# Boron Skiff Aluminum Build - Texas



## BaffinFlats (Apr 28, 2020)

About to start a build of an Boron Aluminum skiff design with tunnel from Chris Morejohn adapted to aluminum by Nathan Shawl. Photo's here are of non-tunnel.

Questions/Advice:
- Best type of paint for bottom/top ?
- Type of Foam for flotation/USCG?
- Supposed to be low hull slap, any recommendations to help reduce?
- Tiller or console? I'm torn, fish Baffin/Mansfield a lot with longer runs, open water. Have always had consoles but like simplicity of tiller.
- Best/cheapest place in S/Central Texas to get a trailer?
- Thinking Tohatsu motor (50hp), any thoughts either way?
- Will be using trim tabs and jack plate most likely.
- Anyone know anyone that has built this hull in aluminum? How did it perform? 

Hull is 17'9" long and 65" wide.

Thank you!


----------



## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

This will be the only advise I can offer on this thread. Red scotch-bright the hull and acid wash right before priming. As soon as the acid wash is dry, apply a self etching or epoxy primer. Topcoat with a good 2part urethane paint. For the topside, I would use tint-able raptor liner in the color/s of your liking. Prep the bare aluminum and prime the same as outside/bottom then raptor line. Hope that helps, good luck with the build. Chris will answer any design/build questions in a timely manor I’m sure.


----------



## EdK13 (Oct 3, 2013)

Baffin- best dial in a tunnel on that cad and sponsons for good measure.


----------



## BaffinFlats (Apr 28, 2020)

EdK13 said:


> Baffin- best dial in a tunnel on that cad and sponsons for good measure.


Thanks Ed. What's the best way to do that? Draw up the motor/jack plate to make sure it aligns properly? Any recommendations?


----------



## EdK13 (Oct 3, 2013)

I would think the guy that adapted the design would be able to answer all you questions. The tunnel dimensions from a sea ark or similar would be a good starter. A tunnel extension might work with it if you want to forego sponsons. Like the lines man, hate to mess that up. There is a tricked out tin boat site whose name escapes me that might be helpful. Otts was tunnel happy. The transom riser is important if you do a 20 inch w/ Bobs 6 inch JP.


----------



## BaffinFlats (Apr 28, 2020)

EdK13 said:


> I would think the guy that adapted the design would be able to answer all you questions. The tunnel dimensions from a sea ark or similar would be a good starter. A tunnel extension might work with it if you want to forego sponsons. Like the lines man, hate to mess that up. There is a tricked out tin boat site whose name escapes me that might be helpful. Otts was tunnel happy. The transom riser is important if you do a 20 inch w/ Bobs 6 inch JP.


Thanks Ed. Chris Morejohn designed the tunnel (it's not in those 3D renderings) but it's in my 2D files. I think he was one of the founders of Hells Bay so I'm guessing it's gonna work but I may try and model it out like you said, good idea. He probably forgets more in a week on skiffs than I can learn in a lifetime. Thanks for the video!


----------



## LowHydrogen (Dec 31, 2015)

How do you plan to handle the compound curves toward the bow with aluminum?


----------



## BaffinFlats (Apr 28, 2020)

LowHydrogen said:


> How do you plan to handle the compound curves toward the bow with aluminum?


3D model is laid flat on 2D sheets and cut on a laser. The aluminum will bow around the frames on the boat and be tac welded prior to doing the long welds. Fingers crossed.


----------



## EdK13 (Oct 3, 2013)

BaffinFlats said:


> Thanks Ed. Chris Morejohn designed the tunnel (it's not in those 3D renderings) but it's in my 2D files. I think he was one of the founders of Hells Bay so I'm guessing it's gonna work but I may try and model it out like you said, good idea. He probably forgets more in a week on skiffs than I can learn in a lifetime. Thanks for the video!


You are welcome. I have an underused 01 HB 17.8 T. GLWB!


----------



## LowHydrogen (Dec 31, 2015)

BaffinFlats said:


> 3D model is laid flat on 2D sheets and cut on a laser. The aluminum will bow around the frames on the boat and be tac welded prior to doing the long welds. Fingers crossed.


Gotcha.

Also I think considering the cap, gunnels and chine shape, the number of ribs under the cockpit might be overkill. If it's strictly to support the sole/floor you may save some weight running something longitudinal. Also welding the ribs in a perpendicular orientation is going to be more likely to deflect the hull in a less desirable way. Meaning any oil canning would be creating mini hooks in the running surface, where if the were longitudinal any draw in the aluminum would be oriented in a way that wouldn't affect planing efficiency.

Not sure that made sense, either way I think this is a really cool project.


----------



## BaffinFlats (Apr 28, 2020)

LowHydrogen said:


> Gotcha.
> 
> Also I think considering the cap, gunnels and chine shape, the number of ribs under the cockpit might be overkill. If it's strictly to support the sole/floor you may save some weight running something longitudinal. Also welding the ribs in a perpendicular orientation is going to be more likely to deflect the hull in a less desirable way. Meaning any oil canning would be creating mini hooks in the running surface, where if the were longitudinal any draw in the aluminum would be oriented in a way that wouldn't affect planing efficiency.
> 
> Not sure that made sense, either way I think this is a really cool project.


I think you know a lot more about skiff building then me. I get it all except 100% of "Meaning any oil canning would be creating mini hooks in the running surface, where if the were longitudinal any draw in the aluminum would be oriented in a way that wouldn't affect planing efficiency."

Are you saying to put the ribs perpendicular to where they are now? I get that you'd want the stress going in the same direction of the boat, but the aluminum is cut perpendicular to the ribs so I'm not sure how you'd mount the boat hull to the ribs if they went in the same direction. Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you said. Not familiar with oil canning/mini hooks either. Love to learn more.


----------



## LowHydrogen (Dec 31, 2015)

BaffinFlats said:


> I think you know a lot more about skiff building then me. I get it all except 100% of "Meaning any oil canning would be creating mini hooks in the running surface, where if the were longitudinal any draw in the aluminum would be oriented in a way that wouldn't affect planing efficiency."
> 
> Are you saying to put the ribs perpendicular to where they are now? I get that you'd want the stress going in the same direction of the boat, but the aluminum is cut perpendicular to the ribs so I'm not sure how you'd mount the boat hull to the ribs if they went in the same direction. Maybe I'm misunderstanding what you said. Not familiar with oil canning/mini hooks either. Love to learn more.


Never built my own skiff, but have welded a lot of everything and helped built some aluminum hunting boats (Jon boat shaped). Aluminum can be prone to pulling/drawing/deflecting however you want to phrase it, when it's welded. 

If the ribs are going to act as the stations of the boat, then you'll likely have to leave them in to get the shape of the hull you're after.

Oil canning is just the deflection of the metal, in this case from heat/welding. Think of a can of soup, the ribs/rings run around the outside, if the bottom of a boat had similar but less pronounced deflection from welding it would probably go faster if the water was flowing down the groove long ways rather than across it. The reason I brought this up initially is because it looks like the ribs are drawn as vertically oriented plate and the more concentrated the heat input the more deflection you can expect after welding.

I made a little picture to try and explain what I was meaning by having a lot of heat input in one area. 

I don't want you to think I'm discouraging you or knocking your plan at all, I think this is going to be a really awesome build and something I have thought about a lot. 

I think the key to having a slick bottom on a project like this will be to fit and tack everything (a lot) not little button tacks, decent tacks that will hold under stress stitch welding the ribs and staggering the stitches as well will all help reduce your heat input.


----------



## Charles Hadley (Jan 20, 2019)

How much experience do you have welding aluminum?do yo plan to mig,spool gun or tig?what amp welding machine are you using?what series aluminum are you using for sheeting,are you using same series of aluminum for structure?will all sheeting joints be butt welded, with or without backing?or flanged and overlapping?


----------



## Indoman (Jul 25, 2013)

I was in the aircraft paint biz in a past life and agree with JC/Boatbrain’s (or whatever he’s going by this week lol).


----------



## Tautog166 (Jul 7, 2018)

Charles Hadley said:


> How much experience do you have welding aluminum?do yo plan to mig,spool gun or tig?what amp welding machine are you using?what series aluminum are you using for sheeting,are you using same series of aluminum for structure?will all sheeting joints be butt welded, with or without backing?or flanged and overlapping?


I would imagine that someone would not attempt this without prior experience. My guess is if he is planning to start one he is very capable. 

Looking forward to the build.


----------



## Charles Hadley (Jan 20, 2019)

Just asking questions, there are 20 fiberglass builds on here from some people with no experience or background in trade,just interested in his approach


----------



## FishWithChris (Feb 6, 2019)

so I run a Xpress 185 Skiff (aluminum, actually a skiff, yes). I can tell you that if you have the intention to fish on the bow a lot to additional support stringers to minimize any possibility of bowing or wave of the aluminum. 

A note on your design, unless you're fishing backwater, looks like a decent amount of hull-slap will occur... can you sharpen up that entry from about 4' back from the nose and forward? Any rough water and you're going to get slammerwhopped. 

Super stoked to watch this build come to life. I love aluminum boats.


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

There was a guy once on 2coolfishing that built and ran outboard jet powered aluminum skiffs. He said he keeps the ribs across the hull to a minimum and instead places the emphasis on longitudinal runners / stringers. The thought being that if you impact something it will move down the hull deflecting it slightly as it moves along until it gets to one of the crossmembers, then bam that is where the problems will occur, if they are going to occur. Look at most any airboat hull. Few if any crossmembers.


----------



## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

Ok, I lied... But you could also leave the side/side supports in place and ad some lifting strakes to the bottom using 1x2 or similar angle. Would give longitudinal support and add lift/ tracking aid for poling! Of course, I highly recommend getting approval from the designer and his naval architect before changing/modifying anything on the design.  Ok, now I’m done unless it’s a paint question in which I’ll be happy to assist again, James


----------



## BaffinFlats (Apr 28, 2020)

Charles Hadley said:


> How much experience do you have welding aluminum?do yo plan to mig,spool gun or tig?what amp welding machine are you using?what series aluminum are you using for sheeting,are you using same series of aluminum for structure?will all sheeting joints be butt welded, with or without backing?or flanged and overlapping?


I'm working with some friends who have 20+ years welding aluminum. Got 5086 quoted but way too expensive. Using 5052, designer said that works well also. Using MIG, have several machines at different Amperage.


----------



## K3anderson (Jan 23, 2013)

No idea on any of the questions you asked, but, can't wait to see this come to life. Awesome.


----------



## Fishtex (May 10, 2014)

As far as trailers go, Magnum on hwy 620 can build about any kind of trailer you could want. Spiller on I35 would be another option. Any of the boat dealers as well. I like the service I’ve got from Action Marine on RR2222.


----------



## Jarett (Aug 23, 2016)

In for the build. Just upgraded my aluminum mig rig and building my own skiff over the next couple of weeks as well.


----------



## Gatorgrizz27 (Apr 4, 2015)

This is pretty awesome. An aluminum build may be in my future depending on how well my wood/glass/epoxy build holds up.

You could solve the potential oil canning issue by running angle parallel along the bottom inside those frame notches and floating the bottom of the frames off the bottom skin. If the bottom is .100 or thicker though I don’t think you’ll have any problems.

Duck hunting guys beat the holy hell out of their boats dragging them across dikes, slamming into stumps underwater, jumping beaver dams, etc. That’s where you get divots in front of the horizontal frames.


----------



## crboggs (Mar 30, 2015)

K3anderson said:


> No idea on any of the questions you asked, but, can't wait to see this come to life. Awesome.


An aluminum version of this skiff could be epic over that limestone a bit north of us.


----------



## SeaDrifter (Apr 4, 2018)

The best place to get a trailer is Coastline here in Seadrift but they are not cheap. Expect to drop $3,500+ and you will have to leave the boat with them because all their trailers are custom built to your boat.



Michael


----------



## noeettica (Sep 23, 2007)

WoW I am impressed ! The "Quality Aluminum" Movement is growing 

Built to last a lifetime  Still can't believe some Idiots still use self tapping
screws in chop strand to hold on a "Raptor" Platform . Then ban me for calling them out ... Grow up children !!!


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

SeaDrifter said:


> The best place to get a trailer is Coastline here in Seadrift but they are not cheap. Expect to drop $3,500+ and you will have to leave the boat with them because all their trailers are custom built to your boat.
> 
> 
> 
> Michael



I have a buddy that is having heck getting a trailer to his liking for his HB Pro. First one they built he took back and now he picked up his old Ramlin that he gave me to have them emulate it. But they are working with him, so that is good.


----------



## SeaDrifter (Apr 4, 2018)

Sublime said:


> I have a buddy that is having heck getting a trailer to his liking for his HB Pro. First one they built he took back and now he picked up his old Ramlin that he gave me to have them emulate it. But they are working with him, so that is good.


That's crazy. I have had them fabricate 3 trailers for me thus far and a 4th has been ordered and all have been perfect. I do know that any modifications outside of their norm have to be clearly communicated and on the work order. The first trailer I assumed they would do it the way I wanted but the ball was dropped on my end and they still quickly made my revisions.



Michael


----------



## Jarett (Aug 23, 2016)

I mean if you’re paying somebody to custom build a boat you could probably just pay them to build you a custom trailer too. Trailers aren’t that hard to make. Helps take the guess work when they can test the boat for fit at the shop it’s being build at.


----------



## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

SeaDrifter said:


> That's crazy. I have had them fabricate 3 trailers for me thus far and a 4th has been ordered and all have been perfect. I do know that any modifications outside of their norm have to be clearly communicated and on the work order. The first trailer I assumed they would do it the way I wanted but the ball was dropped on my end and they still quickly made my revisions.
> 
> Michael



I kind of get it. I bet dry launch, technical poling skiffs are about 1% of their business. Been several weeks since I've touched base with him. I need to see how the second trailer is coming along.


----------



## msmith719 (Oct 9, 2012)

Charles Hadley said:


> How much experience do you have welding aluminum?do yo plan to mig,spool gun or tig?what amp welding machine are you using?what series aluminum are you using for sheeting,are you using same series of aluminum for structure?will all sheeting joints be butt welded, with or without backing?or flanged and overlapping?


Huh? Are you trying to dissuade him from building his boat? What did the Wright Bros know about building airplanes? Did Henry Ford serve an apprenticeship in automobile building before starting Ford Motor Company? The point is that people are quick to learn, especially when it's a project of their dreams. I'v e never built an aluminum boat but I have built several composite boats and helped a neighbor build a 42' wood lobster type boat with steamed ribs and planking. Lack of aluminum welding experience wouldn't slow me down for a minute if I wanted to build an aluminum skiff. It's learnable or there wouldn't be anyone who could weld aluminum.


----------



## Charles Hadley (Jan 20, 2019)

msmith719 said:


> Huh? Are you trying to dissuade him from building his boat? What did the Wright Bros know about building airplanes? Did Henry Ford serve an apprenticeship in automobile building before starting Ford Motor Company? The point is that people are quick to learn, especially when it's a project of their dreams. I'v e never built an aluminum boat but I have built several composite boats and helped a neighbor build a 42' wood lobster type boat with steamed ribs and planking. Lack of aluminum welding experience wouldn't slow me down for a minute if I wanted to build an aluminum skiff. It's learnable or there wouldn't be anyone who could weld aluminum.


read post 16,thank you for the theoretical history lesson.


----------



## omegadef (Jul 10, 2011)

What thickness are the panels? 
I've been on many aluminum boats(gator tail, gator trax, xpress, homemade, etc) and never seen an issue with the horizontal cross members.


----------



## LowHydrogen (Dec 31, 2015)

msmith719 said:


> Huh? Are you trying to dissuade him from building his boat? What did the Wright Bros know about building airplanes? Did Henry Ford serve an apprenticeship in automobile building before starting Ford Motor Company? The point is that people are quick to learn, especially when it's a project of their dreams. I'v e never built an aluminum boat but I have built several composite boats and helped a neighbor build a 42' wood lobster type boat with steamed ribs and planking. Lack of aluminum welding experience wouldn't slow me down for a minute if I wanted to build an aluminum skiff. It's learnable or there wouldn't be anyone who could weld aluminum.


The Wright Bros. and Henry Ford made quite a few POSs before they got it right, I think this guy wants a boat to use not a prototype.

What you're describing is a false equivalence. There's no comparison working with wood and glass, compared to aluminum. Once aluminum is messed up/overheated/warped you're cutting the whole panel/section out, not grinding it and putting a second layer of glass. It's much more difficult to correct mistakes without it looking butchered.

I will also tell you, the ability to weld aluminum at a level needed to build a boat like the one sketched here are best learned in a welding booth, or a shop with people who know what's going on. The OP already stated he's got experienced help, that is smart, and will save him big money.


----------



## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

BaffinFlats said:


> I'm working with some friends who have 20+ years welding aluminum. Got 5086 quoted but way too expensive. Using 5052, designer said that works well also. Using MIG, have several machines at different Amperage.


This is going to be a great build and I think you will end up with an awesome skiff.

The only thing I know about working with aluminum is how to spell it. However, I have been on a lot of custom duck boats that get the snot beat out of them. The ones that hold up the best in regards to the oil canning of the hull are the ones that are built with thicker sheets for the bottom and a touch thinner for the sides. This cuts down a bit on weight as well.

Please keep this thread updated as you are doing something special and there are probably a lot of people who this will benefit.


----------



## Jarett (Aug 23, 2016)

I think the big challenge with this design will be hull slap. I would look at how the sabine's are made. They say they have virtually no hull slap. Either way it will ride like an aluminum boat - rough.


----------



## BaffinFlats (Apr 28, 2020)

FishWithChris said:


> so I run a Xpress 185 Skiff (aluminum, actually a skiff, yes). I can tell you that if you have the intention to fish on the bow a lot to additional support stringers to minimize any possibility of bowing or wave of the aluminum.
> 
> A note on your design, unless you're fishing backwater, looks like a decent amount of hull-slap will occur... can you sharpen up that entry from about 4' back from the nose and forward? Any rough water and you're going to get slammerwhopped.
> 
> Super stoked to watch this build come to life. I love aluminum boats.


Hi Chris,
Are you talking hull slap while poling or while running? I run a New Water Ibis right now and this has quite a bit more V than it. I get pounded in rough waves. My goal is being able to pole/drift as shallow as possible without hull slap 
Thanks for the comments


----------



## BaffinFlats (Apr 28, 2020)

Jarett said:


> I think the big challenge with this design will be hull slap. I would look at how the sabine's are made. They say they have virtually no hull slap. Either way it will ride like an aluminum boat - rough.


I am concerned about that. The designer said it should have less hull slap than the Sabine's. We'll see.


----------



## BaffinFlats (Apr 28, 2020)

BaffinFlats said:


> I'm working with some friends who have 20+ years welding aluminum. Got 5086 quoted but way too expensive. Using 5052, designer said that works well also. Using MIG, have several machines at different Amperage.


Yes we are using 5052 as 5086 was too expensive. Having problems finding 20ft sheets though.


----------



## BaffinFlats (Apr 28, 2020)

Sublime said:


> There was a guy once on 2coolfishing that built and ran outboard jet powered aluminum skiffs. He said he keeps the ribs across the hull to a minimum and instead places the emphasis on longitudinal runners / stringers. The thought being that if you impact something it will move down the hull deflecting it slightly as it moves along until it gets to one of the crossmembers, then bam that is where the problems will occur, if they are going to occur. Look at most any airboat hull. Few if any crossmembers.
> 
> View attachment 131326


I definitely see your point. The sheet cuts I have all go longitudinal so that's where my long weld lines will be. Less welding on ribs. I may be a little too far along to change things up at this point. Could make tweaks on the "next build". What do you mean by more "bam", not sure if typo or a term I'm unfamiliar with. Thanks!


----------



## omegadef (Jul 10, 2011)

Guys, this is a Chris Morejohn design. 1/8" thick bottom plate. It will be fine in all regards, especially "hull slap". No need making the guy worry about it.


----------



## BaffinFlats (Apr 28, 2020)

omegadef said:


> What thickness are the panels?
> I've been on many aluminum boats(gator tail, gator trax, xpress, homemade, etc) and never seen an issue with the horizontal cross members.


1/8"


----------



## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

BaffinFlats said:


> I definitely see your point. The sheet cuts I have all go longitudinal so that's where my long weld lines will be. Less welding on ribs. I may be a little too far along to change things up at this point. Could make tweaks on the "next build". What do you mean by more "bam", not sure if typo or a term I'm unfamiliar with. Thanks!


Bam refers to hitting something.

Your not using 1/8th? What are you using? What does the plans spec?


----------



## Finatic7 (Feb 14, 2020)

I'd love to hear an update or maybe see some pics.


----------



## BaffinFlats (Apr 28, 2020)

Finatic7 said:


> I'd love to hear an update or maybe see some pics.


I did volumetric calculations/displacement and I need the boat to float a little skinnier. So, I'm extending it about 17" and 10" wider and relaying out the sheets so I'm delayed about 2 months. Will post more when I start building it.


----------



## bob_esper (Jun 3, 2021)

Any updates? I'm in the process of building something hopefully somewhat similar to a Sabine.


----------



## BaffinFlats (Apr 28, 2020)

bob_esper said:


> Any updates? I'm in the process of building something hopefully somewhat similar to a Sabine.


Got too busy at work so a delay. I wanted to get curvature right on bottom so I cut ribs/bottom out of scrap steel to get measurements exact before going to Aluminum. Hope to start in AL in about a month. Good luck on yours!


----------



## bob_esper (Jun 3, 2021)

Did you end up getting enlarged plans? I really like the idea of just having it all laser cut out and sticking it together. But the ~65" is a little narrow for me I think.


----------



## Nickoli’s (Dec 10, 2021)

BaffinFlats said:


> Got too busy at work so a delay. I wanted to get curvature right on bottom so I cut ribs/bottom out of scrap steel to get measurements exact before going to Aluminum. Hope to start in AL in about a month. Good luck on yours!


Any updates? I want to build one of these @14/15ft super keen for some stats or progress


----------

