# The Tunneled Texas Beryllium



## Timmayy (Apr 7, 2020)

Long time lurker few time poster. Wanted to introduce myself and start this long journey of trying to build something that will float and look pretty. My names Tim, im a 26 year old engineer working in chemical manufacturing in houston TX, transplanted from New Orleans. I’m finally marching towards closing on a house that has the 20x20 garage which I have desperately NEEDED. Houston apartment life is about to kill me. What that means is I can finally live out my dream of building boats, albeit small ones for now. I am an absolute noob in all things fiberglass although I am reading books by Chris’ suggestion on fiberglassing which have been more than helpful picking up terminology and getting the general idea of how things are done. I do consider myself very capable with woodworking and think I am patient enough to do pretty sound work.

Truthfully I am an offshore fisherman at heart way before I am an inshore fisherman but my love lies with the beauty of all boats. I am particularly attracted to Chris’s skiffs as I think they make beautiful boats and I believe it to be a great foray into the world of boat building.

I’ve settled on and purchased the beryllium plans as I know the end use of this boat might see some more open water and heavier loads than appropriate for the conchfish. 60-70 horsepower class motor if new. I have an old 1995 50hp mercury that we took off our flatboat when we bought a surface drive back in 2006. I think with a little TLC she would run just fine if I didn’t scrounge together the money for a new motor. I also am certain that I want to build in Chris’s vented tunnel because this boat will be run across the Texas flats of Port O’Connor, Corpus, and here around Galveston.

This is where my certainties end unfortunately... I don’t close on my house until 4/28 and I start a 25 day outage on nights tomorrow night  so I certainly have gobs of time to nail down more things. Like 17.5 vs 18.5; rounded vs flat transom on the 18.5 (17.5 plans don’t have rounded transom included so probably wouldn’t want to fool with trying to make on my own). Poly everything or epoxy outer hull; basalt vs Eglass. The list goes on!

Some of you may wonder why I want to build this boat if I don’t really have the inshore bug and really have no clue what I’m getting into. I can simply answer it by saying I want to build one beautiful azz boat and this is a great way to start.

I am excited as well because a very good friend has a son who lives and breathes sports and fishing. He rides his bike miles after school to different ponds around town multiple times a week inbetween baseball and football practices. This kid is as good as can be and the most respectful person I’ve ever met regardless of age. Unfortunately his hearing is getting worse and worse and his hearing aids aren’t cutting it anymore and it’s looking like he’s going to get cochlear implants. We aren’t sure yet what this means but if he has to stop playing football for fear of brain injury or implant damage I’m afraid it’s going to be a big adjustment for him. My buddy really wants to get his son a boat that he can call his and tool around when he gets his drivers license (he’s 14 now). I told him if he drops him off a few times during the summer to help sand I would give his son the boat for whatever it cost me to build (his dad and gpaw might help him out a little)

With all that said I understand updates will be few and far between for the next few months but I will be frequenting this page to bounce ideas and help me make some more of those decisions.

thanks for any help y’all can give, this place seems like a great atmosphere.


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

welcome dude, best of luck on your build I also want to one day just don’t have the garage space to do it yet. Sad story about your friends son, I’ll pray for him. Best of luck


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## jglidden (Feb 13, 2014)

Very cool stuff man. It sounds like you will really enjoy the process. It's gonna be tough letting that skiff go once she's done, even if it's for a charitable cause! 
There are a couple guys who have built 17.5 Berylliums with rounded transoms who could definitely help you along the way. I would start with @VANMflyfishing and bug him


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

Like many who have a new standard sized garage of 20x20 you will learn just because it says 20 doesn't mean it's all usable. They don't account for things like drywall thickness or garage doors and supports, so you end up with maybe 19.5 at the end. That said I just finished building a FS17, which came out to 17'2" and it was pretty tight, so I think the 17.5ft version might be as big as you can build since you will need room on all 4 sides to walk around and you can't move the jig until the glass is cured.
I'm waiting on my motor, but with a removable tongue I will be able to park it nearly straight in and have a few inches to spare. If I add a jackplate later it will need to be parked diagonally a bit. If you build the larger version and have a jackplate, and you will, you will need to park it diagonally and take up most of your garage. Just something to consider since you might want to do other projects in there later on.


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

Welcome, Following


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## Zika (Aug 6, 2015)

Welcome aboard, Tim. Will be interested to read your progress. Congrats on the new home and tip of the hat on its final intended purpose!


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## Timmayy (Apr 7, 2020)

Thanks for all the replies and support, I think y’all are going to be a huge reason as to why this build will be a success.

jglidden - thanks for that! I’ve dug around most of these builds but I haven’t seen his name come up I’ll dig further. Hmmm do I maybe sense the possibility of buying the jig and adding a tunnel!?

Firecat - 20x20 defintiely makes the 18.5 a tight squeeze, I would say it’s maybe still doable since this garage has no other intended purpose than to be my workshop so I could build it diagonal from the start. But that would take away some ability to have large layup tables next to etc.the garage also has 2 single doors for now which complicates the diagonal plan but I do eventually plan on putting in a single door. That said that is my main reason for wanting to do the 17.5 version as well as maybe being powered a little better by the lower horsepower.


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

A friend of mine is almost finished with his drop-dead-gorgeous Beryllium build and he is south of Houston. He specifically built his to fit in his garage. He is @C Brueckner here and coreybrueckner on Instagram.


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## Tim Wilson (Dec 22, 2016)

Good Luck from another Tim from Texas. Following can’t wait to see your progess


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## VANMflyfishing (Nov 11, 2019)

Happy to help. I'm no expert as I've made a lot of mistakes, but haven't we all. The 17.5' uses the same rounded transom forms at the 18.5', but you have to cut them slightly when the meet up with the transom form. My two cents...I'd have @jglidden cut the CNC for you once you find a length you want to go with. That way you can build the strongback, strip 3" pieces of foam, and get materials while he is shipping it to you. Happy to jump on a call anytime to talk shop.

That's awesome with the kid you're helping out. If he's a fly fisherman, I'm happy to donate something. Getting kids into fishing is what it's all about.


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## Wood (Mar 3, 2021)

This is awesome. Following, and looking forward to seeing the progress. Good luck!


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## C Brueckner (Mar 22, 2016)

Following along, I’ll should have my F70 mounted on a 17’ beryllium at the end of the month. I’ll let you know how much clearance I have.


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## Timmayy (Apr 7, 2020)

Are you totally against going sideways in the garage or is that not an option for you.


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

My suggestion on the build method is to keep it simple. E-glass and epoxy can be very effective and light. Epoxy is more expensive, but simpler and I feel more forgiving (better secondary/mechanical bonding, good for repairs and additions). I also feel like it's cleaner and easier to work with cloth than with mat (you will want to use some mat if you go with poly). There is a lot of good info out there to help make that decision, but I generally think epoxy is good for a home build where you will be bonding/laminating to a fully-cured previous layer, and poly is great when laying up in a mold where everything is a primary/chemical bond.

As for the size, I don't know what to tell you. Looks like you're getting some good info looking at existing skiffs. If you know what power you're using, you can see how much clearance you will need to add for the motor (since it's not boat-specific, unless you have sponsons). I think some of the swing trailers can be set up to where the trailer doesn't stick out more than the bow of the boat. I'd just draw a rough top-down view of the garage to scale, and draw in the deck and motor of your proposed design. Use graph paper and cut the boat out of a separate sheet so you can tinker with the angles and dimensions some.


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## Dobre (Nov 19, 2019)

what part of houston you moving to? if your close by me (conroe/woodlands) i may be down to help once you get started.


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

Another vote for epoxy. I have been using the US Composites 635 Thin Epoxy with the 2:1 slow hardener. It is very easy to work with, just make sure you mix it at the correct ratios and you will not have any problems. There is an acquired skill of using VE or PE and catalyzing it with MEKP. Yes, if you are good, you can adjust the MEKP to your current situation ie size of piece , temperature etc. But with the epoxy, I don't have to think about any of that, just mix it and go. Yes, the slow hardener is slow, but it really hasn't been a disadvantage. If anything it has been a good thing. For example, the other day I was glassing my floor piece. I ran out of gas around 10:30, cleaned up and went to bed. The next day the surface was still a little tacky which is perfect for picking back up where you left off. This was with daytime temps in the 70s and overnight lows in the low 60s. I have had zero issues with the slow hardener and blushing. Yes, epoxy is more expensive, but it is only going to be around 8% of the total cost of the build. Also, as mentioned, with PE you will end up using CSM which will use more resin.


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## Timmayy (Apr 7, 2020)

@bryson and @Sublime - this is the type of information that I was looking for and huge help with the decision making process. I am definitely intimidated by the fiberglass layup portion of the build and want to use the materials that will make me most successful. Hence I was already leaning eglass over basalt but I wasn’t sure the right route for epoxy. I am conscious of costs but not necessarily worried. I will use the materials that will give me the best skiff for my skills.

@Dobre I am setup to buy a house in meyerland/bellaire area so kinda far but I will always have plenty beer and I think if anyone has any glassing experience that could help me atleast in the initial layup until I get the hang that would be hugely helpful. Buttt that’s very far away I imagine.

Really thanks all, I appreciate the replies and support. It goes a long way in confidence building.


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

For me, the 300 gram basalt I used was as easy to work with as the 10oz eglass. 

The main thing when working with glass is you can avoid blisters , bubbles etc by sanding as big as a radius as possible in any sharp edge. For the chines you will come back anyway and sharpen them with thickened epoxy. So round them suckers, Also on inside corners make big fillets.

Oh and wet your foam out before ever laying the first piece of glass on it. Preferably let it start getting tacky if time allows.


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

@Timmayy I'd definitely take the time to read any build thread you can find, on this forum and on others. Even the build threads of wooden boats like the Bateau builders forum are very helpful. We've got a decent crew of people here that are more than happy to share our experiences.


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## VANMflyfishing (Nov 11, 2019)

I am using poly resin and would suggest epoxy for a few different reason. I went the poly route because I am working in a tent garage in north carolina. Temps have been in the 30's and 80's when glassing and I can manipulate the temp with a heat gun or something to get the poly to kick. Epoxy wouldn't kick as well or not at all with change in temp and humidity. For shorter glassing timeframes, poly is easier to work with...with that said, you have to move faster. One time that mat cured before I was able to glass it all the way which cause a headache. Poly is cheaper, but in TX you would have to worry about weather changes like I have, plus you have a garage. I think basalt is way way easier to work with that glass. It lays down to whatever you stick it to and you can add silica bubble for a tight radius and it stays put. Like @Sublime said, wet the foam before you do anything. I did an entire sheet recently and the foam wasn't wet enough which causes bubble and delamination areas. Not to hard to fix and would change the look, but it's more time sanding and filling.


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## Timmayy (Apr 7, 2020)

@bryson I think I’ve read a ton of builds but will say I defintiely cater to the conchfish and beryllium builds. Pretty sure I’ve read Seth’s, yours, Josh’s, Chris’ now vanmans, sublimes, Travis, and boatbrains/Jc and I’m sure there are others I’ve forgotten. I’ve read most of them over the course of about two years so I’ve defintiely forgotten some of the finer details and will have to go back and re-read.

most of my preconceived notions about the basalt I guess came from my hesitation about it maybe needing silica to help hold down and me thinking that’s just another thing to mess up but if it’s no big deal cool. Also I think there might be a basalt cloth dealer local to Houston if I understood correctly.

@VANMflyfishing y’all are defintiely doing a good job of convincing me to go epoxy since deep down I wanted it for it’s strength and secondary bonding but I didn’t have enough knowledge to know if it was worth the extra cost or if it was easier or harder to work with.

To be fair I really need to sit down and come up with a BOM but but wanted to nail down which hull and deck layout I want. I’m thinking leaning heavily to the 17.5’ with tunnel, modified transom to add a tombstone for the motor height, and rounded corners. I’ve done some prelimary asking around for builds that I know of with jigs available but still not quite enough jigs in circulation so I’m thinking I will get @jglidden to help me out there.


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

If you really wanted to go out on a limb and be the bomb diggity, then make it a key slot transom. That would take care of a lot of the issues as far as fitting it in a garage.


I _did_ use thickened epoxy on some of my edges, but I would have done that with any glass I think.


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## Timmayy (Apr 7, 2020)

i actualy talked to Chris about that a while back and he kinda talked me out of it I guess because of its poling characteristic but maybe the tunnel already takes away the poling characteristics. I’m sure I could be convinced. 

I guess for as far as the garage goes I’m not super worried about fitting it in there I’ll just turn the boat sideways as needed. I think my 17.5 preference over 18.5 is really wanting to have a boat powered well by the 60hp class and maybe that foot less of wetted surface area will give a little better top end. I also think the 17.5 will give plenty of room for what I want as I’m not looking for near as large a back deck and as much space in front of the console as what Chris built into his 18.5.


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

Timmayy said:


> i actualy talked to Chris about that a while back and he kinda talked me out of it I guess because of its poling characteristic but maybe the tunnel already takes away the poling characteristics. I’m sure I could be convinced.
> 
> I guess for as far as the garage goes I’m not super worried about fitting it in there I’ll just turn the boat sideways as needed. I think my 17.5 preference over 18.5 is really wanting to have a boat powered well by the 60hp class and maybe that foot less of wetted surface area will give a little better top end. I also think the 17.5 will give plenty of room for what I want as I’m not looking for near as large a back deck and as much space in front of the console as what Chris built into his 18.5.


On these smaller/lighter skiffs, the beam will most likely be the primary factor in how the boat runs with a given motor (within reason, obviously). My 17.8 CF was seeing speeds similar to the 16 version with the same power. I have no regrets about going longer. For how it seems like you will use the boat, my suggestion is to go as long as you can fit in the garage. It will track straighter, float shallower, and be able to carry more weight, with a minimal speed sacrifice.


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## Timmayy (Apr 7, 2020)

wait a minute. Everyone is supposed to agree on everything. Y’all aren’t allowed to fuel my indecisiveness


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## VANMflyfishing (Nov 11, 2019)

@Timmayy I used epoxy for a carbon fiber tiller extension and it took 4 days to fully cure at 50 degrees. Poly cures to in hours and to sand in about a day as long as it kicks which can be accelerated with a heat gun or space heater. Mat is a pain in the ass too. It sticks to everything, but it is helpful in certain areas and building mass. With the tunnel you could do a 60hp Tohatsu 15" similar to a Chittum or the 60R like the Floyd skiff build. Couldn't recommend @jglidden enough. He can draft up the 17.5' rounded transom with a tunnel. He can do a create a deck mold too which will help save time and effort. I didn't go that route since I'm decided to bond my deck straight to the hull.


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## C Brueckner (Mar 22, 2016)

Timmayy said:


> Are you totally against going sideways in the garage or is that not an option for you.


Mine will be straight back, I have tools, lawn mover, deep freeze Ext Ext on the other side. There’s just over 2’ behind it in that picture. It “should” fit with a few inches on each side


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## Timmayy (Apr 7, 2020)

So I heard you shortened your hull even shorter than the 17.5. Any reason you did that over just a foldaway tongue on the trailer?


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

Don’t forget to double up on gloves. When spreading your fillets, make them as clean as Chris’ and Bryson’s. It will save you more time in the long run. And something I just learned today, change your garage light bulbs to LED “natural daylight” color, you can see all of your blemishes while fairing and sanding

Edit to add: Keep your silica and glass balloons clearly labeled and separated. You really don’t want to silica, when you meant to use balloons


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## C Brueckner (Mar 22, 2016)

Timmayy said:


> So I heard you shortened your hull even shorter than the 17.5. Any reason you did that over just a foldaway tongue on the trailer?


 I have a fold away tongue that’s flush with the bow too. In a 20’ garage it’s tight. If I decide to put a jack plate on (if you have a tunnel you will for sure have a jack plate” that’s an extra 4”. So 17’6” hull + 4” jack plate + 24” of motor. That’s wayyyyy to close for me haha. Yes could put could always put it in at an angle. But I want to make sure I could put mine in straight.


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## C Brueckner (Mar 22, 2016)

Those might be a better pictures there. It’s going to be tight in my garage even with the swing tongue.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

When you do decide on which one to build bug @jglidden as he is sitting on a cnc machine and can save you days on the early work. Everyone who bought them from him say it was money well spent.


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

DuckNut said:


> When you do decide on which one to build bug @jglidden as he is sitting on a cnc machine and can save you days on the early work. Everyone who bought them from him say it was money well spent.


I think I'm in the minority here, but I really enjoyed the process of lofting the plans and cutting the stations out. It was very time consuming, but not "hard" work. If you are on a time crunch though, just get them cut or buy them from someone else. There is plenty of room for error, and I think feeling rushed would take away nearly all the enjoyment.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

bryson said:


> I think I'm in the minority here, but I really enjoyed the process of lofting the plans and cutting the stations out. It was very time consuming, but not "hard" work. If you are on a time crunch though, just get them cut or buy them from someone else. There is plenty of room for error, and I think feeling rushed would take away nearly all the enjoyment.


Spoken like a true engineer........................


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

bryson said:


> I think I'm in the minority here, but I really enjoyed the process of lofting the plans and cutting the stations out. It was very time consuming, but not "hard" work. If you are on a time crunch though, just get them cut or buy them from someone else. There is plenty of room for error, and I think feeling rushed would take away nearly all the enjoyment.


If I was going to build one I would feel and do the same. It’s satisfying knowing you did everything.


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## C Brueckner (Mar 22, 2016)

Not trying to take over your thread, but an update on length. With a Yamaha F70 turn to the side, no Jack plate, 17’ Beryllium, and Ramlin swing tongue I have about 4” of clearance in my 20’ garage. There is some trailer still sticking out in front of my hull but not to much. I think if you could get a trailer custom built where the hull was sticking out on both side you could fit a 17’6” in a 20’ garage.


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## Timmayy (Apr 7, 2020)

Sorry for the slow of this thread. On day 13 of 13 hour night shifts so doing little else than work and sleep.
I’m leaving to the 17.6 and just turning the boat sideways.


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## C Brueckner (Mar 22, 2016)

Timmayy said:


> Sorry for the slow of this thread. On day 13 of 13 hour night shifts so doing little else than work and sleep.
> I’m leaving to the 17.6 and just turning the boat sideways.


Very familiar with that schedule haha. We are finally going back to normal hours next week. If you call 5/12’s normal lol.


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## timogleason (Jul 27, 2013)

C Brueckner said:


> Very familiar with that schedule haha. We are finally going back to normal hours next week. If you call 5/12’s normal lol.


Those would be half days...


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

timogleason said:


> Those would be half days...


Try eight 16’s


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## MatthewAbbott (Feb 25, 2017)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Try eight 16’s


Done it. Don’t miss it. I now enjoy LYBs fatigue policy.


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## C Brueckner (Mar 22, 2016)

Yup, Amen! After 12 I’m ready to go lol


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## Timmayy (Apr 7, 2020)

I was starting to think about this. I don’t think anyone has done rounded corners with a tunnel and trim tabs.
Am I wrong in thinking that I wouldn’t have room with the rounded corners? Are the rounded corners worth the extra hassle and just do flat transom and tabs?


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Timmayy said:


> I was starting to think about this. I don’t think anyone has done rounded corners with a tunnel and trim tabs.
> Am I wrong in thinking that I wouldn’t have room with the rounded corners? Are the rounded corners worth the extra hassle and just do flat transom and tabs?


That depends on your dimensions and how you mount the tabs. There’s almost always a way if you try hard enough.


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## jay.bush1434 (Dec 27, 2014)

@Timmayy, there's a bunch of us plant workers on MS that live in the Houston area. I just finished a 6 week TAR, 5 of those weeks on nights, working 13 on/1 off, 12hr shifts. Anyway, when you break free, we should try to all meet up to talk skiffs. You can see a lot of different skiffs and get some good ideas of what you want to do with your skiff.


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## Timmayy (Apr 7, 2020)

Thread revival! 

It may be a year later but that only gave me time to do a little fiberglass practice and get things settled at my house. 

I have narrowed down and decided 17.5 beryllium tunnel 4" jackplate rounded transom smaller console.

I have worked with epoxy and poly now and epoxy is going to win just from the smell alone. 

Will go basalt cloth inside and out. My fishing partner recently purchased a Laguna 4x8 CNC for his marine electronics company so i will have access to that. Jigs will be 3/4" MDF and will likely be reused by my other buddy who is a naval archtiect/engineer who is helping me tweak the cad files provided by nathan to incorporate the tunnel and rounded corners. 

On that note, he has only spent a little bit with it, but does anyone know if the cad file jigs need to be adjusted for using 3/4" foamboard rather than the 1/4" glass for the chines?


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## Timmayy (Apr 7, 2020)

it’s going to be tight… the washer dryer being where they are really mess me up.

picture outline is the shear flange with the 4” suggested dimension

it’s tight but doable I’ll have it on leveling casters that I can move around a bit to give me some room. I can clear out most everything that’s in the garage now


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Timmayy said:


> it’s going to be tight… the washer dryer being where they are really mess me up.
> 
> picture outline is the shear flange with the 4” suggested dimension
> 
> ...


Hand wash clothes and hang them on the clothes line, you have a skiff to build!


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

Timmayy said:


> Thread revival!
> 
> It may be a year later but that only gave me time to do a little fiberglass practice and get things settled at my house.
> 
> ...


I haven't seen your plans, but on the Conchfish the plans say to use 1/4" material on the chine flats. So, I worked with the understanding that to get the appropriate hull dimensions, you would either need to use 1/4" thick material or modify the stations to offset that line by the difference in material thickness. I just offset mine an additional 1/2" inboard and used 3/4" foam everywhere.


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## Timmayy (Apr 7, 2020)

Ok… so it’s getting down to the wire between me being impatient and me being indecisive and just needing to pull the trigger. 

The guy I was going to use to modify the plans for the cnc isn’t getting it done as quickly as I would like 

I have a few options. 1.) Cut the jigs at 17.5’ without the tunnel and add the tunnel and rounded transom by hand. And deal with the baot hardly fitting in the garage orrr. 2.) cut the jigs at 16’ and be able to use the tunnel cutouts provided with the plans and be able to fit the boat in the garage straight on.

I really ruled out the 16 until I was down in port o Connor this weekend and put my eyes on a whipray 16 with vented tunnel and center console and honestly I really liked it more than I thought I would proportionally at 16’.

Someone with actual experience help….0


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## Sublime (Oct 9, 2015)

I know Chris says not to do it, but I spaced my stations at 20” instead of 18” to stretch my Conchfish out. You could play with spacing your stations closer together to make it shorter. To me it makes more sense to change the length a little bit here and there over the whole length of the boat than to chop it off , but that’s just me.


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## Timmayy (Apr 7, 2020)

Sublime said:


> I know Chris says not to do it, but I spaced my stations at 20” instead of 18” to stretch my Conchfish out. You could play with spacing your stations closer together to make it shorter. To me it makes more sense to change the length a little bit here and there over the whole length of the boat than to chop it off , but that’s just me.


what was his reason for notdoing that?

many advantage shortening the 17.5 over just using the 16s in his plans


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## C Brueckner (Mar 22, 2016)

I would try to keep it as long as possible. My 17’ beryllium is pretty weight sensitive. If I could have built mine an extra 6” I would have. My prop touch’s the dry all and the bow misses the garage door by an inch or so.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

If you want it to perform better with extra weight and in chop to span the waves keep it as long as possible. If you don’t care about that then make it shorter. There is a reason “the C word” skiffs are 18’...so they eat chop and easily handle three people.


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## Timmayy (Apr 7, 2020)

C Brueckner said:


> I would try to keep it as long as possible. My 17’ beryllium is pretty weight sensitive. If I could have built mine an extra 6” I would have. My prop touch’s the dry all and the bow misses the garage door by an inch or so.


How does it perform that makes it weight sensitive?


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## Timmayy (Apr 7, 2020)

Also I was hoping y’all would just say yeah do it in 16’ lol


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Timmayy said:


> Also I was hoping y’all would just say yeah do it in 16’ lol


Do you want us to lie and make you feel good or tell you the truth and let you make a decision based on what advice we give you? If you run any chop a 16’ skiff will not span the waves as well as a longer hull and that is a fact. If you do not run chop enough to really care about that capability and having more weight capacity then build it shorter. A longer skiff with a bow tank will not squat as much when you are getting on plane as well.


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## Timmayy (Apr 7, 2020)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Do you want us to lie and make you feel good or tell you the truth and let you make a decision based on what advice we give you? If you run any chop a 16’ skiff will not span the waves as well as a longer hull and that is a fact. If you do not run chop enough to really care about that capability and having more weight capacity then build it shorter. A longer skiff with a bow tank will not squat as much when you are getting on plane as well.


Oh no dont take it the wrong way, i much prefer and am looking for the honesty. I was hoping yall would just say "you are overthinking it and that they made some very popular 16' boats for years." To build a boat not able to take the bay chop of places like Lake Borgne would seem laughable.


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## C Brueckner (Mar 22, 2016)

Timmayy said:


> How does it perform that makes it weight sensitive?


It performs well, turns without sliding, poles nice, and a great dry ride.
But it’s weight sensitive. Text me and I’ll send you a video of me walking the gunnels. It’s easier to understand with the video. 5737685109


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