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

Yep Brett's got it. the 11/32 will do just fine. But be careful of the wood you buy, look at the stack and make sure it doesn't have a rediculous amount of voids. If you can't find anything good at the big box stores try the lumber yards or cabinet shops around you. Also you will need to fill any voids you find with thickened epoxy. Not a big deal but it needs to be done.


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## oysterbreath (Jan 13, 2009)

Chris, I don't think Bataue offers an OPEN version of the FS14. Another option is the Sandy straight 14 from Bowdidge. It IS an open design. It's an awesome design and is comparable to the FS14 but is a bit wider and the plans cost a little more as I recall. IMHO the construction is slightly more straight forward and the plans are more comprehensive. I've seen plans for both.

http://www.bowdidgemarinedesigns.com/Bowdidge_Marine_Designs_1/Sandy_Strait_14.html


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

I am using MarinEpoxy from Bateau which is usually included in their cheaper kits. It does good work. I couldn't justify SilverTip after reading the MarinEpoxy reviews.

Nate


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## cpauly33 (Dec 22, 2010)

Thanks for all the help so far.

Got my plans today. Looks like a lot of work but could also be a lot of fun. Getting excited. I wanna put together a full list of everything I need to get started so I can see what kinda costs I'm looking at.

Besides the Fiberglass kit from Bateau and Wood. Including Plywood for the boat and 2x4's for the jig. I also know I need a big bag of zip ties.

What other materials do I need to make sure I have before I get started?

Also whats the standard set of tools required for a project like this?


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## Gramps (Nov 1, 2007)

Chris shoot me an email at sctaylor869 at yhoo. I have an excel spreadsheet with the majority of items required. I have to give credit to forum member Bob as the base list came from his build blog of a SWEET FS18 http://www.wetconcepts.com/FS18.htm His blog is also a great condensed version of what goes into a build.


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## cpauly33 (Dec 22, 2010)

I found the spreadsheet on his blog. Thanks for the link. That is a really impressive build.


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

I think you're over thinking this.
I guarantee you'll figure out what tools you'll need as you progress.
And you'll find that you never have enough clamps.

                                       

One tip, a metal cutting blade makes for cleaner cuts when working thin plywood.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

Brett's mention of blades made me think I should comment. Do not, I repeat, do not buy one of those 140 tooth plywood blades! They deflect easy so your cuts will never be straight and really aren't as clean a cut as you would think. I switched over to a decent 80 tooth in my table saw and 60 tooth in my circular saw and they cut great.

Oh and definately have plenty of clamps! A piece of 4" pvc pipe cut up make good cheap spring clamps.









You will also want to have plenty of sand paper and palmsander/orbital of some kind. A power drill is a must, as is a jig saw. There are a ton of little things you will need, but most you will learn as you go along.


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

If you anticipate everything you need and buy it up front, the price will overwhelm you. It is better to proceed in ignorance and figure out what you need along the way. My wife is really impressed with the "just few hundred bucks" justifications that I have put forth so far.

...except for the Harbor Freight sale on 6" rail clamps that Rosco found. Buy every one you can if you get the chance!

Nate


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## oysterbreath (Jan 13, 2009)

> Brett's mention of blades made me think I should comment. Do not, I repeat, do not buy one of those 140 tooth plywood blades! They deflect easy so your cuts will never be straight and really aren't as clean a cut as you would think. I switched over to a decent 80 tooth in my table saw and 60 tooth in my circular saw and they cut great.


What brand blade is that 60 tooth? I need to find a good ply blade for my Harbor freight cordless circular saw (5.5" blades)


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## cpauly33 (Dec 22, 2010)

I bought my wood yesterday. Starting to work on cutting it all out but I was thinking ahead. How do you go about cutting the curves in the wood? Or not so much cutting them but drawing your cut lines?


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

Did you get full size templates, or do you have to make station and offset measurements?

If full size templates, you tape the template in place on your lumber and trace the outline.
If station and offset you establish your base line, mark the station intervals
then measure left/right to mark the offsets.











After marking the offsets, set small nails at the offset points










Bend a strip of lumber along the nails











Then trace the curve


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## cpauly33 (Dec 22, 2010)

Takin it slow and steady but I was able to get 2 sheets of Plywood cut up today. Went pretty well, my curve cuts could use work, but thats why I went cheap for my first project.

Ran into one problem. One of the sheets I was supposed to cut out both the Bow deck and Transom deck. The plans seem to assume that plywood is 4' 1/2" x 8' 1/2". But mine is exactly 4'x8'. So both of the platforms are 1/2" too narrow, 1/4" on each side.

Will a 1/4" gap cause any big problems that I cant just fill in later or should I recut them?


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

> So both of the platforms are 1/2" too narrow, 1/4" on each side.


Could it be that the missing 1/2" is the 1/4" of hull on each side of the deck?


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

The best part of the stitch and glue technique you are using is anything can be fixed! Once the decks are bonded in place use some more thickened epoxy to fill in the gaps before glassing.

Oyster I believe my blade is a diablo.


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## cpauly33 (Dec 22, 2010)

> > So both of the platforms are 1/2" too narrow, 1/4" on each side.
> 
> 
> Could it be that the missing 1/2" is the 1/4" of hull on each side of the deck?


No, the plans come with measurements for each panel, individually. 

I'm going to try and use them, fill in the gaps. If it doesn't look like it'll work out then I'll just have to cut them each from their own piece of wood.


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## levip (Dec 4, 2010)

ditto on the diablo blade thats one mean circ saw blade they are unstopable a little pricy but dang they work good!!


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