# 13' Gheenoe refurb



## Hemingwhy (Aug 2, 2017)

This 1987, 13' Gheenoe has been the singular best investment in recreation in my family. My younger brother bought it 30 years ago, but now it needs some attention. Originally, the primary mission of this boat had been fishing a small farm pond, but lately it has been for short-range crappie fishing on a big lake and some duck hunting and deer hunting trips, too.










Here is the problem, the transom is soft.










Since we need to do some work...we will take the time to make some new mods; nice swivel seats, rod holders and fish finder mount as well as drink holders and running power from back to front.


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

Sick gotta love the old gheenoes, they may not be pretty but they get the job done


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## noeettica (Sep 23, 2007)

Yes they do !

Don't need No 50 Hp Raptor !

Lowsider with a 5 horse ! love mine !!!


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## Hemingwhy (Aug 2, 2017)

GoGata and noettica, you're right, they are irreplaceable in certain situations. My brothers and I have big boats, but little boats are just fun!


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## Hemingwhy (Aug 2, 2017)

*The starting point*:
A new transom is needed. Seat benches need higher, swiveling seats because our knees are getting older. A decision was made to remove the livewell since it was not useful to how we use the boat. And, we need some drink holders. And, the gelcoat is pretty oxidized and has a few dings and cracks. And, since we want to feel like we have a new boat, we will probably repaint the interior.


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## Hemingwhy (Aug 2, 2017)

*A big leap forward*:
This project is definitely bigger than me. Some really awesome boat builders were nice enough to answer facebook messages, emails and voice mails, to help me find a source for Coosa board. A friend cut the boards on a table saw and routed corners for me. It is super easy to work with.

I have a transom and boards for the bench seats. We are all big people, we need support! The seat pedestals are upside down, they will get fit soon. The plan for the seat boards is to glass the bottom, drills holes for the pedestal mounting screws and install tee-nuts before they are glassed in.


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## Hemingwhy (Aug 2, 2017)

*A step away from sea-worthy*:
There was a hump in skin at the center of the transom, so I made a couple of dry runs to figure out how and where to place the clamps to make sure that there was good contact all over.










Cutting 1708 to fit and adding about two more inches to the length. The back of the transom board was wet out with chop stand mat, the 1708 on the transom was wet out. After they were just a little tacky, I mixed up some peanut butter viscosity resin with cabosil (or 406 - I can't remember), smeared it on and clamp it in place. It is curing as I type!!!









I would have taken pictures, but I was busy and even wearing gloves my fingers were too sticky to pick up my phone.

There is hope for the existing hull gelcoat. I little wet sanding with 600 grit is making it look pretty nice, I never thought there was any hope for it.


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## noeettica (Sep 23, 2007)

Nice !


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## Hemingwhy (Aug 2, 2017)

Tabbed in transom!
On such a small transom, the tabs almost overlap. There is a lot going on in terms of compound shapes, especially the top corners.





  








IMG_20170804_105442182




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Hemingwhy


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Aug 5, 2017








The live well area got glassed in, still a little (a lot of) work left to make it flush with the rest of the bottom.









*Questions that I now have are*:

Does the live well area need a false floor to support the hull?

Do the gunwales need support?

I have some ideas for creating accessory mounts for rod holders and a fish finder, I will have to mock those up and post them.


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## paint it black (Nov 3, 2007)

Looking good, man! It's going to be sweet once finished!

Considering that the live-well didn't tie into the hull sides from factory, I think you might be fine. However, I would probably add a false floor just for extra rigidity and comfort. You will be adding a considerate amount of extra weight, though.

A friend of mine has a highsider that he began to build out and just gave up on it, he's offered it to me a few times, after seeing this build, I think I got the "itch" (pun intended) to break out the old grinder and glass and take him up on that offer and build one out.


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## Hemingwhy (Aug 2, 2017)

The transom install is done. I still need to trim the excess fuzz off the top and clean that up. But, it is SOLID!


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## Hemingwhy (Aug 2, 2017)

*Hoping that carnuba wax is a good release agent!*

This is a top and bottom view of the boards that will go onto the seat benches. Once installed, there is no access to the underside of the boards, whatever fastener hardware needed has to be in place before the boards are glassed in.








I opted to use brad hole tee nuts and glue them in with epoxy. I scuffed the tee nuts with 60 grit and cleaned all surfaces well, then I used a plastic knife to dab a bit over each of the holes and pushed in the tee nuts. No problem.








The questionable part is that to make sure the tee nuts were flush and properly aligned, I prepped the 1/4-20 machine screws with carnuba wax and snugged them down. I hope this works! If not, at least I have good access to both sides. 

If all goes well, I will have a good boat with swivel seats in a couple of days.


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## Hemingwhy (Aug 2, 2017)

paint it black said:


> Looking good, man! It's going to be sweet once finished!
> 
> Considering that the live-well didn't tie into the hull sides from factory, I think you might be fine. However, I would probably add a false floor just for extra rigidity and comfort. You will be adding a considerate amount of extra weight, though.
> 
> A friend of mine has a highsider that he began to build out and just gave up on it, he's offered it to me a few times, after seeing this build, I think I got the "itch" (pun intended) to break out the old grinder and glass and take him up on that offer and build one out.


Thanks Paint! The live well did have a aluminum "tubes" that were riveted from the top of the well to the rub rail. I plan to add some accessory mounts for rod holders that should support the gunwales.


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## Finn Maccumhail (Apr 9, 2010)

Hemingwhy said:


> The transom install is done. I still need to trim the excess fuzz off the top and clean that up. But, it is SOLID!
> 
> View attachment 14061


Doesn't that new transom material need to extend all the way down to the floor? Maybe I'm overthinking it but it would seem to me that there would be some flex at the bottom when you hang an outboard with all the weight at the top.


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## Battfisher (Jan 18, 2016)

Finn Maccumhail said:


> Doesn't that new transom material need to extend all the way down to the floor? Maybe I'm overthinking it but it would seem to me that there would be some flex at the bottom when you hang an outboard with all the weight at the top.


I have a '79 highsider that my dad bought new, and although the transom is far more narrow, it's built the same way. It was even replaced by Gheen in the late 80's in the same configuration. No issues, although the biggest motor hung on it was a 2008 Merc 4s 8hp.


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## Hemingwhy (Aug 2, 2017)

*Nice cushy swivel seat!*
This is pretty exciting, we have been sitting on a low, cracked bench for many years. The carnuba wax worked great as a release agent, the plan from a previous post worked. This post starts with the end result and then shows the process, don't let me confuse you.








This is the top face of the 3/4" coosa board that will be the top of the bench. The backside is covered in two layers of 1708 and a third layer about the size as the pedestal base. 1/4"-20 tee nuts have already been expoxied in the bottom. I plugged the holes on top with ear plugs to keep resin out of the tee nuts, I will drill the plugs out after the board is glassed in. 








The rear bench has been bonded and glassed in. The front bench is in the process of bonding. The existing benches were not very flat. The were bonded with peanut butter epoxy. I used a combination of weights and screws to hold the board in place and pull the low areas of the existing bench into contact with the coosa board.








After bonding and before glassing, there was a gap because of the existing radius at the top of the existing bench. It was filled out with peanut butter with chop strand before glassing in.









*Question:*
Is one layer of 1708 on top of the bench enough?


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## Hemingwhy (Aug 2, 2017)

Finn Maccumhail said:


> Doesn't that new transom material need to extend all the way down to the floor?


I thought about doing that. But, this replacement is the same as the original, except that this is full thickness throughout. The orginal was 3/4" for the top 3" of the transom board, the rest was 3/8". The boat is only rated for 5hp, the issue you pointed out may be why.


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## Hemingwhy (Aug 2, 2017)

Finally! The 13' has two good pedestal seats and a solid transom. Now, I can move on to aesthetics and customizing this into a crappie fishing machine. A water test is planned for tomorrow, weather permitting, and I can figure out if a false floor is needed to stiffen up the boat.

To do list:
Gelcoat repair and buffing
Interior paint
Accessory fixtures and rod holders
New vinyl registration numbers
Vinyl graphics for boat name


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## Hemingwhy (Aug 2, 2017)

Wet test!
Transom and seats are solid. Seats are at a nice height and so much better than sitting on a bench. There was flex and "oil canning" in the floor of the boat. I'm looking into false floor options. But, I don't want to add much more weight. I'm thinking light.


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## predacious (Sep 1, 2016)

Finn Maccumhail said:


> Doesn't that new transom material need to extend all the way down to the floor? Maybe I'm overthinking it but it would seem to me that there would be some flex at the bottom when you hang an outboard with all the weight at the top.




you're correct !

the core,it should've covered the entire transom area - it doesn't.gheenoe,doesn't do it like that.making the core fit the area,that would've been the best approach

also,that raised piece,where the drain plug is,that's wood - it wasn't removed...

transom needs to be glassed to hull sides and bottom - this will provide maximum strength/support.should overlap at least 4" all around

looking at that,it's not supported well and not a very good repair.

doesn't show the lamination process of the core either - looking at the pictures,i seriously doubt the surface was prepped properly


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## predacious (Sep 1, 2016)

Hemingwhy said:


> *Nice cushy swivel seat!*
> This is pretty exciting, we have been sitting on a low, cracked bench for many years. The carnuba wax worked great as a release agent, the plan from a previous post worked. This post starts with the end result and then shows the process, don't let me confuse you.
> View attachment 14342
> 
> ...



those "t nuts" are not the best choice - there's a specific techniques that should be used,when using fasteners in composites - I've typed and explained that technique a few time


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## Hemingwhy (Aug 2, 2017)

Need some experienced help with a false floor.

During the wet test, there was some longitudinal flex in the floor of the boat.

The way I see my options now are:
1) Just live with the flex.
2) False floor the size of the blue area.
3) False floor the size of the red area.

I remember seeing a post where a flat sheet of glass was made from a few layers of 1708 and then epoxied in. That was done like option 2.


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## Hemingwhy (Aug 2, 2017)

predacious said:


> those "t nuts" are not the best choice - there's a specific techniques that should be used,when using fasteners in composites - I've typed and explained that technique a few time


I am open to wisdom and experience. I had to search some of your posts to find a mention of fasteners for composites, you wrote this "Composites are designed to be thrubolted and sleeved". A tee nut is a through-bolt fastener. It is a one-piece nut and washer that stays in place.


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## predacious (Sep 1, 2016)

Hemingwhy said:


> I am open to wisdom and experience. I had to search some of your posts to find a mention of fasteners for composites, you wrote this "Composites are designed to be thrubolted and sleeved". A tee nut is a through-bolt fastener. It is a one-piece nut and washer that stays in place.



you missed quite a few things - "sleeved",is one thing you missed...

a "t" nut is not a thru bolt


go back and search again ...

here's one : https://www.microskiff.com/threads/securing-fasteners-in-composites.45352/#post-360345


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## Hemingwhy (Aug 2, 2017)

A tee nut is a through bolt method. The laminates and core are sandwiched between the bolt on one side and the tee nut on the other.



predacious said:


> The mounting base of the grab bar in using is 3 1/2" I used a hole saw 4" and removed the upper skin and the coring- Filled the areas with the epoxy


That is a big volume of epoxy! What did you do to mitigate poor curing and damage to the surrounding area from excessive heat?


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## predacious (Sep 1, 2016)

Hemingwhy said:


> A tee nut is a through bolt method. The laminates and core are sandwiched between the bolt on one side and the tee nut on the other.
> 
> if you would like to learn from my experience,say so...if you're attempting to "challenge" me,please refrain...
> 
> ...


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## Hemingwhy (Aug 2, 2017)

Predacious, pm me your number. I'll call tomorrow.


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## Hemingwhy (Aug 2, 2017)

Just finished installing the rod holders!










So, the problem solving efforts to add rod holders led to the idea of an "Accessory fixture". The fixtures are made from coosa board, wrapped in 1708, contoured and bonded with thickened epoxy. The fixtures all have a common fastener hole pattern, so using a template to make a wood mount, a rod holder, fish finder... can be attached. The machine screws mounting the rod holder to the board are countersunk. The bottom two screws attach the board to the fixture.


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## Hemingwhy (Aug 2, 2017)

The inside got a coat and some touch up with Total Boat non skid topside paint. It went on easily with a roller. There may/probably will be painting of the exterior hull. But, this has been a lot of work so far. However, this little boat is ready for another 30 years.

The trailer has also been refurbished! It is now a drive on, and the tail lights on top of the posts not only keep them out of the water, it allows me to see where the trailer is in the rearview mirror.

Coosa board on seat benches.
Real post type swivel seats!
Folding drink holders.
Rod holders. (Added accessory fixtures to accept rod holders)
New foam under benches.
Removed live well.
Added partial false floor.
U-bolt through transom for safety chain to motor.
Topside paint.
Repaired some voids and delamination!


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## blueeye (Sep 12, 2012)

Nice job on everything. I wish I still had my gheenoe to restore. Sold it for $1000 and seems like such a waste.


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