# Beryllium build



## jglidden (Feb 13, 2014)

Awesome! Can't wait to watch it take form!


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Way to help out a fellow builder @jglidden!


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## Mc_Fly (Dec 23, 2017)

Strong back is up. Now on to the stations. That’s for another night.


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## KurtActual (Sep 25, 2017)

Gonna build the whole thing in the garage? How bigga space do you have?


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## Mc_Fly (Dec 23, 2017)

That’s the plan. I’ll measure tomorrow but there is basically on stall of a two car garage. Depth is 21’ and I have 10’ width. I built it on rollers so I can move and work on one side at a time. If it gets too tight I’ll move the skiff to dry stack or a buddies garage.


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## Mc_Fly (Dec 23, 2017)

DuckNut said:


> Way to help out a fellow builder @jglidden!


well worth the $$ for CNC. He even pallet and shipped them which was not that expensive. I’m not a purist with making my own cuts etc and Knowing the skiff will start true helps with the confidence level.


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

What hull length are you building?


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

Mc_Fly said:


> well worth the $$ for CNC. He even pallet and shipped them which was not that expensive. I’m not a purist with making my own cuts etc and Knowing the skiff will start true helps with the confidence level.


You got this! Seeing you built the Jolly Roger, this will be a picnic.


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## Mc_Fly (Dec 23, 2017)

Copahee Hound said:


> What hull length are you building?


18’


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

Looking good! Saved yourself probably 25 hours by not having to loft and cut out those stations! Even more if you count all the time you'd end up spending double checking the measurements.

I'm really impressed with the Beryllium skiff -- if it was available when I started mine, I would have been extremely tempted to go that route instead.

Will you have the option to drop it off the casters? You'll probably be putting some significant force against it and it's nice to have it sturdy as possible.


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Good move on the stations. I think it is well worth the cost.

Edited to add: And it will save your back. I believe a full sheet of MDF is north of 90 pounds.


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

If your legs end up flimsy, get a piece of 1/4" plywood and span between them. It will make them crazy strong.


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## Mc_Fly (Dec 23, 2017)

@bryson I just have to remove some screws, so yes I could take the casters off. 

@Sublime good call on that and I most likely will add some.


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## Mc_Fly (Dec 23, 2017)

Ok so definitely need to tighten up the strong back. Once I put all the stations up there it needs some added strength. I’m only working an hour or two per day due to work obligations so Progress will be modest. Broke the keel today which sucked but have it back together and have the stations on the strong back. Not aligned let but moving along. Goal is the make it all plum by the weekend and hopefully get core next week. Tip of the week is don’t get the bigger hammer! But in all seriousness, cnc is awesome as the stations are a realllly tight fit making them super solid.


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

Keep the tips coming! We're all taking notes from each of you building CM designs


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## Mc_Fly (Dec 23, 2017)

Ok so I priced out the core and was quoted 1900 shipped for divinicell h80 vs carbon core around 1000. Where are you guys getting core? Any real world experience with divinicell vs carbon core?


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## Pole Position (Apr 3, 2016)

^
Chris used Carbon Core on his last build which pretty much should answer your question. To the best of my knowledge, both the PE and PVC have been used on these builds though, fwiw, their rep recommended the PVC .


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## Mc_Fly (Dec 23, 2017)

Pole Position said:


> ^
> Chris used Carbon Core on his last build which pretty much should answer your question. To the best of my knowledge, both the PE and PVC have been used on these builds though, fwiw, their rep recommended the PVC .


unfortunately, they are now out of stock, so h80 it is.


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

I used Carbon Core PVC60. It's very similar to Divinycell H60 (both are closed cell, cross-linked PVC with near identical mechanical properties). Carbon Core doesn't have an H80 "equivalent" as far as I can tell. They have the PE80 which is the same density, but is a different material with different mechanical properties. As far as I know, @JC Designs is the only one to have built a finished skiff with ithe PE80, so he might be able to chime in.

Also, I believe Chris actually used Divinycell on his Beryllium skiff, although he and I discussed Carbon Core at one point. I think he wanted to stick with what he was comfortable with, which was the H80. I'd have to double check his build thread, though.


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## Mc_Fly (Dec 23, 2017)

bryson said:


> I used Carbon Core PVC60. It's very similar to Divinycell H60 (both are closed cell, cross-linked PVC with near identical mechanical properties). Carbon Core doesn't have an H80 "equivalent" as far as I can tell. They have the PE80 which is the same density, but is a different material with different mechanical properties. As far as I know, @JC Designs is the only one to have built a finished skiff with ithe PE80, so he might be able to chime in.
> 
> Also, I believe Chris actually used Divinycell on his Beryllium skiff, although he and I discussed Carbon Core at one point. I think he wanted to stick with what he was comfortable with, which was the H80. I'd have to double check his build thread, though.


I thought he used h80 as well. Carbon core is out of pe80 for the foreseeable future and the pvc 60 for the next 3-4 weeks. I’m ok with divinicell it’s not that much more relatively speaking. 

For the record carbon core pe80 and pvc60 have near identical physical properties even though pvc 60 is 4lb. Good to note for the guys out there building once all is back in stock.


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## jglidden (Feb 13, 2014)

I used PE foam from Carbon Core on my build. From what I read on here and expeirenced myself, the PE foam wets out easier as it does not absorb as much resin as the PVC foam. I feel like it might have been @bryson who said the PVC foam was thirsty? I could also be totally wrong...


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

jglidden said:


> I used PE foam from Carbon Core on my build. From what I read on here and expeirenced myself, the PE foam wets out easier as it does not absorb as much resin as the PVC foam. I feel like it might have been @bryson who said the PVC foam was thirsty? I could also be totally wrong...


Yep that was probably me. Keep in mind though that I have no frame of reference for that. Also stands to reason that a less dense foam would soak up more, since the cut "cells" on the glassing surface are probably larger. It definitely gave me confidence in the bond to the glass though, almost like sanding with a coarser paper.

I forgot you used the PE foam too, have you noticed any differences in your skiff vs a production skiff that might have used a PVC foam like Divinycell? I noticed there is a good bit more elongation before break, although hopefully you haven't had to test that aspect


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## jglidden (Feb 13, 2014)

Fortunately I have not noticed anything in that regard. There have been a few instances of abuse like getting tossed around in a storm while on anchor but she gets babied for the most part.


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

I was very pleased with the final product using the pe80! Will be using in my next build as well provided Italy is back up and running again by then.


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

I am using Carbon Core PE 80 on my build. Their website lists both types as okay for use on hulls. I have a 4 x 12 piece glassed up that’s been run over with a compact car , a 1900 lb UTV and just now, the front tire of my Dodge Cummins. The truck _did_ compress it some, but mostly on the edges. Your results may vary.


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## Mc_Fly (Dec 23, 2017)

Strong back is now strong. Haha

also added some lag bolts to the joints. Move the casters so the load is centered and it gave room off the 2x6 to block it up when I want it firm.

For those wondering dimensions are as following. 20” tall X 48” wide X 17’4” long. If my math is right I’ll have centered the width of the sheer flange bow and stern.

There’s a before pic and the after reinforcement.

**and everything shifted 1/4” so as @Sublime said, you have to reinforce the bottom legs. I bet you may be able to use 4x4’s but this seems much better. Only took an hour or so.

*** first pic pre reinforcement


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## Mc_Fly (Dec 23, 2017)

Still not plum but it’s solid on the strong back. I feel much more confident now. No shims anywhere and see how true the keel joint looks. I like it.


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## Mc_Fly (Dec 23, 2017)

One more happy accident tonight. I was sitting staring at the spray rail trying to think of the best way to make a pattern and then looked over at the cnc sheer flange.... guess what. The sheer flange is damn near identical so that saved a bunch of time. I’ll make a patter off of it and then adjust a little as needed.


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## Mc_Fly (Dec 23, 2017)

FYI, I misunderstood stock levels and pvc60 is available. Tommy at carbon core recommended it over the pe80 for this application. Very easy online check out and should have core next week.


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## cusnooking (Jan 17, 2007)

Mc_Fly said:


> FYI, I misunderstood stock levels and pvc60 is available. Tommy at carbon core recommended it over the pe80 for this application. Very easy online check out and should have core next week.


Any up dates, really like watching these builds.


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## VANMflyfishing (Nov 11, 2019)

How many sheets are needed for the build? I am about to buy the plans and email Tommy.

Thanks!


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## Mc_Fly (Dec 23, 2017)

VANMflyfishing said:


> How many sheets are needed for the build? I am about to buy the plans and email Tommy.
> 
> Thanks!


 I bought 10 (10 is one carton). I got that number from another forum member so I hope he was right, haha!


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## Mc_Fly (Dec 23, 2017)

I injured my back and have been out of commission recently but now back at it. Today I spent some time finalizing my station placement on my strong back( and still some more to go). It is unbelievably solid. I’ll include some pics and a couple time savers I stumbled upon today. I offset my stringer line 3/8 and was able to use a straight edge to align by stations. Zero measuring of centers needed (but I already did it so it confirmed my theory was correct). Let me know if you have questions as I’m trying to include all the small details that may make someone else’s build a little easier. Check out how I placed the blocks as spacer for the sheer flange. If anyone is following my dims for the strong back, the station upright 2x4’s are 16” for the first 7 stations and 12” for the next three and I’ll update for the bow once I get there. Also just started @beryllium_skiff on IG as I’ll probably post more there. That will take me a couple days to update and get where I am on this thread. Probably will have some live stuff and story’s there as well.


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## Mc_Fly (Dec 23, 2017)

Stations done tonight and feel really good about them. Test fit the sheer and happy so we’ll see what tomorrow brings. Really enjoying this so far and highly encourage anyone on the fence to start one. I only worked an hour today but had a few beers and am in zen mode. Very rewarding.


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## Rollbar (Oct 20, 2016)

Very nice!
Where does one acquire plans?
Also where are you ordering the Carbon Core PE 80 ?
Thanks,
JB


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

Rollbar said:


> Very nice!
> Where does one acquire plans?
> Also where are you ordering the Carbon Core PE 80 ?
> Thanks,
> JB











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## Rollbar (Oct 20, 2016)

Copahee Hound said:


> Home
> 
> 
> The Blog Sailing, Art, Skiffs, Travel. Follow my next adventure. Boat PlansCheck out my latest skiff and sailboat designs. SAILING. BOATS. ART. LIFESTYLE. SAILING, BOATS, MY ARTWORK, OTHER'S ART, BAHAMAS,
> ...


Thank you!


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