# Outboard sacrificial anode broken bolt



## NativeBone (Aug 16, 2017)

So, what started out as a simple task, turned into something other than! I noticed my LU fluid was milky, figured since the seals required replacing and new fluid was necessary, I would go ahead and replace the sacrificial anode. While trying to remove the bolt I felt resistance immediately, so I broke out a can of PB and let it soak overnight. After soaking, I noticed the same resistance and decided to apply heat. Still a no go.... Eventually, the bolt snapped.

Had tto set up the LU on the drill press, locate the hole, drill out the broken bolt, and re-tap.


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

Oof, I do not envy you. Good job fixing it correctly instead of taking some kind of shortcut.

On a side note -- I thought most anodes were threaded, rather than the LU? Seems like threads in the anode threads might fail/seize more often, but would be much easier to repair if it were to ever happen.


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## NativeBone (Aug 16, 2017)

bryson said:


> Oof, I do not envy you. Good job fixing it correctly instead of taking some kind of shortcut.
> 
> On a side note -- I thought most anodes were threaded, rather than the LU? Seems like threads in the anode threads might fail/seize more often, but would be much easier to repair if it were to ever happen.


Thanks, @bryson Perhaps the design has changed OR the previous owners work? It's 1998 Nissan 25hp 2 Stroke. Although it required more time than I had anticipated, this issue should never come up again. During the reinstallation, I will apply some Permatex Lube anti-seize! ...... Tough engine


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

NativeBone said:


> Thanks, @bryson Perhaps the design has changed OR the previous owners work? It's 1998 Nissan 25hp 2 Stroke. Although it required more time than I had anticipated, this issue should never come up again. During the reinstallation, I will apply some Permatex Lube anti-seize! ...... Tough engine


No telling; it may just vary between mfgs, or maybe even by model?

Oh also, you might want to double check to make sure the anti-seize you use is conductive. Seems like it could be important on an anode.


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## NativeBone (Aug 16, 2017)

bryson said:


> No telling; it may just vary between mfgs, or maybe even by model?
> 
> Oh also, you might want to double check to make sure the anti-seize you use is conductive. Seems like it could be important on an anode.


Yes, agree! Permatex sells a copper anti-seize which would provide good electrical conductivity. If you can recommend something diff, let me know


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## Redfisher80 (Jul 17, 2017)

My 2011 Suzuki df60 did the same thing! I spent several hours removing the old bolt and I ended up re-tapping new threads. I also added never sieze to my new bolt and hopefully will never have that issue again. It’s not just with old motors, it’s with newer ones as well!

Kudos to doing it right!
Resfisher


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