# Engine down or up when trailering?



## NoOne (Apr 9, 2021)

My BT Micro Evinrude ETEC 30hp owners manual says to either trailer it vertical or by using a trailering bracket. However, previous owner has trailered it with the tilt bracket lock with no issues. Buddy with a large boat also trailers with his engines up and tilted. 

How do you trailer?


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## MatthewAbbott (Feb 25, 2017)

I use the bracket with my etec on my BT Micro


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## NativeBone (Aug 16, 2017)




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## Cape 914 (Jul 4, 2017)

I also use a bracket.


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## Drifter (Dec 13, 2018)

I have a Yami 70 and I have the tilt lock on. I drive ALOT. No issues yet.


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## Rookiemistake (Jan 30, 2013)

Transom saver


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## NoOne (Apr 9, 2021)

NativeBone said:


> View attachment 207470


You just wedge those in there and tilt the engine down on them?


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## NoOne (Apr 9, 2021)

MatthewAbbott said:


> I use the bracket with my etec on my BT Micro


Got a link to the one you use?


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## NativeBone (Aug 16, 2017)

NoOne said:


> You just wedge those in there and tilt the engine down on them?


Yes, sir! On every motor I have owned.


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## TheAdamsProject (Oct 29, 2007)

I use the M-Y Wedge that looks like a brick of rubber than goes on the trim ram. I cut it down a little so my motor isnt trimmed up as much while trailering.


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## MatthewAbbott (Feb 25, 2017)

NoOne said:


> Got a link to the one you use?


I use the bracket that’s on the motor.


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## SS06 (Apr 6, 2021)

BT Micro owner here w/ Suzuki 30....I use the My- Wedge....works like a charm


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## VB Fly Fisher (Mar 23, 2018)

Another vote for the My-Wedge. Always use when trailering


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## Zika (Aug 6, 2015)

One more for the M-Y Wedge. Have been using them on several boats now.


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## coconutgroves (Sep 23, 2013)

Never seen M-Y Wedge - thanks guys, I'll check it out.

I've have always used a transom saver on all my boats. My Whipray, and before this my B2, didn't allow me to use the engine bracket due to engine trim and platform clearance.

But a good question - I have always though that the transom saver displaces some of the engine weight to the trailer, reducing the amount of load on the transom. Hence, transom saver.

The wedge hold the engine in place from bouncing, but would not displace weight. I am curious if anyone has thoughts on this. A good transom is reinforced to handle a lot of weight and force from the engine while in use, so maybe it isn't a big deal.


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## hipshot (Sep 29, 2018)

If using the M-Y Wedge make sire the tilt ram housing on your outboard is metal. The one on my Honda 30 looked like black metal and I never really gave it a second thought. Turns out it’s plastic, and it eventually cracked. Mac discovered it when he installed my ZCC pickup, and replaced it. A transom saver won’t work with my trailer unless I do a lot of modification, so that’s out. I use a short section of a shovel handle at the top of the bracket behind the tilt tube. Tilt up, lay the handle in sideways, and tilt down on it. It supports the outboard with the skeg well up away from the road. The 30 isn’t all that heavy, and I don’t expect any issues.


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## SS06 (Apr 6, 2021)

As far as displacing weight, I don't believe that the weight of an outboard hanging on a properly constructed transom comes anywhere near the forces exerted when the outboard is running. Does a transom saver hurt...of course not...but I don't believe they are necessary. I use the wedge.


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## SkiffaDeeDooDah (Jan 20, 2020)

I use the M-Y Wedge hard rubber block as well, and it's great. However, I would be using the MotorMate support system if they made one for my Suzuki 90, but they are only available for Merc, Yamaha, Evinrude and Honda. I had one for my 115 SHO and loved it. Not only does it provide vertical support (from the lowest/strongest area of the transom) - it keeps the motor rock steady from side to side movement as well. IMO, the transom saver that connects your motor directly to the trailer for support could actually put harmful stress and jarring on your transom when you hit bumps in the road while towing. Boat and motor are one unit - trailer is another.


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## Zika (Aug 6, 2015)

M-Y Wedge also makes the "clips" for hydraulic steering. Hard rubber like the engine wedge, but pliable enough to snap over the steering rods and keep the engine centered while trailering. I use a pair of those as well.


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## DBStoots (Jul 9, 2011)

Zika said:


> M-Y Wedge also makes the "clips" for hydraulic steering. Hard rubber like the engine wedge, but pliable enough to snap over the steering rods and keep the engine centered while trailering. I use a pair of those as well.


TH Marine also makes a really good pair of these.


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## Poontangler (Jul 13, 2017)

Wood block fan!


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## mt hwy (Mar 18, 2021)

Transom saver vs block/wedge/flip down bracket - grab the motor lower unit while in the tilted position and shake and lift up and down - anything more than slight movement do your weak transom a favor and use a transom saver which will transfer some load to the trailer. Otherwise, you've got a solid transom - and you're lucky!


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## exit (Aug 22, 2017)

Another vote for the M-Y wedge. I have used commercial brackets and homemade wood blocks but nothing is simpler or worked better than the M-Y device.


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## STXAngler (May 26, 2021)

I was taught many years ago, the transom is the weakest point on a boat. With all the trailering on roads, especially rough roads, the weight of the engine is pulling down on the transom. The center of gravity, when the motor is trimmed up and braced by a transom saver, reduces the stress on the transom. When the motor is in a down position, the weight of the motor is increased quite a bit when driving on rough roads, therefore pulling down greatly on the transom and stressing it. The transom saver displaces at least part of that energy to the trailer.


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## LastCast (Jun 13, 2012)

When I had my Maverick 17T I used the transom saver. On my larger flats boat I have always used a transom saver


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## mt hwy (Mar 18, 2021)

yep, and why not just use a transom saver - whether you have a solid transom or not? It takes off some load and puts it on that rear trailer cross member. And in the rockies where I do most of my trailering, its like a friggin rodeo just driving to some of the places I fish, so it makes sense. Smooth flat roads, you do whatever...


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## Skiffed (May 11, 2021)

Depending on how far and what type of road conditions would advise something better than nothing. Even if it’s a piece of wood. Transom will be fine but trim and tilt is a pain and expensive to get rebuilt. No sense in trying to be that guy who says you don’t need it hero. If you could run your jack plate 2/3 the way up and negative trim on the motor and not lose your skeg is the only way I would do it.


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## SkiffaDeeDooDah (Jan 20, 2020)

Skiffed said:


> Depending on how far and what type of road conditions would advise something better than nothing. Even if it’s a piece of wood. Transom will be fine but trim and tilt is a pain and expensive to get rebuilt. No sense in trying to be that guy who says you don’t need it hero. If you could run your jack plate 2/3 the way up and negative trim on the motor and not lose your skeg is the only way I would do it.


Kind of a contradiction there (trim & tilt actuator is expensive to replace/repair) but it's best to trailer with your jack plate raised. Atlas Jack Plates Co. specifically warns that the JP should be lowered all the way down when towing the boat on a trailer. I use the M-Y Wedge hard rubber block and it works great to keep the stress off the trim & tilt. I use Gatorbak Gator-Lock 4" hydraulic steering rod protectors to keep the motor steady as well. My transom is the strongest I've ever seen, so I'm lucky with that. If I had reason to be concerned, I would try every trick in the book, including all suggestions in this thread, to keep the transom from failing.

Edit: I think a M-Y Wedge hard rubber block could be used to protect the actuator on the jack plate if it was cut to fit. Then you could safely tow the boat down the road with the JP raised a bit.


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## tailchaser16 (Sep 23, 2008)

A 4”x 4” piece of wood is my support


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## CKEAT (Aug 26, 2015)

STXAngler said:


> I was taught many years ago, the transom is the weakest point on a boat. With all the trailering on roads, especially rough roads, the weight of the engine is pulling down on the transom. The center of gravity, when the motor is trimmed up and braced by a transom saver, reduces the stress on the transom. When the motor is in a down position, the weight of the motor is increased quite a bit when driving on rough roads, therefore pulling down greatly on the transom and stressing it. The transom saver displaces at least part of that energy to the trailer.


It also transfers quite a bit of energy from the road through the trailer into the lower unit / engine. I stopped using those years ago for that reason.

The bass guys all use the motor mate style now and they tow more than anyone with big 250-300 horse engines. I used the motor mate for 5 years on my bay boat with 250 SHO. Worked perfectly.


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## DBStoots (Jul 9, 2011)

CKEAT said:


> It also transfers quite a bit of energy from the road through the trailer into the lower unit / engine. I stopped using those years ago for that reason.
> 
> The bass guys all use the motor mate style now and they tow more than anyone with big 250-300 horse engines. I used the motor mate for 5 years on my bay boat with 250 SHO. Worked perfectly.


Could you post a couple of pic's of your Motor Mate? How hard was the installation? Any idea what it weighs?


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## AVL-NC (Jul 3, 2017)

Anther vote for M-Y Wedge. On an EVO-X with 90 SHO, I trailer a minimum of 300 miles each way to SC coast and usually twice to SW FL each year...1500-mile round trip. It's the best $40 I've spent. You will not be disappointed.


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## Skiffed (May 11, 2021)

Skiffed said:


> Depending on how far and what type of road conditions would advise something better than nothing. Even if it’s a piece of wood. Transom will be fine but trim and tilt is a pain and expensive to get rebuilt. No sense in trying to be that guy who says you don’t need it hero. If you could run your jack plate 2/3 the way up and negative trim on the motor and not lose your skeg is the only way I would do it.


Some of my advice is general and some to specific situation at hand. Depending on the weight of the motor for example i wouldnt run the plate up much at all if it were a 150 or more, and use the yamaha rubber thing, or mercury motor holder contraption, or even a block of wood and a ratchet strap. Getting the powerhead as close to center of gravity as possible to transfer the load. I have heard mixed reviews historically on the trailer to lower unit type holders. If its a 90hp or less motor it will bounce more going down the road and put more strain on the trim/tilt rather than the transom or the jack plate. Keeping it from bouncing would be the main goal. As far as overall strain on the transom, i doubt ever that going down the road with a reasonably secure 90hp or less motor will ever put as much strain on it as getting up on plane with 2 people in the boat. Just my thoughts do whatever your comfortable doing.


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## mt hwy (Mar 18, 2021)

CKEAT said:


> It also transfers quite a bit of energy from the road through the trailer into the lower unit / engine. I stopped using those years ago for that reason.
> 
> The bass guys all use the motor mate style now and they tow more than anyone with big 250-300 horse engines. I used the motor mate for 5 years on my bay boat with 250 SHO. Worked perfectly.


Interesting concept. Although, seems like the boat, trailer and motor would all be moving as one with a transom saver, with the motor supported toward the end of its lever - not allowing it to become a weighted lever, prevented from gaining momentum to stress the transom, the lower unit/trailer connection prevents that. Without that trailer support on the lower unit, the motor is only supported by the transom, no matter how you slice it, and any little bump in the road and that heavy motor levering off the back gains energy and transfers it to the transom. Seems like a leverage thing to me without the trailer supporting the lower unit ? But hey, if the transom is good and strong ...


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## hipshot (Sep 29, 2018)

I believe that running — on plane, not idling — in rough water causes the most stress your transom is subjected to. While on the trailer, assuming that the boat is properly strapped down, there should not be any significant movement between the hull and the trailer . That would mean that a conventional transom saver isn’t transnitting any movement to the lower unit. In my mind the real benefit of supporting the outboard is to prevent shock to the tilt and trim hydraulics. Tilting the outboard up high would seem to be more about protecting the skeg, prop, and lower unit in general from road damage. I would think that having the outboard straight up and down would cause the least stress to the transom when trailering. Tilting the outboard way up moves the center of gravity away from the transom. If one had some sort of support for the jack plate, trailering with the outboard vertical and the jack plate all the way up might be the safest way to trailer for some rigs; certainly for tunnel hulls with high mounted outboards. I have no industry studies or data to back this up; it’s just the way it appears to me.


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## Charles J. Foschini (Nov 28, 2019)

NoOne said:


> My BT Micro Evinrude ETEC 30hp owners manual says to either trailer it vertical or by using a trailering bracket. However, previous owner has trailered it with the tilt bracket lock with no issues. Buddy with a large boat also trailers with his engines up and tilted.
> 
> How do you trailer?


I learned to use the Bracket for anything more than a very short distance. It's much better for the Transom over time.


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