# The Dirty Oar



## Brett (Jul 16, 2008)

I'm not sure but I think you missed a spot with the dirt,
I think I see some clean gel-coat in one of the bow photos...



Oh, no, glare from the sunlight, you're ok,
no mojo's been washed off...


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## TomFL (Oct 2, 2007)

You're sadly mistaken my friend, there is no clean spot on the boat. Must have been an optical illusion, or a shiny spot on the lens. 

Probably didn't help that I had just come back from fishing in some pretty dark water, and went out and back 4-5 miles down a dirt road to get there. 

I just haven't had time to take care of the little stuff lately, and when I do catch a break I want to get out on the water.

-T


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## pescador72 (Aug 6, 2008)

Skiff looks fresh to me.


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## copperhead (May 30, 2008)

I'm not a big fan of those electrical connections close by to the vented fuel tank, especially the 110V....


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## Flyline (Mar 3, 2008)

TomFL,

I had a LT25customMV with lengthwise compartment from the boat dealership then  I rigged with 24volt bowmount 80lbs thrust trolling motor on it with 2 batteries under the rear deck and I really hate it the way it been set-up with Hydraulic jackplate with 25hp yamaha 2-stroke.  It's too much crap tucking under the decks and too heavy then I sold it everything 3 months later.

what I did is I start all over after my NMZ is gone then the wife wants to buy a LT15 standard lowdeck model ;D.  I have a bow mount 12 volts minnkota riptide digital 55lbs thrust with one group 24 battery and it's wayyyy much better and plenty of power to troll around. I'm going to have everything clean hidden wiring myself by put a group 24 battery in the smallest compartment then run the wires underneath the false floor to the bow.  my goal is keep everything light instead put too much crap on a gheenoe. I'm going to have one battery to run a trolling motor, tomC electric jackplate, livewell pump and Bilge pump.  more simple the better there's, I will post more pictures with mods coming in the future. Custom sea-dek should be on the way and I want Carbonmarine make me a poling platform and casting deck but I guess I will be a long waiting list :-/ :-/

Just my 2 cents!


BTW,

NICE DIRTY OAR! ;D


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## TomFL (Oct 2, 2007)

> I'm not a big fan of those electrical connections close by to the vented fuel tank, especially the 110V....


Was concerned about that as well, word from Big Gheenoe is there is enough ventilation in there. 

Concern over it is one of my main reasons for wanting to get the fuel up in the bow though.

-T


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## copperhead (May 30, 2008)

Just regular venting I guess not a problem, but suppose the tank is a bit full and some gas comes out the vent and is pooled on the gas mat below?? Just suppose what shouldn't be able to happen does? I can only say I have a bit of experience on this subject and to put it politely, I used to be a lot better looking than now  Most people think a dirty 4 letter word that begins with f means fu.., for me its fi


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## copperhead (May 30, 2008)

And it wasn't one of our boats! Just a famous brand name from a few years ago...maybe that's why I'm a bit of a safety nut..


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## TomFL (Oct 2, 2007)

> Just regular venting I guess not a problem, but suppose the tank is a bit full and some gas comes out the vent and is pooled on the gas mat below?? Just suppose what shouldn't be able to happen does?  I can only say I have a bit of experience on this subject and to put it politely,  I used to be a lot better looking than now   Most people think a dirty 4 letter word that begins with f means fu.., for me its fi


It's been a concern and I'm happy to report I just ordered a fuel tank that will fit under the front deck. Will be moving that up there shortly.

Should work out nicely I think.

FWIW, I've always filled the tank when leaving for a trip each morning, and never leave it with a full tank. 

-T


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## gheen_with_envy (Oct 12, 2008)

Nice rigg you got there. Don't the mercs have the off button on the end of the tiller handle? I just ask because you got a carbon marine tiller extension. Best of fishing to ya. 


cya Justin


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## TomFL (Oct 2, 2007)

Justin, you have two options thanks to Joe at Carbon Marine. 

You can relocate the button to the end of the Tillar Pillar, which would be ideal. Only trouble is, if the factory is being a stickler they can technically void your warranty coverage for something electrical related. Given the amount of electronics and the cost of replacing them on a 4-stroke EFI outboard, I elected to go with plan "B".

Have Joe bore an access hole in the Tillar Pillar where you can easily push the factory "off" button, it works great.

-T


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## TomFL (Oct 2, 2007)

New Seadek on the cockpit floor and under yer butt Thanks to Tyler at Castaway Customs. Had to post for two reasons; first so Brett could see that I actually DO wash my boat, and second because I think Tyler did a bang-up job on the logo. 



















The butt pad is super-thick 13mm I think and niiiiice on yer booty as you're riding


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## TomFL (Oct 2, 2007)

Been working on some changes to the hull, specifically to seperate the fuel and battery/charger which never sat well with me. 

IMHO the biggest oversight when this boat was designed is that you can't fit ANY brand/style of Poly fuel tank under the bow storage area. This means you have to put the fuel in the rear. Making the storage area 1" higher would have solved this issue. 

The second biggest oversight when this boat was designed is that the bow rigging tube for the trolling motor wiring doesn't open into the bow storage area. Which means most people would run the wires to the rear storage compartment. 

This leaves people with one option; to run the battery and charger, along with the fuel, in the rear compartment. Which was the way I had this boat rigged. 

The way I worked around the issue was to try to locate the rigging tube under the floor of the front storage compartment, and gain access to it with a roto-zip. Took a lot of trial and error as if you go too deep you'll have a huge problem. I then built a starboard battery tray with an extended front section, enabling me to attach the tray to the front bulkhead as well as the floor so it doesn't move. 

Here you can see the typical gheenoe "flat" floor in the compartment, a good bit of 5200 in the center and some thin seadeck on the edges kinda levels it out. A few screws through the center as well.










The same with the battery in place and wiring neatified:









Charger, 110v charger outlet, TM breaker and fuse for wiring running to the rear for lights/bilge: 









I will say the boat rides very level with the group 24 battery up front. I like it! And since the front space is actually 47" deep there's still plenty of storage room up there. 

Also as anyone could guess the 24v 80# TM was serious overkill on this hull, but all I had at the time. The 12v is the way to go. 

Now with the fuel in the rear and battery up front I don't have to worry about getting a visit from Fire Marshall Bill... "LEMME SHOW YOU SOMETHING!!!!"

After running around with the fuel and batteries/charger in the rear and now running the boat like this, I think anyone with an MV should look closely at rigging it this way. Much safer and better weight distribution. 

-T


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