# 18’ scooter build



## Shallow angler (Apr 12, 2020)

Hello all figured I would post this build up as it will be followed by a 12’ model. 
The build is mainly for protected waters, I wade fish a lot as well as flounder gigging and like the simplicity of the design. I use a lot of core strengths from previous builds as well as lamination schedules. Some trial and error and some just well over built as i am guilty for sure. I look forward to comments good and bad I’m here to learn as well as hopefully encourage others to build. 

Currently building an 18’ Texas scooter from scratch. 

Length: 18’
Bottom: 84”
Beam 96”
Sides: 13”
Keyslot transom 
Pocket tunnel 
Projected draft: 3-4”

Materials: 
Marine Epoxy 
1/4, 3/8 and 3/4 marine ply 
1708 biax 
12 oz and 1708 tabbing 6” 
Wood flour 
Lots of patients


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## BassFlats (Nov 26, 2018)

Let's see some pics of your build. Is it a bateau plan?


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## Shallow angler (Apr 12, 2020)

I originally laid the hull out to be 16’ but my son encouraged me to add two more feet. Here is the initial layout with cheap ply making patterns.


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## Shallow angler (Apr 12, 2020)

BassFlats said:


> Let's see some pics of your build. Is it a bateau plan?


Thanks, no sir it’s a napkin build lol. They offer one but it’s much more complex than needs to be for my situation. 
I will incorporate some of the lamination schedules and core strengths from previous bateau builds.


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## Shallow angler (Apr 12, 2020)

Once I laid out the model and figured angles and lines I started on the actual build. 

Disassembled and laid out patterns on Marine ply. 

Bottom section is of 3/8 meranti 
4 and 1/2 sheets with puzzle joints 








Joints assembled with thickened Epoxy and one layer of 1708.Center seam butted, glued and taped.


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## BassFlats (Nov 26, 2018)

Very cool. Keep the updates coming.


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## Shallow angler (Apr 12, 2020)

Set up bottom on table and started assembly and laying out sides.

I am using a stitch and glue method and I’m actually building it upright. This allowed for design as I go as per sides, stringers and framing.















I wanted a more rounded custom look over the typical squared bow section. Took a little figuring and practice but I like how it turned out. Seams glued up


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## Shallow angler (Apr 12, 2020)

Transom section in and taped, used two laminated layers of meranti 3/4.








Once sides and transom setup I cut out for Keyslot transom. I kicked this option around a bit due to the loss of draft however the benefit well outweighs the loss on this build. Being so wide I don’t see it being to much of a loss. It should create some drag and suction to keep this girl on the water . 








Clamping board is made up of two layers of 3/4 meranti laminated. The knee braces are two layers of 3/8 meranti laminated. I have found when you laminate it makes for a super strong section especially in areas of sufficient stresses. The lower section shows the cutout for the planned tunnel. The transom section will be completed with a full transverse section of 1/2” to mirror clamping board and will run from P to S to complete the box frame. Hope this makes since. 








Gaps left to be filled with thickened Epoxy, gaps always good when filled with thickened Epoxy to me it’s a stronger joint and make it easy to round the corners for taping and glassing. 







Keyslot all glued up and corners rounded ready for tabbing. All transom area is taped with 1/2 fillet, 3 offset layers of 6” 1708 biax. Next cover transom section tabbed into hull bottom overlapping 10”.


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## Shallow angler (Apr 12, 2020)

Tunnel cut out and installed. Glued in and ready to prep for fillets and taping. Will be taped in with 3 offset layers of 1708 then covered with 2 layers of 1708. This is a high stress area and should be compensated for. The 2 full height center section stringers will fall each side of tunnel making it one unit. Then I will add two additional full height stringers one each side. So a total of 4 stringers planned with transverse frame every 30” creating egg create framing.
























Once framing is complete I will flip and cleanup and complete bottom section, lamination schedule for bottom:
Seams, 3 layers of 1708 6” offset
Bottom:
Two layers of 1708 cloth overlapping center section 10” and over the sides and transom. Then fair it out and add four coats of graphite Epoxy.


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## Shallow angler (Apr 12, 2020)

Next step is to cut rub-rail strips and glue up. Then get the inside of hull glassed. 

Happy Easter everyone, never forget the sacrifice our Savior made for us all. Have a great day!!! Hug your loved ones and be thankful for all we have.


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## JC Designs (Apr 5, 2020)

Cool project!


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## Shallow angler (Apr 12, 2020)

I swung by and picked up the glass and some more Epoxy to get the inside glassed. 

Going with two layers of 12 oz biax for the inside then start with the stringers


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## Shallow angler (Apr 12, 2020)

Not much to post tonight, nothing but a lot of taping lol it never seems to end.

Got the inside of the transom and tunnel tapped three layers every seam with 3 layers 1708. Figured the 2 layers of 12oz on the inside will take about 5.5 gallons of Epoxy on we go


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

Sweet man, you might have mentioned it but will you be venting the tunnel? Just curious as I've started to think I might do a small 14' build just for fun.


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## Shallow angler (Apr 12, 2020)

I don’t think it will be necessary on this hull, the tunnel length is 46” which is less than 1/3 of the hull length I also added 1.5” to the height. This tunnel is pretty proven with a few other builds. Once flipped you will see that I have put a 4” radius on corners as well. Not to concerned with drag. This will be a learning curve and will modify it from here. I don’t like vents as they cause the water to become aerated and the fact of another hole in the hull 

I have already started laying out a 10’ and 12’ versions I’m building for my son, will post on it as we get started.


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

So the benefit of the vent is to reduce the drag? Sorry not trying to be a wise guy just trying to understand, the way I have read about it, is it reduces the suction to the bottom of the hull allowing it to release a lot like taking the finger off the end of a straw when you pull soda outa your glass with your finger on it? 

Another question because you've obviously built a boat or two before and sorry again for all the questions just trying to learn. The benefit of the rounded corners is they provide less drag or most likely turbulence as well?

Thanks again for any help


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## Shallow angler (Apr 12, 2020)

No worries lol I’m learning everyday. Yes the venting release the suction thus lessening the drag. One thing I understand about venting is if you run shallow all the time it’s not worth it, I run skinny thus I catch fish as per fishing in backwaters other can’t so I like a tunnel for what it was designed. I have also seen were venting can cause dirty water causing the prop to slip. These boats are sleds if you will I’m not looking to go 50 but more so looking for performance. Most tunnels I’ve seen vented only gain a couple MPH not worth it to me for the work and extra holes. Just my 2 pennies


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## Shallow angler (Apr 12, 2020)

The benefits for the rounded corners is twofold, clean up and speed up the water thus creating a clean wake to the prop. Less friction


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

So let me ask you something more, since we are talking about tunnel's, is there benefit to having a more gradual tunnel, or should a tunnel be more abrupt like yours is? The reason I ask is I've seen production models that tend to have a more gradual tunnel starting from nothing and in 40 or so inches reaching 3 inch or whatever type of depth they want in the tunnel.


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

Here's a clip of a vented tunnel just to show what East Cape suggests is the benefits. You can really hear the difference but like you said it has a lot to do with how you designed the tunnel as well.


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## Shallow angler (Apr 12, 2020)

GoGataGo52__20 said:


> So let me ask you something more, since we are talking about tunnel's, is there benefit to having a more gradual tunnel, or should a tunnel be more abrupt like yours is? The reason I ask is I've seen production models that tend to have a more gradual tunnel starting from nothing and in 40 or so inches reaching 3 inch or whatever type of depth they want in the tunnel.


The shape has a lot to do with the hull design, I’ve used this style tunnel and it was developed by BBC and is proven, provides clean water with minimal drag. I’m not by no means a designer and there is a whole world of research on this subject but no real answer. I go with experience and hands on proof. The shape has a lot to do with what type wake you need exiting.


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## Shallow angler (Apr 12, 2020)

Shallow angler said:


> The shape has a lot to do with the hull design, I’ve used this style tunnel and it was developed by BBC and is proven, provides clean water with minimal drag. I’m not by no means a designer and there is a whole world of research on this subject but no real answer. I go with experience and hands on proof. The shape has a lot to do with what type wake you need exiting.


I prefer a clean somewhat flat wake as would exit the transom without a tunnel. Because realistically all you doing is allowing the motor to be raised and providing the same amount of water as would if there was no tunnel. Keep it clean as you can.


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## Shallow angler (Apr 12, 2020)

GoGataGo52__20 said:


> Here's a clip of a vented tunnel just to show what East Cape suggests is the benefits. You can really hear the difference but like you said it has a lot to do with how you designed the tunnel as well.


Yep it released the drag however if you know what your looking at the motor is at basically its lowest point at which point you would never run a tunnel hull if you know what your doing. You can make a standard hull do that with a jack plate or by having your motor mounted wrong. It all comes with sacrificing something but in general in my 27 years I’ve seen a lot of tries at a perfectly designed tunnel and have yet to see it. All hulls have their sweet spot you just have know what your looking for and find it.


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

True cool, I'm just showing you something I saw. I have a jackplate on my non-tunnel hull currently and I get it, it was at it's lowest position just food for thought. So a deeper tunnel that has a more direct path theoretically would have less turbulence by the time it gets to the end of the hull?


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

Also there was a plywood boat that was built back in the day called The Grass Slipper, he did a really intreasting way of venting a tunnel without a hole in the tunnel. He took PVC pipe cut it down I'm gonna show a pic, it also provided the rounded edges like you were talking about to clean up the water flow.


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## Shallow angler (Apr 12, 2020)

Looks like a smart way of doing it. I’m just not a big fan of the vent, with a pocket tunnel your going to loose something no matter what you do. Now if you speak of a true tunnel hull then you have a whole different beast, self venting as the hull planes. I’ve had these tunnels in 3 different boats and have never had any problems. We have yet to mention the cavitation plate


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## Shallow angler (Apr 12, 2020)

Here lies the answer to a lot of issues with a tunnel by keeping the wake were it belongs at the prop and intake.









I’ve found that if you keep the top of the tunnel parallel to the planing surface you will get the best performance. I’ve seen the ones such as path finders and others that have offset side and rounded tops they always seem to create such if a rooster tail wake thus spraying water up and in the boat.


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## Shallow angler (Apr 12, 2020)

Got the rubrails build and installed last night, glad to see the rain finally. 

Build the rubrails out of two offset laminate layers of 3/8 meranti glued up with thickened Epoxy. Really stiffened up the sides. 

Up early this morning for some sanding, prep for glassing the inside. I’m drinking my coffee slowwww this morning lol as I always look forward to sanding. 

Just a little trick for those of you that don’t know. When sanding fiberglass prior to starting strip down and cover up your skin with a dusting of baby powder. It will keep the fibers from getting into your skin for the most part.


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## Shallow angler (Apr 12, 2020)

Got one layer of glass in will finish up in the morning and post up pics. 

One other tip for Epoxy users that don’t know, vinegar removes Epoxy form you skin safely and quick, lol unless your allergic to it.

I always keep a jug in the shower when I building a boat. Lol so ones always there. My wife says you ain’t selling this one hence she is my flounder gigging partner.


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## BassFlats (Nov 26, 2018)

Will Massengill work too.


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## Shallow angler (Apr 12, 2020)

That’s some funny shit. I definitely wouldn’t know


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

I wonder what brand that caviation / hydrofoil is? I agree it should help hold the water around the prop and good information.


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## Shallow angler (Apr 12, 2020)

Google Shallow Blaster

They are absolutely essential for tunnels


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## DuckNut (Apr 3, 2009)

GoGataGo52__20 said:


> Also there was a plywood boat that was built back in the day called The Grass Slipper, he did a really intreasting way of venting a tunnel without a hole in the tunnel. He took PVC pipe cut it down I'm gonna show a pic, it also provided the rounded edges like you were talking about to clean up the water flow.



@Brett - would you be so kind as to share your experience with this.


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## Shallow angler (Apr 12, 2020)

DuckNut said:


> @Brett - would you be so kind as to share your experience with this.





DuckNut said:


> @Brett - would you be so kind as to share your experience with this.


Duck, I am personally not a fan of venting or should I say it has its place just not for me. A pocket tunnel is always going to be a set back in speed if that’s what your after then buy a fast hull. However in my opinion the tunnel is designed to improve and enable the shallow water running capabilities, allow you to run in shallow water for a distance not just skimming through. It was designed to replicate the normal running depth of the outboard on the hull. This is the reasoning for the need of a jack plate, it enables you to raise the engine to run in the tunnel wake. So there is always going to be a sacrifice fast hull less shallow running capabilities smother ride shallow design hull rougher ride less speed. 

Venting the pocket tunnel releases the wake being caused by the pocket, yes it creates less drag but you will have to run your motor lower to prevent excessive prop slippage (because of the dirty water), when you lower your motor you replace the drag with the lower unit so are you really gaining? Pocket tunnel hulls are designed to run shallow for distance and enables you a better hole shot, some will argue on the hole shot but is generally because the lack of understanding how the whole process works together... you must begin forward movement to start the wake, as you move forward the stern begins to lift and so on. That’s also the reason most pocket tunnels will have a Keyslot transom, weight forward less bow lift and improving hole shot I.e. everything working together


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## Shallow angler (Apr 12, 2020)

Finally got the two layers of 12 oz finished up on inside and started laminating stringers. I’ll be glad when the are in.

Two layers of 1/4 meranti laminated with thickened Epoxy 1/8 notch trowel.


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## Shallow angler (Apr 12, 2020)

Finally got the stringers tacked in and set up. 

Next up, fillet and tape three layers 12oz each side. The two outside stringer, these will mainly be stiffeners so I will cut them at 10”height and set the same way as centers.


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## Zika (Aug 6, 2015)

Coming along nicely.


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## Shallow angler (Apr 12, 2020)

Got a little more done yesterday,
Stringer taped on, two layers 12 oz









Trans frames in and taped out 1/4 meranti with 2 layers 12oz.


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## Shallow angler (Apr 12, 2020)

Next plan is to set up trailer, flip hull and finish out bottom, tape seams 3 layers 12 oz 6” tape. 2 layers 12 oz cloth and 4 coats of graphite Epoxy. Then flip and finish it out. 

Looking at motors thinking a 75 or 90.


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

Man your not wasting any time, lookin good!


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## Shallow angler (Apr 12, 2020)

Got her flipped and on trailer 

Sanded all seams and prepping to tape.


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## RB3 (Dec 23, 2017)

Shallow angler said:


> Here lies the answer to a lot of issues with a tunnel by keeping the wake were it belongs at the prop and intake.
> 
> View attachment 129126
> 
> I’ve found that if you keep the top of the tunnel parallel to the planing surface you will get the best performance. I’ve seen the ones such as path finders and others that have offset side and rounded tops they always seem to create such if a rooster tail wake thus spraying water up and in the boat.


I’ve found that the cavitation plate works best if it extends farther back behind the prop where it can capture the thrust.


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## Shallow angler (Apr 12, 2020)

Got the bottom sanded and the two layers of 12oz down on the bottom, transom and sides. It was a chore but I’m glad to see it over


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## Shallow angler (Apr 12, 2020)

After glass cured I gave it some tooth and started the micro balloon fairing first coat filling the weave. Lots of sanding and additional coats to follow. 
















I’m really not going for a mirror finish or a trophy on the bottom as this is a fishing boat and as a prototype I’ll put it through some trials. I’ll get a couple coats down sand and lay down the epoxy graphite.


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## Shallow angler (Apr 12, 2020)

Next up fair the pocket tunnel, need to build up the radius and sharpen the transom edges. I’m not to concerned with sharpening the chines forward mainly on the stern area. Will use a mixture of micro balloons and wood flour.


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## Shallow angler (Apr 12, 2020)

Got the fairing done on the bottom and tunnel. Sharpened chines, I used pvc board to dam up and laid down thickened Epoxy with shredded glass. Let it set up and it pops right off then you have a perfectly flat edge on both sides. Sure makes sanding and fairing easy.


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## Shallow angler (Apr 12, 2020)

I use a 24” knock down tool made for sheet rock and it works perfect for fairing sides and leveling up the bottom. 

Below are pictures of how the pvc board works for sharpening chines. 
















After it’s cured I’ll sand it flat sides and bottom then use a 1/4 roundover bit with a router. I don’t like the chines to sharp as it’s difficult to hold paint as well as chipping.


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## Shallow angler (Apr 12, 2020)

Bottom, sides and tunnel faired as good as I’m getting it


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## Shallow angler (Apr 12, 2020)

Final sanding and laid down 3 coats of epoxy graphite,


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## Copahee Hound (Dec 21, 2017)

When you say epoxy graphite, are you buying graphite powder/fibers/whatever, and adding it to your epoxy? Or is this some special epoxy kit? My google search didn’t give me much to go on


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## Shallow angler (Apr 12, 2020)

Copahee Hound said:


> When you say epoxy graphite, are you buying graphite powder/fibers/whatever, and adding it to your epoxy? Or is this some special epoxy kit? My google search didn’t give me much to go on


It’s graphite powder mixed in with epoxy. You mix you Epoxy as usual then add the graphite powder, do not put powder in before mixing. stir until your arm is about to fall off then I dump into a roller pan with a throw away liner. I use a short nap 9” roller 1/4-3/8. Make sure you wrap tape around new rollers to remove loose fibers. Couple of tricks to get the smoothest finish, once you get it mixed and dump into tray *do not scrape mixing container leave whats left after dumping, this will allow the heavy particles to fall to the bottom. 

A portable torch is also handy to remove any bubbles. 
Most valuable recommendation is apply it on a really hot day. 

I generally put three coats on.


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## Scott (Aug 24, 2015)

No strakes on the bottom? I fished with a guy out of Spring Hill Fl a few years who built a Bateau XF20. That thing would slide sideways like an airboat when you turned.


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## Shallow angler (Apr 12, 2020)

Scott said:


> No strakes on the bottom? I fished with a guy out of Spring Hill Fl a few years who built a Bateau XF20. That thing would slide sideways like an airboat when you turned.


Not yet, if I need them I’ll install later as this is a prototype. I’m used to the slide as I have always owned shallow sports and scooters, it’s a drawback for these hulls. I’m hoping that the suction from the tunnel and the slight dead rise will help.


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## Shallow angler (Apr 12, 2020)

Well Scott I decided what the hell might as well slap a set on before I flip her. Got to thinking about the console and all and said they may not make much of a deference but they dam sure ain’t gonna hurt  Anyway I decided to put them on this morning and if anyone wants to know if 3 coats of epoxy graphite is tuff be my guest and sand it off  Forty grit is your friend.


















I purposely made them short to keep them from disrupting the water to the tunnel. I’m Not so much concerned with tracking but more so taking a bit of slide out of her in turns. I think these will work fine.


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## Shallow angler (Apr 12, 2020)

By the way I’m looking for a good used 75-90 hp and jack plate if anyone knows of one available.


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## Scott (Aug 24, 2015)

Looks good! I think it will help a lot.


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## Scott (Aug 24, 2015)

Looks good! I think it will help a lot.


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## Scott (Aug 24, 2015)

Looks good! I think it will help a lot.


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## LAXJ (Nov 28, 2012)

Any updates??


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## Shallow angler (Apr 12, 2020)

Hey guys sorry for not posting up. We have been busy job had us relocate to main ranch... I've got alot done and the boat is basically complete.


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## Shallow angler (Apr 12, 2020)

Deck on and raised platform glasses in.


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## Shallow angler (Apr 12, 2020)

Lots of faring gone on preparation for paint. Ended up with 5 coats epoxy graphite on the bottom... 

Epoxy primer sides and deck, then going with Awlgrip seafoam...


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## Shallow angler (Apr 12, 2020)

Awlgrip role and tip. Laid down like spray.


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## Shallow angler (Apr 12, 2020)

All painted up a d rigging started. 
Used EVA deck pads in locations for walking and standing... 
Forward casting deck holes are for LED lights..


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## Shallow angler (Apr 12, 2020)

First test run on pond 























Over all I was very happy with the handling it turns on a dime and is drafting about 4-5" 
Only issue is the prop I currently have the stock 3 blade 14/19 so it has alot of slippage turning but I figured it would. At this point just mainly wanted to see how it handled. 

Top in at 5500 rpm is 42mph.


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## Shallow angler (Apr 12, 2020)

Here she is mostly rigged out. Went with Haswing trolling motor, I've used it and it seems to be a decent motor for the money.


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## Shallow angler (Apr 12, 2020)

Still have a couple of grab rails to instal as well as the windshield... still working on prop...


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## Smackdaddy53 (Dec 31, 2012)

Nice!


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## Shallow angler (Apr 12, 2020)

Thanks Smack. It's been alot of work but I think it will be worth it.


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

What kinda motor is that? Looks like an old evinrude 90 hp from the cowling. She looks great man, you gonna get her out for some gigging?


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## Shallow angler (Apr 12, 2020)

Thanks, Go... it's a 2000 Johnson 90 hp Ocean Pro... very low hours. 

Hopefully before they head out the inlet 😁... we took the kiddos to the River this weekend and it drove me nuts sitting on the bank watching all the schools of mullet getting hammered.. I finally got my papers from FWC so I'm hopefully getting it registered today. 

After that I will eventually get the combination poling/motor stand built for the 10 hp air motor. I'm also working on the removable submersible light bar for the bow.. so it's in progress but might have to catch them next season...


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## GoGataGo52__20 (Jun 26, 2016)

Nice man, sounds like a nice setup.  I’ve not gigged in a long time but it’s a good time


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## Big_lj (7 mo ago)

Shallow angler said:


> Here she is mostly rigged out. Went with Haswing trolling motor, I've used it and it seems to be a decent motor for the money.
> View attachment 156617
> View attachment 156618
> View attachment 156619
> View attachment 156616





Shallow angler said:


> Here she is mostly rigged out. Went with Haswing trolling motor, I've used it and it seems to be a decent motor for the money.
> View attachment 156617
> View attachment 156618
> View attachment 156619
> View attachment 156616


sweet build!


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