# fly lines



## snookdlb (Aug 28, 2010)

I throw the airflo clear tip on both my 6 and 8 weights, it casts well on my Scott. I'm a firm believer you have to match the rod with the line. 8 weight fly lines vary a lot between gram weights and taper types. The long head long casts; short head short casts policy has always seemed to work for me.


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

snookdlb said:


> I throw the airflo clear tip on both my 6 and 8 weights, it casts well on my Scott. I'm a firm believer you have to match the rod with the line. 8 weight fly lines vary a lot between gram weights and taper types. The long head long casts; short head short casts policy has always seemed to work for me.





bjtripp83 said:


> 3 posts from a thread on charleston site. anyone have thoughts or know of a thread in the archives addressing?
> 
> ---What's everyone's favorite line to throw at redfish? And what's everyone's favorite line to throw at bonefish? Or your favorite line that can be used for both? I've always liked the rio redfish and bonefish taper lines. I've had both of them and they perform great but the line seems to have drag when it's coming out of the guides because of the pvc coating. I use the scientific anglers sharkskin saltwater taper right now and I love it but it is hard to throw in windy conditions. So what's everyone throw? Id really like any input on the airflo lines. Btw I mainly use an 8 weight for reds and bones.
> 
> ...


bjtripp83, try slowly stretching "ALL" the line before you start casting it. That will get all the coiling and memory out of both the head and the shooting/running line and also help the line to be more supple. Then dress the line with either "Glide" (if you can still find it), or armor all (which I'm not a fan of) or coconut oil (which is a dressing I figured out on my own and works good (never seen or heard of anyone else using it and does not harm your coatings or PVC lines)). Btw, when I mean dress the line, I mean go over it with a cloth soaked if the stuff, about 4 times. Do both of these things every time you start the day out and I guarantee you will add 10 to 20 ft to your cast! If you already know and do this, then great! But I'm hoping others will chine in that don't know about this little but much needed trick, to help with their casting and be more productive.

I do like the Rio Redifsh, but our weather stays warmer down here in the southern half of Florida. My new favorite lines are the Cortland Liquid Crystal Flats Taper for an all around bonefish/ redfish line. I prefer the clear since I don't need to watch my loops and can cast by feel. I especially like it with our spooky fish in gin clear water. But they make a sky blue version if you need to watch your fly line and the water is a little murker and fish are less spooky. The coating is amazing and it's basically a clear or clear tip floating line. Cortland also make a good clear intermediate line, which you can use for the deeper cuts to get your fly down deeper. I don't know how those lines behave in cold water, but you can give Chris a call at Cortland and ask what he recommends. They also make a "guide" version of that line which is a 1/2 line wt heavier for slightly larger flies or if you need to load the rod quicker/shorter. Either way, the stuff cast line a dream!

http://www.cortlandline.com/fly-fishing/freshwater/liquid-crystal/flats-taper-clear


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## Capt. Eli Whidden (Jun 7, 2012)

I'm a big fan of the SA mastery series bonefish line. Use it both for bonefish and Redfish here in South Florida. 

I'm not fan of clear lines for bonefish. The flies we use are much smaller than most redfish flies. It can be hard to see the take. Seeing the fly line bump along with feeling the strike gives another advantage.


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## sjrobin (Jul 13, 2015)

Capt. Eli Whidden said:


> I'm a big fan of the SA mastery series bonefish line. Use it both for bonefish and Redfish here in South Florida.
> 
> I'm not fan of clear lines for bonefish. The flies we use are much smaller than most redfish flies. It can be hard to see the take. Seeing the fly line bump along with feeling the strike gives another advantage.


Clear floating lines might make a difference in clear no wind conditions casting at very spooky fish. I have not tried clear, but might be worth filling a spare spool with the clear floating. I have never used Cortland lines but might give them a cast. Anyone else use the new Cortland flats taper?


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## Capt. Eli Whidden (Jun 7, 2012)

Those are usually the toughest days to bonefish. In that case, which is rare, a 15 leader is the ticket. Maybe..... 

Luckily, there is usually a breeze. 

Where clear fly lines really come in to play is during our spring migration of tarpon.


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## JaxLaxFish (Aug 23, 2010)

It's been my experience that when there is drag it is because the water temp is too high for that line and when the line has too much memory it is because the water temp is too low for that line. For rods I don't use much and don't usually need to cast very far such as my 5 weight I try to strike a good balance between the two. Scientific Anglers makes a general line called Saltwater that my dad likes for this purpose. I usually just buy whatever is on sale. For my rods that get a lot of use I prefer to have a tropical line for summer and a cold water line for winter (I'm sure whatever is labeled for striper would work, I'm interested in trying out the Orvis Bankshot). Be careful with the tropical line because I'm told many bonefish and permit lines are designed for much longer casts than you're gonna be making in the lowcountry. I have been happy with the Royal Wulff Bermuda Triangle Taper for summer use in NE FL which is a very similar fishery to yours. Hope this helps.


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

kmw08e said:


> It's been my experience that when there is drag it is because the water temp is too high for that line and when the line has too much memory it is because the water temp is too low for that line. For rods I don't use much and don't usually need to cast very far such as my 5 weight I try to strike a good balance between the two. Scientific Anglers makes a general line called Saltwater that my dad likes for this purpose. I usually just buy whatever is on sale. For my rods that get a lot of use I prefer to have a tropical line for summer and a cold water line for winter (I'm sure whatever is labeled for striper would work, I'm interested in trying out the Orvis Bankshot). Be careful with the tropical line because I'm told many bonefish and permit lines are designed for much longer casts than you're gonna be making in the lowcountry. I have been happy with the Royal Wulff Bermuda Triangle Taper for summer use in NE FL which is a very similar fishery to yours. Hope this helps.



I've seen many lines in warm temps having terrible memory. But you are right that there are mfgs that produce lines for certain temps and your point of looking at striper lines for winter fishing in the Carolinas is a good point. I've thrown an SA Mastery Striper line and it punches. Not a huge fan of the braided core lines with the "zip" effect, but it works well for what they are meant for. But analysis of the flies you are throwing, locations of where the fish are and conditions will help determine which lines is best, aside from the water temps. The Striper lines are design with bigger, front weighted heads design to throw large flies into blustery winds. The line is heavy and crashes on the water. OK for big open water or surf, but not so good for shallow water spooky reds. Your Wulff Triangle is similar to that, designed for quick load plops on short or punching thru windy days. But the presentation is more predominate and assertive than gentle.

With spooky bonefish, those lines would spook the whole school if that line splashes in front of them on a calm day. That's why the make a bonefish taper. The taper is design for very gentle presentations with very small, light weight flies. It also can handle winds but only with the very small bonefish flies and you need plenty of back cast room to get the very long head out of the rod tip to properly load. Basically the belly and tapers of the head are longer and thinner than a standard saltwater, redfish or bass bug line. So it's not the best for throwing larger flies at reds where shorter, quick load casts might be needed.

Redfish, triangle or wind tamer lines are typically a shorter head with a very short front taper and the belly has a larger diameter. The weight of the head is further in front of the line than most general purpose wt fwd lines. I've found tho that these lines can be a crutch for those who do not properly throw in the wind and yet still want or need to get the fly out there. Not saying they do not have their place, but they do. I actually like a Rio Redfish for short close in casting around tight mangroves for snook and reds. But using them as a crutch or in most conditions will limit you into being more productive. Nothing else is a good substitute for good casting techniques.

Standard flats, saltwater and bass tapers are somewhere in the middle of the 2 lines for more general purpose fly fishing where you can throw moderate standard flies tied for the appropriate wt lines with a long enough front taper to still provide a decent presentation, relative to those standard fly size used. If you know how to properly throw in and around the winds, then it works just fine.

I come from the school of thought in regards to fly fishing where.... (in this case) I like the least needed to make an appropriate cast to the fish with the least amount of notice to the fish that I'm here trying to catch him, is the minimal rod, flyline, leader and fly needed for the job, but sufficient enough to catch his eye, hook it, fight it properly and land it. It's a balance game and the better you get at that, the more productive and actually more fun this sport can be to you. As a crude example of the above, I've caught big tarpon on 8wts and pup reds on 10wts. Either one are not fun! The bottom line is, the right tool for the right job is key here. 

All that being said, I'm going to go back to a saying I often use (and others have hear me repeatedly on this sight about this), be careful of picking just any ole line that's on sale. With the right or wrong lines you can.....; take a crap cheap rod, lined with a very good line and cause it to cast beautifully. On the flip side, you can take a beautiful expensive rod and string it with crap line and cause it to throw and feel like a crap rod! 

Ted Haas


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## sjrobin (Jul 13, 2015)

Backwater said:


> I've seen many lines in warm temps having terrible memory. But you are right that there are mfgs that produce lines for certain temps and your point of looking at striper lines for winter fishing in the Carolinas is a good point. I've thrown an SA Mastery Striper line and it punches. Not a huge fan of the braided core lines with the "zip" effect, but it works well for what they are meant for. But analysis of the flies you are throwing, locations of where the fish are and conditions will help determine which lines is best, aside from the water temps. The Striper lines are design with bigger, front weighted heads design to throw large flies into blustery winds. The line is heavy and crashes on the water. OK for big open water or surf, but not so good for shallow water spooky reds. Your Wulff Triangle is similar to that, designed for quick load plops on short or punching thru windy days. But the presentation is more predominate and assertive than gentle.
> 
> With spooky bonefish, those lines would spook the whole school if that line splashes in front of them on a calm day. That's why the make a bonefish taper. The taper is design for very gentle presentations with very small, light weight flies. It also can handle winds but only with the very small bonefish flies and you need plenty of back cast room to get the very long head out of the rod tip to properly load. Basically the belly and tapers of the head are longer and thinner than a standard saltwater, redfish or bass bug line. So it's not the best for throwing larger flies at reds where shorter, quick load casts might be needed.
> 
> ...


Great fly line explanation Ted. I recently made the mistake of putting a new reel with Rio redfish line on an old Sage Graphite II and the rod did not perform well at distance. I am not a great caster any way so the result was not pretty. And the Sage was the only fly rod I had on the skiff with pods of reds every where. Also I have a difficult time adjusting my timing going from a fast rod to a slower rod especially with a over lined rod.


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

sjrobin said:


> Great fly line explanation Ted. I recently made the mistake of putting a new reel with Rio redfish line on an old Sage Graphite II and the rod did not perform well at distance. I am not a great caster any way so the result was not pretty. And the Sage was the only fly rod I had on the skiff with pods of reds every where. Also I have a difficult time adjusting my timing going from a fast rod to a slower rod especially with a over lined rod.


Thanks sjrobin!  

The Sage Graphite II is still a decent casting rod but not loads of backbone. Still, it's decent for general purpose fly fishing situations and will get nods from certain circles of fly fishermen. So a Rio Redfish rated for that rod will slightly over line it enough to help load it up quickly because of the heavier weight of the head being closer to the front of the line and therefore ellimate the need to overline that particular rod. But trying to arializing too much line, with that particular rod over lined by 1 wt with that particular fly line, will cause the rod to overload and therefore cause the cast to fall apart, especially if you are trying to punch it out during your final shoot! If you are going to keep that line for that rod, try shooting less line out of the tip top and slow the stroke down a bit, especially on the final shoot, so the rod wouldn't collapes under that load and pressure. Otherwise, try that same line rated for the rod wt (i.e. an 8wt rated Rio Redfish for your Sage 8wt Graphite II rod) and that should be all you need to do. Maybe the shop where you bought the line will trade you back for the correct rated line if you tell them it overloaded the rod. Then try it there at the shop to be sure that solved the problem. 

Ted


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## Martin239 (Jan 8, 2015)

I just tested out the royal wulff Bermuda Triangle taper clear intermediate line today for the first time & holy shit was I casting far! I'm a decent caster, on average I do about 50-60' when blind casting flats, but I've gotten up to 80' when I need too, & maxed out at about 90' one time with a rio redfish line on a BVK, but I was throwing that BTT intermediate 70' easy on almost every cast. It has a lot of line memory though because of the material it's made out of, so you'll have to stretch it plenty before you use it. But I'm now a big fan of that line for deeper water flats where you wanna fish near the bottom with the fly not coming up off the bottom unnaturally, or if your fly isn't super heavy & you need it to stay lower in the water column.


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## J-Will (Oct 29, 2014)

It's interesting to me the vastly differing grain weights of some of these lines. For instance, the 8 wt Rio Redfish line is 290 grains! That's a 10 weight line. I have found the majority of the redfish tapers to be heavier, but none quite as heavy as the Rio Redfish. Anyone had issues casting a line that heavy on an 8 weight?


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## MariettaMike (Jun 14, 2012)

J-Will said:


> It's interesting to me the vastly differing grain weights of some of these lines. For instance, the 8 wt Rio Redfish line is 290 grains! That's a 10 weight line. I have found the majority of the redfish tapers to be heavier, but none quite as heavy as the Rio Redfish. Anyone had issues casting a line that heavy on an 8 weight?


That 290gr is for the entire 36' head, and is not a 10 wt line. The 8wt bonefish is 320gr for the entire 50' head, and definitely is not an 11wt line. For some reason RIO gives the 30' wt at 225gr which is a tad over the 8wt standards. "The devil is in the details."

Redfish are typically harder to see until you get close and thus you need a line you can cast quickly around 30-40'. If you're using a 10' leader on a 9' rod you're really casting only the first 11-21' of line which can be a challenge to load the rod and flip a little fly accurately. Fortunately they usually give you a couple shots.

Bonefish on the other hand don't let you get that close (or not for long), and thus you need a line you can cast 40-50'. It takes a tight loop with higher line speed to accurately cast that far into a wind and thus the head is 14' longer to make that easier.

My guide friend that fished the late Del Brown for permit shared with me that Del was just an average caster. However Del marked his fly line at 55' and could make a big loop that landed softly at 55'. He also used an 11wt line on a 10wt rod.

http://www.danblanton.com/permit.html


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

MariettaMike said:


> That 290gr is for the entire 36' head, and is not a 10 wt line. The 8wt bonefish is 320gr for the entire 50' head, and definitely is not an 11wt line. For some reason RIO gives the 30' wt at 225gr which is a tad over the 8wt standards. "The devil is in the details."
> 
> Redfish are typically harder to see until you get close and thus you need a line you can cast quickly around 30-40'. If you're using a 10' leader on a 9' rod you're really casting only the first 11-21' of line which can be a challenge to load the rod and flip a little fly accurately. Fortunately they usually give you a couple shots.
> 
> ...



Nice reply Mike and great description on the differences in fly lines to J-Will's reply and comment.

Was Dustin Huff your guide friend? If so, is he Steve Huff's kid?


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## MariettaMike (Jun 14, 2012)

Backwater said:


> Nice reply Mike and great description on the differences in fly lines to J-Will's reply and comment.
> 
> Was Dustin Huff your guide friend? If so, is he Steve Huff's kid?


Dustin is Steve's son, and I've met him, but he's not the guide I'm referring to.

Bus Bergman is my guide friend, and I think this writers summary is accurate.

http://duranglers.com/tarpon-diaries-day-6-bus-bergmann/

Bus has a collared shirt with "I thought you said you could cast." embroidered on the back of the collar that he might wear the day after if you miss, whiff, or screw up a few shots.

Back on the fly line topic I carry two twelve weights during tarpon season. One has the long headed "tarpon technical" line on it for long casts where its easier to see fish coming from a longer distance, and the other with the regular "Tarpon" line for short-medium-long. My reasoning for this is I find it hard to judge distance when trying to "shoot" line on the cast, so I'll use false casts to measure within a leader length of the target, and then make my cast. A long headed line is much easier to "carry" and support my method for overcoming my vision weakness. And I find my hook-up percentage to be directly proportional to the distance from my skiff that I show tarpon my fly. Especially head-on shots because you get more working room.

I gave up on the tarpon quick shooter because it is so heavy it breaks down my rod when I try to make casts over 50' with it. Plus the tarpon that you see under 30' from your boat typically see you cast, and wink at you.


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

MariettaMike said:


> Dustin is Steve's son, and I've met him, but he's not the guide I'm referring to.
> 
> Bus Bergman is my guide friend, and I think this writers summary is accurate.
> 
> ...


THAT"S why I use a clear line. Lol I'm getting blinder (is that a word?) as I get older and if I accidently line the fish (even when it's still in the air), I have a low occurrence of spookin the fish. So I too carry 2 - 12wts, one with a clear floater and one with a clear intermediate. Btw, are you over lining the rod with the quick shooter (not that I'm a fan of that line)?


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## jsnipes (May 1, 2011)

Yea, I really prefer the Airflo and SA lines to the Rio lines in pretty much all applications. The Rios are all overweighted and really head-heavy in my experience casting them.


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## jsnipes (May 1, 2011)

That Dan Blanton link was a fun read -- what a legend!


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

jsnipes said:


> Yea, I really prefer the Airflo and SA lines to the Rio lines in pretty much all applications. The Rios are all overweighted and really head-heavy in my experience casting them.


That's why I don't mind them in close quarters up in the mangroves. They can load up short and quick. But for wide open flats, I love that Liquid Crystal.

Yes that was a good read about ole Del. Dan's site can be fast moving and fun. But be cautious, there can be snobs on that site.  They talk alot about striper fishing in Cali and over seas trips.


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## paint it black (Nov 3, 2007)

My favorite line throughout the years has been Royal Wulff's Bermuda Triangle Taper. The standard line for bonefish and redfish for the most part. I throw the Bermuda Shorts on my 9wt BVK and it's the best casting line for that rod. It throws a lot like the Rio Bonefish Quick Shooter, but it seems to last me much longer. I have had an issue with the Rio Quick Shooter lines coating falling apart after a month or two. Where the Bermuda line tends to last me around a year, assuming I don't damage it on a bridge pylon or something. I tried the Cortland clear line on the 9 and was impressed with it for a bit, but it kind of got milky and tacky. I was told I should have rubbed it with some wax of some sort when it was new to protect it. I did cast very very well before it got tacky.


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## jsnipes (May 1, 2011)

Backwater said:


> That's why I don't mind them in close quarters up in the mangroves. They can load up short and quick. But for wide open flats, I love that Liquid Crystal.
> 
> Yes that was a good read about ole Del. Dan's site can be fast moving and fun. But be cautious, there can be snobs on that site.  They talk alot about striper fishing in Cali and over seas trips.


Heh, I like fishing trips. Even try and do some of that fancy fishing myself. Holy hell that website is an eyesore though, didn't realize there was a forum at first.


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

paint it black said:


> My favorite line throughout the years has been Royal Wulff's Bermuda Triangle Taper. The standard line for bonefish and redfish for the most part. I throw the Bermuda Shorts on my 9wt BVK and it's the best casting line for that rod. It throws a lot like the Rio Bonefish Quick Shooter, but it seems to last me much longer. I have had an issue with the Rio Quick Shooter lines coating falling apart after a month or two. Where the Bermuda line tends to last me around a year, assuming I don't damage it on a bridge pylon or something. I tried the Cortland clear line on the 9 and was impressed with it for a bit, but it kind of got milky and tacky. I was told I should have rubbed it with some wax of some sort when it was new to protect it. I did cast very very well before it got tacky.


Was that the clear floater? They had a problem with the clear Crystal lines. But when they came out with the Liquid Crystal, that problem was solved. I also keep my fly lines dressed and it keeps them from drying out. That can be the difference in having a good fly line lasting for many years.


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## paint it black (Nov 3, 2007)

Backwater said:


> What that the clear floater? They had a problem with the clear Crystal lines. But when they came out with the Liquid Crystal, that problem was solved. I also keep my fly lines dressed and it keeps them from drying out. That can be the difference in having a good fly line lasting for many years.





Backwater said:


> What that the clear floater? They had a problem with the clear Crystal lines. But when they came out with the Liquid Crystal, that problem was solved. I also keep my fly lines dressed and it keeps them from drying out. That can be the difference in having a good fly line lasting for many years.


It is the clear liquid crystal line that I had the issues with.


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

paint it black said:


> It is the clear liquid crystal line that I had the issues with.


Humm... I hadn't had that issue with that line (the newer stuff). What did you clean the line or dress the line with? I'd send it up to Chris at Cortland and see what they can do for you..


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## crboggs (Mar 30, 2015)

I like the 6wt Airflo Ridge Clear I am casting on a Redington Predator.

I thought it would be hard to cast a clear line like that but once I found my range and got a feel for it I really liked it. 

I'm hoping it pays off in clear winter backwaters where I'm making shorter casts to spooky fish.


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## bananabob (Jun 3, 2015)

The first clear line I got was Cortlands...hated it, tangled like crazy in 90 degree weather. Decided to give Monic a try. What a difference, I have a couple different ones and recently got the redfish clear and very happy with it in all weather so far. Did just get some 7wt Airflo Tropical clear but have not spooled it yet.
For me wading the flats for reds and big spooky gator trout I've found the clear is an aid for me. A couple times I've cast to one trout and not see one a bit closer and had it hit the fly after the line went past them and didn't spook. Not only does the Monic redfish line cast nice close I was recently casting a 2/0 pole dancer fly 70+ feet pretty easy with it.


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

bananabob said:


> The first clear line I got was Cortlands...hated it, tangled like crazy in 90 degree weather. Decided to give Monic a try. What a difference, I have a couple different ones and recently got the redfish clear and very happy with it in all weather so far. Did just get some 7wt Airflo Tropical clear but have not spooled it yet.
> For me wading the flats for reds and big spooky gator trout I've found the clear is an aid for me. A couple times I've cast to one trout and not see one a bit closer and had it hit the fly after the line went past them and didn't spook. Not only does the Monic redfish line cast nice close I was recently casting a 2/0 pole dancer fly 70+ feet pretty easy with it.



Which Cortland was it? Was it the clear intermediate? Remember, those clear lines like the intermediates have mono cores, which will have more memory, which needs to be stretch before use and I always like to dress them with some type of fly line dressing.

I field tested for Monic many years ago and they were the 1st to come out with a clear floater. I had to have a clear floater for my 12wt also for tarpon for a particular fly I uses and didn't want to spook them with an opaque line. So that line gets sticky when it gets hot but I had to use it anyways. So I wasn't a big fan of it. I prefer Cortland's new Liquid Crystal Clear over that line, tho I haven't thrown this Monic clear redfish line you are talking about.


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## bananabob (Jun 3, 2015)

I think it was the first generation of Cortland clear lines. I've heard they have improved a lot. You probably experienced similar things with Monics early lines. Boy has technology come a long way and fast lately and for the better too. But I think fly fishing will always remain quit fickle in all it's variations, quirks etc.


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

bananabob said:


> I think it was the first generation of Cortland clear lines. I've heard they have improved a lot. You probably experienced similar things with Monics early lines. Boy has technology come a long way and fast lately and for the better too. But I think fly fishing will always remain quit fickle in all it's variations, quirks etc.


Yea I remember in `98 getting the new Cortland Clear floater for my 6wt and was excited to help be stealthy but keep my fly line floating. I really didn't like the way it casted on that rod (yes sticky) and after about 6mos, I broke it while stretching it. I found out it only had a 12lb breaking strength for that 6wt and I was use to stretching the clear intermediate tarpon lines (like one of those workout bands lol). So I decided to hated the clear floaters. But it was still a necessary evil for the clear intermediates for my bigger rods. lol Still, I didn't like the memory they had. But lately, the memory on their clear intermediates are better and this new clear floating stuff this year is a dream to cast. That's why I now prefer it over Monic. That's not to say I wouldn't look up this new Monic you are speaking of. I'm always looking on how I can improve things and therefore make my life easier. Now if I can only figure out how to grow money on trees! LOL


That being said, I remember a story. I was field testing some lines for Monic back in the mid 90's and the owner just got back from Belize and sent me the 8wt skyblue floater he had. So I tried it out in Boca Grande and was excited to see what it could do, since it had a 90lb microderma core (like spiderwire). I love the sky blue since you could line fish in the air without them getting them spooked. But the line behaved badly since the polymer line had memory but the core didn't let you stretch it out. Still, I muscled threw casting it because I wanted to keep an open mind about it cause I kept thinkin "90lb core, yea!". lol The strip strike hook sets were incredible for docklight snook (no stretch at all) and it felt like you were knocking their eyeballs out. lol

So it was getting close to morning and I motored around to the beach side before 1st light to see what the poons were doing since an acquaintance was guiding Flip Pallot for a shoot for almost a week and the fish were not showing up. I wasn't planning on throwing flies at them, just spotting em and left the 12wts back at the cabin. So I'm sitting there looking and up pops a pod of happy fish right in front of me. So I spun around to look for a rod to grab to see if they would eat and all there was, was that 8wt with that line. So I quickly rig up a leader and a new crab pattern I was working on, tied it on and threw it out to the lead fish and it seem to eat before the fly touched the water with an explosion. I striped striked the snot out of that Owner 3/0 and buried it into her jaw and the 140lb girl came unglued. A giant for an 8wt! Still, with only 16lb tippet and 40lb shock, I was able to hold her in place so she couldn't take off. I figure I would just break her off right then and there but it didn't break off. So I figured what the heck and would just go along with it for the ride to see how long it'll last. That was the fight of my lifetime. The fish shocked a 6ft loop in the fly line. Rod was only a Loomis GL3 8wt. The loop almost took the rod apart several times (couldn't get the knot out), my hand got wrapped around the anchor rope trying to pull the anchor in myself (wasn't rigged for a quick release since I wasn't fishing lol), while holding fighting the fish with the other hand. I'm doing this all by myself with a trolling motor. I only had 170yrds of 20lb backing and was getting spooled constantly and the trolling motor was not enough to keep up. Cranked up the outboard to case it, rod in one hand, steering with the other or my feet. The blame thing was jumping everywhere! Another boat came up to assist me (also friend's of Flip's guide) and the fish spun around that boat. So I jumped on the deck of that boat and continued fighting her, leaving my boat adrift. So 45 minutes, 4 miles of coastline and 20 crab traps later, with sweat pouring off me, I manage to bring her boatside. I didn't release her, SHE released me!  I had to jump in the water just to cool off! lol

The fish, the battle and the pod was radio in to Flip's crew and they caught several fish for their shoot later that morning on those pods of fish. We had lunch with them at noon at the Loose Caboose, laughing about the stories and having a good time. Flip turns and asked me "what happened to all those eyeballs?" and everyone laughed! lol  Good times for sure and I don't think it would have happened without that Monic superline! lol

Not sure what they ever did with that line series.

Nice thread guys!  Sorry I hijacked the thread with my sea stories!  

Ted Haas


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## bjtripp83 (Aug 10, 2015)

appreciate all this feedback. gonna take some time to read through, had some issues w/ my truck recently so been out of the fishing game for a couple weeks.


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## sjrobin (Jul 13, 2015)

Backwater said:


> Yea I remember in `98 getting the new Cortland Clear floater for my 6wt and was excited to help be stealthy but keep my fly line floating. I really didn't like the way it casted on that rod (yes sticky) and after about 6mos, I broke it while stretching it. I found out it only had a 12lb breaking strength for that 6wt and I was use to stretching the clear intermediate tarpon lines (like one of those workout bands lol). So I decided to hated the clear floaters. But it was still a necessary evil for the clear intermediates for my bigger rods. lol Still, I didn't like the memory they had. But lately, the memory on their clear intermediates are better and this new clear floating stuff this year is a dream to cast. That's why I now prefer it over Monic. That's not to say I wouldn't look up this new Monic you are speaking of. I'm always looking on how I can improve things and therefore make my life easier. Now if I can only figure out how to grow money on trees! LOL
> 
> 
> That being said, I remember a story. I was field testing some lines for Monic back in the mid 90's and the owner just got back from Belize and sent me the 8wt skyblue floater he had. So I tried it out in Boca Grande and was excited to see what it could do, since it had a 90lb microderma core (like spiderwire). I love the sky blue since you could line fish in the air without them getting them spooked. But the line behaved badly since the polymer line had memory but the core didn't let you stretch it out. Still, I muscled threw casting it because I wanted to keep an open mind about it cause I kept thinkin "90lb core, yea!". lol The strip strike hook sets were incredible for docklight snook (no stretch at all) and it felt like you were knocking their eyeballs out. lol
> ...


Good story Ted. Oh the perils of fishing/scouting solo. I notice a lot of sight casting fly fishers love the sport so much they fish solo quite a bit.


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## BayStYat (Sep 12, 2012)

need a 5wt line for saltwater..... any one looking to sell. I have and extra fast 5wt to pair it with. 

thanks


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## BayStYat (Sep 12, 2012)

paint it black said:


> My favorite line throughout the years has been Royal Wulff's Bermuda Triangle Taper. The standard line for bonefish and redfish for the most part. I throw the Bermuda Shorts on my 9wt BVK and it's the best casting line for that rod. It throws a lot like the Rio Bonefish Quick Shooter, but it seems to last me much longer. I have had an issue with the Rio Quick Shooter lines coating falling apart after a month or two. Where the Bermuda line tends to last me around a year, assuming I don't damage it on a bridge pylon or something. I tried the Cortland clear line on the 9 and was impressed with it for a bit, but it kind of got milky and tacky. I was told I should have rubbed it with some wax of some sort when it was new to protect it. I did cast very very well before it got tacky.


Hey man, I have a 5wt extra fast 8'6'' rod that I need to pair a line with. What do you recommend?


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## GG34 (May 2, 2014)

Anybody know what the temp recommendations are for a tropical fly line vs a Coldwater line?


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

Gary34 said:


> Anybody know what the temp recommendations are for a tropical fly line vs a Coldwater line?


I always felt 70 degrees is the mark to be ideal on either side, be it water or air temp. But it could be mfg recommended as low as 60 degrees. idk.


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## jonrconner (May 20, 2015)

Gary34 said:


> Anybody know what the temp recommendations are for a tropical fly line vs a Coldwater line?


I use the Wulff Bermuda Triangles here in New England down to air temps in the forties with no I'll effect. The core is braided mono and doesn't turn into a slinky like some of the other tropical lines with solid mono core.
JC


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## jsnipes (May 1, 2011)

BayStYat said:


> Hey man, I have a 5wt extra fast 8'6'' rod that I need to pair a line with. What do you recommend?


I've been using an SA Bonefish 5 WT on my mine and enjoying it. Nicely balanced line (i.e. not super head heavy). One of the few tropic/saltwater 5wt options as well.


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## BayStYat (Sep 12, 2012)

jsnipes said:


> I've been using an SA Bonefish 5 WT on my mine and enjoying it. Nicely balanced line (i.e. not super head heavy). One of the few tropic/saltwater 5wt options as well.


awesome thanks


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## paint it black (Nov 3, 2007)

BayStYat said:


> Hey man, I have a 5wt extra fast 8'6'' rod that I need to pair a line with. What do you recommend?


I've been using Royal Wulff lines for about 5 years, however I just recently started working with them as they are now our fly line sponsor for the 5wt Chronicles. I've been throwing the 6wt Royal Wulff Bermuda line, but they are about to release the new saltwater 5wt Bermuda line, it should be hitting the store shelves come January. 

I want to be clear, my film project is sponsored by Royal Wulff, but I have tossed plenty of lines throughout the years, and whenever something new came out that had some hype I always gave it a shot. But I always stuck with the Royal Wulff lines after casting the others. I only recommend things that I have extensive experience with, and only work with companies that I truly believe in. 

The 6wt Bermuda should throw nice on that short extra fast rod. I am throwing a 8'6 extra fast Marshfly prototype 5wt myself, and this line is a perfect fit.


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## BayStYat (Sep 12, 2012)

paint it black said:


> I've been using Royal Wulff lines for about 5 years, however I just recently started working with them as they are now our fly line sponsor for the 5wt Chronicles. I've been throwing the 6wt Royal Wulff Bermuda line, but they are about to release the new saltwater 5wt Bermuda line, it should be hitting the store shelves come January.
> 
> I want to be clear, my film project is sponsored by Royal Wulff, but I have tossed plenty of lines throughout the years, and whenever something new came out that had some hype I always gave it a shot. But I always stuck with the Royal Wulff lines after casting the others. I only recommend things that I have extensive experience with, and only work with companies that I truly believe in.
> 
> The 6wt Bermuda should throw nice on that short extra fast rod. I am throwing a 8'6 extra fast Marshfly prototype 5wt myself, and this line is a perfect fit.


Thank you sir for that information.


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## SC on the FLY (Sep 16, 2015)

paint it black said:


> I've been using Royal Wulff lines for about 5 years, however I just recently started working with them as they are now our fly line sponsor for the 5wt Chronicles. I've been throwing the 6wt Royal Wulff Bermuda line, but they are about to release the new saltwater 5wt Bermuda line, it should be hitting the store shelves come January., been using Royal Wulff in the 4,5,6 wt size for the last 15 yrs , I haven't found any better, casted alot of different lines, just ordered some 8 wt
> 
> 
> paint it black said:
> ...


The 4,5,6 wt Wulff TT lines are bad ass on any fast rod , have tried alot of others, looking forward to some new 8,9,10,12 wt stuff from Wulff


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## SC on the FLY (Sep 16, 2015)

jonrconner said:


> I use the Wulff Bermuda Triangles here in New England down to air temps in the forties with no I'll effect. The core is braided mono and doesn't turn into a slinky like some of the other tropical lines with solid mono core.
> JC


They have a saltwater Triangle taper with a Dacron core as well


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## WillW (Dec 6, 2012)

So how is a 9 weight loomis glx going to chunk big poppers with the SA coldwater redfish line? Work or nah?


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## Backwater (Dec 14, 2014)

WillW said:


> So how is a 9 weight loomis glx going to chunk big poppers with the SA coldwater redfish line? Work or nah?


Will work! I actually love that rod! Just open the loops a bit. A 9wt line is design to throw big poppers IMO.


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