# Quest for perfection!



## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

I love everything about my HPX Tunnel except the area behind the rub rails from about 4’ from the bow to the stern is weak and cracks.


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## Cam (Apr 5, 2017)

I would like to see a basic Shallow Sport Sport style deck in a V bottom boat with the low gunnels and flat deck. Add on plenty of deadrise to cut through the chop while allowing for a real world 10" loaded draft. No flatback designs. Throw on an oval standing livewell in front of the motor as needed. 










This is the best "at rest" boat I have fished from in our area but it beats the snot out of a fellow running through chop. Fix the chop problem even if it is slow and I would buy one.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Cam said:


> I would like to see a basic Shallow Sport Sport style deck in a V bottom boat with the low gunnels and flat deck. Add on plenty of deadrise to cut through the chop while allowing for a real world 10" loaded draft. No flatback designs. Throw on an oval standing livewell in front of the motor as needed.
> 
> 
> 
> ...


If you have never fished off a Tran Sport Baby Cat you should check one out. They are the biggest little boat I’ve ever been on. They are relatively shallow draft, excellent in chop, drift well, great holeshot, decent speed and a 90 is perfect on them. They pole like a one legged pelican swims but only because if their width and weight.


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## wardicus (Jun 3, 2013)

I’m running a basic to the eye tiller caimen. What I like ,how it poles, the draft , the economy of light tiller boat , the ride for what that hull is . It still amazes me at times . What I don’t like . Prob lack of dry storage , no live well , would like a few more mph at times . Sponson boat does not reverse well . Now having said all that if , I change one or more of the dislikes I would have to change the whole skiff . More hp ,live well , storage , creature comforts , bigger fuel tank , the whole boat changes . Draft , economy , poling, etc .... as you said there is no perfect skiff. If fact I think most skiff can only do a couple things really well . Than the line begins blur depending on what your asking it to do . In the end no I don’t want to give up draft or poling. So I stick with what I got . but I’m one of the crazies that loves being on the platform .


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## commtrd (Aug 1, 2015)

*That shallowsport does not belong on the microskiff website.* ECC does make a scooter style deck on a skiff. Example the Lostmen. I have a HB Professional. The only thing I would change I already did. Mounted the motor up 3" on the JP. Far and away the best built, most functional boat I have ever owned. Never again another shallowsport. Other good boats to get would be a Spear Glades X or a Sabine aluminum skiff. If looking at a scooter style hull then a New Water Ibis or Curlew.


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## Guest (May 16, 2018)

commtrd said:


> *That shallowsport does not belong on the microskiff website.* ECC does make a scooter style deck on a skiff. Example the Lostmen. I have a HB Professional. The only thing I would change I already did. Mounted the motor up 3" on the JP. Far and away the best built, most functional boat I have ever owned. Never again another shallowsport. Other good boats to get would be a Spear Glades X or a Sabine aluminum skiff. If looking at a scooter style hull then a New Water Ibis or Curlew.


The boat might not qualify for microskiff, but he was answering the question about what he likes and dislikes about a skiff. But if there is something you didn’t like about a shallow sport and you have owned or fished from one let us hear it, just don’t bash please.


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## FlyBy (Jul 12, 2013)

I have a Bossman Karma with a 30 Tohatsu tiller. 29 MPH with two people, drafts 5", poles great and no problems reversing even with the sponsons. It reminds me of the SR-71 Blackbird in that it's a POS but it gets the job done. I'm considering a BT Mosquito for rougher water capability but afraid I'll gain an inch or so in draft and I don't know if I can live with that. Draft REALLY matters where I fish, which is flooded grass flats.


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## No Bait / Lures Only (Apr 10, 2011)

Spear Glades X, Very nice boat but early model needs spray rails. Light, Fast, Poles nice, shallow draft. A small bottom pad/pocket would make it a rocket ship. Almost no storage under rear casting deck, no splash well cover, needs a hatch cover. Boat is low enough to make a scooter deck with.


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## zthomas (Jan 14, 2014)

I'm a big fan of the side console layout. Didn't think I would be, but now that I have one, I'd be hesitant to go back to center.

With both batteries and my troller on the port side, listing at sub-planing speeds is barely noticeable, even with just me in the boat. On plane, my weight to starboard just helps offset prop torque, especially trimmed down. I guess maybe I get wetter in certain situations than I would with a center console, but I stay dryer in others. Besides, it's a 17T — no driving arrangement short of a pilothouse is going to keep you dry all the time.

And the big open cockpit is great — especially for me, since I fish a lot with kids, wife, dad, and others who often need a hand with knots, baiting, releasing, etc. Being able to move freely from bow to stern more or less on the centerline is a big deal. It's also nice for boat camping and all-day beach/sandbar trips with kids and the heaps of not-very-well-organized gear that my wife insists on bringing.


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## zthomas (Jan 14, 2014)

Also, coming from an offshore background, I'm still not down with cockpits that drain to the bilge. I understand that's just the nature of the poling skiff beast, but it still seems dangerous. I really don't like the idea of being entirely reliant on my electrical system and bilge pumps to keep me floating.

My son and I took a big, curling barge wake over the bow last year and instantly had 6" of water in the cockpit. Took us a very long 5 minutes or so to bucket and pump it out while also keeping the boat moving to keep the bow up, and it scared me pretty good. If that had happened with a natural wave, rather than an isolated wake, and there had been more waves of the same size behind it, we could very easily have been swimming.


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## Steve_Mevers (Feb 8, 2013)

Shallow draft with little deadrise = miserable ride in a chop. I just couldn't stand the ride of my 17T anymore, running a Action Craft now.


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## FlyBy (Jul 12, 2013)

zthomas said:


> Also, coming from an offshore background, I'm still not down with cockpits that drain to the bilge. I understand that's just the nature of the poling skiff beast, but it still seems dangerous. I really don't like the idea of being entirely reliant on my electrical system and bilge pumps to keep me floating.


Amen, brother. I like a self-bailing cockpit but I don't know of any poling skiffs that have one. And I know there are a lot of reasons they don't.


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## zthomas (Jan 14, 2014)

Steve_Mevers said:


> Shallow draft with little deadrise = miserable ride in a chop.


True story. But it's a tradeoff you have to make to fish effectively in some areas. My last boat (in the picture) was an Action Craft/Hewes Redfisher style flats boat with 12 or 14 degrees of deadrise. Rode great in chop, but I sold it and bought a 17T because it wouldn't go where I needed it to in the lagoon.

More deadrise and softer ride in chop = deeper draft.


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## Guest (May 16, 2018)

Mostly all good stuff guys. I’m looking for your thoughts on the different features you like/ dislike more than what makes a boat draft more or less and not too concerned with what manufacturer you prefer over another. Things like removable hatch liners, tilt wheel, side vs center console vs tiller, maybe sliding battery trays, non skid preference??? I already know HB, Action Craft, Harry Spear, Ancona, ect... make/made great boats. Just toying around with the Idea of making a near perfect skiff and what features it should have.


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## commtrd (Aug 1, 2015)

Boatbrains said:


> The boat might not qualify for microskiff, but he was answering the question about what he likes and dislikes about a skiff. But if there is something you didn’t like about a shallow sport and you have owned or fished from one let us hear it, just don’t bash please.


My last shallowsport purchased brand new the deck would very audibly crunch under foot walking on it. Even felt slightly squishy. I should have refused to take delivery on it. Sold it 3 months later since Wes (the owner of SS) told me it was OK and they did not intend to resolve it. I just didn't want the hassle of trying to get a cratered deck fixed on a new boat if it came to that. I often wonder what became of that boat if the deck failed or not. Took a beating on selling it but goodbye and good riddance. 

Buy a skiff from a reputable Florida builder and dont have to be concerned with nonsense like that.


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## Guest (May 16, 2018)

commtrd said:


> My last shallowsport purchased brand new the deck would very audibly crunch under foot walking on it. Even felt slightly squishy. I should have refused to take delivery on it. Sold it 3 months later since Wes (the owner of SS) told me it was OK and they did not intend to resolve it. I just didn't want the hassle of trying to get a cratered deck fixed on a new boat if it came to that. I often wonder what became of that boat if the deck failed or not. Took a beating on selling it but goodbye and good riddance.
> 
> Buy a skiff from a reputable Florida builder and dont have to be concerned with nonsense like that.


Being a 7th generation Florida boy I like that! But good boats are built in other states and some bad boats built here in Florida. I am sorry to hear of your bad experience though and wish all builders understood the value of customer/product support as much as some do. I know many people feel that way too. All that said, obviously the SS had some features that you liked or you wouldn’t have bought it. Let’s hear those as well please?


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## ifsteve (Jul 1, 2010)

Three generic comments:
1. Perfection is a great thing to strive for. But you won't get it. No such thing as a perfect boat.
2. Boats are smaller on the water when you load them up and get on board than you think in looking at them on land.
3. I have never heard anybody say I wish I had gone with a smaller engine.


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## Guest (May 16, 2018)

ifsteve said:


> Three generic comments:
> 1. Perfection is a great thing to strive for. But you won't get it. No such thing as a perfect boat.
> 2. Boats are smaller on the water when you load them up and get on board than you think in looking at them on land.
> 3. I have never heard anybody say I wish I had gone with a smaller engine.


I know that one boat will never be perfect in every situation. Really looking for your likes/dislikes of features on a boat you own or owned. I am not in the market for a boat either. There is a reason for my madness here, to be revealed in the future!


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## MariettaMike (Jun 14, 2012)

Perfection has horsepower requirements with weight limitations.

Mine used to be 90; tried 70; now its 115.


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## Dallas Furman (May 13, 2018)

Although I to this point have not owned a true skiff, as wide as the gunwales are on the skiffs that I have an eye on, I would think that you would see lockable rod storage at least on one side. My last boat had it and it is surely a sense of security when your waiting out a thunder storm or the fog to lift in a restaurant and not having to transfer your rods to the cab of your truck. I know people that have had their rods stolen in just that situation.


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## Str8-Six (Jul 6, 2015)

^this^
and I wish I would have done a side console, no liner and portable tank save weight and open up the cockpit. I also wish I had a anchor locker up front. Anchor in the front compartment in heavy seas is not gelcoat friendly. I wish I would have got NMEA compatable gps. I wish it had spray rails and dry launch trailer. I wish I had flush mount cup holders. I wish I had better rod holders. I wish I did offset trolling motor with plug in anchor well. I wish I had gas shocks for hatches and cushions that don’t cover hatch lock. The only thing I probably wouldn’t change is the engine. Half of these things I could probably do myself but I’d rather go fishing with the little bit of time off I have instead. You learn a lot of what you need and what you don’t need in your first boat.


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## Guest (May 16, 2018)

Now we’re talkin what I want to hear! Keep it comin please.


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## Guest (May 16, 2018)

Now, how many of you have to have a boat/ trailer that fits in a standard garage? What is your maximum combo length? Thanks


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## SomaliPirate (Feb 5, 2016)

I wish I had an intact and structurally sound transom.


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## Seymour fish (May 13, 2018)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> If you have never fished off a Tran Sport Baby Cat you should check one out. They are the biggest little boat I’ve ever been on. They are relatively shallow draft, excellent in chop, drift well, great holeshot, decent speed and a 90 is perfect on them. They pole like a one legged pelican swims but only because if their width and weight.


Friend B. W. Literally designed that hull on a napkin. Great ride


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## Guest (May 16, 2018)

Somali, any word from insurance?


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## Cam (Apr 5, 2017)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> If you have never fished off a Tran Sport Baby Cat you should check one out. They are the biggest little boat I’ve ever been on. They are relatively shallow draft, excellent in chop, drift well, great holeshot, decent speed and a 90 is perfect on them. They pole like a one legged pelican swims but only because if their width and weight.


I have been on its bigger brother and in our waters it rides poorly. The "chop" in our sound is nasty. It is sharp, often 1' to 2' with frequent intervals and wave action sometimes running two directions.



commtrd said:


> *That shallowsport does not belong on the microskiff website.*


The 18' Shallowsport isn't a micro skiff but it is a skiff. If it doesn't qualify neither does a myriad of other 18' plus boats consistently mentioned here. My point though is that I love the simplified layout. Not a lot of hatches, no high gunnels and is a nice wide easy to walk around skiff. Tavernier has a nice boat in a similar fashion but too narrow for my liking and I prefer a flat deck. There just aren't many (any?) leaning post, shallow draft open layout skiffs around.


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## commtrd (Aug 1, 2015)

The shallowsport IS NOT A SKIFF. It is a scooter hull. Totally different hull design. The design came about from Wes Hudson's dad taking the homegrown Texas scooter hulls made from plywood and adapting the early tri-hull boats of the era and ended up with the trademark "quadrahedral" bottom design with what was originally a wide, deep, round tunnel. Of course the boats would run in almost no water. They were designed extremely wide to provide much lift in extreme shallows. And they do that extremely well. BUT a skiff they are DEFINITELY NOT. Same as a Majek or a Haynie or a Dargel or any of the other boat hulls built in Texas are not skiffs. 

One try poling a shallowsport should cure that urge from then on. New Water Boatworks does make two skiff models, a Stilt and a new one, the Willet IIRC. Their Curlew and Ibis are both scooter style hulls, not skiffs. Skiffs are typically somewhat narrower, smaller boats made more for stealth and great poling efficiency. Typically will be found with 70 hp outboards or much less for power. A skiff will usually be almost dead silent with little to no wave slap evident while poling for stealth. 

Obviously a shallowsport meets none of those design constraints at all. BUT for really extreme shallow water running they are among the best at that. Because they ARE NOT A SKIFF.


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## commtrd (Aug 1, 2015)

Boatbrains said:


> Being a 7th generation Florida boy I like that! But good boats are built in other states and some bad boats built here in Florida. I am sorry to hear of your bad experience though and wish all builders understood the value of customer/product support as much as some do. I know many people feel that way too. All that said, obviously the SS had some features that you liked or you wouldn’t have bought it. Let’s hear those as well please?


All of my previous boats until the Hells Bay have been TX scooters. And I still love that design for what it was designed to do: run where mostly only air boats can go. Plus they are like barges, so stable due to the width. Super fishable with spinning gear or baitcast. But most use them for water taxi to get out and wade more than fish on them. 

Someday I might buy another scooter hull, but the attributes of the skiff I now have just make it so I really prefer a skiff. No sliding in turns, doesn't destroy my knees with the scooter hull beatdown, don't have to run a huge outboard. What it boils down to is what a fisherman wants out of a boat. And a scooter is just as much a specialty type hull as a skiff is. Personally if I was going to get another scooter it would be a Curlew. Those are just beautiful boats with quality construction. Horses for courses and all that...


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## crboggs (Mar 30, 2015)

FlyBy said:


> Amen, brother. I like a self-bailing cockpit but I don't know of any poling skiffs that have one. And I know there are a lot of reasons they don't.


Love the Spear Glades X (tiller / tunnel) I recently picked up. Its the perfect micro skiff IMHO.

BUT...I now realize how spoiled I was with my Mako 181 Flats and the self bailing hull backed up by the bilge pump. 

I'll be MUCH more selective of the weather and conditions I run the Spear in.


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## AgAngler2370 (May 5, 2017)

Personally I like lots of storage and could do with less cockpit space. Also welded rod holders on the poling platform is great when fishing solo. In terms of rigging, I think it makes most sense for weight distribution to have battery under either center console or coffin box. Never understood why put a heavy battery in back hatch offset from the centerline. Trim tabs should always be a standard equipment option as well as a jackplate, just makes the skiff run so much more efficiently.


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## Guest (May 16, 2018)

Keep’em comin folks! You guys got my gears a turnin’ now!


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

If you decide on a tunnel do it right and build the transom correctly so the jackplate will bolt up high enough to squeeze 100% efficiency out of the tunnel. I see a lot of “tunnel hulls” now that need extra crap added to them to function at all or are just totally useless. There’s no sense in adding a tunnel to a hull then leaving the motor hanging 6” below the hull fully jacked up and trimmed out. When done correctly a tunnel is a great addition to any poling skiff where most of us fish. Adding to that is the correct motor, jackplate, compression plate, water pickups and prop to really allow it do what it was meant to do and not kill performance.


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## Guest (May 16, 2018)

I have a tunnel design that a friend of mine designed and tested on 3 different hulls and with only slight modifications to length worked beautifully. I will be trying it out on my hull too. He was an old Keys builder and really knew his stuff, he has passed now and missed dearly.


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

He said YOUR boat
So here goes
My boat is a splashed Master Angler. Plenty of dead rise for chop but drafts 8-9". That has not been a problem. I have plenty of storage and it's What I need to take my grandsons.
What I would want is better access to the wiring, maybe a door on the front of the console. I have to stand on my head to get to the fuse panel or the TM batteries


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

Second question storage
Mine would fit in my upstairs garage, but my cars are there
It would fit in my downstairs garage but my bird dog lives there. So its under a cover


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## jay.bush1434 (Dec 27, 2014)

2014 East Cape Vantage VHP here. I like the simplicity of the spring hatch supports but would prefer gas struts all the way around. I've knocked myself in the head a couple times. All of my rear hatch compartments are insulated including the livewell/release well. Built in drink cooler under my raised console has 2" of insulation. Keeps ice all day so no need for additional cooler. Livewell pickup can be valved off, but not the drain. Wish there was an inline valve I could close the drain to keep the livewell totally dry to use it as extra dry storage if needed. I would like a little shallower draft but I'm coming out of a Texas style tunnel boat that was stupid skinny. I would like to drive a tunnel Vantage to see if the shallow water running gains are worth the loss in tracking while poling. This could just be me learning a new style boat. Bilge is sprayed with white Awlgrip so makes keeping it clean easy. Hatch lock on console not lockable while all the other hatches are. 

East Cape being a custom builder can easily do all those that listed up top. When I get around to ordering a new East Cape, I'll have the things I really like and the few things I'd like improved added. For now, this boat is near perfect for me, where and how I like to fish. I'd have to say that I am nitpicking to find negatives. That however is what having a custom boat is all about.


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## jboriol (Jan 2, 2010)

Don’t forget good trailer. Nothing sucks more than crap breaking on the way because you skimped on cheap trailer. 

My first couple sucked and I finally got an all welded trailer with oversized wheels for long distance and its been from Mississippi to Louisiana to Florida Keys and everywhere in between. 8 years old and I just now need to rewrire.


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## Cam (Apr 5, 2017)

If a boat has any space below deck for a small pump box, that is by far the best design for livewell pumps.










2nd gen friction hinges are my favorite on smaller hatches with shocks on large ones. Spring supports are easily bent out of shape when someone forces it which often happens with new people on a boat. We also sometimes popped the spring when trying to drop bait into the livewell.






As for rod locker, good insurance is the way to go. The "locks" on rod lockers won't even slow down a person with a screwdriver. Any of those locks can be forced open in about a second without making a commotion. Ours constantly broke just from running. If a person wants to lock up rods for an hour or so, a cable lock around the reel seat and rod holder works well. I have a $50 deductible on my fishing gear that is replaced with new gear rather than value. If someone walks off with one of my big reels, I would probably come out ahead on the deal.


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## Capnredfish (Feb 1, 2012)

2006 B2. Prefer a deck hatch vs bulkhead hatch. Wish it reversed better. At least with my prop. I don’t feel too bad since I had a guide with a HB say the same thing about his directly to me.


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## commtrd (Aug 1, 2015)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> If you decide on a tunnel do it right and build the transom correctly so the jackplate will bolt up high enough to squeeze 100% efficiency out of the tunnel. I see a lot of “tunnel hulls” now that need extra crap added to them to function at all or are just totally useless. There’s no sense in adding a tunnel to a hull then leaving the motor hanging 6” below the hull fully jacked up and trimmed out. When done correctly a tunnel is a great addition to any poling skiff where most of us fish. Adding to that is the correct motor, jackplate, compression plate, water pickups and prop to really allow it do what it was meant to do and not kill performance.


Words of wisdom there. Much dinero paid for my HB Professional and had to go to that trouble (Mac really did it for me) to get the motor sitting right on the JP. But it's done and works sweet.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

commtrd said:


> Words of wisdom there. Much dinero paid for my HB Professional and had to go to that trouble (Mac really did it for me) to get the motor sitting right on the JP. But it's done and works sweet.


Yours was not bad, it’s the ones with a tunnel and no raised transom at all or the transom is lower in the middle where the jackplate bolts up so it’s useless. If a builder just adds a tunnel to a non tunnel hull and does not raise the transom proportionally it’s not worth buying because it will never run right. The OP may not even want a tunnel hull but I think lots of builders are missing out on sales by not offering a tunnel hull model to suit some people’s needs.


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## Guest (May 17, 2018)

Folks, I’m not in the market to “buy” a boat. Not in the market to build “a” boat either. I am simply getting your thoughts for a personal project I am in the very young stages of working on. Please keep your thoughts coming though.


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## Seymour fish (May 13, 2018)

commtrd said:


> The shallowsport IS NOT A SKIFF. It is a scooter hull. Totally different hull design. The design came about from Wes Hudson's dad taking the homegrown Texas scooter hulls made from plywood and adapting the early tri-hull boats of the era and ended up with the trademark "quadrahedral" bottom design with what was originally a wide, deep, round tunnel. Of course the boats would run in almost no water. They were designed extremely wide to provide much lift in extreme shallows. And they do that extremely well. BUT a skiff they are DEFINITELY NOT. Same as a Majek or a Haynie or a Dargel or any of the other boat hulls built in Texas are not skiffs.
> 
> One try poling a shallowsport should cure that urge from then on. New Water Boatworks does make two skiff models, a Stilt and a new one, the Willet IIRC. Their Curlew and Ibis are both scooter style hulls, not skiffs. Skiffs are typically somewhat narrower, smaller boats made more for stealth and great poling efficiency. Typically will be found with 70 hp outboards or much less for power. A skiff will usually be almost dead silent with little to no wave slap evident while poling for stealth.
> 
> Obviously a shallowsport meets none of those design constraints at all. BUT for really extreme shallow water running they are among the best at that. Because they ARE NOT A SKIFF.


Stick one on hard sand and call it a skiff. Lmao


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## Capnredfish (Feb 1, 2012)

I will add my likes. Everything except my two dislikes. Side console is a must. Ton of space for when you do other things like camping, castAnet shrimping or a little behind an island loving with your lady. And comfort, no awkward shoulder rubbing your fishing buddy while underway. He has his seat and you have yours. Like a car. And no half an ass in your face while operator stands.
Also like sponson design. It just looks way cooler than a flat transom. Saves space too so that should put that aurgument to bed.


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## commtrd (Aug 1, 2015)

Man I really struggled over deciding between a side console or a center console. I still suspect I should have ordered a side console but the boat has a center console so a little late now. If I just really have to have a side console I would just sell it and order a boat set up with the side console. Nice having that room down the middle of the boat.


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## FlyBy (Jul 12, 2013)

Now I see where you're going. My preferences: 

Sponsons, which move the weight a little forward and allow the poling platform to be farther back. And, yes, I know the second reason somewhat negates the benefit of the first.

Draft 5" if possible. This is the sweet spot for the way I fish.

Speed 28-30 is acceptable. Would like more but not at the expense of shallow draft. 

Ability to cross open areas to get to 5" of water. Maybe a bit of Carolina flare. I had to run some rough stuff in ML in Feb. and came close to being arrested for waterboarding my fishing buddy.

Ample dry storage.

Battery storage mid-ship or forward to get some weight out of the back. Not shared with fuel tank.

Large casting deck at bow.

Side console.

Undecided about a tunnel, I don't usually have to run shallow, just pole shallow. My 22' bay boat is a tunnel, which allows a 20" shaft instead of 25". The tunnel isn't large enough to lose much displacement and I can't see any difference in performance in other areas over a non-tunnel. And I do pole the boat sometimes, just not far. I don't know how a tunnel would affect a light skiff as far as poling and displacement.

I would really like the boat well-sealed between hull and cap.

How long before you can start my boat?


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## Guest (May 17, 2018)

FlyBy said:


> Now I see where you're going. My preferences:
> 
> Sponsons, which move the weight a little forward and allow the poling platform to be farther back. And, yes, I know the second reason somewhat negates the benefit of the first.
> 
> ...


Wish I could answer that last question now, but I can’t. You are correct though, that is where this thread is heading. I’ve got to do the whole process the right way though and it takes time and a lot of it. Still very early but have some pretty crazy innovative ideas that I think the floks here and anyone that fishes/uses a small craft will love. More to come on that though, for now keep your thought comin folks!


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## zthomas (Jan 14, 2014)

Awlgrip nonskid kicks ass. Always had gelcoat until a few month ago. The difference in ease of cleanup is huge. Mud, blood, slime, scales, coffee, red wine, Tabasco, nacho cheese dorito goo — it all comes right off with hose water and a quick brushing. Plus it's grippier and looks better.


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## zthomas (Jan 14, 2014)

Capnredfish said:


> And comfort, no awkward shoulder rubbing your fishing buddy while underway. He has his seat and you have yours. Like a car. And no half an ass in your face while operator stands.


Hear hear!


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## ifsteve (Jul 1, 2010)

Boatbrains said:


> Folks, I’m not in the market to “buy” a boat. Not in the market to build “a” boat either. I am simply getting your thoughts for a personal project I am in the very young stages of working on. Please keep your thoughts coming though.


So you are really doing market research.....


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## SomaliPirate (Feb 5, 2016)

Biggest single pet peeve about my 17T (aside from broken transom): The "self draining" cockpit. More like a self flooding cockpit. I wish the cockpit drained to the bilge. I'd rather have a pair of bilge pumps wired separately for peace of mind. The current design makes it a pain in the ass to wash the boat, since the water never drains out fully. Add to that the fact that my wife cannot go fishing without a 44oz Big Gulp fountain Coke which she invariably spills in the cockpit. This results in me having to rest my feet in 1/8" of sloshing Coke in the floor while I pilot the skiff.


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## Guest (May 17, 2018)

ifsteve said:


> So you are really doing market research.....


Yes and no, just curious what ya’ll are looking for. I have been in the industry since I could legally work so have an idea anyway. Really just excited about a concept that I have envisioned and starting to draft! I almost can’t wait to bring it to ya’ll for the thimbs up/down but I have to at this point. Keep’em comin though!


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## commtrd (Aug 1, 2015)

SomaliPirate said:


> Biggest single pet peeve about my 17T (aside from broken transom): The "self draining" cockpit. More like a self flooding cockpit. I wish the cockpit drained to the bilge. I'd rather have a pair of bilge pumps wired separately for peace of mind. The current design makes it a pain in the ass to wash the boat, since the water never drains out fully. Add to that the fact that my wife cannot go fishing without a 44oz Big Gulp fountain Coke which she invariably spills in the cockpit. This results in me having to rest my feet in 1/8" of sloshing Coke in the floor while I pilot the skiff.


Ouch! Grounds to start looking for a different boat. 

On another item: What do yall think about the poling platform moved a little more forward and lower? For better stability and ease of access. Also debatable is necessity of a live well. Especially since it seems they are always located right near the stern, right where the added weight of all that water does the most harm to clean fast hole shot. I had them do the plumbing and all for the livewell but obviously it's never gonna get used for that long as I own the boat. Could have saved a few sheckels by not ordering with the livewell plumbing. Just a few thoughts from using the boat and thinking about what I would have done different etc.


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## SomaliPirate (Feb 5, 2016)

I wouldn't bother with a livewell if I were doing a new build. I don't fish live bait very often and I only do photo tournaments so I just end up using mine to store wet gear. For the few times I use live bait, I use the Engel live bait cooler with the bubbler. Keeps stuff alive and frisky all day and I can take it out when I'm not using it.


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## FlyBy (Jul 12, 2013)

I won't have a live well on a new build. I try to keep the weight down at the back of the boat since that's where all the heavy stuff is, which is why I went to Li-Ion batteries, but I like the poling platform farther back so it's easier to clear the motor with the push pole.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

FlyBy said:


> I won't have a live well on a new build. I try to keep the weight down at the back of the boat since that's where all the heavy stuff is, which is why I went to Li-Ion batteries, but I like the poling platform farther back so it's easier to clear the motor with the push pole.


There’s nothing worse than a poling skiff that has the platform so low and far forward that your push pole smacks it every stroke or two. A tall platform helps sight fish further away and you can spot fish better for the person on the casting platform (or pick off fish when they fluff a cast). 
A livewell should be dual purpose so it can also be used as wet storage, dry storage or a cooler for fish, drinks and food. Insulated lids and liner are a must.


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## Plantation (Nov 24, 2015)

I have a center console and prefer it over crouching for most side consoles I've driven. I know that can be fixed but it is usually an awkward look to make a side console taller or a longer steering wheel shaft. I have a jump seat on my center console and prefer to be without and use a cooler. Maybe not as clean of a look but I feel it opens up more room for options of going with or without a cooler. This would allow you to use the cooler as a seat and casting platform. I do have a casting platform though. I like how some Mavericks have a removable jumpseat/cooler.
Last thing is the non self draining cockpit. It has scuppers so I can drain it under way when i pull the plugs but the scuppers sit roughly an inch under water when at rest with no one in boat. I could go for an inch or so higher cockpit to have it self drain all the time like while at the dock when raining. I own a Dolphin Skiff btw. Other than that I love it.


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## SomaliPirate (Feb 5, 2016)

I've always been a center console guy, but on a new skiff I think I'd go side console since it allows for more room to set up a playpen in the cockpit.


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## Zika (Aug 6, 2015)

Love my side console. Really opens up the cockpit for my 110-pound four-legged fishing partner. Don't use live bait either, but opted to have the port compartment plumbed per Will's recommendation. Use it as a fish box now, but it could conceivably see duty as a release well and won't hurt re-sale value if and when I ever sell the skiff.

If I were building again, I'd look long and hard at the rub rail options with stainless steel insert. Much more durable than the standard vinyl.


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## FlyBy (Jul 12, 2013)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> A livewell should be dual purpose so it can also be used as wet storage, dry storage or a cooler for fish, drinks and food. Insulated lids and liner are a must.


I don't want the risk of a leak from a plumbing failure. Two more holes in the hull.


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

I love my boat's simplicity. I have no hinges or latches anywhere in the boat, so they never break. It is almost perfect for the purposes I designed it for. However, my next boat will absolutely have to have a bow anchor locker. Currently, I have no place to put an anchor in my skiff where it is both convenient and out of the way and I have a significant amount of wasted space in front of my fuel tank that I can't access easily through the bulkhead.

If I had a bigger boat with more gizmos, a over-spec'd, neatly laid out marine electrical system would be none negotiable. I've have no tolerance for sloppy wiring with lightweight components anymore.

Nate


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## MariettaMike (Jun 14, 2012)

I think I already have the perfect boat for me.

Its an 18' boat for an all around smoother ride, and it has a 12 degree vee bottom to soften the ride across chop without sacrificing speed.

It has enough freeboard to anchor ocean side on rougher days and not take water over the bow every 7th wave.

It also has a center console with an over the top grab bar that makes driving while standing and running in sporty conditions safer and more comfortable.

The "Park Bench" seat in front the center console lets two guests set and talk directly instead of around me.

It has a 115 engine that allows running around thunderstorms instead of staying home. (and beating others to a spot.)

It has a flat transom that's easy to spin on the pole, and quiet when anchored or staked from the stern.

It has a wide beam that makes walking the gunnels much easier, and even an old man can jet over the side without getting pee on the boat.

And it has Kevlar construction to save weight for poling.

All the hatches have piano hinges that will last a lifetime without rattling or rusting, and the latches are over the oversized gutters so any water that runs through them doesn't get into the compartment. And the gas shocks make sure nobody gets surprised by the hatch accidently closing.

It doesn't have any bow lights, cleats, or other hardware on the bow to step or stub a toe on.

It doesn't have $1200+ of functionally worthless two color paint, nor $$$ wasted on powder coating, wheel wraps, colored LED cockpit and locker lighting, F'N speakers, etc

The wiring harness is neat and smartly routed on the bottom side of the cap out of harms way. Yet easy to access, add, or alter over time.

The live well is plumbed for bait and/or redfish tourneys, and insulated for occasionally taking some fresh fish home.

It has two bilge pumps, and a Power Pole. Plus 36V iPilot with Lithium batteries.

The poling platform has a folding backrest that also serves as step up/down from the poling platform.

The trim tabs are mounted off the back of the transom so they can optimally serve their purpose.

There is no pocket on the transom to add drag when poling, but the hull does have lifting strakes and reverse chines to make it run shallower and more efficiently.

There is no carpet under the gunnels to get wet, mildew, and rot over time.

It has rear facing rod holders so anglers can retrieve and stow their rods themselves.

There's a hook pull on the console for setting knots, and a cup holder for your morning coffee.

And then there's the right gunnel width for taking a dump over the side. Jus Say'n.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

MariettaMike said:


> I think I already have the perfect boat for me.
> 
> Its an 18' boat for an all around smoother ride, and it has a 12 degree vee bottom to soften the ride across chop without sacrificing speed.
> 
> ...


Well what is it?


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## Guest (May 17, 2018)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Well what is it?


I believe he has a very nice Hells Bay.
Correct me if I’m wrong MariettaMike.


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## not2shabby (Sep 14, 2016)

Sounds like a Marquesa if it's a HB.


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## not2shabby (Sep 14, 2016)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> Yours was not bad, it’s the ones with a tunnel and no raised transom at all or the transom is lower in the middle where the jackplate bolts up so it’s useless. If a builder just adds a tunnel to a non tunnel hull and does not raise the transom proportionally it’s not worth buying because it will never run right. The OP may not even want a tunnel hull but I think lots of builders are missing out on sales by not offering a tunnel hull model to suit some people’s needs.


OK Mac. Now you've got my wheels turning...

I've always thought an older HB Guide or Pro tunnel would be fun & better suited to the laguna madre. You've seen me drooling over that '02 pro tunnel near Miami, but now I'm wondering if the transoms were offset with the tunnel in mind on those early HB tunnel skiffs. If not, then they don't really have better shallow water capabilities than mine...just get more water to the prop at the top of the JP.

I was actually at the NewWater shop today. Tim knows how to build a tunnel hull. Some seriously impressive stuff, IMHO.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

not2shabby said:


> OK Mac. Now you've got my wheels turning...
> 
> I've always thought an older HB Guide or Pro tunnel would be fun & better suited to the laguna madre. You've seen me drooling over that '02 pro tunnel near Miami, but now I'm wondering if the transoms were offset with the tunnel in mind on those early HB tunnel skiffs. If not, then they don't really have better shallow water capabilities than mine...just get more water to the prop at the top of the JP.
> 
> I was actually at the NewWater shop today. Tim knows how to build a tunnel hull. Some seriously impressive stuff, IMHO.


Chris Morejohn drew up custom plans for me for a Flat/built up transom Guide tunnel and I never followed through because I figured I’d be way too busy with my little boy to build it.


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## Cam (Apr 5, 2017)

I loved the center console on my bay boat but the side console on a skiff makes a lot of sense. My current skiff is center console with a huge cockpit but it would be more comfortable with a side console. As it is now the driver has to shift over a bit to make room for anyone wanting to sit next to him. It isn't horrible but a side console allows for a roomier bench. 

I still prefer a stand up console with a leaning post but those are very rare on skiffs.


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## Steve_Mevers (Feb 8, 2013)

zthomas said:


> True story. But it's a tradeoff you have to make to fish effectively in some areas. My last boat (in the picture) was an Action Craft/Hewes Redfisher style flats boat with 12 or 14 degrees of deadrise. Rode great in chop, but I sold it and bought a 17T because it wouldn't go where I needed it to in the lagoon.
> 
> More deadrise and softer ride in chop = deeper draft.
> 
> View attachment 28830


Agree 100%, had a 17t, sold it and bought an Action Craft! lol My back and my wife are much happier now.


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## Gatorgrizz27 (Apr 4, 2015)

I think the ability to rig it several different ways easily is the key as a builder.

An insulated coffin box with a plug that drains onto the deck to be used as dry storage or a cooler. It could also be divided in half to allow a small baitwell, or plumbed as a full release well for tournament guys.

A self bailing-ish cockpit that drains to the bilge, as well as having scuppers out the sides in front of the rear bulkhead. Use a tethered plug on either side. In normal conditions, the plugs are in the side scuppers, giving you a dry cockpit that drains to the bilge. When it’s snotty out or you’re anchored up tarpon fishing, pull the plugs out and put them in the bilge drain tubes. A small amount of water will come into the cockpit, waves taken over the bow will drain out. When you get on plane to your next spot, the plugs can be swapped back to the side scuppers and you’ll have a dry cockpit again.

I’d like locking rod holders, but it is difficult to come up with something that works with a variety of rods. I don’t want an enclosed box I have to open every time, and I realize that it’s not going to stop someone that wants to steal your rods when it’s on your lift or trailer at night. The vast majority of thefts are quick grabs at gas stations or restaurants though. 

I’d come up with a better system for a fuel gauge. I realize the electric gauges with senders aren’t reliable, but the fact that it’s common practice to use a piece of dowel rod to check the fuel level on a $50k skiff is laughable. Some type of clear tubing window would be better.


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## Cam (Apr 5, 2017)

Gatorgrizz27 said:


> I’d like locking rod holders, but it is difficult to come up with something that works with a variety of rods. I don’t want an enclosed box I have to open every time, and I realize that it’s not going to stop someone that wants to steal your rods when it’s on your lift or trailer at night. The vast majority of thefts are quick grabs at gas stations or restaurants though.


If a boat has gunnel rod holders similar to these:










It is pretty easy to drill a hole just below each holder. Then run a luggage cable lock through the hole and around the reel seat. It won't stop a determined thief but they would at least need some tools and make a racket getting the lock cut. I don't think it would be any less secure than most rod lockers since the locks on those are pathetic.


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## Padre (Jul 29, 2016)

Boatbrains said:


> Mostly all good stuff guys. I’m looking for your thoughts on the different features you like/ dislike more than what makes a boat draft more or less and not too concerned with what manufacturer you prefer over another. Things like removable hatch liners, tilt wheel, side vs center console vs tiller, maybe sliding battery trays, non skid preference??? I already know HB, Action Craft, Harry Spear, Ancona, ect... make/made great boats. Just toying around with the Idea of making a near perfect skiff and what features it should have.


Ok, I'll tell you what I would add to my boat if I was doing it over. I have an Ankona Native SUV 17. And in regards to fit and finish, it is what you pay for so I am not going to talk about that. Here are the things that I would have added: 
I would have went for the built in 12 gallon fuel cell. To save money I opted for the 6 gallon portable tank and when I get in some chop, I can't keep that thing in the bow locker. Ankona installed 2 different black type arrangements to keep the tank in there but it has broken both of them. 
The other thing I would add and I have never seen them on boats before but paddle boards, especially Botes have those large flush tie downs for coolers. I would add some of those to my boat in different spots to accommodate for different coolers. I would have 2 sets glassed in the floor in front of the CC to accommodate my Yeti 35 or 75. I would also have 2 in the bow to accommodate a cooler up there. When not in use, they are flush to the deck so no problem stubbing your toe or wrapping a fly line around them. I would have also installed flush drink holders on the deck and on the platform.


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## texasag07 (Nov 11, 2014)

Maverick hpx-v 18. 

Pretty much the perfect boat for where I fish.

Only to complaints are a cockpit to drain faster, and a better spray rail design as the skiff is a little wetter than I would like. It has no problem safely crossing some really nasty water but it is wet.


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## DBStoots (Jul 9, 2011)

The only things I would change about my HB Professional--the rod holders are difficult to access without damaging the guides, so some reengineering there. And, I've seen a few new builds with built in cup holders in the bottom or the rear bulkhead. That would be handy.


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## Indoman (Jul 25, 2013)

A exact 2/3 scale version of my 2002 Pathfinder 2200 hull with the cap / console layout of my Heron Lodge. ...but keep the gunnel height around 15”. Done with a lightweight build (400# range) and no liner. In the $10-12k price range. (Hull only)


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## Guest (May 20, 2018)

How about a cap that doesn’t break loose and leak water into the hull?


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## FlyBy (Jul 12, 2013)

Boatbrains said:


> How about a cap that doesn’t break loose and leak water into the hull?


I think I covered that.


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## Guest (May 20, 2018)

FlyBy said:


> I think I covered that.


Indeed you did, my apologies.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Boatbrains said:


> How about a cap that doesn’t break loose and leak water into the hull?


That and a beefy lip that can stand bumping dock pilings without cracking.


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## commtrd (Aug 1, 2015)

On my boat I would have gotten the rear facing rod tubes in addition to the front tubes. Would make getting the rods out from the front possible.


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

Smackdaddy and plantation looks like brothers!


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## RunningOnEmpty (Jun 20, 2015)

Smackdaddy53 said:


> I love everything about my HPX Tunnel except the area behind the rub rails from about 4’ from the bow to the stern is weak and cracks.


My hewes has fine spider cracks along the rub rail as well. The old owner must have been rough at the docks.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Backwater said:


> Smackdaddy and plantation looks like brothers!


Who’s that?


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## Plantation (Nov 24, 2015)

He's talking about our profile images. I pole lefty though.


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## Tailer (Jan 10, 2017)

commtrd said:


> On my boat I would have gotten the rear facing rod tubes in addition to the front tubes. Would make getting the rods out from the front possible.


Definitely this. I prefer to have the rods face aft. When you get to a spot, it’s so much simpler for the angler to grab the rod from the front of the boat rather than having to walk around the console while you’re trying to hop up on the platform.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Tailer said:


> Definitely this. I prefer to have the rods face aft. When you get to a spot, it’s so much simpler for the angler to grab the rod from the front of the boat rather than having to walk around the console while you’re trying to hop up on the platform.


It’s nice to have the under gunnel rod holders set up like mine. Maverick was thinking when they put both frobt and rear tubes and starboard side tubes are 1 1/2” diameter and port side are 1” for fly rods etc. I love this layout.


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## Surffshr (Dec 28, 2017)

Cam said:


> I loved the center consol
> I still prefer a stand up console with a leaning post but those are very rare on skiffs.


So this is the image I have for stand up console/leaning post. I’d modify this to be lower in general to be able to sit or stand. I think BT has a model with a backrest/step integrated into the poling platform.


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## commtrd (Aug 1, 2015)

^^^ That is very interesting. If it was a bit lower to where the feet were sitting on the deck it would be perfect. However access to the rear hatches would probably be compromised like that? My current thinking is that on a poling skiff best layout is either side console or tiller. Just opinion though. That setup still looks pretty sick though. That Lostmen would be awesome for the lower laguna madre for sure.


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## Surffshr (Dec 28, 2017)

Yeah. Definitely lower. I think a cantilevered arrangement from poling platform might allow access to the rear hatches. Even if you needed a stiff leg or two, it would be cool. I like sitting and standing both. I like the idea of the cockpit coming off the platform as that really gives 3 spots to cast drifting on the beam like my SS does (Poling(casting) platform, in front of console, and bow). The only side console I lived with was a 14’ Boston Whaler which I absolutely hated. I didn’t fit under or around that thing and had to do the Dertroit Lean to drive it. It was a work boat, but I swore them off right then. 

The other thing I’d like is the ability to putt at about 6-7 knots with little wake...Oh and the hull specifically to hold a 4s motor. I’d like to putt in quiet.


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## Gatorgrizz27 (Apr 4, 2015)

RunningOnEmpty said:


> My hewes has fine spider cracks along the rub rail as well. The old owner must have been rough at the docks.


He probably used to fish bridges, or at least catch bait there. Gets real exciting when you’re throwing the cast net while your inexperienced buddy is driving the boat.


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## CPurvis (Apr 6, 2016)

commtrd said:


> Ouch! Grounds to start looking for a different boat.
> 
> On another item: What do yall think about the poling platform moved a little more forward and lower? For better stability and ease of access. Also debatable is necessity of a live well. Especially since it seems they are always located right near the stern, right where the added weight of all that water does the most harm to clean fast hole shot. I had them do the plumbing and all for the livewell but obviously it's never gonna get used for that long as I own the boat. Could have saved a few sheckels by not ordering with the livewell plumbing. Just a few thoughts from using the boat and thinking about what I would have done different etc.


I had my skiff built with a live well not plumbed strictly for resale purposes. I use it for storage but its not that dry so storage is limited. I always think resale when I can such as no crazy colors ect...


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## CPurvis (Apr 6, 2016)

i have a very small skiff with very little to no deadrise. I find the subtle reverse chine helps keep the spray down in chop. That being said, it also makes it more necessary to place more weight up front while poling alone due to the small amount of hull slap created by the void space from the reverse chine. But every thing is a trade off. I have really grown to love this design and the benefits it provides and compensate for where it's lacking.


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## Guest (May 22, 2018)

Not only does that reverse chine keep some spray down, it provides a little lift to for slower planing speeds. Thee are trade offs for sure. Where I fish hull slap has never been an issue but I can see where it most definitely is for others.


CPurvis said:


> View attachment 29279
> i have a very small skiff with very little to no deadrise. I find the subtle reverse chine helps keep the spray down in chop. That being said, it also makes it more necessary to place more weight up front while poling alone due to the small amount of hull slap created by the void space from the reverse chime. But every thing is a trade off. I have really grown to love this design and the benefits it provides and compensate for where it's lacking.


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## Guest (May 24, 2018)

Oversized spray rails up high, yes or no? I personally don’t like the looks, but if they keep ya dryer who am I to judge? Bronze or plastic through hulls? Trim tab pockets or mounted flat on back of transom? Preferred non skid style?


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## SomaliPirate (Feb 5, 2016)

Boatbrains said:


> Oversized spray rails up high, yes or no? I personally don’t like the looks, but if they keep ya dryer who am I to judge? Bronze or plastic through hulls? Trim tab pockets or mounted flat on back of transom? Preferred non skid style?


Recessed trim tabs are the way to go, like the way Maverick does them now. My wife lost a big snook in April when he took off behind the trim tab.


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## bryson (Jun 22, 2015)

I've been using stainless for my through hulls if I can find it. It's a little cheaper than bronze, and you can find stainless pipe fittings pretty easily. Stainless ball valves are cheaper, too. I know bronze is preferred, but for a trailered boat I don't think it matters much. I still want a ball valve on every fitting below the waterline, though. I hate that I haven't figured out how to do one on my livewell drain... maybe if I ever do a full rebuild. I'd bet that over 50% of boats sink due to a broken through hull fitting.

My only beef with some non skid is that it's so abrasive, I don't want to set my reel down on it. It can make stringing up my rod kind of difficult. I would definitely have to make several test cards to get that one right.


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## LowHydrogen (Dec 31, 2015)

Didn't read all the replies so may be a repeat.

I like a light build boat with a sharp bow and soft chine that doesn't get square until way at the back (always underwater). Decent poling strakes are also a must. Doesn't matter how great a boat looks or how slick the rigging is, if it's hull is loud and poles like crap.


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## Guest (May 27, 2018)

LowHydrogen said:


> Didn't read all the replies so may be a repeat.
> 
> I like a light build boat with a sharp bow and soft chine that doesn't get square until way at the back (always underwater). Decent poling strakes are also a must. Doesn't matter how great a boat looks or how slick the rigging is, if it's hull is loud and poles like crap.


Repeats are welcome on this thread, it’s the opinion of the masses that I am after. Any thoughts on lay out LowHydrogen?


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Stainless through hulls on everything, plastic is for toys. 
If it keeps spray down while running in chop who cares what it looks like. No one likes getting soaking wet just to have a boat that looks cooler. 
Trim tab pockets are a yes for me, they are out of harm’s way, still fully functional, look cleaner and fish can’t cut you off on them as easily.


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## LowHydrogen (Dec 31, 2015)

Boatbrains said:


> Repeats are welcome on this thread, it’s the opinion of the masses that I am after. Any thoughts on lay out LowHydrogen?


Open bulkheads, no hatches to slam or squeak, tiller for simplicity, insulated coffin box mounted fore and aft does double duty as dry storage or a large cooler if needed, lid mounted on ss gas shock with a no rattle hasp.


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## Rick hambric (Jun 24, 2017)

Boatbrains said:


> Oversized spray rails up high, yes or no? I personally don’t like the looks, but if they keep ya dryer who am I to judge? Bronze or plastic through hulls? Trim tab pockets or mounted flat on back of transom? Preferred non skid style?


Up high and just big enough to do the job. It’s more about the angle and redirection of water than size. Prefer stainless thruhulls. Stepped/offset transom to recess the tabs 4” under the stern. Also the offset allows more leverage for the outboard and higher running heights. = more speed. Roll on nonskid is just fine as long as it’s not too aggressive. Some of us like to barefoot it.


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## Guest (Aug 26, 2018)

Alright folks, ya’ll have given me a ton of great things to consider. As you all know... not one boat can possibly do it all! I am designing a long hull with a somewhat narrow beam similar in size to the “GS” so you know it’s not meant for a weekend run to bimini lol! What I do hope to accomplish is a simple skiff with ample and useful dry storage that is also a lightweight hull that won’t soak and pound you too bad when running in a little chop! A skiff that is produced with quality materials that won’t chalk up in a year because it sees a little sunshine. Just bumping to the top for more great ideas, ya’ll stay tuned!


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## Seymour fish (May 13, 2018)

commtrd said:


> All of my previous boats until the Hells Bay have been TX scooters. And I still love that design for what it was designed to do: run where mostly only air boats can go. Plus they are like barges, so stable due to the width. Super fishable with spinning gear or baitcast. But most use them for water taxi to get out and wade more than fish on them.
> 
> Someday I might buy another scooter hull, but the attributes of the skiff I now have just make it so I really prefer a skiff. No sliding in turns, doesn't destroy my knees with the scooter hull beatdown, don't have to run a huge outboard. What it boils down to is what a fisherman wants out of a boat. And a scooter is just as much a specialty type hull as a skiff is. Personally if I was going to get another scooter it would be a Curlew. Those are just beautiful boats with quality construction. Horses for courses and all that...


Comm, had a Curlew. Was a dry boat, floated skinny, ran across 4” hard sand, got up an inch skinnier than current hpx-T if you didn’t mind burning the prop. Beautifully crafted. Had bad hull slap and was high effort to pole = unrewarding. More finicky to prop than some. Seaworthy but no majic in a chop. Paradoxically the Ibis poles better.and spans the chop A CRP is perfect match. Tunnel still slaps but the fish seem less put off.


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## Seymour fish (May 13, 2018)

commtrd said:


> Ouch! Grounds to start looking for a different boat.
> 
> On another item: What do yall think about the poling platform moved a little more forward and lower? For better stability and ease of access. Also debatable is necessity of a live well. Especially since it seems they are always located right near the stern, right where the added weight of all that water does the most harm to clean fast hole shot. I had them do the plumbing and all for the livewell but obviously it's never gonna get used for that long as I own the boat. Could have saved a few sheckels by not ordering with the livewell plumbing. Just a few thoughts from using the boat and thinking about what I would have done different etc.


Poling platform mover a bit forward helps in a hull subject to aft drag obviating one reason for sponsons but PITA avoiding the motor with the pole. Not a home run but overall advantage


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Seymour fish said:


> Poling platform mover a bit forward helps in a hull subject to aft drag obviating one reason for sponsons but PITA avoiding the motor with the pole. Not a home run but overall advantage


If you pole a lot you want the platform as far back as possible and the motor as far underneath the poling deck as possible so you’re not beating the cowling up with the pole. Been there done that. If you want weight forward get the batteries in the bow hatch and cooler as far forward as possible.


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## Seymour fish (May 13, 2018)

Yep, optimal if you can balance it out


Smackdaddy53 said:


> If you pole a lot you want the platform as far back as possible and the motor as far underneath the poling deck as possible so you’re not beating the cowling up with the pole. Been there done that. If you want weight forward get the batteries in the bow hatch and cooler as far forward as possible.


Mac, of course you are correct up until you run out of weight to move and real estate


Smackdaddy53 said:


> If you pole a lot you want the platform as far back as possible and the motor as far underneath the poling deck as possible so you’re not beating the cowling up with the pole. Been there done that. If you want weight forward get the batteries in the bow hatch and cooler as far forward as possible.


ac


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Seymour fish said:


> Yep, optimal if you can balance it out
> 
> Mac, of course you are correct up until you run out of weight to move and real estate
> 
> ac


I’ve taken my front of console 45 quart ice chest and set it on the front casting platform when poling alone and it worked great. I hope there aren’t true poling skiffs out there that aren’t set up with much more weight behind the console. One more reason I love my Yamaha 70 2 stroke!


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

My perfect skiff is the one in BoatBrains shed that I can use and put back dirty. But I will refill with gas.


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## Guest (Aug 28, 2018)

DuckNut said:


> My perfect skiff is the one in BoatBrains shed that I can use and put back dirty. But I will refill with gas.


Ducknut, I believe you have found that elusive perfect skiff. I’ll check my shed later lol!


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## Guest (Aug 28, 2018)

It wasn’t there... Yet! Maybe Santa will bring me it in 2020??? We’ll have to wait I guess lol!


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