# flat floor in a hi-sider



## TomFL (Oct 2, 2007)

What's the best and lightest setup to add a flat floor in the hi-sider? Would like it to be removeable so I can take it out when I don't need it. Need it to be light as I portage the boat short distances to get into crazy places. 

Love to see pics if you've got 'em

Thanks

-T


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## HaMm3r (Dec 11, 2006)

Coming up on a year since I got my highsider, and for the anniversary I plan to pull it off the lift and put it in the garage for some "adjustements". The third item on my to-do list is a removable false floor, and I'm thinking about using one of those plastic shipping pallots. They're wide enough and pretty strong, but I haven't actually tried it yet, so I'm throwing the idea out there...


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## TomFL (Oct 2, 2007)

> Coming up on a year since I got my highsider, and for the anniversary I plan to pull it off the lift and put it in the garage for some "adjustements". The third item on my to-do list is a removable false floor, and I'm thinking about using one of those plastic shipping pallots. They're wide enough and pretty strong, but I haven't actually tried it yet, so I'm throwing the idea out there...


Can't for the life of me picture one of the plastic shipping pallets. I've seen some with large "feet" that hang down and raise the pallets high enough to get a forklift skid underneath them, but I doubt that's what you're thinking of. 

More info please!

-T


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## HaMm3r (Dec 11, 2006)

A quick internet search and I found this image of a couple different styles. I had one almost like the middle one, and it was plenty strong, even with the feet cut off. (_It was one of my first ideas to use as casting decks_)


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## FlatsSteeler (Dec 10, 2006)

Thats a great idea...... I am looking to do the same.......keep me posted as well
Joe


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## costefishnt (Dec 11, 2006)

I made some years ago from 3/4 marine ply. You could get away with 1/2. cut to match the inside of the chines (first line before gunnels) carpet, or seadek and drop in. EZPZ.1 full sheet of ply wood does the entire boat. I made templates from card board, then cut, carpeted and I was done. one note though, be sure to put carpet, or rubber, or seadek on all of the surfaces that touch fiberglass, this will save the fiberglass, as well as make it quiet.


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## zero_gravity (Dec 14, 2006)

got out of the car when I saw some of those blue pallets yesterday asked the guy if I could stand on it and to my surprise no flex


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## Un-shore (Sep 27, 2007)

won't your toes get stuck in the holz?


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## redgheenoe (Apr 28, 2007)

Just think....your floor has 50 built in rod holders!


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## HaMm3r (Dec 11, 2006)

> won't your toes get stuck in the holz?


 ;D That's funny...the one I had had a much finer grate, so no. But, then I planned to cover it with foam padding just like my casting decks, so it wouldn't be an issue either way.


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## TomFL (Oct 2, 2007)

I'm going to try going with the plywood/marine carpeting route. 

It's odd to note that this is among the first mods everyone on the forum reccomends to a new member, but no one has posted any pics or definate answers as to what their setup is. What gives?

???


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## chandler27 (Jul 24, 2007)

> I'm going to try going with the plywood/marine carpeting route.
> 
> It's odd to note that this is among the first mods everyone on the forum reccomends to a new member, but no one has posted any pics or definate answers as to what their setup is. What gives?
> 
> ???


They like watching you struggle for answers...

Why do you want it removable? I am wanting to do one soon but was just planning on using this as my intro into fiberglassing and was just planning on fiberglassing it down.


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## TomFL (Oct 2, 2007)

I'd like it removeable because I'm getting old and weak, and pretty much all of the spots I use the gheenoe in require pulling it off--and back on--the trailer. Any extra weight just adds to my misery.

-T


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## deerfly (Mar 10, 2007)

Weight is a good reason, but when I get around to my hi-sider make-over it'll have a permanent level floor with 2-part foam underneath between an extended fore and aft deck, nmz style. Probably looking at epoxy/glass skinned 1/4" okume ply with some hi-density foam stringers to support the larger air spaces. Then coat the top with bedliner for scuff, skidd and slip control. I guess nidacore or some other honeycomb lamination would work too, but there isn't a whole lot of depth to deal with and I think laminated 1/4" would have enough support in the water. Might flex a little more standing in the boat on the trailer though. Anyway, if I do it right the floor aspect shouldn't add but a few extra pounds at most considering the center seat will go away. Keeping the fore and aft decks light but strong enough for pedestal seats if I want them will be tougher to do from a weight standpoint.

I would like to see some project build-a-longs too though. This is definitely one of them things where its better to be one of the sheep at the back of the herd.


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## Guest (Feb 1, 2008)

I have an NMZ with a factory flat floor and if I did anything it would most likely be cored w/stringers. When / if I do it, I'll be sure to post. 

Just my .0000000002 sense.


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## chandler27 (Jul 24, 2007)

Im thinkin next weekend if I get some free time i'll wire everything I wanted and run all the wires down the middle of the noe and then add a simple false floor.

Would give me a good chance to give fiberglassing a try....do they sell simple kits at Home Depot or Lowes?


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## Gator87 (Apr 5, 2007)

I have installed a permanent false floor in my 1987 highsider. Love it. I used Okoume 1088 - 9mm. I am not sure how a removable would hold up over time, but I understand your concern about weight. You can make your removable lighter by only going about 14" wide. Not totally necessary to make ply cover the entire floor surface. Anyone who installs one, I would suggest spending the extra $$$ on epoxy resin instead of polyester on the floor. Good luck.

Scott


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## flyfshrmn82 (Oct 12, 2007)

Here is a link for a step by step transformation with a false floor. Why would you drag you boat on and off your trailer? Do you have guide poles a rope, and a winch?

If you haven't already, follow along with the story. Somewhere along to bottom of the comments will be a link to the next chapter of the story. Enjoy.... 

http://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1199713717


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## TomFL (Oct 2, 2007)

> Here is a link for a step by step transformation with a false floor.  Why would you drag you boat on and off your trailer?   Do you have guide poles a rope, and a winch?
> 
> If you haven't already, follow along with the story.  Somewhere along to bottom of the comments will be a link to the next chapter of the story.  Enjoy....
> 
> http://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1199713717


Nice project! You guys are waaaay more advanced than me, but it's nice to watch along with the posts. Excellent work. 

As for your question, honestly I drag the boat on and off the trailer because virtually all the spots I use the gheenoe are totally isolated areas, that have absolutely no ramp or accessability. Most of the time it's being pulled off the trailer, then slid down the side of a canal bank into the water. Sometimes when space allows I back the trailer down the side of the canal bank to save some effort, but this is pretty rare. 

It usually includes pushing the boat through 10' or so of floating grass/vegitation to get to the water once off the trailer.

At times I am doing this solo.

Really the only reason I fish out of the gheenoe is to get into remote areas that I can't access with a flats boat. The comment "how did you guys get a boat in there?!" has become pretty normal, on the rare occasions we run into people where we fish/hunt. 

-T


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