# Mercury idle spark timing too high?



## cutrunner

You need to be doing this under a load.

Btw ive seen people use 35$ timing lights to tune 7 second cars just fine.


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## Dillusion

> You need to be doing this under a load.
> 
> Btw ive seen people use 35$ timing lights to tune 7 second cars just fine.


I was doing it with the LU submerged in a tank just as the manual says.


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## HaMm3r

Sounds about like mine, although I've never put a timing light on it. In gear, I idle around 690 rpm and in neutral about 780 once the engine is warmed up. There's a light "thunk" when I put it in gear, but it's not enough for me to worry about.

I'll be interested in the responses you get though.


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## Dillusion

It seems to be a trade off between the amount of times my idle RPM screw is turned and where my idle spark sits, but I can't get it to where it is 'as per the manual' at a spark of 6. Even if I screw the spark all the way out until it's not touching the spark arm, and turn in the idle speed screw 4-5 turnes, the spark is still at 11.

Could be bad coils? powerpack? stator magnets? lol



> Sounds about like mine, although I've never put a timing light on it. In gear, I idle around 690 rpm and in neutral about 780 once the engine is warmed up. There's a light "thunk" when I put it in gear, but it's not enough for me to worry about.
> 
> I'll be interested in the responses you get though.


Not hearing a 'thunk' or 'grinding clunk' when changing into gear is a good thing, it means the gears arent smacking together and you arent at too high of an RPM.


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## Creek Runner

> It seems to be a trade off between the amount of times my idle RPM screw is turned and where my idle spark sits, but I can't get it to where it is 'as per the manual' at a spark of 6. Even if I screw the spark all the way out until it's not touching the spark arm, and turn in the idle speed screw 4-5 turnes, the spark is still at 11.
> 
> Could be bad coils? powerpack? stator magnets? lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds about like mine, although I've never put a timing light on it. In gear, I idle around 690 rpm and in neutral about 780 once the engine is warmed up. There's a light "thunk" when I put it in gear, but it's not enough for me to worry about.
> 
> I'll be interested in the responses you get though.
> 
> 
> 
> Not hearing a 'thunk' or 'grinding clunk' when changing into gear is a good thing, it means the gears arent smacking together and you arent at too high of an RPM.
Click to expand...


;DThis is funny, did your manual tell you that! Even though you were a smart --- to me, I'll help you out a little.

No your coils, power pack, or stator isn't bad, and to answer your 1st questions it's very important to have the correct timing as incorrect timing can cause Pre-ignition and -detonation which both will cause a catastrophic internal failure .

Now since you're so good at reading you should be able to figure it out with the manual.


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## Dillusion

> It seems to be a trade off between the amount of times my idle RPM screw is turned and where my idle spark sits, but I can't get it to where it is 'as per the manual' at a spark of 6. Even if I screw the spark all the way out until it's not touching the spark arm, and turn in the idle speed screw 4-5 turnes, the spark is still at 11.
> 
> Could be bad coils? powerpack? stator magnets? lol
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sounds about like mine, although I've never put a timing light on it. In gear, I idle around 690 rpm and in neutral about 780 once the engine is warmed up. There's a light "thunk" when I put it in gear, but it's not enough for me to worry about.
> 
> I'll be interested in the responses you get though.
> 
> 
> 
> Not hearing a 'thunk' or 'grinding clunk' when changing into gear is a good thing, it means the gears arent smacking together and you arent at too high of an RPM.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> ;DThis is funny, did your manual tell you that! Even though you were a smart --- to me, I'll help you out a little.
> 
> No your coils, power pack, or stator isn't bad, and to answer your 1st questions it's very important to have the correct timing as incorrect timing can cause Pre-ignition and -detonation which both will cause a catastrophic internal failure .
> 
> Now since you're so good at reading you should be able to figure is out with the manual.
Click to expand...

I was being a smart ---, it was just the second time you quoted one of my posts after we decided my response was not the solution . I have thick skin so I didn't really care, I offered my rebuttle with a screenshot and a little spice :-*.

I cannot fix it with just the manual. I have read it front to back and I cannot solve the issue. Thats why I'm asking.


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## AfterHours2

Somebody get this guy a new Shadowcast ASAP! I know how you feel man. You just want everything to par so when the boat arrives no time on the water is lost. Between Cut and Creek, they should get you straightened out. Best of luck....


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## Brett

Setting the timing is part of the Timing/Sychronizing/Adjusting procedures in the shop manual.
After setting up the linkages per the manual, initial adjustment of the timing is completed using
the trigger link rod. Have to snap one end of the link rod sockets off the ball mount, then turn
the rod to lengthen or shorten overall length to obtain desired settings. Final timing settings
are done with the maximum timing screw and idle timing screws.

According to my manual, idle is 6° btdc and at 3500 rpm should be 25° btdc.

Note: on the electronic spark advance models, at low rpms, idle may auto adjust to 11° btdc


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## Dillusion

> Setting the timing is part of the Timing/Sychronizing/Adjusting procedures in the shop manual.
> After setting up the linkages per the manual, initial adjustment of the timing is completed using
> the trigger link rod. Have to snap one end of the link rod sockets off the ball mount, then turn
> the rod to lengthen or shorten overall length to obtain desired settings. Final timing settings
> are done with the maximum timing screw and idle timing screws.
> 
> According to my manual, idle is 6° btdc and at 3500 rpm should be 25° btdc.
> 
> Note: on the electronic spark advance models, at low rpms, idle may auto adjust to 11° btdc


Mine is a mechanical spark advance which has two screws, the directions you quoted above are for electronic spark models.

The mechanical spark advance models do not have an adjustable trigger link rod, as shown in photo on 2C-8.

I have two mechanical adjustment screws, one on the fuel pump and under under the flywheel.

I have the manual and that wording is from section 2C...

Problem is, I have done all that. My linkages are adjusted, my carb mixture screw is 1.5 out and my idle rpm screw is jus touching + 1 turn in.

I'm assuming that the mechanical spark advance models will auto adjust to 11 as well? What's the point of the manual saying 6 degrees +-1 then?


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## Brett

Nope, only the electronic controlled auto advances.
Sounds like one off the linkages/rods is slightly off.
The timing/synchronization has to be completed exactly as per the manual.
Not sure if you've got a worn nylon follower or connector that's allowing the change.


plus or minus means "close enough for government work."
It's not a race engine so a degree off doesn't hurt.


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## Dillusion

Here's a photo of what I'm talking about. Where the idle spark screw touches the spark arm, it's worn down allot in the plastic:

Under the screw (you cant see well) it's so worn down it's alomost like it's chipped off.










And heres a photo of both my spark screws for an idea of how they are currently set:


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## Dillusion

> Nope, only the electronic controlled auto advances.
> Sounds like one off the linkages/rods is slightly off.
> The timing/synchronization has to be completed exactly as per the manual.
> Not sure if you've got a worn nylon follower or connector that's allowing the change.
> 
> 
> plus or minus means "close enough for government work."
> It's not a race engine so a degree off doesn't hurt.


Manual states:

Shift Link Rod -- Adjust to length of 5-1/2 in. (13.9 cm) - DONE
Throttle Link Rod -- Adjust to length of 5-1/4 in. (13.3 cm) - DONE

Problem still persists...


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## Dillusion

> Y'er sure the under flywheel adjustment is correct?


No, I have not touched that one. That is the maximum timing screw for when at 3500RPM or more...?


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## Brett

Not sure what you've got going on. Sounds like you've done things per the manual.
Wondering about the what's taking place between the stator plate and the throttle linkages.


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## Dillusion

I have the engine running pretty smoothly... it speeds up and returns to idle without dieing. it will idle in a tank or on a hose for 15-25 minutes without dieing as well.

This spark problem is just annoying me, because if my spark is high that means I have something else turned too low-

I am experienced a 'clang' or 'knock' sound around my stator area with every revolution.

Any idea? Related?


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## Brett

Clang or knock is not a sound I want to hear from an outboard.
Something is out of position, possibly on the stator plate.
If one of the components is making contact with the underside of the flywheel
there's a good chance of breakage occurring, leading to a short in the electrical system.


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## Dillusion

> Clang or knock is not a sound I want to hear from an outboard.
> Something is out of position, possibly on the stator plate.
> If one of the components is making contact with the underside of the flywheel
> there's a good chance of breakage occurring, leading to a short in the electrical system.


Sorry it's not on every revolution, it's more of a 'click' sound and it's once every few seconds.

So I guess the flywheel cover is coming off tonight...

EDIT: On page 2A-7 of the manual,it states this:

_The spark timing is changed (advanced/retarded) by rotating the trigger coil, which
changes the trigger coil position in relation to the magnets in the center hub of the flywheel._

Could something be loose/off in the stator area?


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## Swamp

> Could something be loose/off in the stator area?


Different engine, but I had a charging coil screw back out on a 25 Johnson.  In hind site it had been "hitting" for a while.  It finally "caught" while it was at idle and I was getting rid of some "personal bilge water".  Rotated the ignition plate 90* and chewed up the fly wheel some.  While fixable (lucky), I was done for the day.  I was in Coot Bay and it was a long tow back in.  Stupid on my part.  So yes, something can be "off" I'd yank that fly wheel immediately if for nothing but having peace of mind.


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## Dillusion

Ok, I will definately check for that also.

Since the timing coil can affect the spark timing, I'm thinking the previous owner didnt install it correctly and it's in a position where the mechanical idle spark timing screw somehow does nothing to change it.

Last night I messed with it some more, and it seems that backing out the idle screw to retard timing does NOT retard the timings, only makes the engine RPM lower and die out.


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## Creek Runner

> Ok, I will definately check for that also.
> 
> Since the timing coil can affect the spark timing, I'm thinking the previous owner didnt install it correctly and it's in a position where the mechanical idle spark timing screw somehow does nothing to change it.
> 
> Last night I messed with it some more, and it seems that backing out the idle screw to retard timing does NOT retard the timings, only makes the engine RPM lower and die out.


Didn't you post in another thread you just rebuit the engine? http://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1354767678/0#0

How did you rebuild it with out taking the timing base off? So if it's installed wrong wouldn't you be the one who installed it wrong?

If it's has a proper sync & link what do you think is happing?*Q* Do you know what happens when you retard the timing?*A* Motors tend to drop rpms and stall. 

What year is your motor?


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## Dillusion

> Ok, I will definately check for that also.
> 
> Since the timing coil can affect the spark timing, I'm thinking the previous owner didnt install it correctly and it's in a position where the mechanical idle spark timing screw somehow does nothing to change it.
> 
> Last night I messed with it some more, and it seems that backing out the idle screw to retard timing does NOT retard the timings, only makes the engine RPM lower and die out.
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't you post in another thread you just rebuit the engine?   http://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1354767678/0#0
> 
> How did you rebuild it with out taking the timing base off? So if it's installed wrong wouldn't you be the one who installed it wrong?
> 
> If it's has a proper sync & link what do you think is happing?*Q* Do you know what happens when you retard the timing?*A* Motors tend to drop rpms and stall.
> 
> What year is your motor?
Click to expand...

I did not 'rebuild' the engine in the classical sense of the term I guess. I simple replaced everything I could that was an 'open and replace' such as the carb/thermostat/water pump/reeds/etc. 

I have not removed the flywheel or cover yet at all.

I know what happens when you retard the timing, but the spark degree did not change, it stayed at 11-12 while the motor died out. I was expecting it to drop while the motor was losing RPM.

The motor is a 2004


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## HaMm3r

Matty, on our Mercs the trigger is about the only moving part under the flywheel. It fits into a groove around the crankshaft and is held in place by the stator assembly. It is made from plastic and I suppose it could get broken/cracked, but unless it's really damaged I couldn't see it touching the flywheel.

Similarly, unless your stator is loose neither it or the trigger should be flopping around under there.

Before you pull the flywheel, take a close look under the flywheel and see if any of the wires coming from the stator are making contact with the flywheel. If any look close, spin the motor by hand and watch to see if contact occurs. Mine has a plastic mesh over the wiring that has a distinct "click/crunch" sound when touched, so I could see that causing the click you're hearing. Also, my wires were actually touching ever so slightly before I cinched them down.

Have you removed the pull-start housing and run the motor without it on yet? I wouldn't be surprised at all if the click is coming from something in the pull-start mechanism. That seems the more likely candidate IMO.


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## jms

> Ok, I will definately check for that also.
> 
> Since the timing coil can affect the spark timing, I'm thinking the previous owner didnt install it correctly and it's in a position where the mechanical idle spark timing screw somehow does nothing to change it.
> 
> Last night I messed with it some more, and it seems that backing out the idle screw to retard timing does NOT retard the timings, only makes the engine RPM lower and die out.
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't you post in another thread you just rebuit the engine?   http://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1354767678/0#0
> 
> How did you rebuild it with out taking the timing base off? So if it's installed wrong wouldn't you be the one who installed it wrong?
> 
> If it's has a proper sync & link what do you think is happing?*Q* Do you know what happens when you retard the timing?*A* Motors tend to drop rpms and stall.
> 
> What year is your motor?
Click to expand...

i read the same thing ? :-?
changing some parts isn't a rebuild by any stretch of the imagination - "rebuild" that involves alot more than swapping out a thermostat...

interesting...

you're asking on a different site,for a flywheel puller ??


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## Dillusion

> Ok, I will definately check for that also.
> 
> Since the timing coil can affect the spark timing, I'm thinking the previous owner didnt install it correctly and it's in a position where the mechanical idle spark timing screw somehow does nothing to change it.
> 
> Last night I messed with it some more, and it seems that backing out the idle screw to retard timing does NOT retard the timings, only makes the engine RPM lower and die out.
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't you post in another thread you just rebuit the engine?   http://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1354767678/0#0
> 
> How did you rebuild it with out taking the timing base off? So if it's installed wrong wouldn't you be the one who installed it wrong?
> 
> If it's has a proper sync & link what do you think is happing?*Q* Do you know what happens when you retard the timing?*A* Motors tend to drop rpms and stall.
> 
> What year is your motor?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> i read the same thing ?  :-?
> changing some parts isn't a rebuild by any stretch of the imagination - "rebuild" that involves alot more than swapping out a thermostat...
> 
> interesting...
> 
> you're asking on a different site,for a flywheel puller ??
Click to expand...

Yes I wanted to pull the flywheel to look at the stator components


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## jms

perhaps you should make the smart play: take the engine to a qualified individual/shop and have it repaired properly...gonna save you from throwing more parts at it...


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## Dillusion

> perhaps you should make the smart play: take the engine to a qualified individual/shop and have it repaired properly...gonna save you from throwing more parts at it...


I would rather learn for the future, regardless of cost. The $90 per hour a 'qualified' individual would be charging me, I could spend on parts and tools to fix it in the future or other outboards.

I try not to 'throw parts at it', I try and diagnose the issue just as a shop would.


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## jms

> perhaps you should make the smart play: take the engine to a qualified individual/shop and have it repaired properly...gonna save you from throwing more parts at it...
> 
> 
> 
> I would rather learn for the future, regardless of cost. The $90 per hour a 'qualified' individual would be charging me, I could spend on parts and tools to fix it in the future or other outboards.
> 
> I try not to 'throw parts at it', I try and diagnose the issue just as a shop would.
Click to expand...

kinda like a rebuild huh ?


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## Dillusion

> perhaps you should make the smart play: take the engine to a qualified individual/shop and have it repaired properly...gonna save you from throwing more parts at it...
> 
> 
> 
> I would rather learn for the future, regardless of cost. The $90 per hour a 'qualified' individual would be charging me, I could spend on parts and tools to fix it in the future or other outboards.
> 
> I try not to 'throw parts at it', I try and diagnose the issue just as a shop would.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> kinda like a rebuild huh ?
Click to expand...

Sure. Define it however you want.


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## Creek Runner

Okay so here you go, remember the next time you want to point out what the Manual  say's to a certified technician. 
The problem is not with the motor but with the person trying to fix it. I'll tell you like my dad told me when I was 16, 1st week out of MMI school. Couldn't figure something out, asked him to come and look at it. He said

" Buy you a book send you to school and still got to do it for you. After he fixed it in about 2 mins (while I proceed to tell him that's not how you do that) , he looked at me and said Son there are some things your not going to learn from a book."

So here you go: Proper way to set the timing on your engine; and I know what the book say's and I don't care.

1st are you using the correct timing point indicator? If so then proceed.

You must find TDC on #1 this is done using a Dial indicator, mark the flywheel at 0 degree. Since you're probably using a non adjustable timing light, find 6 degree ATDC and mark (I use white out, brush kind) disengage the your linkage from the timing base. Start your engine adjust your trigger base to 6 degrees mark turn your timing screw in until your able to use the timing screw to adjust the idle timing, reconnect your linkages disregarding the Manual measurements these are guidelines not rules.  To find WOT timing the boat will need to be under load running, and there is no way your turning 3500rpm in a garbage can at the house in gear without throwing all the water out, unless you have a full blown test tank.

Keep in mind every motor is a little different and your timing may need to be a little higher or lower range should be 4-8degrees at idle. 

Personally I don't think there was anything wrong with the timing when you started, other than operator error on how to read your timing.

Good Luck and let me know how it goes.

BTW it would take me about 5min to set your idle timing. so 1/2 hour labor from a shop like Kreepa said might not be a bad idea.


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## Creek Runner

> Ok, I will definately check for that also.
> 
> Since the timing coil can affect the spark timing, I'm thinking the previous owner didnt install it correctly and it's in a position where the mechanical idle spark timing screw somehow does nothing to change it.
> 
> Last night I messed with it some more, and it seems that backing out the idle screw to retard timing does NOT retard the timings, only makes the engine RPM lower and die out.
> 
> 
> 
> Didn't you post in another thread you just rebuit the engine?   http://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1354767678/0#0
> 
> How did you rebuild it with out taking the timing base off? So if it's installed wrong wouldn't you be the one who installed it wrong?
> 
> If it's has a proper sync & link what do you think is happing?*Q* Do you know what happens when you retard the timing?*A* Motors tend to drop rpms and stall.
> 
> What year is your motor?
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> i read the same thing ?  :-?
> changing some parts isn't a rebuild by any stretch of the imagination - "rebuild" that involves alot more than swapping out a thermostat...
> 
> interesting...
> 
> you're asking on a different site,for a flywheel puller ??
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> [glow=yellow,2,300]Yes I wanted to pull the flywheel to look at the stator components
Click to expand...

You don't need a puller to get your flywheel off. You can do it the old school way.


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## Dillusion

I tried making a ******* wood puller and I tried using brute strength, but I'm not manly enough . Didn't budge.


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## Creek Runner

Back the nut off until it is flush with the crank shaft then 1/3 additional turn

Take a pry bar and put it underneath the flywheel; only the flywheel use the block to apply upward pressure on the flywheel lots of pressure.

Use about a 3lb sledge hammer and hit the flywheel nut square while applying pressure, this takes 2 people might take one or 2 hits but the flywheel will pop up. 

Remove the nut and take it off .

Simple take about 2 min. but this isn't your problem, see my post on how to set your timing set it and go fish. Quit looking for things wrong, as Brett would say if it ain't broke don't fix it.


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## Dillusion

> Back the nut off until it is flush with the crank shaft then 1/3 additional turn
> 
> Take a pry bar and put it underneath the flywheel; only the flywheel use the block to apply upward pressure on the flywheel lots of pressure.
> 
> Use about a 3lb sledge hammer and hit the flywheel nut square while applying pressure, this takes 2 people might take one or 2 hits but the flywheel will pop up.
> 
> Remove the nut and take it off .
> 
> Simple take about 2 min. but this isn't your problem, see my post on how to set your timing set it and go fish. Quit looking for things wrong, as Brett would say if it ain't broke don't fix it.


I'm going with this, lol. After all.

I tuned it again. The carb and idle screw are at default settings, the engine turns on in one try with the choke out...idles at 700-900rpm, doesnt slam the LU gears, and doesn't stall.

Works fine, I'm done fucking with it.

...idle spark is still at 12 though!


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## Creek Runner

> Back the nut off until it is flush with the crank shaft then 1/3 additional turn
> 
> Take a pry bar and put it underneath the flywheel; only the flywheel use the block to apply upward pressure on the flywheel lots of pressure.
> 
> Use about a 3lb sledge hammer and hit the flywheel nut square while applying pressure, this takes 2 people might take one or 2 hits but the flywheel will pop up.
> 
> Remove the nut and take it off .
> 
> Simple take about 2 min. but this isn't your problem, see my post on how to set your timing set it and go fish. Quit looking for things wrong, as Brett would say if it ain't broke don't fix it.
> 
> 
> 
> I'm going with this, lol. After all.
> 
> I tuned it again. The carb and idle screw are at default settings, the engine turns on in one try with the choke out...idles at 700-900rpm, doesnt slam the LU gears, and doesn't stall.
> 
> Works fine, I'm done fucking with it.
> 
> ...idle spark is still at 12 though!
Click to expand...

No it's not your just reading it wrong, but leave it alone and go fish.


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## Dillusion

Staring at the timing mark with a timing light pointed at it and looking at what number is aligned with the timing mark is wrong?


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## jms

> perhaps you should make the smart play: take the engine to a qualified individual/shop and have it repaired properly...gonna save you from throwing more parts at it...
> 
> 
> 
> I would rather learn for the future, regardless of cost. The $90 per hour a 'qualified' individual would be charging me, I could spend on parts and tools to fix it in the future or other outboards.
> 
> I try not to 'throw parts at it', I try and diagnose the issue just as a shop would.
Click to expand...


"So, I found a used merc 25 that idles really rough and had a mean kick-to-the-side during said rough idle... 

I brought it home and replaced everything I could drop in. New carb kit, new impeller, new LU oil, sprayed it down, waxed it, etc. 

I had it working great until I noticed the idle spark timing was stuck at 11. This was yesterday, and I said F-it, whatever, it works fine. 

Today I go to turn it on, and it won't idle. I can get it to fast idle fine at 1200 rpm and then ramp up the RPM's with the tiller handle...but then when I go back to neutral it dies out. 

I looked at my fuel filter and I found pieces of the yellow interior lining of my portable fuel hose. I have replaced the hose with new black automotive fuel line and cleaned the fuel filter. 

Still no worky."


you typed this,right ??

you also typed you were "rebuilding" this engine,also claimed this "did not 'rebuild' the engine in the classical sense of the term I guess. I simple replaced everything I could that was an 'open and replace' such as the carb/thermostat/water pump/reeds/etc"

you really need to keep the story straight - first you replaced the carb,now,you "rebuilt" it ?? which story is the right one ??

tell me again how changing the gear oil in the lower unit is going to correct the rough running problem ??

this is why i suggested to you,to take the motor to a qualified individual/shop - it's pretty clear,you're in way over your head.
certain individuals do not have the ability to honestly evaluate ther skills/knowledge base,these people tend to overestimate their abilities - i can honestly state,i believe you fall into that class...


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## cutrunner

Easy now..


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## Dillusion

> perhaps you should make the smart play: take the engine to a qualified individual/shop and have it repaired properly...gonna save you from throwing more parts at it...
> 
> 
> 
> I would rather learn for the future, regardless of cost. The $90 per hour a 'qualified' individual would be charging me, I could spend on parts and tools to fix it in the future or other outboards.
> 
> I try not to 'throw parts at it', I try and diagnose the issue just as a shop would.
> 
> Click to expand...
> 
> 
> "So, I found a used merc 25 that idles really rough and had a mean kick-to-the-side during said rough idle...
> 
> I brought it home and replaced everything I could drop in. New carb kit, new impeller, new LU oil, sprayed it down, waxed it, etc.
> 
> I had it working great until I noticed the idle spark timing was stuck at 11. This was yesterday, and I said F-it, whatever, it works fine.
> 
> Today I go to turn it on, and it won't idle. I can get it to fast idle fine at 1200 rpm and then ramp up the RPM's with the tiller handle...but then when I go back to neutral it dies out.
> 
> I looked at my fuel filter and I found pieces of the yellow interior lining of my portable fuel hose. I have replaced the hose with new black automotive fuel line and cleaned the fuel filter.
> 
> Still no worky."
> 
> 
> you typed this,right ??
> 
> you also typed you were "rebuilding" this engine,also claimed this "did not 'rebuild' the engine in the classical sense of the term I guess. I simple replaced everything I could that was an 'open and replace' such as the carb/thermostat/water pump/reeds/etc"
> 
> you really need to keep the story straight - first you replaced the carb,now,you "rebuilt" it ?? which story is the right one ??
> 
> tell me again how changing the gear oil in the lower unit is going to correct the rough running problem ??
> 
> this is why i suggested to you,to take the motor to a qualified individual/shop - it's pretty clear,you're in way over your head.
> certain individuals do not have the ability to honestly evaluate ther skills/knowledge base,these people tend to overestimate their abilities - i can honestly state,i believe you fall into that class...
Click to expand...

You need better reading comprehension.

I never stated I bought a new carb, I bought a carb kit. Those are different things.

I did state I rebuilt the engine, and I clarified that it was not a full rebuild as some would think, it was merely a drop in replacement of what kits I knew we're easy to do.

But that's not enough for you.

I honestly think you should stick to fiberglass and stop commenting in technical outboard threads when you have nothing positive nor of value to contribute.

Do yourself a favor and stop posting in these threads. Thanks.

Sorry cut, kreepa needs to cut his crap out.


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