# Old Skiff, Need Help



## gillz (May 20, 2007)

No clue on who the manufacturer is. It will do the job, but biggest issue is the no HIN/Title. Many people title re-built boats like this as homemade, but that is not the correct or legal way to do it. Check with your dept of motor vehicles before you get too involved in the project.

Check out the post on this issue.
http://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2/YaBB.pl?num=1262902247


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## Unclebob (Dec 10, 2008)

I'm not sure what it is, but if you're a novice like me, I'd be more inclined to just restore it back to original. Repair the transom, add the three seats, finish it inside and out, and enjoy it for what it is, a simple single walled skiff. You will learn a lot in the process, the most important being how labor intensive a project like this can be. Then use the skills you learned to take on a bigger project later if you wish. 

this isn't the boat I'd be adding stringers, a false floor, and a gunnel cap to.

Good luck


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## kodyb87 (Mar 14, 2014)

Thanks for the advice! I might just get it seaworthy and sell it to buy a better hull. That will give me some experience and keep this one simple.


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

That is a neat hull.

The guys in FL who have old boats without HINs/titles seem to have a hell of a time getting registered. One guy mentioned getting a trusted buddy in the next state to register the boat in whatever way is legal in order to get a title and a HIN then transferring the title to you in Florida.

Keep this hull simple with three thwarts IMO. I'd make the front thwart wide enough to stand on and hold the gas tank and battery. I'd make the middle thwart to hold a 48 qt cooler. I'd make some type of trough-like rod holders along both side with chase tubes underneath. If it didn't have stringers, I don't think I'd bother adding them or a raised sole or decks any higher than your thwart tops.

Nate


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## kodyb87 (Mar 14, 2014)

I replaced the transom in another boat I had but when I did it, I cut out the inside layer of glass, took out the old wood, and then epoxied the new wood to the outside layer. What are my options with this hull since the previous owner cut out the outside layer and the inside is no good? Do I just brace the boat and then cut out everything in the way to start over? Is it better to leave the glass lip he left around the outside edge to tie back into or do I cut it all out? I just want to get my mind wrapped around it before I get out the grinder and foul up a potentially good hull.


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

I wouldn't cut that lip off if the glass is good. It will significantly help maintain the shape of the transom once you brace across the top of the transom. Also brace the hull across the gunnels in multiple multiple places to keep the gunnels true to the original lines and keep the keel level and straight in some type of simple cradle (e.g. two straight 2x8's set wide enough to keep the hull stable supported by sawhorses and shimmed level). Create a cardboard template of the inside of the transom to transfer the shape to your ply. I'd cover the transom inside and out with 6 oz cloth once you had it cut to fit. I would then bed it on to the lip with thickened epoxy and fillet it to the hull. Cover the exterior with cloth and mat to bring it level with the surface of the remaining lip then tape it inside and out to tie it into the hull. Then you just have to fair it in to the degree you feel necessary.

If the glass of the lip is ragged, cut it off only after you have cut your transom to fit.

Nate


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## kodyb87 (Mar 14, 2014)

Thanks! That's exactly what I was thinking I needed to do. The lip on the outside is at least two inches wide and only has one crack in it. I'm thinking I can bevel it to make the glass match up a little better and that should give me a better bond, right? Fiberglass is a foreign language to me. I've done some very basic stuff but nothing that needed to be pretty when it was done.


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## WhiteDog70810 (May 6, 2008)

Before you start, read every tutorial you can on bateau.com. Don't freak out about beveling the edges. Have you ever done any sheet rock work? The premise is the same. The thickened epoxy needs edges to bind to and gaps to fill. Grind out that crack once the hull is stabilized so you have a 1/8" gap for the epoxy to fill. Tape the new transom to the old skin then build the transom surface up to level with the original skin surface with mat. After you read the tutorials and enough build threads, you will know exactly what I am talking about.

Nate


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## mcallisterjh (Aug 5, 2014)

One thing I'd consider when replacing the transom and adding any kind of decking: instead of marine grade, or ANY plywood, use a fiberglass based material, (brand names like Coosa, Starboard,etc.). I just finished a project boat much like yours. You'll find Coosa cuts and binds easier than wood, and it will never rot. 3M makes an adhesive called 5200 that's made for glueing the material. I glued and screwed to bind it and it'll be there forever. Good luck, James


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## trplsevenz (Oct 29, 2012)

> One thing I'd consider when replacing the transom and adding any kind of decking: instead of marine grade, or ANY plywood, use a fiberglass based material, (brand names like Coosa, Starboard,etc.). I just finished a project boat much like yours. You'll find Coosa cuts and binds easier than wood, and it will never rot. 3M makes an adhesive called 5200 that's made for glueing the material. I glued and screwed to bind it and it'll be there forever. Good luck,  James


You should check your references before giving flawed advice.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

> One thing I'd consider when replacing the transom and adding any kind of decking: instead of marine grade, or ANY plywood, use a fiberglass based material, (brand names like Coosa, Starboard,etc.). I just finished a project boat much like yours. You'll find Coosa cuts and binds easier than wood, and it will never rot. 3M makes an adhesive called 5200 that's made for glueing the material. I glued and screwed to bind it and it'll be there forever. Good luck,  James


Sorry but nearly every bit of info in this is wrong. Neither coosa or starboard are FB based, in fact you can't even glass starboard, it needs to be mechanically fastened. Coosa has FB reinforcement in it, but does not really bind to glass any better than wood. If you used just 5200 and screws to do a transom or deck then you will soon find yourself in big trouble!


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## kodyb87 (Mar 14, 2014)

If it was a Hell's Bay or some other really nice skiff that I would get a decent ROI out of, I would consider composite but being what it is...I'll just be doing exterior plywood. Maybe after my I sharpen my skills a little, I'll tackle a no-wood project


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## CurtisWright (May 9, 2012)

I'd forgo stringers.  I'd grind the floor down to the glass and then lay a layer of 1.5 oz chopped matte a layer a 1708 and then 1" divynal cell.  Then put two layers of 1708 biaxial over the top.  I'd also do the same thing for the transom,  but I'd build it up with 1 1/2" of divynal.  

You will have to make a putty out of micro balloons and resin to bed the divynal. If done properly it will be tough as nails, but if not it will delaminate. 

Before you do any glassworks to the hull, build an external frame to keep it square and cross brace the gunnels and transom. Resin shrinks about 1% when it cured and will warp the hull. Even with the bracing, be prepared to flip your boat over and fair out a hook or two in your hull.


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