# Converted 12V MinnKota Terrova to 24V



## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

If you have time make a DIY thread on how you did this, it would help some folks somewhere down the road.


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## MikeDinWP (Jan 2, 2020)

Holy smokes! I'm at 19 posts!! Just about over the transom! It wasn't too hard. I just carefully looked at the user manual (MIN_productmanual_RT-Terrova.pdf) and cross all the different parts between 12 and 24 volts. The 36 Volt option is also a consideration but adds more stuff to the list.
List of parts:
1) 2777034 - 24V Trolling Motor (Most expensive item, plus extra charge for shipping)
2) 2774069 - 24V Control Board w/i-Pilot connector (second most expensive item)
3) 2074081 - 24V Battery Meter
4) 1378132 - 4" Prop (the prop is larger on the 24V model)
5) 2777061 - 24V Steering Motor kit
6) 2997904 - 80# Hub/Spring (The 24V motor is 4" and is heavier. This conversion part might be optional... it's for the assist lift and it's easy to change at any time. it's nearly $70)
7) 2323930 - 4" Right Motor Ramp (24V is 4", 12V is 3.75" diameter)
8) 2323935 - 4" Left Motor Ramp

That's it! The only issue was splitting the steering hub. I was very careful and used a round punch at the weep hole to work the halves apart. There are (4) alignment pins that keep the steering hub together. Most of the screws I put anti-seize. I also used Red thread locker on the motor ramp screws (544) and Blue thread locker on the screw that screws into (546). The Control Board wiring diagram is also in the PDF. I took a picture just to make it easy... that's the only complex wiring. This was so easy that I'm going to tear down my trolling motor a year to clean it and replace any corroded parts ( I found one... so my next maintenance I'll replace it. And the Steering Motor gasket ( I was careful not to damage it... but I won't reuse it a second time).

I still don't have a warranty... But I have a brand new trolling motor! And I'll be able to fix/replace anything. MinnKota part site is very easy to use. BTW... For anyone who wants a shorter shaft length... it's super easy to cut to any length you want. All you need is a fine-tooth hack saw, metal tube to protect the trolling motor wire,s and a 1/8" drill bill to drill the head hole... no problem!


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## Loogie (Jul 24, 2019)

MikeDinWP said:


> Holy smokes! I'm at 19 posts!! Just about over the transom! It wasn't too hard. I just carefully looked at the user manual (MIN_productmanual_RT-Terrova.pdf) and cross all the different parts between 12 and 24 volts. The 36 Volt option is also a consideration but adds more stuff to the list.
> List of parts:
> 1) 2777034 - 24V Trolling Motor (Most expensive item, plus extra charge for shipping)
> 2) 2774069 - 24V Control Board w/i-Pilot connector (second most expensive item)
> ...


Do shorten the shaft from the top side or bottom?


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## MikeDinWP (Jan 2, 2020)

The shaft is cut from the top... once you remove the screws holding the head together... there is only one bolt that holds the lower half to the shaft. You will need some heat-shrink to reconnect the power leads to the motor leads...


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## jasonrl23 (Jul 27, 2009)

MikeDinWP said:


> Holy smokes! I'm at 19 posts!! Just about over the transom! It wasn't too hard. I just carefully looked at the user manual (MIN_productmanual_RT-Terrova.pdf) and cross all the different parts between 12 and 24 volts. The 36 Volt option is also a consideration but adds more stuff to the list.
> List of parts:
> 1) 2777034 - 24V Trolling Motor (Most expensive item, plus extra charge for shipping)
> 2) 2774069 - 24V Control Board w/i-Pilot connector (second most expensive item)
> ...


Thank you! I have the exact motor. Gonna keep this in mind for down the road.


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## bcblues (Apr 10, 2018)

What was the ballpark cost for the conversion?


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## MikeDinWP (Jan 2, 2020)

About $870... that includes tax and shipping...


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## jasonrl23 (Jul 27, 2009)

MikeDinWP said:


> About $870... that includes tax and shipping...


Did upgrading fix your issue? My pontoon gets knocked off spot lock easily with a little wind


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

When cutting these shafts down I found a simple hack to keep from cutting through the wiring inside. I have a bunch of stainless tubing from work and used a piece of 1/2” and ran the wires through it and slide it inside the shaft to protect the wires while you cut through. You can cut the shaft down and retain the factory wire connections just cut the heat shrink off and use new pieces when you assemble it all. Coil the wiring inside the head instead of cutting the ends.


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## MikeDinWP (Jan 2, 2020)

The 24V Motor has significantly more thrust than the 12V Motor. A pontoon boat has a lot of surface area for wind to catch. You can actually go to 36V Motor, that conversion I think has a few more parts. Of course, it would cost more and you would need (3) 12V batteries or some other 36V solution.


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## jasonrl23 (Jul 27, 2009)

MikeDinWP said:


> The 24V Motor has significantly more thrust than the 12V Motor. A pontoon boat has a lot of surface area for wind to catch. You can actually go to 36V Motor, that conversion I think has a few more parts. Of course, it would cost more and you would need (3) 12V batteries or some other 36V solution.


My pontoon is all electric. Have 270 amp hours for my trolling motor as is. Don’t mind adding a 3rd. Thanks for the info!


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