# Smoothing out my Stiffy



## flaco (Feb 14, 2007)

I have a fiberglass 18' Stiffy push pole, and it's starting to get rough, and leave little bits of glass in my hands. I have a homemade stake-out sleeve on my poling platform, and it's been scraping on that, and causing the problem. 

Has anyone refinished one? Can you just put some resin on it and sand?


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## cal1320 (Jun 6, 2007)

I have a loomis pole doing the same thing. Lets hear from the experts.


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

You can gloss coat a push pole with spar varnish.
Wet sand with 240 grit and let dry.
Wipe with dry cloth.
Apply a thin coat of varnish, let dry.
Light dry sanding with 320 grit, wipe clean.
Second coat. Done.

You don't have to varnish the whole pole,
just the worn sections.

Problem is, you will have to continue
to repeat this regularly as sunlight and use
will make the varnish brittle and crack.

That glass fibers in the hand syndrome,
is why all my pushpoles have been
1-1/4" wood dowels, sealed with teak oil,
with a wood skeg attached.


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## snooknreds2 (May 5, 2008)

why not just sand it and then put a thin layer of epoxy resign over it?


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

Why not just sand it and then put a thin layer of epoxy resin over it? 

That I can answer also,
epoxy resin has no resistance to uv radiation,
exposure to sunlight will cause the epoxy to crumble.
Learned that during research into epoxy construction
for the Slipper. All epoxy work that will be used outdoors
has to be coated with a uv barrier of some sort, be it
paint or spar varnish to prevent the problem.

http://www.oneoceankayaks.com/Epoxtest.htm


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## noeettica (Sep 23, 2007)

Imron or Aerothane ?


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

What does a half pint of imron or aerothane cost?
What does a half pint of spar varnish cost?


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

found someone else with the same problem in this FAQ:

http://www.wetdogcharters.com/MAIN%20PAGES/FAQ.htm

Copied from website:

First, sand the loose and cracked clear coat down the length of the entire pole. You do not want any deteriorating paint to break loose after refinishing. You will probably not get a paint dealer to recommend anything useful - at least that was my experience. Go to K-Mart and buy their lacquer clear coat. You will need about four (4) cans. Figure out a way to support the push pole at both ends. Using the arm rests of two lawn chairs is practical but the wife might throw a fit. Spray ONE coat on each side and then above for the whole length of the pole. Let dry per paint directions. Rotate the pole 180 degrees and repeat. Repeat this over several days and you will have built up a nice base of clear coat. In the future, try to keep your push pole out of the sun as much as possible.

o Use Krylon’s k07006 clear polyurethane spray paint in satin.

o Use Awlgrip. It is a very expensive solution but is very tough and does not break down in the sun. The pole is 10 years old and I repainted it last year just because the first paint coat was getting worn (black pole & white paint so it was showing wear). Now it is yellow to match the boat. You don't need much Awlgrip, so I would suggest checking marina repair yards to see if they have a partial can you could get. It requires additives (a flow modifier if you brush it and a hardener since it is an epoxy type paint). West Marine has two part paints (but not Awlgrip - that is only sold commercially) that should work as well.


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## snooknreds2 (May 5, 2008)

A little bit more expensive route but what if you wrapped it like a fishing pole with some cool azz design and then used flex coat to finish it off. It would be some what expensive, compared tot eh other options, but man that would be one cool push pole!!!!!


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## Kemo (Jun 22, 2008)

Mine is a 10 foot piece of 1-1/2 pvc pipe with "T's" at each end.  It was free.  I don't use it except in really shallow water, and I don't use a polling platform.  I know some of you are more demanding, and sometimes I'd like to have the best, too.  If it was me, I'd go for the closet rod wooden pole, unless I was ALWAYS polling.  If you want a really long one (who wouldn't), and you like light weight and strength and flexibility, then get yourself a carbon fibre pole from Joe.  What you'll save in maintenance will make up for the difference.  Get his rod holders, too.   

Kemo


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## Guest (Nov 20, 2008)

It's an 18' Stiffy fiberglass pole.

I would spray it with "appliance enamel" from a home improvement store, sand and spray again with 2 to 3 more coats, finishing by sanding w/ 400 grit. Touch up as necessary and all for about 15 bucks.

but that's just my .0000000000000000002 sense.

CR


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## ko (Jun 9, 2007)

You can also put on a piece of heat shrink tubing. Gives a nice soft grip...


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## Kemo (Jun 22, 2008)

Ko - Where do you get heat shrink in that large of a diameter? That's a good idea, and would also work on a closet rod pole.


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## Gramps (Nov 1, 2007)

I know www.sollercomposites.com has some pretty big heat shrink. 

http://www.buyheatshrink.com/heatshrinktubing/2to1polyolefin.htm#B

http://www.skycraftsurplus.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=1067

Sheesh I feel like Brett!  (Sorry couldn't help myself)


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## ko (Jun 9, 2007)

I've used the stuff from soller that Gramps mentioned...black but fairly soft feels like rubber, and makes a nice grip. I've seen other large shrink that has a vinyl feel....have not used it but might work or might feel slick if wet. Not too expensive for a few feet, so if you don't like something just cut it off and try another kind. DO NOT get the kind with glue on the inside as it is tough to get off/replace. Another place is cableorganizer.com.


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## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

> earlier today per gramps:
> Sheesh I feel like Brett!   (Sorry couldn't help myself)


Don't be sorry, find the info, post it, those that need it will use it.
No need to explain something if someone else already has...

                                            

Those of you that like your expensive poles are welcome to them.

I'm frugal (polite way of saying penny pincher)
the economy bites right now...so...

1-1/4" wood dowel is a buck 29 a foot so that's about 21 dollars for 16'
2 (3" stainless screws) cost 80 cents
a chunk of 1x4 12" long costs a buck 45
a bottle of teak oil is 7 bucks

Belt sander puts a point on the pole
and a flat spot on the side of the last foot of the butt
Shape the 1x4 into a simple skeg
drill 2 holes thru the pole into the edge of the skeg
2 screws to fasten the skeg on with
and one rag to rub the oil on the wood.
Let set overnight and I have a fully workable pushpole.
The 1x4 skeg can also act as a rudder during a drift, or as a paddle.
I'm no guide, so the extra pound or two isn't going to worry me.
I can use the exercise.
Build one, it's cheap, fast, easy










When using the pole, the skeg rides on top,
not pushed into the bottom,
this keeps the load down the center of the pole.


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## cal1320 (Jun 6, 2007)

> Those of you that like your expensive poles are welcome to them.


I like that the Loomis is so light. However, if I hadn't gotten it with another boat I certainly wouldn't pay for one.  Most times I'm poling, you will find me standing on the bow with my 8' PVC push pole. Narrow boats don't take well to being on the back without someone else up front to even out the weight.


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