# Rod tubes for a Highsider? whats in a seat?



## HaMm3r (Dec 11, 2006)

> Any one have pics of retrofitting a highsider with rod tubes? Would like to add them to my gheenoe. I mean horizontal rod tubes.
> 
> I have found an idea of what to do but what is inside a molded seat. Would like to drill a large hold for a tube thru the seat and wanted to know what I am getting into, literally!
> 
> ...


I'll take some "in progress" pictures for you, as I go. I am hoping that light pressure with a hole saw will allow me to bore through the foam cleanly, and come out the other side. If not, then I'll cut both sides separately and chip thru until they meet.


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## Garry (Dec 14, 2006)

I did this with my 13' Gheenoe. It wasn't that hard, I drilled out both sides and chipped through the foam til they met. I just wish I used a little bigger pvc( my newer rods won't fit :'( ). As for fitting the pvc inside the holes, I mushroomed out both ends so there was no play inside.


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## skippy (Dec 30, 2006)

Sounds great hammr, this builds my confidence. Also Garry do you have a pic of the mushroomed pvc or how do you do it?


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## JIMMYZ750 (Feb 20, 2007)

Garry

What size pvc did you use or wish you had and how did you mushrrom the ends?
I assume you had to do at least one end while the tube was in the seat.

Thanks Jimmy


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## Gator87 (Apr 5, 2007)

> Would like to drill a large hold for a tube thru the seat and wanted to know what I am getting into, literally!


Skippy, HaMm3r hit is right on. It is full of foam. Both bench seats are full of foam. The foam has a outside seal that helps to keep water/moisture from rotting the foam. Unsure if you should really be concerned, but there is a chance that if you cut the foam and you do not re-seal it with expoxy or similar product you could reduce the life of the foam. Probably depends on how much moisture the inside bench is exposed to. Some will cut a hole in the seat so they can reach the foam and seal it. Then install a deck plate to cover the hole so they will have easy future access. Just my $.02. Probably not a concern. 

I have thought about adding rod tubes also, but the top of the center bench (the part that extends out to the side of the hull) seams to be in the way. I don't want to run my rods under the top of this center bench. I am afraid I will damage my rods. HaMm3r can correct me if I am wrong, but he is building that huge front deck that extends past the center bench. Therefore, he does not have to deal with the edges of the center bench getting in the way.


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## Gator87 (Apr 5, 2007)

> HaMm3r can correct me if I am wrong, but he is building that huge front deck that extends past the center bench. Therefore, he does not have to deal with the edges of the center bench getting in the way.


My bad. I just saw HaMm3r's updates. His front deck does not extend past the center bench. He built a center deck instead which goes from rear bench to center bench. Nice design.


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## HaMm3r (Dec 11, 2006)

> Any one have pics of retrofitting a highsider with rod tubes? Would like to add them to my gheenoe. I mean horizontal rod tubes.
> 
> I have found an idea of what to do but what is inside a molded seat. Would like to drill a large hold for a tube thru the seat and wanted to know what I am getting into, literally!


Skippy,
I started installing my rod tubes today, and as promised, I took a few pictures just for you...

Here's the first cut. Man, that was a scary moment...









Not too think, so it was easy to cut through.









Here's a close-up. The foam was nice and dry, but lots of leaves and stuff underneath.









And finally, here's a preview with the grommet fitted.









I tested my rod with the largest guides and longest distance from guide to handle butt, and it dropped right in.









One more large, and two more small tubes to cut.


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## JIMMYZ750 (Feb 20, 2007)

HaMmer3

One rod holder on each side?
Did you seal the foam inside in any way?
What size were the holes big/little and where did you get the grommets?

Looks really good!!!!!


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## HaMm3r (Dec 11, 2006)

JimmyZ,
There are going to be two tubes on each side. One large one, which you see in the pictures and one smaller one. The larger provides a 3 1/2" opening for larger rod guides, and the smaller will be 2 5/8".

The foam will be sealed by the conduit running in between the grommets, and the grommets will be 5200'ed to the bench. Shouldn't be any leaks.


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## swampfox (May 9, 2007)

heres a technique to flare the end of pvc for rod tubes. take a glass bottle(beer-wine-coke) with the right flare you want heat the end of the tube then push down onto the bottle. i have done this twice and have had good results. just dont cut the tube to lenght until you get the right flare. that you can just cut it off and try again without wasting the whole tube. then use 3m amrine sealant (white) to finish off around the hole. let me know if this works for you-good luck.


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## deerfly (Mar 10, 2007)

I would only add one thing. Empty beer bottles work best as long as you don't keep reusing the same bottle. Gotta get a fresh one ready for each flare. I'm not 100% sure why that is, but I heard it was some kind of physics thing with the tube temperature, specific gravity of beer bottle glass and how many flares you need to do in what time frame or something like that. Honestly, after the first few they all flare the same though.


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## Guest (Jun 7, 2007)

> I would only add one thing. Empty beer bottles work best as long as you don't keep reusing the same bottle. Gotta get a fresh one ready for each flare. I'm not 100% sure why that is, but I heard it was some kind of physics thing with the tube temperature, specific gravity of beer bottle glass and how many flares you need to do in what time frame or something like that. Honestly, after the first few they all flare the same though.


;D ;D ;D ;D  Which brand longnecks should I bring for your mods?


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## HaMm3r (Dec 11, 2006)

> I would only add one thing. Empty beer bottles work best as long as you don't keep reusing the same bottle. Gotta get a fresh one ready for each flare. I'm not 100% sure why that is, but I heard it was some kind of physics thing with the tube temperature, specific gravity of beer bottle glass and how many flares you need to do in what time frame or something like that. Honestly, after the first few they all flare the same though.


 [smiley=1-lmao.gif] I suspect if you get this delicate ratio of bottles to flares too far off, you'll end up cutting holes thru your hull instead of your bench! ;D


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## skippy (Dec 30, 2006)

hAMMR, GREAT pics! I've been so busy at work I'll take some time to study them this weekend. 

Also Gator its funny that we are thinking and testing the same thing. My "plan" was to cut the sides off of the seat support that attach to the sides of the hull. I was planning on posting if that would be ok structurally. Then I would use butt holders like on a beavertail and just epoxy them on but closer to the back seat than the middle seat. So can we cut them off or not and what do you think of that idea?

its late for me today so gnite!


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## JIMMYZ750 (Feb 20, 2007)

> JimmyZ,
> There are going to be two tubes on each side. One large one, which you see in the pictures and one smaller one. The larger provides a 3 1/2" opening for larger rod guides, and the smaller will be 2 5/8".
> 
> The foam will be sealed by the conduit running in between the grommets, and the grommets will be 5200'ed to the bench. Shouldn't be any leaks.


HaMmer

I fear you speaketh in code?

CONDUIT?=pvc?
GROMMETS=purchased where? or fabricated by multiple beer bottle method?
5200'd=OK got that one

Catchin on


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## HaMm3r (Dec 11, 2006)

> HaMmer
> 
> I fear you speaketh in code?
> 
> ...


JimmyZ,

The conduit is pvc, yes, but the electrical type, pre-bent, not the white plumbing stuff.

The grommets are actually marine cup holders. How's that for improvisation?


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## Gator87 (Apr 5, 2007)

> My "plan" was to cut the sides off of the seat support that attach to the sides of the hull. I was planning on posting if that would be ok structurally. Then I would use butt holders like on a beavertail and just epoxy them on but closer to the back seat than the middle seat. So can we cut them off or not and what do you think of that idea?


Skippy,
Cutting off the sides would certain solve the problem and create a little extra walking room, but I am not so sure it is a good idea. They add a lot of structural support to a thin boat that needs all the structural support in the middle it can get. When I modified my front deck, I added three additional bulkheads which are epoxied on all sides. I added a lot of weight, but I also significantly strenghened the sides of the noe. I probably could get away with cutting the sides, but the thought of it still scares me. I think I will let you be the guinea pig on that one. I would be interested in knowing what others think if you posted it. Other than the design used on the NMZ highsider built by Custom Gheenoe, I have never seen anyone actually cut them out on a highsider designed to have them. However, the support from front and rear decks may provide enough support. It is something to think about


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## skippy (Dec 30, 2006)

> > My "plan" was to cut the sides off of the seat support that attach to the sides of the hull. I was planning on posting if that would be ok structurally. Then I would use butt holders like on a beavertail and just epoxy them on but closer to the back seat than the middle seat. So can we cut them off or not and what do you think of that idea?
> 
> 
> Skippy,
> Cutting off the sides would certain solve the problem and create a little extra walking room, but I am not so sure it is a good idea.  They add a lot of structural support to a thin boat that needs all the structural support in the middle it can get.   When I modified my front deck, I added three additional bulkheads which are epoxied on all sides.  I added a lot of weight, but I also significantly strenghened the sides of the noe.  I probably could get away with cutting the sides, but the thought of it still scares me.  I think I will let you be the guinea pig on that one.  I would be interested in knowing what others think if you posted it.  Other than the design used on the NMZ highsider built by Custom Gheenoe, I have never seen anyone actually cut them out on a highsider designed to have them.  However, the support from front and rear decks may provide enough support.   It is something to think about


Appreciate the info, I'll start thinking about some way of removing the support but have a removable support or hinge flap or some other idea. Like you said there is no way we can jam our rods under that support but I def need some way of storing rods which i bring 4 and I hate rods sticking up on a boat in the way etc. 

Now i just need some time to think about it with so much going on sheesh.


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## HaMm3r (Dec 11, 2006)

> I have never seen anyone actually cut them out on a highsider designed to have them.


I recall a guy in NE Florida, who modified his highsider with a combination center console/platform. He cut out the supports and replaced them with a vertical panel that ran from the floor to the top of the gunnels. This allowed him to walk around the console. If I remember correctly, he was a guide in Ormond or St. Augustine...

I'll try to find him and his postings again.


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## HaMm3r (Dec 11, 2006)

Gatorjaw gets credit for digging out the thread I was talking about. 

Here it is...
http://www.customgheenoe.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2013


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## Gator87 (Apr 5, 2007)

> Gatorjaw gets credit for digging out the thread I was talking about.


I remember this post. The Mullet Militia. He has epoxied a small piece of wood from the rail to the hull for a little support. I would love to hear an update from the owner on how he likes his mods.


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