# Trailer Refurb Questions



## derf1865 (Sep 22, 2018)

My trailer desperately needs some work, new leaf springs, hubs, lights, U-Bolts; all of which I think I can do rather easily. I have lights and wiring already ordered and on hand, and think the overall condition does not warrant me buying a new trailer, but a couple parts concern me. Haven't done an overhaul like this, so some input on the overall condition and any advice would be greatly appreciated, wouldn't want to put in the work if some structural issues may rear their ugly head down the road. I have attached some pictures, the main concern is the 4th picture, where the rear cross beam connects to the main left side of the trailer. The bead of the welding is corroded and cracked, not sure if it can be repaired or if it is anything to even worry about.

The trailer is under a gheenoe, and I don't tow it on long trips (although that would be nice) mainly just around Pensacola, so that bit of context may help with gauging the life.

Haven't used it in months since I started to get concerned with the condition and life got in the way, so don't judge me on the corroded leaf springs haha.




















































Thinking a new axle to take care of the hubs, bearings, etc and new u-bolts and run the wiring at the least, but would also be into taking a wire wheel to the whole trailer and painting, but I am not sure if that is the best idea or not, hoping some with experience can point me in the right direction. Boat is launched in saltwater mostly. 

I appreciate any advice you can lend.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

I’d get a wire wheel to those rusted welds and make sure they are solid. If not, I’d cut the rusted parts off, re-weld and have the frame hot dipped/galvanized at a trailer shop. Painting those rusty welds will only buy time. Trust me, even ospho and cold galvanized paint will just mask the rust that will show through again later especially if you dunk it in saltwater.


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## fishnpreacher (Jul 28, 2018)

What Smackdaddy said....definitely grind out the cracked weld and have it rewelded. 
If you replace leafs and axle, then hot dip the frame, you'll not be far from a new trailer condition wise.


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## derf1865 (Sep 22, 2018)

Thank you smack and fishnpreacher. Hoping all of the work it needs doesn't add up to being the cost of a new trailer... I'll check on the galvanizing and see what it will run me.


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## derf1865 (Sep 22, 2018)

Just got a quote for galvanizing, $450, so I may not go that route. At a certain point, it would just be smarter to buy another. Thinking I will repair all of the necessities and roll from there for the time being. Definitely need to fix the weld on the frame though.


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## Gogittum (May 24, 2020)

I agree with the above comments but would like to add some in a different area.










Just a few days ago, I bought an older tin boat on a trailer that's much like yours. Price was right (cheap ! ! !) and I knew it needed work, so brought it home. It's basically sound but the peripherals need work. (wait'll you see the tire pictures from after I got it home. I was very lucky) 

Biggest thing in both our boats is the height above ground, which makes for awkward launching from shallow ramps. My springs are badly rusted, too and have a full 7" of space between top of axle and bottom of frame. 

New springs are only $18 each so found some that are the correct length and width but specs show just 4" clearance. They'll be here Thursday. I hate those little tiny, badly rusted 8" diameter wheels/ 15" diameter tires, so immediately bought new ones that are 20" diameter. Didn't help the height at all, but I feel that it'll tow better and they'll last longer. My opinion.

My biggest bug on light boat trailers is that every one I've ever looked at has springs designed for a 2,000# boat. My little tin boat weighs less than 200#. Full towing weight will be less than 500#. Those heavy springs beat the boat to death on rough roads and they bounce the trailer all over the place. I'm in the habit now of removing leaves of springs to where only the main leaf is left - still too heavy for most, but much better.

Next, I took the metal bunk brackets right out from under and set the carpeted boards flat, directly on the trailer frame. Mounting, with proper support and slightly bow up attitude for the boat (for water drainage) was interesting and took a bit of effort but is done.....and lowered it nearly 6".

An unexpected bonus, discovered during this process was finding that this "Turtle" trailer is a tilt trailer, which should help a lot with launching. Never heard of that brand before but it seems well enuf made.

I'll try it like that and it should be OK, but if push comes to shove I'll install a drop axle for about $150.

I'm taking pictures as I go and in the near future I'll be publishing the story on here and on the TinBoat forum. Many other changes planned - e.g. I'm partway thru mounting a foldable grab bar - my design.


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## Xcapnjoe (Jun 5, 2013)

Not demo and repair related, but I've been using a bee's wax and WD40 combo on my trailers for many years with great success.
I buy WD40 in the gallon can. I add a puck of bee's wax in pieces to a squirt bottle of WD. Shake it for a couple of days until the wax dissolves then spray it on everything that can rust.

I learned it from my gunsmith friend Bob. It's wonderful for preserving firearms. The added beauty is what it does to trailers.
That WD evaporates leaving a waxy coating. I promise it'll extend the life of your new springs and fittings or I'll buy you a bottle of Pinhook.

Don't get it on your gear. It eats soft plastics and rubber.


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## derf1865 (Sep 22, 2018)

Gogittum said:


> I agree with the above comments but would like to add some in a different area.
> 
> View attachment 167658
> 
> ...


Man you really just hit me with some good knowledge bombs and things I have not considered. When I really get to busting my knuckles on it, I am going to have to see if your approach will apply to my case on the springs and lowering the bunks, etc.; although, since I suck and got rid of my truck, I kind of need the clearance since I have a midsize SUV for the time being. I'd have to either have spare lower units on hand, or become adept to welding skegs if I lower the boat much more lol. 

Really appreciate the advice and I will update when I start my project. I'll also keep an eye out for your build threads, they will be awesome; really interested in seeing how that grab bar turns out!


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## derf1865 (Sep 22, 2018)

Xcapnjoe said:


> Not demo and repair related, but I've been using a bee's wax and WD40 combo on my trailers for many years with great success.
> I buy WD40 in the gallon can. I add a puck of bee's wax in pieces to a squirt bottle of WD. Shake it for a couple of days until the wax dissolves then spray it on everything that can rust.
> 
> I learned it from my gunsmith friend Bob. It's wonderful for preserving firearms. The added beauty is what it does to trailers.
> ...


This is an awesome tip and I will definitely try it on my trailer and all shotguns/rilfes, which seem to rust if you look at them wrong if they aren't hit with good maintenance. Also, just looked up Pinhook, I will also be trying that, have not heard of it before now, somehow. 

Many thanks.


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## Xcapnjoe (Jun 5, 2013)

derf1865 said:


> This is an awesome tip and I will definitely try it on my trailer and all shotguns/rilfes, which seem to rust if you look at them wrong if they aren't hit with good maintenance. Also, just looked up Pinhook, I will also be trying that, have not heard of it before now, somehow.
> 
> Many thanks.


One taste and you'll know I don't joke about trailer maintenance or shotgun care.
It's a magic potion.

Most welcome. "Those that know don't close they doors on those that don't know."
One of my favorite bands.


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## Xcapnjoe (Jun 5, 2013)

Xcapnjoe said:


> One taste and you'll know I don't joke about trailer maintenance or shotgun care.
> It's a magic potion.
> 
> Most welcome. "Those that know don't close they doors on those that don't know."
> One of my favorite bands.


This is, in my estimation, the very best Gourds song ever.

Cowboy brag talk on demand.

Burn The Honeysuckle.


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## NealXB2003 (Jun 8, 2020)

Another thought..... anyplace nearby that can powder coat the frame. Local guy here in TN can do trailers up to 14' I believe (has to fit in the oven).


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## derf1865 (Sep 22, 2018)

Xcapnjoe said:


> One taste and you'll know I don't joke about trailer maintenance or shotgun care.
> It's a magic potion.
> 
> Most welcome. "Those that know don't close they doors on those that don't know."
> One of my favorite bands.


Any band that can cover a Snoop Dogg song and then make tunes like that is cool in my book haha. Thanks again!


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## derf1865 (Sep 22, 2018)

NealXB2003 said:


> Another thought..... anyplace nearby that can powder coat the frame. Local guy here in TN can do trailers up to 14' I believe (has to fit in the oven).


I'll look into that, didn't even think about it. Preciate it.


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## Gogittum (May 24, 2020)

derf1865 said:


> Man you really just hit me with some good knowledge bombs and things I have not considered. When I really get to busting my knuckles on it, I am going to have to see if your approach will apply to my case on the springs and lowering the bunks, etc.; although, since I suck and got rid of my truck, I kind of need the clearance since I have a midsize SUV for the time being. I'd have to either have spare lower units on hand, or become adept to welding skegs if I lower the boat much more lol.


Not sure what you mean by "need the clearance." The only effect it will have on your tow vehicle is in hitch height, which can be corrected to level the trailer by using a hitch insert with different offset. I'm a real bug for towing level, esp. with heavier trailers, but also for appearance. 

For banging the skeg, tilt the motor when towing and it's a non-issue. I've used a transom saver in the past with good results, but they aren't always easy to hook up or adapt to a specific boat/trailer and I don't much like fussing under a wet and dripping motor and boat. Plus, my aged knees hurt.

What I do now is wrap a ratchet strap around the rear seat and loop it over the tilted motor, then cinch it down snugly. Motor goes nowhere, transom is protected and it's quick and easy. "So far," I haven't had a ratchet strap stolen. So far. Doesn't look quite as sexy, but works fine. Maybe use a neutral colored strap ?? 😀


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## derf1865 (Sep 22, 2018)

Gogittum said:


> Not sure what you mean by "need the clearance." The only effect it will have on your tow vehicle is in hitch height, which can be corrected to level the trailer by using a hitch insert with different offset. I'm a real bug for towing level, esp. with heavier trailers, but also for appearance.
> 
> For banging the skeg, tilt the motor when towing and it's a non-issue. I've used a transom saver in the past with good results, but they aren't always easy to hook up or adapt to a specific boat/trailer and I don't much like fussing under a wet and dripping motor and boat. Plus, my aged knees hurt.
> 
> What I do now is wrap a ratchet strap around the rear seat and loop it over the tilted motor, then cinch it down snugly. Motor goes nowhere, transom is protected and it's quick and easy. "So far," I haven't had a ratchet strap stolen. So far. Doesn't look quite as sexy, but works fine. Maybe use a neutral colored strap ?? 😀


Yeah I'm dumb and meant to reply to my last post saying the only thing the vehicle impacts is hitch height after thinking more about it. Don't know what I was thinking haha. The only time I've hit the skeg was manually moving my rig from my carport where I wash the boat/flush the motor (I have an odd yard set up, live in an old neighborhood near a navy base where the lots are all small and they were grandfathered into not having to put spigots in the backyard) and I forgot to tilt the motor and it bumped the lip of the driveway, I've only forgotten to do that once haha, no damage thankfully. I do hate having to go really slow pulling into some gas stations, etc. to ensure the hitch does not make contact. I've thought about the strap, but the motor stays in one position pretty well when in tilt lock (9.9 Merc 2-stroke) but I hate the way the tiller arm has to rest with an extension on, I need to get a better extension that is easier to take on/off so I don't have that issue.

So many quirks to work through, this is my first boat and I have has a lot of "experiential learning" to say the least lol.


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## Gogittum (May 24, 2020)

derf1865 said:


> Yeah I'm dumb and meant to reply to my last post saying the only thing the vehicle impacts is hitch height after thinking more about it. Don't know what I was thinking haha. The only time I've hit the skeg was manually moving my rig from my carport where I wash the boat/flush the motor (I have an odd yard set up, live in an old neighborhood near a navy base where the lots are all small and they were grandfathered into not having to put spigots in the backyard) and I forgot to tilt the motor and it bumped the lip of the driveway, I've only forgotten to do that once haha, no damage thankfully. I do hate having to go really slow pulling into some gas stations, etc. to ensure the hitch does not make contact. I've thought about the strap, but the motor stays in one position pretty well when in tilt lock (9.9 Merc 2-stroke) but I hate the way the tiller arm has to rest with an extension on, I need to get a better extension that is easier to take on/off so I don't have that issue.
> 
> So many quirks to work through, this is my first boat and I have has a lot of "experiential learning" to say the least lol.


Some years ago, in Port Angeles, WA, I bought a new Honda 30hp 4 stroke for my 15 ft Gregor side console and immediately took off for an around-the-continent trip. (14,000 miles in 9 weeks in '03)

I got as far as the UP in Michigan and noticed that the motor was in down position - I trailered with it up. Checked further and the pin that locks it up had sheared right off from the bouncing - remember what I said about springs ?? 










Lesson Learned. Now I do it this way. Not as pretty or sexy but it works. I don't know your setup, but my tiller extension isn't a problem. I haven't trimmed it to length yet.










While I'm at it, here's what I did with the bunk supports. Look at the huge lift of those springs. The new ones should be in today, then we'll see.....


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## Tigweld (Oct 26, 2017)

Why don’t you put the axle on top of the springs?


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## derf1865 (Sep 22, 2018)

Gogittum said:


> Some years ago, in Port Angeles, WA, I bought a new Honda 30hp 4 stroke for my 15 ft Gregor side console and immediately took off for an around-the-continent trip. (14,000 miles in 9 weeks in '03)
> 
> I got as far as the UP in Michigan and noticed that the motor was in down position - I trailered with it up. Checked further and the pin that locks it up had sheared right off from the bouncing - remember what I said about springs ??
> 
> ...


Let us know how they look! And yeah, I wouldn't doubt the bouncing would eventually cause the bolt to shear over a trip like that... even though it shouldn't.


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## cal1320 (Jun 6, 2007)

Tigweld said:


> Why don’t you put the axle on top of the springs?


I did mine that way. Plenty of clearance and boat sits much lower to the water with bunks flat on the frame. It's low enough I can launch and recover without dunking the hubs.


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## State fish rob (Jan 25, 2017)

Tigweld said:


> Why don’t you put the axle on top of the springs?


I did likewise , added bump stops also. Not a better way to pick up a quick 4-5” of drop . Good luck


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## derf1865 (Sep 22, 2018)

Found this today on amazon, wonder if it is any good?









Amazon.com: Ultra-Tow 2000-Lb. Capacity Complete Axle Kit - 60in. Hubface, 48in. Spring Center, 5-Stud Pattern, 4.5in. Hubs : Automotive


Buy Ultra-Tow 2000-Lb. Capacity Complete Axle Kit - 60in. Hubface, 48in. Spring Center, 5-Stud Pattern, 4.5in. Hubs: Axles - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases



www.amazon.com


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## Ron Mexico (Jul 19, 2018)

I bought a McClain trailer from Academy for my 15' RH a few years ago. Seems like it was $625? We tow to the coast a good bit and I ended up changing tires and wheels/ mainly where I could tow at interstate speed and not have to worry. I did add a few extras on it, but that was more for me and not that it needed it.


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## TX_maverick (Oct 26, 2020)

New trailer = peace of mind = priceless.

I fought the old, rusty trailer battle, and it just got to the point where I felt like buying a new trailer was worth not messing with that old junk constantly. I wasted a lot of effort keeping it in running condition. Now when I am running down the road to the ramp in the dark, I'm not worried about hubs melting down, leaf springs rusting out, or bunks breaking off.


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## Permit.Me (Feb 25, 2021)

TX_maverick said:


> New trailer = peace of mind = priceless.
> 
> I fought the old, rusty trailer battle, and it just got to the point where I felt like buying a new trailer was worth not messing with that old junk constantly. I wasted a lot of effort keeping it in running condition. Now when I am running down the road to the ramp in the dark, I'm not worried about hubs melting down, leaf springs rusting out, or bunks breaking off.


Those old trailers never breakdown in the driveway!


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