# Aluminum hull repair without welding.



## PG350

As stated in my previous post asking which motor??, I have a new old boat to restore.

The problem:
When I removed all the old foam from inside the hull I located about 20 spots where the corrosion has eaten through the hull. Some only a pin hole while three others are two inches across. I took the boat to a local shop to get an estimate and it is way too expensive. I want a solid fix so I have a new plan. 


I plan on prepping the areas, then using sealed/closed rivets, riveting 1/8 inch aluminum plates over the holes with West systems thickened G/Flex sandwiched between the hull and the new hull patch. WHat do you think???? 

WIll post pics when the rain finally stops. 

P.S.

The hull is 1/8 inch thick aluminum plate, fully welded hull.


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## anytide

you can try riveting the repair plates on the inside of the hull and maybe using a filler on the outside to level it?
do know if it(filler) will stay with hull flexing..

aluminum welding repair is a talent and $$$


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## PG350

I thought about that for a better look and less drag, but there are some spots where the plates need to be riveted across cross members and I would not be able to plate from the inside. 

This boat is not going to be a speed demon, but I am curious what kind of drag those 1/8 inch plates riveted to the bottom of the hull will create??? The is the family boat, roomy and very stable. 

P.S. 

My tiller arm you built is still working great.


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## timemachine

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/patch-holes-in-aluminum-boats-with-g-flex-epoxy/


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## anytide

> I thought about that for a better look and less drag, but there are some spots where the plates need to be riveted across cross members and I would not be able to plate from the inside.
> 
> This boat is not going to be a speed demon, but I am curious what kind of drag those 1/8 inch plates riveted to the bottom of the hull will create???    The is the family boat, roomy and very stable.
> 
> P.S.
> 
> My tiller arm you built is still working great.


yup, some epoxy/ rivets and let er eat....


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## WhiteDog70810

Was there brass hardware somewhere? That sounds like galvanic corrosion, but where is/was the other metal?

Nate


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## DuckNut

With that much repair to seal, I think you are wasting time, energy and money.

If you feel the need to repair this one, then I would reach out to your local line x dealer and have the smooth line x sprayed on.


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## Brett

I've repaired more'n my share of aluminum damage/leaky rivets on multiple hulls.
Always have a pack or two of aluminum brazing rods on the bench. Not welding rods.
Easy to accomplish and holds up well, even for an amateur.

http://durafix.com/


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## PG350

Thank You all for your input.  Those brazing rods are very tempting.   I was also looking at Muggyweld super alloy 5 rods.

Also there was no brass on the boat.  The foam was poured in the boat when it was made in 1968.   The foam blocked all the drain holes so there was water and gas trapped against the hull by the form for 47 years.


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## richg99

Any chance the bunks were Treated Lumber at one time or another? If the holes line up with the bunks...... you may have found the original source of the corrosion.

richg99


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## CrappieFisherman

For the pin holes, I recommend JB Weld. That is what I have always used for repairing small holes in Jon Boats, and I've never had a repair fail or leak. I've also used the JB Weld to seal around leaky rivets, and that seems to work.

As for the rivets causing speed issues, the small bumps caused by rivets are actually a good thing. The number one enemy of boat performance is drag, and, believe it or not, a smoother hull has a bit more drag then a slightly bumpier one. This is similar to the physics behind the dimples on a golf ball. Now, I'm not saying cover your entire hull in small dimples for extra speed, but I wouldn't worry about what a few bumps on the hull will do. Just my $0.02.


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## Capt. Eli Whidden

The dura fix brazing rods seems like the way to go. I wish I would of known about this before...

I've tried every adhesive/sealant/welding compound known to man over the years. The only one that ever lasts for any length of time is the silkaflex concrete fix.


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## PG350

Thank You all. Ill post pics of what I do so you can see. I would have posted better pics but it has been raining for three days in a row here.


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## DuckNut

After re-reading your original post - inspect your hull before you do anything to it.

If corrosion has eaten a hole in the hull that is 1/2" then you may be looking at a weakened area much larger and couple that with all of the holes the entire hull may be compromised beyond safe repair.


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## CurtisWright

Any non welded repair you make will only last for a few trips. Welded repairs tend to crack after some time as well. 

If it were mine I would scrap it. Keep the motor and the trailer. Aluminum is worth $.40 -$.50 per pound. Pick up a used J16 or some other inexpensive fiberglass hull.


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## PG350

I already have another small fiberglass fishing boat that I built on here.   I agree that it would be easier to just scrap it but I cannot see this boat go to the scrap yard.  I will at least give it a try.  Here is a picture of the largest hole and then there is a picture of a smaller hole that is repaired with sealed rivets, aluminum plate and g/flex.    I ground off all corrosion.   Scrubbed with vinegar then cleaned with acetone.


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## PG350

Here is the largest hole being patched.  This is alot more work than I thought and is time consuming. Cut plate, drill plate, grind surfaces, clean surfaces with anti corrosion, clean surfaces with acetone, drill hull, then get on your back, mix the epoxy, spread epoxy while trying to have it not drip on your face, rivet each hole (which like to not fit in the holes once you start???), hope your rivet gun does not jam, try not to get epoxy in your rivet gun, all while holding all this crap above your head (very exhausting) in the Florida sun just because you refuse to scrap an old boat. 

Then sit in AC and look at Microskiff


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## WhiteDog70810

The cool thing is that is doesn't have to make sense to anyone else if it makes you happy...

...but please buy a very good automatic bilge pump and replace the floatation foam (in a drier location). Riveted repairs usually weep, but that's no big deal. However, if something pops or fractures, you could see a lot of water very quickly.

Nate


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## CurtisWright

It will work for a little bit. What will happen is a little salt water will get in the crevice between the plates and corrode it from the inside out. This can happen where ever there is a void, or your sealant fails.


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## permitchaser

You forgot to mention hitting your head on the trailer while under your boat. I waxed my boat a couple of weeks ago and have the knots to prove it[ch128115]


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## jimsmicro

That patch is probably not going to last, because it's basically the sealant keeping water out, and the patch and rivets won't flex the same as the rest of the hull so it will eventually split the sealant and allow water in. It's not a quality repair job, and needs to be properly welded.


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## DuckNut

$0.70 per pound of aluminum.

This would almost be enough to get you another used boat and not waste all of that energy and band aids.


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## PG350

You are only used to flimsy riveted aluminum hulls. This hull is welded 1/8 inch and 3/16 inch aluminum plate. This hull does not flex. 
I respectfully disagree as I know many (ok, only 2) people that have used this repair on aluminum boats with great results. 
Corrosion is my main concern. 

Thanks for the input but there is only one way to find out who is right so Ill let you know. Scrap yards are for quitters ;D


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## timemachine

Some aluminum will corrode from the salt, other aluminum wont. 

If this were my boat, I would be looking at something gooey to coat the whole hull with. Something like 5200, but a coating. Maybe truck bed liner. Stickey, and stretchy.


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## anytide

> Here is the largest hole being patched.  This is alot more work than I thought and is time consuming.   Cut plate, drill plate, grind surfaces, clean surfaces with anti corrosion, clean surfaces with acetone, drill hull, then get on your back, mix the epoxy, spread epoxy while trying to have it not drip on your face, rivet each hole (which like to not fit in the holes once you start???), hope your rivet gun does not jam, try not to get epoxy in your rivet gun, all while holding all this crap above your head (very exhausting) in the Florida sun just because you refuse to scrap an old boat.
> 
> Then sit in AC and look at Microskiff



good place for a live well 

those repairs look pretty good  itll work fine !


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## DuckNut

1/8" and 3/16"

You have enough for a new boat. ;D


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## Guest

hay PG350. i have seen you from a flimsy rivited all blue boat on your all blue boat and i could not believe that their was another all blue boat in Charlotte harbor. well that makes 2 of us, any more all blue boats in Charlotte harbor on microskiff?


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## lemaymiami

Jericho said:


> hay PG350. i have seen you from a flimsy rivited all blue boat on your all blue boat and i could not believe that their was another all blue boat in Charlotte harbor. well that makes 2 of us, any more all blue boats in Charlotte harbor on microskiff?



Years ago I knew more than one small aluminum skiff owner that had the bottom glassed to seal all leaks and restore hull integrity.... Can't comment on durability or cost but it is worth looking into. The only draw back for for microskiffs is that you add weight...


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## PG350

Water test this week hopefully.


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## PG350

Jericho said:


> hay PG350. i have seen you from a flimsy rivited all blue boat on your all blue boat and i could not believe that their was another all blue boat in Charlotte harbor. well that makes 2 of us, any more all blue boats in Charlotte harbor on microskiff?


I think there is a boat just like mine in Punta Gorda but has a center console. Where are you located?"


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## Vertigo

Those pop rivets are going to corrode and act just like a zipper at some time in the near future. The OP may have his heart set on restoring this boat, but my vote would be to scrap it. There are plenty of more worthwhile projects.


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## PG350

Vertigo said:


> Those pop rivets are going to corrode and act just like a zipper at some time in the near future. The OP may have his heart set on restoring this boat, but my vote would be to scrap it. There are plenty of more worthwhile projects.



Well 5 months so far and I love this boat. The patches are solid as a rock. I rinse very well after each use. I used West systems G flex and it is great. I am glad I did not listen to the negative comments. This boat handles rough water like a champ and is super dry. I now have a kicker and can get around (run 6 mph using kicker) in a foot of water. Top speed with 55 hp is almost 30mph.


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## Vertigo

PG350 said:


> Well 5 months so far and I love this boat. The patches are solid as a rock. I rinse very well after each use. I used West systems G flex and it is great. I am glad I did not listen to the negative comments. This boat handles rough water like a champ and is super dry. I now have a kicker and can get around (run 6 mph using kicker) in a foot of water. Top speed with 55 hp is almost 30mph.


Great that it's working out for you, but 5 months is hardly time enough to determine how well the repairs will hold up. "Rust never sleeps".


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## PG350

14 Months of all salt water use. No sign of further corrosion. I rinse well after every use. 

Just FYI for someone looking to repair boat on the cheap, this works great. Maybe not last 20 years bur what really does?


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## PG350

Over 20 months now. Still holding strong. Just so people know in case they are in a similar situation. Very glad I did not listen to the ignorant comments on here. I guess you never really know until you try. No sign of new corrosion, completely sealed in with G/flex epoxy.


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## Mike C

Any pics of the boat in the water? 
I would be interested in how the entire boat looks. 
Love the old hulls


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## PG350




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## Mike C

Nice looking old boat. Great run about


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## CurtisWright

Good deal. Must be a solid hull. I would have never guessed it would last this long.


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## PG350

Looking back I realized you were all trying to help and appreciated the honest opinions. The boat is working great but I put alot of work into doing the repairs properly with great prep work. I also have a great rinse down after use.


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## devrep

your hard work saved that boat so even if it only lasts a few more years its a win.


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## PG350

devrep said:


> your hard work saved that boat so even if it only lasts a few more years its a win.


Sold this boat about a year ago to buy my Panga. I still see it going strong in Charlotte harbor. My patches worked great. Gflex is some good epoxy. I gave new owners full disclosure so they could keep an eye out for corrosion but still none reported as I completely coated everything in epoxy.


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## No Bait / Lures Only

My buddy owned an aluminum plate boat n accident spilled acid inside bilge n perforated hull. He cleaned n repaired with fiberglass patches and aluminum welding..


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