# Any tips on Tessilmare rub rail install?



## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

Might be able to finally install the rubrail soon. Does anyone have any tips for making really tight bends? The videos the company has on YouTube don't really show anything well.


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

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I used a heat gun to do 90 degree bends on my last boat I “built”. No issues but it was Taco Marine.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

The tessilmare has a caution against using a heat gun. They have a video with no real explanation on what they call a tight radius, but it's gotta be a 3" radius. I'm sure that is considered tight on a 40ft boat, but not a skiff.


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## permitchaser (Aug 26, 2013)

I put the old "97 original rub rail back on my boat. It was winter so I used a hair dryer a hammer and a screw driver. I'm sure yours will go on easier


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

Thanks, but I'm looking for more of Tessilmare specific tips as it doesn't follow the typical rubrail type of install.


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

Im sure you saw this video from Tessilmare. I’d say that their videos don’t persuade me to purchase their product. While I don’t have experience with rub rails yet, I watched a guy at a local boatyard use clamps and a heat gun. However, I believe he said it he was using Taco Marine.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

Yes that is the video I described above. I bought this over the taco kit this time because many guys on the various forums I'm on said they liked it much better. The taco kit is a pain in the ass, but the tessilmare is supposed to be easier. We will see soon enough.


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

You can use a heat gun on both the base and the “rubber” just be gentile with the heat! Lay the rub rail in the sun unrolled if possible while installing the base. After installing the “rubber” allow to rest for a couple days before cutting/trimming. To get the tight corners “ it don’t like them” a little heat and creative clamping is needed. I like the product but it does prefer a larger radius than a typical insert style rub rail.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

I was going to say JC and the speed builder in Jax both like the product (Forget his name - the one building Backcountry's boat after the crash)


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

DuckNut said:


> I was going to say JC and the speed builder in Jax both like the product (Forget his name - the one building Backcountry's boat after the crash)


I do like it. It’s cheap, durable, and easy to install. The only thing about it I do not like are the end caps and the stainless upgrade is stupid expensive!


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## K3anderson (Jan 23, 2013)

I think you need to cut the inner piece, stop it before the bend, and cut small piece(s) individually screwed to make the bends. There is a video on youtube of a guy doing it. He makes like 2-3" inner piece on the corner of a bend and screws it in right on the corner of the bend. I cut it before the bend and then started it after the bend (despite seeing a video of someone doing what I said above) and it causes the edges to stand up and not lay completely flat.


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## K3anderson (Jan 23, 2013)

K3anderson said:


> I think you need to cut the inner piece, stop it before the bend, and cut small piece(s) individually screwed to make the bends. There is a video on youtube of a guy doing it. He makes like 2-3" inner piece on the corner of a bend and screws it in right on the corner of the bend. I cut it before the bend and then started it after the bend (despite seeing a video of someone doing what I said above) and it causes the edges to stand up and not lay completely flat.


Watch this. Again, I didn't do it this way , but, should have.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

Thanks, I'll check it out in a few minutes.
Looking at the kit today, I cut a chunk off to see how it will fit the boat. It I install it with the lip down it might not do enough. The flair on this boat is pretty extreme. Do you guys think it's a bit deal if I mount it half way, so it would be on a flat surface instead of overhanging an edge?


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

So here is my boggle. Mounted on a lower lip is just won't work as the flair of the hull makes it useless.










If I float it in the middle of the rail it will work out OK.



















So the plastic base seems strong enough to support this but it's not ideal.

And what is up with these caps JC? They don't look like they are even the right size.


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## K3anderson (Jan 23, 2013)

So how did you end up doing the bends?


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

Haven't yet. I can't get them to pick up the phone to answer my questions on if it can be installed on a flat surface. If yes then I should be installing in a few weeks.


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## State fish rob (Jan 25, 2017)

Seems to me if you try installing on the flat you’re going to end up with compound angles . I’d be worried that the margins would be hard to keep the same visually . Never used that brand . if a heat gun Is too hot go with hair dryer. You can score the back side to make tighter bends. I’d try to find one that fits like it should. Aluminum or s s , cool old school look. stuff snowballs quik on a boat. Good luck


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## State fish rob (Jan 25, 2017)

Ck out fisheriessupply.com. Lots of different rub rail profiles. been following your build and I think I hate you drillIng holes in that pretty work more than you do. Great job !!


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

I think I'll end up with compound angles no matter what brand I choose. Thing is, if you remember part of my build, nothing is straight or smooth. The top and bottom of the rubrail have some waves from the plywood issues. I fixed it as best I could, so it's much better, but still noticeable to me.
The flair is pretty extreme on this boat. So much so that even sticking out an inch this rail disappeared if mounted to low. Aluminum or SS isn't gonna do it. Plus I abuse my boats.
The way this rubrail is designed I think scoring the front would be better.

Unfortunately I may have to go in for a repair on my shoulder, so the whole build might be put on hold till next year.


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## State fish rob (Jan 25, 2017)

Roger that. Take care of yourself. stay safe


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

Thanks bud. I hope I can limp through this part before I go down for 3 months.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

firecat1981 said:


> Haven't yet. I can't get them to pick up the phone to answer my questions on if it can be installed on a flat surface. If yes then I should be installing in a few weeks.


What flat surface are you referring too?

You have a small lip running around the perimeter - looks to be about 1 1/2-2" tall.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

The lip won't work. The flair is wide enough that if I use the lip the rub rail disappears mostly and the top edge might hit first. That's what those pics are showing. So I need to float it in the middle of what you call a lip, but is actually an integral rubrail. It's a bit over 2" if I remember and the Tessilmare is about 1.5".


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

firecat1981 said:


> The lip won't work. The flair is wide enough that if I use the lip the rub rail disappears mostly and the top edge might hit first. That's what those pics are showing. So I need to float it in the middle of what you call a lip, but is actually an integral rubrail. It's a bit over 2" if I remember and the Tessilmare is about 1.5".


which rail are you looking at?

The Binox and Bino look like they might work.


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

The tessilmare?


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

I already have the r30 radial kit


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

firecat1981 said:


> The tessilmare?


Yes


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

firecat1981 said:


> I already have the r30 radial kit


So you're saying that the little hook on the bottom won't catch the bottom of your integral rail?


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

NO! Thats not what I'm saying. Go look at the pics I posted. It hooks the bottom of the lip fine, but when it does it disappears from the top edge because of the angle of the flair, exposing the top of the gunnel to impacts.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

You mean like - the little area to the top of the rail?


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

Yes, but in the example you show the cap is trimmed so the bottom lip is still used. On mine the area that looks like a cap extends to far down and angles with the flair so I cannot use the bottom lip. I'm just going to go for it and see what happens when the time comes.


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)




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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

?


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

The area above the rub rail to the deck?


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## firecat1981 (Nov 27, 2007)

On mine there will be a small area above and below the rub rail. I screwed down a few inches, I think it will work out ok.


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